Hi, I'm going to buy one of the Calman packages (Home edition) for calibrating 1 projector, 1 TV and 2 monitors and I have a few questions:

1. On curtpalme.com it says: The EyeOne Display 2 is not recommended for front projector calibration as it does not include a tripod mount and the diffuser is not great for illuminant measurement (directly at the lens on front projectors). The EyeOne Pro, the Chroma 5 and the CalMAN Enhanced Spyder 3 are better choices for front projector calibration.

This device was looking like the best option for me because it is the only cheap option that includes monitor calibration - the enhanced Spyder 3 doesn't include the original software. So I was hoping to use Calman for the TV + projector and the D2 software for the monitors. However I'm worried about the above suggestion because I don't want duff settings for my projector (Mitsubishi HC6000). Am I right in thinking that if I remove the diffuser and take readings from the screen, it will perform adequately? I'm a novice user and only have experience in doing the same thing with a Spyder 3 + HCFR and I wasn't getting great results so I was hoping Calman could see me through it more efficiently and take some of the trial and error out of it. The Spyder 3 was on loan from a friend so I can't use that now. I'm not sure why you would use the device to take readings from the lens when the screen might change the gain (I have a High Power screen).

2. Could I just use sticky velcro to attach the D2 to a tripod? I saw a link to a method of attaching it but the link is dead now so I'm not sure how to do it.

3. Will the calman and iMatch software run in Win 7/Vista 64bit?

4. A problem I had with the Spyder 3 calibration was that when I played certain games (mainly Steam games such as Team Fortress 2/Counter Strike etc.) they would completely ignore the profile and revert back to default settings, which looked awful. Has anyone tried playing games on their D2-calibrated PC?

Hi, I'm going to buy one of the Calman packages (Home edition) for calibrating 1 projector, 1 TV and 2 monitors and I have a few questions:

1. On curtpalme.com it says: The EyeOne Display 2 is not recommended for front projector calibration as it does not include a tripod mount and the diffuser is not great for illuminant measurement (directly at the lens on front projectors). The EyeOne Pro, the Chroma 5 and the CalMAN Enhanced Spyder 3 are better choices for front projector calibration.

This device was looking like the best option for me because it is the only cheap option that includes monitor calibration - the enhanced Spyder 3 doesn't include the original software. So I was hoping to use Calman for the TV + projector and the D2 software for the monitors. However I'm worried about the above suggestion because I don't want duff settings for my projector (Mitsubishi HC6000). Am I right in thinking that if I remove the diffuser and take readings from the screen, it will perform adequately? I'm a novice user and only have experience in doing the same thing with a Spyder 3 + HCFR and I wasn't getting great results so I was hoping Calman could see me through it more efficiently and take some of the trial and error out of it. The Spyder 3 was on loan from a friend so I can't use that now. I'm not sure why you would use the device to take readings from the lens when the screen might change the gain (I have a High Power screen).

2. Could I just use sticky velcro to attach the D2 to a tripod? I saw a link to a method of attaching it but the link is dead now so I'm not sure how to do it.

3. Will the calman and iMatch software run in Win 7/Vista 64bit?

4. A problem I had with the Spyder 3 calibration was that when I played certain games (mainly Steam games such as Team Fortress 2/Counter Strike etc.) they would completely ignore the profile and revert back to default settings, which looked awful. Has anyone tried playing games on their D2-calibrated PC?

Not sure how much help I can be, but I use the EyeOne LT (same probe just no software) to calibrate my front projector (Epson 6500ub) and it works fine. One thing you need to check is to see if your projector has a full color management system, because if not, you may not be able to do much of a calibration. According to this link, your projector is not listed as having a full CMS. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536

1. D2 is fine for projectors
2. Yes.
3. Don't know Calman runs fine in vista 32 pretty sre they have 64bit compatability

4. This is normal , many games and apps mess with the graphics LUT. Its probably just reset it : you may be able to drop back to windows and put the corect LUT back on after the game has loaded.

4. A problem I had with the Spyder 3 calibration was that when I played certain games (mainly Steam games such as Team Fortress 2/Counter Strike etc.) they would completely ignore the profile and revert back to default settings, which looked awful. Has anyone tried playing games on their D2-calibrated PC?

Calibration and profiling are two different operations.
As I know there are no PC games supporting CMS and profiles.
As for calibration... All computer professional displays (NEC SpectraView and 90 series, EIZO ColorEdge series, LaCie, QuatoGraphic Quato etc.) and some SOHO displays are hardware (monitor LUTs - not graphic VideoLUTs) calibrated. Since the display is hardware calibrated the calibration will always remain valid even though you move the display to another machine.

Thanks for the replies.

Kmd you suggest displays without CMS pose a problem when calibrating. Do you mean it's not possible to get a reasonable calibration with standard TV/Projector controls? At the moment I can notice some glaring problems with my displays and am hoping Calman and the D2 can take me through the normal calibration process with the end result of a decent looking picture. Will the lack of CMS make that impossible?

