Hello all -
This thread is dedicated to discussion about calibration of the new JVC RS25/HD950.

There is a ton of information in the original thread about the RS20.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1142828

PLEASE take a look over at that thread first.
There you will find:
links to reports from pro's on the RS20
a library of settings from other RS20 owners
Suggestions on using custom grayscale in the THX pre-set mode.

RS25 relevant:

Reports from the Pro's:
Jason@AVS: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1174409
Projectorreviews: http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/dla-rs25/index.php

Calibration Tips:
Classic beginner's mistake and link to Tom Huffman's CMS calibration tutorial and GregR's calculator thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16370193#post16370193
How to use filters to check brightness (LovingDVD): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16372917#post16372917
When/why NOT to use filters (GregR & Tom Huffman): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16373717#post16373717 and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16380651#post16380651
dE discussion: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16374865#post16374865
Tom Huffman's spreadsheet for CIELUV: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16378927#post16378927
GregR's DisplayCalibration Calculator: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16382042#post16382042
Get a screenshot in HCFR: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16383268#post16383268
Which USB cable for the firmware upgrade?: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16383437#post16383437
Training a meter to another in HCFR: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16384494#post16384494
Adjusting greyscale (GregR): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16387960#post16387960
Link to Calibration for Dummies: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16402839#post16402839
Use of filter and calibration tips (Darinp2): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16431819#post16431819
Saturation levels explained (Tom Huffman): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16439382#post16439382
Sharpness/focus adjustment tips (GregR / LeDahu / Deanbob): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16689752#post16689752
Great tips/tools for gamma calibration (LovingDVD / LeDahu): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17017488#post17017488
Gamma tweaking V2 (Le Dahu): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17060116#post17060116
Contrast and RGB (Tom Huffman et al): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17150298#post17150298

RS25 users - please PM me when you post your settings and I will update this thread accordingly.

I started using Natural preset - unfortunately in the Natural preset you to run out of room on Saturation for Yellow when color is set correctly. In order to get that dialed in I had to significantly reduce the Color setting. Others have also reported that Yellow Saturation is limiting in the Natural preset (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17420874#post17420874). According to Jason Turk, in the user pre-set, it is not necessary to reduce color so much - so I redid the calibration under USER1 last night. Under USER1 you can dial each of the colors in essentially perfectly with room to spare on all settings. This chart is from USER1 pre-set.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/4052058629_8d742b16fd.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/4047750338_0a8aeb7d8d.jpg

I am using an Oppo BDP-83 - source direct - color space=Auto
Calman + i1Pro
AVSHD v 1.3b Patched test disc.

Links finally fixed - sorry for the delay

save

Those results are fantastic!

Dan

I am going to test lovingdvd's settings from the RS20 here and will post how close these get you (in my particular RS25) to optimal. Jason has reported that grayscale and CMS settings are "all over the place" in the RS25's that he has calibrated (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17325962#post17325962). I'm not sure how variable the RS20's were, but lovingdvd said that several users had gotten good results using his settings.

Every projector varies within a model...I probably have tested more JVC's than anyone and there really is no specific setting that one can copy unfortunately (specifically in terms of grayscale and colors).

Every projector varies within a model...I probably have tested more JVC's than anyone and there really is no specific setting that one can copy unfortunately (specifically in terms of grayscale and colors).As many times as this gets repeated over and over--you simply cannot copy settings from one display device to another, the tolerances in consumer equipment are just not that tight--the temptation to use someone else's settings is just too great to resist. You would do just was well to use the THX mode, which is a reasonable approximation of a correct calibration. Otherwise, you really do need to make adjustments based on the measurements from your own display, not someone else's.

I think you are agreeing with me as that is what I was saying. :)

I agree as well and know that Jason has said that the RS25's have varied quite a bit in regards to CMS and Grayscale (original statement cited in the relevant post)- but this was requested by lovingdvd:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17421432#post17421432

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17422515#post17422515

I think you are agreeing with me as that is what I was saying. :)Absolutely. I just wanted to repeat it for emphasis.

I wasn't as clear in my post as I could have been. I was just expressing some frustration that despite the fact that what you wrote has been repeated many times by those who are in a position to know, it doesn't extinguish to desire to copy/paste from one installation to another.

