My NEC HT1000 keeps shutting off.
There is a flashing light error code on the panel when it shuts off and it was flashing six times. The manual says that's the bulb.
I replaced the bulb with a brand new one and it is still doing the exact same thing. Some times is shuts off within a few minutes. Sometimes it stays on longer.
I can tell when it's going to shut off because the screen brightness goes bright than slightly dimmer, then bright and then slightly dimmer and after several times, it shuts off.
This is both on DVI and S-video connectors.

reseat the bulb several times to clean the contacts, make sure the bulb door is tight and that the plastic trigger release piece on the inside is not broken or making contact like it should.

OK. Will do said recommendations.
Is this for all projectors in general, or is it a known issue with HT1000s?

Was this ever resolved?

I have a NEC LT240 and ran into this issue, exactly as described. I believe all the LT240, LT260, LT240K, LT260K, HT1000 are based off the same internals.

Used it for 2000 hours no problem then my bulb burnt out. I replaced the blub with a factory sealed blub. It worked fine for a while then I noticed the brightness getting extra bright and it shutting off sometimes. It would display the bulb error (6 red blinks). Normally I would just shut it off and start it back up and it worked. I turned on the high speed fan mode & kept it off eco mode to help with the extra brightness/heat and that seemed to help.

Its been about 2 months and I got to a point where the blub wont even fire. I pulled it out and nothing looks broken in the blub. I have tried reseating everything, cleaning dust out, checking fans, nothing helps. I am thinking ballast or power supply?

Yes, I would like to know as well if this was resolved.
I am having the EXACT same issues and changed my bulb in the spring but for the last 4 months it is shutting off again.

What did you end up doing?

Thanks

Yes, I would like to know as well if this was resolved.
I am having the EXACT same issues and changed my bulb in the spring but for the last 4 months it is shutting off again.

What did you end up doing?

Thanks

When it shuts down does it do the same shutdown process as if you had hit the off button or does it just go off straight away?

this must be a contagious problem.
my ht1000 has the same bug.
it will shut down as if i turned it off with a remote.
i had it shut down as many as five times before it stayed on for at least 2-3 hours.

I had shutdown problems that coincided with loud subwoofer moments. It turned out to be the solder joints on the main board being adversly effected by heat over time. NEC service center remade the solder joints on the board and I never had another shutdown. It was an intriguing problem for a while. The shutdown was the same as if I was turning it off with the remote. So maybe all these shutdowns are due to the same thing, just the breakdown of some solder joints from heat over the years.

same thing happened to my ht1100. Sent to NEC-color wheel motor gone-$325 to fix. Unfortunately theyve had it for 3 weeks waiting for parts from japan. They didn't say why this would cause lamp not to fire.

I had shutdown problems that coincided with loud subwoofer moments. It turned out to be the solder joints on the main board being adversly effected by heat over time. NEC service center remade the solder joints on the board and I never had another shutdown. It was an intriguing problem for a while. The shutdown was the same as if I was turning it off with the remote. So maybe all these shutdowns are due to the same thing, just the breakdown of some solder joints from heat over the years.

I don't think this is the same problem that is discussed here and is happening to several of us... my unit barely get warm before shutting off the first time. Vibration or heat do not seem to make a difference since after 3-5 occurances the problem goes away and the project will stay on for hours and hours.

When it shuts down does it do the same shutdown process as if you had hit the off button or does it just go off straight away?

It goes through the shutdown process. Have to wait for the fan to stop and then I can refire and keep my fingers crossed....

Looking at the Epston 8100 or Mits 3800 right now as a replacement.

same thing happened to my ht1100. Sent to NEC-color wheel motor gone-$325 to fix. Unfortunately theyve had it for 3 weeks waiting for parts from japan. They didn't say why this would cause lamp not to fire.

Glad this thread resurfaced. I am still having the issue. I pulled the device apart, started it up & can see the color wheel spinning, so its not the color wheel motor... unless its not spinning fast enough? Before you sent it to NEC did you hear any noise when trying to power on the unit? beside the fans... it almost sounds like a hard drive spinning up.

I had shutdown problems that coincided with loud subwoofer moments. It turned out to be the solder joints on the main board being adversly effected by heat over time. NEC service center remade the solder joints on the board and I never had another shutdown. It was an intriguing problem for a while. The shutdown was the same as if I was turning it off with the remote. So maybe all these shutdowns are due to the same thing, just the breakdown of some solder joints from heat over the years.

That is what I keep reading about, not the bass but bad joints because of heat. I pulled all the boards out. Did you know which board NEC repaired? there is one with a mini board sticking off it (I assume this is lamp power). Solder joints *looked* good. I tried a circuit tester on all the joints and they seemed to be good.

Hi, my ht1000 is doing the same thing, The bulb has 2000 hours on it, but I wouldn't think that would be causing it to shut off like the way you describe. I have tried re-seating it and that doesn't work, so i would to like a fix for this??

