Mike,

I just sent you an email with the pictures,
Let me know if you got them.

Cheers
Steve

Another excellent thread that makes this forum without a doubt the best avforum in the world.

I thought somebody might be interested in the index I made for myself of this thread with direct links to the upgrades/mods that has been made.

I'm sure it's not complete by a longshot and if somebody wants to contribute just post below or pm me and I'll include it in my post.

It would be great if Mike could put this in the first post as well.

Hope this helps!




Updated 061114 to include bblue's changes.


Video Neck Board (VNB) Post #15 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1720545#post1720545

6 22 100 uF 160V 105 degree
3 MAX4224 CLC449 or Harris (Intersil) HFA1100




Video Input Module (VIM) Post #45 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1742044#post1742044

6 MAX4224 CLC449 or Harris (Intersil) HFA1100





Anamorphic mod (Vert squeeze) Post #64 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1773948#post1773948

3 56.2K ohm digikey # 56.2KXB




High Voltage Power Supply (HVPS) G2 Post #251 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2202280#post2202280

r9,r10,r15,r16,r21,r22 560k 2watt
r5,r46 220 ohm 2watt
c1,c2 .47uF 630V
c6,c3 1uF 400V

Allied part #
BC COMPONENTS 2222-468-28105 Capacitors, Metallized Polyester, Radial, 1.0uF, 40
0 Volts 648-3080


BC COMPONENTS 2222-468-40474 Capacitors, Metallized Polyester, Radial, 0.47uF, 6
30 Volts 648-3116


OHMITE OY564K Resistor, Ceramic, Axial, 2 Watt, 10%, 560k 296-5456

BC COMPONENTS 5083NW220R0J12AFX
Resistor, Power, Film, Axial, 2 Watt, 5%, 220 Ohms (Pack of 100) 649-6128

In the HVPS the ceramic resistors are questionable. The do seem to work ok, but resistance drifts with temperature quite easily, and they are a low voltage resistor not designed to be operated in the G2 environment of ~800v. Metal Oxide (higher voltage types) seem to be the best choice.



Light Voltage Power Supply (LVPS) heater fix Post #475 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3291438#post3291438

20ohm pot
digikey 3299X-200-ND 20 OHM 3/8 SQ MT SL POT

475ohm 1206




Vertical Deflection Module (VDM) Post #177 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1937363#post1937363

fusable metal film resistrors at 1/2 watt
R720, R721, R820, R821, R920 and R921 R5 R6
change to .5 ohm
R720,R820,R920,R5,R6 should be replaced with 1 ohm, R721,R821,R920 should be replaced with two piggybacked 1 ohm.



Convergence Module (CVA) Post #177 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?
There are twelve of them on the convergence board
R118, R117, R218, R217, R318, R317, R418, R417, R518, R517, R618 and R617 and there are also 48 24 1.2 ohm near the power transistors.
The listed resistors are 1/4 fusibles, two piggybacked.



Horizontal Deflection Module (HDM) Post #167 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1924546#post1924546
220 mfd @ 160vdc cap (C50)

Unfortunately, some of the conclusions that appear to be drawn are at best, outdated, and at worst, just plain wrong.

The VNB's for example, could benefit from 100uf 160v caps in place of the 22uf's (which later changed to 33uf's). And I doubt you would really want to put a MAX4224 chip in there. That one was ruled out a long time ago.

Same on the VIM wrt 4224's. And no chips will install there and work correctly without additional circuit modifications.

On the VDM, 1/4w fusibles are fine. R720,R820,R920,R5,R6 should be replaced with 1 ohm, R721,R821,R920 should be replaced with two piggybacked 1 ohm.

On the CVA, the listed resistors are 1/4 fusibles, two piggybacked, and the reference to 48 1.2 ohms is actually 24 quantity.

You may also find other updates from other threads as you get to them. This is from memory, so I might have missed an update.

Oh, yes. In the HVPS the ceramic resistors are questionable. The do seem to work ok, but resistance drifts with temperature quite easily, and they are a low voltage resistor not designed to be operated in the G2 environment of ~800v. Metal Oxide (higher voltage types) seem to be the best choice.

It's best to check your schematics and the particular Marquee you are updating to confirm what really should be installed there.

--Bill

What a great thread, thanks Mike! I hope one of these days I will be able to give as much and not just take!

Does anyone have a source for the 449's that they are willing to share? I know they are obsolete but was hoping someone has a source or a stash. I only need enough for one M8000 (6)?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=416624. Try this thread for some info on what IC to use, MP knows which one to sub in, but he's not telling.

I know for the past year or so I've been promising to get back to this thread. I"ve had far too many distractions to stay on top of it. So in the near future we'll pick back up on the maintenance and upgrade area's of the Marquee's.

Over the past two years I've gathered a ton of stuff to add. And from my two visits to the desert (Arizona), I've even searched through Tim Martin's huge tech stash. So I've gathered the data, but have not had the time to devote to going forward with this thread.

This time we'll go back to the VIM and neck boards. I'll suggest a few IC's to use on both. Some will need a few changes to be made to the board and some won't. We'll even look at why most chips will not be a perfect replacement.

I'll even get back to the resistors on the vertical and convergence boards, which SHOULD be replaced (not jumped). And the replacement should be better than what the tech sheet suggest, and I'll go over how we got to a better replacement and why. I may even add a few tweaks this time for these and other boards. We'll even get into the control module this time, to include grounding and other noise lowering technics.

However, there's still proprietary things I cannot discuss ;)


BTW, most of the boards on the Marquee are being repaired. This repair work covers the VIM, NECK BOARDS, VERTICAL, HORIZONTAL, LOW VOLTAGE POWER SUPPLY, FOCUS, CONTROL, ASTIGMATOR, and we're even repairing some HIGH VOLTAGE power supplies. And in the future we hope to cover all HIGH VOLTAGE power supplies. This is a joint venture with Tim of E-Tech.

Looks like it will soon be time to break out the soldering iron,

This is great news Mike,
I am especially looking forward to it,
My Marquee gets here tomorrow morning :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:


Cheers
Steve

Oh yeah, it'll feel good to get back to this. Also, keep in mind that your input is also welcome. This thread on maintenance and such is just an information source from many to look over, add or use whatever is contributed. Therefore we're expecting participation from even the novice.

I'm only hoping that we can stop at some point along the way, and use a method or page that will indicate what was the final workable upgrade for the past item of discusion. That way it would be simpler to breeze through the thread, and get a good technical summery, without running with whatever is posted. I would like to see things played out where anyone would feel welcome to participate.

It's also good to see SLY posting again. I'm looking forward to him resurrecting his power supply mod. I've yet to try it, but for sure it makes more technical sense than the original design. And plus it's original.

We will keep our eyes open for anything that could cause harm to the projector, or anyone associated with it. So safety will be an issue.

