Originally posted by vlapietra
I've got an HLN437W with and I've got my HD cable box hooked up via DVI.
Is there any on screen display (or any way at all) for me to find out what the original format of the video signal coming in is (480p 720p 1080i)?
Thanks.
Does you're cable box show what the available display resolutions are?

My cable box, SA4200HD can be selected to show all the available res. that the tv will handle. I don't think the Sammy has the ability to display this on its own.

'pilot

Depends on your cable box. If you are using the Pace box, you can put the pace box into bypass mode. In bypass mode it just passes the incoming signal through without up or sideconversion. Then you press the 'display' button on the HLN remote and it will tell you what the incoming signal is. (If it was 480p, you would know it and you would be asking a different question.) :)

I don't know about the other hd/dvi cable boxes. You might want to post which one you have if it isn't the Pace box and somebody else might help you, or try the appropriate forum, since this isn't exactly an HLN issue or question. (Other than the part about pressing the 'display' button.)

-David

I have updated this master DLP RPTV document. It includes information on all DLP RPTV models, including Samsung HLN and HLP models. It also has preliminary information on the new Samsung HLN-1 series models, that have just started shipping.

http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html

Does the new W1's also replace the 5065 models or is Samsung still shipping those. My 5065 is being delivered on the 25th and was wondering my chances of getting a W1 instead.

We don't know the full extent of the HLN-1 models yet. I am trying to find that out. My guess is that they will have only one 50" HLN-1 model.

Originally posted by extrapilot
Does you're cable box show what the available display resolutions are?

My cable box, SA4200HD can be selected to show all the available res. that the TV will handle. I don't think the Sammy has the ability to display this on its own.

'pilot

The cable box is a Pioneer 3510HD. When connected via component it will allow me to choose what signals it will use, but not when connected via DVI.
But in either case, if I set the cable box to send across both 720p and 1080i I don't know which signal it is actually sending during a particular broadcast.

So I was wondering if there was any way to find out from the television.

Like I said above, just push the display button on the sammy remote.

I apologize if this is a little off thread, but this is where I have found most of the most knowledgeable Sammy HLN people are.
I have been looking for an ISF Calibrationist in the Chicago Area for the last month. I have found one, but when I asked for his experience with Sammy rear projection DLP's his response was as follows:

"I honestly haven't worked with that model. However, all sets really follow a standard when it comes to the adjustment procedures. The only real difference is their terminology. This has been the consensus through all the training classes I've attended as well as my own experience. I'm confident that your set will be simple enough as all others I've seen."

Any thoughts? This is the only calibrationist that has responded to my inquiries, so it appears I'm running out of options, but it's a no brainer, no calibration is better than a bad calibration.

Originally posted by VinceP
Any thoughts? This is the only calibrationist that has responded to my inquiries, so it appears I'm running out of options, but it's a no brainer, no calibration is better than a bad calibration.
Send a PM to SethS. Seth trains ISF calibrators. I don't like the answer you got, but I have no first hand knowledge.

Originally posted by Icarus
Like I said above, just push the display button on the sammy remote.

Interesting. With my firmware V309, pushing the "display" button does *not* reveal the incomming resolution on S-video, Component or DVI. Was this something that was changed in the course of production?

With the dvi input active, what does it display when you press the display button? Also I never said that this worked on component or s-video.

-David

Ok all you Samsung Owners a quick question...I have the HLN5065W, I have a regular Comcast Cable analog connection, comcast cable modem, and am aspiring to put together a HTPC. So my question is what are my options for HDTV...is my best bet getting an HDTV Tuner from Comcast, my own HDTV, or make the switch to Satellite? I live in the DC/MD/VA Metro area...Hyattsville, MD. I was looking at the Fusion3 Pro that recently came out and it looks very promising for OTA HDTV and has some other decent features which my HTPC could make a good use of, but I'd like some feedback from some of you sammy owners on what your doing and what you recommend...thanx everyone.

The tuner cards for HTPC's are limited to OTA only. So unless you want to limit yourself to OTA channels only, you want either cable or satellite. If you do consider switching to a satellite, DirecTV is your best option, although if you are an HD junkie then VOOM may be worth a look.

Originally posted by Icarus
With the dvi input active, what does it display when you press the display button? Also I never said that this worked on component or s-video.

-David

On DVI it always seems to display 1280x720, the native resolution of the screen, no matter what the source.
On s-video or component I think it just displays the current aspect mode (normal, wide, zoom etc)

Originally posted by vlapietra
On DVI it always seems to display 1280x720, the native resolution of the screen, no matter what the source.
On s-video or component I think it just displays the current aspect mode (normal, wide, zoom etc)

Not on mine (V309). When viewing DVI, and I push the Display button, I just get the "Mode: Dynamic", etc., listing of three lines of stuff...if I was at home I'd check and be a little more precise. But the screen resolution or incomming signal specs are not listed.

Just found out that I'll be moving to a new apartment in August which is a good opportunity to sell my current 40XBR800 and get the Sammy DLP I always wanted. IS there any updated info on availability of the new HLP series? Will it be out this summer? The updated HLN-W1 sounds like an improvement but I'd hate to pick one up only to have significant upgrades available shortly after.

Originally posted by TH3_FRB
IS there any updated info on availability of the new HLP series? Will it be out this summer? The updated HLN-W1 sounds like an improvement but I'd hate to pick one up only to have significant upgrades available shortly after.
If you ask your question in July there should be new information available. Check out this link for the current guesses.

DLP RPTV Update (http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html)

Is anyone familiar with this model number......

HLN617Wx/XAA

I had to return my HLN617W manufactured Jan 2004 as it was having a problem processing 480i signals.

Circuit City gave me a new set, but this one was manufactured in Dec 2003, but it had the above model number.

I have never seen that model number before. Any ideas?


TIA


Mike

But I'm anxious...and impatient :)

That link says May 04 for the HLP4674W – 46” Tantus which is probably what I'm looking for. Where does that date come from...WAG, educated guess, from Sammy reps?

Originally posted by TH3_FRB
But I'm anxious...and impatient :)

That link says May 04 for the HLP4674W ? 46? Tantus which is probably what I'm looking for. Where does that date come from...WAG, educated guess, from Sammy reps?
Probably from Samsung contacts at CES. If you want the Tantus then you should think about getting it with the seven element color wheel.

Originally posted by liltalkm


I had to return my HLN617W manufactured Jan 2004 as it was having a problem processing 480i signals.
....

Mike

What exact problem did you have??

Here is a link to the thread I started about my 480i problem.

There is a picture in the link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=370158

Mike

Originally posted by liltalkm
Is anyone familiar with this model number......

HLN617Wx/XAA

I had to return my HLN617W manufactured Jan 2004 as it was having a problem processing 480i signals.

Circuit City gave me a new set, but this one was manufactured in Dec 2003, but it had the above model number.

I have never seen that model number before. Any ideas?


TIA


Mike

I think I saw something like it on my 507 (delivered 1/21). I'll check the manufacture date and actual model number when I get home tonight.

-Chris

Originally posted by liltalkm
Is anyone familiar with this model number......

HLN617Wx/XAA

I had to return my HLN617W manufactured Jan 2004 as it was having a problem processing 480i signals.

Circuit City gave me a new set, but this one was manufactured in Dec 2003, but it had the above model number.

I have never seen that model number before. Any ideas?


TIA


Mike


I have the 43 in. set, model number HLN437WX/XAA, built in August 2003.
Maybe the X/XAA is just the longer version that we don't see and just not mentioned here. This is right off the set on the right side, as you face it. My sales slip says just that it is a HLN437W.

'pilot

Originally posted by extrapilot
I have the 43 in. set, model number HLN437WX/XAA, built in August 2003.
Maybe the X/XAA is just the longer version that we don't see and just not mentioned here. This is right off the set on the right side, as you face it. My sales slip says just that it is a HLN437W.


Same here. My 50" set says HLN507WX/XAA on the side. On the label on the back it says
Model No: HLN507W

then right underneath it says
SVC Model: HLN507WX/XAA.

Manufacture date is November 2003.

-Chris

Originally posted by vlapietra
On DVI it always seems to display 1280x720, the native resolution of the screen, no matter what the source.
On s-video or component I think it just displays the current aspect mode (normal, wide, zoom etc)

I meant to check this at home last night, but now I'm traveling, so I can't check it. I can have my pace box output 720p or 1080i, and I'm almost certain that the display text changes for them. Maybe somebody else can check it, or you can send me a reminder PM on Sunday to check it.

RogRacer: You need to a little homework and get your settings adjusted to not use dynamic mode. Unless that's really your preference, and in that case, that's fine. Most people use custom/warm1 and adjust the contrast/shapness using VE or AVIA.

-David

I am looking at a Samsung TS160 HDTV receiver that can be used for OTA HD & Directv HD.

Any thoughts as to this is the one for HDTV or are there other better choices?

And does the HDTV dish manufacturer matter or are they all equal?

Thanks

Originally posted by joenash
I am looking at a Samsung TS160 HDTV receiver that can be used for OTA HD & Directv HD.

Any thoughts as to this is the one for HDTV or are there other better choices?

And does the HDTV dish manufacturer matter or are they all equal?

Thanks

Dish size might matter. I saw a larger dish available for D*and was advertised for commercial and/or high end home use. I think if I was going with D*, I would consider this one over the standard since D* has to home in on three satellites for HD use. Also, I think the Samsung TS 160 model is a good one, as read here.

'pilot

For one thing, larger dishes will help reduce rain-fade on digital signals.

I have a Sasmung SIR-TS160 and it works well.

Originally posted by 4HiMarks
Same here. My 50" set says HLN507WX/XAA on the side. On the label on the back it says
Model No: HLN507W

then right underneath it says
SVC Model: HLN507WX/XAA.

Manufacture date is November 2003.

-Chris

mine has : HLN5065W
and under this : HLN5065WX/XAA
manufacture date : January 2004

Maybe samsung put a few different parts for testing, and they use it to identify what is in the set when people call in?

Question for the WX/XAA owners.

Are the inputs supporting full range 480-1080 like the W1 models ?

Without this, this is pretty much a show stopper for me.

Originally posted by ddilts399
Question for the WX/XAA owners.

Are the inputs supporting full range 480-1080 like the W1 models ?

Without this, this is pretty much a show stopper for me.

Could you clarify a little? Which inputs are you talking about? I don't think composite inputs even can support anything other than 480.

-Chris

The new HLN-W1 models support the full range of 480i/p, 720p, 1080i inputs on all COMPONENT ports. See:

http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html#_Samsung_HLN_Series

The HLN series component inputs don't. Component 1 supports 480i/p. Component 2 and 3 support 480p, 720p, 1080i. See:

http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html#_Toc62901898

Thanks for the clarification. So far the only W1 found is the 50" correct ?

Based on another thread , there might not even be any 61 W1's released if the 03' chasis do not get used up before the HLP production date starts.

Originally posted by ddilts399
Thanks for the clarification. So far the only W1 found is the 50" correct ?
I believe someone reported receiving a HLN567W1.

Originally posted by arungupta
The new HLN-W1 models support the full range of 480i/p, 720p, 1080i inputs on all COMPONENT ports.
The HLN series component inputs don't. Component 1 supports 480i/p. Component 2 and 3 support 480i/p, 720p, 1080i.
I'm sure this is just a typo, but in the interest of accuracy, components 2&3 do not support 480i on an HLN (non-W1).

Originally posted by flex727
I'm sure this is just a typo, but in the interest of accuracy, components 2&3 do not support 480i on an HLN (non-W1).
Thanks for the catch. I corrected it.

I have a question that may not be appropriate for this thread, but...

I have a Sammy DLP and use the TV sound system. When I get the Motorola 6208 HD-DVR (hopefully in April) and connect the DVI cable, I know I need to connect the audio cables to the TV PC Audio In. I was planning to get a switch for DVI for a new DVI DVD Player.

