Just a question to the calibrators and those of you who've had a calibration.

What's the recommendation for separate components? Do each of them need to be run directly in to the TV for the best possible calibration? Or is that only necessary in certain cases?

For instance, I own a couple of HR20 DVRs, a PS3, a PC, and a couple of DVD players which all feed in to my Denon 4308ci AVR, and then go to my TV via HDMI, and also split off to a TV in another room. The most important devices to calibrate would be the PS3, the HR20's, and perhaps the PC.

Should I plan to run everything I want calibrated directly in to the TV? Or are decent components close enough that a single input calibration will work well?

For folks who allow their AVR to do video processing, how good of a job can be done by calibrating each input in to the AVR? and then calibrating the AVR's output in to the TV? Is that done?

The display was set up by driving it directly from the calibration equipment. After calibration the output of my AVR and connected devices were then validated for performance after the display had been properly calibrated. In one case it became necessary to set up a different mode for my media player so when I watch that I just need to change the Picture mode on the display.

Most inputs are comparable in calibration. They will cross over quite well with same settings. If you use one HDMI to your receiver, you probably only need to calibrate that one input.

In one case it became necessary to set up a different mode for my media player so when I watch that I just need to change the Picture mode on the display.

Ahh, that's a good compromise if one of the other modes can be configured to get closer to what's needed. Do any TVs actually provide multiple ISF Day and Night profiles that can be selected on a single input?

Most inputs are comparable in calibration. They will cross over quite well with same settings. If you use one HDMI to your receiver, you probably only need to calibrate that one input.

That'd certainly make things easier.

Most components behave well enough that one calibration can be used for all. In additon, for something like a TV set top box, there's really no practical way of calibrating it anyway.

Most likely the PC is the only device which will require different settings.

Assuming the PS3 is for BD playback, use that for your reference calibration because movie studios use D65K as a baseline. Don't sweat everything else, especially the cable box because color temperature varies wildly channel by channel.

Want proof? Next time Prez Obama is on multiple networks during a state of the union speech, flip through the different channels and notice the changes.