I just ran the self-test/diagnostics on my 7 year old F38310(46,491 hours!) and other than a message which says "Card Error" it passed with flying colors.

Any significance to the "Card Error" message? :confused:

Used with HD cable(component) box it gives terrific image quality. I also play DVD's upsampled with with a DVDO iScan HD(superb -who needs Blu-Ray?).

-Chas
p.s. What's all this about defeating VSM (Velocity Scan Modulation??) :confused:

I don't think that your 61515 hours is watching hours, its powered time, and not powered on time but just the time it has been plugged into the electrical outlet.

The fans, hmmm, you know in the years I have had mine, I never noticed the fans, mine was about 4 or so feet from a wall and also had some stuff behind it, maybe this muffled the sound, even with the computers off down here I never heard any of the fans.

Well I just moved mine to a new house the other day, its in an unfinished basement about 6 or so inches from the concrete wall and man is it LOUD. On or off it doesn't seem to matter, its just as loud off.
I did take the cover off it when I got it moved and man was it dusty, used a couple cans of compressed air to clear it out.

I too would like to change out that fan, see if it can be made quieter, but I am going to try putting some carpet on the wall behind it just to see what it will do.

I doubt you would want to disconnect the fan in the HD tuner, most likely it will alow the unit to overheat and you would be SOL and have to buy a newer crappier picture TV.

Well, my F38310 JX4 (made in March 2001) is still going strong and running flawlessly - I just checked the odometer tonight, and have logged 61515 hours (thats a lot of TV!) and the picture is just as smooth and fabulous as ever. I've got the matching stand, and use a Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD player, a Pioneer DV-563A Uni-player (for DVD-Audio and SACD), and an original Xbox, which puts out beautiful 1080i for a handful of games. All run through an Impact Acoustics 3x1 1080i powered component switcher to the RCAs single component input.

The F38310 is fabulous with these sources, and the system works well together - about the best 1080i system around. Interestingly, the Toshiba is smart enough to use both the HDMI (for LPCM sound) and the component outputs for video at the same time - pretty cool! And HD-DVD never bothered to enable the component lock-outs, so it's sweet HD picture for HD-DVD sources. (However, it won't upconvert standard DVDs over component - bummer)

Only real negative to the system is the darned sealed box fan, which just won't turn off, and is as quiet as a small tornado after 8 years - I'm still looking for advice on how to kill that one fan (there are three inside the F38310) as its the only one which stays on permanently. Simple solution is to crank up the HT sound (!) and put the TV on a switchable plug.

Oh yeah, the other negative is that this beast is 216lbs, so it'll never move from its current spot, unless it's to the dumpster.

Still, I contend that this TV is the high water mark of 80 years of CRT technology - there's never been one better or more sophisticated, and there never will be - sort of a last, best example of the species. They should put one in the Smithsonian (provided they disconnect the friggin' fan).

Does anyone have the service manual on CD that they could share?

Thanks

dozercsx: There is a device that enables you to upconvert DVD's thorough your RCA's component inputs. It's the HDFury II. Just put that name into an internet search engine. I ordered mine through the Curt Palme website. It's a $200 item plus the cost of an HDMI cable but, to me, it was worth it. The increase in picture quality is substantial when it's placed between my sony DVD player and the component inputs of my F38310. The cost was and is worth it to me because I'm no longer in any hurry at all to pop for a new TV and a Blu-ray player. Besides, I remain convinced that I'd have to get one of the all-but-disappeared Pioneer plasmas to match or eclipse the picture quality of my RCA....nearly nine years of trouble-free performance by the way.

I have been having problems with several DVD's over the last few months when there are bright scenes (such as scenes where there are explosions). It happened with the recent Transformer movie and Star Trek. The picture shrinks on the left & right sides and there are black "tears" protruding from the top left and right. Some times the picture will even go black for several seconds when this happens. It happened frequently on these two DVD's. I haven't tried another DVD player yet but if it were the DVD player why would it only happen on the bright scenes?

Sounds like power supply or power board is getting sick. ;)
Try lowering the "contrast" and see if it helps. But... it may only be a temporary fix if my guess is correct. Get ready for either a repair or a new TV. ;)

Sounds like power supply or power board is getting sick. ;)
Try lowering the "contrast" and see if it helps. But... it may only be a temporary fix if my guess is correct. Get ready for either a repair or a new TV. ;)

Are there any other references to this issue in the thread. I have not seen any but it is a long thread. I am not sure it has happens on regular programing either from DishNetwork or Cablevision but I think the screen went black several times and I thought it was a scene cut.

I have been looking at televisions but I wanted to be sure this one was on its way out. I can put it in the garage/den (partially converted) but it won't be used. Its too big to be put in any other room.

I am considering purchasing this Toshiba LCD Regza 55SV67OU. The one listed here is the 46" model.

http://www.hometheatermag.com/flat-panels/toshiba_regza_46sv670u_lcd_hdtv/index.html

I was hoping the RCA would last until the 3D sets come out next year.

Are there any other references to this issue in the thread. I have not seen any but it is a long thread. I am not sure it has happens on regular programing either from DishNetwork or Cablevision but I think the screen went black several times and I thought it was a scene cut.

Are all sources using the "component" input of the TV?
Are you using a switch?
What is make/model of the DVD player?
How is it connected?
And... did you know that each input of the TV has an independant video setting?

I know this is a long thread and I don't recall anyone else having these symptoms with an F38310. But, based on your description, I'd suspect the issue(s) suggested above.

Reduce "contrast" on that particular input and see if it helps (for the time being).

Well I have moved to another house, the tv is set up and hooked to the OTA, doing scans with the antenna pointed in different directions the tv shut off on me once and another time it looked like it turned off so I hit the power button and it turned off then I turned it on and it continued where it left off.

Sounds like the beginning of the power supply problems?

I got this unit used and it has not given me any problems in 3 or 4 years I have had it. I doubt I can get a new board at this time so I am looking for exact part numbers on the board, maybe some good pictures of the parts that need to be replaced and the values of the parts I need to get. Is there a spot on the board that I can measure the voltage to see if it is out of wack? Any pictures of yours after you fixed the supply, added heatsinks?

When I moved it I took the cover off and man was it dusty, I blew it as clean as I could with canned air and sucked it up with a vacuum as I went. I would really like to keep using this unit as I haven't seen anything new that has as nice a picture, well the new LED units are nice blacks but way to costly up here in the great white north of Canada.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Wish I had come back here a month or so ago and I would have picked up jawzzy's tv for parts as I can't be any more than 30 minutes from where he lives.

I suggest you start simple.
Disconnect the antenna. Power up the TV. Does it stay on?
Connect a DVD player. Does it stay on?

The reason I suggest this...
I had one digital channel that always shutdown the TV (for unknown reason). Deleted that channel, no more issues.
Secondly, (and it hasn't happened for a while) I had a similar symptom where only one channel and only that channel (KYW) would occasionally cause the TV to power down for no reason.

I've had the TV since 2002.

i was wondering if their a member here that owns this set and the 8g pioneer kuro? i'v seen some pictures of the rca f38310 but dont know who it is.

also mine is for sale as its only collecting dust and taking space... no flaws what so ever make an offer and im assuming its going to be localy since it weights a ton.


Well ya this message is old but I know when I was in a local shop here and they found out I had this tv the service tech wasn't sure what tv it was the salesmen was talking about so he says to him, remember that $40,000 plasma we had sitting beside that big RCA? He say ya that's the plasma we had to move to the other side of the store becasue the RCA made it look like S(CRAP)T. Salesman says ya that's the one, and they both said it has an amazing picture.

Ya its an old post but man you have the direct unit sitting right one top of the xbox, the direct unit has no airflow through it, you are blocking the bottom of it. I had a buddy that had his sitting on top of a echostar 6000 HD unit and his direct unit started to act up, it would loose all signal and even the picture would go funny on it. Well checked dish alingment but it was fine, checked a few other things and it was fine. Took the unit out and DAMN the card was brown it had gotton so hot in there, also found a cable that was bad, when I moved it the signal popped back up.

All these things need to be open on the bottom and top to keep them cool.

Matt, the Switch Box from RS is Catalogue #15-1927. It works like a champ... See photos. The box is fairly old and has been bastardized by me but I keep it behind everything. One thing it was subject to was changing the switch selection when I was tuning a channel in on the TV... I didn't like that so I moved it to where the RF doesn't interfere.

