OK, so I made my own home made inlet outlet,

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Framing%20Stages/IMG_0319.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Framing%20Stages/IMG_0320.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Framing%20Stages/IMG_0323.jpg

and for a short while now I have simply been using a regular orange extension cord and life was grand, everything was working. Well it is time to try and button a few things up, so i was to get rid of the extension cord and replace it with the permanent solution. My question however is if my solution is OK.

So, the power cord for my projector is essentially the exact same thing as any computer power cord. Therefore, can I just cut the end off one of the computer power cords I have laying around and attach this $5 solution to then plug onto my inlet and in turn, power my projector?
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/projector/IMG_1520.jpg

I would assume all amperage and all that stuff is the same and because it already uses the computer style cord, that changing the end/plug on it would not really change anything else. Or, do I need to buy a 16GA/13AMP extension cord and put this end on to it? This would mean I buy another extension cord just like the one I have been using already, cut it to length and then add my above mention plug end to it.

Just want to do it right...I have the computer power cords but would have to buy the extension cord, but if they will both function the same, there is no need to buy a new extension cord...

Are you saying you have this mounted up on the ceiling by your projector?

Are you asking about making a modified cord and plugging it with one end into the projector and the other end into this wall plug inlet box you just made?

The way i read your post, it doesn't sound like you are using this inlet correctly.

-Suntan

You can't have a live power inlet. You want a recessed outlet and just a regular computer cord of the correct length. If you go the power inlet route the best way to tell if it is wired correctly is to wet your fingers and stick in touching the extended prongs.

The way i read your post, it doesn't sound like you are using this inlet correctly.

Same here, I don't think that came out quite how he intended it to...

Smakovits, I just skimmed your thread and saw that you did build a DIY Powerbridge (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978306&page=2), so what you are looking at doing should work just fine. Suntan suggested just what you are doing in post #32 of that thread.

Cheers

OK, maybe I did not explain myself the best...
I have this by my equipment:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Framing%20Stages/IMG_0323.jpg
and I have this by the projector:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Painting/IMG_1037.jpg

I want to take a computer power cord, cut the end that goes to the computer and add this:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/projector/IMG_1520.jpg

so I can then plug onto this:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Basement%20Construction/Framing%20Stages/IMG_0323.jpg

so I can get power to this:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Projector/IMG_1086.jpg

I hope that makes sense and clarifies things...

If that big yellow thing fits in the inlet you will be just fine as long as you keep the polarity and grounding intact and that you wired the inlet up correctly.

White wire is neutral and goes to the wider of the two blades. Black is live.

Yes, that will work just fine. As suggested, make sure to keep the polarity correct when you re-wire.

Also, you can get one of these pretty cheap...


http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022802&p_id=5297&seq=1&format=2

-Suntan

Ok, I may get blasted for chiming in, but let me throw something at you that I don't think has been considered.

The extension cord that you are planning on making that will provide power to your male inlet will be plugged into what...?....(maybe a UPS?). You have to take into consideration the over current protection you have up stream from the cord you plan to assemble. The over current protection must be appropriate for the downstream wiring. Not the device (projector in this case), but all the wiring up to and including the recepticle.

I know you have a 15amp recepticle, and I think it safe to assume there is a 15 amp breaker protecting the circuit you intend on using. Unfortunately, you have a piece of 16awg wire (computer cord) in between the two devices, and that is a code violation. I'm sure this will be argued but there's nothing stopping anyone from plugging in a 15amp load into that ceiling outlet. All upstream wiring needs to be rated for that 15amp load, if that wiring is protected by a 15amp over current device (breaker/fuse).

If you are using a UPS and it has it own over current protection that can be adjusted to not exceed the 16awg wire's limit. You're good to go... If you don't care...you're good to go.

I just thought I'd mention it.

so ultimately saying to make my patch cord out of 12/2 Romex to batch everything else

Romex no... 14/3 cabtire (extension cord), yes.

14awg is good for 15amp.

This covers your ass as best as you can.

