The power supply mod is a lot cheaper than a new loader and it will fix all the problems!!!

....


cavu, do you have a picture of the circuit board that you could post to show the locations of components such as C1022 and the 3.3 volt regulator? My D1 is sometimes choppy and erratic in its behavior lately.

Noel

do you have a picture of the circuit board that you could post to show the locations of componentsNoel:

Yes, I am creating a web page with pix, firmware, instructions, sources, secret codes, etc.

My memory is pathetic - please PM me and remind me to post that page here when I am done (sometime within the week).

Stay in touch.

I opened up the D1 just to find capacitor c1022. It was very easy to find because it was the only cap that had brown gunk around it. The capacitor had leaked.

It is near the front of the player in a cluster of 6 components - 4 of which are capacitors. The number "c1022" is on the board in the middle of the cluster and can be seen only by looking from straight above the capacitors. I will go to Radio Shack and see if they have any 1000 mf capacitors in stock.

No wonder my player was erratic. The original fuss loader worked but would not read some discs all the way through. I tried several different DVD drives (Hitachi, LG, Panasonic) in it and sometimes they worked and sometimes they did not.

Thanks, cavu.

I will go to Radio Shack and see if they have any 1000 mf capacitors in stock.When replacing C1022 (1000uf @ 16v) and any other necessary cap, use a replacement with a higher rated voltage . You could use this 1000uf @ 35v (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&pg=1&parentPage=family) - its the nearest that Radio Shack has in their catalogue. I used to recommend 50v units (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Capacitors&product=2729014) but it seems RS in the USofA doesn't have any. It's odd that the Canadian Radio Shack stores (now "The Source" by Circuit City) have a broader selection that the US Stores.

I am personally using miniature high temp Nichicon caps (http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-rz.pdf).

If the replacement part is physically larger than the original: Carefully bend the leads at 90 degrees (http://www.flying-colors.org/cap.jpg) making sure they don't "short" together or touch any other component and set the replacement on its side tight to the board. In that instance, you should probably slide a bit of "spaghetti insulation" or heat shrink (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&cp=&productId=2102875&kw=heat+shrink&tab=summary) (or use some plastic insulation stripped off a piece of small solid core wire) over the exposed leads of the new part. Then get a piece of foam the size of your little finger nail and squeeze it between the cap and the components below to prevent vibration. (The PS is a HF unit and you don't want the cap to physically vibrate.)

Also note that some of the other components are cemented to the board and that is not cap leakage.

Try not to remove the DC connectors as they are often glued in place too. Just pull out the two AC plugs and flip the board over on top on the loader to work on it.

CAUTION. Make sure you observe that the polarity of the replacement matches the original part!!!!

just bot a Bravo D1 from NewEgg

Do you have a digital camera? If so, take a real good closeup of the manufacturer/serial number label on the back centre of the box. Pop the eight screws out of the cover and get a good closeup of the power supply board the video processor board, and the label on the DVD loader.Email the pix to me and we'll try and sort this out.

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--Front_Remote_Manual.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--Guts.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--PS.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--Mpeg bd.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--Fuss label.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/mouw/AVSforum-pictures/Bravo D1--Model Serial Label.jpg

Box it came in looks RETAIL
Unit is in Like-New condition (box was reTaped)
D1 is operating OK last night....just got a 1000mfd/35v cap from RS
going to replace c1022 per CAVU

My Bravo D1 has finally given up the ghost afters years of good service. Can anyone point me in the right direction to troubleshoot it? I've never had any problems before so, I never did any of the mods that are talked about here.
Problem:
1. The tray will open and close, but it won't recognize any discs that I put in. It just says loading.
2. After about 2 minutes or whirling, the display goes to all zeros. When you push play, it says no cd.

Can I just swap out the dvd drive with another one with the case open to see if it's just the drive?

Any help appreciated...It played anything I threw at it up til now, and I'd like to keep it if possible because of the DVI.

My Bravo D1 has finally given up the ghost afters years of good service.If you had read back a few messages, you would find this solution:

A new loader will not fix the problems!!!

Changing the loader is solving a symptom for a while (different PS load), not solving the problem. If the PS has not failed yet, it will. The original Fuss loader and the later EPO loaders will work just fine!

I have modded several dozen D1 players and have never seen a secondary failure. The D1 becomes robust and reliable.

Replace C1022 (1000uf @ 16v) with a higher rated voltage capacitor. You could use this 1000uf @ 35v (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&pg=1&parentPage=family) - its the nearest that Radio Shack has in their catalogue.

If the replacement part is physically larger than the original: Carefully bend the leads at 90 degrees (http://www.flying-colors.org/cap.jpg) making sure they don't "short" together or touch any other component and set the replacement on its side tight to the board. In that instance, you should probably slide a bit of "spaghetti insulation" or heat shrink (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&cp=&productId=2102875&kw=heat+shrink&tab=summary) (or use some plastic insulation stripped off a piece of small solid core wire) over the exposed leads of the new part. Then get a piece of foam the size of your little finger nail and squeeze it between the cap and the components below to prevent vibration. (The PS is a HF unit and you don't want the cap to physically vibrate.)

Also note that some of the other components are cemented to the board and that is not cap leakage.

Try not to remove the DC connectors as they are often glued in place too. Just pull out the two AC plugs and flip the board over on top on the loader to work on it.

CAUTION. Make sure you observe that the polarity of the replacement matches the original part!!!!

I am building a special web page and will post everything remotely related to the Bravos there but, in the meanwhile, I have to post this one image! PM me if you need additional help!

Many, many AVS members having difficulty identifying the correct capacitor on the power supply board. The "C1022" legend is hidden beneath the components and the markings on the cap are likewise hidden. So, to be very clear and save some members considerable damage:

The circled capacitor is C1022 !! ;)

http://www.flying-colors.org/bravo-c1022.jpg

Cavu,
I did read back a few pages and thought that since it loaded and such that the problem might be different than others. Thanks for the reply, I'll give a go and report back.

I bought a 1000uf 35volt capacitor from Radio Shack and replaced the original c1022 one that had leaked in my Bravo D1. Everything works just fine now. No erratic behavior.

Nice picture of the power supply board.

Thanks for the tip, cavu.

Cavu,

Your the best...Thanks.

The board was pretty burnt, but changing the cap fixed it. Let's see how long it lasts.

Anyone get their bravo d1 from ubid yet? Mine is coming on Friday.

My ubid.com D1 is due on Thursday. The wait is killing me. I have been assembling all the necessary parts for the capacitor swap so I am ready if the 16v cap is there.

Cavu, I have a question for you. How can I check to see what firmware version is on the device? I have tried to locate the most current ISO for the D1, but it looks like you are the only source.

How many of my children do you want for the ISO?

Jeff

How can I check to see what firmware version is on the device?Using the remote, key in "RIGHT-DOWN-LEFT-UP-ENTER-1". If that brings up a menu, you have the latest. If it doesn't - you don't.I have tried to locate the most current ISO for the D1, but it looks like you are the only source. How many of my children do you want for the ISO?It depends on their ages and the condition of their teeth. PM me with your email address and we can negotiate!!

My ubid.com D1 is due on Thursday. The wait is killing me. I have been assembling all the necessary parts for the capacitor swap so I am ready if the 16v cap is there.

Cavu, I have a question for you. How can I check to see what firmware version is on the device? I have tried to locate the most current ISO for the D1, but it looks like you are the only source.

How many of my children do you want for the ISO?

JeffI have a Ubid Bravo D1 coming on the 23rd also...cap/solder gun really to go...what's this about a firmware upgrade...what are the improvements.

what's this about a firmware upgrade...what are the improvements.The newest firmware does some housekeeping but the major items of interest would be: Customizable output resolutions and refresh rates
Region-free operation
Ability to upscale over component output

The newest firmware does some housekeeping but the major items of interest would be: Customizable output resolutions and refresh rates
Region-free operation
Ability to upscale over component outputWith my infocus 4805 connected by DVI, I would need this to do the 1.1. pixel match...is this correct. Does V.Inc supply this firmware upgrade.

I would need this to do the 1.1. pixel match...is this correct.No ... not if you are happy with the preset 852x480@60hz (the D1 offers 4-preset DVI output options: 480p, 720p, 1080i and 854x480@60Hz).

If you want to try eliminating 3:2 pulldown altogether, with 48Hz or 72Hz refresh rates or bump it up to use the last 960 pixels, ie. 854x480, you would need the latest firmware.

PM me with your email address and I will send you an ISO image file which you will have to burn to a CD using your rippig software (ie. Nero).

Ok guys, I need a new loader. The Fuss is acting up, sometimes it just won't play anything! My wife isn't happy (because it's brand new and doesn't work) so I'm not happy. I don't like throwing my Credit Card number out just anywhere, so I guess I'm lookin for some place safe to order one that will work, ie. Newegg, Amazon (you know the drill). I don't care how it looks, I just want it to work. I need some help because all the loaders I see on this forum I can't get for one reason or another.

Most people I think (including myself) are getting this one and your credit card should be safe.
http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=CA1546927

Ok guys, I need a new loader. The Fuss is acting up, sometimes it just won't play anything!If your Fuss loader is truly acting up (which I personally doubt) the only loader I would recommend for the D1 is the newer "EPO-type" from Vizio. I believe it's $30+$7 shipping. It is a plug and play replacement. None of the other loaders discussed here are the correct form factor and involve some amount of velcro, shims, etc., circuitous loader-firmware and region setting and the very real possibility they will not boot the D1 firmware CD. YMMV.

I apologize in advance for crossposting. I am leaving for New Zealand on Monday. All D1 power supply boards, D1 and D2 units I have received up to yesterday have been modded and are being returned: PS boards by snail mail and units by Fedex ground. Anything still enroute to me will be intercepted by my son and will wait till I return in May. I will monitor my email regularily and even check in here once in a while from NZ.

Just a high quality radial electrolytic cap (http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTENEV1000M50FG-B.html). I use 50v.

The voltage regulator is supposed to be 3.3v - don't touch it unless it's faulty.
I recently replaced the capacitor with the radio shack part mentioned earlier in this thread. My question is on the voltage regulator condition. The board is scorched on the side opposite (top) the regulator. Obviously this regulator was overheating. The capicitor I replaced appeared to have leaked but was still working. Would the bad cap cause the voltage regulator to get hot and scorch the board or is this regulator going to go out soon? I checked the voltage on the loader power connector and they were putting out the correct power. I guess I will wait and see what happens.

Any word as to whether the 35 buck factory PSU is better or worse than a DIY cap replacement?

I opened up my unit and found this:

obviously at least the 2 caps need replacing, but what about that mosfet looking thing on the back?

I could be wrong but I think the 35 buck replacement will still be one that requires a cap mod, I think your PS board can be cleaned up with some iso alcohol and some new caps.

Does the replacement board have upgraded capacitors? If not, then it is better to just do the mods if you can solder.

