Finishing my basement. Layout is attached. Had a few updates via photoshop so don't mind the lighting plan (or other) inconsistencies. Materials are being delivered tomorrow. Working with a contractor/friend so progress should happen quickly. Hope to have some pics up soon. I'm sure to have a lot of questions for you guys along the way. Questions/comments welcome.

Wall constructiom for the theater will be DD with GG on a staggared stud wall (2x6 plates and 2x4 staggered studs) for 3 of the 4 walls. The wall against the foundation will be a regular 2x4 wall with DD and GG. Ceiling will use clips and channel with DD and GG. Insulation throughout. Both soffits will contain duct supply runs. It is rigid duct but it will be lined on the interior.

Take a look at the pic. First question I have is, notice the bump out on the back wall? That is the support for the masonry fireplace on the 1st floor. Should I just put a straight wall in front of it or should I try to use the cutout for something inside the theater?

I started a checklist in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1188480

Then someone pointed me to this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1043747

I've been using them as references for my build so far.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/floorplan.jpg

You could put your equipment stack in the bump out. I don't see a spot picked for that.

It would be a good idea to do a preliminary floor plan of the theater to be sure everything is going to work. Show the seating locations, viewing distances, screen size, location of stage, riser, columns, speakers and equipment. The last thing you want to happen is to wish you had built it 10 inches deeper once you have your drywall up.

I'll be the first of many to caution you on the use of a double door which will be harder to soundproof.

I might rethink the bar location as it is plunked down smack in the middle of that big area making it difficult to put a pool table etc in there. It looks like you have alternatives so just something to think about.

Thanks Bigmouth!

The bumpout is completely encased in concrete block. I'd be afraid of the heat in there. There probably would be enough room to snake the exhaust and wires through a rear soffit but I was thinkin of placing the rack in the top left corner of the Family Room. There will be built ins along that top wall. I would use a dual out system to control both the family room tv and the theater. This way, you could play PS3, watch a movie or tv, etc in either location.

The bar is not to scale obviously. I just plopped it in there myself with paint so I could get the thread up. There will be enough room between the gym and the bar for pool/air hockey, foosball, darts, etc.

Wife wants double doors. I'll make the call at framing time. (probably this weekend). Drawing is just to submit for the permits. My buddy is trying to talk me out of the double doors also. Either way, the doors need to move to the left some more. Right now they are too close to the screen wall/stage.

Right now, I've allowed 2 feet between the room wall and the screen wall. Do you think that is sufficient? That leaves the finished space about 25X16.

You are right that there are a lot of options. I've agonized over the layout for weeks/months (feels like years. lost sleep over it. I've seen floor plans in my dreams). All feedback.questions are welcome. Because walls start going up on Friday!!!

EDIT: BTW, I was thinking of using that dead space just below the stairs (where it says 8' and just to the left of the Furnace 'F') for a wine closet. Thoughts?

OK Big. You have me walking around in the basement again. lol. Thank god it's a slow week at work. Where would you put the bar area? Here are some (crappy iphone) pics of the space. We are doing a bunch of 'old work' on HVAC to make sure all the runs are in soffits. The one you see down the center of the theater will be moved to the foundation wall.

Bathroom looking towards Gym
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bathroomlookingtowardsgym2.jpg

Gym looking towards Bathroom
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/gymlookingtowardsbathroom2.jpg

Theater looking towards Family Room/Storage
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/theaterlookingtowardsstorage.jpg

Storage/Family Room looking towards Theater
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/storagelookingtowardstheater2.jpg

Where would you put the bar area?

May not be to exact scale but you get the idea. It leaves the most open areas for all your current and future game machines. I would also plan a soffit over the entire bar area to set it off. you also could do a round version in the same space if you wanted to tackle that.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC02909.jpg

I do like the idea of anchoring the bar against a wall. I was just downstairs measuring those exact spaces. I'd have to see if I can pitch the sink drain enough to make it all the way over to the bathroom. Thank you for the suggestion.

Another vote to eliminate the double door - unless you do it right (read $$$) you will have a problem with sound leakage. Given the rest of your space, I assume you will want to use the theater as well as have other activities so do not under-estimate the need for sound containment.

Best of luck.

If you can't pitch it enough you can always use the reservoir under the sink with a pump out that goes up an over. They make these devices just for this situation, They are designed for wet bars and washing machines etc where the drain line is far away. It is kind of a miniature sump pump system that sits in a bucket under the sink. Good enough for a wet bar.

I just bought this one (approx $200). Very small and can do internal trap.
http://www.zoellerpumps.com/ProductBenefit.aspx?ProductID=62

You'll need an external vent though if you can't tie into an existing one. Most of these don't want a AAV used and your local code may also prohibit it.

I just bought this one (approx $200). Very small and can do internal trap.
http://www.zoellerpumps.com/ProductBenefit.aspx?ProductID=62

You'll need an external vent though if you can't tie into an existing one. Most of these don't want a AAV used and your local code may also prohibit it.

If you can't pitch it enough you can always use the reservoir under the sink with a pump out that goes up an over. They make these devices just for this situation, They are designed for wet bars and washing machines etc where the drain line is far away. It is kind of a miniature sump pump system that sits in a bucket under the sink. Good enough for a wet bar.

My SaniFlo (http://saniflo.com/) (SaniPlus) system uses a similar technique. SaniFlo has a whole range of pumps and maceraters.

I'm very happy with mine.

Another vote to eliminate the double door - unless you do it right (read $$$) you will have a problem with sound leakage. Given the rest of your space, I assume you will want to use the theater as well as have other activities so do not under-estimate the need for sound containment.

Best of luck.

I've found a few double door astragals at a few soundproofing sites. They don't seem too expensive. Of course you are doubling the whole price of a single door, door bottoms, jamb kits, and then adding the double door astragal cost on top of that so the whole entrance cost is not cheap.

Studs, plates, shots, and fire stops were just delivered. Now the fun begins. Delivery guy wouldn't let me play with the moffitt. :(

another vote to move the bar out of the centre of the wall and into a corner.


also, how many furnaces do you have!? ;) I count 3. LOL.

another vote to move the bar out of the centre of the wall and into a corner.


also, how many furnaces do you have!? ;) I count 3. LOL.

Yes three. First floor, second floor, and the third was added for a bonus room on the first floor. Way too much furnace for one room ( even if it is big). We calced it out and this furnace is big enough to feed the basement also. We'll add electronic dampers and the basement will get it's own thermostat.

The only thing I'm worried about with the bar in the corner is that becomes a very high traffic area right in front of the theater doors.

Getting all the lumber and fire stops into the basement this morning!

Lumber is in the basement now. Firestops are cut.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/lumber.jpg

I'm really torn on the whole bar topic. I really do like the idea of anchoring it in that corner but still concerned about not enough distance between the bar and the theater entrance. I thought about flipping the theater and moving the doors further down on the wall but that was nixed by the wifey. How much room is necessary between the backbar and the counter? Is 3 feet enough? If that's the case then the minumum bar depth is 7 ft. (2ft back bar, 3 feet work area, 2ft bar counter). That obviously does not include the stools. Finished wall to finished wall will be around 15'8". If you allow 18-24" for the stools that leaves about 6.5ft between the back of the stool and he finished theater wall and even tighter with people sitting at the bar. Door swing is 2.5 feet which comes within 4 ft of the bar stools. I think this would be by far, the most congested area in the basement. Is my concern valid or am I over thinking this?

Lumber is in the basement now. Firestops are cut.

I'm really torn on the whole bar topic. I really do like the idea of anchoring it in that corner but still concerned about not enough distance between the bar and the theater entrance. I thought about flipping the theater and moving the doors further down on the wall but that was nixed by the wifey. How much room is necessary between the backbar and the counter? Is 3 feet enough? If that's the case then the minumum bar depth is 7 ft. (2ft back bar, 3 feet work area, 2ft bar counter). That obviously does not include the stools. Finished wall to finished wall will be around 15'8". If you allow 18-24" for the stools that leaves about 6.5ft between the back of the stool and he finished theater wall and even tighter with people sitting at the bar. Door swing is 2.5 feet which comes within 4 ft of the bar stools. I think this would be by far, the most congested area in the basement. Is my concern valid or am I over thinking this?

Have you tried laying out the theater wall and two bar locations with masking tape on the floor? It may be difficult now with the wood pile, but an hour of your time could alleviate all your worry about the decision... Just a suggestion. Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!

Have you tried laying out the theater wall and two bar locations with masking tape on the floor? It may be difficult now with the wood pile, but an hour of your time could alleviate all your worry about the decision... Just a suggestion. Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!

I will have to do that once the walls are up. Thanks for the suggestion. I was down there measuring a bunch and the wood is in the way now. Until then, I will just stress over the whole thing for the next week or so! Any idea on the my question about the distance between the back bar and the counter? That will help me accurately lay it out with some blue tape.

Personally, I love the design of the bar being in front of the entrance to the theater. I think it adds something to the entrance that a plain wall wouldn't. It's the first thing people see when they are about to go in and the first thing they see when they leave. Perfect!