Does this mean that I can't use a DVI switch without getting some sort of audio switch as well? Otherwise, how would I get the sound from the DVD, now switched to the DVI input, into the TV sound system?

I'd appreciate any help on this.

Thanks,

Rich N.

Rich,

I think you are pretty much right with your guess that you will have to buy some sort of audio switcher as well. I might be wrong, but my guess is that your particular application is somewhat of a minority when it comes to these tvs, unfortunately. Most of us that are willing to make the concession of using a DVI switch so as to connect as many DVI input devices as possible to this high quality digital video input aren't running the associated audio through the tiny tv speakers. It still amazes me that people spend this kind of cash for video greatness and then run the audio through the equivalent of Radio Shack speakers... but that's not helpful to you. I know that I currently have a 4 input, 1 output S-Video/Composite Video/Stereo RCA Audio switcher that I bought from Radio Shack awhile ago. I only use it for running multiple audio sources into my multizone receiver so I can't speak for it's video switching abilities... but the audio seems decent enough over the in-wall, ceiling and patio speakers around the house. If you need a model number let me know and I can search around on the Rat Shack website to find you the info.

Good luck,
Jeff

To really do justice to a high definition setup, I suggest a surround sound setup. It doesn't have to be expensive unless you are an audiophile. And make sure your receiver can take multiple inputs and act as an audio switch.

If you don't want a surround sound setup, then you need to get an audio switch.

Jeff, Arun, thanks for your responses. Since I live in an apartment I'm a little hesitant on getting too much audio stuff. I don't want to bother the neighbors. But at least I now know some of my options.

I'll look for a 2-1 audio switch, or just use DVI for one thing. If it helps the TV picture so I don't need to split the cable to use the "antenna" input for SD viewing then I may just keep DVI on the STB. Of course, I know it helps DVDs a lot too. Decisions....

That's why this forum is so great.

Thanks again

Rich N.

Rich,

No problem. Are you just "planning ahead" in regards to having two DVI input devices, or do you already own a DVI equipped DVD player? Also, does that PVR do HD recording? I guess right now what most of us do is to use the DVI for whichever input we want the best quality from and use Component for the next best, etc... Personally since I use the TS160 STB and it has a known black crush issue with the DVI output, I use the component out for that box, leaving my DVI input free for my as-yet-unpurchased DVI DVD player. From the audio side of things, I'm lucky enough to have a dedicated theater room with a B&K AVR507 receiver to run all my audio through. I can understand your concerns about neighbors in an apartment though.

Good luck in finding a solution that works for you.

Regs,
Jeff

Rich N.

I believe you are missing a good part of movies if you do not have the surround sound. I got surroung sound about a year ago. The difference is dramatic.

I liked it so much I convinced my son to get a system (he lives in an apartment).

I recommended a Cambridge Soundworks system for him. (www.cambridgesoundworks.com)

There have a number of choices at different price points, are not that large & deliver very good sound for the price & size.

Good luck.

Joe

ok i feel dumb. i know i am missing something silly, (like where to plug audio cables).....i just got my dvi cable for samsung hln4365w DLP tv. running from DVI port on moto 6200 to tv's DVI port. nice picture, but where is my sound?

DVI doesn't carry audio. Did you connect the audio input into where it says PC/DVI audio?

What does the "movie mode" option do on the video screen? I haven't seen it make any kind of difference??

Originally posted by arungupta
DVI doesn't carry audio. Did you connect the audio input into where it says PC/DVI audio?

no, i can hardly see back there, so i am going to check that now...thanks.

ok, my lazy ass is all set. thanks arun. i didnt know pc audio went with DVI.

Jeff:

This is all in preparation. I hope to get the 6208 in April, so no problem immediately, I'll just use the DVI port for that.

I have been planning to get a DVI DVD because of all the wonderful things I've heard about DVI with a Sammy DLP.

However, I just spoke with my wife, who said, "NO" to a home theater (we are short of space in our apartment and she didn't want the speakers and cables) so I probably will see how much improvement I get with DVI with the Moto and then make a decision about the DVI DVD.

She was amenable to the DVI and audio switches solution. Yes, you are lucky to have that kind of system.

Joe: I made your point about the value of a sound system, but,....At least I'll get really beautiful HD PQ.

Thanks to all of you for your input and suggestions. Who knows what the future may bring? Maybe even Jeopardy! in HD.

Thanks again,

Rich N.

Rich

Keep something in mind about surround sound. Because you are surrounded by the sound, due to the placement of the speakers around you, you will most likely keep your volume lower than if you are only using the front speakers. You will find that the same volume you used with regular stereo with surround sound would be very uncomfortable to you in surround. The speakers are pointing to the center of the viewing area not to the outside, as can be argued with regular stereo.
Also keep in mind, especially now days, sound is 50 percent of the movie experience.
Don't take my word for it go to a video-audio store with a decent hometheatre surround displayand listen for yourself. Take along DVD of your wife's favorite movie that you are familiar with and take the wife, too. I think you will find me right about the volume, so don't worry about your neighbors, and your wife will sell herself.
And because of the quality you get for very reasonable prices now days you can get something perfect for an apartment for just a few hundred bucks. You won't be sorry. And because of advancements in audio/ speaker technology you don't have to get huge speakers. Look at some of the Boze systems, they are very unobtrusive.
Another thought, center peaker make a huge difference with dialogue in movies and you will find that really will have an effect on how loud of volume you use, because of the fight between effect sounds and dialogue from the regular speakers.

Excellent post, VinceP.

Originally posted by arungupta
Excellent post, VinceP.

Ditto. And if the wife still objects because of cables, there are some "flat wire" alternatives that you can stick to the wall, spackle and paint, and you can't tell they're there.

But this discussion really belongs in the Home Theater Audio forum.
-Chris

Not to belabor the point but check out Cambridge Soundsworks.

They have a special for their good system at $240 (usually 429) & a Sony surround receiver for $158 if you need it.

This is a cube system. Take a look at this type of system & see how small it is.

This may sound like a broken record. But go hear the difference!

I have a question for everyone. Has anyone ever moved their HLN set over a long distance, using one of the professional van line moving companies? My set was delivered to me by the store with no box or packing materials so it would be up to me or a moving company to pack it, and I am curious how delicate these sets are and how they fare if they have to travel over hundreds of miles of highway on a long distance move, and whether winter weather could affect them if they sat in the truck for several days.

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH A SAMSUNG HNL507W1 THAT I RECEIVED FROM SAMSUNG AS A REPACEMENT. THIS ONE HAS A PROBLEM WITH ALL 480i INPUTS. WHITE FLASHING BARS ABOUT AN INCH ACROSS. IT HAPPENS WITH SAT. RECEIVER , DVD IN 480i , VCR.

Originally posted by chuft
I have a question for everyone. Has anyone ever moved their HLN set over a long distance, using one of the professional van line moving companies? My set was delivered to me by the store with no box or packing materials so it would be up to me or a moving company to pack it, and I am curious how delicate these sets are and how they fare if they have to travel over hundreds of miles of highway on a long distance move, and whether winter weather could affect them if they sat in the truck for several days.

Can you say bubble wrap, and allot of it. Shielding against vibration is obviously important.
I think the biggest fear about the cold weather is on plastic parts, they can break much easier. I don't think that there would be a concern about any of the electronic parts. And, once inside the warm house, let it take time to warm up before plugging it in and tuning it on. The lenses can take on condensation.

'pilot

I just found out the skew # on the set I have on hold is HLN507W
I asked the store "tweeter" about the W-1 model and they read me an E-mail that was from thier buyer that said there were "NO" differences between the two, and that it was not due in till mid. march, but I could replace my HLN507W with the W-1 if I wanted within 2 months of purchase.
He also told me when I asked about the NON Tantus 50" that this set still had everything the Tantus does, he said it went by 4 digit and 3 digit skews, the lower end unit having a 4 digit skew?

Originally posted by Spinal Tap
I asked the store "tweeter" about the W-1 model and they read me an E-mail that was from thier buyer that said there were "NO" differences between the two, and that it was not due in till mid. march, but I could replace my HLN507W with the W-1 if I wanted within 2 months of purchase.

The Tweeter buyer in incorrect about differences. Some of those differences have been photographed and posted in a thread about the "W1" version. He may be right about availability.


He also told me when I asked about the NON Tantus 50" that this set still had everything the Tantus does, he said it went by 4 digit and 3 digit skews, the lower end unit having a 4 digit skew?
The only thing Tantus means for the current models is that the Tantus HLN467 and HLN567 have the "thin bezel" case. The only difference between the HLNxxxx sets and the HLNxxx sets (not counting Tantus) is that the bezel is a different color.

Starting with the HLP 2004 models there will be a big difference between basic models and Tantus models.

The "W1"'s new features are listed here also.

New Samsung HLN Models (http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html#_New_Samsung_HLN_Model_(Repor ted_2/3)

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH 480i FROM ANY SOURCE ON A NEW HLN507W1
I JUST RECEIVED ON FRIDAY AS A REPLACEMENT FROM SAMSUNG. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS. THERE IS WHITE FLASHING LINE THROUGHOUT THE SCREEN. ALL 480P AND HIGHER THERE IS NO PROBLEM.
THESE TV'S ARE MADE POORLY

I have updated the Samsung HLN guide to also cover the new HLN-W1 series. I shall keep updating the HLN-W1 info as it becomes available.

http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html

Hey arungupta, your info. has been very helpful. Thank you.
I just brought home my new HLN507W and I could not believe how easy it was to hook up, took me about 15 minuites out of the box and I was watching Basketball. I did not have to program the remote , it picked up on the cable box automaticlly?I have been reading some of your guide info and all seems to be as layed out. I have alot of reading to do, that damn manual is like a book!
One observation I noticed while picking my unit up today is that while mine did not say Tantus on it, there was a 61" that did? I also confirmed thier are no diffrences in Tantus and Non Tantus like you said except for the Bezel and Colors.
I was informed the 46 and 56 were the only Tantus models by one of the guides posted in AVS. So that might need an update.
An way thanks for your time , I will be spending much time here for when I buy my Home theater equipment next month. I dont even own a dvd yet.LOL

I NEED HELP WITH A PROBLEM I AM HAVING WITH MY HLN507W1. PLEASE CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT THE WHITE FLASHING LINES ARE IN 480i
MODE CAN BE. I HAVE TRIED ALL MY DIFFERENT 480i DEVICES AND IT HAPPENS WITH EVERY ONE BUT, ONLY IN 480i. ALL OTHER BEING 480P AND UP ARE FINE.

GOLFERADAM12, I have never heard of such a problem. It may just be that you have a defective set.

GOLFERADAM12,

What connection are you using? Have you tried all three component inputs? The old HLN/HLM sets only allowed 480i through component 1. Your "W1" set should allow 480i through all three component inputs.

What is the source of your 480i input -- DVD or STB?

As Arun said, you probably have a defective set but it would be interesting to know more about your setup.

arungupta, Thank you for getting back to me with this. It seem that these sets have allot of issues. here is another one. moisture or something
between the screen that goes away when the set warms up.

htwaits, it happens in all three component terminals as well as the two s-video and all composite video terminals. It happens with DVD, SAT, VCR.
I hope it is not another defective one. It almost makes me wish I went with a different brand.

Originally posted by GOLFERADAM12
htwaits, it happens in all three component terminals as well as the two s-video and all composite video terminals. It happens with DVD, SAT, VCR.
I hope it is not another defective one. It almost makes me wish I went with a different brand.
Maybe it's just the new input card. That should be an easy repair. I assume it's looking OK with 720p or 1080i from your SAT. How does it look if you put your DVD player into progressive mode and output 480p to any of the component inputs?

It looks good on 480p in any component input.