Tagged for detailed reading.

I tried the LMH6702MAs on the neck card myself before I read this, and they
were very bad. They oscillated like a mother and caused immense amounts
of noise and smearing in the rasters. But they're cheap chips, like $1.25 each
or something, and I may choose to explore the possibility of developing a
simple little mod to tame that shrew and allow it to be used. Maybe I'll look
into that.

CJ

HI Mike,

Looks like it has been awhile (10-11-04) since you have posted the updated fixes for the Marquee. Is that to come any time soon?

Thanks

God bless...

Mark

Bumped for somebody who just picked up a M8111+ with P14=6.61v

Supposedly, somewhere around page 5 is sly's fix

I keep getting asked about the LVPS mod I did so here it is.

this is the trace that needs to be cut.
http://www.geocities.com/hvps2001/lvps/lvps_no_res.jpg

And this is the 475 Ohm resistor installed. I used a 805 size part rated at 1/8 watts you might want to use a 1206 for more wattage just to play it safe.
http://www.geocities.com/hvps2001/lvps/lvps_res.jpg

Now just install a 20 ohm pot.


Thats waht I get when I get sleepy
if you cant see the pics go to
here (http://www.geocities.com/hvps2001/lvps/)

that the prob with the free sites they want you to see there ads ;)bump

Another excellent thread that makes this forum without a doubt the best avforum in the world.

I thought somebody might be interested in the index I made for myself of this thread with direct links to the upgrades/mods that has been made.

I'm sure it's not complete by a longshot and if somebody wants to contribute just post below or pm me and I'll include it in my post.

It would be great if Mike could put this in the first post as well.

Hope this helps!

Video Neck Board (VNB) Post #15 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1720545#post1720545

6 22uF 160V 105 degree
3 MAX4224




Video Input Module (VIM) Post #45 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1742044#post1742044

6 MAX4224




Anamorphic mod (Vert squeeze) Post #64 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1773948#post1773948

3 56.2K ohm digikey # 56.2KXB




High Voltage Power Supply (HVPS) G2 Post #251 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2202280#post2202280

r9,r10,r15,r16,r21,r22 560k 2watt
r5,r46 220 ohm 2watt
c1,c2 .47uF 630V
c6,c3 1uF 400V

Allied part #
BC COMPONENTS 2222-468-28105 Capacitors, Metallized Polyester, Radial, 1.0uF, 40
0 Volts 648-3080


BC COMPONENTS 2222-468-40474 Capacitors, Metallized Polyester, Radial, 0.47uF, 6
30 Volts 648-3116


OHMITE OY564K Resistor, Ceramic, Axial, 2 Watt, 10%, 560k 296-5456

BC COMPONENTS 5083NW220R0J12AFX
Resistor, Power, Film, Axial, 2 Watt, 5%, 220 Ohms (Pack of 100) 649-6128




Light Voltage Power Supply (LVPS) heater fix Post #475 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3291438#post3291438

20ohm pot
digikey 3299X-200-ND 20 OHM 3/8 SQ CERM MT SL POT

475ohm 1206




Vertical Deflection Module (VDM) Post #177 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1937363#post1937363

fusable metal film resistrors at 1/2 watt
R720, R721, R820, R821, R920 and R921 R5 R6
change to .5 ohm




Convergence Module (CVA) Post #177 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?
There are twelve of them on the convergence board
R118, R117, R218, R217, R318, R317, R418, R417, R518, R517, R618 and R617 and there are also 48 1.2 ohm near the power transistors.




Horizontal Deflection Module (HDM) Post #167 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=1924546#post1924546
220 mfd @ 160vdc cap (C50)

bump

Light Voltage Power Supply (LVPS) heater fix Post #475 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3291438#post3291438
20ohm pot
digikey 3299X-200-ND 20 OHM 3/8 SQ CERM MT SL POT
475ohm 1206

It's also good to see SLY posting again. I'm looking forward to him resurrecting his power supply mod. I've yet to try it, but for sure it makes more technical sense than the original design. And plus it's original. i've been using Sly's mod ever since I started doing the LVPS P14 fix and it works excellent. I use a slightly looser resistor and mount it to the bottom of the board, but that's just personal preference. After the mod, the adjustment screw behaves very well, unlike the stock set-up which seems a little jumpy and way to coarse for dialing in exactly 6.35 volts.

I am ready to mod my PJ but:

I looked over the LVPS mod and could not figure something out.

How does the 20 ohm POT get attached to the LVPS?
Also, where do I mount the POT to the PJ? Pictures?

Could someone help out please?

Thanks everyone!

Darren

Darren,

I just soldered a pot into the same holes as the old one. Just use a decient pot and you will be all set. I haven't had any problems with the P14 voltage since I did the mod.

Steve

I measured the P14 voltage and got 6.42. Do I still need to correct and/or mod the LVPS?

Or can I just adjust the current pot and check again in a month or so?

Eager to get it hung up...!

Darren

I would love to have the neck board mod done to my projector but my experience in electronics is rather limited !!!

I have an early marquee 8000 , where could i get this done i live in England .


Maybe i could fedex the boards to the US ???

Or could i print out the notes above and take it with my neck boards to my TV Repair shop ???



Anyone want some freelance work ???

Don't have huge sums of mony though

Just a bump to make sure this doesn't eventually fall into the archives. ;)
And because I have a Marquee again. :D

Anyone want to PM me an offer to solder all the updates for me?

Glad I found it before I hung mine ;)

Oh, do I have a lot of reading to do :eek: , just in time sorta...I guess I should have read it BEFORE I hung the Marquee :o nahhh, Marquee' are so easy to work on it dosen't even matter if theyr'e on the ceiling. I I upgarded my VIM and neck-cards on the ceiling in 30 minutes, and have even replaced yokes on the ceiling. This is an awesome thread, each time I read it i'm able to digest a little more. :)

draganm, thanks again for the link! I have a crane built in to the ceiling should I need to remove the PJ. Might not have to for a while though.

I guess I should read before I ask these questions so please forgive me if its already addressed in this thread:

Eddie might be able to chime in but how do you know what mods or upgrades are done by Christie Digital?

The MP mod is a good one I'm sure, but I'll tell you one thing right now that I am not impressed with is the sharpness of this 9500LC. Its not completely dialed in yet and I'm eventually going to have it calibrated but as it stands right now my Ampro4600HD kicked its you know what. What are the primary things that affect the sharpness? Other than tube type which is obvious. I think, lol.

Okay on to the reading....:)

Aron, have you adjusted the magnets yet? You will want to do that. Let me know if you need the setup guides for doing that. I've accumulated all the ones posted here, I'm sure.

Regarding the Ultra factory mods, those can be found with a search but the big ones are LVPS filament fixed, bandwidth raised, 16x9 done, added geometry adjustments to make it easier to setup a proper screen and also something was done to increase sharpness. Tim could tell you more!

