My Unofficial Guide to Samsung HLN Series DLP Sets [Text View] - Page 9

gakon

10-01-04, 10:54 PM

Originally posted by DustynW
You are on your 4th color wheel???? Have these all bee covered under warranty? My warranty expires this month, but I wonder if the new color wheel came with a one year warranty from the date it was replaced?

I doubt Samsung would advertise that the color wheel had a 1 year warranty, but they probably would be good enough to cover it. I have an extended warranty anyway, so it would be covered, one way or another. To answer your other questions:
Yes, although it's more accurately the 4th light engine (including the original). All were replaced under warranty. The first one started making color wheel noise after about two - three months (maybe 200 - 300 hours). The second engine was very quiet but "lost" a portion of the display (about 1/2" along the left side "disappeared" after a week or so). So it was replaced after about a month. The third engine had a noisy color wheel that started after a few weeks - I let it go for a while, then had it replaced this spring. The fourth one has been quiet so far. My warranty is up this month, too.

I don't think that the quality control is decreasing - I think this was an issue that cropped up with the wheel bearings (maybe quality, maybe design). But, if perrycom's problem is on an HLP set, I'll be a little disappointed - either Samsung is still using old color wheel bearings (if that's truly what it was) or the fix didn't really work.

NathanE

10-02-04, 12:44 AM

All,
First of all let me say how much I appreciate this web site and these forums. You guys are awesome on this whole HDTV subject. Thanks!

Now, my experience w/ the Samsung DLPs - and they're illustrious color wheels...

I bought a Samsung HL-P5063W from BB about 2 weeks ago, and unfortunately, it didn't make it one week in my house. The reason was purely color wheel. After my wife and I put about 12 hours on the set, we both started noticing a very high-pitched whistle coming from it. (It was so loud and noticeable that my wife said she could hear it over the vacuum!) Anyway, the picture, IMHO, was way better than I expected. I plugged in Xbox (thru the component HD pack), GameCube (SVideo), a PC (base configured to use SVGA @ 1024x768), and a simple DirectTV source (fed with SVideo.) __NEVERTHELESS__, neither of us could stand the noise coming from the color wheel. (The fan incidentally was super-quiet!)

We went back to BB, and stuck our ears behind all of the other DLPs there, and only found 1 to 2 others (not sure on the 2nd one) that seemed to be making the noise. I spoke with the sales reps there, and they suggested I use the service plan I'd purchased to have a tech come out and check out the set. I did that, but found that my degree in electrical engineering (and my reading of this site) put me in a way better spot to fix my TV than the guy that showed up to do it! (That's great support I tell ya'!) Anyway, he agreed the color wheel was producing the noise, and basically said I should return the set - which I, of course, had by that point decided to do.

So, we took back the Sammy and decided to run from the DLP thing all together. We didn't want to chance another singing color wheel. Eventually, we decided to try our hand the 2nd time with an LCD RPTV - specifically the Sony KF-50WE610. Unfortunately, after 24 hours with this set, I'm not impressed. 2 problems here - one perceived and one real. The perceived problem is that the picture quality on the set is just NOWHERE NEAR the DLP. IMO, that DLP set rocked this one. The show-stopper here (the real problem) is that the TV's memory is apparently defective. Everytime I turn on the set, though it's remained plugged in the whole time - with its standby light on, the TV makes me go through the basic calibration crap! So, as soon as I have an input configured, if I turned off the set, it resets everything. NOPE!!! This one's going back too!

So, now what do I do? My wife's just really sick of this crap. She'd be ok to go back to the 27" analog!; but I, of course, can't just drop it like that. What are your suggestions? Do ALL of these Sammys suffer from color wheel problems like my HLP did - adn the HLNs mentioned previously here? Will I be forever replacing parts on it? Or, have a few of you had luck with them, and had them running noise-free for any amount of time?

Please let me know!

Thanks!

PS ---
Incidentally, I did notice the following other, smaller, issues with the HL-P5063W; but none of them were show-stoppers like the color wheel noise.
- I did have the sound sync issue I'd heard mentioned in these forums. And it was extremely noticeable whenever I turned on both the TV's speakers and my surround sound system. There was huge distrotion there, so the TV's speakers HAD to stay off.
- I also noticed the video lag (again, mentioned on this site) when playing GameCube (w/ the Svideo in). (I never saw it with the component in from the Xbox.) This was not a big deal b/c I could eliminate it by simply turning off the DNIe.

Kenlex

10-02-04, 08:30 AM

Originally posted by NathanE
So, now what do I do? My wife's just really sick of this crap. She'd be ok to go back to the 27" analog!; but I, of course, can't just drop it like that. What are your suggestions? Do ALL of these Sammys suffer from color wheel problems like my HLP did - adn the HLNs mentioned previously here? Will I be forever replacing parts on it? Or, have a few of you had luck with them, and had them running noise-free for any amount of time?

Nathan,

I got my HLN set in August of '03, and it arrived with a screaming color wheel. I bought mine from Tweeter, and also bought their service policy. They had a knowledgeable, Samsung-trained tech out in a flash. I didn't know what the noise WAS at the time (hadn't found AVS Forum), and he identified it as a color wheel that needed replacing. It took a few weeks for him to get the part in (actually, he decided it would be faster -- in terms of parts ordering -- to replace the entire light engine, which he did).

I have had no color wheel noise since, and that's now over a year ago. The same tech came back a few months ago to do the "two-board lip sync fix;" he LIKES working on Samsung TV's; says they're easy for a tech to work on (nicely laid out, can get at what you need to without disassembling the entire set) and Samsung is a very responsive manufacturer.

I don't know whether it's a design problem or a manufacturing problem, but clearly some % of color wheels come through with noisy bearings. But many are fine; my advice is to go with the Sammy (if you can live with its other issues) and keep at it until you get a quiet color wheel.

johnevo

10-02-04, 09:17 AM

I agree with Kenlex. I think I went through an extraordinary number of light engines and processing boards, but I now have a TV that is awesome to watch. It blows away the 30" LCD (that we have upstairs) in terms of PQ. The audio synch problem isn't much of a problem anymore, and I don't have any more internal reflections. Plus, Samsung has been awesome with their support. Even if it takes a few repair visits, at least you can be assured they will eventually take care of it.

willieG

10-02-04, 09:28 AM

I've had a Sammy HLM507 for 20 months now and initially had minimal color wheel noise, but all of a sudden it has started to scream. So apparently finding one with a quiet color wheel doesn't mean it will stay that way.

Sea Ray

10-02-04, 10:15 AM

Having owned one (troublefree) for over a year I suggest you go with the Samsung DLP and get the extended warranty. That way any problems that arise are "theirs" not yours. Believe me the chances of getting a quiet color wheel are much greater than getting a problem one.

If you do have any problems, make it their problem. Pickup the phone and say "you've got a problem, come fix me up". That's why you pay the outrageous extended warranty price.

gtbdevs

10-05-04, 01:14 PM

Agree with the above, I had my DLP since 11/2003, have not had any noise what so ever.

The only problem I had was with the sync problem, I called SAMSUNG up on a Friday, they had the tech guy at my house on Monday.

He replaced all the internals on the TV, to me the PQ is even better than it was, actually, just calibrated the set last night using DVE, all I can say it that the picture is truly amazing.

Go with the DLP.

perrycom

10-06-04, 02:43 PM

Originally posted by gakon
...But, if perrycom's problem is on an HLP set, I'll be a little disappointed - either Samsung is still using old color wheel bearings (if that's truly what it was) or the fix didn't really work. No, I have a year-old HLN.

John Kane

10-09-04, 10:12 PM

I have been reading this thread with interest, since the Samsung HLN467W set that I purchased in April 2004 seems to have gotten louder. I hear a high pitch resonating whine that seems undulate up and down (and go louder/quieter). It doesn't come off as a constant sound d, which is bad because that makes it harder to ignore. I don't remember hearing it before, but now I'm tuned into it.

Its definitely not as loud as some of the posts I've read ("unbearable"), but it has begun to bother me. For those who have complained, did the noise get increasingly louder with time?

--Joe

vadman

10-10-04, 12:01 PM

I had a similar issue. Noise got louder and then stopped eventually. At the same time it stopped I noticed that certain colors were off or smeared. Had Samsung replace my color wheel and that solved the problem. I agree, the noise is really annoying.

cyberbri

10-10-04, 01:27 PM

Originally posted by John Kane
I have been reading this thread with interest, since the Samsung HLN467W set that I purchased in April 2004 seems to have gotten louder. I hear a high pitch resonating whine that seems undulate up and down (and go louder/quieter). It doesn't come off as a constant sound d, which is bad because that makes it harder to ignore. I don't remember hearing it before, but now I'm tuned into it.

Its definitely not as loud as some of the posts I've read ("unbearable"), but it has begun to bother me. For those who have complained, did the noise get increasingly louder with time?

--Joe

That's the color wheel. If it's started to get noisy, it will probably gradually get louder. Just call Samsung and have them replace it.

mikeagregor

10-13-04, 06:15 PM

Originally posted by cyberbri
How many hours have you put on it? I noticed at about 6-7 months, my SM says I've put about 1700 hours on it. I had noise starting to get pretty loud 2-3 months ago, and had the color wheel replaced maybe a month or so ago.

What is SM and how can I check to see how many hours I have put on my HLN617W?

mikeagregor

10-13-04, 06:22 PM

Originally posted by millerwill
I have the Onkyo 770 HIiB system and find it outstanding, esp for $450. I highly recommend it, and you can read a great deal about it in the Home Theater in a Box forum.

I went with the Onkyo HTS770 yesterday and all I can say is WOW. I am exstactic with it. The sound is totally enveloping, powerful and rich. The only 2 complaints I can think of are 1) The size of the box it comes in (had to remove everything to get it in the car), and 2)The manual serttings are very complex possibly due to the fact that this is my first receiver and the amount of inputs I have and many options there are. Thanks alot for the suggestion. I am thrilled with the purchase and the a threads dedicated to this system have been helpful so far.

cyberbri

10-13-04, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by mikeagregor
What is SM and how can I check to see how many hours I have put on my HLN617W?

To get into the Service Menu, turn off the Melody confirmation chime in the user menu, and then press Power - Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power. Lamp time I think is in the last menu on the list.

I suggest not changing anything here either, unless you know what you are getting yourself into.

mikeagregor

10-13-04, 07:12 PM

htwaits

10-13-04, 07:32 PM

Originally posted by cyberbri
I suggest not changing anything here either, unless you know what you are getting yourself into.
When changing the SM record every setting first -- go slow, and then taper off. :cool:

It can be a lot like changing complex software without documentation.

mikeagregor

10-13-04, 09:31 PM

Originally posted by htwaits
When changing the SM record every setting first -- go slow, and then taper off. :cool:

It can be a lot like changing complex software without documentation.

Or like showing the wife all the HT gear you bought without taking her shopping for herself first! LOL

TheWarden

10-17-04, 03:01 PM

Has anyone that has the color wheel noise issue had Samsung replace it during the "extended warranty" period? I bought my TV on 10/7/03, and sent in the registration card, which should give me an extra 3 months of warranty time. I'm assuming they received it since I get Samsung email now and haven't registered on their site.

The noise has gradually gotten louder and louder over the past couple of weeks and I called them today to set up an appointment...got to call them back tomorrow tho since the digital TV dept is closed today.

If they didn't get the card, and my warranty is out, any ideas on how much it'll cost to replace the wheel?

TW

Manatus

10-17-04, 05:12 PM

Originally posted by TheWarden
Has anyone that has the color wheel noise issue had Samsung replace it during the "extended warranty" period? I bought my TV on 10/7/03, and sent in the registration card, which should give me an extra 3 months of warranty time. I'm assuming they received it since I get Samsung email now and haven't registered on their site.

The noise has gradually gotten louder and louder over the past couple of weeks and I called them today to set up an appointment...got to call them back tomorrow tho since the digital TV dept is closed today.

If they didn't get the card, and my warranty is out, any ideas on how much it'll cost to replace the wheel?

TW

I can't address any color wheel issues, but Samsung replaced the entire light engine of my HLN507W during the 3-month "extended warranty" period. The issue of whether the TV was in the regular or extended warranty term didn't come up when I requested service.

mikeagregor

10-17-04, 06:02 PM

Originally posted by cyberbri
To get into the Service Menu, turn off the Melody confirmation chime in the user menu, and then press Power - Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power. Lamp time I think is in the last menu on the list.

I suggest not changing anything here either, unless you know what you are getting yourself into.

That was very helpful. thanks. how did you learn about that?

cyberbri

10-17-04, 09:11 PM

I read up on the tweaks thread, experimented a lot but was sure not to touch anything I wasn't sure about without changing it right back (to see what it changed, if I could tell).

Pretty much the only thing you should be changing are the brightness and contrast settings, plus the color offsets and gains (amount of color in darks and lights, respectively). Depending on your equipment and your factory settings, you may be able to get by without going into the SM just by working with your user menu settings (br/ct, color, tint, color temp).

I did all of my DVD tweaks at night, because I watch DVDs at night and need the settings adjusted for that. Watching during the day, I would need a boost of about 20-25 in the br user menu setting to get the same amount of shadow detail.

I was also working with an HTPC for DVDs, which presents its own problems. But it took maybe 4 months or so of tweaking a little, trying in a week or two to tweak again, etc. to finally get it "right." A lot of that was also figuring out the right tools and how to make things look right. Most of this was with htpc DVD, but still... Knowing what I know now, I could probably do it in one night.

So knowing what you're getting into will really help. :)

This has good information on calibration:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6463_7-5085739.html

This is for calibrating PC displays (or HTPC), but there is good information written in each section as well:
http://www.displaycalibration.com/

And there's a lot of information here:
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/panelofexperts.html

HTH

cyberbri

10-17-04, 09:22 PM

One more thing...

On my HLN, entering the SM reverts the TV back to the Dynamic settings.

This means that when I'm making adjustments to the SM, I am viewing that through Dynamic user menu settings as well (CT 100, SH 65, BR 50?, Color 65?). If you tweak and get a good picture in the SM and then go and drastically change the UM settings (mainly br/ct), you're defeating your calibration. My custom settings bring sharpness to 0, and color down to about 50-55, with minor adjustments to br/ct as needed (so I don't have to go all the way back into the SM just to do it).

Hope that helps.

mikeagregor

10-17-04, 09:52 PM

Wow it seems as if you really did your homework. It IS very helpful that you told me about the revert back to dynamic settings. I had my set ISF calibrated about a month after purchase and was wondering why brightness and contrast looked different after checking the lamp hours. I changed the settings back to custom after reading your post and all is back to my normal viewing experience. Out of curiousity, did you have your set calibrated professionally as well as tweaking it yourself? I think that I personally will only use the sm to check the lamp hours unless you think there is another need for me to do so?

Mike

cyberbri

10-17-04, 10:03 PM

No, I haven't had it done professionally. It probably would have saved a lot of trouble, but that's okay.

jsteinme

10-17-04, 10:13 PM

I have a question about getting my HLN507W upgraded so I have 480i to 1080i on all of my component inputs. Reading the comments in this various threads leads me to believe this would come as part of a fix for the audio sync problem which consists of replacing two boards in the TV. Is this correct?

I am awaiting a light engine replacement for a noisy fan and/or color wheel, will the component input upgrade come as part of the light engine replacement? If not I am thinking I should look for the audio synch problem to see if I can get the upgrade for free. What is the best way to look for the audio synch problem? I do not currently use the audio output from the TV at all, all my audio is fed to my amp directly and I do not watch the TVs tuner.

Thanks.

mikeagregor

10-17-04, 10:28 PM

Originally posted by cyberbri
No, I haven't had it done professionally. It probably would have saved a lot of trouble, but that's okay.