Originally posted by GOLFERADAM12
It looks good on 480p in any component input.
I predict, barring a total screwup, that all it takes in a new input card. Of course, those cards are so new there is little chance they have them in stock.

Let us know what happens.

I forgot to mention one thing. the first half hour or so of operation everything looks good. It is after that warm up period that my problem
shows up. I will be talking with Samsung on Monday and I am going to demand that this is taking care of this week.

THE PICTURE ON THIS SET OVERALL IS NOT AS GOOD AS THE LAST UNIT I HAD. I HAD E-MAILED SAMSUNG ON WHAT IMPROVEMENTS WHERE MADE ON THE W1. THEY RESPONDED BY TELLING ME EVERYTHING THAT WAS MENTIONED IN EARLIER THREADS, BUT NOTHING ABOUT A NEW LENS. I AM HOPING WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS I HAVE HAD, THEY WILL GIVE ME A REFUND SO I CAN BUY A DIFFERENT BRAND. THEY DEFINITELY HAVE A
QUALITY CONTROL PROBLEM.

Originally posted by Icarus
I meant to check this at home last night, but now I'm traveling, so I can't check it. I can have my pace box output 720p or 1080i, and I'm almost certain that the display text changes for them. Maybe somebody else can check it, or you can send me a reminder PM on Sunday to check it.

-David

When my cable box is set to output dvi/720p, pressing the display button on the Sammy remote reads several lines. The first line is:

DVI 1280 x 720 60Hz

When the cable box is set to output dvi/1080i, it reads:

DVI 1920 x 1080 60Hz

That's why I keep saying you can press the display button on the remote with DVI input to see what res you are watching. Doesn't everybody's do that?

-David

Yes, My sony box will only go to 720p in dvi. when i switch to component
I can go to 1080i. With the new w1 models you get this info from
any input.

Icarus,

I never noticed before, but yes, mine does that too, though I have my HTPC connected to the DVI. The resolutions are not shown on the component inputs, though...

I just recently purchased the 467W and have HD Cable hooked up via DVI. As expected, the Hi-Def looks incredible. However, I'm not totally happy with the aspect ratio options on the DVI input for standard TV.

I'm using the TV wide mode, but I think it stretches things out a little too much vs. some of the other modes available on the component inputs. I would prefer to watch 4:3 source with bars on the sides, but normal mode on the DVI input puts black bars on all four sides.

Should I just use the component inputs if I need the other aspect choices? Is there a better alternative? Should I be seeing bars on all four sides on "normal" aspect ration via DVI?

GlendaleHDTV

It depends on your cable box. If it is the Motorola DCT 6200 you can change the aspect on you cable box.

With the box turned off hit the menu button.

I'm doing this from memory now mind you.

1st menu item set to 16X9
2nd menu item select 720p
3rd menu item (and this is the one that will control how SD channels will show up) I believe set this to disabled. If that one is not correct try one of the other settings. My 6200 was replaced this weekend and I had to play with it because I was not sure how I had it previously set on the old box.

VinceP

Vince,

Thanks for the reply. I actually have the Motorola 5100 box and I have played with the settings for 4:3 default (I believe they are 480p, 480i or off). If you have it set at 480i or off, then 4:3 format shows up with just the black bars on the side, but the picture quality appeared worse, and you cannot change the aspect ratio (on the DVI input).

It just seems to me that when I viewed standard definition source on the TV at the store, one of the stretch modes (it may have been panoramic) looked pretty good on 4:3 content. I may try one of the component inputs tonight and see how that works.

Samsung is going to exchange the unit sight unseen. I hope the next one is a good set. I love the picture quality of these TVs, I guess I just got a couple of defective ones.

I'm sure somewhere in the last 78 pages this issue has been addressed; but at this point we need an index. I have a sammy 43HLN and have been watching it for awhile; mostly just TV and everything is fine. Hooked up a cheap sony DVD player to it. Output progressive mode into the component part of the Sammy.

I set the DVD output to wide; however the DVD screensaver still shows up in a 4:3 aspect ratio. Next I put in Pirates of the Carib DVD and the while the picture looks great, it shows in a widescreen mode but there are black bars top and bottom and on the sides. The picture only fills up two thirds of the screen.

I can go into the Sammy menu and stretch the picture to fill the screen widthwise- but it looks stretched. What gives here?

Thanks

Originally posted by jnpremm
I'm sure somewhere in the last 78 pages this issue has been addressed; but at this point we need an index. I have a sammy 43HLN and have been watching it for awhile; mostly just TV and everything is fine. Hooked up a cheap sony DVD player to it. Output progressive mode into the component part of the Sammy.

I set the DVD output to wide; however the DVD screensaver still shows up in a 4:3 aspect ratio. Next I put in Pirates of the Carib DVD and the while the picture looks great, it shows in a widescreen mode but there are black bars top and bottom and on the sides. The picture only fills up two thirds of the screen.

I can go into the Sammy menu and stretch the picture to fill the screen widthwise- but it looks stretched. What gives here?

Thanks

Your DVD player should have a setting for what type of TV it is hooked up to.
Make sure that is set to 16:9 instead of 4:3

Originally posted by jnpremm
Next I put in Pirates of the Carib DVD and the while the picture looks great, it shows in a widescreen mode but there are black bars top and bottom and on the sides. The picture only fills up two thirds of the screen.

For more than you ever wanted to know about black bars click on the link at the bottom of my message.

In addition to setting your DVD player to output to a 16x9 TV you might want to try turning off "progressive mode". If you do that you have to be connected to component 1 on your TV. Your TV will probably do a better job of converting 480i to 480p than your DVD player.

I have about 45 days left on my manufacturers warranty for HLN4365. I would like to buy extended warranty. Any recommendations on the companies - places that sell them ?

Thanks.

I'm the one asking about audio switches instead of a HTIB. You have convinced me that I need a small HT. I've been looking at HTIB systems without a DVD. One of them has DD5.1 and Pro-logic but not DTS. What happens if I watch a DVD or TV with DTS going through a HT that doesn't support it? Will I get sound at all? Arent' most HD broadcasts also in 5.1 (I watch more TV than DVDs right now).

Thanks,

Rich N.

Hey HT, I have a question about component and screen size /resolution?
I am using Component#3 from the HD box to the DLP, and I had to play with the box and the aspect quite a bit to figure out which applications to use , because I wanted the best picture possible of course. I do not understand why I am using #3 I was under the impression that 3 was the 1080 which was a better picture. The HD box I received the clearest picture with the 4:3, ? I thought 16x9 was the better aspect?
You can point me to a link if you know where it is, but I have spent hours and read through pages upon pages, in here and cant seem to find The answers to my questions? I did want to say DAMN, that HD Discovery channel is sweet! WOW

Originally posted by Spinal Tap
Hey HT, I have a question about component and screen size /resolution?

You will probably need to get help from more than me. I don't have a HD STB.

First, you need to provide the brand and model of your STB and tell us which service you are connected to.

Second, you must set your STB to output to a 16x9 display.

Third, you need to choose the output resolution that you want. Here is where others may be able to give you better advice than I can.

If you can't use the DVI input on your TV then component 2 & 3 are your choices for HD programs. If my assumption is right and you have a Samsung DLP then those two inputs will accept 480p, 1080i, and 720p. Your TV converts everything to 720p so I would start by having the STB output 720p. For all HD programs you want your TV's Aspect Mode set to "Wide" or "Wide (TV)"

For standard definition programs it gets more complicated. You might find that coax, S-Vhs, or composite give you better PQ. Samsung owners have experimented with all three.

Good luck.

Thanks, I am actually using Component 3, and the DLP is HLN507W
The HD box is the PACE 550P given to me by Brighthouse Cable.

Samsung cuts HLN DLP prices by $500+
http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/news/b2c_press_detail.jsp?eUser=&oid=68961

http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html
http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html#_Samsung_HLN_Series

Originally posted by arungupta
[B]Samsung cuts HLN DLP prices by $500+


Figures. I just got my set right before the Super Bowl. I suppose they're trying to clear out inventory before bringing out the new models.

-Chris

Seems like they have an error -- why would the 4365 be $3199 while the 437 is $3699? Also, there was no mention of the Tantus models.

Someone mentioned that this was just a move to clear out the HLNs, but I read it differently. They seemed to be saying that they are making DLPs more affordable. It would seem odd if they came back in 6 months with their "DLPs" (which at that time would be HLPs) at a HIGHER price. Perhaps we will get the benefit of lower prices from now on - even on the HLPs.

I agree that the 437 price seems to be in error.

If you look at the reduced HLN prices and the comparable HLP base models (HD3) prices, they are now essentially identical.
http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html

So the price cut on HLN brings them in line with the lower prices on the comparable new HLP models.

Note that prices on HLP models that have HD2+ chip+seven segment color wheel are $300 to $500 higher than their corresponding base HD3 models.

XXXXXXXXX has both 50" Samsung DLP's for $[PRICE REMOVED]- 10% = [PRICE REMOVED]+ free shipping.

[Please read the pricing rules!]

Hi,

I thought I should post on this thread since I guess this thread is what everybody looks at for HLN sets. If you guys think I should post elsewhere, let me know and I will delete and repost in RP area.

I finally paid the CDN $350.00 and had my set ISF calibrated. The calibration was done by Michael Chen or better known on AVS as Michael TLV. He came over at around 6:00 PM and was working on my set until about 11:00 PM tweaking and adjusting. So what is the difference in PQ you may ask, well, I do not have the green tint that is usually present on the Samsung sets and the colors are a lot better. Did I see an improvement right a way, absolutely. Was the improvement night and day, no it was not. Was it worth it to spend the money for this calibration, for me, it definitely was.

For you guys who want the numbers, Michael had no problem with me posting the results so an excel sheet is attached for your review (thanks arungupta for this spread sheet). We did the calibration for the component input (components 1) using 480i and 480p signals from my DVD player. We did not use a signal generator to calibrate for 720 p, but from my viewing, the colors are very good for HD channels. Finally, I will not take any responsibility for this results to work for your TV, nor take any responsibility for you guys going into the SM settings of your TV to change things. I assume everybody knows they should write down the original setting before changing any settings in SM menus.

Please be advised that my user settings at the bottom of the sheet are not correct. I am still playing around with those settings for best results.

My TV set: HLN5065
Firmware: 306

Thanks,
Maziar

Awesome, Mazuly!! This spreadsheet will be an excellent resource for all Samsung HLN owners. Thank you very much, and thank you Michael Chen also. :)

Hi Mazuly, on the spreadsheet, your "tweaked" settings for the grayscale control were all the same for every input. Was this "tweaked" setting derived from Michaels calibration of one input and then copied to the others, or is this just some arbitrary set of numbers from someone else's "tweak"?

Basically, I am trying to determine if these numbers were obtained with the use of proper calibration equipment, or guesswork. If you didn't have a video generator to calibrate the 720P, then how did you calibrate it?

Hi,

From my understanding tweaks of DNIe sub menu in SM will effect all inputs and therefore those results are global and can be copied to all inputs. I may be wrong though and someone please correct me if I am wrong. In any case, the reults should be good enough for 480i and 480p.

We used 480i and 480p signals generated using a calibration disk and my DVD player and the measurements were done using Michaels Calibration equipment (I am not sure what equipment he was using, but a color meter was put on the TV screen and and the results were obtained on a Michaels laptop). Moreover we also measured results using different gamma settings and came to conclusion that gamma set to 1 would provide the best gray-scale. Michael has promised to send me the measurements obtained as well.

Finally why would I posed results saying Michael has ISF calibrated my TV if I just copied someone elses results or just did some guess work.

Maybe Michael can comment on this as well.