The theater component stand I made up using a kitchen table purchased from Ikea and also a smaller shelf unit (from Ikea) that I have under the table. It holds all the components nicely. What I've done as you can see in the photo is put black cardboard on the lower front, sides and rear... it really hides all the cables my wife complained about seeing so often. I think it looks okay and it was a really low cost dress up.

Yesterday I was going to hook up the PS3 (BluRay) to my F38310 but noticed that the PS3 has no Component output nor does the F38310 have the HDMI input. So, for now, the PS3 stays in the bedroom with the 1080P Aquos. Oh well.

UPDATE: Okay, I swapped the two boxes and the noise is GONE. I put the noisy box in the bedroom on the Aquos and the picture is perfect. With the HDDVR tuner in the livingroom on the F38310 the picture is noise free. Amazing. I'll swap them back AFTER I remove all the surrounding components (Sony Surround receiver, XBOX360, etc)... They never affected the picture before; I can't imagine what changed. Maybe the newer DVR has better internal shielding against noise and/or ground loops.

I use the remote for the tv and it goes to the last input used.

I think what you have done is programmed in a direct code to the remote instead of an RCA tv code, so give another RCA code a try.

I've got 2 of them and they are wonderful once adjusted properly.


You could do that. I run the component cables from the D* box straight to the TV. I also run analog audio wires straight to the TV and a digital audio cable to the receiver. That way, I only need the receiver when I want the good sound. I don't need or use the receiver for just normal TV.


That's just how it is.


AFAIK, it's a problem. I know of no way to get it to turn on and immediately listen to the new external D* receiver. It always goes to the built-in RCA-100 receiver and reports a weak signal because that receiver is not hooked up to anything. As best I can tell, using the D* remote, you have to press the "TV input" button several times until the TV cycles through all its inputs and eventually gets to the component inputs which appears to be the very last one. I set up the TV so that the component input is set to the "DVD" button on the TV's remote. That way, after I turn everything on with the D* remote, I then use the TV remote once (just to press the "DVD" button) and then use the D* remote for everything else. (I don't know if you can associate the component inputs with a button other than DVD. Maybe you can, I just never tried it because my DVD players are hooked up to other TV's.)

There might be a better solution, but I don't know what it is.


I think you can get most of the benefit by using one of the DVD's intended for that purpose. The 2 leading ones appear to be AVIA II (get AVIA II, not the 1st version) and Digital Video Essentials. It's a lot cheaper to do that, and the result is excellent according to my eyeballs.

You don't need both of the DVD's, either one will do. I like the AVIA best, but some other folks like the other one best. It probably doesn't matter which one you use.

I noticed about 10 years ago when looking for a larger screen tv, 32 inch that 9 times out of 10 when I checked the settings on the sets that the brightness and contrast but mostly the brightness I think it was where turned up almost all the way, when I turned them down the picture wasn't so nice. Finally settled on a 32 inch RCA but was having trouble with it, managed to get the tech out here once and that was it he didn't come again no matter how many times I called and complained, turned out that someone that used to work there told me that after I have it for so many days I wouldn't be able to get a refund so I called and told them to come and get it today and have a certified check with them or it would end up going through the front window of the shop, it was picked up. But again so many had the brightness turned up so high but this RCA didn't need to be turned to TORCH mode. But I can tell you if you are anywhere past the halfway mark on the bar you are turned up way too high. I can't check my settings as the tv isn't here its at my other place which has no internet yet.

I have been having problems with several DVD's over the last few months when there are bright scenes (such as scenes where there are explosions). It happened with the recent Transformer movie and Star Trek. The picture shrinks on the left & right sides and there are black "tears" protruding from the top left and right. Some times the picture will even go black for several seconds when this happens. It happened frequently on these two DVD's. I haven't tried another DVD player yet but if it were the DVD player why would it only happen on the bright scenes?

Its the only time it has ever done this, I had the antenna pointed towards what I was hoping was Rochester New York and was doing some other things in the basement when I realized that the quick scan should be finished, I went to the tv and it was off, I never bothered trying to scan it again.

I have a Panasonic SAHE100 receiver that goes to the component inputs on the tv, it is being feed with a powered 3 input switch which is feed by an upconverting JVC dvd player, a toshiba HD DVD player and an old Sony Bluray, all worked fine when I was over there today.

I suggest you start simple.
Disconnect the antenna. Power up the TV. Does it stay on?
Connect a DVD player. Does it stay on?

The reason I suggest this...
I had one digital channel that always shutdown the TV (for unknown reason). Deleted that channel, no more issues.
Secondly, (and it hasn't happened for a while) I had a similar symptom where only one channel and only that channel (KYW) would occasionally cause the TV to power down for no reason.

I've had the TV since 2002.

One thing I noticed when I managed to get this tv hooked up to cable is that I set it to scan cable channels, well now that I have my OTA hooked I set it to antenna, well on a full scan it is supposed to start with antennea A which is cable then antenna B which is my CM4228. It says when doing a full scan it will decide what each antenna is hooked up to and scan accordingly, well it found cable channels but nothing over channel 69 and I know there where a few that where over that so who knows.

Are all sources using the "component" input of the TV?
Are you using a switch?
What is make/model of the DVD player?
How is it connected?
And... did you know that each input of the TV has an independant video setting?

I know this is a long thread and I don't recall anyone else having these symptoms with an F38310. But, based on your description, I'd suspect the issue(s) suggested above.

Reduce "contrast" on that particular input and see if it helps (for the time being).

The DVD player I am using with it is a Panasonic DMR-EZ27. I purchased it in January of 2008. It is an upconverting DVD player and recorder with an HDMI output. I am using the component to connect it to a swithbox with 6 component inputs. The switch box is made by Impact Acoustics, model 40697 and it has a remote. Each component input has its own audio. I have the component output going to the RCA and one optical audio going to my stereo.

I found out that the problem is not with the RCA but with the DVD player. I hooked up another DVD player, and old Panasonic DVD A320 and the problem did not occur. However the old player output a squashed letterbox (anamorphic) image and I had to use one of the expanded modes on the RCA. At this point I don't know if the up conversion of the EZ27 is causing the problem or if the EZ27 is developing a tracking issue. It did not start happening until about two months ago. Apparently the brightness was just coincidence. Both of the DVD titles that I mentioned had a lot of explosions.

It looks like I will have to get another DVD player. Any suggestions on a DVD player that can be paired with this one. Is it best to get one that will output an anamorphic image or one that will upconvert?

I'm posting here because I'm giving away my 38310 next week to a friend. And wanted to see what other peoples experiences have been with this set. So, what an apt thread! It has been an awesome set for me - and I don't think there is another television with a better HD picture to this day. It does well with SD as well. I paid $3,290 for it with a 5 year warranty. Shucks! Never used the warranty.
I just purchased a new Panasonic Plasma 54" Looking forward to having some HDMI inputs. And hope the picture is acceptable. It seems to be one of the best pictures out there on a flat panel.

So, I've been a lucky F38310 owner - I hope it arrives at his house working since he had to round up 3 other guys to help him move it!

... well it found cable channels but nothing over channel 69 .
The RF input is set to "air" not "cable" if it stops ar channel 69. Cable should scan to channel 125.

Set each input manually and then perform a full scan.

Any suggestions on a DVD player that can be paired with this one. Is it best to get one that will output an anamorphic image or one that will upconvert?

Any progressive scan DVD player should work and provide 16:9 aspect ratio (when properly setup). An upconverting DVD player is not necessary since they will not upscale to 1080i when using component.

Today is a said day in the house, I have to trash my old RCA monitor style TV, its the old 27 inch with the silver buttons across the front top of it, has loads of inputs and outputs on the back of it, has that HUGE remote that will control other RCA stuff and has the channels programmed into the remote instead of the tv. Its getting a little dim compared to the 38310 and the colours a little off, but damn it has been on almost every day from about 8 or 9 am to midnight or later for the last 12 or 13 years, and it saw a lot of use also before that.
We bought it new in 1985, it has served us well, I hate to see it go but I just have no room for it at the new place.

Sorry to hear your sadness... but it really shouldn't be in the F38310 thread. ;)

Any progressive scan DVD player should work and provide 16:9 aspect ratio (when properly setup). An upconverting DVD player is not necessary since they will not upscale to 1080i when using component.

The Panasonic-EZ27 that I am using with the RCA is not broken. I had to change a setting. I am not sure why this is happening on some DVD's and not others. In the instructions under "Television Type", I had the Toshiba set to 16:9 and 480P (progressive). I changed the setting to 16:9 and 480i (interlaced). Now the issue has been resloved. I am not having that jagged black "tear" bloom out the right and left of the screen. Sometimes it would be followed by the screen going black for about three seconds. I thought since the RCA could display 480p or 1080i that the setting on the Toshiba should have been 480p.