As many times as this gets repeated over and over--you simply cannot copy settings from one display device to another, the tolerances in consumer equipment are just not that tight--the temptation to use someone else's settings is just too great to resist.

Tom

I couldn't agree more! It never works!

Absolutely. I just wanted to repeat it for emphasis.

I wasn't as clear in my post as I could have been. I was just expressing some frustration that despite the fact that what you wrote has been repeated many times by those who are in a position to know, it doesn't extinguish to desire to copy/paste from one installation to another.

Cool beanios. :)

I had a first pass with Calman and an enhanced Spyder3 pointed to the screen. I am having one problem.

I can nail the colour temperature. And I can nail all the primaries and secondaries EXCEPT blue! It is driving me crazy. I can even get a pretty good gamma curve.

I can get very low delta Es for the other primaries and secondaries (around 0.3 or 0.4). But I cannot get less than about 1 with blue. I understand the hue, sat and brightness all interact, but no combination will let me get lower than this.

I am using the user 1 preset. Clearly, its possible looking at the first post in this thread. Am I missing something?

I did note that the colour temperature was quite a bit out on my projector. 6500 was more like 7200 (as in THX mode). 5800 is more like 6500 (as used in Cinema 1 mode). However, the colours are pretty good in THX mode out of the box.

All of the abbreviated links are broken. ie: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16374865

the error is highlighed in red. It doesn't have the full link info.

I had a first pass with Calman and an enhanced Spyder3 pointed to the screen. I am having one problem.

I can nail the colour temperature. And I can nail all the primaries and secondaries EXCEPT blue! It is driving me crazy. I can even get a pretty good gamma curve.

I can get very low delta Es for the other primaries and secondaries (around 0.3 or 0.4). But I cannot get less than about 1 with blue. I understand the hue, sat and brightness all interact, but no combination will let me get lower than this.

I am using the user 1 preset. Clearly, its possible looking at the first post in this thread. Am I missing something?

I did note that the colour temperature was quite a bit out on my projector. 6500 was more like 7200 (as in THX mode). 5800 is more like 6500 (as used in Cinema 1 mode). However, the colours are pretty good in THX mode out of the box.

What is your primary color control set to? FYI blue is an odd one to do...try pushing hue to the right almost as far as it can go first...see what happens (may make it worse, but I have come across a few that while it appears lowering saturation a lot would move in the target, it actually needs hue moved counterclockwise).

Are there any CMS or other calibration differences between the old RS20 and new RS25 or RS35 models? If not, do we really need a new thread for just the RS25 model?

What is your primary color control set to? FYI blue is an odd one to do...try pushing hue to the right almost as far as it can go first...see what happens (may make it worse, but I have come across a few that while it appears lowering saturation a lot would move in the target, it actually needs hue moved counterclockwise).

I will try your suggestion. When you say "What is your primary control set to"..do you want me to list the current values I have set for the three primaries? I will post shortly with that.

I will try your suggestion. When you say "What is your primary control set to"..do you want me to list the current values I have set for the three primaries? I will post shortly with that.

No sorry....in the standard color/tint controls in the main menu...what are they set to?

No sorry....in the standard color/tint controls in the main menu...what are they set to?

Hi Jason. I haven't touched the color/tint controls. I only used the RGB gain/offset to set the colour temperature, and then went straight to the CMS, followed by the gamma.

I got the blue better, not quite the way you said...but just more and more fiddling, and got it within about 0.4. But I could not get it in the orange centre of the bullseye in Calman...but I did get it into the beige section.

Below is an output run. Should I be concerned by the absolute luminance variation?

Thanks for the help.

Hi Jason. I haven't touched the color/tint controls. I only used the RGB gain/offset to set the colour temperature, and then went straight to the CMS, followed by the gamma.

I got the blue better, not quite the way you said...but just more and more fiddling, and got it within about 0.4. But I could not get it in the orange centre of the bullseye in Calman...but I did get it into the beige section.

Below is an output run. Should I be concerned by the absolute luminance variation?

Thanks for the help.

this picture has the dot in the orange center? did you do another run?

this picture has the dot in the orange center? did you do another run?

Sorry...that is the "overall"..which shows the dot in the orange center. I couldn't get that for the specific blue primary.