Yeah I can solder fine. Noone has reported if the new boards have uprated caps or not.
The unit itself actually works pretty well, at least with the EPO loader. It won't load the boot disc, though.

It's too bad the 'cap mod' went public after I spent 70 bucks on the loader.

It's too bad the 'cap mod' went public after I spent 70 bucks on the loader.

I changed the loader becuase I was still having problems after I did the cap mod.

btw, the 'cap' to the right c1022 looks like it leaked on my PS as well. It's the one that says 10 uH, 1A on it.
Plugging those numbers into google gives me a 'power choke'. Is rad shack likely to have one of those?

Ack. Rad shack had the c1022 replacement but not the big one (47uF, 400WV).

btw, the 'cap' to the right c1022 looks like it leaked on my PS as well. It's the one that says 10 uH, 1A on it.
Plugging those numbers into google gives me a 'power choke'. A choke (inductor) is nothing but a spool of wire - there is nothing to leak.

Do not overthink this! Replace C1022 and carry on.

Rad shack had the c1022 replacement but not the big one (47uF, 400WV).I doubt VERY much that the 47uF cap is shot!!!

Keep in mind that all the components are GLUED down and the "gunk" you see is glue.

Does the replacement board have upgraded capacitors?Generally not. If you are ordering one from Vizio, speak with "Mark" and specifically state that you require C1022 to be replaced before they ship it.

All the boards they are currently shipping are retreads that have already been swapped out and do not necessarily have the proper fix done to them.

My question is on the voltage regulator condition. The board is scorched on the side opposite (top) the regulator. Obviously this regulator was overheating. what about that mosfet looking thing on the back?If the unit functions AT ALL leave the 3.3v voltage regulator alone!!

If the unit is dead ... the regulator may be a candidate. But you have to know what you are doing ... it has to be properly troubleshot ... you cannot do this blind.

Do not become the Sorcerer's Apprentice!!

Thanks, Mike. I'll just do the one cap and update here when it's back together.

Update:
Cap mod done and everthing seems fine.
It seems I had the 7/11/03 firmware all along.
I did burn the .iso for the current boot disc, but I can't get it to load.

I changed the loader becuase I was still having problems after I did the cap mod.

I too am still having problems with loading after the cap mod. These are new, store bought DVDs too, not burned discs. I am now looking at swapping out the loader to see if that helps. I tried an old Samsung SD-112 or something or other I had laying around and it didn't seem to help. I guess I'll buy one of the drives recommended in this thread and give it a try.

I replaced the suspect cap and siliconed the snot out of all of the caps to try to stabilize them. I even went so far as to make the power supply external by extending the wires so that the power supply is on a separate shelf in it's own enclosure to isolate it from as much interference and vibration (aside from what it generates on it's own) as possible.

I know that some of the more knowledgeable people in this thread insist that the problem lies only with the power supply, but at the risk of sounding contradictory, my experience seems to suggest otherwise. I know that it has been suggested that a new loader might fix the problem "for a while" because it might change the load on the power supply, but I have to give that a try. I have swapped out the cap and secured it as suggested and that didn't solve the problem.

Slightly OT, but BravoD1 specific:

What are the specifics to the 'mpeg4' capability stated on the front of the unit?
The divx mpeg4 codec doesn't work for me....the discs are not recognized.

Is there another codec that works?

Slightly OT, but BravoD1 specific:

What are the specifics to the 'mpeg4' capability stated on the front of the unit?
The divx mpeg4 codec doesn't work for me....the discs are not recognized.

Is there another codec that works?
The Bravo D1 supports MPEG-4 AVI media with ISO 9660 in MPEG-4 Simple and Advanced simple video decoding profiles.

I've had my D1 since 12/03. I've never had a problem except locking up maybe once every 10 dvd's. Is there any reason to do any of these mods if everything seems to be o.k. I've actually ordered a OPPO 971H to compare pictures. Has anyone done a direct comparison between these two. I have a Gefen DVI switch box hooked up to a Infocus 7200. I'll play the same DVD on each and flip back and forth. This should easily allow me to see which one produces a better picture. Thanks.

Ken

Is there any reason to do any of these mods if everything seems to be o.k.You will eventually have to change capacitor C1022. You do not have to change the loader!Has anyone done a direct comparison between these two.Several 971 owners have moved to the D1 for its better PQ.

PM Wes Nance who was a very big Oppo 971 fan but switched or post your query in the big SP4805 thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=610478) where this comparison was discussed ad nauseam.

I've had my D1 since 12/03. I've never had a problem except locking up maybe once every 10 dvd's. Is there any reason to do any of these mods if everything seems to be o.k. I've actually ordered a OPPO 971H to compare pictures. Has anyone done a direct comparison between these two. I have a Gefen DVI switch box hooked up to a Infocus 7200. I'll play the same DVD on each and flip back and forth. This should easily allow me to see which one produces a better picture. Thanks.

Ken

I'm very interested in these results from yet another source.

Can this upconvert over Component?

Does it have custom resolution like the momitsu?

anything else I need to know about it.....

Can this upconvert over Component?

Does it have custom resolution like the momitsu?

anything else I need to know about it.....Yes.

Yes.

Go here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701)

Is it close enought to the Momitsu DX and since the D1 can be had for 3x less should I give it a whirl - this will connect to my Sanyo Z1....

Is it close enought to the Momitsu DX and since the D1 can be had for 3x less should I give it a whirl - this will connect to my Sanyo Z1....Unless I am mistaken, the Z1 has no digital input, only analog.

Therefore, I wouldn't recommend either player for your application. The analog outputs are not recommended. The DVI outputs are SPECTACULAR! The DVI output of the Bravo D1/D2 is reference quality.

But to answer your question: both players use the same Sigma Design chipset, have the same custom resolution options, same "secret" menus and I believe even the same DVD loader.

The Sanyo Z1 FrontProjector has component, VGA, s-video and composite for inputs.

I know the momitsu works as a friend brought his over.

Another question would be can you use a DVI- to VGA adapter to the dvd player so I could run VGA into the projector - this can be done with the momitsu..

I know the momitsu works as a friend brought his over.I didn't say it wouldn't work - I said it was not recommended, ie. nothing special.Another question would be can you use a DVI- to VGA adapter to the dvd player so I could run VGA into the projectorI would think that you would run a component to VGA adapter - not DVI to VGA. Component and VGA are both analog. DVI is digital. I have no experience doing this - perhaps someone else can comment.

I am going off of what you can do with the momitsu - component to component,or use a DVI to VGA Adapter so you can connect using VGA.

I noticed that the bravo says DVI-D while the momitsu says DVI-I so maybe you can't do the same thing.

So component doesn't look good on this compared to DVI?

So component doesn't look good on this compared to DVI?

Definitely not.

I noticed that the bravo says DVI-D while the momitsu says DVI-I so maybe you can't do the same thing.That would do it. Obviously the Momitsu has an analog output wired through the DVI-I port - same as component out!So component doesn't look good on this compared to DVI?Nothing looks as good as the DVI output.

The analog output is probably the same as the Momitsu but it is pedestrian. You could certainly use it till you get a DVI-enabled projector! ;)

That would do it. Obviously the Momitsu has an analog output wired through the DVI-I port - same as component out!Nothing looks as good as the DVI output.

The analog output is probably the same as the Momitsu but it is pedestrian. You could certainly use it till you get a DVI-enabled projector! ;)

The Z4 or maybe new Z5 when it comes out are possible in the fall......


Can you do the custom resolution over component ?

The Bravo will upconvert via component with the latest firmware.

Say I wanted to purchase a pre-modded D1. I don't know how to solder and would be worried to break something trying to replace the cap. Would anyone know someone who could get me a clean, working, & modded D1? Then the only thing I would need to do is get add the DVI input to my Panasonic 42PWD8UK.

The Bravo D1 supports MPEG-4 AVI media with ISO 9660 in MPEG-4 Simple and Advanced simple video decoding profiles.

Been having trouble with a playing a couple avi files. (HDTV content w/5.1) What are ways to update codec on the Bravo and/or to the latest firmware ?

let´s go up this thread.
can someone tell me why it is necesary to change the Cap C1022? and What is the most recomended loader for this player?

can someone tell me why it is necesary to change the Cap C1022?Because the original part WILL fail if it has not alredy done so. Use a 1,000uF 25v replacement.What is the most recomended loader for this player?The EPO 306 is the lastest version of the OEM form factor required and can be obtained from Visio but there is no overwhelming reason to change the existing loader unless it has failed. (I have modded almost 100 units and never had to change one but others on this board have done so).

welcome back, cavu!!
I will go for the D1, but there are some things pending. I posted on the especific thread 4805-D1.

welcome back, cavu!!

mijoeldotor:

Thank you for the link to this thread. Not sure why I did not find this thread when I searched for Bravo D1 but at least you pointed me in the right direction.

Cavu:

Great instructions. I made the modification in less than an hour and that included driving to Radio Shack and back (about 6 miles round trip).

Instead of doing what you suggested with bending the leads at 90 degrees I melted away the solder holding the original capacitor in place, inserted the new one as far as it would go, soldered the connection, and snipped of the excess leads on the back side. All soldering from the back. Since the original capacitor touched its neighbors I did not see the harm in repeating the look of the installation.

Unit fired up like it is suppose to. I turned it on and off several times and it work each time.

So for $1.89 including tax I fixed my D1. So now my dilemma is this, do I send back the Oppo 971H that I have had for a week or do I keep both? Both pictures are real nice. I'll expand more on that in some other thread.


One quick question though...the firmware on my D1 is dated May 5, 2003. Is this the latest? If not, is there any reason to update?

Thank you again, both of you.

mijoeldotor:

One quick question though...the firmware on my D1 is dated May 5, 2003. Is this the latest? If not, is there any reason to update?



There is a 7/11/03 version that IIRC allows you to turn off Macrovision and set custom resolutions via component.

CAVU,

I have a D2 unit which basically will not play most burned DVD's. As I understand reading this thread a cap. replacement should fix this unit also?

I have a D2 unit which basically will not play most burned DVD's. As I understand reading this thread a cap. replacement should fix this unit also?No. The cap replacement applies only to the D1 model. The D2 uses a different power supply.

For your D2 issue, I suggest you check with Mark at VInc Tech Support: 714.668.0588 ext 1678 or techsupp@vinc.com

mijoeldotor:

Cavu:

Great instructions. I made the modification in less than an hour and that included driving to Radio Shack and back (about 6 miles round trip).

Instead of doing what you suggested with bending the leads at 90 degrees I melted away the solder holding the original capacitor in place, inserted the new one as far as it would go, soldered the connection, and snipped of the excess leads on the back side. All soldering from the back. Since the original capacitor touched its neighbors I did not see the harm in repeating the look of the installation.

Unit fired up like it is suppose to. I turned it on and off several times and it work each time.

So for $1.89 including tax I fixed my D1.
Thank you again, both of you.

My unit from Newegg just started freezing on the FBI warning(after just 2 weeks) so I followed your instructions, and using cavu's pics to id the bad cap, the fix took all of 10 minutes.

