When setting my sub's decibel level, does it matter if the "bass boost" on the receiver is set to on or off? I think it's supposed to help out the bass at low volume levels. It's only used for HT, if that matters. Thanks.

When setting my sub's decibel level, does it matter if the "bass boost" on the receiver is set to on or off? I think it's supposed to help out the bass at low volume levels. It's only used for HT, if that matters. Thanks.What receiver? Do you mean manually calibrating with an SPL meter?

I would think that it "matters". How much it matters when calibrating at 75dB (or 85dB) is an unknown. You could somewhat assess that by measuring, though. I think most people here would say to calibrate with it off. Then the bass boost will be exactly what it is supposed to be; a bass boost over the calibrated level.

What receiver? Do you mean manually calibrating with an SPL meter?

I would think that it "matters". How much it matters when calibrating at 75dB (or 85dB) is an unknown. You could somewhat assess that by measuring, though. I think most people here would say to calibrate with it off. Then the bass boost will be exactly what it is supposed to be; a bass boost over the calibrated level.

Yes, I mean calibrating with a SPL meter. I have the JVC RX-7030 receiver. Is a good starting point to set the sub's decibel level the same as the other speakers? Thanks.

I have the JVC RX-7030 receiver. Is a good starting point to set the sub's decibel level the same as the other speakers?What are you using to calibrate? The receiver's built-in tones?

What are you using to calibrate? The receiver's built-in tones?

I'm using the Sound and Vision calibration disc, it's made by Ovation(the makers of Avia). No one else has an opinion?

Do you leave the bass boost on all the time or just use it every now and then? If the former, I suggest you leave it on during calibration. If the latter, I'd say turn it off.

I normally leave it on, but I don't know if that's right or wrong. I just thought there might be a preferred way to do it. I want to re-check my sub's decibel level(because I think it might be set too high) so maybe this time I'll do my settings with bass boost off.

Calibration is ALWAYS done with all EQ and processing off.

If you cal with bass boost on, you are calibrating the "boost" setting to normal. When you turn off boost, you will get a cut.

Everyone has to calibrate the same way or it is not calibration. If you were using the AVR's tones, it would turn off all EQ adjustments for you when you enter cal mode.

Do you leave the bass boost on all the time or just use it every now and then? If the former, I suggest you leave it on during calibration. If the latter, I'd say turn it off.As Harrypt says, if he calibrates with it on, it won't be a "boost" any longer. He'll simply turn that switch into a "bass squasher".

According to the specs on the receiver the boost is +6dB at 100Hz. Doesn't mention the bandwidth.

If you are going to the trouble, JimMc, to do a real calibration, then you shouldn't really need to use the bass boost. Granted, you can do whatever you wish, and it IS possible that your room's FR might have a dip near 100Hz that the bass boost can help to alleviate. But most people here in these forums would shun the use of a bass boost button.

Calibration is ALWAYS done with all EQ and processing off.

If you cal with bass boost on, you are calibrating the "boost" setting to normal. When you turn off boost, you will get a cut.

Everyone has to calibrate the same way or it is not calibration. If you were using the AVR's tones, it would turn off all EQ adjustments for you when you enter cal mode.

So as long as I leave the bass boost setting the same as when I calibrated the sub and speakers, I'll be fine. That I understand. I just wanted to know if I should leave the bass boost setting on or off. My receiver's test tones don't include the sub. Thanks.

I think you got it wrong. If you set your relative levels with bass boost turned on, then you will theoretically be flat with bass boost turned on. When you turn down, bass boost will not be boosting your bass, you'll be flat. And if you turn bass boost off at louder levels, you'll actually be cutting the bass.

Calibrate with the boost off, using appropriate correction for your meter for the relative frequencies involved, if necessary. Then if you use bass boost at lower volumes, it will actually boost the base above its "normal" level to account for how our hearing works. Your meter is not subject to the equal loudness contours (except to the extent they are buitl into the weighting schemes). Even though I can't hear a 20 hz tone at 55 dB in my room, my meter can.

I think you got it wrong. If you set your relative levels with bass boost turned on, then you will theoretically be flat with bass boost turned on. When you turn down, bass boost will not be boosting your bass, you'll be flat. And if you turn bass boost off at louder levels, you'll actually be cutting the bass.