Thanks,
Maziar

I would have to have someone "pay me", to mess with my PQ. I guess I just dont get it, can the PQ get any better? If it can I would rather not see it.lol

Hi,

SethS email had me thinking regarding all these values and I went into SM to check all the input values again. Now I understand that the DNIe values are not global and are input dependent. Furthermore, the values I posted for 480p (component 1) and 480p/720p/1080i (component 2) were not correct (OFFSET values are different).

The attached file contains values which are in my TV. We used component 1 (480p values) for component 2 since I only paid for calibration of one input (component 1).

Once again, I can not take any responsibility for these values to work on your TV. Also please make sure you take dawn your original values before making any changes.

Thanks,
Maziar

Quick question not worthy of a new thread;

Upon delivery of my 61" Sammy last year I noticed a very small flake of something coveing up a pixel, could only be seen from about 12" away and if you knew where to look. Then it disappeared. Well I found it. It moved 8" southeast on the screen. Where would this " partical" be located? Anyone else ever have a foreign partical blocking a pixel ? It doesn't appear to be behind the anti glare screen, but somewhere else....thanks, Luke

mazuly, would you be able to post your user menu settings as well? I'd like to make sure I'm on the same page after I tweak the service menu.

Thanks!

Hi,

Sure.

I finally finished setting up the user menus today. I used Avia to setup the user menu settings and then I watched some DVDs to setup the final saturation. The final saturation is a little lower from what I found with Avia(mostly down from setting 50 to 38 to 40) since I found the skin tones to be more accurate.


Please find attached final setting for your review and once again no guaranties that it may work for you :)

Thanks,
Maziar

Originally posted by Spinal Tap
I would have to have someone "pay me", to mess with my PQ. I guess I just dont get it, can the PQ get any better? If it can I would rather not see it.lol Spinal

I agree.

Either I am blind to the problems (I have TRIED to see them)
or I ended up with an upgraded board that was perfectly adjusted.
(HLN617)

After my board upgrade, I budgeted the $ to have it professionally calibrated. I even found someone in my area qualified to do it.
Got pricing, then backed out because I don't see how it could be improved.

I guess if we cant see it why pay for it?

Besides, with the new 1080 61" Samsungs in the works, I will have to upgrade again in the next year, so I should save my $ to calibrate that one..



:D :D :D

Thanks Mazuly, things weren't adding up, so I just wanted to check. Congratulations on getting your set calibrated, I know you said Michael did the cal, I just knew that he wouldn't have copied them down the line and said that's probably close enough. You seem to understand it correctly now. I will say however, that copying the values to the other inputs could be worse than guess work, and could end up with quite bad results. I see your intent though, calibrating every input really adds up $.

Guy's, I suppose that whether the picture looks better or not could be subjective, but that's not necessarily what is being advertised. These sets are setup for what looks pleasing to focus groups, the bulk of purchasers perhaps. You obviously thought it looked the best or you wouldn't have bought it. I agree. But movie buffs want it calibrated for the same reason that they bought the widescreen, directors cut of all their favorite movies. They want to recreate the cinematic experience. They use a calibrated display to transfer the movie, and purists choose to play this back on a set that is calibrated to the same industry standard. So, as good as the TV looks, just like a professional monitor, they always need a calibration to keep in spec. Why can't they calibrate it like that at the factory? For the same reason you still have to calibrate a professional monitor that costs many times more.

In fact, the true mark of most professional grade equipment is how much control that you have for calibration, because that is a given.

I understand what your saying Seth, its just that when you have just spent $4000. on a TV/warranty/DVIcable/optical/ect...you didnt want to hear someone say it needs a calibration now...lol
If you know what I mean.
I look at my DLP in 1080 HD and sometimes think I can stick my hand right into the picture, its that clear. I just dont see how any calibration could get it more real and lifelike then that. IMHO But then again I am not that purist.

Originally posted by SethS
I see your intent though, calibrating every input really adds up $.

My HLN4365 (ver 302) set doesn't calibrate inputs separately. Changing RGB gains or off sets changes the corresponding values in all the other inputs as well although the numbers are not identical. I have tried adjusting ANT, COMP1 and COMP2 and I have found that changing one changes the other. How do you calibrate an input separately?

Hi,

The calibration will not change the sharpness of the TV, or the PQ, but it changes the colors that is present in the material. The Color for all color TV sets are based on the gray-scale. That is color TVs will basically color a black and white picture and if the original black and white setting is not correct then the colors will be somewhat skewed. This is what I have had done one my TV. Michael basically change settings in SM menus to correct for color temperature for different shades of black, gray and white. What has resulted is that the colors are now very close to what the director had intended when he/she shot a scene. I must admit that this might not be as critical for some people, but for me it was, and now the picture looks absolutely fantastic. Maybe SethS or Michael (I am surprised he hasn't join in already :)) can give us some more background on TV technology and calibration.

Seths,

Michael and I did have a look at some DVD material and some HD and SD content after calibration of component 1 and decided that using component 1 settings for component 2 was absolutely acceptable. Mind you it really depends on program material and the HD channel it self, but we definitely saw a major improvement specially with the green tint that the picture had before the calibration. As Michale put it, it is always a trade off and I can live with this one :)

Finally Michael has done a fantastic job for me and I personally can recommend him to anybody who is looking for an excellent ISF calibration.

Thanks,
Maziar

The last two posts seem at odds. I am confused as to whether changing the settings on one input affects the others.

Greetings

Maziar, you are doing fine. I'm still working off the headache. :p

I just wish we could have done something about the colour decoder. :(

Regards

Sorry for the headache Michael. I am glad I don't see the rainbows the way you do.

Yes I know. It is interesting that Samsung doesn't offer any adjustments to the color decoders. I wish they would do as well.

In any case the picture looks fantastic and I am really happy I had the calibration done.

Thanks,
Maziar

Maybe I have a problem.

About 3 weeks ago, I saw that my Comcast MOTO 5100 had the firmware upgrade of 7.07 so off I go to Gateway and buy their DVI Cable, go home, hook it up and reset the MOTO box and get ready to be amazed. Samsung 4365W.

Ok I was aware that the colors may look a little washed out, but expected SD to look better than the Component 2 input I was using. Well I messed around with the custom settings and SD and wasn't impressed. I was psyched to see more clarity so I left the DVI as the default. SD still better straight from the wall. I use a Dennon AVR for sound so I didn't need to move my audio.

Last weekend SWMBO asked me to fix it so she could hear the sound without the receiver, so I just swithed the input from DVI back to Component 2, and I really liked everything better on Component 2 than DVI.

I think the depth, clarity and PQ are all better on the component inputs from the Comcast Moto 5100 than the DVI.

Suggestions?

My experience with DVI is that its advantages are meaningful only for fairly clean signal (SD or HD). Most SD programs on cable or satellite are generally so heavily compressed that any DVI benefits are lost. On good quality SD DVD's, its advantages are very obvious.

Yeah, I always recommend using the DVI for the DVD player too.

Gary and searay, heres the deal. When we calibrate, we always start with the lowest grade signal and then work our way up to DVI. The biggest differences will be going from SD to HD inputs. I have calibrated the DVI and then the Comp2, while the DVI still stayed good. None the less, for full SD/HD cals, and in most cases, any cal, you always follow the video food chain. The lower grade signals go through a lot more processing than higher res signals. So if you start with the antenna input, and then cal each input in the proper order until the DVI, you can back track and see that they all stayed place.

Originally posted by SethS
When we calibrate, we always start with the lowest grade signal and then work our way up to DVI. The biggest differences will be going from SD to HD inputs. I have calibrated the DVI and then the Comp2, while the DVI still stayed good. None the less, for full SD/HD cals, and in most cases, any cal, you always follow the video food chain. The lower grade signals go through a lot more processing than higher res signals. So if you start with the antenna input, and then cal each input in the proper order until the DVI, you can back track and see that they all stayed place.

I'm missing something here. In the HLN's the only DVI adjustments are a subset of the adjustments for the other inputs: gain, offset and sub-brightness and contrast. Why would one not want to make that simple subset case as good as possible before messing with the more complex inputs? If you ignore the simple DVI case you may get good results on the other inputs with different gains & offsets, but that will be by compensating errors, which are more subject to drift over time and hitting end limiting conditions. There is a logical argument for doing DVI first, then using those settings as a base for the others and only teaking them to get back toward the results in the simpler DVI case.

I've seen discussions of an updated board...tell me more. Is there a specific need reason, better performance reason, a way to tell which one is installed and a way to utilize a service contract to get it.

Luke

Clyde- I think your logic needs some tweaking. There is no opinion to be had on this, I am merely explaining the proper procedure. It's like saying there is logic to adding your new oil before draining the old. Everybody is so concerned with "tweaks", but there aren't any tweaks, just science. Copying settings from one set or setting to another is a total crap shoot. There is an exact procedure to do a calibration, there are exact standards to comply to, and the results must be quantifiable.

Sorry if this sounds like I am barking, I have just been trying to read through the last 80 pages trying to catch up, and some of the stuff back there is scaring me. There are values being adjusted in the service menu's that have no bearing on what they are trying to accomplish. If Samsung see's this crap they are going to start denying service claims.

Originally posted by SethS
Clyde- I think your logic needs some tweaking. There is no opinion to be had on this, I am merely explaining the proper procedure.

No, you are merely stating that your procedure is "proper" without stating the logic on which it rests. I didn't state an opinion I stated a logical reason for doing the adjustment in the reverse of what you deemed "proper". Logic IS part of science. Perhaps you should explain why a sequence apparently dating from fully analog CRT-based equipment is still appropriate to fully digital gear using wholly different image generation and processing means.

I'm sorry you have problems with the word "tweak", but in the RF design world that I live in it is just the way we describe tuning things for best performance. Don't assume the folks out here don't do science and can be shamed into silence by robed cognoscenti.

Lastly, unlike a CRT that can be damaged by overcurrent, and phosphor that can be burned, there very little in the service menu color adjustments of a DLP (since it only attenuates a fixed light source) that could validly be construed as risking a failure that would not otherwise have occurred. Naturally there will be those who should not adjust something that will anyway -- but we do them a service here by at least suggesting which adjustments are benign and have useful effects, as opposed to those that will require unnecessary service to bail them out.

Originally posted by SilverHemi03
Maybe I have a problem.

About 3 weeks ago, I saw that my Comcast MOTO 5100 had the firmware upgrade of 7.07 so off I go to Gateway and buy their DVI Cable, go home, hook it up and reset the MOTO box and get ready to be amazed. Samsung 4365W.

Ok I was aware that the colors may look a little washed out, but expected SD to look better than the Component 2 input I was using. Well I messed around with the custom settings and SD and wasn't impressed. I was psyched to see more clarity so I left the DVI as the default. SD still better straight from the wall. I use a Dennon AVR for sound so I didn't need to move my audio.

Last weekend SWMBO asked me to fix it so she could hear the sound without the receiver, so I just swithed the input from DVI back to Component 2, and I really liked everything better on Component 2 than DVI.

I think the depth, clarity and PQ are all better on the component inputs from the Comcast Moto 5100 than the DVI.

Suggestions?
I've got an HLN467 hooked to a Comcast Moto 6200 (set to output 720p) and found that for SD the DVI is noticeably cleaner than component. I've also found that the samsung TV does a better job tuning SD direct from the cable than the Moto 6200 does.

So at this point, I use the 6200 just for the HD signals and let the TV tune the SD signals. For HD I find the DVI from the 6200 to be sharper, though its hard to find a stable enough high quality image to test that with. The PBS HD channel works pretty well since they have their PBS-HD "bug" on the screen a lot and they put text/graphics on screen between shows. The defects I see in component are chroma misalignment and slight horizontal smear.

I don't follow what you mean by switching from DVI to component in order to hear the sound without a receiver though. That should make no difference.