By the way, I'm also using double doors as an entrance to our theater room. I'm going to be looking at several options to help keep sound in, so I'll pass on the information and results once I have the door hung.

By the way, I'm also using double doors as an entrance to our theater room. I'm going to be looking at several options to help keep sound in, so I'll pass on the information and results once I have the door hung.

Pemko has a ton of options for astragals.

http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=products.productListing&searchName=Search+by+Category&openFilter=loadCategorySearch&ratingIds=&categoryId=892&subcategoryId=904&productMaterialId=

They also have some really nice options for fully mortised automatic door bottoms.

http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=products.productListing&searchName=Search+by+Category&openFilter=loadCategorySearch&ratingIds=&categoryId=894&subcategoryId=917&productMaterialId=

One thing I found useful in evaluating layout alternatives and critical dimensions is to use kitchen chairs and to position the backs of the chairs at the dimension under review. I tried the blue tape on the floor but to actually see it at waist level is entirely different.

One thing I found useful in evaluating layout alternatives and critical dimensions is to use kitchen chairs and to position the backs of the chairs at the dimension under review. I tried the blue tape on the floor but to actually see it at waist level is entirely different.


Thanks, BIG. We have a few kitchen bar stools around our island so i'll use those. Coincidentally, between the kitchen island and the sink is about 4' and between the island and the cooktop is a little over 3' so I have an idea about the workspace. I think about 3.5 feet would be ideal. I have a sketch I'll get up in a min. It is based on your design.

It is 7' deep with 3' between the back bar and the bar counter. 7 stools. I was hoping for 8 but I can't really go any wider. Left wall extends 5 feet so counter would angle right off the wall. Do you think that it will look weird (unbalanced) with the bar counter extending 5ft passed the back bar?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/barsketch.jpg

Something I have tucked in my mind for bar planning is a minimum of 28 inches elbow to elbow for stool placement.

Something I have tucked in my mind for bar planning is a minimum of 28 inches elbow to elbow for stool placement.

Thanks. A site I found listed 21-25. the corners have 34 in this setup. The 4 in a row have 27. The one near the bar entrance would be the tightest at 24. I think it would work.

Something to consider is you could use wall cabinets which are 12 inches deep installed at the floor with a counter top in that one area to gain more storage and balance the feel of that one area. Then you could also run wall cabinets above out to the end of the bar for looks.

I would use an angled transition strip between the 24 and 12 inch deep cabinets.

Something to consider is you could use wall cabinets which are 12 inches deep installed at the floor with a counter top in that one area to gain more storage and balance the feel of that one area. Then you could also run wall cabinets above out to the end of the bar for looks.

I would use an angled transition strip between the 24 and 12 inch deep cabinets.

I actualled considered 12" cabinets for the entire back bar but think that might look weird. In any event, I think I'm convinced I can make it work so I'm not going to sweat it anymore until we get the walls up.

The plates are in and I measured out the theater. Accounting for the DD, the finished room will be 15' 10.5" by 26' 3.5". About what I expected on the width but about 6" less than I projected on the length. I hope I can still make a 3rd row bar work. I might have to steal a few inches from my screen wall. I think I will also frame out that bump out area in the rear of the theater so the middle stools have a little extra room. (Thats the area that looks like '[' next to the wall shared by the theater and the unfiunished storage.)

OK, here's a sketch of what the theater layout might look like. A few questions for anyone to comment.

1) Berkline recommends 36" between rows. Is that reclineds or unreclined? It looks like many don't give much room between a reclined 2nd row and the back of the first row. Right now the sketch has 18" between a reclined 2nd row chair and the back of a first row chair. Is this too much? too little? just right?

2) BTW, dimensions are based on four 088, 086, or 032 for rows 1 and 2. I see a lot of people who have their second row mimic thier first row. Shouldn't the first and 2nd rows have staggared seating? Even with a riser, a reclined 2nd row can't see over an unreclined head in the first row if the seating arrangements are identical.

3) I've allowed 2' for my screen wall and and additional 3' for my stage. Does this seem reasonable? This is the overall shape I'm going for:

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n105/johnnyq627/house/basement/theater/stage/DSCN2097_fix.jpg

4) 18" counter and bar stools for the 3rd row. 5ft allotted for counter and stools. This is all I think I cna spare. So the questions is, should I sheetrock over that optional bump out or include it in the room and finish it for at least some additional space for the middle two stools?

5) 5'0" double doors will sit in the middle between stage and unreclined first row. This puts them from 5.5 to 10.5 marks. Just a sanity check. Does this look OK? Plate for the door will go down tomorrow morning. Please do not start the single door vs double door debate again. Thanks.

6) aisles are 39" each not including any allowance for columns. I'm assuming this is about as narrow as I should go. The far aisle is likely to be rarely used with the doors on the near walls. I think I would rather keep the room balanced but wanted to hear thoughts on sacrificing the far aisle for additional seating.

All feedback welcome. Thanks for the comments so far.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/layout.jpg

1) a riser that is 6 ft 8 inches deep is just enough so that you don't kick the seat in front of you but the people on the outside will have to lower their footrests for people to pass which usually isn't a problem. Any thing more is gravy and if you want to save a few inches for the back this is one area. Yours is drawn at 7 ft which will be very comfortable. Something else to consider is that the ideal viewing position is rarely fully reclined.

2) staggering seats shouldn't be required if you plan your riser height correctly

3) sounds OK, but you should make a preliminary review of potential speaker selections to make sure they would fit.

4) that bump gives more breathing room behind the back row and I would claim it for the theater rather than drywalling it over. It makes for additional standing room only space. I'm sure you will find something to put back there.

5) looks OK

6) a 39 inch aisle is HUGE, 30 is generous 24 is doable. Take that into account with your seating configuration and you might be able to configure your seating so that not everyone has to share an armrest. Use the on-line seating planner to verify configuration widths. However staying as far away from the side walls puts more seats closer to the audio/visual sweet spots so you have to balance comfort with performance.

Thanks, BIG.

Appreciate all the help. Looks like you're turning into my personal design consultant. LOL. About half the framing got done today.

As far as your speaker question goes, I'm looking at a B&W setup. I have a Custom Series (http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?sc=ht&infid=3496) in-wall setup in my Family room and I'm very happy with them. They have lots of options that should fit behind that screen wall. For example, the B&W CM9's (http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=3986) are only 14.6" deep.

Staggared stud wall is started. That's a lot of studs!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/staggaredstuds.jpg

What do you think about nixing the whole third row idea and utilizing the entire width of the room for the back row? Looks like this layout would work. Room is 190.5 wide. 2nd row seat layout is 185". This still leaves me 2.75" on each side for acoustical treatments to the walls. Total layout still gets me 12 seats and the first row can move back 3 or 4 feet. aisles on each side would be 25.25" before wall treatments.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/berks.jpg

What do you think about nixing the whole third row idea and utilizing the entire width of the room for the back row? Looks like this layout would work. Room is 190.5 wide. 2nd row seat layout is 185". This still leaves me 2.75" on each side for acoustical treatments to the walls. Total layout still gets me 12 seats and the first row can move back 3 or 4 feet. aisles on each side would be 25.25" before wall treatments.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/berks.jpg

Bump for my seat layout question. Thoughts?

A longer seating distance = the need for a larger screen. What would be your viewing distances and proposed screen size? Also time to start the 16:9 versus 2.35 quandary.

A longer seating distance = the need for a larger screen. What would be your viewing distances and proposed screen size? Also time to start the 16:9 versus 2.35 quandary.

I want the largest screen that I can possibly fit. something in the neighborhood of 12ft wide. I'm going 2.35 with masking for 16:9 content. The Carada site has some good tools to see the size differences.

With the third row counter, back of first row chairs was at 12ft. So probably 11ft viewing distance. A little close if you ask me.

With only two rows, I can push the first row back to 14-16ft with viewing distance 13-15ft. A little more comfortable I think. Back row would be closer to the back of the room. Maybe 2ft off the bakc wall. I could use a curved setup. I would lose a few seats but its an option.

Good news, all the walls in the theater are up. They did it this week while I was away on business.

Bad news, they ran the walls floor to ceiling meaning the top plate is right up against the floor joists.

I'm having the contractor cut it down and install DC-04 clips.

First disaster encountered and averted. Like I always say, "Projects have issues".

Also time to start the 16:9 versus 2.35 quandary.

Do you really want to go there...?

Do you really want to go there...?

Already went. 2.35. No quandry.

First disaster encountered and averted. Like I always say, "Projects have issues".

Looks like your contractor is Old School and you are going to need to check all the unique construction requirements every step of the way. I would also summarize in writing all the special sound proofing measures you are taking in writing and give a copy to the contractor as a reminder. I would also tape a copy of the list up in a conspicuous place for his foreman as a reference.

I'm having the contractor cut it down and install DC-04 clips.



Good catch. Big has a great suggestion, there.

