Schlitzie:

Had you demo'd the Dwin prior to purchasing it? If so, how does your current pq compare to what you remember seeing in the demo's?

That makes sense. I have read comments saying that the HDCP/IC fix corrects the overly blue of the TV3.
Good luck
FREAK!

Hi Rob - semi embarrassed to say that I did not specifically audition the Dwin, but did see pretty much everything else in the HD2 lineup. All of my local dealers kept pushing the Sharp since that is what they had in stock, so I ended up getting the unit long distance. ( Which is fine as I have close friends in the same town anyway)

I based the purchase on multiple objective factors (two piece set-up, etc.) but also on subjective reports, like yours and Thomas Marshalls experiences...
I'm confident that the Dwin can throw a great image -- just not the one in my basement. Hopefully it will be better in the next few days when the hew chip goes in.

BTW, my image is definitely not bluish - far more red than anything. Everybody looks sunburned!

Good luck and keep us posted schlitzie.

Schlitzie,

I'm one of the newer owners (about 3 weeks) of the TV3 and I've seen absolutely none of what any of the people with problems have experienced (except the ambient light which is not a big deal to me). On my StudioTek 130 (110") screen, DVD (especially DVI) and HDTV look absolutely awesome. No discoloration problems, great blacks and great contrast. All I've done is set it up with Video Essentials and let it roll. I couldn't be happier. I hope this new chip will fix yours. If it doesn't, take heart that, even if you have to send it back to be fixed, once it is fixed, I bet you'll really be happy and the wait will have been worth it.

Chad

Guys-

They really did a number on my unit with regards to light spill as well..


It really annoyed me the first time around... as far as I can tell, its pretty much gone..

I am going to get upon the ladder and do a full report tonight..

-ADS-

Toxarch-

Suggestion- Buy an assortment of plugs/jacks from Radio shack and try them on for size. That is how I match these plughs and jacks. I'd also like to shoot the guy who invented the non-standard sizes and varieties of these plugs and jacks. I shoot him for free! :D


With regard to the Bravo DVD player. Based on the absolutly awful reports about customer service, and the buggy nature of the player, I have decided not to purchase one of these. You can tell that to the sales director if you ever reach them.

Re: the Bravo-

I have now watched 5 movies all the way through without a problem. Still keeping my fingers crossed though.

I spoke with Jeff K. at Dwin today about the lightspill(and other stuff) from the lens. I am going to try to do the lens cap exacto knife tweak tomorrow:).

I mentioned that several people were a little concerned about the lack of a filter, and asked if there was something I could put in the unit to prevent dust buildup, and he told me that he will run it by his tech guys on monday. I am expecting a call from him on monday, and I will post what he says.

I will also try to post a step by step on the lens cap thing.


Fred

Hi Forum,

Intake air filters are available for the WhisperFlow Projector Hushbox. Also, for forum members who do not like clear hushboxes, they come in many colors and wood grain or can easily be painted to match room decor. All the best with your home theaters!

Dave

Don-

Get the HD931... You will not be sorry...

Thanks,

Ashok Shah

AHHHHHHHHH:) The Cresent lightspill on the ceiling is dead!

It took about 10 minutes(that lenscap put up a good fight, but in the end I wlked away the victor.

Fred,

Post a picture of the lens cap. I have one on order and want to see what you did.

Thanks,

Chad

Just got my TV3 yesterday. Can anyone help with a problem. I get erratic remote control operation. After a while, the unit doesnt respond to the remote anymore (unless I shut it off and wait a while).
When the remote operation freezes, I can even get the menu controls working on the Controller box.
Any ideas?
Steve

"When the remote operation freezes, I can even get the menu controls working on the Controller box. "

Since you can get the controls on the box to work,
Start by replacing the batteries in the remote!

Also, I programmed my own remote with the Dwin HT modified one. You might want to do that.


Fred- What was the detail on ordering a new lens cap-- Price and where did you order it from? I'm doing fine with my current tape design but would prefer to make the lens cap mod.

Sorry Typo.
I "can't" get the menus working using hard buttons on the controller. Controller looks like its frozen or something. IR telltale doesnt blink when remote is pointed directly at the controller. However, it does blink (but no menu response) when remote signals are pointed to the PJ.

When frozen, even the hard power button doesnt shut down the unit. A power off IR command directed to the PJ does work. After a short pause, and power up, the menu controls (both IR and hard buttons return).

PJ head, Controller, DVI cable or remote control????

Don and Fred-

I did the lens cap thing for awhile, and it does work..

But don't let DWIN off of the hook... A projector at this price.. with the Advertised "LIGHT SEALED CABINET" should perform.

The new one they sent me is great. No more crescent, and I wager to say its even quieter.

I know its a pain to be without it... it was crucial as it was my only working demo at the time.. but in the end it is great..

-ADS-

d4-
There are a number of things that need upgraded on the TV3, but the light spill from the case and the light spill from the lens, plus the lack of an air intake filter seem to be the major issues. I have them under control here so no need to send the PJ back and be without. I don't mind the fan noise as I rarely watch silent movies and my sound system more than covers up the fan noise. Besides, I always listen loud too but we've been over all this before. At this point, I'm very happy with my TV3 installation as it came plus my modifications. I heard about the internal mask to cure the through the lens crescent but no details. Maybe this is what they did to fix yours. Switching from the gaffers tape to a lens cap cutout may be the only thing I will be adding in the near future. I am actually looking forward to moving into DVI soon with the PVR921. Next year, I may be considering a budget to replace my screen. I want to look at one with auto masking

Here is the pic of the lens cap I cutout. Its not pretty, but it does the job.

WHat I did was take a piece of paper, and traced the lens cap, then I put the circle over the lens, and when you hold up the paper in a dark room(with the dwin on showing a white screen), you will see a rectangle of light. Trace the light, and then use an exacto knife to cutout the circle and the rectangle. Now that you have a template, go to town on that lens cap(put the circle up to the cap, trace and then cut).

Ask Dwin for a replacement(should something happen while you are trying to do this, and I hope to have my replacement next week). If I ever decide to sell this, I want a lenscap with no holes in it:).

And here is a shot(I took his looking straight up at the projector to demonstrate the loss of light spill due to the lens cap tweak).

Sorry these came out weak, but I was using my PDA to take the pics.

Don-

Yeah, I can't wait for Dish with DVI, but they have had this unit in pre-production form since last CEDIA, when it was a JVC model... and it still isn't anywhere near release from my understanding..

Not to mention the new Superdish for recieving more HD channels..

Echostar stinks with product release...

I will tell you again... the HD 931 is awsome for 299... The picture is much improved.

-ADS-

Echostar stinks with product release...

Unfortunately, I have to agree with that statement.

They need to get on the ball. I have no doubt they have lost customers over this issue....and I may be one of them if they don't have something out by October.

I may get a Samsung just to see what I'm missing. :) When I can get one with something like a 10 day return option. I have a pretty darn good DVD picture now but not as clean as HDTV. I think the $299 price is out of line for me considering I have DVD now, don't use it much and this would just be for DVI, so to speak.

Hi All,

I've been following this thread since I got my tv3. Lots of great discussions in here. But I have a problem and wondering if anyone is experiencing this. Here's the symptoms:

1. After playing at for 1.5-2 hours, the tv3 video becomes erratic. It is the same if there is an input source being fed or no input (nothing hooked up) being fed into the Dwin system. All inputs (s-video, DVI, etc. have the same results).

2. TV3 recently had its HDCP/IC update. This problem did not occur prior to the upgrade.

3. At the request of Roger at Dwin, the the heat sink cover plate for the HDCP has been removed.

4. With or without the HDCP heatsink in place, the problem still occurs.

5. Once this occurs, the projector will not turn on again. Trying to turn it on results in the fan spinning up, then the color wheel, then it spins down back into standby mode. Power cycling the system does not work. Unit does not power on unless the internal main board ann HDCP ribbon cable is temporarily removed.

6. The color wheel spinning sounds may sound like it is also moving erratic?


Anyone know what's going on? Attached is a zipped Real Video showing what is going on.

Also, anyone have to replace your bulb yet? Like getting really short life on it < 100hrs?

Thanks in advance!

ydw,

Your attached video is quite compelling. I'd be shocked if Dwin didn't immediately replace your pj if you send that to them. I'm no expert, but I've never heard of anyone else having that kind of problem. Sounds like you got a really bad apple.

Is this a problem that developed or has it been present from the beginning? Also, if you lost your bulb within the first 100 hours, did you have any problem with Dwin replacing it under warranty?

Best of luck and keep us posted on how it turns out. I have a feeling you'll be the proud owner of your second TV3 in the very near future.

Chad

YDW, I just replied to your post at home theater discussion. I basically echoed what cgauntt said.

Got my 110" StudioTek 130 yesterday and with the help from Mr. Brent Huskins, I got the screen and the TV3 in place. Oh my god, this thing is amazing or perhaps I should say bad a$$. Some owner in the earlier thread, who does not enjoy this PQ, must get the defect unit cuz this is what I call "picture perfect". I can also see those light spill in front and back of the projector as every one here mentions. Not a big deal to me though. Absolutely love it. Thank you Guys.

Tony

Tony,
I got my Studiotek up last week as well and it looks great with the TV3. Yeah the picture is great. The honeymoon will be over soon and you'll start tweaking like the rest of us...

I agree with the DWIN TV3/ Samsung HD931 combo. This is a killer combo!!!

I compared my HD D-VHS/D-Theater tape of "Ice Age" to the DVD played off the Samsung and I have to squint to see the difference.

The $300.00 Samsung blew away my Pioneer DV-AX10 ($6K retail) with a Cinematrix PSM-1 modification ($900.00). Of course the DV-AX10 still sounds better.

Does anyone know of a practical DVI switcher? My other DVI input is already taken by the Radeon 9500 Video Card in my HTPC ( DVico HDTV Fusion Card equipped)

Like a lot of people here, I'm looking forward to the new Dish Net with DVI out. But I'm out of DVI inputs.

BTW, those guys at DWIN provide excellent tech support.

YDW-

Talk to your dealer to see if they can replace it... or send it to DWIN..

I know its a pain to loose your PJ for 2 seconds.. but its an investment... and you will be much happier

I had to send mine in 2x... but the one I have now is worth the wait..

Hardly any lightspill, and much improved PQ... with HDCP..

I will admit it looks better than any of the others I previously installed.


-ADS-

OK -- update on my underwhelming TV3 -- Tonight, I intalled the new HDCP board and IC -- (not a big deal to do, really) and first impressions are that the colors are greatly improved. Far more natural without the ruddy flesh tones.
BUT - I am still not turned on by the sharpness of the picture ... Almost like it is just slightly out of focus no matter what I do with the lens... It is really noticeable on text - the edges just aren't razor sharp like I am expecting. And, when watching HD on PBS tonight, the detail just wasn't there like I had become accustomed to with my other pj... I'm wondering if the optics are a little screwy with this unit. Granted all HD signals are not the same, but the DVD's did not generate the wow! picture I think I can get with the TV3.
I'll mess with it a little more tomorrow, but I have a feeling it may need to be seen by the guys at Dwin to bring it up to speed.

If you walk up to your screen 2-3 ft. away and look at the gray screen on a blank input with the menu in the center, you should be able to focus on each pixel, albeit very small, plus you should be able to see the tiny dimple in the center of each pixel in clear focus. Most people, I'm told can't focus this tiny with their eyes once back about 10ft from the screen. I can see this back about 12-15 ft. if I concentrate. If you don't see this level of detail, then I would say you have something out of alignment in your optics path.

If you look closely at the text in the menu, you will notice that it is very sharp edged without dithering. Letters like the O are pixelated on the curve rather than a smooth round analog like circle. You should see this type of edge sharpness in your menu if your focus and optics path are aligned properly.

A tip I would suggest is, use a pair of binoculars properly focused to see the screen while adjusting the lens.


I hope this helps you determine more scientifically, whether you are getting the same level of optics imaging as I am. I think this methodology is better than trying to compare WOW factors. :)

"Almost like it is just slightly out of focus no matter what I do with the lens... schlitzie"

I had the same problem. My dealer however acknowledged that there is a problem and replaced my unit.

All crystal clear now!

Hope you get the same level of support from your dealer. My dealer told me that Dwin fixed the defective unit

andaleon,
What differences do you note in pq between DVDs played via your HTPC versus your Samsung 931? I thought the only advantage of HTPC (for DVD playback) was the capability to scale internally (to the projector's sweet spot) in the digital domain. I would also think that the audio output of the HTPC would not be on a par with your DV AX10. As to your question about switchers, I believe Extron and Key digital offer switchers.

Thanks in advance.
AGN

Schlitzie-

Send it back... Trust me its worth it... it really is...

The PQ in the Unit I have right now is night and day...

I have a feeling the newer units have better DMD's that just is my gut..

I think this is across the board, as the sharps I have done over the past year also look improved now..

I can't put my finger on it exactly to say what the problem is... but with the new 931 and DVI.. the PJ is smoking...

-ADS-

Hi all, update on the erratic video,

Thanks for the replies. I did sent everything back and we'll see what happens. In fact, early on at the same time my bulb went out, it was also having some white streaks. But I thought that was due to their longest 50' cable. They didn't do anything about the streaks then since they did not see it.

As for the bulb, it is covered under warranty for a few weeks after purchase. I'm so glad since that saves $450 on a still new unit!

It's a great pj and I feel you do get a lot for your $. Plus the single cable run and break out boxes, that's a big $ saver too in cables and ease of setup.


