Did the Dwin rep say whether it was a DLP projector?

I just talked to a Dwin factory rep. at a pre-CEDIA show in Bellevue, WA and he said the new 1080p project should be ready around CES, although he did not say they would be definitely showing it there. He said it would be a single chip machine.

I just changed my lamp today - 2461 hrs. I read some previous posts about quieter replacement fans, and since I am in the "maintenance mode" right now (it does not usually last too long), I though I might get some advice on fans to use and where to get them.

BTW - I saw a demo with the new Sim2 C3X Link projector. It looked really nice but the rep. did not have a Hi-Def DVD projector (and had never seen one himself?). I went home and got my Toshiba HD-XA1 HD-DVD player and some HD-DVDs. The picture was astonishing -you could see the thread count on the soldiers uniforms in the Last Samurai and my dream of going into space was fulfilled in Apollo 13. The Sim2 looked much better than one of my clients Sony Qualias. I sure hated to walk away from that unit. I will be putting it in another clients theater.

I'm running a Toshiba A1 HDDVD thru my DWIN TV3 and it is awsome. I got a HDMI to DVI cable and this seems to be slightly better quality than component although both are good. The HDMI to DVI approach seems a bit flakey though it requires some fiddling to get it working. There seems to be some handshaking issues when I switch the video input to and from the DVI input that usually require a reboot of the HDDVD play to correct.

Can someone tell me what I am loosing using the HDMI to DVI cable? I do not seem to be able to be able to utilize the A1 upscale feature for regular DVD's I always get a message about this video does not allow upscaling and will be displayed at 480p. IS this because it has to be HDMI to HDMI to enable this?

I'm running a Toshiba A1 HDDVD thru my DWIN TV3 and it is awsome. I got a HDMI to DVI cable and this seems to be slightly better quality than component although both are good. The HDMI to DVI approach seems a bit flakey though it requires some fiddling to get it working. There seems to be some handshaking issues when I switch the video input to and from the DVI input that usually require a reboot of the HDDVD play to correct.

Can someone tell me what I am loosing using the HDMI to DVI cable? I do not seem to be able to be able to utilize the A1 upscale feature for regular DVD's I always get a message about this video does not allow upscaling and will be displayed at 480p. IS this because it has to be HDMI to HDMI to enable this?

That's weird.

I am using the A1 as well, with the hdmi>dvi connection, and I am able to upscale sd dvd's without issue.

Have you ever used another upscaling player with hdmi with the Dwin?

The new Dwin 1080p projector will reportedly by a DLP based unit. I think some of the delay may be due to TI's chips.

I too have some handshaking glitches with using the Toshiba, but I updated the firmware and that seems to help. No problems with upscaling regular DVDs. Some of the problems may be that the Toshiba is a very slow unit and I am very impatient and often do not let the machine to take its time and I start pushing buttons and probably confuse the machine. If I just sit back and "let nature take its course" the HD connection between the 2 machines seems to work itself out. ( And all you physicists out there think that electrons move at the speed of light! :rolleyes: )

The new Dwin 1080p projector will reportedly by a DLP based unit. I think some of the delay may be due to TI's chips.

I too have some handshaking glitches with using the Toshiba, but I updated the firmware and that seems to help. No problems with upscaling regular DVDs. Some of the problems may be that the Toshiba is a very slow unit and I am very impatient and often do not let the machine to take its time and I start pushing buttons and probably confuse the machine. If I just sit back and "let nature take its course" the HD connection between the 2 machines seems to work itself out. ( And all you physicists out there think that electrons move at the speed of light! :rolleyes: )

Yes I got the firmware upgrade to 2.0 and the HDMI/DVI seems a lot better and the upscale is working as well :) Awesome.

I have a TV3 and replaced my bulb at around 300 hours. Bulb #2 died tonight at around 300 hours. At the end, the colors went crazy with a green haze and a solarization type of effect with the whites. The projector will power up with the color wheel spinning, the lamp does not come on and then it powers down. Is there anything internally that can cause low bulb life? I unplug the projector when not in use ( live in Florida). I am using it with an Equitech balanced power unit and surge suppressor. Dwin said balanced power would not hurt it. Can anyone give me any help or has had a similar problem. Thanks in advanced

Sounds like a bad unit...you should get 1500 to 2500 hours at least...BUT, how long did it take for you to burn up 300 hours...if it took you 2 years on each then that may explain it.

Most projectors don't like occasional use (once a week, etc.) This can definitely lead to premature bulb death also known as PBD.

Just kidding on the PBD acronym, but you get the point. :)

How often do you use your system?

The reason I ask is that you mention it is a TV3 which has been discontinued for quite a while.

Brent Huskins
Media Design

Thanks for the reply. The unit is a dealer demo. Both bulbs were a year or less old. I use the projector on Friday thru Sundays and watch 3 movies a week on average. Dwin has told me that it is the number of times you turn the projector on and off that shortens the bulb life. The power up is hardest on the bulb. You would think that the bulb would go dimmer or just not come on. For the colors to go crazy and the whites to explode into being very bright and expand out does not seem like a bulb problem. It happened twice after the projector was on for about 1.5 hours. Could a power issue cause this to happen? Thanks.

OK, here's a quick description of how to get rid of the solarization problem. I'll try to get a more elaborate description next time I watch something (Could be a while since I hate seeing the TV3 problems). You have to get in the service menu to fix it. Then, I believe you need to get into the white balance settings and change the index setting. This number should be around 205-215 before you start. Moving this number up or down a little (+/-5) should take care of your solarization problem. I suggest you find a scene with solarization before adjusting this and pausing the scene while adjusting it. What should the number be? I don't know. Mine had no solarization problem before I sent it in to get fixed and came back with solarization. The index value is different with each projector. Just go by eye to find the right setting.

Can anyone explain what exactly is the solarization problem? I am getting an absolutely beatiful picture, but I am also getting some colors that are not right. Nemo looks pink/red, so colors similar to orange or and other shades of of red tones seems to look pinkish red - though skin tones look great. Is this solarization?

Thanks for the reply. The unit is a dealer demo. Both bulbs were a year or less old. I use the projector on Friday thru Sundays and watch 3 movies a week on average. Dwin has told me that it is the number of times you turn the projector on and off that shortens the bulb life. The power up is hardest on the bulb. You would think that the bulb would go dimmer or just not come on. For the colors to go crazy and the whites to explode into being very bright and expand out does not seem like a bulb problem. It happened twice after the projector was on for about 1.5 hours. Could a power issue cause this to happen? Thanks.
I seem to be having the same problem or nearly the same. My problem began with 800 hours on the bulb. After about 1.5 hrs of operation, the light seems to flicker with false colors displaying with white being the most prominent. It is a false high intensity white that outlines and fills some of the objects on the screen for a short period at about a 1/5 second rate. It's as if the dlp chip and the color wheel are not in sync and/or both are operating improperly. If I wait for the unit to cool after shutting down it will work for about 1.5 hrs and the same thing happens. I installed a new bulb yesterday and the same thing happens so it does not appear to be the bulb. My guess is that it is heat related and is probably related to the dlp chip itself. Any ideas from the experts out there?

I had a very similiar issue, I sent it in and it was fixed. As usual didn't get too many details in regards to the specific repairs, but the gist of the matter was "it was a color wheel issue"

I had a very similiar issue, I sent it in and it was fixed. As usual didn't get too many details in regards to the specific repairs, but the gist of the matter was "it was a color wheel issue"
Talked to DWIN tech support. They said to send the projector in. Getting an RMA now. Thanks for the help.

I just fixed my solarization.
I did not see any color accuracy problems. A little tough to describe but the picture looked kind of swirly and darker areas. If you watch Lucky Luey, I saw a TON of it on that show.
I went into the service menu and adjusted the 'delay' I think it was called. 213 to 208 and it was all gone. Incidently, my picture was stunning all other times. I saw this about 10-15% of the time
FREAK

Hey Freak, I think it is time to change your sig line!

I just fixed my solarization.
I did not see any color accuracy problems. A little tough to describe but the picture looked kind of swirly and darker areas. If you watch Lucky Luey, I saw a TON of it on that show.
I went into the service menu and adjusted the 'delay' I think it was called. 213 to 208 and it was all gone. Incidently, my picture was stunning all other times. I saw this about 10-15% of the time
FREAK

Well I spoke with Dwin and they could not diagnose the problem, only alternative is to send it in.

Freak - I do not know how to get into the service menu, could you send me a PM with the walkthrough?

I am not sure my problem is solarization. The problem is with the colour red, watching Finding Nemo, the Nemo/Marlin looked kind of very deep pinkish red, not orange. Watching the Red Sox game tonight, same thing, very strong red/pink. Could it be a problem with the processor and not the head unit? The component inputs (both) are also acting up, but this time, no red. Could it be the cable - inspected and the terminals look fine?

The rest of the colors look perfect (on both DVI inputs, source DVD and Dish box), even the skin tone are perfect. Not sure if this is happened to anyone here before. I would certainly like to try everything before sending it to DWIN.

Did you calibrate this PJ?

How's this Rob?

FREAK!

How's this Rob?

FREAK!

Better! ;)


(and just to let you know, I really like the Pats, although the 'Boys are my favorite team)

Now you're talkin...T.O. is my new best friend...

Now you're talkin...T.O. is my new best friend...


:D

It will be interesting to see how he "fits in", to say the least. Either way, it should be entertaining!

When I displayed the white crosshatch pattern lately using the service menu to align my pj I noticed both blue & yellow colors bleeding out from the white line. How do I align them back and see only white lines. Or is this normal?

-twelly

"Can someone tell me what I am loosing using the HDMI to DVI cable? I do not seem to be able to be able to utilize the A1 upscale feature for regular DVD's I always get a message about this video does not allow upscaling and will be displayed at 480p. IS this because it has to be HDMI to HDMI to enable this? "

In a generic HDMI out to a DVI adapter where the output offers audio as well (audio is supported by HDMI, not DVI) you will lose the audio because the DVI input on your device won't support it not because you used a DVI cable. There is no signal conversion loss in using this configuration since the cables are simply wire to wire. Also on the audio issue, the audio loss by using a DVI adapter is not really lost since it is embedded in the digital data muxed signal on the data lines in the HDMI or the DVI cable. It's just that any device with DVI input won't see the audio in the mux on it's DVI connection nor will any DVI device port out audio from a DVI output. It's just not in the specs for DVI! You could actually use a DVI extension cable for TWO HDMI devices and the audio would pass thru the DVI cable un affected. Its all in the devices, not the wire! The only other disadvantage I can think of using a DVI / HDMI adapter is the additional connections in play would be a place for trouble but that's all.


Bulb life- Dwin is giving you the straight scoop on power up cycles. The PJ bulb is a special arc design that has to initiate an arc and then come up to brightness over a proper power up sequence for it to work. While there could be some power supply failures, its most likely the bulb has failed. Next you should determine whether you use the projector in a manner that exacerbates bulb failure. This would be turning on the PJ more than once per day. If you want to watch a movie in the afternoon and later in the evening a second movie, I would recommend leaving the PJ on the whole time, even between movies or shows. You should try to power up the PJ no more than once per day. Brent's offer of the PBD syndrom based on non-use or infrequent use causing PBD is interesting. I had heard of this once before and that was from Alan Gouger who suggested these bulbs have a cold shelf life too which can cause short life once you use them. I'm not sure I understand the science in this theory but only offer it as support for what Brent suggested. But, I will say that I get typically, 2500 - 3500 hrs on my bulbs, on my 4th one now, and I use the PJ daily, about 10 hrs on time per day average. Once I bought a spare bulb and used it for about 60 hours. When I replaced a burned out bulb with over 4000 hours on it with this spare having the 60 hours, it only lasted 900 hours. So, there may be some validity to the PBD theory.
I have a backup spare PJ that is a Panasonic. It is used on rare times when the Dwin is down for overhaul and then usually for just 10 days. IF PBD is a real issue, I suspect I'll get short hours on this :(

When I displayed the white crosshatch pattern lately using the service menu to align my pj I noticed both blue & yellow colors bleeding out from the white line. How do I align them back and see only white lines. Or is this normal?

-twelly

I am not sure that is normal, I found the crosshatch pattern the other day and used it to fill in the screen and did not see any color bleeding.

What I see is some (anamorphic) movies do not fill in the whole screen on the sides (say about 1 maybe 2 "), are you finding this in your case? I have to go into the regular menu and change the size (thought it should be left 1280x720).

Does anybody knows if Dwin show up at CEDIA? I am very happy with my Dwin TV3 E, and i think i can wait several years for a new projector, but since there are many of us who has a Dwin Projector, perhaps with the latest upgrade, would anybody who has a good relatioship with the dWIN Company ask about a possibility of upgrading for some money to the 1080p chip. I think Dwin can make some extra money there besides selling a new model. I think if it is not to much, I will do it. Anybody else?

Well, once again, I can't even make it to 1000 hours on a bulb, and have to replace the bulb once again within a year. This is getting old.

I have the upgraded chip in the DWIN, and am starting to debate how much I could sell the unit for. I'm one that uses the projector several times a week, and keep it on for at least 2 hours before shutting it down. I'm never hard on the bulb, but yet it goes out once again.

As others have mentioned above me, I know when it's about to go. I see strange artifacts, sudden jumps in brightness, and then the next day I go and power it on and nothing but a fast blinking light. I've sent this unit in for repair several times, and have sworn up and down to DWIN that this was a bad unit (Brent is my witness on this one!), but nothing seemed to fix the problems. Maybe I'm being to critical, but after blowing through 4 bulbs all with less than 1000 hours on it, something is wrong. 700 on one to be exact. Ridiculous.

It really is sad. The image is so nice, especially after the chip upgrade, but the upkeep is getting out of control.

At this point, I'll take any help I can get. Or some money for the projector. :)

EDIT - Just looked through this thread, January 15 of this year is when I ordered my replacement bulb. I wasn't able to check the hours on this one, but I can bet it's low, maybe beating out my 700 from before. Horrible. Absolutely horrible.

chip upgrade? Please tell. What chip? Cost? and what you upgraded from. Thanks.

Sorry to hear of your situation, Chris. I got mine from Brent over three years ago also.

I have a regular TV3 with about 1800 hrs on the first bulb (haven't watched much in the last year). How much can it be unloaded for? $2K? or $1.5K?

Sorry to hear of your situation, Chris. I got mine from Brent over three years ago also.

I have a regular TV3 with about 1800 hrs on the first bulb (haven't watched much in the last year). How much can it be unloaded for? $2K? or $1.5K?

You would probably be doing pretty good between 1.5 and 2k, but probably closer to 1.5....possibly even less. :(

I have the original TV3 as well, with 1501 hours on it. Looking to upgrade in 6-9 months. 1080p, here I come! :)

I am located in central New Jersey and looking for someone to replace a malfunctioning fan in my DWIN TV3. Any one know a vendor / reliable person who can do it? Otherwise, I'll have to mail the projector to DWIN.

speed911,

Read through this thread and you'll see that most repairs are either DIY or FTD (FedX to Dwin). I'm not aware of many shops performing repairs on a Dwin

On the question of bulbs, do you still fax them an order form to get one? I can't seem to find anything on their website.
FREAK!

As others have mentioned above me, I know when it's about to go. I see strange artifacts, sudden jumps in brightness, and then the next day I go and power it on and nothing but a fast blinking light. I've sent this unit in for repair several times, and have sworn up and down to DWIN that this was a bad unit (Brent is my witness on this one!), but nothing seemed to fix the problems. Maybe I'm being to critical, but after blowing through 4 bulbs all with less than 1000 hours on it, something is wrong. 700 on one to be exact. Ridiculous.



Can you describe the "strange artifacts" that you see before it blows?