I about to start construction on my own theater

I would also tape a copy of the list up in a conspicuous place for his foreman as a reference.

I killed a small forest printing out all the installation manuals form The Soundproofing Company. I placed them all in a manila enveliope and tacked it to one of the door frames.

Where in Jersey do you live?

Central Jersey. Why is that relevent?

Quick question... I order tubes SilenSeal along with my pails of GG. I got the pails of GG but what I received in tubes is in the picture below. It is Green Glue Noiseproofing Sealant. I assume this is the same thing as SilenSeal? Did GG change the name? It says "use to seal edges and joints" on the tube so I assume this the right stuff. At first I thought I was shipped tubes of GG instead of SilenSeal.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/GGsealant.jpg

Central Jersey. Why is that relevent?
Fun. We just completed a screening room in New Jersey (Hanover area) and have one under construction in New York.

Fun. We just completed a screening room in New Jersey (Hanover area) and have one under construction in New York.

Are these in public locations? Any pics?

Private residences.

Found my seat of choice (for this week anyway :) )

Berkline 45030 - The Marquee. They are not listed on the Products (http://www.berkline.com/ht/products.html)or the theater planner (http://www.berkline.com/ht/planner.html)page. The only place they are listed in on the main HT (http://www.berkline.com/ht/index.htmlpage).

Dimensions seem to work well in my space. First row of straight 4 and back row of straight 6 gives me 10 seats.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/45030.jpg

According to this source that was discontinued and only available until 11/30, you should double check availability. Just to be sure you saw it:

http://www.rtheaters.com/powerbuy/berkline.html

According to this source that was discontinued and only available until 11/30, you should double check availability. Just to be sure you saw it:

http://www.rtheaters.com/powerbuy/berkline.html


Interesting, the video here calls it one of their newest models:
http://www.berkline.com/ht/45030/pr_45030.html

All the walls have been cut down and DC04 clips installed.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/DC04_installed.jpg

Two quick questions:
1) I will have 3 metal support posts that hold up a steel beam. These posts will be buried inside my staggered stud wall. Do I need to do anything to treat these posts?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/steel.jpg

2) Similar question but for a pvc radon pipe. The pipe will be INSIDE the theater walls but behind my screen wall. The pipe is in the corner and will be behind an OC703 bass trap. Anything else I need to do with it?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/radon.jpg

Finally, We got my son a PS3 for Christmas. Does it make me a bad parent if I already have it installed in my Master Bedroom to "test" it out to insure it works properly? ;) Killzone 2 is pretty fun. Wife won't like the language though (if she ever finds out)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/killzone2.jpg

Sorry for the blurry cell phone pics.

Bueller??

Also, on the HVAC front, I assume I should replace ALL rigid ducts that pass through the joists above my theater with flex duct and not just the ducts that will be actually in the theater?

Will this lose sufficient efficiency? I have several ducts that will be between the joists above the theater ceiling that feed the second floor.

EDIT: Here is the stuff I bought.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/flex.jpg

Bueller??

Also, on the HVAC front, I assume I should replace ALL rigid ducts that pass through the joists above my theater with flex duct and not just the ducts that will be actually in the theater?

Will this lose sufficient efficiency? I have several ducts that will be between the joists above the theater ceiling that feed the second floor.

Do you don't need to treat the support poles given that the walls are decoupled. Just loosely fill the wall with insulation.

As for your HVAC question, that's what I did.

If you properly attenuate the sound in the duct that's in the room before it finally exits the room, you can safely use rigid duct in the joist cavity. The operative word is before...
You can't use the space in the walls or ceiling cavity to attenuate sound.

If you properly attenuate the sound in the duct that's in the room before it finally exits the room, you can safely use rigid duct in the joist cavity. The operative word is before...
You can't use the space in the walls or ceiling cavity to attenuate sound.

Thanks Ted. I am using whisper clips purchased from you and hat channel on the ceiling with 5/8 DD and GG in between. Is this sufficient or is there something else I would also need to do to the ceiling?

Do you don't need to treat the support poles given that the walls are decoupled. Just loosely fill the wall with insulation.

As for your HVAC question, that's what I did.

Thanks. I was wondering because you can bang on the post and hear it throughout the house. Wasn't sure if I needed to wrap it. Should I wrap the radon pipe since it will be inside the theater? Or is it ok since it will be behind the OC703 bass trap?

No, but you would want to have a soffit with a duct inside to act as a muffler to reduce the noise before allowing the air to leave the room.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/media/cim/spc-soffit-construction.gif

I was actually asking about the runs that pass through the ceiling but are not connected to the theater in any way. The runs are from a different furnace but pass through the joist cavity above the theater to supply heat and AC to the rooms above.

I have three furnaces in the basement. One for first floor, one for secong floor, and a third for a bonus room on the 1st floor and will also control the basement on an electronic damper.

Any supply/return that will actually enter or exit the theater wall will be flex. What I was specifically referring to was the runs that supply the first or second floor that occupy the space between the joists above the theater ceiling. Still OK to us rigid or should I swap it out for flex?

BTW, thanks for the quick ship on the GG and clips. Everything arrived well before I needed it.

ahhhh... You can leave them be. Just be careful not to try and jamb (compress) insulation between the ceiling drywall and the ducts. The compression can conduct vibration, which would be a bad thing.

ahhhh... You can leave them be. Just be careful not to try and jamb (compress) insulation between the ceiling drywall and the ducts. The compression can conduct vibration, which would be a bad thing.

That's the thing. They are already getting replaced because the main trunk was relocated so it will not be in the middle of the room and will now be along the wall in a soffit. So if they are already replacing the runs, would it be in my best interest to just have them do it in flex? Seems like it would be the wise choice since they already need to be replaced. You still have time to talk me out of it though. LOL. The HVAC guys are going to kill me before this is done.

Well, there would be some advantage to having flex with insulation rather than metal, but there will be increased resistance to airflow also. A great deal of extra flex may throw off their airflow calcs.

Well, there would be some advantage to having flex with insulation rather than metal, but there will be increased resistance to airflow also. A great deal of extra flex may throw off their airflow calcs.

The HVAC guy is telling me that the reduced airflow will kill the efficiency to the second floor. He recommends I leave it rigid and just wrap with insulation but "he'll do whatever I tell him to do". So thanks for talking me though it. I am going to leave them rigid. Thanks again!

On the metal support poles it was hard to tell from the picture but you want to make sure the backside of the drywall doesn't touch the poles particularly on the theater side. If it looks like it is going to touch then some rubber foam might help mitigate potential rattles or sound transfer. Or shim out the wall with 1/2 inch furring. You could take a straight edge and rest it on the two adjacent studs. If it kisses the pole, you should take some action.

The HVAC guy is telling me that the reduced airflow will kill the efficiency to the second floor. He recommends I leave it rigid and just wrap with insulation but "he'll do whatever I tell him to do". So thanks for talking me though it. I am going to leave them rigid. Thanks again!

I think you're making the right decision to leave them rigid. I replaced the two lines running across my HT ceiling in the joist bays feeding the master bedroom (right above it) with flex. That, combined with putting an "S" curve in the trunk line feeding those made close to a -2 degree difference in the bedroom vs. the rest of the house due to the decreased airflow. I'm getting it a bit more balanced by partially closing some of the more "upstream" registers.

In retrospect, I definitely would have left them rigid and just stuffed insulation around them.

On the metal support poles it was hard to tell from the picture but you want to make sure the backside of the drywall doesn't touch the poles particularly on the theater side. If it looks like it is going to touch then some rubber foam might help mitigate potential rattles or sound transfer. Or shim out the wall with 1/2 inch furring. You could take a straight edge and rest it on the two adjacent studs. If it kisses the pole, you should take some action.

Thanks for the pointer BIG. I'lll check it out.

On the metal support poles it was hard to tell from the picture but you want to make sure the backside of the drywall doesn't touch the poles particularly on the theater side. If it looks like it is going to touch then some rubber foam might help mitigate potential rattles or sound transfer. Or shim out the wall with 1/2 inch furring. You could take a straight edge and rest it on the two adjacent studs. If it kisses the pole, you should take some action.

I have no idea how you could tell from that pic but the sheet rock will indeed touch the sheetrock on the inside of the theater. The backside is clear. ant to shim the whole wall. Let me know if you think one or both of these ideas will work.

1) Three layers of sheetrock on that theater wall with just the slice that would touch the pole on the first layer removed.

2) two layers with just the slice removed on the theater side and then DD+GG on the backside in that cavity. Like this:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/pole.gif

Having an uninterrupted damping layer is desirable. Option #1 would be OK, but material intensive, since you're adding a third layer of drywall and second layer of GG.

Option #2 won't do anything.

In my opinion, best option is Big's option. Shim out the framing sufficient to avoid that pole and have two layers of drywall, and one layer of GG. No gaps, no third layer, no patching.

OK, point taken. How should I insulate that wall?seems like R13 on front and back side would compress the insulation too much and might defeat some of the decoupling of the staggared studs.