It seems to me that you can alter just about everything you need to from the SM except greyscale levels so if you are happy with the greyscale levels on your set then I guess there is no need for the ISF calibration and you certainly have more knowledge in calibrations than any of us that took the easy way out.

Iceblade

10-18-04, 10:36 AM

Mike,

I think you meant to say "UM" not "SM" in your post. The User Menu is the normal menu you get to to set things like Color and Tint, Brightness and Contrast and Sharpness. The Service Menu is much more detailed and complex and addressed many other things.

Later,
Jeff

cyberbri

10-18-04, 11:48 AM

Originally posted by mikeagregor
It seems to me that you can alter just about everything you need to from the SM except greyscale levels so if you are happy with the greyscale levels on your set then I guess there is no need for the ISF calibration and you certainly have more knowledge in calibrations than any of us that took the easy way out.

I'm not sure what you specifically mean by "grayscale levels," but I imagine that would be a combination of brightness and contrast. The lower you take brightness, the bigger the black end of the greyscale spectrum gets - and the higher you take contrast, the bigger the white end gets. The user menu adjustments are fine for all this stuff, but I did fine tuning with the color gains/offsets as well. You can bring brightness down to get pure black, but if that makes the bottom end of the spectrum too dark, you can turn up the offsets to an appropriate level to put light back into the non-black darks.

And you can use test discs for DVD players, different pattern generators, etc for HTPCs, but it's basically "steaming rat" for cable. Luckily it's a bit easier, because you don't have test patterns to jump back and forth between driving you crazy trying to get right. ;)

Kevin R. Anderson

10-18-04, 03:06 PM

You are talking about contrast and brightness. Grayscale calibration is where you adjust the set to produce an even color temperature of 6500 kelvin across the IRE scale or grayscale. Here is a link to a good introductory article on the topic http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/avhardware/Grayscalecalibration1.html

To do this calibration, you need to beg, borrow or rent an ISF tech or a colorimeter for $300 to many thousands of dollars.

Many people (myself included) feel that your display device can never reach its full potential unless the grayscale is properly calibrated.

cyberbri

10-18-04, 03:10 PM

Ahh, getting the right color temp. Okay. Yeah, I've done it by eye as close as I can get it by eye, checking pattern generators, etc.

If I had the money I would consider getting it professionally calibrated, although I don't know how much more a pro could possibly squeeze out of it, aside from having my set lined to improve blacks and cut down on IR. I have other things I'd rather be spending my money on. :)

vblyth

10-28-04, 12:02 AM

Samsung tech support is telling me that the Phillips 100W lamps are an acceptable substitute for the 120W lamp in the HLN617W.

Has anyone out there put the Phillips 100W lamp (BP96-00224C) in their HLN617W instead of the original Phillips 120W lamp (BP96-0024E)?

If so, what is your opinion of the brightness of the set with the lower watt lamp? has it been an acceptable substitute?

Sea Ray

10-28-04, 09:39 AM

Why not put a 120W lamp back in? Why cut corners?

vblyth

10-28-04, 08:17 PM

I have been unsuccessful so far in finding a 120W lamp. samsungparts.com automatically sent me the 100W lamp as a replacement and told me that they did not have any of the 120W lamps in stock. their customer service stated that Samsung said this was acceptable and that they have been making this substitution on a regular basis. It appears that the 120W lamp may become non-existent in the future. If anyone knows of an alternate source for the 120W lamps, please let me know.

Thats why I am interested if anyone has any experience concerning using a 100W lamp in the HLN617W.

KRB

10-28-04, 08:24 PM

AFAIK SamsungParts.com is another company and not technically part of Samsung. I'd call Samsung directly and ask if this is a kosher parts substitution.

jojo57

10-28-04, 08:52 PM

Watch out for this samsungparts its really J & J international, they sold me a service manual for a HLN 5065 when I received a HLM manual I called and was told THEY ARE ALL THE SAME.They finally sent the correct man, 9 weeks and 3 phone calls and 2 e mails later but it was copied and UN readable.I hope I never have to deal with them again.

vblyth

10-28-04, 08:55 PM

I have called Samsung directly and they have told me that the 100W lamp is an acceptable replacement. However, they were not able to give me acceptable technical answers for why the replacement is acceptable such as:

Will the ballast in the HLN617W make the 100W lamp perform as a 120W lamp (which is the case with the new HLP 61" models)? Will the brightness and life of the lamp be comparable? If the 120W was originally required, why is the 100W lamp now acceptable?

The only answer I was able to get was that the 120W bulb was used because there was originally two suppliers for the lamps, Phillips and Toshiba. I was told the Toshiba was an inferior bulb and the 120W was required, whereas the Phillips 120W was more than adequate. Now that only Phillips supplies the lamps, the 100W lamp is an acceptable replacement for the HLN617W. Do I completely buy this? I don't know.
I have also approach Samsumg support via email with my questions/concerns, but have yet to receive a reply.

But once again, thats why I am interested if anyone has any experience concerning using a 100W lamp in the HLN617W. I can't be the only HLN617W owner that has faced this issue.

jojo57

10-28-04, 09:03 PM

try these folks http://www.hermanelectronics.com/OEMSearch.asp

jojo57

10-28-04, 09:06 PM

check the manual complements of EVSTAR http://evstar.eatsleepcode.ca/HLN_Manual/

jojo57

10-28-04, 09:10 PM

Different lamps and ballasts too. PDF PDF http://evstar.eatsleepcode.ca/HLN_Manual/8-%20Exploded%20View%20&%20Parts%20List%20-20030627111114015_l62a-evapl-10.pdf

HLM507WFan

10-29-04, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by jojo57
check the manual complements of EVSTAR http://evstar.eatsleepcode.ca/HLN_Manual/

This is fatastic! Thanks to whoever posted this. Even though I have an HLM507, it is fascinating to be able to look at the SM. Does anyone know if a SM for the HLM507W is online somewhere? Thanks again for advising us of this link, and thanks to whoever posted the manual!

reneirwolf878

11-01-04, 10:57 AM

I have an HLN 4365W and I've heard something about an upgrade. I was hoping that this upgrade would fix the washed out PQ and grainy dark scenes on my TV. If someone could please tell me if there is an upgrade and where to get it it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Sea Ray

11-01-04, 11:02 AM

Originally posted by reneirwolf878
I have an HLN 4365W and I've heard something about an upgrade. I was hoping that this upgrade would fix the washed out PQ and grainy dark scenes on my TV. If someone could please tell me if there is an upgrade and where to get it it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like you have a calibration issue, not an upgrade. I have that TV as well.

reneirwolf878

11-01-04, 11:09 AM

reneirwolf878

11-01-04, 11:10 AM

It's been almost a year since I've been in the SM to try tweaking. I have a couple days off thsi week and I plan on trying to fix my TV so that games will look decent on it (Halo 2 in a week, gotta get it looking good for that!).

Are there any suggestions that you could give me for calibration? And How do you enter the SM again? Mute 1-8-2, power off, on?

Sorry if these questions have been asked a lot (I know they have, i found them a year ago) but searching for them is quite difficult as a slew of threads come up)

cyberbri

11-01-04, 11:50 AM

Here are some links that might help you:

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6463_7-5085739_1.html?tag=fs

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/panelofexperts.html

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=261309

http://www.displaycalibration.com/ (if you use your TV as a monitor, but there is still great information to be read)

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/avhardware/Grayscalecalibration1.html

And there is an "Official DLP -N- Series Tweak" thread (not 100% sure about the name of the thread) that you could read through (that might take a day in and of itself. ;) )

Remember that you will have to calibrate per input type. So if you have a DVD player and Xbox on component inputs, if you have a calibration setup disc you can calibrate with that, and the Service Menu settings will carry over to the Xbox component input. You can adjust the User Menu settings per input, however. But without some sort of calibration disc or pattern generator, you can only go by eye. Personally I've noticed that DVDs and TV are much more demanding of good calibration. Most games aren't too dark, unless you're playing Doom 3 all the time - which would need a dark room (with a DLP) and very good brightness (black level) settings. Video games look artificial anyway. But with movies, you'll want to make sure the colors are what they should be, and the darks are dark enough with enough shadow detail. With Halo, if it's too dark, you can always turn on the flashlight. :)

But if your TV doesn't look decent now, it's going to take a heckuvalot of tweaking to get it looking decent. Going from 0 knowledge to getting my set well-calibrated took 3-4 months (not that I was working on it every night or anything). And getting my HTPC set up 'properly' took even more work, with the intricacies of all the software and settings, etc.

And I know I can't totally control my room lighting. A good setting of 50 for brightness (black level) in my User Menu at night needs to be at about 70-75 during the day to see the same detail in blacks (although the actual black level is raised). So your room conditions are very important.

There's a lot to do, and if you want to go from 0 or near 0, to a well-calibrated setup, in just a few days, you mine as well consider getting your set professionally calibrated. See the first link, last page of the article for more about having it professionally done: http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6463_7-5085739_1.html?tag=fs

reneirwolf878

11-01-04, 12:22 PM

Thanks for links and for helping me out. I'm also seeing now that when I'm switching between the standard and service menus that my color settings in the standard menu are resetting to Dynamic. Is there a way to stop it from doing this?

cyberbri

11-01-04, 12:40 PM

No, it will revert to Dynamic. Actually you are viewing the TV through Dynamic settigns when in the Service Menu. That's why I make my adjustments in the Service Menu, back Dynamic's Sharpness down to 0-10, and leave the other Dynamic settings basically the same (using Custom settings). If I notice any minor tweaks that need to be made, small increments in brightness, etc., I make those with the User Menu.

I set Brightness (black level) in the Service Menu, and leave it at 50 in the User Menu (unless I need to make minor changes). I also leave Contrast (white level) at 100 in the User Menu, and get a good white level in the Service Menu. Boosting color Offsets (amount of color in low levels (gains = high levels)) and bringing down brightness (black level) can give you darker black and more shadow detail - rather than sacrificing black level at expense of getting shadow detail.

nixima

11-01-04, 02:33 PM

Just thought I would post out here since I just returned my Sammy HLP for a Sony GWIV.

The main reasons for the return were the video game lag and rainbows on the HLP. Although I have only had the GWIV for 3 days I am very pleased with my decision. Video games are now playable!!! I am using a PS2 connected via s-video. The twin-view (picture-in-picture) is awesome on the GWIV!! I can play video games on a sizeable window that takes up most of the screen and then watch TV in a smaller window. I know you can do this on the Sammy also but I can get a bigger window for the PS2 on the Sony.

Bottom line is the Sony is the perfect video game TV for my setup.

nixima

11-01-04, 02:36 PM

Sorry, I posted in the wrong thread...I meant to post in the thread about the PS2 delay on the HLP...

gshelley61

11-24-04, 10:43 AM

Hi, it's been awhile since I've lurked around the forum. I need the link and /or info (maybe a calibration spreadsheet?) on service menu tweaks for the HLN476W... the threads are so long now, I'm having a heck of a time finding it!

bw191

03-01-05, 02:34 PM

http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=295056

bw191

03-01-05, 02:52 PM

I had a tech adjust my display (4365w) last night . I wanted it rotated square and moved up a bit.
He did it but the image is still a little wider at the bottom than at the top. He said the Samsung spec allows for trapezoiding of the mirror (?) and it was the best he could do.
This sound right?

vlapietra

03-09-05, 01:53 PM

Yep. They all have some degree of bowing.

HLM507WFan

03-10-05, 03:33 PM

Really? Maybe I'm missing something...I've not noticed that on mine???

KRB

03-10-05, 03:36 PM

Neither have I on 43" model. Vinny, are you referring to pin-cushioning?

vlapietra

03-11-05, 01:25 PM

D'oh! Yeah, pin-cushioning. I knew bowing didn't sound exactly right when I initially replied. :)

It is only really noticeable when the image is in 4:3 mode. Something to do with the distance between the lens and the screen, I believe.

HLM507WFan

03-11-05, 03:10 PM

Hmmm, i guess i must not know what to look for, because i still dont see that type of problem.

cyberbri

03-11-05, 03:16 PM

I only see it when I'm using DVI/VGA with my computer. I can see the left side of the screen is wider at the top than the bottom, just slightly. Maybe 3/8" to 1/2" difference or so. I'm not sure about the right side, as I don't have icons on the desktop there.

I haven't noticed any geometry distortions anywhere else, on my set at least.

mikeagregor

03-12-05, 07:47 PM

I have had the Zenith HDSAT 520 D* receiver for quite some time hooked up to my Samsung HLN617W DLP. I am beginning to wonder if it would be beneficial to watch standard definition programming via the S-video output of the box at 480i rather than the DVI output at 720p (which looks really horrible at present). Maybe the up-conversion from the box takes away a little clarity of the SD broadcast. The only reason I am asking is because I haven't had the time to calibrate any S-video inputs of the set and the color, tint, etc are all off and I cannot tell by looking so maybe if someone has first hand experience it will save me some valuable time. I am assuming that D*'s SD broadcasts are just crap. Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

cyberbri

03-12-05, 08:33 PM

There's only one way to find out if you'll get better pq, and that's to try it. You might want to try bypassing the cable box all together and split the cable at the wall and go through your tv's bulit-in tuner. Try both and see what happens.

mikeagregor

03-19-05, 06:22 PM

A) without the directv receiver, there will be no picture and
B) the samsung dlp's don't have a built in tuner

htwaits

03-19-05, 08:21 PM

Originally posted by mikeagregor
A) without the directv receiver, there will be no picture and

Cyberbri thought you were talking about a cable STB. He missed your abbreviated (D*) reference to your DirecTV box.

B) the samsung dlp's don't have a built in tuner

Just so someone who doesn't own a Samsung DLP set won't get confused, the HLM, HLN, and HLP models of Samsung do have a SD tuner that works OTA and with Cable but not with satellite sources. Those models do not have a HD tuner. The new HLR models will have a HD tuner added but still will not have a tuner that works with satellite services.

GLO

03-19-05, 11:32 PM

Has anyone had to replace their bulb?
Ifso, was it replaced with the 120W variety or the 100W?

Also, how much was it?

Thanks

mikeagregor

03-21-05, 07:18 PM

Does anyone have a playstation 2 hooked up to a HLN set? If so, has anyone tried to play the new game Gran Turismo 4 in the HD mode (1080i)? I can play the game in the 480p mode but when I try to play it in 1080i, the dreaded "Not Supported Mode" message appears. I am sure that I am connecting to the proper component inputs (either component 2 or 3) so I am lost. Maybe it is a glitch in the sony 1080i output or the native resolution of the set (720p) doesn't recognize the 1080i signal.

cyberbri

03-21-05, 08:43 PM

On HLNs, Component 1 is 480i/p only, and the other two are 480p and up only (no 480i). That could be your issue, if you have it hooked up to the wrong input.

mikeagregor

03-22-05, 05:09 PM

Cyberbri, for some crazy reason, the manufacturer of my and quite a bit of other sets as I am told have different component inputs for different signals. I actually select 1080i on the playstation game and then within my 15 seconds grace period I get before reset to 480i, I get up and switch to Component 2 or 3 (the ones that accept a 1080i signal) and I still get "not supported mode". I did start a separate thread dedicated to that specific issue and it explains more so rather than repeat it here, here it is. Thanks anyway Cyberbri. I always appreciate your help.

Mike

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=522631

ender21

03-29-05, 12:29 AM

Originally posted by GLO
Has anyone had to replace their bulb?
Ifso, was it replaced with the 120W variety or the 100W?

Also, how much was it?

Thanks

I bought a replacement bulb and it was the 100W variety. According to both Samsung customer service and the people who sell the bulbs for Samsungparts.com, it's the ballast on the DLP that controls the wattage, not the bulb itself. So thus it shouldn't matter that the part was originally intended as a 100W replacement for smaller DLPs, it should only matter what the ballast on your particular DLP puts it at after it turns the bulb on.