I have 1502 hours on my bulb, and the pj just started acting strange. When I turn it on, I get what looks like electric interference going through the picture, and the color is way off....everything has a surreal look, almost like a cartoon. Also, the screen door becomes extremely noticeable at normal viewing distance.

After running for about 7-11 minutes, the problem completely disappears and everything is fine. I've been able to do this the last several days. Every time I turn it on it has the weird look. Run it 7-11 minutes, its fine again, and I can watch for several hours without issue.

I dont see any variations in brightness up and down.

Anyone?

Try this link-

http://www.dwin.com/documents/DWINlamporderform8-07-06.pdf

Thanks Don

You would probably be doing pretty good between 1.5 and 2k, but probably closer to 1.5....possibly even less. :(

I have the original TV3 as well, with 1501 hours on it. Looking to upgrade in 6-9 months. 1080p, here I come! :)

That is very sad considering the upgrade costs close to that, not to mention the price paid for it up front. If I could get 2.5k for it I'd be happy.

EDIT - It looks like there is one up on ebay right now. And it's not doing well. Go figure.

Can you describe the "strange artifacts" that you see before it blows?

I have 1502 hours on my bulb, and the pj just started acting strange. When I turn it on, I get what looks like electric interference going through the picture, and the color is way off....everything has a surreal look, almost like a cartoon. Also, the screen door becomes extremely noticeable at normal viewing distance.

After running for about 7-11 minutes, the problem completely disappears and everything is fine. I've been able to do this the last several days. Every time I turn it on it has the weird look. Run it 7-11 minutes, its fine again, and I can watch for several hours without issue.

I dont see any variations in brightness up and down.

Anyone?

I didn't get anything crazy like that, well to the cartoon extent. The jumps in brightness were the indicators for me, and solarization pops back in to play as well. I'm glad you got 1502 hours on the bulb. For me, that's 2 bulbs worth! :p

Been lurking here for a while. Loved the projector from day 1. Installed a whisperflow hushbox for the unit in the first week which dramatically reduced projector noise and light spill.

After I received the projector back from Dwin after a repair, I notice a strange anomaly for the projected image on the screen. In rendering shades of white on the screen (shirt colors, sand on a golf course), there is some pink pixelization that appears in regions of subtle white contrast. This is similar to the solarization explained by others with the tv3. I also notice that if you look at the light output of the projector at a 45 degree angle, the top portion of the projector output contains a steady red beam (like a laser pointer) that is in the same place from the projector lens for every source. The beam comes from the back of the lens. This pixelization or solarization is quite distracting and the pink pixels appear randomly in other parts of the image, turning on and off quickly.

Is this a dust issue, and if so, why does it affect many different regions of the image? Is this a color wheel timing issue, and if so, how do I correct that? If it is a dust issue, is there a more detailed description of how to spray compressed air to rid the DLP chip of dust?

Any thoughts?


Jay

Can you photo it?

I can try to take a photo tonight. My last attempt did not go so well to show the laser pointer like line coming from the projector lens, but I should at least be able to get a better shot of the image effect on the screen. Any suspicions on the cause without a picture?

It will either be dust or the color index setting/color wheel setting. If I see a picture I can tell you pretty easily.

Well, can't post the link, but type 2900clarendon dot(.) com and then go to the "Executive Game" page for the pics. Need 5 posts to submit a link.

I talked with Dwin customer service as well. Steve at Dwin believed it to be the color wheel setting. Making the proposed adjustments did not help. The 7 pictures try to illustrate the problem, but I'm no expert with a camera. I did find a strange anomally while previewing some of the setup images in the menu. Some lines of pixels (extending left to right or top to bottom depending upon the particular gray scale image) appeared in the gray scale setup static images. My guess is that you'll tell me there is a serious problem and that the pink pixels I see around the in various images, that are hard to describe and photograph, are caused by these anomalies easily seen in the gray scale static images.

Hopefully you'll tell me this is all caused by some dust blob, but I'm not optimistic. Let me know if you need any other images.

http://www.2900clarendon.com/executivegame.html

What is the source and what kind of cable is used specifically? Does the proplem show up on all sources?

problem shows up on all sources. HD is component. DVD is DVI. Composite for others. All sources have the problem. Dwin told me that the previous problem with the projector was blown pins on the DVI inputs/outputs connecting scaler to projector? This problem did not exist before servicing, if that helps at all.

Just added one more picture - blue pixel circle - just took this one. It appears in the blue menu overlay of video source in HD over component. This type of circling/pixelization appears in many different areas of images, but is most noticeable in white areas that are normally hard to photograph. Updated to the clarendon website you posted.

Thanks again for the help, but I guess I'm not helping you much in the diagnosis. Don't the grayscale problems suggest the cause?

Well Hello there Brent!

:)

Just wanted to ask my fellow tv3 owners if anyone of you hooked up either HD-A1 or HD-XA1 hd-dvd player from toshiba? Did it work flawlessly with the tv3? I'm looking into purchasing one soon. Thanks.

-twelly

Just wanted to ask my fellow tv3 owners if anyone of you hooked up either HD-A1 or HD-XA1 hd-dvd player from toshiba? Did it work flawlessly with the tv3? I'm looking into purchasing one soon. Thanks.

-twelly

Definitely! Works great, with fantastic picture quality. Very highly recommended..

Definitely! Works great, with fantastic picture quality. Very highly recommended..


Thanks Rob. Which model did you get?

-Twelly

Thanks Rob. Which model did you get?

-Twelly

I got the HD-A1. I do occasionally get a slight skipping in video, which makes the audio out of sync. I hit the pause button, then hit play and it re-syncs. Probably happens 1 out of 4 or 5 discs.

You might want to consider waiting for the new A2, due out shortly.

I got the HD-A1. I do occasionally get a slight skipping in video, which makes the audio out of sync. I hit the pause button, then hit play and it re-syncs. Probably happens 1 out of 4 or 5 discs.

You might want to consider waiting for the new A2, due out shortly.


Thanks for the suggestion Rob. I might consider your suggestion.

-Twelly

Can anyone describe how dust blob/speck would look like. On dark scenes or when an input is selected but nothing is playing I see a bright smudge on the middle left side of the screen - it looks sort of a bright spot (brighter than the rest).

Could this be dust?

I looked inside the PJ the other day and everything looks clean, thought some dust is always inevitable, but nothing that I would think be big enought to cause any trouble. Or maybe I do not know what should look for, and where.

Any help very appreciated. Just would want to avoid a trip to Dwin.

Can anyone describe how dust blob/speck would look like. On dark scenes or when an input is selected but nothing is playing I see a bright smudge on the middle left side of the screen - it looks sort of a bright spot (brighter than the rest).

Could this be dust?

I looked inside the PJ the other day and everything looks clean, thought some dust is always inevitable, but nothing that I would think be big enought to cause any trouble. Or maybe I do not know what should look for, and where.

Any help very appreciated. Just would want to avoid a trip to Dwin.

Definitely sounds like dust to me!

It only takes a tiny speck to cause trouble like this. You need to use a compressed air can to blow the dust out of the optical pathway. Be careful! Short little bursts! And do this in a clean area, preferably on a table. The last thing you want to do is stir up more dust and make the matter worse! :eek:

Well Hello there Brent!

:)

Hey there...got the Halo D3s in finally...

Rob always was an early adopter...

Hey there...got the Halo D3s in finally...

Nice! :)

Rob always was an early adopter...


Yeah, but if I am going to be an early adopter, shouldn't I early adopt a 1080p projector before a new sound processor?!

:cool:

Brent, I don't suppose you have heard any rumors (that you can share) about Dwin releasing a 1080p pj have you?

The rumor is that 1080p is coming to CES and they have something "unique" in the works. My guess would be a 2.35:1 cinemascope lens or something like that being that they already have a great input box...maybe gennum or realta processing...that would be cool too.

The rumor is that 1080p is coming to CES and they have something "unique" in the works. My guess would be a 2.35:1 cinemascope lens or something like that being that they already have a great input box...maybe gennum or realta processing...that would be cool too.

Yes, gennum or realta processing would be cool! :cool:

There was a thread asking/wondering why Dwin didn't show up at CEDIA. It did seem strange. And even stranger that they would show up at CES, but NOT CEDIA, doesn't it?

Anyway, if they do a cinemascope lens, I assume that would be optional and at additional cost? Guess we will find out more at CES.

It probably boiled down to them not being ready and investing the $40 to $50K in booth expense into product R&D...

Can you describe the "strange artifacts" that you see before it blows?

I have 1502 hours on my bulb, and the pj just started acting strange. When I turn it on, I get what looks like electric interference going through the picture, and the color is way off....everything has a surreal look, almost like a cartoon. Also, the screen door becomes extremely noticeable at normal viewing distance.

After running for about 7-11 minutes, the problem completely disappears and everything is fine. I've been able to do this the last several days. Every time I turn it on it has the weird look. Run it 7-11 minutes, its fine again, and I can watch for several hours without issue.



I posted this on September 22.

It looks like my Dwin has now bit the dust. I turned it on tonight, and everything was fine, even when I first turned it on. If anything, it seemed the problem was getting better as it wasn't doing it nearly as often. Then, after watching for about an hour, it started doing it again. This was strange because before it had always only done it at startup, and then it would go away. It had never started doing it after watching for a while.

Well, it will not go away this time. I have turned it off, gone back 20 minutes later, let it run for 40 minutes etc. but nothing works.

Again, I can best describe it as serious electrical interference going through the picture with horizontal lines that will scroll down the screen, and posturization in a big way. You can also see what looks like pixel structure very easily from normal viewing distances.

Very strange.

Any ideas?

I wonder what Dwin will charge to repair this?

BIG BUCKS...just kidding...they should be reasonable...have you called them today?

BIG BUCKS...just kidding...they should be reasonable...have you called them today?

Haven't called yet.

Any ideas on what the problem is based on my description?

No idea but definitley an issue...It couldn't be power related could it?

No idea but definitley an issue...It couldn't be power related could it?

I don't see how. No problems with any other components. The pj head is on a different circuit, so I guess I could try plugging it in to a different circuit.

P.S. You have a voice message!

;)

Sell it. Sell it now!

:D

I am. ;)

Sell it. Sell it now!

:D

I am. ;)

Frankly there is no point in selling it. The last one on eBay sold for just over $1000.

http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:112&item=230031703985&id=
(put ebaay.com (minus one "a")where the stars are)

For that price, I will probably sell it to my brother in law in that same ballpark since he has an HT, but can't afford to buy a pj yet. He may be able to afford $1000 to hold him over.

Before the Dwin started acting up like this, it was still throwing a pretty darn good picture! I would like to have more contrast and light output, but I certainly didn't feel the need to upgrade immediately either.

Edit: by the way Chris, what pj are you currently leaning towards? What size is your screen?

I know. I monitored that auction on e bay and was very disappointed that it went for that little. I'd take $2k and run if I could, but I think that will be hard. My bulbs are going out left and right, and I can't figure out why, and neither can DWIN. I'd rather put $450 to a new projector and call it a day.

I currently have a 110" Stewart Studiotek 130 screen. I think I've seen you posting in the Pearl forums, and that's what I'm leaning towards. I have the 50" SXRD in my living room and just love the image it puts out. If I can get that in my theater room.... :) :) :)

Don't get me wrong, I still think the image the DWIN throws is very good and if I could get one bulb to go over 1000 hours on it, I'd be happy. But I'm not, so I need a change. I, too, agree that I wish it had more light output (more on this in a second) and that the contrast was improved.

That's where I run into the wall with the Pearl. I look at the lumens it is rated at and what the DWIN is rated at, and I think my overall brightness is going to go down quite a bit. Not sure though. I look at those images taken (I know, they aren't accurate, but it gives me an idea) and am blown away by it.

What I will miss from the DWIN is the 2 box design. That was genius in itself, and wish all would do that. That was a key selling point for me on the TV3. I see others duplicating the 2 box design, but honestly they just don't grab me like the Pearl is grabbing me right now.

How about you? Have you been researching as well?

I know. I monitored that auction on e bay and was very disappointed that it went for that little. I'd take $2k and run if I could, but I think that will be hard. My bulbs are going out left and right, and I can't figure out why, and neither can DWIN. I'd rather put $450 to a new projector and call it a day.

I currently have a 110" Stewart Studiotek 130 screen. I think I've seen you posting in the Pearl forums, and that's what I'm leaning towards. I have the 50" SXRD in my living room and just love the image it puts out. If I can get that in my theater room.... :) :) :)

Don't get me wrong, I still think the image the DWIN throws is very good and if I could get one bulb to go over 1000 hours on it, I'd be happy. But I'm not, so I need a change. I, too, agree that I wish it had more light output (more on this in a second) and that the contrast was improved.

That's where I run into the wall with the Pearl. I look at the lumens it is rated at and what the DWIN is rated at, and I think my overall brightness is going to go down quite a bit. Not sure though. I look at those images taken (I know, they aren't accurate, but it gives me an idea) and am blown away by it.

What I will miss from the DWIN is the 2 box design. That was genius in itself, and wish all would do that. That was a key selling point for me on the TV3. I see others duplicating the 2 box design, but honestly they just don't grab me like the Pearl is grabbing me right now.

How about you? Have you been researching as well?


Yep, lots of research. Current conclusion: I want to wait for more options!

The Pearl definitely has me interested. But, like you, my biggest concern is brightness, especially since I have a 123" screen!

I agree with you regarding the 2 box solution. This was probably the biggest singe reason I chose the Dwin in the first place.

There is the Optoma HD81 with a 2 box design. But it's offset is very large, and its throw distance is very long. Also, to be honest, I get the feeling that the Optoma's are not exactly the highest quality. There are reports of the fan being loud, and some color shift problems too. Almost everyone who owns one says that the dynamic iris is virtually unusable since it is so loud. On the bright side (pun intended) it is a bright pj, and has gennum processing.

The new JVC, to be released Q1 2007 could be the ticket. Around $7000, it is suppose to be quite a bit brighter than other LCoS displays, and native contrast of 10,000:1 if I remember correctly. I would really like to wait to see the JVC before making any other move.

I posted this on September 22.

It looks like my Dwin has now bit the dust. I turned it on tonight, and everything was fine, even when I first turned it on. If anything, it seemed the problem was getting better as it wasn't doing it nearly as often. Then, after watching for about an hour, it started doing it again. This was strange because before it had always only done it at startup, and then it would go away. It had never started doing it after watching for a while.

Well, it will not go away this time. I have turned it off, gone back 20 minutes later, let it run for 40 minutes etc. but nothing works.

Again, I can best describe it as serious electrical interference going through the picture with horizontal lines that will scroll down the screen, and posturization in a big way. You can also see what looks like pixel structure very easily from normal viewing distances.

Very strange.

Any ideas?

I wonder what Dwin will charge to repair this?


Keeps getting stranger!

As I was preparing to send my PJ to Dwin (after speaking to them about my problem, and confirming they didn't have any idea what the problem could be so I should send it in), I took it down and opened the cover just see if I noticed anything out of the ordinary. Nothing. I gently spun the color wheel just to see if it was spinning freely. Seemed fine. I did take the opportunity to clean out some dust.

I put the pj back in place. Problem still present.

I filled out the Dwin RMA, and explained what the problem was. I decided that I would take pictures of the problem so I would have them to send Dwin in case they said there was no problem (I was going to post the pics here too).

However, when I turned the pj back on to take the pics, it was working perfectly again! :eek: And it's been working perfectly since then. I was literally 5 minutes away from packing up the pj to send to Dwin to be fixed! In fact, if I hadn't decided to take pics of the problem, Dwin would have my pj!