I took mine apart, it is something loose, it is somewhere inside of the lamp connector on the projector, I will update once I have fixed it.

so i blew into the connector an drefastened it tightly and it seems to be working fine so far, but that might change, so check your wires and connector and make sure there clean. very very clean.

so I know the lamps connector is bad, but I can't seem to fix it. NEC told me its $30 for the part and whatever labor ends up costing for an hour of service at a repair center.

well after much testing, I have rounded it down to either the wire that goes to the lamp or the connector on the lamps power board, at this point I think I need to send it in to get it fixed.

My NEC HT1000 is doing he same thing too. It kept shutting down even though I put multiple new bulbs in so I finally gave up and bought a Mitsubishi HC3800 last month (the picture is fantastic although I'm still set up to view 1080p through my component cables via the HD Fury instead of HDMI - NEC DVI design flaw). However, I would still like to get my NEC up and running again if someone can come up with the smoking gun on this problem.

I had similar problems as many of you and fixed it myself. Here's a list of the symptoms and what I did to fix it...

My projector often wouldn't start. I'd get the same flashing red light (6 of them) as the projector would stop firing. When it first started happening, I'd unplug the unit and wait for all the capacitors to empty and the lights to go off. Then I plugged it back in and tried to start it again. Sometimes this took three or four tries. Eventually, even that wouldn't work and it wouldn't start at all. The manual says that six consecutive flashing reds means it's a lamp problem. It wasn't. My lamp was fine.

I took the projector apart and blew it out with air and then cleaned the color wheel and the color wheel sensor with isopropyl. When I put it back together again, everything fired up just fine.

The color wheel is right next to the lens assembly. When you open the cover - a pain in and of itself - the color wheel is covered with a flimsy piece of molded shiny black plastic. One screw holds that piece in place. Remove the screw and the piece of plastic being very careful of the thin wires nearbye. The color wheel sits below. Screwed to the top of the color wheel is a small circuit board held in place by two screws. It's easy to identify with a two-wire connector plugged in at the top. Unplug the connector and remove the two screws. The circuit board will lift off. On the other side (down side) of the circuit board is the sensor - a small black section (you can't miss it.) It sits right next to the color wheel spindle and senses movement. Clean that sensor with a qtip dipped in alcohol.

I also removed two additional screws on that seated the color wheel itself and lifted the assembly out. It's in one piece so nothing is going to fall apart. But as you lift it out, be very careful not to crack any of the six tiny mirrored glass pieces. Lift it straight up and you should be fine. I cleaned the glass surfaces of the color wheel and then blew out the projector with a can of air.

That was it. I reassembled everything and it fired right up.

I think the sensors get dirty over time. When you take it to a NEC Certified whatever they are, they try another lamp. When that doesn't work, their more advanced manual tells them it's the color wheel. They order a new one from Japan. When it arrives three weeks later, they put it in and charge you 500 bones. I don't think their manual tells them anything about cleaning a sensor.

Hope someone finds this useful.

Ricky2m,

I had the same problem tonight with my red light flashing 6 times. I followed your input and my projector IS BACK.... Thanks for the info...........:):):)

With my curiosity once I first opened everything up I thought I would clean the color wheel, after that I tried to fire it up and the same problem. But cleaning the color wheel sensor, which I never did, might be the key. When the unit goes through its start cycle, I can see the wheel try to spin up then stop 3 times. Maybe the dirty sensor doesn't see the wheel spinning and sends the projector to error mode.

Tonight I will try to clean the sensor as well as blow out any connectors. Thanks for your input! I will post back here with results. Need to figure something out soon! I have been putting movies off to watch them on the big screen!

Just an update:

I tried pulling the color wheel sensor out and cleaning it. Still no dice, same error.

Once I got it all apart I remember seeing that little black sensor on the board & cleaning it the first time. Oh well, this one might be a total loss.

Found out what the issue was!!!

I got a used running projector with bulb for cheap. Thought I would test out the parts from my original. My old bulb fired up in the new projector but....... after a minute or so it powered itself off (This was an issue I noticed before my old projector died).

So bulb error might have been somewhat correct, but that still doesn't explain why it wouldn't even fire in the old projector. I put the known good bulb from the new projector into my old, still wouldn't fire. Pulled everything apart & swapped the bulb power supply board (the small one in the corner). After this my original projector worked great!

I had a gut feeling it was the ballast/bulb power board. Its interesting that the old bulb still had symptoms of shutting off with a good ballast, I wonder if the bulb fried the ballast or vice versa. Either way it was more economical to purchase a used projector for testing then spend a few hundred on a bulb power supply.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I've got the exact same problem and tried Ricky2M's solution but had no luck. (thanks for the detailed instructions, btw) Has anyone else tried other solutions with any kind of finality?