As I mentioned before, the colour temperature pointed towards my screen in THX mode was a LOT higher than it should be. At 30% I read 6600 and at 80% I read 7400! But then I turned it to face the projector lens and it became 30% 6400 and at 80% 6900. This is still not wonderful but better. Is this typical accuracy for an HD750/950?

Oddly, I find things look a bit yellowy now having calibrated against the screen! I now read very close to 6500 from 30% through to 100%.

Hope my meter is okay, especially as its an enhanced Calman one!

Sorry...that is the "overall"..which shows the dot in the orange center. I couldn't get that for the specific blue primary.

As I mentioned before, the colour temperature pointed towards my screen in THX mode was a LOT higher than it should be. At 30% I read 6600 and at 80% I read 7400! But then I turned it to face the projector lens and it became 30% 6400 and at 80% 6900. This is still not wonderful but better. Is this typical accuracy for an HD750/950?

Oddly, I find things look a bit yellowy now having calibrated against the screen! I now read very close to 6500 from 30% through to 100%.

Hope my meter is okay, especially as its an enhanced Calman one!

ahh, got it.

you've installed the calibration tables provided with the enhanced Spyder 3?

ahh, got it.

you've installed the calibration tables provided with the enhanced Spyder 3?

Yes. Well it does it automatically. After Calman detects the meter, there is a button you can press that automatically goes to the Calman servers and downloads the specific calibration for the serial number associated with that specific Spyder 3. Rather clever and avoids the risk of losing a CD with the files on it!

Perhaps I have just got used to viewing with a high colour temperature. I was not aware previously that the screen material (grey 0.85 gain) was also responsible for changing the colour temperature to the cool side.

Incidentally, it is worth emphasising, that you should never set the RGB gain or offset values to positive numbers. Although you may lose some contrast when you lower them, you don't want to affect black level. Even +1 on the offsets I noticed raised the black level. I also noticed the same with the brightness control. +1 and you black level is lost.

All of the abbreviated links are broken. ie: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16374865

the error is highlighed in red. It doesn't have the full link info.

I will correct these this afternoon.

Are there any CMS or other calibration differences between the old RS20 and new RS25 or RS35 models? If not, do we really need a new thread for just the RS25 model?

Mark -
This was raised in the original RS20 calibration thread and the problem we were running into was that people couldn't tell which model they were referring to. Additionally, new visitors with an RS25 may not know to go to the RS20 thread. Hence the extensive links (fixed soon) and references to the original thread. If the mods think that this is too redundant that I won't feel hurt if its deleted :)

Every projector varies within a model...I probably have tested more JVC's than anyone and there really is no specific setting that one can copy unfortunately (specifically in terms of grayscale and colors).

Jason-
I usually do not like hypotheticals or generalities, but to get an idea of what the RS-25 is capable of in "THX" mode, would it be fair to say that the RS-25 in "THX" mode is going to be better than the RS-1 and RS-2 after ISF'd. I'm just trying to get a practical idea of what I might expect (e.g. greyscale, color, and what the heck...sharpness) ?
Thanks for comment/comparison.;)
P.S. The THX mode might just be what I'll be using for, oh...about what, 50 hours break-in, before I get an ISF. ?

Mark -
This was raised in the original RS20 calibration thread and the problem we were running into was that people couldn't tell which model they were referring to. Additionally, new visitors with an RS25 may not know to go to the RS20 thread. Hence the extensive links (fixed soon) and references to the original thread. If the mods think that this is too redundant that I won't feel hurt if its deleted :)

That's fine it just seems easier to change the name of the other thread to something like, "The official JVC (RS20, RS25, RS35) calibration thread". But I'm okay if there are multiple calibration threads.


Incidentally, it is worth emphasising, that you should never set the RGB gain or offset values to positive numbers. Although you may lose some contrast when you lower them, you don't want to affect black level. Even +1 on the offsets I noticed raised the black level. I also noticed the same with the brightness control. +1 and you black level is lost.


I just wanted to clarify this because I posted about this with the RS20 and it may have been taken a little out of context. There may be units where setting an RGB offset to +1 or higher is okay. The person doing the calibration should be careful to watch for a loss of contrast though. So I wouldn't word it as being a hard rule, but something to watch out for. The RGB gains on the other hand will all be positive and the thing to balance with this setting is maximum light output at the correct color temp.

