Originally posted by Liquidated
A friend has an older version Hitachi 61sdx10b whose convergence problems are glaringly obvious on dvd + level content.

trying to get to the manual convergence but pressing magic focus a send time merely cancels the operation.

Has the standard f500 era remote, but cannot seem to get into the manual convergence. Spent the requisit hour + searching this forum, koeh and google in general btw.

Anyone still read this thread that can help?=)


Cheers!
-Liquidated


Maybe shoot gambrelw a PM, he's pretty familiar with calibrating Hitachis.

Matt

I have the 51s500 and when I push the "magic focus" button, It just says "static mode" in big letters and has just a big crosshair on the screen changing colors.

Anyone know how to get out of this mode?

Also, When I go into the "service menu" mode and pick "service" it seems to switch to a mode that the screen cannot display. The "isf mode" menu works fine though.

Could someone please help me!?:(

Hello,

Posted this in the 5xS715 thread, but giving this a shot as well.

I picked up a 57S715 less than a week ago and love it so far. I was hoping for some help with the service menu.

At this point I have gotten into the service menu and changed values in the ISF MODE submenu. I was looking around at the other submenus and did a couple things that I am probably just being paranoid about, but would love if anyone can let me know if I did something harmless or really bad.

The first is I went into the SERVICE submenu and got a blank screen with a think horizontal line across the middle. I did nothing more and hit exit. I read elsewhere in this or another post that doing so is not a problem, but I am just making sure.

The second is that I continued down the list looking into some other submenus until I got to AFC, which after hitting right-arrow did not go into more options but simply put a check in the box next to AFC. Hitting right or left arrow again did not remove the check. After exiting, powering down, and going back into service mode AFC was no longer checked. I am just worried since I don't know what it is or what it does.

Any help is appreciated and will likely help me sleep at night.

The only reason I bothered looking in other submenus, that I should know better to stay out of, was because I originally had trouble saving my ISF MODE changes. I know... it says press Select right on the screen. I must have been just adjusting the values then hitting down arrow to move on down the list rather than hitting Select to save each one.

Thanks!

P.S. Off-topic... that has to be Liquidated from The Concert Hall, I recognize the sig. I was Shada way back then, dunno if you remember the name.

Originally posted by Liquidated
A friend has an older version Hitachi 61sdx10b whose convergence problems are glaringly obvious on dvd + level content.

trying to get to the manual convergence but pressing magic focus a send time merely cancels the operation.

Has the standard f500 era remote, but cannot seem to get into the manual convergence. Spent the requisit hour + searching this forum, koeh and google in general btw.

Anyone still read this thread that can help?=)


Cheers!
-Liquidated http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2368657#post2368657

Originally posted by Parker Lewis
I have the 51s500 and when I push the "magic focus" button, It just says "static mode" in big letters and has just a big crosshair on the screen changing colors.

Anyone know how to get out of this mode?

Also, When I go into the "service menu" mode and pick "service" it seems to switch to a mode that the screen cannot display. The "isf mode" menu works fine though.

Could someone please help me!?:( WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly) To fix your STATIC MODE, simply open the front panel of the set (while powered on)and hit the blue DCU reset button (on the left side). Then rerun through the manual convergence instructions http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2368657#post2368657 and be sure not to omit steps 16-21.

I own a Hitachi 51SWX20B and am interested in getting a professional ISF Calibration done. Can anyone recommend someone in the Wichita, KS area?

Thx.

Just wanted to thank you guys for the replies. I think most of us "Noobs" are having difficulty getting started just due to the AMOUNT of info available between all the threads and archived threads. Not until today when I found the linked picture with accompanying info on manual focus without screen removal was I going to try this without having hands-on help (ie having someone from the forum with experience show me how to do it properly). I feel comfortable now at least trying the basic manual focus.

What do you guys think of the Auto-Magic focus (the one not in the service menu, just while watching tv)? I'm pretty confident I can tweak 3 guns to get a tight focus, but all this pulling the colors apart and the grid has still got me confused even after reading everything here... I'm just hoping my PQ improves a lot by manually focusing the guns because when the automagic focus does its thing, the green seems slightly out of focus, but the blue is WAY WAY WAY out of focus, and i'm sure this is hurting the sharpness of the picture pretty drastically. I know the blue is to be slightly defocused from the factory (i will probably try to focus it tightly like the red and green however), but this is definately more than slight.

justin

EDIT: Anyone near me willing to come show me some tips/help?

Not sure what set you have but my comments apply to most hitachi CRT based RPTV's...

The auto (magic) focus it a bit of a misnomer - it has nothing to do with focus but is rather an auto convergence tool that loads a previously known-good convergence from memory.

If you want tight focus you will have to raise the screen, separate the colors, and do an electronic and manual focus. Do electronic, then manual, then electronic again.

The blue being out of focus is intentional and necessary. If you focus it tightly, you will notice a purple halo develop around the blue spots which will be visible in normal viewing. I highly recommend against focussing the blue gun tightly - with blue you need to find the balance between tight focus and no purple halo.

You may need to touch up your convergence after manual focus as it seems to move the grid around a bit - no big deal.

Also, be aware that a manual focus will slightly affect your grayscale as it slightly dorks with the light output from the guns so be prepared to do a grayscale adjustment after focus. You will need a color analyzer to do this properly - eyeballing grayscale is a bit tricky :-(

Dont let all this scare you off though - if your guns are out of focus you will see a vast improvement after this tweak so its worthwhile :-)

I have the 46" F500. I was aware that the blue is defocused from the factory but this is not a slight defocus, this is seriously out of focus (almost hurts my eyes to watch the blue gun during magic focus). I also knew that the magic focus was for convergence, I just wanted to know how good it was. I was not under the impression it loaded a previous "good" version. I thought it was actually doing an analysis for convergence at that time.

What I had wanted to do was run the TV for about an hour or so, do "auto magic focus", then manually focus the lens without raising the screen (this was the dealbreaker for me that will make it worthwhile), and then re-auto magic focus. I still (even after reading hundreds of posts on this stuff) don't know exactly how to pull apart the beams and do the convergence manually. I'm a visual learner by trade, and don't forget things once I've seen them, but have some trouble with written directions, since you cannot ask the words a question and get an immediate answer :)

justin

Please forgive me if I say something you're already familiar with but I don't want to leave anything out :-)

"this is seriously out of focus (almost hurts my eyes to watch the blue gun during magic focus). "

Sounds like it would benefit from a focus then - just try to avoid that halo.

"I was not under the impression it loaded a previous "good" version. I thought it was actually doing an analysis for convergence at that time. "

Yes, you can do a service level (DCAM) convergence that allows to you move the green grid as well as red and blue (unlike the user level convergence) and save it memory. Everytime you run magic focus after that, it will bring up that convergence you just created.

Magic focus is only as "good" as the convergence that was done just before it was saved to memory.

This DCAM convergence also allows you to correct speed bumps and geometry anomolies since you are able to move green. Generally you use a grid template over the screen and align green to the template, align blue and red to green, and then save to memory. After doing this, your overscan will be adjust correctly as well.