It's been almost 2 weeks since it has been working again. I'm sure the problem will rear its ugly head again though, as it doesn't really make sense that it would just "fix itself" like this. :confused:

For compressed air, be careful what direction you attempt to blow the dust away. Make sure you point the air flow away from everything. When I changed my bulb, I blew out all the dust while I was in there. Unfortunately, I ended up with a couple of dust blobs after that. I had to go back in an do it again to get rid of most of them. Yes, I said most of them. After several attempts, I still have a couple of tiny dust blobs. Thankfully, they are only visible when the screen is total dark, but you have to know where they are to spot them.

I should have left it alone...

Well, I said screw it and bought another bulb yesterday and got it in today. I went into change it and saw some little dust bunnies that I wanted to take care of. As before, I should have left it alone. Where I had NO dust blobs on screen, I have a shitload of them now. God it made me ill tonight to see that. And what I should have done is bought a new projector! :rolleyes:

So, I did small bursts here and there and I have no idea where they are at. It's such a pain in the ass to go unhook everything, dismount, open case and dust. And even then I wont know if I got it all until I put it back up!

Any suggestions? Where to hit the can of air? Where is the chip located? Maybe that's where the dust collected?

I hate this projector even more now. :(

But Chris...tell us how you really feel. ;)

But Chris...tell us how you really feel. ;)

I don't think I've ever had a piece of gear more frustrating than this one. Obviously, I hit my limit last night when I posted as I am even shocked at what I wrote! :p

So many bulbs and nitpicky problems (solarization the main one) I should have just put the thing to rest. But, when it's working, and I'm not replacing the bulb or changing the index to tweak solarization, the image is oh so nice. If track record serves right again with the bulb, I'll have a new projector in March.

Now, if I could only get the dust out of there! Help! :D

Hello- I recently started noticing a pinkish tone to my picture with only 900 hours on my Dwin TV3. It's very noticable when I play my Xbox 360. It's almost like the pictures is darker. Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, how do I fix it? Please PM me the service codes with intructions if you think this might fix. Thanks,
Ryan

Just some thoughts for all to consider...

There was a good reason why I went with a Dwin when I did. It was the 2 box design followed by the picture quality. In a nutshell, that was it. Nothing more.

So, today one has to be considering the latest technologies, such as SXRD and LCD that have matured considerably since we made that decision to go Dwin several years ago. Picture quality of the 1080p is just stunning and now with program material, like BluRay and HDDVD, we can have real source content that takes advantage of the 1080p x 1920 image.

But what about the 2 box design?
Here's my current thinking. There are many new receivers that offer 4 and 5 HDMI plus other component inputs that switch with the receiver inputs. MY Denon is circa 1999 so it is soon due for a technology upgrade but otherwise works fabulous. It is a Denon 5700.
What I may do is wait for another year and then open my choices of 1080p without regard to the two box design but make that upgrade year a new receiver as well.

So when I'm ready for 1080P I will consider the upgrade budget to include:
1. New 1080P projector
2. New HDMI switching receiver/Amp
3. BluRay and HDDVD players.

as a package upgrade. It is not in my budget to do this today and not next year either due to other expenses. But I can see this as a real future for the Dwin replacement.

Presently it looks like my Dwin Bulb budget is about averaging one per year.

Just some thoughts for all to consider...

There was a good reason why I went with a Dwin when I did. It was the 2 box design followed by the picture quality. In a nutshell, that was it. Nothing more.

I agree with this statement 100%. I recall when I first went to look at the Dwin, my biggest hope was that it would simply be close in PQ to the other PJ's I had seen, because the two box design was a very valuable feature. Thankfully the PQ did turn out to be pretty good too.

So, today one has to be considering the latest technologies, such as SXRD and LCD that have matured considerably since we made that decision to go Dwin several years ago. Picture quality of the 1080p is just stunning and now with program material, like BluRay and HDDVD, we can have real source content that takes advantage of the 1080p x 1920 image.

Right. But don't discount how much the Blu-ray and HD-DVD players can help the PQ on your Dwin!

But what about the 2 box design?

The Optoma HD81 has a two box design with Gennum scaler. Unfortunately it not only required an HDMI cable, but a serial cable as well between the scaler box and pj. Not as good as the Dwin's one cable solution.


Here's my current thinking. There are many new receivers that offer 4 and 5 HDMI plus other component inputs that switch with the receiver inputs. MY Denon is circa 1999 so it is soon due for a technology upgrade but otherwise works fabulous. It is a Denon 5700.
What I may do is wait for another year and then open my choices of 1080p without regard to the two box design but make that upgrade year a new receiver as well.

If I get a pj that is not a 2 box design, I would probably just go with something like the Anthem Statment D2, which includes a video processor.

So when I'm ready for 1080P I will consider the upgrade budget to include:
1. New 1080P projector
2. New HDMI switching receiver/Amp
3. BluRay and HDDVD players.

as a package upgrade. It is not in my budget to do this today and not next year either due to other expenses. But I can see this as a real future for the Dwin replacement.

Presently it looks like my Dwin Bulb budget is about averaging one per year.

Good plan. I am tentatively looking at Spring/Summer of 2007 to upgrade. But depending on where things stand in terms of choices this might change.

I thought my Dwin was dying a month ago. Now it is working as good as ever, acting as though it magically repaired itself. The point being, unless it goes on the fritz again, I am going to try to be patient with regard to my upgrade path.

Check out the new Dwin web site.

The TV3 is gone. It has morphed into the TranScanner™ 3

Goobye TV3!!! Hello TV5???

How do I get into the service menu on the TV3+? My reds seem much too maroon and I cannot seem to adjust properly with the tint or saturation controls. Any suggestions?

I don't think you can get into the service menu anymore.

I'm having some problems with my TV3e now. Sometimes when i turn on the projector it does not sync and I just get a white screen. I can unplug the digital connection on the front of the projector and then replug it and I will get a green tinted screen. It's like it may only be using two primaries. If I now turn it off and then turn it back on the projector syncs correctly.

I'm basically having to strike the lamp twice each time I want to use the projector. I hope I can hold out until my JVC RS1 ships.

I don't think you can get into the service menu anymore.

I'm having some problems with my TV3e now. Sometimes when i turn on the projector it does not sync and I just get a white screen. I can unplug the digital connection on the front of the projector and then replug it and I will get a green tinted screen. It's like it may only be using two primaries. If I now turn it off and then turn it back on the projector syncs correctly.

I'm basically having to strike the lamp twice each time I want to use the projector. I hope I can hold out until my JVC RS1 ships.

I think that was true when the TV3e came out and if you got the upgrade. I think you could get to the service menu on earlier versions. Can someone tell me how?

There is nothing in the service menu that will adjust color points, you can only adjust the relative level of R, G and B, so you are stuck with reds as they are.

There is nothing in the service menu that will adjust color points, you can only adjust the relative level of R, G and B, so you are stuck with reds as they are.

OK. So how do I get into the service menu to adjust the relative levels of R, G, B?

FYI-

I returned from a 15 day travel and went to turn on my TV3e, which was working perfectly before I left and it was suffering the symptom of a bad bulb again. ie. The PJ would fire up normally but only stay on for about 3 minutes and then the bulb would go out. So, while it was on for that brief period I managed to check the bulb hours logged in since June 6, 2006. It was 1056 hours. This is the shortest life I have ever experienced on a TV3 bulb. I know some of you got less but I think this is significant with me because I have not changed my viewing habits one bit. That would be turn on once per day for 6-7 hours viewing time. Off periods would be about 5-7 days when I'm traveling; it gets no use.

So today, I ordered another bulb for the TV3e.

BTW- I now have 2 backup projectors. My Main one for the HT is a Panasonic LCD that I bought nearly 2 years ago when the TV3 needed to go back to Dwin for repair and upgrade to TV3e. It was down for about 8 weeks while I made up my mind what to do. Today, I'm back using the Panasonic which only has two switchable HD inputs so it is a bit inconvenient to swap cables now. But I got the picture on the Panasonic nearly as good as the Dwin.
The second backup is a small Dell DLP that I call my Travel Theater. I set it up on my laptop and it projects a nice 4' x 6' screen size on a foldable screen that fits in my suitcase. I also have a tiny speaker system with small subwoofer too. In a pinch should both the Dwin and the Panasonic go down at the same time, I have this to still watch while I wait for bulb repair.

So this brings up an interesting issue, one that I was concerned about years ago as I made the decision to move from my CRT to the bulb PJ technology. That would be the cost of the bulbs. In retrospect, the cost to watch bulb video is really quite high. I'm thinking it is in the range of 1.50 to $2.00 per hour. I'll let the real accountants here correct me but I based that on the bulb costs plus the PJ value reduction over it's life. Bottom line -- bulb video is quite expensive.

So have any of you looked into alternatives? I haven't at this time, just too busy this past year to do any indepth investigation but I believe this may be a good project to do at CES this year. Not that anything is now available but what is on the horizon for us to achieve equal picture quality and maintenance plus lower cost. I know some still preach the CRT but while those are very cheap, IN MY OPINION, they do not have the convenience, nor the PQ of the current digital images I see. So. regardless of the age old arguments from CRT diehards, returning to CRT is not and will not be considered in my future.

LED based pj's are coming Don! :)

LED based pj's are coming Don! :)


I know. Already on my list. Thanks.

Don, any idea as to why bulb life is less? Power supply problems or coolong fans not operating at max effiency?

would be the cost of the bulbs. In retrospect, the cost to watch bulb video is really quite high. I'm thinking it is in the range of 1.50 to $2.00 per hour.

The actual bulb cost with the Dwin is typically $.50 to $.25 per hour. You can't figure depreciation into this figure since it really isn't tied in to hours of use, but to technical advances.

Well after looking at the new pj's particularly the JVC RS1, I think I will hold on to my TV3. I liked the 1080p products but did not find a true night and day difference when viewed from my normal viewing distance (12 Feet).

I would expect a pretty large difference in terms of contrast performance. I am on the pre-buy list for the RS1. Did you not notice a large improvement in contrast over the TV3?

Thanks vegashomes for feedback. I am a satisfied owner of the TV3 and have wondered if 1080p was worth considering.

Was Dwin at CES? Does anyone know if Dwin has plans for an upgrade to our machines to 1080p? Their 2-box design works great for me, and having to run input lines to a ceiling mounted projector would be a real hassle. I'm hoping to simply advance the technology with Dwin w/o a theater re-wire hassle.

Dwin was not at CES! Says something. ????

The need today for a 2 box design is not as important as it once was. There are quite a few receivers today that switch hdmi and you can then run the hdmi video output from there to the PJ in the ceiling. The 2 box design becomes redundant as a switch box for video.

There is absolutely no need to go to 1080p unless you also add one of the two HD DVD or Blu-ray formats to your HT. These two DVD formats are the only source that will show off 1080p

Today at CES I looked at the Panasonic 1080P projector, the AE 1000U. The image on a 110" screen (I believe) was stunning with Blu-ray movies. The price isn't bad either and Panasonic reps were giving out street quotyes at around $4K. By Dwin standards, this is quite inviting. I also looked at the $20K Marantz at the HD DVD theater. To be honest, sitting about the same distance from the screens I felt the Panasonic was equal image quality at less that 1/4 the price!

So, if you are planning to move to HD DVD or Blu Ray, you may want to upgrade the receiver also for audio reasons, and add DD7.1 sound as these disks support that too. IMO, it all ties together.

But back to reality. I'm not in a position to make all those upgrades so from what I saw with the HD format of DVD at the CES show as well as all the 720P vs. 1080P with both DVD forrmats running, I think I will make the DVD upgrade first, then the receiver, and finally a new 1080P projector. I think the quality of the Dwin TV3e image is just too good that the difference would be quite small.

Some of the predictions I( have heard was that HD DVD will take over the lead of movies due to the lower price point and Blu Ray will become a small high priced niche market for those needing high capacity data storage. We'll see.

I love my Dwin TV3 but all this new technology at lower price point is just making me want to upgrade. By 2008 1080P will be mainstream and finding a 720P HD set in the stores will be about as rare as finding a 3 tube CRT RPTV today. But until I do make the move, I know that the improvement in the Dwin will come with 1080P sources and upgrading the PJ itself will offer just a minor improvement. That's why, after CES, I think I will be putting that part of my HT upgrade last priority.

The need today for a 2 box design is not as important as it once was. There are quite a few receivers today that switch hdmi and you can then run the hdmi video output from there to the PJ in the ceiling. The 2 box design becomes redundant as a switch box for video.

Thanks, but that just changes "re-wire hassle" to "cost of upgraded receiver." My family would certainly appreciate no longer having to separately select audio (receiver) and video (TV3) selection so I may be headed there.

If that is your problem, you need to consider a programmable remote control that has nested macro capability. I also recommend using a learning remote rather than the simple code units in case you don't have a code set for your device. I use the Home Theater Master MX800 but it is kind of pricy. However, I walki into the HT and pick up that remote, hit one button and it turns on all the equipment, lowers the screen and dims the lights. Then I punch in DVD or any one of my Receivers and it switches everyting over to that mode and dims the lights all the way down and brings up the exit safety lights and accent lights and then puts the remote in the mode for operating any of the receivers selected or the DVD player. Today, there is no need to have all those remotes or the need to punch in lots of buttons manually in just the right order just to get your system ready for a program source.

Also, I wouldn't recommend spending the bucks for a new receiver just for the HDMI switching. Only do that if you want to upgrade to DD7.1 for these new HD DVD's There is a much better way to add video switching with HDMI today if you don't need or want to jump into a new receiver. But you may want to switch component and VGA as well and then that would get tricky but with a macro remote you can do it too. I switch component on the receiver as well as dwin inputs together plus select either the Dwin or the Panasonic projectors, all using the macros. With these remotes, the prograqmming can get as complex or keep it as simple as you want. The idea, however, is to make the operation of the various pieces simple. The really interesting trick I needed to pull off was the switch over from the Dwin feeding it's PJ to the hdmi input on the Panasonic. There is no fast PJ switch as what I have is more of a primary / backup substitute projector. I have to make the decision which PJ to initiate the HT with. Most of the time, it fires up on the last PJ used when shut down so that extra remote selection rarely needs to be executed.

I believe Dwin has a dongle that you can buy that changes the 3/4" DVI plug over to a standard DVI plug...it may only work for using a DVI cable with the DWIN setup though due to the male/female nature of the 3/4" plug. Worth looking into though...because then you could adapt it for HDMI as well. Wouldn't be the ideal cable with three adapters on it to make it turn into a video only HDMI cable but in theory it would work. Beats tearing up walls etc.

I would expect a pretty large difference in terms of contrast performance. I am on the pre-buy list for the RS1. Did you not notice a large improvement in contrast over the TV3?

Quite honestly from 12 feet away all I noticed was a slight increase in detail and color. It was next to a Sony Ruby and it was noticeably better than the Sony but I commented that my Dwin looks better than the Sony. Not quite sure how honest JVC was with how they set up the Sony

Thanks vegashomes for feedback. I am a satisfied owner of the TV3 and have wondered if 1080p was worth considering.

Was Dwin at CES? Does anyone know if Dwin has plans for an upgrade to our machines to 1080p? Their 2-box design works great for me, and having to run input lines to a ceiling mounted projector would be a real hassle. I'm hoping to simply advance the technology with Dwin w/o a theater re-wire hassle.

To my eyes the improvement was marginal. The comparison set up was with the JVC hd1 which is the consumer model identical to the rs1 pro line. My theory is that for me to spend $6000 I want more than a marginal improvement. Don't get me wrong it is an awesome picture but for me does not warrant getting rid of my Dwin.

To my eyes the improvement was marginal. The comparison set up was with the JVC hd1 which is the consumer model identical to the rs1 pro line. My theory is that for me to spend $6000 I want more than a marginal improvement. Don't get me wrong it is an awesome picture but for me does not warrant getting rid of my Dwin.


Agreed, The devil is in the detail and the native pixel size for a given res. But, overall most will agree the difference in an honest A/B test is marginal.