BUMP

As flattering as it is to my ego, I've been getting PM's from people with their first Marquee's (I hate the word newb) regarding some of the excellent info contained in this thread; specifically the P14 filament voltage fix. As it's been a couple months since this was on the front page, I thought it appropriate to bump it back into the main conciousness for their sake.

For Marquee folks just joining us, go to page 18 of this thread. At the top will be some most excellent pics from Sly showing his version of the P14 filament voltage fix, and for everthing relating to the upgrades (not mods perse`) mentioned in the previous 17 pages, Clarence has kindly taken the time to join all the pertinent info into an informal sticky reply.

I find myself going back to this every couple weeks to see how much more things are "clicking" for me as I spend time over and under the hood of my 8500.

BTW, Have we gone as far as we can with this thread without getting into proprietary mods? I hope not. I'd like to do as much as I can with/to my pj before The Invasion of the Bulbies takeover and/or parts cost too much to keep it alive.

BUMP

As flattering as it is to my ego, I've been getting PM's from people with their first Marquee's (I hate the word newb) regarding some of the excellent info contained in this thread; specifically the P14 filament voltage fix. As it's been a couple months since this was on the front page, I thought it appropriate to bump it back into the main conciousness for their sake.

For Marquee folks just joining us, go to page 18 of this thread. At the top will be some most excellent pics from Sly showing his version of the P14 filament voltage fix, and for everthing relating to the upgrades (not mods perse`) mentioned in the previous 17 pages, Clarence has kindly taken the time to join all the pertinent info into an informal sticky reply.

I find myself going back to this every couple weeks to see how much more things are "clicking" for me as I spend time over and under the hood of my 8500.

BTW, Have we gone as far as we can with this thread without getting into proprietary mods? I hope not. I'd like to do as much as I can with/to my pj before The Invasion of the Bulbies takeover and/or parts cost too much to keep it alive.

BUMP

As flattering as it is to my ego, I've been getting PM's from people with their first Marquee's (I hate the word newb) regarding some of the excellent info contained in this thread; specifically the P14 filament voltage fix. As it's been a couple months since this was on the front page, I thought it appropriate to bump it back into the main conciousness for their sake.

For Marquee folks just joining us, go to page 18 of this thread. At the top will be some most excellent pics from Sly showing his version of the P14 filament voltage fix, and for everthing relating to the upgrades (not mods perse`) mentioned in the previous 17 pages, Clarence has kindly taken the time to join all the pertinent info into an informal sticky reply.

I find myself going back to this every couple weeks to see how much more things are "clicking" for me as I spend time over and under the hood of my 8500.

BTW, Have we gone as far as we can with this thread without getting into proprietary mods? I hope not. I'd like to do as much as I can with/to my pj before The Invasion of the Bulbies takeover and/or parts cost too much to keep it alive.


In post #506, Mike Parker stated that he had a bunch of additional stuff that he wanted to get around to posting, so it sounds like at least at that point in time there was more non-proprietary items. That situation may very well be different now. It sure would be nice to have another run at additional items, though.

I know I'm certainly starting down the mod path soon, so I'm always interested in anything I can try! :)

I know I'm certainly starting down the mod path soon, so I'm always interested in anything I can try! :)

Didn't you just have Terry up to calibrate that PJ? If so, I wouldn't make any changes till you're prepaired to have it re-calibrated again

Chip

For those of you who wants to build up the gamma correction; here it is.


Does it make sense to build a gamma correction for green and red too?


I get the feeling that the purpose of the blue gamma is not fully understood. The Marquee was designed when the CRT projector was about the only game in town. Back then there were "spec" wars with each manufacturer trying to outspec the other. Light output was one of the specs that Electrohome decided was important. With a projector without any gamma correction what happens when you start driving the system hard? The blue output doesn't keep up with the other colors and the image starts turning yellowish. Electrohome decided to boost the higher level blue output to keep up with the green and red. Attached is a simulation of the blue gamma circuit showing linear input vs output.

Didn't you just have Terry up to calibrate that PJ? If so, I wouldn't make any changes till you're prepaired to have it re-calibrated again

Chip


I'm not talking anything radical Chip ;). Just if there's little things I can do to improve the picture already.

guys, I do not understand one thing...if marquees need so much modifications/fixes to work correctly...why does everyone love them so much here?

Also, everyday I see some one asking for help about this or that issue with their Marquee. I think it will be safe to say that they are not very reliable PJs. Maybe they are down there, right with the Ampros.

I hear a 9500LC may be a contender for the G90's crown, but with all these issues...REALLY ??????


Or I am getting something wrong?

guys, I do not understand one thing...if marquees need so much modifications/fixes to work correctly...why does everyone love them so much here?

Also, everyday I see some one asking for help about this or that issue with their Marquee. I think it will be safe to say that they are not very reliable PJs. Maybe they are down there, right with the Ampros.

I hear a 9500LC may be a contender for the G90's crown, but with all these issues...REALLY ??????


Or I am getting something wrong?

They work fine without these tweaks. The tweaks, as I understand them just help to make the image cleaner and more stable. Granted, there are things like the filament voltage that some machines require (mine being one of them), but other than that and the vertical squeeze mod, mine is as stock as they come.

I love my Marquee for two reasons. 1.) I got it for a great price, and 2.) spare parts are abundant.

guys, I do not understand one thing...if marquees need so much modifications/fixes to work correctly...why does everyone love them so much here?

Also, everyday I see some one asking for help about this or that issue with their Marquee. I think it will be safe to say that they are not very reliable PJs. Maybe they are down there, right with the Ampros.

I hear a 9500LC may be a contender for the G90's crown, but with all these issues...REALLY ??????


Or I am getting something wrong?
I don't have acces to the total number of Marquee's sold that are out there still alive but logic dicates that if there are greater numbers of them than any other brand you'll hear more about them.

My 8500 has only had a couple basic updates and yet I'm still in awe of the pq; my amateurish setup and calibration notwithstanding.

As far as alot of requets for help I think you'll find those are mainly from new Marquee owners who are overwhelmed with the initial complexities of getting a watchable pic; and don't yet know how to find answers with the accursedly lame search function.

Mike has had a full plate from the sounds but that's cool with me. I bought a great soldering station, I'm getting a 150Mhz scope, and I'm gonna learn how to use them both proficiently and be ready for him to pick this thread up again. :D

bump.

I just own an ECP but this thread is so interesting I think it diserves not to fall back. :)

Bump,

I just picked up Energeezer's 8500ultra and just finished 18 pages of reading!! What a great thread. It kinda ends with Mike saying he will start up the next round but then silence!

Any change this will get lit back up? I know there are Marquee owners out there that would love to plug in their soldering irons again!

