My Odometer is at 36,000.
It runs great!
I got it two years ago of some rich jerk, who gave it away for $700 so he could get a Plasma.
I now have it hooked up to my HTPC. The OTA HD shows are amazing. The desktop is terrible. I am running through the s-video out from my 7900gs card that splits into component to the tube.

Should I be using a "dongle" or converter to connect for better picture?

I thought I read something about this and powerstrip settings but it just faded out.

I was an 'early adopter', and got my F38310 from BJ's Wholesale Club about five years ago. It was a floor model that I bought for less than $1,000. No repairs to date, although we we would probably qualify as 'light' users, using the set mostly for movies from the DVD player.

We had DirecTV for a while with excellent results (dish still mounted on the chimney) but we eventually went to cable for economic reasons because the local cable company (RCN) bundled Internet, telephone and cable into one package.

We can tune OTA HD with excellent results here in the western suburbs of Boston.

Picture is still breathtaking, with color fidelity and clarity that are unmatched. Having said that, the TV is in a family room and it faces two six foot sliders, so daytime viewing isn't really possible due to reflections on the glass tube from the sliders. Never been a problem as the little TV we watch is always at night.

We had an addition put on the house a year ago and got a high-end Hitachi 42" plasma that we hung on the wall. First time we have ever had a second TV in the house. The picture is pretty impressive.

Recently saw a 46" Sony Bravia LCD (in BJ's again - got to keep away from BJ's!) that has an amazingly sharp, vivid and glare-free picture. So, I just today purchased a new Sony Bravia 46" over Ebay (got to keep away from Ebay also!) for an amazing $2,454 delivered from a seller with high and all essentially positive feedback. Will be curious to see how the Sony looks in our house.

Because I liked the F38310 so much I found a used one for $850 a few years ago which I gave to my daughter. Unfortunately, their TV is always on, probably 12+ hours a day (rots the brain). So far their TV hasn't hiccuped and the picture is still lifelike, bright, clear and has excellent color fidelity.

The plan is to give my little-used F38310 to my daughter to replace their much-used set, and to give their still perfect F38310 to my brother-in-law to replace his 32" Sony SD TV which is about ten years old. The only obvious difficulty with this plan is moving these two elephantine sets around. My son-in-law is over six feet and over 200 pounds but I'm an old guy and a puny 5' 10" at 165 pounds. We're both pretty strong, but this will be an interesting challenge. Wish me luck.

These TV's have no resale value because they are so big and heavy. If we can't move the two sets around as I propose, I'll probably have to give my set away ('free to a good home').

My wife has asked why I would replace such a wonderful TV that we never even use anymore, and I'm having a hard time giving her a rational answer.

how do you compare the f3810 vs the sony bravia and we are talking about the v2500 series right? aka V25L1

Well, we moved the F38310 last Saturday. We didn't follow Plan A which was to swap my F38310 for my daughter's and to give her F38310 to my brother-in-law. On paper it sounded fine, but these sets are pretty buly and my daughter's set still delivers a perfect picture. Moving a set entails the risk of damaging the internals or just plain banging or dropping it. So, why fix what isn't broken? Plan B, which we executed, involved giving our F38310 to my brother-in-law.

My son-in-law, who is over 6' and over 200lbs and I (5'10" and 170lbs) carried it a short way from my first floor (no steps) into the Pacifica. We drove to my brother-in-law's home where we carried it in one continuous trip (too heavy to put down and pick up again) about 20' to a flight of steps, up 16 steps (one decent sized landing in the middle) and then about 30' to a Sony stand for a Sony 36" TV. The RCA extends about 5" on each side of the Sony stand, but the stand is rated up to 260lbs and seemed quite stable with the 216lb RCA on it. We hooked up the cable line, DVD and VHS and everything worked fine. Brother-in-law will get a Comcast HD box this week.

This move isn't for the faint-of-heart. My son-in-law was on the low end of the set as we climbed the stairs. I'm 61 years old and reasonably fit. Ten or more years ago I would have been on the low end of the set going up the stairs. In college I was on the low end of an apartment sized refrigerator going up two flights of steps in a dorm. Back in the 60's an apartment sized refrigerator was like a small elephant.

My advice to any of you who anticipate the need to move one of these behomeths is to get at least two, preferably three pretty strong guys or two professional furniture movers. The third guy can support the set under the middle from the front if there is room for three sets of hands. Going up stairs or down a hallway there will only be room for two sets of hands. My brother-in-law was able to help a little, but not on the stairs where it would have made a real difference.

The replacement for the F38310 will be a Sony 46" LCD with 1080p. Although 1080p is still for the future, I look forward to the glare-free LCD screen in a room where the TV directly faces 12 ' of windows. I expect that the RCA, which has been bulletproof for five years of light use in our home, should give my brother-in-law a decade of the best HD picture I've ever seen on any TV. At least I hope so after the strain of moving the TV to his house.

I gotta say I love mine. However the new TV bug has bit me so I am contemplating sticking it up onebay or maybe here as well. I was thinking about $500 probably. It is the YX5 with upgraded caps. Seems fair. This thing does still put out a very nice picture that's for sure. But the one HD input is killing me.

I love my f38 and don't want to replace it. But. I am thinking about dumping directv for cable. I am worried that the picture quality through the component input won't be too good.

I have also heard that directv is changing the way they transmit their HD signal that will make our built-in directv tuner useless.

Anyone getting an HD signal from cable and how does it look?

Thanks!

I don't think you have anything to worry about. I dumped D* just over a year ago for Time Warner. While the SA8300HD's GUI isn't as nice as D*, the picture quality over component input is great. The remote control also does a good job of controlling all of my devices ( still one remote ).

I run it through a component switchbox and also have an XBOX 360 with awesome gaming, media extender, HD-DVD, HD videos on Live Market Place. I still love my 38" CRT and my supporting electornics have been modernized by basically just using the F38310 as a straight monitor.

I don't think you have anything to worry about. I dumped D* just over a year ago for Time Warner. While the SA8300HD's GUI isn't as nice as D*, the picture quality over component input is great. The remote control also does a good job of controlling all of my devices ( still one remote ).

I run it through a component switchbox and also have an XBOX 360 with awesome gaming, media extender, HD-DVD, HD videos on Live Market Place. I still love my 38" CRT and my supporting electornics have been modernized by basically just using the F38310 as a straight monitor.

What brand of component switcher are you using?

I gotta say I love mine. However the new TV bug has bit me so I am contemplating sticking it up onebay or maybe here as well. I was thinking about $500 probably. It is the YX5 with upgraded caps. Seems fair. This thing does still put out a very nice picture that's for sure. But the one HD input is killing me.

Sorry if I violated any rules with this posting. If it needs to be deleted I understand.

I too was using a (passive JVC) switcher. But got tired of getting up to switch. Also having to change picture settings between sources.

You be lucky to get $500. But it's not an outrageous asking price.
$300-$400 is more like it

Happy 6 year owner of the RCA F38310 little sister the RCA MM36100. Now only used for Xbox360 play by my kids

No... you are confused.

One more time:
the component inputs will ONLY accept a 480i, 480p or 1080i signal input. The component inputs will NOT accept a 720p signal NOR a 1080p signal.

Via the "internal tuner" (ota, analog cable, satellite)... 480i is upscaled to 540p, 720p upscaled to 1080i, 1080i remains 1080i.

I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.


Will

That is huge.

How does it look?

What is the H resolution?

That would be a big improvement in using this monster with an HTPC if we can get it to sync at that higher resolution.

1024x768 according to this:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/dvdplayers/728/samsung-dvd-hd841-universal-dvdsacd-player.html

Well, after all these years of F38310 threads... this is the first I've heard of that! :)
Interesting indeed!

I love my F38310...but with the prices of plazma tv's going down like a rock I often go to the stores and want to upgrade. But, I am very happy and will wait until my tv fails me. The on component input does hurt....I'm going to have to invest in a component switcher or get a new stereo receiver that has it built in. I hate running an HD feed through a switcher....I can't get it out of my mind that I am degrading the picture somehow by doing so.

vinnyv07 is their really a point in upgradinig this type of tv yet? i mean i can deal
with the space issue because i care about quality and i belive the only plasma that share quality they would be the pioneer .......

the only reason why i wanted to upgrade this tv was for

*PC PORT*

*1080P*

*HDMI*

*BIGGER SIZE* (most importanly

I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.


Will


I have been thinking about this. Even if our tv will accept 768p, no dvd player can legally send a signal out above 480p. Are you saying this one will?

I have a Buffalo Link Theater and they claim 720p and 1080i output with dvds only with the "beta" firmware. I can't really tell if it is, but some dvds look great while others don't. Could just be the way they are mastered.

Does our tv turn 480p compoment input in to 540p?

Several DVD players currently available will output 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, & 1080P.
The higher resolutions are only available via HDMI however.

Several DVD players currently available will output 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, & 1080P.
The higher resolutions are only available via HDMI however. not exactly , im using a panny dvd upconverter via componet to 1080i

and since you can use 1080P on componet i dont see why hdmi is the only way
of course hdmi is digital and looks alot more better but you dont need hdmi (in this case we cant use it and we still benefit from componet cables WHEN input componet mode

John/Hob,
You should be well aware that "older" or "hacked" upconverting DVD players may allow 1080i via component. The reality is that the majority of new players do not allow higher than 480p via component due to copy protection restrictions.

i have the panasonic vhs to dvd player combo dmr-es46v , btw why u keep on calling me hob?????

i have the panasonic vhs to dvd player combo dmr-es46v , btw why u keep on calling me hob?????


You know who you are Hob so quit playing dumb just admit it to us. we wont run you off or report you. There is no way there are two ppl that post like you do and own an F38310.

;)

We were all big Hob fans (with the possible exception of the moderators).

I know this is probably a silly question. But I am trying to send the signal from the '#2' tuner in my Dish Network DVR box to my f38310 over coax cable. I have to do this because the DVR is about 90 feet from the TV. I can't find the Dish signal when I connect the coax cable to either the satellite in, antenna a, or antenna b input? Is there a configuration option I'm missing, or will I have to buy a really long composite cable?

Not familiar with the Dish DVR, but is there a menu option where you select either Ch. 3 or Ch. 4 for the RF output, and then activate it?

I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.

I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.

Do you have Verizon FIOS available to you?

I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.

Supposedly, it's going to be free to lease Feb.1, with commitment.

vinnyv07 is their really a point in upgradinig this type of tv yet? i mean i can deal
with the space issue because i care about quality and i belive the only plasma that share quality they would be the pioneer .......
the only reason why i wanted to upgrade this tv was for
*PC PORT*
*1080P*
*HDMI*
*BIGGER SIZE* (most importanly
The Pc port really doesn't matter to me much....but like you said, 1080p, bigger size and the HDMI input is huge. The fact that it doesn't have more than one component input hurts now. I have my 360 hooked up via component. So if and when I have to upgrade to a Directv HD receiver that is Mpeg 4 capable, I won't have an input to connect it to unless I buy a switcher. We will see.....maybe by the time I have to upgrade, it will be time for a new tv. My next tv will have 2 HDMI inputs plus 2 component inputs. But my 38310 has served me well.....and continues to do so.

FYI, if you are looking for a switcher I'm using a very basic AV switch I picked up at RS for about $10. It does not switch audio, but my receiver does that fine. I just use the Yellow, Red and White inputs to connect to the RGB out on my DVD player and my HD TiVo. No remote, but then I do have to walk over to the DVD player to put the disk in, so no biggie.

BTW, I'm coming up on 5 years with my 38310, power supply went out a few months ago but had it replaced and all is well.

Hello Everyone: I believe my F38310's internal tuner is starting to fail. As of this morning I do not receive several D* channels. Most of which are the HD channels, SD ESPN and ESPN News. It appears the problem starts on channel 13 and goes up to SD ESPN2. Several channels in this range still work, example CNN is out but court channel next channel up works, then after that, ESPN SD is out. My first thought did directv change the programming or sattelite feeds or the triple LNB is becoming obsolete? All other TV's (SD hughes receivers) in the house work on the SD channels that are out on the DM-1 module. According the Directv tech this suggests it is not the dish (tansponders) but the reciever.

If it is the the internal receiver can I buy a STB run it through the component input and still receive all programing? What STB is recommended? I looked at Directv website for available receivers but it appears they don't list them on the webpage anymore. Is there a new combo DVR with component out?

FYI - 47,693 hours on the set. Interesting the log started in 2003, however I had the set since August 2001. I guess the log started when D* service was initiated. I did get an Error code: 0x010000b0. Except for a few chokes early on, this set has performed flawlessly from day 1. BTW all the OTA HD channels still work which makes me wonder if it is the DM-1 module?

Are you sure it's the tuner? I'd try another receiver on the Sat feed and see if perhaps the cable or the switch has gone bad. If that proves not to be the case, by chance are you in an area where D puts your locals on the new SAT?, do you need the new dish to get your locals? if so I'd bet that d would give you a new receiver to allow you to get your locals in HD. It would hurt to ask. Who knows you might be able to talk them into giving you an HD DVR. I would certainly look into it.

Hello Everyone: I believe my F38310's internal tuner is starting to fail. As of this morning I do not receive several D* channels. Most of which are the HD channels, SD ESPN and ESPN News. It appears the problem starts on channel 13 and goes up to SD ESPN2. Several channels in this range still work, example CNN is out but court channel next channel up works, then after that, ESPN SD is out. My first thought did directv change the programming or sattelite feeds or the triple LNB is becoming obsolete? All other TV's (SD hughes receivers) in the house work on the SD channels that are out on the DM-1 module. According the Directv tech this suggests it is not the dish (tansponders) but the reciever.

If it is the the internal receiver can I buy a STB run it through the component input and still receive all programing? What STB is recommended? I looked at Directv website for available receivers but it appears they don't list them on the webpage anymore. Is there a new combo DVR with component out?

FYI - 47,693 hours on the set. Interesting the log started in 2003, however I had the set since August 2001. I guess the log started when D* service was initiated. I did get an Error code: 0x010000b0. Except for a few chokes early on, this set has performed flawlessly from day 1. BTW all the OTA HD channels still work which makes me wonder if it is the DM-1 module?


Try changing the LNB on the dish. I had a similar problem that was resolved with a new replacement. Other than that I ran a HR10-250 HD Tivo from Directv for some time before switching to Verizon FIOS. Works better than the internal tuner and integrates the OTA into the channel list. Also the new MPEG4 receiver is out which requires a whole new dish anyway so you might consider that. Good luck.

You may want to try unplugging the set from the wall for a few minutes and re-perform a channel search.

Thank you all for the input. Ratman I tried unplugging it twice even let it sit overnight but nothing happened. However after dinner today I turned the beast on and all is back to normal.... RCA or Directv gremlins???

I thought Thompson does not support this set anymore? But I have read other recent posts that suggests they still do? Can I still upgrade the diodes and capcitors. What about the new paddle, was Thompson upgrading the paddle for free? Were there ever recalls? Is it worth it at this point to update?

Thank you again.

Thomson supports the set... hey can't get parts! ;)

Caps and diodes on the Dm1 power supply can be easily replaced if/when you experience a failure.

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the paddle upgrade. Yes, it is free. I don't recall the exact version that was the "last available" but, it was something like 5.10.

I tried several times today through Thomson's "great" customer service to obatin info on all the firmware/ paddle updates. I talked to about 8 customer service reps and they all said there were never any updates for the F38310. Meanwhile I was able to backdoor my way into the service center and talk to a genuine service tech who said the update does exist but was not sure how to get it to me or how much it costs to do. All my old contacts at Thompson, John Bubb was one, are gone. Talk about a run around. Well at least the set works and sounds like it is best to just leave it alone.

Thomson supports the set... hey can't get parts! ;)

Caps and diodes on the Dm1 power supply can be easily replaced if/when you experience a failure.