Thanks,
ydw


PS. Don, great tip on how to focus the pj!

"What differences do you note in pq between DVDs played via your HTPC versus your Samsung 931? -AGN"

The picture on the Samsung has more depth and 3 dimensionality on it. It's colors are more natural. Of course, the color controls of my video card can be adjusted too. My HTPC run on a Radeon 9500 card at 8X-AGP from an Asus A7V8X motherboard. CPU is an AMD 2800 Barton chip.

Of course, the Samsung is way easier to use. Very high WAF over the HTPC. But then the HTPC can do other things the Samsung can't. My HDTV tuning, playback and recording are done via HTPC. My kids love their games on a 92" Studiotek 130 screen over a little dinky monitor.

And you are right the audio on the HTPC (M-Audio Revolution 7.1 sound card) is way below the quality of the audio on the DV-AX10. My DV-AX10 has two modifications:

1.) MSB Technology for Audio to Integrate well with their Platinum DAC.
2.) Cinematrix where they added an internal video scaler. (That was useful when I was using a JVC D-ILA projector.)

My DV-AX10 connects to the DWIN controller though the RGB input. I could run it 720P also out of the box but I find the picture better at 480P.

Musical concert DVD's played Stereo only is still done via the DV-AX10. IMO, I could sacrifice loss of PQ for splendid audio.

I found some DVI switching solutions at RAM electronics

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_switch.html

I just did the HDCP board upgrade(well, I watched it being upgraded:)) and it was very easy. One question, what is the directv channel that lets you test if your gear is HDCP ready?

Thanks,
Fred

Did you do the upgrade yourself Fred?

Your dealer was suppose to do it for you?!?!!

A requirement of the DWIN dealer agreement...

Brent Huskins
Media Design

I was with the dealer(he actually did it), and it took about 10-15 minutes.
I brought the thing home, and I forgot the directv channel to test it with(I am running a HTPC instead of the samsung, so I couldn't check that out.


Fred

Does anyone have good color settings on an upgraded(HDCP unit?)

I compared this to my mits 55907n today(in the same room playing the same HDTV), and the mits looked more clear and punchy with the colors(it wasn't like this before the upgrade, as the dwin cleaned the floor with it).

Fred

When I say good color settings, I am talking about settings different then the factory default 50's

I'll post settings next week after my calibration on Monday. Of course everyone's setups are different (screen, distance, equipment, etc.) but it might be interesting anyways. I'm damn curious too see the IFS calibrator guy at work. Anyone of you all ever spent the $$ on calibration?

Kraig,

When you post the settings, please post the specifics of your setup - i.e. screen type and size, distance, offset, etc. . . Also, I can't wait to hear if you think the money was worth it in improvement. My projector looked awesome out of the box and, after I set it up with the Video Essentials DVD, I don't know how much room there is for improvement. I'm really interested to hear what you think.

Chad

And please let us know if the gray scale could be calibrated for the DVI, S and composite inputs. They were adjustable on pre-upgrade units.

Originally posted by kraigk
I'll post settings next week after my calibration on Monday. Of course everyone's setups are different (screen, distance, equipment, etc.) but it might be interesting anyways. I'm damn curious too see the IFS calibrator guy at work. Anyone of you all ever spent the $$ on calibration?

Please do post the settings(along with your setup).

I have spent the $$$ on an ISF calibration before(on my mits HDTV), and it was WELL WORTH it!

Another question, Does the AVIA disk work well with Digital projectors? I thought I read somewhere here that it wasn't?


Thanks,
Fred

The new Dwin website lists the above as a feature of the Dwin. I didn't know it had the capability to adjust the gamma without the service codes.

Also, what exactly is the "enhanced black level" selection? I.e. how does it produce "enhanced black level"??

Notice the Light Sealed cabinet>>> The new one I got is sealed for the most part.. They are changing the new batches..

Website is much improved..


Now if we could only get a firmware fix for more tweakability... and a few extra features.. we got a winner..

Can anyone explain this statement on the new Dwin website:

On the TV3 product page...

* 20 Video Source Memories for Custom Setup and Automatic Recall

Is this the auto memory when you have two scan rates on one input source? Or is it the memorization of settings that I'd like to have?

"I have spent the $$$ on an ISF calibration before(on my mits HDTV), and it was WELL WORTH it!- FRED"

I'd like to believe that ISF calibration would make a difference. However, in my case it wasn't so.

I had my DWIN TV3 ISF-calibrated and picture was pushed to the RED too much. Either I had an incompetent ISF guy (he's certified) or he had some defective tools (Sencore Stuff). Everything he did was off even using the AVIA and Video Essentials Disc.

I called my dealer back in and he did it by eye and picture is much, much better- more natural colors.

I hope you got your money back!

How do you know the colors are more accurate after your dealer calibration? Especially considering he did it "by eye"!?

What's the use of having it ISF calibrated if you are going to trust your eyes over the instruments?

Did the ISF tech go into the service menu? If not, you probably paid too much.

I had my Mitsubish HDTV ISF calibrated, and I agree that it made a rather dramatic improvement to the overall picture.

Even the ISF calibrator himself said; " I don't care what these intruments says - the ultimate measure is the eye."

Three guys (all own delightful PJ's) saw the final calibrated PJ and all said it's awful.

Yes, we got into the service menu.

I have to work on getting my money back.

Anyway, the DWIN is back looking great!

I pm'd a couple of you looking for a quick response to this question:

When you put up the first test pattern, the crosshatch, do you see a blue line on the edge of the white test pattern lines? Does it border the left of the diamonds on the left of the screen, the right on the right and both left and right in the middle of the screen? Not sure if this blue shoudl be there. Dwin wasn't too eager to hookup a projector to compare. I've got the calibrator coming back in a half hour with an HD signal generator and I'd like to know whether or not you have this blue line.

KraigK,

I am looking forward to your post calibration settings(tonight:)), so rthe least I could do is fire up my TV3 to check for you. On the patterns(the diamond test pattern), you can see what looks to be bad convergence(or at least thats what it reminds me of) on some of the diamonds(on the left and right of the screen, although it is normal in the center.

Hope this helped, and we cant wait to see what your new settings are:gr:

I spoke with Roger at Dwin about my problem with the unit not looking as sharp as it did before the upgrade(and the colors aren't as on as I would like either(reds look maroon), and he gave me the option of sending it back in to them, or having him mail me another HDCP upgrade board. I will probably mail it in(have them fix the lightspill problems then too), but if the new settings fix the unit, I wont be without my Dwin for 2 weeks.

On both the TV3 and TV2 I have seen the blue lines as well as red on the other side, I have always assumed it was chromatic aberration in the lenses.

20 Memories, gamma selection etc: Dwin began mentioning these with the TV2, these are not new features. As far as I know there is no user adjustable gamma and the memories are automatically set up when a signal of nonstandard resolution is input. You can not create more than one memory per resolution. I hope someone can prove me wrong on this.

Fred,

Are you seeing blue lines on the edges of the white test pattern lines? I'd seen these before and just ignored them. If we all have them I guess it is the nature of the beast. If some have them and not other it sounds like Dwin has a problem...

Everyone please look and let me know...

I will be sending my TV3 in to DWIN for the once- over this week -- For exactly the same fix as Fred is describing above. the focus (or sharpness?) just is not that great no matter what I do, and they might as well fix the lightspill problem while it is there and open. I'm bummed I won't have it for a week or two, but it drives me crazy each time I watch it knowing that the picture can be great instead of mediocre.

What struck me as odd during my conversation with Roger was when he told me that I "was the first one to complain about the picture..." Weird, since there are at least three others in this thread that have gone back or are going back for warranty work.

What I am still not clear on is whether or not there should be any blue lines at all? And if there are blue lines should left, right and middle all be the same? Rodger wasn't very receptive when I asked about this..

Kraig,

No blue on mine. Pattern is even throughout my 92" Studiotek 130 screen.

Originally posted by kraigk
Fred,

Are you seeing blue lines on the edges of the white test pattern lines? I'd seen these before and just ignored them. If we all have them I guess it is the nature of the beast. If some have them and not other it sounds like Dwin has a problem...

Everyone please look and let me know...


Kraigk,
It looks like bad convergence on some of the lines if you walk right up to the screen. You can see it better as you go to the sides, and the center is very hard to see at a foot away.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by schlitzie
[B]I will be sending my TV3 in to DWIN for the once- over this week -- For exactly the same fix as Fred is describing above. the focus (or sharpness?) just is not that great no matter what I do, and they might as well fix the lightspill problem while it is there and open. I'm bummed I won't have it for a week or two, but it drives me crazy each time I watch it knowing that the picture can be great instead of mediocre.




These are exactly my thoughts as well! I just spoke with him, and I am getting a return auth faxed to me. I will also have the optics sealed as much as possible:)





What struck me as odd during my conversation with Roger was when he told me that I "was the first one to complain about the picture..." Weird, since there are at least three others in this thread that have gone back or are going back for warranty work.

Again, You are right on here. He said that this was the first he has heard of this. Before you send this in, check the colors out(the reds look an awful lot like maroon!), and it looks like there is a film over the picture(it still looks good, but it wasn't as good as when the non HDCP board was in.

And lastly, How should I ship this guys?????

No blue on mine. Pattern is even throughout my 92" Studiotek 130 screen.


Anthony,

How close did you get to your screen when viewing the test pattern? Depending on your vision you may have to get within a foot.

Scott,

I have moved back and forth to and from the screen, including 1 foot away and all I see are clean white diamonds.

I can separate all the individual white dots making up those diagonal lines.

Hi Fred - I think we have the same problem -- I have previously described My TV3 (pre new HDCP board) as having a picture that was far too red, even after AVIA calibration. It also had what you call the picture with a film over it -- just not sharp at all. After I replaced the board, the color got better, but the picture still looks like there is a layer of vaseline on the lens...
The menu looks sharp, and I can in fact see individual pixels clearly if I display a grey background, so I am a little perplexed...
And, while I'm at it, I also think it is a bit dim...
In any event, I'm not happy so it is going back - As far as shipping goes, I have had the most luck in the past with UPS, so I'll insure it and off it goes in the next few days. (Fed Ex had a royal screw up on a lexicon amp last year, so I'm done with them)

Settings will come later .. I'll be calling Rodger tomorrow for an RMA as well. What I'm hearing here is that there should be white lines and no blue on the test pattern.

I can tell you most of the calibration was done manually after making adjustments with Avia, Video Essentials and an HD signal generator. It came out way too red based on these settings so we then went by eye. The upshot of it all on my setup was the inability to achieve lineal balance between red, green, and blue. Red and blue would get near zero and green would always be around -10. Does everyone find the same thing?

Mr. calibrator felt the picture looked pretty awsome in the end, but was bothered by the lack of in depth greyscale and color adjustments. It was also his opinion that better color generation by Dwin would allow for a balance among the colors and yielding a not so red picture at the same time. But this isn't to say it was a lousy picture.

Kraig,

So far there are 3 posters with blue lines and 1 without. Have you gotten more responses via PMs?

"It came out way too red based on these settings so we then went by eye-Kraig"

Exactly what I said after my ISF calibration.

Shipped it back tonight(I already miss the TV3:().
I shipped it fed ex, and I insured it too. I asked Roger to fix the lightspill on the unit, the sharpness of the unit, the colors on the unit, and I wrote a note about the bad test pattern in the service menu. It should get there in 3-4 days, so if anyone can think of more problems I should report, please post them:)

Fed Ex was 48 bucks with insurance for ground.

Scott - I haven't gotten any more responses.

Anthony - Your right, in fact had I been sharper I would have copied and pasted your comments.

I do think it interesting that when you theoretically calibrate the tv3 with Avia it is so far off? Is this inherent to the Mustang ship? Is it just Dwin?

I know the Dwin folks aren't too happy with us trying to get everything so perfect. All I can say is if they sell the TV3 for $499 as is we'd have no legs to stand on. Since it is $8k+ with warranty I think we all expect more...

Fred - What did they say the turnaround time would be?

Oh yeah, almost forgot the settings. Since it did become largely a manual process we looked at lots of different channels on sat and several different dvd's and these are the settings that worked well for both by dvi inputs (bravo and zenith sat520)

Contrast - 70
Brightness - 38
Color - 65
Tint - 40
Sharpness - 4

In the advanced menu, White Balance menu
R Balance - 64
G Balance - 30
B Balance - 42
Indexdelay - 204

My setup is as follows: TV3 ceiling mounted at 10.75 ft from screen (minimum throw), Studiotek 130, 100", bravo and zenith sat520 on dvi connections both at 720p.

The only changes made to other inputs (component and vga) were increasing brightness very slightly.

Anthony-

I agree with you. I have this thing about instruments:

In theory, instruments should be able to put everything spot on, assuming the technician knows how to use them and the instruments are properly calibrated. However, the ultimate instrument is you! If you are happy and satisfied, I don't care if the picture looks purple to the instruments, it's your projector and your eyes and you are happy! Making your projector look "right" to the tech's equipment who will be walking out the door after he get's your money is not my idea of being happy that the projector is right.

I firmly believe that these ISF techs think they have a good racket going on this stuff but in reality, their true services are only required when it is obvious. Many have complained about Mitsubishi RPTV's and how ISF calibration is required. People who are extremely satisfied with their picture quality probably should keep the ISF techs out of their equipment, save the money, and continue to be pleased with their projector. Others who are not satisfied and think the picture is out of whack, need to call in their local ISF tech and get it checked out.