Unfortunately, many of the A/B tests I saw at the show were rigged in favor of one or the other.

Brent- I once did some "experimenting" with adapters and could not get the DVI out on the TV3 to feed my Panasonic PJ or any other monitor with DVI input. Last year I asked Dwin Tech guy and whuile I had a little difficulty with his accent from what I ubderstand Dwin has some sort of handshake going on to prevent people from connecting non=Dwin monitors to their Dwin twin box system. Maybe the dongle adapter you referenced is what is needed.

Well I guess I'm a sucker because I'm going for the hype and replacing the Dwin with the RS1. I watched The Illusionist on SD DVD last night on the Dwin and the whole time I was thinking how much nicer it would look if the blacks were really black and the haze was lifted off from the low light scenes. In the brighter scenes the SD DVD looked almost HD, but when it goes to the darker scenes the picture degrades rapidly. Also it will be nice to have a quieter projector with little or no light leakage.

I'm not sure how much difference the 1080P will make at my seating distance, but I will probably upgrade to a larger screen. I want to see how bright the RS1 is first, but I would like to go 10' wide.

I like the separate processor on the Dwin and I still have a problem with a single box. I haven't decided whether to buy a video processor($2500+) or look for a new receiver. I'm not really unhappy with the receiver I have now and I don't want to take a step down from my Denon 5800. You would think someone would make a switcher for under $1000 that would
have a similar number of inputs as the video processors, but that is not the case. You need to buy a separate switcher for each type of input.

With the RS1's processing and my XA2 DVD player extra processing is redundant and may not be as good.

I believe Dwin has a dongle that you can buy that changes the 3/4" DVI plug over to a standard DVI plug...it may only work for using a DVI cable with the DWIN setup though due to the male/female nature of the 3/4" plug. Worth looking into though...because then you could adapt it for HDMI as well. Wouldn't be the ideal cable with three adapters on it to make it turn into a video only HDMI cable but in theory it would work. Beats tearing up walls etc.

He's alive? Welcome back Brent!

I so need to call you! :D

Since I plan on upgrading the Dwin soon I thought I would get a light meter and take some measurements. I ordered the AEMC CA813(thanks lovingdvd for the tutorial).

I'm on the preorder for the RS1 and I wanted to compare my Dwin with RS1 measurements from others and take my own measurements if I get the RS1 or something else. I didn't go to extreme effort to get my measurements but I think they are reasonably accurate.

I took the on/off contrast ratio first and came out with a bit over 2200:1. I have the TV3e so this sounds about right to me. This measurement was taken at the center of the screen. ANSI taken about 12" in front of the lens was 160:1. ANSI taken at the screen was between 50 and 60 depending on where I took it. I have a white ceiling and some white cabinets that reflect.

I have about 1500 hours on my current bulb and the projector is only putting out about 155 lumens at the center of the screen. This translates into about 13 FtL with the 2.8 gain screen. The projector still seems plenty bright to me although I am probably seeing even less due to being a bit off axis.

I was worried about the uniformity of the RS1 but my Dwin is probably far worse. I am getting around 50 lux reading at the center of the screen but at the bottom it is about 54. Bottom left is 60. Top of screen is about 48. Right side of the screen is a bit weak being brighter at the bottom. The optical system of my Dwin is either terribly misaligned or of poor design. My projector is table mounted. I could see these brighter areas but had always attributed it to the HiPower screen. When watching a movie I don't notice any uniformity issues.

Interesting info Randall! I am on the RS1 preorder as well. The on/off of 2200:1 isn't too bad at all! But the 155 lumens is even lower than I thought it would be. My bulb has almost the same number of hours on it, so my pj is probably putting out similar numbers, and I am only using a 1.3 gain screen at 123" diagonal! And it does seem a bit dim.

At 13 ftl you are right where you want to be. If I am at 155 lumens, I am only seeing 4.5 ftl!!! :eek:

I also see uniformity issues on my Dwin. Always have, especially in the lower left corner....on both units I have owned (I left my original Dwin at my prior house when I sold it, then replaced it with a used one from a fellow AVS member).

Yeah, I'm ready to upgrade! :)

Is it really fair to take the measurements on a bulb that old? I would like to know how different they would be with a newer bulb.

If I get a new lamp I will take measurements and post them. Although if I get a new projector I may not be too motivated to spend the $450. :)

Personal opinion-

From what I saw at CES2007, I will wait for another year for a 1080P projector. There was just not enough of a WOW factor to justify obsoleting the Dwin TV3e for that much money at this point in time. I believe the 1080P projectors will plummit in price during the year and part of 2008. After 2008 CES will be a much wiser time to buy. Now if you don't have a projector or the Dwin TV3e is broke, and repair is estimated to be very expensive then by all means buy the 1080P, not another 720P at this time.
The lowest price projector I saw in the class that could possible satisfy as a replacement for the Dwin was the New Panasonic, but still just not enough WOW factor! I also looked at the other end of the scale which was the Marantz which priced in at $20K+ Used for the HDDVD group demo theater) and yes it was close to WOW but the price dampened that to stomach nausea! I would never pay that much for a projector to have that quality this year. I can wait!

Please note that I only evaluated these projectors if they were demoing live 1080P video images or high end film all on HD DVD or BluRay. CES was a good place to do that.

It sounds like a number of TV3 owners are getting ready to upgrade like myself but nobody has mentioned upgrading to a new Dwin product. Has anyone heard of anything new coming from Dwin?

I don't think Dwin has anything new. If they do they aren't telling. I've been ready to upgrade for some time now but the right projector hasn't come along until now. Now there are several but I think the RS1 is the best value. After taking measurements from the Dwin it seems the RS1 beats it out even with ANSI. Should be quite an upgrade.

Randall- I have not seen the image quality of the RS1 but I'm sure in 4 years now that JVC has resolved the old black or lack of black in their design. That was the biggest turn off of the older DILA pj's., IMO.

While the price is present day competitive, I wonder about the bulb cost. As I recall the DILA JVC bulbs were about twice the price of the DLP bulbs and didn't last but about 2/3's the DLP predicted lifespan. In my notes, I had the DILA bulb cost at $1 per viewing hour! If you haven't checked that part out, you should. Hopefully they resolved that negative as well.

Steve- I believe that most of us are considering the upgrade of the Dwin to another because it just makes sense to have a projector that can support all that the new HD DVD and Blu Ray disks have to offer. There is a difference in detail and edge definition of the images but not enough to justify the hogh cost of some of the top end 1080P projectors, IMO. There are many who say the benefits of the new HD disks can be seen well enough on a 720P imager and until prices come down a bit are willing to wait. I'm in this camp. Because so many new HD systems are being released in 1080P, I suspect the prices will be quite attractive in about a year. I think to buy today would have not just a 720P to 1080P cost investment but also a cost of the price differential between what it sells for today and a better 3rd generation model in a year. Then again, in a nother year what will the resale value of the Dwin drop to?

Hard to say about the lamp price for the RS1 Don but I know some Japanese sites have them listed for an equivalent to about $200 US. There has been speculation of $300 to $350 for the RS1 lamps in the US. I doubt they last as long as the Dwin lamps. Like you, I have gotten around 3000 hrs from the Dwin lamps.

I'm not buying the RS1 for resolution. I'm buying it to lift the haze from the low IRE scenes. I am always aware of the haze in dark scenes and if the RS1 takes this away I will be happy.

Personal opinion-

From what I saw at CES2007, I will wait for another year for a 1080P projector. There was just not enough of a WOW factor to justify obsoleting the Dwin TV3e for that much money at this point in time. I believe the 1080P projectors will plummit in price during the year and part of 2008. After 2008 CES will be a much wiser time to buy. Now if you don't have a projector or the Dwin TV3e is broke, and repair is estimated to be very expensive then by all means buy the 1080P, not another 720P at this time.
The lowest price projector I saw in the class that could possible satisfy as a replacement for the Dwin was the New Panasonic, but still just not enough WOW factor! I also looked at the other end of the scale which was the Marantz which priced in at $20K+ Used for the HDDVD group demo theater) and yes it was close to WOW but the price dampened that to stomach nausea! I would never pay that much for a projector to have that quality this year. I can wait!

Please note that I only evaluated these projectors if they were demoing live 1080P video images or high end film all on HD DVD or BluRay. CES was a good place to do that.

I fully agree. To be an early adopter at this point will only give you a marginal improvement at best. If this would be a first time pj purchase it would make more sense than from an upgrade viewpoint. My TV3 has an awesome pic and to spend $5-6000 now would not make sense. When the next generation 1080p come out at lower pricing it would make more sense for me.

I fully agree. To be an early adopter at this point will only give you a marginal improvement at best. If this would be a first time pj purchase it would make more sense than from an upgrade viewpoint. My TV3 has an awesome pic and to spend $5-6000 now would not make sense. When the next generation 1080p come out at lower pricing it would make more sense for me.

You don't think a native contrast ratio of 15,000:1 would be more than a "marginal improvement at best" over the TV3??? I bet we are getting less than 1500:1 c/r with the TV3, which means the RS1 would be at least a 10 fold increase in c/r.

Not to mention twice the resolution, and MUCH less screen door effect (which has always been one of the biggest issues to me with the TV3).

Not to mention the fact that the RS1 will have little or no light spill and should be significantly quieter. These are other things that have bothered me about the Dwin.

I'm not knocking the Dwin, as I think it has been a great projector. I'm just ready for something better and I believe the move to the RS1 will be as significant as my move to the Dwin from an LT150.

I watched the JVC from 12' which is my viewing distance with the Dwin. I honestly can say the difference was not startling. My value system would not calculate it as worth spending $6000. Would I spend that much for a quieter PJ when my Dwin is not that noticeable- no did I see a $6000 difference in resolution-no screen door not noticeable with my Dwin, even if you add these all together "my" value system says it is not worth $6000. When it is time for a new pj and/or prices come down I will rethink all of the above.

I watched the JVC from 12' which is my viewing distance with the Dwin. I honestly can say the difference was not startling. My value system would not calculate it as worth spending $6000. Would I spend that much for a quieter PJ when my Dwin is not that noticeable- no did I see a $6000 difference in resolution-no screen door not noticeable with my Dwin, even if you add these all together "my" value system says it is not worth $6000. When it is time for a new pj and/or prices come down I will rethink all of the above.

Everyone has their own "value system". This was my analysis: getting the preorder price on the JVC, and having presold my Dwin to my brother in law for $1500, the JVC is going to cost me $3K, which is only half of the $6000 difference that you mention.

Considering the improvements in performance that I expect in terms of C/R, SDE, noise (dithering), absolute black level, and even color (I still get this minor "solarization" effect in solid redish colors) I definitely think that the investment will be worth it. Heck, I paid $1500 for a standard def DVD player once (Pioneer Elite 59avi)! :eek:

Please note though, like Randall, I have been quite satisfied with my Dwin, and don't regret the purchase at all. It has been a very good projector! Good enough that I can sell my used one to my brother in law in good conscious! :)

This thread's been kind of quiet for a while...

I now have a couple of sources that can create full 1080i material, picked up an HD-DVD player for my XBox 360 last week, and got HD TV for the first time today with a DirecTV H-20 HD satellite receiver. This is the first time in the 3 years I've had the projector that I've had full HD resolution source (been using an SD sat receiver and upconverting Bravo D1 DVD player).

I'm curious how others have them set up for which box does the scaling. I have my XBox 360 set up for 720p output, so 1080i HD-DVD's will be scaled by the XBox.

I have my H-20 set to Resolution 1080 and in Native mode, so that all signals (480P, 720P, and 1080i) are send natively to the TV3 scalar, so the TV3 does all scaling.

I only got both of them recently so haven't played much with different source resolutions and tried the different scalars on different types of material.

Just curious what others have done with these two sources, and if there's any common advice. Also, for calibration, I have Avia DVD but it's of course only 480, would love to have something HD, is there an HD-DVD version available, does DirecTV have a channel I can use, etc - would love to calibrate through the exact inputs and scalars that I'll be using in practice.

I'm also capable of driving the set from the H-20 through either DVI (HDMI with a DVI adapter) or Component, it was installed yesterday and finished off today using component, I can change over to HDMI but was again curious for comments.

The H-20 is actually temporary, it'll be replaced with an HR-20 DVR once my local DirecTV installer has them in stock, so info/experience with the HR-20 would be useful also.

Thanks!

It sounds like a number of TV3 owners are getting ready to upgrade like myself but nobody has mentioned upgrading to a new Dwin product. Has anyone heard of anything new coming from Dwin?

I find it hilarious that everyone in the DWIN thread is talking about upgrading to a different company's projector.

So I thought about getting a backup bulb for the TV3. Looked around the internet and couldn't find any. Looked on the DWIN site and the forms to get one are all gone. Also, they are now showing a TV4 and TV4e on their website. New and better projector? No, doesn't look like it. It's a 720P DLP in a very ugly grey box. So what's the difference?

"accepting 10 digital or analog inputs including six HD sources"

Looks like maybe they have more HD inputs? I think mine has 4 HD inputs... maybe. Maybe they came up with a new sealed light path? Doubtful. Maybe they just found a way to cut more corners and turn a little more profit. Who knows.

Did a little more searching and found this: $6.5k TV4 (utilizing the DC2 TI chip) and the TV4 has no vertical lens shift.

Toxarch. I see you have edited your post so I'm thinking you found the replacement bulb order form. If not here it is http://dwin.com/files/lamp-order-form.pdf

The TV4 has been around for some time now. Dwin has been silent for some time. They didn't show at CEDIA 2006 nor at CES this year. It just makes me wonder what's going on within their company as we all review and experience the next generation of 1080P devices and here nothing from them.

I will probably ordering a bulb for mine also as my TV3E has about 1800hrs. on it. I also have a fan that is starting to make noise on start-up.

Let us know if you here anything new from Dwin.

Info-
Cooling Fans- I found replacement fans in a general parts catalog. While these would be available in absence of Dwin, I recommend at this time buying them direct from Dwin as the price is about the same and the install of Dwin's prewired assembly is easier and quicker than would be rebuilding the harness and transfering the fans to the old bracket.

Bulb- The bulb is definitly an OEM part only available through Dwin. I did quite a bit of research on this. One may be able to rebuild your own bulb with a substitute glass part into the Dwin special mount frame but this is unknown and would be experimental. The power supply is quite sensitive to the startup timing and current changes so any substitute bulb glass may also need some rebuild of the powersupply to make it compatible. I believe those in the past that argued they found a replacement bulb stated so in theory since none of them were able to claim success with actually doing it. If I'm wrong on this please jump in with details on what you did, bulb number and results.

Toxarch- The Dwin TV3e connections does have 6 HD level inputs- 2 DVI, 2 RGBHV, and 2 Component Y, Pr, Pb.

In a former post this thread I gave my assessment of the upgrade process to 1080P which had as it's base reasoning that the Dwin advantage being an equipment rack multi input switcher was nolonger any advantage. In summary, it is because everything that the Dwin could do when it came out by being a 2 piece PJ can be done today in many of the AV receivers. I said I would be upgrading from a 5.1 Denon to a 7.1 with 4 HDMI inputs and then adding a future selected PJ for 1080p. From what I see, 2008 may be my year for that upgrade. Meanwhile, my Dwin TV3e is quite enjoyable and will likely cost me two more bulb replacements before I move to 1080p.

Don- In regards to using a receiver as a switching device. How would you make individual picture adjustments for each source input?