How about it Mike?

does anybody have all these gems in a more "Formatted" document?
This thread is full of very good info but its hard to glean from all the chaff.

I doubt it will continue on much more. Most of these 'mods/upgrades' are now being sold so there is not much incentive to give away free.

Any change this will get lit back up? I know there are Marquee owners out there that would love to plug in their soldering irons again!
How about it Mike?

I doubt it will continue on much more. Most of these 'mods/upgrades' are now being sold so there is not much incentive to give away free.
There's a lot more to it than just that. All the previous stuff talked about can be done by a person with basic soldering skills. the changes that are being done now to the VIM and neck-cards are very, very advanced. I have some V2 cards here fo Beta testing and I can tell you the amount of work on them is astounding. entire sections of the board are de-populated and many very-small SMD chips are replaced. Picture trying to solder a centipede's legs to a very delicate circuit board. :eek:
Even someone with very advanced soldering skills should think twice about attempting to do some of these changes. Even if MP won the lottery and didn't need to pay the rent, putting this info out on the forum would result in dozen's of ruined cards from newbs taking an iron to their boards.
Trust me on this one, if you really want to improve your Marquee's video performance just buyt he boards. They are well worth it, I will posting a comprehensive review later on tonight.

I agree, these mods are strictly for someone with advanced soldering and assembly skills, and I mean advanced skills with SURFACE MOUNT components.

I'm able, but then again, I have a surface mount rework station that has gotten plenty of use..

have some V2 cards here fo Beta testing.....

I thought that these are already final according to MP and Tim?? v2 is already installed in both my Ultra's :)

I thought that these are already final according to MP and Tim?? v2 is already installed in both my Ultra's :) it's a long story, mike sent me the V2 months ago and I was planning to show them in a local HT meet. Well my plans unfolded very slowly, I built a new bigger screen, moved the PJ and did a full set-up, and even mucked around with my audio. It took a lot longer than I thought it would but it turned out very well, the HT meet was a big success.

Nothing is ever final in the world of after market product modifications. Modders have new insights, get better test equipment, new better parts come along, etc etc etc etc. Its not final until the modder never touches the thing again.

I had a friend, who is now dead, whot was a famous tone ar designer and manufacturer. He would often call me late in the evening with news of another change to his product that significantly improved the sound. Who would have though, he would say, that making this one more small change could significantly improve his masterpiece.This happened on a continual basis.

Who would have thought removing this needless relay, this slight change to the design of a previous mod, inserting this newer chip, etc etc. But that's the way it goes in the world of CRT modifications. And with respect to a Marquee the video circuits are a VIM, the three neckboards, and the connecting RGB wires. The boards are complex and areas on them can be improved by a variety of methods. Who would of thought that changing this to that could make such a difference. There always will be a better way. The modder will learn more and discover more. analysis after the fact will result in the reason why.

Mark, point taken, however MP tells me he is satisfied with his work on the Marquee's and probably won't do any further modifications to them :)

I thought that these are already final according to MP and Tim?? v2 is already installed in both my Ultra's :)

The lastest verion (V2) is more recent than thought. You would have the latest upgrades that would include the changes to the neck boards. The lastest changes would have been made after my visit to VDC. When there I picked up a test nugget from Scott that has allowed me to take things to another level. So your boards were shipped after my visit to VDC, therefore you're current. However, at Dragon's HT meet there were concerns of gamma or having to increase the brightness to bring out shadow detail. That's not something that we've experienced during my testing, and everytime an issue is mentioned, I feel I should look into it. Dragon has an 03 VIM. You have 02's. They're a little different from each other, and in some cases the y perform slightly different from each other depending on the variables (source device, etc).

The noted brightness issue was a concern coming from an HTPC. Mainly because V2 is my "Super" mods. I also called it "Perect Gamma" But with Dragons indication that it may need a gamma circuit, that made me take another look at things... I'll be sending him another 03 VIM to evaluate and compare to the one he has. One of the changes (gamma) that I made to the lastest version I did not implement in the ones that were sent out. I honestly did not feel it was necessary. The board that I'll be sending out today or tomorrow for comaprision, should eliminate any doubt about gamma being a problem. Let's see what he has to say after he gets the board. Not sure if this is the same problem with the verson boards (02) that you have, so I'll be checking an 02 board today, and if it needs the changes, I'll ship you two upgraded VIM's that would have the same changes made.



I doubt it will continue on much more. Most of these 'mods/upgrades' are now being sold so there is not much incentive to give away free.

Actually, there's nothing in this thread that's being used in my lastest mods. I've made some slight recommendations for performance changes, and they would make for changes to some degree, but it's nothing that I'm using now, or at the time that I was doing this thread.

I would like to continue with this thread, and have acquired a lot more tech stuff to post, but doubt that I'll have the time to stay with it consistantly.




does anybody have all these gems in a more "Formatted" document?
This thread is full of very good info but its hard to glean from all the chaff.

Someone had condensed the thread and sent it to me, but i can't find it.

MP... so I have the latest version of your mods except for the gamma fix?? or are you saying my 02 VIM may not need this? can you keep me posted if you do find it needs a fix, so I can send both out to you asap before I get my setup pro calibrated. Thanks Mike!

MP... so I have the latest version of your mods except for the gamma fix??

Yes, you're good there. And if I find that the 02's would need the gamma upgrade, I'll send you a prime set of 02's. Just send the two that you have back to me once you get them.

The lastest verion (V2) is more recent than thought. You would have the latest upgrades that would include the changes to the neck boards. The lastest changes would have been made after my visit to VDC. When there I picked up a test nugget from Scott that has allowed me to take things to another level. So your boards were shipped after my visit to VDC, therefore you're current. However, at Dragon's HT meet there were concerns of gamma or having to increase the brightness to bring out shadow detail. That's not something that we've experienced during my testing, and everytime an issue is mentioned, I feel I should look into it. Dragon has an 03 VIM. You have 02's. They're a little different from each other, and in some cases the y perform slightly different from each other depending on the variables (source device, etc).

The noted brightness issue was a concern coming from an HTPC. Mainly because V2 is my "Super" mods. I also called it "Perect Gamma" But with Dragons indication that it may need a gamma circuit, that made me take another look at things... I'll be sending him another 03 VIM to evaluate and compare to the one he has. One of the changes (gamma) that I made to the lastest version I did not implement in the ones that were sent out. I honestly did not feel it was necessary. The board that I'll be sending out today or tomorrow for comaprision, should eliminate any doubt about gamma being a problem. Let's see what he has to say after he gets the board. Not sure if this is the same problem with the verson boards (02) that you have, so I'll be checking an 02 board today, and if it needs the changes, I'll ship you two upgraded VIM's that would have the same changes made.


