I'm leaning towards a scope screen now. My living room has light walls and a white ceiling. For critical viewing I'm making temporary black panels that cover the walls on the sides of the screen.

Would a 136" scope screen be too crazy? Possibly use some masking for the ceiling? My lens distance can be 13-20 ft away. Looking at the Carada cinema or brilliant white screens.

Once my wife saw what the 4k looked like on the wall she was hooked. Her new thing is "go big or go tube!" so of course I'm trying to accommodate. :D

Sorry, Alex, just saw your post. Thanks very much. Really appreciate it.

I tried all three theater seats, middle being perfectly centered. Image looks good and is bright from both left and right seats. You will notice the drop in brightness as you move from seat to seat. But once you settled, on whichever seat, you will adjust to the drop in brightness so it will be bright enough. I would say the viewing angle is between 25 -30 degrees. If you need precise measurement, let me know and I will measure (with tape) the maximum distance from the center where image brightness drops off to the same level as my 1.0 gain white matte screen. Remember though, I have the AE4000 mounted on a shelf 50" off the floor.

OK, I'm back. Long, hard weekend - didn't get much done, but I did promise pics. Here are a few to give you an idea what I'm dealing with.

First picture - a view of the wall where the screen (did and) will go. You can make out, I believe, Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart here:

Oh and why not, one more - this is the opposite wall of the room, showing the sconces, wall effects and the furniture I've got in there so far. You can see the PJ on the table, and some various junk that's laying about since we just moved in a few weeks back and the theater room has been a bit of a catch-all.

http://imgur.com/LkzfH.jpg

Thats Cool.

-And Nice Crib!

I tried all three theater seats, middle being perfectly centered. Image looks good and is bright from both left and right seats. You will notice the drop in brightness as you move from seat to seat. But once you settled, on whichever seat, you will adjust to the drop in brightness and it will still be bright enough. I would say the viewing angle is between 25 -30 degrees. If you need precise measurement, let me know and I will measure (with tape) the maximum distance from the center where image brightness drops off to the same level as my 1.0 gain white matte screen. Remember though, I have the AE4000 mounted on a shelf 50" off the floor.

Thanks, Alex. Again really appreciate it. No measurements necessary. The 25 to 30 degree angle confirms what I have heard and read. Like you said, the key is the mounting position. With my projector mounted really close to the ceiling, that angle probably will not work for me.

Keep us posted on your setup and calibration, preferrably with pictures. Learning a lot from following it.

I'm leaning towards a scope screen now. My living room has light walls and a white ceiling. For critical viewing I'm making temporary black panels that cover the walls on the sides of the screen.


For a scope screen, you should consider darkening the wall above and below it, as projected black bars will show and become distracting. For a 136" scope screen, the bars are more than 8 and half inches thick each.


Would a 136" scope screen be too crazy? Possibly use some masking for the ceiling? My lens distance can be 13-20 ft away. Looking at the Carada cinema or brilliant white screens.


It depends on the person. There are certainly many using that screen size with this projector and are happy. I would go with the BW screen.

thx. The rooms all done and this little project is an after thought so I probably won't put an outlet on the riser. According to the calculator, I would need 12-14" riser so I'm going with 12" since there's a soffit partially above it. I read about people putting in sand, etc. to dampen the vibration but is that really necessary for rear seating when the base is 20-21ft away in the front of the room? I'm also contemplating whether to carpet it or just sand it down well and stain/paint it. Maybe I'll start it in April after I get my taxes done and when the weather is nicer. Then again, I read it's really heavy so I might have to build it inside/in place (but what to do about all the dust?).....I may have to just skip the sanding and go with carpeting. Awww...so much to worry about! :)

I just built mine a couple of weeks ago. I went with 2x8s for the frame and MDF and kept it pretty simple. My rear seating is just 2 seats so my riser ended up being 48" x 60". At that size the riser is still pretty easy to move, which is important since my projector purchase is a week away and my seating distances will need to be tweaked after the projector is set up. I went with padding and carpet on the riser and I am very happy with it. I found a piece of high quality carpet remnant at a carpet outlet. It ended up being just a tad to small so I am going to add some base board trim around the base of the riser. My materials cost less than $100 total and it was a fun project.

For a scope screen, you should consider darkening the wall above and below it, as projected black bars will show and become distracting. For a 136" scope screen, the bars are more than 8 and half inches thick each.



It depends on the person. There are certainly many using that screen size with this projector and are happy. I would go with the BW screen.

Gotcha. If I can't paint it a darker color then more panels here I come. Thanks jjmbxkb.

Anyone know where the IR receiver is on this projector? I have it on a projector lift and its hard to locate.

Thanks!

Neil

david,

So you used MDF sheets for surfaces? What was the thickness? What sizes to MDF sheets come in? How far apart did you space the 2x8s? I need a riser for a sofa and I want enough space for feet so I was thinking about 60"W (or deep) by atleast 80"L (maybe 96"). Did you panel all sides or did you leave the bottom open? How high was your riser?

Anyone know where the IR receiver is on this projector? I have it on a projector lift and its hard to locate.

Thanks!

Neil

RTFM I found it in the front of the unit. I found it on page 12 of the owners manual. Sorry for breathing and wasting posts :)

Neil

Just got finish watching braveheart...what a great transfer to watch on the 4k.

@all

Well I took the plunge and decided to go with the PTAE4k! This is my first projector purchase and it's quite exciting that it is a 1080p unit. I'm really stoked to get this project launched. All that is left to do is find a contractor at a reasonable rate to construct our simple theatre layout. :D

@all

Well I took the plunge and decided to go with the PTAE4k! This is my first projector purchase and it's quite exciting that it is a 1080p unit. I'm really stoked to get this project launched. All that is left to do is find a contractor at a reasonable rate to construct our simple theatre layout. :D

Congratulations again. Keep us posted on your setup, preferrably with pictures. Thanks.

I found it in the front of the unit. I found it on page 12 of the owners manual. Sorry for breathing and wasting posts :)

Neil

Although it's on the front of the unit I almost always aim the remote at the screeen and let the beam bounce to the projector.

Did any of you upgrade from an AX100 or AX200? Now that many of you have had a few months with your projector, would you say it kills the 100/200 or it's just a nice upgrade? My AX100 is on a 135" Elite 1.1 gain screen in a light controlled room. I might upgrade that to an Elite 2.35 screen when I upgrade the projector. My size would be 158" in 2.35 format. Would the 4000 be bright enough for that screen? I would love some thoughts.

I'd love it if someone could review my plan and let me know any suggestions they have. The theater is built and wired. All I have to do now is build my screen and buy the projector. I am planning on getting the AE4000.

My home theater area is 11' by 18' with 7 foot ceilings. The walls are matte dark taupe and the ceiling is matte black. There are no windows.

I plan on sitting around 13 feet from the screen (can move forward or back)

Throw distance = 15' (can move 8" forward or backward)

I will be building a DIY screen using Designer White (gain of around 1.2)

My plan for the screen is to make it 2.35:1 104" (as big as I can go)

What do you think of this plan? Should I make the screen smaller? Should I sit closer? Further?

What would the ideal throw distance be to maximize contrast?

Thanks.

Just got finish watching braveheart...what a great transfer to watch on the 4k.

Love Braveheart, one of my favorite movies. The bloody middle age battle scenes are just more vivid when viewed on a big projection screen. From the same Saphire collection, The Gladiator was relatively less impressive a transfer.

Although it's on the front of the unit I almost always aim the remote at the screeen and let the beam bounce to the projector.


Yes, I have all my components behind me as I wanted to see nothing but my rear projection tv in front of me. It causes a bit of an issue in that I have to lift up and point the remotes for my AVR and DVR behind me. PS3 is not an issue with Blue Tooth. What is awesome is the IR receiver for the AE4000 picks up the signal from the remote with me pointing it at the screen and not even having to lift it or change the direction of it. Using Viera link, I now don't have to lift and point behind me with my AVR remote as it is HDMI CEC capable as well.

I plan on sitting around 13 feet from the screen (can move forward or back)

Throw distance = 15' (can move 8" forward or backward)



Personally, I would move the seats a couple feet closer for a 95" wide screen. I would also move the projector closer by 8". The zoom range for 104" scope screen is roughly 11' to 15.5'. You want to move it closer to the mid zoom range.


My plan for the screen is to make it 2.35:1 104" (as big as I can go)


That will give you a less than 84" digonal 16:9 image, about 40" in height. You may find it too small. As great as a scope screen is, you may consider a CIW setup, with 110" diagonal 16:9 screen, still 95" wide. This way you get the same sized scope image, but a much bigger and impressive 16:9 image. However, in the end, this will depend on your viewing preference and priorities.


What would the ideal throw distance be to maximize contrast?


My understanding is mid zoom gives you the best picture quality.

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for all the input JJ.

the sheet of Designer White I have is 4x8. For the past 4 months, I have been planning to do a 94" diagonal 16:9 screen. Then, today realized I will be using the screen for BlueRay/DVD/Movies only and that 2.35 would be better suited to that.

Since the max Height I can get, using the sheet I have, is 47" (0.5 inch on top and bottom for frame) and since I'll be using the screen for movies only, is 2.35 the way to go, or do you still think that I should consider the 94" 16:9 screen?

The reason I can't make the 2.35:1 screen any bigger is because it needs to be "short" (height) enough so that it can fit below a soffit/duct and above speakers because the speakers will block the view if the screen is lower. With the 16:9 set up, the screen would be narrow enough to fit between the soffit so that the screen could be displayed higher up the wall.

Thanks again for the help.

Thanks for all the input JJ.

the sheet of Designer White I have is 4x8. For the past 4 months, I have been planning to do a 94" diagonal 16:9 screen. Then, today realized I will be using the screen for BlueRay/DVD/Movies only and that 2.35 would be better suited to that.

Since the max Height I can get, using the sheet I have, is 47" (0.5 inch on top and bottom for frame) and since I'll be using the screen for movies only, is 2.35 the way to go, or do you still think that I should consider the 94" 16:9 screen?

The reason I can't make the 2.35:1 screen any bigger is because it needs to be "short" (height) enough so that it can fit below a soffit/duct and above speakers because the speakers will block the view if the screen is lower. With the 16:9 set up, the screen would be narrow enough to fit between the soffit so that the screen could be displayed higher up the wall.

Thanks again for the help.

No problem.

I see. I would definitely go with the scope screen in that case.

Do you plan to use zoom to do CIH? Are you ceiling mounting the projector? If yes, then you got to make sure the projector lens is within the screen height and at its horizontal center.

A question: The 94" 16:9 screen comes out about 81 to 82". Is that the max width of the space between the sofit?

Thanks.

Thanks again JJ,

I havent figured out if I should do the zoom or not yet. I was planning on mounting the PJ just inside the top border of the screen to allow for that.

The space between sofits is around 88". I need to leave a bit of room to account for the border of the screen.

I guess I'll plan for the 2:35:1 then?

Thanks again

2.35:1 is the way to go.

So you are thinking about using anamorphic lens?

I was hoping we could turn your space constraints into an advantage by adding a 94" 16:9 drop down on top of your 104" DIY. The 104"/94" combo is just perfect for a Constant Image Area (CIA) setup. The problem is the 88" width will be a bit small for a 82" wide drop down, since you will need extra space for the casing. Depending on the screen brands, it may still work.

I have such a setup, and it worked out great beyond my expectations. There is extra cost, but IMHO this setup will fit right into your space constraints, while giving you balanced image sizes and full masking. You are also not under the mounting limitation any more, if it matters. Just another option.

Again, the bottom line is I would definitely go with 2.35:1 screen.

Thanks.

Keopele:

Go with the 2.35:1 screen.

I have a 112" 2.35:1 screen and absolutely love it. My throw is about 13'.

My prime seating area is only 9.5' from the screen. I know people will say "that's to close" but when I sit in that seat and a movie fills the screen it is amazing. I haven't noticed any "screen door effect" problems with the AE3000 and I know the 4000 is just as good. But I don't rely on the projector's upconversion: I only feed it 1080p and do the upconversion in the receiver.

My 16:9 images are 89" diagonally. A bit small but tolerable. I can zoom in a touch for 1.85:1 but it only gets me another few inches. Most of the movies I really care about are 2.35:1, so it works out fine.

My projector is still mounted too high so I can't zoom in for the 16:9 movies without manually readjusting vertically. Instead I switch to S16:9 aspect ratio. It throws away a lot of the projected image, but it makes life easier until I can get a different ceiling mount in place that will let me get the pj low enough.

@all

Couldn't wait for the construction of our simple theatre setup to be finished so I projected onto one of our walls and I was AMAZED! It even looked tremendous being projected onto a wall so am very stoked to get our screen up and have a movie night. Simply amazing PQ! I used the normal mode, eco lamp, and the only adjustment I made was +2 sharpness, the PQ was phenomenal and the sheer size of the picture left me speechless!

My only issues were that my bluray source material is from a popcorn hour a100 and I tried to output at 1080p 25 Hz and the projector couldnt output. Is that normal? Also, what is the best method to focus the projector?

Thanks especially to jjmbxkb & fellow avsforum brethren for this great thread!

...make sure the projector lens is within the screen height and at its horizontal center...

Someone please help me understand this. I keep reading in this thread that the pj has to be centered horizontally for lens memory to work correctly. Now I understand the part about the vertical requirements (lens center being within vertical screen boundaries), however I don't understand the horizontal requirement.

My 4K is ceiling mounted, lens center is a few inches below top of screen, but slightly off horizontal center. I have used the manual horizontal lens shift to correct for this. Lens memory seems to work perfectly fine -- I use all six memory banks for various aspect ratios.

What am I missing here? :confused:

Hi, phipsi1: Take a look at post #4346 at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18275195&highlight=popcorn+hour+a100#post18275195, where terminte and raster8 were exchanging information on the PH A100 output settings.

At least in my own experience, I actually "learned" to rely on the pattern in Focus/Zoom menu. If you found it hard to use, I've seen people using text in the center of the screen to focus.

Thanks.

Someone please help me understand this. I keep reading in this thread that the pj has to be centered horizontally for lens memory to work correctly. Now I understand the part about the vertical requirements (lens center being within vertical screen boundaries), however I don't understand the horizontal requirement.

My 4K is ceiling mounted, lens center is a few inches below top of screen, but slightly off horizontal center. I have used the manual horizontal lens shift to correct for this. Lens memory seems to work perfectly fine -- I use all six memory banks for various aspect ratios.

What am I missing here? :confused:

Hi, JameN: Here is my take on it.

The same physics applies to the horizontal direction when zooming. With your projector slightly off the horizontal center, the 16:9 image may not be at the exact horizontal center of your scope screen, but it's just much less noticeable, if at all. You probably have to measure it to find out. (If you center the 16:9 image first, the scope image will overscan a little bit on one side.)

Usually this is not a problem as most installs will roughtly center the projector horizontally to the screen. On the other hand, some posters do engage large amount of horizontal lens shift, and found it impossible to center the 16:9 image or fit the 2.35:1 image.

So no, you are not missing anything. It was a quick reminder just in case.

Howdy all. I'm building my first home theater and I'm pretty sure I've decided on the Panny 4000. First experience with projectors and I'm trying to take it all in as quickly as I can. Basement started out unfinished. I just finished the framing and am running wires at this point. Anyway, I'm wondering what your thoughts were on my plan:

Room size: 13' x 37' with 7' 4" ceilings It's an open room with a theater + game room. Screen will be on one of the 13' walls. Thus, the projector will basically be hanging down, from the ceiling, right in the middle of the room (somewhat above a knee wall / bar thing).

Throw: I was thinking around 14 - 15'. 15' is about the max I can do but I might be able to squeeze another foot if necessary. I could go as short as I want.

Screen: DIY. Not sure about material. Maybe black-out cloth? I'm still learning in this department.

Seating distance: About 12 - 13'

At first I was thinking of a 16x9 screen as my HTPC will be hooked up to it and I will probably be gaming on it in addition to watching movies but this CIH stuff is really tempting. My limiting factor in screen size is a soffit in the upper left corner of the screen wall. I was going to mount the screen under the soffit. Bottom of the soffit = 80" off the floor (no stage or anything like that).

I was thinking of a 110" 16 x 9 screen (54" x 96"). I thought about a 120" but I was thinking that the bottom of it would be too close to the floor (again, soffit prevents me from raising it up more). I was then thinking about doing CIH. How big a scope screen would you guys go with for a room like that? What about throw?

I'm not even sure if I can get away with doing the CIH zooming thing with this projector due to how low I'd have to mount the projector. My wife is expecting this thing to be almost flush mounted to the ceiling which I think is okay with a straight up 16x9 screen but not okay for a CIH setup (right?). I quickly ran the idea about having it mounted lower and she's not a big fan of that. I'll have to work on that.

I've been using those theater calculators (like the one on projetorcentral.com) but I'm just looking for some opinions here. Sorry for being long winded.

Nice another Colorado theater!!!

Think long and hard about that scope aspect screen. It's not for everybody.