Originally posted by SilverHemi03
Last weekend SWMBO asked me to fix it so she could hear the sound without the receiver, so I just switched the input from DVI back to Component 2, and I really liked everything better on Component 2 than DVI.
Suggestions?

For the audio, split the audio output from your Motorola and feed it to both the Component 2 and PC inputs. This should give you audio through the TV speakers regardless of the input (Comp 2 or DVI).

I would like to find a way to feed two inputs to the PC audio connection so that I don't have to swap audio cables when I switch between the 5100 and the HD931 DVD on the DVI input.

I don't find that SD looks better using DVI vs. the straight cable input. The Comcast digital channels do look a little better via DVI, but it's not much. The DVI image is brighter, but the colors are a little washed out and have a yellow tint on some channels. But I was able to see a lot more detail in dark areas, which made me realize that I was missing something on the Component inputs, so I adjusted some SM settings on Component to brighten the image and get back some of the detail.

I also planned to get a switch for audio when I get both a Moto 6208 DVI cable box (soon, according to Comcast) and a DVI DVD. Instead I got a $70 HTIB from Walmart which has two digital inputs (optical, coax) and gives me surround sound as well. Just a different approach, but it does sound better than the TV speakers with little expense and without bothering the neighbors (subwoofer is not powered).

Rich N.

Yeah, I've got a full audio setup too, but there are some times I (or the wife) just want to turn on the TV vs. the full audio. It's not so much the neighbors but the kids sleeping upstairs.

Originally posted by TooLittleTimeZZZ
I've got an HLN467 hooked to a Comcast Moto 6200 (set to output 720p) and found that for SD the DVI is noticeably cleaner than component. I've also found that the samsung TV does a better job tuning SD direct from the cable than the Moto 6200 does.

So at this point, I use the 6200 just for the HD signals and let the TV tune the SD signals. For HD I find the DVI from the 6200 to be sharper, though its hard to find a stable enough high quality image to test that with. The PBS HD channel works pretty well since they have their PBS-HD "bug" on the screen a lot and they put text/graphics on screen between shows. The defects I see in component are chroma misalignment and slight horizontal smear.

I don't follow what you mean by switching from DVI to component in order to hear the sound without a receiver though. That should make no difference.

What I meant regarding the sound was. On the MOTO 5100 ther is only one set of R/L audio outs. Component 2 has 5 inputs 3 component and 2 audio. DVI audio uses the separate audio input to the right of Component 3.

I just haven't picked up a couple of splitters to input to both.

I wanted to thank the folks who were so insistent about a home theater instead of an audio switch when connecting two DVI inputs into my HLN5065W. Of course, my solution will be anathema to many, but..

I bought a $70 dollar HTIB from Walmart (Durabrand). It has two digital inputs, better sound than the TV speakers, and the receiver makes a whirring noise that can be heard when the TV is quiet (well, at least I didn't get the $48 one). However, it does deliver surround sound. Watching a minute of The Scorpion King, suddenly arrows came from the rear to the front. Kinda neat.

Anyway, because it has two digital inputs I am ready whenever I get the Moto6208 and DVI, the neighbors hear nothing (unpowered subwoofer) and I get another new inexpensive electronic toy.

Someday in the future I will upgrade I'm sure.

Thanks again.

Rich N.

I have updated the information on the new HLN-W1 models here:
http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html#_Samsung_HLN_Series
http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html

The main changes I have made are:
- There is no difference in terms of A/V sync issue
- The E10 lens is not new in these models, but has already been incorporated into HLN models, so I've taken out a mention of the lens

These changes were made after getting a clarification from Samsung.

Thanks for the update Arun. The 617 I got in Nov. 2003 is definitely not a W1. No big deal.

I agree that the new W1 models are really not a big deal. For most people, it won't be worthwhile waiting for the new sets or trying to get upgrade to them.

Originally posted by arungupta
I have updated the information on the new HLN-W1 models here:
http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html#_Samsung_HLN_Series
http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html

The main changes I have made are:
- There is no difference in terms of A/V sync issue
- The E10 lens is not new in these models, but has already been incorporated into HLN models, so I've taken out a mention of the lens

These changes were made after getting a clarification from Samsung.

Arun,

Your model/firmware history table still lists the A/V sync issue as being resolved.

Sooke

Thanks, Sooke. The change that I made today was in a little bit of a hurry.

I shall be providing a much more extensive coverage of this topic over the next day or so. And I welcome all input/feedback, like yours, that will help make the content better.

I have posted an interview on Samsung HLN-W1 sets with Steve G. Panosian, Director of Marketing - Digital Projection TV, Samsung Electronics America. See this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=378490

Originally posted by arungupta
I have posted an interview on Samsung HLN-W1 sets with Steve G. Panosian, Director of Marketing - Digital Projection TV, Samsung Electronics America. See this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=378490

I'm disappointed Panosian only mentions the audio sync issue via component inputs and not DVI; my worst problem is viewing DVDs with my Sammie 931 DVD player.

I am collecting data on this issue and passing it to Mr. Panosian. I shall include your observation.

Hi, great site.
I'm new to the DLP (or any big screen TV) technology. I read the info on the upgrades to HLN-W1 sets and Mr. Panosian's interview, is it a good choice to purchase the HLN5065W model? Should I wait until the W1s come out?

Thanks, Larry

After getting my 3rd replacement HLN567W in 2 months (lamp problem and dead pixel with the first 2) I just noticed that my picture setting contain adjustment options for Brightness, Color, Sharpness and Contrast but no "Tint" as the last settingon the bottom as it shows in the manual.

Help?

Are you using component, video or DVI? Tint is an available option for video but not for the component or DVI input.

is anyone fam. w the panny PT60lc13 thsnkd Mikesan1

Originally posted by mikesan1
is anyone fam. w the panny PT60lc13 thsnkd Mikesan1
Try a pan. c13 thread.

I was going to wait for the upgraded W1's based on this forum but now see that there is no 43 incher planned for the future. So if i really dont need the extra space- (i might but cant be sure on the fit of th 46 w1 into my walll unit) do i pounce on the new 3k retail price? or wait and take a look at the LG mentioned recently at ces..any thoughts would be appreicate particulary if cc'd to caledoniasoulmusic-tubes@yahoo.com

PS plans are time warner nyc hdtv into component and cheapo sammy or bravo dvd into dvi? mmmm


thanks alll

Originally posted by kbuzz
I was going to wait for the upgraded W1's based on this forum but now see that there is no 43 incher planned for the future. So if i really dont need the extra space- (i might but cant be sure on the fit of th 46 w1 into my walll unit) do i pounce on the new 3k retail price?
thanks alll
You should be able to get a HLN437W1 without any problem. The HLN467 is the same width but doesn't taper in like the 43" set. LG's LCD RPTV has a very big bezel so I expect their DLP set will too.

have a sam 507w and a child, any advice out there on the best way to clean the screen?

thanks

I use laptop screen cleaner and these funky special lint free hospital sterile cloths.

Originally posted by Zimmy
have a sam 507w and a child, any advice out there on the best way to clean the screen?

thanks
Micro fiber cloth is very popular. I got two at an Auto Parts store for about $7.00. Use them dry or damp. It's the same material that comes with new glasses.

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=44
http://www.neatitems.com/
http://www.pakshak.com/

I use Monsters screen cleaning kit. Comes with a big cloth and spray cleanser that doesnt run. $20, but works well and should last a long time.

Sooke

Arun, who do you think can challange sammy dlp in every area, price, features, quality, avail., etc.? Thanks, mikesan1

Wonder if anyone has manage to get the Momitsu 880 to run at 720x480i resolution output to the 437 via DVI. I figured that the 437 has a better deinterlacer and scaling engine then the 880.

Samsung now has an interactive DLP manual on-line:

www.samsungusa.com/dlpmanual

I hate to ask, but other than the color of the bezel, what is the difference between the 507 and the 5065?

None.

Originally posted by arungupta
Samsung now has an interactive DLP manual on-line:

www.samsungusa/dlpmanual

Arun, please change the link to include .com after samsungusa. Otherwise, the link doesn't work. :D

Uhm, forgot the .com The link is:

http://www.samsungusa.com/dlpmanual/

thanks, I fixed the link.

I also use the Monster cleaner and cloth.

BTW, if there is any question why Samsung decided to knock 500 bucks off of the price of its DLPs, all you have to do is visit you nearest Best Buy or Gateway store. I just saw a beautiful RCA 61" DLP at BB for $3700! And our local Gateway store had a 43" DLP for $2800 advertised in their Sunday newpapaer insert.

I think Samsung's free ride in the DLP segment is over.

I was told that Samsung actually makes the RCA DLP's. Also, I don't think the RCA's have DVI. Personally, I think the reduction is a response to the newer LCD projection TV's.

A CC guy told me the RCA DLPs looked so bad against the Samsungs they took them out.

Originally posted by Gary Rhine
A CC guy told me the RCA DLPs looked so bad against the Samsungs they took them out.

Very interesting. I guess everything is subjective...I thought the RCA set looked great.

Originally posted by johnevo
I was told that Samsung actually makes the RCA DLP's. Also, I don't think the RCA's have DVI. Personally, I think the reduction is a response to the newer LCD projection TV's.
Be careful who you talk to. Your source seems to be on another planet. :)

The RCA DVI port will NOT accept 720p inputs and all external inputs have to go through a digital > analog > digital process. Very unlike any Samsung DLP.

Thompson (RCA) has merged with a Chinese company so that's where I would expect their RCA sets to be coming from.

Hello All,

I have the setup of HLN5065 + HD931(set to 720P), and wanted to see how this setup works with the rest of you guys, any particular settings needed to make it better?

My setup seems to provide the same results with or without DVI and If I use another DVD player( sony) and use component the results seem not different, I have also spent $100 to get the High performance DVi cable of Monstor as I was told that the DVI cable which comes with the Samsung box is not a good quality? is that true DO I need the High perf Monster cable.

The HDTV programming looks fine from the MOt 6200- comcast, the SD sucks, but using DVI from the Cable box, for either connections, the colors look bad, faded, and I preferred the Component rather than DVI.

Are these the same observations that you guys see, any help is appreciated, I have 7 days to return the HD931 and the DVI Monstor cable.
Thanks.

Originally posted by arungupta
The biggest help you may need is actually in my signature.

"If you use analog inputs with Samsung DLP, please don't post PQ complaints, switch to DVI."

Otherwise, you have wasted a lot of money on your expensive TV. And I hate being impolite, but you are wasting a lot of time of other forum members.

Arun -- are you saying that dithering, and "screen door" effects, and color washout are going to be the norm with this TV with the exception of DVI? Thanks for all your valuable info here.

I would return the HD931 and the Monster DVI cable.

Search the forums and you will see that the HD931 suffers from black crush because Samsung uses the PC black level standard on the DVD player while using the video black level standard for the TV (like all other manufacturers use on their TV's.) Samsung and many others will be releasing new DVI DVD players soon that will be superior tothe HD931.

The Monster DVI cable is no better than a regular DVI cable for a short 1 or 3 meter run. The data is send digitally in 1's and 0's and what the cable is made from won't matter, unlike analog signals where better cables can provide improved signal.

Use you old DVD player for a couple of months, especially since you can't tell the difference anyway, and wait for the new units to hit the market.

Originally posted by Ramtajogi
Hello All,

I have the setup of HLN5065 + HD931(set to 720P), and wanted to see how this setup works with the rest of you guys, any particular settings needed to make it better?

My setup seems to provide the same results with or without DVI and If I use another DVD player( sony) and use component the results seem not different, I have also spent $100 to get the High performance DVi cable of Monstor as I was told that the DVI cable which comes with the Samsung box is not a good quality? is that true DO I need the High perf Monster cable.

The HDTV programming looks fine from the MOt 6200- comcast, the SD sucks, but using DVI from the Cable box, for either connections, the colors look bad, faded, and I preferred the Component rather than DVI.

