So the previous owner of my house attached the drywall on the basements external walls to 1x2's. These 1x2's are spaced approximately every 16 inches with 3/4" foamboard in between and covered with plastic sheeting then the drywall on top. My projector screen wall is going to be on one of these external walls. Any ideas on how to route my front L/R and center channel speaker wires through this mess? I figured I would have to cut three vertical channels in the drywall to the ceiling and just mud over them. I'm using Monoprice 12ga speaker wire which is 3/8" in diameter so it would be snug. Would it be advisable to cut into the plastic sheeting and foamboard to get a little more depth?

What about a baseboard run? If the area is carpeted you can usually tuck the wire under the base board with little muss or fuss.
If you need more room you can do a layered build up of the base board to suit your tase while incorporating a larger routed area. Might be easier than cracking into the drywall.

I thought about going the baseboard route but my equipment closet is at the back-left of the room with a door in the way so running the speaker wire through the ceiling would be easier and more direct. Also, knock on wood, if the basement ever flooded I'd have to rerun the speaker wire. How would you go about the "layered build up of base board?"

what about building a wall with 2x4 directly up against this wall>

I thought about going the baseboard route but my equipment closet is at the back-left of the room with a door in the way so running the speaker wire through the ceiling would be easier and more direct. Also, knock on wood, if the basement ever flooded I'd have to rerun the speaker wire. How would you go about the "layered build up of base board?"

If flooding is a concern then maybe a baseboard run is not in the cards.

What I meant by a "layered build up" is to furr out the finished baseboard, say 3/4" thicker than a single layer. You could leave a 3/4" thick x 1" tall void behind the lower portion of the baseboard for the wire run. The top of the baseboard would require an additional trim piece to visually blend the baseboard into the wall.

How about crown moulding? You can run the speaker wire behind that.

In either case , be sure to use wire rated for in wall installation.

what about building a wall with 2x4 directly up against this wall>This is an option that I wanted to avoid but it's looking like I may have to seriously consider it.

How about splicing on to a "flat/thin" speaker cable that you can mud over for the runs down the wall?

Hiding it behind some crown would definitely be easier than constructing a new wall. If you do decide on a new wall, be sure to insulate it.

CJ

Go the baseboard route. At the door, remove the case molding, go up and over behind the case molding.

I really don't understand the thought about plastic coated wire not surviving a flood. If it floods, the drywall (and maybe some of the framing) will have to come out and you can wipe off the wire and reuse behind the drywall.

Go the baseboard route. At the door, remove the case molding, go up and over behind the case molding.

I really don't understand the thought about plastic coated wire not surviving a flood. If it floods, the drywall (and maybe some of the framing) will have to come out and you can wipe off the wire and reuse behind the drywall.

Ditto! I think the wire would be the least of the worries after a flood!

Go the baseboard route. At the door, remove the case molding, go up and over behind the case molding.

I really don't understand the thought about plastic coated wire not surviving a flood. If it floods, the drywall (and maybe some of the framing) will have to come out and you can wipe off the wire and reuse behind the drywall.
I'll give the baseboard route a shot. The door is on the wall to the left of the projector screen and I have access to the backside of that wall (the basement is only partially finished). So once I get to that front left corner I can route the wire up and into the ceiling. And no that is not the final location of the projector screen; it's going to be lowered.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/IMG_2686.jpg

OK now I get the picture. If I was building out that theater I would either bring the wires down the front wall secured to the surface and disguised with a one inch layer of acoustical treatment and fabric, or take the wires to that far left corner on the other side of the partially completed wall with the door, then bring into the room at base board level and bring across the front.

+1 On what Big said.

Can also run the wire through the ceiling joist from back to front. Easy as pie. :D

I didn't realize the ceiling was open.
1. Get a long drill bit;
2. Cut holes for 3 old work boxes in the proper locations for your LCR speakers;
3. Angle the drill bit into the hole and push it up until you hit the top plate and drill up through the top plate (check for wires before drilling);
4. You can then drill throgh the joists to get to where you need to go. Just be sure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions on where you can and can't drill holes through the joists.