How many seats are you thinking of going with? Rows, seats in each row, how far is thew seating back from the screen.

Nice another Colorado theater!!!

Think long and hard about that scope aspect screen. It's not for everybody.

How many seats are you thinking of going with? Rows, seats in each row, how far is thew seating back from the screen.

Yup, been living in colorado for about 3 years now. Great place. It's not exactly a dedicated theater. It's more like a living room + game room that happens to have a projector and a really big screen in it. Thus, it's more of a typical living room seating arrangement with a sofa facing the screen and a loveseat along the side wall... like a sectional couch layout. My wife doesn't want a more typical home theater seating arrangement with 2 row seating and whatnot (plus I don't think it would work very well in my basement anyway).

So... about 12' - 13' from the screen to the sofa. Loveseat will be closer but I'm not concerned about that or the fact that it's off to the side. After all, it's just my wife and I. There will be bar seating behind the sofa... about 16' from the screen but again, I'm not concerned about that being perfect although it would be nice if that fit into the equation nicely. After all, I imagine we'll be eating dinner there most nights and watching tv/movies.

Has anybody heard whether or not Panasonic is planning a firmware upgrade to make the 4000u 3d compatible?

In order to be 3D compatible the LCD panels would have to refresh at at least 120Hz. Since the projector uses frame interpolation and not a true 120 Hz refresh to give the picture smoother motion, my guess is they are not capable of doing that. Therefore I don't see it happening.

All I can say is....I'm speechless! Just watched Dave Matthews & Tim Reynolds Radio City Hall concert and am blown away by the PQ that the PTAE4k outputs! I honestly felt like I was there in the front row and with my "virtual" Surround Sound 5.1 (using a Philips Soundbar - I can't even imagine the experience if I invested in a true 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system - possibly the next investment if the wife approves :D), was absolutely blown away by the "theatre-like" experience! And to think, I was on the verge of purchasing the Pioneer KRP600M (60in. Kuro plasma) for php300,000 (equiv to approx $6,500 USD!) but instead happened upon an audio visual store that had the PTAE4k in a demo room and was immediately relieved that I didn't make the Kuro purchase since I got the PTAE4k & a 100" motorized, white matte screen, 0.8 gain for a total price of php158,000 (equiv to approx $3,450 USD!) which is a price differential of $3,050 USD! :D The viewing experience is just completely different with the PTAE4k compared to a large plasma or LCD. There is no comparison. The only issue that I foresee is the lamp life or the dreaded dust blob that I have read about in the forum. So a bit of "babying" must be done with the unit. But in my opinion, it is well worth it. Really stoked to start our simple theatre construction (can't seem to find a reasonable price from contractor estimates) and I still haven't decided to either ceiling or floor mount the unit simply because we are in a condo so there may be wiring issues, etc. But fellas, this is an amazing 1080p 3LCD projector. So far, it has surpassed all my expectations!

Cheers fellas!

Hi, phipsi1: I suppose this is a Blu-ray you are playing? So how did you resolve the problem with playback from PH A100? Thanks.

Here's a tip when you use the focus.

I read where people complain about the focus over shooting when trying to dial it in as clear as possible.

It was a pain for me also but I figured it out. When holding the focus button
you hear the lens motor hum and people assume it's not focusing unless they hear the motor hum..not so.

Don't hold the focus button..just tap it and release and keep tapping and releasing one tap at a time it until it's clear. You won't hear the lens motor at all but it is moving.

Make it real blurry then just stand right up close ( Test Pattern On ) to your screen with the remote in hand and tap the focus button one tap at a time and you will see it slowly come into focus .

It will be spot on clear and it only takes about 10 taps :D

Here's a tip when you use the focus.

I read where people complain about the focus over shooting when trying to dial it in as clear as possible.

It was a pain for me also but I figured it out. When holding the focus button
you hear the lens motor hum and people assume it's not focusing unless they hear the motor hum..not so.

Don't hold the focus button..just tap it and release and keep tapping and releasing one tap at a time it until it's clear. You won't hear the lens motor at all but it is moving.

Make it real blurry then just stand right up close ( Test Pattern On ) to your screen with the remote in hand and tap the focus button one tap at a time and you will see it slowly come into focus .

It will be spot on clear and it only takes about 10 taps :D

I do the same thing except I do from my seat. What I don't like about the focus is that it takes a good 30 minutes or more from startup for the picture to come into perfect focus. For the first 30 minutes the image is blurry.

I do the same thing except I do from my seat. What I don't like about the focus is that it takes a good 30 minutes or more from startup for the picture to come into perfect focus. For the first 30 minutes the image is blurry.

Is is normal for most PJ's to take that long ?

I only ask because this is my first PJ.

Thanks

Here's a tip when you use the focus.

I read where people complain about the focus over shooting when trying to dial it in as clear as possible.

It was a pain for me also but I figured it out. When holding the focus button
you hear the lens motor hum and people assume it's not focusing unless they hear the motor hum..not so.

Don't hold the focus button..just tap it and release and keep tapping and releasing one tap at a time it until it's clear. You won't hear the lens motor at all but it is moving.

Make it real blurry then just stand right up close ( Test Pattern On ) to your screen with the remote in hand and tap the focus button one tap at a time and you will see it slowly come into focus .

It will be spot on clear and it only takes about 10 taps :D

10 taps, interesting coincidence...here is what the obsessive compulsive side of me discovered when trying to find the "center" point of focus. From the focused center point, tap to where one first gets out of focus in either direction. From either point just immediately out of focus, it is five taps to the center point...or 10 taps from one out of focus point to the other. :D

Please note I am not talking about a point where one taps the focus button and is way out of focus and then five taps brings it into perfect focus. Again, the first tap on the focus button in either direction that brings the projector out of focus and from that point it is five taps back to center focus.


Out of focus: tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap: Center point in focus: tap, tap, tap, tap, tap: Out of focus.

How are you guys liking the projector so far?


I am loving it and already have 80 hours on it in 12 days. :eek: I watch a lot of hockey and although I said I was only going to use it for movies...oh well. I am enjoying it. Plus I have been using it for some PS3 gaming. Gran Turismo Prologue is such a realistic driving game and must be seen on the A4000 and HP screen.

Is is normal for most PJ's to take that long ?

I only ask because this is my first PJ.

Thanks

I don't think so. I did check my previous PJ (Sharp Z3000) last night, which is still mounted, and it takes only a few minutes to get into perfect focus.

... 80 hours on it in 12 days....

:eek::eek::eek:

... Gran Turismo Prologue is such a realistic driving game and must be seen on the A4000 and HP screen...

I don't play video game any more, but I can only imagine how realistic it must be. Almost 20 years, I used my first pay to buy a Nintendo, and the racing game was one of my favorites. Must be really great an experience to you to burn 80 hours in 12 days. :cool:

Newbie to projectors and thinking about getting the PT-AE4000

I'm looking at DA-Lite screens and have seen a lot of good discussion on the High Power screen.

If I'm going with Da-Lite 106" what is your suggestion paired with PT-AE4000?

The projector will be ceiling mounted. Some ambient light but can be controlled.

I have a Hi-power paired with the 4k like it just fine. By ceiling mounting your PJ you will not really be taking advantage of the screens gain capabilities but it has some other qualities that you will appreciate. One being that it will work well with ambient light, especially the off axis sources, and the other being that if you are going with a pull down screen the inevitable waves will be much less noticeable.

I have a Hi-power paired with the 4k like it just fine. By ceiling mounting your PJ you will not really be taking advantage of the screens gain capabilities but it has some other qualities that you will appreciate. One being that it will work well with ambient light, especially the off axis sources, and the other being that if you are going with a pull down screen the inevitable waves will be much less noticeable.

I'm doing a perm wall mount so no wave probs.

Are there other Da Lite surfaces better for the ceiling mount and conditions I mentioned above?

Hi, phipsi1: I suppose this is a Blu-ray you are playing? So how did you resolve the problem with playback from PH A100? Thanks.

@jjmbxkb:

After reading through the manual, I found that the projector doesn't support 1080p25Hz & 1080p30Hz....But fortunately it supports 1080p60Hz, 1080p59.95Hz, 1080p24Hz, & 1080p23.xxHz. A portion of my 720p boxing & tennis collection when viewed on my 1080p Philips LCD needed to viewed in 1080p25Hz, but fortunately it can be viewed on 1080p50Hz using the PTAE4k.

Still having a great viewing experience with the unit and have logged 12 viewing hours the past four days. Really look forward to getting the projector screen installed and seeing the PQ on a screen instead of my wall. :D

Anyone bought this projector in Canada? I live in the east and can't find any reputable Panasonic dealers.

Anyone bought this projector in Canada? I live in the east and can't find any reputable Panasonic dealers.Buy from an American mail order company (see the forum sponsors) and have it shipped to a UPS store just on the other side of the border. Drive over and bring it in yourself. You'll save a fortune.

Do some searching in this forum and you'll find lots of good advice on this.

Mike

Last night we watched MI-3 in HD DVD and the Dalite HP and Sharp Z3000 combo was just fantastic. I was complaining about the not so good black level with the AE4000/HP screen combo but the black level on the Sharp was much better than I remember it on the AE4000. So I fired up my AE4000 and started playing the same movie checking out dark scenes. All, I mean all, dark scenes on this disc are very dark wine red!! Like a very dark burgundy! So I FF to the credit roll and sure enough the background was not black but very very dark red! Wine red tint all over the screen. Played the same credit roll with the Sharp and it is black. I don't know what of make of this. I didn't check other discs as it was very late so I left it at that. What could be wrong here ? I can't wait to check out the same scene with the Sharp Z12000 when I receive it this week. I am also planning to grab MI-3 in Blu-ray and play it back with my Pio FD51 player just to rule out the HD DVD disc and the HD DVD player as the culprits. I doubt it is the disc as the problem is not present on the Sharp.

Would love some expert advice. This one has stumped me (I'll probably cross-post this in both the FiOS and PT-AE4000u forums).

Been with FiOS for over a year now and have been quite happy with the service (just re-upped for another year). My home had a small office attached to the garage (that had coax) and we just expanded that office to become a small home theater (using the PT-AE4000u). I had the Home Media DVR in the family room hooked up to a Pioneer Plasma and added a second HD DVR when the theater was finished. Both are model 6416.


As I was watching Lost (local ABC HD affiliate) each week in the new room, I began to notice that the picture would skip every few minutes...like it lost a few frames. Strange thing is that it happened every week but on other channels (e.g. Fox and NBC) I was seeing no such problem. Over the next few weeks I tried the following trouble-shooting:


- Switched the DVR to connect via component instead of HDMI...skips in the exact same parts (rules out HDMI issues)

- Recorded the same show on the DVR in the family room and brought it into the projector...skips in the exact same parts (rules out the wiring to the new room since the family room box is recording the same way)

- When viewing the same show on the Plasma, the issue is not as noticeable...presumably because I believe the Pioneer Plasma handles signal interference much better than the projector (plus, there is a difference watching it on a 43 inch screen vs a 100 inch screen)


I started flipping around channels and definitely saw the same problem on a few other channels as well (but not all). Seems to be a bit random which channels have it and which don't. The other issue I saw (clearly on both the projector and plasma) was the bottom crawler on ESPNews. The letters switch between totally clear and a bit scrambled and jumpy.


I finally called FiOS out on Friday and they confirmed my worst nightmare...everything looked fine. They could see the problems on my DVR recordings but the signal strength was fantastic and they could perceive no issues. Before they left they swapped out all my splitters and reset my exterior box. They gave me their card and indicated the next step would be to swap out the boxes. Sure enough, recorded a show on ABC last night...still skipped. Crawler on ESPNews still getting a bit scrambled.


So, I'm probably going to call them back today to swap out the boxes (from the 6-series to the 7-series) but I'm not convinced it's going to work. Here are my thoughts:


- Because the problem is so much more noticeable on the projector than the plasma, I start to think the problem is with the projector...BUT...

- It wouldn't seem to be the projector since it is the same problem on Component and HDMI plus why would the projector only skip on certain channels (at the exact same points on both boxes), plus the ESPNews crawler problem is obviously there on both.

- Swapping out the boxes seems like a long shot. What are the chances going from 6-series to 7-series would magically solve my problems.

- After considering all that, it feels like there must be an upstream problem...but I seemingly have no way to prove that!


Sorry for the length...ideas?

Don't know anything about it but reading on the Samsung B750 thread people are complaing about the same thing ABC over the air HD and lost. They say it is something about how ABC is sending the signal. Don't know if it helps you, just thought it sounded like the some thing.

Wizzack,

Any news yet on your warranty repair?

Nick

Would love some expert advice. This one has stumped me (I'll probably cross-post this in both the FiOS and PT-AE4000u forums).

Been with FiOS for over a year now and have been quite happy with the service (just re-upped for another year). My home had a small office attached to the garage (that had coax) and we just expanded that office to become a small home theater (using the PT-AE4000u). I had the Home Media DVR in the family room hooked up to a Pioneer Plasma and added a second HD DVR when the theater was finished. Both are model 6416.


As I was watching Lost (local ABC HD affiliate) each week in the new room, I began to notice that the picture would skip every few minutes...like it lost a few frames. Strange thing is that it happened every week but on other channels (e.g. Fox and NBC) I was seeing no such problem. Over the next few weeks I tried the following trouble-shooting:


- Switched the DVR to connect via component instead of HDMI...skips in the exact same parts (rules out HDMI issues)

- Recorded the same show on the DVR in the family room and brought it into the projector...skips in the exact same parts (rules out the wiring to the new room since the family room box is recording the same way)

- When viewing the same show on the Plasma, the issue is not as noticeable...presumably because I believe the Pioneer Plasma handles signal interference much better than the projector (plus, there is a difference watching it on a 43 inch screen vs a 100 inch screen)


I started flipping around channels and definitely saw the same problem on a few other channels as well (but not all). Seems to be a bit random which channels have it and which don't. The other issue I saw (clearly on both the projector and plasma) was the bottom crawler on ESPNews. The letters switch between totally clear and a bit scrambled and jumpy.


I finally called FiOS out on Friday and they confirmed my worst nightmare...everything looked fine. They could see the problems on my DVR recordings but the signal strength was fantastic and they could perceive no issues. Before they left they swapped out all my splitters and reset my exterior box. They gave me their card and indicated the next step would be to swap out the boxes. Sure enough, recorded a show on ABC last night...still skipped. Crawler on ESPNews still getting a bit scrambled.


So, I'm probably going to call them back today to swap out the boxes (from the 6-series to the 7-series) but I'm not convinced it's going to work. Here are my thoughts:


- Because the problem is so much more noticeable on the projector than the plasma, I start to think the problem is with the projector...BUT...

- It wouldn't seem to be the projector since it is the same problem on Component and HDMI plus why would the projector only skip on certain channels (at the exact same points on both boxes), plus the ESPNews crawler problem is obviously there on both.

- Swapping out the boxes seems like a long shot. What are the chances going from 6-series to 7-series would magically solve my problems.

- After considering all that, it feels like there must be an upstream problem...but I seemingly have no way to prove that!


Sorry for the length...ideas?

I saw this when I first got the projector and watched The Fast and The Furious opening credits. After some looking around, I found that Frame Creation was set to +1 (default out of the box). I cut it off and everything was buttery smooth.

-J

Last night we watched MI-3 in HD DVD and the Dalite HP and Sharp Z3000 combo was just fantastic. I was complaining about the not so good black level with the AE4000/HP screen combo but the black level on the Sharp was much better than I remember it on the AE4000. So I fired up my AE4000 and started playing the same movie checking out dark scenes. All, I mean all, dark scenes on this disc are very dark wine red!! Like a very dark burgundy! So I FF to the credit roll and sure enough the background was not black but very very dark red! Wine red tint all over the screen. Played the same credit roll with the Sharp and it is black. I don't know what of make of this. I didn't check other discs as it was very late so I left it at that. What could be wrong here ? I can't wait to check out the same scene with the Sharp Z12000 when I receive it this week. I am also planning to grab MI-3 in Blu-ray and play it back with my Pio FD51 player just to rule out the HD DVD disc and the HD DVD player as the culprits. I doubt it is the disc as the problem is not present on the Sharp.

Sounds like your color temperature is set towards the warm side.

I have mine set to Cool and no reddish blacks at all.

-J

Wizzack,

Any news yet on your warranty repair?

Nick

WOW! This is weird. I signed in to post my update and just saw your post.

I was working from home today and the doorbell rings. It's UPS with the projector. Would have been nice if Panasonic let me know they were shipping since I just talked to them last week. :rolleyes:

My packing slip says: "CST STATING THAT HE IS GETTING A GREEN TINT, WHEN CST PUTS UP CONVERGENCE TEST PATTERN, CST DOES NOT GETTING 2 ROWS OF GREEN"

Service performed: "CLEANED"

To my eyes it looks better. A lot better. I have no idea what they did. Will check menu settings and throw up some patterns tonight. Or maybe I just leave it alone and be happy. :confused: I just had on "Gigi" on HDNet and the colors were rich and natural with no ****** green tint. Vibrant reds, blues, etc and whites were white.