Steve- It's been my experience that the digital domain of TV calibration is well within specs for each device, such as two DVD players, and several DVR's. The RGB and VGA, however, often do vary to some extent in the image calibration, especially the NTSC sources.
So, if your concern is individual calibration for different NTSC sources then, yes, this is a compromise you may have to suffer with. I would say that if you are experiencing extreme differences in your digital HD sources, including SD DVD, via HDMI, then you may consider looking at your system configuration for something flawed, which may include defective source hardware.
In my system, I have a DVR-921, VIP-622, two LG DVD upconvert players, and a TIVO HR10-250 that can all be sourced from DVI/HDMI to both a Dwin and a PanasonicLCD. These all display the exact same video characteristics and the major differences are from software sources such as movies vs. live video, not player sources. Additionally, the color calibration among all these devices is equal between DVI/HDMI and component/VGA. The main differences between these interconnect methods is the picture detail and image softness, not the color characteristics such as black detail, gamma, and luminosity.
Therefore I consider the loss of individual input calibration a very minor loss of feature with the receiver HDMI switching.

Additionally, I was told by a Denon rep at CES that any video input, composite, Y/C, component or HDMI can be routed to the HDMI out. I never thought to ask if the expensive Denon also allows for individual input calibration. I know the audio can be set up for each calibration input, I can do the with my present Denon.

I'm sure there are those who will disagree with my assessment above, just like there are those who believe that component is better quality than HDMI. For that person, I say continue with what you find works to make you happy. :)

You Guys Who Are Interested In Buying A New Bulb With Dwin, Take A Look In Ebay. Look For Dwin And You Will Find Some Guys Who Sell You Replacement Lamps For The Dwin Projector At 30 To 60% Lower Than Dwin Bulb. Is That Worth It? I Do Not Know Considering I Do Not Know The Quality Of These Other Bulbs. Check It Out.

I'm with Don I feel that my TV3 is highly enjoyable and the price of a new bulb makes more sense right now than a new projector.
I might have a chance to a/b a TV3 and a RS1, so maybe I will change my mind.

Steve, thanks for the link. The edit was for the price info on the TV4.

I heard DWIN caused a lot of problems a while ago when they changed their knowledgeable reps with people who don't know squat and never visit the dealers. I also heard that the owner (also head of sales/chief designer/head everything) cussed out a few dealers who called to complain about the long DWIN service on some repairs they were waiting on. The owner cussed them out and told the dealers not to sell their products anymore and closed their accounts with DWIN. It's been downhill ever since.

Don, thanks for the info. I had forgotten about the 2 RGBHV inputs since I never use them.

As for upgrading, I can wait to do that. I will wait for the HD disks to become standardized if they decide either Blu-Ray or HD-DVD. And I will also wait for the price of the players to drop a bit. I'm alright with my setup for now and don't want to be an early adopter. Once all that has settled a little, then come the player purchase and new 1080P projector. This projector was purchased about the same time Don bought his and I'm still on the original bulb.

This projector was purchased about the same time Don bought his and I'm still on the original bulb.

Holy molie! You must never watch it! I lost count of how many bulbe I've been through. :)
But I've been averaging between 1800 and 4500 hours. Lately, it seems the bulbs don't last as long. I will say that the original tech guys at Dwin were not very friendly but the last guy I worked with on my powersupply issue was pretty good. I just had some difficulty communicating with him due to his heavy accent. And, I had a chance to meet him at CES.

As far as I'm concerned, Dwin has always been "not so friendly" toward customers/end users so if Dwin is now that way toward dealers then it is probably going to be the death of their future. Besides, I doubt the company is set to continue in absence of the main man anyway. We all bought Dwin because of performance back then and today, there are soo many really good performers that Dwin is not so much a big deal. Times change you know.
So, Toxarch, I would say Dwin has been going downhill since we became associated with them. :(

Plus they made some pretty bad decisions in product line design in recent years. The dual system and the overpriced Plasma was the real killer, IMHO.

Re- RGBHV- The last I used that was on my PVR921 from Dish Network. Nice to have since I was getting tapped out on inputs.


Finally- just a word of caution to anyone considering buying a new PJ- When you look at the pros and cons of different models and makes, be sure to factor in the bulb running cost based on the projected run time and your usage rate. If you are like me, it can be significant. If like Toxarch- probably not. eg. I bought a small Dell DLP travel projector for $1000 but the darn bulb cost is $400! I hiope that lasts for awhile!

This projector was purchased about the same time Don bought his and I'm still on the original bulb.

Holy molie! You must never watch it! I lost count of how many bulbe I've been through. :)
But I've been averaging between 1800 and 4500 hours. Lately, it seems the bulbs don't last as long. I will say that the original tech guys at Dwin were not very friendly but the last guy I worked with on my powersupply issue was pretty good. I just had some difficulty communicating with him due to his heavy accent. And, I had a chance to meet him at CES.
!

I thought they did not come to CES this year. What were they showing?

Sorry for the confusion, My trouble was back in 2005, as in CES 2005. DWIN did not show up at CES2006, at least with a booth.

Don.....

First I want to thank you for your thoroughness on this DWIN TV3 thread.

Like Toxarch, I bought my TV3 around the same time as you....and I just replaced my first bulb too!!!

Get this: 1,956 hours!

Anyhow, i changed the bulb easily, vacuumed out dust, and then gently blasted some air at the mirrors and lenses.

My other problem is identical to one you had a while ago: the center fan (that cools the lamp assembly) was grinding. It would do it upon startup, then stop, but lately it was doing it all the time. So I took the fan out, cleansed and lubed and it was silent. I screwed it back and it stays silent.

I re-assembly and install the pj...turn it on....you guessed it: grind! But this time it went away. At this point I am not sure if it will been a first 30 seconds kind of thing again or not.

From an earlier thread, you traced the source of the noise to the friction where that fan is mounted. You said to leave 1/32" of space, but I wasn't certain where, or how. Can you help me?

I have another topic, but I will put it in a separate post next.

Like many TV3 owners, I have been extremely happy with the overall PQ and the 2-box ease of connection, but of course I always keep an eye open for the latest and greatest. Nonetheless, this pj never fails to impress guests.

I have a relatively low ceiling and the pj can be a bit on the noisy side, but normally I am cranking the sound anyhow.

So I just bought a new bulb, and will be staying with the Dwin for at least a bit, but since I was evaluating the pros and cons of the "new stuff," I wanted to throw out a question to people like me:

Has anyone actually done a direct a/b comparison between their TV3 and say the Sony's (Pearl and Ruby) or the new JVC RS1 ? Same room, sources, etc.

I have yet to see these new pj's, but anytime i see other new models at dealers, between the light control or poor calibration or bad source material or bad screen, I go away thinking, "my TV3 is better!"

But I know when HD DVD or BluRay shakes out, I will end up getting a 1920 x 1280 pj. I am kinda tempted to get the Pearl (love the QUIET idea, and it appears to be a bargain), and sell my Dwin to my brother-in-law. However.....then our great 2-box solution makes me think twice when i think about all the rewiring necessary etc....

Any other thoughts on a natural migration path???

Robster- That fan needs a clearance around the exhaust and the bulb housing opening. You may have noticed it was silicone RTV'd originally to maintain that clearance. The fan by itself makes a tiny bit of noise when it runs but when it touches the bulb housing, that tuny noise seems to amplify. You don't want it to touch the housing or the noise begins. Hope that was clear enough.

Hi guys!!! I have about 500 hours on my TV3e. I think I will put more hrs on it now because I bought a A2 HDDVD and the thing is GREAT!!! I do have one questions, my A2 is set to output "Up to 1080i", but I always get 720p on the Dwin!!! Am I doing something wrong or is this the way it is suppose to work?

I am selling my TV3 to my brother in law. He need the DVI cable from Dwin. 25 feet is plenty. How much is this cable?

Hi guys!!! I have about 500 hours on my TV3e. I think I will put more hrs on it now because I bought a A2 HDDVD and the thing is GREAT!!! I do have one questions, my A2 is set to output "Up to 1080i", but I always get 720p on the Dwin!!! Am I doing something wrong or is this the way it is suppose to work?

Regardless of your source, your Dwin will convert to it's native pixel for display. That is 720P x 1280. Theoretically, you are feeding the Dwin better quality than it can display. This is why many are looking to upgrade to the new 1080Px1920 projectors.

Rob I may have 1 DWIN cable in stock...PLEASE take it for cheap...otherwise it'll be a dinosaur in inventory in a couple years :)

Just send me an email...it's either 25 or 35' long...

Hi guys!!! I have about 500 hours on my TV3e. I think I will put more hrs on it now because I bought a A2 HDDVD and the thing is GREAT!!! I do have one questions, my A2 is set to output "Up to 1080i", but I always get 720p on the Dwin!!! Am I doing something wrong or is this the way it is suppose to work?

I think it is best to send it 720P. The Dwin processor doesn't have to rescale.

Rob I may have 1 DWIN cable in stock...PLEASE take it for cheap...otherwise it'll be a dinosaur in inventory in a couple years :)

Just send me an email...it's either 25 or 35' long...

Cool! :cool:

Email sent (to the business address).

I spoke with Dwin and they said I should be getting 1080i, they promised to look into it and call me back. On my Dish box, I get 1080i on all HD channels. I just want to make sure it is not a problem with the Toshina A2. Thanks. MJC.

I think it is best to send it 720P. The Dwin processor doesn't have to rescale.
Wouldn't the Dwin processor be better at doing the scaling?

It probably doesn't make much difference with 1080i material. Try both and see which you like better.

I just checked on my XA2 and when it is set at up to 1080i, then the output is 1080i. Same for up to 720p or 1080p, it outputs 720p and 1080p. If you are watching an SD DVD then you wouldn't want to scale the image up to 1080 and then back down to 720, so the best setting would be the up to 720p. I leave mine set to 720p for all material.

It probably doesn't make much difference with 1080i material. Try both and see which you like better.

I just checked on my XA2 and when it is set at up to 1080i, then the output is 1080i. Same for up to 720p or 1080p, it outputs 720p and 1080p. If you are watching an SD DVD then you wouldn't want to scale the image up to 1080 and then back down to 720, so the best setting would be the up to 720p. I leave mine set to 720p for all material.

That's what I expected my A2 to do. I will be passing the A2 along to my Dad, and I will buy a XA2. Hope that one will output the correct res.

MJC

I have a spare Dwin cable also. Unused, still in the original unopened box. Either 40 or 50 feet.

PM me if anyone is interested.

A friend of mine has offered to sell me a Dwin TV3 which has approximatly 2000 hours on it. It was working fine in his installation (I saw it before we installed his new Ruby) but unfortunately when I got it to my home the lamp would only run for approximately a few minutes. After several phone calls to Dwin before I finally got a return call, they informed me it would likely need a new lamp. My concern about purchasing this projector is not only the price of a new bulb but the possibility of having to send it to them for repair. I admit I am tempted to just sell it as is for my friend and continue to save my money for a HD and quieter projector. Any opinions? Anybody interested in buying it? Thanks, tom

A friend of mine has offered to sell me a Dwin TV3 which has approximatly 2000 hours on it. It was working fine in his installation (I saw it before we installed his new Ruby) but unfortunately when I got it to my home the lamp would only run for approximately a few minutes. After several phone calls to Dwin before I finally got a return call, they informed me it would likely need a new lamp. My concern about purchasing this projector is not only the price of a new bulb but the possibility of having to send it to them for repair. I admit I am tempted to just sell it as is for my friend and continue to save my money for a HD and quieter projector. Any opinions? Anybody interested in buying it? Thanks, tom
Make sure all cables are properly seated , if the pj worked at your friends house it should work the same at yours. I love my TV3 and on the RS1 forum a former TV3 owner even says his old Dwin betters the new JVC in some ways.

Thanks. I have actually removed the covers and checked all the cables. Nothing obvious. Also, the lamp that is in has about 1200 hours on it..

Make sure all cables are properly seated , if the pj worked at your friends house it should work the same at yours. I love my TV3 and on the RS1 forum a former TV3 owner even says his old Dwin betters the new JVC in some ways.

That was me. My TV3e did look better in some ways but not overall. I think the Dwin was the best in its class when it first arrived and still holds up well today.

The RS1 has a problem with oversaturation of colors and this does not bother everyone but it does bother me. I'm hoping as the lamp ages and I go to a larger maybe lower gain screen the RS1 colors won't look as saturated.

I believe my Dwin excelled in producing accurate skin tones which is very important to me. Depending on the source material the RS1 looks great sometimes and other times the faces look too reddish brown or yellow.

Also in higher APL scenes the Dwin produced a more 3D looking picture. I believe this is partially because the RS1 is so bright with my screen gain and size, and I have light colored areas on the walls with white ceiling that is killing the ANSI. The Dwin is much dimmer and doesn't suffer from the light wash effect as much.

Having said this, with good source material the RS1 produces incredible detail and a picture that the Dwin can't really compete with.

Any plans byu Dwin for a 1080p PJ?
FREAK!

DWIN is MIA re 1080p.

I wonder what keeps Dwin afloat these days? They sure made some bad business moves the past couple of years. I do believe their last good product was the TV3 and it's children. That Plasma was a real bomb as well as the dual output switcher that only worked with their monitors.

Has anyone sold a TV3 lately? I would guess it's worth $500 or so? I ask so as not to rip off my brother-in-law!!

I am going with an Optima HD81 i think.(the 2-box solution!) ...although maybe a panny AE1000...or the RS-1..or....

Funny, I sold mine to my brother in law as well....for more than $500.

I personally would stay away from the Optoma.....

Please Rob...tell us more about the HD81 as it compares to the YV3...I promise this is not bait :)

Why stay away?

I can't!! I just am spoiled by the 2 box solution of the tv3 that I put that on the top of my list...and after reading a few reviews.

But..I have not seen it yet, and can't buy anything until I do.

I would like to know what TV3 owners moved up to, and how it compared.


hey Rob...that's what brothers-in laws are for!!!! :) not that i think about it, i have new bulb with only 50 hours on it....that's worth $350 by itself!!

Please Rob...tell us more about the HD81 as it compares to the YV3...I promise this is not bait :)

Why stay away?

Easy. Read Greg Roger's review, and read the owners thread from that last couple of months. :eek:

Hey Rob, this never ending thread is 80 pages...the HD81 thread is 140 pages...no thanks...I'm not touching that with a 10 foot pole :)

Do you have a link to the review.

The real reason I ask is that I've had zero issues with the ones I've installed although I have moved to the RS1 for most of my installs now.

Just looking for the nutshell info...

thanks!

Hey Rob, this never ending thread is 80 pages...the HD81 thread is 140 pages...no thanks...I'm not touching that with a 10 foot pole :)

Do you have a link to the review.

The real reason I ask is that I've had zero issues with the ones I've installed although I have moved to the RS1 for most of my installs now.

Just looking for the nutshell info...

thanks!

Well, I don't want to ruffle any feathers since I don't own an HD81 myself (I was considering one...especially since it has the two box solution like the Dwin) but there are MANY owners in the HD81 thread who have had numerous problems. Some have been through 3 different projectors. Greg Rogers review basically came down to the fact that the Optoma did not meet many of it's specs, most importantly brightness and contrast ratio. And of course the dynamic iris is completely worthless.

I think you should consider yourself lucky if you haven't had problems with the ones you have installed! :eek:

P.S. Greg's review requires a paid subscription to WSR.

Brent-

Here is a thread on Greg Rogers review. This is only 2 pages long, so it should give you a good idea of what Greg found in his review.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=805785

Hi all,
Quick question: what is the native resolution of the TV3E? I know it is 1280X720, but what is the frame rate so that I can dial it in on my NEW Anthem D2?
Thanks
FREAK!

Hi all,
Quick question: what is the native resolution of the TV3E? I know it is 1280X720, but what is the frame rate so that I can dial it in on my NEW Anthem D2?
Thanks
FREAK!

It should be 60hz. I do not think 24 or 48 was common at the time this model was being produced. I think I do remember it may do 72 which is a multiple of 24 for film so give 48 and 72 ( I do not know if the Anthem offers 72 ) a try you may get lucky. Lets us know how you make out.