Insulation goes vertically in a staggered stud wall, not horizontally. This limits the insulation compression.

The HVAC main trunk that you can see running down the middle of the theater in pics at the beginning of this thread has been relocated to the side wall and will be contained in the theater soffit. This gives me a soffit arund 28"wide by 8" high which I think is a reasonable size for my room. Results in a nice size tray but the soffit will be occupied so I won't be able to put any can lights in them.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/Newduct.jpg

Now that the duct work is in, the firestopping will be trimmed and the drops will be built. Next, I also need to relocate a gas line and some speaker wire that followed the path of the old duct work.

Not a bad idea to leave some room around the duct for some uncompressed insulation wrapping.

Insulation goes vertically in a staggered stud wall, not horizontally. This limits the insulation compression.

Did you get this backwards? Insulation in a normal wall runs vertically (top to bottom). Did you mean to say that it is run horizontal (left to right) by weaving in and out of the studs?

Not a bad idea to leave some room around the duct for some uncompressed insulation wrapping.

The new trunks are lined on the inside.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/linedduct.jpg

I will certainly stuff insulation in any open cavities in the soffit. Do you think I need to leave even more room?

Drops will be attached directly to the walls since they are already decoupled and they will be attached to whisper clips and hat channel on the ceiling. And then the exterior will be DD+GG.

BTW, The HVAC contractors re-routed a run that they thought was done poorly. Now, my sons room, which is above our garage and is easily the coldest room in the house, is now a few degrees warmer. He is thrilled.

Did you get this backwards? Insulation in a normal wall runs vertically (top to bottom). Did you mean to say that it is run horizontal (left to right) by weaving in and out of the studs?

Not backwards. Insulation is often pictured as installed horizontally in staggered stud walls. Woven, as you say. This is not optimal.

I have no idea how you could tell from that pic but the sheet rock will indeed touch the sheetrock on the inside of the theater. The backside is clear. ant to shim the whole wall. Let me know if you think one or both of these ideas will work.

1) Three layers of sheetrock on that theater wall with just the slice that would touch the pole on the first layer removed.

2) two layers with just the slice removed on the theater side and then DD+GG on the backside in that cavity. Like this:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/pole.gif

can you put columns where this occurs perhaps?

can you put columns where this occurs perhaps?

The column will be burried inside the wall. The issue is that the sheetrock will be touching the pole (on the inside of the wall) which reduces the effectiveness of the decoupling vie staggared studs and DC04 clips. Small issue but one that I will address.

EDIT: Just an update on the overall project. Plumbing and HVAC work should be done by Friday so I'll have more theater specific updates and pictures around the holidays. I might need some input on where to place my supply and return for the theater.

Some general questions: are these usually placed high or low? Wall? Ceiling? soffit? riser? etc? I know their is probably no 'right' answer but just trying to do what will make my life easiest. Seems like it would be a pain and possible an eyesore on the walls with all the fabric and treatment.

Small issue but one that I will address.
...


This kind of detail is what will make this project a success. So many small points really add up.

Awesome work, please keep us informed with new pictures :)

Awesome work, please keep us informed with new pictures :)

Will do.

Was looking at speakers and projectors.

What do you guys think of the B&W CT 800 Series (http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=3577&terid=3583&sc=ht)?

Also, like many here I think my projector choice is down to the Panny PT-AE4000U and the Epson 8500 UB.

EDIT: Still waiting for some input on my HVAC supply and return question but I also have another one. Is size the ONLY reason people go with an AT screen? Seems like you would sacrifice both audio and video quality by going this route.

Question for the soundproofing gurus.

Here is a closeup of a section of wall with firestopping. This is a staggared stud wall that is decoupled from the floor joists above by DC04 clips (you can see one in the background). I'm assuming the contractor installed this firestopping due to local code. The section will ultimately be buried behind a soffit.

However, doesn't the vertical portion of sheet rock which is butted up against the horizontal portion just couple the wall back to the floor joists? What is the way to correct this and still maintain the firestopping capability? Should I cut the vertical sheetrock down to the top of the top plate and then stuff some rock wool in between the top plate and the horozontal sheetrock?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/firestop-1.jpg

I'm not an expert, but it seems to me that if the ceiling DW is decoupled from the floor joists its not going to make a difference if the wall DW touches it, and if the ceiling DW is not decoupled from the floor joists it won't matter if the wall is touching or not as the ceiling is already passing vibrations through to the floor joists.

Where would the foundation be in relation to this image? You're saying this is vertical fireblocking?is that drywall on the theater side?

In any event, that isn't a very rigid connection. Not as conductive

The ceiling will be decouopled with whisper clips and hat channel. The soffit will be connected to the ceiling by a channel and then directly to the (decoupled) walls. That DW is for firestopping only and is screwed directly to the joists.

My installation is more like this:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/soffit_diagram.jpg

There will not be DD and GG inside the soffit.

Will do.

Was looking at speakers and projectors.

What do you guys think of the B&W CT 800 Series (http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=3577&terid=3583&sc=ht)?

Also, like many here I think my projector choice is down to the Panny PT-AE4000U and the Epson 8500 UB.

EDIT: Still waiting for some input on my HVAC supply and return question but I also have another one. Is size the ONLY reason people go with an AT screen? Seems like you would sacrifice both audio and video quality by going this route.

If you have the budget for CT 800s I would go for it. I tested out the CT. 700s at my local B&W dealer and I liked these speakers a lot. Especially because they're made more specifically for theaters meaning more dynamic. As with everything its all personal taste and preference. If the 700s are a good set of speakers I can imagine the 800s being even better. Give them a try.

Ted, it is NOT on an exterior wall. Yes the sheet rock is on the interior of the theater (but, again, would be contained behind a soffit). I was just using the term vertical and horozontal to point out which piece of sheetrock I was referring to. I really am not that familiar with the local codes. I assume it is there because it needs to be there (I will be sure to aks about it). He did use rock wool in some areas. So I thought it might be best to romove the top inch or so of sheetrock and then just shove rock wool in there. Assuming this meets the local fire codes, (I will make sure I ask him when he is here next) then FROM A SOUNDPROOFING PERSPECTIVE would it be better to have the rock wool instead of the sheetrock?

If you have the budget for CT 800s I would go for it. I tested out the CT. 700s at my local B&W dealer and I liked these speakers a lot. Especially because they're made more specifically for theaters meaning more dynamic. As with everything its all personal taste and preference. If the 700s are a good set of speakers I can imagine the 800s being even better. Give them a try.

A friend of a friend has a HT store and gave me a killer deal on the CS in-walls. (his construction guy is booked for 6 months so I went out on my own for that. maybe I should have waited. :( ) I'm hoping I get a similar deal for the CTs. They still may be too expensive but until I get a number I won't know. Until then, they will remain on my wish list. BTW, anyone have first hand experience/knowledge with Artison (http://www.artisonusa.com/)? I'm looking at picking up either thier 600 or 300 in wall sub for my family room.

OK. Update. Ready for prewiring and then sheetrock. My wife is in charge of decorating. apparently she has a vision similar to this pic:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/home_theaters_MEL.jpg

With round columns, it makes it pretty hard to bury speakers in them. Therefore, I was thinking of doing something like the pics below. Round columns and speakers mounter behind/in panels rather than the popular speakers in columns. Thoughts?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/round_left.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/round_right.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/round_back.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/round_front.jpg

I prefer the seating in this (similar) setup though. I think I'm going with a round chair configuration. 4 seats in the front row and 5 seats in the second row.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/square_top.jpg

Riser will be 10" (not 6 as listed)

Thoughts?

Quick update:

First, I wanted to show a few mistakes I made and what I did to correct them.

Side wall (with door) was configured as a staggared stud wall. The wall on the theater side would have touched a metal support pole so I had to fur it our with 1x2s so it cleared the pole.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/wallsconce.jpg

Rear wall was also a staggared stud wall. I pushed it back as far as it could go. That was until all the hvac ducts were in. I needed to add another 2x4 wall to the rear in order to clear the dict work. Now I have a double wall and one of them is staggared studs. So glad you won't be able to hear anything in that unfinished space behind the theater. :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/rearwall.jpg

In other news, you can see that the electric is in. I have my whole basement running on 3 Grafik Eyes with 5 Lutron single gang control pads throughout the basement. I have one of the Grafik Eyes at the bottom of the stairs. This would have been a 4 gang switch box if it was regular switches so I figured I would put one here and eliminate the need for another control pad.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/GEprewire.jpg

The other 2 Grafik Eyes are in unfinished storage by the subpanel. A total of 18zones of Grafik Eye goodness.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/subpanel.jpg

Also, Bar plans are done. I'll post them when I get some time.

I spent today building boxes. 8 in total for 6 recessed lights and 2 hvac supplies. I was pretty much done when I realized I forgot to make one for the return. :(

What a mess I made with the GG and Sealant.

Electrical and framing inspections tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Electrical and framing inspections passed. I'm good now until the final. Here are pics of the boxes.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/boxes.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/boxes2.jpg

Those are substantial looking. Inspector was OK with everything. Great.