I assume there's no charge since the form said it would have to be paid BEFORE they mailed it back. Haven't had a chance to call them to confirm anything yet.

Sounds like your color temperature is set towards the warm side.

I have mine set to Cool and no reddish blacks at all.

-J

I checked the gray scale ramp and I see no red push there.

david,

So you used MDF sheets for surfaces? What was the thickness? What sizes to MDF sheets come in? How far apart did you space the 2x8s? I need a riser for a sofa and I want enough space for feet so I was thinking about 60"W (or deep) by atleast 80"L (maybe 96"). Did you panel all sides or did you leave the bottom open? How high was your riser?

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, had a busy weekend. I had a typo in my original post, I used OSB for the top, not MDF. I left the bottom open and I spaced the 2x8s 12" apart. I covered it with carpet pad and carpet. Its pretty heavy, but still moveable.

having a problem with the trigger output on the PT-AE4000u. My Da-Lite screen needs 12v (Panny has that) and 83mv to trigger screen. I have set the trigger to "output" by using the info on the CD that came with the Panny.

Doesn't trigger the screen. Anyone using Da-Lite roll-up and the PT-ae4000u?

Screen was working fine with my Optoma, so I don't think the problem is in the screen or wiring.

Well after so much reading and research, I bit the bullet last night and ordered the PT-AE4000 from PP. Performance specs and features knocked out every other projector I researched in the price range.
I am so excited and nervous at the same time. This is my first projector and I can't wait to get it up and running and experience a cinema scope screen with my favorite movies in my house. I am very anxious about this purchase, I just hope this projector lives up to my expectations. I've never seen it in action in person, that is where most of my anxiety is coming from.

I've got a few questions for anybody who has recently ordered from PP.

How is shipping working out lately, with new PT-AE4000 orders shipping weekly?
Just trying to get an idea of when this thing will arrive at my door. Should I get it by the end of the week? I am going to have to do some re-wiring and move my equipment around to get my room ready for the projector.

nothign to be nervous about, will be spectacular and you will hate TVs for the most part afterwards

thanks David!

I've got a few questions for anybody who has recently ordered from PP.

How is shipping working out lately, with new PT-AE4000 orders shipping weekly?
Just trying to get an idea of when this thing will arrive at my door. Should I get it by the end of the week? I am going to have to do some re-wiring and move my equipment around to get my room ready for the projector.

Did they tell you what number you were on the waiting list? I ordered my on March 14th, and was told that I was #93. They received two shipments in since my order (50 units and 20 units), but as of this morning they did not know when the next shipment was arriving. Hopefully they will get it soon, and it will be at least 23 units ;)

Did they tell you what number you were on the waiting list? I ordered my on March 14th, and was told that I was #93. They received two shipments in since my order (50 units and 20 units), but as of this morning they did not know when the next shipment was arriving. Hopefully they will get it soon, and it will be at least 23 units ;)

Wow, I didn't know there was a waiting list. I ordered online and I haven't talked to anyone from PP yet. Sounds like it may be a few weeks before it shows up. When I ordered free shipping was back, so I thought maybe they had some in stock.

I have about 100 hours on 4000 and absolutely enjoying my projector. However, I have noticed when watching hockey games (HD), there are times when the picture shows a trailing effect of the hockey puck. Is this normal for this LCD projector or am I missing adjusting a particular setting? Appreciate any insight.

Wow, I didn't know there was a waiting list. I ordered online and I haven't talked to anyone from PP yet. Sounds like it may be a few weeks before it shows up. When I ordered free shipping was back, so I thought maybe they had some in stock.

I just got updated that 28 more units should arrive at PP on Thursday...mine should ship this week.

Definitely not insights, since I mostly watch movies with this projector. So purely out of speculation, I would be looking at two places, if you have not done so:

Frame Creation setting under Picture -> Advanced menu. For sports, many set it to be 1 or 2. It should reduce the after images.

Another setting is Frame Response under Option. Try setting it to fast.

Hope this helps.

I have about 100 hours on 4000 and absolutely enjoying my projector. However, I have noticed when watching hockey games (HD), there are times when the picture shows a trailing effect of the hockey puck. Is this normal for this LCD projector or am I missing adjusting a particular setting? Appreciate any insight.

I have just received my screen yesterday, and was watching Sens vs Mtl, I did notice the exact same thing as you.

Frame creation was set to 1, I have set it to disable and then the trailing effect disapeared.

any reason why you would NOT set frame response to fast?

i just put mine on fast and left it?! lol. i play games and stream movies over pc mostly

WOW! This is weird. I signed in to post my update and just saw your post.

I was working from home today and the doorbell rings. It's UPS with the projector. Would have been nice if Panasonic let me know they were shipping since I just talked to them last week. :rolleyes:

My packing slip says: "CST STATING THAT HE IS GETTING A GREEN TINT, WHEN CST PUTS UP CONVERGENCE TEST PATTERN, CST DOES NOT GETTING 2 ROWS OF GREEN"

Service performed: "CLEANED"

To my eyes it looks better. A lot better. I have no idea what they did. Will check menu settings and throw up some patterns tonight. Or maybe I just leave it alone and be happy. :confused: I just had on "Gigi" on HDNet and the colors were rich and natural with no ****** green tint. Vibrant reds, blues, etc and whites were white.

I assume there's no charge since the form said it would have to be paid BEFORE they mailed it back. Haven't had a chance to call them to confirm anything yet.

That's a pretty good outcome. You've pushed me towards sending mine in as well. I'm getting a new camera very soon (14 MP) so I'll post some pictures and get everyone's opinion on how bad my misconvergence is.

A few posts back (#4549) I posted about a multi-month problem I've had with certain channels dropping frames/skipping using my PT-AE4000u with my FiOS HD boxes. As I expressed then, it has been a crazy few months trying to fix this.

Tonight, I randomly turned Frame Creation to "Off" from "Mode 1." And for the first time in 3 months I had no skipping at all on any channels. Amazing.

This brings me to the following question...

Most people here seem to use Frame Creation. If I use it, I get frame drops/skipping on many of my HD channels. I can only conclude one of two things:
A. There is something wrong with my Projector and Frame Creation isn't working as it should.
B. It's normal that for some set-ups/channels that Frame Creation actually causes skipping of the picture.

Basically, unless my Projector is broken, I'm stuck with Frame Creation off from now on...

Thoughts?

IQ22 -- Although the Frame Creation (FC or sometimes called Frame Insertion, FI) function "may" be broken on your AE4000, you may be mis-interpreting what it is supposed to do. FC was mainly introduced to take care of 1080p/24 (24 frames per second) "judder" that can occur in movies on Blu-Ray discs, most of which are mastered at 24 fps (and are a progressive, frame by frame signal = 1080p).

TV programs are usually broadcast as 1080i/60 (interlaced, 60 fps - in this case, fields per second). Using FC (or FI) on these signals may be "confusing" the processor chips since it is trying to insert frames between successive fields of an interlaced signal (2 fields = 1 frame). The assumption that I am making is that your STB (your FIOS HD box) is sending an interlaced signal (1080i) to your AE4000, and not a 1080p/30 (30 fps progressive) signal.

Part of your problem might be solved if your FIOS STB is capable of sending a 1080p video to your AE4000 (but it must be set to do so). Most HD TV tuners can only send a 1080i video signal to a display. The FC function may not be able to operate correctly with that kind of signal. Also, the AE4000 must be set to output your video at a 60 frame per second rate (twice the normal 30fps rate of a normal 1080p/30 video). I don't own an AE4000, so I don't have the detailed setup required.

If you are trying to use the FC function to eliminate motion blur on TV signals, I think there is another setup function that needs to be set in the AE4000 to perform that function. You need to double-check your owner's manual for that (I believe that there is one). In other words, getting the AE4000 set up to correctly handle a 1080 interlaced input signal may be the key to solving the problem. Also (from your prior post - Lost on ABC HD), your problem may be due to the signal source, itself, and not what the other parts of the video chain are doing.

Turning Off FC is certainly the solution to the frame skipping (dropping). That shuts off all "extra" video processing that may, or may not, add extra artifacts to the signal. FC is not a cure for all video ills, and was not intended to be a fix for poor video quality.

IQ22Part of your problem might be solved if your FIOS STB is capable of sending a 1080p video to your AE4000 (but it must be set to do so). Most HD TV tuners can only send a 1080i video signal to a display.

A better approach is to connect your STB to an AV Receiver which has a decent video de-interlacer to convert the 1080i video signal to 1080p, before outputing to the AE4000. For example, I use the on-board HQV Reon-VX chip of the Onkyo NR3007 to convert my 1080i/50 HDTV signal (HDTV in Hong Kong is broadcasted in 50Hz) to 1080p/50 signal and feed it to AE4000, and use Frame Creation Mode 1 to enhance playback smoothness - the result is perfect without noticing any frame dropping.

IQ22 - I have my 4000 hooked up to my Onkyo 876 AVR which outputs my signal from my Time Warner Cable to 1080p. I can tell you that the other day I was watching golf on a HD signal and when the camera was following the ball in the air (all you can see is sky and ball) it would show almost 3 balls. I turned FC from Mode 1 to Off and this fixed it. I have used FC set to Mode 1 for HD football but never really saw a distraction.

What is the best way to integrate this projector with my theater remote? IR extender?

What is the best way to integrate this projector with my theater remote? IR extender?

I can only assume that your remote is in the same room as the projector. In that case, just 'bounce' the IR off the screen. I know that works for both the AE-4000 remote and my Harmony remote.

I can only assume that your remote is in the same room as the projector. In that case, just 'bounce' the IR off the screen. I know that works for both the AE-4000 remote and my Harmony remote.

Ok the remote is in the same room, but I was tring to do RF with my stuff... what is the serial control for on the back of the projector?

HELP AE-4000 owners

has anyone noticed the fan kind of pulsing, i.e. not a smooth consistent noise. This projector is my fourth pana (ae3000 ax200 ae900) and seems the loudest.

have sent back to panasonic who replaced the fan and said the set up internally is different and pushes over the power supply, any way still pulsing on eco mode. replies would be appreciated as i want to be happier about my purchase. I sit close about 4.5 ft apart from the noise it is beautiful.

New PT-AE4000 PJ, great machine but have 2 questions:

1. What a cheap remote, where are the direct input buttons? Yeah there is 1 FUNCTION button progammable (wo-wo) but switching input with Harmony is pain in the as* to configure and I need to switch input between my activites.

Any direct IR codes or tweak?



2. Is there a way the the PJ will remember the picture mode between input and/or input signal?

My previous Optoma did that. For example, on HDMI1 1080P it would goes in CINEMA 1 mode, on HDMI1 1080i, it woulf goes in DYNAMIC mode and on HDMI3 it would goes in NORMAL mode.

Or again, any direct IR code to go in a specific PICTURE mode or a profile mode so I can add that to my Harmony?

Thanks

what is the serial control for on the back of the projector?

New PT-AE4000 PJ, great machine but have 2 questions:

1. What a cheap remote, where are the direct input buttons? Yeah there is 1 FUNCTION button progammable (wo-wo) but switching input with Harmony is pain in the as* to configure and I need to switch input between my activites.

Any direct IR codes or tweak?



2. Is there a way the the PJ will remember the picture mode between input and/or input signal?

My previous Optoma did that. For example, on HDMI1 1080P it would goes in CINEMA 1 mode, on HDMI1 1080i, it woulf goes in DYNAMIC mode and on HDMI3 it would goes in NORMAL mode.

Or again, any direct IR code to go in a specific PICTURE mode or a profile mode so I can add that to my Harmony?

Thanks

No, not directly. Most of what you want to do can be done via the RS232 port on the back. This has been discussed in some detail in the following thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206105&highlight=rs232

The RS232 commands are discussed in detail on pages 42 through 44 in the Function Manual which I believe is on the CD packed with your projector.

About ready to pull the trigger. I assume people buying from "PP" is Projector People?? Is that right?

Also, is anyone gaming on this projector? How is the input lag?

Thanks in advance!

Yes, PP is projector people. Update on my order for those that care, it shipped from PP today, I should have it on Friday, yippeee!

I just got my AE4000 from PP (Projector People). Dealt with Todd, great service. A then friend forwarded it to me in Australia.

Does anyone know, or care to speculate, if a DVDO Edge would be of much benifit with an AE4000 when watching low res source like PC or SD TV?

Or does the AE4000 process the image enough internaly to not make the DVDO Edge worthwhile? I can get one for $500.

Thanks,

Steve

I just got my AE4000 from PP (Projector People). Dealt with Todd, great service. A then friend forwarded it to me in Australia.

Does anyone know, or care to speculate, if a DVDO Edge would be of much benifit with an AE4000 when watching low res source like PC or SD TV?

Or does the AE4000 process the image enough internaly to not make the DVDO Edge worthwhile? I can get one for $500.

Thanks,

Steve

I have a DVDO Edge paired with the 4K and the improvement is significant which made me very happy. You will not regret it if you go that route as I did.

Thanks, I think I'll get it and give it a go :)

Still hoping someone can comment on gaming on this projector!

*prays*

WilliamG, there is a thread about lag times. If i did this right this link should take you there.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1210981

Thanks CSMike, must have missed that since it's in the $3k+ forum! Good info. Looks to be 33ms-40ms. Should be just fine for my gaming needs. :)

I have a DVDO Edge paired with the 4K and the improvement is significant which made me very happy. You will not regret it if you go that route as I did.

How good is the Edge in noise reduction. I read it doesn't do a good job in that department.

How far below the screen would this need to be to use the auto zoom function? My ceiling is only 7.5' and I didn't plan on mounting a projector any lower than I could so at most maybe 6.75'. Figured my screen would be at least 12 inches down or more.

How far below the screen would this need to be to use the auto zoom function? My ceiling is only 7.5' and I didn't plan on mounting a projector any lower than I could so at most maybe 6.75'. Figured my screen would be at least 12 inches down or more.

The centerline of the projector needs to be at, or below, the the top edge of the screen for the auto zoom to work reliably and properly. Apparently, some folks have fudge a bit by tipping the projector down but this will introduce keystoning of the picture. (You might consider mounting the projector over a seat as this will prevent someone from walking into it.)

I talked with PP earlier tonight, they said they are getting 106 units in!! Mine should ship out Friday.

Thanks, I think I'll get it and give it a go :)

Make sure you get the latest firmware which is 1.4

How good is the Edge in noise reduction. I read it doesn't do a good job in that department.

I haven't used this feature yet so I cannot make an educated comment. But I tell you this, I thought I would not see a perceptible improvement on my Oppo 83 but I did and the difference is very obvious. This is a great product. the greatest improvement I see though is in satellite reception and DVHS playback.

RS232 ?!?$T("*/?(%/?"($% Is Panasonic living in the 19th century? Gosh my 1200bps modem on my XT computer needed an RS232 port :p

That really sucks then...

On the top of that, I just packed up my 1st PT-AE4000 back in is box for an exchange at the store tomorrow. I have a big focus problem in the lower right corner. Check the 16 pics I took here:
http://public.fotki.com/angel2167882/pt-ae4000_problem/

Among them, thoses are the most evident from a Web page:
Low Left Corner:
http://images41.fotki.com/v209/photos/3/56153/8580770/02aWebpageonleftcorner-vi.jpg

Low Right Corner:
http://images22.fotki.com/v811/photos/3/56153/8580770/02bWebpageonrightcorner-vi.jpg

And yes, the camera was standing on a tripod using a 2sec delay for trigger and yes I cleaned the PJ lens just in case but nothing as changed. Looks like an internal problem. Damn, it's been almost a month without a PJ now (read my Optoma story) :(

This unit was built in January 2010, don't know about the FW thus.

At least, I'll get another one tomorrow, thanks for the excellent support of my store, Fillion ;)

Make sure you get the latest firmware which is 1.4

I got my PT-4000E since the last December. How can I know the firmware in it is 1.4? Do you know where to find the list of improvements (or the problems that it fixed)?

IQ22 -- Although the Frame Creation (FC or sometimes called Frame Insertion, FI) function "may" be broken on your AE4000, you may be mis-interpreting what it is supposed to do. FC was mainly introduced to take care of 1080p/24 (24 frames per second) "judder" that can occur in movies on Blu-Ray discs, most of which are mastered at 24 fps (and are a progressive, frame by frame signal = 1080p).

TV programs are usually broadcast as 1080i/60 (interlaced, 60 fps - in this case, fields per second). Using FC (or FI) on these signals may be "confusing" the processor chips since it is trying to insert frames between successive fields of an interlaced signal (2 fields = 1 frame). The assumption that I am making is that your STB (your FIOS HD box) is sending an interlaced signal (1080i) to your AE4000, and not a 1080p/30 (30 fps progressive) signal.

Part of your problem might be solved if your FIOS STB is capable of sending a 1080p video to your AE4000 (but it must be set to do so). Most HD TV tuners can only send a 1080i video signal to a display. The FC function may not be able to operate correctly with that kind of signal. Also, the AE4000 must be set to output your video at a 60 frame per second rate (twice the normal 30fps rate of a normal 1080p/30 video). I don't own an AE4000, so I don't have the detailed setup required.