Cool, thanks Alan
I have 30 pages of Copyright law to get through then I will play with it.
FREAK!

Don't know about you guys but I still find the image from my TV3 to be awesome.

Don't know about you guys but I still find the image from my TV3 to be awesome.

Sorry, but it doesn't hold a candle to the JVC RS1 in my humble opinion.

My brother in law bought my TV3 so I still have access to it. He thinks it's great and is really enjoying it. I just smile and agree with how great it looks, but I am being polite! ;)

Rob- as yopu know I felt the TV3 was the second best PJ on the market when it came out. But today, I agree with you that there are better PJ's out there for less money. I have a Panasonic here that has a brighter more stunning picture. However, The TV3 still integrates into my HT system better than anything I have found. When I upgrade to 1080p I have decided I'll need to consider a new receiver with built in HDMI switching to accomodate the loss of the Dwin switcher.

Rob- as yopu know I felt the TV3 was the second best PJ on the market when it came out. But today, I agree with you that there are better PJ's out there for less money. I have a Panasonic here that has a brighter more stunning picture. However, The TV3 still integrates into my HT system better than anything I have found. When I upgrade to 1080p I have decided I'll need to consider a new receiver with built in HDMI switching to accomodate the loss of the Dwin switcher.

Yep.

I went with an Anthem Statement D2 processor, which gives me much more than just HDMI switching.....but it doesn't come cheap! :eek:

Hopefully have a few lurkers still reading this thread...

I was watching a movie tonight on my TV3, when I started getting extreme solarization across the entire picture (including in the black bars) with lots of flashing, even with the movie paused. Totally unwatchable.

Shutting down the projector and restarting fixed it for about 10 min, then it started again. Projector seems to make a little more noise when starting.

I assume this isn't bulb (as I have plenty of brightness), is it perhaps a stuck colorwheel or something like that?

Worth fixing, or time to get something else?

Any homegrown solutions worth trying?

I did remove the cooling fans and repack the bearings when they were giving me grief a while back. Wouldn't mind getting through the holiday season before having to research and get a new projector / processor etc. - I've been enjoying the TV3 and have been totally out of the loop for what the current choices and tradeoffs are.

After not using the Dwin for 3 weeks (hospital stay) I returned to find the bulb blown when I fired it up. It had 1900 hours on the last one.

I am hesitant to purchase another bulb for this TV3e at this time. I got a good run of enjoyment from it but as I have an excellent Panasonic backup rolling and have taken delivery on a new BenQ 1080P with 24p processor and HD DVD / Blue Ray stuff, (Haven't installed yet) I find spending on another bulb tough to do.

What are your opinions... Should I get the Dwin working with a new bulb and sell the Dwin? Don't even know it's present day value.

What are your opinions... Should I get the Dwin working with a new bulb and sell the Dwin? Don't even know it's present day value.

It's probably worth about twice the cost of the bulb.

I am trying to figure out a problem between my TV3+ and a Pace TDC775D. I have a cable that hooks the HDMI from the cable box to the DVI on the Dwin. I do not have a handshake problem only interference in the singnal. Horz lines moving from bottom to top. Short ones on the side and longer ones across the rest of the picture.

Any ideas? The Pace guy suspects the HDMI cable. It is new out of the box Mid grade type cable.

Kevin
I replugged the cable with both systems on and now it works. I will post if this problem returns.

I now have an issue with a picture shift between HD channels. I can adjust any given channel into frame but when I change channels the picture shifts. Any ideas?

Like many others, I may consider replacing my Dwin projector (TV4). I was looking at retrofit options, but the installers only ran the Dwin proprietary cable to the projector location so I either have to use this cable or cut the wall and ceiling to fit more cabling to the projector location. I came across a mention of the DVI-C-2 adapter in the DuoVision manual. Will this work with a non-Dwin projector if I get (ugghh) a 2nd adapter for this to turn the connection into a kludgy HDMI connection?

Anyone have one of these adapters that they would be willing to sell? Will it work with an HDMI adapter for hooking up another projector?

I only have the Dwin cable running to the Dwin projector and don't want to rerun other cabling. I was also hoping to use the transcanner for switching with the new projector. Anyone tried this?

Thanks in advance.

I have had varying results running HDMI over this cable. It may work, it may not.

Since the Transcanner only puts out 720P you wouldn't want to use it if your new PJ is 1080p

Thanks for the input. I assumed that the Transcanner could put out 1080i. I know the projector runs at 720p, but I thought the transcanner could essentially pass all signals up to 1080i based on the specs of the various types of transcanner configurations for other Dwin projects.

I just don't like the other option of cutting up the walls and ceiling again. I don't know whether to be mad at the installation company for not running extra cabling about 18 months ago or mad at Dwin for not suggesting to make additional runs for future use.

Of course no conduit was run on this retrofit install so pulling any wiring through this channel will be difficult, if not unsuccessful.

I am in the same boat.

I am very happy with the TV3 that I've had for over 4.5 years. As with such things, I've been bit with the upgrade bug. I loved the idea of running 1 proprietary DVI cable but see that was a fleeting one. I've see that there are HDMI over cat 5 which might be easier to run and then you'd only need a transceiver/receiver at each end to get around wiring issues....this may also give you a longer run if necessary...I'd have to double check the distance limitations for doing this. I need to run atleast 40 ft since that's what DVI cable I have in my wall/ceiling.

I wish though Dwin would come out with a drop in replacement for the box and PJ, have a boat load of HDMI and run it over the DVI cable (which I think is a dual link??) which might support 1080i/p video...I'm not an expert..so somebody else please chime in.

It sucks to support a boutique company that hasn't had any updates in several years. Kinda like my Lexicon MC8...:(

It would be great to use the DWIN only cable (rounded "DIN" type plug) with some sort of converter but I suspect it will be an expensive pull wire for your new projector...

I have an issue with my TV3+. Bright light no pic. Screen motor starts but then stops (12V trigger from Transvision to electric screen upon PJ power on).

Everything worked before. I "re-racked" everything and I'm 578% positiive (that ain't bad) it is done correctly. There just isn't that many options to screw up!

Is there some enternal fuse or reset on the Transvision? Maybe the color wheel has stopped spinning (PJ is still quite loud during power on cycle)?

Suggestions?

Sorry to hijack your cable plight...

Thanks for the input. I assumed that the Transcanner could put out 1080i. I know the projector runs at 720p, but I thought the transcanner could essentially pass all signals up to 1080i based on the specs of the various types of transcanner configurations for other Dwin projects.



The version of the Transcanner that was sold separately had an adjustable output but the model that shipped with the TV4 was fixed at 720P.

After not using the Dwin for 3 weeks (hospital stay) I returned to find the bulb blown when I fired it up. It had 1900 hours on the last one.

I am hesitant to purchase another bulb for this TV3e at this time. I got a good run of enjoyment from it but as I have an excellent Panasonic backup rolling and have taken delivery on a new BenQ 1080P with 24p processor and HD DVD / Blue Ray stuff, (Haven't installed yet) I find spending on another bulb tough to do.

What are your opinions... Should I get the Dwin working with a new bulb and sell the Dwin? Don't even know it's present day value.


Wow! It doesn't seem like that long ago that we were all geeking out about getting our new TV3s! Now we're debating whether it is worth the cost of a replacement bulb. Time really moves.

I was in the same boat recently and found a company out of New York that refurbishes bulbs for about half the cost. I had an extra bulb so sent it in to be refurbished. I think it was about $200 and I now have about 200 hours on the new (refurbished) bulb with no complaints. Here's their contact info:

"Please contact us with any questions. (631) 244-0051 ext. 104 or relamping@verizon.net. "

After installing the new bulb, I didn't use a light meter or anything to verify it is to the same exact specifications as the mfgr's bulb, but it looks really good to my eyes. Its definitely a better option than purchasing a new bulb from DWIN.

Hope this helps.

Chad

I have my DWIN TV3e going up for sale here soon in the marketplace.

I'll probably ask $800 or so for it...if I can even get that. :(

I know that the original specs for the TV3 (I have an original, never upgraded) was 1200 lumens, did anyone ever test its actual calibrated output? I couldn't find it in this thread.

Mine is having problems (see earlier) with unwatchable solarization, sometimes the projector will run a couple hours before it happens, sometimes 10 minutes. I suspect it's heat-related as shutting it down for a while will usually let it work for a while before happening again.

I have a very large screen (137") in a dark room, I'm see a lot of the newer single-chip 1080p projectors with measured lumens in the 600 range, I'd like to understand the brightness compared to my TV3, as I wouldn't want to drop the brightness any, and preferably be able to bump it.

Could of course go to a 3-chip, but I'd love to stick with a single-chip 1080p DLP (or SXRD) for budget reasons (ie. keep the list under $10K).

Would anybody have the pinout of the 13 Din connector on the PJ side. I've been researching a 13 Din Female to HDMI connector. It doesn't look that bad so I'd like to give it a try before I start ripping into my walls/ceilings again.

I know that the original specs for the TV3 (I have an original, never upgraded) was 1200 lumens, did anyone ever test its actual calibrated output? I couldn't find it in this thread.

Mine is having problems (see earlier) with unwatchable solarization, sometimes the projector will run a couple hours before it happens, sometimes 10 minutes. I suspect it's heat-related as shutting it down for a while will usually let it work for a while before happening again.

I have a very large screen (137") in a dark room, I'm see a lot of the newer single-chip 1080p projectors with measured lumens in the 600 range, I'd like to understand the brightness compared to my TV3, as I wouldn't want to drop the brightness any, and preferably be able to bump it.

Could of course go to a 3-chip, but I'd love to stick with a single-chip 1080p DLP (or SXRD) for budget reasons (ie. keep the list under $10K).



I have been running two PJ's for quite some time, the Dwin TV3e and the Panasonic LCD as a backup. I can tell you that with my matte white gain 1.0 screen, 92" wide, the Dwin is the dimmest PJ. The Panasonic LCD is considerably brighter and the image, once calibrated is as good as or better than the Dwin. I think the Dwin offers better control over geometry and has other feaqtures which add to the price but the Dwin was never really a very bright image when side by side to some others built 2 years later.

Now this year I retired the Dwin to replace with a BenQ 1080p projector and I'll just quote my wife when she first saw it. "WOW!" I was playing Phantom of the Opera HD DVD as the demo and the brightness is good enough to run the HT in subdued daylight! It is amazingly brighter. I'm not going to list specs here, just a perception of brightness as pper your query.
The BenQ is a one piece PJ but I bought a special 35 ft. HDMI cable that can handle the new frequency spec. and use a DVDO 50 pro processor that can switch 4 HDMI with component RGB and Y/C video to the HDMI PJ feed. IT is a good replacement for the Dwin 2 box design.

I would not say 1080p is for everyone but if considering any of the HD DVD or Blu Ray it is a must.

The downside of the new 1080P hardware, at least what I am using, is that it is very slow. The BenQ takes nearly 2 minutes to fire up after turn on. The DVD players can take up to 4 minutes to play from cold start. THis is annoying but the performance makes up for it.

PS- My Dwin TV-3e is sitting in the corner with a blown bulb. I don't know what to do with it but I do know it is history in my HT. My backup remains the Panasonic LCD PJ for now. Technology moves on!

... Now this year I retired the Dwin to replace with a BenQ 1080p projector and I'll just quote my wife when she first saw it. "WOW!" ... I'm not going to list specs here, just a perception of brightness as per your query.

The BenQ is a one piece PJ but I bought a special 35 ft. HDMI cable that can handle the new frequency spec. and use a DVDO 50 pro processor that can switch 4 HDMI with component RGB and Y/C video to the HDMI PJ feed. IT is a good replacement for the Dwin 2 box design. ...

Thanks, this is very helpful. I can hopefully find the BenQ ANSI lumens 65K spec somewhere. What's your wild-a** guess on brightness difference, 1.5x, 2x?

I'm also struggling with the 2-box issue. I have a large room (17.5 x 35) with the projector mid-ceiling mounted and of course it was done (by previous owner) with no chase for running cables, having a single AV cable is a huge boon.

I'm currently thinking upgrading to a Denon 5308ci (from a 4800) to do upconversion of all sources to 1080p and pulling a single HDMI 1.3 cable. I haven't looked enough to see if it'll handle my PC input as well as other video sources (Sony + Bravo D1 DVD players, XBox 360, XBox, Windows MCE PC, DirecTV HR-20, and an old VHS VCR I use every once in a blue moon).

P.S. I assume it's the BenQ W10000. BenQ quotes 1200 lumens (same as Dwin quoted on the TV3).

The projectorcentral review (http://www.projectorcentral.com/benq_w10000.htm) states
The W10000 is a bright projector, when compared to its direct competition. Our test unit measured 650 ANSI lumens in Home Theater mode, with the lamp on high and the manual iris fully open. With the iris closed halfway, our test unit measured 500 ANSI lumens, but had a much deeper black level. In low lamp mode, lumen output dropped about 20%, to 377 ANSI.

which mode and iris setting do you run yours in?

Also, is this still in production? I see a list price iof $9999 but for sale new for under $4K at the two resellers linked to from the projectorcentral review. I haven't spent much time researching new projectors (was thinking of trying to struggle through until after CES), but this looks awful interesting...

HI All,
I am seeing the ghosting around white letters on black background. Any solution to this problem. I tried searching this massive thread and did not come up with anything.
Thanks
FREAK!

HI All,
I am seeing the ghosting around white letters on black background. Any solution to this problem. I tried searching this massive thread and did not come up with anything.
Thanks
FREAK!

You've owned this projector for how long and you are just now noticing this? :confused:

Many felt that this issue was exacerbated by larger offsets. Minimizing the offset seemed to reduce the issue.

Hello All,

I, too, just retired my TV3. It was one of the very first shipped and I never had it upgraded. Went through about four bulbs. I have replaced it with the new Marantz VP-15S1. There's no question that the Marantz is a really nice PJ and a big improvement over the Dwin on most material, however, buying this new, semi-state of the art PJ to replace my Dwin made me realize what a good PJ the Dwin is. The Dwin served me very well for many years and, quite frankly, I could have been perfectly happy with it for years to come if I didn't have the same sickness that many of you have that you have to have the latest and greatest thing.

I've really appreciated everyone's input over the years and help whenever I had a question. This thread has been a great resource. Don, thanks for starting it.

Enough nostalgia. Thanks all.

Chad

I just replaced my 4.5 year old TV3 with a black pearl....RIP.

It was a great PJ and it did its duty like a champ...still have the original bulb in it with about 350 hours...needless to say its practically brand new...:)

I just read something a while back with a "another two weeks" reference and made me chuckle..

Thanks to all for their efforts and advice.

Happy new year!

Has the TV3 come out yet?:D

Have to chime in here......hard to believe how time flies! I was also one of the early buyers of the TV3.

Like many here, it seems like the black Pearl is the transition of choice. Bang for the buck.

I am ready to upgrade, but I just recently tweaked my Dwin to perfection...blew out the dust, quieted the fans...and that pj is still excellent!

The Sony will be better is so many ways I know, and one of my primary motivations is the quiet fan noise, given the placement of my pj.

So thanks Don for originating this thread and for all the helpful advice over the years from you and everyone else........sniffle....sniffle...

I have my DWIN TV3e going up for sale here soon in the marketplace.

I'll probably ask $800 or so for it...if I can even get that. :(

So how much did you wind up getting for it Chris?

The Sony will be better is so many ways I know, and one of my primary motivations is the quiet fan noise, given the placement of my pj.


Not to hijack the thread....but this was one of the only cons to the TV3. The black pearl is whisper quiet. I too have it relatively close to the sweet spot so the quietness is definitely a noticeable (or not noticeable) effect.