"I still (even after reading hundreds of posts on this stuff) don't know exactly how to pull apart the beams and do the convergence manually."

For the SWX20B (should work for your set too):

1. Go into the user menu convergence screen

2. Select a convergence point in the center upper half of the screen (when the screen is raised 8 inches or so, you still need to be able to see the place in the grid you are working. You wont be able to see the exact center after the screen is raised). You are choosing a center point because it is not possible for the colors to be uniformly focussed across the entire screen as the gun is different distances for the screen at every point on the screen IE the red gun is on the left so its closer to the left hand side of the screen that the right. As such, it can not be in focus both on the left and the right simultaneously. The gun in the center (green, i think - its been awhile) will have the best overall focus over the entire screen area as it is closer to being a uniform distance from the entire screen area. Since most stuff you watch has the important bits occuring center screen, you want all three guns in their sharpest focus in that area so pick a center area and focus them there.

Some people like to "average" the focus over say 3 different areas which is an option (use the below method to pull apart three areas instead of one.)

3. select red and hold the joystick left until red has been pulled way left and can be seen independantly from blue and green.

4. select blue and hold the joystick right until blue has been pulled way right and can be seen independantly from green. You will now see a dotted green line (still straight up and down), a dotted red line (wide curved to the left), and a dotted blue line (wide curved to the right)

5. Raise the screen and do the focus procedures observing these individual colored lines for each color as you go.

Note: The electronic focus is not a focus per se but rather a beam form adjustment. When you turn the electronic focus pots you will see the dots on your convergence grid changing shape - try to get them as round as possible. Then turn the lenses to get everything as sharp as possible without causing halos. The recheck the electronic focus.

And, as I'm sure you've seen in your reading, when doing the electronic focus, be very sure you are turning the focus pots and not the cuts and drives pots. If you turn the wrong pots you will be calling a tech to reset your grayscale :-)

Hope this helps :-)

Originally posted by cnjvh
5. Raise the screen and do the focus procedures observing these individual colored lines for each color as you go.



On the S500 you can focus without moving or removing the screen. You just remove the front control panel. Not sure if the F500 works the same way.

Hey all I'm back with some more questions (before I screw this up). I took off the front speaker panel, then took off the 2 grey side bars, then let the power panel hang down, and there were only 2 quarter size holes in the front. The directions I had said you could manual focus here, but I don't see how that is possible without tweezers. ;) So then I saw a panel with 6 screws below the power panel and when I took that off I can now see where the 3 guns are at. I also see a grey plastic panel with 6 screws on them. There is asian writing and English on this, the top 3 say SCREEN and the bottom 3 say FOCUS. Are the 3 that say focus what is being called electronic focus? Should I first adjust these, and then do the manual focus, then do the electronic again as mentioned before?

A couple specific questions:

1. If this is right, what screen should I be in when adjusting the ELECTRONIC focus? Just use magic focus (manual magic focus and separate the colors), or do I need a service level setting? I heard someone said something about dots, but wouldn't they be all white? That would make it tough to separate what I'm looking at right?

2. I CANNOT find the wingnuts on the guns to loosen in order to do a manual focus. I spent 15minutes looking all over the damn things and don't see any wingnuts. The picture I had printed out I believe I found somewhere in this thread, but I'm at a loss. Does anyone with the f500 know if they used a different screw or something?

Here's what I'm thinking after further thought : [Bold] The 46" model I have has a smaller screen so its possible with a larger model that removing this part would give access. My guess is that I have to remove the screen (or at least raise it). This will sound dumb but, where is the focus wingnut, ABOVE the lamp or below it. I would assume ABOVE since most things are focused after the light source. All I can see is the back end of what looks like the lamp, ie it looks like the back side of a headlight for a car. Is the manual focus ABOVE this point?[Bold]

I'm going to put the parts back together until I get a response here, because I don't want to mess anything up, but I'm at least confident I know what I'm looking at now. Please guys help me out and make sure what i'm describing is what i'm looking at. I don't have access to take a picture and upload it labeled (that would be great if anyone could do that for me), so I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible.

Thanks again,

Justin

Are the 3 that say focus what is being called electronic focus? Should I first adjust these, and then do the manual focus, then do the electronic again as mentioned before?Yes...just be careful not to touch the SCREEN knobs.

For the manual focus...just feel around the outer covernig of the lens for the wingnuts. You simply loosen it when you find it so you can rotate the lens just like a camera lens.

But what I'm saying is that I think due to my tv being 46", it cannot be accessed without removing the screen. Where is the wingnut located? Above or below the lamp/bulb thing. And what should I use for the electronic focus? What test pattern? I own Avia, so I could use that.

You are correct, the wingnut is on the lens on top of the CRTs. I guess the 46" may not have access through the control panel location. I believe I used the Magic Focus screen with the RGB grids separated from each other for both kinds of focus. You can use the Avia screen with the white dots for blue focus....just try to eliminate the halo or purple fringe around the dot.

Matt

There should be an access panel on the back to access the lenses.

And I read that someone got burn in just from using the magic focus screen for about 15min. Now i'm sure it would take me AT LEAST as long to do electronic, manual, and then electronic again. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere there was a setting to lower the contrast of that test pattern. For some reason regardless of the contrast setting, magic focus puts that grid up at or near 100% contrast.

justin

To reduce the contrast of the magic focus grid, go into the service menu (press input + power on control panel) and adjust DCUCNT0.

Sweet! Any estimate to how low I should set it (ie 5stops lower or something)? I don't want to go to low and mess up something by not focusing at high enough contrast.

I'm just rereading everything and getting up the courage to take off the screen (have to for my model apparently) and then I'm going to do this.

justin

Update! I just recentered the screen using the service level menu, and it was off about 1 "click" horizontal, and about 4 "clicks" vertical (the screen was positioned well below where it should be). Now here's the wierd thing: It still needs to be moved up another 2 clicks or so but as I kept clicking down it just stopped moving? Seems like I hit a basement setting or something. Doesn't really matter as i'm now almost perfectly centered. This was all done using the Avia test pattern showing %overscan to center the picture.

Also, I cannot seem to find (i've been searching for an hour) how to save the settings in the ISF menu. Apparently my settings were saved in the main service level menu (the horizontal and vertical settings i just mentioned), but when I exit, power down the tv, and reenter the ISF menu, my contrast setting (SUBCNTO), the SUBBRT setting, and the DCUCNT0 settings are all back to where they were. I've tried pressing a couple buttons to attempt to "save", but have not had any luck.

One last thing. Can someone check to see what there SUBBRTH setting is. It was set on my tv at 7F, and I'm concerned that when I tweaked the tv 9 months ago that I mistakenly changed this value instead of SUBBRT (as you can see they are almost identical). Just want to make sure that the SUBBRTH wasn't something messing up my picture.

justin

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2703575&&#post2703575

default = SUBBRTH 7F

Dang it! Thanks Marc, I had read that before and tried it, but forgot that you had to hit select EVERY time you wanted to save a value. I thought I could just hit select at the end and it would save all the changes. THanks again. <edit> just saw you had the default setting (thats what mine was at). It just happened to be identical to what was recommended for the almost identical setting (of course ;) ).