If you are trying to use the FC function to eliminate motion blur on TV signals, I think there is another setup function that needs to be set in the AE4000 to perform that function. You need to double-check your owner's manual for that (I believe that there is one). In other words, getting the AE4000 set up to correctly handle a 1080 interlaced input signal may be the key to solving the problem. Also (from your prior post - Lost on ABC HD), your problem may be due to the signal source, itself, and not what the other parts of the video chain are doing.

Turning Off FC is certainly the solution to the frame skipping (dropping). That shuts off all "extra" video processing that may, or may not, add extra artifacts to the signal. FC is not a cure for all video ills, and was not intended to be a fix for poor video quality.

Fantastic response. Thank you very much.

I forgot to mention that I have my FiOS box going through an Onkyo TX-SR707 and after I read your post I went and looked at the settings...sure enough it was set to video passthrough. I did change it to 1080p output. So at least that setting is in a better place.

I watched some channels with just that setting changed and all looked good. When I turned FC back on to Mode 1 I got the skip again. After reading your (and others') response, I'm pretty sure the FC function isn't broken, it's just that I need to play around with my various settings more thoroughly...will do over the next few days.

Thanks all!

I got my PT-4000E since the last December. How can I know the firmware in it is 1.4? Do you know where to find the list of improvements (or the problems that it fixed)?

I'm referring to the Edge unit.

Hi guys,
Here's my situation. I bought a Panny AE4000 when they first came out (i have some posts early in this thread). I have it in a dedicated theater room that I use it for watching movies, TV, and PS3 & XBOX360.

The room:
1. Wall behind the screen is a matte dark red color
2. Sidewalls are a khaki color, sloped ceiling is white
You can see a pic in this thread:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1207543&highlight=modest+bonus+room

Equipment:
1. Panasonic PT-AE4000
Throw distance is about 14' I believe, and I have the projector to economy (low light) mode. I typically watch on Color1, which is not one of the brighter modes. I putzed with settings a little bit, but basically it is very near factory default settings. I have the framerate set to fast.
2. 92" Carada Brilliant White screen (1.4 gain)
3. My front row of seating puts your head at about 14' from the screen (right below the projector)...rear row is about 6' further back I think.

Here's the issue. When I watch movies and TV I have no problem. It does't matter if I'm watching standard def, HD TV, or Blu-ray...I'm always fine and trouble-free with movies. When I game however, my eyes start to burn and I get headaches after a while. I didn't notice it at first, but after some hours on Modern Warefare, it started to get to me.

At first I thought it was only because I was gaming for longer periods of time than I was watching movies or TV (2-3 hours roughly), but that's not the case. Sometimes I'll only play for an hour and I'll start to feel the onset of some burning in my eyes and a dull headache.

I've tried a couple things that haven't worked.
1. Ambient light- I read that watching in the dark causes eye strain, so I've tried setting my wall sconces on various levels of brightness...it doesn't seem to help.
2. Projector mode- I've tried different projector modes...normal, vivid, cinema, etc...can't seem to find one that mitigates the fatigue.
3. I've tried sitting in the back row, a bit further from the screen. I do find this more comfortable in general when gaming, as it's easier for me to see the whole screen without moving my eyes around as much.


A few things I've considered:
1. Is it possible that the games cause more fatigue because I'm focusing harder, not blinking as much, etc.?
2. Maybe since my walls and ceiling are a light color, I'm getting some kind of glare effect?
3. Gain on my screen is too high?- I thought that could be problem, but again I have no issues with movie content, and everything looks great to my guests and I in terms of brightness, etc.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to optimize my viewing for gaming. Any thoughts on projector settings, lighting, room treatments, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

I'm having knee surgery in a few weeks, and will likely be hunkered down for some lengthy gaming sessions during my recovery. I was hoping to get this sorted before then.

Thanks!

J RITT eye strain while gaming

sorry to hear of your gaming headaches, i have a theory and it is not the projector.

i too play alot of modern warfare but do not use my 4k for it i use a series 9 46" samsung local dimming led lcd and sit about 4 ft from the screen on a bean bag. The screen is on game mode so pretty bright image but with the fastest response =no lag ;-).

It is the game
modern warfare is the most intense AV experience i have ever had, it is so fast paced, requires so much concentration and information is coming from everywhere (eyes ears) at lightening speed. If i play for too long my neck stiffens up and is shot the next day.

What i have noticed is that your concentration levels are so high that you dont have time to realise that you are not moving, not really even your head or eyes, your just focused on the middle of your screen.

I am assuming your playing on line.

now i leave the room about every three games (whilst still in the lobby) and then come back. It is the physically leaving the room that alleviates and breaks the intensity and changes your focus.

Have you tried other games (perhaps not F1) that are less intense. I tried battlefield bad company 2 the other night and found it a whole lot less intense. Try the campaign mode of Uncharted 2 or something and see if the head aches are still there.




ALSO could you possibly check something for me and other owners of the 4k too. My fan seems to pulse and not be very smooth (not as smooth as my 3k was) which makes for inconsistent fan noise, which of course means it is very noticeable in quiet passages in movies.

Q; is your fan making a consistent uniform noise or pulsing?
really would like some help on this one-cheers

any reason why you would NOT set frame response to fast?

i just put mine on fast and left it?! lol. i play games and stream movies over pc mostly

I am also curious about this...I would think that if you set the frame response to fast, you might lose some processing ability....but that is just a guess.

MW2 is a VERY intense game. I find myself much more "relaxed" playing Battlefield: Bad Company 2 (not just because it's a much better game!). In any case, even on my 46" direct view LCD Samsung TV (LN46B750) I find it strains my eyes some.

By the way, probably ordering this projector tomorrow from Projectorpeople. Pretty excited about it. Coupled with a Seymour AV XD screen (perforated, black backing, tensioned electric), I hope I have a good experience!

*prays*

need some advice I have the money to buy a panasonic 54 "g20 or a Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector have been days trying to decide what you think.

need some advice I have the money to buy a panasonic 54 "g20 or a Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector have been days trying to decide what you think.

hey, that's a gimmee.

PROJECTOR, PROJECTOR, PROJECTOR, PROJECTOR, PROJECTOR, PROJECTOR!

you won't be sorry and there'll be no looking back...:D

westgate, your sig says you're 13' from an 84" screen. That's diagonal, I assume. How do you feel about that size? Too small? Wish it were bigger? Wish it were smaller? :)

westgate, your sig says you're 13' from an 84" screen. That's diagonal, I assume. How do you feel about that size? Too small? Wish it were bigger? Wish it were smaller? :)
used to be 108" for a few years but i had to move. due to the new space between the front speakers being a little over 6', only an 84"er would fit.

it's ok for now but i plan on putting in a larger (?) 2.39x1 screen eventually so at that time i'll have to rethink the whole setup.

edit-i don't have an ae4k, just an older 720p ptl500.

Kiwiguy and WilliamG,
Thanks for the feedback! I've had the same problem with other games as well..God of War III, Bad Company 2, and campaign in Uncharted 2 all had similar effect, although probably to a lesser extent. When I used to play these types of games on my 50" Samsung DLP, I never had any problems (unfortunately I sold this TV to a guy at work shortly after buying my projector...doh!). I also tried playing Modern Warfare on my 37" Panasonic S1 LCD in my living room, just to see if I had some kind of aversion to LCD's. I didn't have any problems on the smaller set. I'm at a bit of a loss. :o

I don't know whether it's the size of the screen, my eyes moving around so much, the amount of focus it requires to track everything, or what. It's frustrating, because one of my main goals with my system and this AE4000 was to use it for gaming.


now i leave the room about every three games (whilst still in the lobby) and then come back. It is the physically leaving the room that alleviates and breaks the intensity and changes your focus. I like that suggestion. A change of scenery every once in a while could give my eyes a rest.

ALSO could you possibly check something for me and other owners of the 4k too. My fan seems to pulse and not be very smooth (not as smooth as my 3k was) which makes for inconsistent fan noise, which of course means it is very noticeable in quiet passages in movies.

Q; is your fan making a consistent uniform noise or pulsing?
really would like some help on this one-cheers

To my knowledge my fan stays fairly constant/even. I definitely haven't noticed any pulsating or osculating.

Thanks again for the feedback...all other ideas and suggestions are welcome! :cool:

ALSO could you possibly check something for me and other owners of the 4k too. My fan seems to pulse and not be very smooth (not as smooth as my 3k was) which makes for inconsistent fan noise, which of course means it is very noticeable in quiet passages in movies.

Q; is your fan making a consistent uniform noise or pulsing?
really would like some help on this one-cheers

I have had both an AE3000 and an AE4000 in the same room, and the fans were not noticeably different in tone to me. I currently am doing most viewing in Eco mode and Cinema 1, and do not hear any pulsing when watching movie content. I will say that I do notice that if I select an inactive input source I notice the fans spin a little faster, even though the projector is displaying a black screen with just the source name in the upper right.

Perhaps you could take a peak at the service menu on your unit and see what it says, hit <power> <right> <up> <down> <up> <down> <enter> on the remote and then select the Self Check submenu. There you can view the status of all 4 fans and verify if they all say OK.

everyone is different. i game with modern warfare 2 for hours on end on my panny 4k without issue. in 16:9 mode my picture measures in at 108" diagonal and i sit about 8' away from the screen which is a diy wilsonart dw. can't wait for the new map packs. game on...

thanks for all the responses on the fan noise, and please keep them coming because if everyones fan noise is consistent and not pulsing i am going to have to get back in touch with panasonic as it upsets me everytime i use it. We all know the feeling when something in our hobby -cough- obsession isnt quite right and seems abnormal.

COD MW2 bring on the map packs i am definitely suffering from 'MAPATHY' -if you havent seen the vid search it in youtube. So so true.

thanks raster8 will try that tonight.

Just ordered my 4000! :D :D :D Can't wait!

do you guys know if the projector make more noise ceiling mounted or table mounted? or it's exactly the same?

Hello everyone!

Here's my setup:

Directv HR20-700 -------> Pioneer Elite VSX-84TSXi -----> PTAE4000U

I too am having "stuttering/jumping" during the NCAA tournament tonight (and other nights).

1) Turned Frame Creation off
2) Frame Response - tried normal, tried fast

Still jumps.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

How do you tell what firmware your pj has?

Thanks guys!

Does anyone have any other ideas?
********
How long is your cable run? Have you tried a direct DTV to AE4k hook up?

Steve

When I game however, my eyes start to burn and I get headaches after a while. I didn't notice it at first, but after some hours on Modern Warefare, it started to get to me.

I have a 61" DLP and when I played HL2 & Portal, I would get motion sickness. It would get so bad, I would just have to stop playing. It's never happened to me before. I think it is just sitting too close to a large screen. I would try to shrink the screen size, or just not play for long periods of time. I'm fine with Wii games, and some other PS3 games, but first person games seem to upset my stomach. Hope that helps.

do you guys know if the projector make more noise ceiling mounted or table mounted? or it's exactly the same?

shouldn't make any difference as far as i am aware.

still wondering if anyone else has a pulsing fan noise or whether the fan noise is consistent.

Originally Posted by J Ritt View Post
When I game however, my eyes start to burn and I get headaches after a while. I didn't notice it at first, but after some hours on Modern Warefare, it started to get to me.




shrinking the screen size sounds like a good avenue 'Portishead', and if it works 'jritt' can use the awesome lens memory to switch between movie size and gaming size screens. My playtv (ps3 hdtv add on) outputs a slightly smaller screen size and use the lens memory for it- works well

still wondering if anyone else has a pulsing fan noise or whether the fan noise is consistent.

I run in eco mode, projector is ceiling mounted, and my head is about six feet from the projector. I have noticed that the fan is louder for about the first ten seconds and then quiets down. I have never heard any change in the fan speed after those first few seconds. But I also have to point out that I never hear (or perhaps, a better word, notice) the fan running.

I really wonder if you might have a 'bad' fan in your projector. I have a cheap computer that I use for a Linux file server and the fan in the power supply is noisy when it is cold... (It still works so I have been reluctant to replace it.)

@all

Have seen the PTAE4K owners tend to "burn their lamps in" by putting the lamp mode as "normal" for a certain number of hours after they first purchase their unit, but then switch to eco mode.

Was wondering how long you all have set your lamp to "normal" to break in the lamp. As of the moment, have logged in 18 hours on normal lamp power using the normal picture mode.

Cheers!

Has anyone heard any rumors if panasonic will be coming out with a new PJ that will be able to handle 3/D? or some kind of firmware update for the 4000?:confused:

Anyone using this mount? Any thought?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3875&seq=1&format=2

Anyone using this mount? Any thought?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3875&seq=1&format=2

Most people find this a very good ceiling mount, interested in others who use it too.

Anyone using this mount? Any thought?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3875&seq=1&format=2
Not sure if it's important to you or not, but that mount doesn't seem to have cable management. I went with this mount (http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector_Ceiling_Mount_NPL_Series_p/npl.htm).

I don't have my projector yet (this week!), but I do have this mounted already and it's well made. Buy an extension if you need more than a couple of inches drop.

John

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=5466&seq=1&format=2

i use this. before i mounted the projector i grabbed hold of this unit and practically hung from it. i put on at least 70% of my body weight (i weigh 200 lbs) and it didn't budge. i'm fairly confident it would hold my entire weight and suspend my body from it completely. i did this because i wanted to really put it to the test since some have told me to ONLY go with the expensive models and that my "shi*" would fall off. and i also knew the svs sub would put this to the test as the low tones flex my ceiling rafters.:eek:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e139/bizill75/IMG_3464.jpg

Thanks for the replies! It looks like that one Bizill posted a picture of has cable management AND is dirt cheap. I will be getting it I believe! J4ydubs, why is yours so expensive?

I do wonder how this will do with a subwoofer nearby! Might be interesting!

Go to the Option menu and the item HDMI Signal Level, try either Normal or Expand.

Then set your video levels with the Auto Adjust in the Waveform Monitor and they should get you a much better signal that you can then manually tweak to you liking. If the Auto Adjust does not get even close, go back and try the other HDMI signal level and redo the Auto Adjust again.

As an update, if you need to have your contrast and/or brightness at >+-10 to get a good image, then you likely have the HDMI Signal Level setting incorrect, so try the other setting and redo the Auto Adjust and if you are in the ballpark the brightness/contrast should be closer to 0, <+-5 would be typical in my experience.

You just need to make sure that HDMI levels match at both ends. If you set your popcorn to 16-235 then set yuor Panny to HDMI normal (recommended). If your Popcorn is set to 0-255, Panny should be set to Enhanced HDMI
Wojtek

You are not losing anything because their was nothing their to start with. The video in encoded with the black bars top and bottom, they use up part of the 1080 lines. Actually the zoom method does the least to video to get 2.35. When you use a lense you are stretching out the video creating pixels that were never their to start with so they are made up. The only advantage that the lense has is some extra light out put, how much you really gain seems to be up in the air....

The real advantage of the lens over zooming would be clearly visible with an anamorphic DVD. In such case the lens would horizontally expand anamorphic image thus providing higher resolution. Fortunately or unfortunately ;) BluRay standard does not support anamorphic material....
Wojtek

Has anyone heard any rumors if panasonic will be coming out with a new PJ that will be able to handle 3/D? or some kind of firmware update for the 4000?:confused:

anyone?

I have not seen the Panasonic has anounced their 3D projectors yet. I don't think we are going to get in firmware for the 4000.

J4ydubs, why is yours so expensive?

I wouldn't call $44 expensive, but it is $20 more than the Monoprice one. The Monoprice bracket was on my list, but the MountDirect one looked more finished and sturdy than the Monoprice one. I'm sure the Monoprice one is just fine though. The mount direct one also has a quick release and while I doubt I'll use that much (probably for outdoor projecting) it will come in handy when I do.

John

You just need to make sure that HDMI levels match at both ends. If you set your popcorn to 16-235 then set yuor Panny to HDMI normal (recommended). If your Popcorn is set to 0-255, Panny should be set to Enhanced HDMI
Wojtek

Wojtek you are indeed correct, but most users will have a hard time knowing what mix of settings are correct for their devices. The manufacturees have done a great disservice to the consumer by writing the same thing different ways, most will have no idea what to set them to:


Actual________________0-255_______16-235
Panasonic AE4000 ______Enhanced____Normal
WD TV Live____________RGB High____RGB Low


So in the above setup most people would be unlikely to know that Normal=RGB Low and Enhanced=RGB High.

This is the type of thing I see when visiting a people who just built a new HT and want to show it off and the black crush is so huge because the levels are mismatched. I just wanted to point out that looking at the levels reported in the Panasonic is an easy way to tell that things were amiss, so that they could be properly corrected by matching the source to the display.

Has anyone that ceiling mounted a projector have any vibration issues coming from the floor above? I just mounted a wood plate to the joists in our living room and noticed you can feel the vibrations of the washer/dryer on the board.