Ted-

Yes, they are. My boxes turned out to be 17.5"L x 12"W x 10"D. I wasn't sure which old work recessed my electrician was supplying. I also used extra 5/8" drywall I had lying around from my firestops instead of cement board. I looked at the guide and the Halo light the boxes were speced for and compared that to other brand 4" old work recessed. The boxes in the guide are 17.5"L x 10.625"W x 8.8125"D.

My dimensions are sightly larger since the drywall is thicker than the cement board and some fixtures are slightly taller than the Halo.

Here's the bar layout. I made one change to it. We are swapping the sink and the dishwasher locations.

Front
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_front.jpg

Back Bar
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_backbar.jpg

Top
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_top.jpg

Side
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_side.jpg

Also, here is the Rack location. It will be in the family room area in this built-in on the left.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/rack_location.jpg

Changing a few things on my layout. Need a sanity check. Originally, I was going to place the speakers behind panels but I'm going back on that now for two reasons. 1) I was losing too much width to the room. 2) Looking to use a nicer fabric than GOM FR701 to completely cover my walls.

In order to not bunch up my columns in the rear of the theater I now plan to use a set of B&W dipoles as the surrounds.Please let me know what you think of the equipment selection and layout. Thanks.

Equipment:
SMX 130" wide (141" diag) 2.37:1 ProCurv screen
Epson 9500UB projector
Panamorph A480SYS moveable lens system with UH480 lens
Integra DTR-80.1 Receiver
B&W Custom Theater CT7.3 LCRS
B&W CTSW12 subwoofers
B&W dipoles for surrounds - undecided (CWM DS8?)
B&W CWM Cinema-6 for Rears
Berkline 13175 in a curved configuration. 5 in 2nd row. 4 in front row.


Layout:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/theater_layout2.jpg

Questions:
I like the idea of columns on the stage. I'm concerened the wall opposite the door then becomes to large. I have alterate column locations marked just on front of the stage. Thoughts?

Will the dipole setup be OK rather than sides for each row?

Also any comments on the bar or built-in layout?

SHEETROCK HAS STARTED! Yeah!

Changing a few things on my layout. Need a sanity check. Originally, I was going to place the speakers behind panels but I'm going back on that now for two reasons. 1) I was losing too much width to the room. 2) Looking to use a nicer fabric than GOM FR701 to completely cover my walls.

In order to not bunch up my columns in the rear of the theater I now plan to use a set of B&W dipoles as the surrounds.Please let me know what you think of the equipment selection and layout. Thanks.

Equipment:
SMX 130" wide (141" diag) ProCurv screen
Epson 9500UB projector
Panamorph A480SYS moveable lens system with UH480 lens
Integra DTR-80.1 Receiver
B&W Custom Theater CT7.3 LCRS
B&W CTSW12 subwoofers
B&W dipoles for surrounds - undecided (CWM DS8?)
B&W CWM Cinema-6 for Rears
Berkline 13175 in a curved configuration. 5 in 2nd row. 4 in front row.


Layout:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/theater_layout2.jpg

Questions:
I like the idea of columns on the stage. I'm concerened the wall opposite the door then becomes to large. I have alterate column locations marked just on front of the stage. Thoughts?

Will the dipole setup be OK rather than sides for each row?

Also any comments on the bar or built-in layout?

SHEETROCK HAS STARTED! Yeah!

What about making the wall opposite the door look like the door? It would be fake, but mimic the actual door. It would break up the wall and make the room completely symmetrical.

What about making the wall opposite the door look like the door? It would be fake, but mimic the actual door. It would break up the wall and make the room completely symmetrical.

I plan to put a torchiere in that location as well as the other 5 sconce locations (6 in total. 2 on door wall, 3 on the opposite wall, 1 on the rear wall). Something substantial that would more or less fill the space. Kind of like these:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/home_theaters_MEL.jpg

Sheetrock is done and the stage is almost complete. I'll try to get some pics uip later. Also just got 4 TONS of sand delivered this morning to fill the stage with. It was a lot cheaper than buying individual bags at HD or Lowe's and they delivered it also.

OK, here is the stage without the front step. Hard to see in the pic but the soffit is curved to match the stage.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/stage2.jpg

That's a lot of sand!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/sand.jpg

Congrats on your drywall milestone, things look great. I just saw your bar layout, looks AWESOME and I'm jealous:)

Thanks, fotto. Here's an update with the first layer of plywood on the front step. one more layer to add. I'm making sure the sand is dry by shoveling a layer every few hours and spreading it around. Hopefully I can fill it tomorrow so the plywood can be screwed down and the front edge of each step can be routed.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/stage3.jpg

Here are some updated pics of the entire basement project.

First the Theater (don't mind the color on the walls. I ran out of primer and grabbed some leftover tinted primer from our guest bedroom):

Stage1
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1381.jpg

Stage2/Soffit
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1382.jpg

Riser/Columns -- you can see my berkline template I made. I needed it to get the curved configuration so I could get the correct curve in the front of the riser
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1379.jpg

Basement Pics:

bathroom/Pool table area looking towards bar/gym/theater entrance
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1398.jpg

Just outside gym looking towards bar/theater entrance/pool table/bathroom
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1391.jpg

Family Room area looking towards pool table area
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1390.jpg

Pool Table area looking towards Family Room (built-ins where rack will be located)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1396.jpg

I really like the way your basement project is coming together and hate the fact that it is really going to look/sound better than mine. Great Job.

Thanks for the kind words Big. I have a few pics of some problem areas to post so hopefully everyone will provide some feedback when I do. Good news tonight though. I had these pretty puppies to open. I might as well have been looking in a mirror because this is what my face looked like as I opened them. These are some purty speakers. B&W CWM DS8 dipoles for my surrounds.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/CWMDS8.jpg

And these are some substantial backer boxes!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/CWMDS8_back_boxes.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1382.jpg
Very impressive build and I like your stage and riser design, they look great. Question, what is your stage height and what is the distance between stage and front soffit?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1382.jpg
Very impressive build and I like your stage and riser design, they look great. Question, what is your stage height and what is the distance between stage and front soffit?

Thanks! Stage is 12" high. Layed a green plate on the flat in front and back, then a 2x10 riser and two 1/2 sheets of ply on top (CDX for the top layer). (1.5" + 9.5" + 1/2" +1/2"). And then added the 6" step in front. The front soffit mimics the curve of the top portion of the stage. Same depth and curve. (plumb-bob is your friend) The soffit is 8" high. The columns on the stage are framed in 2x6 so they are 6" deep with the sheetrock. Finished will be 5" deep after the 1" wall treatments.

Thanks! Stage is 12" high. Layed a green plate on the flat in front and back, then a 2x10 riser and two 1/2 sheets of ply on top (CDX for the top layer). (1.5" + 9.5" + 1/2" +1/2"). And then added the 6" step in front. The front soffit mimics the curve of the top portion of the stage. Same depth and curve. (plumb-bob is your friend) The soffit is 8" high. The columns on the stage are framed in 2x6 so they are 6" deep with the sheetrock. Finished will be 5" deep after the 1" wall treatments.

It looks like you have the tall (9') ceiling. I may have not phrased my question clearly, but I am actually wondering what is the height on top of the stage (and below the soffit), it looks like 12"+ 8" =20" stage plus soffit, so you may have like 7' height? My design is similar to yours, the reason I am asking is, what is the size of your screen going to be and how much space left after you take out 2x3" top and bottom screen frame? Mine ceiling is only 7'8", if based on your design, I will only have 72" height left and deduct 6", 66" left for max screen height, if I go 12' wild 2.35:1 setup, then the screen height will be 61", so you see, it is going to be really tight.

Another question, how do you curve the sheetrock?

Yes, I have tall(er) ceilings in the basement. They could always be a little taller. I understand what you are asking for now. Not sure of the exact dimension but I do recall having 18" to split between above and below the screen with a 141" diagonal 2.37:1 screen. I can't remember if I added the frame width when I figured that out. It should work either way. I'm about 5'10" (70") tall. I do not feel like I'm close to hitting my head when standing on the stage. So that area is probably 80" or so?

61" is less that 66", right? I say go for it!

Doors, hardware, casings, trim, base, and crown are done in the basement. Bathroom and bar tile is done as well. Screen wall and crown are done in the theater. I'll try to get some pics up.

Given the passion for movies, I'm sure there are some theatre fans here. Here is my youngest son playing Oliver Twist in the musical Oliver! This is his solo "Where is Love". (Not a school production but not quite Broadway) He is an 8 year old in front of a crowd of roughly 600. Enjoy. (This is grandma's boyfriend's camera so not the best audio or video. So just think how it was live!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0_PaKqpJzc

In the pics, the tile looks darker than it actually is/

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_tile.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bathroomtile.jpg

I love your build so far and am very jealous of your ceiling height;)

I love your build so far and am very jealous of your ceiling height;)

Thanks! Appreciate the comments. It seems you can never have enough ceiling height.

