View Full Version : Wiring for Projector- Need Help ASAP. Finishing basement, about to put in sheetrock


kevinnho
11-10-09, 06:06 PM
Hi,
I'm about to put sheetrocks on, and would like to have it pre-wired for projector. Can you tell me what's needed for pre-wiring?

HDMI?
Audio Cable?
Power Cable?

Will that be all?

I want to make sure that it's done right before the sheetrocks go on.

kevinnho
11-10-09, 06:14 PM
The projector will be used for satellite/cable, video gaming, dvd viewing.

It will be hooked to surround sound with amp/receiver

MacBuster
11-10-09, 06:23 PM
I ran a Cat5e (just cuz I'm compulsive about running it everywhere I have the opportunity).

HDMI, which is zip tied to the outside of a conduit I also ran to the location.

Sheridan1952
11-10-09, 06:27 PM
No audio to the projector, that is running from your sources to the sound system. You will want any and every possibility for Video in place that the projector can take, whether you use it now or not. That means HDMI, Component and anything else the projector may take.

HDMI can be tricky and you are probably looking at an HDMI booster/extender.

If this is an installation that will be around for awhile, then I would "future-proof" it by adding a conduit for wiring that isn't here yet.

And of course, power. Do not allow the Video lines to run parallel to the power feed.

y2k02c5
11-10-09, 08:44 PM
When you guys say conduit, are you referring to something like a PVC pipe to run the cables through?

Sheridan1952
11-10-09, 08:57 PM
PVC is fine and easy to work with.

BIGmouthinDC
11-10-09, 09:38 PM
Be sure to use SWEEPING curves not sharp 90s. The bigger size conduit the better.

What is the distance from your equipment rack area to the projector?

TF Ghost
11-11-09, 08:27 AM
Also, make sure you test the cables before installing them. You don't want to permanently install defective equipment...

elmalloc
11-11-09, 08:52 AM
Make sure you limit HDMI cable runs to 50 ft. If not, you better buy some super high quality crap from monoprice or bluejeanscable.

You may also think about running component cabling if your receiver/processor doesn't support HDMI upconversion.

kevinnho
11-14-09, 03:07 PM
So run conduit and use component cables and hdmi cables.

I can find cheap component cables, I'd need probably 25ft. The distance from projector to unit is about 10 ft or so.

The bluejeans' hdmi- are they decent quality? I look at some sites, and those 25ft hdmi aren't cheap at all.

K-Spaz
11-14-09, 05:18 PM
I would also install a pull string for later use. Double the required length plus a little, and secured off at both ends so it can't fall in the tube.

mnnc
11-14-09, 07:31 PM
So run conduit and use component cables and hdmi cables.

I can find cheap component cables, I'd need probably 25ft. The distance from projector to unit is about 10 ft or so.

The bluejeans' hdmi- are they decent quality? I look at some sites, and those 25ft hdmi aren't cheap at all.

The BJ cables are more than decent...exc...and they ARE inexpensive. Many users have had great success w/ the monoprice hdmi...both he 22 and 28 ga. They seem to be well built and work great.

novasol
11-14-09, 07:36 PM
No reason to use pvc pipe...run flexible metal conduit that you can bend and will hold it's shape.

pottscb
11-15-09, 09:06 AM
I would advise Cat5, 2XHDMI (monoprice), and a single composite just in case all else fails you can still get a video signal to the pj.

Tweakophyte
11-15-09, 09:15 AM
I say it depends on how you'll use your setup. I think one HDMI, 3 Coax (for component), and 1 or 2 Cat 5e. Most receivers have very clean HDMI switching built in, as well as conversion from other formats to HDMI, so if you are looking for a single cable, do HDMI. I like having component as a backup, but it is no longer needed in my setup.

Cat 5e is very useful, as many types of signals can be modified to run across it. You can also use it for 12v triggers and IR relays.

What distance are you thinking about?

By the way, you might as well put a dedicated power outlet near your projector mounting area. Power needs to be run separately from the low-voltage signals.

Negative Entropy
11-15-09, 02:34 PM
Do not forget that in all (US) jurisdictions I am aware of, any 120V work will need to be inspected before the drywall goes up or they can force you to take it down (this assuming you're doing permitted work).

Think about if you want to use surge protection on your projector - your options are limited with a ceiling outlet (special outlet or breaker being the primary two).

I'll jump on the conduit bandwagon. Several notes about that:
1) I used the Carlon product, I liked it overall. PVC would be my second choice.
2) Do your homework on mounting location -- use the projectorcentral calculator with several typical projectors to get a feel for where it should be mounted.
3) Use 2" conduit (ID) or larger for this run.
4) Leave a pull string/tape in the conduit as previously noted.
5) Do not run it parallel, within 16" of any 120V lines. Where it needs to cross a 120V line, approach and cross at right angles.

edit: I added a plywood plate in between my ceiling trusses to use as a mounting board -- you may want to consider that or something similar.

Good luck.

BobL
11-15-09, 03:18 PM
PVC is better if you ever lose the pull string, all the little ridges snag when trying to snake something with the carlon. >2" holes is too big unless it is a 2x6 wall or the studs are doubled. For load bearing walls 1.5" is max.

Bob