Man, the internet is a wonderful thing. Thanks so much guys! The picture quality is awesome on the IN72 using Cavu's custom settings from the IN* thread. Thanks to Cavu again! Great work guys!

Yes indeed, we all have Cavu to thank. He da man!

I'm wondering what the difference is between the capacitor fix vs. the loader fix. Obviously these are for different issues but some here say that fixing the loader is not the solution so I'm a bit confused.

In my case about 2 years ago my D1 developed a problem where it would start skipping and eventually get stuck when it got near the end of the DVD.

After opening up the case I could feel a point in the "scrolling" of the head where it would seem to get stuck a bit - seemed like a mechanical issue of sorts.

Anyway I replaced the loader about 1.5 years ago and its worked fine since. So, I'm wondering if I need to replace the capacitor as well and what symptoms to look for down the road that would indicate the original capacitor was failing. Thanks.

some here say that fixing the loader is not the solution so I'm a bit confused."The solution" for what!? :confused:

No-one has said that "fixing the loader" is not a "solution". If the loader is actually faulty, as yours seemed to be, then by all means replace it.

But simply replacing the DVD loader for the sake of replacing it is a waste of time.I'm wondering if I need to replace the capacitor as well and what symptoms to look for down the road that would indicate the original capacitor was failing.The failing capacitor will cause hangups, poor loading, jitter, failure of the loader door to open/close, unresponsive unit ("dead"), etc.

Replacing the loader under these circumstances, instead of properly fixing the power supply, may briefly improve the symptoms, simply because a different loader will have slightly different current/voltage requirements.

But replacing the loader when the power supply capacitor has failed is like painting the boat instead of plugging the hole in the bottom: it may look nice for a while but it is still sinking!!

My Bravo D1 died, I changed the Cap and got two more months out of it. I ordered a new pwr supply board from Vinc and still cannot get it to load. Maybe a bad loader this time. Anyway, I'm just tired of fiddling with it. I bought a couple of new Oppo 971's and love them. Anybody want my Bravo D1 for parts...Free?

My Bravo D1 died, I changed the Cap and got two more months out of it. I ordered a new pwr supply board from Vinc and still cannot get it to load. Maybe a bad loader this time. Anyway, I'm just tired of fiddling with it. I bought a couple of new Oppo 971's and love them. Anybody want my Bravo D1 for parts...Free?
I will take it. Sent you a PM.

I ordered a new pwr supply board from VincUnless they have changed their procedures at Vinc., the replacement PS boards have the same fault as the original and require C1022 to be changed.

Unless they have changed their procedures at Vinc., the replacement PS boards have the same fault as the original and require C1022 to be changed.


Yes, I know. They told me before hand that the board they were sending me was not new. It was a pull from a returned unit. So, there was a chance that it wasn't good from them also. I think I changed it on the replacement board before I put it in, but it was a while ago and I don't remember now. I'm sure I could get it working, but who knows when I'd get around to it. In the mean time, I needed a DVD player. Thanks for all your previous help though.

Dan

I will take it. Sent you a PM.

It's your's. I replied.

"The failing capacitor will cause hangups, poor loading, jitter, failure of the loader door to open/close, unresponsive unit ("dead"), etc."

I replaced my D1's loader about a year ago after loading problems and all seemed well until lately....

I get audio dropouts with DD and DD5.1. Movies begin fine and then about 15-20 minutes in the dropouts begin. Does this sound like it might indicate a failing capacitor?

I have an Epson TW100 with non-hdcp DVI thus I'm limited in a choice of Upscaling DVD and Hi-Def DVD is most likely a non-starter with the TW100. I'd really like my D1 sounding great again as the picture is awesome.

Does this sound like it might indicate a failing capacitor?If you haven't already changed the cap, CHANGE IT!

I don't know how many times I have to say, IF THE CAP HASN'T FAILED ALREADY, IT WILL!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't know how many times I have to say, IF THE CAP HASN'T FAILED ALREADY, IT WILL!!!!!!!!!!!

more than 10!! :D :D :D

If anyone is interested I have a Bravo D1 for sale that has had the known bad capacitor C1022 replaced. The player is like new and works great on all prerecorded DVD's. It has been upgraded to the latest firmware. It has intermittant freezing with DVD-R discs, some will play fine others lock-up. Includes original box, manual, remote and video cable. Email me if interested. Thanks.

If anyone is interested I have a Bravo D1 for sale that has had the known bad capacitor C1022 replaced. The player is like new and works great on all prerecorded DVD's. It has been upgraded to the latest firmware. It has intermittant freezing with DVD-R discs, some will play fine others lock-up. Includes original box, manual, remote and video cable. Email me if interested. Thanks.

I am interested in your Bravo D1. I sent you pm.

Oppo should really close this thread down...:)

I was about to pull the trigger thinking that I had to replace my dead D1 until I thought I'd check here, just to be sure it wasn' t me. Sure enough it was a blown cap like everybody elses. Just replaced it and works fine.

Just wanted to say thanks...now I don't have to go reprogram my remote and change all my macro's....!!!

The Internet can be a great thing..

Thanks again!!!


Sonny

Is it okay to wait until you have problems before you swap the cap? I was trying to get the thing apart tonight, and there seems to be something holding the cover on. I removed all the screws I could find, but it doesn't want to come away from the front bezel (the whole case will swing up a little bit, but it's stuck on the front).

Also, if you do/are using it, is there anything that needs to be done to discharge the system before you start working on it? I'd rather not electrocute myself trying to fix my $35 dvd player :o

Is it okay to wait until you have problems before you swap the cap?Yes.the whole case will swing up a little bit, but it's stuck on the frontTilt it up to about 45 degrees and pull it out, firmly but carefully.is there anything that needs to be done to discharge the system before you start working on it?YES!! Unplug it from the wall!!! That's it.

I've had five PM requests so far today for the current firmware but no-one has included their email addresses. :(

Please include your email address! It will save us all (me!) a lot of time.

Is there a newer firmware than the july 11 2003 version ? Replaced cap and everything is just running fine but just curious to know if theres a way to play a few .avi files (xvid) that I am having trouble with.
Also, is the player known to exhibit sounds ? I couldve sworn I heard some sparkley sounds from it.

Is there a newer firmware than the july 11 2003 version ?If you can access the "secret" menus, you have the latest.Replaced cap and [...] I heard some sparkley sounds from it.I hope you got the polarity right on the cap!!

sorry for the spam, but i know there's a limited market for these things. i'm selling my d1 on ebay, item 110046613598
Thanks to all who have posted on this forum. Your tips and tricks helped make my D1 a freaking awesome player for the year or two I used it. Peace,
t.dix.

I have been negligent in getting this information posted but I am finally doing it in self-defense because I am getting so many requests! ;)

So ... TA DA ... here are the detailed Bravo D1 Capacitor Replacement Instructions (http://flying-colors.org/bravo/).

Just got it from Newegg and experienced the first disappointment. It won't play a DVD+R DL Verbatim disk that plays fine in my Oppo player. I was hoping this player had DL recordable support and I am disappointed.

Geez Mike777 you had me thinkin for a minute :)
I backed up my X-men 3 & Tokyo Drift on DVD+R DL Verbatim's and couldn't remember if I watched the back up or the movie itself, so I just went downstairs and fired up the projector and the D1. I put in my X-Men 3 on DVD+R Verbatim and it plays just fine.
Sometimes when I load one it comes up as an ISO file, with all the files but I open & close and its starts the movie right away.
I use Ink Jet Printable DVD+R DL 2.4x Verbatims

I have been negligent in getting this information posted but I am finally doing it in self-defense because I am getting so many requests! ;)

So ... TA DA ... here are the detailed Bravo D1 Capacitor Replacement Instructions (http://flying-colors.org/bravo/).

Nice site. Thanks for putting it together.

Just got it from Newegg and experienced the first disappointment. It won't play a DVD+R DL Verbatim disk that plays fine in my Oppo player. I was hoping this player had DL recordable support and I am disappointed.
I read somewhere that D1 reads DVD+R DL fine as long as the book type is set to DVD-ROM before burning.

Hello. I have already replaced the capacitor and it works great for most movies. The unit still has some problems loading certain DVD's.

Rush Hour does not load it hangs everytime. Works fine on my toshiba dvd player.
War of the Worlds - brand new in shrink wrap. Opened it up and put it in DVD player. Does not load.

Cap has already been changed out and it works great for other movies.. so it sounds to me like a loader problem. What loader is the easiest to change out with it with good performance/compatibility?

My original Fuss loader was 'fussy' with discs, usually when first loaded.
I went with the factory replacement unit for ~75 bucks.

The new loader doesn't act up like the old one, but I can't skip the macrovision stuff anymore (fbi warning, disclaimers, etc). That feature was a real plum.

ahh is there anyway to get a replacement loader to skip the fbi warning, etc?

ahh is there anyway to get a replacement loader to skip the fbi warning, etc?


Use the origional loader. The problems most people experienced were miss-diagnosed as loader issues. Replace the problem capacitor, secure it with glue or caulking, etc and you are good to go. I am going 1 year and no loader problems. If your loader is actually broken it is an anomoly among the D1 users.

Alternatively you could rip the DVD to your computer and then burn it with DVD shrink and remove the macrovision that way.

Use the origional loader. The problems most people experienced were miss-diagnosed as loader issues. Replace the problem capacitor, secure it with glue or caulking, etc and you are good to go. I am going 1 year and no loader problems. If your loader is actually broken it is an anomoly among the D1 users.

Alternatively you could rip the DVD to your computer and then burn it with DVD shrink and remove the macrovision that way.

I have already replaced the neccesary cap. I did not glue it down though, will it come loose?

I only have played store bought DVD's in it.. I do not have any burned dvd's or backps.. and some of the retail DVD's don't work even new out of box..

I have already replaced the neccesary cap. I did not glue it down though, will it come loose?

I only have played store bought DVD's in it.. I do not have any burned dvd's or backps.. and some of the retail DVD's don't work even new out of box..


I do not think the glue was for keeping it on the board...solder does a good enough job of that. The glue was to dampen vibrations. Other solutions like silicon, or felt wedged between the capacitors, etc, seem to work also.

If a DVD does not work, try power cycling the unit and trying again. Once you secure your capacitor see if you still have the same problem.

I have been negligent in getting this information posted but I am finally doing it in self-defense because I am getting so many requests! ;)

So ... TA DA ... here are the detailed Bravo D1 Capacitor Replacement Instructions (http://flying-colors.org/bravo/).

Linky no worky. :confused:

Linky no workyThe site was moved onto a new server yesterday and there is a DNS change propagating through the system. Should work everywhere by tomorrow latest. Works good here now ;)

I just bought a D1 from Newegg. Upon arrival I changed the cap. The unit appeared new, but the box was re-taped.

On some disks, it plays just fine. On others such as Matrix and US Marshalls, it locked at 2 seconds and would not play the disks. After a couple power cycles, the transport started making noises (really loud seeks) during the initial load, but then would play the disks.