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the paddle upgrade. Yes, it is free. I don't recall the exact version that was the "last available" but, it was something like 5.10.

What is a paddle upgrade?

Here's a FAQ... move down to "Firmware Upgrades" section:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf

Here's a FAQ... move down to "Firmware Upgrades" section:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf

Ah thanks ratman for your quick response. Guess i will have to check out my versions. I dont have directv anymore so im not sure i will benifit too much.

No benefit at all...

OK, my 1st post on this forum.... I own two of the RCA sets and one wont turn on tonite. I used it last nite and everything worked fine, and I have never had a problem with it. Today, the fan is still running but it wont turn on. The remote and the button on the tv turn on the green power lite but thats all I get. I unplugged it while I was out for over an hour and no luck.
Anyone know whats up or know a good repair shop in the Riverside County area?
Obvioulsy I want an inhome repair, that thing is quite heavy. :D

I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.


Will

Known bug on the Sammy. 768p is closer to 640 x 480p.
If you hook up the Sammy via component to a monitor with 1 to 1 pixel mapping
720p looks right , but 768p looks tiny.
The RCA merely upscales it to fit the screen.

I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!

SDO

Sorry to hear about.
Obviously for $650, it's not worth the chance.
Check this part of the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6989161&&#post6989161

I have to move my RCA to another room that's much smaller.
Never had the manual, so does anyone know what the
minimum clearance is in the back of the TV?
I'm worried about heat.
Thanks

I'd keep the TV at least 4 inches between the back of the Tv and the wall.

Here's the manual:
http://support.rca.com/doc/Device_Documents/manuals/F38310_manual.pdf?deviceDocId=153&navtypeid=6&pagetypeid=2&prevPageIndex=3&selectedmodel=F38310&selectedFamily=generic&nvty=m

I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!

SDO

As noted previously I had my powersupply board replaced by Sears last summer. The cost of the board was about $150, and it just popped in. They direct shipped it to me and I was tempted to install it instead of waiting for the service guy, but I thought there might be some adjustments that needed to be made after install, there were none.

Get the part number and start searching for the board, you might be able to do the repair.

BTW, the board they replaced was the one with the bad cap's on it if that is of any help....

I've had my F38310 since 2001. Early last year it went out while I was watching it. No smoke, no fire, just like I hit the off switch. The local repair guys were clueless, so I purchased a repair manual and took a whack at it. It had a shorted diode in the standby power supply. Fired it up two weeks ago and the same beautiful picture came back on. With the integrated Directv and OTA tuners, it is truly a unique set (especially when you have to move it).
I have a similar problem with my set. Where was the location of the bad diode, and can you tell me where to get a service manual?

Thanks for your help!

SDO

This is my first post to the RCA 38310 thread since joining the forum earlier this week. My 38310JX4 has continued to deliver a great HD picture since I purchased it in March of 2001, displaying no capacitor/diode problems to this moment. But I've never been a believer in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." adage.

In an effort to help the recent contributors to this thread who are experiencing power supply problems, searching for parts(capacitors/diodes) or getting $650 repair estimates for power supply repair/replacement, here's what I did to try to avoid the same problem for two of three more years. Yesterday (3/27) I ordered a complete power supply board from Sears Parts. Their price was $80.90 plus about $20 for shipping and handling via UPS Ground for a total price of $102. The board is due to arrive by or before April 9. I'm assuming that the board will contain upgraded capacitors and diodes. Even if that's not the case, I'll have the option of installing it anyway or returning it for a refund within 30 days.

Having reviewed this thread for well over a year, I'm convinced that my approach is the best way to prevent or repair the power supply problem. As MattL, in an earlier post, observed: the power supply board is a relatively simple snap-in module. I confirmed that by pulling the back of my set early this week. A quick examination revealed a couple of diodes with warped and sagging cases and capacitors that didn't match the light blue/gold color configurations of the upgraded ones. The board on my set contains two gray capacitors with maroon and gold bands and a third capacitor right in the middle of the board with a sky blue case and yellow/silver bands. I wouldn't have a clue as to which capacitors, if any of them, should be replaced or if I could solder them properly. Purchasing the complete board takes the guesswork out of the equation.

What's everyone else think? I would welcome feedback from the venerable DrJoe or Ratman if they still monitor this thread. What I'm trying to do is keep the superior picture of this RCA around for two or three more years until 1080P plasmas or the legally-encumbered SED technology present a better picture (and affordable price) than I'm currently enjoying with my 38310.

As soon as the board arrives from Sears, by the way, I'll post the Sears part number and any significant developments during the installation process to this thread.

My set, incidentally, shows 52,000 plus on the odometer. I estimate a total of about 11,000 hours of actual use since I fired it up exactly six years ago this month. Major inputs are a Comcast (Motorola 3416) HD DVR and an LG LDA-511
DVD player modified(hacked) to produce upscaled 1080I through the component output.

Please do keep us informed and especially the part number of the board. Thanks for posting.

Thanks for the input. IMO... a $100 is well worth the peace of mind to have an easily replaced DM1 power supply board on hand.

But I do have to note:
1) The color of the caps that you've described on you F38310 do not seem to be "original".
The caps that fail on the DM1 PS board have a "brown" case. Perhaps your set already have upgraded caps installed before you purchased it. That could possibly explain why your set has not experienced the "problem" after all this time. It shouldn't have lasted this long.
2) You didn't state whether you use the TV's internal tuner. If you don't or never did, perhaps that's a reason. OTOH, hook up your cable or an antenna to check. You may find it's already dead! ;)
3) And lastly... if you never intend to use the TV's internal tuner, then you may want to consider returning the part for a refund since a DM-1 PS failure only affects the internal tuner and not any video inputs. So, you can still use the component and other inputs.

So, based on my assumptions, the PS you have as a "spare" is the PS board for the DM-1 module. It is not a PS board for the main chassis (DTV306), which would present itself as a "complete" failure to the set.

JS: I'll definitely post the part number shortly after I receive the board, along with the Sears 800 number used to start the order.

Ratman: a belated thanks for all of the valuable insights and information you've generated on the 38310 over the months and years. You've got me going on your response to my part descriptions. let's see if you can confirm that: 1. the power supply module that usually contains the underated caps and diodes is the DM-1 power supply module. That's the one I described and ordered from Sears. 2. As you face the rear of the set with the back cover removed, the power supply module I ordered is situated just to the left of the DM-1 tuner module. It's the tall aluminum box on the left (still facing the set from the rear). Right on both counts?
Or, heaven forbid, wrong?

Yes, I've used the internal tuners sparingly over the years. Tuner A, which I have connected to an indoor amplified Terk HD antenna, produces the strongest signals and best HD I get. Used it for a couple of hours just last Sunday. Tuner B has a straight Comcast cable feed connected (No cable box connection) that generates all of the basic Comcast SD channels. I used it less that two weeks ago for 1/2 hour or so while my DVR was recording two programs. HD problem. Haven't used the Direct VT tuner for over four years. It just sort of sits there taking up space.

Here's the twenty (or in my case $102) dollar question: Is the module I've just described and ordered the one that solves the bad caps/diodes issue?

I probably won't post again until after I receive and install the module.

Yes that's correct. A "smallish" board about 5 sq. inches. And... just to clarify. The diodes are not underrated. Only the caps. The issue is a cascading effect that when the caps DO fail, that causes the diodes to crap out.

Yes, it sound's as if you have the right board.

But I have ask...

You stated, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." So, why are you installing the new board?
If the set works, leave it be! Keep the board if/when you need it.

As I stated, I think you already have the upgraded caps. So, why mess around? IMO... either keep the board as a "spare" or return it for a refund. But I personally wouldn't be inside a TV that's working properly. Just my $.02 ;)

Hey RCA Don..
How did you order the power supply without the part number?

Thanks

Drastic

two days after I ordered it from Sears, UPS left the module at my side door sometime this morning(Friday Mar. 30) Nice work Sears and UPS!

J Wheeler and anyone else interested in the part number and related information:

RCA Part Number: 46-356712-3

Sears Parts/Service tele.# 1-800-469-4663

Cost: $80.90 plus UPS ground shipping. Total: $102

Hey Drastic: I called, specified parts order, gave the first rep I talked to the model number of my TV and described the module; he bounced me to a lady at a help desk with access to diagrams (probably schematics) who identified the power supply "card" and completed the order. Everything in life should be that simple.

Senor Ratman: the new module is identical in every way to the one curently in place in my TV, right down to the grey capacitors I described. But it's not about 5" square as you estimated in an earlier post. The board is 12" long x 3-1/2" wide. I suspect your estimated dimensions refer to the rear portion of the board, separted from the front portion by a z-shaped steel partition. The back section contains, among other components, two black-case diodes and a squat rubber cylinder that I guess is a diode as well. The two grey capacitors in that back section have gold, maroon and silver bands. Both are exactly 1/2" long, have leads bent at right angles to the case and pressed into the board, placing the capacitors about 1/2" above the surface of the board. My single key question to you: Does that agree with the physical size and positioning of the underrated caps?
I'm just trying to make certain that I've been staring at the right capacitors. Way up at the other end of this 12" board, there are two smaller brown capacitors (3/8" long) pressed right into the surface of the board and adjacent to a glass fuse. I hope those aren't the problem caps.

Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. Other than a little bit of dust, the caps, diodes and fuses et al on my old board seem to be in the same pristine condition as those on the brand new board. Unless I hear from someone that a future failure in the power supply card could take out the DM1 tuner module to which it's attached. I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.

In any event, I hope the part number and ordering information at the beginning of this post helps anybody and everybody who's actually trying to revive their 38310.

Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. ,,,,,,,

I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.


So, as I stated, your DM1 board has already been uprgraded.

My 38310 is DOA - no fans, no lights, nothing. It sounds like I need to check the main power supply board (DTV306), according to Ratman. Is there a service bulletin or manual that I could get my hands on to help troubleshoot the problem? Is it possible that replacing the infamous caps and diodes would get this set back in service? Any direction anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!

SDO:
Have to make this quick since I have to start work at the local library at noon. Check my posts about the board I bought from Sears as well as Ratman's knowledgable responses to them. The back of that board is the DM1 power supply. I was just into determining what function the front section of that board served. It just might be main power supply module.
There's a glass fuse in the top left hand corner of the board as you look down on it from the rear of the set.If yours is blown, It could be the problem. Taking a look could help and it sure won't hurt unless you stick you hand in the back of the set with the power cord still attached. I'm gone. Good luck.

My suspicions about the front of the power supply board were wrong. The front is AC input for the tuner module; the back is DC output to the tuner module. I just ordered (4/2) the service manual for the 38310. It's about forty bucks including shipping for the CD version(that's what I ordered); the printed version is about $60. You can order either one at: thomsonnetwork(dot)com (It's a Thomson servicing dealer website but I had on trouble ordering and confirming the CD. Good luck. Post an update when you get a chance. I had to the web address in irrregular form because of AVS Forum restrictions.

I recently added a DirecTV HR20 to my F38310. It's workable, but not perfect. If I use the DirecTV & TV Power ON button, both devices do in fact come on but the TV reacts as if I sent it the TV power on and switches to Channel 0 ( I have not ATSC presets ). I then have to hit the Input button 5 times to get it to switch to Component Input.

If I assign an RCA DVD code to AV1 and use the AV1 power button, It'll turn on in Component Video mode ( the input I have assigned to the DVD device ).

Anyone know how to configure the remote in a better way?

Ever since I moved last week my F38310 is behaving a little worse then it was before. A small horizontal darkened bar scrolls vertically from the bottom of the screen to the top. It takes about 10-20 seconds to get to the top and start over. It looks a little bit like when you film a TV and play it back.

Any ideas on what to look for to try to resolve this minor annoying issue? It's very subtle, but noticable.

I've been living with the vertical scrolling line for over 3 years now. My beast has survived several moves up and down the east coast. So, I guess I'm trying to say, the line is annoying, but in my case at least, it hasn't progressed or led to other problems. (knock on wood!)

sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.

Thanks for the info, RCA don! I will definitely follow up using the data you have provided, and will let you know how things go. Again, thanks for your help and advice!

SDO

sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.

Thanks for putting a name on the problem. I'm off to searching now.... The first question I have is has something gone wrong with my TV or is it just how I have it set up.

For example if I moved the TV back to my old house ( not possible; just curious ) and hooked everything up the way it was, would the problem go away, or would it stay because something has broken ( changed ) inside the TV itself...

My first google hits makes me think it's the former and not the latter. But I'm not sure because I know when the XBOX and HR20-100 is OFF ( but not unplugged ) I still see the problem. I'll try unplugging everything but power and see if it goes away.

I wonder if the high voltage, high tower electrical transmittion lines a half a block away from my house could be inducing the 60hz noise..... My Panasonic CT-26WX15 in the bedroom doesn't seem to have the problem and it's a tube TV also...

I unplugged and removed every component except for the AC power cable from the wall ( removed the surge supresser also ) to the RCA F38310. The visual effect remains; I can see it when the on screen menu in 4:3 with grey bars.


Does this still sound like a ground loop? If so, do I need to consider some kind of power filter/isolater? Or does this sound like some other problem with my RCA?

I'll keep googling, but if I need some kind of isolator, I'm not sure what I need to buy. I really don't feel like walking into Best Buy not knowing what I need and get some guy to try to sell me on some stupid monster power conditioner or something that is really expenseive.

Get a heavy duty extention cord and try different power outlet (on a different circuit).

Also... you have "everything" disconneted from the TV right? No external hardware, no connection from cable...

Yes sir! I stripped it down to the absolute min connection... the power cord directly from the wall to the back of the TV. Not only did I unplug all connections but I removed all of the components from the general area to make sure nothing was acting as an antenna or inducing magnetic interference ( like speakers ).

I used an extension cord to try plugging it into the outlet that my other TV is plugged into also. Despite the fact that the TV plugged into that outlet looks fine, it only seemed to make the problem on the RCA even worse. I'm guessing a longer cable and/or a lesser shielded extension cord just picks up more interference? As for moving the TV around the house to try different outlets while only using the shorter cord.... well, it IS an F38310........ :(

My best guess is the transmission lines ( the big tall ones with that rusted look to them ... about 100' away ) is putting off so much RF that my old F38310 just can't handle it.

I'm listening to all suggestions boss.

Try an RF choke (ferrite) on the power cord.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222&cp

Thanks, will do tonight. I'm not sure why this didn't occur to me. I used to do electronics stuff decards ago.... I guess I've gone soft and have gotten used to just buying components to get the job done instead of coming up with a solution myself.

If the interference goes away after I put the choke on the line ( I'm guessing closer to the TV then the power outlet ... I'll play with it ), I wonder if I'm going to need chokes on any of my other power lines and low voltage path ways.

Well, I managed to pick up a choke during lunch. However when it rains, it pours. I get a call from my wife saying the HR20-100 isn't working. She power cycles the device and the 720P light just comes on. The box is completly unresponsive to her.

More googling to do...

I tried the ferrite choke that I picked up at Frys last night and it didn't really make any difference. I tested the effects of the choke with everything unplugged except for the power cord.

Still, I did watch TV last night and I wasn't bothered by the effect. If I look for it, I can see it though.

I could try moving, rotating the TV to see if I can minimize the effects, but there is really nowhere else downstairs that I could put the TV and I really don't want to carry it upstairs to try it.

I'm wondering if the effect is really magnetic in nature and not RF? Short of creating a makeshift faraday cage, I'm not sure what else I can try.

Any suggestions? Or is it time to live with it or Craigslist it?

With all due respect to ratman (he is the real deal!!) I doubt the ghosting line is so easily solved. Like I mentioned, my beast has been up and down the east coast, and the line's been there for years. It is subtle, but not so much if you know it's there. OTOH, with all the known probs of this set, it is something I can live with.