Hmm....gamma tweaks eh? I've been meaning to shoot you an email... ;)

Actually, there's nothing in this thread that's being used in my lastest mods. I've made some slight recommendations for performance changes, and they would make for changes to some degree, but it's nothing that I'm using now, or at the time that I was doing this thread.



I remember doing the smt chips on the neckboards (can't remember the numbers but think they were op-amps) a while ago..you saying you no longer update these in your mods to neckboard?
I am about to get a 9500 and would want to get modded parts, so do you have a listing of what 'is' changed in each so a person could compare and do some of what you say is missing, but posted earlier on?

Hmm....gamma tweaks eh? I've been meaning to shoot you an email... ;)

When you do your next HT meet, be mindful to remind me of it. I'll send you a complete (VIM/Neck Boards) board set.

Make sure you have both Dave and Phil present, and then you could do a comparison between my mods and Greg's. Have him also send you his modded neck boards.




I remember doing the smt chips on the neckboards (can't remember the numbers but think they were op-amps) a while ago..you saying you no longer update these in your mods to neckboard?
I am about to get a 9500 and would want to get modded parts, so do you have a listing of what 'is' changed in each so a person could compare and do some of what you say is missing, but posted earlier on?

If you want to replace the CLC449's, you can do that with Harris (Intersil) HFA1100's. They're basically the same bandwidth and would work well.

I've used several different op amps in that same circuit, but it's not an easy thing to do. If you go with anything other than the HFA1100, you'll more likely have to make changes to the surrounding circuits. And that could take months to get right. So it's best to go with the HFA100.

I think the 1100 is what we all decided on and used...sounds familiar now.

But anyways, you saying that most of the upgrades discussed are 'not' part of the mods people can purchase? I would assume the modded parts must come pretty well with all the newer OEM/aftermarket parts that this thread has been upgrading to make them worth modding in the first place. Having a list of what parts were 'not' done (I can understand if you want to stay clear of listing what you 'do' do), that could be done, would be helpful for someone that gets all the mods but still can do a couple other things from this thread to tweak, or do you suggest mods only and leave everything else as is?
All the power to tweakers, but it seems like a bit of a waste for a person who wants to go all the way to video nirvana, to go through the thread, risk damaging parts trying to do smt work, then also buy mods if they make all that mucking around a waste of time.

But anyways, you saying that most of the upgrades discussed are 'not' part of the mods people can purchase?

Corect. the exception being "upgrades" - in that if an upgrade is needed, it would be implimented to that "modded board" during to mod process.



I would assume the modded parts must come pretty well with all the newer OEM/aftermarket parts that this thread has been upgrading to make them worth modding in the first place

:confused:



All the power to tweakers, but it seems like a bit of a waste for a person who wants to go all the way to video nirvana, to go through the thread, risk damaging parts trying to do smt work, then also buy mods if they make all that mucking around a waste of time.

That's the main reason why this thread is about "maintenance" and "upgrades".

We've also been very careful to stay away from performance tweaking, etc. So if one seeks "video nirvana" this is not the thread for it.

Correct me if I am wrong but the thread to this point has really been about updating the Marquee to incorporate a lot of what the late model ones have. More of a preventive maintenance and clean up a few electrohome short comings. Is this correct?

Now Mike is selling his mods and thats great ... he has shared a few points of wisdem here and there. .. Thanks Mike!

What I am really after is what we have to do to improve the picture of a late model (1999) Marquee ultra. I have some NEW tubes coming in tomorrow (Thanks Terry) and would like to get everything out of them that I can.

So maybe Mike can outline an upgrade path on what info he can share and what he sells. What is our biggest bang for the buck? VIM? Neck boards? I never see a price for Mike's mods... is this public? If not Mike can you PM me?

What are other Marquee guys doing out there? Has anyone made improvements they would like to share? (I will admit and can solder but I'm no jedi with the tool)

I think this thread started out as mainrenance, things to check to make sure you are not frying things, to get a longer life out of the PJ. Somewhere along the way it turned into what I also thought was just more 'updating' the older parts to what the newer PJ's had and it was great to do the things and actually learn more about the PJ..many thanks to Mike.

But I am looking at getting a 9500lc and just don't have the time (or really the inclination) to rip it apart and work on all the boards. BUT, having said that I would if there was something 'extra' I could do that would make a big dif to 'go along with' the modded boards I would have done or buy by Mike/Tim. So Mike, ya seem to skirt it..so is Tim the guy to ask what 'isn't' included even if it is just maintenance related? It would be nice to have a checklist to go along with mods just to make sure all other parts, voltages..etc are cool before mounting it 10 feet into a hole in the roof.. :o

So Mike, ya seem to skirt it..so is Tim the guy to ask what 'isn't' included even if it is just maintenance related? It would be nice to have a checklist to go along with mods just to make sure all other parts, voltages..etc are cool before mounting it 10 feet into a hole in the roof.. :o

Actually the Marquee is fine as is. What we've been posting here is just tweaks and such that could make things better, but not necessarily.

A lot of what had been shared on this, was based on experiences from others on the Marquee and when I was working with them on my full time jobs. Since I've left those jobs, there have been tech bulletins that covered other things. And now that the Marquee is in the hands of the folk at VDC, there'll still be tech bulletins to come.

The Marquee is the only CRT projector to exceed being in production over a 10 year period. So of course, there's always going to be an upgrade or some other change that can be made to it. However, once you get past the first units made (1993/1994) they were really good units. And as such, there's really nothing to be that concerned about with units after 1994.

Tim has a bunch of stuff on the Marquees, and he shares what he has and knows openly on the forum. For a projector that has been in production for over 10 years, it doing very good as is. And if there's a failure, a solution is also easy to find.

The first and most important thing to do with a marquee, is make sure it has the upgraded filament pot. Beyond that, it's all easy.

Cool..thanks Mike. I noticed you do not have a banner..so do I just contact you directly when I do the 9500 jump?

Cool..thanks Mike. I noticed you do not have a banner..so do I just contact you directly when I do the 9500 jump?

The contact for mods is Tim. And if you purchase a 9500 from him, I'll work with you on some of the things that you mentioned.. ;)

Update: With Mike's permission, the Marquee Maintenence information in the preceding 10 pages has been extracted and summarized here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Marquee_Maintenance1.shtm

Thanks for forum member Joustman (Barry) for doing the extraction work!

The website will be updated as pertinent info is added here.

Kal

Thanks Kal.
Anyone who has suggestions for modification or improvement can send me a PM or email to Joust^-@-^sympatico^-.-^ca and I'll be happy to consider and update the doc accordingly. :)

thank Kal, One thing that might help (would help me) is if you put the value of the replacement parts. For example the LVPS uses 560K ohm resistor but what are the cap values. If you could give some digi-key part numbers that would be great!.

thanks

Hi PiDD,

560K ohm in the LVPS? I just re-read what Mike wrote for the LVPS and I don't see anything about a 560K resistor or caps at all... all he talks about is the tube filament (heater) fix.