Can you proved any explanation?

Nope... 480p should work just dandy.

Oh well, I guess it doesn't matter. The RCA should display it in 480p. Thank you Ratman. I doubt this will happen to anyone else. Its probabaly some thing unique to the settings on the Toshiba.

Service# F38310YX5
Model# F38310
Serial# C263C40FH
Chasis# DTV306GCC

This is a SAT Receiver and power supply module (DM-1) and/or (Part# 250660) from an RCA 38" WS; Model F38310, and chassis DTV306. The unit was never connected to a dish [Cable antenna A/B only]. This is PART(S) only which sells online from $125, or $900 to $1,400, when you can find it.

Depending on where you search this DM-1 and # 250660 is described as the SAT module or/and the IC board situated to the left (rear view).

A&E technician certified on 12/09/2009, Service #: 82791498.

REFERENCES:

Manufacturer Part#: 250660
Manufacturer: RCA (THOMSON)
Description: CIRCUIT, DMA-DTV306/307

4.ued.net/ued/searchResults.do Description above.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Manufacturer

Part Number 250660
Part Number Variations NLA
nla
Description NLA
Your Price $957.89

encompassparts.com/models/?RCA&start=5401 Description above
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cir Number: 250660 Substitution: 250660R Backordered

searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=PS34000JX1&productCategoryId=0333100&brandId=1262&modelName=DIGITAL-TV&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=50019406 Description above.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

DM-1
Part Number: 250660 | SKU: 18735432
See all models that use this part
Availablity: Usually ships in 1 business day Top of Form $141.9

partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?x=34&y=7&PartNumber=250660 Description Above
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Junction cables for I/C board, DMA(DCT100?) Reciever, Fan, and chassis mounts available.

Images upon request. [Not sure this is the proper venue, but must start somewhere]

Picked up my RCA JX4 unit on ubid in Dec of '01 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. A couple of weeks ago I picked up another TV for the living room and my son and I set this monster on a piece of cardboard and slowly slid it downstairs to our rec room.

The fan noise had never really bothered me in it's former location, but in the silent rec room it was LOUD. So I sprung for the SAMs servive manual to see about replacing it. Was fairly easy to pop open the cover and remove the screws to to DM-1 unit. The always on fan sits in a plastic frame directly below the DM-1. It's a simple 2" 12V fan.

Trucked over to Radio Shack but they didn't have any 2" fans. They did have a 1-1/2", so I bought that instead. To make the fan spin slower and quieter, I added a 100 ohm resister. After carving a form in a piece of styrofoam to make it fit, I popped the fan in and put it all back together.

Now it's not audible at all, and it's probably getting better airflow now, since I blew the DM-1 out with compressed air.

Hope to get several more years of use out of this before it dies on me.:)

F38310YX5 in perfect working condition, purchased in 2001. Comes with a matching cabinet. Anyone in DC Metro area want to buy, let me know. Local pickup only. Make me an offer.

Replacing with Plasma....

My 38" RCA HDTV is for sale and available for pickup in the San Diego area. Excellent condition, unused for the last 4 years, always performed flawlessly with no repairs. Will demonstrate the beautiful picture at time of pickup. Please PM, buyers only.

Bought mine in '02 from CC for $1200 with the base, gave it to my daughter and her hubby about 2 years ago when I bought a Sammy 50" plasma.
The good ole RCA has been going strong in their living room ever since, this set has never skipped a beat since it was new,the PQ is still good and it is used everyday,this has been a good TV and I think it was well worth it.

I live in the Maryland suburbs between Baltimore and Washington, D.C. I still use my F38310 TV, which has never given me a single problem since I got it in the summer of 2001. When I got the set, it came with the matching stand, but I never used it and it has been sitting in its original box in my basement storage room for almost a decade. I have never even taken it out of the box.

Well, I need the space, so I just want to get rid of the stand. If you can come pick it up, it's yours. I can help you lug it up the stairs and out to your vehicle. My wife will be thrilled to have that box out of our house.

Message me if you're interested.

Wife is remodeling our den and has demanded my perfectly working F38310 must go. If you're in the RI or sourrounding area and can use it give me a shout at rhl1@aol.com

Ray: here's hoping you find a good and deserving home for your F38310. I also trust that the wife agreed to a replacement that delivers the same picture quality as your RCA, which narrows it down to a choice of two: a new Pioneer plasma or a slightly-used Pioneer plasma. As for me, my RCA will go when they pry the remote from my cold, dead hands. My set is in its ninth year of service with nary a glitch.

I felt the same way but "Happy Wife" = "Good Life". I have a 42" LG Plasma that is equal to the RCA but that is staying in the living room. The den is getting a 60"

I kept my 8 year old F38310 and mounted my wife over the fireplace. :)

You do mean "positioned", don't you?

I kept my 8 year old F38310 and mounted my wife over the fireplace. :)

In the long run it would be cheaper...LOL

You do mean "positioned", don't you?

Either way it's an idea.....:D

Well my trusty F38310 is back from the dead. About a year ago it died, Sears tried to fix it, sent the chassis to PTS twice, came back supposedly in top condition. They decided it was a bad yolk and DM'd the set. They were supposed to pick it up but I negotiated a better replacement price from them and told them I'd dispose of the set.

Anyway it sat in the basement playroom for a year, dark and lonely. I scoured CL for a near by parts donor and missed a few, but last week I hit pay dirt. Got a twin with a bad power supply or something for $50. Popped my good chassis into the set, took maybe 35 minutes, and voila it lives! Spent a few hours tweaking it, reducing the overscan that was really bad to 2% or so, got the geometry a bit better too, need to spend some more time working on the focus, the twin controls are a pain to use.

It looks pretty good, but to be honest all my plasmas beat it by a wide margin now. What I found was surprising is how close the Warm picture setting is to the look of my Pro calibrated Plasma, gray scale seems to track quite well, out of the box, so to speak...

Anyone have any tips for getting the focus peaked? Best test pattern?

We have had our F38310 since 2002 and until now it has been super! The screen image has just collapsed to a 1/4 screen tall full width strip from 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the tube. You can see the part of the picture that normally would have been in that position, and scan lines at top and bottom of that frame, but dark at the top half and bottom quarter of the picture tube. Guys, any suggestions?

I'm pretty good with the electronics, not at all shy about testing, and can make component level replacements if I know were to look. I have the SAMS for the set. I've checked for any discolored parts, or obvious trouble areas but everything looks good, no bulging caps, etc. Maybe a vertical scan problem? Can't read out the self diagnosis as you only get a part of the picture. Sound is fine, all else seems normal. If I know where to look or have a part to replace we're probably back in business, but this is the first time I've even needed to take the cover off the set.

I'd love to get her back working but the budget is tight. As far as I know the picture tube is great, and probably all but one of the circuit boards are fine too. We are in Denver. If anyone has some parts that might fix it let me know, otherwise does anyone in the Denver area want the set? The SAMS? Thanks,:mad: Dave.

Unfortunatley my f38310 is not doing well anymore. I purchased this one from CC back in 2003 and it has been running flawlessly until last month.

Now it sometimes shuts off on its own, and when I turn it back on it cycles on/off quickly 3 or 4 times then turns off completely. I dont have the expertise to repair it on my own and have not been able to find parts or a service manual available anywhere.

So Im thinking of selling it as is if anyone is interested. I am in the St Louis Missouri area. Let me know if you have any interest.

I have two of them that are still fine.

Hello everybody :)

Recently my F38310 has no picture or sound, the on light comes on and so does the fans. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everybody :)

Recently my F38310 has no picture or sound, the on light comes on and so does the fans. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.Bought mine used 4 years ago with stand, last week it started the same thing. If you run your arm on the screen you will find the tube makes the hair on your arm stand up. No obvious failures of components. Closely examined the PCBs and see nothing unusual. I am going to pull a couple of choice components and test them. Looks like tomorrow I purchase a 50 inch plasma to replace it. :cool:

Oh yes....couple of months ago the odo showed 58,000 hours

When I pulled the DM-1 board out of my set for a better look I found something interesting. There is a capacitor soldered across the CR 14108 diode. Can anyone tell me if that is normal?Only a year old post.....my CR14108 has the same mod done and it is done nicely. I also found that the CR14105 has also been replaces as it was put on the underside of the PCB:eek: I guess it was easier to put in place.