I am very pleased with my picture. I have the access codes and have yet to even poke around in there. No need to. and certainly do not need to invite $omeone else in to poke around.

I also recognize that some people may be suffering from a degree of home theater hypochondria.

KraigK-

Were those your final readings? What were the factory ones?

Originally posted by kraigk


Fred - What did they say the turnaround time would be?

Nope, but the sheet that he faxed me said an average of 5-7 days are required for all repairs. I expect it back in 2 weeks or so.

Don- I'll post my factory settings later. These were the final settings.

Help!
I've gone through almost the entire thread. Maybe I missed something, but how do you get to the menu that allows you to adjust the R/G/B settings?
Thanx,

steve- The special code should be available from your dealer. In order to preserve harmony with Dwin, it was requested that the code not be published by those who have it. Some here will give it out privately. Please do not e-mail or PM me for the code. I was sworn to confidentiality with the procedure and I will not break that trust.

News from me!

I got my TV3 upgraded today with the new board and chip.

I did write down all my settings from the old chip and board.

One thing I did do was go into the advanced menu and write down all the original board settings.
Then after the upgrade, I noticed all the user settings were restored to center "50" and I needed to redo those BUT...
The advanced menu also changes in the RGB's and gray scale settings from the original.

I didn't do my white test but if memory serves correctly, the white appears more in line with SMPTE D6500 color temperature, i.e. warmer white. Did Dwin preprogram these boards to a factory D6500 setting? I don't have a meter here but it looks like that warmer color temperature to my eyes.

Don, Have you compared the reds to your CRT reds? Is you machine out of focus when you look at signs from a sporting event(like those on the boards in a hockey game), or text?

I have been busy at work for the past week so I have not had a chance to package my TV3 up for return to DWIN yet - planning on sending it on Monday. In the meantime though, I spent some more time just making sure I wasn't crazy and that the unit really was focused as best as possible with the lens adjustment. Yep, sure is, and image looks fuzzy. So I got about 6" from the screen, and studied the image closely -- There is a 2 - 3 pixel wide faint blue shadow that extends up from the top of each image, and a 2-3 pixel wide faint red shadow that extends below. Don't know why I did not notice it before...

I guess I'd call it a convergence problem, but I did not think you saw that with digital projectors. Anybody know? At least I have something more tangible to describe than "it looks like @#^&*..."

Schlitzie - I have the blue line, not the red. I don't think mine is too far off but I got an RMA anyways. I'll probably send it back next week as well. And no I didn't notice it for quite a while either. Do you have to send the controller/scaler too?

Roger told me to send both, perhaps as punishment. He was at first reluctant to give me an RMA and was not very happy to take my call. He must be getting tired of Dwin owners expecting these things to work the way their supposed to.

Any ideas as to how Dwin align a color in a fixed path system?

When I had to replace my Dwin, all I had to do was call my dealer and asked them to look at and confirm it is broken. They confirmed and took a new one out of their truck and put it in and viola, problem fixed.

Aren't you guys getting that kind of support from your dealer?

Well, my dealer is a 6 hour drive from my house -- So I would have to end up shipping it either way. I plan on giving Dwin the chance to fix this one -- if not, I will pull the dealer into this to make it right. (They do know that I am not happy with the performance, and have said that they will help if I need them to)

And yes, I will send the box, the projector, and the cable back - I have no idea what the source of the problem is, so I will let Roger do his thing on all of it. And KraigK, you're right - he was not too thrilled about giving me an RMA.... Frankly - one of the reasons I purchased the DWIN was because of their supposedly awesome customer support - so I will give them the benefit of the doubt and the opportunity to get it working

Originally posted by Fred DeGrandis
Don, Have you compared the reds to your CRT reds? Is you machine out of focus when you look at signs from a sporting event(like those on the boards in a hockey game), or text?

Fred- Not really comparable. The CRT has a lesser brightness and lack luster image compared to the Dwin. It has to do with the fact that the Dwin is much sharper than my CRT.

The Dwin has excellent focus with extremely sharp edges. I do not see any of the purported blue or red outlines people are reporting.

Don - the lines, blue lines in my case, are in two of the test patterns. What is even more perplexing about their existence is the fact that they are not uniformly shifted right or left. Their location varies from side to side.

So when you do any test patterns you have no blue lines?

Which test pattern and where are they specifically on the pattern? I will look later tonight when I get out of the office. For a day I thought I had off, the work started pouring in and it looks like I won't be getting out of here for awhile!

The lines are on the first test pattern (diagonal crosshatch) and on the big checkerboard. Look at the edges of the white lines. I see blue borders, probably 1/8" thick. It seems as though the blue is out of alignment and as someone else has said it looks like a convergance issue.

It is very subtle but it sometimes visible in certain scenes and shows up as horizontal faint blue lines.

Did you get a chance to look at yours Don?

Today, I promise. Been very busy getting a new TV series premiered on Tech TV Tuesday. Sneak Preview at bestoftheweb.tv

Has anyone measured the actual lumens output before and after a D65 calibration on their TV3?

kraigk-

On both the diagonal lines and the checkerboard I see what appears to be a convergence issue too but I would not describe it as in inches because that would be relative to screen size. Rather I can describe it in pixels. It is one pixel thick! On the checkerboard it appears as green pixel next to the black square top and right side. On the bottom and left side is it blue. The thickness of both is only one pixel and blends to my vision once I'm about 8-10 ft. away from the screen. I normally sit 16 ft. from the screen so I really never saw it before.
Was that the confirmation you were looking for?

FYI- The worst convergence issue I ever saw on a digital PJ was the problematic SX21 JVC at CES in January where it appeared so bad it was about a full text size out in the menus. Then it was blamed on overheating of the circuits due to inadequate air cooling which they obviously fixed in the release version. Consequently, I do not believe that convergence is a non-issue in digitals. IT just presents itself less than CRT's and for different reasons.

If you have a convergence issue with a digital pj, how do you correct it?

Guys:

A friend is looking for a digital PJ around $10K US. Given what I read in this thread about convergence, would you still recommend this PJ to someone who is putting an HT room in a new house??? Or should one look elsewhere?

Thanks

w

wojtek - I think we would all recommend the tv3. They are not without issues though.

Don - Your "convergance" issue sounds different than mine and others. Thanks for checking. What do you think, problem?

Rob - For lack of better terms I say convergance as that is the way it seems. You are correct, as far as I know in thinking there isn't anything we as end users can do. Maybe Dwin can? Since the color wheel is fixed there wouldn't be any adjustemnt, as far as I know. It this were a CRT I would be working the blue gun into alignment. Maybe they replace the wheel?

My TV3 is being sent back today for repair, with special note to repair the "convergence" defect....
I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Has anybody tried kraigk's post-ISF-eyeball settings? Haven't had a chance to pop them in yet?

Can someone point me to a list of authorized Dwin dealers?

I sent an email to Dwin requesting the information but did not receive a response?


Thanks

Mine is Audio Contractors of Oregon, WI. Phone number is (608)-835-0556. Talk to Brian or John. Brian's direct phone is 847-245-3680.

The best customer support. I had some probelms with my DWIN too and they took care of it.

Let's put this in perspective, Please!


I'm looking at a 1 pixel alignment deviation from perfect!

What is this in terms of size? On a screen width of 92 inches, it is approx. 0.01 inches as best as I can measure with a monoscope. Is this reason enough to choose another projector that has unknown data?

Point being, that I find even the Sony 9" CRT and the Barco all have slight convergence issues that drift. I have also seen several demo rooms where one could clearly see picture flaws from 1 ft. viewing distance. But we never hear any discussion on these and I think the reason has more to do with psychology that anything else. When you have a projector with such a great picture, you begin to look deeper than the obvious to find anything at all wrong to fix or complain about. Heck, I would have loved to be able to focus my CRT down to a 0.01 " line size width on the 92 inch screen. I was lucky to see a focus of .08 to .15 across the entire picture and even with the schemfluge or what ever it is called focus adjusted as best I could get it, the consistency of focus across the screen was never as flat, linear and sharp as the TV3.


So what to do about it? I have a thought but not sure it will work. It may be that the back focus is out on the projector lens. Since one never really zooms with this lens, it may be possible to refocus the lens to the image as opposed to the pixels as I have done. One may be tied to the other but until I test it I can't say. There may be a point where the shift in the green and blue may be moved with a simple focus of the lens. IT may make the image sharper while defocusing the dimple of the pixel. Kind of like a back surfaced mirror will have two image reflections slightly off from one another as the reflection comes from booth the reflector and from the glass surface. Since this "convergence" is very linear all over the screen, this may be an area to investigate for a final calibration tweak in the field. How difficult this would be is very much in question. IT may be within acceptable tolerances and best left alone. Just some thoughts to kick around...

Your alignment sounds better than mine Don. I'm not sure how many pixels yet but it is far more than one.

Anyone else looked at their test patterns for the problem?

Hi Folks.

Thought I would introduce myself as a new TV3 owner. I picked the unit up from my dealer on Friday, had some retro wiring to do in the room on Saturday and Sunday, but by last night, I was watching movies.

I also own a Vidikron HD-40 CRT that is about 6 years old. I had been hesitant to move to digital for all of the reasons you can read about over in the CRT forums. I have what I consider to be a pretty critical eye -- you develop that after 6 years of tweaking (and re-tweaking) a CRT -- and I have to say, I am very, very impressed!

So far, I can tell you that the light spill issues are not resolved in new units (my dealer tells me this came from Dwin last week). I am also experiencing a thin vertical gray line about 4-5" to the right of the screen. Someone posted this experience on the first page of this thread, but I never heard a resolution. Has anyone else here seen this, and is there a solution.

Thanks!
-Mike

Thanks.

Regarding the light sealed TV3 cabinet refered to -- I just received one this week and I have the cresent on the ceiling, lightspill in the back and some more out of the bottom of the lens assembly.

Also, in my service menu, the software date is May, 2003. Did I receive one of the older pjs? Maybe I should make them replace it with one from the new batch.

I received my in the third week in May and I think the begining of May was the start of the new batch of TV3's with the HDCP upgrade. So you probably have one of the new batch TV3's.

-sonny

Well - Dwin did confirm that I have the HDCP upgrade, but I haven't tested it yet. What is it, Ch 201 on DirectTV?

I can tell you however, that the light spill is still an issue. I'm surprised that they would be shipping units like this while at the same time issuing RMA's to fix ones in the field.

I think I'm going to insist that my dealer make them send me another PJ with the light issues resolved.

MVideo-

The quickest way for you to tell if you have the upgrade is look at the PC board in your scaler box. You'll have to remove the cover.
Look at the board and notice the socketed chip with the paper label. It should be version 45 as I recall. I can look up the exact number if you need but the original version of the chip is 35. It may also state "HDCP" on that white paper label. If you have version 35 then you do not have the upgrade.
Hope this helps...

Thanks Don. It's v. 45. I'm debating what to do concerning the light leaks. The grey vertical bar 6" outside the right edge is what bothers me most.

Last night I was watching The Patriot. Just before the credits (black screen) I was sitting upright in my chair and noticed my shadow on the ground. The light leak out the lense was the source of the light. I guess the light leak downward is as bad as the light leak upward from the lense.

FINALLY got a working Bravo D1 in and WOW is the picture improved at least 5 fold. It did lock up on me once but that might be because I was going through the commands faster than the Bravo was responding. No lockups since. The DWIN picture looks so awsome with the D1. I don't have an AVIA disk since there is talk of a new disk coming out, so I used the THX Optimizer on the Star Wars II disk. I wouldn't mind seeing the Samsung as well just to compare and see the EE that people complain about. I recommend everyone switch to DVI for their DWIN.

Has anyone noticed a ghost image above bright white images on a black background? I noticed it last night while watching the opening credits on Adaptation. About 1" above the white credits there was a very noticeable glare which looked like a blurry ghost of the letters.

The projector is ceiling mounted and I'm using the component inputs.

The through the lens leak of light is actually a circle being projected around the rectangular screen image. So, you will have a projected crescent on a flat surface like floors ceiling and walls. The reason why the ceiling is more noticeable is because it is closer. The best way to block off all through the lens light spillage is to make a mask that is a full rectangular matte cut-out in the lens cap. I actually have a small bit of spill on my right wall and have added some additional tape masking to that side as describbed for the top earlier in this thread.

The only thing holding me off of the D1 is that it has these frequent reports of locking up. I don't watch enough DVD's to justify the more expensive player so I wait for something to get fixed with this D1's flaw.

My Dwin Comes back tomorrow, I wil let you know about the spill problems(if they have been fixed or not), and also the focus problem.

Fred

Mine should also be home tomorrow -- I had a short conversation with Roger who told me that my TV3 has been adjusted to be about as good as it is going to get... But I also got the distinct impression that he felt I was being a bit too fanatical about picture quality... Not trying to be paranoid or anything, just a weird vibe I got. Hmm - I guess it's my sensitive side coming through.

I'm about to order my TV3. What ceiling mounts are people using? I'm thinking about Peerless, so that I can more easily remove the projector if needed, and have more flexibility to change height from ceiling (I'll be doing some mods in the room and the screen will probably get replaced).

also be home tomorrow -- I had a short conversation with Roger who told me that my TV3 has been adjusted to be about as good as it is going to get... But I also got the distinct impression that he felt I was being a bit too fanatical about picture quality... Not trying to be paranoid or anything, just a weird vibe I got. Hmm - I guess it's my sensitive side coming through.