Well... I don't know what to suggest. I have two F38310's and neither have the "symptom(s)". I took a shot... ;)

I can only provide my thoughts based on the problem description, which sounds like a "hum bar"/ground loop (slowly scrolling horizontal line that moves up the screen).

Last shot.... cut all circuit breakers in the home (at the panel) except the circuit to the TV. Also, be sure to "unplug" every other electrical device on that particular circuit that you leave "hot".

I appreciate your insite Ratman. I understand the subtle complexity involved here. I'll see if I can give your final suggestion a try.

Your description really sounds like what I'm seeing, that's for sure.

Until then I put the TV ( with matching stand ) on Craiglist for $400. No bites yet....

I have had mine for 4 1/2 years now and it has never skipped a beat.

I searched all 20 pages of this thread but didn't see anything like this:
occasional chirping sounds coming from back of set?
It sounds like a bunch of crickets have made a home in my tv!
I've had great luck with this monster so far. It was a floor model, no repairs...
Just 2 (now 3) minor issues: scrolling vertical "ghost" line (present in 4 locations in 3 states!), sort of annoying high pitched squeal (intermittent, usually on very bright screen images), and now this. Any thoughts?

Chirps: perhaps one of the fans? Check for dust buildup and clean/vacuum if possible.
Sqeal: Could be the flyback. Turn down "contast/picture" and see it it helps.
Scolling line: Normally caused by a ground loop.

Now that I moved the TV, it's a much better experience, but the fans are way too loud.
If i remember correctly there are two 80 mm fans that are easily accessible. But there is another(s?) thats always on, thats possibly inside the receiver itself. Anyone ever change them out?
Thanks

The two fans can probably be easily changed out/replaced, but the third is in the DM-1 module (Actually a DTC100 receiver) and AFAIK, cannot be easily replaced. OR... if it can, it would probably require a major operation by removing the DM1 and opening it up, which may cause more problems than it's worth.

Best bet is to remove the back cover and check for dust/dirt buildup on the fan blades and enclosure (causing them to become off balance or extra weight). A gentle vacuuming may help quiet them down.

Thanks Ratman,
It seems like the receiver fan(s) is the loud one. Any schematics available to cut the power to the unit?
Ideally since I rarely used the ATSC tuner (let alone the D*), I'd like to incorporate a simple switch to turn it off.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

A couple of months ago I posted about a problem that Ratman tried very hard to help me with. Well, I'd kinda just grown to accept the problem and then finally decided that I wanted a bigger 50" TV. To make a long story short, we moved the TV upstairs to the gameroom and bingo, problem gone.

I don't know what it was exactly but it's gone!!

Now to figure out which TV will be next for me. I thought I'd go DLP but I don't like the dark images outside of the direct viewing area. Never thought I would say this... but I think I'm looking for a 50" plasma. I'd consider LCD if I could be sure that black would really be black with no back glow.

So my buget is not unlimited.... Maybe up to $1800 or so. What has other owners of F38310's upgraded to? I really like the PQ on my RCA and I don't want my PQ to step down from what I currently have. Do you think I'd be happy with a 720P LCD/DLP from say 10' viewing distance or do I need to wait for 1080P prices to come down?

I've been seeing 1080P LCD's in the 47", 720P plasma in the 50" and a Hitachi 50" plasma that's 1280x1024 that I can afford. I see mixed opinions on the Hitachi but I'm wondering since the RCA effectively had a resolution of 1280x1024, would that be good choice or should I just save money and go 720p?

A couple of months ago I posted about a problem that Ratman tried very hard to help me with. Well, I'd kinda just grown to accept the problem and then finally decided that I wanted a bigger 50" TV. To make a long story short, we moved the TV upstairs to the gameroom and bingo, problem gone.

I don't know what it was exactly but it's gone!!

Now to figure out which TV will be next for me. I thought I'd go DLP but I don't like the dark images outside of the direct viewing area. Never thought I would say this... but I think I'm looking for a 50" plasma. I'd consider LCD if I could be sure that black would really be black with no back glow.

So my buget is not unlimited.... Maybe up to $1800 or so. What has other owners of F38310's upgraded to? I really like the PQ on my RCA and I don't want my PQ to step down from what I currently have. Do you think I'd be happy with a 720P LCD/DLP from say 10' viewing distance or do I need to wait for 1080P prices to come down?

I've been seeing 1080P LCD's in the 47", 720P plasma in the 50" and a Hitachi 50" plasma that's 1280x1024 that I can afford. I see mixed opinions on the Hitachi but I'm wondering since the RCA effectively had a resolution of 1280x1024, would that be good choice or should I just save money and go 720p?

Forget lcd is no where near in PQ and has too many flaws and will take time to inprove, on top of that its too much money!!!

i say most tvs currently on cosumer level cost will drop in PQ compared to the f38310 and no tv can match in terms of PQ to crt HOWEVER

the new pioneer pdp-5080 are said to be very close to crt blacks and those 8th gen pio's seem to be the best currently avaiable, that is my next tv after the f38310. its only 720p but 1080p less then 3 months away with say $1500 more
Now if your sitting about 10 ft you wont benefit from 1080p as you need to get between 6ft to 8 ft i belive. on top of that think about it what supports 1080p? only bd/hd disc and ps3/360 not even satelite/cable is 1080p (only 1080i)

if you really want Picture quality as close as our f38310 then get that pioneer pdp- 5080 (not 5070) huge difffrense.... it retails for $3500 but check our forum sponsers they have it for less then $2500 I'D say get it from invision display (forum sponser) hope this helps and if any more Q's go ahead ask

Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.

The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.

I have to tell you I saw a 50" Samsung plasma at a friends house that I thought looked outstanding compared to my F38310. It may just be that it was bigger but I thought there was more detail. I will say that I am not a fan of the looks of this set especially the blue light in the front but the picture looked great. I see it advertised on dealnews for around $1500.00.


Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.

The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.

Man, I have really been trying to figure out a flaw on my F38310 (which I just got used about a week ago). The image with DVDs (which is really all I plan on using it for) is fine EXCEPT for what look like horizontal lines running throughout the image. Stationary lines...about a 100 of them which are more or less noticeable depending on brightness of original image (hard to see in dark scenes, easy in well-lit scenes). I'm using an LG upconverting-over-component dvd player. What would ya'll suggest? Different player? Different input? SVideo? Any and all comments appreciated!

I would try a different player just to see if you have the scan lines still. Than you will at least find out if it's the TV or the DVD player.

Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.

The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.

Trust me bro i too was sketical about the price but when i saw the tv i was blown away!!!! its worth every single penny spend $500 more then your 2gs range and you wont regreat it compare to if you spend $500 less you WILL i guarnteed it\

i didnt get a chance to take good pics but scratch on what i said about the blacks being as close as crt, THEY are superior !!! go to bestbuy its worth the visit :D
oh and look at it this way 720p is native for most content and thats the best you can get, on top of that if you are sitting further then 6-8ft then you wont benefit from 1080p and theirs hardly if any support for native 1080p (ps3/x360 hd/bd disc)

here are some pictures from plasma concept

Pioneer 5080HD-1 (http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/images/PIO-5080HD-1.JPG)

Pioneer 5080HD-3 (http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/images/PIO-5080HD-3.JPG)

Pioneer 5080HD-2 (http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/images/PIO-5080HD-2.JPG)
anyone want my F38310? :D

Hello All: Just received word from my wife that our F38310 fried. She turned it on and it made the classic chirpping noises and went dead, and apparently something burned because she can smell smoke. Interesting the chirpping would not stop until she unplugged it. Has played fine 6 years until now. I know I'm shooting in the dark by asking but ... as anyone experienced this issue and if so what might the issue be? I have a service guy who knows these sets pretty well he stated however the parts may or may not be available. Is it worth spending the $100 for a diagnostic?

thank you

CJ

Odds are it's the power supply. When mine went out I couldn't turn the set off so I pulled the plug, After that it would not power up. The power module is/was available for about $100. Sears did my repair, but all that was involved was swapping out the module. No adjustments needed. I'd opt for a new power module over paying the service guy, about the same cost. If that doesn't fix it odds are it will be something much more expensive and not worth fixing. I've read, perhaps here that the tuner module, if available, ran over $6oo.

Good luck and post your decision, I'm curious. I like my set a lot though I'm hungry for a much larger display, and hope to move the 38310 to my bedroom.

Thank you Matt: Well the verdict is in ....... the tech said the power block failed and is arcing. What is a power block? He said it is on the right hand side I should have asked right hand side from the front or the back! He actually bought with him a spare power board I assume for the DM-1 module, I was surprised he had one. So at this point the infamous capacitor failure is not the problem. The part is available but about $400 to do the job. He is not sure if anything else is wrong he can not tell w/o fixing this problem first. This may be the end. Anyone need an F38310 for parts? Any suggestions? I checked out the new Sony, Toshiba and Samsung 1080p LCD's they play pretty good but not like the CRT.

Signalseeker and Matt:

Wierd timing: Mine went out last night. Turned itself off, and then cycled on and off, by the sound of it, until I unplugged it. When I plugged it back in, same cycling until I just pulled the plug and gave up on it. I'd love to fix it, if anyone has a source for parts. I'll be sorry to see it go if I can't do the repair or part replacement. - Pat

Info you may need is from RCA don in post #555.

Thank you Matt: Well the verdict is in ....... the tech said the power block failed and is arcing. What is a power block? He said it is on the right hand side I should have asked right hand side from the front or the back! He actually bought with him a spare power board I assume for the DM-1 module, I was surprised he had one. So at this point the infamous capacitor failure is not the problem. The part is available but about $400 to do the job. He is not sure if anything else is wrong he can not tell w/o fixing this problem first. This may be the end. Anyone need an F38310 for parts? Any suggestions? I checked out the new Sony, Toshiba and Samsung 1080p LCD's they play pretty good but not like the CRT.


dont want to sound like a prick but is everyone ignoring my post???? signalseeker look up my post where theirs pictures, that is far the best plasma or for the matter of any consumer priced tv is probly the best one!!!! this goes for everyone on this thread this plasma seemed to be at our F38310 if not better and 1080p model coming in less then 2 months

Info you may need is from RCA don in post #555.


Hi Matt -

I googled that part number and no dice. Also checked for it or other 38310 parts on the Sears site, and they appear to have only the owner's manual and remote. Also checked MCM Electronics, who are an RCA parts purveyor, and no dice. I'm thinking maybe these parts are no longer available from stock.

I'll continue checking for sources, but I suppose the most important thing is to push the beast out away from the wall and get the back off of it. Then I can search for blown parts and maybe do a board-level repair rather than replacement.

Thanks - Pat

PS - I found a good site (PartsStore.com) and they had about 900 parts listed for these TVs. I've kind of concluded that "46-356712-3" is a Sears inventory number, and not an RCA part number. PartsStore had a number of parts listed with the single word description: "Circuit" (not ICs) and I wasn't able to get any other information on them without a service manual.

tubesguy and everyone else am i a ghost lol ? atlest you guys are aware of my post?

http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/images/PIO-5080HD-1.JPG

dont want to sound like a prick but is everyone ignoring my post????

gus728.... neither do I. But! This is a thread for the F38310. :confused:

i know it is and it consider off topic but if you read earlier post theirs 2 guys that indicated that what tv should buy since the f38310 died and the other also had a simlir issue, but they didnt aknowledge that and thats why i wanted to state it!

Gus I've been busy and this is the first chance I had to read the threads. Thank you for the info.

Ratman, Tubesguy and MattL: I Texted Dr. Joe on HDTVoice.com he said he has no idea what might be wrong and said he gave up on the big beast a while back ago. He mentioned it probably ain't worth fixing. Ratman he said you might have an idea or an opinion on whether or not it's worth fixing.

Tubesguy thanx for the link I will check that site out for a "power block".

Take Care.

CJ

NO offense intended to Dr. Joe in any way, shape or form! He has been super with help everyone and very much to me over the years.

His points are well taken, but I need to say that he has been run through the grinder with the inherent problems with the F38310. With that, I can agree and disagree with no bias.

The bottom line is (that when it works) it's a wonderful TV. I've had mine since 01/2002 and can't be happier. I also was fortunate enough to purchase a used one locally from a forum member at HDTVoice.com for my son, which looks great.

So I guess what I'm saying is... how much is it worth it to you and how reliable is your RCA tech? IMO... if you're willing to take a $400 chance, go for it.

It's a tough call...

signalseeker: I don't know where you stand on the repair status of your 38310 but..I took a good look through my service manual(on CD) and didn't find one mention of a "power block."
Here's a semi-educated guess: the tech is actually referring to the deflection power supply.
It's a square board mounted on the right side of the chassis as you face it from the rear. The deflection power supply contains a high voltage diode (CR14710) that the manual also identifies as a safety critical part. Dr. Joe or Joe Floyd, two early contributors to this thread, both encountered problems with this diode and one of them cited that "It goes up in flames when it fails." That could be what your service tech describes as "arcing." If your problem is, in fact, confinded to that single diode and the tech agrees, it just might drive the repair estimate downward. (one can only hope, right?)
in any event, hope you can restore operation of this great set at an affordable price. Happy to report that mine is problem-free after about 6-1/2 years and about 9,000 hours of in-use time. Have yet to set my eyes on a plasma or anything else that matches it for overall picture quality (excluding the smaller but better Sony 960/970).

Let me know if the above diode turns out to to be the culprit and, if so, how many hours(a-proximately) it took to make the thing self-destruct. Hell, gotta have something to worry about while I try to squeeze another two-to-three years of great HD performance out of mine.

Gus I've been busy and this is the first chance I had to read the threads. Thank you for the info.


lol i know signalseeker i meant for matt and tubes guy though, rca don i say yep crt tube is great quality if not the best currently avaiable and good luck so your rca doesnt die but i saw the pioneer PDP-5080 a 50'' 720p model and it looked amazing blacks were very very deep i'd say about more "pure" and "deeper" then our crts , and this is putting our crt at the preset settings that turns dark

Hi Matt -

I googled that part number and no dice. Also checked for it or other 38310 parts on the Sears site, and they appear to have only the owner's manual and remote. Also checked MCM Electronics, who are an RCA parts purveyor, and no dice. I'm thinking maybe these parts are no longer available from stock.

I'll continue checking for sources, but I suppose the most important thing is to push the beast out away from the wall and get the back off of it. Then I can search for blown parts and maybe do a board-level repair rather than replacement.

Thanks - Pat

PS - I found a good site (PartsStore.com) and they had about 900 parts listed for these TVs. I've kind of concluded that "46-356712-3" is a Sears inventory number, and not an RCA part number. PartsStore had a number of parts listed with the single word description: "Circuit" (not ICs) and I wasn't able to get any other information on them without a service manual.

Did you call Sears?

I vaguely recall talk of a service manual floating around the internet at some point, maybe someone can track it down, or - I might be wrong...

BTW, has anyone tried:

http://www.samswebsite.com/photofact/pf_search.asp

I didn't want to crawl around and find all the numbers, but RCA F38310 did not show any hits. Maybe it's listed by the other model name/number.


Ok, I guess I'll just keep adding on to this. I found the part number for the power supply from Sears. On my receipt is:

57 528 46-356712-3 01

Hope some of this helps....

Signalseeker: Matt L is right. You have to call Sears Parts& Service to determine if 38310 circuit boards or individual diodes, capacitors, etc. are available. The Sears website isn't the place to get detailed parts information. From this thread and other on the forum, I also get the impression that Sears service delivers uniformly good and reasonably priced results. I believe that I know the derivation of your service tech's "power block" description as well. In addition to schematics, service manuals contain block diagrams of the TV's components. So a power supply board in a block diagram becomes a "power block."