Here's the crown for the rope lights. It's two pieces. The crown plus another trim piece in the bottom of the soffit.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/rope_light_crown.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/rope_light_crown3.jpg

and then a quick pic of the screen wall.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/screen_wall2.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/screen_wall.jpg

Very neat and tidy.

Very neat and tidy.
Yes. Darrell is very clean. Works fast too. I didn't show any pics of the unfinished storage areas. You can hardly walk around in those. :)

EDIT: bar is being delivered in 3 weeks. Instal will likely be the first week in May. Can't wait.

Great looking theater!

Thanks, Sinister.

A few quick questions.

My screen is AT. Do the fabric panels around the screen need to be FR701 or can I go with anchorage or equivelent and still be OK. (after all the speakers will be located behind the AT screen)

Do I need to be concerned about exposed staples when I cover the OC703 behind my screen wall (Again, it's an AT screen tht will have lighting behind the screen as a scene) If so, what is the best way to conceal these.

Also, do I need to treat the ceiling and/or floor behind the screen?

BTW, first coat of paint is done in the basement.
Probably about a month or so from completion.

Theater ceiling paint arrived today. Any answers to my above questions?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/rosco_paint.jpg

Time to vote people. Trying to finalize the color scheme. Here are a few options. Carpet is Masquerade (a la adammb) Wall panel design is similar to Mr. Poindexter. (outside one color with inside another). Chairs and ceiling are chocolate brown.

1) maroon and gold- moroon and tan carpet, panel is maroon on the border and the pattern in the middle, columns would be the tan/gold color, ceilings and chairs are chocolate brown
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1457.jpg

2) brown and gold- carpet 'bark', panel is gold on the border and the pattern in the middle, columns would be brown along with the chairs and ceiling
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1458.jpg

3) some combination of above colors with 'caviar' carpet (this is what adammb has) This incorporates black into the carpet which ties in the black screen wall. Border would probably need to be brown with the pattern in the middle. Columns would be the tan/gold color. NOTE: pic shows caviar carpet with maroon border. I would not do this combo. I would replace the maroon with brown. NOTE2: this is actually the brown. the flash makes it look more like the maroon. LOL.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1460.jpg

Also, any comments on this sconce? My sconces will go on the panels not on the columns. These are almost 3 ft in height. I think they would add quite a bit of character to the room.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/sconce.jpg

BTW, here is the bar color scheme.

Brookhaven cabinets. Maple wood. Springfield raised square - full overlay. candlelight finish with black glaze.

Granite is 'Lady Dream'.

Tile is anyones guess. Wife picked it out. Looks a little yellow in the pic but matches very nicely in the basement lighting. You can scroll up to see other tile pics.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_color_scheme.jpg

Time to vote people. Trying to finalize the color scheme. Here are a few options. Carpet is Masquerade (a la adammb) Wall panel design is similar to Mr. Poindexter. (outside one color with inside another). Chairs and ceiling are chocolate brown.

1) maroon and gold- moroon and tan carpet, panel is maroon on the border and the pattern in the middle, columns would be the tan/gold color, ceilings and chairs are chocolate brown
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1457.jpg


Also, any comments on this sconce? My sconces will go on the panels not on the columns. These are almost 3 ft in height. I think they would add quite a bit of character to the room.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/sconce.jpg


I like the first color scheme. I'm partial to darker colors.

Love the sconce choice. That design can't be cheap! But it looks fantastic.

Thanks Drew. Appreciate the feedback.

I like them all - I don't think you can go wrong. And yes, I'm unaffiliated. ;)

I don't think you can go wrong with any of your color choices, they all work well. The first one would be a little more traditional.

Scones look awesome! Nice granite choice too! I think with the granite and cabinet combo you could do several tiles, either one like you have posted or even some slate would look really good!

Nice work and what a lovely basement area.

I thought I'll remind you of something that could be worth looking into. Considering that you will use two rows of seats and quite wide aswell, with the back row quite close to the rear wall, I am certain that you will have a dissapointing bass response depending on where you sit.

I saw 2 subs intended in the front wall. Either consider placing one in each of the rear & front wall or side walls, or get another 2 subs and place one in the middle of each wall.
EDIT: Not necesarily INSIDE the walls but AT the wall, is just as good.

It would be a pity completing the room and you'r friend in the backrow complains about the bass during a movie and there is nothing else you could do about it besides starting tearing up walls to move the subs around.

Give it a thought and do some research on it. Bad bass response kills a HT, no matter the equipments quality or power.

Thanks Audixium and In2Photos. Maybe I'll just flip a coin! Malmedahl, I'll look into it. EDIT: Malmedahl, I have an extra pair of 12 AWG in each column. I would think it would be quite easy to add an Artisan RCC 600 in the rear columns if needed. http://www.artisonusa.com/artison_009.htm

And yes, I'm unaffiliated. ;)

Audixium- how about "I modeled my framing after Audixium". Now you are invested. ;)

Audixium- how about "I modeled my framing after Audixium". Now you are invested. ;)

Funny, real funny. Keep the jokes coming about my lack of progress on any front. :o

Color scheme #1 is almost identical to our living room if you really must know. ;)

Thanks Audixium and In2Photos. Maybe I'll just flip a coin! Malmedahl, I'll look into it. EDIT: Malmedahl, I have an extra pair of 12 AWG in each column. I would think it would be quite easy to add an Artisan RCC 600 in the rear columns if needed. http://www.artisonusa.com/artison_009.htm

Try avoiding corners for SW placement. As much centered on the wall as possible for the most even room response. There is of course not just as easy as that but its almost a rule of thumb. I say almost because from what I have learned about acoustics, never call anything by rule of thumb :P

Bar update! :cool: Yes, that middle spot is for a 46" TV.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/bar_update.jpg

Very nice choice of colour/wood, I love it!

What is the area right beneath the TV going to be used for? If your aiming for an expensive panel, you might not want to wash dishes or do any other steamproducing activities there :P

It will be a custom mirror with a frame that matches the cabinetry. The sink is on the oppositie side. The appliances are in, all the trim and crown is done, and the granite template is complete. Counters should be installed on friday. I'll snap some better pics this week.

BTw, here's what I just ordered for the theater wall treatments. Equivalent to the OC703 and JM814 but it comes in black.

http://www.knaufusa.com/products/building_insulation/commercial_building_insulation/black_acoustical_board_ecose.aspx

http://www.knaufusa.com/images/blk-acoustic-boardbr_260x260.jpg

The bar is complete and the hardwood floor is in. Barstools are ordered. Also, the mirrored wall in the gym is up and the bathroom is almost complete. Next is the rubber flooring in the gym and the built-in which will be the home for the rack. Regrettably, not much progress to report in the theater.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1549.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1545.jpg

Spectacular bar!!!

VERY NICE! The color scheme works great.

Thanks, guys. Basement is coming along slowly but steady.

BTw, here's what I just ordered for the theater wall treatments. Equivalent to the OC703 and JM814 but it comes in black.

http://www.knaufusa.com/products/building_insulation/commercial_building_insulation/black_acoustical_board_ecose.aspx

http://www.knaufusa.com/images/blk-acoustic-boardbr_260x260.jpg


So where'd you end up ordering them from?

I'm interested in any possible solution that's thinner and easier to cut than OC703. :)

I ordered from Allied building. But it is the same as OC703 in every way except the color.

My rack finally has a home. Thank goodness Middle Atlantic is based in NJ. I should have it in only a few days. Model ordered is the AX-SXR-41-GG.

warning: iphone pic...
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0357-1.jpg

Again, the rack will host all equipment for the entire basement. All sources will go here and distribute audio/video to the Theater, Family Room (pictured), Bar, and Gym.

Any news?

I have not been following your build, but I see some AMAZING progress!
In one of your mockups, or plans, I see you using B&W CT700 for the front. Did you decide to use those for your fronts and a set of diploes for the rear?

Any news?

The theater doors are installed but the trim is not quite done. It took about 8 weeks for them to be delivered. Most of the trim in the rest of the basement is complete. Sconces were ordered and delivered and I have all the OC703 delivered. Not much else in the theater yet.

As far as the rest of the basement goes, most of the ceiling fixtures and bar pendants have been installed. Bar stools and pub table were ordered and delivered. Pool table is on order and is scheduled to be delivered on Friday. I also ordered all the ceiling speakers (B&W) along with some equipment for the rack including an Integra receiver for the Family room area. I completed the install of the gym rubber flooring also.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_2095.jpg

I have not been following your build, but I see some AMAZING progress!
In one of your mockups, or plans, I see you using B&W CT700 for the front. Did you decide to use those for your fronts and a set of diploes for the rear?

CT7.4 for each Left Center Right.
CWM800 for rears.
CWMDS8 for sides.
a pair of CTSW10 or 12s for subs. (not decided yet)

Impressive doors

Thanks for the update, looking good! Sounds like you have a nice set of goodies coming your way (ht stuff, pool table, etc.) - does make me a little jealous of you basement folks - rare in Southern California. Oh well, at least I'll have the most important room taken care of. :D

WOW...yes those doors look awesome (and about 200lbs each!)