Also while changing the DCUCNT0 level I saw that directly above is DCUBR (or something very close to that). It would seem to me this is the brightness (black level) setting for the magic focus menu. Any reason why I should lower this value as well? I know that brightness is the black level, but can this:

1: cause some sort of burn in itself?

2: should it be set lower to properly focus the beams?

justin

Also,

You are correct, DCUBRT0 is brightness. I've never adjusted it so can't help. To deal with your limited vertical adjustment, DCAM can be used to adjust. On the F500 you can use the 'Freeze' button to move the entire grid or if you move the cursor to a different point it will let you move the entire line. Just make sure you follow the steps to complete magic focus initialiation. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2368657&&#post2368657

Thanks. Last question (hopefully) For screen removal I read several different directions and none really agree on how many screws are needed to be removed. I figure:

remove the speaker panel, remove the 2 grey things on either side of the power button/imput/magic focus panel, remove the power button panel and let it hang.

remove the 6 screws holding the plate that covers the lower portion of the guns (where I can adjust the electronic static focus)

-remove the 6 or so screws from around the perimeter of the screen (accessed from the back of the tv)

Are there any other screws that need to be removed, or tabs that have to be pressed before lifting the screen? I'm going to go the route of only lifting about 8 inches so I can get my hands inside but still use the screen to focus...

justin

Removing the screen on the tabletops is different than the other sets (much more difficult). I started to try and figure it out on my 43" but I decided it wasn't worth the effort. YMMV

I cannot seem to get my pioneer 59avi dvd player to work thru the dvi input anymore on my hitachi 51gwx20b.
I was using a hdmi to dvi connector and running a monster dvi cable to the set.
It worked fine for months now I get nothing .
the player acts like there is no connection even after i have disconnected and reconnected from the set to get the hdcp handshake.even tried a different cable with no results.any suggestions on how to trouble shoot my dvi input to see if it still works? thanks

Get another device with DVI output? May be easier said than done... I know my PC video card has DVI output. But you need to pinpoint whether the problem is at the TV or the DVD player.

Matt

DCUCNT0 and DCUBRT0 only adjust the levels of black level and white level in DCAM mode. They have no affect on anything else.

Bill

Removing the screen on the tabletops is different than the other sets (much more difficult). I started to try and figure it out on my 43" but I decided it wasn't worth the effort. YMMV

I got the screen off fine. What you have to do is remove the screws around the perimeter of the screen on the top and sides (i think there are 4 on top and 3 or 4 on each side). Then just remove the 4 screws at the base of the screen (make sure it is being supported as it may try to fall out) and voila! But it doesn't matter much for anything but cleaning the lenses and if you were going to do that duventene (sp) lining or lens striping.


What I cannot do with it however, is move it up a couple of inches as others have done. I can either remove it, or keep it on, but there is no way I have seen to raise it a few inches without it sitting at an angle (and thus throwing off the focus). I'm going to play around with the string trick sometime in the next couple of days (when it gets cooler out here, its been 90+ and humid every day this week and I don't have central air).

I just really don't want to have to move the speakers and tv around to get in through the back.

justin

Edit: Quick additional question. During black scenes (ie no signal going to the TV) the screen has a red tint to it and its not completely uniform. Is this something I can fix (i've heard the tape trick over the lip of the red lens) and I've also heard this is a greyscale problem. Any quick fixes for this?

I have the 65t500. Does anyone know how to disable the shaded box that highlights the channel for a few seconds, appears in the top right corner whenever you change channels or inputs? Strange question i know but it drives me nuts when i'm surfing. Thanks in advance.

Well I finally got around to finishing the work on this tv. Did it 2 days ago before I put the AC downstairs so it was about 90degrees in the house. After much fighting with myself I decided to go in through the back of the set and focus onto a piece of white paper taped to the inside of the screen.

It was actually EASIER to focus on the paper than through the screen from the front due to the image being projected directly on the paper rather than through the screen (makes it appear a little more diffuse). I was waiting to get electrocuted since you cannot see the wingnuts from the back so you have to reach around the lens and find it. Fortunately I did not get zapped.

One thing I would mention for others going to do this is to be very observant when tightening the wingnuts back. What I found was that on 2 (out of 3) occasions the torque applied to the nut would move the lens slightly out of focus, so you have to undershoot in the focus a TINY bit so that when tightened its in "perfect" focus.

Got everthing back together and SD TV defiantely looks a bit cleaner but HD and dvd really don't so I'm thinking it did improve the clarity a bit, but not as much as I had hoped. It's also possible that I didn't focus perfectly as it was difficult to find the exact spot that was most in focus. Hope this helps anyone else.

justin

EDIT: One thing I found which made me a bit annoyed was that the blue gun was MANUALLY defocused, NOT electric/static defocused. So i first had to attempt (difficult) to focus a defocused blue using the electronic focus, then do the manual focus, then electric again, then manual again, then electric to make sure I was getting the focus tight. Then I played around with the electronic focus to see about the halo's, but was too lazy to put Avia in, so that will wait for another day.

justin

I would like to try and fix the geometry on my 51S500 by first doing the coarse adjustment (3x3), the medium (7x9) and finally the fine (13x9) digital convergence. However, I can't seem to get the coarse or medium adjusmtent grids to come up.

I noticed in the service manual as well as the intructions provided in this thread for convergence that those other grids "only work when DCU is in uncorrected state". Could this possibly be why I can't get into these other grids? Is there a way to put the DCU in an uncorrected state?

Thanks,

Loren

Is there a way to put the DCU in an uncorrected state?
IIRC, you can clear the DCU by pushing the blue button.

Not that I would advise that. There are many long threads about how to RECOVER from the uncorrected state. It may be a bit more work to do it all in 13x9 mode, but at least you retain the option of giving up and going back to the way you had it before.

Does uncorrecting the DCU just clear your stored convergence data or does it clear other parameters too? Would it put the convergence into the OOTB state?

Loren

No, I don't think it would be out-of-the-box condition, because they've already set up the MF sensor parameters at the factory.

I've attached two pages from the service manual that I think would be added steps if you clear out the data.

Matt

Does uncorrecting the DCU just clear your stored convergence data or does it clear other parameters too? Would it put the convergence into the OOTB state?Definitely not OOTB. No, it's more like the state your computer would be in after FORMAT C:

It wouldn't affect settings unrelated to convergence (brightness, contrast, etc.) if that's what you're asking.

No, it's more like the state your computer would be in after FORMAT C:

So is there anyway to get those other grids without going through all of this?

Loren

Definitely not OOTB. No, it's more like the state your computer would be in after FORMAT C:

Well, I don't think it's quite that drastic! ;) It would clear your Magic Focus settings, so I think you'd have to do those procedures on the two pages I posted before you could start the convergence point adjustment. It may also reset service menu settings to their defaults, I'm not sure.

Are you going to set your geometry with a jig?

Matt

I would like to try and fix the geometry on my 51S500 by first doing the coarse adjustment (3x3), the medium (7x9) and finally the fine (13x9) digital convergence. However, I can't seem to get the coarse or medium adjusmtent grids to come up. There is no reason to use the coarse adjustment unless things are drastically wrong. You should be able to get to the medium, my guess is you are following the correct procedure for switching between medium and fine.