However, I plugged in my replacement bulb to verify it worked properly and to measure the differences between it and my original bulb, and not only was it not any brighter, it was dimmer. My original bulb was measuring at about 13 foot lamberts, and the replacement was measuring at approximately 10. This is when I got into the discussion with Samsung and Samsungparts about the specifics of the wattage rating and the ballast.

I've since sent back that replacement bulb and exchanged it for another one, which also was of the 100W variety. I've yet to test it out though, to see if there's any improvement.

The price was just over $200.

Rick

pknoettner

09-12-05, 06:55 AM

Local CC stores have the 42PX50 on sale now and then for 10% off MSRP. Has anyone managed to get a better discount than that by simply asking for a lower price? Also, when there is no sale going on can you still bargain them down?

Gilley

09-12-05, 09:40 AM

You might try Costco or Sam's Club for a better price.

newski

10-02-05, 03:44 PM

This doesn't seem to be too active lately but I don't see any other HLN threads around. I just noticed the TEMP light on. It seems to stay on whether the TV is on or off. Been on now four a couple of days I think (light not TV.) I looked in the manual but it only shows a blinking possibility, this isn't blinking. {HLN467, no problem up to this point.}

Any thoughts, anyone?

UCSB

10-02-05, 03:58 PM

FriscoJoe

11-25-05, 03:17 PM

gakon

11-25-05, 04:13 PM

My HLN occasionally does the same thing. It's as if it's having trouble lighting the lamp. This does not happen frequently (maybe 3 times in the past year), and I haven't found any common event that precedes this.

GLO

11-26-05, 07:43 AM

I have the Australian 61" LCD projection version and have had the same problem.

The fault usually indicates a lamp malfunction (from the LED flashing under the display). Indicative of poor ventilation or something like that.

Subsequently, i had my balast replaced, and my bulb as it had shattered ( i didnt hear it explode) but the balast replacement fixed the problem.

That was over 6months ago and the problem is just starting to recurr.

The only temporary fix is to power cycle the unit (take it completely out of STANDBY) by using the power button on the right hand side, and switching back on after 30 seconds.

Hope this helps! (make sure you sort this out under warranty)

Icarus

11-26-05, 10:58 AM

I had the same thing. It was the lamp assembly. I was able to get it working by reseating it, but that was only temporary .. it worked a few times. I had problems with the first new assembly they sent me, but I called the supplier and they replaced it.

-David

ted08721

11-26-05, 06:51 PM

My HLN 467w started to act up (lamp not firing up all the time) Tweeter came out about a month ago (have 5 yr. warantee) replaced with new light engine including new lamp. Have had the set for 2yrs. and several months. They had replaced the color wheel about a year ago. I have been very happy with PQ. Only bummer it takes Tweeters 2 weeks to come out, and if they don't have the part you have to reschdule a new apointment which only gets reschudule after they get the part in. 2 weeks for first trip+ 1 week to get part in + 2 more weeks for appointment = 5 WEEKS :(

Steve O

12-11-05, 11:09 PM

I've got a question about the DLP Engine on my HLN507W (actual p/n HLN507WX/XAA). The color wheel had gotten very loud, so I called in Tweeter to fix it (I too got the 5 year waranty). The set is a little more than 2 years old.

The tech came and replaced the color wheel, but in the process of doing so, I think he got some dust on the optics. There's now several big fuzzy white dots on the screen. They're very obvious during dark scenes especially.

The tech came back out and the diagnosis is now "replace the engine". I've read that there's various engines that can go into the set (read this thread for W1, etc.). I also seem to recall (though I can't find the messages that say so) that some people got an upgraded engine to fix the audio synch problem but they weren't as happy with the picture.

So, is there anything I should know about the replacement engines? Do they even have the older ones anymore, or should I expect a W1? One of the things that I've always had a bit of an issue with is that the picture has always been shifted to one side slightly. Will the replacement of the engine fix this too? How much work do they have to do to get the picture centered on the screen?

In general, I just want to know if there's anything I should be aware when they replace the engine. Issues I should make sure the tech looks out for?

Thanks,
Steve

cyberbri

12-12-05, 04:20 AM

Picture quality may differ slightly because LEs are slightly different and may require different Service Menu settings (if you've gotten that far).

For the picture being off-center, you can adjust the horizontal/vertical alignment in the service menu. If the tech replaces your LE, turn the set on and make sure it's centered to your satisfactioon. One time the tech put the LE in and it was really far to the left. I moved the alignment to the right, but the right side is still a little blurry for some reason (can only tell on HTPC input with text, etc.).

With a new LE, it will also come with a brand new bulb. The tech should reset the lamp time (hours on) in the Service Menu as well.

sage540

12-26-05, 12:45 PM

TV has only one DVI connection and my Direct TV HD box is currently in there. How can I hook up the DVD player to DVI as well. Will component work for upconveting or do I need to get a switcher? If so, which one?

Thanks.

cyberbri

12-26-05, 12:59 PM

Switch your DTV box to component and DVD player to DVI. Or, get a DVI switcher.

sage540

12-26-05, 01:19 PM

Thanks. So the box should work with component?

cyberbri

12-26-05, 01:30 PM

Thanks. So the box should work with component?

Your DTV box should work equally well with component and DVI, since both can carry hi-def signals. I assume you will get more improvement with DVI over component on your DVD player.

However, you should probably look up your DVD player in the DVD forum here, as some players have known problems with either component or DVI, etc.

cornercarver

12-26-05, 05:47 PM

My 43" HLN has had an incredibly loud fan noise for a long time. It is 2 years old next week, and it is been making the noise for at least 18 months. It came on gradually, so I always thought it was normal, but eventually I went and compared it to a new unit at a store, and sure enough, the fan noise coming from my DLP set is WAY louder than any noise coming from a new set (which was basically silent). I don't know if it is a fan or just the color wheel itself, but whatever it is, it clearly has a bad bearing. Samsung, of course, refuse to do anything about it, since the set only had a 1 year warranty, so I assume I'm stuck shelling out cold, hard cash to repair this manufacturing defect. Anyone have any idea how much it is likely to cost me to have it repaired? Is it semething I could do myself?

--sam

hpm123

12-26-05, 05:54 PM

I have my 43" HLN for a few years now and never had any real problems. Yesterday I noticed that when I powered it up about 15-20 seconds later, it seems to power down and then start power up again. It may do this 2-3 times before finally fully powering and displaying the picture. It has done this the last 3 times I've turned on the set.

Has anyone heard of such a problem?

I have an HLN5065W that did the same thing you've noted yesterday. I've had this unit for close to 2 1/2 years, and have only noticed this happening probaby twice prior. When I power my unit up, you can hear the color wheel (I assume its the color wheel) always make 3 attempts to spin up. Not sure why it does this, but has always done this spin-up sequence in 3's, with the 3rd always bringing up the picture. Yesterday didn't get a picture on the 3rd spin, and don't remember how many times it tried to spin-up after the 3rd try, but the whole unit went thru what I'll call a power down sequence, and then powered up again on its own. I could hear the color wheel spin up but don't remember if it went through 3 tries or not, but after this power down/up sequence, my picture came up. This unit has always had a great picture but has always had it's little quirks as well. I am assuming other HLN's act the same with the 3 start-up sequences of the color wheel. What I am describing is an audible change in frequency pitch, where this frequency fluctuation occurs 3 times. At least this is what my set has always done.

Got a 4-yr warranty and not sure if I should put a trouble call in to get this addressed before the warranty goes out. This symptom seems to be normal with this set, so not sure if anything will be accomplished by placing a call -

Kenlex

12-26-05, 06:09 PM

Cornercarver,

The best way to tell if it's the fan or the color wheel is to notice when the sound goes away at shut-down. If it goes away as soon as the set goes off, it's the color wheel. If the same sound continues for 30 seconds after shut-off, when the light engine has already shut down but the fan is still running, it's the fan.

I heard from a Tweeter serviceman once that extreme dust on the fan blades can make the fan noisy. But if the noise really does sound like a failed bearing, it's probably the color wheel. Mine came like that from the factory (August '03) and was replaced under warranty.

cornercarver

12-26-05, 06:51 PM

It definitely continues for a few seconds after the picture shuts off, but only 3 or 5 seconds, not 30, and when it finally turns off, there is a brief flicker of light, wnhich I assume is the lgiht engine shutting down, so I guess that's the color wheel. Any clue as to the repair cost?

To be honest, I think mine came that way from the factory, too, but I was a LOT farther from the TV in the room it was originally installed in, which also allowed higher audio volume, and I think I was just unaware of the noise until we moved 6 months later. Then, I thought it was normal for a while. Then, it took me a while to bother going to check one in a store, even once I thought i was abnormal - cause I thought it had a 2 year warranty.

cyberbri

12-26-05, 07:01 PM

Just call and get it fixed. Samsung is great about that. If you've calibrated your set, hope that they replace the bad part and not the whole light engine, because then you'll need to re-calibrate. But if they do exchange the whole LE, you at least get a new bulb for free.

cornercarver

12-26-05, 07:23 PM

I tried that. They told me, immediately, that it wasn't covered by warranty and that I'd have to get it fixed myself. I could try again and hope that I get a nicer support person, I suppose. I had hoped that they would volunteer the repair, since it is clearly a defect in the product, in a part which shouldn't wear out in the lifetime of the TV.

--sam

Icarus

12-26-05, 07:39 PM

I have an HLN5065W that did the same thing you've noted yesterday. I've had this unit for close to 2 1/2 years, and have only noticed this happening probaby twice prior. When I power my unit up, you can hear the color wheel (I assume its the color wheel) always make 3 attempts to spin up. Not sure why it does this, but has always done this spin-up sequence in 3's, with the 3rd always bringing up the picture. Yesterday didn't get a picture on the 3rd spin, and don't remember how many times it tried to spin-up after the 3rd try, but the whole unit went thru what I'll call a power down sequence, and then powered up again on its own. I could hear the color wheel spin up but don't remember if it went through 3 tries or not, but after this power down/up sequence, my picture came up. This unit has always had a great picture but has always had it's little quirks as well. I am assuming other HLN's act the same with the 3 start-up sequences of the color wheel. What I am describing is an audible change in frequency pitch, where this frequency fluctuation occurs 3 times. At least this is what my set has always done.

Got a 4-yr warranty and not sure if I should put a trouble call in to get this addressed before the warranty goes out. This symptom seems to be normal with this set, so not sure if anything will be accomplished by placing a call -

Sounds like the bulb. Try a new bulb. If it isn't the bulb, you'll have a spare on hand, so it won't cost you anything extra to try that first. Mine did that when the bulb was starting to fail. You can try re-seating the lamp assembly first, but you will probably need a new one soon anyway.

-David

shortbus

12-26-05, 09:38 PM

I have a HLN6017W and had the color wheel replaced 2 months ago. It cost me $212.00 with no warranty. I have owned this set exactly 2 years.

Marcus

Gilley

12-27-05, 09:49 AM

I have an HLN5065W that did the same thing you've noted yesterday. I've had this unit for close to 2 1/2 years, and have only noticed this happening probaby twice prior. When I power my unit up, you can hear the color wheel (I assume its the color wheel) always make 3 attempts to spin up. Not sure why it does this, but has always done this spin-up sequence in 3's, with the 3rd always bringing up the picture. Yesterday didn't get a picture on the 3rd spin, and don't remember how many times it tried to spin-up after the 3rd try, but the whole unit went thru what I'll call a power down sequence, and then powered up again on its own. I could hear the color wheel spin up but don't remember if it went through 3 tries or not, but after this power down/up sequence, my picture came up. This unit has always had a great picture but has always had it's little quirks as well. I am assuming other HLN's act the same with the 3 start-up sequences of the color wheel. What I am describing is an audible change in frequency pitch, where this frequency fluctuation occurs 3 times. At least this is what my set has always done.

Got a 4-yr warranty and not sure if I should put a trouble call in to get this addressed before the warranty goes out. This symptom seems to be normal with this set, so not sure if anything will be accomplished by placing a call -

My HLN617 has never done a 3 cycle start up, so it doesn't sound normal. Since you have the extended warranty, get it checked out.

HLM507WFan

12-27-05, 12:53 PM

Your DTV box should work equally well with component and DVI, since both can carry hi-def signals. I assume you will get more improvement with DVI over component on your DVD player.

However, you should probably look up your DVD player in the DVD forum here, as some players have known problems with either component or DVI, etc.

Just wanted to echo the comments. I have an HLM507 (hence my screen name -- very clever, right?). I was using my old Voom box through DVI for HD signals, and bought a 950 upconverting DVD player. If you go into the archived boards on Voom and other satellite signals, there was always a debate on whether the satellite or STBs should be run through DVI or component, and I can tell you that at least on my monitor, the OTA HD reception through component is absolutely fantastic, and if anything, a little richer than through DVI. As for the 950, I think, but am not sure (the experts here can say for sure), that you need to run that through the DVI only. In any event, that's what I am doing, and it works great. I have thought about a switch, and if anyone has any recommendations, I'd love to know.

HLM507WFan

12-27-05, 12:57 PM

hpm123

12-27-05, 06:28 PM

My HLN617 has never done a 3 cycle start up, so it doesn't sound normal. Since you have the extended warranty, get it checked out.

Well thanks for that bit of info Gilley. My set has always done this. It's always worked too, for the most part. I did have color wheel swapped out about a year ago, due to the buzz saw sound.

Not sure if it's a difference between the set you have, and the one I have. I would be curious if any other HLN5065W onwers experience this symptom - Thanks for the followup -

Don1959

01-03-06, 01:35 PM

Sea Ray

01-03-06, 02:49 PM

I have had my HLN5065W for about 2 1/2 years now... I have had the colour wheel replaced, the ballast replaced, the power supply replaced, the ballast replaced again and is, as I write this, in the shop getting repaired again... this time the DMD board needs to be replaced.

Thank any and all gods that I took a 5 year extended warranty on this TV... the DMD board alone is about grand... Canadian.... but still a grand to me...

Anyway, even after all the above, I can't wait to get this set back... because it still looks great.... DVDs @ 720p via DVI from my Denon 3910 look almost HD. And true HD is fantastic.

Anyone else want to give a history of their HLNs?

I also bought an HLN (43") 2 1/2 years ago and I also bought the extended warranty. I've had absolutely no "malfunctions" with it at all. It was on all day yesterday and got raves from my crowd watching bowl games. I'm very pleased with it. I tweaked and adjusted colors for a long, long time but that's been my only issue. I do wish they'd come from the factory properly calibrated but that's my only complaint and a minor one at that. I thought I'd chime in since you rarely hear from cases like mine on this forum.

Kevin R. Anderson

01-03-06, 04:17 PM

I bought mine in June of 2003. The bulb popped within the first week and the set was immediately replaced by Ultimate Electronics. Since then, it has worked great with no problems. I also bought a 5 year warranty, but I'm hoping I won't have to use it.

I'm ISF trained with a colorimeter, and I've calibrated this set to death. Like any quality piece of electronic equipment, it continues even now to impress me with its performance.

I went on the Home Theater Cruise and asked Joe Kane (the creator of Digital Video Essentials) what set he has in his home. He responded it was the Samsung DLP (the next newer model from the HLN). Not surprising since he consults for Samsung, but still, the man could have any TV in his own living room, and a Samsung DLP is what he uses.

Don1959

01-03-06, 04:19 PM

Well it is really good to hear from someone who has had no problems with their HLN set... it gives me hope that mine shall behave itself now....