What do I do next? Is it advisable to swap the transport now? If so, which loader works the best and is easily obtainable?

Thanks
-Mike

I just bought a D1 from Newegg. Upon arrival I changed the cap. [...] the transport started making noises (really loud seeks) during the initial load, but then would play the disks.If everything else checks out, exchange it under warranty!

Yeah, but it will probably cost $10 to ship it back. I can get a loader for about $17 locally.

Oh well. I got the custom resolution thingy working today. Had the D1 scale the output to 1024x768 to match the borrowed business projector I am using and the image was stunning. This thing must look awesome on a proper display device. I might even pick up a second one.

-Mike

I just changed my cap. It was leaking too... I didn't know it until I read the threads on avsforum.. The cap I used was out of a dead psu from a computer... it still boots up screwy sometimes... and that's using original dvd's ... I have to power off and on... the remote on off doesn't do it... the cap I used was a 16v 1000uf the same as the one in the bravo d1... just a thought but has anyone tried a separate power supply to the loader? a usb external case should do it... is there a copy of the latest firmware for the d1 on the net? please post a link... sorry if i missed it somewhere...

is there a copy of the latest firmware for the d1 on the net?PM me your email and I will send it to you.

You ought to use a "larger" (read "higher voltage") cap which will dissipate the heat better!

Review this Bravo D1 specific thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701) for more hints.

I tried the external usb case power supply... and in my case it's not the problem... I tried changing the ide cable and loader... still the same... it seems to be the firmware... after doing the fbi warning and just when it goes to the dvd menu the screen goes black ... a little block of video in the bottom left corner and garbled audio... powering off and on fixes problem until the next time... remote on and off doesn't do it..

after doing the fbi warning and just when it goes to the dvd menu the screen goes blackHave you defeated the Macrovision copy protection?

I've tried both macro region on and off... no diff... maybe I should have done some more reading... what's the final verdict on boot up problems? psu , or firmware?

my d1 died. it will turn on but wont eject anymore.

could i just bring this into an electronics store and have the loader replaced?

is this what is wrong with my d1?

my d1 died. it will turn on but wont eject anymore.The loader is fine! Capacitor C1022 in the power supply requires replacement. It costs $1.59 from Radio Shack.

Here are instructions for changing the capacitor (http://gray.mb.ca/bravo/).

See this thread for the latest on the Bravo D1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701).

To Bravo D1 expert owners:

I'm sorry if this question has been asked before, but I did my research and I'm convinced that the answer to my question is 'no', but I could be wrong. Is there anyway we can adjust the color or black level output from the D1? The DVI output is nice, IMO, but with some color and black level adjustment, I think it could be better.

Thanks for the inputs.

The DVI output is nice, IMO, but with some color and black level adjustment, I think it could be better.The black/white levels are adjusted on the SP4805 (if that is what you are using*) with the RGB Gains/Offsets set to 58/28.5 respectively, which settings are known to be accurate.

Likewise, the DVI colour outputs are known to be accurate but if you want to play with those things, get a D2.

* If you are not using the SP4805 display, be aware that the Bravo D1/D2 and most other DVI sources (except HTPCs) are calibrated to "Video" standard digital output (16-235) as opposed to "PC" standard (0-255) and your display must be adjusted to accommodate those levels. (The supplied numbers are accurate for the SP4805!)

Sometimes there is a switch or software toggle on a DVD player to switch between those two standards but not on the Bravo units.

Exactly what is the last/latest version of firmware for the Bravo D1? What is the date on the release? Any info would be appreciated.

Jaymz

Exactly what is the last/latest version of firmware for the Bravo D1? What is the date on the release?Version 1.0.0.5
Date 2003-07-08

BTW, if you can access the "secret menus", you have the latest version.

Thanks CAVU for the quick response. I just wanted to make sure I was up to date. Didn't know if the last version was the one that gave the menus or if there was releases after said point. Thanks again.

FWIW, you can also email Vizio Tech Support (V, inc) at techsupport@vinc.com and they will email you the latest firmware in a 2MB zip file containing the iso to burn to a CD-R. I have a copy from techsupport but I did not need it as mine is already the latest. I changed the cap and my 2D old Bravo is working fine through component (1080i/720p/480p), Svideo, and composite (so far :D) Can't test DVI custom res. with my Mits HD1000u yet as my wife wrapped up my PJ for Xmas :(

Fussy loader is a little slow compared to other DVD players (faster after new cap) but quiet. Analog video output is acceptable but nothing special (of course the custom res. DVI is it's strength and I can't test it yet). Audio is functional but has popping noise sometimes with chapter change. It pillarbox 4:3 on 16:9 window nicely--major advantage over other players. Remote is barely adequate with horrible range. Player is brand new (even under the hood). Not bad for $35 shipped from newegg in 5 days.

thanks for the capacitor mod information! the Bravo D1 seems "snappy" now. there's no delay associated with the remote. the video seems to be smoother. there's less of a "strobe effect" with the player now.

Audio is functional but has popping noise sometimes with chapter change. It pillarbox 4:3 on 16:9 window nicely--major advantage over other players. Remote is barely adequate with horrible range.

I noticed that on mine too. Popping audio when chapter is skipped. Pretty annoying.

The remote indeed is poor. But not all at fault. It seems that the player sometimes needs to "catch-up" on what it's doing before being able to accept subsequent remote commands. (Even with the cap replaced.)

I've had my D1 since the early initial releases, and have persevered with intermittent loading issues. Admittedly the loading issue has caused me to use the player less and less, and after convincing myself that it's just to early to consider getting on the BluRay bandwagon with the PS3, I decided to start looking again at more recent alternatives for upconverting SD DVDs.

I'm using the D1 with a Sanyo PLV70, so I'm sensitive to the fact that there are a shrinking number of players that allow me to use DVI without HDCP. I had been considering the Oppo 971, but now that I've started reading the forums again I see that we now have the well known capacitor mod for the D1 (thanks Cavu!), and don't really need to consider replacing the loader. Needless to say, I'll be doing the cap mod pretty shortly.

One other attraction of the Oppo was the region-free-ness, and since I'm a displaced Brit I do have a bunch of non-region-1 discs. I have access to the secret menus (since I'm using the customer values for the PLV70), so assumed I had the latest (per comments in many threads). I have seen comments that this latest firware provides region-free-ness; however, that is not the case with my D1. When I put in a non-region-1 disc, I get an error message and the disc automatically ejects.

So three questions.

1. Is there a way I can confirm exactly which firmware I have?

2. Cavu, would it be presumtuous of me to PM you with a request to send me the latest and greatest?

3. Where is the best place to obtain another D1 (modded or otherwise); not a counterfeit unit!

Cheers

If you can bring up the custom resolution menu then you have the latest firmware which is 7/03. Search in the SP4805 and Bravo thread for details how to pull this menu up (<3000 projector forum).

Epay and Newegg are the only place that may have Bravo D1 but it will be impossible to tell which is counterfeit without the master serial list of all released players from V, inc. It does not matter though as they are essentially the same, just without any V, inc. (or any for that matter) support besides this forum.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16882680001

Here is Cavu's prior post that I searched for you (I've attached the mentioned program for you):


Enter the secret menu for "Custom Resolution" pixel-mapped output:
SETUP on the remote.
DOWN to Video Setting
RIGHT to DVI OUT.
Key in 9713 on the remote.
Input the custom settings.
ENTER to accept.
SETUP to exit the setup menu.

Use the CR4V880 program to generate the parameters for your particular resolution. Give it the Horizonal PIXELS and Vertical PIXELS along with Vertical Refresh, ie. 854x480@47.952hz will generate the rest of the numbers. The program mode you need is the "Custom Resolution Wizard" which is the 7th icon from the left on the top panel of the program's menu bar. (It's not well labelled ! ) This will create data similar to the following:

BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23688 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1110 PreHSync 0044
HsyncActive 0128 PostHSync 0084
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0010
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

Note: when setting refresh rate, divide the nominal refresh rate by 1.001 to get the accurate refresh rate. For example:
48Hz / 1.001 = 47.95
60Hz / 1.001 = 59.94
72Hz / 1.001 = 71.93
Note 1: You can pixel-map (meaning a single scaling operation to the native resolution of your display) over DVI or component, but your display must offer a "native" mode which it does not internally scale.

Note 2: You can only 1:1 pixel-map (meaning matching the source DVD resolution on a 1:1 basis to the native resolution of the display) over the DVI output to a 480 native display which display offers a "native" mode which it does not internally scale. Any other display resolution means that it is only "pixel-mapped" not "1:1 pixel-mapped" !

The latest. I don't have the version at hand. But if you can enter the "secret menus", you probably have the latest. If you cannot enter the secret menus, PM me with your email address and I will email you an ISO CD image file.

The "other" secret menu is to set region-free operation and defeat copy protection to allow upscaling over component. That code is: RIGHT-DOWN-LEFT-UP-ENTER-1.

PM me for any necessary help.

Hey Huey,

I have been running custom settings for my PLV 70 for a couple of years, so on that basis I seem to have the latest firmware. However, although I had read that post from Cavu, my eyes had unfortunately ignored the details on how to set region free and copy protection, so thanks for pointing that out and I'll try it as soon as I can.

The custom settings I have been running for my PLV 70 were the numbers I obtained from BrandonB (I think!). I have never used the CR4V880 program before; will give it a try and see if the numbers I'm using are truly correct for the PLV 70. (I'm SURE they are!!)

Although my D1 has had intermittent issues with DVDs not working, I went ahead and carried out the capacitor mod over the weekend. (Real easy mod, BTW.) Now I have to figure out which DVDs would NEVER load before the mod to confirm if I have made any difference. I tried a number of discs since the mod and no problems at all, so I guess for now we can count it as a win! (Incidentally, I'm still running the Fuss loader.)

Cheers

Yeah, I'm still on the Fuss(y) loader but has LiteON DVD-ROM ready to go if needed (hopefully never need it). I also swapped out the 40 pin (ATA33/66) ribbon IDE cable with an 80-pin (ATA100/133), rounded, shielded, Gladiator (12" or 30 cm) IDE cable ($10 on the net) and it's perfect so far with the Fuss(y) loader.

Only problem i have now is D1 wont play Verbatim DVD+R DL's. plays my cheapy Playo DL's fine....weird.

Anyone want my FUSS loader? This is the original loader pulled from the d1. email me at tidixon at gmail if you want this thing. If no replies by the 12th it goes in the garbage can.