John

Picked up my RCA JX4 unit on ubid in Dec of '01 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. A couple of weeks ago I picked up another TV for the living room and my son and I set this monster on a piece of cardboard and slowly slid it downstairs to our rec room.

The fan noise had never really bothered me in it's former location, but in the silent rec room it was LOUD. So I sprung for the SAMs servive manual to see about replacing it. Was fairly easy to pop open the cover and remove the screws to to DM-1 unit. The always on fan sits in a plastic frame directly below the DM-1. It's a simple 2" 12V fan.

Trucked over to Radio Shack but they didn't have any 2" fans. They did have a 1-1/2", so I bought that instead. To make the fan spin slower and quieter, I added a 100 ohm resister. After carving a form in a piece of styrofoam to make it fit, I popped the fan in and put it all back together.

Now it's not audible at all, and it's probably getting better airflow now, since I blew the DM-1 out with compressed air.

Hope to get several more years of use out of this before it dies on me.:)

Any pics or instructions on how to do this?

Thanks

My old friend is finally starting to act its age.
A few nights ago it started going thru a cycle of "program guide, select, rinse, repeat" until I couldn't take it any more and pulled the plug.
As of last night it was much better, but still did it 5 or more times within a few minutes.
It's almost like the "ok" button on the remote is stuck (it's not- I pulled the batteries out to no avail)
What it does is bring up the menu screen, then goes to program guide, then selects the channel I'm currently viewing.
Sometimes I can halt the cycle if I press "clear" or exit on the remote; sometimes the remote doesn't seem to do anything.
I should add that I am watching OTA exclusively, having long since left directv and canceled cable.
This problem is similar to the dreaded "on/off" cycle I've read about, but not nearly so drastic. It's also the first real persistent problem this tv has given me in the almost 8 years I've owned it.
If I had extra cash I would go for a 50" plasma, but I'm hoping to get a few more months (at least) out of her.
Any suggestions?

Any pics or instructions on how to do this?

Thanks

I should've taken pictures but didn't at the time. This thing is a bear to work on, hard enough just to get it moved away from the wall.

But I will be opening it up again. Seems the Radio Shack fan doesn't like to run 24x7 and now it's beginning to make noise. :mad:
I'll be taking it apart later this summer (it's not a high priority project) and putting a better quality fan in it's place.

Put a fork in 'er; she's done.
As of tonight, she won't turn on. The fans are still running, but neither the top buttons nor the remote can power her up. No click, no nothing.
I'm eyeing a 50" LG plasma, so it's out with the old and in with the new.
Hats off to a great champ. 8 years of crt HD goodness.

hey guys- after all these years i finally realized i could map the buttons on the RCA remote which in turn allowed me to learn discrete codes for my harmony remote i have dvd button as component on the remote and see i can map the buttons for vcr1 and vcr2 - but that's it. how can i map the AUX button? i'm trying to map the FRONT input to that button - or similar. any ideas?

If anyone in south Florida Coral Springs area wants my old friend for parts they can have her for free. I'd rather a fellow user take her than a landfill.
I will hold onto it for another week or so.

Hi all F38310 fans!
Bought mine in 2001 and it finally gave up the ghost. I repaired it once, and planned to do it again, but life got in the way. :)
Never used the DirectTV receiver, so don't know it's status. I think the issue is in the power supply section (not the HV portion).
I have the custom TV stand for it, and the Thomson ESI Service Data CD.
Any interest? Located in St. Louis.

Hi

I just switched from Direct tv to comcast cable and now notice a light green bar of color 3" wide, floating from the bottom to the top of the screen...hmm.

Not THAT bad of a problem after all these years, but maybe a sign of thing to come?

Doesn't seem to matter the source, be it dvd, ota, or the cable, but most noticable with black and white images, and I like classic black and white movies.

Any suggestions?


Thanks

Any speakers or other magnets near the set?

Did the problem start after the cable was installed?
If you have a cable box, disconnect that completely from the TV.
If you don't have a cable box, disconnect the coax for the cable feed from the TV.

If problem stops with OTA and DVD sources, it's probably a "ground" problem with the cable feed.

No speakers, other than Bose surround sound which are shielded, and are three feet away. Moved 'em anyway to no avail.

It seems to make no difference unplugging the component cables from the box to the TV and viewing OTA and DVD sources.

The green band is barely noticable with a color picture, and only slightly on a black and white (the wife doesn't notice unless I point it out).

The cable installer said he would come back and replace the coax line from the pole to the house for free if I wanted to. I think I'll do that as the cable is years old, left over from a previous install... and he did say he would do it, no problem. Comcast service seems to have improved from the last time I had to deal with them. DTV was great, but I am saving a few bucks with the Comcast "triple play".

It seems to be the TV...too bad, as the beast has served me well, and I hate to think about moving 200 lbs, much less the cost of a comparable a new one.

Thanks guys. if anything else comes to mind...I'll be checking back.

Again I ask...
Did the problem appear ONLY after cable was installed?
Did you also remove the audio cables? Easier still... just remove the coax from the wall. ;)

When the cable guy comes to replace your coax, ask him to verify that it is properly grounded.

Ratman!

Uhh...I never noticed the "green line" with DTV, but I figured that with the change to cable, maybe I was looking at things more critically... But, I unhooked the Coax and the line is gone! Of course then I can't watch cable, but at least I know that it's not my trusty 'ol RCA.

I'll now call Comcast and get them out to change the coax and verify the ground as you suggested. I'll bet I'll be good to go for another nine years.
By that time I'll be able to get a 4D, virtual reality, full wall display!

I should have told him to just put in the new cable when he was here the first time, but it was getting to be late.

Thank you, thank you, thank you very much.

Oh well... I've lost a good friend! :(

My F38310 from 2002 has finally expired. started having problems powering up for a week or two. Last night, it just powered off and will not power up. Standby power is still on, but no picture/sound and just gives a little "sigh" when I hit the power button on the FPA.

Opened up the beast to look for obvious signs of leaky caps or burnt resistors/diodes to no avail. Even if I did, disassembly would be a major task and beyond my expertise (or patience). So... out to the stores to find a new TV.

If anyone locally (Collingswood, N.J./ Philly area) wants this TV, come and get it. It's free (with matching stand and service manual). IF not, hopefully the delivery guys will take it.

Ratman:

I feel your pain. We're about to lose as well. Because nobody has extended more insightful and knowledgable advice regarding the maintenance, repair and overall use of our 38310's than you have. Good luck with your new TV buying expedition. You might want to take a look into the Toshiba 670u full-array backlight local dimming LED-LCD. The 46" version is still available at walmart's website for under a grand. The 55" version
is available at Crutchfield's for about two grand; less at some other online retailers. It's the closest I seen to a reasonably-priced, seemingly glitch-free TV that matches or beats the picture quality of a 38310. The rapidly-disappearing Pioneers and the black level-challenged Panasonic plasmas are two other (albeit higher cost) possibilities as I'm sure you know.

How 'bout keeping us posted(literally) on the progress and final result of your search for a new TV? My set's still humming away and turning out a perfect picture after nine years plus a few months but it's only one popped capacitor away from extinction. It will be interesting to see what you select as a replacement for yours.

Sorry to hear that yours croaked.

I've got 2 of them, and both were doing fine until a month ago. While one is still great, the other one suffered something bad when a friend who was helping me move the behemoth put down his end too abruptly. Since then, when I try to turn it on, it cycles itself on-and-off about 20 times before leaving itself off. During its brief few seconds of on-ness, there is a narrow white line on the screen and nothing else. If anybody knows enough to diagnose the problem from this description, and comment upon the fix-ability, I would appreciate it...

How 'bout keeping us posted(literally) on the progress and final result of your search for a new TV?

You know... 10 years ago, deciding on an HDTV was pretty simple. I wanted the largest 16:9 CRT HDTV I could find. There was the Loewe, RCA and Proscan.

For the new purchase, I spent hours researching on the net, read reviews, compared prices... yada, yada. I think I'm well versed with the technology, but I am overwhelmed with the makes, models, features, pros/cons, etc. I"m too old for this stuff and have no patience. I have a better understanding what "newbies" go through now. :)

The only thing I know for sure is that every set has it's "cons". ;)

So as good or as bad as it is, I just purchased a Sharp LC46LE820UN. Comes tomorrow and I guess I'll be bitching on the LCD forum after a few days! :D

I have my fingers crossed and hope this set makes me as happy as my F38310 did over the years.

Good luck to the remaining F38310 owners. I'll still check in and try to help out as best I can.

I will miss "the beast".