Gary J

01-05-06, 03:05 PM

The links to the Samsung HLN guides on the first page of this thread do not work. Does anyone know if they are still around?
http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html

zebras23

01-05-06, 08:02 PM

The links to the Samsung HLN guides on the first page of this thread do not work. Does anyone know if they are still around?
http://www.digiupdate.com/P001_Samsung_HLN_DLP_2003.html

We sadly lost Arun in bicycle accident almost two years ago. There was some talk of folks keeping them updated, but I'm not sure anyone did.

Gary J

01-05-06, 08:08 PM

I just got a cheap Panasonic DVD player and the picture looks better without using progressive scan. Is this because the DLP is scaling it and doing a better job?

cyberbri

01-05-06, 08:12 PM

I just got a cheap Panasonic DVD player and the picture looks better without using progressive scan. Is this because the DLP is scaling it and doing a better job?

Partially. Your set is also using different hard/software settings. You could go into the service menu and calibrate both so they look the same except for the i/p if you wanted. But if one looks better than the other, go with that. My father has a 61" Sony 4:3 RP-CRT, and it looks better going 480i and using the TV's Cinemotion deinterlacing (which I think maintains the 24FPS without the 24->30FPS conversion).

Don1959

01-05-06, 09:20 PM

Just a quick question... Is your father's RP-CRT a progressive display unit?... most CRTs are interlaced....

Don

rshear

01-05-06, 09:25 PM

I believe you can find the manuals here:

http://evstar.eatsleepcode.ca/HLN_Manual/

-Rob Shear

Don1959

01-05-06, 09:26 PM

Although the FLI 2310 is an older chip set, at one time it was considered to be one of the best scalers/de-interlacers on the market.... and is still very good, probably better than the one in the Pany DVD player... so the HLN, at 480i, is doing all the work... scaling and de-interlacing, and doing a better job than the pany...

Don

Gary J

01-05-06, 10:09 PM

One strange thing is with a 4x3 DVD no aspect is exactly 4x3. Wide comes closest but is slighty wider. Panorma is distorted and Normal is almost square.

On the Panasonic TV Aspect is set to 16:9.

cyberbri

01-06-06, 01:33 AM

Just a quick question... Is your father's RP-CRT a progressive display unit?... most CRTs are interlaced....

Don

It does 480i/p and 1080i, and also accepts 720p. It has a nice 16x9 enhanced mode, where instead of doing letterbox (it's 4:3), it doesn't waste any scan lines on the top and bottom and focuses them all in the middle 16:9 area.

The DVD picture looked better when I disabled progressive scan on his newer Yamaha(?) DVD changer and let the TV do the deinterlacing. It has progressive, and also a mode called Cinemotion, which the manual describes as being for film-based material, so I assume it leaves it in 24fps.

kevinsal

01-17-06, 11:38 AM

I believe you can find the manuals here:

http://evstar.eatsleepcode.ca/HLN_Manual/

-Rob Shear

wow thanks is this the official service manual? They are charging $22 for this?!

Blinded

01-17-06, 08:56 PM

Ive had myine for about 2 1/2 years. The PQ on standard TV has become bad. Not always the same but always bad. I started noticing a wavey sort of bands about 1/4 wid going diagnol from upper left to lower right. Worse when I first turn it on but then decreasing but not going away. This is only from 480i sources.

video 1 or two or antenna.

My DVD is crystal clear from the start and HD was fine. Do I have a scaling problem? My bulb also has a ton of hours on it, I haven't tried swapping it yet , I have a new one. Any sugestions?

Gary J

01-17-06, 09:29 PM

Sounds like a grounding problem.

cahoods

02-01-06, 03:32 PM

Kevin R. Anderson

02-01-06, 03:57 PM

HLM507WFan

02-01-06, 04:09 PM

Did you replace the wheel and bulb yourself? If not, shouldn't the tech come back and make it right?

Is this the first bulb you replaced (seems unlikely)?

I have a service manual for the HLN that has some pages on aligning the lens. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I will pass them along

I am not an expert, but when my color wheel was replaced, I didnt have any trouble like this. However, my lamp has yet to go bad, so would I be too far off base to suggest that this problem sounds like a lamp issue rather than a color wheel issue? And if that's what it is, then should we novices really be replacing these lamps ourselves, and should Samsung really be advertising the lamp replacement as a do it yourseklf task?

cahoods

02-01-06, 04:17 PM

I did do it myself. I think the lamp change is simple enough. The color wheel change, well, I probably should of had it done by a tech - but who knows.

It would have been very helpful when they sent me the color wheel if they also included a few pages on the basics.

I was careful, but ... I might have "nudged" something I shouldn't have.

Oh well, I may be seeing that tech after all. So much for saving a few hundred - but what an education!

vlapietra

02-01-06, 05:35 PM

I got a couple of dustballs in my HLN437.
They are only obvious when the TV is on and the screen is showing dark colors. Like the bottom letterbox area of most DVD's I watch. :(

Anyone have any tips on cleaning out dust?
I was hoping some canned air might do the trick.

UCSB

02-01-06, 05:38 PM

cahoods

02-02-06, 02:40 PM

HLN507WX/XAA
8400 HOURS

Color wheel went bad (loud whine). Replaced it and put in a new lamp.

Now the loud whining is gone BUT about 1/2 of the screen looks normal, 1/8 is lightly shaded top to bottom, and 3/8 is darkly shaded from top to bottom.

I've swapped the old color wheel back in and the same problem occurs.

I'm thinking something is not aligned correctly.

I did not remove the shielded DMD board.

Any ideas what I did wrong? or what I might do to correct the problem?

Thank you.

I figured it out! Hooray for me!

Turns out the mirror tunnel (rectangular thing the light goes into after it passes through the color wheel) was the problem. I hadn't touched that component, but decided to take it apart anyway as a last ditch attempt. I took off the holding bracket and was able to see that one of the 4 mirrors had broken off -- so the mirror tunnel no longer had four sides. When it took it out, the other sides fell apart too.

I super-glued the mirror back together - and re-assembled everyting - VOILA! Works great now (I do have to order a new Mirror Tunnel however - since my super-gluing hands were not steady enough and I've got some bad areas along the edge of the screen - but it works better than I thought it would given the fact that I had to scrape dried glue off 3 of the mirrors!

I think the mirror tunnel must have broken when I was reinstalling the plastic cover that encases the color wheel (it goes over the top of the mirror tunnel).

Another $$70 - $80 for a mirror tunnel - bbut I'm still proud I was able to avoid the service guy!

Thanks very much for your help!

Don1959

02-05-06, 03:58 PM

Glad to hear that... I, myself, would never stick my fingers in the guts of this set... it would never be the same again... :)

Don

MollyDog

02-06-06, 07:07 PM

I've had a HLN4365W now for a couple of years and I've never experienced Hi-definition with it :(

I thought I could hook up an antenna and watch the Superbowl in Hi-Def but all I received was fuzzy lo-def. I searched the archives and read my manual to confirm my hunch. This TV needs a hi-def tuner for it to process a hi-def signal, is that correct?

If so, guess I'll continue to wait for that Hi-Def Tivo...

Icarus

02-06-06, 08:34 PM

This TV needs a hi-def tuner for it to process a hi-def signal, is that correct?

Yes, that's correct. But Samsung makes a very nice hi-def tuner STB for picking up over the air hi-def signals. You can connect/watch that and still have tivo connected to your normal source, so you won't miss a thing. Also, you can check antennaweb.org for your area to see what sort of antenna you might need.

-David

Don1959

02-07-06, 12:24 AM

Texas steve

02-10-06, 07:07 PM

[QUOTE=MollyDog]I've had a HLN4365W now for a couple of years and I've never experienced Hi-definition with it :(

I thought I could hook up an antenna and watch the Superbowl in Hi-Def but all I received was fuzzy lo-def. I searched the archives and read my manual to confirm my hunch. This TV needs a hi-def tuner for it to process a hi-def signal, is that correct?

I have the HLN using Direct TV with a Samsung 360 for HD. I just changed from the 360 to Warner Cable. If you want a great deal on a 360 - ABSLOUTLEY NOTHING wrong with it (Im very annal about my equiptment) shoot me a email
syon@ev1.net

hozho

02-10-06, 07:17 PM

I thought I could hook up an antenna and watch the Superbowl in Hi-Def but all I received was fuzzy lo-def. I searched the archives and read my manual to confirm my hunch. This TV needs a hi-def tuner for it to process a hi-def signal, is that correct?Yes. You either need an HD OTA tuner or a combo HD DirecTV tuner that includes OTA capability. You can also do it with a HD cable STB but I don't know of any of those that include a tuner.

Built-in tuners didn't get included in all Samsung models until 2005 (HLR). My HLP set doesn't have one either.

Texas steve

02-10-06, 07:31 PM

Yes. You either need an HD OTA tuner or a combo HD DirecTV tuner that includes OTA capability. You can also do it with a HD cable STB but I don't know of any of those that include a tuner.

Built-in tuners didn't get included in all Samsung models until 2005 (HLR). My HLP set doesn't have one either.

mine has a bult in tuner! Hey, I just moved it to my closet two days ago! Pay for shipping+ I cant use it!

hozho

02-10-06, 08:03 PM

mine has a bult in tuner! If you have an HLN then it has a SD tuner but not a HD tuner. The HLR (2005 models) sets have both.

wnorris

02-16-06, 01:55 PM

My HLN-5065 has a problem... it has developed a flickering/flashing that is present on all inputs, even a blue "no signal" screen.

Several repair attempts have been made.. new ballast/bulb... new analog board... new DMD board... and none has solved the problem....

Has anyone had a similar problem? If so, what was done to fix the problem.

My extended warranty company is starting to get nervous.... I am now talking to the Senior Service Manager, having to convince him that there is really a problem... not just in my mind... or eyes.... I'm worried that they may start to balk....

Anyone?

Thx

Don

I am experiencing the same problems!

In December, my color wheel went out (my TV was 1.5 years old, HLN-5065). I had a Bust Buy Warranty and they sent a tech from a place called Bobby Jones Electronics to work on my set. The tech confirmed it was the color wheel (it was screaming louder than any other he had ever heard). He also wanted to replace the bulb. It took them a few weeks to get the parts (which is BS since it only takes a few days, but anyway). He also discovered another problem. Mute 1-8-2-Power does not enter my service menu. No matter what he did, it wouldn't work.

A different tech came back to install the color wheel and bulb. It took about an hour and at first everything appeared to be okay. He had no solution to the service menu problem (and apparently wasn't able to enter the service menu to reset the bulb hours). After an hour or so, my picture started to flicker. It would get brighter or darker and then return to normal brightness levels. It would just make one jump and then not do it again for awhile.

However, it progressively got worse and before weeks end, it would constantly flicker pretty severely, until the point where the image looked unstable. My wife commented that if either of us were prone to seizures, we would already be in the hospital.

I removed the access cover for the bulb and discovered two things. The technician had not screwed down the two screws that hold the bulb in place (they were 1/4" from being screwed firmly in). Also, there is a ground wire that screws to the steel plate just to the left of the bulb. This wire had been left just hanging loose (I could never find the screw, so I'm assuming the tech took it with him). I reseated the bulb and tightened the screws. I also found a metric PC case screw and reattached the ground screw (which is on the power cable that supplies the ballast).

At first I though this had fixed my problem, but about half an hour later it started flickering again. It would flicker pretty severly for 30-60 seconds and then stop. It does this about every 10 minutes. I've sort of detected a pattern to it as well. Once it stops severly flickering, there is about 5 minutes where it is fine. Then it will jump one level brighter or darker (sometimes it does this twice). Then there is about another five minutes and it will start severly flickering (sometimes it does on 30-60 second strobe, sometimes it does it two or three times).

I called back Best Buy and they sent the same repair shop again. No explanation for why they hadn't fixed the service menu (a different tech again, who couldn't get in either, making it three techs unable to access the SM). He replaced a bulb and as soon as the bulb warmed up, it started to flicker just as severely as the previous bulb. The tech said that it must be something wrong with my DVD player (which is what I was using to demo the problem). However, I showed him that the set did it on a DVD-DVI, DVD-Component, Dish Component, Dish S-Video, X-Box component, x-box s-video, and vcr composite inputs. The same flicker on all these sources. He still tried to inply that it was the fault of some of my equipment, so I put the source to DVI, and used the TV's STILL function to do a screen grab of a DVD menu. I then turned off all my other sources and the TV still flicked reproducing the image that was being held in the TV's memory. At this point he conceded that it must not be my components. We turned of DNR, DNIe, and tried different presets such as dynamic or movie, but the set exhibited flicker no matter what setting was used. The tech said the TV would have to go back to the shop.

So they finally got the TV back to the shop (after they missed two appointments and canceled three more). They supposedly diagnosed the TV and said it was the ballast and bulb. They installed a new ballast and bulb. Again, they couldn't get into the service menu, and wouldn't explain to me why they hadn't fixed that problem. They dropped off the TV and left.

Within 30 minutes (after the TV had warmed up) it started to clicker exactly as it had before, if not even worse (it will now clicker continuously, sometimes for 5-10 minutes at a time).

I called Best Buy up again to have them service the TV. I asked for a different shop, but Best Buy refused to use a different repair service because the work was supposed to be warrantied. I had an appointment to have the TV serviced again yesterday, but the tech never showed up.

I started service on 12/11 and here it is 2/16 and my TV still isn't fixed. I have a new color wheel, ballast, and have had three new bulbs in the set.

Did anyone else with the flicker problem ever discover the cause? My set was flicker free for 1.5 years until they replaced the bulb and color wheel (subsequently not screwing the bulb down or replacing the ground wire on the ballast power supply).

Kevin R. Anderson

02-16-06, 04:07 PM

wnorris

02-16-06, 04:53 PM

How much did you pay for your extended warranty? Doesn't Best Buy have the "no lemon" guarantee. If they can't fix it, then it is a "lemon" and should be replaced.

I don't want to promote warranty abuse, but people usually pay an arm-and-a-leg for extended warranties to avoid the very situation you are in. I view an extended as warranty as meaning that you are "guaranteed" a fully functioning TV for the term of such warranty. A flickering DLP is not "fully functioning."

That being said, this is the sequence I use to access the service menu:

Turn off "melody" in the user menu

Power on the set

Then power off the set and quickly hit mute, 1,8,2, and power on

The warranty does have a no lemon clause. It is a lemon on the 4th service request and replaced. However, Best Buy has treated all this as one sevice request because the orignal work was guarenteed and the new trouble started as a result of the first repair. So it technically isn't a lemon because this is all one long service request.

However, there is another stipulation that if a single repair (which is what this is considered) takes longer than 90 days, the TV is declared a lemon and also replaced. However, that will be March 12th, so I still have to keep dealing with that same place.

However, Best Buy apparently had a problem today with the same service center today, which may escalate things for me. The service center didn't show up for their appointment last night and they were supposed to reschedule with me today. They never called, so I called Best Buy. The service center put Best Buy on hold and never came back (over 15 minutes). It also sounded like the person at the repair center was giving Best Buy grief too. So the Best Buy person wrote up what happened today, added it to the other three screens worth of trouble and complaints I (and Best Buy) have had with the repair center and forwarded that to her manager. Her manager has the power to override the waiting period and delcare it a lemon right away. So hopefully they will do this so this first part of the saga can end and I can start the next round of problems with Best Buy.

The exact service sequence you reported is what we were trying (it's in the service manual, which I and the service center have). It doesn't work, even when I program it in as a macro in my Sony RMAX4000. They even tried another remote in case my original remote was faulty (even though my RMAX was programmed with the discrete hex codes, so it doesn't matter about the original remote). Myself and 4 techs were unable to access the service menu.