The deflection power supply board, by the way, is a nearly-square component where the DM-1 power supply module is a long rectangle (approx. 10"x4"). No capable service tech would ever confuse one for the other You might also benefit from posts #182 and 187 way, way back(page 7) in this thread. In them, Dr. Joe and Joe Floyd both describe their problem with the high voltage diode(CR14710) in the deflection power supply. The symptoms they identify appear similiar to yours.

A message for Gus while I'm editing this post: Hey Gus: I agree with your assessment of the Pioneer plasmas. I'd personally put Panasonic in the running as a very close second.
But there's another set that also produces incredibly deep blacks, provides dual ATSC tuners and more. Let's see, I think it's called the RCA 38310. If you're bound and determined to part with $3,000 or so to travel to plasmaland, more power to you. Doesn't the idea of earmarking $3-400 for possible repairs and enjoying the great HD set you already have for a few more years have nearly equal appeal? Think where plasma might be in terms of quality and afordability by that time. How about it, GUS?

Hi RCA don-

It sounds as if you have the manual, and have done some research in it. Does the manual specify what type of diode that is, and its current and voltage ratings? If I find that CR14710 is the problem, I may just be able to order a replacement diode from Digikey or some similar source, given an indication of the specs. Thanks for the posts on this - Pat

Hi RCA don-

It sounds as if you have the manual, and have done some research in it. Does the manual specify what type of diode that is, and its current and voltage ratings? If I find that CR14710 is the problem, I may just be able to order a replacement diode from Digikey or some similar source, given an indication of the specs. Thanks for the posts on this - Pat

Yep, I do have the manual on CD. It lists the high voltage diode simply as: diode, stock number: 243846, position: CR14710 on Deflection-P/S. That's the deflection power supply board. An insert at the top of the list reads: "Warning! This is a Safety Critical Part." The diode is soldered right to the board. I'd strongly suggest you call Sears parts first to determine availability and price of both the diode and the entire board (the board stock # appears to be 1553100B). Reason: the diode failure could possibly have a cascade effect on other components of the power supply board. I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.

I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.

Trust me, schematic diagrams make a lot more sense. ;)

Appreciate the help. I found the diode on the PartsStore site, but not the board. They list what I'd guess are many, if not all, of the parts for these things, but all of the parts numbers are six-digit numbers. I'll try to get the back off of the TV and look early next week. Goin' fishin' this weekend.

Well, I have had my TV over 5 years now and have loved it from the start. About a week ago I noticed a buzzing sound from the back of the TV and thought that it was about to go. Sure enough, today I had some troubles. The TV picture was on and destorted but no one turned power on. I tried to turn it off with the remote and power button on top but nothing. I unplugged it and then couldn't get the tv to turn on. I unplugged, and replugged with no luck. When it is plugged in there is a buzzing sound coming from the back of the TV. No green power light, no picture, nothing, just the buzzing. After taking the back cover off the TV I narrowed the buzzing sound to the circuit board on the L/H side of the TV when facing the back of the TV. The board is just left of the box with the coax antenna hook-ups. It has 2 wires, white and black going to it so I think it is a power supply board but i am unsure. Any thoughts as to what might be the fix? I have read almost all the other posts in here and when the TV went out on someone else, they had the power light and no picture. I don't have the power light so I think this is different from some of the others, but open to any thoughts at all. I have had nothing done to the TV since I bought it in Feb 2002. I am good with electronics and can change out soldered parts but wouldn't mind just changing the board cause I am not sure where specificly the sound is from or even if I am in the right area for the problem Any help would be great...

Steve,
Las Vegas, NV

There's only one circuit board in the position you describe. It's the much-written-about DM-1 power supply module. See my post #555 in this thread for ordering information through Sears parts. The buzzing you hear could be emanating from the transformer situated near the middle of the board. It's a snap-out;snap-in part replacement with no soldering required. Just make certain to place the three ribbon cable connectors connecting the module to the DM-1 tuner back in their correct positions on the new board. For about $100 including shipping, it could be a quick, comparatively low cost solution to your problem. If not, you're only out $100 and you can start shopping Pioneer plasmas with Gus.

Thanks for the info. This transformer, I am sure it is the white cylinder type part with a black square around it. Located about in the middle of the board and labled T14100. It isn't snap in from what I can tell, thats why I am making sure we are talking the right part. Is it possible to get a part number for this piece and I can just solder in a new one. I don't have the service manuals so I am unsure of the ordering part nnumber. And if it doesn't work out, don't think I would go the plasma route. I like the Sony 55 SXRD. Thanks again

Steve
Las Vegas NV

Remember: identifying the transformer as the source of a buzzing sound is nothing more than a guess on my part. Even if my guess is right, one or more failed components on the power board are causing the transformer to hum or buzz. Play it safe and thorough, replace the entire power supply board. Remember: that buzzing sound is just one of the problems you're experiencing. The thing won't turn off! A malfunctioning transformer is almost certainly not the sole cause of that condition. If you insist, I can as least extract the position
number(CRXXXXX) for the transformer from my service manual and maybe the part number as well. Let me know. But I still encourage you to replace the entire board.

The part you described and the position number(T14100) confirm that it's the transformer. Thomson(RCA) part # is 15312120. The manual also lists a Stock # 249012. Careful: both the DM-1 and deflection power supplies show a transformer with the same symbol(T14110) but different stock numbers.I'd still go with an entire DM-1 power supply replacement but it's your TV, your money and your call.

hi all,

new to the forum. i purchased my F38310 in 2001 as a refurb unit. have had zero problems with it and absolutely love the thing.

thinking about getting rid of it for a few reasons, possibly to replace with a larger, LCD set (was looking at some of the 1080p Samsungs).

is there any market for my F38310 used? god knows i would never attempt to ship the beast, but as i live in Los Angeles i wondered if this set would be worth trying to sell locally? any ideas on what i could get for it?

thanks in advance for all replies, advice, etc!

-d

IMO... try to sell it locally for $300-$400 (if you're lucky).

For the same reason(s) you want to upgrade, most individuals don't want a bulky 216 lb. TV (not matter the picture quality). ;)

All sorry for being remiss in my response. Don thanx for the detailed info on the part #. I have the TV sitting in my garage and will pull the cover off tonight and take a look and see if anything in that lower right hand area looks burnt. I will check with sears to see if the part is available. I have in the mean time, sorry to admit in this forum, purchased the Toshiba 42HL167.... will you still allow me to post here? It plays good and I can hang it on the wall.

Thanks everyone.

Whadusay, Ratman? Should we let signalseeker post here for thirty days or so just to pick his brain about his impressions of his new Toshiba? Signalseeker: good to hear that you haven't given up on your FA38310, not completely anyway. I did happen upon a description of a power supply problem with symptoms identical to yours (Go to the plasma flat panel display section of this forum, find the Vizio 42 thread and search that thread for "power supply problems" Those sets have come to be known as "poppers" because the capacitors on the power supply board fail, sometimes with an audible "pop". The failure is also accompanied by a humming (sound familiar?) or buzzing sound. The conclusion? The capacitors on your DM-1 power supply board have failed and cause the transformer to buzz for awhile. Want a great spare HDTV? Replace your RCA's power supply board. Please do fill us in on a comparison of your new Toshiba with your F38310's performance before it died. At work. Gotta go.

Nah... keep Toshiba talk in a Toshiba thread. Keep F38310 talk in this thread.

By all means though, keep us updated as to what you do or find out about the F38310 and it's disposition.

Hey

I owned this TV since 2002. Floor model at CC ($1200 plus $100 for matching stand). Bought extended warranty which ends in 11/07. Only one repair, diode replaced (did i spell this right).

I used to use the built in receiver but upgraded to HR10-250. I love the HD. Standard looks great too except for non-HD baseball/football games. The standard games look blurry compared to the HD games on the baseball and football tickets.

I am hoping this set last for a long time. The longer this set lasts the better/cheaper my next set will be.

But I have recently thought about moving this set out of the livingroom and into a den. Those new 52" LCD's got me thinking? Has anyone else moved this TV into another room to get a plasma or lcd?



still love the set

sounds like me-- got the same deal at cc on a floor model- but my dilemma has been whether to keep going on the warranty. i'm up this october. i got the set in 02 also.
pix is outstanding -

I received the letter from CC about extending the warranty. $164 for one year? I extended 2 years ago for 260 (have not needed any repairs). I considered it a safety net. Now, is it worth 164 for an additional year?

It would guarantee that for $164 we would temporarily hold off buying a new LCD/Plasma until late 2008. The money spent now should pay off as the TV should be better, bigger, cheaper in 2008.

We have several months to decide. Let me know if you extend it.

I decided not to extend. I'll take my chances and see how long it will last. I have several older crt tv's that all well over 10 years old.

Hey, I have the PS38000 for 5+ years now. I bought it when it came out, and it has been running strong everyday. Now it’s mainly used for the x360. I was thinking about getting it recalibrated, what settings is everyone running? How did you guys calibrate the D*TV since its built in.

I picked up a HR10-250 HD DVR receiver from DTV.I hooked it up to the component inputs. The TV is 10 times better now with a HD DVR.

I picked up a HR10-250 HD DVR receiver from DTV.I hooked it up to the component inputs. The TV is 10 times better now with a HD DVR.I couldn't agree more. This will be true of any HDTV, and the HR20 w/5LNB dish will do even better when the new HD channels come out in the fall.

A lot of your comments got me thinking. I've looked at a lot of LCD and Plasma displays in the last week or two ( shopping for someone else...) and they all look sharper and crisper then my f38310. Many comments here indicate the great picture quality of the RCA, I'm wondering if it's time for a service call.

I bought a 1 year service contract last year when my power supply went out, got about a month left on it. Just afraid they might mess it up if they went to tweak it.

what settings are you running?

I did the setup using AVIA, that's all I have available. The bulk of what I watch is OTA so it should be pretty good (except for the ones running sub channels...)

I recorded the old HDNET test pattern a year or two ago and I can't see the higher end detail, not sure if it's Directv's problem or mine...

When I watch fox sports the ticker on the bottom of the screen is cut off by the bottom of the screen. How can I adjust the picture size. I also dont stretch the 4:3 shows and have the black bars on the side. I dont like the stretch look.

get into service menu...
Check post#61 for a guideline.
Or other info from the other ~600 post in this thread alone. ;)

Yep, I do have the manual on CD. It lists the high voltage diode simply as: diode, stock number: 243846, position: CR14710 on Deflection-P/S. That's the deflection power supply board. An insert at the top of the list reads: "Warning! This is a Safety Critical Part." The diode is soldered right to the board. I'd strongly suggest you call Sears parts first to determine availability and price of both the diode and the entire board (the board stock # appears to be 1553100B). Reason: the diode failure could possibly have a cascade effect on other components of the power supply board. I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.

My JX-4 failed this past weekend. I could smell it. The picture was still up, but started to whack out. I quickly turned the set off. I came back to this thread to see what what happening with this set. In post 182, JoeFloyd has a jpeg file showing the CR14710 failure on the Deflection P/S. That is exactly the failure I had.

I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with fixing this. I could not see any verification in this thread that it is fixable. It looks like JoeFloyd replaced the diode and had a repeat failure after 2 months. I do not wish to part with the image this set gives. 1700 volts is awful close to the 2k breakdown of this diode and given the pattern of this failure, it seems to be a design issue. I'm comfortable with soldering in the replacement diode, but I'm afraid I will need a service manual to try to understand the disassembly/assembly process. What a rats nest. But I am ready and willing to give it a try. If anyone has words of wisdom for me I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Don

I was hoping for a simple solution. I dont know how or want to go into the service menu.

thanks anyway brother

My JX-4 failed this past weekend. I could smell it. The picture was still up, but started to whack out. I quickly turned the set off. I came back to this thread to see what what happening with this set. In post 182, JoeFloyd has a jpeg file showing the CR14710 failure on the Deflection P/S. That is exactly the failure I had.

I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with fixing this. I could not see any verification in this thread that it is fixable. It looks like JoeFloyd replaced the diode and had a repeat failure after 2 months. I do not wish to part with the image this set gives. 1700 volts is awful close to the 2k breakdown of this diode and given the pattern of this failure, it seems to be a design issue. I'm comfortable with soldering in the replacement diode, but I'm afraid I will need a service manual to try to understand the disassembly/assembly process. What a rats nest. But I am ready and willing to give it a try. If anyone has words of wisdom for me I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Don

To get the diode or the entire deflection P/S board, call the Sears parts and service center. The yellow pages or information should have the appropriate number for your area. Yeah, the service manual on CD would help. It has a list of reasonably simple steps for removing the deflection P/S.It doesn't appear as though you can remove and replace the diode without removing the board from the set. You can order the CD service manual through the Thomson electronics service website for about fifty dollars. I lost track of the web address but you should be able to narrow it down by entering "Thomson Electronics Service" on one of the search engines. Good luck. How many on-time hours (approx.) on your set when the diode failed by the way?

Sludge:

Here's a suggestion that led to a highly satisfactory picture output (by my standards, anyway). Open the "picture settings" with your remote and make the following adjustments:

Contrast-bump it up to about 75% on the scale
Color-set it at 50%-right in the middle of the scale
Tint-same setting as Color
Black Level-set it right at 50%
Picture(?)- blow the fine tuning away or set it just one notch above 0%. All it does is make the picture a little grainey by boosting the contrast without boosting the brightness.

Try these settings and let us know if you're satisfied with the results.

how about color warmth

Sludge:



Contrast-bump it up to about 75% on the scale
Color-set it at 50%-right in the middle of the scale
Tint-same setting as Color
Black Level-set it right at 50%
Picture(?)- blow the fine tuning away or set it just one notch above 0%. All it does is make the picture a little grainey by boosting the contrast without boosting the brightness.

Try these settings and let us know if you're satisfied with the results.


Picture (?) I have Sharpness as my last option. Is this the same as Picture? I placed it at 1 and it looks great. All of the settings you had listed is where I had them except for sharpness.I had it at 60%.

To get the diode or the entire deflection P/S board, call the Sears parts and service center. The yellow pages or information should have the appropriate number for your area. Yeah, the service manual on CD would help. It has a list of reasonably simple steps for removing the deflection P/S.It doesn't appear as though you can remove and replace the diode without removing the board from the set. You can order the CD service manual through the Thomson electronics service website for about fifty dollars. I lost track of the web address but you should be able to narrow it down by entering "Thomson Electronics Service" on one of the search engines. Good luck. How many on-time hours (approx.) on your set when the diode failed by the way?

Thanks, RCA don. I'm not sure how much on time is on the set. Except for power failure times, it has been plugged in continuously since Dec. 2001. I have put a lot of hours on this set. No failures until now. It seemed like this CR14710 failure is a soft failure in that it appears to be just a protection diode (albeit a critical high voltage one) and may just breakdown reverse bias after so many years of being exposed to 1700 volts. However, it appears that JoeFloyd had a contributing cause to the diode failure in that he had a repeat failure. I ordered the manual last night from Thomsen. Once I can see the schematic, then I hope to be able to figure out if I need to replace anything more than just the diode. I will then order the parts and have at it. Even if I don't succeed, this will be a fun little project.

Don

Yeah, I meant the sharpness setting not the "Picture" setting. Just haven't felt a need or desire to change any of the settings for quite some time now. As for color warmth, I keep mine at normal, sometimes switching to warm to make the most of a really lush and rich DVD picture such as " A Walk in the Clouds." Donyoop: good to hear that the service CD is on the way. Post the procedure and results if you decide to go ahead with the diode replacement.

This is my first post, which reflects how few problems I've had since getting my F38310 nearly six years ago. But I've had a nagging problem that doesn't seem to have cropped up for any other user, or at least, not that I can find mentioned on this board.