Help! I got a Bravo D1 from Newegg and did the cap mod prior to ever even firing it up. Apparently there is more wrong than just the cap mod. I still get all the symptoms of a bad cap. All I play in this are store bought discs and just about everytime I try to load one it locks up or freezes. Tonight while trying to watch Over The Hedge with the kids, the player locked up and wouldn't even eject the disc. I tried cycling the power, unplugging, etc. I ended up having to take the unit apart, remove the loader and manually open the tray. I put the unit back together tried a different disc and it played. I tried the Over The Hedge disc again and it played. This player has a magnificent picture, WHEN IT WORKS, but it is getting extremely annoying to have to jump through so many hoops just to watch a movie. I have the Onkyo DV-SP404 that came with my HTIB and may just go to that and scrap the D1. I'd really hate to do that because the custom DVI kicks butt! If anyone has any other info, I would really appreciate it. CAVU seems to be the most knowledgeable on the topic, so if he reads this, I'd appreciate any input.

Also note, yes the cap is installed correctly. I used to do electronics repair work and am skilled at soldering. I have a multimeter available if anyone has any other items that should be checked.

BenJF3 - Have you asked Newegg to replace it?

According to the website, they say manufacturer service only. I may do that, but would more content investing in a new loader if that is the issue. I mean, it's going to be around $10 to ship it back and who knows what I'll get in return. I suppose it's an option. I was kind of waiting on cavu to see his opinion as well. Someone mentioned he has a contact at Vizio, but I don't have the email address. If all else fails I will contact Newegg because the PQ is fantastic on this thing.

Try the LiteON LTD163 or LTD166 and ATA133 cable:

http://cgi.e_bay.com/LTO-LTD-163-16x-Internal-DVD-ROM-IDE-LTD163_W0QQitemZ290070754896QQcmdZViewItem (after clicking on link, remove the underline and refresh page)

Well, I contacted Newegg just to see what the options were and they offered to RMA it for an exchange and will even reimburse me up to $15 shipping. As usual another decent experience with them. I will hope for the best when the replacement arrives which will probably be in about 10 days. For now I'll have to use the Onkyo 404 which came bundled with my HTIB. It looks good, but having to constantly switch aspects between movies and sources in annoying. I liked the Bravo custom setting because I could just always leave the unit set to Native and get an image that filled the screen.

Well, this sucks. Newegg is just sending back the one I sent since they will no longer carry them. I did finally get a reply from Vizio about an OEM replacement loader. They are only $20 plus $7 for shipping. I will probably invest in this since the Momitsu version is over $200. I hate to burst cavu's bubble, but apparently loaders do go bad in these things and the capacitor is not a "fix all solution". I'll see what headway I can make because while the Onkyo 404 upconverting model that came with my HTIB is nice and plays well, I have noticed distinct trailing and artifacts that were not present with the Bravo. The big issue here is WHY DID VIZIO STOP MAKING THESE???? There is a demand for them and they could have improved and upgraded them as well. I would pay up to $150 - $200 for a reliable and well performing customizable unit.

...I would pay up to $150 - $200 for a reliable and well performing customizable unit.
Then you may as well just buy an Oppo and save yourself the angst you're having with the Bravo.

Yea, but can I program a custom resolution into it? I will buy a replacement loader and upgrade the IDE cable to a shielded single device ATA 133 cable as well. I know my Bravo "works", it's just fussy about when it wants to. All I play in it are original discs, no copies. I notice such a difference between the Bravo and my other players that I'd like to "fix" it and continue to use it. I replaced the cap be ore I went ahead with ever even using it, so I'm willing to put a new loader in. I did receive email back from V Inc as well, so I can get the part. I just want to make sure I can get a EPO loader instead of a Fuss loader. Time will tell, for now I'll use the Onkyo.

I hate to burst cavu's bubble, but apparently loaders do go bad in these thingsI never said they don't fail; I said I have never seen a bad one in the 300+ units that I have modded. I have recommended many times in the past (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7430602&&#post7430602) that, if you are going to replace the loader, the one to get is the EPO loader (http://www.epo.com.tw/edp306a.html) from Vizio.

I wasn't trying to crap on your cap replacement. It just seemed that in the many, many threads I have read about this you always stated that "the loader was not bad, replace the cap" and it came off as a "fix all" solution. I apologize if it came off as disrespect, I did not intend for it to. Your input on these boards is extremely helpful and appreciated. I guess the loader in mine is not "bad" per say, because it does play discs, but it is more of a hassle than anything. I have to constantly re-load the disc or otherwise screw around with the unit in order to get it to work. In fact, it acts very much like a bad cap, so your assessment was correct given its history, but in this case the loader most certainly seems to be flaky. I will contact Vizio about getting an EPO loader and since I'm going to be into it again, I will change out the IDE cable as well. Hopefully, that will fix it for good! If not, I may have to buy one from cavu!

BenJF3,
Be aware that if the disc doesn't load the first time, no number of reloads without powering down is likely to make it work. The best thing to do is power off the unit with the hard button on the unit, not the remote and then try again.

Another thing that frequently works for me (particularly on rental DVDs, even new ones) is to take the disc and run it under the hottest water I can get from the tap, then wipe it off with some kimwipes. Just make certain the disc is completely dry before putting it back in the unit.

I'll also be doing a ATA 33 to 133 cable replacement later today with a 14.5" one I found. I'll likely post results in the next few days as to whether or not this does anything at all.

Well, I'm hoping that the EPO loader will fix the loading glitches. The last time it "ate" the disc and got stuck inside and wouldn't read it. These issues are happening with brand new discs straight out of the package. From my reading here, most people reported that changing the loader corrected all the hang ups and glitches. Once I get the unit back and finish my upgrades, I will report here again. Some people have reported that changing the IDE cable alone has corrected glitches, so I will be trying that first. Newegg has the unit heading back to me now.

ATA-133 cable swap was a snap this time. Do as previous poster recommended and heat something to make the extra hole. I used a needle heated over a regular tealight candle this time and it went through like butter (sterno can would work better, but use whatever you've got on hand). DO NOT DRILL! Last time, I used a 1/16" bit and toasted the cable completely. Wasted $8 and a perfectly good (and impossible to find) Gladiator shielded cable. A 1/32" bit might work, but the heated needle method is a much safer way to go. Kudos to the person that gave that tip. :)

The 14.5" was a perfect length, as it gave me a bit of extra room to work with. 12" would be fine as well. We'll see what happens over the next few days before I report any conclusive results. At least this time, I'm only out less than $5 either way.

Does anyone have any contact information for Vinc. ? I mean someone I can contact about the Bravo specifically. I got my "defective" one back from Newegg today. I received an additional $15 credit as well. So as of right now, I have a semi-operational D1 and am willing to replace the loader and cables to get it working properly. It's hard watching movies on my other unit because I see the artifacts and "trials" in some scenes, especially on animated movies such as Over The Hedge and Ice Age 2. I figure even if I put a few bucks into this Bravo to get it performing without all the hiccups it will be worth it.

Does anyone have any contact information for Vinc. ?www.vizio.com (http://www.vizio.com/contact_us/)

Keep in mind that the product sold by NewEgg is 'counterfeit' and not supported by Vizio.

OTOH, you just want to purchase an EPO loader.

Yes, I'm aware that they will not support the unit. My intention is to repair it at my expense seeing as how I got it for virtually nothing. Newegg split the difference in cost with me and covered shipping. I'll look into the Vizio website. I was wondering if anyone had a direct contact, but I'll see what I can do. I'm certain that with the cap mod in place and a new IDE cable and EPO loader this thing should run without incident. Thanks for the help cavu.

I was wondering if anyone had a direct contactSpeak with Mark Mayer.

Thanks all for the tips, I had a fully dead unit (door was stuck open, wouldn't power up at all), the 16v cap was toast, replaced it with a 35v, and it started working.

It seems even pickier than it did before on discs though - only about half of the DVD's I tried would play properly, the others would have audio glitches, black screen, freeze, or some combination. I used to have this occasionally, it was always tied to particular discs (either they'd work well or they wouldn't), now it seems like a much higher %age of discs are having problems. Thoughts?

I did notice a little charring on the power supply board, next to what I assume is an output transistor in the corner towards the front of the unit, next to the loader. Anyone else seen this?

Jim

These things can be finicky. I got mine back recently and if you read back a few posts you would see that I have been having issues as well. Well, I just had a weird experience and I hope I don't jinx myself here. On Saturday the wife and I stayed home due too bad weather and caught up on some movies we'd been wanting to watch on the big screen. We watched a total of about 5 movies back to back without incident. The only change I made was turning off the Macrovision and setting it to region free (0). Now, will this cure the ills, maybe and maybe not. I may still order the replacement loader and IDE cable just to have. One thing is for sure, the picture quality from the DVI at custom on an IN72 blows away the other DVD players I was using in the interim. There is zero "trailing" or "artifacting" which I noticed before. I still see some, but am sure it's due to the cable box setup I have scaling the images and then the IN72 rescaling them down. It may also be some signal compression by the cable company.

There is a special for IDE to USB adapter with 2A 12v/5v molex power adapter perfect for adding external power to your DVD loader on Bravo D1. This should allow one to bypass changing the capacitor on the Bravo D1 and/or improve reliability of one's loader even if you've already modded the capacitor:

http://www.acortech.com/Generic_USB2.0_to_IDE_Cable_for/GP-IDE-0002/partinfo-id-3219923.html

This is the best price I've seen for this type of device ($10 shipped) and they accept PayPal which makes it easy to buy from them. They're usually over $20+shipping. If you don't needed it's still great for making those spare IDE devices USB 2.0 (1.0 backward compatible) like DVDRW, CDRW, hard drives, Zip drives, etc.

My Bravo's Fuss loader will not open no more. I think I have toasted it by reversing the IDE wires using a different IDE cable/connector.
Is there a direct replacement loader? Has any one tried it successfully? Any thoughts/comments appreciated?
Thanks.

My Bravo's Fuss loader will not open no more. I think I have toasted it by reversing the IDE wires using a different IDE cable/connector.
Is there a direct replacement loader? Has any one tried it successfully? Any thoughts/comments appreciated?
Thanks.

I've never heard of anyone toasting a drive that way. I've made that mistake several times over years of PC building and never had any permanent issues.

As far as replacement, you can order one from Vinc or go back in this thread for off the shelf units that work well.

If you haven't checked the capacitor in the power supply, I would suggest doing that first. If you are sure the loader is bad, you can get a direct replacement of the newer EPO OEM loader from Vinc for about $27 shipped (last I checked) and you won't have to mess with any modding of the drive or case.

I did notice a little charring on the power supply board, next to what I assume is an output transistor in the corner towards the front of the unit, next to the loader. Anyone else seen this?Yes. The voltage regulator tends to run warm and will discolor the board. If your unit is functioning at all, it is not an issue.

My Bravo's Fuss loader will not open no more.Replace capacitor C1022 in the power supply. Click HERE (http://www.gray.mb.ca/bravo) for instructions.

If that does not cure the problem (and I am certain that it will!), Vinc. has the "EPO" loader in stock. Contact Hugo in parts at 888.849.4623, ext 2546.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7517934
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10249944#post10249944
Oyong is selling his capacitor modded Bravo D1 with shielded IDE cabling mod. Good chance for some to snap this up.

I've never heard of anyone toasting a drive that way. I've made that mistake several times over years of PC building and never had any permanent issues.