Are these the same observations that you guys see, any help is appreciated, I have 7 days to return the HD931 and the DVI Monstor cable.
Thanks.

I can tell you the cable thing is pure BS. I spent a long time actually designing high speed video interface chips, and still do research in that area, and I do not lose sleep using the DVI cables supplied with equipment. The whole concept of high speed digital video is that only a 0/1 decision in carefully controlled window needs to be made to recover PERFECT video at the receiving end, and there is no proportionality between signal quality and video quality, as long as it is good enough. A radio link is another matter because of the statistical nature of signal paths, but for hard-wired digital video paying gobs for exotic cables is a poor use of your money.

The Samsug allows the color level to be adjusted on the DVI input, so you should be able to compensate if your cable box looks washed-out.

I have DVI DVD, the Bravo D1, which seems to get reviews similar to the HD931 when using DVI, and I am very fond of it; BUT if you need different color settings for DVD and your Cable Box on DVI, then using component for DVD might be a good idea, so they each can be adjusted separately. Quality-wise it would be better to use DVI for HD cable, and use the component input for DVD.

Originally posted by Gilley
I would return the HD931 and the Monster DVI cable.

Search the forums and you will see that the HD931 suffers from black crush because Samsung uses the PC black level standard on the DVD player while using the video black level standard for the TV (like all other manufacturers use on their TV's.) Samsung and many others will be releasing new DVI DVD players soon that will be superior tothe HD931.

The Monster DVI cable is no better than a regular DVI cable for a short 1 or 3 meter run. The data is send digitally in 1's and 0's and what the cable is made from won't matter, unlike analog signals where better cables can provide improved signal.

Use you old DVD player for a couple of months, especially since you can't tell the difference anyway, and wait for the new units to hit the market.


Makes sense for me to return the DVI Cable then, If I return the HD931, what other alternatives do I have to get a High quality DVD displays other than using a HTPC, ANy links which are available which offer other DVD players to be expected in the market, I got the HD931 for $240, and want to be sure before returning it that I have some other option, as else I wont haev any use for the DVI connection to the TV, as the DVI connection from the MOt-6200 is not great to begin with...

Thanks for your inputs guys!!

Originally posted by Ramtajogi
Makes sense for me to return the DVI Cable then, If I return the HD931, what other alternatives do I have to get a High quality DVD displays other than using a HTPC, ANy links which are available which offer other DVD players to be expected in the market, I got the HD931 for $240, and want to be sure before returning it that I have some other option, as else I wont haev any use for the DVI connection to the TV, as the DVI connection from the MOt-6200 is not great to begin with...

Thanks for your inputs guys!!

Check out these links (as found in arungupta's signature):

http://www.digiupdate.com/251_HD_DVD_Players.html
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=349741

Bravo should release their new D2 ($249) within a month (according to emails from VInc. I am waiting on that one to be released. Several manufacturers will be releasing more DVD players mid year and in the fall. They should prove to have the correct video standard and will upconvert like the HD931.

I had an HD931 for a couple of weeks, but returned it after reading about the black crush issue.

Originally posted by Ramtajogi
Makes sense for me to return the DVI Cable then, If I return the HD931, what other alternatives do I have to get a High quality DVD displays other than using a HTPC, ANy links which are available which offer other DVD players to be expected in the market, I got the HD931 for $240, and want to be sure before returning it that I have some other option, as else I wont haev any use for the DVI connection to the TV, as the DVI connection from the MOt-6200 is not great to begin with...

Thanks for your inputs guys!!
Use your Sony DVD player while you learn a little more about the TV you bought.

If your Sony DVD player is progressive turn off progressive mode and connect to Component 1 for the best component PQ.

Here is a link to Arun Gupta's DVI guide.

DVI, HDMI and HDCP – a Practical Guide (http://www.digiupdate.com/G002_DVI_HDMI_and_HDCP.html#_Toc62776218)

Here is a link to Arun's HLN guide.

Samsung DLP HLN & HLN-W1 Series - 2003+ Models (http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html)

I actually got a better picture with progressive scan on and using component 2 or 3. (Its a rca selenium 700)
When I tried a hd931 dvd player, the quality was dvi-progressive-interlaced also.


that latest interview with samsung also indicated you are better converting to the higher signal at the source, rather than having the tv to it:
"Samsung has always maintained that the best picture quality can be realized only when the format selection and scaling is performed prior to conversion to analog component video. "

so I guess if you take a 480i digital signal, convert to analog, send over component cables, convert back to digital, upconvert it, then you get more anomalies than if you take a 480i digital signal, convert to 480p, convert to analog, send over component cables, convert back to digital.

any other thoughts??

Originally posted by scatter

that latest interview with samsung also indicated you are better converting to the higher signal at the source, rather than having the tv to it:
"Samsung has always maintained that the best picture quality can be realized only when the format selection and scaling is performed prior to conversion to analog component video. "

That's Samsung's theory and I can't argue with it. On the other hand, Samsung DLP customers have been reporting better results outputting 480i to Component 1.

Loewe seems to agree with Samsung's customers because they recommend doing the same thing with their $7,000 DLP unless you have a very high quality (>$2k) DVD player.

At the end of the movie we all have to pick what looks best to us.

I have a RCA scenium dvd player and the sammy dlp

Originally posted by scatter
I have a RCA scenium dvd player and the sammy dlp
OK

I did not need that link to the 2004 models. I've been following, but one simple "click" and I was cleaning drool off my laptop. 1080P 73", xHD3, and HDMI. I am going to try to pre-sell my set now (basically psychologically precommit a friend into a verbal purchase agrement and keep hounding for 6 months to make sure he would feel guilty if he backed out) ;)

Is Sept still the anticipated release for the 1080p model?

Originally posted by 1SalesPro
Is Sept still the anticipated release for the 1080p model?
September 2005 wouldn't be too optimistic a gamble. :)

Even for the 61" which stated release September?.....Then 2005 for the 73"

So getting one this year is about like "The Average Joe" thinking he was gonna get a HOT chick huh.................. dreamin?

Originally posted by 1SalesPro
Even for the 61" which stated release September?.....Then 2005 for the 73"

So getting one this year is about like "The Average Joe" thinking he was gonna get a HOT chick huh.................. dreamin?
The odds of getting one this year are better than wining the California Lottery. ;)

Once an OEM is announced then the odds go up unless it's Loewe. They have just gotten the HD2 chip set into a few dealers.

Hello All, I bought an HLN617W and the image at times does not completly fill the bottom of the screen. When this happens a trail of ghostly artifacts trail across the bottom. It seems to come and go and doesn't happen at all with DVD or VCR. I am wondering if this is normal for this TV and what I can do to prevent it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Originally posted by AVLayman
Hello All, I bought an HLN617W and the image at times does not completly fill the bottom of the screen. When this happens a trail of ghostly artifacts trail across the bottom. It seems to come and go and doesn't happen at all with DVD or VCR. I am wondering if this is normal for this TV and what I can do to prevent it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

You need to be more specific as to where the video signal is coming from, the settings and inputs on the tv when it does this, whether the programming is HD or SD, etc.

Its a good idea to post this information at the minimum to get help:

What is your source box
What are you watching, HD or SD, what program/DVD, what aspect
What type of connection (DVI, Component1, ..)
What resolution is your connection e.g. 720p
What is the aspect on your TV, e.g. TV-wide, PC-wide, ...

Originally posted by htwaits
Thompson (RCA) has merged with a Chinese company so that's where I would expect their RCA sets to be coming from. When did this happen and with who??

Does anyone know for sure whether Samsung will no longer have the Toshiba lamp assembly (BP96-00224A) available? That's the lamp that my HLN507W now has. Samsung Parts no longer carries the Toshiba lamp assembly, but instead has BP96-00435A which is a Toshiba lamp to Phillips conversion kit, which includes the BP96-00435C (Phillips lamp) & kit.
If the kit they are talking about is a Phillips ballast, then there are going to be a lot of unhappy Sammy DLP owners when it comes time to replace their Toshiba lamp. The TV is advertised as having a "User Replaceable" lamp. A ballast replacement is not something that the average user will want to do, which will add the cost of having a tech come & install the part.

Jeff

Originally posted by jedvik
Does anyone know for sure whether Samsung will no longer have the Toshiba lamp assembly (BP96-00224A) available?


I, also had the BP96-00224A on order thru Samsungparts. It was on backorder and I was told finally that they no longer carried it, but would offer a "lamp replacement kit" (a new Philips bulb and ballast).

Then, yesterday I received my BP96-00224A. It wasn't packaged in original packing (it was wrapped in bubble wrap and packing peanuts).

One of the (2) tabs with mounting screw was broken off and lying in the box. I tested the lamp and it works, but I don't know how old it is or if it's been used since it wasn't in original mfr. packaging...

Originally posted by holemania
yesterday I received my BP96-00224A. It wasn't packaged in original packing (it was wrapped in bubble wrap and packing peanuts).

One of the (2) tabs with mounting screw was broken off and lying in the box. I tested the lamp and it works, but I don't know how old it is or if it's been used since it wasn't in original mfr. packaging...

That doesn't sound good if one of the tabs was broken. I would worry about the lamp assembly staying properly seated. I'm assuming that you're talking about the 2 screws on either side of the handle that's used to pull the lamp assembly out?
I sent an email to Samsung to see if they will verify whether the BP96-00224A is discontinued. I don't know if the question will get to the proper person to answer it or not.
I think they should still make the Toshiba lamp available for those of us with that lamp & ballast combination.

Jeff

I have a Samsung HLN5065w that I have been using for 8 months or so... The last several day it has been taking what seems like an eternity to get through warm-up, and clicks and seems to restart the process in the middle of the start-up cycle prior to the lamp coming on...

This morning, it repeated this process, but instead of starting, I got three blinking lights... defective lamp, on the first weekend of the NCAA's, Very bad... Unable to turn the set off by remote, I un-plugged and re-plugged, and attempted another start-up. This time the set went through three distinct cycles, including multiple fan startups, before the lamp came on, and the set began operating normally.

Any thoughts or suggestions, do I need prfessional help, or is my lamp just losing it?

Please advise.

It's too bad these lamps are going this soon.
I guess having a replacement on hand is really the wise thing to do even though it shouldn't be necessary and the manufacture should cover it especially on new technology!

What is needed is a 'sleep or standby' mode for the lamp where it goes to a dim state (just as photo flash units do) when not in use (user controlled). I would say they didn't design enough ventalation into the area around the lamp (probably to keep the noise down).

As far as your problem, you can try to pull out and reseat the bulb assembly. Just be sure you don't touch the glass with you fingers!

I think your lamp is going bad. I experienced the same behavior right before mine died.

So, where do we go to get a spare lamp ?

I think Samsung will replace a lamp that goes out during their warranty period.

Samsung parts:

http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/support/replace_parts/b2c_replace_parts_ce.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0339595124.1079799 712@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadckmkmdkigcfejceefdfggdhgn.0&eUser=

The price for the lamp is now $200. Not cheap, but better than $300 it was orginally going for (AFAIK).

BTW..........for those that complain about that price, I would rather pay that and replace it myself than have something else go wrong where the service call itself is $200 without the part (if something was going to go wrong with a set)!

Originally posted by videobruce
Samsung parts:

The price for the lamp is now $200. Not cheap, but better than $300 it was orginally going for (AFAIK).

BTW..........for those that complain about that price, I would rather pay that and replace it myself than have something else go wrong where the service call itself is $200 without the part (if something was going to go wrong with a set)!

I think ~$200 for the lamp is reasonable. However, those of us with the Toshiba lamp (BP96-00224A) are stuck with a ballast that isn't compatible with the new Phillips lamp. We will have to buy the Phillips ballast & lamp combination for $250, plus pay the $200 service call to have it installed.
I spoke to Samsung Digital support yesterday & they verified that the Toshiba lamp would no longer be available.
I got an email contact at Samsung to voice my concerns. I think that the thousands of us with the original Toshiba lamp assembly shouldn't be stuck with lamps that are no longer user replaceable.