Here it is: I recently got a Tivo/DirecTV HR10-250 high def PVR and hooked it up to the component input of the F38310. The resulting picture for high def channels is superb, and standard definition is OK. BUT . . . inexplicably and without any apparent trigger, the screen goes haywire and about half the viewable area (bottom half) gets overrun by horizontal, thick-banded multicolored lines stretching from left to right across the screen. They occupy the screen for anywhere from a second to 30 seconds, then disappear and all is well again. I see this problem manifest itself three or four times a day. It happens ONLY on the component input, and I checked the HR10-250 on another TV and it works fine.

More information that could be helpful: I have noticed that the "Rainbow Lines" phenomenon happens when I have the Tivo in 1080i mode. If I get the rainbow lines, and switch the Tivo's output to 480i, the problem will correct itself. BUT . . . occasionally when receiving 480i, the F38310 screen goes blank and gives me the "weak signal" message. The duration of the message is about the same time range (1 to 30 seconds) as the Rainbow bars in 1080i, so I think it's the same issue that's just presenting a different symptom ("weak signal" versus multicolored lines.) Is something wrong with my component connector on the F38310? I've also tried connecting my Sony CX777es DVD changer to the component input, and again I get the dreaded "weak signal" message very frequently while watching a DVD. Also, the colors on the DVDs are washed out.

Can anyone give me any advice? I'd really appreciate it. I love this TV and it has served me well, but I'm worried that this problem may be the deciding point in getting rid of it . . .

Part of your problem could be the number of times you're disconnecting and reconnecting devices to the component input of your TV. you could be slowly but surely loosening (i.e. dsstroying) the connection between the RGB(component) inputs and the video board. If, in fact, you have a video processor in the mix, my point is moot. If not, I'd suggest you acquire one. I replaced my Sony stereo receiver with a clearance-priced($160) Onkyo stereo/video processor with three component inputs and matching optical audio inputs earlier this year.The sound and the video throughput are great and I put an end to crawling behind the TV to swap component cables and wearing down the component input on my TV in the process. Sadly, my guess regarding the deterioration of your component input/video board connection could also explain the "rainbow lines" you describe. A faulty connection could cause to TV to not recognize the incoming signal from the device properly. I've seen lines like the ones you describe when I've set my upscaling DVD player to 720P, a signal that the F38310 doesn't accept. The result? Wavy video noise bars on the screen. To determine if the component video/video board connection could be the cause of your problems, unplug your set, remove the back panel , locate the component input and gently(very gently) press down on the input. Any looseness or movement of the connection indicates a possible, if not probable, source of your problems.

... and even if the set is unplugged, I'd suggest that if you do any poking or prodding on the inside of the chassis, you use a non-conductive tool such as a wooden dowel as opposed to a finger or metal tool. One "oops" could easily become an "aw sh!t" :)

Thanks very much for the reply, and your explanation sounds feasible that it could be some kind of deterioration in the component connector on the F38310. However, I would say that it's unlikely that any deterioration came about from wear-and-tear from switching devices . . . I've basically plugged and unplugged component cables on the TV perhaps four or five times in the six years I've owned the TV, so I really don't think that's very much. I really only started using the component inputs in the last year. Maybe they were faulty to begin with?

As for a video processor . . . I have a component video switcher that I just hooked up, and the same signal problems continue to persist. Not sure if a video switcher (it's made by a company called Impact) is what you mean by a video processor, though . . .

The point you made about seeing similar lines on your F38310 when 720P is connected is interesting. I have theorized at times that my problem could be due to my TV being overly-sensitive to what it perceives as incompatible signal variations from a source (i.e., for whatever reason, it sees 1080i as 720P and for a short interval it glitches the picture.) Why it would do that, I have no idea, but the problem seems to suggest that's what's going on.

Just out of curiosity, would the component input on the back of the F38310 be replacable? It seems like that's where the root of the problem likely is . . .

YOU'RE RIGHT. FIVE OR SIX SWITCHES SHOULDN'T HAVE DONE ANY DAMAGE TO THE COMPONENT INPUT/VIDEO BOARD CONNECTION BUT YOU WON'T KNOW UNTIL YOU OR A SERVICE TECH CHECK IT OUT. IF THE CONNECTION IS IN THE PROCESS OF BREAKING DOWN, YOUR OR A SERVICE TECH SHOULD BE ABLE TO RESOLDER THE CONNECTION. THAT'S ANY ASSUMPTION BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE WITH OLDER TV'S. i HAD S-VIDEO AND COAX CONNECTIONS ON ONE OF THOSE TWENTY-YEAR OLD SONY'S RERAIRED AND THE CONNECTIONS WORKED FINE UNTIL THE PICTURE TUBE LOST IT'S BRIGHTNESS THREE OR FOUR YEARS LATER. TO MAKE THE REPAIR, THE VIDEO BOARD WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO BE REMOVED FROM YOUR SET. NOT CERTAIN ABOUT THAT, THOUGH. VIDEO SWITCHER, VIDEO PROCESSOR: YEAH, I USE BOTH TERMS TO DESCRIBE THE SAME DEVICE OR PROCESS.

Hey all. I just picked one of these up off of craigslist for free last night. Of course it doesn't work, but thats where the fun begins.

I got it home, took the back off and tried to power it up. I hit the power button, and I can hear a chirping sound. It seems to be coming from the bottom board that handles all of the high voltage from what I can see. It sounds like the TV is trying to power up the high voltage, but can't. I can hear the sound five times or so, then the TV powers itself off, and back on again and the same thing happens. I would assume a cap or diode to be bad in that particular switching power supply. After about three of these on/off cycles, I noticed the distinct smell of burning electronics, so unplugged it.

I check the usual culprits, the diodes and caps on the power supply board. The caps look good, the cases aren't busted or bulging, and checking the diodes with the diode test of my DVM revealed that they are also seemingly good. The fans also turn on but then off again after the set powers itself off.

Before I just start ripping it apart and checking things, I just wanted to check to see is anyone has had a similar problem.

The TV is a YX5 revision, built in May of 2002. Any help would be appreciated.

[edit] Also, does anyone know where I can get my hands on a service manual. Should I just contact RCA?

Update on my problem with the component inputs: it appears the F38310 was was designed with a slight offset in order to avoid an interference problem with the tuner. I don't know if this could be partly to blame for my problems, but the symptoms of at least one other F38310 user seem similar to my issues. It's on HDTV Magazine's web site and I found the thread through a google search (AVS Forum won't let me post anything with a web address, or I'd include the URL.)

The writer seems very knowlegable about the design of the F38310, having worked for RCA. Interestingly, he mentions:

"I have long since discarded my schematic diagrams of the 38"
HDTV chassis group, but there is a horizontal frequency adjustment
someplace. (Such adjustment had long since been relegated to factory
controls or software settings since the advent of digital scan control.)"

Does anybody know how I would adjust the horizontal frequency, as he suggests? Is it some internal switch inside the TV or something?

So after some more playing around with the set, I've found that the high voltage does seem to come on, at least some of it. I don't have the equipment necessary to test that high of a voltage but the arm hair static test finds conclusive evidence of a large amount of potential.

My problem sounds similar to post #577, with the cricket-like sounds, although my set does not even power up. Can anyone (Ratman, maybe) please give me a couple of test points on the board so maybe I can test with my meter for proper voltages?

I really need a service manual...

You can order the service manual through the Thomson Electronics Service website. You'll have a choice of CD or paper versions. The paper version is about twenty dollars more than the $50 CD version. I have the CD version and it doesn't contain a really clear depiction of the deflection power supply board in the exploded view. It(the CD version) does contain a clear written description of the deflection power supply removal.

Mr. Leary: this is actually a response to your PM of this P.M. It's a direct copy and paste from the CD Service Manual. Notice the absence of diagrams in regard to the deflection power supply. The printed manual might improve on that situation. Hope it helps.


Deflection/Power Supply (Main) Board Removal
1. Remove Chassis assembly.
2. Remove back and bottom panels.
DTV306
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
Page 2-2
3. Disconnect ground wires from I/O board and
Deflection/P/S board (near A/C connector).
4. Disconnect J14402.
5. Release wire ties and connectors as needed
(depending on how far board needs to be moved from
frame).
Side Fan Removal
1. Disconnect P41125.
2. Twist one tab on each side of the fan assembly.
3. Pull the top of the fan out first, then the rest of the
assembly to remove.
Top Fan Removal (Fig 1)
1. Disconnect P41126.
2. Remove one screw.
3. Slide fan assembly in the direction shown and
remove.
Fig. 1 - Top Fan Assembly Removal

Thanks, RCA don. I'm not sure how much on time is on the set. Except for power failure times, it has been plugged in continuously since Dec. 2001. I have put a lot of hours on this set. No failures until now. It seemed like this CR14710 failure is a soft failure in that it appears to be just a protection diode (albeit a critical high voltage one) and may just breakdown reverse bias after so many years of being exposed to 1700 volts. However, it appears that JoeFloyd had a contributing cause to the diode failure in that he had a repeat failure. I ordered the manual last night from Thomsen. Once I can see the schematic, then I hope to be able to figure out if I need to replace anything more than just the diode. I will then order the parts and have at it. Even if I don't succeed, this will be a fun little project.

Don

Well I have my service manual and I was way off base on what the CR14710 is. The CR14710 is one leg of a full wave bridge rectifier to produce the 1700 volts DC. The 1700 volts DC is then modulated with the dynamic focus blanking signal to produce dynamic focus control. It is more than likely voltage spikes which take out the diode. Since my diode was a "soft" failure, getting real hot but still mostly working, I'm still going to try replacing the diode to see what happens. The transformer and caps in that particular circuit ought to be all right. The root cause may be regulation further back and that could be hard to pinpoint. I've ordered a few diodes and still holding out hope, but not as much hope as before. I'll let you know how it goes.

Don

RCA Don,

Thanks for the excerpt from the manual.

Is there any good way to ensure that the picture tube is discharged before I go poking around in this thing? Is there a bleeder resistor that discharges it automatically?

Mr. Leary: this is actually a response to your PM of this P.M. It's a direct copy and paste from the CD Service Manual. Notice the absence of diagrams in regard to the deflection power supply. The printed manual might improve on that situation. Hope it helps.


Deflection/Power Supply (Main) Board Removal
1. Remove Chassis assembly.
2. Remove back and bottom panels.
DTV306
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
Page 2-2
3. Disconnect ground wires from I/O board and
Deflection/P/S board (near A/C connector).
4. Disconnect J14402.
5. Release wire ties and connectors as needed
(depending on how far board needs to be moved from
frame).
Side Fan Removal
1. Disconnect P41125.
2. Twist one tab on each side of the fan assembly.
3. Pull the top of the fan out first, then the rest of the
assembly to remove.
Top Fan Removal (Fig 1)
1. Disconnect P41126.
2. Remove one screw.
3. Slide fan assembly in the direction shown and
remove.
Fig. 1 - Top Fan Assembly Removal

Overall, I was displeased with the non-descript disassembly procedure. The key is to just move the electronics chassis back far enough to clear the yoke of the CRT and flip it 90 degrees and set it down on the DM-1 module. I only had to disconnect 4 connectors. The bottom panel is then accessible. I did get the CR14710 diode and the accompanying 82 pf cap out... My solder sucking skills suck, but I did an OK job here. I'm also replacing two of the other diodes (2 other legs of the bridge) which are adjacent. When my back-ordered parts get here, I can do that. I will report at the end of the week what happens.

Don

This is my first post, which reflects how few problems I've had since getting my F38310 nearly six years ago. But I've had a nagging problem that doesn't seem to have cropped up for any other user, or at least, not that I can find mentioned on this board.

Here it is: I recently got a Tivo/DirecTV HR10-250 high def PVR and hooked it up to the component input of the F38310. The resulting picture for high def channels is superb, and standard definition is OK. BUT . . . inexplicably and without any apparent trigger, the screen goes haywire and about half the viewable area (bottom half) gets overrun by horizontal, thick-banded multicolored lines stretching from left to right across the screen. They occupy the screen for anywhere from a second to 30 seconds, then disappear and all is well again. I see this problem manifest itself three or four times a day. It happens ONLY on the component input, and I checked the HR10-250 on another TV and it works fine.

Can anyone give me any advice? I'd really appreciate it. I love this TV and it has served me well, but I'm worried that this problem may be the deciding point in getting rid of it . . .

mjfoxtrot,

I had an HR10-250 on my 62" for the last 2 years and an HR20 on the F38310 for the last year, both working with no problems. But recently I decided to move the HR20 over to the 62" and the HR10 to the F38310.

Well now I have exactly the same issue you are having, but have found that it appears that the aspect ratio setting (using the Ratio button) makes the problem kick in. When I have it set to FULL the problem occurs immediately (seems to happen more during commercials than in normal programming). After I set the aspect ratio to PANEL the problem appears reduced. It's only been a day, but I'll keep you posted.

Update:

I think I've found a config for the HR10-250 that works all the time. Go the the video settings menu and set "TV Aspect Ratio" to 4:3 instead of 16:9, then set "Wide Screen Format" from "Letterbox" to "Pan & Scan". I have yet to reproduce the problem with those settings.

Odd, I've been using an w/ my F38310 for years, always set to 16x9. I toggle the Panel/Full setting as source material dictates. This has always worked perfectly and continues to do so.

Sorry if I'm interrupting, but I made this thread last week and was wondering if I could get some additional advice:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=895385

Well anyway, here's the jist of it:
Hey guys, today my 38" RCA went on the fritz. I was watching the exciting display of files being transferred to my Xbox, when the TV looked like it shut off. You know how when you turn off CRT's (usually older ones) the picture converges to a dot or vertical line in the center? Well, it did that along with a clicking noise, which is the same sound it makes when it turns off, but it kept doing it....like every half second. So you see the shutting off converging thing along with a click, then half a second later the same thing, another half second same thing again, etc. The only way I could stop this cycle was by unplugging the unit from the back. After a few minutes, I plugged it back in and it starting doing the same thing right when it got plugged in. I went to the front of the TV and hit the power button. The green light went on, but it kept clicking. I pressed the power button again and the green light went off, but it kept clicking. So I unplugged the unit again and stopped messing around with it.

So, has anyone else ever encountered this before? I would appreciate any type of help I can get. Thanks.

Odd, I've been using an w/ my F38310 for years, always set to 16x9. I toggle the Panel/Full setting as source material dictates. This has always worked perfectly and continues to do so.

rttrek,

I agree it sounds non-plausible, but I was experiencing the issue and was working around it by switching from 1080i to 480i whenever it happened.

I think it might have something to do with the scaling within the HR10 and the settings I've described seem to turn all that off.

mjfoxtrot,

Well I've been testing some more. Although the settings I've described above lessen the problem they do not eliminate it. The problem seems to occur when there is a large amount of black on the screen, or during transitions between commercials and the program. I tried a better component video cable but got the same results :(

Based on rttrek's post the he has an HR10 and has no issues I decided to focus on the F38310's settings instead of the HR10's. I use the F38310 as a 2nd television in the main room, so I often use it's built-in speakers for audio. However most of the time I have the audio muted so I can listen to the audio from my main display (a 61" JVC).

I noticed that I only seemed to get the video issue when I had the F38310 audio muted. I checked all the F38310 settings and it dawned on me that when I was still using the internal receiver I had the F38310 set to use "CLOSED CAPTIONING" whenever I muted the audio. My theory is that maybe the set was interpreting the transitions as CC material and that possibly was causing the video issue.

Well since I turned off all the CC options on the F38310 I have not experienced the issue. I've even set all the HR10 options back to what they should be (16:9 and panel or full).

It's only been a few hours. I'll keep you posted.