Thanks, Ruiner,
Actually, the power still turns on and the power supply still delivers 5 and 12va dc and the lights turn on as well; however, the loader does not do its the initial spin and the units shows a "No disc" message and when I push the "open" button, nothing happens at the loader, and the led message changes instantly to something else that I can't read and back to the "no disc" msg. That is why I assume that when I accidentally reversed the wires, the 12V dc input damaged something in the 5v dc circuit of the loader; may be the motors? Any other possibilities?? Is there anything in the 5V dc circuit of the loader that, if damaged, may prevent the motors from spinning?
Thanks.
BenJF3 and Cavu,
Thank you for your comments; however, I did the cap mod to the unit when brand new and in the power supply all looks OK, including the replacement 35V, 1000 cap. To make certain, I have connected the loader to a working power supply from another player and it would not spin or open either.
In your opinion, is it worth to take the loader to a repair shop?

On another issue, the Bravo, when upsampling the signal from a DVD to 720p does it do it in the standard definition color space Rec 601 or in the HD space Rec 709?
Thanks.
Fermin

...is it worth to take the loader to a repair shop?
Absolutely not, considering the cost of all other options.

Here's what I would do. Find a DVD ROM (virtually any Lite On should play a DVD) and hook it up. If the Bravo plays the disc the order the EPO directly from Vinc. It's worth the $27 if that's all that's wrong with it. If you somehow fried the logic board, then it might not be worth anything. If you don't have a DVD ROM to try it still might be worth ordering the EPO loader to try. There are still people on here that would buy a broken D1 for parts. Hope it works out for you. The D1 is an awesome player when paired up with a 4805 or IN72!

Agree with BenJF3. I'd only add that nearly any loader would work, not just a Lite-On. I pulled one from an old POS Daewoo (DVD5700) I was about to toss and it worked fine in the Bravo. Pulled one from a dead JVC DVD Recorder (DR-MS1) and it worked great. Pulled one from...well, you get the idea.

Is V inc still in business, I can't seem to find them.

Is V inc still in business, I can't seem to find them.Y'know ... if you type 'vinc' into Google (http://www.google.ca/search?q=vinc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a), they are the first item found!! :confused:

And yet if you write cavu a PM, he doesn't reply! ;)

Y'know ... if you type 'vinc' into Google (http://www.google.ca/search?q=vinc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a), they are the first item found!! :confused:
I did and Vizio comes up.

Vizio is the same as Vinc.

I guess what I meant was do they still make the Bravo dvd players . They are not on the website.

Bravo D1 has been discontinued for a while. There were some on Newegg that were supposedly "counterfeit" although it's the same crappy build with the same crappy parts as the original :D

And yet if you write cavu a PM, he doesn't reply! ;) :confused: Huh?

Bravo D1 has been discontinued for a while. There were some on Newegg that were supposedly "counterfeit" although it's the same crappy build with the same crappy parts as the original :D

My D1 is still kicken and I never had any problems with it. I thought about getting an Oppo 981 but don't know if it makes any sense until I upgrade to a 1080p display. I have a 720p projector now.

I thought about getting an Oppo 981 but don't know if it makes any sense until I upgrade to a 1080p display.How does getting a 981 "make sense" for a 1080p display!? :confused: You are just "upscaling" a 480i image which the display is already doing!? :eek:

:confused: Huh?
cavu,

I've sent you a couple of PMs, but have yet to hear back from you. Thought maybe you were pissed at me for some reason, or maybe even on another vacation to Timbuktu like last year...but I see you posting, so the latter can't be the case. :confused:

You didn't get them? Any ideas why not?

You didn't get them? Any ideas why not?My inbox is perpetually full! I've just emptied out about 450 messages; try again.

[QUOTE=BenJF3]Here's what I would do. Find a DVD ROM (virtually any Lite On should play a DVD) and hook it up. If the Bravo plays the disc the order the EPO directly from Vinc.

I have found a lite-on LTD-163 loader and tried on the Bravo and the Bravo is back delivering its gorgeous images. This loader is noisy when loading and getting ready to show the dvd files; however, when actually playing a dvd the noise level is not bad at all. It plays store dvds, dvd+R and dvd+RW w/o a tick. The original Fuss loader would not play RW dvds. I am again a happy camper :D . Thank you all for directing me to this solution.
BenJF3, if the lite-on loader works, why would you go back to Vizio's original driver other than for ergonomics reasons? Would I not be better off permanently mounting the lite-on on the Bravo? Many users have reported success this way.
By the way, I am using the original modded PS to power the front dvd board and the Sigma board and a PS from another dvd player (now permanently screwed inside the the Bravo box, to power the loader. It al works great and fast and I hope I will not have to go back to the kinky behavior common to the Bravo and the dreadful interruptions and power offs!
Cheers!!

My D1 won't power up. I get a brief dim blue light and then nothing. Is there anything I can do to get it to work? It's out of warranty so I'm not gonna send it back to Vizio. Just wondering if I missed something.

My D1 won't power up. I get a brief dim blue light and then nothing. Is there anything I can do to get it to work? It's out of warranty so I'm not gonna send it back to Vizio. Just wondering if I missed something.

That sounds like the cap needs replacing. Check the other Bravo D1 thread for info on how to do it.

FGM - the reason to get an EPO loader from Vizio was strictly for ease of installation. If you want to take the time and mod other units to fit and additional power supplies to run it, by all means do that as it will work to. If you want a straight "plug and play" replacement, you have to go with an OEM loader.

Vidmaven - Have you done the cap mod to the power supply? If not, I would start there.

That sounds like the cap needs replacing. Check the other Bravo D1 thread for info on how to do it.
Thanks I'll do that.
Found it:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701

http://flying-colors.org/bravo/

I sense yet another D1 coming back from the grave...all for the astronomical cost of $1.59! :D

I thought my D1 was dead the other day. I was trying to find my unlabeled test disc, and was just trying out all the discs. I put one in, and it just sat there saying ISO CD and wouldn't eject. I could power it off and back on, but it would just try to load again. I finally got up the will to try opening it up again (last time I couldn't get the cover to come all the way off).

It came right off this time, and I got to the task of disassembling it enough to get the disc out. Of course, the spindle was up, so it didn't just slide out conveniently, so I had to detach the loader, take the metal cover off the top, flip it over and detach the motor, then I could pull the spindle down and slide the disc out.

It turns out that it was crapping out trying to load an Ubuntu 6.06 boot DVD :eek: I reassembled the player and powered it on again, and the loader was still fine (thankfully). It will now eject and play discs, but I'm not going to put that ubuntu disc back in :D

It's fit enough again to have watched Snakes on a Plane last night :p

Well, as I have recently reported, my Bravo DY1 is back in service again after I replace the Fuss loader with a Lite-on 163. Last night I watched the dvd film Shadowboxer, in DVI and there were lots and lots of artifacts of the kind we see where there are grids/close parallel lines/shiny strips etc. It is a very annoying experience. I had noticed this type of artifacts with the Bravo before but they were not common.
Have anyone noticed this type of artifacts with the Bravo? Is this behavior film/dvd dependent? Is there anything we can do to fix this or minimize it?
Thanks for any/all comments/help.
Fermin

Is this behavior film/dvd dependent? Is there anything we can do to fix this or minimize it?
Yes, it's typically film-realted. Not much you can do, though sometimes a bad batch of discs will escape the factory. Try another copy of the exact same film and see if it persists - or - throw the disc in a different player and look for the same issues (given that the other player is capable of reproducing them).

Got sick of the **** Fuss loader and tried numerous DVD drives i had laying around, a old Toshiba from 2000, model 1112 i think, works fine, swapped the tray bezel over and used duct tape to hold it in for now and it works great, alot faster loading times and never a hangup loading.
D1 Has new life!!

Hi,

MyD1 is acting up again and getting serious that all the problem occurs such as hangup loading, frozen screen, skipping. I have done the capacitor mod already, so it seems to me that it is time to replace the loader. I think it is best to go with the EPO loader. Can anyone tell me where I can buy one? I contacted Vizio from the information on the thread, but can not reach anyone. Please advise.

Thanks a lot.

Can anyone tell me where I can buy one?Contact Mark at techsupport@vinc.com

Hey guys - I'm no longer using my Bravo D1 so if anyone is interested in it just PM me. I replaced the loader a year or so ago (search back in this thread for details) and its been great since. Of course YMMV! At any rate its a great player or perhaps you can use it for parts. Note that I did not do any capacitor or power supply mods - just changed the loader.

Hi,

MyD1 is acting up again and getting serious that all the problem occurs such as hangup loading, frozen screen, skipping. I have done the capacitor mod already, so it seems to me that it is time to replace the loader. I think it is best to go with the EPO loader. Can anyone tell me where I can buy one? I contacted Vizio from the information on the thread, but can not reach anyone. Please advise.

Thanks a lot.

I am having the same problems as you but these abnormalities happen only with movies i have on dvd+-r. What is the cost for the EPO loader ? Would any ol DVD Ram drive work with the unit ?

Contact Mark at techsupport@vinc.com

Thanks for your reply. I sent an email to the above address.

I have never received any reply from the techsupport@vinc.com. Does anyone know any alternative way to contact the support for EPO loader?

Thanks,
--Tom

Call the VInc/Vizio office (949.428.2525) and ask for Mark or Ophilia.

I contact Mark and got transfer to Hugo ext 2546. I order one for $27. I will be waiting for the loader to come. Thank you very much for providing the information. :)

Call the VInc/Vizio office (949.428.2525) and ask for Mark or Ophilia.

Tom, can you confirm if they are shipping the newer (better) EPO loader? I would assume so, but, they could still be shipping the Fuss loader. Can beat $27 to your door though!

Hi BenJF3,

I ordered the loader from Hugo on Dec. 06. After numerous phone calls, the fedex tracking still shows packaged information transferred to Fedex only since the day I placed my order. I do not understand why? I just tried to call Hugo again and again, but can not always reach him. I then called the Vizio customer service today because the number to reach Hugo always transfer me to technical support. After 20min talking to customer service who check with Fedex and confirm that only documentation is received on Dec. 06. She then promised to call me back when she straighten up the problem. By the time I am typing this message, I still have not heard anything. :(

--Tom

I wish you could get these loaders from Newegg or Tiger or one of the AVS sponsors. My Fuss loader works but is extremely sensitive to the most minor blemishes on a disc surface and ends up skipping. It also has become very picky with the initial load of the DVD. I usually have to eject it and reload it again to get it working right. cavu stated the newer EPO loader was much better than the prior OEM Fuss loader. I want to get ahold of one because the D1 puts out such a spectacular picture when pixel mapped with an IN72. Sorry to hear you are having trouble with Vizio. Please report as to how this gets resolved.

I called the Vizio customer service almost every day in the past week and the previous week. I heard that Hugo left the company and my order has been misplaced. Robert is the person who is responsible for parts and he was out sick. A few days ago I was excited to hear that the representative was going to process my order and ship the loader to me overnight, but it did not happen. I was frustrated, but nothing that I can do except keep making calls. I will call them again on Monday.