And mine keeps rolling along, averaging ~4 hours/day of use. I sometimes find myself hoping it will die so I can get something lower power, and quieter. Something that supports 1080p, even though I really don't need that in this room.

OTOH, I dread removing it from its 4' high perch on a chest of drawers I had custom made to support its weight. :(

OTOH, I dread removing it from its 4' high perch on a chest of drawers I had custom made to support its weight. :(
Over the years I've had mine, I swear the things have gained weight... what used to be 186 lbs (or whatever it was) feels like about 300 lbs now...

Russ, sounds like a shorted yolk. I had the same problem a year ago. Had a service contract with Sears and they sent the chassis in a number of times and it always came back marked as fine. Mine had a white narrow vertical line, no deflection. Yolk is bonded to the picture tube so there is no option for replacement.

Now, the good thing about that is there are a few 38310s out there with the common power supply problem and I was able to pick one for $40. Swapped in my known good chassis and bingo! My 38310 has a new life.

In the mean time I moved it to the basement rec room, and replaced it with a great 50" plasma, the only thing out there that comes close to the great image the 38310 has. No LCD crap for me for serious watching....

Matt L:
Question about the "common power supply" problem you fixed on your 38310: Is the DM-1 power supply module the one you replaced on your set? If so, did you notice any sign or symptom of other damaged components that might have been caused by the DM-1's failure. Reason I ask is that my 38310 is moving toward the ten-year mark. I have a brand new DM-1 power supply module under wraps and sitting up in a closet. I'm still debating after all these years if I should install the new module now as a precaution or leave well enough alone until something in the old module fails.

As Sulu would say, "Oh my!"

The new Sharp looks great. I'm a happy camper.

Ratman:
That's great. Assuming your initial reaction is based on a comparison to your recently-deceased 38310, that's even greater. The Sharp 820 is an edge-lit, 120 hz unit, right?
Or is it a full-array backlight? Either way, it's already on my short list when my RCA joins yours in pixel heaven.

Yes... edge lit LED120Hz.

Only been "playing" for a few hours, but HD (cable) looks very good, SD... well ;)
Standard DVD's look great. HD-DVD looks wonderful.

Lot's of user level "tweaks" too.

It's not too soon to say (IMHO), this is a great improvement over the F38310.
(Even the wife was impressed, so that's something! :) )

Just so you know, the 810 is a tad less expensive. The only major difference is that the 820 has a glass screen. I opted for the glass screen because the grandson just loves to touch (and kiss) the screen. LCD panels aren't as forgiving as 216 lbs. of glass! LOL!

Matt L:
Question about the "common power supply" problem you fixed on your 38310: Is the DM-1 power supply module the one you replaced on your set? If so, did you notice any sign or symptom of other damaged components that might have been caused by the DM-1's failure. Reason I ask is that my 38310 is moving toward the ten-year mark. I have a brand new DM-1 power supply module under wraps and sitting up in a closet. I'm still debating after all these years if I should install the new module now as a precaution or leave well enough alone until something in the old module fails.

I had the power supply problem early on and it was fixed. Luckily it did not take anything else out when it went.

The last issue was no deflection, 1" wide white vertical bar. I solved it by pulling the guts out of a non working f38310 I got on Craig's list for $40. I took the chance that it died from a bad power supply, as so many have. I had a know good complete chassis. 10 to 15 minute job to swap out the chassis if you keep track of the various connections. I also went through the service menus and retweaked the settings for overscan, gray scale, color balance, centering and such as the yolk and picture tube was different. That took considerably longer...

As to swapping out your DM1 module, I'd say it's a toss up. Who is to say the new one won't go bad? I may be wrong but in reading this thread over the years I'm not aware of the DM1 unit doing any other damage when it fails. So perhaps leaving well enough alone is the router to take. I don't know.

Matt L:

Appreciate the fast response. I'm going to take the "leave well enough alone" approach and hope my set and its current power supply module gives me at least another year of use. I have a fairly high level of confidence (aka wishful thinking) that the 2011 Panasonic plasma offerings, with rising black levels eliminated, will make the prospect of replacing my 38310 a lot more bearable.

well, after many years of good service i'm thinking of replacing my rca - what'd you guys think i can get for it? also = anyone have trouble with the internal speakers? i have mine set up optical out but when i tried internal speakers they didn't work. could that be because of the optical out being used?

The going rate for a working 38310 appears to be $125-200 on Amazon or Craigslist, if you're willing to endure a nightmarish selling process. I think your best bet is asking 200-to-250 for it via bulletin boards or local newspapers right there in Deerfield or elsewhere in the north suburbs. There's simply not much of a market for 216 lb, 3-ft. deep TVs, no matter how much better the picture quality is compared to virtually all lcd's and most of the current plasmas.

p.s. That excludes your new Sharp, Ratman.

thanks- i tried looking on craigs list - didn't see any currently up for sale - thanks for the info--i have a neighborhood garage sale coming up - i may go that route.

what do you think my sound issue is?

Don't know about the audio problem because I haven't used my optical out since I moved to an A/V receiver setup. Can't you just remove the optical out setting and see if your internal speakers resume operation? If they don't, I'd guess a resistor or some other component in the audio section of the main board has failed.

I believe that there's a setting in the menu that turns off the internal speakers. Make sure they're enabled.

There's a switch that selects between internal and external speakers. You need to set it to INT if you want your internal speakers to work (and EXT if you're hooking up speakers directly to the tv).

also = anyone have trouble with the internal speakers? i have mine set up optical out but when i tried internal speakers they didn't work. could that be because of the optical out being used?

No. The optical out is independant of the internal/external speaker settings.
FWIW, my internal audio/speakers stopped working ~2 years ago. To me, it wasn't worth the expense to get repaired. Just used optical out till the F38310 completely died. If the previous recommendations don't work out for you, then you may have the same problem I had.

I guess the good thing is... I will probably see a nice reduction on my electric bill since I don't have to power "the beast" and an AVR now that I have a new TV. :D

thanks for the info - i forgot about the speaker switch on the back -however -nothing worked - switch on back or via settings. i guess my speakers crapped out too! i hope to sell it and i guess who buys it will have to go the av receiver route!

ok - i'm feeling stupid now- after trying all the above to get my internal speakers to work it finally dawned on me - i don't have any audio sources attached! i hooked up antenna - ran the scan and voila - sound! however, i noticed it was really really slow to tune the ota channels and actually inconsistent. wouldn't always tune a channel. if i remember correctly i'm better off NOT acquiring off air guides, correct? i also heard a loud clicking noise once in a while when trying to tune in a channel = any ideas what that is?

Off-air guides is better IMO. It properly "maps" the OTA real channels to the virtual channels.

Is tuning slow(er)? You bet. It's almost a 20 year old tuner/technology. Takes a while to sync up with the signal. Small price to pay for good picture quality IMO.

Inconsistency? Could be poor signal/antenna.

Clicking? From internal speakers or external audio device? FWIW, I never heard clicking when using an antenna for internal or external speakers.

Off-air guides is better IMO. It properly "maps" the OTA real channels to the virtual channels.

Is tuning slow(er)? You bet. It's almost a 20 year old tuner/technology. Takes a while to sync up with the signal. Small price to pay for good picture quality IMO.

Inconsistency? Could be poor signal/antenna.

Clicking? From internal speakers or external audio device? FWIW, I never heard clicking when using an antenna for internal or external speakers.

thanks for the quick reply - i'm looking to sell it and want to be sure i get it going best i can.
i thought i remember something along time ago about not getting the off air guides- i could be wrong. the clicking came (however inconsistently) after hooking up the OTA directly to the RCA - nothing else hooked up - no ext speakers.
i'm leaning to the inconsistency on the channel acquisition as the unit itself as i get perfect ota thru my dish receiver - always 90- 100% strength. maybe it just needs to warm up a bit!

Hi
I have had this set almost 10 years and still love it.
F38310 buttons on the top and cued up as if its pressing buttons all by itself. I suspect the top board assembly above the screen where the button and infrared receiver are are now faulty.

If anyone has the schematic for this or knows of this fault and how to fix it I sure would be very appreciative of any help.

I plan in pulling it tonight and looking for bad solder joints but other than that I am not sure what else to do. If you have this part lying button assembly scrap I would be interested in buying it from you.

cheers
Jim nashjt@gmail.com

hey guys- it's been a ride- just sold my RCA for $100 to a neighbor-- took 4 of us to carry the damn thing out and now i have back surgery on tuesday! no joke- got a samsung 58" plasma... good luck to you all!!