I have the monoprice setup and haven't mounted that yet but I'm sure the vibration would travel through. How about some rubber grommets between the PJ mount bracket and the board? Any other affordable isolation tricks? :)

Never noticed any vibration from washer/dryer located on the first floor. But every house is different. Rubber grommets can certainly help.

Just wanted to point out one problem in my situation in case you can do something about it: When kids are jumping and running upstairs in the family room area, the projector vibrates. You can imagine how annoying it becomes when the image jumps up and down.

jjmbxkb,

Just read your post about the vibration issue with the kids jumping around. I have a similar situation my projectors is currently on a stand in the middle of the room I would like to ceiling mount.(free up some room) I have been concerned about the vibration shorting the bulb life. Did you do anything special to reduce the vibration? (Vitals 120"D, projector~13’, room length 21' width 16') I have look at some of the anti vibration mounts on line, but I think I can make something to help reduce the vibration. Anyone else have some thoughts would love to here them..

I wouldn't call $44 expensive, but it is $20 more than the Monoprice one. The Monoprice bracket was on my list, but the MountDirect one looked more finished and sturdy than the Monoprice one. I'm sure the Monoprice one is just fine though. The mount direct one also has a quick release and while I doubt I'll use that much (probably for outdoor projecting) it will come in handy when I do.

John

Wow I totally misread the price of the projector mount. I thought it said $85, not $45. It was "SAVE" $85 (lol).

That mount does look nice.

http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector_Ceiling_Mount_NPL_Series_p/npl.htm?1=1&CartID=1

I'm just not sure if I need it lower or not for my needs? The projector will be about 11' away from ~100" 16:9 diagonal screen with 8' tall ceilings. How will I know if I need the extension piece or not?

I'm just not sure if I need it lower or not for my needs? The projector will be about 11' away from ~100" 16:9 diagonal screen with 8' tall ceilings. How will I know if I need the extension piece or not?

If you want to use the zoom feature to switch between 16:9 and 2.35, the centerline of the lens of AE4000 needs to be below the top of the screen. There have been numerous posts about the reason for this.

shrinking the screen size sounds like a good avenue 'Portishead', and if it works 'jritt' can use the awesome lens memory to switch between movie size and gaming size screens. My playtv (ps3 hdtv add on) outputs a slightly smaller screen size and use the lens memory for it- works well

Great idea guys...I may have to give that a try. I disconnected my PS3 from my theater and moved it to a downstairs 37" Panasonic S1 LCD. I played for quite a few hours yesterday, and my eyes seem to be fine. I'll try shrinking the screen size upstairs and see how it works. My only other option may be to just go downstairs when I want to hunker down for a long gaming session. I guess the only other options would be either a dedicated gaming TV in the theater, or a PS3 downstairs for convenience. I'm sure my wife would be thrilled with both of those ideas.:p

Thanks again for the suggestions.:)

If you want to use the zoom feature to switch between 16:9 and 2.35, the centerline of the lens of AE4000 needs to be below the top of the screen. There have been numerous posts about the reason for this.


Thanks but could please you summarize to save us reading all 4500+ posts looking for the info? :)

If you want to use the zoom feature to switch between 16:9 and 2.35, the centerline of the lens of AE4000 needs to be below the top of the screen. There have been numerous posts about the reason for this.

I realize. However, I specifically mentioned I'll be using a 16:9 screen. Therefore my above post still stands! :)

Thanks but could please you summarize to save us reading all 4500+ posts looking for the info? :)

It's all to do with the laws of physics and optics. Read this post below:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17901960&highlight=#post17901960

There are probably another hundred posts discussing this topic.

Anyone using this mount? Any thought?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3875&seq=1&format=2

I am using this with my AE-4000 and find it to be adequate but not outstanding in any way. The documentation is terrible but there is a video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eSUfb08fes) that shows you everything you need to know to install it.

I think I would have been happier with the 44lb model.

Question,

Does this projector have Blanking mask controls, like a CRT projector?

Reason I ask is I have a 2:1 screen. I did this long ago because when 16:9 format was argued, the film group was saying 2:1 ratio.

Anyway I’m abit more than 16:9 and a little under 2:35 and the ability to zoom and crop would be a solution for my screen.

Thanks for any help on this matter.

I am using this with my AE-4000 and find it to be adequate but not outstanding in any way. The documentation is terrible but there is a video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eSUfb08fes) that shows you everything you need to know to install it.

I think I would have been happier with the 44lb model.

Thanks for that link. I'm just trying to decide now if a more flush mount will work with just a 16:9 screen (no need for memory adjustment to 2:35:1).... How the heck do I figure that out?! :confused:

Question,

Does this projector have Blanking mask controls, like a CRT projector?

Reason I ask is I have a 2:1 screen. I did this long ago because when 16:9 format was argued, the film group was saying 2:1 ratio.

Anyway I’m abit more than 16:9 and a little under 2:35 and the ability to zoom and crop would be a solution for my screen.

Thanks for any help on this matter.

It has an electronic masking, just makes the mask area black, doesn't actually block the light.

Thanks for that link. I'm just trying to decide now if a more flush mount will work with just a 16:9 screen (no need for memory adjustment to 2:35:1).... How the heck do I figure that out?! :confused:

Read the manuals. There is a link to them in the first post of this thread.

Is it variable Vert and Horz? Can I mask the image to fit my screen format i.e. 2:1?

Not sure if it's important to you or not, but that mount doesn't seem to have cable management. I went with this mount (http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector_Ceiling_Mount_NPL_Series_p/npl.htm).

I don't have my projector yet (this week!), but I do have this mounted already and it's well made. Buy an extension if you need more than a couple of inches drop.

John

How does the cable management work with this mount? I'm about to get a mount and I like this one but the cable management system it has confuses me. I mean, it looks like the cables are supposed to come out of the ceiling and drop right down through the mount (i.e. there would be a hole directly over the mount and the cables would come down through "part A" of the mount... in other words, you would not see any cables come out of the ceiling anywhere). Is that right? If so, I'm confused about how one would route the power cable given the fact that there would be an outlet up there somewhere.

I haven't put up drywall yet, or routed any projector cables. I'm just trying to figure out where everything should go. This projector will be hanging down right in the middle of a theater/game room so I want to have the minimum amount of wires visible as possible.

jjmbxkb,

Just read your post about the vibration issue with the kids jumping around. I have a similar situation my projectors is currently on a stand in the middle of the room I would like to ceiling mount.(free up some room) I have been concerned about the vibration shorting the bulb life. Did you do anything special to reduce the vibration? (Vitals 120"D, projector~13’, room length 21' width 16') I have look at some of the anti vibration mounts on line, but I think I can make something to help reduce the vibration. Anyone else have some thoughts would love to here them..

I didn't do anything to cut down the vibration, other than telling the kids no running. I guess a full-blown sound proofing construction would be the utimate solution.

Meanwhile, I'm trying to warn people and find out if there are good suggestions.

This thread has strengthened my resolve to not have kids. Ever. :)

In other seriousness (seriously), would it help you guys with kids to have some form of insulating material in and around the mount? Like an "insulating mat" or something around the projector, so that any vibration is greatly lessened? I sort of picture people Dynamatting their ceiling around the mount. :D

I sort of picture people Dynamatting their ceiling around the mount. :D

Genius! :D

In my case I'm not worried about vibrations causing tempory PQ problems. We can just do laundry at other times. I just don't want vibrations/rattling to affect the inner workings of the PJ. My townhouse wasn't built as sturdy as I'd like and the only area I can mount the projector is almost directly under the laundry area.

I'm probably going to take the plate down and put some rubber between it and the ceiling. Plus I'll add the grommets on the mount.

How does the cable management work with this mount? I'm about to get a mount and I like this one but the cable management system it has confuses me. I mean, it looks like the cables are supposed to come out of the ceiling and drop right down through the mount (i.e. there would be a hole directly over the mount and the cables would come down through "part A" of the mount... in other words, you would not see any cables come out of the ceiling anywhere). Is that right? If so, I'm confused about how one would route the power cable given the fact that there would be an outlet up there somewhere.

Where are you going to have the power outlet? Above the ceiling or do you plan have it flush (exposed) in the drywall?

Part A (the part that mounts to you ceiling) just has a hole in the center of it the same size as the 1.5" pipe. If you want to hide everything, you just drill a hole right though the center and drop the cabling down the center hole and through the pipe.

If you are going to mount the outlet exposed, then you'll need to have the power cable outside the cable management. However, if you're going to be dropping the projector down (11-18") then the adjustable extension they sell will work for you. It has an opening in the pipe right below the top (where it screws into part A) that would let you pull the power through the opening and still route the rest of the cables though the center hole. It's kinda hard to explain and the directions never mention the opening in the extension pipe, but it's there.

I have a drop ceiling, so I'm routing all the cabling through the pipe and center of the mount. All the cabling will be hidden except where it connects to the projector.

John

I'm just not sure if I need it lower or not for my needs? The projector will be about 11' away from ~100" 16:9 diagonal screen with 8' tall ceilings. How will I know if I need the extension piece or not?
I'm kinda in the same boat. I decided to go with a 16:9 screen, so I'm thinking I can get away with the projector being mounted closer to the ceiling. I bought the 11-18" extension, but if I can get away with a lesser drop, I will be doing that. I'm hoping the vertical shifting has some decent play. I'll probably try a 6 or 8" pipe.

One nice thing about this mount is that the extension is just a 1.5" NPL threaded (male on both ends) pipe. It should be fairly easy to find in a hardware store. I'm thinking I wasted $12 on the adjustable piping (it is well designed and made), but I should be able to sell it or something. One caution with the adjustable pipe. You won't be able to use the the finishing plate (part B) because the adjustable pipe uses a larger diameter pipe for the top portion. I guess you could mount it with the smaller (1.5") piece on the top, but it's not really designed for that kind of mounting.

John

... I just don't want vibrations/rattling to affect the inner workings of the PJ.
...

I see. I didn't even think about that. Now I'm really worried ....

I do have insulation (R30 I believe) throughout the ceilings in the basement, hopefully that dampens most if not all smaller vibrations.

If it's not too much, do you mind showing a picture what you will do? Thanks.

Is it variable Vert and Horz? Can I mask the image to fit my screen format i.e. 2:1?

It has both vertical and horizontal masking. And I believe they should have enough range to hide enough of the sides of the scope image, and certainly enough of the top and bottom of the 16:9 image, so that they fit into your 2.1 screen.

But, are you sure that's what you want to do? For a scope movie, you are crop out almost 15% of the image?

I'm kinda in the same boat. I decided to go with a 16:9 screen, so I'm thinking I can get away with the projector being mounted closer to the ceiling. I bought the 11-18" extension, but if I can get away with a lesser drop, I will be doing that. I'm hoping the vertical shifting has some decent play. I'll probably try a 6 or 8" pipe.

John

Hi, J4yDubs, and WillamG: If you don't do CIH, the max vertical shift is 100% off center from the screen. For a 100" diagonal 16:9 screen (49" tall), the highest you can position the center of the projector lens is 49" from the CENTER of the screen, or 24.5" from the image area top. For an 8' ceiling, you may not even need an extension pole, when you consider the thickness of the mount itself, the distance from projector box top to the center of the lens, and the height you plan to mount your screen.

BTW, there is a way to go scope screen with a flush ceiling mount. It will involve a Constant Image Area (CIA) setup with dual screens. I know this sounds crazy and costly, but I just couldn't resist the urge to point it out as an option for those who prefer to hide their projectors as much as possible, but also want to have the immersive experience of the 2.35:1 screen. There are also other benefits with this setup.

Thanks a lot.

I am glad I went 16x9 for several reasons. I game and do some HTPC and watch hockey and other HD programming which is all 16x9. MAny movies today are in fact 16x9. I watched Broken Embraces and it had subtitles that would conflict with CIH screens and puts them in the masking/bottom bar area. If you only watch movies on the projector I would say CIH, is the way to go, but if you do even 1/3 of your viewing of sources in 16x9 then I would recommend 16x9. I don't mask the bars, but like my RPTV, I block them out like I do with background noises or a noisy air conditioner.

Thanks for the reply, jjmbxkb. I really appreciate that. Looks like I'll be able to flush mount.

The manual does say, though, that for the best picture you want it to be directly in the center of the screen. How much picture "degradation" is there by having the projector above the screen?

Hi, WilliamG: That is certainly the tradeoff and could be a reason to use some extension to avoid max lens shift. My guess is for most installations, lens shift does not introduce noticeable distortion, otherwise the positioning adavantage of LCD projectors because of lens shift would not have been cited everywhere as an advantage.

I found the following recent thread on this. It kind of compares keystoning and lens shift: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18013242. Among the posters on that thread, I think CT_Wiebe frequents this thread. As usual, I found his post knowledge and insightful. Hopefully he sees this and answers your question. Or you can PM him. BTW, he said he uses almost max lens shift with his current projector. I hope he meant this particular model. There is also the point that manufacturers usually set the lens shift limit way below the actual range to minimize picture degradation.

Thanks very much.

Thank you once again for the reply. I've learned a ton since deciding to go the projector route. :)

I am glad I went 16x9 for several reasons. I game and do some HTPC and watch hockey and other HD programming which is all 16x9. MAny movies today are in fact 16x9. I watched Broken Embraces and it had subtitles that would conflict with CIH screens and puts them in the masking/bottom bar area. If you only watch movies on the projector I would say CIH, is the way to go, but if you do even 1/3 of your viewing of sources in 16x9 then I would recommend 16x9. I don't mask the bars, but like my RPTV, I block them out like I do with background noises or a noisy air conditioner.

Hi, Hughmc:

There is another potential development that could increase the importance of the 16:9 screen. I think if the 3D push has any leg, it's going to be in the area of 3D sports broadcast, which will be in 16:9 format.

It utilimately depends on viewing preferences and priorities. Just as an option, with the zoom memory function on this projector, there is a way get the best of both worlds, plus the benefit of full masking for aspect ratios and flush ceiling mount.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by azgard
Is it variable Vert and Horz? Can I mask the image to fit my screen format i.e. 2:1?

It has both vertical and horizontal masking. And I believe they should have enough range to hide enough of the sides of the scope image, and certainly enough of the top and bottom of the 16:9 image, so that they fit into your 2.1 screen.

But, are you sure that's what you want to do? For a scope movie, you are crop out almost 15% of the image?





It's my only option at this point. But will give the best of both worlds.

Question?

Is there a mask memory? i.e. if I zoom to fit scope or 16:9, and various aspect ratios the mask will need to be different in each case.
Will the mask have a memory same as the zoom memory or will I manualy have to crop it for each change of aspect ratio?

Thanks

Where are you going to have the power outlet? Above the ceiling or do you plan have it flush (exposed) in the drywall?

I guess that's what I'm asking you guys. What do most people do with mounts like this when it comes to the electrical outlet? I'm not using a drop ceiling. I assume it's against code to mount the electrical outlet up in the ceiling (above the drywall), considering it is a basement so I can't get access to it by going into an attic or something. Maybe people come up with some way to still get access to it if they take the mount down? I'm having a hard time seeing a good way to make use of the cable management feature, when it comes to the power cord.... or do most mounts have the type of cable management feature that has a hole at the top of the pipe so your outlets/wall plates would be flush with the ceiling and thus most people don't worry about trying to hide the outlet?

Oh, and I most likely won't be using that extension pipe you mention.

Question?

Is there a mask memory? i.e. if I zoom to fit scope or 16:9, and various aspect ratios the mask will need to be different in each case.
Will the mask have a memory same as the zoom memory or will I manualy have to crop it for each change of aspect ratio?

Thanks

The mask settings are part of the lens memories. Set them once, and you can load them up automatically.

Wojtek you are indeed correct, but most users will have a hard time knowing what mix of settings are correct for their devices. The manufacturees have done a great disservice to the consumer by writing the same thing different ways, most will have no idea what to set them to:


Actual________________0-255_______16-235
Panasonic AE4000 ______Enhanced____Normal
WD TV Live____________RGB High____RGB Low


So in the above setup most people would be unlikely to know that Normal=RGB Low and Enhanced=RGB High.

This is the type of thing I see when visiting a people who just built a new HT and want to show it off and the black crush is so huge because the levels are mismatched. I just wanted to point out that looking at the levels reported in the Panasonic is an easy way to tell that things were amiss, so that they could be properly corrected by matching the source to the display.

What are we talking about here? I am not following, maybe I missed something? There are HDMI settings on the AE4000, enhanced and normal, that should be set according to the source feeding it? Please clarify.

Thanks.

The mask settings are part of the lens memories. Set them once, and you can load them up automatically.

This is an excellent solution. I'm surprised no other co is offering a mask/ lens memory. I'd much rather see less light with "real resolution" than an interpolated scale with anamorphic lens.

Only wish this was offered as a dlp rather then LCD, I'd prefer the sharper dlp image.

This is an excellent solution. I'm surprised no other co is offering a mask/ lens memory. I'd much rather see less light with "real resolution" than an interpolated scale with anamorphic lens.