I wouldn't suggest clearing the DCU unless you have an overlay grid.

You'll know you're in 7x5 mode when the cursor jumps more than one line when you use the numbered keys on the remote. Other than that, you might not realize you're actually there. If the cursor moves one line at a time you haven't used the correct sequence on the remote. You need to press "ZERO" five times for 7x5 and "ANT" 5 times for 13x9. The grid doesn't change, just the amount of lines the cursor moves. You DO NOT want to zero convergence (blue button), which is the only way to access 3x3. Most geometry problems can be corrected without such a drastic step. Trust me you don't wanna go there. You might be able to eyeball tiny adjustments to the green grid, but I recommend a screen jig for big areas or to reduce overscan.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

The main reason for trying to fix my geometry is that I noticed on the left hand side of the screen, very close to the edge of the TV, my convergence seems to be off. When I go into the manual convergence there doesn't seem to be a grid line that close to the edge of the screen. I also noticed the grid lines on that side of the screen are off compared to what the sevice manual dimensions are for the grid lines.

I thought that by adjusting the geometry I might be able to fix the convergence on the very edge of the screen. Maybe there is an easier way to do this. Anyone have this type of issue before?

Loren

If you reduce overscan too much, it is impossible to get convergence on the edges. The ends of the horizontal lines will start to curve. Do you see something like this?

If so, move the vertical lines on the left closer to the edge of the screen. This will increase overscan but allow convergence. Use the FREEZE button to move the entire line.

Matt

Use the FREEZE button to move the entire line.
I'm not familiar with using this button in doing convergence. Is there a page in the service manual you could make reference to or a step-by-step procedure that I would follow to move an entire line closer to the edge of the screen.

Loren

Ummm, it's covered briefly in 2.12.4 on page 77.

I discussed it with Mr. Bob here - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4935093&&#post4935093

Matt

In looking at page 77 of the SM I noticed that Note 6 on the bottom right-hand corner states:

"To confirm and fine tune convergence at the edge of the screen, press the PIP CH button on the remote control whil in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM) for additional lines at the edge of the screen"

Has anyone ever used this? Does it work properly?

Loren

In looking at page 77 of the SM I noticed that Note 6 on the bottom right-hand corner states:

"To confirm and fine tune convergence at the edge of the screen, press the PIP CH button on the remote control whil in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM) for additional lines at the edge of the screen"

Has anyone ever used this? Does it work properly?

Loren

I've used it and it worked ok for me.

Kelly

I have a Hitachi 51f510. After tweaking with some of the great suggestions here, my picture WAS great.
My son decided to go into the service menu to adjust the picture for his xbox. He messed will all of the Drive and cutoff settings:
G DRIVE
R DRIVE
R CUTOFF
G CUTOFF
B CUTOFF

He claims he only cahnged the settings for HIGH color temp, but they are all way off now (very green).

Could someone possibly post their setting, or possibly the factory defaults for these. I'd love to get all of the temps back to where they were, but I only really NEED Standard back.

Pillguy posted his factory settings in Post #27 - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2658723&&#post2658723

Matt

Thanks Matt,

I tried these and everthing is very green. Could someone explain the difference in reducing the drive vs. reducing the cutoff when making ajustments? Do you start with drive and then finetune with cutoff?

The DRIVES are going to primarily effect your high luminance levels whereas the CUTS are going to effect low luminance levels. There is some interactivity between the two so you may have to iterate over both several times before things start looking better.

If you plan on adjusting the DRIVES and CUTS by eye, you can put up a 20% field from DVE to adjust the CUTS and a 80% field to adjust the DRIVES. Of course, the best way to adjust this is with a color analyzer.

I'm sure someone with a more in-depth knowledge of the subject can give a detailed explanation.

Thanks,
Mark

I'm guessing there is a similar relationship between phase vs gain in the color management section in the user menu. I'm still trying to figure that out.

Also, those drive and cutoff parameters seem to be duplicated in both the ISF section of the sm and the 1st page of the sm. I've noticed that when you change a value on page 1 of the sm, that change is reflected in the ISF section of the sm as well. Are they truely the same?

Good luck on getting your pic back!

Are they truely the same?

Yes, they should be the same. However, I believe the CUTS and DRIVES outside of the ISF menu do not require you to save your setting after making an adjustment.

If you use the CUTS and DRIVE that are *not* in the ISF menu, I believe it will clear the SM from the screen and only show the parameter your are adjusting. This should give you a more accurate representation of the test pattern you are using because it will be less "polluted" by the SM. Of course you will want to back out of the menu and take a look after you've made an adjustment.

Write down your before and after settings so you can revert back to them if need be.

Mark

He claims he only cahnged the settings for HIGH color temp, but they are all way off now (very green).

The HIGH color temp is like the "master". Adjusting it will effect the other color temps.

Mark

Thanks Mark,

I do not have a copy of DVE. However, I did just pick up a copy of AVIA. Any suggestions on which fields to use in AVIA to adjust the cuts and drives?

Does anyone know of any good callibration people in the Boston area?

Buy a kodak grey card to use as an optical comparator when you adjust using the Digital Video Essentials grey fields. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=27735&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
Use a 6500K light bulb to to illuminate the card. This should get you better results than the factory settings.

The HIGH color temp is like the "master". Adjusting it will effect the other color temps.

Mark

So you're saying make any adjustments in High temp and the Hits are pre-programmed to make lower temp adjustments using high temp as a reference.

So you're saying make any adjustments in High temp and the Hits are pre-programmed to make lower temp adjustments using high temp as a reference.

Yes, I believe this is the case. At least it is true for my SWX20B. You should be able to confirm this by adjusting the HIGH temp and then seeing if it effects the STANDARD temp. I tend to leave HIGH alone and only adjust MEDIUM and STANDARD.

I'm not so sure Avia is the best for adjusting grayscale as it has been documented that Avia inadvertently included some chroma information in the grayscale test patterns.

Mark

Yeah, I've heard the same about avia. still I'm hearing that avia is the best for those starting out like me. Just how important gray scale accuracy anyway?

Yeah, I've heard the same about avia. still I'm hearing that avia is the best for those starting out like me. Just how important gray scale accuracy anyway?

In my opinion, grayscale is probably the single most important aspect of display accuracy. Grayscale is the foundation upon which your picture is based. If your grayscale is not accurate, many other aspects of your picture (and your settings) will not be accurate.

That being said, if you are happy with your picture then that is all you should be concerned about.

Mark

i have a 50v500. its starting to shadow or ghost images and text on screen. i read somewhere on here that this can be fixed via the SM. however, i can not find out how to get into the service menu or exactly what to change while im in there. im also having the red cloud problem, but the shadowing is much worse and much more noticable. if anyone knows how to fix this, please reply. thanks.

i have a 50v500. its starting to shadow or ghost images and text on screen. i read somewhere on here that this can be fixed via the SM. however, i can not find out how to get into the service menu or exactly what to change while im in there. im also having the red cloud problem, but the shadowing is much worse and much more noticable. if anyone knows how to fix this, please reply. thanks.