Jeff

I think ~$200 for the lamp is reasonable. However, those of us with the Toshiba lamp (BP96-00224A) are stuck with a ballast that isn't compatible with the new Phillips lamp. We will have to buy the Phillips ballast & lamp combination for $250, plus pay the $200 service call to have it installed.

How do you know which lamp you have without taking the lamp out? My service menu shows Tos/Phil for lamp. Does this mean I can use either lamp?

Originally posted by frankhj
How do you know which lamp you have without taking the lamp out? My service menu shows Tos/Phil for lamp. Does this mean I can use either lamp?

Does your TV have a sticker on the left side (when facing the TV) with the lamp part number? My DLP is old enough that it doesn't have the sticker.
If not, then you'll have to remove the lamp assembly to tell. If the p/n isn't on the lamp assembly, then you can tell by looking at the connectors.
Here's a link to a post with pictures of the connectors (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3317855#post3317855)

Jeff

Thanks, I have the sticker. It is part# BP96-00224C(P), so I am in good shape, right?

Originally posted by frankhj
Thanks, I have the sticker. It is part# BP96-00224C(P), so I am in good shape, right?

Yep. You have the Phillips lamp & ballast.

Hello all, this is my first post. Great forum. I've been taking in all the valuable information here over the past few months and finally purchased an HLN437W. The price was right and I didn't want to wait any longer for solid release dates on the "P" series. Things look good so far (no rainbows, no lip-sync), but the fan sounds noisy. I can clearly hear it humming from 9 ft any unless the volume is turned up to around 10. Is this normal? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Dave

yep, but if you live by a train track, it's annoying at first, but eventually you sleep right through it.

Originally posted by 1SalesPro
yep, but if you live by a train track, it's annoying at first, but eventually you sleep right through it. "train track" ?? You must mean a railroad line...........it's only annoying when you can't see them!

Originally posted by jedvik
I think ~$200 for the lamp is reasonable. However, those of us with the Toshiba lamp (BP96-00224A) are stuck with a ballast that isn't compatible with the new Phillips lamp. We will have to buy the Phillips ballast & lamp combination for $250, plus pay the $200 service call to have it installed.
I spoke to Samsung Digital support yesterday & they verified that the Toshiba lamp would no longer be available.
I got an email contact at Samsung to voice my concerns. I think that the thousands of us with the original Toshiba lamp assembly shouldn't be stuck with lamps that are no longer user replaceable.

Jeff What is involved in changing the ballast? Can't be that much?

Has anyone been able to use the multi-function remote that comes with the HLM617W?

Originally posted by jedvik
Yep. You have the Phillips lamp & ballast.

Would you recommend where to buy it online?
Thanks.

You can order from [url[/url] but
since the bulb is made by Philips, they may sell
it thru their distribution chain as well. Note the former misspelling :
Philips has only one 'L'


[edited for advertising]
moderator

Using the DVI cable and a 720p setting on the set top box with TV in TV wide mode my picture is off center to the right. There is a grey band (maybe 2 inches) along the left side.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Is there a way to center the picture in either the TV menu or the set top box menu? I may have missed something in the menus.

Originally posted by kkngcoffee
Using the DVI cable and a 720p setting on the set top box with TV in TV wide mode my picture is off center to the right. There is a grey band (maybe 2 inches) along the left side.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Is there a way to center the picture in either the TV menu or the set top box menu? I may have missed something in the menus.
On TS160: Setup->Installation->Monitor setup (as far as I remember).

Hope it helps,
Kirill

Thanks!

I must have missed that in the Menu.

Originally posted by dscoff
Things look good so far (no rainbows, no lip-sync), but the fan sounds noisy. I can clearly hear it humming from 9 ft any unless the volume is turned up to around 10. Is this normal?

Dave

Are you sure it is the fan? I got a new hln567 on 1/9/04. After about a week, I started hearing the load noise as well. When turning off the set, the sound would go away after about 10-20 seconds, leaving just a much quieter sound that lasted around 60 seconds. Turns out, the loud abnormal) noise was the color wheel - the quieter sound was the fan. So, listen when you turn the set off. BTW - since I had bought the set at Tweeter, they simply replaced it with a new one!

--Anthony

After reading user problems on this and other threads (CRT, plasma,etc)
where owners are returning set after set to the store, or paying to have
a brand new set "calibrated," it's quite obvious to me that the HDTV technology is not there yet in terms of reliability, efficiency or ease of use.

Originally posted by theBike45
After reading user problems on this and other threads (CRT, plasma,etc)
where owners are returning set after set to the store, or paying to have
a brand new set "calibrated," it's quite obvious to me that the HDTV technology is not there yet in terms of reliability, efficiency or ease of use.
You need to take a class in statistics and sample selection. :)

LOL

Yeah man, I have had mine for a month now, and have had NP.
I put in a DVD with the sammy 931 and had a bit of LS for a min. or 2 but it went away.
I seem to have found that when you tinker too much you will "cause" a problem. (if it aint broke dont try to fix it ).

Originally posted by theBike45
After reading user problems on this and other threads (CRT, plasma,etc)
where owners are returning set after set to the store, or paying to have
a brand new set "calibrated," it's quite obvious to me that the HDTV technology is not there yet in terms of reliability, efficiency or ease of use.

HeHe.. I guess your waiting for the equivalent of the Apples of the PC's in the TV world, when we get to the one button remote we will let you know. :)

Originally posted by htwaits
You need to take a class in statistics and sample selection. :) I don't think he is really out of line, in fact he is right on!
All you have to do is look thru these forums and the answer is right there.

Look at the example of just recording a HDTV 'broadcast' program! The only real choice of a recorder doesn't even have a built in HD tuner in it! You have to spend another $1,000 (or more, forgot the price) for that 169time contraction AND another $600 for a tuner!

Look at what you have to do to get a computer hooked up with scalling and the like.

No, sorry he is right on the mark! ATSC has a LONG way to go!

Originally posted by TheBrainKills
HeHe.. I guess your waiting for the equivalent of the Apples of the PC's in the TV world, when we get to the one button remote we will let you know. :) No, he just wants something that most people can set up without a half a dozen add ons!
Everyone (unlike many in these forums) can't afford $10k, $30k or more just to watch HDTV, nor do they have the time, knowledge or patience to experiment with all these beta devices!

This forum is not a statistically accurate representation of the HDTV experience. From a statistical point of view it is grossly skewed.

The problems with HTPC connections are consistent with PC problems in general and not HDTV. And, from the point of view of a lot of manufacturers, they would just as soon have the HTPC go away because of the problems they cause.

We, as a nation, are famous because of our reputation for not being able to set up our VCRs to record programs. That national quirk has nothing to do with HDTV.

It is too early for most people to buy a HDTV but they are not basing that choice on what is written here. For those who do want HDTV now and who read these forums it's important to remember the reports written here are "not" a statistical representation of the HDTV experience.

As far as "theBike45"'s comments went, I was just pointing out that his "general" conclusion that HDTV was not ready for consumption was not supported by either the "statistically skewed" comments in these forums or in the HDTV buying public in general. The coming year will probably be another boom year, and HDTV seems to me to be developing faster than I remember "color" TV developing.

Originally posted by videobruce
Everyone (unlike many in these forums) can't afford $10k, $30k or more just to watch HDTV, ...
You must spend a lot of time in the high end front projector forums. Those folks are building real home theaters not just watching HDTV. :)

In this forum (RPTV) most folks are looking for a total system including sound in the $2k to $5k neighborhood. Now that isn't chump change either.

I agree that HDTV tuners are over priced, but that is changing fast. In fact, the "over priced" Sony LCD RPTV sets for 2004 may have tuners added for no increase in price.

I also agree that every year prices will be lower for the same or better HDTV performance. In fact, I haven't been overcome by an irresistible urge to fork over a few thousand either.

One reason that I may never get a HDTV is that I'm afraid that I would set it up, turn it on, and go into an instant and permanent "WoW!" state. That would mean that I might never find the time to come back to these forums to announce how happy and trouble free my life had become. :D :D :D

Actually I don't spend time over there. I have seen those forums, but since that is way out of my price range I don't bother.

If you factor in not just the TV, but the stand, the speaker system, the receiver (or amp) the HTPC and or DVD player, D-VHS recorder, tuner and other add ons you can easiely be over $10k!

1080p model, is way to go

What exactly do I need to run an HDMI DVD player with my Sammy DLP? Is there an adapter necessary and if so where may I purchase one?

Thanks.

Originally posted by videobruce
If you factor in not just the TV, but the stand, the speaker system, the receiver (or amp) the HTPC and or DVD player, D-VHS recorder, tuner and other add ons you can easiely be over $10k!
Of course you can. I think most people do it for a lot less. My receiver cost a little over $400, my speakers are over 10 years old, my stand cost $78 at IKEA, I expect to pay no more that $350 for a DVD player some time in the future, and I already have a PC that is capable of doing HTPC applications. I see no need to add another dead end device (D-VHS recorder) to my collection.

Even so, spending $5K to watch movies on demand is something I've never done before. :)

Originally posted by zoro
1080p model, is way to go

Do any networks have plans to start broadcasting in 1080p?

Originally posted by Sea Ray
Do any networks have plans to start broadcasting in 1080p?
Not that they have ever talked about. According to our resident experts it's not likely to happen any time soon. Maybe after the 1080i/720p equipment has been installed and amortized. ;)

It would be nice to see more 720p material first ... or at least real 1080i (full spec'ed resolution). The 1080p material will probably come from storage media (optical disc, etc.) and broadband first. Most of us will initially simply scale up lesser resolutions to exploit our 1080p displays.

Originally posted by xortam
Most of us will initially simply scale up lesser resolutions to exploit our 1080p displays.

Would scaling up 1080i or 720p material to 1080p give you a better picture? I would think not but please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm thinking it'll be a long time before it is beneficial to have 1080p. By then the whole TV will be much nicer too, so I'd tend to just settle for 1080i and 720p TVs for now and upgrade the whole TV when 1080p is in vouge.

ive heard it mentioned before that some people thought deinterlacing a 1080i would give you a better picture, maybe some of the temporal benefits of 720p with the 1080i resolution. I'm not sure though

What exactly do I need to run an HDMI DVD player with my Sammy DLP? Is there an adapter necessary and if so where may I purchase one?

Thanks.

Sage540

You need an HDMI to DVI connector. Check out bettercables.com. That is where I went. Also if you have a cablebox that has DVI, check out their DVI switcher. I got one and it works great since the HLN567W only has one DVI port.

What HDMI DVD player do you guys have by chance?

maxvengeance111,

I have a Pioneer Elite DV59AVi connected my HLN617W DVI input using an HMDI<->DVI cable from Gefen. Works great, although I have to select the DVI input on the Samsung before the 59AVi recognizes it and turns on the HDMI output.

Bruce

Ditto here Pioneer Elite DV59AVI hooked to HLN567W. Only problem I have is with my Gefen DVI Switch, and it is becoming more of an annoyance, conflicts with the infrared remote codes between the DVI remaote and the 59AVI remote. You hit the remote for the 59AVI and the switch changes active ports. Any ideas on a solution for this?
Sorry that last a bit off topic.

VinceP - apparently Geffen will fix this for you, for $25. common problem that they are familiar with. contact them.

Originally posted by videobruce
Samsung parts:

http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/support/replace_parts/b2c_replace_parts_ce.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0339595124.1079799 712@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadckmkmdkigcfejceefdfggdhgn.0&eUser=

The price for the lamp is now $200. Not cheap, but better than $300 it was orginally going for (AFAIK).

