Sorry

I am sure this has been asked before.

I have found thermafiber insulation. And to me that has been a feat on it's own around my area.

Now I am planning/in the process of building a theatre/family/bar room.

I understand that the sheetrock/resillent channel plus mineral wool is kinda the cats pajamas when doing this type of thing.

My question is that if I was to use 3" thermafiber with 5/8" sheetrock directly to joices, would I gain anything?

Because personaly I'm looking at the 2 in the basement and really cant see how that would do much of anything. (had the wife walking on floor above, and she aint that big)

Now from what I read.

Airgap is the biggest killer of sound.

So If one was to support the thermafiber up say 3" and then screw in drywall. I would say that there is a airgap to bounce waves back and forth and thus muffled?

I'm long winded, and I'm sorry about that.

And I have a pile of 3" thermafiber. (hey I finnaly found it and its cheap!)

In my opinion your plans will leave you very disappointed if containing the sound track of an action drama is your goal.

Firmly attaching drywall to the ceiling joists turns the floor above into a giant passive radiator. Doesn't matter what air gap or insulation you use, the source of sound transfer will be the mechanical vibration of the floor system.

I understand that the sheetrock/resillent channel plus mineral wool is kinda the cats pajamas when doing this type of thing.

My question is that if I was to use 3" thermafiber with 5/8" sheetrock directly to joices, would I gain anything?

Two things:

1) Cats pyjamas? Awesome expression man haha

2) No, decouple from the joists. After doing hours and hours of research in the last couple of months (after knowing absolutely NOTHING) about this topic, you NEED to decouple your drywall ceiling from your joists. Otherwise, as BigM said, your entire ceiling/floor above becomes a giant zone for noise transfer.

Best tried and true system is to install R19 fiberglass in the joist cavity. The apply some sort of decoupling system. Could be clips + channel (most common) or true floating joists (less common). Then apply as much mass as you can, often double 5/8" drywall. Lastly damp the panels with one of a number of damping compounds.

Avoid poking holes in your new ceiling. Ceiling can lights require backer boxes to contain the sound.

In my opinion your plans will leave you very disappointed if containing the sound track of an action drama is your goal.

Not exactly what I'm going for. But Figure I should do it right the first time, ya know.



Firmly attaching drywall to the ceiling joists turns the floor above into a giant passive radiator. Doesn't matter what air gap or insulation you use, the source of sound transfer will be the mechanical vibration of the floor system.

I was kinda figuring I'd get this kinda response, figured better ask someone that knows more first.

From pretty much everything I read they say Mineral wool only way to go.

So now I'm looking at resillint channel I assume.

Thanks for the reply BTW

Best tried and true system is to install R19 fiberglass in the joist cavity. The apply some sort of decoupling system. Could be clips + channel (most common) or true floating joists (less common). Then apply as much mass as you can, often double 5/8" drywall. Lastly damp the panels with one of a number of damping compounds.

Avoid poking holes in your new ceiling. Ceiling can lights require backer boxes to contain the sound.


Really Fiberglass?

Now im confused.

Almost all the articles and such I read say figerglass a no no, mineral wool way to go.

Crap, crap, crap, I took all my fiberglass back the other day cuz all I read said mineral wool. because of the density.

I can get the channel for 2.40 a 12' stick. Not so sure on the clips.

This place I'm talking about does all sorts of commercial drywall supplies so I'm guessing they may have them.

More questions to come!

Yay for you guys right?

Two things:

1) Cats pyjamas? Awesome expression man haha

2) No, decouple from the joists. After doing hours and hours of research in the last couple of months (after knowing absolutely NOTHING) about this topic, you NEED to decouple your drywall ceiling from your joists. Otherwise, as BigM said, your entire ceiling/floor above becomes a giant zone for noise transfer.


1) HAHA never heard the Cats Pajamas before huh?

2) Yep after approximatly 5 posts here I'm thinking thats the general concensus. Gonna havta find a supplier for them clips.

Ted White (who posted in your thread) at the Soundproofing Company sells the clips amongst many other things. Give him a call, there area a variety of clips, some of which can be very cost effective.

So now I'm looking at resilient channel I assume.


No,

You should read the library of articles at soundproofingcompany.com

My next theater will use the whisper clips, hat channel (not resilient) two layers of 5/8 drywall and Green Glue.

Really Fiberglass?

Now im confused.

Almost all the articles and such I read say figerglass a no no, mineral wool way to go.

There's a real love of the Mineral Fiber within some circles. And it works great. If you already have it, then go ahead and use it. Fiberglass is generally cheaper (in the US) is one point. Just don't compress or overstuff.

I can get the channel for 2.40 a 12' stick.

Generally a 7/8" Drywall Furring Channel is going to run you twice that. You need to be extremely careful to get the right type: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/furring_channel_with_resilient_sound_clips/

Generally a 7/8" Drywall Furring Channel is going to run you twice that. You need to be extremely careful to get the right type: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/furring_channel_with_resilient_sound_clips/


Found some 7/8 furring channel

Yes sir 100% correct on the twice that. $4.74

And low and behold nobody at the store knew anything about the clips you mentioned. So looks like I'm throwing a little throwing a little money your way.

The way I understand I'm thinking is 3 clips per 12' stick (48" spacing), sticks 2' apart.

Am I right?

I think my final room size will be 13' by 24-26' (the length can be anywhere as of now)

I think my final room size will be 13' by 24-26' (the length can be anywhere as of now)

I am by no means an expert, but be careful when setting up your room dimensions as this will affect the next big key to your theater room: acoustics.

I would shoot for 25' or less to make sure you do not have room dimensions that are equal multiples of each other. What you will get is huge peaks or nulls in certain frequencies that no eq could fix. It will not matter how good your equipment is if your room will not allow it to play at its best. ;)

You can search room calculator in the forum and there is a spreadsheet that was made by one of the members that you can use as a guide.