My next problem is that I don't consider any of the sets at Best Buy a suitable replacement. I have 4 different 720p sources in my home theatre, three connected through component inputs and one through DVI. The only other Samsung set at BB is the HLR-5067W, which only has 2 component and a HDMI, so I'm short one input. I really don't want converters from DVI-to-HDMI either. I would rather have a new DVD player with a HDMI out and a new HDMI cable. The only way around being short an input is if I use some sort of component switcher, which I don't have room for in my entertainment center. Plus, that is sort of clunky if you have to get up and push a button. And one with IR costs $150-$200 (and BB currently doesn't have one to sell).

The only other DLP sets my BB has is a RCA 50" and a Toshiba 52". Neither of these has enough inputs either and both are too wide to fit in my built-in entertainment center. The 52" is bigger and the RCA 50" has big speakers on the side that keep it from fitting. Plus I'm not a fan of the picture quality on either set, compared to the Samsung.

So, I see some potential conflict with Best Buy if my set is declared a lemon. To be happy I would need a new DVD player, HDMI cable, and preferrably a cash refund of some sort that allows me to address the lack of enough component inputs. I just bought this set 18 months ago and paid $3600+tax. I'm not going to be a happy camper if I forced to take a set that doesn't meet all my input requirements, or if I'm forced to downsize to a smaller screen to get a set that meets all my input requirements.

I'll worry about all that when it happens though. If they just give me $3600+tax on a BB gift card, I'll be happy with that too because I can wait till the HLS series comes out, which should work for me (or if BB would special order a new 1080p HLR, which also has enough inputs because they have two HDMI's).

hozho

02-16-06, 05:10 PM

I really don't want converters from DVI-to-HDMI either.
This isn't relevant to your overall situation, but there is no video difference between HDMI and DVI.

An HDMI cable with DVI on one end works exactly the same for video as a HDMI to HDMI cable. For mechanical reasons I wouldn't want to add a DVI/HDMI converter to the end of a DVI cable either.

Your warranty probably refers to "comparable" and for that reason BB may not be willing to refund your full purchase price since "comperalble" is so much cheaper now.

You might maintain that wobulated DLP chips in the current sets are not comparable to your 1280x720 mirrors non-wobulated DLP chip. :)

Don1959

02-17-06, 03:37 AM

I am experiencing the same problems!
.

Just to let you know that my set is being replaced under extended warranty...

The Tech guy who worked on my set was pretty good... he seemed to really know what he was doing.... He had my set in his shop and systematically replace all the main boards and components .. bulb, ballast, analog board, digital board and DMD board... nothing solved the problem.. he raised the problem to Samsung Tech Support... their last try answer was to replace the light engine... at this point the warranty company threw in the towel......

Now I find myself in a situation similar to what you described.... I was happy with my HLN-5065... not really thinking about a new set... thought I was good for a few years yet...

The only dealer that the warranty co. has around me sells Toshiba only... have not had much of a chance to see them in person... specs seem ok, but the donkey ears (speakers) on the set (52MHX85) make it just too wide... over a foot wider than the 5065.... I'll have to see how much cash I can get....

BTW the HL-R5067 has a HDMI and a DVI input along with the 2 components... they look pretty, but to me, they seem not as well built ... not as solid...

I hope they can fix your set, then you can just go back to enjoying it... if not, hope you get a good new one.

Don

wnorris

02-20-06, 11:46 AM

Just to let you know that my set is being replaced under extended warranty...

The Tech guy who worked on my set was pretty good... he seemed to really know what he was doing.... He had my set in his shop and systematically replace all the main boards and components .. bulb, ballast, analog board, digital board and DMD board... nothing solved the problem.. he raised the problem to Samsung Tech Support... their last try answer was to replace the light engine... at this point the warranty company threw in the towel......

Now I find myself in a situation similar to what you described.... I was happy with my HLN-5065... not really thinking about a new set... thought I was good for a few years yet...

The only dealer that the warranty co. has around me sells Toshiba only... have not had much of a chance to see them in person... specs seem ok, but the donkey ears (speakers) on the set (52MHX85) make it just too wide... over a foot wider than the 5065.... I'll have to see how much cash I can get....

BTW the HL-R5067 has a HDMI and a DVI input along with the 2 components... they look pretty, but to me, they seem not as well built ... not as solid...

I hope they can fix your set, then you can just go back to enjoying it... if not, hope you get a good new one.

Don

It only has DVI RCA inputs, not an actual DVI input. You use them when you convert DVI to HDMI.

Don1959

02-20-06, 12:36 PM

It only has DVI RCA inputs, not an actual DVI input. You use them when you convert DVI to HDMI.

After looking at the manual ... you are correct.... only an RCA audio input for when you use a a DVI to HDMI adapter......

So you only get 3 HD capable inputs..... not great.....

You must the last version of the HLN-5065... the W1 version.... that has 3 component inputs that take 480i/480p/720p/1080i.... mine has 1 that takes 480i/480p and 2 that take 480p/720p/1080i........ and 1 DVI for 3 HD inputs.....

Anyway I am not interested in the xx67 series... they seem to have a lot of problems... audio sync.... pincushion on 4:3 source.... going to try to hang on until the 2006 units hit the street... hoping that Samsung fixes some of the problems... and they will cost less too....

Don

wnorris

02-20-06, 04:56 PM

This whole thing is turning into a huge debacle. After Bobby Jones Electronics failed to show up last Wednesday, no one called me back to reschedule. I called Best Buy Thursday afternoon and they got put on hold and Bobby Jones never returned, so BB hung up. Best Buy was supposed to call me back on Friday to schedule a new time, but no one ever called.

I called back again today, and they told me that their records show several attempts to contact Bobby Jones on Friday, but they were always put on hold or received a busy signal. Today they tried for 10 minutes while I waited and got nothing but busy signals.

So I just called back again, and they still could only get a busy signal. I asked how it was going on getting the set declared a lemon. They said that my request had been denied. I asked if Best Buy would schedule the service with a different repair shop, and they refused (after speaking with a supervisor) saying it had to be the original shop thet performed the first service.

So Best Buy won't declare the set a lemon, and Best Buy refuses to switch to a repair shop that will actually keep their scheduled appointment (or even contact me to schedule an appointment for that matter). So I'm just supposed to sit here with a broken TV and wait until March 12 when 90 days will be up and they have to declare the TV a lemon because of their policy.

In the meantime, the problem has gotten worse and it spends more time flcikering than not flickering now.

I originally hadn't put the blame on Best Buy. They can't help it if they stumple on a deadbeat repair shop. However, I am quickly starting to feel that Best Buy equally shares the blame because they refuse to do anything about the problem other than make me wait 90 days with a broken TV.

I never liked Circuit City much, but that may be where I start doing alot of my shopping in the near future.

laggerific

02-21-06, 02:06 AM

I hope this doesn't become the case with my HLN5065W...the color wheel went bad and the guy decided to replace the entire engine. So when I got it, part of the screen was slightly out of focus...it made reading the screen mess with my eyes. The second tech said it was a bad engine, so I got a brand Samsung new one and now my entire screen is out of focus...in focus enough for them not to notice on first glance...but I know how it looked on the original engine...pixel perfect, that is not the state it is in after two engine replacements...also, now none of the buttons on the TV work...I'm guessing he just didn't reconnect it, but it's unfortunate. Oh yeah, and the screen is slightly tilted...

All of this could have been diverted with just a color wheel replacement...I certainly appreciate the new engine, I guess...I just want my TV to work again. I thankfully have a fairly competent service company to deal with, I just hope they don't ignore the fact that the picture hasn't been the same since the engine was replaced.

cyberbri

02-21-06, 01:06 PM

I think the focus issue may have to do with the placement of the light engine within the set. When I had a LE replaced (to fix a noisy color wheel and fan), the image was far off to the left. I made the tech get in and fix the placement, and then we used the service menu to re-center the image. The right edge is still blurry for about 3-4", but it's not noticeable unless I'm using my HTPC and reading text at the edge.

One thing I don't like about light engine replacement, though, is that you have to re-calibrate. When my LE was replaced, I noticed that the shadows in red areas appeared purple. I had to recalibrate my inputs because of the slight difference in light engines.

Kevin R. Anderson

02-21-06, 01:19 PM

The service manual contains a explanation of how important it is that the color wheel board be carefully aligned upon reinstallation so that focus and geometry remain true. If anyone wants a PDF copy of the relevant sections of the service manual on how to go about this, PM me with your e-mail address (the file is large, so make sure your e-mail server can handle it).

wnorris

02-23-06, 03:06 PM

Well, it only took a week with me calling Best Buy twice per day (all they way up to corporate, which is when I got some results), but I finally got them to harrass BJE and get me another service appointment. They are supposed to be there tomorrow evening between 5-8 pm.

Naturally, I'm skeptical that they will actually show up. Last Wednesday was the 6th scheduled appointment (out of 10) that they missed. Also, the same guy is supposed to be coming that was coming last Wednesday. So he couldn't make it on on Wednesday evening, but I'm supposed to believe he will be there on a Friday night. I expect a call at about 7:30 pm from a bar somewhere telling me he is "tied up". Either that, or he will walk in the door, say there isn't anything he can do in the field, and I'll have to get an appointment for a pick-up and in shop service (which is basically what the last tech did).

I think this experience is making me cynical.

wnorris

02-25-06, 02:17 AM

All right, earlier today a BB corporate rep called to confirm that a tech would be there (he was looking into it personally). He informed me they would be performing a light engine swap. He said he would call back Monday to see how things went, if the set wasn't repaired at that time, BB would call it a lemon.

Well, the tech did show up (actually the owner/manager of the service center). He did the light engine swap. It was a different engine than what I had (uses the Phillips bulb and ballast instead of the Toshiba), but the changes were minor (different cable routing too). Apparently Samsung has streamlined their replacement engines to one manufacturer (I guess Phillips was more reliable or cheaper).

Anyway, the light engine swap was quick. However, he could not enter the service menu as previously noted by the three other techs (and myself). There was a service bulletin that said sets manufactured after mine (actually after the first 176 HLN-5065W's) used Mute-1-8-3-Power instead of 1-8-2. It was an addendum to the service manual. He tried that, it didn't work either. He said it would need a new digital board. However, the flicker and strobing appear to be gone (none in the past 3 hours at least).

There was also another problem, the picture is off-center and tilted. The bar on a 2:35 letterbox film has a 2" black bar on one side and a 2.75" bar on the other; the picture runs downhill. Watching 4:3 material results in a 2.5" bar on one side and a 3.5" bar on the other (and its titlted). He said that could be fixed, but he didn't have the equipment (pattern generator) with him to do it. Plus, if he was going to take everything apart to change the digital board, it would make more sense to adjust it then (the DMD is behind the digital board).

Now I have a conundrum. I can tell the BB rep at corporate that the set still isn't completely fixed and requires more parts. This would result in the set being declared a lemon. I could then get newer technology, but I know it is going to be a hassle to get what I want (either I have to wait for the HLS series in April/May, get BB to special order a HLR 1080p set, try to get them to give me 100% credit on a BB gift card to later purchase a HLS set, or get a cash refund and go elsewhere) and this process will drag on.

Or I can let the tech perform the adjustment and replace the digital board. Everything in the set will then be new except the power supply module and the analog board. He says that if he has the digital board in stock, my set will be fixed no later than Wednesday. If he has to order it, Friday. This might not be so bad if it fixes the set. The PSP would still have 2 years left on it, which is plenty of time for something else to go wrong. If that did happen, it would be the 4th repair and the set would be a lemon anyway and by then the HLS (or maybe HLT) sets would be available and then I could exchange.

Right now I'm leaning towards finishing the repair because I am happy with the set. Plus I can imagine the hassle of getting what I want with a no lemon exchange. This is all contingent on believing that they will act quickly and not jerk me around as they have in the past few months. It sounds like several people have been fired and that the service center is trying to correct the poor service situation (I guess that is what happens if BB hints at pulling their service contract with you, which is what I feel has happened).

Not sure what to do... I'm going to think on it.

Sea Ray

02-25-06, 08:12 AM

wnorris

02-25-06, 09:49 AM

I'd suggest getting a new set. Go the lemon route. You've screwed around with this long enough. If you have to wait a month, so be it. There's no telling if your set will be 100% fixed in a month. You've been more than patient. Tell BB they've bought themselves your set. and you're accepting their offer of a new one under their lemon rules. When can they deliver it?

In April or May, like I said in my previous posts, Best Buy doesn't have another TV that I want. They are clearancing last years models, so it would be an April/May timeframe before they are stocking a set I would want.

From my past experience, BB isn't going to be willing to cooperate on waiting till this time frame. They most likely will tell me to take one of last years models or leave it, which means the fighting and waiting would still drag on.

Sea Ray

02-25-06, 10:33 AM

In April or May, like I said in my previous posts, Best Buy doesn't have another TV that I want. They are clearancing last years models, so it would be an April/May timeframe before they are stocking a set I would want.

From my past experience, BB isn't going to be willing to cooperate on waiting till this time frame. They most likely will tell me to take one of last years models or leave it, which means the fighting and waiting would still drag on.

Do you think you can get your money back from them? When you say last year's model is that the one they're working on now or is that older?

wnorris

02-26-06, 05:00 PM

Do you think you can get your money back from them? When you say last year's model is that the one they're working on now or is that older?

Samsung's original DLP's were HLM models. Mine is a second generation HLN. 3rd gen was HLP. Last years models are HLR and the new ones arriving in April are HLS models.

The HLR models are the ones that BB has priced reduced to make room for the HLS models.

Sea Ray

02-26-06, 10:11 PM

Samsung's original DLP's were HLM models. Mine is a second generation HLN. 3rd gen was HLP. Last years models are HLR and the new ones arriving in April are HLS models.

The HLR models are the ones that BB has priced reduced to make room for the HLS models.

OK, so your choice is to:

1) Let them continue to work on fixing your HLN

2) Have them replace it with an HLR

3) Wait until they get the HLS model in

It seems to me you are ahead of the game if you choose either option two or three. Both of these will give you an upgraded version of what you currently have. The issue is whether you want the HLS badly enough to wait for it.

Am I understanding this correctly?

hozho

02-27-06, 12:54 AM

OK, so your choice is to:

1) Let them continue to work on fixing your HLN

2) Have them replace it with an HLR

3) Wait until they get the HLS model in

It seems to me you are ahead of the game if you choose either option two or three. Both of these will give you an upgraded version of what you currently have. The issue is whether you want the HLS badly enough to wait for it.

Am I understanding this correctly?In order to do #3 he will probably have to do #1 until BB runs out of HLR sets.

wnorris

02-27-06, 09:19 AM

I'm not ahead with option two. I need either 3 component and 1 digital input or 2 digital and 2 component. An HLR-5067 only has 1 digital and 2 component. So with an HLR, I couldn't even connect all my devices to the TV. So an HLR isn't even an acceptable replacement in my mind.

That leaves option 1 and 3, but Best Buy isn't giving me the option to do number 3 (because Samsung still hasn't finalized a release date and BB has no idea when they might actually be stocking the HLS models, even though they are already price reducing HLR's to move excessive inventory). I have to do option 1 or 2 according to them. Since option 2 isn't acceptable to me, I'm only left with option 1, which I guess is the option I will pursue.

I've proposed an option 2b which is an exchange for an HL-R5078, which has all the correct inputs and retails for less than what I paid for my set. However, the problem with this is that Best Buy doesn't stock it and it isn't available on the website. However, my Best Buy recently got a Magnolia AV center. According to the sales person I spoke with, they can special order any TV currently offered by Samsung.

So that is what BB is looking into now and I consider that a reasonable deal. Order the TV and then exchange it. Or credit me with a BB gift card, let me order the TV and then pay with the gift card when it arrives.

wnorris

02-27-06, 04:17 PM

Well, new developments...