The same thing happened to me, or was said to me. If I am not happy with the picture, is there a way to have DWIN refund my $$$ for the projector. Its 4 months old with less than 100 hours on it, and for a list of 10,500 this thing better be perfect! I really like it, and I really hope that everything is good when I hook it up tomorrow.

I received my Dwin last week.

I hooked it up temporarily Sunday night, projecting onto a bedsheet (rooms still not done).

Out of the box the colors were off, but it looked fairly sharp. They most definitely have NOT fixed the light spill issue! Big crescent shape on the floor! :(

Also, I noticed a solid straight white line well outside the bottom of the picture area. Anyone else have this? Could this mean the optics are out of alignment like a couple of others here reported earlier in this thread?

Fred, I was one of the first on here to get the DWIN. I called them up fairly soon about the light spill in the front and the back. They offered to fix it and gave me a RMA and offered to refund it if they couldn't fix the light spill in the back. I never sent it in because I wanted them to figure out a real solution to the light spill since everyone seemed to have it. Though I did wonder if they were going to refund the retail price. Then I could buy another TV3 and have money left over for a really nice new DVD player. ;D But, I thought that wouldn't be fair and I doubt they would refund retail if I didn't pay that originally.

Last night, I received the Bravo D1 for my birthday! The picture is incredible. The unit did lock up while playing MP3 files and at one point during the 5th Element, the audio dropped out.

I am still getting ghosting above bright white images on a black background, so it's not the component cable. I thought of checking the DVI cable to the projector for kinks; but it's digital right? All or nothing, so now I'm thinking it's the projector.

I'll have to give Roger a call. I get the feeling he wont be happy to hear from me!

-Michael.

also be home tomorrow -- I had a short conversation with Roger who told me that my TV3 has been adjusted to be about as good as it is going to get... But I also got the distinct impression that he felt I was being a bit too fanatical about picture quality... Not trying to be paranoid or anything, just a weird vibe I got. Hmm - I guess it's my sensitive side coming through.

Exact same for me! I sent in my unit last week to take care of the many issues that I had. My unit shipped from Cali to Arizona Monday, so I should see it today. I will give my feedback. I also requested an extra lens cap for masking, hopefully they have remembered to include it.

Hi All -- Roger did tell me that if I am not happy with the picture at this point, they will refund the purchase price.
Now I honestly hope that doesn't happen, because of the fantastic experiences others are having - I'm confused as to why some of us have issues, and some are thrilled - Is it varying objective hardware issues, or varying subjective user expectations?
And since the TV3 is considered one of the best HD2's, what could replace it for similar cost?

Oy, hopefully it will all work out and I will be blown away by the adjusted unit.

Hi Guys,
I just put up a poll for TV3 owners as to what problems they have had or to say that they had no significant problems. As a soon to be owner, I have been following this thread. As with any lengthy thread, one could perceive the TV3 as riddled with problems. I am pretty sure this is not the case. I wanted to get an idea of how many people are having light spill, focus, or HDCP upgrade problems vs. no problems to put things back into perspective.
Please have a look and vote.
Thanks a lot
FREAK!

wow... i'm sure i have the same level of lightspill as everybody else. i have never noticed any problems with the picture, though. i'm surprised to hear anybody would talk about returning their Dwin. i'm not sure what i would replace it with that would be better...

i was the first one on AVS to get a TV3 back on April 4 (persistence of my dealer, i assume) and i have to assume that they haven't gotten any worse as the production line rolls on. but the product has 'just worked' ever since i received it. it has never flaked out, never refused to start, always reproduced images faithfully, never flickered, faltered, etc.

sure, there's light spill. but can you honestly say that it affects your image?

i went to the movies last month--a nice theater in Bellevue, WA (not digital, mind you) and was reminded that on the whole, my viewing experience is better at home than it is at the theater. i'm sure i could get similar performance out of the Sharp 10000 with some tweaking... but i don't think it's worth the hassle.

Hi again,
I refined the poll a bit after some excellent feedback and it is now 'version 2'
Thanks!
FREAK!

Also, I noticed a solid straight white line well outside the bottom of the picture area. Anyone else have this? Could this mean the optics are out of alignment like a couple of others here reported earlier in this thread?

Anyone?

Rob- It seems a few people have received TV-3's where the optics or something in that path needed adjustment. One even posted some pics of the alignment issue and how it appears. It sure sounds like you are having something like that with yours. I would strongly suggest you ask Dwin about your specific observation. One other here got some detaild instructions to align his optics and it solved his poor focus in the corners.

Rob, I would call DWIN about your problem. Can you see where the line is coming from? Maybe it's a light leak in the casing.

No-one is seeing ghosing? (See my post above).

Thanks guys.

It's a bit frustrating having noticed this problem since I can't mount my pj permanently yet. And it's a bit of a pain to set it up temporarily in the room to look closer at the light at the bottom of the screen and see where it may be coming from.

I think Thomas Marshall was the one who had an alignment problem before, so I will send him a PM to see if his symptoms were the same as mine.

Got the DWIN back, and the light spill is still present, but there is less of it. It is more clear now, and I am very happy. I guess you dont appreciate something unless you are without it for 2 weeks:)

Fred

No Ghosting at all here. Good clean white text over solid black background on credit roll at the end of the movie. I looked for it tonight up close. Nothing!

Guys,

You might be looking at this problem too much.

Don't let anything small detract you from enjoying such a good projector! I'm sure each one of the alternatives would have their own little problems.

In my opinion your dealers should be "dealing" with your problems.

Yeah, but I like my dealer. Why bother him when he's just going to call DWIN?

To all TV3 prospect buyers, I just got an email confirmation from DWIN that the latest batch doesn't have the light leakage anymore. I hope this is true. Now, I'm back to tv3 as my ultimate choice.

See their email reply below.

> From: "Diane Alex" <sales@dwin.com>
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:03:06 -0700
> To: <twelly@ieee.org>
> Subject: Fw: tv3
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <techsupport@dwin.com>
> To: "Diane Alex" <sales@dwin.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 7:12 PM
> Subject: Re: tv3
>
>
>>
>> Hi.
>> The current production has no light leakage problem.
>> A few of the early production units had some light leakage which has been
>> taken care of.
>> If you have any additional questions,
>> Please call and talk to Roger at 818 239-1500 ext 106
>> Best regards.
>> Roger.

Just got my TV3 back from Dwin and set it up.

First the bad:(
1. They shipped the projector in a tight plastic bag and then in the foam packing. When I removed the PJ the paint was dulled in many spots where the bag had adhered to it. This could be due to the heat in Phoenix and in the UPS truck; all I know is that it was not there prior. I tried to polish it out with car wax and that helped, but it is still not perfect. If I cannot get all of the marks out I will have to request a new cover.

2. The light spill is still there, but it does seem to be lessened slightly.

3. I can no longer fill my screen with the image. I have a short room and a large screen so I was pushing it a bit, but it did fill the screen prior to returning it for service. I have the unit backed up against the wall and two extra fans to blow/suck air from behind the unit, so I cannot move the unit back any further without modifying a block-bearing wall.

The Good :D
1. The black level is MUCH better. Before the blacks on my Z1 were close to the Dwin, not as good as I saw at CES. I do not know what they adjusted but it is great. Also, before I had to really crank down the brightness when feeding the unit with the D1 via DVI. Now out of the box I only had to adjust it a couple of notches. MUCH, MUCH better!!!:D :D

2. The whites look white. Before they had a definite blue push.

3. My noisy fan is better.

4. I think that I am HDCP compatible, although I have no way to test it.

5. The remote works better. No more pushing the button four times to get a reaction.

All and all I am much happier, it was well worth the return to DWIN and the great customer service. I am not going to worry about it filling the screen because I might be moving soon anyway. Besides, CEDIA is just around the corner and I might replace the TV3 with a new toy.
:rolleyes:

I think what Dwin considers "light leakage" and what we consider "light leakage" are two totally different things. I'd be willing to bet good money that the next person who gets one of these pjs will still have a bright ring around the lens, the crescent on the ceiling (which is very easily fixed), the glow from the air vents and the glow around the lens shift dial. From everything I've heard and seen, I don't think the folks at Dwin consider that light leakage (though I don't know what else to call it??). If anyone gets one of these new production models, please post to confirm or refute my suspicions.

Regardless of the light that emanates from the cabinet, once I modified my lens cap and got rid of the crescent on the ceiling, I'm very happy. It does have its little problems, but to me they're tolerable for the absolutely fabulous picture quality. My wife and I watched a movie the other day and she said "can you believe this is in our house!" If you get one that works, I don't see how it could be too much better.

Having said that, has anyone noticed a shift when using pictures from component inputs vs. dvi inputs. When I use a picture from my Sammy 931 or D1, the picture is aligned and perfect. When I switch to my ES999, it shifts to the right about 1.5". I have to expand the picture and overscan on the left to fill the screen. Not a big deal, but curious.

Thanks

Chad

cgauntt,

Well said, all these minor problems are just that, minor. The PQ on my Dwin is simply stunning. I love it.

Ruling out the Dwin from someones selection process due to the light issues is a big mistake IMO. I appreciate the detail in this thread, but if you're a first time reader of this thread it tends to come off very negative, and that's really to bad because I still believe the TV3 is the best buy on the market for the money. I would buy it again in a heart beat.

As I noted above, I continue to love this PJ.

Rob,

See my PM about your problem.

Man I am drooling now!! I will be ordering mine 1st week of September and I can FREAK'n WAIT!!!
FREAK!

1. They shipped the projector in a tight plastic bag and then in the foam packing. When I removed the PJ the paint was dulled in many spots where the bag had adhered to it. This could be due to the heat in Phoenix and in the UPS truck; all I know is that it was not there prior. I tried to polish it out with car wax and that helped, but it is still not perfect. If I cannot get all of the marks out I will have to request a new cover.

I received mine just last week and it had the exact same issue. The fact my Dwin was sent on the wrong FedEx truck and traveled several thousand miles more than necessary surely didn't help the situation.

As for the light leak and Dwin saying the new units have been "fixed", I would like to know what "new" means. I received mine last week, and it has a big crescent shaped light leak....just like the first demo unit I saw several months ago.

Rob,

Did you contact Dwin regarding the cover? If so, what happened?

I have not contacted them regarding the cover. It sounds like yours might be a bit worse than mine. It is just very dull in certain spots where the plastic was stuck to it.

It wasn't a good feeling to unbox the pj and see what appeared to be condensation inside the plastic bag against the pj!

I was considering doing the same thing you did...using a car polish. If that doesn't work, I may call Dwin depending on how bad it still looks.

After all the reasearch I've done here in avsforum, seeing different projectors ( me & my wife even flew to LA just to see the projs that are not available locally), changed my decision for a while after reading the bad reports of TV3, went to Guitarman's home to see a demo of his awesome HT1000 setup, waited for 2-3 months hoping for new models to show up or DWIN to fix all the issues, thought of going to CEDIA to see the HT1100 (if the rumor is true), even tempted to buy Tom Blake's brand new Marantz S2 posted in AVS marketplace (since he's 1hr away from our place), and after weighing all the pros & cons and got good feedback from DWIN for fixing the issues reported here, I finally decided to buy the TV3 because of 2 reasons:
- PQ was awesome after seeing it in action (dealer was using a non-dvi player)
- 2 box configuration (will save some $$$ for cables)

Thanks for all your help and honest opinions. Thanks to AVS for such a great forum.

Btw, what dvi dvd player you guys recommend based on your experience that will match with tv3 perfectly? I was thinking of getting the Bravo D1 which I think outweighs the Samsung 931 (although not much, I believe) in terms of PQ and other features.

Anyone of you have an angled ceiling? Long time back somebody made a recommendation to use a peerless mount. Can you post or PM the model number? How did you mount it? Did you use the screws that came with it or you used different ones. I have a dry wall. Do I have to screw the peerless mount where the stud is located? Sorry for asking these questions. This is my first time mounting a projector.

Again, thanks for your help.

future tv3 owner,
twelly

Twelly

Regarding DVI enabled players, I have both the 931 and the D1. I've been living with both and going back and forth to try to figure out which one I like best. I've been doing this for about three weeks and I still haven't decided. This should tell you that the players are really close.

When I first got the Bravo, I thought it was too soft. I was used to watching the 931 which is sharper. I don't notice significant EE with the 931, but it is more harsh. On certain movies (especially animation), this works great. This morning I was watching an excerpt of "Below" on the D1 and it was stunning. I think this player is winning me over for the TV3. (Its never locked up or otherwise misbehaved).

Hope this helps.

Chad

P.S. You're going to love your PJ. I am continually amazed by its performance!

Metallicafreak has asked us to develop a concise FAQ for the TV3 from the user perspective. I think it is an excellent idea considering nothing new seems to have developed in the past month or so except that most people have now received their free upgrade.
I have agreed to post a link to this FAQ hosted on my website for people to get easy access and will see about possibly getting a link included in the title of the thread but I need to ask David Bott about that.
What I need from you all is to help in the first build of the FAQ. Does someone want to get a start on it and set up the list of common questions and answers. I will do some editing of it to composite a good orderly list and add anything I thing is missing. If no one volunteers then I may get to it on Sunday or early next week.