That is the LCD RPTV isn't it? I seem to recall seeing what looked like SVM or excessive sharpness when I evaluated this display. I don't know about a service menu adjustment on the v500 series but that doesn't mean there isn't one. You might try the "Official v500 Owner's Thread" if it is still active.

Thanks,
Mark

i believe thats the thread i read about shadowing being fixed via the SM. it does have one, but i cant seem to find out how to access it, or more importantly, what to adjust once im in. god i hope i can find the answer, i have a room full of people coming over for MNF in about 7 hours :(

i believe thats the thread i read about shadowing being fixed via the SM. it does have one, but i cant seem to find out how to access it, or more importantly, what to adjust once im in. god i hope i can find the answer, i have a room full of people coming over for MNF in about 7 hours :(

You can access the service menu by holding INPUT on the TV console (not the remote), hit POWER on the TV console (again, not the remote) while holding INPUT, and then release INPUT. Timing is critical and it may take a few attempts to get in.

I don't have the copy of the v500 service manual with me so I can't tell you what to look for to eliminate ghosting. I'd search that Hitachi LCD V500 Issues (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=351829&page=1&pp=30&highlight=ghosting) thread if you have the time.

I must caution you, write down all of your settings and don't adjust anything you are not familiar with. You can seriously hose your display by mucking around with SM settings.

Mark

thanks mark, youve been a great help. if anyone knows what to change in the sm to eliminate shadowing, im all ears ;)

thanks mark, youve been a great help. if anyone knows what to change in the sm to eliminate shadowing, im all ears ;)

I just wish I had more/better answers for you. :)

Mark

I have one comment to make and then a question.

I have a 2002 model 51uwx20b. I recently picked up one of the last remaining Radio Shack Accurian Tuners they were closing out and it has an HDMI jack. I bought a dirt cheap HDMI to DVI-D Cable on ebay. I didn't expect a big change using it over component cables, since this is a RP CRT. BUT I do have a very positive improvement on my display. I really dont have anymore ringing on OTA SD and with HD it is absolutely stunning, just more in focus.

Prior to the Accurian I was using a Samsung SIR-T151 with component cables. The Accurian and Samsung with component were pretty much identical.

I just wanted to comment on this because I felt the common knowledge was for
RP CRT an all digital cable wouldn't matter much. Boy was I wrong.


Now my question is, I have rebuilt my DCAM convergence. I had a print out somewhere that told how to do the Red, Blue and Green WITHOUT the colors Blinking on the Grid. Anyone know how to do this? I find it much easier if the lines aren't blinking, but I dont want to screw up my dcam memory by exiting without saving to ROM, by mistake. :confused:


PS> One more comment, an aquaintence had bought one of the Sony Wega LCD's that I helped him set quickly, I just eyeballed the contrast, brightness and color for him. Watching it a while I thought it had an amazing picture..... but returning home a few days later and watching my set the way I have it set up now I knew I liked my dinosaur RP CRT much better. It just seemed more realistic.
More film like and natural....

I just wanted to comment on this because I felt the common knowledge was for RP CRT an all digital cable wouldn't matter much. Boy was I wrong.

I can't tell the difference between HDMI and component out of my HDTivo...maybe it's just your new box has better picture quality.

Matt

All component outputs are not equal. The quality of component cables also plays a factor.

Now my question is, I have rebuilt my DCAM convergence. I had a print out somewhere that told how to do the Red, Blue and Green WITHOUT the colors Blinking on the Grid. Anyone know how to do this? I find it much easier if the lines aren't blinking, but I dont want to screw up my dcam memory by exiting without saving to ROM, by mistake. :confused:

Are you thinking of the "PIP CH" version of the DCAM? This is the one where you can adjust additional points toward the left and right side of the screen. It doesn't blink like the standard DCAM. If there is an option to turn off the blinking, I'm all ears. It annoys me as well.

Mark

press MENU while in DCAM to scroll through the cursor modes. I don't believe the WX20 models have as many modes as the 500 and later sets.

Mark
I think PIP CH is it. Its been over a awhile ago since I last did my DCAM. I can't check it right now, not on the computer at home :rolleyes: , If it is the mode that also gives you 2 solid bars of the color you are adjustiing at the point you are adjusting, this may be it.

I maybe crazy but I think there is another mode you can do, in DCAM with the remote which will only show the color of the grid you are adjusting over the green grid.

I have virtually every page from this forum concerning the Hitachi's RPTV printed out for reference, since early 2003. Man I cant find it, but I remember doing it in a way that it was easier to see the color you are working on.

I tried using the search, but I'm getting lots of hits to sift through.


Another question about convergence, Since I did my DCAM anyway again. I don't have the template but my overscan is 4.5% left and right and 3% top and bottom without any problems for the set to handle. So I'm happy here.

After I did DCAM I put in Avia in the crosshatch mode. Went under ISF MENU on set and turned off each gun to check the geometry for each color. This is the only way I could figure out to check the RGB geometry individually. I had some wavy lines on the Red at the left edge that I Could Not Detect using DCAM.

Should I use DCAM as the reference and leave it alone? :confused: Or try to fine tune the wavy distortion I see using Avia as the reference and with only one color turned on. I can't see any image distortion under normal viewing content. I guess I just like to tweak the hell out of things :)

Thanks Marc Alexander,

I must have been typing while you posted.....

press MENU while in DCAM to scroll through the cursor modes. I don't believe the WX20 models have as many modes as the 500 and later sets.

The mode available to the WX20 via the MENU option is "Remove Color" allowing one to converge red to green, or blue to green, or to simply adjust green all by itself (for geometry purposes).

Mark

Should I use DCAM as the reference and leave it alone? :confused: Or try to fine tune the wavy distortion I see using Avia as the reference and with only one color turned on. I can't see any image distortion under normal viewing content. I guess I just like to tweak the hell out of things :)

I've tried using Avia to adjust my convergence on my SWX20B and found it to be more trouble than it was worth. Since the WX20B series can't display an external pattern, you have to go into DCAM, make a few adjustments, save, exit, and display the Avia pattern. It is WAY too much work for a full convergence given that a slight distortion is not even noticeable during normal viewing. Of course, this is just my opinion, your milage may vary.

Thanks,
Mark

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention...

You may already know this, but go under your ISF menu in the Service Menu and turn down DCUCNT0. This will turn down the contrast on the DCAM and make convergence adjustment (esp. with respect to blue) much easier in my opinion.

Mark

Thanks Mark,

I felt using AVIA in the only way possible with this set would be a major pain. I'll just leave well enough alone.

Yeah, I did reduce the DCAM contrast, Easier to see and a big migrane reducer.

Thanks for the input

I have a green flicker in dark scenes on my 57s700, more noticable in higher resolutions. Anyone know what is causing this. Do you think it is the green color gun or something i can adjust to fix the problem. Thanks. I have had the tv almost two years, by the way how long is the warranty.

I have a green flicker in dark scenes on my 57s700, more noticable in higher resolutions. Anyone know what is causing this. Do you think it is the green color gun or something i can adjust to fix the problem. Thanks. I have had the tv almost two years, by the way how long is the warranty.