The BB corporate guy says Best Buy would prefer I replace the set (the replacement paper work is supposed to be completed by Thursday). I explained my reservations about an exchange and he was very understanding. I told him about the situation with not having the correct inputs, fitting in my entertainment center, etc. and he understood that. I asked if I would be able to get the HL-R5078W ($3200) instead of a HL-R5067W ($2300). He said that wouldn't be a problem (since either was cheaper than my original purchase price) as long as BB had it in stock or could special order it. After I got off the phone with him, I called the store to check and spoke with a sales clerk who answered the phone.

They have two in the warehouse and I could have it in two days if I ordered today. I explained that this would be an exchange under a PSP plan and that the paperwork wouldn't be finalized till around Thursday. They asked what TV I had and I told them. The immediately said I couldn't exchange my set for the HL-R5078W, and that I would have to get a HL-R5067W. The said the 5078 isn't a comparable set. I would have to pay the difference to get the 5078 ($900!!!).

The corporate guy is supposed to call me Thursday. I'm going to leave it to him to straighten this all out. If they can't give me a 5078 then I'll just have mine repaired. And I'm not going to play "he said, she said" between the local store and corporate headquarters.

Gary J

02-27-06, 04:22 PM

You did not use the name and number of the corporate guy as reference?

wnorris

02-27-06, 04:41 PM

You did not use the name and number of the corporate guy as reference?

Once the paperwork is complete and approved, I plan on asking the corporate guy to actually call the BB store in advance of my arrival so the manager and corporate can be on the same page and any disagreements resolved before I get to the store. In this case, giving this info to a sales guy probably wouldn't matter anyway (I was really just calling to check the stock status and delivery time).

Then I'm going to take a half-day off work on a day the corporate guy tells me he'll be in the office. Then I'll go to the store to do the exchange. If there are any problems, they can call the corporate guy.

BB corporate has been really helpful and apologetic about the whole situation. He agrees that 79 days has been way to long for this repair to drag out. It's just a shame that it had to be escalated to a corporate level to get this kind of service.

holemania

02-28-06, 09:25 AM

hello all,

i've been out of the loop for awhile, but here's an issue i've noticed recently...

i have the hln5065w (T-B3k6101-306).

while viewing on component 2 or 3 (720p), when i first power on the tv, my picture (i.e. channel guide grid, etc.) is hazy or dim.

if i press "tv/video" and choose another input (i.e. antenna, or s-video) and then return to component 2 or 3 input, then my picture is no longer dim or hazy....it's now nice, bright and crisp ( i specifically use my directv on-screen guide to look at blue background and white text to be consistent).

everything is fine until i turn off the set and then power on again...then component 2/3 viewing is dim/hazy again until i toggle the input to something else and then back again...then it's fine again.

i have tried 2 different sources (hd-stb and dvd player) to component 2/3 and the result is the same, so it's not my source.

i have not tried my alternate lamp yet, but something tells me it's not the lamp...there's something about toggling the input that resolves the situation, so i presume it's in the lamp control circuitry...

has anyone else seen or heard of this phenomenon?

i have service coverage on the dlp tv, but am wary of having bb service practice their craft on my set...

on one hand, it seems to be a minor problem since i have a work-around...

but, on the other hand, i spent alot of $ on this set and want it to work correctly!

any thoughts, feedback appreciated...

cyberbri

02-28-06, 12:17 PM

Does it happen when you power up with it on another input? Does it get better if you leave it on the component inputs and not change inputs?
I know it takes a short while (maybe 5-10 seconds) for the lamp to get from dim to full brightness, so it could be that between the time when the screen looks dim, and you switch inputs, the lamp powers up all the way.

holemania

02-28-06, 04:06 PM

i have determined that there is a threshold in the S_CT adjustment in the DNIe menu...

if i set it from 0-150, my setting remains once i exit the service menu.

if i set if from 151-255, my setting remains while in the service menu....but, once i turn the set off and back on, i must toggle the input from component 2/3 and then back again for the contrast setting to return to what i had set in the service menu...

have never seen this occur before...interesting...

wnorris

03-01-06, 11:43 AM

Sea Ray

03-01-06, 11:53 AM

laggerific

03-01-06, 12:19 PM

I have a tech coming out today to hopefully fix the focus and tilting issue, along with the non-functioning butons that I got when the last tech was out...and the dust that is now on my screen that wasn't there before the last tech was out.

I'm glad it is under warranty, but sometimes I think it might be better to pay the tech, because at least then you don't have the back and forth between the tech and the warranty service operators. What I don't like ot hear from the tech when I say that the screen is out of focus "well...we'll see what we can do". I'll tell you what you can do...you can adjust the focus...it's technically possible to do, so why are you acting so reluctant to fix a problem that you created. The machine worked awesome before they decided to replace the engine to fix the noisy color wheel issue. I appreciate the new engine and bulb that it provides, but my TV hasn't worked as well as it used since they replaced the engine several times.

EDIT:

So, a tech came out today and once again said that the he couldn't adjust the focus issue here, that it's something that is done at the factory...so he is ordering a third DLP engine. The bad thing is that is one more time someone is going to have to come to the house...the good thing is that if that DLP engine doesn't fix the problem, they will be replacing my TV. I am not looking forward to dealing with setting up a new TV, but perhaps it will be for the best. The sad thing is that all the parts they have ordered, all the engines they have replaced will ultimately cost more than the TV they will most likely replace this with. Any ideas what they would replace an HLN5065W with? I would like to get an idea about what specs it will have, such as inputs and what not (I really don't want to lose my VGA and DVI ports). I really don't expect one more DLP to magically work, but perhaps it is possible...we shall see.

laggerific

03-01-06, 12:20 PM

Maybe a newer board is better? I don't know, but given your situation I still would go with a new set of some sort. If you weren't under warranty, I don't know. I think we can extend these warranties with BB when they expire. I'll look into that in a couple years when mine expires

Yes...Best Buy does allow one to extend the warranty...but I would be proactive about that and not rely on them getting in touch with you when it is about to expire.

laggerific

03-01-06, 12:25 PM

Another update...

The service center got in touch with me today. The reason for their delay was that they could not order a replacement digital board for my HL-N5065W. Samsung no longer has this replacement part available (be warned all you Samsung HLN owners).

Samsung proposed some kind of workaround where they use a newer digital board, combined with a newer analog board, on the existing light engine. So my repaired TV would be some kind of morphed hybrid once it was repaired. I'm not sure if it would even have the same inputs (the HLP and HLR models have different inputs on the analog board). The repair would cost BB another $800 for parts, plus labor.

They claim this is the only alternative Samsung is giving them for repair. Now I'm not even happy with my option 1 of having the set repaired. It sounds like it would be some kind of Frankenstein set. Imagine if the set breaks after the extended warranty, what a nightmare it would be to get repaired (they would probably charge me $200 just to listen to the explanation of all the non-standard parts and repairs).

Hopefully BB comes through with a HL-R5078W as corporate suggested they could.

Why would BB even accept that plan of action...it sounds like it would cost them more in the long run if the TV required more repair. Wow...extended warranties sure aren't the silver bullets they make them out to be...I mean, we are all told to be cynical of them, but when one needs their equipment repaired, its nice to know that it will get the warranty some use, but it almost seems like the stores can hardly keep their end of the bargain.

Anyway...if corporate had some say, why wouldn't the stores follow their suggestions? Ah...I wonder if that is what they will replace my HL-N5065W with. I like the look of it, but really, I just want a tv with sharp pixels...although, now that I am so close to the 4th replacement, I will prolly be bummed if the final DLP engine fixes the issue. But only minorly...I'm really just amazed that I have received two DLP engines already that are bad. Is it that common to not be able to happen upon a DLP engine that slips in perfectly as a replacement without need for adjustment?

THX1138-2

03-05-06, 04:50 PM

I have a HLN467W from when they first were released. I'm not sure how many years it has been.. maybe three.

About 2 months ago, the DLP would just freeze up. The power light would be on, but it would not respond to remote commands. Also, the image on the screen would look like a digitized still picture of whatever was last being viewed. The only way to get the TV to respond or work is to unplug it from the power outlet, wait a few minutes, and plug it back in...

In the last week or so, this has occurred more and more. Just today alone, the set has froze up at least three times.

I've taken a couple of pictures of the image left on the screen.

Anyone know what is happening here? Thanks!

Don1959

03-05-06, 10:10 PM

wnorris

03-07-06, 01:39 PM

Another update...

Well, after Best Buy approved me for a replacement, they have apparently misplaced the paper work. I was told on Friday that everything was squared away and the store had the paperwork. I drove 90 miles on Saturday to do the exchange. When I arrived at the store, they said they had no paperwork (after making me wait 20+ minutes while they looked for it). They said all the paperwork arrives by e-mail and they hadn't received mine yet. The told me to check back Monday by phone.

I called in Monday and they had no paperwork and they told me to call today. I called at lunch and was told they had no paperwork. They said they would have had it by now, and I should call 1-888-BB to see what was going on. I called them and they said their records showed it was sent to the store already and they couldn't send it again. It had to be found. They instructed me to call the store manager.

I called the store back and spoke with the manager. He had no idea what I was talking about and said he didn't have any paperwork. He was puzzled by why the hotline would tell me to call him. He said he would pass it on for someone to look up (probably the same guy who looked it up 30 minutes before) and someone would call me back.

My corporate contact is out for lunch, but as soon as he returns, I'll be giving him a call to find out what is going on.

It's been 86 days now and still no functioning set. I thought the issue would be resolved by weeks end, but that is looking impossible now (takes them 5 days to get the set from the warehouse to the store once it's ordered; and they won't order until they have my paper work).

Gary J

03-07-06, 01:52 PM

Time to throw out the words Consumer Protection Agency.

Sea Ray

03-07-06, 03:35 PM

Such is life dealing with corporate bureaucracies. Be persistent and get names to pass around (like so and so told me the paperwork was sent) and just tell youself this is life when dealing with businesses as big as BB. When you talk to your corporate contact ask him specifically how to proceed and give him deadlines, like OK, if I don't hear from so and so by the end of the day who do I call?

Thanks for keeping us posted. Those of us with BB warranties are taking notes...

wnorris

03-07-06, 10:24 PM

Well, I got in touch with the corporate contact. He reaffirmed that the paperwork was sent to the store last Friday (so I could have done the exchange when I made a trip on Saturday). He sent it again, and copied me on it this time. He told me I could immediately go to BB. He told me to print a copy and take with me, just in case it was misplaced again. If there were any problems just have the store call him.

So I left immediately (the TV was already loaded from my previous trip on Saturday) on my 90 mile drive to BB. I arrived and went to the service desk. I waited in line with a few other people in front of me. When it was my turn, I explained to the girl that I had a 50" lemon set I needed to exchange. She said that they didn't do that at the return counter and that I needed to go to the Magnolia (store within the store). This was the first I heard of that.

So I went to the Magnolia and waited a few minutes. I explained again what was going on and they told me I needed to be at the service desk! I explained that I had already been there and was sent here. They said the service desk was supposed to do it, but they were being lazy. They agreed to wait on me though so I wouldn't have to wait in line again.

Anyway, the girl tried to look-up my return, but couldn't find it. She said I would have to come back when the paper work was transferred. I explained that it had just been transferred today (and Friday) and provided her with my copy that was cc'd me. She showed it to her manager and he couldn't find their electronic copy either. The confirmed that my copy was legit and made a copy for themselves to use.

They told me to pick out a TV from their showroom and I told them it would have to be ordered. I provided them with the model # (HLR5078) and they looked it up on the PC. The sales girl told me she didn't think I could get that as a replacement (I knew this was coming) because it was a more advanced set than my previous set and wasn't a comparable swap. I couldn't swap a 720p for a 1080p. They told me I would have to take the 5067 ($2300) or similar. I asked her to show me another set that was less than 48" wide, had a 50" or bigger screen, was DLP of LCoS, and had three 720p and one 480p inputs (plus VGA for a PC). Naturally, she couldn't (there are only two sets manufactured to meet these criteria in either 720p or 1080p sets and BB doesn't carry the other).

I explained that this particular set had already been approved by corporate. She told me that it hadn't been (even though she knew nothing of the extents I've went through). I told her to call my contact at corporate, a senior executive resolutions specialist, and he could confirm. She said she had to speak with her manager. Her manager was reluctant to do the exchange, but I said I wasn't going to argue about it; just call the number. After a minute or two, he agreed to give me the set I wanted without calling the number.

The set was ordered and is supposed to arrive on Saturday. Hopefully all else goes well. I just pray that I don't get a dud! :eek:

For those wondering, BB didn't give me the difference in price either. I paid $3600+tax for the HLN and the HLR was $3200+tax. They treated it as an even swap, which is what I expected. In 1997, I had a DVD player with a PSP that was deemed unrepairable (no spare parts). I paid $700 for the player and the replacement player (a much better player BTW) was $500. They told me to get $200 more in merchandise to cover the difference. They didn't do that this time (I was hoping though)!

Gary J

03-08-06, 07:18 AM

Good but you're not done until you get your hot little hands on that TV.

HLM507WFan

03-08-06, 10:47 AM

Gary is exactly right -- keep us posted, and good luck!

vlapietra

03-08-06, 03:49 PM

Wow. This story is better than a soap opera. I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for the next installment. I need some popcorn. :p

Seriously, though, good luck with the new set. I hope it works out, and keep us posted! :)

KSUJace

03-08-06, 09:28 PM

I have HLN467W and the picture is going black, audio remains while watching DirecTV via DVI connection. The same happens w/ the Comp connection while watching a DVD.

If I power the TV on/off the green light blinks for awhile, then the picture will return.

Is this an indication my lamp is going?

laggerific

03-09-06, 02:48 AM

wnorris

03-09-06, 09:53 AM

wnorris,

Am I understanding correct that you managed to get a 1080p swapped with your 720p machine? I am close to getting a lemon...if the 4th DLP engine doesn't fix the system. I was hoping, if it comes to that, that they would let me swap it out for a 1080p system if I paid the difference. I would be okay with that...I just figure, if I have to swap out the TV, I might as well make the best of it... I was able to do that with a monitor a number of years ago.

And I also need a VGA port, for the 360...I use the DVI for the PC.

Yes. They let me swap a 720p set for a 1080p set. It was an even exchange. I would try for that. You may need to contact corporate headquartes and lodge a complaint with the customer relations department, just to have a higher up on your side. The store didn't want to do it as an even exchange.

Naturally, you will need to have some reason to lodge a complaint besides something on the manufacturing end of the set or parts. I did have some special circumstances with my exchange (no properly working TV for 80+ days, and poor repair center that broke the TV to begin with, and 6 missed service appointments where I waited 3+ hours each time for a service person). So I think I may have been given some extra consideration because they so horribly dropped the ball trying to service my set. I had a six page (single space, 10 pt font) log of all the problems I had with the service center and BB.

Keeping a log of everything as it happens is your best ammunition in this circumstance. Instead of being, "well this happened around this time, and then this happened a little later, and oh yeah, this thing happened first...", you have an actually chronological log of every event that occurred, the day and time it occurred, who you spoke with, and what transpired. And when someone at BB is looking at both sides of the story and yours looks like evidence and the repair shop is "I think this happened around this time...", you come off looking much better.

So that is my first piece of advice for anyone getting their electronics serviced. Keep a log of everything that happens as it happens. If if you think it is a trivial repair (mine started off as a simple color wheel replacement), start a log and maintain it until the repair is completed.

