Hopefully I can explain my question correctly since I don't have time to do a Sketchup mockup. I also searched forum for previous questions or pics, but didn't see this addressed.

I'm planning on putting 2" thick vertical furring strips on my walls, putting 2" thick OC703 to 48" high between the strips, then covering with GOM.

It seems I'll need three horizontal strips across the wall to do:

1. Floor - About a 3.5" tall one to staple GOM to, and also nail baseboard into.
2. Middle - To staple the top of the lower wall GOM, and the bottom of the upper wall GOM to.
3. Ceiling - To staple the top of the upper wall GOM to.

Ideally, it seems like it would be best if these horizontal strips' face were at the same level at the vertical furring strips. But that would mean either:

1. Cutting (dado'ing?) into the tops, middle, and bottom of each vertical furring strip to the depth of the horizontal strip so that the horizontal strip is recessed.
2. Cutting individual pieces of horizontal strips that are secured in between the vertical strips.

Both methods seem like a lot of extra work. I suppose a third option would be to run horizontal strips first, then put the vertical strips in between those, but again seems like a lot of extra work.

Those of you who've done GOM-covered walls...how did you do your horizontal strips?

Thanks!

How are you planning on hiding the staples at the top and middle of the walls? and on the vertical furring?

This is a test question.

I was planning on doing as much "hidden staple" methods as I could. From seeing some of the other build threads here, I've seen the methods to staple GOM on existing corner furring strips and then butting the next wall you're working on beside it, and then continuing on. That hides the corner staples.

For top, I was probably going to use crown molding (or do the hidden staple thing at the top instead, and use molding to hide corners).

For middle, I was going to use the double-strip method with a bevel, which I saw in somebody's set of photos here.

BUT...

I just got to thinking...vertical strips really aren't needed, are they, except in corners?

I didn't think most people with GOM covered walls stapled the GOM to vertical furring strips, only the top, middle, and bottoms?

If that's the case, then would I even need vertical strips except in corners?

I could put up top, middle, and bottom horizontal strips, and use verticals just in the corners, couldn't I?

I wish some of you had video of how you did your strips. I'm much more of a visual person. I'd "get it" so much easier :)

EDIT: Here's one of the build thread set of pics I was trying to use as a guide. I think one of his other pics has details of the double-strip method with bevel to do the middle one:

URL: http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/early_construction/blazing_ridge_cinema-1/gom_fabric_linacous/back_wall.html

Pic:

http://images112.fotki.com/v589/photos/6/649633/3018602/backwall-vi.jpg

EDIT 2: Yep, pic 198 has the bevel profile I was thinking about:

http://images16.fotki.com/v271/photos/6/649633/3018602/GOMbeveled-vi.jpg

OK, you scored well on the test. Now as for some of your questions. Yes you can get by with a top,bottom, right and left furring strip for a single wall, no mid wall verticals required.

Basically furring strips are simply butt up against each other where they meet. You can cut all your strips and attach to the wall leaving the ones that are going to get the blind staple treatment help in place with a couple of screws so you can easily remove and replace. I like the concept of putting it in place so you can check the measurements of all the other adjacent strips.

Now something I can't get my mind wrapped around is the best approach to attach 2 inch thick furring. Most builds here use only one inch.

Yep, I was going to go with 2" OC just on the front wall and 1" on the others, but then decided maybe I'll just do the whole room in 2".

This is probably a dumb question, but wouldn't 2" thick furring all the way around be the same as 1" except with longer screws? BTW, I do plan on ripping my own boards so they're exactly 2" thick so they match the thickness of the OC.

But I haven't fully decided yet on the 2". I think I will still do the front (screen) wall in 2" based on a lot of threads I've read here. Side and rear wall thickness is still up for grabs.

However, one thing that's causing me grief if I go with 2" is how do I handle the receptacles and other electrical boxes in the walls? I know about box extenders, but the thickest one I've seen of those is 1-1/2" and I'm not sure I want to stack them.

I definitely do not want to use "new work" boxes and run the wire from the old box to the new one. That's too much electrical work for me to feel comfortable with, especially in a rental house.

I could just do the screen wall in 2", forget about the one receptacle in that wall and cover it up (it's a switched outlet anyway I don't plan on using).

The rest of the walls I do in 1", use box extenders on those outlets and be okay. Maybe that should be my plan....