It could be a number of things. My green gun was flickering and it turns out that my focus block was bad. I had it replaced, and all has been well since - hosed my grayscale though :(

It could also be the gun itself. The suggestion that was put to me when I originally had my flickering problem was to *lightly* tap on the green trim pot. When the tech came out to diagnose the problem, this is what he did and the flickering was more pronounced. The tech also mentioned that he did not see arching in the green CRT and thus felt the problem was in the focus block.

I would call a technician and have them fix it. The original Hitachi warranty is for one year. I had an extended warranty so the replacement of my focus block was covered. Had I not, the tech said it would have been a $300.00 job at least.

I don't mean to scare you, I just want to let you know what you might be in for.

Hope this helps,
Mark

I've got the same set as Mark. Mine flickers when the virtual HD is set to 1080i. Changing it to 540p eliminates the flicker altogether. Could be bad hardware as in Mark's case or a problem with the Hitachi scaler. Question is does 1080i CAUSE the problem or REVEAL the problem? Hard to say...I just leave mine a 540p for DVD's as there is no visual difference to my eye. 1080i from an HD source does not cause the problem as the Hitachi's scaler is bypassed when receiving 1080i.

I've got the same set as Mark. Mine flickers when the virtual HD is set to 1080i. Changing it to 540p eliminates the flicker altogether. Could be bad hardware as in Mark's case or a problem with the Hitachi scaler. Question is does 1080i CAUSE the problem or REVEAL the problem? Hard to say...I just leave mine a 540p for DVD's as there is no visual difference to my eye. 1080i from an HD source does not cause the problem as the Hitachi's scaler is bypassed when receiving 1080i.

Oh, that is a different problem altogether. The Hitachi scaler cause a slight flickering at the top of my screen when VirtualHD is set to 1080i. Like cnjvh mentioned, switching to 540p solves this. If I feed the Hitachi a native 1080i (or externally scaled to 1080i) signal, there is no flickering.

Mark

Guys thanks for the reply, unfortunatley I didnt get the extended warranty. Would you suggest getting an ISF certified adjustment and see if that fixes the problem, or haul it to a certified Hitachi dealer. Is it too late to get an extended warranty, have had the tv a little less than two years.

I set the virtual hd to 540p, I am going to watch it for a while and see if this resolves the problem. If the scaler is the problem, can it be adjusted or does it need to be replaced, or should i even bother with replacement and leave it at 540p.

anyone know how much duvetyne is needed to line a 57swx20b?

I set the virtual hd to 540p, I am going to watch it for a while and see if this resolves the problem. If the scaler is the problem, can it be adjusted or does it need to be replaced, or should i even bother with replacement and leave it at 540p.

I don't think the scaler issue is something that can be repaired - I think its a design problem. I would just leave it at 540p. It's not worth getting a tech to tear into your set over it especially with no warranty IMHO.

anyone know how much duvetyne is needed to line a 57swx20b?

I got 5yds for my 51". I still need to install it though, and I forget how I determined I needed 5 yards. :o

I think the cheapest place I found was here - http://store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/duv54rolx50y.html

Matt

Guys thanks for the reply, unfortunatley I didnt get the extended warranty. Would you suggest getting an ISF certified adjustment and see if that fixes the problem, or haul it to a certified Hitachi dealer. Is it too late to get an extended warranty, have had the tv a little less than two years.

Some ISF calibrators would be able to diagnose the exact cause of the problem, but I doubt they would be willing to fix it. This is typically a job for a Hitachi authorized service center.

Mark

I got 5yds for my 51". I still need to install it though, and I forget how I determined I needed 5 yards. :o

I think the cheapest place I found was here - http://store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/duv54rolx50y.html

Matt

I am seriously considering this myself now that my display is out of warranty.

Mark

I can't seem to find a copy of the 51SWX20B service manual. The place mentioned earlier in this thread doesn't have it. Anyone know where to find one?

Jeff

There is not much useful info in the SWX service manual (you are better off getting the S500 SM). You can order them from www.servicemanuals.net

They say they don't have it!

Willie - what kind of info are you looking for? Maybe we can help you out.

Matt

Thanks for the offer, but I'm getting the service manual electronically.

I'm just interested in reading up on all of the pieces and parts on the inside. I don't think that I'm going to do anything too drastic since I'm a novice.

I did take the screen off and cleaned the inside of the set, did the manual and electronic focus, but I can get a professional to easily fix any drastic problems I create there. I'm just tinkering a bit.

I've got the extended Circuit City warranty, so I'm not feeling particularly bold.

The few questions I have are:

Some folks talked about removing the "anti-glare" screen, while another said he just reversed the assembly and reinstalled. I'm surprised that he didn't have any problems considering that the "anti-glare" screen does a nice job of reflecting lots of light. Any thoughts on this?

Also, when I had the screen removed, I noticed some debris in the guns (past the plastic outer lens). Any recommendations on how to access and clean them?

vr,
Jeff

What controls in the service menu center the picture?

What controls in the service menu center the picture?
I think there's "H Position" "V Position" listed on the first menu that comes up...

It looks like there's "H-Posi" setting under the TA1360 settings...I'm not sure what the difference is.

Matt

doesn't one control the position of the service menu? :rolleyes:

doesn't one control the position of the service menu? :rolleyes:
Yeah, there's "H-Posi" and "V-Posi" under the OSD settings, too.

Can anyone point me to where in the service menu I can see/adjust the overscan? Have a 65F710A and am very much a newb, all I've done (or plan to do for now) has been the 117 manual, and gone into the service menu to center the screen position....I would like to tweak the overscan however but don't want to fowl anything up as I'm very pleased with the PQ after a few weeks of adjusting the settings for both life and image.

Derek

Derek -

You can reduce overscan by shrinking the geometry in DCAM. Just bring each line in a couple of clicks. Use AVIA or something similar to see how much overscan you have.

Matt

Can anyone point me to where in the service menu I can see/adjust the overscan? Have a 65F710A and am very much a newb, all I've done (or plan to do for now) has been the 117 manual, and gone into the service menu to center the screen position....I would like to tweak the overscan however but don't want to fowl anything up as I'm very pleased with the PQ after a few weeks of adjusting the settings for both life and image.

Derek


Derek,

If you're feeling a bit more adventurous, there is a set of two pots you can access via the service panel that will adjust overscan. I will do this to my TV over the weekend, as I am affraid to screw up my geometry with the DCAM method. Old AVS overscan thread (http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=162956)

I think it should be a similar setup. I will let you know my results after I try it with mine. I am trying to reduce the horizontal from 5 1/2% to about 3 or 4%.

Thanks,
Jonathon

What do you need to adjust to make the picture sharper? Can the picture be out of focus?

LawDawg, all the info is in this thread and the one linked in the first post -
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273639

Have fun! :)

Matt

perfect! thanks. =)

Are there any posts that have settings for the 50VS810? I'm trying to callibrate using AVIA, and was having a heckuva time doing it... just wondering if I oculd get some help. Thanks!

Try this thread, which has some users setting for the 820:
New Hitachi owner, and question about vertical banding

Also try this one, which has a lot more posts to dig through:
Hitachi VS810 Owner's Thread

Finally, try the Display Calibration forum, which has much useful info on tweaks.