Afraid I can't do that myself... I'm only transposing what Mike wrote himself.

Kal

thank Kal, One thing that might help (would help me) is if you put the value of the replacement parts. For example the LVPS uses 560K ohm resistor but what are the cap values. If you could give some digi-key part numbers that would be great!.

thanks

Hmm, maybe 560k was a bad example. I searched my entire doc and couldn't find that. I understand what you mean though. I can add these types of things. But honestly common resistors and caps can be found anywhere. I thought i'd only provide sources for more hard to find parts. I suppose it would not hurt to give a link and more experienced readers will go to their fav place regardless.
links also have a tendancy to go dead over time.

I agree with Joustman - Sourcing the common parts like resistors/caps/etc should be the easy part, and external links are always changing. I'd suggest looking at large electronic stors like Digikey, Mouser, etc if you need common parts.

My feeling's always been that these procedures that Mike P. has put together are meant for hobbiests that are familiar with electronics and already do some of this stuff on the side. If someone understands Mike's instructions then they'll already know where to source the common parts.

This is why I prefaced the procedures with the following words: Note: The procedures outlined in this section require a good knowledge of electronics and soldering.

Kal

Sorry Guys my bad .. i meant the HVPS as depicted here...

http://www.curtpalme.com/images/Marquee_Maintenance6.jpg

The Caps here...
http://www.curtpalme.com/images/Marquee_Maintenance8.jpg

I agree I could get the resistors pretty easy but would like some help with the caps.

I agree I could get the resistors pretty easy but would like some help with the caps.

Leave the caps in, and put a 1500pf/1600vdc cap on each (parallel) of the orange (C1/C2) caps.

That's a good and later version HVPS, but it still should have the two 220 ohm carbon resistors (R5/R46) replaced. And whenever they appear burnt, it's critical.

When replacing, try not to use carbon composite, and never use metal film there.

Oh, and those 560k's that you have in the photo is fine, if they were carbon composite, only then would they be good candidates for change.

Bump!

I updated the index i made of this thread in post #502 to include bblue's changes that was posted in the next post since I've noticed that this index I did has been circulating around different forums without reference to the changes bblue suggested.
What I dd was I added his changes and crossed over the previous recommendations in case some one wants to know what was recommended earlier.


You can find the index here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4453989&&#post4453989

Please let me know if something is incorrect and if you want me to add something and I'll edit the post asap.

So the MAX4224 was ruled out? Does that leave us with the CLC449 or Harris (Intersil) HFA1100 as the only replacements?

Hi Everyone i found a source for about 20 CLC 449's for 9.08 per chip if i order all. i'll order and if any one wants the ones i dont use let me know.

Athanasios

Hello Nashou66

Thank you for your offer.
I am interested in buying at least 3 CLC 449.
I' ve sent you a Private Message.

Pascal

Bump so this thread won't get archived anytime soon.

Good idea Eddie!

Now for the convergence board. This board is very well designed, with only one exception, yep, they used the same little mickey mouse resistors on this board. The early version boards had one each, while the later version boards had a double stack. There are twelve of them on the convergence board (24/stacked on the later version). R118, R117, R218, R217, R318, R317, R418, R417, R518, R517, R618 and R617. There are also 48 1.2 ohm (same mickey-mouse resistors) right near the power transistors.

mike would these resistors cause a non convergance problem if they went bad? like in my post here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=849010

also which failed resistor would cause this?

Athanasios

Athanasios, I hope you get your answer soon.

Btw, to add to this thread... this is what I posted over at Curt's forum:

Guys, it's "maintenence", not "maintenance". So if you do any searching on yahoo or google for the term, try both words for maximum hits. :D

Anyways, I sent www.digikey.com an email requesting a quote and they returned one to me. But I still have to clarify how long it would take to get parts mailed out.

In the meantime, I'll post the list of parts that digikey has. I didn't search for the LVPS, VIM or Neckboard mods, since Tim at www.etechvideo.com modified my LVPS for the filament voltage and noise reduction, and Mike Parker modifed my VIM & Neckboards already.

So here is my parts list. Keep in mind that I'm not enough of a tech to know if every part will work or not. Most of the stuff in the marquee list on the other thread, was located. A couple items I had to guess on.

14 each for Vertical Board (6x2 + 2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

24 each for Convergence Board (12x2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

48 each for Convergence Board
DIGIKEY Part # PPC1.5BCT-ND
RES 1.5 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.51 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # BC1806-ND
CAP FILM MKT 1UF 400VDC 10%
$1.11 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # BC1872-ND
CAP FILM MMKP .47UF 630VDC 5%
$1.92 each

6 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # OY564KE-ND
RES CERAMIC COMP 560K OHM 2W
$1.22 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # PPC220W-2CT-ND
RES 220 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5%
$0.60 each

It all came out to ~$105 plus $5 shipping. Still waiting to find out how long it'll take to get shipped. All parts were listed as "in stock", but the quote they sent me made it *appear* as though some parts would take six months before they are mailed out. I'll confirm and report back.

The minimum quantities are very low. The highest minimum quantity was like 10 of the item. So it doesn't look like a group purchase will really be needed? I don't have the spare cash this week, so it'll be awhile before I place my order.

I think this should be added to the maintenance list, scroll down tot he board pics for clm maintanance.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=869329&page=1&pp=30&highlight=clm+mods

Athanasios

I just HAD to bump this up by asking some silly questions and being lazy at the same time.

Has anyone tried the LMH6703 ?

I recently did almost all maintenance procedures for my EHM8000 posted here including the change of CLC409 to LMH6702.

Since the LMH6702 is considered faulty should I try the LMH6703 (thanks for the advice, MP! ) and if so, how will I know (do I see it in the picture or what) if I should change the feedback resistor value or not? What about replacing the feedback resistor with a network of a lin. potentiometer and a resistor to find a proper value?

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/980/tykki.jpg

Here's my baby. She used to be all gray but not anymore :D

Nice black paint job. :)

No, it does not reflect anything in the HT. And the reason it's white is my wife and our white wood ceiling. Black would just stand out too much. This being a little "bling-bling" (should I add some of that gold paint I got back there?)

Just kidding. It looks great.

What about replacing the feedback resistor with a network of a lin. potentiometer and a resistor to find a proper value?


Hello. Not good idea.. Feedback resistor should be as small as it can be. So you can test with small (0,25w-0.5w) normal resistor. But when you have found right value then use smd-resistor. High speed op-amps dont like any extra capacitance/inductance..

I think I'll order three LMH6703 and start with replacing just one and see if I can see a difference between a LMH6702, 1100 and the LMH6703.