The purpose here is that this thread is long and a good example of being without an FAQ is the question from twelly about non-flat ceiling. I posted pictures and the items required to do this type of installations but seems obvious he did not find it in this thread. I can build some photos into the FAQ. I now have several websites with lots of space and bandwidth to host it. Something like this is best done by the group of owners collected here than by one person in my opinion. Who wants to make up a start list and we can all add to it in this thread?

I will cut and paste to edit it into a simple web page. If anyone has good photos to add to a description of a special installation that you think many would be interested in, these should be e-mailed to me directly so I can post all in the same folder on the web site.

Chad-
Why do you think some people report these lock ups with the D1 and others do not? That very reason is why I've held off buying the D1. With the new deal from AVS, the price is certainly right for my limited DVD viewing. The Sammy is too pricey and I think DVI DVD players will all come into line after the first of the year. DVI is just too new yet.

Don,

I've heard of different theories. Some believe it is heat, but I don't think so. My player is in a pretty confined space and gets warm -- but no problems. I personally believe it is locking up due to dirty or damaged discs. From my brief experience, the D1 seems to be much more susceptible to dirty discs than many players. I recently put a disc in that has some smudges (not real bad) on it and the player went into a loop that made it appear to be locked up. I hard powered off the player, cleaned the disc and no problems whatsoever. Other players would not have had any problems with the smudges that stumped the D1.

I will also say that the D1 is the slowest responding DVD player I've ever had. It is agonizingly slow when transitioning from the menus to sub-menus or program content. However, it is very quick when changing layers which, in my mind, is much more important. Its a pain that it takes so long to transition, but, when compared to famine in the Sudan, its really not that big a deal.

If I were only going to buy one player, I'm pretty sure it would be the D1 over the Sammy. The pq is more film-like and I'm really growing to like it. For the price that AVS has it, I don't think you can possibly go wrong. I know you're not real big into DVDs but, after seeing this player, you may be!

Chad

I will also say that the D1 is the slowest responding DVD player I've ever had. It is agonizingly slow when transitioning from the menus to sub-menus or program content. However, it is very quick when changing layers which, in my mind, is much more important.

I have never had my D1 lockup yet. However, I definitely agree with the above statement. The response time in the menus is very slow....as is the time it takes to even get to the menu. Very slow loading.

I also agree that layer changes are quite good. Better than my prog scan Toshiba.

(About the FAQ)

Don,

I think this is a great initiative! Thank you for doing that. FREAK isn't the only one that's about to join you guys. One of my friends and I are heavily leaning towards the TV3 for our respective upgrades.

Actually, the only thing that's stops me from ordering it right now is CEDIA. I will most likely order it then anyway, but I'm still wondering what surprises will come out of it and 2-3 weeks isn't that long to wait... or is it? :)

-eric

eric-

My prediction- Go to Cedia and learn of the bigger and better but you will need to wait until January for delivery. Then you could excuse yourself and say, need to wait for CES2004. There will always be something better in another 3 months. Only you can decide.

Thanks all for the D1 reports. The theory about dirty DVD's bothers me too. Especially since that has already been an issue as nearly all my DVD's played are rental house dirty. I need to get one of those $50 DVD washers! I recall others theories on the lock up as pushing several different IR buttons waiting for the response on the first and the player just got confused. I'm not convinced it is a safe investment yet. PS- I use a trouble free RP56 now with component connect! Never a problem but the layer switch is noticeable.

I agree with Don,
I was wrestling with the 'What's at CEDIA' thing but I decided to buy the TV3 and enjoy it and not worry. There will always be new things in the future. I am on my 6th computer at home so this theory is not new to me or many other.

Don, thank you for taking on this task! I really appreciate it as lots of others will too I am sure.

FREAK!

Ok, regarding the FAQ, I will start with the following:

Q: I have mounted my Dwin TV3 and have noticed a crescent shaped light spill on the ceiling. How can this issue be resolved?

A: What I have done is very simple and straight forward and very effective. I only had spill on the ceiling and none noticeable anywhere else except for the far right wall which is flat black duette Hunter Douglas shade. And unless I put up a white card I really can't see it on the shade either. I think if your entire room was projector screen white, you'd see it all around the projector. Anyway, the matte design works well and all traces of lige spill in front of the PJ is gone. I determined the actual position of the matte by displaying a full field screen and then lowered a piece of card down until I just saw the shadow begin to cut off the image. Then I backed off just a small amount and marked it.

OK here's an image of what I did with simple gaffers tape.

The back side of the tape has another piece of half moon stuck to it to prevent the sticky side from touching the lens. The tape does not touch the lens glass.

Also, there are no scratches or mars on my lens or any I can see on the inner elements.


Dwin Matte (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=2322155&fullpage=1)

Credit for the above goes to Don Landis.

Hey Rob,

You know what I found is that Home Depot sells electrical tape in a round plastic box ($3) that is the size of the lens cap. Its a clear box, I cut to the shape (using Don or Fred'd method you describe) I want with a utility knife. Then I tape with Gaffers Tape so it's black and snap it in. It works great and easily removable for focusing and putting it back.

Daniel-

I will check that out! I want to fabricate a cap that has the correct mask for a total protection of the complete ring so that no through the lens spill comes off the top, sides and floor. This would be a cap that will have a rectangular cutout in the center. I have to go to Home depot tomorrow so I will look for the tape. What is the brand? Scotch?

Daniel,

Post a picture! Sounds really good!

Chad

Scotch is what I used, although I think this is a generic box so they should all be the same. Look for it in the electrical department.

I don't post much and not sure how to load a picture in.

Thanks for the heads up Daniel.

I'm sure Don can update the FAQ's as new and improved ideas come in!

Its scotch vinyl electrical tape, and its in the electrical section(actually, I used this tape(in white) to tape up the power and DVI cords to camaflouge the wires on the carpet and walls). I found it at the end of the isle, although your store may be set up differently.

twelly/Chad,

I must put my 10 cents in on the D1 and 931.

After many weeks of viewing, both DVD's can be tweaked (via the TV3 settings) to produce a stunning picture, I see very little difference in PQ.

I would hands down pick the 931 over the D1 do to operational issues, mainly the lock ups.

However, both units are so rudimentary in construction, operation and functionality that I consider both of them sub standard products.

I am patiently waiting for some quality high end digital DVD's to come out so I can dump both units.

If you have the money to burn, buy the 931 or both if you can afford it. You'll be happy with the picture and disapointed with the quality of both products.

Have fun

Tom-
Considering my sparring use of DVD rentals, I think I would best be served waiting to see if your wish comes true after CES2004. I want to have a DVD player that does DVI but as of now I find too many negative reports that bother me.

I might reconsider if someone here could tell me they think the DVI connection of DVD on the D1 or 931 looks as good as the RGB connection of HDTV off the movie channels, comparing the same movie with the TV3 scaler. This is somewhat of an apples oranges comparison but I think you all see where I'm coming from.

Don,

In your case I think you're making a wise decision. However, for me and many others, our primary viewing is from DVD's and we want the best playback devices we can get.

Because of this, I went ahead and purchased these units with my eyes wide open to the fact that I was buying low end ($199.00 and $299.00) bleeding edge equipment (first to the market).

In all fairness to Samsung I would like to point out that at a price point of $299.00 the 931 is still a good buy considering the quality of the picture.

So when I say sub standard, I mean below my normal standard for the equipment I like to use in my personal HT (i.e. I usually buy high end equipment). In this case I had no other alternative but to wait, and I was not willing to do that.

This is why I also purchased the JVC 30k and bought into D-Theater. The only HD pre-recorded media playback device in town.

Thomas,
How do you like the 30K JVC? Have they solved the reliability issues with this yet?

"I might reconsider if someone here could tell me they think the DVI connection of DVD on the D1 or 931 looks as good as the RGB connection of HDTV off the movie channels- Don Landis"

Don- I have a DVico Fusion HDTV card running off my Radeon 9500 card and I also have the Samsung HD 931. I have some recorded HDTV off Showtime HD and HBO HD in my hard drive (and archived to D-VHS too) to compare against the output of my Samsung HD 931. Both plays through DVI inputs of my TV3.

On movies like Charlie's Angels and Mission Impossible 2, the HDTV recording are hands down better. But on movies like Fifth Element, LOTR, Harry Potter, etc. I was hard pressed to see the difference between my recorded HDTV and the Samsung playback.

I guess the answer is- if a HDTV is indeed nicely done, it could very easily beat the DVD playback of the Samsung HD 931. If the HDTV movie are not well rendered, and there are many out there, the Samsung is a good competition and relatively HD.

Comparing the D-Theater tapes. On "Ice Age", the picture difference. between the HD D-Theater and the DVD is very minimal. On "Daredevil" the D-Theater is definitely better!

You obvioulsy have well invested in your HT. What's another $299 (about $250 street price) for a Samsung HD 931? I bet you have cables that is more expensive than the HD 931 or the Bravo D1. I agree with Thomas Marshall, you may be depriving yourself of the vast library of DVD software for a mere $299.00. I know $299 is not chump change but....

"I would hands down pick the 931 over the D1 -Thomas Marshall"

I Bravo D1 had a brief stint in my house to compare it against the Samsung 931. PQ not much difference but soundwise (AND SOUND IS VERY IMPORTANT) the 931 has a definite edge over the Bravo D1, given the set-up I have. (Please check my Gallery if you are wondering.)

"I am patiently waiting for some quality high end digital DVD's to come out- Thomas Marshall"

Marantz is coming out with their $1600 player that also plays SACD and DVD-Audio. If you do try this out, let me know.

"How do you like the 30K JVC? Have they solved the reliability issues with this yet?- Fred De Grandis"

I had mine for a year now. The only hiccup I had is when I followed the advice of those "experts" at Best Buy. I followed their advice that the standard VHS cleaning tape would also work on the JVC 30K. Bad advice! It ruined my deck and they had to replace it. Other than that deliberate act of sabotage, it works GREAT!

Marantz is coming out with their $1600 player that also plays SACD and DVD-Audio. If you do try this out, let me know

Are you talking about the 8400? I dont know of this does 720p.

Anthony:

Thanks for your report. It is close to what I was looking for and not much different than what I suspected.

The issue with me is that I really don't watch that many DVD's so the cost to upgrade from my present DVD RP56 has to be considerable based only on the quality difference between those programs I would watch on DVD that are not available on HDTV.
Also, if I had $299 to spend on something I would probably find a better use in a wireless internet card for my notebook to have access while on the road as a better use of that money than buying a Samsung 931 and renting 7 DVD's per month. ( I was out looking at the T-Mobile PCMCIA card today.) Remember, I do have a player so this is just an issue of the cost vs. quality of DVI vs. component for those movies that are not out on HDTV.

Fred- I got the Scotch tape box and will paint it black with some spray paint. Great find! It should be easy to cut out with an Xacto knife as it is soft polyethylene plastic and cuts easily. I can finally get rid of the tape on the lens with this! Funny thing is that I needed another roll of tape so it was a happy find for me! :)

Don-

Will you use this Scotch Tape container to prevent light spill 360 degrees, or just the top (like your fix with the gaffer's tape)?

Don - Although it's soft, it's still a bit crisp so make sure your cut is on a flat surface.

Rob - You can use Fred's technique of tracing and cutting the lens cap on this one so the light spill can be prevented 360 deg.

First - I really like my DWIN TV3, installed 3 weeks ago. I mostly watch NetFlix rentals (after Skip-Doctor-ing every one) and my own DVDs using a Samsung HD931, using DVI (as well as S and component feeds for comparison.)

There have been varying results in the matter of sound/pix synchronization however. When watching the "S" or component feed, the sync seems just fine. With some notable exceptions, the DVI dialog sync is sort-of O.K., but tight-impact sound effects are heard approximately 2 frames (1/12th second) in advance of the action.

Two DVDs without problems using DVI: "Gladiator," "Personal Velocity."
Problem discs: "5th Element"-SuperBit; "25th Hour"; "Secretary," and MANY others.

(If you want Chapter/Time/SFX data, just let me know.)

Has no other HD931 owner noticed this?

Does this occur with the Bravo?

HDJ,
I have noticed some sync issues with my D1, but only on certain DVD's, for the most part it is fine.

To all,

I picked up the Scotch container tonight, cut and installed it. It definitely works and improves the contrast (Due to the light reflection off of my white ceiling.) I simply turned on the projector full screen and put on the cap. Then I used tape to mask off the image on the plastic, removed the cap and cut away the rectangle. I used black gaffers tape tonight but I will get some paint tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up!!

"Are you talking about the 8400? I dont know of this does 720p- FreddeGandis"

I can't imagine why not? Marantz' VP-12SD2 uses the same 1280 X 720 DLP chip.

"Has no other HD931 owner noticed this?-HDJ"

I have a Samsung HD931 and I see no sync issues.

hello everyone: my DWIN is up and performing with state of the art dlp PQ. I am using a 92 x 52 Firehawk screen. Video inputs include: Proceed PMDT dvd (component, interlaced); xBox (component, progressive); DISH6000 (VGA); laptop (VGA).

as one of the new owners, i guess i got the benefit of an DWIN's responsiveness to this thread. I have zero issues with respect to calibration, HDCP, remote control response, or the like.

from a physical point of view, the light spill for me consists solely of the cresent on the ceiling (which is black) and behind my line of sight anyhow. Besides with my prior pj with an anamorphic lens attached, i had more light spill. I will try Don's gaffer tape..or ideally by the time i get around to that, DWIN will offer modified lens caps. The other light spill from the rear vents is a total non-issue for me.