Sorry if I'm interrupting, but I made this thread last week and was wondering if I could get some additional advice:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=895385

Well anyway, here's the jist of it:

LordSte,

I had a problem like that a couple years ago. I took it in for repair out of warranty. It cost me $180 to get it fixed and I haven't had a problem since (other than the OTA dying, but I use the HR10 for that now) :D

We replaced our F38310 with a 1080P Samsung 56" DLP in our main tv room over one year ago. The RCA has been sitting unused for that time, mainly because I was having a hard time finding a tv stand tall enough and strong enough to be used in our bedroom. Ending up picking up a stand on Friday and my neighbor and I picked this beast up and got it onto the stand this morning. Although I do not currently have a HD signal going into it (will have Verizon replace the SD box with a HD asap) the dvds look just as good as I remembered. Just to make sure I am not overlooking it, is there any type of sleep timer on this tv?

Good sleuthing Mostau!

LordSte,

I had a problem like that a couple years ago. I took it in for repair out of warranty. It cost me $180 to get it fixed and I haven't had a problem since (other than the OTA dying, but I use the HR10 for that now) :D

Thanks bro. I might have to get someone to come over and fix it. There's no way I can lift that thing. We already had trouble with 3 people trying to get it DOWN the stairs when we first got it. Maybe I'll rent a crane.

Overall, I was displeased with the non-descript disassembly procedure. The key is to just move the electronics chassis back far enough to clear the yoke of the CRT and flip it 90 degrees and set it down on the DM-1 module. I only had to disconnect 4 connectors. The bottom panel is then accessible. I did get the CR14710 diode and the accompanying 82 pf cap out... My solder sucking skills suck, but I did an OK job here. I'm also replacing two of the other diodes (2 other legs of the bridge) which are adjacent. When my back-ordered parts get here, I can do that. I will report at the end of the week what happens.


The 82 pf cap is finally off of national backorder. It will arrive Tuesday. I'll post results Wed. night. After removal, the 82 pf cap which straddles the CR14710 appeared to be leaky when I put a DVM on it. That got my hopes up.

Don

I've read many of the posts.. I have an RCA F38310JX5. About three years ago the power supply died; I had it repaired at a shop, and it cost me a bundle. Now, after a tree knocked out power and blew the transformer on the pole, despite my supposedly heavy-duty surge protector-power conditioner, a day after that event I came into the room and though the set was "off" it was clicking like a UPS. I turned the set on, and then off; no picture; the a sizzle and zap sound; I unplugged it. This is very similar to what happened in 2004. Is this the tuner power supply I've read so much about, or the main chassis supply? I mostly use this with video inputs, not the tumer. Can I buy and replace the paets myself?

The 82 pf cap is finally off of national backorder. It will arrive Tuesday. I'll post results Wed. night. After removal, the 82 pf cap which straddles the CR14710 appeared to be leaky when I put a DVM on it. That got my hopes up.

Don

I am happy to report that my F38310 is up and running again. I soldered in the 82 pf cap C14730 that has been on national backorder for the last 7 weeks, put the beast back together, and success. The picture is stable and no smoke. Woohoo. :D I have about 3 hours on the set with the repair so far and I am a happy camper at the moment. The F38310 has such great contrast and spectacular high def image. The fried part was the infamous CR14710 which is straddled by C14730. I measured the C14730 that I took out with a dvm and got slightly less than a megohm, which tells me that it is leaky. That may be due to heat damage from the adjacent CR14710, or may have been the cause of the fried CR14710. I have been wondering why only CR14710 of the bridge circuit fried. Could it be due to the leaky cap? Possibly.

Parts replaced were: CR14710, C14730, CR14709, and CR14750. The reason I replace CR14709 and CR14750 is that they are suspect because they are adjacent to CR14710 and possibly could have suffered heat damage. I know that JoeFloyd also had initial success with the CR14710 replacement only to have it fry again after 3 months. I guess time will tell here. If it lasts more than 6 months, the repair will have been well worth it.

One tricky part of the repair was that when replacing the CR14710 diode, you have to be careful with the ferrite beads (very small donut shaped parts) which are on each lead. Those ferrite beads must be replaced on the new CR14710 diode before it is soldered in. Other than that, the most challenging part was using the solder sucker to desolder the parts. I used the $8 radio shack solder vacuuming tool which worked great.

Don

I recently got an HR20-700 and hooked it up to the F38310. Everything looks great, but I'm having an odd issue with the remote. When I use the button to turn on DirecTV and the TV simultaneously (upper right) the TV turns on in TV mode, rather than the component inputs that were last used. I can hit the TV input button and then channel down to get back to Component inputs, but that's kind of a drag to have to do every time I turn the TV on. If switch the remote to TV mode and then press Power this doesn't occur.

Anyone else see this behavior?

This is normal. I usually turn the power on from the set itself, or else block the remote when I press "tv" and then hit "power". I also assigned a button on the remote to switch to the component inputs when I press it. That is done in the menu under ???"switching"??? or something... can't remember right now.

Congratulations to donyoop for resurrecting a great TV. Got a question for you: Based on your knowledge of circuitry and the fact that you replaced several components in the deflection/PS circuit, what failed first? Did the CR14710 safety diode succumb to a voltage spike or repeated use and create a cascade effect that damaged the other components? Or was it the other way around? My reason for asking is that I ordered two of the CR14710 diodes from Sears Parts ($6.96 each plus shipping) and I'm weighing the advisability to having one of them installed before the existing diode fails. My objective is to squeeze another two to three years use out of my F38310 without a three to five hundred dollar service call. Obviously, no part replacement can guarantee another few years of reliable performance but it seems as though minimizing the chance of failure in the high or low voltage power supplies ups the odds substantially. I now have the parts to do both.

A heads up to all F38310 owners: if Sears is any kind of a barometer, suppliers appear to be reducing their inventories of replacement parts for our set. Sears no longer carries the DM-1 power supply module I ordered and received from them back in April. They showed no record of the deflection/PS circuit board. The Sears rep showed no reorder plans and when I asked about the number of different 38310 parts available she responded with, "It's a very short list." No cause for panic I guess. Just the way it goes for a mature and discontinued product.

Whadyathink, donyoop? Should I hire someone to replace my CR14710 with a new one?

Joynert: Sounds like that power surge took out the safety diode in your deflection/PS(high voltage) power supply. Read the recent posts by Donyoop and, to a lesser extent, myself about the repair and parts availability. Obviously, people with donyoop's knowledge and ability can make the repair themselves. I couldn't but I am real good at buying the parts. Don't delay too long. As my last post indicates, parts for the F38310 appear to be getting scarce.

RCA Don;

I called Sears today and the only parts they list now are the owner's manual and the remote control; the "power supply board" (no number available) is listed as "service repair only," i.e. a consumer can't order it and the rep can't see the part number or the price. No individual diodes or caps were listed.

A popular thread moderated by "ratman" on HDTvoice

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/forumdisplay.php?f=10&page=1&sort=lastpost&order=&pp=20&daysprune=-1

has lots of info on the power supply problems, and the supposedly infamous "cap-doide problem," and links to various posts, but nowhere does there seem to be a comprehensive how-to that addresses such things as:

1. What are the various power supplies (there seem to be two)

2. What components should be replaced, both because they are damaged or because they were too weak to begin woth

3. What are the RCA part numbers of these componemnts

4. where can they be purchased?

5. What is the replacement/install sequence?

6. Exactly what is the "cap-diode problem " and how is it corrected?

Like many here, I like having the only 38" direct view HDTV ever made; plasmas and LCDs and projection TVs now come close, but the image doesn't "pop" like on a real CRT, and I'd like to keep this running until something truly better comes along.

I'm well versed on the old cap-diode problem. That's a situation where a pair of under-rated capacitors in the DM-1 low voltage failed on took two diodes in the same circuit with them. Many later production runs of the F38310 had properly rated capacitors in place,my set among them. To be doubly safe, I have a complete DM-1 power supply board (from Sears) on hand. My question to you remains: Does the CR14710 you successfully replaced appear to be the first component to fail in that circuit and, if so, would replacing it before it fails prolong the life of the other components in that circuit? As I mentioned, I have a pair of those diodes in my possession.

The infamous cap/diode problem of the DM1 power supply is totally unrelated to complete "power down" issues of the TV and only affects the internal tuner. This has been discussed here and other forums sinec 2001. Searching here and the other forums will eventually produce part numbers and such...

Congratulations to donyoop for resurrecting a great TV. Got a question for you: Based on your knowledge of circuitry and the fact that you replaced several components in the deflection/PS circuit, what failed first? Did the CR14710 safety diode succumb to a voltage spike or repeated use and create a cascade effect that damaged the other components? Or was it the other way around? My reason for asking is that I ordered two of the CR14710 diodes from Sears Parts ($6.96 each plus shipping) and I'm weighing the advisability to having one of them installed before the existing diode fails. My objective is to squeeze another two to three years use out of my F38310 without a three to five hundred dollar service call. Obviously, no part replacement can guarantee another few years of reliable performance but it seems as though minimizing the chance of failure in the high or low voltage power supplies ups the odds substantially. I now have the parts to do both.

A heads up to all F38310 owners: if Sears is any kind of a barometer, suppliers appear to be reducing their inventories of replacement parts for our set. Sears no longer carries the DM-1 power supply module I ordered and received from them back in April. They showed no record of the deflection/PS circuit board. The Sears rep showed no reorder plans and when I asked about the number of different 38310 parts available she responded with, "It's a very short list." No cause for panic I guess. Just the way it goes for a mature and discontinued product.

Whadyathink, donyoop? Should I hire someone to replace my CR14710 with a new one?

That is a good question. What failed first, the diode or the capacitor? Why did the failure occur? Was it heat related or an external voltage spike? Don't know, Mongo only pawn in game of life. I believe that the capacitor leakage induced more current through the diode which in turn could have generated a long term heat failure of the diode. I recommend replacing the 82 pf C14730 as well as the CR14710 if the CR14710 fries. I may be wrong about this. In fact, I am not even 50% confident that the leaky cap was the root cause. My set has been up and running only 3 days now on the fix and I will need a lot more time to determine if the root cause was the leaky cap.

If you don't currently have a problem with the CR14710, I would not change anything. The CR14710 is a little tricky due to the ferrite beads.
The C14730 could be changed out, but those high voltage caps are generally reliable and if not heat damaged, they should be OK.

Don

Good advice, donyoop. Much like ratman's missive a few months back; "If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think I'm just going to locate and order that C14730 capacitor you employed, pack it away along with the safety diodes and DM-1 power supply I acquired and hope I don't have to utilize any of them for a couple of years or more. I couldn't agree more with your description of the 38310's picture quality.I'm just back from shopping for a lawn mower at a local Sear's Outlet store. Naturally, I also checked out the TV's. Guess what picture literally jumped off the shelf, head and shoulders above the others for picture quality? A battered Sony 34" CRT HDTV. And ours is four inches or more larger on the diag. Life is good...as long as my safety diode holds up.

RCA Don, Ratman;

I ordered a kit (DTV306-KIT) from Tritronics that supposedly has "common failure items," so I'll see what arrives.

i have yet to take the back off (I need to turn the set around on its shelf, no easy task), so I can't see exactly waht looks fried, but you guys have given me enough insight into what to look for and replace that I'm going to try this weekend.

And yes, Sears claims they now only sell the power supply board to a "registered service providor" and the rep couldn't even see what the part number was.

Even so, I have to admit I'm considering getting a new set anyway... newest DLP rear-projections aren't bad, newest LCDs supposedly have solved the motion and contrast problems; I'm still afraid of plasma, though it most closely approximates a CRT.

I'll let you know!

Hello,

I have a f38310 that I bought from my parents recently for $300. As my father is a DirecTv dealer, he used this TV extensively, and it has never given him any problems. Last check of the odometer was 55,000+.

Anyway, I fear that it may be succumbing to the problems I have seen posted here, but I am not certain. The volume turns itself down, I cannot change the input (stuck on TV) and the buttons on the top don't respond. I can't program the remote to it. I have to unplug it to turn it off. When I do plug it in, it seems like it takes longer to turn on than it used to. Is this the "cap & diode" problem?

I don't have DirecTV or an antenna hooked up to it, I have Verizon cable, DVD player, XBOX 360, PS2, and a stereo system connected through a component box.

From what I read it sounds like this may be a lost cause and replacement parts are now scarce, but I really love this TV and would like to try to fix it. It is the first and only HDTV I have owned. :(

Dead Power Supply.

I have a F38310JX5 that stopped working some time back. Just prior to the failure I heard a high-pitched ringing that sounded suspiciously like a cap ready to blow. The picture popped off so I unplugged the set (worried about fire). When I plugged it back in, I could hear a fan, but nothing happened when I hit the power button. No LED, nothing.

I had an RCA recommended tech come in and look at it and he said I had a dead power supply and that he could not fix it. He would not guarantee the repair even if he could fix it. I called RCA and they said I should scrap the set.

I can't believe it can't be fixed, especially after reading some of these posts. I have an electronic background (not TV though) and access to diagnostic tools. I took the back of the set off and removed the board on the left side (looking from the back) labeled PS1T, however this board seems to trace back to what I assume is the Direct TV chassis, and that fan still runs when the TV is plugged in.

So my first question to you experienced - is there another power supply board for the TV and how would I access it? I don't want to start digging around too much without some direction.

Hello,

I have a f38310jx4 that I bought from my parents recently for $300. As my father is a DirecTv dealer, he used this TV extensively, and it has never given him any problems. Last check of the odometer was 55,000+.

Anyway, I fear that it may be succumbing to the problems I have seen posted here, but I am not certain. The volume turns itself down, I cannot change the input (stuck on TV) and the buttons on the top don't respond. I can't program the remote to it. I have to unplug it to turn it off. When I do plug it in, it seems like it takes longer to turn on than it used to. Is this the "cap & diode" problem?

I don't have DirecTV or an antenna hooked up to it, I have Verizon cable, DVD player, XBOX 360, PS2, and a stereo system connected through a component box.

From what I read it sounds like this may be a lost cause and replacement parts are now scarce, but I really love this TV and would like to try to fix it. It is the first and only HDTV I have owned. :(

OK, after moving this beast out of the living room and into a spare room, I plugged it in just to see if maybe it being unplugged for a day helped matters, and sure enough, it worked fine for about an hour. But after that it began the volume thing and trying to switch channels. Luckily when it was working correctly I had put it on channel lock, so I was at least able to watch cable.

So I guess the question still stands as in my original post.

OK, after moving this beast out of the living room and into a spare room, I plugged it in just to see if maybe it being unplugged for a day helped matters, and sure enough, it worked fine for about an hour. But after that it began the volume thing and trying to switch channels. Luckily when it was working correctly I had put it on channel lock, so I was at least able to watch cable.

So I guess the question still stands as in my original post.

I would not think that this problem is the original cap & diode problem on the DM-1 power supply. Looks like some sort of heat related failure on the A/V board or a heat related power supply failure to that board. The problem could be either place. I believe to find this problem you would need the service manual with schematics, have the unit torn apart and fired up, and use freeze mist on a couple of suspect components to see if you can see if the problem repairs itself. You would have to be aware of where all of the high voltages are and totally avoid them with the freeze mist (appropriate for TTL or less voltage level components). Then, if you are able to pinpoint the failing component, you have a chance at fixing the beast.

Don

I would not think that this problem is the original cap & diode problem on the DM-1 power supply. Looks like some sort of heat related failure on the A/V board or a heat related power supply failure to that board. The problem could be either place. I believe to find this problem you would need the service manual with schematics, have the unit torn apart and fired up, and use freeze mist on a couple of suspect components to see if you can see if the problem repairs itself. You would have to be aware of where all of the high voltages are and totally avoid them with the freeze mist (appropriate for TTL or less voltage level components). Then, if you are able to pinpoint the failing component, you have a chance at fixing the beast.