That's fine it just seems easier to change the name of the other thread to something like, "The official JVC (RS20, RS25, RS35) calibration thread". But I'm okay if there are multiple calibration threads.


That may make more sense - perhaps the mods can step in and facilitate.

Hi Jason. I haven't touched the color/tint controls. I only used the RGB gain/offset to set the colour temperature, and then went straight to the CMS, followed by the gamma.

I got the blue better, not quite the way you said...but just more and more fiddling, and got it within about 0.4. But I could not get it in the orange centre of the bullseye in Calman...but I did get it into the beige section.

Below is an output run. Should I be concerned by the absolute luminance variation?

Thanks for the help.

Your luminance values are low on most colors...did you try bumping those appropriate ones 1 click? I usually can get Luminance alone less than +/-1.

Can we edit thread title to include RS35/HD990 which is essentially the same projector so calibration related post will be likely related to both machines?

Thanks for this thread. Just got my 950, as well as updated CalMan 3.5 and CalMan-calibrated Spyder3.

Going to be a fun week! :) :)

And then I get to do it all again when my BDII arrives!

Thanks for this thread. Just got my 950, as well as updated CalMan 3.5 and CalMan-calibrated Spyder3.

Going to be a fun week! :) :)

And then I get to do it all again when my BDII arrives!

I am using this same combination. Please do post your results (settings) for greyscale and primaries and secondaries after you are done.

My settings for everything don't look far off from anyone elses except for the blue primary. And I have tried two Calman enhanced Spyder 3s (the first one is faulty...but they matched for blue primary)

Most have a high hue and small adjustments to brightness and saturation. But I find I can't get as close in terms of Delta E with this primary as others and my settings for blue are

Hue -49, Saturation -7, Brightness -1

What I find is that changing any one of the settings radically shifts the others. But I gradually homed in on these for being closest. What bothers me is why I am so far away from anyone else. The colours don't look wrong though. All the projectors vary, but it shouldn't be so radically.

I am using this same combination. Please do post your results (settings) for greyscale and primaries and secondaries after you are done.

My settings for everything don't look far off from anyone elses except for the blue primary. And I have tried two Calman enhanced Spyder 3s (the first one is faulty...but they matched for blue primary)

Most have a high hue and small adjustments to brightness and saturation. But I find I can't get as close in terms of Delta E with this primary as others and my settings for blue are

Hue -49, Saturation -7, Brightness -1

What I find is that changing any one of the settings radically shifts the others. But I gradually homed in on these for being closest. What bothers me is why I am so far away from anyone else. The colours don't look wrong though. All the projectors vary, but it shouldn't be so radically.

You aren't. Don't pay attention to others settings, as I have said before EVERY projector varies. I have had RS25's that I have done that have had similar to this (though admittedly they are more rare...usually hue isn't changed this much). Don't sweat it. :)

BTW - what's the easiest way to see what firmware version one's JVC projector is running?

I've looked in all the menus and can see nothing - so I'm assuming there are other menus I need to enter?

You aren't. Don't pay attention to others settings, as I have said before EVERY projector varies. I have had RS25's that I have done that have had similar to this (though admittedly they are more rare...usually hue isn't changed this much). Don't sweat it. :)

Hi Jason. I appreciate all your help and comments. I do understand that they all vary. It is just I saw a bunch of posts with a high positive hue, and yet I have a high negative one. It just seemed so opposite! But if you have seen ones like this, then I am happy it isn't me doing something stupid.

By the way, the first Spyder I had where I commented everything was green was really a Spyder issue. Although it was calibrated by Spectracal something must have gone wrong with it since then. I actually have both Spyders here. The first one still calibrates where it did before, and everything looks wrong although the graphs say otherwise. I used an i1 display 2 next, and although it is different to the second Spyder (more pinky), both results look reasonable/pleasing.

Interestingly, the second Spyder ends up with results that are remarkably close to the THX mode. In many scenes its actually hard to see the differences at first. It has to be said that the THX mode is really very good indeed to start with.

Also I have used Screen compensation mode A. As I found my grey material exaggerates blue. Mode A is slightly reddish and brings all built-in modes closer to correct.