On the other hand, the sound level is a bit loud, and i plan to box in the rear of the pj somehow and connect/vent it though the rear wall sheetrock. I will post my designs when completed. My thinking so far will also eliminate what i think is a higher heat level than my prior pj. I've seen hush box postings, but has anyone thought out a solution along my line of thought? ... just boxing in the rear end?

But all in all, physically, the TV3 is a big winner for me. It's tiny, easy to adjust, set up, etc. Ok...enough of the new owner babbling...i know this thread is not for that purpose.

And as far as PQ: well all i can say is that i am a critical consumer...but when set up correctly with quality inputs, the PQ is the best I've seen so far; anyone complaining must either have a defective unit, poor source equipment, or maybe hyper-sensitivity to rainbows.

(oops..i said i would stop...forgive me Don!)

Now to the help section. Has anyone used an Apple iBook laptop as a video source? I can't seem to get a correct sync. Its native resolution is 1024 x 768, although i believe that can be pushed to 1600 x 1200 with an external monitor. At best i get about 1/3 of the screen displayed. With my IBM Thinkpad, I sycnc with the DWIN almost instantly...either at 1400 x 1050 or at 1024 x 768. Both machices are supposed to auto-detect the external monitor/pj. Any thoughts?

Also I am getting the Bravo D1 tomorrow (i hope) and i can't wait to see the DVI quality.

But my other question is how many people use DVI out from cable boxes? I was told I could have scientif atlanta swap out my 4200HD box without DVI for one with DVI...anyone do that? (I will post this in the satellite hardware forum too).

Thanks again for convincing me to buy the TV3..i love it!

Originally posted by andaleon
"Are you talking about the 8400? I dont know of this does 720p- FreddeGandis"

I can't imagine why not? Marantz' VP-12SD2 uses the same 1280 X 720 DLP chip.

"Has no other HD931 owner noticed this?-HDJ"

I have a Samsung HD931 and I see no sync issues.




I have an 8400 and even though the DVI is not enabled "yet" it will only output 480p. Atleast that what's my dealers said.

-sonny

Robster1958,

You need to set the desktop to 1280 x 720, which is the native resolution of the TV3, this should allow you to use the computer.

Enjoy your new toy!

Robster1958,

You need to set the desktop to 1280 x 720, which is the native resolution of the TV3, this should allow you to use the computer.

Enjoy your new toy!

Originally posted by sbaillar
I have an 8400 and even though the DVI is not enabled "yet" it will only output 480p. Atleast that what's my dealers said.

-sonny

Thats what I was talking about. I would be all over that if it did 720p:(

Udate on the FAQ-
I have pretty much taken care of all the beaten to death light spills, noise and air filtering issues in the FAQ rough draft-
What I could use some help with is stuff just like was posted above regarding computer connections and setup. Good stuff on the settings for best results.
Anyone wish to contribute info on the Bulb data? Other sources? MSRP.
I think this could be good info for the FAQ as welll as life expectancy.

Also, anyone want to contribute info on factory default menu setups? Stuff like this would be great for those who fail to write it down, getinto the menus and screwit up and don't know how to get back to a starting point.

For new people, maybe a reinforcement on the DVI cable specs. I recall several asking about that back in the beginning as people were trying to plan their installation. I, for one needed to know the diameter of the cable and the round plug.

I could do all the above but have asked for you all to contribute. These areas I have not yet done.

Also, anyone want to contribute info on factory default menu setups? Stuff like this would be great for those who fail to write it down, getinto the menus and screwit up and don't know how to get back to a starting point.

Don,
I remember reading someones post where they posted values of their defaults, and those differed from mine(not y much, but there was a difference).

Is there going to be a place where the service level code is revealed in the FAQ?

I am willing to help as best as I can. This is more than a one man job here, so everyone should be pitching in.

What can I do(granted my knowledge on the DWIN isn't up to par with yours) to help?

Fred

For new people, maybe a reinforcement on the DVI cable specs. I recall several asking about that back in the beginning as people were trying to plan their installation. I, for one needed to know the diameter of the cable and the round plug.


The DVI cables that the Dwin calls for(according to Roger) are DVI-D single link cables. I remember wondering about this awhile ago, but there wasn't much info.

DVI cable measurements:
Gerth is 2.5 inches in the largest spot on the TV3s side of the plug
The Diameter of the end of the plug on the TV3s side is right around .5 inches


These are LIST prices(not street:)) MSRP(all shown in US dollars):
DWIN TV3: $10,500
DWIN Ceiling Mount: $230.00
DWIN DVI TV3 Cord(45 foot is what I ordered(the prices start at 25 feet, and as the cable gets bigger, so does the price): 255.00 (45 foot)

Service Level Defaults(after the board upgrade):

Under the White Balance tab
R Balance: 53
G Balance: 41
B Balance: 51
Index Delay: 205

http://www.dwin.com/downloads/manual_tv3.pdf

Here is a link to the Owners manual for the TV3

Contacting Dwin:



DWIN Electronics, Inc.
710 N. Mariposa St.
Burbank, CA. 91506

Phone: (818) 239-1500
Fax: (818) 239-1506

E-mail: info@dwin.com
techsupport@dwin.com
sales@dwin.com

http://www.dwin.com/calculator.htm

The Throw distance calculator from DWIN

From the DWIN website:



TransVision™3 Versus the Competition

Front projection systems for home theater have been swiftly gaining popularity. DLP™ Technology from Texas Instruments is the latest to be incorporated into front projection systems, especially after the introduction of the high-definition 1280 x 720 (720p) resolution DMD. Recently a number of manufactures introduced DLP™ projectors based on TI's HD2+ DMD for the home theater front projection market.

In most home theater environments, the projector is mounted on the ceiling and the cables connecting the projector to the video sources typically are run through the inside of the walls. A full blown home theater requires that the projector accept and display at least one of each video signal types (Composite, S-Video, Component, RGB, and DVI (HDCP) and provide connectivity to DVD players, Satellite and Cable Converters, VHS and D-VHS VCRs, HDTV Tuners, PVRs (Personal Video Recorders), and personal computers.

Competing projectors are designed with all video inputs and controls positioned on the projector itself, requiring several video cables and additional equipment to switch and control the video sources. These rival systems not only make installation very difficult, they are also not cost-effective.

DWIN's TransVision™3 is the only projection system consisting of uniquely designed complementary components, a 720p DLP™ projector and a Video Processor.

The TransVision™'s Video Processor accepts 10 video inputs (2 DVI with HDCP, 2 RGB, 2 Component, 2 S-Video, and 2 Composite), performs digital video signal processing/scaling, and provides video source switching and video controls. Unlike competing projectors, TransVision™'s Video Processor is designed to be located in the home cinema component rack near all of the video sources.

All analog/digital video signals are processed into a 1280 x 720 resolution digital (DVI) signal and the output of the Video Processor is connected to TransVision™'s DLP™ Projector via a single proprietary digital (DVI) cable.

DWIN, in conjunction with Total Technologies Limited, has developed proprietary DVI cables to connect the TransVision™ 3 Video Controller to our DLP™ Projector.



The standard rectangular DVI connector is fairly large in size (approximately 2" wide) making it difficult to run through the walls. DWIN's solution is to terminate one end of the DVI cable with a .75" circular connector that can easily run through a 1" conduit. DWIN offers these proprietary cables in 6 different lengths: 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, and 50 feet.

Another common problem found in rival projectors is the ability to project images below the projector's lens level for a comfortable eye-level viewing. Some projectors offer a lens shift mechanism for adjusting the projection angle i.e. offset projection, but the range is limited to the lens level. Some do not offer lens shift at all.

To position the screen for proper viewing level, rival projectors must be tilted: Unfortunately, tilting the projector causes a "Keystone" shaped distorted image. To correct this problem, these projectors offer digital keystone adjustment. This "adjustment" reduces the width of the image at the bottom of the screen by allowing the user to electronically alter the image until it is the same width at the top and bottom. Reducing the image width consequently reduces the horizontal resolution and the picture quality deteriorates considerably.

DWIN's TransVision™3 is the only projection system that has a lens-shift mechanism with an offset range of 40% of screen height from lens level. This means, for example, with a TransVision™3 flush-mounted to the ceiling and used with a 100" wide screen, you could place the top visible portion of the screen a full 30" down from the ceiling (to calculate your screen, use the projector throw distance calculator).

Obviously, the best way to replicate the true cinematic experience is to deliver the best picture quality possible. To do this, a DLP™ projector must incorporate an optical system that can ensure the highest contrast ratios and lowest black levels. The competition uses optical systems that were originally designed for the business display market.

The DLP™ projection systems employ a DMD device that reflects light from its array of moveable micromirrors. The light coming from the lamp illuminates the DMD's surface and then the individual micromirrors steer the light through the projection lens and onto the screen. For a totally black screen the micromirrors must steer all the light away from the projection lens. A small amount of light from the DMD leaks into the projection lens, causing a dark gray field, rather than a pure black. Texas Instrument is continuously improving the DLP™ technology.

The optical design of competing projectors utilize a Total-Internal-Reflectance (TIR) prism in-between the DMD and the projection lens to separate the illumination and projection light. The TIR prism's surface reflections significantly increase the scattered light entering the lens, resulting in a degradation of contrast.

DWIN's TransVision™3 optical system is designed without a TIR prism, or any other lens, between the DMD and the projection lens, guaranteeing the highest contrast ratio of any DLP™: projector in the home theater front projection market.

Since most competitors have come from the presentation (data) projector business, only discovering the Home Theater market recently, the majority of their projector knowledge is for Data projectors, which were never designed to handle video properly. Conversely, since 1990, DWIN has designed and built all of its projectors exclusively for the Home Theater market. In addition, all DWIN video systems incorporate our proprietary, patented, award-winning video processing.

Finally, the cable and satellite providers have recently announced that their future set top boxes will have a DVI/HDCP output. DVI or Digital Visual Interface is a digital video connectivity standard developed by DDWG (Digital Display Work Group) as a way to transport digital video from a source to a digital display. HDCP, or High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, is an encryption/decryption standard for DVI signals.

In anticipation of this upcoming standard, DWIN has licensed DVI and HDCP technologies and have implemented them into our TransVision™3 to ensure that our customers will not be denied these higher resolution sources.

Perhaps even more impressive than all of its technical capabilities, in a 720p DLP™ market which ranges in price from 10K to 17K, the US-built TransVision™3 is priced at $10,500.00 - making it not only the best projection system but the best value as well.





© DWIN Electronics, Inc. 2003. All rights reserved.

Here is a shot of the back panel in the Transcaler box for the TV3

Also from DWIN:

Projector Specifications Processor Specifications

Display Device: 1280x720 DMD HD2+
(Digital Micro-mirror Device)

Aspect Ratio: 16:9, 4:3 Anamorphic, Letterbox

Native Resolution: 1280 x 720 / 16:9

Number of Pixels: 921,600

Screen Configuration: Front or Rear Throw

Mounting: Floor or Ceiling

Zoom Range: 1.5:1

Image Size: 60 to 200 inch diagonal

Throw Distance: 1.41 to 2.1 times Screen Width

Projection Offset: Lens Level to 40% of Picture Height

Light Source: 200 Watt Lamp

Lamp Life: 2000 Hours

Light Output: 1200 Lumens

Contrast: 2000:1

DVI: Proprietary Digital

AC Power: 3 Prong Power

Power Source: 100-130 VAC, 50/60 Hz

Power Consumption: 240 Watts (5 Watts Standby)

Dimensions WxDxH: 13.5 x 13 x 5 inch

Weight: 15 lbs

Cabinet Color: Midnight Metallic Blue
or Flat White

Operating Conditions
Temperature: 50° - 90° F / 10° - 32° C

Included Accesories
Two Power Cables, 8 Device Preprogrammed Remote Control and User's Manual

Optional Accessories
Replacement Lamp, Ceiling Mount Kit with Three Dimensional Tilt Adjustments, 19" Rack-mount Kitfor Controller, Proprietary Digital Cables Connecting Controller to the Projector: 25', 30', 35', 40', 45' and 50'


Processor Specifications:

Video Standards: HDTV / DTV / NTSC / PAL

Scanning Formats: 480i, 480p, 540p, 580i, 580p, 720p, 1080i

PC Signals: VGA / SVGA / XGA / SXGA

Inputs:

DVI (HDCP): 2 x DVI D

Component: 2 x RCA, Y: 1 Vp-p / 75 ohm,
Pb Pr: 0.7 Vp-p / 75 ohm

S-Video: 2 x 4 pin Mini-Din
Y: 1 Vp-p / 75 ohm
C: 0.286 Vp-p / 75 ohm

Composite: 2 x RCA: 1 Vp-p / 75 ohm

RGB/PC: 2 x HD-15 Pin

Serial: D-9 Pin
RS-232 Compatible

AC Power: 3 Prong Receptacle


Outputs:

DVI: 1 x DVI D

12V Triggers : 2 x Mini Plug


Power Source: 100-130 VAC

Power Consumption: 25 Watts

Dimensions WxDxH: 17 x 12.75 x 3.5 inch

Weight: 18 lbs

$450 is the cost of a new bulb. (MSRP and Wholesale) from DWIN.

DWIN supposedly changed vendors for their bulbs very recently (per my Dealer Rep) - I'm not sure if it changed which specific model of bulb they are using or not. (I've yet to have a bad bulb in ANY of the many TV3 installs I have out there.) This new vendor may favorably affect the price, but I'm not sure for now. If I don't find out before CEDIA, I'll make sure and do so when I have my meeting with them. I'll also find out if it can be purchased direct from the bulb vendor or does it need modification from DWIN before it is ready.