I just purchased a Samsung 46C6900 LED display to replace my RCA F38310. We moved my F38310 upstairs in my daughter's room to be DVD display. Yes it is still working like a champ!! The RCA was purchased 10 years ago from Circuit City open box and it took a lot of playing with service menu to fix the geometry issues that it had once it set up. Without the knowledge from this forum and how to access the service menu I would have returned the unit. Once it was adjusted I have not had a single issue with the RCA.

I can honestly say that the Samsung LED is a big improvement in picture quality. It can display 1080p / 24 fps sources without an issue and it has internet access features Vudu and Netflix. The picture is dazzling and I not experiencing any issues with motion blur that I feared.

All that being said I feel that buying the Samsung I felt a little like I was betraying an old friend. The genesis of that 38 in tube was in the old RCA/Thompson CRT plant in Lancaster, PA. I remember walking into the lobby of the plant as a vendor and marveling F38310 that was on display. I talked to the engineers that on the development team who were upset that weren’t allowed to redesign the display to be flat before introduction!! It was their last tube design to my knowledge.

The Lancaster RCA/Thompson plant has been closed for years and Circuit City is now closed as well. Sometimes progress is painful thing.

Flatscreen woulda been cool. I wonder what was the biggest flatscreen widescreen crt? I know there were 34"'s cuz my brother's got one...

It now says 8225. It must really be 108,225! This damn thing won't fail. Still creates a STUNNING 1080i picture. Visitors are blown away when they see the pic quality. I really want a new big flatscreen (with HDMI inputs!) but will be a hard sell with the wife as long as this old beast is still working like a champ!

F38310, vintage 1993.
FIOS
Tivo Premiere w/cablecard (Internet connected)
LG BD370 Blu-ray player
Dynex remote control component video switchbox

"F38310, vintage 1993."

Of course I meant 2003! Let's see, I think I bought my Sony XBR in 1993. That was actually a GREAT set in its day.

I've had mine since January 2002 and its still going strong. The wife decided it was time for a bigger, thinner model, so if anyone wants this one just let me know. I'm in the SW suburbs of Chicago.

I still have my two working. It has too much overscan though, unless that is the cable box.

I've had this TV for 8 years. When i bought it, it had a better picture than anything else in the store.
Its just as good today as it was then.
I want a bigger screen but i have to sell this first.

Mine looks awesome for OTA HDTV. For some reason it doesn't look nearly as good from my computer at 1920x1080. I resized my desktop to 1280x720 (while still outputting 1080i) just to be able to read text clearly.

The Big Screen Store will give me $200 trade for my F38310 AND HAUL IT AWAY (that's the best part). I wish the old set was no longer working perfectly but it is. But I think it's time to get a current technology set with 1080p and HDMI. Not sure if I'll go LCD, LED/LCD, plasma, 3D or whatever but in any case it will be in the 54" to 60" range. Guess my final post on this thread will be what I wind up with as the replacement for my trusty old F38310 which I have certainly got my money's worth out of since 2003.

I am going to scrap mine now. If anyone wants one in MA you can have it. It is working.

I went through three of them for screen defects and the last one had the CRT replaced. It was from the last production run. From then on it was perfect. I gave it away to a couple of college kids for their dorm room about a year ago. They had to haul it up three flights of stairs!! I talked to one of them a couple of weeks ago and it is still going strong. I replaced it with, first a 55" LED LCD, then moved that (very good BTW) set to my den and put a 60" plasma in it's place. The plasma comes closest to the venerable F38310.

I almost moved the F38310 to my bedroom. Not enough space or anything strong enough to hold it... but that is how much I liked the monster...

Phil


The Big Screen Store will give me $200 trade for my F38310 AND HAUL IT AWAY (that's the best part). I wish the old set was no longer working perfectly but it is. But I think it's time to get a current technology set with 1080p and HDMI. Not sure if I'll go LCD, LED/LCD, plasma, 3D or whatever but in any case it will be in the 54" to 60" range. Guess my final post on this thread will be what I wind up with as the replacement for my trusty old F38310 which I have certainly got my money's worth out of since 2003.

After looking at several sets in 3 stores I settled on a 52" 240 Hz Sharp Aquos Quattron (LC52LE920UN). I was rather sceptical of the "yellow pixel" gimmick on the TV commercials but colors definitely looked better in the store...especially yellows (duh!), greens and blues. About 3 hours ago they delivered my new set and hauled away my beloved F38310 with 107,225 hours on the odo (a moment of silence please) to be recycled. The new Quattron looked great off the HDMI connection to my Tivo Premiere. I then checked it out on a couple of Blu-Rays (Avatar and Inception). In the words of Mr. Sulu: "Oh My!". The PQ is amazing and black levels come close (but will never match) my F38310. I have yet to try it on line (it comes with Wi-Fi adapter) with net material like NetFlix but so far I'm very happy! I'll still miss the old RCA though...it served me well for many years. Sort of sad it will be ground up for scrap metal. :-((

my condolences - i lost my F38310 in October

Remind me how to check my hour meter?

refer to post #4 in this thread.

4988 hours.

Doesn't sound right. That would mean your TV has been "plugged in" for only 208 days.

This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?

Doesn't sound right. That would mean your TV has been "plugged in" for only 208 days.

I thought it is the number of hours while on?

This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?
Donate to a charity.

I thought it is the number of hours while on?
Nope... plugged in.

This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?

Sell it cheap on craigslist.

i got $100 for mine

I paid 350 for mine, with stand. But that was 3 years ago. If it broke today and there was one on craigslist for $100, I'd buy it. I'd even drive to Walnut Creek for it :)

In fact, I just moved about a month ago, and two funky things have been happening since I hooked it back up... twice it's started turning itself off and on... both times I unplugged it, let it sit (until I wanted to watch it) then plugged it back in and it was fine.

The other problem I think is more likely my onkyo avr than the tv. Sometimes when I use my avr to switch component inputs to the tv (like from pc to bd) then the bottom half of the tv is all covered in pink and black lines for 10-30 seconds. Never ever had that happen before I moved.

So maybe if you're lucky (and I'm not) it'll completely crap out on me next time I watch it (or I'll come home to find it turning itself on and off again and it won't fix itself with a simulated power failure).

Well I just gave mine away on Craigslist. Better than paying someone to carry it out. 3 people called soon after posting it.

It rolls over at 100000 like the odo on an old car. Add 100,000 to your number.

I barely used it. Pretty much the only time it got used was when my wife's parents visited a few times a year.

It rolls over at 100000 like the odo on an old car. Add 100,000 to your number.

Perhaps... but that equates (if my math is correct) to the TV connected to power for 12 years. :eek:

104988 / 24 = 4374.5 days
4374.5 / 365 = 11.98 years

Is there still anyone here that is still using this beautiful tv?

Heck yes! Still the biggest TV in the house. It isn't the most used TV in the house, but it's still the best. :)

The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.

I just gave away my working unit. I measured its electrical use, then got a Samsung 42" LCD LED TV.

The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.

Actually... that was easily resolved in the service menu. Performed geometry and overscan adjustments on mine back in 2002.

Heya Matt, I know this is old but I would love to have this info as mine is getting a little out of focus also.

Well after some digging here I found answers to both my questions, how to set the focus, I read it's a two step process with 2 controls, interesting. Also it doesn't not look that daunting to adj. the overscan, may attempt it in the next few days.

Post #299.

Two access holes on the back of the TV. Be careful.

My 38310 was replaced as my primary TV by a 46" Toshiba g300u which I'm nuts about. the RCA is sitting in the spare bedroom, powered up and awaiting its next mission. It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310. I'm still going to try the geometry and focus adjustments discussed here. It's been and continues to be a great TV. But, as Ratman and now I can attest, there's life after the 38310 and, for both of us, that led to a couple of often overlooked LCD's from Sharp and Toshiba.

It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310.

I'll back that statement.
Although I loved the picture quality of the F38310 (real blacks especially), after I got the Sharp, I didn't realize how much the focus and brighness had gone slightly "off whack".

I guess the trade-offs (comparing LCD to CRT) are a substantially less weight and footprint, larger screen size, more inputs, more/better features, etc. All for a lot less money than I spent in 2002 for the F38310 and the matching stand. Which BTW, I still use with my Sharp and looks great (I only had to remove the locking pins from the top). ;)

I have been through this thread once and partially again looking to find how to enter the service mode to see if I can reduce the overscan, sorry I would love a new tv but being on a disability there isn't much left at the end of the month if anything.

So yes I have been into the part with the 3 fingers thing but didn't find how to get into the menu from there to make changes..

