What should I look for when shopping for an electrician? (Obviously licensed, and insured)

Do they charge by the job? Or hour?

This is what I'm looking to install:
1 sub panel off main panel. Wires will be run to basement.
1 15 amp circuit (for amplifier)
1 15 amp circuit (for electronics + projector)
1 10 amp circuit (for subs)
1 15 amp circuit for lighting run to 3 switches (stage, wall sconces, and indirect ceiling light)
1 15 amp circuit for 2 electric baseboard heaters
2 15 amp circuits for rest of basement (lighting & outlet rough ins)

Don't have much guidance to give you on the hiring part as I did my own.

If you're getting permits for the job, and your local abides by 2009 NEC code, keep in mind that you'll probably need combination type arc fault circuit interruptors instead of standard breakers at your subpanel. Those suckers cost around $35 a copy on average:eek:

I had ran many circuits willy-nilly to make life simpler and got sticker shock on the budget busting AFCI breakers. You might want to get some advise on how many circuits you really need if you're under the same NEC constraints. I'd bet you could cut 2 of those out by combining but that's just a guess not knowing what eqpt you have.

What should I look for when shopping for an electrician? (Obviously licensed, and insured)

Do they charge by the job? Or hour?

This is what I'm looking to install:
1 sub panel off main panel. Wires will be run to basement.
1 15 amp circuit (for amplifier)
1 15 amp circuit (for electronics + projector)
1 10 amp circuit (for subs)
1 15 amp circuit for lighting run to 3 switches (stage, wall sconces, and indirect ceiling light)
1 15 amp circuit for 2 electric baseboard heaters
2 15 amp circuits for rest of basement (lighting & outlet rough ins)

I'm a electrician (25 years). If you can find an out of work electrician, which these days isn't hard to find, you might get the job done on a time and material basis. Most contractors are going to bid it. Also it would be better to have the electrician determine your electrical needs. 10 amp breakers (even though I have seen them) are a no no, you can't go lower then 15a, and more often then not a base board heater requires a 20a circuit, but I could be wrong. If you are pulling permits and going to have inspections you might want to call the inspector and find out what version of the NEC he goes by. Most towns use a later version, such as my town goes by 2006 NEC. This could save you alot of cash in the long run, those arc fault breakers are expensive. I would talk to some friends who might know someone who is out of work, like I said there are alot of sitting right now and looking for some extra cash, like myself. I have done quite a few high end HT's and lighting systems, so if you have any questions I'd be glad to help you out, just PM me.

My electrician scoped out the job and gave me a firm price based on the plan we came up with together.

He based it on the number of new breakers (he complained about the cost of the arc fault breakers which my state requires), outlets, switches, lights, etc involved. He also did the GrafikEye install and the electrical hookup for our HVAC system which included running power to the new air handler and installing an add-on control board for the boiler.

I told him what I was providing with regard to light fixtures, outlet covers, switches, etc... and he based the quote off that.

Also here is a way for you to figure out what your power requirements really are.

1. Find out the total operating watts of each device (if the operating amps are not availble on the spec plate). Divide the operating watts by 120 (which is the voltage at your panel) this will give you the total operating amps in which the device will need.

2. If there is no amps or watts listed for the device but it has kilowatts (kw) listed on the spec plate then use this formula; kw x 1000 then divide that number by 120 and you will have the total amps needed.

Also, no circuit should run over 80% of its rated max. This means on a single 15a circuit the max load on that circuit should be no more then 12a.
Now even though you can run more then that without a problem does not mean there will never be a problem. Things wear out over time and next thing you know your house is burnt to the ground.
It's almost like a bridge that has a weight restriction of 10,000 lbs. but you are able to drive 20,000 lbs over it time and again. Even though it will care the load over time sooner or later it will fail and when it does you won't want to be there. This is the same for electrical. A 15a breaker and 14 awg wire will handle more then its marked to do but taxing it over time it will fail, and thats one thing I would hate to see is someone doing something and getting hurt.
Make sure your electrician is knowledgable.
Good Luck

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I was going to post something similar and I think it might give us both an idea of what to expect. I am going to hire an electrician to wire my basement. It is roughly 2100 sq ft and it is going to be wired for a kitchen (Stove, dishwasher, fridge, microwave) as well as outlets, lights, and theater. What is a ballpark figure I should expect?

Thanks

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I was going to post something similar and I think it might give us both an idea of what to expect. I am going to hire an electrician to wire my basement. It is roughly 2100 sq ft and it is going to be wired for a kitchen (Stove, dishwasher, fridge, microwave) as well as outlets, lights, and theater. What is a ballpark figure I should expect?