BTW, my order has been taken on Dec. 05 and credit card has been charged on Dec.06. As of today, I did not see my loader yet. I am really frustrated. :)

--Tom

That's terrible service. I really wish there was a third party vendor to get one from. I've searched all over and can't find anyone to get a stock loader from. I was really hoping to find out if the EPO was much better than the Fuss loader. These Fuss loaders are really flaky, but I put up with it because the picture out of the D1 is so good.

That's terrible service. I really wish there was a third party vendor to get one from. I've searched all over and can't find anyone to get a stock loader from. I was really hoping to find out if the EPO was much better than the Fuss loader. These Fuss loaders are really flaky, but I put up with it because the picture out of the D1 is so good.

There are lots of options for loaders out there. Just for shits and giggles, I've thrown a plethora of different loaders in my spare D1 and all but one of them have worked just fine. (Granted, you have to get a bit creative on the mounting, but...)

Does anyone have any specific loaders (cheap and linked - :) ) to recommend. My first D1 loader started making noises and stopped working completely a month ago. My backup D1 has the usual fussy (no pun intended) loader and won't always do playback.

Can a loader from a DVD Rom or (PC) burner work?

And, BTW, I do notice that about half the time I can get a stubborn DVD to work if I just open the drawer and reload it. But I would like a loader that would work ALL THE TIME. I like the D1's PQ.

Thanks for any help.

Does anyone have any specific loaders (cheap and linked - :) ) to recommend. My first D1 loader started making noises and stopped working completely a month ago. My backup D1 has the usual fussy (no pun intended) loader and won't always do playback.

Can a loader from a DVD Rom or (PC) burner work?

And, BTW, I do notice that about half the time I can get a stubborn DVD to work if I just open the drawer and reload it. But I would like a loader that would work ALL THE TIME. I like the D1's PQ.

Thanks for any help.

"Cheap and linked" :D I'm not too good at that, since I just took a bunch of drives out of a bucketload of various things I already owned and had just lying around. It was more for fun than anything.

However, that should answer your question about DVD-ROM and (PC) burners. For example, I used; a Lite-On DVD-ROM drive from a computer, a drive from a Daewoo stand-alone player, a drive from a JVC stand-alone DVD recorder, a Sony drive from a spare computer, a drive from a stand-alone Panny DVD recorder, a drive from...well, I forget the rest. Seriously, nearly anything should work. The hard part is getting the fit just right. Some might stick out 1/16" in an inch, while others may be recessed by that tiny amount. Also, you may not get the region option on some drives without some extra effort.

Be aware that even though I put in a bunch of different drives, there was still a possibility of having to reload the DVD from time to time. I don't think there is a drive out there that will load EVERY TIME that is a viable option for the D1...or any other unit, for that matter. That said, the minor nuisance is worth the PQ that D1 produces. :)

I called the Vizio customer service almost every day in the past week and the previous week. Send an email to all of these people (mark.mayer@vinc.com,Ofelia.Galindres@vinc.com,Ken.Friedland @vinc.com)!

Thanks Spyder. I'll give it a DIY try. I'm glad I bought two D1s when you and Cavu were touting it so strongly. Great PQ - when it works. :cool:

BTW: I can't remember having to reload a disc in my Philips 5982. (Unless it was had a dirty surface and needed cleaning) Or my Panny RP62 that I had for 4 years. (LOVED IT - but it did the spindle death thing everyone told me it would do. :( ) Now I am relying on memory with the Panny but it was a pretty reliable machine, with a great PQ. However, it would not always run burned discs and never R+. Reloading didn't help with it. If something wouldn't run the first time it wouldn't run the 2nd either.

Thanks again!

There are lots of options for loaders out there. Just for shits and giggles, I've thrown a plethora of different loaders in my spare D1 and all but one of them have worked just fine. (Granted, you have to get a bit creative on the mounting, but...)

I'm aware of that, but I'm referring specifically to loaders that wouldn't require any modding for the fit and finish. I should have specified that in my post. My Fuss loader continually requires reloading and even the most minor smudge or scratch plays havoc with it. I really like the unit, but want to get a loader that will track better.

That or get a more reliable unit that offers custom out resolution!

get a more reliable unit that offers custom out resolution!And that would be ... ??

I believe Momitsu makes one, but it's way overpriced in comparison to the Bravo. (I think it was going for like $199) I could be wrong, but I know one other manufacturer made a DVD unit with custom resolution.

The 3 choices for custom resolutions are; Momitsu, Bravo, and Snazio. All of them are rare as hell, but all of them offer delicious PQ when perfectly tweaked. Personally, I went with the D1 because of the black casing. All others are silver or silver hybrids/variants.

I believe Momitsu makes one
The 3 choices for custom resolutions are; Momitsu, Bravo, and Snazio.You guys miss my point ... BenJF3 wanted "a more reliable unit that offers custom out resolution"!

Neither of you has answered that yet! :p

You guys miss my point ... BenJF3 wanted "a more reliable unit that offers custom out resolution"!

Neither of you has answered that yet! :p

Then the answer can only be HTPC, as ALL 3 options I offered have proven to have their quirks.

Send an email to all of these people (mark.mayer@vinc.com,Ofelia.Galindres@vinc.com,Ken.Friedland @vinc.com)!

Thanks CAVU. I just called the customer service today and spoke with Robert who checked my order status and said my loader was shipped already and should be in my door on Thursday. Though I was disappointed that they did not send the loader to me via overnight as promised by a representative. I hope that I will definitely get it on Thursday.

--Tom

ALL 3 options I offered have proven to have their quirks.OK. We agree. I do not know of a completely painless custom resolution solution either.

OK. We agree. I do not know of a completely painless custom resolution solution either.

Ah, cavu. We'll always see eye to eye, my fellow "cranky" member. :) And I'm sure you'd agree one this one as well: Going the HTPC route, while one might get a loader that plays every time on the first try, is absolutely the most painFUL way to go for custom res. :D

I would like to fix this bad boy as I sold my Oppo region free player.

I see the post about the "cap" being a problem for another person that has a D1 that will not power up.

Does this sound like the problem? I get no eject and no LCD display, and when I removed the cover, the fuse appeared intact.

When I power it on, it makes a high pitched humming noise.

Help anyone?

Does this sound like the problem?REPLACE THE CAP (http://www.gray.mb.ca/bravo/) !

Agree with cavu here. It's a fix that costs a whopping $1.59.

HI,

Just a quick update on my EPO loader status. I finally received the loader from Vizio on Wednesday. The model is "EP-306A" and the same form factor as Fuss loader, so the installation is just a breeze. I tried some DVDs without any problem. The loading speed is OK, but can not say very fast. I then tried some DVD-R and seems to be OK until the third one which causes the loader keep moving the laser head back and forth and finally give up. The problem is that the DVD will not be ejected out. I have to open the cover and the loader to get the DVD out. I then tried the same DVD. I wait until it gave up before pushing any button. This time I was able to eject the DVD. :(

I then watch a few more DVDs and it seems to be fine and the image did show better than my other DVD player. Let's see how the new loader hold up to in the long run.

--Tom

Well, good to know they are shipping EPO loaders as they are supposed to be better than the Fuss loaders. I may order one up as a backup because my Fuss loader is being very picky. I usually have to re-load the DVD one or twice to get it to load properly. Ant $27 shipped isn't bad. Hopefully with it being after the holidays, I won't run into issues you did.

Good luck to you. I believe my case might be a little bit too extreme.

--Tom

OT, but I just put my V1 back into service. Since netflix (my only source for media) dropped HD-DVD, there was no reason to deal with the long boot time of my A2.
Hopefully the V1 will last long enough for BD prices to drop into the ~200 range.

Help w/ Bravo D1: After scanning this site & some of the threads searched for Bravo D1, for over an hour (too much is too technical for me). I think someone here might be able to help me with repair options......

My Bravo D1 gave up the ghost two weeks back. The loader would not eject DVDs, so I pulled the case to see what was going on, and retrieved the DVD. Unit still worked when I put another DVD in. Watched for a while & took a break. About 20 minutes later the DVD drive quite spinning. I spun the disk w/ my finger & it started playing again. Finished my movie. Next day, nothing. Powers up, but will not eject., nor will drive spin now.

A week after it died, I went & got a Pioneer DV400V and a HDMI-to-DVI cable. But the new player does not play to the full wide screen format as the D1 did, no matter which way I set it.

So, I have some semi-technical skills, but not to the point of repairing circuit boards. Any suggestions on repairs and parts that can be shared. I love this unit for the picture I get w/ my TV & little projector. email is: tharkun@bellsouth.net

Thanks in advance.

Any suggestions
Bravo D1 Capacitor Replacement Instructions (http://gray.mb.ca/bravo/)

Go here: http://oppodigital.com/dv981hd/dv981hd_index.html

Be done with the archaic Bravo. It's worth the $229, trust me.

Go here: http://oppodigital.com/dv981hd/dv981hd_index.html

Be done with the archaic Bravo. It's worth the $229, trust me.

Thanks! Laughter makes a great way to start the day. Got any more jokes?

Sure spyder, try this: buy an "advanced" electronic product that (when it works) produces a nice product, but alas; you'll need to replace the loader with the one out of your pc AND replace some caps just to keep it working.

I made my first post about changing the loader on D1s 5 years ago . Folks are still talking about those same issues now and more!

The fact that some are still willing to accept that is better than any joke I could tell you.

Well, I did the CAP repair tonight Thanks for pointing me in the right direction CAVU & all well with it the replacement. But the damn drive still won't work. I took it apart to check & the drive motor for the DVD spindle is dead. So I guess I'll try calling Visio & see what they have to replace it with......

Sure spyder, try this: buy an "advanced" electronic product that (when it works) produces a nice product, but alas; you'll need to replace the loader with the one out of your pc AND replace some caps just to keep it working.

I made my first post about changing the loader on D1s 5 years ago . Folks are still talking about those same issues now and more!

The fact that some are still willing to accept that is better than any joke I could tell you.

No, the fact that some are willing to pay $250 for an SD player is hilarious (regardless of how good it is) when there are far superior units on the market for ridiculously less that offer ridiculously more. Hell, I paid a mere $80 for my 60GB PS3!

The Bravo is an outstanding value. I bought 4 at $30 each, put a measly $1.59 (per cap) into them and they're all still going strong. Just for kicks, I've thrown 7 different, random loaders into one unit and every last drive has worked flawlessly. The cost of ALL 4 players, 7 loaders, and caps? Still less than one Oppo that does the same thing, but at an astronomical price that I hardly consider to be a value in even the most liberal sense of the word.

The fact that the D1 is still so popular after 5+ years is a living, breathing tribute to its greatness.

I made my first post about changing the loader on D1s 5 years agoYeah. And you were wrong! :eek:

The achilles' heel of the D1 was not the loader but a faulty capacitor in the power supply.