My service date 11/08/2002
in service counter is 2462 or 11.6 years

I also found these errors

Errors Stored in EEPROM

Television errors:
01/02/1970 at 09:38 code 0x010000b0
04/06/2010 at 20:04 code 0xfff08820
04/06/2010 at 20:18 code 0xfff08820

Digital Module errors:
11/10/2002 at 19:00 code 0x010000b0
11/18/2002 at 01:22 code 0x010000b0
01/10/2003 at 02:54 code 0x010000b0

Anyone know what they all mean?

Thanks

Read from post #729... process is explained.

don't worry about the eeprom error codes.

Ok I must be some kind of an idiot.

The tv has been on for a few hours now, I just the I use the ch down and direct tv buttons and I get the bar across the bottom with the version of I think it is

Version Number: 04.14 P: 0 V: 0

Post 731 says I need some kind of a publication that is no longer available.

In post 735 it says to pres VOL + to change the P: 0 to 76, all it seems to do for me is bring up an ugly volume control on the top of the screen and blank out the screen, I have tried this on the panel on the tv and on the remote and I can't get the P: 0 to change.

It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
I don't know what you may be doing incorrectly.

Once you get past the passcode, the following post explain the parameters to adjust position adjustments. Just read more of the posts in this thread.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=6858&postcount=5

Found this from an earlier post:
Horizontal size (P:05)
Horizontal position (P:04)
Vertical size (P:11)
Veritical position (P:10 course)
Vertical position (P:13 fine)
pincushion/parabola (P:07)
Top corners - pincushion (P:09)

It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.


Wow! I am so glad to have stumbled upon this thread. I've had my F38310 right at 10 years and it's still performing like a champ, but unfortunately it is pretty fuzzy around text and it needs some adjustments in the worst way.

Ratman, I was able to pull up the service menu based on this but I experienced what someone else mentioned - I can get it to "76", but then what? Nothing happens. I try all sorts of buttons on the remote and tv itself but can't seem to "enter" that selection. Does anyone have any idea on what to try?

I would love to get this corrected to these settings and see if it can make it a little longer before finally upgrading - it's been a great set and I can't believe it's been 10 years!

Somewhere in this thread is the info you need on getting into the service menu, but you'll have to search. There is a link to a .pdf file here or online somewhere with all the various settings spelled out, been too long have no idea where I got it.

Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.

Mine is relegated to the basement for occasional use or when family comes over with game boxes, I really much prefer my other displays over the 38310, since all of them are bigger.

There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.

Refer to the info in the link provided in post #1124.

Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.

Thanks Matt! I did some research last night and found the .pdf - now, the trouble will be getting to the back of the monster. We've had it in a entertainment center from pottery barn that you would think was designed for this exact model tv - very deep and the dimensions fit it perfectly. Only problem is trying to get it turned to work on the back. Definitely going to give it a whirl. Thanks!

There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.

Thanks Ratman - I was doing everything correct, but it was just the channel up and down keys on my original RCA remote are not responding, so it seemed like nothing was happening.

On a hunch, I tried to use my DirecTV remote and sure enough that did the trick. It worked great and I was able to correct a lot of the things that didn't look right. Now I just need to tweak the focus at the panel in the back and we'll be good to go. Thanks again.

I had never looked at this before and it's been 10 years. Wow. :)

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/3122/hours.jpg

If you are in the St. Louis area and would like a free, full functioning 38310, please contact me. You have to carry it away and, as you already know, it is heavy. But I will include the original remote and I believe I printed out the manual at some point.

I have one in southern Oregon if anyone wants it PM me for details.
I am moving to a house off-grid and my power setup will not be able to support this wonder.
I still feel that this is the best set for HD video games when properly calibrated. It will be sad to see it go but someone should enjoy it at least instead of having it gather dust.

Snap!

I acquired one of these last year. In April, it did a little picture shimmie, turned into an ozone generator, then went black. I decided to move the giant ass whore of a TV to the garage until I could get rid of it.

A couple of weeks later, curiosity got the best of me, and I decided to plug her in and see what she would do. Well, she fired right up. No problems, great picture, no ozone. So I moved her giant ass back into her rightful spot in the living room.

Now she's gotten snappy.

Every once in a while, while watching, there is a snap and a screen flicker. If that doesn't occur while watching, then most of the time it will when powering it off. In those instances, I can see a little spark from inside the set, looks to be near the back of the tube assembly itself. I am no electronics expert, so I'm not sure.

Any advice? Am I looking at a power board issue? Or maybe a tube discharge issue?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

"giant ass whore"?
Great 1st post.

C'mon... it could be a number of issues. If your are very technical and patient, buy a service manual and try to repair. If not, recycle it.

Even if you think you know what you're doing, taking the back cover off is the easiest part. Isolating the problem, disassembly to replace a board/component is not for a novice. Reassembly is a trickier part.

If it were that easy to repair, this thread would be more lively.

ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S. Open the set up (unplug it first if you don't wanna die) and check the part number on the flyback transformer. But it should be a 250789 (T14700). If the TV still starts up, its always possible to us silicon to stop the High Voltage leak but i would not recommend it..

ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S.
You could be correct, but a sick flyback is not a common problem with an F38310 (DTC306) specifically. So I would be cautious to state it's the "obvious" problem without personally seeing the set/symptoms.

Also, as a precaution, just because you unplug the set doesn't mean you can't get "zapped".

^You're right, its not a common problem. Rereading his post, it could be the tube that's shorting also, since it comes from the back of the tube and not the circuit.

Like Ratman says, DO NOT OPEN THE COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO DISCHARGE THE TUBE!
Especially if theres a high voltage leak. These TV's don't discharge themselves and you will be shocked if you touch the High voltage lead. :eek:

Hi, all! Glad to find a forum for RCA F38310 owners!

Mine started misbehaving a few weeks back and I made a very amateurish mistake when disassembling the set. I disconnected the black and white wires from the plastic block on the kine driver board (circuit board on the back of the tube) without labeling which goes in which hole. The holes are labeled "A" and "B" which is no help. I've searched through the pictures that I took of the set when taking it apart and all of those I could find on the net and can't find one at the correct angle to help me. Heat sinks always hide the connection. I've purchased the service manual and that wasn't any help. I've called local repair shops and they refuse to help unless I pay $100+ for a service call.

Would anyone be willing to take a look in their set and let me know which wire goes in which hole? A picture would be even better! If so, I would be eternally greatful! Thanks in advance!!!

Bought mine in 2002, gave it to my daughter and her husband 4 years ago, they use it everyday, never had any issues with it, picture still looks good.

What's the best way to connect an HDMI device to one of these?
I have an Acer AR1600 HTPC I would like to connect to it.

What's the best way to connect an HDMI device to one of these?
I have an Acer AR1600 HTPC I would like to connect to it.

Can't connect HDMI to one of these. Use component video and analog(stereo) audio instead. (Alternatively run hdmi or spdif to your receiver for sound). If you don't have component output on yoru htpc, buy a new video card. (Or alternatively a new tv).

Or... HDFury. That supposedly converts HDMI to component.

It does. When my F38310 was my primary TV, I used an HDFURY II to connect my Blu-ray player and dvd recorder to it. The combination facilitated upconversion to 108i from both players and produced a significantly better and more detailed picture.

How's the HDFury compare to a non converted component signal?

The highest resolution you get with a straight component connection is 480P. The HDFURY enables upconversion to 1080i through the RCA's component inputs. You get the next best thing to true high definition instead of an SD signal. The result is a significantly better picture. the purpose of the HDFURY is to permit the dvd player to recognize an HDMI device. Blu-ray or upscaling DVD players will only upconvert to 1080i(or P which the RCA 38310 can't display) via an HDMI connection.

The highest resolution you get with a straight component connection is 480P.

You are mistaken. Component supports up to 1080i.

I get 1080i no problem with a straight component connection. My PC, Dish HD DVR, and BD player are hooked up to my tv that way (with my receiver acting as a switchbox).

I neglected to add the phrase "from an upconverting DVD player" to my statement. You're right with the exception that a DVD upconverting player will only move the resolution of a standard DVD up to 1080i(or 1080p if the TV is capable of displaying it) through an HDMI connection. The HDFURY provides that connection.

^ Yeah, component is able to display even 1080p. It depends on the TV and the output signal. I have seen many TV's that weren't 1080p thorugh HDMI and could accept 1080p through component. Component is as good (i find even better) than HDMI. The advantage of HDMI is sound and having one cable :p. If a console or DVD could output higher than 1080p, component could accept it easily. The only problem would be with the TV. A monitor like my Xp37 Xtra would be the only kind of set able to display it easily.