Don


Thanks for your help! Now to find someone that knows what they are doing that won't charge $500.......lol

Does anyone know...It just happening while we watching tv then the screen when black,
the relay on main power board clicking on and off and also the fan on top main power board also on and off as the relay clicking on and off. Found out the thermistor (or varistor) next to degause relay was burn out. Replaced did not help. Power supply on the side of HDTV module, all power caps are look ok and no cold solder joint and no other component are burn out. I have no schematic, call RCA and thomsonservice to order schematic they said only service authorize dealer handle this, they give me phone # of loacal service provider, i called them they are not supply schematic. I am knowledge of electronic but not TV.

Hey guys wow its been a while since i last posted here, anyways i moved to a new house and now my viewing distince is 11 FT to 15FT so it was time for a new bigger tv. i ended up buying the TH-50PX75U

http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-electronics/shop/Televisions/Plasma-HDTVs/model.TH-50PX75U_11002_7000000000000005702

anyways i know its kinda off topic but i thought i mentioned it. now to decide what to do with this tv and wheather or not to renew the warranty from Circuit city.....

hae a great day

i've had the f38310 for 4 years and have the ext warranty- every oct i keep wondering whether i should re-up... another $146/ year...
my luck it'll never crap out!
anyone cash in lately on an unfixable machine? wondering what they're giving if they can't fix it

Probably around $146. :)

Probably around $146. :)

great... thanks! :eek: you're probably right

Well, my kit finally arrived and I replaced three parts on the main circuit board that were fried or suspect - two resistors and a diode (R14611, R14603 Q14601), . When I plugged her in, obviously the problem was partly fixed, because the TV no longer was clicking (or frying parts) like it had done as it died; the fan came on, and when I powered it up the "power" light lit, but no picture. I suspect there are other parts that need replacing, but physical examination showed no candidates. The power supply (DM1) looked OK; no bulging caps or any signs of obvious damage, no blown fuses; I also opened up the tuner and that looked OK too, but I assume that since the unit powers up but has no picture the problem lies in the tuner...

I'm about to give up on this TV; any last-chance suggestions, or does anybody want parts? LOL

Hey guys,
This is my first time posting on here, I've had my F38210JX4 since Dec 2001. I fell in love with the picture when I first saw it at Best Buy. Anyways, the TV has been very reliable since I got but this week we moved into our new home and I think the TV didn't survive. I got the whole thing set up and turned it on and everything seemed to work. So I plugged in the 360 and receiver so I could get sound etc and turned her back on using the power button at the top and then tried to use the remote to change from TV to DirecTV, at which point the remote wouldn't control the TV. I then tried using the top buttons to change things and now all 4 buttons at the top of the TV just switch the set between TV and DirecTV. The picture looks great but I can't change channels or go to the Inputs. I'm stuck.

Oh I just found out that if I hold the Power button on the TV, the remote works fine and I can switch to everything I want but I gotta hold the Power button down. :( Any thoughts on what's going on?

Thanks!

Unplug the TV from wall power for a few minutes. Plug back in and power up the TV by pressing the blue "TV" button on the remote.

Thanks for the reply Ratman, unfortunately that didn't work, the TV still ignores the remote unless I hold down the power button on the top of the TV. Same symptoms, right now I just have tape holding the power button down and operate the TV from the remote. Seems to be a valid work around for now.

Have you checked to see that none of the buttons are "stuck" or perhaps the internal contacts corroded?

Unplug the TV again and depress all of the buttons a few times each. who knows? Maybe it will help...

I bought a refirb off ebay in 2002. Purchased the RCA extended warranty, and 1 year later experienced a total failure. It took the shop over 3 months to fix, but when it came back the Tech. told me they had billed RCA over 1k, and that the set was virtually rebuilt, again.. Since then every month or two, the picture sort of melts away and fades to black. I unplug for a few minutes, and it comes back just fine. I suspect that when it has major break down again, I'll probably let it go.

Picture is great,, but am wondering if the built in Direct TV and HD reciever are still current. I'm not able to see all the new HD channels offered this month from DTV in the profile screen. I'm running an oval dish with 3 LNB's and set is adjusted to that equip. Thought I would ask you guys before I go through the hassel of talking to someone in Malasia..

Bill Collins
Euless, TX

The internal tuner in the F38310 (actually a DTC-100) is outdated and cannot be upgraded to accomodate the "new" 5 LNB dish and/or "new" HD offerings from D*.

bkolnz,

However, you can install the larger 5 LNB dish along with the appropriate set top box (STB), enabling you to receive the latest HD programming. That's what I did on my F38310J4. DTV charged me $100 for the STB and provided and installed the dish free of charge, but they charged $75 for the pole on which to set the dish. I thought $175 was a good deal.

Fred

Folkes;

I picked up a free F38310YX5 off of craig's list. It was dead except for a fan and some noticeable transformer squeal. I checked all the obvious things listed in this forum. All seemed fine, caps and diodes. I don't have the time or $$s to invest in it. So, I saved the chasis and supply board that sits next to the chasis and tossed the rest. If any one wants the chasis or supply board they can have it. I did pull CR14710 but still have it. I may have lost one of the ferrite beads that goes on it. If you want it, email me. Hopefully it is of some use to somebody. I'm in New Hampshire.
-Chris

I haven't checked in here for over a year. I bought my F38310 refurbished in 2002. I think the diodes, etc. must have been fixed by RCA on the refurb because I haven't had any problems.

Net: still working great with great picture. I long ago stopped using the internal DTC-100 tuner when I got a HR10-250 from D*. My extended warranty is now up so I hope it continues to perform for a while longer. Other than it is a big heavy set, the picture is still second to none, IMHO.

Here's hoping everyone else with a working set can enjoy it for a lot longer.

I have read parts of this post but I will ask the question anyway, My set has been working for the past 5 years but now it will not turn on after it warms up. It just cycles with a clicking sound every second or so. If you unplug it and let it cool then it will work again. Any suggestions. I can fix it if I know which parts to replace.

Felt like a spy in the corner because I had a very basic setup with old but reliable A/V equipment and My JX4 Nov 01 38310. You guys on this thread are a great resource so here goes.
I love my set, and it works great:). I'm considering buying the new Sony PS 3 for its Blu-Ray potential but hear it only has HDMI output. Can our set even hook up to this thing? I just bought an Onkyo A/V receiver to upgrade the Audio and give me more video freedom. I have a DTV HD DVR upgrade coming next week as well. Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!

I have an F38310 as well and you can only conect component up to it. Does your new receiver have HDMI inputs and able to pass along and convert that signal over to component?

Felt like a spy in the corner because I had a very basic setup with old but reliable A/V equipment and My JX4 Nov 01 38310. You guys on this thread are a great resource so here goes.
I love my set, and it works great:). I'm considering buying the new Sony PS 3 for its Blu-Ray potential but hear it only has HDMI output. Can our set even hook up to this thing? I just bought an Onkyo A/V receiver to upgrade the Audio and give me more video freedom. I have a DTV HD DVR upgrade coming next week as well. Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!

I have both a JX4 and an Onkyo (Model HS 500 I think) A/V receiver. My receiver has component inputs and outputs; no HDMI in/out. If your Onkyo has an HDMI input, it should pass the signal through its component outputs to your TV. What? No HDMI on your Onkyo. If so, here's hoping it isn't too late to exchange it for an HDMI-equipped unit. I'm not aware of a HDMI/component adapter. HDMI to DVI adapters exist but that's a digital-to-digital connection where a component to HDMI connection would be analog to digital which is probably not feasible.

Broadcast news to all 38310 thread members: my 38310JX4 is still putting out great HD pictures with nary a power failure or other glitch. It's been in continuous use since February, 2001 and powered on for about 12,000 hours of that period.The replacement parts (high voltage safety diode and DM-1 power supply board) I purchased are still in their shipping cartons which is where I believe they'll stay for a couple of more years. Ya never know, though. Any latebreaking news about problems and/or solutions for F38310s from anyone?

i've had my rca for 5 years now without a problem - i've been getting the warranty year to year but i haven't reupped this time-- now i'm wondering if i should or not!

As of two weeks ago I am no longer an owner of one of these fine sets.

My set up was a PS3 with component out at 1080i through an Onkyo 604 to the tv's component input. It worked very well. Also had a dvd player through the Onkyo too, via component.

My 38310 has lasted 5 years with no problems.

Once I saw Stevenage used the 2 together, I went and got the PS3. with the free movies, I couldn't resist trying.
It Works! Just Buy the Sony Component cable for pS3. Blu-Ray looks amazing:D! 1 annoying glitch though. When the PS3 (menu)is set to output at 1080i the screen goes squiggley(unreadable):confused:. I put in a movie and the lines vanish and it's crystal clear. But I have to figure it out because you can't read anything until a movie triggers it. I'm wondering what would cause that effect. Resetting it multiple times worked once where I could read the menu in 1080i. Thoughts?

I'm wondering what would cause that effect. Resetting it multiple times worked once where I could read the menu in 1080i. Thoughts?

Could be the tv trying to sync with the signal? Give it some more time to sync.

Uh-oh, I think my set has finally crapped out. I haven't had it on all day, and tonight, when I tried to turn it on, the light on the set top power button came on, stayed on for a few seconds, then went off - no picture or sound. I unplugged and replugged the set, heard the set sort of "click" like it was coming on, but still nothing. If anyone still checks here and might have a clue, I could sure use one right about now. Thanks...

Mine just stopped working last week (12 Nov), had it since Sep 2001 with no problems up until now. Wouldn't power on, no fan sound, fortunately I kept the extended warranty current. The tech was just out today, and though it showed no bulging capacitors as mentioned in the past, it was the DM-1 power board that needed replacing. Should get the part in next week.

Mine just stopped working last week (12 Nov), had it since Sep 2001 with no problems up until now. Wouldn't power on, no fan sound, fortunately I kept the extended warranty current. The tech was just out today, and though it showed no bulging capacitors as mentioned in the past, it was the DM-1 power board that needed replacing. Should get the part in next week.

Would you describe yourself as a heavy-duty TV watcher (45 hours per week or more)? Reason I ask is my 38310 was purchased about seven months before yours. I have a new DM-1 power supply board on hand and I'm thinking it might be a good idea to install it as a precaution because I understand that some DM-1 failures can also cascade over into the DM-1 tuner itself. most of my viewing (90%) is through the component inputs so I'm a light OTA (DM-1 tuner) user. That might explain why my DM-1 power supply has lasted this long. What about you?

I just checked the odometer on mine. 42,000. What does that mean? There is no way that is in hours of use. It has been plugged in that long though.

It is working fine. It was overscanning way too much with the component input and I just learned enough to fix that and now it is good. Station logos were half chopped off and we know they don't put them right at the edge.

I just checked the odometer on mine. 42,000. What does that mean? There is no way that is in hours of use. It has been plugged in that long though.

It is working fine. It was overscanning way too much with the component input and I just learned enough to fix that and now it is good. Station logos were half chopped off and we know they don't put them right at the edge.

The odometer indicates nothing more or less than the number of hours the set has been receiving power. Actual power-on use is a relatively small fraction of that figure. I never experienced the overscan through the component inputs that you describe. guess I got lucky with my 38310 in that area, too.

My f38310jx4 RCA HDTV just clicks when plugged in so I have a few questions that may be easy for you guys to answer:

1) DM-1 power supply or DM-1 Board problem?

2) I think RCA Don posted the model number for the DM-1 Board a bit back if you think it may be the DM-1 Power supply could I get its part number?

3) I've read about a caps and diodes fix, but didn't see what the fix was or what to check for to see if I have a problem... Is that simply replacing the DM-1 board?

4) Is there anything else you guys would suggest that could cause the tv to just click when plugged in?

Thanks tons!

Scott

I have a JX4 made in June 2001. Just this morning, it won't come on--no lights, no fan, no clicks, nothing. It's out of warranty--any ideas, or would someone like to use it for parts?

Thanks for any advice.

My f38310jx4 RCA HDTV just clicks when plugged in so I have a few questions that may be easy for you guys to answer:

1) DM-1 power supply or DM-1 Board problem?

2) I think RCA Don posted the model number for the DM-1 Board a bit back if you think it may be the DM-1 Power supply could I get its part number?

3) I've read about a caps and diodes fix, but didn't see what the fix was or what to check for to see if I have a problem... Is that simply replacing the DM-1 board?

4) Is there anything else you guys would suggest that could cause the tv to just click when plugged in?

Thanks tons!

Scott

The RCA(Thomson) part number for the DM-1 power supply module is 46-356712-3. A failure on that board is a quite likely but not certain cause of your problem. Get the power supply board and you can forget about the old caps/diodes issue. The underrated caps and affected diodes were on early versions of the DM-1 power supply board. See Marzer's post #702 in this thread. A service tech identified his problem as the DM-1 power supply and his symptoms are almost identical to yours.

You seriously rock! I'll keep you guys posted as to if that fixes my issue... not that I ever watch it... I just don't like watching it in it's current "Bricked" state.

Thanks tons!

Scott

I have a f38310 jx4 that having a picture problems. The picture has horizontal white scan lines every inch or so. It has been sitting for a year, but I will never get around to fixing it.

The set is locate on the North side of Houston in Spring.

Email me if you want the set and stand. johnkiefer@yahoo.com


John K.

I just bought an RCA F38310 used for a pretty good price to supplement my other CRT HDTV; I purchased this one for gaming. The guy I bought it from didn't seem to use it much, no HDTV feed into it; he just used it to watch DVDs basically. It's in excellent shape.

It's a JX4, made in April of 2001. Getting it to the second floor and in my media room took three strong guys and I don't think we'll ever be able to get it back down. I plan on opening it up soon to disable the SVM.

I hooked up my 360 to test it last night and the only thing that bothered me was some woblyness in the 1080i picture. I don't know if that could be after affects from the one hour truck ride home, SVM(made my other TV looks terrible), or another issue.

Also, should I resolder an capacitors as a preventive measure to make the set last longer? If not, where can I order a DM-1 board? I see the part number listed here, but where can I get the board from and what's roughly the cost of it?

Thanks!

1) IMO, disabling SVM wasn't an improvement. I found that lowering "sharpness" one click (from the left) was best for me. YMMV

2) resoldering caps is not the issue. If they are underrated, they need to be replaced. If the are bulged at the top then it's best to replace. If they are "brown", then they are the problematic caps. If they are "silver/blue"... they are upgraded and no need to be concerned.

3) the DM1 power supply "problem" only affects the internal tuner (DirecTV/OTA). Even if blown, component/composite inputs will still work.

1) IMO, disabling SVM wasn't an improvement. I found that lowering "sharpness" one click (from the left) was best for me. YMMV

2) resoldering caps is not the issue. If they are underrated, they need to be replaced. If the are bulged at the top then it's best to replace. If they are "brown", then they are the problematic caps. If they are "silver/blue"... they are upgraded and no need to be concerned.

3) the DM1 power supply "problem" only affects the internal tuner (DirecTV/OTA). Even if blown, component/composite inputs will still work.

1.) I lowered the sharpness all the way to the bottom last night, and everything was a blurry blurry mess. I didn't try one or two clicks from the left though.

2.) Are the caps all located on the DM-1 board, or on the power supply board as well? I just need to know where to look when I open this puppy up. I deal with budging/bad caps at a regular basis at my job, so I just need to know where I should be looking.

3.) There's no OTA in my area, nor did the previous owner have DirectTv, not do I, so I suppose that won't be a problem :)

Thanks!

the two problematic caps are on the DM1 power supply board. When looking from the back of the set, the board to the left of the tall steel box (DM1).

Courtesy of DrJoe:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310.pdf

Does anyone have any current powerstrip timings/modelines for 480p/540p and 1080i? I'm going to be hooking this TV up to a HTPC box in linux with a VGA to component transcoder.

I just bought one of these tvs a couple months ago from Craiglist, and am loving it! Quite an upgrade from 19" 4:3! Reception is noticeably better than with the kworld hdtv tuner card I had in my computer; channels I never got on the pc come in perfectly fine with the tv, using the same rca powered indoor antenna.