Hi folks, I'm having problem with my TV3 just this week (talk about bad timing). 30 minutes after turning on the projector the lamp goes off but the projector power is still on. I can still turn off/on the projector using the remote. This symptom is very consistent whether I wait it out for several hours or a day. I also ordered a new lamp and replaced it but it didn't help. The previous lamp had only 400 hrs in it. I'm in a panic mode right now because I'm suppose to be hosting the superbowl party this year with my friends and we don't have a backup tv with a decent size.

Has anyone ever encountered such problem before? I just need a workaround at least runs for 5 hrs just for the superbowl. I'll definitely ship this to dwin after superbowl. Anything that I should check like internal fan, fuse, etc. Need your help guys. Thanks.

twelly-

Been there. Sorry but I have had that behavior at leat 4 times. It was always fixed with a new bulb. You might get Dwin to overnight a bulb to you for $aturday delivery. I could say that is the cost of throwing a Superbowl party but that would be mean. I had considered a party here but with all that has been going on in my life and not being that big of a Superbowl fan, I gave it a pass.

Hi Don,

Thanks for a quick response. Actually, I did replace the lamp with a brand new one. I ordered it on Wed and arrived yesterday. Same problem. So the problem is something else. On the lamp cover it mentioned of a fuse. Is it possible that the fuse is blown? I haven't checked the fan near the lamp. I'll check it out tonight when I get home. What could be the other reason for the lamp shutting off and the lamp is brand new. I'm suspecting the lamp is over heating. If the projector itself is overheating usually by design the projector will shutdown. But in my case only the lamp is turning off but the projector is still running.

If the bulb comes on it is not a fuse. Maybe it is a thermal (heat) issue. Did you check to see that the fans are clean and operating?

Hi Vegas,

Yes, that would be the next thing I will check tonight when I get home. I also emailed DWIN tech support. They replied and will give me a call sometime today. I'm hoping they will provide me a workaround or perhaps a loaner unit. ;) We'll see. Thanks.

Hi,

I got a call from DWIN tech support today. They said the only possibility that my projector will still be running while the lamp is off is due to thermal shutdown. They asked me to check all the fans. If one of the fans is not running (either defective or stuck due to dust) then the internal temperature will rise up and eventually the power to the lamp will turn off. The workaround they provided is to let it run without the hushbox (since I am currently using a hushbox) or remove the cover and use a desk fan to blow air into the projector, hoping it will run for 3-4 hrs without shutting down. I'm gonna try this tonight and crossing my fingers. Go Pats!

twelly- Here are some additional things you can do to run tests.-

Remove the projector from your mount and set it up on a table. Don't need the DVI cable connected. You can plug the PJ unit in and then with the remote control turn it on and watch the bulb come on, fans running and the color wheel running up to speed.

Back in the thread somewhere I talked about this. Next you can remove the PJ top and see everything running. There is a small fan just to the right of the color wheel that keeps the front part of the light box cool in addition to the big one in the back center.
The sensor for heat is toward the front of the bulb box and is mounted near the top. This is nothing more than a thermal switch but I can't recall which way it works. You can check it with an ohm meter. I had bypassed that thermal switch to do testing and it was not the problem. I never had to replace it. There are other current sensors in the powersupply that detect the proper fire up sequence for the bulb. It sounds more like that is not your problem and like Dwin said it is a heat issue. I would try to run the PJ on the table top to see if artificial cooling like the top off but be sure all fans working keeps the bulb on longer. If overheat is suspect, try manually shorting the sensor or opening circuit to run tests in that configuration.

I also had a problem one where the projector would work fine right sideup but fail upside down, it would fail after about 30 minutes. The table top testing proved that out.
I even mopunted it upside down with the cover off and extra cooling fans but still upside down it would fail, yet run for hours on end rightside up. I ran it for about 9 months in the coffee table shelf until I felt I could afford to do the repair.
Dwin was baffled over it abut resolved the problem, with a new Power supply board. They replaced it free as part of my TV3e upgrade. Nice of them to do that!

Hi Don,

Thanks for the additional info. This is a useful test case. I'll try it out tonight.

Found the problem! The DWIN tech support guy was right. Both the lamp & the power supply fans were stuck due to dust. After blowing them with compressed air and they started working. Projector has been running for more than 3 hrs now. Whew! Close one. Thanks guys for your additional info.

twelly- The fans in the Dwin are easy to take apart and do a thorough cleaning. You can even take off a little paper cover and repack the bearing on the big ones.

PS- you need to install my simple little dust filter. :D BTW- My new BenQ uses exactly the same design dust filter I custom added to my Dwin.

Hi All,
Official notice that I will be jumping ship and replacing my TV3(E) with a new 1080p PJ (probably the Marantz VP-15s1).
Question: what have others sold their TV3/3+/3E for?
Thanks
FREAK!

I've had my TV3 for about 5 years now. It's started getting sporatic blue lines that flash across the screen while watching a movie. They quickly flash like static then go away.

Any hints how to fix them?

Thanks!
dave

We recently bought a home with a Dwin TransVision 3 system installed. I think the bulb just died. The old one had over 2000 hours on it. The projector now clicks itself off when I attempt to turn it on and there is no picture on the screen. Is there a good on-line place to buy replacement bulbs, or do I have to buy it from Dwin for $450.00? I want to make sure I get the right bulb.

Also, we're thinking of replacing the system, but don't know the resale value of the Dwin. Has anybody out there sold theirs recently?

If you find a lower cost bulb than what Dwin sells that works, lety us all know. Last I cfhecked the Dwin bulb assembl;y was onlt available from Dwin. :(

I have a Dwin TV3e with the latest upgrades added and when I advertised it for $600 I got no interest at all. Today, it sits on a shelf in storage. My son-in-law would like to have it after they get a new house which probably won't be anytime too soon.

I upgraded last year to a 1080p system and while the Dwin was very hot for it's day, it is no where near the quality mof the new 1080p systems. Plus, my bulb on the new projector lasts twice as long as the Dwin. I going on 4700 hours now and it shows no signs of aging.

Wish I had better news for you but if you find something be sure to stop back here and let us know. I still monitor this thread via e-mail alerts.

If you find a lower cost bulb than what Dwin sells that works, lety us all know. Last I cfhecked the Dwin bulb assembl;y was onlt available from Dwin. :(

I have a Dwin TV3e with the latest upgrades added and when I advertised it for $600 I got no interest at all. Today, it sits on a shelf in storage. My son-in-law would like to have it after they get a new house which probably won't be anytime too soon.

I upgraded last year to a 1080p system and while the Dwin was very hot for it's day, it is no where near the quality mof the new 1080p systems. Plus, my bulb on the new projector lasts twice as long as the Dwin. I going on 4700 hours now and it shows no signs of aging.

Wish I had better news for you but if you find something be sure to stop back here and let us know. I still monitor this thread via e-mail alerts.

I agree with Don on all the points that he made.

You will need to get the bulb from Dwin.

I just cant get over how wonderful this site is! I have a similar problem with my TV3 e starting up and working fine for about 1 hour, then the lamp goes off, although the little red light continues to blink normally. Must be a heat problem. I will try your suggestions.
Thanks Don and everyone
Fishlady

There are companies that will rebuild the lamp for you

Great discussions - I have a new issue and was wondering if Anyone has experieced this and knows the cause or a fix...

I have TV3 with about 500 hours on the bulb. It (somewhat randomly) will make a very high pitch noise follwed by Blue Streaks across the picture. The only way to stop the noise/streaks is to shut down the unit. Obviously quite annoying as it typically can happen anywhere from 30 min into a movie to up to 2 hours after the movie starts. Somtimes it does not happen at all.. Quite frustrating!

Sure would appreciate any feedback or help on this - Local tech of my Dwin dealer/installer had no clue - just suggested sending it back for Dwin to fix..

Thanks

I need a little help: How do I set up the DV3e up on a 6 ft shelf in a normal upright position and shine it on to a screen in front????
I have tried to use screen set up in all configurations and it always seems to shine with the botom edge parallel to the projection and upwared (up onto the ceiling). I would like it to shine paralle to the projector and down towards the floor.
I have tried ceiling front, ceiling rear, floor front, floor rear ( I think there is only 4 configuration) Help?

I need a little help: How do I set up the DV3e up on a 6 ft shelf in a normal upright position and shine it on to a screen in front????
I have tried to use screen set up in all configurations and it always seems to shine with the botom edge parallel to the projection and upwared (up onto the ceiling). I would like it to shine paralle to the projector and down towards the floor.
I have tried ceiling front, ceiling rear, floor front, floor rear ( I think there is only 4 configuration) Help?

Try using the lens shift lever.

Try using the lens shift wheel on top of the projector.

Yes I did try the lens shift but it only shifts about 5 to 10% of the screen. Was the DWIN not ment to be in this type of config? Thats hard to believe.

Try turning it upside down to see if you get the proper image that way. Im not quite sure what the problem is with the image. Is the Dwin below the screen?

No, the dwin in attached to the ceiling but I have it oriented right side up because it seems to work better right side up. I had it properly on the ceiling upside down but it seemed to not like it and sometimes just stops after 20 min (overheated?) but when I place it right side up it seems to work properly for hours. THis is why I am trying to reconfigure it to the ceiling but right side up.
Don emailed me and said that the config I want is not possible. He used to put his on the floor to shine on a screen in front. I guess I am out of luck...rats.
thanks

Just wanted to put some info out there.
My TV3 was fine then it started shutting down after 45 second of start up. I thought that I had a bad thermostat. So I started looking for a new thermoswitch....which proved to be impossible. I did however find some replacement fans at Future Electronics online. So I replaced all three exhaust fans and took the thermoswitch out of the circuit and tried to get it up and running. Worked great sitting on the table then after I mounted it (Upside down) It would shut down after 45 seconds. I came to the conclusion that the problem was either in the power supply or the bulb. being that the power supply would be more difficult to remove and remote from the projector upright I tackled the bulb first. I removed the Bulb from its bracket and flipped it 180 degrees. Put it all back together and it is working like a champ again. One thing that I noticed was that the bulb it marked top and bottom. So theoretically the Bulb should be reversed when the projector is mount on the ceiling.....I believe that could be a reason for some of the premature bulb failure out there......maybe after a while the Fillament that actually make the light droops or something.
Any way I just wanted to get this out there in case some of you are in the same boat. I have tried repeatadly to speak with someone at Dwin and have had no luck so at this point any info is good.
Has anyone got a line on bulbs or a rebuilder of them....how about repair people.
it is very dissappointing to have been such a loyal Dwin guy and for them to just not communicate. I would be totally fine with them not making projectors for a while if they would just communicate a little. I understand that they will send you a bulb if you send them money....but they will not call you back. Over the years i have sold about 25 of their projectors and am regretting it from a service standpoint at the moment. I will have to say that my personal TV3 is still a top notch projector. I would be hard to replace it in the near future....even with 1080p. The scaler is pretty darn good.
Thanks
richard

Thanks for your report on this all too common problem with Dwin. I get PM's and e-mails all the time from Dwin owners who have suffered the same symptoms. I believe I was the first to experience it with my PJ and Dwin did fix it as part of the upgrade I paid for to TV3e. Your discovery of the bulb orientation is quit noteworthy. I hope you keep us all posted as to the longivity of your fix. In my case the fix was permanent. The Dwin tech said he had to replace the power supply, but who knows if that was all that was needed. He also replaced the bulb both for free, so to speak. So I can't complain.

About a year ago, I got a deal on a BenQ10000w for upgrade to 1080p and jumped on it. I also got the scaler DVDO VP50Pro too so that made it easy to have a remote processor box just like the Dwin. I must say that the upgrade was well worth it and I didn't shead any tears over losing the Dwin. While nearly the best in its day, the newest stuff blows Dwin PQ away, IMO.

Thanks again for posting your discovery. :)

Wow Richard, that is almost exactly what happens to me with my DWIN TV3e. I will try your fix too. I haven't even used my PJ for about two months because it would work for about 1 hour then shut down, allthought the fan would continue. (Made me depressed)
I was just logging on to AVS to try and see if anyone had any skematics (sp) for the TV3e as I work at a college that has top notch technicians who said they would look at it but would sure like to have a set of skematics. Any one out there have any????? If so please PM me.

The projectors are really not that crazy when you open them. Not to much magic in there. I to had a bad power supply at one point....knock on wood...hope it will not happen again. With mine it was evident from the burnt electronics smell and they replaced that. I am just not looking forward to replacing it down the road even though I get everything at cost!
As far as performance. I always felt that the TV# outperformed the TV4s that we installed and I am not totally sold on the 1080p stuff as it is not a crazy difference.....not like going from 1024x768 to HD.

RB my TV3+ just displays white with a smell kinda like a burnt smell could it be the power supply?

I'm replacing the unit with a SIM2 HT 380 but may put it upstairs for the boys to play X-Box 360 on.

If it can be fixed what is the used value of the TV3+ with scaler?

$300 - 500?

I would not know what to tell you there, i would imagine that it could be looked at but I would say your power supply is good...video board bad? If you are not going to fix it let me know I would buy it for parts.......
richard@area51audio.com

FYI: Well I opened up my TV3e and tried to re-orient my bulb 180 deg, however there was too much silicone stuck on the corners of the bulb casing and so I could not flip it. So I took a gental air can and blew out inside the housing and fans, etc. Guess what.... the PJ is working again. We then watche two movies back to back and it worked fine. Hope it lasts

Well, it didn't last. It worked for two movies back to back and then again the next day for one movie.....on the forth one hour into it, it went off although fan continued. I restarted right away, lasted 25 min more and went out again. I restarted again and it stayed on properly for the rest of the movie (1.5 hr). Who knows what's going on????

Who knows what's going on????

I had a similar problem with a TV3+. A new bulb fixed it.

Anyone have a spare bulb (new or used) for a TV3 they're not using? I'm having a problem that may be bulb, may be motherboard, if it's the latter I'll replace the projector. Not sure it's worth buying a new bulb just to try it out, as I was told it's probably the motherboard.

An old dim beater bulb you've forgotten about since you replaced your Dwin would be perfect - I don't care about color fidelity, brightness, etc., just to see if it's a bulb problem or not. I'll then send it right back. If it is the bulb, I can find a replacement (I see eBay for $209 to $250), if it isn't, I'll buy a new projector.

The symptom (described in an earlier post) is very severe posterization of the image (basically goes to about 2 bits of color for each of RGB), following by flickering on/off of the entire posterized image.

This only happens when the projector has been on for an hour or so. If I shut down and restart the projector, it's good for another 9.5 minutes (could set my clock by it) until it happens again. Not very wife friendly - she now refuses to watch movies until I either fix or replace the projector.

I've taken it down and checked all fans etc., nothing blocked, all fans operating correctly.

This is in response to my problem with my TV3e. My TV3e was cutting out after 45 min with only the fan running.
A forum member mentioned that I might try flipping the bulb over 180 degrees. The bulb actually has a "top" written on it, but if you mount it ceiling wise, it would actually be on the bottom.
Now I thought the solution of flipping it was a fairy tale, but I was so frustrated I decided to try it. Guess what... it as worked perfect for about six movies over the past 3 weeks. The only thing I can think of is that when I flipped it over, the wires connecting the bulb were now on top and left more room for air flow.
I now beleive in this fairy tale and I thought it was important to let the members know that I no longer beleive they are nuts.
Thanks

:mad:I've had good luck with my DWIN TV 3 for 4.5 years, and now that DWIN has shut their doors, I've got a problem and need help.

I started to get a Yellow tint througout the display, I've replaced the bulb and cleaned the lens and the problem Continues....

Any Help as to prossible causes would be appreciated...

Long time no see.

I've had the problem with the projector shutting down. Pulled it down and figured I might replace a couple of the fans while it's down and hopefully that will fix it. The fan for the circuits felt like it wasn't blowing as strong as the others. There was a little noise from that fan when my ear was really close to it that the other fans weren't making. Maybe it's reading too much resistance in the fans since they might be wearing out? I'll try the bulb flipping and see if that works for mine.