A10Fan

03-09-06, 12:29 PM

Having a Sony technician come in and fix the on-off problem that they sent me a letter about. Hope it doesn't mess anything up!

laggerific

03-09-06, 07:03 PM

I'm not that concerned about a 1:1 exchange (that is, 720p for 1080p)...while my experience has been exasperating, it was no where near what you had to deal with. The first technicians insistence on swapping the DLP engine instead of just the color wheel is what started the path towards a lemon TV, but at this point I have just received what should be the final DLP engine today...and on Tuesday I should know if have a lemon. Depending on the cost differential I may just stick with what they have for a 1:1 exchange. Any idea how much the HL-R5078W costs? I can't find it on Best Buys site.

dmevid

03-11-06, 01:55 AM

I own a Samsung HLN-5065W. I turned on the set today and I received an message on the screen that said, "Check the fan No.2". My timer and temp light are blinking. Anybody know what is wrong?

thanks..

Kevin R. Anderson

03-11-06, 11:40 AM

Your fan no. 2 is not spinning. Don't turn on your set until you get someone out to look at or replace fan no. 2. If you are adventuresome, you could try to locate the problem fan and see if by touching the fan blade you can get it spinning again (sometimes dust will clog the fan enough to keep it spinning.

dmevid

03-11-06, 12:17 PM

Do you know what part number fan#2 is? I ordered a service manual last night from Samsung Parts. I can hear the fan working where the bulb is. I just don't know how many fans are in the unit and where they are located. Can you help me?

dmevid

03-11-06, 12:28 PM

How do I know how many hours are on my bulb? I have a Samsung HLN-5065W.

What is the procedure?

thanks,

Kevin R. Anderson

03-11-06, 01:38 PM

There are only two fans on the 50" One of them is located in the proximity of the colorwheel. I don't have access right now to my service manual, or I could check exactly where the second one is located, but it will be in that general area.

wnorris

03-13-06, 11:07 AM

Alright, I finally got my 1080p HL-R5078W. It took them a half hour to find it when I went to pick it up (I was sure they were going to tell me they lost it and it would take another week). But other than that, the rest of the exchange went smoothly.

Overall I'm very impressed with the TV. I had to do some tweaking on the set because the factory settings are just too "hot" (was causing serious eye strain). Once things were adjusted correctly, I put the set through its paces.

First, HD content looks very noticably better on the 1080p set vs. my 720p set. I had watched Madagascar in HD on the 720p and I watched it again Saturday on the new set. Hands down the picture was much better. I noticed almost no digital artifacts throughout the movie and it really did almost look 3-D. It was probably the best HD picture I've ever seen on any set! HDNet shows like A Minute With Stan Hopper and Greg the Bunny were also noticably better and more life like. I also watched the Kid Rock Sound Off With Matt Pinfield. The picture here was also much better, even though I noticed several instances of edge enhancement artifacts on background objects (usually the same objects since there are really just a few camera angles). I don't know if this was the set, my Dish box, or the content.

I don't think SD content looks quite as good. I definately noticed more digital artifacts on the SD content than with the previous 720p set. I guess that was to be expected since the 1080p set must create so many extra pixels. A SD signal consists of ~338,000 pixels, an ED signal consists of ~409,000 pixels, a 720p HD set has ~778,000 pixels, and a 1080p set has 2,052,000 pixels. A Dish signal is compressed further, and I'm not convinced that you even get a full qulaity SD signal (an ED quality picture is the same as a progressive scan DVD, which can look pretty darn good upconverted; you would think SD could also look excellent).

So when you have a SD signal on a 720p set, the set is guessing at 240,000 of those pixels. Errors result in pixelization. On a 1080p set, the set is guess at 1,714,000 pixels. This is over 7x the calculated guess work being done by a 1080p set, so a few more digital artifacts in SD content is to be expected. I would say there is 10% more visible artifacts on a SD signal. It's not so bad as to be unwatchable, but it is noticable. I give my old 720p set the slight edge on SD content.

Now I had also purchased a Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player (HDMI out) to replace my old Samsung HD-931 DVD player (DVI out) when I picked up my set. However, I took the Sony player back to BB. It had the black bar/vertical shift problem and I wasn't going to live with that. Further, the Sony picture quality wasn't hands-down better than my old player. The Sony had slightly better blacks, but at 1080i or 720p, it had more digital artifacts (edge enhancement, digital noise, etc.) than the Samsung. On both players, the picture seemed to be better when fed as a 1080i signal (seemed to result in the fewest artifacts). The colors both appeared to be equal, at least to my eyes. I did like that the Sony signal automatically resized to fit 4:3 and 16:9 material. A bug in the Samsung means I have to manually switch using the TV remote. Gradient color changes also seemed smoother on the older Samsung than the Sony. The Sonyt remote was also much too sensative making it harder to navigate a disc. The Sony did have a much better picture quality via component outputs compared to the HD-931. However, I only use the digital outputs for normal viewing, so that doesn't really factor for me. I only use the component for my PIP signal (which when reduced to that small a size, you can't really tell a difference in the two).

Even if the Sony set hadn't suffered from the vertical shift problem. I'm not sure I would have kept it. Even though the Samsung can't pass blacker-than-black, only has 10-bit video processing compared to Sony's 12-bit, and can't correctly output 4:3 material, I still think the Samsung produces an overall better picture. To me minimal digital artifacts and smoother gradients make up for the lack of BTB. The 4:3 issue can be corrected using the TV, even though it becomes manual instead of automatic.

Upconverted DVD's from my Samsung HD-931 looked better on the new set than on my old 720p HLN. The difference was obvious. So in this regard, I give the new 1080p set the nod.

Having seen how much better HD content looks on 1080p compared to 720p, and given the fact there are few quality upconverting DVD players on the market, I've decided to just wait for the HD-DVD players to hit the market.

So overall, the 1080p set is clearly better at reproducing a HD signal and at displaying 1080i upconverted DVD's. The HLN 720p set was slighly better at handling SD content from Dish. But overall, I'm very happy with my replacement. This is how it should be since I picked up my new set exactly 90 days after having started my initial service on my old HLN set.

HLM507WFan

03-13-06, 12:28 PM

Congratulations! Heck of a story, and I'm glad this all worked out in the end!

dmevid

03-13-06, 07:36 PM

wnorris

03-13-06, 10:42 PM

Had a technician out today to fix my HLN5065W with the #2 fan not working. All fans are working...So, its the Digital PCB board..I am waiting for the repair guy to call me with the cost....I hope it does not cost a arm and a leg!

Actually, the digital board is the part that I was told was not available any more for the HLN-5065W. Samsung was going to create a custom solution by using a newer digital board. To do this they had to replace the analog board too (it mates to the new digital board). The two parts were $800.

Hopefully your repair guy is competent enough that he can do a board level repair and not just swap boards. If not make sure you give them your right leg and left arm. That way you can still use a crutch to get around...

laggerific

03-14-06, 01:46 AM

I have a tech coming tomorrow...we'll see if third times the charm with a 4th engine.

Luck was not there today...the 4th engine, while better than the last, still was out of focus in the corner...and it's tilted...so, it appears I have a lemon. So frustrating...but I guess since it is to be replaced, I can't complain too much, I just wonder how long that will take.

I am thinking about seeing if I can get an upgrade to the HLR5078W and pay the difference. I don't see that TV on Best Buys website, yet I saw that wnorris managed to get one of those models...

wnorris...did they have to order that special, or are stores different than their online site?

wnorris

03-15-06, 09:22 AM

laggerific

03-15-06, 08:40 PM

You need to go to a Best Buy with a Magnolia Home Theatre in the store.

Hmm...so is Magnolia a division of Best Buy? I called one of my local magnolia in best buy chains and they mentioned only core Magnolia centers were carrying the hlr5078w, and those appear to be solo stores. I'm hoping there is someway that I can work this out...I would prefer to upgrade at this point...otherwise I have no idea when my wife will allow me to go 1080p.

........

Well, it appears that wnorris got lucky...I can't find a best buy with magnolia that carries the HLR5078W in the Bay Area. And they've informed me that I can't trade up from a Best Buy to Magnolia. One would think that Best Buy would want my extra 1500 or so, especially considering that I won't be able to give them 3500 for a brand new TV anytime soon. bummer...perhaps I can find a decent 1080p set in a Best buy proper.

wnorris

03-15-06, 09:16 PM

Hmm...so is Magnolia a division of Best Buy? I called one of my local magnolia in best buy chains and they mentioned only core Magnolia centers were carrying the hlr5078w, and those appear to be solo stores. I'm hoping there is someway that I can work this out...I would prefer to upgrade at this point...otherwise I have no idea when my wife will allow me to go 1080p.

........

Well, it appears that wnorris got lucky...I can't find a best buy with magnolia that carries the HLR5078W in the Bay Area. And they've informed me that I can't trade up from a Best Buy to Magnolia. One would think that Best Buy would want my extra 1500 or so, especially considering that I won't be able to give them 3500 for a brand new TV anytime soon. bummer...perhaps I can find a decent 1080p set in a Best buy proper.

I was told that Best Buy and stand alone Magnolia A/V would not exchange between each other. However, Best Buy's with a MHT in the store were operated by the same store manager. Money goes through the same accounting center, exchanges handled by the same service desk, they accept BB gift cards, etc. For all intents, they are just part of BB.

The MHT stores can transfer from inventory anything the stand alone Magnolia stores carry. The MHT in my store had the 1080p pedestal models, but they had to order my 5078W from the Magnolia warehouse.

I'm not sure who you talked to, but you can exchange for anything in a MHT store (which are the ones located inside a BB). By bay area I assumed you mean San Fran. The following BB is the only one in SF with a MHT.

415.575.1015
1717 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94103

laggerific

03-15-06, 09:34 PM

I was told that Best Buy and stand alone Magnolia A/V would not exchange between each other. However, Best Buy's with a MHT in the store were operated by the same store manager. Money goes through the same accounting center, exchanges handled by the same service desk, they accept BB gift cards, etc. For all intents, they are just part of BB.

The MHT stores can transfer from inventory anything the stand alone Magnolia stores carry. The MHT in my store had the 1080p pedestal models, but they had to order my 5078W from the Magnolia warehouse.

I'm not sure who you talked to, but you can exchange for anything in a MHT store (which are the ones located inside a BB). By bay area I assumed you mean San Fran. The following BB is the only one in SF with a MHT.

415.575.1015
1717 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94103

Thanks...by Bay Area I was referring to the greater Bay Area, which includes East Bay(Berkeley, Atown (AKA oaktown, officially oakland), SF, North Bay (Marin), and South Bay (San Jose)...and prolly more than I'm aware, but I'm not sure there is a rigid rule to how its defined...I always think of it as whereever the BART system can reach...plus those fancy pants up north that don't need public transportation.

This is good info...I'm not sure who I spoke with at the MHT, but I will definitely pursue this further...at the very least I'll see if I can get this replacement fulfilled at a BB with a Magnolia, since that should have the best selection. And that's what I was wondering...couldn't they just order it from their warehouse? It's not like I have a vehicle capable of transporting such a beast. Thanks again for your info.

........

I just wanted to say that I spoke with the MHT in Union City that confirmed this...not that I didn't believe you, it just seems so often that these huge chains always seem to have something different from area to area...I'm still paranoid that I'll get another song and dance when I go to close the deal...perhaps just paranoia from your stories of "abuse" at the hands of the BB megacorp (referring to the various levels of bull you had to deal with, not necessarily the corporate people that helped you work through the sludge). Either way...just wanted to say thanks for the info, as it gives me hope that this will work out...otherwise I was starting to look at the Sony SXRD...and I had finally gotten comfortable with my DLP over the last year.

cyberbri

03-17-06, 07:54 PM

I've come across a strange issue.

I use an HTPC with my HLN4365W, and on the Windows XP screen where you select a profile, I have noticed the blues acting strange at the bottom for quite a while.

But last night watching "Good Night, and Good Luck," I noticed some purplish tints to some areas at the bottom of the screen. Today I dragged around a black-white gradation on the screen on my HTPC, and found that values above 50% grey have a slight bluish/purplish tint to them at the very bottom 5" or so of the screen, all the way across.

Has anyone ever seen this or heard of this before?

vlapietra

03-20-06, 10:34 AM

I don't remember ever reading of a color uniformity problem on these TV's before.
Can you see the same problem from a DVD player? If you're using VGA, check that the connection is tight.

cyberbri

03-20-06, 12:21 PM

I get it with both HTPC over DVI, and DVD player to Component 1.

vlapietra

03-21-06, 12:06 PM

That seems to rule out an input problem.
If the bulb was going you would expect to see the problem over the entire screen, not just along the bottom.
Sounds like it might be time for a service call.

daman4799

03-25-06, 07:10 AM

HLM507WFan

03-25-06, 05:05 PM

While its here my HLN started making the color wheel squells. The noise seems to go away after awhile after start up. I don't have a extented warranty. So my question is how much will this cost to repair? Another question would be is it worth it to repair?

Later, Daman

Well, it's only going to get worse. At some point, it will drown out the volume and sound worse than any dentist's drill you've ever heard. I didn't think I noticed any decrease in picture quality while it was going bad, but once we replaced it, the difference was pretty stark.

i had an extended warranty, and the service guy showed me the bill, and it was about $400. Hos shop was the closest authorized shop to me, and he was 70 miles away, so there was mileage included in that bill, but the part itself is a hundred bucks, plus their markup. At least it was at that time -- the price of the wheel may have gone up or down since then. But, it's a pretty expensive service call. Good luck. I don't envy you.

Sea Ray

03-25-06, 11:19 PM

i had an extended warranty, and the service guy showed me the bill, and it was about $400. Hos shop was the closest authorized shop to me, and he was 70 miles away, so there was mileage included in that bill, but the part itself is a hundred bucks, plus their markup. At least it was at that time -- the price of the wheel may have gone up or down since then. But, it's a pretty expensive service call. Good luck. I don't envy you.

That sounds pricey but I'd say well worth getting fixed if that's the issue.

Contrary to the thoughts which initiated these threads long ago when the HLM/HLN series first came out, there is a lot more that can go wrong with these sets than just the bulb. The idea was put forth that they'd work indefinitely as long as the bulbs were replaced from time to time. Well we've found light engines, color wheels and computer boards can be touchy parts to this TV as well. Not that I'm complaining. I'm one of the lucky ones. I've had nothing but the normal calibration issues with mine and I'm quite pleased but I now know of some of the issues that may come up in the future and I know I need that extended warranty for a lot more than just bulb replacements.

daman4799

03-26-06, 07:23 AM

Yes it's surely the color wheel. When I turn the set off it stops but I can still hear the fan running for a couple of minutes. Samsung should replace these things for free, considering all the problems with them.

I'm not sure what I will do yet. Call Samsung for repair or try to replace myself. If I had to do it all over again. I would have taken the extended warranty. I thought the same thing whats a light bulb to replace!

Maybe I'll take the back cover off today to see just how much is involved here.

What is the best set out there today for reliability? Maybe I'll think about going LCD.

Thanks for responding guys, Daman

zippychimp

04-08-06, 12:53 PM

Kenlex

04-08-06, 01:02 PM

I have a Samsung HLN5065W that is almost 4 years old. I have noticed a problem lately that often times when I first turn the set on, I can hear the audio for a while, but see no picture (stays black), then it turns itself OFF then ON again very quickly once or twice. Usually the picture eventually comes up after this sequence. The whole time the green lights on blinking on the front of the set.

I have the original bulb, and don't know how to check the hours on it via the menus. Anyone experiencing the same difficulty? Why is the TV turning itself ON & OFF repeatedly?

Thanks!
Zippy,

I recently had the same problem with my nearly 3 year old HLN437W (Weren't the Samsung DLP's of 4 years ago HLM's? Are you sure yours isn't nearing THREE years old?). After a few weeks of this behavior it got worse and worse and eventually it wouldn't come on at all. I replaced the lamp and all was well. Conclusion: your lamp is dying.