Good luck

Bill

Ok, I have two questions: First, turned on television this morning and picture was normal for about 1 minute then BANG I have a double image where one is red and one is green. Performed Magic Focus but had no effect. Turned it off and waited and turned back on. Came back on with same thing - it clicked back after a couple minutes to a good picture again but then went right back after about 15 seconds to the green and red issue.

First question: Is this something that can be adjusted through the service menu and second question: how the heck do you find a qualified t.v. technician - I don't want to go to Sears or some place like that and Hitachi's website doesn't work relative to telling me what authorized technicians are in my area (you get "page not found" - that's real professional for a huge corporation....).

I love this T.V. and it is just coming up on being 5 years old - it has given great service and an awesome picture especially in High-Def mode....if I have to layout some cash now to fix I don't mind I just don't want to go through a bunch of bozos before I find someone who actually knows what he is doing !

Anyway, any suggestions / advice gratefully accepted !

Rich

Ok, I have two questions: First, turned on television this morning and picture was normal for about 1 minute then BANG I have a double image where one is red and one is green. Performed Magic Focus but had no effect. Turned it off and waited and turned back on. Came back on with same thing - it clicked back after a couple minutes to a good picture again but then went right back after about 15 seconds to the green and red issue.

First question: Is this something that can be adjusted through the service menu and second question: how the heck do you find a qualified t.v. technician - I don't want to go to Sears or some place like that and Hitachi's website doesn't work relative to telling me what authorized technicians are in my area (you get "page not found" - that's real professional for a huge corporation....).

I love this T.V. and it is just coming up on being 5 years old - it has given great service and an awesome picture especially in High-Def mode....if I have to layout some cash now to fix I don't mind I just don't want to go through a bunch of bozos before I find someone who actually knows what he is doing !

Anyway, any suggestions / advice gratefully accepted !

Rich

Rich,
I have a 57Swx20b and have also had this happen to me. I noticed that when it does happen my STB is tuned to an HD channel. I don't know if it has anything to do with the problem. What usually works to fix the problem is to power every thing down, wait a few minutes, then power everything backup. I also noticed that this only happens when my TV is hooked up using the DVI input, I didn't have this problem when I was using the componet input. Let me know if you get anymore info about this.

Ok, I have two questions: First, turned on television this morning and picture was normal for about 1 minute then BANG I have a double image where one is red and one is green. Performed Magic Focus but had no effect. Turned it off and waited and turned back on. Came back on with same thing - it clicked back after a couple minutes to a good picture again but then went right back after about 15 seconds to the green and red issue.

First question: Is this something that can be adjusted through the service menu and second question: how the heck do you find a qualified t.v. technician - I don't want to go to Sears or some place like that and Hitachi's website doesn't work relative to telling me what authorized technicians are in my area (you get "page not found" - that's real professional for a huge corporation....).

I love this T.V. and it is just coming up on being 5 years old - it has given great service and an awesome picture especially in High-Def mode....if I have to layout some cash now to fix I don't mind I just don't want to go through a bunch of bozos before I find someone who actually knows what he is doing !

Anyway, any suggestions / advice gratefully accepted !

Rich

I think I'm having the same problem. I have a 57swx20B. I love this damn tv. My son was watching TV and then it suddenly glitched to a yellow/blue picture...like double vision. On ESPN it had the score with another score in blue right below it. I'm also wondering if there is anything I can do in the service screen...if not, who should I call. I have a extended warranty with Circuit City but I believe it has run out (still chasing down that receipt). Not sure if it was for 3 or 5 years.

Any help would be appreciate. Thanks.

Tim

I own a 51F510 and want to know if there are RGB contrast/brightness controls in the service menu. I can only find the cut/drive controls. If anyone know please explain where to access it.

Also, the image vibrates when fed 1080i DVI to HDMI from my Oppo player. Goes away @ 540P. Anyone experiencing this?

cuts=brightness
drives=contrast

...well, for 51SWX20B anyway. Should be true for yours too.

Is there a manual that explains "every" item under the service menu for the 51F510/57F510 series?

Nope, not really, the service manual doesn't go into much detail.

cuts=brightness
drives=contrast

...well, for 51SWX20B anyway. Should be true for yours too.
WRONG WRONG WRONG

Messing with CUTS and DRIVES will F*** up your grayscale.

I own a 51F510 and want to know if there are RGB contrast/brightness controls in the service menu. I can only find the cut/drive controls. If anyone know please explain where to access it.

Also, the image vibrates when fed 1080i DVI to HDMI from my Oppo player. Goes away @ 540P. Anyone experiencing this?
The answers have already been posted long ago, you just need to do a little reading - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2655855&&#post2655855

Hitachi Tweaks (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273639)

540p is preferable for DVD input into the Hitachis.

Is there a manual that explains "every" item under the service menu for the 51F510/57F510 series?
I haven't seen the F510 service manual, but the S500 service manual has many brief descriptions. The F500 service manual had practically nothing.

Anyone w/ a S500 service manual that wouldn't mind sharing? I bought the F510 manual but it really "sucks". I don't want to buy another one.

Anyone w/ a S500 service manual that wouldn't mind sharing? I bought the F510 manual but it really "sucks". I don't want to buy another one.
Here's an extract from the manual with all the service menu parameters.

Matt

That's lovely man! I appreciate it.

Question: On the F510 manual it states to adjust the (HIGH) values for adjusting white balance. Isn't the (HIGH) for 9300K temp? I thought (S) standard was the one for adjusting white balance.

Which one is right?

The service manual is a joke. The HIGH is a baseline and will affect all color temps (so its best to leave that alone). You are correct, adjust standard (if you understand the risks of adjusting the grayscale).

Is gamma adjustable on the F510 series. If so how?

There's a few Gamma parameters in that list - static, dynamic, Y switch, Blue stretch....I have no idea what they do. :confused:

Matt

Is gamma adjustable on the F510 series. If so how?

Check the following posts. They may help.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4134849&&#post4134849

Mark

Here's an extract from the manual with all the service menu parameters.

Matt

Any idea if these settings are close enough to the new F59 SM settings that this would have any value as a reference? I recognize a lot of them, so it looks like there is some similarity...

I a bit lost with all this I just got that s700 service manual but I dont know how to input this stuff or to bring up the menu. see a tech ****ed up my convergence and alll i want to to do is stetch it back out so the that stupid bend goes away on the left side. any help would be great ( 65 s500

I a bit lost with all this I just got that s700 service manual but I dont know how to input this stuff or to bring up the menu. see a tech ****ed up my convergence and alll i want to to do is stetch it back out so the that stupid bend goes away on the left side. any help would be great ( 65 s500
Follow the instructions in the post to set the convergence and save it - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2368657&#post2368657

Or you can just use the Manual version of Magic Focus, but then it will revert to previous settings if you run auto Magic Focus.

Matt

thanks that was close but my remote dosent have status or a magic focus key. so I still have the issue of getting to that mode where you can perfect the convergence and then rom- write it to the memory. 65s500 might have a differnent remote than the s700. still some help would be grand. please help with what buttons to press please.