I really like the built-in tv guide, that's pretty neat, never seen a tv that could do that with just an antenna before, although it could be faster... kinda annoying if I go out of the guide and come back, or wrap around back to the channels I started at, it has to re-aquire the data. Can't complain too much tho, this wasn't even a feature I knew existed before buying it!

Also purchased a Toshiba HD-A2 around the same time ($98 walmart special) and it looks great doing 1080i over component... I ran HDMI into my Onkyo 604 receiver for the full audio too, I'm glad the HDA2 can do component video and hdmi at the same time so I didnt have to "settle" for spdif audio.

The stand looks great, but it's isnt very intelligently shaped in my opinion, its not deep enough to put two a/v components side by side (i.e. receiver and hddvd player), and since I need one shelf for my center channel speaker, I had to use an additional stand for the a/v stuff. I really think it would have made more sense to be more square, the corners they cut out are competely wasted space.

Before buying it my only concern was the lack of 720p support on component, but that doesnt seem to be an issue anyway, every HD-DVD I've rented so far is 1080, and my pc automatically scales everything to 1080i, and that's all I've got hooked up (so far - I do have one more component input on my receiver incase I ever get a game console or whatever).

The only issue I can't figure out is how to remove analog stations from the up/down list. For example I get channel 7 analog and 7-1/7-2/7-3 digital, but it doesn't seem there is a way to remove the analog when a HD channel maps to the same place, or do remove specific subchannels and keep others. Example I'm watching 5-1 and push up, it goes to 7 then up again for 7-1, I just wanna go straight to 7-1 (there's no channel 6 here). There's foreign language subchannels I'd like to remove too, but keep the rest of them... doesn't seem possible.

I'm glad this set still has an active thread! That's great. I bought the 38310 in 2001. 2+ years later I bought a new display. I gave the RCA to my dad. It's been a great set for 7 years!

Last Friday we had a huge storm in Northern California. My dad's electricity went out for about 5 seconds. He doesn't have the set plugged into a surge protector, but there was no lightening.

Since then he has not been able to receive a picture. He has a STB that seems to be functioning. There's audio through the A/V receiver, just no picture on the TV.

I also tried the DVD player and the audio can be heard through the receiver, but no picture.

The "on" light, at the top of the TV, is glowing. The set is making a slight humming sound that can be heard from the rear. The rear of the picture tube, when you look through the top, is glowing orange.

I have unplugged the set. When it's plugged back in, there are two 1/4" wide green and red lines that are about 4-5 inches in length ... in the middle of the screen. When the set is unplugged or plugged in there is a surge in the brightness of the red line that then fades slightly, but the 2 (red and green) lines don't go away, unless the set is off.

The set worked perfectly until this situation occurred. I don't know whether to call a repair guy. My dad can't afford much so I don't want him to waste his money.

Does this sound like an expensive problem to fix? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have other question. I've read a lot about "cap/diodes" being replaced on this set. If they go bad would they cause the kind of problem I described above? As I said I've plugged and unplugged the set numerous times but that doesn't change anything, except to make the thin 5" long 1/4" wide line glow temporarily brighter.

Also, how much do they cost to replace? Thanks again.

Hello: Anyone interested in my F38310 with stand? It's free... Needs repair you can search the threads and see my postings from June-July, other than that the beast is very clean. I would fix it but 1) Wife hates the huge monster and 2) have no more room after getting new TV and pellet stove, which was put in place where tv use to be. Let me know.

I've had a 38310 since I was given a refurb in July of 2001 while working for TCE.... I left it behind when I moved, as it was just too darned heavy to move across state lines! My godson and two of his football player buddies staggered out the door with it about a year and a half ago.

Just visited it this weekend, and it's still chugging along just as well as it has ever been. He's got a standard cable box hooked up, but uses it primarily for his xBox....and it looks great.

Hope I've not jinxed him with this post:p, but I never had a moment's problem with it, and neither has he!

I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread! I bought my RCA F38310 in May 2001 and haven't had any major problems. It's a great set.

The one feature I hadn't used until about six months ago was the built-in DirecTV. I also bought an HR-20 but had the tech run a third line for the RCA. The hard part was getting DirecTV to understand and believe that I had a built-in receiver and not one of theirs. They asked for the serial number, access card number, etc. After sending me a new card (the one that came with the set was NG) and spending more time convincing, they finally were able to get it working. And it works great. I love the banner info/logos (I never got that with cable or OTA). The only problem is that the new HD channels on DirecTV won't come in, even with the in-line converter installed. I may end up canceling the RCA receiver and just using the HR-20.

As I said, I've had no major problems, but a few minor annoyances irk me a little. For example, I've noticed that the picture via the component inputs is a bit overscanned compared with the OTA and built-in DirecTV, resulting in about an inch or so of the picture being cut off all around. It's not drastic, just annoying. Has anyone else noticed this?

Another annoyance was the occasional appearance of diagonal lines whenever I switched antenna inputs from OTA to cable. The lines only appeared on the NTSC picture, not ATSC. I had to switch back and forth until it would be OK. It still happens, but since I dumped cable, I don't switch much anymore, so I'm less annoyed.

I also hooked up external speakers to the taps on the back, since the built-in speakers leave a lot to be desired, especially in the bass range. They (or something) would buzz at certain frequencies and drive me nuts.

All in all, despite these minor annoyances, I'm still loving the ol' RCA F38310 HDTV. May she continue to serve me well into the future.

Glen

I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.

Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?

I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.

Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?
I'm writing this from work and don't have my RCA reomote in front of me, so this solution is from memory. with your TV set on one of the ota tuners, press the MENU (I think) button. A list of choices should appear: Picture Settings, Display Preferences, Channel Tuning, etc. Go to the "Personal Preferences" and click OK. a list of preference settings will appear. The top one is probably the PG setting culprit. Remove that preference setting and you should be good to go: R-ratings, X-ratings...bring 'em on! Remember: these driections are from memory and the actual nomenclature on the screen might differ.

select:
menu
profiles
TV Setup
select TV Ratings/movie/unrated and set all to "view"

select:
menu
profiles
TV Setup
select TV Ratings/movie/unrated and set all to "view"

Yep. That's what I meant. I think.

I read what you said,
and knew what you meant.

But the fact is your info's,
... not 100 percent. ;)

(couldn't resist! :) )

I read what you said,
and knew what you meant.

But the fact is your info's,
... not 100 percent. ;)

(couldn't resist! :) )

That's it. I'm never going to try to help anyone again...until the next time someone posts a question that I have a vague answer to.

I'm trying to adjust the overscan in component video, and I am frustrated. In several posts in this thread, people have said to press Channel Down, then DirecTV and TV on the remote to enter the Service mode. I tried it many ways, but it wouldn't work. Any help?

Glen

On the front panel (FPA) of the F38310 (you can't use the remote), simultaneously/quickly press the "CH-Down and DirecTV” buttons.

Be sure to be on "component video" mode first before making adjustments.

OK, it worked! Thanks. But now what?

The screen says Version number and P:0 V:0

How do I change the horizontal and vertical size?

http://www.manitoupark.com/public/f38310.asp

I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.

Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?

Those RCA Remotes that best buy sells well work with your t.v. A number of years ago I lost my remote. I went to best buy, purchased one for just a few bucks, put it in and it worked.

http://www.manitoupark.com/public/f38310.asp

Namtar (and RCA don),

I have that pub, but it doesn't help. Maybe it's too technical or is written for an advanced tech. I need more "Dick and Jane" directions. For example, I saw I can change the V: value with my remote's Volume control, but I couldn't change the P: value. And I don't even know what to change it to!

Can someone simplify it for me, such as:

1. On the remote, press X to change the horizontal width to XX.
2. Press X to change the vertical size to XX
3. Press X to Save changes and Exit.

Thanks.

Glen

I finally got my set hooked up, but a having some issues. I disabled SVM, and checked the caps, they're clean with no bulging. However, I get some horizontal interference in my picture like some weird lines that move up and down a bit near the upper portion of the screen.

Also, at the left hand side of the screen, there's a waviness to the picture in about a 1-2 inch area all the way up the screen.

It's a JX4. Does anyone know what would cause this? Could it be RF interference? I know my room is full of it. I'm feeding it 1080i HD from my cable box and Xbox 360; same problem with both. The DTV tuner in the tv has never been used, according to the previous owner.

Namtar (and RCA don),

I have that pub, but it doesn't help. Maybe it's too technical or is written for an advanced tech. I need more "Dick and Jane" directions. For example, I saw I can change the V: value with my remote's Volume control, but I couldn't change the P: value. And I don't even know what to change it to!

Can someone simplify it for me, such as:

1. On the remote, press X to change the horizontal width to XX.
2. Press X to change the vertical size to XX
3. Press X to Save changes and Exit.

Thanks.

Glen

To read the instructions closely, you will see that you need to enter a 'password'.

Instrument Alignment
When the service mode is first turned on use VOL + to
change the parameter number to 76, alignment security
code. Once a security code has been set, pressing CH ∧
will result in the following display:
Version Number: xx.xx P: XX V: XX
Where:
Version Number: xx.xx = Code Version
P: XX = Parameter Number
V: XX = Current Value
The CH ∧ and CH ∨ buttons can be used to change the
parameter number and the VOL + and VOL - buttons can
be used to change the value of the parameter selected.

TO change horizonal/vertical:

P:5
P:11

Be sure to write down values before making any changes.

Doom5,

"weird lines" at the top of the screen could be VBI info due to underscanning. horizonal positioning can resolve.

"waviness" on the sides is an inherent problem with F38310's called "barrel roll". Can't be fixed. This is more prevalent with 480i stretched or 480p widescreen sources. Adjusting to overscan around 5% can help reduce the annoyance on the sides.

The one feature I hadn't used until about six months ago was the built-in DirecTV. I also bought an HR-20 but had the tech run a third line for the RCA. The only problem is that the new HD channels on DirecTV won't come in, even with the in-line converter installed.
Glen
That's because the RCA tuner only works for MPEG-2 HD satellite signals which are on channels 70-89. The new HD channels are in MPEG-4, and can only be received by H20/21 or HR20/21 receivers. Since you have an HR20, I assume you are receiving these channels through it. I used the internal DirecTV receiver for years, but once the new satellite was operational, I switched to an HR20 for satellite and OTA, and keep the RCA input set to Component.

To read the instructions closely, you will see that you need to enter a 'password'.

TO change horizonal/vertical:

P:5
P:11

Be sure to write down values before making any changes.

For McGlentosh:

Unless you enter 76 in the value for parameter 00, no changes will be effective. In addition to P:05, width adjustment, and P:11, vertical size, you may want/need to adjust:

P:04 Horizontal Position
P:07 Pincushion (parabola)
P:08 Trapezoid
P:09 Top corners (pincushion)
P:10 Vertical position (coarse)
P:13 Vertical position (fine)

As Namtar says, make sure to write down the original settings before making any changes, so you can change things back if the picture looks worse. New values are written as you change them. To exit service mode, press INFO on the remote.

Namtar/jbraden,

Thank you both. I will try this when I get home. I am nervous I will screw something up. I will make sure I write down the values first.

Glen

THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU! It worked, and now the logos are not cut off on my HD channels. One thing, though, I may have screwed up. I accidentally adjusted P:06 (Width 9151 Ref) before I realized I wasn't on P:05. I think I got it back by eyeball, but I'd like to know what the original value was. Does anyone know?

Thanks again, guys.

Glen

I posted this a couple weeks ago, but maybe it got missed in my long post, figure it was worth asking again incase anyone can help me.

I can't figure out is how to remove analog stations from the up/down list. For example I get channel 7 analog and 7-1/7-2/7-3 digital, but it doesn't seem there is a way to remove the analog when a HD channel maps to the same place. For example, if I'm watching 5-1 and push up, it goes to 7, I have to push up again to get to 7-1. I just wanna go straight from 5-1 to 7-1 by pushing channel up (there's no channel 6 here).

I'd also like to be able to remove specific subchannels on digital channels and keep others, but it doesn't seem this is possible at all, am I right?

Even more WOW...I just discovered the undocumented off-air guide feature that maps the UHF digital channel to the VHF, e.g., 28-1 jumps to 4-1 (WNBC-DT). Before, 28-1 would not come in.

I've discovered another quirk, however, and this one concerns powering on. Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?

Glen

P.S. - After seven years, I just discover new tweaks to make my set even better. Amazing. This forum is GREAT!

I posted this a couple weeks ago, ....., but it doesn't seem this is possible at all, am I right?

You are right. ;)

The only solution to "skip" unwanted channels is to disable "off-air guides" and delete the undesirable "real" channel numbers. The drawback is that the digital channels will not be re-mapped to the 'virtual' channels (analog counterparts).

Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?
You're probably not using the right TV code in your DirecTV remote for the RCA 38310. I received an RC64R remote with my HR20 receiver and found TV code 11953 works well for that remote.

I guess I wasn't clear in what I was asking. The TV has a code locking me out from being able to change any parental settings or even enter the time/date menu. Its a 4 digit code. I do not know the code and leaving the TV unplugged for a long time does not remove it. Is there a battery inside I can pull or something?

Have you tried a code that grandpa may have used that "he" wouldn't forget? Year he was born, birthdate, phone number, anniversary..etc?

You're probably not using the right TV code in your DirecTV remote for the RCA 38310. I received an RC64R remote with my HR20 receiver and found TV code 11953 works well for that remote.


I just had DirecTV install an HD DVR and deactivated the internal DTV receiver, and I had the same problem. Code 11953 fixed it ! Thanks.

Even more WOW...I just discovered the undocumented off-air guide feature that maps the UHF digital channel to the VHF, e.g., 28-1 jumps to 4-1 (WNBC-DT). Before, 28-1 would not come in.

I've discovered another quirk, however, and this one concerns powering on. Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?

Glen

P.S. - After seven years, I just discover new tweaks to make my set even better. Amazing. This forum is GREAT!


I know there is a way to do it, I have done it, although I got a new set in November & my 38310 is in the other room unplugged.

If I recall, I used the Info, Menu-OK and right side of volume (plus)

Then in that menu that pops up go to channel hold->press the right arrow so the "tune to" box is highlighted

Press the OK button on the remote until "DIRECTV" is the choice

then go down to the box below & press the OK button on the remote until "after 5 min." is the choice

then scroll down to "Clear" & hit OK on the remote NOT DONE??? don't ask me why

then exit out of the menu, what ever input it was on when you turned off the TV will be what it is on when you turn it back on.

Also make sure the remote is set to TV, hold your hand over the eye & hit TV or you will not be able to move the choices around with the remote.

PS I went in & pluged in the TV because this was very frustrating to me, my sat box was connected to the component inputs & everytime I turned on the TV it was on VID1 input.

If this doesn't work pm me & I will check again on how to do it.


Jordan

I guess I wasn't clear in what I was asking. The TV has a code locking me out from being able to change any parental settings or even enter the time/date menu. Its a 4 digit code. I do not know the code and leaving the TV unplugged for a long time does not remove it. Is there a battery inside I can pull or something?

There are plenty of replacement remotes on ebay w/ the who button

Ebay link doesn't work - search for "f38310 remote"

http://www.remotes.com/remotes/servlet/rs?a=gmi&smodel=F38310&brand_pn=RCA_F38310&mode=large&v=1&uid=A12007811582021


This remote was used on many rca & proscan tv's

Also where are you located, if you live in the Seattle area you can borrow my remote, or if you have a learning remote send it my way & I will teach your remote my "who" button, you should really get that fixed as this is a great set

Does this TV have a variable dot pitch? The focus/clarity on the corners isn't nearly as good as the center of the screen. My hitachi 36" HDTV doesn't seem to have this problem.

Is this just a flaw with the tube, or can this be fixed/adjusted in the service menu?