By the way, my set came with a screaming banshee color wheel, and the light engine was replaced under warranty. I discovered (to my chagrin) that the lamp actually installed in the set did not correspond to the code on the label outside the lamp access door. So, if the light engine in your set has been replaced, be sure you order the right replacement lamp. (If the light engine hasn't been replaced, the lamp inside is almost sure to be the same one listed on the label).

Good luck!

zippychimp

04-08-06, 01:09 PM

Zippy,

I recently had the same problem with my nearly 3 year old HLN437W (Weren't the Samsung DLP's of 4 years ago HLM's? Are you sure yours isn't nearing THREE years old?). After a few weeks of this behavior it got worse and worse and eventually it wouldn't come on at all. I replaced the lamp and all was well. Conclusion: your lamp is dying.

By the way, my set came with a screaming banshee color wheel, and the light engine was replaced under warranty. I discovered (to my chagrin) that the lamp actually installed in the set did not correspond to the code on the label outside the lamp access door. So, if the light engine in your set has been replaced, be sure you order the right replacement lamp. (If the light engine hasn't been replaced, the lamp inside is almost sure to be the same one listed on the label).

Good luck!

Kenlex - you are correct. I purchased my HLN in the Fall of 2003, so it is almost 3 years old. Thanks for sharing your similar symptoms.

1. Does anyone know an easy way to check my bulb hour history to get a gauge of how much time I have on it?

2. Does anyone recommend the least expensive place/site to purchase replacement bulbs for the Samsung DLP's? Is it hard to swap out?

Thanks to all for your help, I haven't been in here in a couple years because the tv has been working fine until now!

Pat

htwaits

04-08-06, 01:58 PM

1. Does anyone know an easy way to check my bulb hour history to get a gauge of how much time I have on it?Lamp hours for your set are recorded in the service menu. I don't have a HLN model but lamp hours should be in the last menu item on the first SM page. For the HLP sets that menu item is labeled "Option".

Once you are in the "Option" screen look for a value labeled something like "Lamp Life". You can set this value to zero when you replace the lamp. You may also find a value to indicate which lamp is installed. If so, it's very important that you match that setting to the lamp in your unit. Once you change that value and power off the set won't work if you power back up with the wrong lamp installed.

In your situation I would check the lamp hours and record the lamp type. Samsung used two types for a period of time. They should be able to help you figure out the right lamp and correct setting.

Caution!

I would like to add to this comment ... the average owner should probably not be in the service menu. If you are an extremely careful person that has the patience to document everything before you touch anything ... than maybe. There is no reset function. If you make a change, it is changed. If you don't record your starting point and make changes you may be impacting a number of other parameters. In addition, there is a strong possiblity that your set may have unique settings ... so if you mess it up you will not be able to just ask another forum member for the answer. Some settings need to be changed is a certain order and using a process. If you are unaware of the correct procedure, you will degrade the performance of your TV. You will need to hire a professional to recalibrate your TV if you are unhappy or unsure about how it is performing.

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The User Menu settings may revert to their original values when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

The SM main menu looks like this on an HLP set. The HLN sets will have a different first screen but there will be many similarities.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

2. Does anyone recommend the least expensive place/site to purchase replacement bulbs for the Samsung DLP's?Check this web site:

http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp?cookie%5Ftest=1

Is it hard to swap out?No. At some point there were instructiond included in the User's Guide. Maybe the HLN guide has them.

Tom14911

04-19-06, 01:35 PM

I am new (obviously) to the forum and their is some fantastic info on here. I've been subjected to the "screamin" color wheel problem on my HLN437W.

I've done my homework, know how to get to my service menu, researched the delay setting after the color wheel replacement....etc., etc.

Ordered my new color wheel and service manual and I was ready to rock. Well my color wheel will be in tommorow and my service manual is back-ordered! I'm perturbed...I can't wait....can anyone post the instructions or e-mail? If no, thats OK I will have to wait.

Thanks in advance - Tom

Kevin R. Anderson

04-19-06, 01:44 PM

Tom:

Send me a PM and I will shoot you the applicable section.

bojangling

04-19-06, 03:04 PM

htwaits

04-19-06, 09:14 PM

I worry it may damage the tv over time causing a warp or sag. My center channel speaker is 15lbs.Others have had the same worry. I don't know how much weight is too much, or better yet, how much weight is safe.I expect that it also will vary with each model case.

Don1959

04-19-06, 09:29 PM

I was wondering how people are mounting their center channel speakers. Anyone use a center channel shelf on the tv, such as this one?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067AIEU/002-4001823-0056825?v=glance&n=172282

I worry it may damage the tv over time causing a warp or sag. My center channel speaker is 15lbs.

I had the same problems concerns... I used to have the speaker sitting on top of my HLN-5065 with 2 books to even up back... but that set went tits up and I got a new Toshiba DLP... it had no place to put a speaker.... so I used a ceiling mount TV stand and it works and looks great...... see pic....

Don

bojangling

04-20-06, 09:48 AM

I had the same problems concerns... I used to have the speaker sitting on top of my HLN-5065 with 2 books to even up back... but that set went tits up and I got a new Toshiba DLP... it had no place to put a speaker.... so I used a ceiling mount TV stand and it works and looks great...... see pic....

Don

Looks nice..thanks for the idea.

Tom14911

04-21-06, 06:34 PM

See above post - about three back -

No luck for me - I replaced the color wheel and "ta-da" only the lamp light blinking...went back double checked - checked the switch on the lamp cover - still nothing.

Went back put the old color wheel back in - same thing - nothing.

Is there a master reset or startup sequence that I missed? I think I'm screwed...Yikes.

Tom

IAM4UK

04-28-06, 09:45 AM

My HLN-617W has stopped working. I was watching a movie, when the color started going haywire and I heard a loud squeal (persistant). I powered down and unplugged the set. When I plugged it back in about an hour later, it would give me the green flashing light upon remote control input, but would not power on (by remote or by the on-set power button).
Any ideas? Obviously, I'll call Samsung today.

gakon

04-28-06, 12:39 PM

Sure sounds like the color wheel. If you were still getting the proper image but with the wrong colors, the bearing or motor may have failed and it couldn't sync the mirrors with the proper colors.

papalee

08-29-06, 12:48 AM

I have a Samsung DLP HLN4365W for about 3 years. The lamp aging is about 5500 hours and lately the 3BLIKING LIGHTS problem happens. Actually my TV is only half dead, that mean if I turn my TV off I have to wait till the day after so that my TV will be able to turn on agian. I did change the lamp; nothing work, then I change the ballaster; nothing work, last I replaced the colorwheel; It didn' help either. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Many thanks in advance.
Lee

cyberbri

08-29-06, 02:15 AM

After replacing the lamp, did you make sure the settings in the service menu were set to the correct kind of bulb?

papalee

08-29-06, 06:49 AM

Yes, I did. I used the same type of Phillips lamp. Thanks for responding.

plevine

08-29-06, 02:49 PM

Is your TV in a cabinet? Mine had cooling issues until I took it out of the cabinet it was in. Now it no longer gives me the three lights of death on a regular basis.

papalee

08-29-06, 10:23 PM

No, Mine is on a TV stand , It is about 1 foot away from the wall and I don't think it is a ventilation problem. I guess it is an electronic control chip malfuntions that is why it could not kick in to start. But I don't know which one it is.

mjblaw

08-31-06, 08:18 PM

I have the killer screaming color wheel on my Samsung HLN5065W. Thought I was alone in the wilderness. Have had my bulb replaced (yes, the serial #s were screwed up as in earlier posts)pursuant to my Best Buy Warranty. The repair(sic)guys also put in a new color wheel and light engine. They told me it was quiet. It is not. It is Loud. I am not going to try to fix it myself. "If you don't know what you are doing, don't do it". Anyone actually fixed the loudness, or should I throw it in the street and get something else?

hotshot

08-31-06, 08:22 PM

It's a no brainer that having something with moving parts is not preferable. Glad I did not get DLP.

greyfox09

09-10-06, 11:24 AM

My color wheel seem to have gone. I have a screaming noise from the back also.
Is this really a $300 buck repair tag?

Sea Ray

09-10-06, 12:13 PM

My color wheel seem to have gone. I have a screaming noise from the back also.
Is this really a $300 buck repair tag?

I would think just about any repair on this set would run $300 once you include parts, labor and the service call. To me it's more about performance. I can deal with expensive repair bills if it restores my picture to how it was. It sounds like after replacing parts on this set, tricky adjustments need to be made in the service menu and I'm not confident most repair guys are sharp enough to do it.

fgt111

09-14-06, 05:37 PM

I looked at your unoffical site. I have an HLN507WX that was purchased in the fall of 2003. It was working perfecty for almost 2 1/2 years until recently when I turned it on it worked perfectly for appoximately 15 minutes and the the picture frooze in black and white and nothing but the sound worked. I checked the lamp and it was fine. Then finally after 3 hard disconnects I got the 3 blinking lights. After about 1/2 hour of being off, it did the same thing. Got any ideas what is happening?

fred

papalee

09-16-06, 02:40 AM

It sounds like a color wheel problem to me. Just my 2 cents

rjc523

09-22-06, 08:28 PM

Has anyone had this problem - when I switch from the dvi input to composite 1 everything is fine but when I switch back to dvi from composite 1 there is no sound. So to get sound I have to switch to component 2 (not component 1, it has to be component 2) to dvi. I can also switch from composite 1 to component 2 to dvi to get sound. But wait, it gets better, if I'm watching a program (with sound) on component 1 and turn the tv off while on component 1, when I turn it back on there will be no sound!

I never had this problem until this past March the tv died (sound but no picture). When this happened, the service center replaced all the internals and the problem started. They replaced all the internals a second time and the problem still exists.

Russ

bralli

09-23-06, 02:13 AM

I have the HLN617WX/XAA and my bulb died tonight (right before football weekend :(.....). I pulled the bulb out and it is part #BP96-0024E. It seems the E bulb is a discontinued bulb. I am reading conflicting information on what part replaces this bulb. Samsungparts.com lists the BP96-0024J as the replacement for this part, however I did find another site (www.partstore.com) that specifically mentioned that if I have a WHITE label on the inside of the door the lamp cover, then the bulb should be BP96-0024A not J.

Does anyone know the difference between these bulbs? Also, will I need to do anything in the service menu if I install a slightly different bulb?

GLO

09-23-06, 11:34 PM

Presently i have my HTPC connected via DVI to the SP61L2HX 61" LCD RPTV. This is the Aussie version of your LCD RPTV.

Im running my best fit screen resolution at 1232x672 as this gives me the full desktop without any over scan when using 1280x720 from the HTPC.

But since the Samsung has a native resolution of 720p, and this has apparent negligible overscan from the Samsung DVD player, how do I adjust the screen zoom what i want to know is how to adjust the screen horizontal and vertical size (just like you do on your PC monitor) on the Samsung???

In short where are the screen adjustments like horizontal and vertical size, Trapezoidal, Pin Cushion, Parrallelogram, Pin Balance settings?

Thanks!

DPETTIGREW

09-30-06, 10:07 PM

I’ve owned an HNL5065W for a year & 8 months. It started giving me some problems just after the 1 year Warranty was up. A lot of Lamp difficulties and also some rather load popping noises. Most of these issues were resolved by turning it off for a while. Now I have the dreaded 3 blinking light problem – and I’m certain (almost) that it is not a bad lamp.

I’ve tried all the usual unplugging and reseating and different lamps but this time the lamp does not light up. Both fans work.

I’ve found a replacement ballast for about $160 delivered and I’m fairly confident that I can install it – but – I don’t want to throw good money after bad. I’m out of Warranty and I’m not going to spend $1,300 on a new engine. So – anyone have any guesses on the likelihood of it being the ballast – rather than something else? Any test that I didn’t perform?

Suggestions and advise would be greatly appreciated.

Dennis

jaseman

10-01-06, 05:01 PM

fgt111

10-01-06, 05:50 PM

I agree you should not spend $1,300 on a new engine. Instead why not just buy a new lamp for a few hundred bucks (I know, still not cheap :( ) and see if that fixes your problem :D . If it does...well then your good to go. If it doesn't the bulb can still be used down the road when the first one burns out... which it eventually will ;) .
I ve got a hln 507 wx, that has been collecting dust for the past 3 months. Originally I replaced the bulb about 1 1/2 years ago. Like DEPETTIGREW I did not have an extended warranty. Every thing was fine for almost 1 1/2 years after the warranty expired. About 3 months ago the set would turn on perfectly and the picture was perfect for about 15-20 minutes then the everything would stop, almost like the picture would freeze. I tried the 3 hard disconnects and nothing happened. I waited about 1 hour and the set would come back on again and do the same thing after about 15 minutes. I tried the hard disconnects and got the 3 blinking lights.
I found a Samsung authorized repair tech and he looked at it and said it needed a light engine in the tune of $1000. I asked if that would garantee the fix and he said no. So I did not spend another penny. I have filed a complaint with Samsung and was assured that the upper management would give me a decision. Besides that I cant find a tech that is willing to tell me what is really wrong. I think that $3500 new and $1000 more is rediculous. I have been reading this site and it seems that the Samsung DLP are trash after about the first 2 years. There should be a class action law suit against Samsung for making trash and selling trash to the public. Especially when the hype in the beginning was that the DLPs would be worry free except for an ocassional lamp. I guess they ment not to worry about have a set that would work after the warranty was up. Samsung DLP Sucks.

Fred

fgt111

10-01-06, 05:54 PM

It sounds like a color wheel problem to me. Just my 2 cents
I thought that the only problem with a color wheel was the bearing going up. when this happens it starts screaming. I dont have that screaming noise.
Fred

Sea Ray

10-01-06, 08:17 PM

I understand your frustration Fred. I'm not sure that all of them blow after a couple years. The people using them without problems like I am don't post here to say all's well.

DPETTIGREW

10-02-06, 08:07 AM

tanasi

10-03-06, 07:08 AM

I've now got 3 lamps - that has worked in the past - for a while. Sometimes I would replace a lamp with a one which previously had not worked - the set woould work for a while.

I'm in agreement with Fred - this thing started to go dim just after the year warranty was up - and really started to develope problems shortly after that. I'll never buy a Samsung again - they are junk as far as I'm concerned.

DP

I have an HLN-5065 made in Korea that has been repaired 4 times under extended warranty, nothing while under factory warranty. It has had a new color wheel, light engine, ballast and several chips replaced on a board that was apparently no longer available, when the audio and 480i/480p stopped working. The warranty company has spent something close to 3000 bucks or more on it and it runs out this week. It is plugged into a high quality UPS that outputs a smooth sinewave. I am worried as I really need to get 5 to 7 years out of this thing.

There are lemons in every line but I wonder if the percentage has been high for the HLN series.

gakon

10-03-06, 02:46 PM

I hope I'm not jinxing myself, but my history is a little better. I did go through 3 light engines in 8 months due to a noisy color wheel and missing pixels (entire strip along the left hand side) on the original warranty, and it's been good ever since. Like Sea Ray said, you're not going to hear from the people who don't have problems.

It seems the E bulb is a discontinued bulb. I am reading conflicting information on what part replaces this bulb. Samsungparts.com lists the BP96-0024J as the replacement for this part, however I did find another site that specifically mentioned that if I have a WHITE label on the inside of the door the lamp cover, then the bulb should be BP96-0024A not J.I replaced my lamp a while ago and went through the same issues. Unfortunately, any time I think about checking I'm either not home (like now) or the TV is on. But I think I ended up with a "J" model.
In short where are the screen adjustments like horizontal and vertical size, Trapezoidal, Pin Cushion, Parrallelogram, Pin Balance settings?I don't think anyone responded, but these do not exist. You can only change the vertical and horizontal placement in the service menu, and that is all.