Only wish this was offered as a dlp rather then LCD, I'd prefer the sharper dlp image.

I have been a DLP guy for quite sometime and currently own 720p DLP Sharp projectors, XV-Z3000 and XV-Z12000. The AE4000 is sharper than both.

I find the 4K sharper than my previous DLP projector as well.

I have been a DLP guy for quite sometime and currently own 720p DLP Sharp projectors, XV-Z3000 and XV-Z12000. The AE4000 is sharper than both.

This should be expected, as 720p is much lower that 1080p. But DLP technology is much sharper than LCD or LcoS.

I'd love to tell you how sharp I find my 4000, but right now it's on a FedEx truck coming from Florida, and I'm in Seattle. Talk about opposite ends of the country!

This thread has strengthened my resolve to not have kids. Ever. :)



... I've learned a ton since deciding to go the projector route. :)

I hope that "ton" does not include the point about kids. Cannot be responsible for that big a decision in life. :)

This should be expected, as 720p is much lower that 1080p. But DLP technology is much sharper than LCD or LcoS.

Partly true. I had the JVC RS2 which is a 1080p, albeit a LCOS technology, for a short period of time and I find the Sharp 720p DLP was sharper than the JVC.

jjmbxkb wrote

The mask settings are part of the lens memories. Set them once, and you can load them up automatically.

I have recently visited two video shops to see this 235:1 option in person. Neither shop could demonstrate because they did not even know it was an option on the 4000.

I played with the remote a bit and saw there is a lens memory page with several settings, I suppose that could be it and further think that I would have to set it somehow. then it would just be the case of selecting memory lens one or two to switch between 235:1 and 16:9 material.

I still cannot fathom how if I were to lower a 235:1 screen in front of a 16:9 how when the image is formatted it will not be spilling off in one form or another and visa versa.

I have recently visited two video shops to see this 235:1 option in person. Neither shop could demonstrate because they did not even know it was an option on the 4000.

I played with the remote a bit and saw there is a lens memory page with several settings, I suppose that could be it and further think that I would have to set it somehow. then it would just be the case of selecting memory lens one or two to switch between 235:1 and 16:9 material.

I still cannot fathom how if I were to lower a 235:1 screen in front of a 16:9 how when the image is formatted it will not be spilling off in one form or another and visa versa.

lens memory, set up both 16x9 and 2.35:1

the idea is that the black bars will spill off the top and bottom of the 2.35:1 screen. while with a 16x9 u will be filling a good deal of the screens top and bottom with bars.

...
I still cannot fathom how if I were to lower a 235:1 screen in front of a 16:9 how when the image is formatted it will not be spilling off in one form or another and visa versa.

Hi, kiwi2000: I think it's a valid concern, but my experience shows it shouldn't be a problem.

To drop a 235:1 screen in front of your 16:9 96" fixed frame, you may have light spillover at the bottom onto the underlying 16:9 screen, depending on the size of the scope screen, and how low you want to drop it. But that light will be part of the bottom black bar.

I have the "vise versa" setup, with a fixed scope screen, and a 16:9 screen electric drop down, There is no light spillover whatsoever, since the image fills up the entire screen. The following are some pictures (sorry for my picture taking skills and/or the point-and-shoot camera):

The 115" fixed frame scope screen (I think it was Gran Torino being played):

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_1878.jpg

While we are at it, a screen shot of State Of Play (Surprisingly good movie):

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2181.jpg

Amadus:

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2090.jpg

Pitch Black (Or should it be called "The Origin of Riddick"?)

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2091.jpg

Now, the electric drop down, 106" 16:9:

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2191.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2194.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2196.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_2201.jpg

Chicago:

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/2010-03011.jpg

Fargo (A slow fast movie):

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_1953.jpg

Before The Devil Knows You Are Dead:b

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_1973.jpg

The Oscar night (In the brightest Dynamic mode):

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_1982.jpg

The Wizard Of OZ (4:3 movie on the 16:9 screen):

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/jjmbxkb/IMG_1955.jpg

I was planning to use theater style curtains to cover the sides of the scope screen, but don't see the need for it after actual viewing. They don't bother me or any of my guests at all. They at least feel much darker than what the pictures show, maybe because your eyes are just drawn into the images on the 16:9 screen and what's happening in the movie. Of course, everyone has different priorities and preferences. BTW, I have dark screen wall, light colored ceilings and side walls, and we sit 15' away.

In your case, the scope drops down and should cover the top and the entire width of the 16:9 fixed frame. Speaking for myself, I know I won't notice part of the bottom bar landing on the 16:9 screen during movie sessions.

I see. I didn't even think about that. Now I'm really worried ....

I do have insulation (R30 I believe) throughout the ceilings in the basement, hopefully that dampens most if not all smaller vibrations.



I wouldn’t worry about it too much…just think how much vibration your sub puts on everything in the room (including the projector).

Sometimes when my subs really crank up, I can’t tell whether the picture shimmy is caused by the projector vibrating or my skull rattling. :D

Hi, ziptiecowboy: Excellent point.

BTW, what brand/model are your dual subs? What about your speakers?

Thanks.

has this projector ever been offered with a free bulb or has it always been the 2yr extend warrenty?

Thanks

Hi, ziptiecowboy: Excellent point.

BTW, what brand/model are your dual subs? What about your speakers?

Thanks.

Subs are Def Tech PF1500’s. Mains are BP30’s, center CLR2000 and Surrounds are BPX’s all driven by Adcom amps (GFA5500 & 5503). I've had 'em since 1997.

Hi All,

Thinking of pulling the trigger on the AE4000 replacing my PEAX-100U. I'm going for a 2.35:1 110" high contrast Grey screen and only using the projector for those sized movies. The screen will be in front of a 58" plasma which I will be watching other sized content like 4x3 or 16x9 ratio images when the projector is not in use. My questions being is do I use and anamorphic lens with the AE4000 as I do and don't with the 100U? Or will the AE4000 give me very good picture quality without the added lens when using this screen? It's doesn't seem to me that the AE4000 is really increasing the use of the lcd panels as I am with the 100u using the lens to stretch the image. Or is it? Is the AE4000 just zooming the image and still displaying the black bars at the top and bottom thus you can see them in say your masking area of the screen or spilling out off the picture edge? Any thoughts on if I'm going to be happy with this projector change besides that it does have 1080p vs 720p?

Thanks,
Chris

I'd love to tell you how sharp I find my 4000, but right now it's on a FedEx truck coming from Florida, and I'm in Seattle. Talk about opposite ends of the country!

I see you went with PP ...Should have ordered from Visual Apex located up in your neck of the woods.

I know how you feel as I ordered from Visual Apex and I'm in NYC.

I could have went with PP but felt the customer service was a tad better with VA via email and phone conversations I had with both.

Subs are Def Tech PF1500’s. Mains are BP30’s, center CLR2000 and Surrounds are BPX’s all driven by Adcom amps (GFA5500 & 5503). I've had 'em since 1997.

Really nice! What's great about speakes is that investment in them will last a long time, as they don't change as much as in the video world.

Got the projector today (1 week from WA to PA). I wasn't able to do much tonight because I had to go to my kids school after work, but I did get it mounted and hung. I'm actually OK with how far it's hanging down now (about 11"), but I still might shorten than up a bit. Not sure yet.

The cabling is already run through the ceiling, but I still need to drop it down the wall. I have to remove my 57" RPTV and the component rack (got a new one) and then I'll hook everything up and test it out. I'll probably try to get some of that done tomorrow after work.

Once I get it working, I'll finalize on the screen (material and size) and order it. I'm thinking 106"-120" 16:9 fixed mount (Elite probably). I'm leaning toward 110", but I want to project 120" and see what it looks like. I'm limited in my width, but I'll play around a bit and see what works.

Very excited to turn it on!

John

Just ordered AE4000 –
My dedicated theater room dimensions – 17’9” x 14’6” Ceiling height – 7’8” :(
Seating is likely ~15’0 from the screen Wall. Side wall & ceiling painted dark burgundy(Flat) & screen wall is flat black.(Full light control)-Two panel doors at the entrance(6’)
*80% Movies & 20% HD(Dish)
Planning to get an Oppo-BDP83 soon......
Throw distance likely 13’-14’(where I have metal plates installed since it’s all Metal studs), If required can go upto 16’.
Seating ~ 15’
I’m inclining towards a 2:35 screen (CIH)
Looking to hear your recommendations........
Screen size?
Optimum height from the ceiling to hang the Screen to have a comfortable viewing?
Given the Ceiling height limitations Is there anything I need to be concerned on the projector mount?
Any Mount & Screen recommendations ?(something in the Carada price range)?

Ok just got done doing a basement for a client based on my set up at my house. I have a Panny AE 2000 he just bought the new AE4000.

As per reading ppls instructions on how to do lens memory for 16:9 and 2.34:1 here is the problem.. I still see black bars !! Am I missing a step. I will run through it with steps provided. As per page 50, post 1478
Step 1, level PJ.

Step 2 Display some 16:9 content with bright edges. Zoom to the height of the screen. Use manual lens shift to center. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0339.jpg

Step 3 Display some 2.35 content with bright edges. Zoom to fill the width of the screen. In the LENS MEMORY menu, adjust V-AREA POSITION to center the image vertically on the screen. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0338.jpg

That's the display and now comes the zoom to fill width and using V-position to center

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0341.jpg

As you can see there still is black space above and below. Now in aspect ratio I did leave this at 16:9 for both steps. BUT.. If I choose ZOOM aspect when I do the 2:35 step 3 it fills out the entire screen.

My client and I both have the exact same screen (4ft by 9ft) as I made both from drywall and I use a Home Theater Brothers anamorphic lens to do my stretch to fill up the entire screen.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Screen1072.jpg

So why am I still getting black areas above and below picture after I followed the steps?

Thanks for help

I believe with a 120" screen you should be fine. If you try to go larger, it probably won't work. Also, you will need to put the projector at its minimum throw distance in order to gets its brightest picture. The last thing you need to make sure is that no light is shinning directly on the screen. This will ruin all but the brightest of projectors.

As you can see there still is black space above and below. Now in aspect ratio I did leave this at 16:9 for both steps. BUT.. If I choose ZOOM aspect when I do the 2:35 step 3 it fills out the entire screen.
...I use a Home Theater Brothers anamorphic lens to do my stretch to fill up the entire screen.


Does your client's setup also use an anamorphic lens? Look at the third image. Doesn't it look "wrong" to you? Everyone looks like they've been stepped on and squished.

An anamorphic lens compresses the image vertically. This has to be counteracted with a vertical stretch of the image by the projector. A normal 16:9 ratio setting is not appropriate when you are using an anamorphic lens. Zoom isn't right either as then you will lose picture on the sides. Try V-FIT. This will stretch the image vertically, get rid of the letterboxing, and allow the anamorphic lens to do its job. The image aspect should look correct and should fill the screen vertically.

Hopefully your screen isn't exactly 9 feet by 4 feet, as that is only a 2.25:1 ratio and you will get pillars when you fill the screen vertically. Hopefully it's more like 9' 5" by 4'.

I have a set up question. I am going to mount a 130 inch 2.35:1 Firehawk G3 screen. When I use the calculator I have the settings for 16:9. So, my PJ is mounted at approx 13' 7". I use the zoom to fill the 2.35:1 screen correct?

In other words, I don't calculate for a 130" screen because I am stretching the picture for 2.35:1.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE4000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

set the vertical image for my screen height of 51"

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Ok just got done doing a basement for a client based on my set up at my house. I have a Panny AE 2000 he just bought the new AE4000.

As per reading ppls instructions on how to do lens memory for 16:9 and 2.34:1 here is the problem.. I still see black bars !! Am I missing a step. I will run through it with steps provided. As per page 50, post 1478
Step 1, level PJ.

Step 2 Display some 16:9 content with bright edges. Zoom to the height of the screen. Use manual lens shift to center. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0339.jpg

Step 3 Display some 2.35 content with bright edges. Zoom to fill the width of the screen. In the LENS MEMORY menu, adjust V-AREA POSITION to center the image vertically on the screen. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0338.jpg

That's the display and now comes the zoom to fill width and using V-position to center

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0341.jpg

As you can see there still is black space above and below. Now in aspect ratio I did leave this at 16:9 for both steps. BUT.. If I choose ZOOM aspect when I do the 2:35 step 3 it fills out the entire screen.

My client and I both have the exact same screen (4ft by 9ft) as I made both from drywall and I use a Home Theater Brothers anamorphic lens to do my stretch to fill up the entire screen.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Screen1072.jpg

So why am I still getting black areas above and below picture after I followed the steps?

Thanks for help

The setup procedure described in the post is for using the AE4000 WITHOUT an anamorphic lens! You simply 'zoom' the picture out to fill the screen with 2:35 content. The black bars will spill outside of the screen area. (That is the biggest selling point of the AE4000 is its ability to do CIH projection with a lens!)


As has already been pointed out, your 4' X 9' screen is 2.25 to 1. You will have small black bars on the screen when you project 2.35 material on that size screen using the zoom method!

No the client doesn't have a lens as that is why he bought the 4000 as it will do the 2.35 without the lens.

I just followed what the one guy posted, and I copied the rules.

Sorry screen hiegth is 46 by 9ft. I just tell ppl its 4ft. I know its 46 x 2.35= 108.

So like I said I have know idea why I'm getting back bars. I hung the pj inside the min/max that panasonic has for distance. About 15 feet from screen.

Help. !

No the client doesn't have a lens as that is why he bought the 4000 as it will do the 2.35 without the lens.

I just followed what the one guy posted, and I copied the rules.

Sorry screen hiegth is 46 by 9ft. I just tell ppl its 4ft. I know its 46 x 2.35= 108.

So like I said I have know idea why I'm getting back bars. I hung the pj inside the min/max that panasonic has for distance. About 15 feet from screen.

Help. !

Its hard to tell anything in your pictures because it is dark and you can't tell where the screen starts and stops. But when showing 2.35 yes you will still have black bars top and bottom, but they are projected off the screen if that is what you are talking about. The zoom doesn't eliminate the bars, just moves them to above and below the sreen.

thats what i was thinking as well. it looks as if he didnt zoom it nearly enough.

black bars should spill off the top and bottom of the screen in 2.35:1 mode

i think he messed up step 3

Step 3 Display some 2.35 content with bright edges. Zoom to fill the width of the screen. In the LENS MEMORY menu, adjust V-AREA POSITION to center the image vertically on the screen. Adjust Zoom/Focus and save in lens memory.

obviously you ran out of zoom (projector needs to be moved in the room) or you stopped short of filling the width of the screen

Hi All,

Thinking of pulling the trigger on the AE4000 replacing my PEAX-100U. I'm going for a 2.35:1 110" high contrast Grey screen and only using the projector for those sized movies. The screen will be in front of a 58" plasma ...

Thanks,
Chris

What screen are you looking at?
I haven't seen any reasonably priced electric 2.35 screens.

No the client doesn't have a lens as that is why he bought the 4000 as it will do the 2.35 without the lens.


The third picture:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0341.jpg

looks squished to me. That's usually what happens when you aren't using the right aspect ratio. Is the disk itself anamorphic? If it isn't then it would explain the aspect mismatch.

In the picture it looks like the sides of the image are all the way to the edge of the screen. If that's correct then you have the zoom level right. I'm thinking that if you figure out what's wrong with the aspect then your other problem will go away.

You might find it easier to make these adjustment with a test image rather than an actual movie. DVE has several that show proper placement for 16:9 and 2.35:1 images along with circles that will show when the aspect is correct. You can probably find similar images online somewhere.

Well I got my 4000 in a few days ago. I put it on top the entertainment center and shot it on the wall, just to see what it would look like. I put in a DVD and my mouth was open, then I put in a blu-ray and my mouth hit the floor. I was completely stunned at the PQ.

Does this thing do well with ambient light and for sports watching, or is that something better handled by the 8500ub?

The third picture:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/Spartycusc/Home%20Theater/Stuart%20s%20build%202010/IMG_0341.jpg

looks squished to me. That's usually what happens when you aren't using the right aspect ratio.... I'm thinking that if you figure out what's wrong with the aspect then your other problem will go away.


This is where I would start troubleshooting. What's baffling is Cnd Joe said he did set the AR to be 16:9. Wonder if there are other settings.

Cnd Joe:
- Are you playing "Old School" (no pun intended) DVD?
- Can you take some screenshots of the settings on the projector?

Hi there, I'm a proud owner of a Pany 4000u for about a month. Everything was working great until last night. I turned on the pj and a strange oval " stain", blue-tinted appears in the center-left of the screen. It's about 5" in diameter and it constantly moves right to left, up and down. The stain is very suttle, it only be seen in dark scenes and does'nt affect the image in bright scenes. I'm worried, does anyone know what is happening? The bulb only has 87 hours, I turn off the Auto Iris, worked with the settings and the stain stays. The other problem I notice (it happens more often) is that the image moves itself about a inch up or down, left to righ. This is normal. Please help me!!!