Thanks

There are alot of factors here that just giving a quick quote might not do you much good. I would say your looking at a figure with labor and material anywhere from $6k on up, the skys the limit and depends on your needs.

Now I am only figuring this of the top of my head and trying to factor in the fact that your labor rates and the type of materials being used differ from where I live and work (Chicago area), also this isn't like remodeling a powder room.

I would also check to see if your city or town allow full kichens to be installed in a basement, alot of towns and cities out here will not allow a range/oven to be installed in a basement.

Here are a few things that can add or reduce the cost of your project:

1. Is this going to require a permit
2. Do you have enough space in your panel, if not you will need a sub panel
3. The type of devices being installed i.e.; decora switches and outlets, screwless face plates
4. What kind of lighting and how many; cans line or low voltage
5. What type of switching; dimmers, dimming systems, what kind of dimmers or system can differ widely in price
6. HT controls and networking; this too can vary the price greatly.

I hope this helps you out

What ducktape says is right on...

1. Find out the total operating watts of each device (if the operating amps are not availble on the spec plate). Divide the operating watts by 120 (which is the voltage at your panel) this will give you the total operating amps in which the device will need.

Also, no circuit should run over 80% of its rated max. This means on a single 15a circuit the max load on that circuit should be no more then 12a.

My dad was/is an electrician, in the business since the early 70s, and also taught electrician's apprenticeship school for many years, and this is exactly how he told me to design the electrical system for my theater. While I am not an electrician, I spent enough time with him doing jobs as a kid to understand some very basics -- how to run cable, strip wires, mount boxes, wire switches/receptacles, etc. I drew up a complete wiring diagram, and sent it to him to be sure I was designing it all correctly. Of course, I wasn't in a few areas, but he corrected those, and now I plan to run all the wires in the walls, mount the boxes, and then do the drywall. After, I'll do most of the wiring of the receptacles/switches/lights, etc., but he'll fly down here and check that all out, as well as hook up all my circuits to the panel, while he's here.

My point is, you might be able to find an in-between-jobs electrician, who would, for a fee, look over your wiring diagram, and then let you run the wiring and stuff, and then come by and finish out just the parts of the job that you are uncomfortable with. That depends upon your comfort and skill level. Basically, though, you really can't screw up a whole lot simply running romex, as long as you pay SUPER close attention to not "nick" any of the plastic insulation, that you staple all your cable deep enough into the stud cavity (at about the middle of each stud) so that drywall screws/nails cannot penetrate the wire, etc.

Taking this type of approach could save you quite a bit of money, if you are up for it and can get someone qualified who is willing to work out such an arrangement with you. Of course, any good electrician would be concerned about the liability of you doing something wrong, and then blaming him, but I'd think that as long as you allowed him to inspect your work before you closed up the walls, (as he would with any apprentice working a job with him), you might find someone willing to work with you.

Just a thought...

Steve

What ducktape says is right on...



My dad was/is an electrician, in the business since the early 70s, and also taught electrician's apprenticeship school for many years, and this is exactly how he told me to design the electrical system for my theater. While I am not an electrician, I spent enough time with him doing jobs as a kid to understand some very basics -- how to run cable, strip wires, mount boxes, wire switches/receptacles, etc. I drew up a complete wiring diagram, and sent it to him to be sure I was designing it all correctly. Of course, I wasn't in a few areas, but he corrected those, and now I plan to run all the wires in the walls, mount the boxes, and then do the drywall. After, I'll do most of the wiring of the receptacles/switches/lights, etc., but he'll fly down here and check that all out, as well as hook up all my circuits to the panel, while he's here.

My point is, you might be able to find an in-between-jobs electrician, who would, for a fee, look over your wiring diagram, and then let you run the wiring and stuff, and then come by and finish out just the parts of the job that you are uncomfortable with. That depends upon your comfort and skill level. Basically, though, you really can't screw up a whole lot simply running romex, as long as you pay SUPER close attention to not "nick" any of the plastic insulation, that you staple all your cable deep enough into the stud cavity (at about the middle of each stud) so that drywall screws/nails cannot penetrate the wire, etc.

Taking this type of approach could save you quite a bit of money, if you are up for it and can get someone qualified who is willing to work out such an arrangement with you. Of course, any good electrician would be concerned about the liability of you doing something wrong, and then blaming him, but I'd think that as long as you allowed him to inspect your work before you closed up the walls, (as he would with any apprentice working a job with him), you might find someone willing to work with you.

Just a thought...

Steve

I agree.