Certainly better loaders exist but they provide no better PQ. Some loaders would present a slightly different load on the power supply and the D1 would sometimes work a little longer but it would ultimately fail altogether, regardless of the loader in use.

The simple cure was and is to replace the $1.59 capacitor as outlined in the link above.
The fact that some are still willing to accept that is better than any joke I could tell you.Well, the actual fact is that no player at any price has surpassed the 854x480 @48Hz, 1:1 pixel-mapped image produced by the D1/D2 players and the other Sigma 8500 chipset Momitsu 880 and SnaZio 1300 units.

And at this late stage of the game, no contender is even on the horizon.

.

After much calling and innumerable transfers from one area to the next at Visio, and to parts suppliers and back; I finally got a hold of some one who new what they were talking about at Visio\V-Inc. There are some Bravo D1 loaders available through their parts section for $25 each, plus shipping. I eventually spoke with a gentleman named Joe at 877-668-8462, ext 2671. He checked stock and is shipping me 2 loaders (getting a spare just in case). Thanks for the assistance and keeping this thread alive! Will report success when the loaders get here.

Cheers.

You should be getting the newer EPO loader as that was reported to be what was shipping from the last person who needed one. Reports say it is a better and more stable loader than the OEM Fuss loader. Please post back with your results.

I could not find EPO loader....will report.

Well, the two Bravo D1 loaders arrived today. They are EPO DP306A loaders!

I installed it and works great. Between the CAP repair and the EPO loader, this seems to have cleared up the old idiosyncrasies. We'll see how it goes.

I still cannot understand why the Pioneer I bought originally to replace the D1 cannot play video at 1080i or 1080p on this same equipment when the Bravo 1 does. The Pioneer claims to be able to "up convert" to 1080i and 1080p just like the D1, but it does not. So much for truth in advertising. I think the Pioneer is going back to the dealer for a refund.

Thanks for the advice to everyone.

v/r

I returned my Toshiba A2 this past weekend to Walmart and will use the D1 and PS3 (still to buy) for DVD and Blu-Ray. If you bought the A2 at Wallmart, tomorrow is the last day to get a full refund.

Gee, and where was my crystal ball? Considering that your cap replacement came years after I was ready to take a gun to my D1, I don't feel bad.

I'm willing to give up a little PQ for the comfort of dependability.


Yeah. And you were wrong! :eek:

I replaced my cap a while ago, D1 was working great, now it won't even turn on, haven't used it that much (maybe 10 movies since the mod), been using another unit, but now I either need to get it working or junk it.

I haven't pulled it apart, but is there anythign I should be looking at other than the cap? I put a 35 monster cap in if I recall (my wife stopped by and got 25 and 35, I figured no harm in the 35).

I've never had loader issues, though again I haven't been that heavy a DVD user.

If I recall correctly (I did the cap mod last year), I was having similar issues - whole player basically seemed dead, wouldn't turn on, which seems to point to power supply issues.

Replace the cap again.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

One more Q: I'm planning to replace my projector (Dwin TV3 having problems), has anyone had any issues with a DVI->HDMI converter in using their Bravo D1 with any current projectors? What about into a processor like an Edge?

Bravo D1 has no trouble feeding my 1280X720X60Hz Mits HD1000u PJ. I'm not sure it's worth the headaches if you're using an external processor or a good scaling PJ due to unreliability of Bravo D1. The strong point of Bravo is to bypass scaling and customize resolution to match the native resolution of the PJ. If you're just using 480i to feed a nice scaler or nice-scaling PJ, I would ditch the Bravo, especially if its cap is busted.

Hmm, makes perfect sense - so what I really need is a cheap, reliable DVD player that won't even deinterlace but will output 480i over component, or even better HDMI. Do they exist or will they all want to deinterlace to 480p, meaning I can only scale but not have my processor/projector do both, which I'd of course prefer so that it can both deinterlace (and hopefully do proper 3:2 pulldown etc.) and scale (which of course needs to be done after deinterlacing).

Hmm, maybe my old Sony DVP-S7000 (or was it an S7700, now I can't remember) would be exactly what I need - I don't think they were progressive scan back then, and it had component output, as well as a great remote (useful to program the Harmony if it doesn't have t) and a killer transport.

I'll probably do a JVC RS20, fed from a DVDO Edge, more so for video switching, plus upscaling of crappy inputs like SD DirecTV, and ability to string a single HDMI cable to the ceiling mounted projector, than because I have any problems with the processing in the RS20.

Anyone interested in a Bravo D1? I upgraded and have one already custom set for the IN72 (which I upgraded and am selling too - $500 and included new spare lamp). The Bravo has the cap mod done already as well and has all original packaging and materials. $50. PM if interested otherwise next stop is auction for best offer.

I just did the Cap mod on the Bravo D1 that I have been using for about 3 years. I was hoping it would get it working again, it did not.

The past 10 times I used the dvd player I needed to power cycle it several times to get a dvd to play. Now it locks up after about 10 seconds of being turned on, same as before I did the Cap Mod.

I have read all the posts in this thread and some in others and have not found a solution.

The best info I can give is, With the loader disconnected (power and data cable) I turn on the player and hit the setup button on the remote. After a few seconds I am unable to arrow through the options. If it hit the power button on the remote and then turn it on again with the remote, I get the same frozen setup screen. If I unplug or use the switch on the front it reboots and is responsive for about 10 seconds. If I wait and then go into the setup, I get the setup screen but do not see the options. I can toggle back to the welcome screen but if I go back to setup there are still no options. One other clue, when the unit is responsive I get interference dots moving across the screen, when it locks up the dots stop moving as well.

My guess it the power supply is not providing good 9v- 9v+ or 5v any more and is causing it to lock up. I have a older Daewo dvd player that had similar problems, It used a 5v 12v power supply. Replacing it with one from an old SCSI enclosure fixed the problem. I would like to change out the power supply but don't know where to find one. Unfortunately my multimeter is too beat up to see if the correct power is getting to the video board.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, sorry if I am in the wrong thread.

thanks

Sea Dog

...Any suggestions would be appreciated, sorry if I am in the wrong thread...

Hmmm. Unless you're absolutely instistant on fixing this one, I'd suggest getting a replacement. D1s are incredibly cheap now...if you can find one.

Seadog, if you want mine, $50 shipped. In mint condition with all the fixes. Let me know. I have everything that it came with.Drop me a PM if you want it.

Thanks for the replys.

Not sure what I am going to do yet. I am considering buying a new dvd player (with a warranty) from a company that is still in business and actively supporting them. The Panasonic DVD-S54K seem like it has very few posts to the negative on this site.

The biggest features that I need are: mpeg4, divx, and xvid support. Next is S-video. I still have a tube TV... So up scaling is not a priority now.

Maybe I will get another D1, especially if one is available in the Twin Cities area (Minnesota).

As far as the D1 that I have, there is the fun factor of bringing back from the dead. So if you have an idea on how I can fix it, I will dig it out of the crawl space.

Thanks,

Sea Dog MN

Sounds good SeaDog. If you want mine, let me know. I'll throw in the DVI and HSMI cables and adapters if you need them.

If you don't need upscaling, don't bother with Bravo D1. With or Without upscaling you can do a lot better, cheaper with Phillips 5990 or 5992 (Costco for $40 after coupons + tax) which will do region free, USB2.0, DivX, and much, much more reliable.

If you insists on fixing your Bravo D1, you can buy another EPO loader for $30 from Vizio (V, inc.)--read info on this thread.

If you don't need upscaling, don't bother with Bravo D1. With or Without upscaling you can do a lot better, cheaper with Phillips 5990 or 5992 (Costco for $40 after coupons + tax) which will do region free, USB2.0, DivX, and much, much more reliable.

If you insists on fixing your Bravo D1, you can buy another EPO loader for $30 from Vizio (V, inc.)--read info on this thread.

Yea, but will the Phillips do pixel mapping? That was where the D1 really shined. There was a night and day difference between any old SD DVD player and the D1 properly configured for pixel mapping with my IN72. That's really what gives it value. I think everyone wishes they were more reliable.

Partly off topic question:
I'm planning on upgrading from a ReplayTV to a TivoHD.
Which unit (Tivo or D1) gets my TV's single DVI port?

take a look at the DVDO EDGE HDMI switch and video processor so you can use Digital RGB from both.

Which unit (Tivo or D1) gets my TV's single DVI port?Not to rain on Jim Noyd's parade ( :rolleyes: ) but:


Get the Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4088&seq=1&format=2)4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0) for under $30 !! (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4088&seq=1&format=2)



http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/40881.jpg

Agree (once again/as always ;)) with cavu here. I have both the 2-port (forget the model #) and 5-port (HDX-501) HDMI switchers from monoprice and they are both excellent and insanely inexpensive! :)

There are, of course, those that would recommend products that cost 10X more to get a perceived 1% gain in PQ/SQ. :D :(

Cavu,
My D1 has been acting up so I'm re-replacing the 1000uf cap as is the standard mod for this board.

The big 47uf 400wv cap also looks bad....it's leaked and the plastic around the base has melted. Suggestions to source a replacement?

Edit:
Will a 250WV 47uF cap do the trick since I'm on 110v US? They seem more plentiful online than 400wv.

The big 47uf 400wv cap also looks bad....it's leaked and the plastic around the base has melted.I suspect it is just glue. Send a photo.

Cavu,
My D1 has been acting up so I'm re-replacing the 1000uf cap as is the standard mod for this board.

The big 47uf 400wv cap also looks bad....it's leaked and the plastic around the base has melted. Suggestions to source a replacement?

Same as cavu, i believe that's just hot glue.

Edit:
Will a 250WV 47uF cap do the trick since I'm on 110v US? They seem more plentiful online than 400wv.

No, it won't. It'll blow. The way that power supply is configured, you have 350V going through that cap regardless of input voltage.

I suspect it is just glue. Send a photo.
I think you're correct.


http://s3.supload.com/free/img_2168.jpg/view/

Yep that's glue. A blown capacitor would be puffed up at the top with black crap leaking from the center of the puff.

A blown capacitor would be puffed up at the top with black crap leaking from the center of the puff.Sometimes. Not always. :cool:

I could not believe that this thread is still alive since I started it in 2003.:eek:

I have moved on to BluRay.............BUT still use the old D1 for Std. DVD.

I guess we can thank "cavu" for keeping this alive.:D

I could not believe that this thread is still alive since I started it in 2003.:eek:

I have moved on to BluRay.............BUT still use the old D1 for Std. DVD.

I guess we can thank "cavu" for keeping this alive.:D
Yes thanks.

And just think VIZIO got started as V, Inc. with the Bravo D1 and a 46" Plasma TV.

I guess we can thank "cavu" for keeping this alive.:o

Guys I have a fully-functioning Bravo D2 that I want to part with (sell). I have everything, manual, original box, remote, & D2. It always received lots of TLC.

Send and IM if you know anyone that may be interested.

thanks