I'll also be happy to contribute to the FAQ - Don...it's time for delegation...Whatever section you want to task me, I'm fine with it. Just let me know.

Brent Huskins
Media Design

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=3955&size=big&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

Here is a pic of the completed lens cap tweak

I uploaded a few OK screenshots(see my link in my sig to see the screenies). The reason I took these was to show the difference between the different types of screens(1.3 vs 0.8 grey vs 1.4).

Wow, Fred, I can't believe how small the opening is in that lens cap fix! It looks like half your picture would be cut off.

I'll also be happy to contribute to the FAQ - Don...it's time for delegation...Whatever section you want to task me, I'm fine with it. Just let me know.

Brent Huskins

Oh, you gotta take advantage of this situation Don! Brent is virtually giving you permission to take advantage of him. The more difficult the task, the better!

Oh, and he has to have it completed prior to CEDIA!

:D

On a more serious note, I know that none of the bulbs for these pj's are cheap, but $450.00? Ouch! That's gonna hurt.

If you get the rated hours out of it, Just drop a quarter in the jug for every hour you watch and that should buy you the new bulb with the shipping and tax! Last I heard the DILA bulbs were a grand.

I have some new stuff to report on an older topic-

Air filters:
Just took the PJ down today to examine my internal filter and it was loaded with dust! But the inside of the projector was completely clean. Before I had the Projector about 3 weeks and it had a thin coating of dust that I cleaned off. I'm sure glad I installed the air intake filter. The new filter is external and I can clean it without taking the projector down.

I completed the new Scotch box mask. I will post a construction procedure that allows for perfect fit and cutout. It is not possible to publish a cutout dimension because each installation will have a different size. I do not see how Dwin could make a standard cap because of this unless they figure out a way to make the mask internal before the zoom and image elevation adjustment. Not sure if that would work then.

Let me get to some pictures I took and I will set up a post of them later.

I will also include this procedure in the FAQ, with pictures.





Brent- Since you have access to many TV3's, can you confirm whether the menu settings (both user and hidden) are all custom for each projector, or are they standard for all. If they are standard do you want to format a chart just like they appear in the Dwin Menu with the numbers?
Also, the same question for the HDCP upgrade. Are those settings all the same for every board? You could be a great resource for answering these questions.

If you get the rated hours out of it, Just drop a quarter in the jug for every hour you watch and that should buy you the new bulb with the shipping and tax!

Funny you say that Don. Immediately after posting the above, I pulled out my calculator and came to the same conclusion. It comes out to somewhere around 22 to 25 cents an hour. If you look at it that way, it doesn't seem so bad.

Several ideas have been presented to fix the lens spill but this latest one appears to be the best to date. It will fix the lens spill regardless of whether you have a table top mount or ceiling mount and it will fix the spill even for those installations that had the offending light on a said wall.

Thanks to Fred DeGrandis for finding the near perfect size lens cap that was used in this fix.

The through the lens light spill will appear like a crescent shape image of white light on the ceiling in front of the projector in a ceiling mounted installation. The size and distance will vary depending on the actual installation dimensions.

http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/LSC1.jpg

Start by purchasing a roll of Scotch brand electrical tape that comes in a translucent plastic case. http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/ScotchTape88.jpg


Use the lid for the case which is a loose fit over the lens. You may need to insert a shim to fill out the ID of the Scotch case lid for a press-on fit. I used a strip of gaffers tape for this shim.


http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/LSC2.jpg

Next, Place the lid with the shim on the lens and with your TV3 calibrated to screen dimensions, mark the outline of the image area on the cap with a Sharpie pen.

http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/LSC3.jpg

Cut the rectangular area out with a sharp knife or razor blade, making a nice rectangular opening. This area is not critical and should be slightly larger than the image area as opposed to smaller. Note that your particular size of the cutout and position vertically will depend on your installation so it is not possible for me to supply you with actual dimensions. Just follow this procedure to determine your own cut-out size.

http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/LSC4.jpg

The final step is to remove the Cap and apply a few coats of black spray paint. Let dry and then simply place the cap back on the lens.

http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/LSC/LSC5.jpg

Here is a picture of the new air filter I installed on the outside. It will allow me to visually inspect the condition and dust buildup now and clean with a vacuum cleaner hose without removing the projector. It is easly removed and replaced with the 4 self taping screws. Junk box parts' I plan to purchase some new screws tomorrow! :)

http://www.scubatech.com/TV3/ExtAirFilter.jpg


Filter media used was:

Frost King AC Filter 15"x24"x1/4"
F1524

Don,
After reading Fred's post with his factory settings I also have the same question as mine are different than his. My unit was built on 05/27/03 and has the 45 chip. The settings under White Balance are.
R Balance 55
G Balance 38
B Balance 41
Index Delay 209

It looks like the settings might be custom to each unit. It would be nice to find out for sure.

Don, Great posts!

I will try and get to your filter tweak as soon as possible. Any recomendations on what material to use?

Also, Please make sure people know to take down the lens cap cover before they cut it out. What may seem like common sense may not be to others.

Don,

any reason i couldn't just use a narrow strip of velcro all-around the edges of the dust filter....self tapping srcews make me nervous <!>

also...just to confirm...that front filter is all that's necessary?

is this the correct tape??

well...that didn't work.

how about a link then:

scotch tape (http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jhtml?CATID=100446&PRODID=17716)

I tried Velcro too. It didn't stick to the filter sponge. I wanted to use a piece of metal molding with a slot in it to slide in the filter but I had looked for a month for something off the shelf I could recommend but found nothing I liked. Since I needed to get this done, I decided to use the screws. I understand how some may feel about doing any modification to their box, especially those who want to resell the TV3. I guess all I can say is you're on your own. Be creative and figure something else out and post it here.

Fred- Good point! But, How far does one go when posting an idea tweak? Goggles gloves vapor mask warnings?

Robster1958- No, it's the box lid you are looking for not the tape necessarily. That is a different packaging. The source of tape was Scotch brand tape as sold at Home Depot. It comes in a round polyethylene box that has a lid that is 3.56" diameter that just slips over your lens diameter. Since it is translucent it makes determining the size of the cutout easy, but you have to paint it black or it won't work as a light spill mask. I will search for a picture of the packaging to help those who can't figure it out. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture of the tape before I cut it up.

Regarding the filter- The key is to also seal off all other leaks that would alow dusty air to seep into the case. I have sealed these around the lens, a crack in the plactic next to the lens and around the cable jacks. All these are in the front. I posted pictures of these earlier in the thread.

Brent- Can you find out some details on these factory settings? It appears that each is projector is different but how would they know what settings to program the replacement stuff to when the dealers just install those HDCP parts indiscriminately? I think we're missing part of the puzzle on this.

It appears that each is projector is different but how would they know what settings to program the replacement stuff to when the dealers just install those HDCP parts indiscriminately?

That's a good point!

Makes me glad that my Dwin came from the factory with the HDCP upgrade already in place.

The factory settings are definitely different per each new TV3. Rumor has it that Mr. Dwin himself does the final adjustments before shipment.

As to the upgrade boards - I'm not quite sure. My guess is that it restores the values to factory defaults per your machine when you switch out the chip and or board. The new machines coming out now have the new chip/board and are already factory tweaked with the new hardware so it's not an issue going forward. It really only affects the early adopters that got a board change. I have 1 last update to do - (Toxarch - a mater of fact - I'll get with him to do it this week hopefully) Then I'll be able to note how the hardware changes affect the software settings.

Brent Huskins
Media Design

[i]"Makes me glad that my Dwin came from the factory with the HDCP upgrade already in place.[i]"

So you assume that makes a difference? Does Dwin ISF screen calibrate every projector or do they just bench adjust the settings to some pre decided value set?
Based on what I have learned reading from the ones we feel are "experts" it would seem that the ISF calibration is not a permanent thing anyway. As the bulb ages you would need to redo it. IF Dwin does custom calibrate their projectors at the factory, it would be for a new bulb and every ISF Tech says this is not an accurate way to do it. That you need to wait for the bulb to age for a hundred hours or so. Based on all this including the HDCP boards and chips replacement procedure, I'm thinking Dwin uses factory preset list values, but I still have more to learn.

Thanks Brent- I'm hoping you or someone can finalize this issue. Maybe I need to think about hiring in my local ISF guru to calibrate the projector as my unit was field upgraded. I have about 670 hours now. I have a new spare bulb in the box waiting. Wouldn't a newer bulb be bluer in color temperature?

But Don,

Those defaults are different from machine to machine - I've confirmed that numerous times.

Brent Huskins
Media Design

Just so I'm clear- Defaults on the factory or defaults on the board replacement? I suppose you will confirm this when you do Toxach later. I wrote down all my settings before and after board replacement so if you need another data set I have it. I never adjusted any of the hidden menu factory presets either. They are as they came. The board I got to replkace the original did not have factory presets set to center so they must have been set to some standard. Hope you can find out the bottom line on all this confusion. It may open a can of worms.

better paint the inside of that lenscap project matte black to stop light bouncing back into lens, no?

So you assume that makes a difference?

Yep.

See Brent's response.

thanks Don...

I thought it was the covering from the blister pack. I can go to home depot easily enough and get the canister one. I was thinking about using the lid from these little hard candies my wife gets.....but wasn't sure about using my blowtorch so close to the lens :)

also for the paint job, i guess to be really paranoid i could use flat black barbeque paint.

i think i will try a drop or two of clear silicone to attach the filter...thats my adhesive of choice for low stress connections. did i miss it...should i just use any cellulose-type filter?

Yeah, I do still need to swap out the board. I've just been lazy since I don't need it right away. Off the record, I think I am supposed to swap out the C2 for free and haven't done that yet either.

I've been trying to find a black filter material to use on the DWIN. I found one thin black one like Don has, but it's sold with a big lawn mower that I don't need at all. Don, what department did you find the filter in? I'll look again when I go to get the Scotch tape cap today.

Robster, you don't need to silicone it in unless you really want to. I think Don just used the gaffers tape to decrease the diameter of the lens cap so it fits snug on the lens.

I noticed a number on the inside of the factory lens cap. It is 88.8 so maybe it means 88.8 millimetes. I don't have a metric tape handy to measure it right now.

"but wasn't sure about using my blowtorch so close to the lens "

LOL! Yep, And you were worried about screws?

Silicone is not a bad idea. The disadvantage I see is that removal is more involved when you need to change it. I do think it would work.

The filter media I published earlier in the thread but specifically it was purchased at Home Depot too. It is 1/4" thick and comes packaged about 2 square ft. that you can cut to size with a scissors. You'll have enough to last the life of the projector and it costs a couple bucks. I did some temperature tests last month to see if there was an increase in temperature on the exhaust air with and without this filter restriction. There was no measurable difference in ait temperature so I presume the air flow restriction due to this filter is nil.


Yes, I did use flat black barbeque grille spray paint because I had some on the shelf. I painted the inside and outside several coats to prevent the reflections of that light ring from spilling back into the lens. Cap on or off doesn't make any difference on screen image that I can see. However it completely eliminates the light spill on the ceiling from the lens. The only light spill that remains for me is a very dim orange glow behind the projector but it is only visible when the screen is black and I stare at it for awhilwe and my eyes get adjusted. The rear spill from the exhaust vents I believe would be more of an issue for a table top set projector directly in front of you than the ceiling mount. I don't recall anyone using a table top installation.

Toxarch-

I think he was talking about mounting the air filter with silicone RTV, not the lens cap. I believe you do need the shim because the cap is just too large and will fall off without it.

The AC filter media was found in the same asile as the window airconditioners. They have several varieties to select from. Do you people need me to search for more detail on it?

For now look at Post #328 on page 17
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=263971&perpage=20&pagenumber=17




"It is 88.8 so maybe it means 88.8 millimetes. I don't have a metric tape handy to measure it right now."

88.8mm / 25.4mm/inch = 3.496 inches :)

not for me...that's what i thought it was.

actually i just got an idea for my rear-only hush box (should i be calling this a butt-box??) : I will try using this same filter foam around the edges of the enclosure. That way it will deform when sliding the cover on the pj, but still provide a snug fit. I would prefer not to physically connect the butt-box to the pj.

since my pj is just 14" from the rear wall , and basically flush-mounted to the ceiling, what i envision is a 3-sided box....approx. 13.5" wide to to accomodate the pj, 7" tall to accomodate the pj on bracket, and 14" long to reach the rear wall.

the open ends of my box would have the pj at the front (with the foam barrier wedge), the ceiling would form the top of the box, and the rear wall will form the back of the box.

ideally, the box will be light enough to require minimal support near the pj end and then more substantial support into the sheetrock wall.

behind the sheet rock wall, i have to still figure out the venting of the heat. i believe i would want an exhaust fan to pull out the hot air from the tunnel i created.

i also need to think out how to get the flush seal to the ceiling...foam again?

Robster,

I used a very quite bathroom fan for my hushbox ventilation. I first tried various ac and dc fans and they were all just too loud. The Nutone LS-50 works like a charm for me and you have to strain to hear it when the room is dead silent.


Question for anyone who's studied the guts of the Dwin projector:

Is the HD2 chip socketed or soldered? Just curious since the HD2+ chip will be coming soon..

kraig, I've opened the DWIN case several times. I've seen the top of the HD2 chip, but haven't uncovered it to see if it is socketed or not. It's hidden under a metal cover and I didn't want to mess with the cover for fear of doing something to the chip. It's a bit of work to get to.