Calibrate with the boost off, using appropriate correction for your meter for the relative frequencies involved, if necessary. Then if you use bass boost at lower volumes, it will actually boost the base above its "normal" level to account for how our hearing works. Your meter is not subject to the equal loudness contours (except to the extent they are buitl into the weighting schemes). Even though I can't hear a 20 hz tone at 55 dB in my room, my meter can.
You are correct, but you are answering a $50 question with a $1000 answer.

Thanks you guys. I finally got my question answered. I will calibrate with boost off.

He should calibrate with bass boost off. Obviously. Unless, of course, he plans to have it on all of the time. Then, the "proper" calibration technique would be improper because he wouldn't be calibrating for the actual listening conditions.

As a point of curiosity, Harrypt, you aren't saying analog calibration should be done without boosting the sub by the necessary 10-15db, are you?

He should calibrate with bass boost off. Obviously. Unless, of course, he plans to have it on all of the time. Then, the "proper" calibration technique would be improper because he wouldn't be calibrating for the actual listening conditions.

As a point of curiosity, Harrypt, you aren't saying analog calibration should be done without boosting the sub by the necessary 10-15db, are you?

What do you mean by "analog calibration?"

What do you mean by "analog calibration?"That refers to calibrating a system when the player is doing the digital-analog conversion and sending multichannel audio to the receiver over six to eight separate analog audio cables, one for each channel. Output levels will not necessirly be the same as they are with digital processed by the receiver.

As a point of curiosity, Harrypt, you aren't saying analog calibration should be done without boosting the sub by the necessary 10-15db, are you?

I don't know of any "necessary" 10-15db boost for the sub. You might enjoy a boost to the sub and that's fine for you, but that would not be proper calibration or proper frequency response.

If you are talking about the LFE channel, that boost is inherent in the recording/playback specification. Calibration should still be done flat, then your decoder will boost the LFE channel automatically.

I don't know of any "necessary" 10-15db boost for the sub. You might enjoy a boost to the sub and that's fine for you, but that would not be proper calibration or proper frequency response.

If you are talking about the LFE channel, that boost is inherent in the recording/playback specification. Calibration should still be done flat, then your decoder will boost the LFE channel automatically.
I gather you don't use analog. You certainly are not familiar with how it works. I suggest reading the excellent LFE sticky at the top of this forum. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 It is sort of required reading for anyone offering advice about calibration. :)

Here's the short version: LFE is recorded -10db. It must be boosted by the processor or at the sub itself for proper playback. With digital, the software in the processor handles the boost. With analog, most processors leave the boost up to the user. It still needs to happen. It just doesn't happen on its own. If the player is doing bass management, the sub channel (LFE + redirected bass) is dropped another 5db, meaning the user needs to boost the sub by 15db. (btw, decoders do not boost LFE. That happens later and is not related to the decoding process.)

You should not calibrate "flat", as you call it, in this regard. In fact, with many receivers and subs, you won't even be able to get the sub output up to the needed 75 or 85db that way. You need to apply the boost and then calibrate. That mirrors what happens with digital where you calibrate after the software has boosted the sub up to the proper playback level. Then you do level trims.

Why is multichannel analog calibration even relevant? The OP's bass boost applies a 6dB boost at 100Hz. The "boost" to the subwoofer channel required with a multichannel analog connection is an across the board "boost". But it is not at all a "boost" in the same sense as the OP's bass boost, which is simply a loudness button. Of course you calibrate after you apply the "boost" to the subwoofer channel that is necessary with a multichannel analog connection.

Why is multichannel analog calibration even relevant? The OP's bass boost applies a 6dB boost at 100Hz. The "boost" to the subwoofer channel required with a multichannel analog connection is an across the board "boost". But it is not at all a "boost" in the same sense as the OP's bass boost, which is simply a loudness button. Of course you calibrate after you apply the "boost" to the subwoofer channel that is necessary with a multichannel analog connection.This is a side conversation to the OP's original question, which was already answered to his satisfaction.

This is a side conversation to the OP's original question, which was already answered to his satisfaction.OIC :p ;)