CJ

I didn't realize the ceiling was open.
1. Get a long drill bit;
2. Cut holes for 3 old work boxes in the proper locations for your LCR speakers;
3. Angle the drill bit into the hole and push it up until you hit the top plate and drill up through the top plate (check for wires before drilling);
4. You can then drill throgh the joists to get to where you need to go. Just be sure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions on where you can and can't drill holes through the joists.


That's the thing, this isn't a normally constructed 2x4 wall with a top plate otherwise I would have already done what you suggested. It's literally 1x2 strips tacked to the concrete basement wall and the drywall is attached to these strips. Here are some closeups of the top of the wall and an outlet I removed that was in a 1.5" deep old work box. You can see the foamboard insulation and 1x2. There is no depth to route speaker wire unless I cut vertical "channels" in the drywall/foamboard to reach the ceiling. I had to build some columns on an adjacent wall to mount some sconces and outlets because of this. I think I'm just going to go the baseboard route.
Outlet Pic #1 (http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/IMG_3051.jpg)
Outlet Pic #2 (http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/IMG_3054.jpg)
Top of Wall #1 (http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/IMG_3052.jpg)
Top of Wall #2 (http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/IMG_3053.jpg)

And if you're going to cut vertical channels and patch over them, it would likely be easier to take down the wall and build a new one. Were those boxes recessed or did they stick out somewhat?

Boy, if I were in your place, I'd pull down that wall and the furring strips. You could then frame in a proper 2 x 4 wall. In the process you can add in the speaker wire runs within the wall and install neat and tidy work box terminations. You could also clean up the electrical as well.

I know it is more work but the to me the end result would justify the effort. I bet you could do the demo, re-frame, and hang the drywall in one weekend.

Just my $0.02 worth...:D

Was there a reason you've ruled out a micro-flat speaker wire product that can be plastered over, like this (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/548927-REG/Acoustic_Research_PR_391_Pro_II_Series_800_Watt.html#feature s), at least from up the front wall into the open ceiling?

What about something like this flex drill bit:
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/tools_totes/saws_drill_bits/flexible_drill_bits.jsp
Comes in lengths up to 72in. Would suspect it would glide right down through the foamboard, but may possibly stray somewhat within the 16" furring cavity from the top to where the outlet box is intended to be.

If it were me I'd just go the baseboard route that Big suggested with virtually no cost to you (if that's a concern).

Were those boxes recessed or did they stick out somewhat?
Yes, they were recessed Carlon shallow boxes. I'm patching that hole and I'm not going to have outlets on that wall.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/FMPLover24/034481043744.jpg

Boy, if I were in your place, I'd pull down that wall and the furring strips. You could then frame in a proper 2 x 4 wall. In the process you can add in the speaker wire runs within the wall and install neat and tidy work box terminations. You could also clean up the electrical as well.

I know it is more work but the to me the end result would justify the effort. I bet you could do the demo, re-frame, and hang the drywall in one weekend.

Just my $0.02 worth...:D
I agree... in the long term I may end up doing this but short term I think I'll just do the baseboard method. Now when and if I do this what is the proper method/materials for insulating this external wall?

I agree... in the long term I may end up doing this but short term I think I'll just do the baseboard method. Now when and if I do this what is the proper method/materials for insulating this external wall?

Typically you would glue some 1" rigid foam to the concrete wall and seal the seems with Tuck Tape. Then erect a standard 2x4 wall 1/2" from the foam. Run your electrical and low voltage lines, use R13 insulation, and add some drywall. If you want to achieve proper sound isolation then you need to decouple the walls from the ceiling with some clips and use Green Glue with multiple layers of drywall.

+1 for what In2Photos wrote.

If you decide to re-frame the wall, I would ask your local building inspector about what code issues are involved with your project. Most inspectors are really great to work with.

In my case, for my current remodel, I just rang them up and asked a few questions. They really responded well to my wanting to “build it right” as long as I was considerate of their time. It took more time to get the fellow on the phone than to learn what I needed to do. A little general construction homework can save you big headaches involving moisture, mold, etc.