Don, I had read the post before and looked up and down the AC filter aisle. I even got an employee who walked around the store looking in different departments with me. The closest thing we found was about 2" x 2" x 1 foot. Nothing that was 1/4" thick. I don't think they had window AC units on that aisle. I'll look again.

OK, just got back from Home Depot on another mission...

Here's the specs and Sorry I didn'tr supply them earlier.

Frost King AC Filter 15"x24"x1/4"
F1524

I went to a different HD store and this one had all the HVAC filters in an asile by themselves. It comes in a plastic bag with the big Frost King logo

They have several other 1/4" thick filters too that would probably work the same.

Here is a pic of the electrical tape

I didn't have time to read everything but I did notice on this last page that you are building hushboxes for your dwin. Why is this? I am just curious.

Ingle,

The light spill, noise and lack of filtration were the reasons I built a hushbox. The hushbox solved all three problems for me and imho made it better as the operating temperature is a constant 80 and the air is filtered and it is dead silent.

I finally received DVI-I/O upgrade boards and new micro-controller ICs with Rev. 45 software for the early machines I sold. All you need are a couple of phillips screwdrivers, a couple of nut drivers (3/16, 5/16") and a PLCC socket IC remover (or a small flat screwdriver). Procedure takes about 15 minutes.

Hi guys,

I have a quick question:

I'm trying to figure out where I'm going to setup my future TV3 and in the process of ordering my screen and hushbox.

From the specs, looks like the Dwin supports a "picture offset" and from the calculator on the Dwin website, I can see that the offset goes one way (ie: if the projector is on the ceiling, I seem to be able to offset the picture lower). But can I offset the picture the other way? For example, would I be able to offset the picture upwards if the pj is ceiling-mounted?

Thank you.

-eric

No - unless you mounted it right side up somehow, but then the screen would start a few inches above the feet of the TV3. The screen can start at 6" below the ceiling and can't go any higher if properly ceiling mounted.

Are you trying to mount it upright or upside down?

I sent a PM as well...

Brent Huskins
Media Design

Thanks for the information Brent,

I'll most probably mount it upside down on the ceiling, but I'm trying to figure out my options. Looks like a few of them aren't available to me from the information you gave me.

-eric

Don,
I just did your filter mod. My HD didn't have any of the filters you described, so I went with Vent Filters(electrostatic register filtration. They are white, and feel very much like the filters that you would use on your furnace. They are thin, and able to be cut to size. What I did was cut very small strips of velcro(the tiny hard velcro, not the softer side of it), and put them along the perimeter of the intake vent. Then, I just placed the filter on top of the velcr and pushed. A nice tight bond was made, and it will hold up.

http://www.webproducts.com/vent_register/index.html

This is the filters that I used

Our HD didn't have the filters Don described either. I saw the register filters but decided against those for now. First, they're white and nothing but the main door is white. I could cut a regular air filter and get a good white filter. Second, on the package it mentions not to use those register filters on all the registers of an AC unit. It restricts too much air flow and can build up too much pressure for an AC unit. So, I didn't want to restrict the air intake of the projector too much. Maybe I just got too scared reading the label's warning. After all, a lot less air moves through the projector than an AC register.

Fred, you want to take some temp readings with the filter and without the filter for us?

I had an idea for holding the filter on. Cut the filter bigger than the intake grill. If you are worried about clogging the filter for some reason, use some masking tape in the center of the filter that is the size of the intake area. Spray some spray adhesive onto the filter, let it dry for a minute. Now stick the filter to the projector intake grill. Letting the spray adhesive dry for a minute will allow the filter to stick firmly, but prevent the sticky adhesive from transferring to the projector case when you pull the filter back off. A 3M General Purpose 45 Spraying adhesive will work fine. The 77 is stronger, but the projector might be sticky after pulling off the filter. The only problem I think there might be is if the filter comes apart when pulling it off.

Instead of masking tape on the filter, you could use pins and a piece of paper. Just do it over a scrap piece of wood.

Originally posted by Toxarch
Our HD didn't have the filters Don described either. I saw the register filters but decided against those for now. First, they're white and nothing but the main door is white. I could cut a regular air filter and get a good white filter. Second, on the package it mentions not to use those register filters on all the registers of an AC unit. It restricts too much air flow and can build up too much pressure for an AC unit. So, I didn't want to restrict the air intake of the projector too much. Maybe I just got too scared reading the label's warning. After all, a lot less air moves through the projector than an AC register.

Fred, you want to take some temp readings with the filter and without the filter for us?



I wondered the same thing, so I havent used it yet. I have an email out to Roger at Dwin, and I also asked Don what he though via PM, but I have not heard back yet. How could I take temp readings?

Thanks,
Fred

Dust Filter-

I would be surprised if Dwin would endorse any non-specification filter on their Projector design. I would be surprised if they would endorse ANY user tweak to their projector design. They certainly did not endorse the changing of the factory settings in the menus. If they thought the TV3 needed dust filters they would have designed the projector with them. I would guess that their philosophy is to allow the dust to build up inside the projector and then ship the unit back to Dwin for cleaning and overhaul periodically as needed. I live in Florida where pollen is the main dust problem. In just 2 weeks after using the TV3 for about 6 hours per day, I saw a significant amount of dust buildup on the open optics inside the projector. I spent at least an hour cleaning this dust off the internal parts of the unit. I installed the filter I posted specifications on and after 2 months the inside was completely dust free with the filter doing it's job. The latest suggestion to install the filter media on the outside was so I could see the filter easily and clean it or replace it much easier when it needed.

The greatest fear you should have when adding your own filter media is how much restriction to the flow of air you will allow. Reducing the air flow will be directly related to an increase in exit air temperature. I ran the projector for several hours in the stock (no filter) condition and noted the air temperature. After adding the filter I did the same test and made sure the exit air temperature was not higher than before. The Frost King Filter media is a standard brand. There were several other filters that Home Depot had but they all seemed to be tighter and more restrictive. If you all decide to experiment with your own filters and mounting as with using spray ahhesives on the filter media, I'd suggest doing your own temperatrure tests to be sure you are not restricting air flow that will cause overheating.
As for white color- Color has nothing to do with this except for appearance when you mount the filter on the outside. Home Depot had several 1/4 and 1/8" thick filters that were dark gray to charcoal black and of a very open design like the one from Frost King. Should be no need to use white, blue, pink, or green.

Finally, all other air leaks and cracks must be sealed up. If you allow these to remain open then dusty air will still enter the projector making the purpose of your filter useless.
Measuring the exit air temperature- I have a small digital thermometer I use with a remote sensor. I pushed this sensor into the light compartment exhaust, closed up the box and mounted the projector for the evening and then I could see the temperature of the exhaust air from the bulb compartment. These small digital remote reading thermometers can be purchased from Radio Shack.



Internet search sources:

http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscssid=NKDPW1GA8NSR2PNN00JP48NH7RUU6R53&dept%5Fid=2966&sku=266299

http://www.castlewholesalers.com/searchresultskywd.cfm?searchby=keywords&phrase=Air%20Conditioner%20Filter
Product ID: 918F1524

http://www.aubuchonhardware.com/search.asp?searchType=0&search=Frost%20King
SKU: 266299

Eric-

Mount your PJ upside down, and as brent was saying at least 6" above the top of the screen... (Viewing surface)... this number can be exteneded via the lens shift to like 27 or something if I remember correctly.


Make sure you buy the DWIN mount as it is the only way to keystone and offset anything that is not leveled (ceiling etc) it can correct for both horizontal and vertical level issues.

other than that use the calculator based on your screen size to figure out the distance... and protect yourself and run some conduit if you can.

-ADS-

Don - what was the difference in temperature with and without the filter?

This FAQ is looking great so far!
I am so excited, I will be ordering my TV3 in the next 24 hours!!!!
FREAK!

"Make sure you buy the DWIN mount as it is the only way to keystone and offset anything that is not leveled (ceiling etc) it can correct for both horizontal and vertical level issues."

Not so. The Peerless mount is actually simpler and much easier to set up and take down. It comes with a special angled ceiling bracket that can be adjusted for non-level celings as shown- If you have a ceiling like mine then this type of mount is what I would recommend. There are other brand mounts that also use this adapter but Peerless was chosen because of it's easy butterfly style quick connect and disconnect.
The only issue I had with it is that it is not very rigid. But once positioned it stays put with no problems. The Dwin mount has a ton of screws and is very rigid. I have the new Dwin mount if anyone needs one. Make an offer!

Notice the butterfly mount to the TV3 plate. A half twist and it's released. The large square plate is drilled for the TV3 mounting holes in the case.To lock into place there is a thumb screw. The plate is fully adjustable because it is a locked ball and socket type of fitting.

http://www.tv-shopper.com/TV3/peerlessmount.jpg

This is a picture I took back when I was doing the installation.

kraigk-

There was no difference in the before filter and after filter temperature.


metallicafreak- You haven't even seen the FAQ draft. I have about 11 Q/A in it now and it is 4 pages long without pictures. I'm almost finished but I will not be done until this weekend. I will add to it as new info becomes available too. I do not plan on rewriting Dwin website info but will list a bunch of links where appropriate.

d4lions/Don,

Thanks for the info about the mounts.

I would like to be as near to the ceiling as possible in my case, as I'm thinking about getting a hush box for it (like http://www.whisperflow.com)and would like to have the air intake and outtake out of the ceiling ifself.

How tall is the DWIN mount? How about the Peerless? Are there any other ones are shorter?

Thank you guys.

-eric

If you don't have a ceiling that is at an angle and do not need extensions then the Dwin Mount should do fine. It will probably be the least thickness of them all and still have the adjustability you will need for alignment. Find out what you have to pay for the Dwin mount and send me an e-mail and we'll talk. If you find out that you do need to extend the distance between the PJ and the ceiling then I definitly recommend one of the other mounts or you can add your own fabricated flange and pipe from plumbing store for lot's cheaper cost. You have lots of options.

Don,
My ceilieing has a gradual inclining slope in the direction of the screen. Will the Dwin mount work or should I plan on the peerless?
FREAK!

Get the Peerless then...

Brent Huskins
Media Design

Cool! :)

Thanks Don.

-eric

Hi all,
Brent will be installing a TV3 for me pretty soon. Looking at Fred's post from a few days ago, he pasted a spec sheet from Dwin's webpage. In this spec sheet Dwin lists the DMD as a Mustang/HD2+. What does the '+' signify? AFAIK the replacement for the DMD has not been released yet. One of the names bandied about is HD2+ (2.5....). Is the Dwin the first using this DMD?

Thanks in advance.

AGN

Rooney you beat me to it. I was just about to post the same thing.
FREAK!

The HD2+ does indeed refer to the new "dimple fix" chip. Dwin posted this info prematurely, they do not expect to be shipping units with the new chip until October.

I posted a thread when the DWIN first came out showing my drop mount. I used the DWIN mount and made my own drop using flanges and threaded pipe like Don mentioned. The thread has pictures and a description. The drop cost me about $14 which included all the nuts and bolts needed. Here's a link if anyone wants to try it for themselves.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=250887

At one time there was talk that Dwin would possibly
perform an upgrade to the HD2plus chip and that the TV3 was designed to make this easy. Is this still a possibility? Anyone asked Dwin about this?

I was wondering the same thing Randall.

My guess would be:

1) This can't be done (the chip is probably soldered in)

2) If it could be done, cost would be prohibitive and not worth the small benefits gained. To me, cost prohibitive would be anything above $1800.00.

I spoke to Jeff Klida at DWIN about this a few weeks ago. He told me that the HD2 chip definitely COULD be exchanged for the HD2+ when available. What the cost would be or whether it actually is a possibility remains to be seen.

Don,
I have been to 2 Home depots, and a sears hardware, and I cant find that damn filter:(

Could you please share the skew number with us.

Also, was this is the same isle as the AC and furnace filters(along with the pipe insulation wraps)?

Fred- I already gave you all 3 additional sources with links. I did the footwork for you. Just go order it if your Home Depot doesn't carry Frost King parts.

Originally posted by Don Landis
Fred- I already gave you all 3 additional sources with links. I did the footwork for you. Just go order it if your Home Depot doesn't carry Frost King parts.

I just ordered it for 9.00:) Thanks for linking these Don. My HD does carry frost king stuff, but we couldn't find the specific filter you mentioned.

You paid $9.00 for the filter?!? Are you aware that the filter costs UNDER $1.00?

I noticed that one of Don's links was to a Do it Best site. We have one of their chain lumber yards in town so I stopped by there. I got a similar filter made by Purolator. It's washable and comes 2 to a pack for $0.96 and is dark grey.

One could cut the white filters for large AC units and use that. After all, some have white TV3s and white ceilings so it wouldn't be that noticeable. The intake filter is on the upper side of the DWIN when ceiling mounted so it won't be that noticeable unless you go to the screen and look back toward the projector. And the best reason is that you can tell from a distance when the white filter needs to be cleaned/replaced without climbing up a ladder.

I've never paid attention (and I recently changed my A/C intake filter) but how thick are the AC filters? Seems like they are thicker, and may be more difficult to work with.

From what I've read in the product info the warranty of the tv3 is only one year. Do you know if most tv3 dealers offer extended warranty? Has anyone ever tried to avail the extended warranty offered by major platinum/gold credit card? I somehow think that one year warranty is too short. What do you guys recommend?

-twelly