I have a set up question. I am going to mount a 130 inch 2.35:1 Firehawk G3 screen. When I use the calculator I have the settings for 16:9. So, my PJ is mounted at approx 13' 7". I use the zoom to fill the 2.35:1 screen correct?

In other words, I don't calculate for a 130" screen because I am stretching the picture for 2.35:1.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE4000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

set the vertical image for my screen height of 51"

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Hi, John: You should check the 2.35 box, and put in 130" as the diagonal, and let the calculator do the rest.

If you check the 16:9, and then set the height, the calculator gives you 13'7" based on a 104" diagonal 16:9 screen. That puts you already too close to the min throw distance, 13.47 feet based on my calculation, recommended by Panasonic for 130" scope screen.

If you think about it:

Since there is no or very few native 21:9 projectors, the options must be meant for the choice of the screen aspect ratio.

Then whether zooming or anamorphic, the image width is enlarged by 1.33x horizontally over that of a 16:9 image of the same height. The calculator must know the accurate width of the screen so that it could set you projector far enough to fill it. The calculator knows that by asking you to put in the screen aspect ratio, and it takes care of the rest.

In my case, I checked the 2.35:1 box for my scope screen setup, and then checked the 16:9 box for the 16:9 screen, in order to find the optimal point for both.

Optimum height from the ceiling to hang the Screen to have a comfortable viewing?


I personally don't want to feel like I am sitting in the first row of a theater. The rule of thumb I dug out by lurking on these forums is you have to put 1/4 to 1/3 of the screen height under your eye level, sitting down, which is about 39" or 40". My screen heights fit into the middle of the range, but I hope I could had gone with the lower range. This will also depend on the height of your LCR speakers, their placement, and the screen width.

Hi there, I'm a proud owner of a Pany 4000u for about a month. Everything was working great until last night. I turned on the pj and a strange oval " stain", blue-tinted appears in the center-left of the screen. It's about 5" in diameter and it constantly moves right to left, up and down. The stain is very suttle, it only be seen in dark scenes and does'nt affect the image in bright scenes. I'm worried, does anyone know what is happening? The bulb only has 87 hours, I turn off the Auto Iris, worked with the settings and the stain stays. The other problem I notice (it happens more often) is that the image moves itself about a inch up or down, left to righ. This is normal. Please help me!!!

Sounds like a dust blob. You can play around with your focus to make it clearer and verify that is what you have. There are instructions posted, if you do a search in this thread, to blow the dust out.

Hi, John: You should check the 2.35 box, and put in 130" as the diagonal, and let the calculator do the rest.

If you check the 16:9, and then set the height, the calculator gives you 13'7" based on a 104" diagonal 16:9 screen. That puts you already too close to the min throw distance, 13.47 feet based on my calculation, recommended by Panasonic for 130" scope screen.

If you think about it:

Since there is no or very few native 21:9 projectors, the options must be meant for the choice of the screen aspect ratio.

Then whether zooming or anamorphic, the image width is enlarged by 1.33x horizontally over that of a 16:9 image of the same height. The calculator must know the accurate width of the screen so that it could set you projector far enough to fill it. The calculator knows that by asking you to put in the screen aspect ratio, and it takes care of the rest.

In my case, I checked the 2.35:1 box for my scope screen setup, and then checked the 16:9 box for the 16:9 screen, in order to find the optimal point for both.

HOw do I get the optimal point for both? I am ceiling mounting the pj. I can't mount it in two spots.

In regards to my clients place, yah it was Old School, it did read 2.35 on the box. But to be sure I took my PS3 and I, Robot and went back and tried it. It works like it is supposed to so thanks for help in stearing me in the right direction.

HOw do I get the optimal point for both? I am ceiling mounting the pj. I can't mount it in two spots.

Hi, John: In your case, you just need to set the calculator for 130" diagonal, 2.35:1.

Sorry for the confusion. I use 2 screens for 2 aspect ratios, so I needed to figure out an optimal spot to mount the projector for both screens. I was just illustrating the point that the settings are for screen aspect ratio.

Again, you just need to use 2.35:1 aspect ratio with 130" diagonal, once.

In regards to my clients place, yah it was Old School, it did read 2.35 on the box. But to be sure I took my PS3 and I, Robot and went back and tried it. It works like it is supposed to so thanks for help in stearing me in the right direction.

So I guess the DVD was anamorphic?

Got the projector today (1 week from WA to PA). I wasn't able to do much tonight because I had to go to my kids school after work, but I did get it mounted and hung. I'm actually OK with how far it's hanging down now (about 11"), but I still might shorten than up a bit. Not sure yet.

The cabling is already run through the ceiling, but I still need to drop it down the wall. I have to remove my 57" RPTV and the component rack (got a new one) and then I'll hook everything up and test it out. I'll probably try to get some of that done tomorrow after work.

Once I get it working, I'll finalize on the screen (material and size) and order it. I'm thinking 106"-120" 16:9 fixed mount (Elite probably). I'm leaning toward 110", but I want to project 120" and see what it looks like. I'm limited in my width, but I'll play around a bit and see what works.

Very excited to turn it on!

John

Whatever..

The MSRP says 1999 but i cant seem to find this unit anywhere for that price. Is there something im missing?

The MSRP says 1999 but i cant seem to find this unit anywhere for that price. Is there something im missing?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/online_prices.cfm?part_id=5240

Hi, John: In your case, you just need to set the calculator for 130" diagonal, 2.35:1.

Sorry for the confusion. I use 2 screens for 2 aspect ratios, so I needed to figure out an optimal spot to mount the projector for both screens. I was just illustrating the point that the settings are for screen aspect ratio.

Again, you just need to use 2.35:1 aspect ratio with 130" diagonal, once.

Problem is, when I use the 2.35:1 calculator, It tells me to mount the pj at 17'10" from the screen, I can't do that because the room is only 17 feet deep.

My specs for my room in my new home said that the room was 19' deep but that was an error. I found this out after the screen was delivered. That's why I was hoping that I would use the 16:9 calc to mount at 13'7" and when I am viewing blu rays that are cinemascope, I'd hit Zoom preset and the pic would pan out to fill the 2.35:1 area of the 130' screen.

The only other option I would have would be to mount the pj out of the room and that would drive my wife crazy, not to mention make me look like some kind of idiot.

The MSRP says 1999 but i cant seem to find this unit anywhere for that price. Is there something im missing?

http://www.visualapex.com/Panasonic/projector-specifications.asp?for-the=PT-AE4000U

And according to that site the MSRP is 2499.

Problem is, when I use the 2.35:1 calculator, It tells me to mount the pj at 17'10" from the screen, I can't do that because the room is only 17 feet deep.

My specs for my room in my new home said that the room was 19' deep but that was an error. I found this out after the screen was delivered. That's why I was hoping that I would use the 16:9 calc to mount at 13'7" and when I am viewing blu rays that are cinemascope, I'd hit Zoom preset and the pic would pan out to fill the 2.35:1 area of the 130' screen.

The only other option I would have would be to mount the pj out of the room and that would drive my wife crazy, not to mention make me look like some kind of idiot.

Hi, John: The projectorcentral calculator gives you an idea, but not necessary the rule. You actually SHOULD mount it closer. The 17' depth is perfect. I would put it at 15.5 to 17', ceiling mounted or on shelf on the back wall, if there is one.

As long as the projector is within the range as specified in the Pannasonic manual, you should be fine. In your case, that should be 13.5' to over 20' (The max is an estimate, I didn't calculate it.). 15.5 to 17' is the closer range, and should give you boost in brightness. This works out real nice, since I belive projectocental caculator uses manufacturer-provided lumen numbers, not reflecting real world measurements.

If it's not too much, do you mind showing a picture what you will do? Thanks.

Here's my temporary solution. The monoprice mount hangs down too far with the extension in so I had to get a shorter one (delivery today). I keep hitting so many roadblocks. Maybe this is a sign....ugh!

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4484131374_a5fd140ab6_o.jpg

Thick rubber washers and some of that rubber used in kitchen drawers. I was still able to get the mount level and it did cut down the vibration with the washer/dryer running so I'll probably stick with it.

Problem is, when I use the 2.35:1 calculator, It tells me to mount the pj at 17'10" from the screen, I can't do that because the room is only 17 feet deep.

My specs for my room in my new home said that the room was 19' deep but that was an error. I found this out after the screen was delivered. That's why I was hoping that I would use the 16:9 calc to mount at 13'7" and when I am viewing blu rays that are cinemascope, I'd hit Zoom preset and the pic would pan out to fill the 2.35:1 area of the 130' screen.

The only other option I would have would be to mount the pj out of the room and that would drive my wife crazy, not to mention make me look like some kind of idiot.

John, what you need to do is to go to page 14 of the manual. Calculate the minimum and maximum distances for both the 16:9 and 2.35:1 screens. (Be sure to sure the correct diagonal measurement for both!) You then take the Maximum 'minimum distance' and the Minimum 'maximum distance'. You have to mount the projector between those dimensions. As I understand it, mounting as near to the screen as possible will give you the brightest image.

The Panasonic PTAE-4000 has 2 lamp modes: normal vs eco.
Does using the eco mode give the lamp a longer life? If so, how many hours more?
Or is the eco mode only to save energy?

Here's my temporary solution. The monoprice mount hangs down too far with the extension in so I had to get a shorter one (delivery today). I keep hitting so many roadblocks. Maybe this is a sign....ugh!

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4484131374_a5fd140ab6_o.jpg

Thick rubber washers and some of that rubber used in kitchen drawers. I was still able to get the mount level and it did cut down the vibration with the washer/dryer running so I'll probably stick with it.

Thanks very much for the picture. I got the idea now. The rubber washers are a good idea. I may play with mine.

In terms of roadblocks, was that you who had to send the unit in for repair of convergence issues?

Thanks again.

You can use that Monoprice mount with no extension at all. Just take it out.

The Panasonic PTAE-4000 has 2 lamp modes: normal vs eco.
Does using the eco mode give the lamp a longer life? If so, how many hours more?
Or is the eco mode only to save energy?

Eco mode should give you longer lamp life, and I want to say by up to 50%, but this is just a wild guess.

There is another aspect of this: Many of us took advice from more experience owners to start with eco mode for the first 500 hours, and then switch to normal, to even out the effect of fast degradation lamp brightness during the first 500 hours.

You can use that Monoprice mount with no extension at all. Just take it out.

Yup that was my original plan but the projector wont be down far enough so the lens is inside of where my 2.35 screen will be. I ordered this mount before knowing that - whoops!

jjmbxkb, yes that's it and little things here and there. I'll get this thing up and going soon and not look back! :D

Hi, wizzack: I'm sure things will work out great eventually. The bumps will just make that moment so much sweeter.

Love your list of short movie blogs/twitts. Very cool. After all, that is the whole reason to get better sound and picture. How did you get them consolidated into one list? You kept a movie journal or there is an avsforum utility doing that for you?

Personally, I think once your got your projector up and running, adding screenshots to these quick thoughts would be even more dramatic.

Hi, wizzack: I'm sure things will work out great eventually. The bumps will just make that moment so much sweeter.

Love your list of short movie blogs/twitts. Very cool. After all, that is the whole reason to get better sound and picture. How did you get them consolidated into one list? You kept a movie journal or there is an avsforum utility doing that for you?

Personally, I think once your got your projector up and running, adding screenshots to these quick thoughts would be even more dramatic.

jjmbxkb, thanks & glad you got a kick out it. :)

I love horror movies and the Halloween season so what better way to enjoy it than have a movie marathon. Some of us maniacs over in the dvd area of this forum watch as many horror movies as we can in October and everyone posts their thoughts after each one.

This year will be the 3rd year and I'm going to use your awesome idea...post a screenshot of the movie from the AE4000! I love it! This year will be special. I can't imagine how crazy some of these movies are going to look on the big screen. btw - those screenshots you posted look really great. I saw your gallery is one of the most popular on the bd forum. Kudos!

wizzack: Thanks for the encouragement.

I just subscribed to that thread. Will be watching out for those cool shots and witty comments. Just make sure you get a better Camera than mine. Also, Blu-ray will look even better than DVDs on your big screen.

Thanks again.

Whatever..

Not sure what this means. Care to expand on that comment?

Anyway, I started to hook everything up last night and ended up ruining my 25' HMDI cable. I had it plugged in to the AVR and I turned the ARV to get to the back to hook up the wiring. I didn't notice that the HMDI was stuck and when I turn it I bent the male connector. It's toast. Grrrr. I ordered another one and it should be here Monday.

I was impatient to see it working though, so I hooked the Blu-ray/HD DVD player directly to the projector. After a quick focus and position, all I can say is WOW and this is projecting onto a mauve painted semi-gloss wall! My wife and kids were impressed also. We're moving from a 57" RPTV CRT and I like what I've seen so far!

John

i wish panasonic had more faith in their product past 2000 hours. i would have purchased this projector had it not been for epson having a better warranty.

the store im purchasing the projector from would have extended the warranty up to 4 years but since panasonic cuts off their warranty at 2000 hours, if in the 4 year period i surpassed 2000 hours, then i would not be able to get free bulbs. but with epsons warranty, i can get free bulbs for 4 years from my local video store. so it was an obvious choice to get the 8500UB

Hi there, I'm a proud owner of a Pany 4000u for about a month. Everything was working great until last night. I turned on the pj and a strange oval " stain", blue-tinted appears in the center-left of the screen. It's about 5" in diameter and it constantly moves right to left, up and down. The stain is very suttle, it only be seen in dark scenes and does'nt affect the image in bright scenes. I'm worried, does anyone know what is happening? The bulb only has 87 hours, I turn off the Auto Iris, worked with the settings and the stain stays. The other problem I notice (it happens more often) is that the image moves itself about a inch up or down, left to righ. This is normal. Please help me!!!

It's a dust blob- don't worry about, just dust as the manual suggests. You might also want invest in a good air cleaner if dust is an issue and keep the PJ away from any central air vents.

Also, the inch or so of movement seems to come from putting on/taking off the lens cap and having manual shift controls. Just re-adjust it if it moves.

-J

i wish panasonic had more faith in their product past 2000 hours. i would have purchased this projector had it not been for epson having a better warranty.

the store im purchasing the projector from would have extended the warranty up to 4 years but since panasonic cuts off their warranty at 2000 hours, if in the 4 year period i surpassed 2000 hours, then i would not be able to get free bulbs. but with epsons warranty, i can get free bulbs for 4 years from my local video store. so it was an obvious choice to get the 8500UB

I'd rather take the chance and have the picture quality I'm happy with. Lamp-life specs are loose estimates that shouldn't be treated as iron-clad. I have (had) a 2005 Sony 55 inch WEGA LCD RPTV that should've had lamp issues a couple of years ago since it's so heavily used and it still works/looks like new.

-J

I have a quick question about CIH, my screen wall is about 130" wide. Right now I have the projector temporary throwing up a image on the screen wall that is filling the entire width of the wall, whether its 16x9 or 2.35. So I guess its a CIW. To do CIH do I need to zoom in and make the image smaller for the 16x9 content? And then zoom back out for 2.35 scope content? I kind of like having that really huge 16x9 image that covers nearly all of the wall. But most of my watching will be scope material. I guess if I go with this CIW I can make some masking material and mask off the part of the screen for when I am watching scope material.

My projector mount came in yesterday from monoprice.com, I hope to have everything mounted and wired up this weekend, so I can get the final specs for my screen size, but its going to be a busy weekend with Easter and everything going on.

I have a quick question about CIH, my screen wall is about 130" wide. Right now I have the projector temporary throwing up a image on the screen wall that is filling the entire width of the wall, whether its 16x9 or 2.35. So I guess its a CIW. To do CIH do I need to zoom in and make the image smaller for the 16x9 content? And then zoom back out for 2.35 scope content? I kind of like having that really huge 16x9 image that covers nearly all of the wall. But most of my watching will be scope material. I guess if I go with this CIW I can make some masking material and mask off the part of the screen for when I am watching scope material.

My projector mount came in yesterday from monoprice.com, I hope to have everything mounted and wired up this weekend, so I can get the final specs for my screen size, but its going to be a busy weekend with Easter and everything going on.

Yes, you will get smaller 16:9 image in CIH, since you got to fit a taller shape into a wider shape. If you go with CIW, then the scope images are smaller.

I think I know what you mean by liking the 16:9 image filling up the wall. The height of the image has an impact on you as the immersiveness of scope aspect ratio does, equally impressive but different.

Vertical masking in CIH and Horizontal masking in CIW improves perceived contrast. IMHO, masking is one of those things that you don't feel the need for until you actually try it.

My opinion is that you figure out if your screen is width restricted or height restricted. In my case I could not go any wider than 104". So I chose to go with a 119" 16:9 screen. This makes both my 16:9 and 2.35:1 movies 104" wide. If I would have choosen a CIH setup with a 2.35:1 screen, then my 16:9 images would have been smaller.