PS: I guess it should be said that there are 14awg computer power cables that you can convert for you purposes. Whether or not it's something you want to buy and change, other than standard cord ends and wire from say Home Depot, is up to you.

http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=1022&sku=03131

I'm not an electrician nor have I installed in inlet before but I have a question regarding smokinghot's suggestion to use 14/3 cabtire wire from the UPS to the inlet to ensure that it can carry the full 15amp load. Power goes from the wall to the UPS/conditioner to the inlet to the ceiling receptacle to the projector correct? If so, is the power cord for the UPS/conditioner adequately sized to handle a full 15 amp load? If it's just a standard extension cord sort of cable, then why would a larger one be needed from the UPS to the inlet? I'm just curious. Not trying to get into electrical codes and theory here.

If it's just a standard extension cord sort of cable, then why would a larger one be needed from the UPS to the inlet? I'm just curious. Not trying to get into electrical codes and theory here.

Hmm... how to explain a code/theory question without siting code or theory... I love a challenge!:confused:

Long story short, properly sizing the interconnect reduces the chances it will overheat and eventually start on fire in an overload condition.

Does that work for you? I can get more in depth if you want but probably not without dragging the thread directly into a what will become a 3 page thread hijacking, NEC discussion.:D

rob

advertguy2,

I think the thickness of the line conditioner (or UPS) power cord is dependent on the manufacturer. I have an APC H15, and I can tell you it is a very heavy duty power cord, at least 14 AWG. That being said, it is also the same connector type as a PC, so you could replace with thicker AWG if you wanted to easily enough.



Long story short, properly sizing the interconnect reduces the chances it will overheat and eventually start on fire in an overload condition.

There you go, nice and simple.

If you're not looking to DIY a PC power cord as mentioned above, or you really want a 14 AWG extension, I found these nice and cheap, only a couple bucks more than the yellow end in the pictures from smakovits:

14 AWG 6 ft Extension Cord (http://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/extension-cord/10w2-02106.htm)

I have 3 of them, work great. I'm sure you could find something similar locally and not have to pay for shipping, but sometimes just clicking "Buy" on a webpage is easier for me. :)

Well, i ended up with this,
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Misc/IMG_1523.jpg

16AWG. I may upgrade to 14AWG at some point, but for now this is plenty. as far as amperage, I dont plan to plug anything else into the ceiling outlet but the projector, so I should be safe. If I ever move, I will remove the cord anyway and leave it up to the next owner to figure it out... since the projector cord is only 18AWG, I think we are good to go for now. Should have no issue of overheating or nothing. I mean the cord I used till now was just 16 AWG so... But yeah, I think we can lay this one to rest, I hope. thanks all for the input... AVS rules!

advertguy2,

The part that your missing is that smakovits never said anything about using a UPS. That's the difference maker. If the cord he is using simply connects a existing recepticle to the power bridge he constructed he should (in a perfect world) maintain the 14awg wiring downstream from the overcurrent device to the 15amp recepticle in his ceiling.


I may upgrade to 14AWG at some point, but for now this is plenty. as far as amperage, I dont plan to plug anything else into the ceiling outlet but the projector, so I should be safe. If I ever move, I will remove the cord anyway and leave it up to the next owner to figure it out... since the projector cord is only 18AWG, I think we are good to go for now. Should have no issue of overheating or nothing. I mean the cord I used till now was just 16 AWG so... But yeah, I think we can lay this one to rest, I hope. thanks all for the input... AVS rules!

I wouldn't give it a second thought either smakovits. Simply removing you constructed cord will put everything within code. So your thought of yanking it out if and when you move is the right train of thought.

I wouldn't give it a second thought either smakovits. Simply removing you constructed cord will put everything within code. So your thought of yanking it out if and when you move is the right train of thought.

I wonder if the guy that moves in some time way down the road, I assume 20 some years if all goes well, if they would know how to get power to the ceiling outlet... I mean really, I am sure he would be mystified at least at first when trying to figure out why there is a outlet on the ceiling with no power...

You could be kind and just label the two ends of your power bridge... :)

Hell... you could even just label it with the url for this thread...lol :D:D:D