BTW..........for those that complain about that price, I would rather pay that and replace it myself than have something else go wrong where the service call itself is $200 without the part (if something was going to go wrong with a set)!

Videobruce,
Thanks for the site address. It leads you to www.samsungparts.com
where you can do a search for what you need. I have had my HLN617W for about 8 months now and have not had any trouble with the lamp. But, with some extra tax "refund" money I decided to purchase a replacement lamp. There were two replacements listed on the website and after opening my set I found it was the Phillips BP96-00224E (whew! lucky it was not the other bulb people are chatting about). It cost $199, and the order went thru without a problem.

PS this is certainly the best set I have owned (had a Toshiba 57H81 previously). Picture has not required any of the convergence tweaks that the rear projection unit needed. The picture is clear edge to edge... I mostly watch Direct TV on an Ultimate PVR, DVD's on a Sony DVD player, or HD broadcasts on a Samsung HD Tuner.

Thanks again,
Dan

Hello All, I bought an HLN617W and the image at times does not completly fill the bottom of the screen. When this happens a trail of ghostly artifacts trail across the bottom. It seems to come and go and doesn't happen at all with DVD or VCR. I am wondering if this is normal for this TV and what I can do to prevent it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

The TV is connected to a SIR TS160 satelite receiver
It is SD quality
It is from a DVI connection
720 resolution
And I've tried all different aspect ratios with the same results. Thanks!

I believe that there is an adjustment in the TS160 that will let you move the image down enough to cover what you are seeing.

I think when you are connected using DVI with the TS160 outputting 720p to a 16x9 display the only aspect modes available are Wide (PC) and Wide (TV). You should be using Wide (TV) if that's your setup.

In any case, it's not likely it's the TV causing your problem.

1. Make sure that your TV is in TV Wide mode.
2. If it is, and the bottom of the screen is still not filled, you would need to go in the service menu and adjust the vertical offset. If you decide to go this route, I suggest you to read a lot about service menu in this forum before doing it.

PS: There is no vertical adjustment in TS-160. The only adjustment in monitor setup is done to center a 4x3 image.

Hope it helps,
Kirill

Originally posted by Kir
PS: There is no vertical adjustment in TS-160. The only adjustment in monitor setup is done to center a 4x3 image.

Kirill
It's been over a year since I had the TS-160 for two weeks. It does have a horizontal adjustment, but not vertical.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3539978#post3539978 ( Click here.

If you go into the SM here are some instructions and precautions.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that I am passing on the wisdom of others and that I have no personal knowledge of the Samsung DLP TVs. I'm still waiting.

On the other hand I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making changes.

****** Thanks to LCH for a clearer explanation than the one I wrote. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Does the Samsung have a screen saver function??
ifso, can we upload our own screen saver to it?

Originally posted by GLO
Does the Samsung have a screen saver function??
ifso, can we upload our own screen saver to it? No, and it doesn't need one either. You can always run a screen saver from PC output or you could run something like the Nemo DVD loops if you want.

I have never heard of an uploadable screen saver for the Sammys. There is no danger of burn in, so it isn't necessary.

OK, so I've read all of the posts about differences between the 5065 and 507 models, and believe that the Faroudja chip is in both. I've just bought a HLN5065W and would like to know what I can do to verify for myself that the Faroudja goodie is in there. I've read a lot of threads and have seen references to the service menu (apparently it should be obvious), but would like a specific pointer.

THanks in advance, and apologies for those of you who are way ahead of me on this stuff.

SCS

I bought a Sam HLN507W1 from CC. In the store, it looked absolutely fabulous. But then they have HD input. The salesman switched it to regular (analog) and it was (to be very frank) an absolute letdown. There was a lot of pixalation in some places and the images were often blurred. Especially if there were and people in the background on the screen, their faces would be absolutely blurred. He said it was because all the TVs in the store share the same signal so there is a lot of noise and since I have dish connection, the signal will be digital and much better.
Hello,

I got the TV delivered over the weekend, and am somewhat disappointed with it so far when it comes to regular TV programming. DVDs look amazing, but regular programming is worst than my 27” CRT. Some channels are OK, but some are very bad. I was watching Nine Months yesterday and the picture was horrible. Colors were spreading all over the place and there was a lot of pixalation. Like my wife said, everyone looked like they had a one day old stubble. Is there and setting to change this or it is entirely a signal issue. If digital signal is this bad, I can’t imagine how analog reception will look. I am not convinced that I am the only one who has this TV but not HD. If this is a signal issue, then will a plasma or LCD have the same problem?

I have an S video connection and digital signal (since it Dish i assume) . I did read that DVI is the best but I don’t have HD so no DVI connection.

The other issue is the green color. I read about getting into the system menu by pressing mute 8-2-1 power (or some similar numbers). I did that and got into the menu but could not change any settings (I think I have to change the DNIe).

Can someone throw some more light on these issues? I am about to return this set if the reception is this bad.

I bought a Sam HLN507W1 from CC. In the store, it looked absolutely fabulous. But then they have HD input. The salesman switched it to regular (analog) and it was (to be very frank) an absolute letdown. There was a lot of pixalation in some places and the images were often blurred. Especially if there were and people in the background on the screen, their faces would be absolutely blurred. He said it was because all the TVs in the store share the same signal so there is a lot of noise and since I have dish connection, the signal will be digital and much better.
Hello,

I got the TV delivered over the weekend, and am somewhat disappointed with it so far when it comes to regular TV programming. DVDs look amazing, but regular programming is worst than my 27” CRT. Some channels are OK, but some are very bad. I was watching Nine Months yesterday and the picture was horrible. Colors were spreading all over the place and there was a lot of pixalation. Like my wife said, everyone looked like they had a one day old stubble. Is there and setting to change this or it is entirely a signal issue. If digital signal is this bad, I can’t imagine how analog reception will look. I am not convinced that I am the only one who has this TV but not HD. If this is a signal issue, then will a plasma or LCD have the same problem?

I have an S video connection and digital signal (since it Dish i assume) . I did read that DVI is the best but I don’t have HD so no DVI connection.

The other issue is the green color. I read about getting into the system menu by pressing mute 8-2-1 power (or some similar numbers). I did that and got into the menu but could not change any settings (I think I have to change the DNIe).

Can someone throw some more light on these issues? I am about to return this set if the reception is this bad.

Originally posted by bufford
OK, so I've read all of the posts about differences between the 5065 and 507 models, and believe that the Faroudja chip is in both. I've just bought a HLN5065W and would like to know what I can do to verify for myself that the Faroudja goodie is in there. I've read a lot of threads and have seen references to the service menu (apparently it should be obvious), but would like a specific pointer.

THanks in advance, and apologies for those of you who are way ahead of me on this stuff.

SCS
Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that I am passing on the wisdom of others and that I have no personal knowledge of the Samsung DLP TVs. I'm still waiting.

On the other hand I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making changes.

****** Thanks to LCH for a clearer explanation than the one I wrote. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

nikkhas,

I had a Dish 508 PVR hooked up to my samsung 567 and was not very happy. DVDs looked great on my HTPC w/DVI, but most of the dish channels looked bad. The locals looked the worst due to the high compression.

I have since switched to a 811 HD receiver and what a difference! I am using DVI and all of the channels look WAY better! Of course HD looks great! Get rid of the S-Video ASAP!

I also had a green "push" which was taken care of with an ISF calibration. Once I switched to DVI, it really wasn't too bad but I wanted as good as I can get.

Read Arun's Samsung and DVI guides. With a fixed pixel display, you should send it the best possible single / source. Garbage in = Garbage out.

Jeff

So this number (or something else on the first page) will confirm that the Faroudja chip is present?
SCS

Originally posted by bufford
So this number (or something else on the first page) will confirm that the Faroudja chip is present?
SCS

It is in their advertising so if the chip is not there they have one heck of a legal problem.

It's been said hundreds of times. All of the Samsung DLPs have the chip. The only reason it isn't on the Sammie website for a couple of the models or in any 'review' using material lifted from the site for those models is to create an artificial difference (and I think a post of mine saying exactly this is buried in this monster thread; I'm sure several by others are here saying the same thing). Arun's document listed at the top says that, also.

There is nothing in the SM that says it. Please read Arun's document for details.

(There is also no need to quote the extire post that's right above the one you you are referring to.)

Originally posted by leesweet

There is nothing in the SM that says it.

Actually, I think there is. I'm not at home now, or I would check, but the Faroudja chip set has an ID associated with it. That ID is visible in the SM and confirms the existance of the Faroudja chip. It's present in my HLN5065W.

But if you use DVI input like I do, which is where the HLN shines, it doesn't really make any difference anyway.

Originally posted by RogRacer
Actually, I think there is. I'm not at home now, or I would check, but the Faroudja chip set has an ID associated with it. That ID is visible in the SM and confirms the existance of the Faroudja chip. It's present in my HLN5065W.

But if you use DVI input like I do, which is where the HLN shines, it doesn't really make any difference anyway.

I believe the Faroudja chip is represented by the FL*** whatever code in the SM when accessed through ANT or S-Video inputs. If it is blackout then it is not active. I can't recall exactly what it says but it starts with FL followed by some numbers and is about 3rd on the list

Hm, really? Perhaps I'm guilty of missing a factoid in the original paper also! :) It's a minor point, since all of the sets have the same chip.

htwaits ... maybe its time you write a script to automatically post your SM instructions. ;)

Originally posted by xortam
htwaits ... maybe its time you write a script to automatically post your SM instructions. ;)
What? Me program? Not likely. :)

I have an HLN 617w it is 720p native. My SA3250hd cable box lets me set it to 720p or 1080i most of the programs are in 1080i should I have the cable box set to 1080i or 720p for the best picture with 1080i content or is it better to just leave it at 720p. I can set it to pass-thru or fixed or manually change it for each show.

I set mine to 720p.

so Lane what do you think of your 617? Mine is due the 21st of April.

HLN567w (214). I've had this set since August. I've only been using the DVI port for a few weeks (with Voom). Lately it's been blacking out for 1 or 2 seconds at a time when on DVI. When it comes back on, it says "DVI" for a couple of seconds. For a few days, it did it every 20 minutes or so. Then earlier today every 5 minutes. Just tonight, every 5 seconds or so.

Any ideas?

Originally posted by tstevens
Just tonight, every 5 seconds or so.

Any ideas?
My first suspision would be that Voom STB is having hand shake problems. If you could get a DVI enabled DVD player you could test to eliminate the TV as a source of the problem by feeding it 720p.

Originally posted by htwaits
My first suspision would be that Voom STB is having hand shake problems. If you could get a DVI enabled DVD player you could test to eliminate the TV as a source of the problem by feeding it 720p.

That was my thought, but I turned the VOOM completely off and the TV continued to cycle. Unfortunately, I don't have anything else with a DVI connection to test.

Originally posted by tstevens
That was my thought, but I turned the VOOM completely off and the TV continued to cycle. Unfortunately, I don't have anything else with a DVI connection to test.

Turning it off is probably not a valid test, even turned off I believe the STB DVI connection is still active. I have my cable box connected via DVI and when I turn it off I just get a black screen, but if I unplug the DVI cable the TV displays a NO SIGNAL message.

Sorry to jump in the middle of problem solving, I had a few noob questions of my own. I have a HLN507W purchased last month. My question is, before I got HD service via Pace HD cable tuner, I was using a straight digital connection via coax. When I connected the HD box with component cables to Component3 of course the PQ is great on HD channels, but I noticed some of the DLP menu options I can no longer use(auto volume, film mode,MTS audio, along with a few others) I have the TV set to wide, and the box set to 1080? Im sure Im doing something wrong as this is my first TV purchase in 10 yrs.(been saving awhile) and expirience with HD .
I have read much of arunguptas links , but am still looking for a more basic explanation.
Thanks