Sounds good. Now go enjoy it! :)

Sounds good. Now go enjoy it! :)

That really is the easy part. Now I have to pursuade the wife that painting ceilings and walls black is the latest fashion trend in modern living! :D

Pick and choose your battles wisely. :)

That really is the easy part. Now I have to pursuade the wife that painting ceilings and walls black is the latest fashion trend in modern living! :DThey look absolutely gorgeous, not like these vulgar light paints :D

Hey guys, I'm trying to find some good settings for my RS15/HD550. I'm going to wait 200 hrs before having my calibrator come over, but I still want to have a good start off point before then.

The problem is, I am seeing results that are all over the place. I acknowledge that calibration results will vary based on projector and preference, but here are just some discrepancies:

6500k vs 5800k
Gamma=Normal vs Gamma=D
Low Lamp vs High Lamp (Arts review reported a dip in Color Temp at 30 IRE in high lamp mode, whereas low lamp mode did not have this)

Check out the post-calibration settings of the following reviews:

Mike English HD550 Review
http://www.projector.com/reviews/jvc/DLAHD550.php

Arts RS25 Review
http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/dla-rs25/calibration.php

Worfs HD550 Review
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cinetson.org%2FphpBB3%2Fprojecteurs-f2%2Ftest-jvc-hd550-resume-page-t30798.html&sl=fr&tl=en

I am clueless when it comes to calibration, and am considering a Spyder 3 elite because I am really overdue for some knowledge in this area. Any suggestions are appreciated guys. Thanks.

Jason-
I usually do not like hypotheticals or generalities, but to get an idea of what the RS-25 is capable of in "THX" mode, would it be fair to say that the RS-25 in "THX" mode is going to be better than the RS-1 and RS-2 after ISF'd. I'm just trying to get a practical idea of what I might expect (e.g. greyscale, color, and what the heck...sharpness) ?
Thanks for comment/comparison.;)
P.S. The THX mode might just be what I'll be using for, oh...about what, 50 hours break-in, before I get an ISF. ?

Absolutely. The RS1/2 only had limited grayscale ability and no CMS at all. The RS25 in THX will be much much better.

Hi All,

Need help understanding the "Pixel Adjust" menu. What do I look for when adjusting it? Is this for adjusting the convergence?

Thanks,
Chris

Hi All,

Need help understanding the "Pixel Adjust" menu. What do I look for when adjusting it? Is this for adjusting the convergence?

Thanks,
Chris

You need to throw up a grid test pattern so that you can see how far off (if at all) the panels are. Then it will allow you to adjust the convergence.

Hey guys, I'm trying to find some good settings for my RS15/HD550. I'm going to wait 200 hrs before having my calibrator come over, but I still want to have a good start off point before then.

The problem is, I am seeing results that are all over the place. I acknowledge that calibration results will vary based on projector and preference, but here are just some discrepancies:

6500k vs 5800k
Gamma=Normal vs Gamma=D
Low Lamp vs High Lamp (Arts review reported a dip in Color Temp at 30 IRE in high lamp mode, whereas low lamp mode did not have this)

Check out the post-calibration settings of the following reviews:

Mike English HD550 Review
http://www.projector.com/reviews/jvc/DLAHD550.php

Arts RS25 Review
http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/dla-rs25/calibration.php

Worfs HD550 Review
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cinetson.org%2FphpBB3%2Fprojecteurs-f2%2Ftest-jvc-hd550-resume-page-t30798.html&sl=fr&tl=en

I am clueless when it comes to calibration, and am considering a Spyder 3 elite because I am really overdue for some knowledge in this area. Any suggestions are appreciated guys. Thanks.

Not surprising. I seem like a broken record, but every projector is different. If all of these were properly done, the end results were probably about the same.

Do you have a test disc of any kind? That would be a good place to start.

BTW - what's the easiest way to see what firmware version one's JVC projector is running?

I've looked in all the menus and can see nothing - so I'm assuming there are other menus I need to enter?

I have the same question.

Also, how does on upgrade the firmware on this projector?

I have the same question.

Also, how does on upgrade the firmware on this projector?

You can see the firmware in the service menu (up, down, right, left, enter...very quickly;) ) though I can't remember which 'tab' it's under, it's definately in there on the HD350.

I updated my firmware ages ago (it was a fix to improve remote sensitivity) and I used a USB lead with the very small type connector (like on a camera). The USB socket is under a flap on the far right of the connection panel on the projector.