I finally have the marquee 8500 mounted on the ceiling and need to adjust the green lense,in order to have even focus across the screen. It has the hd-145 lenses with adjustable plate. Is there a special way of doing this ? This is my second crt and I'm short of lost here. The red and blue are very sharp across the whole screen but not the green.

Hello

Note the aluminum plates that the lenses are mounted to. There are three large allen bolts holding that plate to another plate that the tube face is mounted to. There are springs in between. You need a long allen driver to turn the bolts and tip the tube face relative to the back of the lens, this gives top/bottom and side/side focus correction. The tubes are clamped by four 7/16" hex bolts, those need to be loosened some to allow movement. Try to find an 8500 manual to download off the web.


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I have had 3-4 projectors and I still dont get how to set scheimpflug!!

I always mess it up and end finding something to regap it.

If anyone has some tips please share them.

When moving the 3 allen bolts, are you moving the lense or just the whole tube face is moved ?

When moving the 3 allen bolts, are you moving the lense or just the whole tube face is moved ?

Hello

The entire tube is pivoting, the lens does not move.

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There are only 2 bolts you should be adjusting if I recall correctly! The third one you dont touch. READ THE MANUAL! It's all right there.

Is this in the service or the user manual ?

There are only 2 bolts you should be adjusting if I recall correctly! The third one you dont touch. READ THE MANUAL! It's all right there. Chris the guy who had this before mucked around with it and claimed he could "never got a sharp pic". IT's possible the he messed up the default 3rd screw which sets the distance of the lens from the tube.
Scheimphlug is pretty easy on a marque with stock lenses but a little more difficult with HD-145's, The really weird thing on this one is Shar got the R +B dialed in but can't get the green. The green is usually the easiest one unless PJ is off center to the screen.

When I had my 144's, both red and green dialed in easy without touching the 3rd factory set bolt. The blue if memory serves required about a quarter turn in on the factory set bolt to get the desired results. Not sure about the 145, but the 144 needed the center adjusting knob very tight to the tube end of its adjustment.

I also use binoculars, magnified reading glasses, and a 31k grid. I look to make the largest clearest scan lines, and skinniest grid lines to get my scheimpflug nailed.

I ran 1080p @72 with very good results.

Jim

Jim.... when you first defocus the lense, does it matter which direction you turn the len,clockwise, counterclockwise ? And how far did you defocus the grid, what part should I be looking at ? Is it diffical to remove the lense and the plate and the mounting bracket and try to set it back to factory settings ?

Not sure about the 145, but the 144 needed the center adjusting knob very tight to the tube end of its adjustment.
it's the same with 145's

Jim.... when you first defocus the lense, does it matter which direction you turn the len,clockwise, counterclockwise ? yes, one direction will make the line "bloom" much more than the other. you want to defocus in the cirection that scatters the least


And how far did you defocus the grid, what part should I be looking at ? you de-focus very little. If you defocus too much it's hard to see line thickness. Basically one bolt controls focus up/down. when adjusting that bolt you should only be looking at the screen center sections upper and lower halfs. turn the bolt until grid lines are equal thickness top+bottm.
The other bolt, usually capped on the green tube, controls left-right focus. for this you will be looking at the left/right sides and ignoring the top/bottm.
the PJS' on-screen HELP guided mechanical set-up will tell you which bolt does what but it's for a table mounted PJ. Reverse the instructions for a ceiling mounted PJ.
If you do all this and the PG is really centered and square to the screen and green is out of focus in one zone only then check the EM focus zones for that tube in the Service menu.

shar,

I'm assuming the grid on the tube face looks good.

not sure if this will help, but I just measured 11/16" Gap (tight) at the factory adjusted bolt on my green tube with the 144s. I am not using these now but have not touched them.
(Hopefully someone with 145 could measure their gap)

I know this is not the norm, but if i'm having problems sometimes I will turn down the contrast around 30 or so and with binoculars try dialing it in, all the time looking for nice crisp scan lines. I hit the standby often or will cycle thru the tubes and work on one after the other.

Jim

Are those measurement ,are they taken from the face of the tube to the outside of the aluminium plate ? Also what is the differences between a scan line and a grid line ?

OK , forget about the last question.....I got it.

OK I got the green lense half ass done, only out just in lower right corner. Now the red lense in perfect across the screen, but when I use focus in the center, the grid lines moves about 1/2 " up or down. Do I need to go into the unit and move the 6 pole magnets like I had to do with the old Nec 6200 ?

You could do that or just do a new convergence, but it will drift over time. Getting the grid not to move during a full focus ramping is a little time consuming but necessary if you dont want to keep converging every few weeks.

Athanasios

I have read the user manual but not see any thing about having adjustment to the magnets. Is there a procesure at one must follow to get dead on ? Do I have to zero any thing first ?

the CPC magents should be dialed in pretty close but after shipping halfway across the US and then to Canada they could have moved. the procedure is here

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip9.htm

the CPC magents should be dialed in pretty close but after shipping halfway across the US and then to Canada they could have moved. the procedure is here

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip9.htm

Hello

One forgets that terrestrial magnetism varies all over the continent. Dial the magnetics perfectly, then drive the projector a few hours away and you will likely need them redone.

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Channel # 1 is set for 1080i,I'm feeding hdmi into a moone card and using hd satelite out. When I display a cross hatch pattern, the horizontal lines are straight for 3/4 of the screen from the left side but at the last 1/4 they bow upward. Is this because the astig is out ?
One other question on "initialize the projector ", will I lose all the channel setting and the memories that are there now ?

Channel # 1 is set for 1080i,I'm feeding hdmi into a moone card and using hd satelite out. When I display a cross hatch pattern, the horizontal lines are straight for 3/4 of the screen from the left side but at the last 1/4 they bow upward. Is this because the astig is out ?
One other question on "initialize the projector ", will I lose all the channel setting and the memories that are there now ?

Thats not the astig, that sounds like an improper geometry set up. you need to use convergence and the other geometry controls to get a straight grid across the entire tube face/Screen.

You will loose all channels and memory if you initialize, but i would do it. Some times this corrects set up issues you may be having(like the bowed lines). if the PJ has lots of adjustments in one memory , over time it screws with a new set up on the same memory, so an initialization usually clears this up.

Athanasios

So how would I set up the channels and the memory for the inputs,after I do a initialize. The manual is not that helpful and I just not that sure about this type of Pj, had Nec 6200 before.
When you are starting all over again, which channel do you start with to do inistiall set up on [geometry ] ?