Found a replacement bulb for the projector. Do a search for Sony XL-5000 replacement lamps and you can find lots of options. It's the exact same OSRAM VIP R 200/P22 that comes from the factory. Found a REALLY good price for $109:
http://www.suburban-elect.com/display/XL5000/XL5000?gclid=CJ_n8qaz8ZgCFWVM5QodUlnV1A

You can also do a search for the bulb number I posted and find some options as well.

Has this bulb actually been put in the pj? My concern is there may be a proprietary plug on the dwin ala the video cable. If this bulb is the correct one it would be huge! Does anybody know if dwin is still shipping bulbs?

Thanks Toxarch for posting bulb info and the bulb link. My bulb started suddenly dimming (like switching a lamp between 2 different brightness settings) in the last week. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it's within the first 30 minutes. Since Dwin is out of business (unclear to me if "they" still sell bulbs), I did a web search and only found 1 source for Dwin bulb -- plus one on ebay that listed bulb as Dwin/Sony XL-5000 - both for about $250. But I could find nothing on the web company listing the bulb, and without confirmation I was uncomfortable that the Ebay listing for the Sony was really the same bulb as Dwin (TV3e). Now I know and at $109 I will certainly order. I looked serious at replacement projectors in the $2500-$5,000 range - but running HDMI cable for 30-35 feet through the rafters (no attic) would be painful, and my still very good pre-amp/amp is pre-HDMI switching model. So I happy to stay with my Dwin at this price as long as it works. Perhaps with new bulb, my picture will even will a little brighter as my current bulb has about 2500 hours. Thanks.

Has this bulb actually been put in the pj? My concern is there may be a proprietary plug on the dwin ala the video cable. If this bulb is the correct one it would be huge! Does anybody know if dwin is still shipping bulbs?

I've sent DWIN several e-mails about buying a new bulb and they didn't reply to any of them.

I have not tried that bulb in the projector. But the markings on the bulb should be exactly the same as the one from DWIN.

I posted the model number way back in 03:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2314918&highlight=osram#post2314918

In the eBay ad, saying that the Sony and DWIN bulb are the same, they give the same numbers and I checked it again on my own projector bulb. You can find the Sony replacement in many online bulb stores.

Should be? That is a big help to us

Should be? That is a big help to us

Sorry for posting. Next time I'll keep the information to myself.

Okay...I am sorry! It does "potentially" solve a big problem for many of us. But until it is plugged in it is still potential unless somebody else can confirm it works. I'm happy for any dwin good news

Okay...I am sorry! It does "potentially" solve a big problem for many of us. But until it is plugged in it is still potential unless somebody else can confirm it works. I'm happy for any dwin good news
I tried to order yesterday the $109 bulb from the link Toxarch suggested. They (Suburban Elec.) phoned me today to tell me they were out of stock and were unable to get an estimated restock time from their supplier -- and that they had not charged my credit card. I thought it very nice of them to follow through in this manner. So I fell back and ordered from an Ebay listing that specifically indicated the bulb was for Dwin and Sony XL-5000 and gave the Osram # that Toxarch gave. It's a bare bulb so I suppose I might have some work in installing it. The ebay link was http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-XL-5000-XL-5000U-DWIN-LAMP-NEW_W0QQitemZ140257789106QQihZ004QQcategoryZ3320QQcmdZViewIt emQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262 and the price was $209 plus shipping (USPS) and optional insurance. I found cheaper prices on Sony XL-5000, but some of those were apparently Phillips bulbs and claimed that original Sony XL-5000 bulbs were Philipps and not Osram. So I played if safe(r) and went with this supplier that specifically indicated Dwin and Osram. If/when I try to install the bulb I will try to remember to report back. My bulb has had sporadic sudden dimming recently but not in the last several days. It's a real pain to get to (or near) the top of our cathedral ceiling to remove the projector to replace the bulb. So I may continue with the old bulb unless the dimming becomes a regular occurrence. In any case I'm happy to take the chance with this bulb at this price and have it as a back-up if nothing else.

There is a metal bracket around the OEM bulb. It's held with 2 allen screws and some clear silicone. Take that bracket off the old bulb and put it on the new bulb. I doubt you need the silicone. You have to do that if you do the bulb flip mod. A couple of the XL-5000 bulb pictures I saw has the wires and plug attached. The plug looked similar to the one in the DWIN.

This last TV3 bulb lasted me a good long time and now I'm catching up to the bad news about DWIN. So, yes, I'll be most interested in anyone confirming they've come up with a provider / solution for replacement bulbs.

Toxarch, I really appreciate your information on the Sony XL-5000.

I flipped the bulb on my TV3. Reinstalled the projector and it runs fine now. I have no clue why it worked but I am not going to argue.

I sent that one site an e-mail saying that I would be interested in a bulb if/when they get more in. Also said there were more people who were interested as well if it will work in the TV3. They never replied. Maybe I will try calling them.

Don,

Can you shed some more light on the external scaler you mentioned. My TV# just died and i am lloking ot upgrade to a Mitsubishi hc 6500. My problem is support for HDMI, i will have to replacde my Denon 4802r which adds another $2K to the equation any suggestions on how imght be able to add the new proejctor with out upgrading my reciever? Am i losing any sound quality? i would like to know my options. thanks alot.

I tried to order yesterday the $109 bulb from the link Toxarch suggested. They (Suburban Elec.) phoned me today to tell me they were out of stock and were unable to get an estimated restock time from their supplier -- and that they had not charged my credit card. I thought it very nice of them to follow through in this manner. So I fell back and ordered from an Ebay listing that specifically indicated the bulb was for Dwin and Sony XL-5000 and gave the Osram # that Toxarch gave. It's a bare bulb so I suppose I might have some work in installing it. The ebay link was http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-XL-5000-XL-5000U-DWIN-LAMP-NEW_W0QQitemZ140257789106QQihZ004QQcategoryZ3320QQcmdZViewIt emQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262 and the price was $209 plus shipping (USPS) and optional insurance. I found cheaper prices on Sony XL-5000, but some of those were apparently Phillips bulbs and claimed that original Sony XL-5000 bulbs were Philipps and not Osram. So I played if safe(r) and went with this supplier that specifically indicated Dwin and Osram. If/when I try to install the bulb I will try to remember to report back. My bulb has had sporadic sudden dimming recently but not in the last several days. It's a real pain to get to (or near) the top of our cathedral ceiling to remove the projector to replace the bulb. So I may continue with the old bulb unless the dimming becomes a regular occurrence. In any case I'm happy to take the chance with this bulb at this price and have it as a back-up if nothing else.

Mclark2 - had my brand new sump pump die last week, so basement was in clean up mode for week. After done, go to power up Dwin, and low and behold, its dead. Has to be bulb as it was at 1500 hrs. Man, when it rains it poors. Given current economic downturn is killing my business (and my biggest client is on the verge of bankruptcy and going to cause big loss when they file :mad: ), want to squeak out another couple years with the dwin. Any news on the replacement bulb you bought? Is it working? What's involved with installing it?

Please advise.

Also - fan noise and issues. Was hoping to replace the fan assembly from Dwin as well as its been having issues. I have the dwin installed inside a hushbox with a fan assembly. I am not mr. mechanical (far from it but can follow directions pretty good and I have a father in law who is kind of a electrician and loves to rig things for more life). If I search this thread in detail, will I find instructions how to fix fan assembly, fan noise, etc. Could have swore I saw in past but didn't save.

I am furious about Dwin going down without some sort of support mechanism. It would have been smart for some of the technical folks who worked there to start an Ebay listing that would offer replace bulbs and repair services for dwins, don't ya think? Great way to earn some side money I figure. Man, in todays times I don't think I am the only one interested in squeaking out more time with the Dwin. PQ is better with new projectors, but Dwin PQ at 720p is still more than adequate for my needs in the next 2 -3 yrs. And just think what might be available then!

Help! Help! Help. . . thx so much!

Felder: my bulb has not yet arrived. I ordered a week ago Monday (2/23) and it was sent US priority mail. I sent an email to seller yesterday to check - not heart back yet. We are in an isolated region (Mammoth Lakes, CA), so it's not that unusual that it would take this long to arrive although this is longer than usual.

My old/original bulb (about 2500) hours is hanging in. I still notice it "blink" and cut down to dimmer light level than it starts up with. But honestly, in the middle of a movie I'm not certain that it stays dim. Anyway it's still watchable.

I'll post when I have an update on the bulb I ordered.
mclark2

[QUOTE=Felder;15989287]Mclark2 - had my brand new sump pump die last week, so basement was in clean up mode for week. After done, go to power up Dwin, and low and behold, its dead. Has to be bulb as it was at 1500 hrs. Man, when it rains it poors. Given current economic downturn is killing my business (and my biggest client is on the verge of bankruptcy and going to cause big loss when they file :mad: ), want to squeak out another couple years with the dwin. Any news on the replacement bulb you bought? Is it working? What's involved with installing it?

Please advise.

Also .................

I have a DWIN TV3 that was just given to me. It was barely used. It looked great before I brought it over. However, after installing a screen and surround sound i sat down, plugged it in -- and all I get is white. No menu, no picture. And as everyone knows, there's n more DWIN.

Is there anything I can do to try to get this thing working?

Thanks.

Make sure the connectors on the cable between the projector and the processor are snug. Also check the cables from your source to the processor. It like a signal issue .Does the projector turn off when you power down? (remember to let the bulb to cool down for a while before you cyle it back on)

Mclark2. . . did your bulb arrive yet? I have another lead on someone who claims they can provide an OSRAM bulb that will work for Dwin -

Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

Says ship the whole assembly and they will put the OSRAM in and ship back. $250. The extra $$$ from the other option might be worth it to me so as not to have to mess around with the silicon or break something (just the way my luck has been recently).

My bulb still hasn't arrived. I emailed an inquiry to the ebay seller last Friday but no answer so far. My purchase was insured, so probably tomorrow or the next day I will send another email, plus look into how to pursue failing a claim with ebay or paypal if I here nothing.

Thanks for this lead. At present my bulb is still holding out despite occasional sudden dimming. Also at times the projector simply switches itself off, usually within ten minutes of turning it on. So far, after a couple of minutes I start it again & its usually okay for the rest of the program. But this is a long time problem that goes back even before I had Dwin upgrade me to the "e" (TV3e) version. Supposedly they fixed this then -- but obviously not!

Thanks.
mclark2


Mclark2. . . did your bulb arrive yet? I have another lead on someone who claims they can provide an OSRAM bulb that will work for Dwin -

Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

Says ship the whole assembly and they will put the OSRAM in and ship back. $250. The extra $$$ from the other option might be worth it to me so as not to have to mess around with the silicon or break something (just the way my luck has been recently).

Mclark2. . . did your bulb arrive yet? I have another lead on someone who claims they can provide an OSRAM bulb that will work for Dwin -

Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

Says ship the whole assembly and they will put the OSRAM in and ship back. $250. The extra $$$ from the other option might be worth it to me so as not to have to mess around with the silicon or break something (just the way my luck has been recently).

How much to just have them ship the bulb? It's not that hard to swap the bulb out. I just cut the silicone loose, peeled the excess silicone off and then reinstalled the bulb.

My bulb ordered 3 weeks ago (priority mail) finally arrived. My wife came home from the post office literally as I was headed back to my computer to find out how to file a complaint or follow-up with ebay or paypal. I did not receive a response to my email to the seller sent last Friday and certainly it doesn't take priority mail three weeks to reach us. So either something happened to the original shipment (wrong address? or whatever), or there was a delay at the seller's end in getting the bulb.

If my present bulb hangs in, I probably won't take time to install the new one until after April 15 (taxes). I printed out 'instructions' some time ago from someways back in this thread (perhaps posted by you, Toxarch, for all I know - I don't have them handy at the moment.) Whenever I finish replacing the bulb (it is a bare bulb, but I knew that), I will report back on the results. With my projector at the peak of a high (12'?) ceiling, I can't take a quick look to see if this bulb should work. Fortunately I do have a 10' step ladder that works fine for reaching the projector. The projector probably needs a thorough dust cleansing anyway.

mclark2

How much to just have them ship the bulb? It's not that hard to swap the bulb out. I just cut the silicone loose, peeled the excess silicone off and then reinstalled the bulb.

Not sure toxarch. Didn't ask. Will do so on next communication.

Heard that someone talked a while back to a Dwin Tech Support guy about using third party bulbs. The tech warned that the bulb is very sensitive to startup currents and the power supply has many sensors that if the bulb isn't the exact design electrically, it won't stay lit. So if that's true, we'll have to try and get guarantee from any seller that it will work with the Dwin or get money back with returned bulb. MClark2. . . sure wish your bulb would die already so we can get confirmation if one of these bulbs will work. Kidding of course.... you are lucky to have 2500 hrs on that bulb. That is quite an accomplishment from my experience. I barely have gotten over 1500 hrs.

I will likely bite the bullet with one of these replacement bulbs and work to get some sort of guarantee.

OK. Shipped my bulb to relampit.com (for approx $10), they replaced shipped back, I installed in projector, and its back up and running. So far so good. . . maybe 10 - 15 hours on new bulb. So total cost was approx $262 with my cost to ship to them and insure the shipment back to me. Contact data:

Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

But make sure you tell them to install the bulb in the the assembly with the wire connectors on top after the bulb assembly is installed. For some reason they installed the bulb so that after I install it into the dwin the wire connectors are on top and bottom, not on top like it should. I realize I could have broke the seal, straightned out, and resealed, but I installed as is, made sure wire was not hitting/impeding anything, and so far so good.

Now I just have to figure out how to handle the fan assembly issue. Its on its last leg.

I just sent my TV3 lamp to relampit.com yesterday. I will post how it goes. Im excited to know i will be able to keep my Dwin going.... considering...
Contact info:
Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

Has anybody actually done a side by side comparison with an HD2 DLP (or any DLP for that matter) between White and/or Gray screens and the new Silverstar?

does anyone have some recommendations (beyond cleaning ..., although tips there are welcome) for getting my tv3e back up and running happily (and quietly!)?

when i last turned it on a couple of weeks ago (since talking intermittently with my old dealer who's too far away to work with directly) the fan(s) were making quite the racket (loud grinding noises ...); i turned the unit off to avoid overheating the bulb or making matters worse if the problem was more than just noise. i'm worried about having to replace them and would like to do the right steps before i panic about finding spare parts....

so any tips for next steps would be gratefully appreciated.

thanks!
---K

I got my lamp back from Relampit today! I got it back really fast in just about a week. I installed it and im up and running again. Atleast I know relampit can keep my Dwim going strong. These guys are great as always.
Contact info:


Jon Rubino
Sales and Marketing
Projector Lamp Services
50 Orville Drive
Bohemia, NY 11716-2519
T: 631-244-0051 ext 110
F: 631-244-0053
email: jr@relampit.com

www.relampit.com

does anyone have some recommendations (beyond cleaning ..., although tips there are welcome) for getting my tv3e back up and running happily (and quietly!)?

when i last turned it on a couple of weeks ago (since talking intermittently with my old dealer who's too far away to work with directly) the fan(s) were making quite the racket (loud grinding noises ...); i turned the unit off to avoid overheating the bulb or making matters worse if the problem was more than just noise. i'm worried about having to replace them and would like to do the right steps before i panic about finding spare parts....

so any tips for next steps would be gratefully appreciated.

thanks!
---K
I just ordered new fans for mine and sent my bulb out to Relampit yesterday as I had 2300hrs. on it. I figured that as long as I was replacing the fans I might as well do the bulb at the same time. Here is the link for the fans I purchased. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/fans/Pages/5535299-AD7512HX-LF.aspx

How many fans are needed