If anyone wants the CLC449 chips i'm trying to get a larger order to maybe bring the price down right now they can be had for 9- 10 bucks each. lets get a list going. I'll be going toi greece for three weeks form december 2nd to the 23rd so it be nice to try to get the order in before i go and then i can send them out after i get back. the more we get the better the price i think. lets hope.

Athanasios

Edit:: I no longer plan to use these, i think there might be a better replacement

I think I'll order three LMH6703 and start with replacing just one and see if I can see a difference between a LMH6702, 1100 and the LMH6703.

So whats the news? Do either of the LMH670X's work? i have 9 of the 6702 but have not tried them since mike said they are not tottaly right with out some resistor and possible cap changes. I guess he wants or likes a direct pop in and what ever became of the Max's? i know a single resistor change for the neck boards but how about on the vims, and the older vims too(2006-02p)?

Athnasios

So whats the news? Do either of the LMH670X's work? i have 9 of the 6702 but have not tried them since mike said they are not tottaly right with out some resistor and possible cap changes. I guess he wants or likes a direct pop in and what ever became of the Max's? i know a single resistor change for the neck boards but how about on the vims, and the older vims too(2006-02p)?

Athnasios

Now, let me be clear on this.

Do NOT test the 6702 or the 6703. It's a waste of your time. You CAN try to make them work ok, but I bet the picture quality or bandwidth will remain the same or worse.

The 6703 seems to work as a direct substitute but had some issues compared to the 1100 and 449.

The 6702 is a piece of crap. At first it seems to give more gain and a sharper picture but the truth is it doesn't. DON'T use it!

As for VIM, I do not know if they do anything there.

Truth is, I should have:
a) VNB's that have GOOD transistors and other stuff.. The VNB's I have now are first generation crap.
b) At least one VNB for reference.
c) A later model PJ in good condition.
d) An oscilloscope.

And I have none of the above, so I'm shooting in the dark here.

If you have something to ask before I have these, ask MP or 1031.

Now, let me be clear on this.

Do NOT test the 6702 or the 6703. It's a waste of your time. You CAN try to make them work ok, but I bet the picture quality or bandwidth will remain the same or worse.

The 6703 seems to work as a direct substitute but had some issues compared to the 1100 and 449.

The 6702 is a piece of crap. At first it seems to give more gain and a sharper picture but the truth is it doesn't. DON'T use it!

As for VIM, I do not know if they do anything there.

Truth is, I should have:
a) VNB's that have GOOD transistors and other stuff.. The VNB's I have now are first generation crap.
b) At least one VNB for reference.
c) A later model PJ in good condition.
d) An oscilloscope.

And I have none of the above, so I'm shooting in the dark here.

If you have something to ask before I have these, ask MP or 1031.

Thanks for the clarification. I have some of the max chip comming and will try those. I'm just playing around with the older neck card and vims just for fun and learning experiance.The specs sheets for both do say to use different value feedback resistors and some difrent caps than the original design of the vime and VNB use, but i dont think i want to go into trying to change all that and find the perfect values. if i mess up a old vim or neck card noone will get mad. ;)

Athanasios

Would this be a good choice for a clc449 replacement?

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa695.pdf

And what value feed back resistor would be used? 523 ohm?

Athanasios

Funny..I got those opa`s here and i have tested those, not yet with good results. But that seems to be best canditate so far. Test/tweaking time is biggest issue right now:( That is so time consuming...

what feed back resitor are you using? the data sheets say 511 for a +2 gain. Isnt that what we want?
Also where have you tried them? Vim or VNB's?

Also have you looked into improving the SD5401 switcher? Some one mentiond here that it can be a week link in the video chain.

Athanasios

Also have you looked into improving the SD5401 switcher? Some one mentiond here that it can be a week link in the video chain.

Athanasios

Yes:D
http://www.dvdplaza.fi/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9241&d=1196405985
I tested to bypass that sd5401 with buffered videoselector.. picture looked better but that buffered videoselector wasnt fast enouqht to make proper side blanking:(

About that opa chip. I really dont remember what was fb-resistor value when i tested that. I need to found some time and start those tests all from beginning.

What type of caps are those big white ones in the pic,the 47uf ones? Or are they resistors?

Athanasios

What type of caps are those big white ones in the pic,the 47uf ones? Or are they resistors?

Athanasios

Those are 0.47uF plastic smd caps.

link: http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/inforuta.pl?textfield=6553200

I c, I replaced mine with similar ones that were originaly there just a higher voltage rating..47uf also.

Athanasios

Guys

The 220 ohm metal film resistors for hvps are no good; you want ceramic. Mike Parker mentioned on another thread.

Guys

The 220 ohm metal film resistors for hvps are no good; you want ceramic. Mike Parker mentioned on another thread.

Yes i am using the Ohmite ceramics and have gotten deeper blacks as a result with less "snow" in the background.

off to change out my VNB carbon comps with ohmite ceramics....see ya !!!

Athanasios

LVPS: OK this may have been covered already but I had trouble finding it. What is the reason you don't just replace the resistor R224 (120.6 Ohm) with a larger one 120ohm + 475 = 595 ohm std value 590 ohm mouser part 273-590-RC. I thought I read something about not using metal film. I understand you need to replace the failing 20ohm pot from digikey.

I don't see why you need to cut the trace just to add a resistor in series. It seems like an over complicated solution. But maybe I missing a key factor.

You want to ad a pot to adjust it to the closest value to 6.35v. putting in afixed resistor wont allow you to do that, and the value isn,t always the same or i should say are off from actual values. you dont have to cut the trace you can conect it from underneth the board as well.

Athanasios

I realize you have to put a pot regardless. I just want to remove R224 and put in a larger one. can this be done?

I find cutting a trace rather tedious.

I need to put my glasses on. I completely missed that last sentence. Thanks

Digikey does not have any of the 20ohm pots 3299X-1-200-ND anyone know where I can get them?

I believe in all honesty that if you are concerned about the "POT", replacement with the same part, new production will work just fine. My 9500 had over 25K hours on the chassis and it still had the original pot in the LVPS and was very stable.

I read the tech bulletin on the lvps on curts site. Mine was made in 95 before the problem. I did not realize that I thought it was all lvps. I tuned it in to 6.35v and it has stuck there. I will keep an eye on it though :-) Thanks

This may have been posted before. But I did my best to gather the information so its easy to buy the parts all at once. Then have a weekend of burning the soldering iron!!!! Please let me know if anything has changed or if I have something wrong!
Thanks

Source for common marquee repair/update parts.


14 each for Vertical Board (6x2 + 2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

24 each for Convergence Board (12x2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

48 each for Convergence Board
DIGIKEY Part # PPC1.5BCT-ND
RES 1.5 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.51 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # BC1806-ND
CAP FILM MKT 1UF 400VDC 10%
$1.11 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # BC1872-ND
CAP FILM MMKP .47UF 630VDC 5%
$1.92 each

6 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # OY564KE-ND
RES CERAMIC COMP 560K OHM 2W
$1.22 each

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # PPC220W-2CT-ND
RES 220 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5%
$0.60 each

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CLM
lithium backup battery ??
100mfd electrolytics ?
inductors??