Thanks, Big. Always appreciate positive comments from one of the resident experts. Brad, yes, I needed nice doors because what is on the other side is nowhere neer finished yet. Fotto, the doors are solid Mahogony exterior doors. I don't know their exact weight but they are very very heavy.

Big, since you've seen the doors, please take a look at the very top. I have power run their for a potential marquee or something but with the doors in, that area seems way to small. I think I might just get a nice decorative header with some crown that extende the entire door all the way to the soffit. I like the idea of some sort of marquee but it just doesn't seem feasible now. I'd hate to detract from the nice doors with something that looks crammed in there. Thoughts?

I think you are right about the height of the doors and limited space for a marquee. The only really way to pull it off is to forgo the traditional molding over the top of the door and instead use something no more that an inch tall.

If that was my space I would do a really nice built up crown molding header over the door. Then I would think about doing something back-lit to the sides of the door.

Found something that would look spectacular in a matching stain over that door. You don't need to take the crown around the room just take it straight back to the wall. You also don't need the medallion and it will have to be a little shorter.

http://www.tflarkin.com/dynamicdata/data/master%20door%20close0001.JPG

Get out the check book and hang something classic by the door.

http://www.htmart.com/files/images/HCA_pix/Poster_Case_Aztec_lg.jpg

Found something that would look spectacular in a matching stain over that door. You don't need to take the crown around the room just take it straight back to the wall. You also don't need the medallion and it will have to be a little shorter.

http://www.tflarkin.com/dynamicdata/data/master%20door%20close0001.JPG

Yes, this is exactly what I meant by "decorative header with some crown" above the door.


Get out the check book and hang something classic by the door.

http://www.htmart.com/files/images/HCA_pix/Poster_Case_Aztec_lg.jpg

I did consider that but the doors are outswing. It would make the most sense to put something to the right of the doors but the one on the right is the active door.

pool anyone?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/pooltable2.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/pooltable1.jpg

Any progress made on the theatre?

Guys, I'm really embarrased by how long this build is taking. The rest of the basement is finished and furnished. The theater room is still not complete but has had some significant progress though. Updated pics by the weekend.

some new pics. :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0853.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0852.jpg

No comments on the theater so here are a few pics of the rest of the basement:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0882.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0892.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0883.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0886.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0888.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0889.jpg

love it!!

some new pics. :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0853.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0852.jpg

The theater looks awesome. I love the lighting, very different from anything I have seen.

I like the design of the theater as well. The lights and the doors are particularly impressive.

What color carpet are you thinking about using in there? I just scanned through all the pictures in your thread, so I apologize if I missed it.

For the stage did you frame on top of your green plates and then fill each cavity with plastic + sand. Or do you have a space between the bottom of the stage and your concrete.

Thanks, guys! I apologize for taking so long to respond but yesterday was my son's Confirmation.

J_P_A -- The carpet is Stanton Masquerade. It is the same carpet that adammb has but a different color. The carpet should go in this week.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1457.jpg

michaelstrunk -- It's been over a year and I couldn't find any pics of the stage without the plywood top so I don't remember exactly. But as I recall, kind of both. The stage was framed and is sitting on top of two treated plates that keep it above the concrete. Then filled with plastic/sand. I certainly don't miss carting the buckets of sand to the basement.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/sand.jpg

The bar is complete and the hardwood floor is in. Barstools are ordered. Also, the mirrored wall in the gym is up and the bathroom is almost complete. Next is the rubber flooring in the gym and the built-in which will be the home for the rack. Regrettably, not much progress to report in the theater.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1549.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1545.jpg

Well that is damn ridiculous
What part of Jersey?

If you don't mind sharing, who did it for you and what did it cost?

Theater and the rest of the basement look really great, very nice combination of warm colors and materials.

Well that is damn ridiculous
What part of Jersey?

If you don't mind sharing, who did it for you and what did it cost?

Thanks for the comments. There are some more finished pics about 7 or so posts above with the TV installed, bar stools, pendant lights, etc.

Hunterdon County. The bar and built-ins were designed by Joyce at HK Designs in Flemington. It was installed by Rudy from R and D Installations. The guy does awesome work. It took almost a week for him to install the bar and built-in (minus the granite). I can't believe how much finish work he did onsite. At first I thought the install price was on the high side. Now, I'm really glad I didn't try and find a different (cheaper) installer on my own. It was worth it having an installer familiar with HK and the cabinets they offer. As you are probably aware, price can vary greatly based on the cabinet type (some just come in standard sizes, others are semi-custom or fully custom), door style, wood, and finish plus you can go a little crazy with the granite.

Theater and the rest of the basement look really great, very nice combination of warm colors and materials.

Thanks, Brad. I wish the friggin carpet installer would hurry up already. I wanted it done by now. He's saying he can't get here until 7/11. :mad:

Crappy cell phone pic but the carpet is in and I carried a 3 of the 9 chairs downstairs! Chairs are chocolate borwn. Setup is 5 in a curved configuration for the back row and 4 curved in the front row.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0051.jpg

One more:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_0053.jpg

Looking good!

Thanks, BIG!!!

Since there's all this OT nonsense going on I thought I might add that we cooked the best ribs in NJ this weekend at the NJ State Barbecue Championship (2nd overall in the Rib category, Top ribs from a NJ team).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/BBQ/photo5.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/BBQ/photo12.jpg

we cooked the best ribs in NJ this weekend at the NJ State Barbecue Championship (2nd overall in the Rib category, Top ribs from a NJ team).

Now THAT is an awesome accomplishment! Congratulations! What style smoker do you use?

Your basement and theater are absolutely beautiful, by the way.

We cook on a Backwoods Party at competitions. I cook on a Weber Smokey Mountain at home. Our team is Smokopolis BBQ.

Thanks on the theater compliment.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/BBQ/smokopolis3editcopyforWeb-1.jpg

Wow, your basement turned out AMAZING! I love the bar, family room theater, and dedicated theater. That basement has a large footprint.

Curious how much square feet that is? Also, any new pic's of the theater?

Thanks. I think the whole basement is around 1500sf. There are two unfinished storage areas also so it actually could have been a bit larger All the equipment including my SMX screen should be here next week so more pics soon.

I did take a measurement and it is 1500sf. (1495 to be exact, not including the area behind the screen wall or any closets, etc) The house is 4500sf so we added about a third more living space bringing the total up to 6000.

I actually ordered everything EXCEPT the projector. I'm guessing this is ok given everyone says hang the projector last. :) When I started the build I had the Epson 9700ub in mind. At this point I am going to wait for the Epson 61000 which should be available in a month or so.

My SMX 130" ProCurv screen should be here next week. I always thought I'd be getting an A-lens with the projector. The 61000 was demoed at Cedia on a Stewart Studiotek 130 Cinecurve screen WITHOUT an A-lens. They zoomed in the Cedia demo for all 2.35 material. I figure if it is good enough for them to demo at the leading AV trade show then I might as well see how I like it in my home theater before purchasing an A-lens.

Thanks for the reply. Again, your space turned out amazing and looking forward to seeing finished pic's of your theater.

Believe it or not... progress. Far from done, but much better than the pile of wires and components stacked on folding snack tray tables.

Rack pr0n:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1010.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1005.jpg

test fit of my 130" SMX ProCurv befroe cutting the fabric.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1012.jpg

Can you find my dog in this picture? lol. She kind of blends into the carpet.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1014.jpg

test fit of my 130" SMX ProCurv befroe cutting the fabric.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1012.jpg

Can you find my dog in this picture? lol. She kind of blends into the carpet.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/IMG_1014.jpg

Wow that looks amazing..Congrats
What is the width of the room and the total with of the screen (I believe the screen is 137")

I'm curious of how much space is to the left and right of the screen. Once I start building my theater, I'm concerned with how much room I will have to the left and right of the screen

Yes, the screen with frame is 137" wide. I have 2 feet on either side of the screen. Even though I had every exact measurement, until you hang the screen you really do not get a sense of how big it really is. It is mounted about 6" higher than I originally anticipated. I felt it needed to be a little higher for the back row. I'm glad I did not start making my screen wall fabric frames yet.

Looking Good! I think that black bar may get annoying after a couple of movies

Looking Good! I think that black bar may get annoying after a couple of movies

HAHA! I brought the wife downstairs to show her the rack and screen. She stands there for a minute and then asks "what goes over the screen" Of course, I was completely confused by what she was asking. I said that IS the screen and there were no other pieces or parts needed. She then asked "Well, won't that bar be in the way when we're watching a movie?" It was hard not to laugh.

Yes, the screen with frame is 137" wide. I have 2 feet on either side of the screen. Even though I had every exact measurement, until you hang the screen you really do not get a sense of how big it really is. It is mounted about 6" higher than I originally anticipated. I felt it needed to be a little higher for the back row. I'm glad I did not start making my screen wall fabric frames yet.