Well, my JX4 with a DTV306GCB finally gave up on me! Suspect a power supply problem, but have not troubleshot yet other than a visual inspection. I see that RCA used to sell a DTV306KIT that included the following parts -
DTV306 Repair Kit
> : Contains :
> : T14600 - 243860 - Transformer
> : Q14601 - 258229 - P4NC60 Kit
> : Q14602 - 147665 - MPS8599
> : Q14603 - 232218 - MPSA05
> : U14603 - 231525 - IC
> : R14603 - w/258229
> : CR14611 - 234048 - diode
> : CR14613 - 236168 - zener diode
> : CR14615 - 227887 - diode
My visual inspection didn't show anything obvious with these parts. My question would be - am I on the right track?
I also looked at CR14710 and it was a bit dull from heat, but didn't look to be badly burned.

I'm trying out one of the HDView boxes now.
I use XBMC on my htpc.
I have Windows 7 and XBMC both set at 1920x1080
On windows 7 desktop the display is scrambled.
I have tried all sorts of different refresh rates and nothing seems to work so far.
However, when my htpc loads XBMC it syncs up and gives me a picture.
Any ideas what's going on?

Is there a way to force NTSC on windows 7 desktop?

Mine has been working fine since 2001. We've now replaced it with a larger flat panel. I'm in the SW suburbs of Chicago. If anyone wants it they can come by and pick it up. Just send me a PM.

It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
I don't know what you may be doing incorrectly.

Once you get past the passcode, the following post explain the parameters to adjust position adjustments. Just read more of the posts in this thread.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=6858&postcount=5

Found this from an earlier post:
Horizontal size (P:05)
Horizontal position (P:04)
Vertical size (P:11)
Veritical position (P:10 course)
Vertical position (P:13 fine)
pincushion/parabola (P:07)
Top corners - pincushion (P:09)

I'm need to adjust these settings for the component input but all I can get are P1 and P0 when component is selected.

Is there any way to do it?

---

I figured it out.
I had to send 1 standard 1080i signal to the TV and then it allowed me to get to the other settings.

Sorry, radicon, I didn't get an email saying new posts were made, so my response is slow...

First, you might read the chipper check instruction manual:
http://www.thomsonnetwork.com/documents/Training.pdf

Second, you must have already looked at the chapter from the service menu on alignment procedures:
http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf

That's all I know. Unfortunately I can't remember what was done (if anything) about convergence when I had it ISF'd.



Update on my set:

Well, I bit the bullet and bought the electronics out of a dead F38310 (Lurch's set). I paid WAY too much (including the repair cost, I probably could have bought a working replacement with shipping on Ebay), and have no guarantee that the board I need is working. Supposedly the DM1 Power Supply is dead. He told me that he thought the other parts (the DM1 module, the I/O Board I need, the maine power board, the kine board, etc) were OK. I hope he wasn't bs-ing me -- if he is, I suppose I can contest the credit card charge.

On this subject, Aviators99, see if you can find out which board/component is bad on your set. If it is a different board than I need, maybe I can make a deal to help cut my cost. Maybe you can settle and retain the set -- and pay for the part of of the settlement. Or maybe cc or the servicer would be willing to buy the part off me. Anyone else looking for parts?

Anyways, I should get the parts in a week (UPS Ground, Oakland to Central Maine), and then my servicer will swap the board in and see if it works.

Joe

I wanted to download the alignment PDF but the link no longer works.
http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf
Could someone please upload it or tell me another link.

Thankfully the Internet Archive Wayback Machine had a backup:
http://web.archive.org/web/20060106002330/http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf

I have also uploaded it here if anyone else needs it.

Could someone please tell me what the "Screen" adjustment (3rd Hole) is for?


http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9533/focusyg.jpg


Could someone please tell me what the "Screen" adjustment (3rd Hole) is for?

If you are using this with a HTPC like me get the attached test pattern and put it in a folder by itself.
Open the folder and right click and "preview the file"
Then hit F11 to make it full screen.
Put a big mirror a couple of feet in front of the TV and go around back of the TV
Stare at the vertical and horizontal lines in the center circle.
Use Focus 1 to make the vertical lines as thin as possible.
Use Focus 2 to make the horizontal lines as thin as possible.
Repeat Focus 1 and Focus 2 at least 3 or 4 times.
You will be impressed with the results!

I tried lightly turning the third "screen" adjustment but it doesn't seem necessary.

Now the only other thing I might do is try degaussing the screen but it isn't bad enough to make worry about it too much.

After hanging on for too long, I've got to let my F38310 go. I have no room for it. If anyone wants it, I'm in Holland, MI.
Can't find the CR14710, diode, stock number: 243846 anywhere. It fried.
Best TV I ever had, unappreciated because of its size these days.
Let me know if you want it to fix or for parts, otherwise its off to recycle land :(
Is there any point in removing the HD receiver before scrapping?

FWIW, you may be able to get the part here:
http://www.hbfelectronics.com/index.php?action=disp_item&item_id=415530
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Thomson/RCA/243846/New.aspx
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Rca-Parts/Television-Parts/243846/0057/528/Model-P52921YX2/1262/0333200?keySuffixId=NA&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=P0012249&diagramPageId=00001&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=P52921YX2&subCompDesc=Tv&brandDesc=RCA&modelDesc=TELEVISION&blt=11

Well, I guess all good things must come to an end.
You know that small greenish vertical line in the center of the screen when you first turn on the set?
That's all I get now.
And it just stays there whether I turn the set on or off.

After discovering it would cost $0.15 per pound to "recycle" large TVs locally, I found a local TV repair shop who agreed to take it off my hands, fix and sell it or donate it to a church.
Thanks for this forum over the years!

I have a working F38310 that I am trying to get rid of to make way for new TV. Free to pickup in Northern VA. Please bring in extra help to carry this 200lb TV. You can have the stand that is made specially for this TV

I will post the odometer once I figure out how to do it.

Periodic lurker here, post at times.

I recently looked at my 10 year old f38310 and said, maybe its time to go bigger, newer, flatter, and lighter. Lets research, so I dug around allot here and some other sites.

Motion blur, burn in, limited viewing angles, good blacks but bad whites, good whites but bad blacks, good movies but bad sports, 480 content looks terrible, good video games but..., good sports but...

OMG my 10 year old HDCRT IMO has none of these problems, WTF are the consumers excepting. I'm wondering how I can score something like what I have but bigger and it's not clear I can even get something close in my budget? However, my 38 16x9 CRT is running fine whilst crushing video quality all over best buy's floor. Allot of the tail end of this thread is "my F38310 just died". I understand I'll have my day too, but my research has told me to re-appreciate my beast. And yes I have moved her 4 times, including an upstairs pad (wow I had to dig deep on that one), and back down. Make sure you got the right buddy with you and half the load isn't a problem for yourself.

CRT vs LCD or Plasma thread is very interesting. As is the Plasma vs LCD thread.

When my day comes for my F38310 to retire, so shall tears flow from my eyes. That picture is gorgeous, and I am loving it as my primary TV still.

What do I have to spend to rival this picture and is plasma the only option to getting there?

Hi all, just joined this forum and am wondering if there's anyone followiing this F38310 thread anymore? Or should I post questions to the general 'direct view' area?

thx

Any specific questions? Many like me are still sub'd to the thread. I still have my 38310 but I have not used it in a few months. I think it's still something to behold.

Thx for the reply and glad there's still interest in the best PQ monitor there is.

My JX5 bought 02/02 just turned 10yo, and except for the tuner going out 6mo's ago, hasn't given me any prob's. Trying to fix the tuner prob. led me to this forum, and gave me courage to pull the cover off. Very dusty/dirty! The cap's on the boards are the upgraded one's, no burns or oozing. Thinking last summers violent storms fried the tuner (along with my wireless router).

Did the service menu check, and at eeprom it said avdec=ok, tuner=ok what?? so much for that test... Tried unplugging for 2hrs and retuning on both antenna's but still no channels found.

odometer reads 22,958 with act.date of 11/03, but that's when I first used D*TV so must have lost a couple of years of readings.

Having gone through every post, using search, down-loading Dr. Joe's, etc., etc., so many of the links are dead, so...

I still can't seem to find out if the tuner fan can be disabled. The noise is so bad while watching...and don't want to blare the sound to drown it out. For that matter, would like to pull the whole tuner since I have a digital stb for ota. Possible??? Seems I read that all the inputs are running through it...

Any thoughts, ideas, links, pics, would be appreciated.