HDM

220 mfd @ 160vdc cap digikey part # 493-1393-ND $1.53

VDM
look at board version
8 each
http://www.micro-ohm.com/ Part# FRN1/4 - 1 ohm 5% tolerance

vertical squeeze mod
3x 56kohm metal film 1% 1/4 watt from Digikey.com, Part# 56.2KXB.

Barco guy with respect to the Ohmite resistors for your HVPS the 560 kohm is the speced value but some have found that they are getting a weird thing happening when you try to turn on only one tube at a time the other tubes my also have a grid or image visable as well but of lesser intensity. I would order a secon set of resistor with the values closer to the ones actually read after you take them out. if you have the same problem then try switching to the higher value resistors . I plan on getting 680 kohm ones since my old one read closer to 700 kohms.

This is not a proven fix yet so if you try it let us know the results. I am waiting for my parts to come this week and plan to try it as soon as possible.

Athanasios

Nashou. This bothers me little. Use correct values for those resistors. Example those 560 ohms are 560Kilo ohms :) Just that peoples dont order wrong components.
Same here, i´m waiting also those resistors..

Thanks Jarmo, i edited my post. My new values should be in today or tommorow.

Athanasios

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # PPC220W-2CT-ND
RES 220 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5%
$0.60 each



Use Ohmite OY221KE for R5 and R46 - DO NOT use metal Film resistors in the HVPS.

For the Convergence and Vertical boards, there is some doubt if the listed parts are correct or not;
14 each for Vertical Board (6x2 + 2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

24 each for Convergence Board (12x2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

48 each for Convergence Board
DIGIKEY Part # PPC1.5BCT-ND
RES 1.5 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.51 each

See this thread http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2769&start=0 over at Curt Palmes forums for more details on the mods you are looking at doing - read it ALL before doing anything!

I've put the convergence and vertical board mods on hold until I can clarify whether the listed resistors above are the correct ones to install
Paul

Thanks for the input. But I already order all of those parts. Looks like I will just have to wait to do those changes.

Barco guy with respect to the Ohmite resistors for your HVPS the 560 kohm is the speced value but some have found that they are getting a weird thing happening when you try to turn on only one tube at a time the other tubes my also have a grid or image visable as well but of lesser intensity. I would order a secon set of resistor with the values closer to the ones actually read after you take them out. if you have the same problem then try switching to the higher value resistors . I plan on getting 680 kohm ones since my old one read closer to 700 kohms.

This is not a proven fix yet so if you try it let us know the results. I am waiting for my parts to come this week and plan to try it as soon as possible.

Athanasios


I got some 680kohm as well thanks for the input!

Does anyone have a source for a new CLM battery mine is at 3.01v but Its a 13 year old battery so why not change it.

Tim in Phoenix has them.

Thanks so looking at my neckboards I have 50-2039-01P ISS. I am looking for the burn marks but I don't see any. Does anyone have a good example of what a burnt one looks like? If anything I see a tiny hair line crack. I will have to get out the microscope to see. I also looked for burns on the inductors but I don't see any. The chassis has 3k on 30k stby
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05821.JPG
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05822.JPG

Should I upgrade my CLM software version? I have 3.0

Thanks so looking at my neckboards I have 50-2039-01P ISS. I am looking for the burn marks but I don't see any. Does anyone have a good example of what a burnt one looks like? If anything I see a tiny hair line crack. I will have to get out the microscope to see. I also looked for burns on the inductors but I don't see any. The chassis has 3k on 30k stby
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05821.JPG
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05822.JPG

Those look good, I would just reflow the solder on them. I also just changed out the U4 opamp MC3402 with a lower noise TLE2072, I used the same series on the Focus board as well the texas instuments TLE2074. A little less noisy and a few other improvments over the motorola chips.

Athanasios

Does anyone have the gerber files for Sly's Gamma circuit?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=7738&d=1046938941

Athanasios

I posted this with its own thread but I wanted it to be in a place where everyone can find it easier....

Hi Guys, I found a new way that increases the odds of getting the C-element out with less or no damage to the Bellow.

I first said you take off the back LC housing brace but I was wrong, you need to slide it back to give you more
working room to get of the Bellow from the back of the housing. First you need to remover the
pins that are used for Schliemfluge adjustments(Also keep the C-element ring in place till we get
the Bellow off the back)


Screw in to the pin an allen or other screw that fits the threads And Pry it out,

Prying out screw and pin

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal5.jpg


Pin Removed

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal6.jpg


Next remove any screws that hold front housing to back and dont loose the Springs.

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal8.jpg

So after you remove the screws and the top and bottom pivot plates you can move the
housing back to gibe more room to the bellow screws and for a razor or flat screw driver to help
pry it off after the metal gasket is off.

Lc outer Housing slid back to give more room

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal10.jpg

More room on top too !!!

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal11.jpg

Now more room for allen key !!! Woo Hooo!

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal12.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal15.jpg

Remove all allen screws, then pry off metal gasket.

Gasket removal

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal16.jpg

Now slide gasket out of way to front of housing

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal17.jpg

Now carefully remove Bellow from back of face plate with blade to start then finger
or you can use the blade all the way around if its on there good!!

Separating Bellow from face plate

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal18.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal19.jpg

Front of LC housing removed from face plate

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal20.jpg

Now take off gasket

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal21.jpg

Next remove C-Element retaining ring.

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal23.jpg

Now fold over the bellow onto the C-element and push the whole thing trough the
Housing hole, do it carefully, but it should be ok and not rip.

Folding Bellow

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal24.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal25.jpg

C-element still attached to bellow

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal26.jpg

Now you can much more easily get a blade to the bellow and
C-Element to separate them.

Carefully sliding blade between Bellow and C-element

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal27.jpg

C-Element removed and no bellow damage !!!!!!

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/C-Element%20Easier%20Removal28.jpg

i hope this procedure is easier than trying to take the C-element out while the metal housing
is still in place. I think it is.

And a down loadable PDF from My .mac site

Marquee Stuff (http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/FileSharing9.html)

Athanasios

Hi All -- I just wanted to jump in on the C Element technique posted here. I used it to install a Red C Element last month and it worked well for me.

There was some debate on using RTV to reinstall the new C Element. I applied a very fine layer of RTV mostly because I didn't want the thing leaking once I got in up on the ceiling.

BTW geocities is going to go away. A lot of the images are posted there and will need to be moved.

here is the eagle files for the gamma circuit

I tiled 4 together so I would get the min board size then cut them up.