Mr.D good idea, I'll try alt-tabbing next time. Some games were fine and didn't mess with the profiles but others must've loaded the default or something.

Thanks for the replies.

Kmd you suggest displays without CMS pose a problem when calibrating. Do you mean it's not possible to get a reasonable calibration with standard TV/Projector controls? At the moment I can notice some glaring problems with my displays and am hoping Calman and the D2 can take me through the normal calibration process with the end result of a decent looking picture. Will the lack of CMS make that impossible?

Mr.D good idea, I'll try alt-tabbing next time. Some games were fine and didn't mess with the profiles but others must've loaded the default or something.

I'm not the one to explain this properly, so maybe someone more experience will chime in. What I have read is that with brightness and contrast you can probably get them set well, maybe gray scale depending on what Red, Green, and Blue controls you have (mine are called offsets and gains for each of the 3 colors). As far as setting your primaries (RGB) and secondaries (Cyan, Yellow and Magenta) you need controls for 3 elements of the 6 colors (mine are called Hue, Saturation and Brightness).

On an earlier model of the Epson projector there were folks that were trying to calibrate their system with only 2 of the color controls (Hue, and Saturation, no Brightness) and they were having a difficult time getting the colors correct. I beleive they had the 6 controls to set their gray scale, which is also very important. Also, I'm not sure if individual gamma contols are considered part of a full CMS system.

Again, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. All my limited experience is with the Epson 6500 and from what I have read.

Thanks for the input. Well I'm stuck with the projector for the forseeable future and I've just got a 32" Samsung that does have a full CMS for my other display so I'll get the D2 Calman package and have a shot at it.

I'm in a similar situation as the OP. I'm looking at the 1-eye 2 with Calman vs Spyder3 with Calman mainly because of the lack of the spyder's monitor software.

My first priority is computer monitor (LCD, CRT, Laptop) calibration. Secondary priority is Plasma display and future front projector (LCoS or LCD) calibration. I've focused on the 1-eye 2 as the best option for the monitor calibration, but like the OP am concerned about the comments on Curtpalme about limitations of the 1-eye for front projector calibration. So a couple of questions:


Any truth to front projector limitations of 1-eye?

Can Calman be used to calibrate a pc monitor? Looking at the demo, it looks like you can chose the appropriate display, but what is missing vs the spyder software?

Any difference between the two in calibrating Plasmas?

Thanks

Well I got the D2 and it has done a great job with my LCD TV and monitors. However, when using it on my projector screen with Calman something is going very wrong.

I follow the Calman instructions along with my DVE Blu Ray disc to set contrast, brightness etc. Then when it comes to greyscale and getting the colour temps correct I follow the Calman diagram where there are 3 lines and you have to get them in the middle for a proper white temp. The program seems to think red is waaaay out and when I manage to get red into the right place the whole image is pretty much red. It can't be right because it's so obvious and in comparison to my other screens it looks terrible. But Calman is saying its correct.

So - right now I'm pointing the D2 at the screen and have selected the appropriate setting in Calman. I've heard you can also point the D2 at the projector itself to get readings. However, I have a Da-Lite High Power screen which has additional gain, so I assume if I take readings from the projector it will be incorrect because the screen will change the output. Is that correct or can I take readings from the projector?

If that's not an option - what can I do? It seems wherever I position the D2 Calman still thinks the projector needs a ridiculous amount of red. Right now I'm getting much worse output than I used to have with the Spyder 3 software.

By the way the D2 comes with PC software that can measure monitor output but the Projector part of the software is locked. What's the best way to get high-def test patterns for my PC (resolution at 1920 x 1080) to set the calibration for my projector when using PC input so I can calibrate it with Calman?

Tried everything so any help with this will be much appreciated, thanks.

Well I got the D2 and it has done a great job with my LCD TV and monitors. However, when using it on my projector screen with Calman something is going very wrong.

I follow the Calman instructions along with my DVE Blu Ray disc to set contrast, brightness etc. Then when it comes to greyscale and getting the colour temps correct I follow the Calman diagram where there are 3 lines and you have to get them in the middle for a proper white temp. The program seems to think red is waaaay out and when I manage to get red into the right place the whole image is pretty much red. It can't be right because it's so obvious and in comparison to my other screens it looks terrible. But Calman is saying its correct.

So - right now I'm pointing the D2 at the screen and have selected the appropriate setting in Calman. I've heard you can also point the D2 at the projector itself to get readings. However, I have a Da-Lite High Power screen which has additional gain, so I assume if I take readings from the projector it will be incorrect because the screen will change the output. Is that correct or can I take readings from the projector?

If that's not an option - what can I do? It seems wherever I position the D2 Calman still thinks the projector needs a ridiculous amount of red. Right now I'm getting much worse output than I used to have with the Spyder 3 software.