Thanks!

I calculated I will have approx 15"-18" on each end so it should look good as your setup looks great. I plan on also having it on an angle as to add depth which should provide some perception of added width

The columns on the stage are about 19" from the edge of the screen so that might give you a better perspective from the photo.

Your theater is coming along nicely. Good choice of carpet, the bar looks great, hard wood floors sweet. Looking forward to seeing the end results...:D

Your theater is coming along nicely. Good choice of carpet, the bar looks great, hard wood floors sweet. Looking forward to seeing the end results...:D

Thanks for your support!!! I built speaker stands today for the LCR behind the screen. The longest part was waiting for the sand to dry to fill the columns.

What do you guys think? I have three of these. Here's basically one of them being constructed.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo1.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo3.jpg

Thanks for your support!!! I built speaker stands today for the LCR behind the screen. The longest part was waiting for the sand to dry to fill the columns.

What do you guys think? I have three of these. Here's basically one of them being constructed.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo1.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo3.jpg

Doesn't get much more high tech than that:cool:

Doesn't get much more high tech than that:cool:

MDF and PVC. :D I figured why waste a few hundred on speaker stands when they'll sit behind a screen where nobody will see them.

Thanks for your support!!! I built speaker stands today for the LCR behind the screen. The longest part was waiting for the sand to dry to fill the columns.

What do you guys think? I have three of these. Here's basically one of them being constructed.


Would like to see more on these, I guess you ran a threaded rod in the center and the sand to balance and stop the vibrations?

Ah...luxurious space. Your basement is very well finished.
Nice to see a theater with some color and decorating panache.
Question: Knowing you will not be installing the Anamorph lens, would you still go with a curved screen?

Would like to see more on these, I guess you ran a threaded rod in the center and the sand to balance and stop the vibrations?

I googled 'making speaker stands' and this was the first hit.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html

For the top and base I use two pieces of 1/2" mdf and glued/screwed them together after drilling the holes. I changed the dimension of the top and bottom to fit the speakers I am using. I also use 4" PVC since my speakers are pretty large/heavy. Made a quick pass with the sander to smooth the edges and then spray painted with flat black paint.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/gurban/Urban%20Legend%20Theater/photo5.jpg

Ah...luxurious space. Your basement is very well finished.
Nice to see a theater with some color and decorating panache.
Question: Knowing you will not be installing the Anamorph lens, would you still go with a curved screen?

Thanks for the compliments.

Not sure on the A-lens. If I need one, I will get one. I was just thrown for a loop when I found out the Epson did not use one in their demo of the 61000. The plans was to always get an A-lens. Now i will just try the projector first and upgrade to an A-lens if needed. I like how the curved screen fits in my space and would buy it again if given the choice.

Thanks for the compliments.

Not sure on the A-lens. If I need one, I will get one. I was just thrown for a loop when I found out the Epson did not use one in their demo of the 61000. The plans was to always get an A-lens. Now i will just try the projector first and upgrade to an A-lens if needed. I like how the curved screen fits in my space and would buy it again if given the choice.

I don't blame you one bit. I own a SMX Curved screen (bought last summer) still in the box and with all the advancements in projector technology I'm having doubts about using an A-lens if I don't need to.

FWIW, I had tried an Epson 9500 with a makeshift homemade curved screen last year and found the image to be incredibly immersive. With a minimal amount of overscan, the barrel distortion was a non-issue for me.

Love this basement, love this theater! Great job!:)

NJ.. Saw this post in another thread and wanted to get your opinion

I use three 6-zone Grafik Eyes inconjunction with 4 Wall stations and integration with my Control4 setup. This gives my access to the lights from all 4 remotes in the basement and from every iDevice in the house (2 iPads, 3 iPhones, 1 iPod Touch). This is extremely helpful because the kids ALWAYS leave the lights on in the basement when they come up from watching a movie or playing PS3. I can make sure the lights are off from my phone while I'm 2 stories up in my bedroom before going to bed (no line of site necessary which sound like what you are looking for).

Seems the Crestron or Lutrons are the defacto choices for peoples theater rooms. I visited the Control 4 people at Cedia and from my rudimentary understanding it seems that Control 4 is comparable for capability and probably even friendlier when it comes to expanding the system

Was your control system planned in advance with a combo of Grafix Eye and Control 4, and what drove your decision? Or did you add one or the other later. Based on your experience with both, do you see a benefit of one over the other for specific applications.. IE Control 4's wireless capabilities, or Grafix eye ability to set up scenes in the theater? etc..

Brad

Love this basement, love this theater! Great job!:)

Thanks DMAN!

NJ.. Saw this post in another thread and wanted to get your opinion



Seems the Crestron or Lutrons are the defacto choices for peoples theater rooms. I visited the Control 4 people at Cedia and from my rudimentary understanding it seems that Control 4 is comparable for capability and probably even friendlier when it comes to expanding the system

Was your control system planned in advance with a combo of Grafix Eye and Control 4, and what drove your decision? Or did you add one or the other later. Based on your experience with both, do you see a benefit of one over the other for specific applications.. IE Control 4's wireless capabilities, or Grafix eye ability to set up scenes in the theater? etc..

Brad


Brad- Sorry for the delay. We've had no power in the NJ for a few days. I did install the GEs first. The original plan for control was to use Home Theater Master stuff from URC. I already have several of their remotes in other locations in the house. It was just recently that my friend who owns a Home Theater store convinced me to consider Control4. Basicall the on screen display, ease of use for the family, and controls from any 'i'device convinced me. My only hold up was the fact that it needs to be installed by a dealer (and any change thereafter is supposed to be done by them as well). He did do the initial setup but is giving me a developer login so I can make modifications on my own. I'm happy with the setup, but, to answer your question I may have done things a little differently if I didn't already have all the GE stuff installed or if I didn't have the ability to make changes to the setup on my own.

NJ.. Looks like you may be one of the lucky ones, news reported this morning that ~ 2kk people are still without power.

Thanks for your take on the Control 4. Ease of use for the family (priority) definitely seem a plus with their products. From what I can tell the initial entry cost (theater system control only) seems comparable to other control systems, considering all the variables, ie.. higher end remote costs vs control 4's ability to integration with the i-pad etc.

Being tied into a control 4 authorized dealer/installer for future integration has been my initial stumbling block also. However the wireless capability and scalability, of the system seems appealing enough to help offset the premium paid.. I'm getting to a point (read "age") where reading instructions and fumbling through installing things has lost some of its appeal:o , so I beginning to lean in their direction.

Brad

I guess 'lucky' is relative. :) My house is like a shelter. The kids are off school still (and delayed opening tomorrow already), friends/family still without power have been here doing laundry, showering, spending the night, coming over to warm up, get a bite to eat (watch MNF), etc. It's been a crazy week. My Brother-in-law is still without power so looks like he, his wife, and two boys will be spending another night.

Just to clarify my comment about 'doing something different'. I think the control4 route was the correct choice. I may have made a different choice on the lighting controls if I knew I was going with Control4 all along. Right now I have full control over all my lights since I wired IR(cat6) from the Control4 controllers to the GE location, but I might have opted for lighting controls that have more native integration with Control4 systems. Control4 offers there own ZigBee wireless lighting swithces/dimmers. I'm sure there are other alternatives to the Lutron GEs that may have been a better choice for me as instead of the three GRX-3106's that I got.

NJ, I don't know how I've missed all this fun! Your basement looks FANTASTIC! Happy for you! I love the carpet and will consider it for my room.

Day 5 for many friends and family with no power. This is really getting ridiculous!

Tony, thanks. I know how you missed it. It's taken almost 2 years to get to this point and the lack of progress puts this thread on page 3 for quite a bit of time. :)

The carpet is Stanton Masquerade and was 'borrowed' from adammb (sweetwood theater). I really prefer the brown (caviar) he chose but the wife wanted more color so we went with the maroon (claret).

Projector is finally getting hung today! I invited a ton of people here for Super Bowl which is forcing me to make some meaningful progress. GO GIANTS!!!

Originally, I was waiting for the Epson 61000 but since that projector seems to be an 'urban legend', I opted for the 6010. I have the demo disk all ready to fire up. The only disappointment is that my Integra DTR-80.2 crapped out and needs warranty service. The good news, they are replacing it with an 80.3. But in the meantime I grabbed an old Yamaha receiver to use until the 80.3 comes in. Hopefully some pics up later today.

Just found your thread, I love your entire basement!!! Turned out amazing - congrats.

How did the super bowl party go? Lets see some pics of the theater now :)

Cheers

The Super Bowl party was a huge hit. We had 37 people. The theater was a bit over crowded but the overflow was comfy at the bar and in the media area. A few more were watching upstairs on the 60" LG plasma in my family room.

For food, I smoked 3 pork butts (which probably yeilded about 15+ pounds of pulled pork) and 10 racks of ribs.

Many commented that it was the best Super Bowl party ever (and not just because the Giants won!).

I know I'm delinquent in updating pics. I'll try this weekend.