What is supposed to do, and which setting should be used ?
I have various materials from BD rips with high PQ up to heavily compressed SD divx old films.
Projection is on the painted wall, 360 cm diagonal (~12 feet), room is rather dark even at day and I did those test at night in complete darkness.
Can't see any effect of these settings - good image stays good, bad with pixelization and block noise stays bad.
Are those filters so subtle they can't be seen visually (so what is their purpose :confused:) or I miss something ? May some other setting cancels them (clarity which I have at 4,sharpening (but it is set to 0)) ?

It's a dust blob- don't worry about, just dust as the manual suggests. You might also want invest in a good air cleaner if dust is an issue and keep the PJ away from any central air vents.

Also, the inch or so of movement seems to come from putting on/taking off the lens cap and having manual shift controls. Just re-adjust it if it moves.

-J

I picked this up as a proactive measure against dust blobs.

http://www.amazon.com/Winix-9000S-Air-Cleaner-Blue/dp/B000F52LQG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270299971&sr=8-5

Consumer's Union, the publishers of Consumer Reports magazine, did an expose of those 3 foot tall (or so) air filter towers that places like Sharper Image (at least used to) sell. In a nutshell they said they are completely inadequate to filter a room sized area, but give the illusion that they are doing the job because after a day or so their filters do indeed show dirt. This is analogous to putting on a pair of white gloves, running your fingers over the top of a piece of furniture, and declaring, "See the dirt? I just dusted my room!" What they do is remove 1% of the room air dust/dirt while that quickly gets replaced within minutes from the outside world (unless you live in a hermetically sealed box, that is). Leaving them on 24/7 and they'll still never catch up with the constant influx of new dirt/dust.

They said there are room air filters available that do truly work, but they are comparatively expensive and more the size of a window mounted air conditioner at the very least.

Sorry for the bad news but I thought people should know.

The entire air purifying industry seems to be awash with scams and quackery. (http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/heating-cooling-and-air/air-cleaners/ionizing-air-cleaners-air-cleaners-the-truth-behind-the-accolades-505/index.htm)

I have a couple of these air purifiers in the house and they truly work and are silent on the lowest setting. I've had a dozen differet brands/makes, but this item is the best out there I have found. Both are identical:

http://www.amazon.com/Blueair-403-HepaSilent-Air-Purification-System/dp/B002A9JHBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1270338522&sr=1-6

http://www.amazon.com/Blueair-402-Air-Purification-System/dp/B0000668C1/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1270338522&sr=1-19

Reduces the dust you see in the projector beam to almost zero in minutes :)

I have a couple of these air purifiers in the house and they truly work and are silent on the lowest setting. I've had a dozen differet brands/makes, but this item is the best out there I have found. Both are identical:

http://www.amazon.com/Blueair-403-HepaSilent-Air-Purification-System/dp/B002A9JHBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1270338522&sr=1-6

http://www.amazon.com/Blueair-402-Air-Purification-System/dp/B0000668C1/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1270338522&sr=1-19

Reduces the dust you see in the projector beam to almost zero in minutes :)

I have the the projector mounted on a shelf just 18" from eye level and even though the HT is vacuumed every week, I can't believe the amount of dust I see in the projector beam. I really hate that, bothers me a lot. Thanks for the link. I was thinking of getting the Blueair-215B from Costco, mainly for the lifetime warranty. I am also looking at the Rabbit Air BioGS (model 421A) and Winix 9000. Do you have any experience with any of these?

Ok its been a long day, and I am pretty wiped out. But I am working on my HT tonight. Why can't I get this Monoprice mount to work? I can only get the mount to match up to three holes on the projector. What am I doing wrong? Its the same mount lots of people are using here.

Probably need to call it a night and work on it when I am not brain dead.

Ok its been a long day, and I am pretty wiped out. But I am working on my HT tonight. Why can't I get this Monoprice mount to work? I can only get the mount to match up to three holes on the projector. What am I doing wrong? Its the same mount lots of people are using here.

Probably need to call it a night and work on it when I am not brain dead.

Can you take a photo of the mount with the holes you are using?

What is supposed to do, and which setting should be used ?
I have various materials from BD rips with high PQ up to heavily compressed SD divx old films.
Projection is on the painted wall, 360 cm diagonal (~12 feet), room is rather dark even at day and I did those test at night in complete darkness.
Can't see any effect of these settings - good image stays good, bad with pixelization and block noise stays bad.
Are those filters so subtle they can't be seen visually (so what is their purpose :confused:) or I miss something ? May some other setting cancels them (clarity which I have at 4,sharpening (but it is set to 0)) ?

Usually Digital NR does more harm than good to the picutre. I own a PT-AE4000 too. Treaked with those settings but found almost no effect to the PQ (just like what you mentioned). To play safe, I turned it off completely.

I have the the projector mounted on a shelf just 18" from eye level and even though the HT is vacuumed every week, I can't believe the amount of dust I see in the projector beam. I really hate that, bothers me a lot. Thanks for the link. I was thinking of getting the Blueair-215B from Costco, mainly for the lifetime warranty. I am also looking at the Rabbit Air BioGS (model 421A) and Winix 9000. Do you have any experience with any of these?

After reading Steven Kelby's post, I have decided to return my Winix 9000s and purchase a recoditioned Blueair 550E, it's $499 instead of $699 and has a CADR rating of 380. They honor their 5 year warranty on these reconditioned units.

My Winix 9000S CADR rating was a woefull 142. Thanks for the info and I'm glad I did some more reasearch. Why get a unit that probably wouldn't go far enough to protect my pj. I think it's worth the extra $300, plus I will be breathing healthier air.

http://www.blueairstore.com/product/689122000756-R.html

After reading Steven Kelby's post, I have decided to return my Winix 9000s and purchase a recoditioned Blueair 550E, it's $499 instead of $699 and has a CADR rating of 380. They honor their 5 year warranty on these reconditioned units.

My Winix 9000S CADR rating was a woefull 142. Thanks for the info and I'm glad I did some more reasearch. Why get a unit that probably wouldn't go far enough to protect my pj. I think it's worth the extra $300, plus I will be breathing healthier air.

http://www.blueairstore.com/product/689122000756-R.html

Where can I read about Air purifier ? Like reviews and rating ?

I have the the projector mounted on a shelf just 18" from eye level and even though the HT is vacuumed every week, I can't believe the amount of dust I see in the projector beam. I really hate that, bothers me a lot. Thanks for the link. I was thinking of getting the Blueair-215B from Costco, mainly for the lifetime warranty. I am also looking at the Rabbit Air BioGS (model 421A) and Winix 9000. Do you have any experience with any of these?

No worries. I did have a 2 series here for a week, 203 or something from memory. It was fine but fairly noisy on the lowest setting, too noisy for me so I sent it back for a 4xx.

The 2xx was intended for my bed room which is small, hence the need for only a small unit, and I read that the sound output was the same for both, so I got the cheaper one.

Sound output is no where near the same to my ears.

I'm a super light sleeper and very sensitive to sound anyway. I built a truly silent PC with hard drives in another room, my car has 100 pounds of dynamat etc. Still, the 2xx would have been ok in the home theater room on lowest setting, it's only slightly louder than the AE4000, but it's too small to do my big room efficiently. A 4xx is just right.

The 4xx is quiet enough for me to sleep with it on the lowest setting. It is audible, but a very "distant" sound like a steady wind blowing far away :) It's the least annoying sound imaginable and probably helps me sleep as it smooths out other sounds from traffic and such. I live in the hills and it's very quiet here anyway.

Oh and the 4xx are the quietest unit Blueair sell. If I had a huge room I would just get another 1 or 2, or go with a full on custom built in system.

By the way, according to the rep here, all 2xx are funcionally the same as each other, all 4xx are the same, 5xx are the same etc, the xx just signify an updated model or accesories . For example the 402 and 403 I linked above are identical, but one comes with a little reminder thing that counts down to 6 months (recommended filter change interval).

The rep also said they all make the same sound, obviously he never listened, or is deaf :)

Where can I read about Air purifier ? Like reviews and rating ?

I spent a very long time searching and as far as I can tell, no where :(

There are people with experience on various non-air purifier forums around the place, PC, car, stereo forums and so on, but I never found anything comprehensive. Just google and read till you go crazy :)

I just ended up buying a lot of differet ones over the years, most are crap, even up to $1000.

The only other brand apart from blueair that were good was IQ Air but they are even more $$$ than the blueair.

Hope that helps!

Where can I read about Air purifier ? Like reviews and rating ?

I began my search on Amazon. They list a lot of different air purifiers with a mountain of reviews. From what I can tell, the important thing about the unit is the square feet that it covers and the CADR rating. If it's under 150 it's inadequete. I bought the Blueair 550E which has a CADR rating of 380 which is excellent. Reconditioned unit will save you a lot of money and still get a 5 year warranty.

No worries. I did have a 2 series here for a week, 203 or something from memory. It was fine but fairly noisy on the lowest setting, too noisy for me so I sent it back for a 4xx.

The 2xx was intended for my bed room which is small, hence the need for only a small unit, and I read that the sound output was the same for both, so I got the cheaper one.

Sound output is no where near the same to my ears.

I'm a super light sleeper and very sensitive to sound anyway. I built a truly silent PC with hard drives in another room, my car has 100 pounds of dynamat etc. Still, the 2xx would have been ok in the home theater room on lowest setting, it's only slightly louder than the AE4000, but it's too small to do my big room efficiently. A 4xx is just right.

The 4xx is quiet enough for me to sleep with it on the lowest setting. It is audible, but a very "distant" sound like a steady wind blowing far away :) It's the least annoying sound imaginable and probably helps me sleep as it smooths out other sounds from traffic and such. I live in the hills and it's very quiet here anyway.

Oh and the 4xx are the quietest unit Blueair sell. If I had a huge room I would just get another 1 or 2, or go with a full on custom built in system.

By the way, according to the rep here, all 2xx are funcionally the same as each other, all 4xx are the same, 5xx are the same etc, the xx just signify an updated model or accesories . For example the 402 and 403 I linked above are identical, but one comes with a little reminder thing that counts down to 6 months (recommended filter change interval).

The rep also said they all make the same sound, obviously he never listened, or is deaf :)



I spent a very long time searching and as far as I can tell, no where :(

There are people with experience on various non-air purifier forums around the place, PC, car, stereo forums and so on, but I never found anything comprehensive. Just google and read till you go crazy :)

I just ended up buying a lot of differet ones over the years, most are crap, even up to $1000.

The only other brand apart from blueair that were good was IQ Air but they are even more $$$ than the blueair.

Hope that helps!

Thank you that helps a lot. My HT room is about 19 x 17. I am looking at the 500 or 400 series. I am trying to decide whether the auto function and the remote control of the 4xxE series worth the extra coin. I hope AE4000 owners won't mind that we took this a bit off topic. Sorry guys.

I began my search on Amazon. They list a lot of different air purifiers with a mountain of reviews. From what I can tell, the important thing about the unit is the square feet that it covers and the CADR rating. If it's under 150 it's inadequete. I bought the Blueair 550E which has a CADR rating of 380 which is excellent. Reconditioned unit will save you a lot of money and still get a 5 year warranty.

Thanks, I will look into that.

i wish panasonic had more faith in their product past 2000 hours. i would have purchased this projector had it not been for epson having a better warranty.

the store im purchasing the projector from would have extended the warranty up to 4 years but since panasonic cuts off their warranty at 2000 hours, if in the 4 year period i surpassed 2000 hours, then i would not be able to get free bulbs. but with epsons warranty, i can get free bulbs for 4 years from my local video store. so it was an obvious choice to get the 8500UB

The warranty on the 8500U is two years and does not cover lamps which only come with a 90 day warranty from Epson. If you have found a private, local dealer that assures you they will offer you free replacement lamps, under a 4 year extended warranty ($?) [assuming they stay in business for that long], then that's a private matter between you and them and has nothing to do with Epson. If they refuse to do so similarly on Panasonic, they can make up any song or dance they want as to "why" they wont offer the same but I suspect it has more to do with the fact that they really don't want to sell you a Panasonic in the first place and would rather bad mouth them as much as possible, since selling it at the competitive street price it can be found for almost anywhere over the internet is not profitable to them.

If you respond to this, please indicate the name of the retailer that is making this claim, which is perfectly within forum guidelines. We only aren't allowed to discuss retailer's prices. Thanks.

Lens memory help.

I have a 2.35:1 screen.

Hopefully I just missed something obvious. I'm trying to setup my two lens memory presets for 16:9 content and 2.35:1 content. I followed the steps outlined earlier in this thread (somewhere around page 50) but still have an issue.

So I got the 16:9 image all perfected (zoom, focus, lens shift) so that it is centered left to right and fills the screen vertically. Then when I zoom out for the 2.35:1 image, the top of the projected image actually moves down about 2" or so. So I'm not sure how to fix this. I tried using the vertical area shift, but that only works on the projected area...so it won't shift any higher. If I mess with the vertical lens shift, it screws up my 16:9 image.

What piece am I missing here?

Lens memory help.

I have a 2.35:1 screen.

Hopefully I just missed something obvious. I'm trying to setup my two lens memory presets for 16:9 content and 2.35:1 content. I followed the steps outlined earlier in this thread (somewhere around page 50) but still have an issue.

So I got the 16:9 image all perfected (zoom, focus, lens shift) so that it is centered left to right and fills the screen vertically. Then when I zoom out for the 2.35:1 image, the top of the projected image actually moves down about 2" or so. So I'm not sure how to fix this. I tried using the vertical area shift, but that only works on the projected area...so it won't shift any higher. If I mess with the vertical lens shift, it screws up my 16:9 image.

What piece am I missing here?

I had the same issue when I had lens above the top of the screen. Lowering the projector solved it.

I had the same issue when I had lens above the top of the screen. Lowering the projector solved it.

My lens might be a few inches above the top of my screen :(

That sucks if this is the only way to fix it...I just got my shelf all nice and mounted.

How far below top of screen does the PJ need to be?

Thanks for the quick reply, and if anyone else knows anyway to solve without lowering the projector, PLEASE let me know!

The Lens Memory function remembers the vertical and horizontal positioning as well as the zoom and focus settings.

Just get it al set up for a certain content, say, 2.40:1 (or 16:9), then save that settings under Lens Memory 2.40:1 (or 16:9). You can call them a name if that's easier.

Then in the Auto Switching menu, point the 16:9 at your 16:9 setting and the same with cinemascope.

Because some cinemascope content is 2.35:1, some is 2.37:1, some is 2.40:1 etc, the Auto Switching won't always work perfectly. In that case just use the Lens Memory to set it back to where you saved the settings for whatever aspect ratio you're watching.

My lens might be a few inches above the top of my screen :(

That sucks if this is the only way to fix it...I just got my shelf all nice and mounted.

How far below top of screen does the PJ need to be?

Thanks for the quick reply, and if anyone else knows anyway to solve without lowering the projector, PLEASE let me know!


I've seen people get away with a working CIH setup with projector several inches higher than the screen. But that's the highest you can go. ziptiecowboy's experiment verified this.

Here are other options I've heard people using without lowering the projector:

1. Tilt the projector downward, then tilt up the screen a litte, IF you have a fixed frame screen. This avoids keystoning.

2. Tilt the projector downward just a little, then use keystone adjustment. Most would say this is a big no no due to PQ degradation from keystoning. But see it for yourself. If the keystoning is subtle enough, you may be fine.

Thanks for the quick reply, and if anyone else knows anyway to solve without lowering the projector, PLEASE let me know!

If you are willing to settle for a less than optimal quality image for your 16:9 content you can do what I do. Switch to aspect "S16:9" which shows a much smaller image but still proportionally correct. Adjust zoom and focus to get it to fill the screen. Switching back and forth would then require a change to a different memorized lens setting and a different aspect setting. But you won't have to touch the projector.

The disadvantage is that the 16:9 image won't be as bright and may not be as sharp (especially for 1080 content).

I eventually want to change my mount to get the projector lower, but in the meantime this works reasonably well.

Ok its been a long day, and I am pretty wiped out. But I am working on my HT tonight. Why can't I get this Monoprice mount to work? I can only get the mount to match up to three holes on the projector. What am I doing wrong? Its the same mount lots of people are using here.

Probably need to call it a night and work on it when I am not brain dead.

Here's how one person did it

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17979713#post17979713

I just set mine up last week, not exactly the same way but the same general idea.

Eco mode should give you longer lamp life, and I want to say by up to 50%, but this is just a wild guess.

There is another aspect of this: Many of us took advice from more experience owners to start with eco mode for the first 500 hours, and then switch to normal, to even out the effect of fast degradation lamp brightness during the first 500 hours.



BIG QUESTION:……..

Some of us must have owned this projector long enough to run the lamp up to 2,000 hrs.

Please post your comments and observations on durability, brightness drop off, color change, lamp life beyond 2k, etc, etc.
Thanks to all.

I've seen people get away with a working CIH setup with projector several inches higher than the screen. But that's the highest you can go. ziptiecowboy's experiment verified this.



For reference…post #4171 thru #4178.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18209879#post18209879