By the way the D2 comes with PC software that can measure monitor output but the Projector part of the software is locked. What's the best way to get high-def test patterns for my PC (resolution at 1920 x 1080) to set the calibration for my projector when using PC input so I can calibrate it with Calman?

Tried everything so any help with this will be much appreciated, thanks.

So some things to check. You have selected the option in Calman for the right type of projector and chosen the option that states facing screen?

How far away from the screen is the sensor? It should be fairly close but not such that it looks directly at its own shadow (you may want to face it a a slight angle). It should not be pointed towards a "hotspot" if your material causes that. You should NOT be using the diffuser. What sort of readings are you getting in the Calman 100% IRE test screen before you begin calibration?

Are you using a window or a full field. If your screen size is not that large, or if your distance is over a foot, you may be better using full fields. Unlike plasmas, the effect of full fields over windows should be minimal or none for LCD and LCoS projectors.

2 of us have also found that the i1 D2 (or LT) we own have a red push, meaning it reads red low, so you add more red than needed. We are using HCFR and have created an offset from an i1Pro that compensates for this. You may want to contact Spectracal and see if they can check your meter.
Here's a thread that discusses this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1184633

2 of us have also found that the i1 D2 (or LT) we own have a red push, meaning it reads red low, so you add more red than needed. We are using HCFR and have created an offset from an i1Pro that compensates for this. You may want to contact Spectracal and see if they can check your meter.
Here's a thread that discusses this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1184633

I am aware of that one...but thats a very slight red error. Makes a greyscale just a touch pinky. But the poster is referring to a significant delta

Thank you for your replies.

So far I've had the D2 around a foot, or just over, away from the screen because this gave me the highest light reading. I have it pointing slightly upwards (gives a better reading) and have set all the appropriate options in Calman. The diffuser is off. My screen size is 92" and I have a Mitsubishi HC6000 1080P LCD projector.

The DVE essentials Blu Ray seems only to have window patterns in the middle of the screen so I haven't tried full-field patterns. How could I get some that would play on my PS3/PC at 1080?

I can't have Spectracal check my meter because I'm in Hong Kong, I will check the other thread. Does this mean I will have to learn HCFR to calibrate my projector?

Thank you for your replies.

So far I've had the D2 around a foot, or just over, away from the screen because this gave me the highest light reading. I have it pointing slightly upwards (gives a better reading) and have set all the appropriate options in Calman. The diffuser is off. My screen size is 92" and I have a Mitsubishi HC6000 1080P LCD projector.

The DVE essentials Blu Ray seems only to have window patterns in the middle of the screen so I haven't tried full-field patterns. How could I get some that would play on my PS3/PC at 1080?

I can't have Spectracal check my meter because I'm in Hong Kong, I will check the other thread. Does this mean I will have to learn HCFR to calibrate my projector?

You wont need to learn HCFR. It is true that i1s do seem to end up a touch warm. But I mean a "touch". The greyscale is pretty much neutral with just a tiny hint of pink. I think you wouldn't be unhappy if things ended up like this!

You said you angle the i1 up. If your projector is mounted on the ceiling, and your material suffers from "hotspotting" or "sparklies" (this is when a part of the image directly infront of the lens becomes brighter than the rest); then angling it up may mean the sensor is reading off the hotspot which could cause strange results.

You should be calibrating for Rec 709. Why don't you use the FREE test material available on this site. The AVS HD Rec. 709 1.3 disc is what you want. It has Calman windows and field test materials all ready for you to use.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

The projector is directly in line with the center of the screen (High Power screen is retro-reflective and is best at eye-level of the viewer). I'm not sure about hot-spotting but when I measured with the Spyder 3 previously (borrowed from a friend) I didn't have this issue.

Thanks a lot for the link, that will really help a lot. I think I'll burn an AVCHD DVD so I can do both my PS3 and PC. Once I give it a go I'll try to post initial readings here and then let you know if the result turned out better. Thanks for all your help.

I am aware of that one...but thats a very slight red error. Makes a greyscale just a touch pinky. But the poster is referring to a significant deltaI had visibly greenish screen. I wonder what is the color palette people have collectively after calibration with i1 d2/lt :)
IMHO, DIY optical comparator + AEMC CA813 illuminance meter is more precise option to tune grayscale and gamma, although less convenient

I have an x-rite eye-one i1 display LT, and it seems to me it is out of calibration. We are getting results from our projector that are just too pink. I am not finding any way to send it back to the factory to be re-calibrated.

Don't calibrators need regular re-calibration? Can this one be salvaged or, is there another model I should consider?

Can this one be salvaged or, is there another model I should consider?
Same happened to me, seems the red filter is degrades over time if moisture gets to it, I now keep my new one dry with some silica gel.

John

Mine has gone bad also. It was fine just a couple of months ago, now the red is 50% off.