Magic focus button is on the front of the TV and Status=Info on the remote.

ok so when I hit the magic focus button it flashes static mode at me and then is a cross, two lines one verticle and one horizontal and the they flash red. i tryed hitting info to get green but nothing seems to happen, does anyone know where to go from here to manualy converge my set? (65s500)

Call that tech back (or try to get a better one), 'cause he broke your magic focus.

Or you can fix it yourself...as previously described in this thread -
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5035259&&#post5035259

Matt

I started tweaking a little here and there and was wondering if it's better to RESTACK or REMOVE the glare screen? Is the danger of bowing a real problem? And is it worth the risk?

Also, I just did the electro- focus and manual and got it pretty tight, but it seems like it made the picture worse. Is that normal? Is it just showing more of the source flaws? My dvd payer is in "the shop" so I can't test with that, but I do have HD through my cable company and it seems a little worse too.

Worse how? Tightening the blue focus could reduce the brightness. Maybe the tight focus is exposing poor convergence?

Maybe it's just me but I don't think moving the reflective screen inside of the TV is a good idea.

Matt

Convergence seems to be pretty spot on from what I can tell. It just seems like more artifacts are showing up over all sources.

And are you saying to remove rather than restack, or don't mess with it all? I probably am misinterpreting your post. I've heard arguements for both scenarios but nothing that I can definitively use for deciding, which is why I'm asking now. Can somebody who has done it chime in with some first-hand opinions?

And are you saying to remove rather than restack, or don't mess with it all? I probably am misinterpreting your post. I've heard arguements for both scenarios but nothing that I can definitively use for deciding, which is why I'm asking now. Can somebody who has done it chime in with some first-hand opinions?

I have the 51F510 and I restacked the supposedly "anti-glare" screen because I couldn't stand the reflections. Since the screen is somewhat tinted (not clear), I thought that it might hurt contrast if removed completely, hence the reason I restacked.

One thing to keep in mind is that if your room has a lot of ambient light, it might make the picture look somewhat "whashed-out", otherwise it'll look fine.

To fill the gap do you have to have 3/8" tape? I haven't removed the screen yet and I'd like to have it figured out before I do. All I can find is 1/2". Does anybody happen to have any pictures of the screen off of the tv? I'm more of a visual person and right now I can't really picture what I'm supposed to be doing. Does the tape go on the front of the screen? All the way across the border or just in corners? etc etc. I really don't wanna jack it up going in blindly.

I haven't done it, but here's how I understand it - You've got the stack up:

Outer edge - Protective plexiglass - Lenticular

So you remove the plexiglass and put a filler in between the lenticular and outer edge. Are you talking about weather stripping? I would think 1/2" is okay, that stuff compresses. I'd run it all along the edge of the lenticular to hold it firmly in place.

Matt

I have the 51F510, and just did a few things to it myself. One of which was taking off the stupid reflective protector screen. Yes, it's a bit tinted, and I notice my picture was ever so slightly clearer and so much nicer to watch during the day - almost no glare at all.

When I took the screen off (something like 24 screws) and unpluged the little black box (from the TV, not the screen), I laid the screen face down on the floor. There are a bunch of screws holding metal brackets on the sides, with little sensors every 8 inches or so. I took the left and top side off, and loosened the right enough so that I could get both screens out. I gingerly placed only the lenticular back in place, tucked the wires for the light sensors back in the groove from which they came, placed the metal brackets back in place and verified nothing was pinched. All clear, I placed all the screws, and from the center out I tightened them down, all the time keeping the assembly flat on the floor. There was enough thread on the screws so that the brackets held the lenticular firmly in place - no weatherstrip needed. Since the screen assembly is an overlap fit to the TV, I don't see how any light could get in from there.

After that I did the duvetyne thing, which worked out great, but that's another story. The screen removal process took about 1/2 hour, the duvetyne about 4 1/2. I have some pics if you need to see something specific.

Hi there. I recently purchased a hitachi 46F500 off of a coworker. The TV is 3 years old, and in excellent condition, but never properly calibrated (he didn't even know what an ISF calibration was). I've read through this entire threat from from to back, as well as the first few pages of the Hitachi Tweaks thread as well. It's been a lot of info to absorb.

So far I've followed the advice on here which has helped me do a few tweaks, such as using avia to set the colors and hues to get all the colors right, as well as brightness/contrast, changed the red push and lime green fix settings and manually setting the convergence (which looked good to begin with). Everything was looking great, however, when all was said and done, I realized that in the user menu that I was on the high temp setting, and not standard, so I went and changed that. It changed the look drastically, and I was not satisfied, however it was late, so I did a magic focus, and did a couple quick tweaks, but still wasn't happy with the end result of the evening.

That was 2 nights ago. Last night I popped back into the user settings, and realized that somehow the the SVM and Auto Blackness options options were on. I turned them off, and started watching the TV to get an idea of how everything looked at this point. What I was seeing was not favorable at all. Colors looked a little blotchy, and sometimes darks looked grey'ish/washed out, and some movements seemed to be leaving trails effects. Based on the trails, I thought that might be because I'm viewing in 1080i mode, but it looks pretty much the same when I switched to 540p.

I went back into the user menu, and put back on those 2 options I turned off, and I think that made it look a little better, but I'm still not 100% happy with how everything looks. I didn't have time last night to get into the ISF mode and start playing around. BTW, I was just watching SD cable (which comes through a digital box), I didn't get around to testing with DVD or my PS2. I have my cable box plugged in through the Ant as well as RGB component (I have tried switching back and forth to see if either look better, and so far I cannot notice any difference).

I intend to get right into things tomorrow, or sunday, and manually focus, and do all the tweaks over again when I've got a decent chunk of time on my hands. But based on everything I've mentioned so far, can anyone give me some sound advice? I'm teetering back and forth on the idea of getting an ISF pro to look at it, but $500 is a lot, and if possible I'd like to avoid it. I know I probably sound fairly inept from not using some of the proper terminology for some of the settings, but I'm just trying to save time and not have to look up every little thing just to make this post. I'm actually a fairly capably technical person. Sorry for making such a long post, and probably not structuring it well, but I just wanted to give as much relevent info as possible. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

RShannonCA-

Instead of an ISF calibration, you could get a Spyder2, DTP-94 or Display2 LT colorimeter and coupled w/ HCFR calibration software(free BTW) found here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550) and you'll have a great calibration tool.

Great, I'll definitely look into this. Thanks. Would you happen to be able to give me an idea as to how much one of these sensors might cost? I'm looking on google right now, and from the first few sites I've looked at, is it safe to assume around $100-200?

Would you happen to be able to give me an idea as to how much one of these sensors might cost? I'm looking on google right now, and from the first few sites I've looked at, is it safe to assume around $100-200?
Yes, within that range. About the sensors: Best in this order Display2, DTP-94 and Spyder2. Display2 support is being tweaked if I'm not mistaken. Display2 LT being the cheapest bundle. DTP-94 is being phased out so it may be hard to find, try ebay. Spyder2 being the cheapest when you get Spyder2 Express.

For more detail, hop over to the HCFR thread ;) .

Awesome. Thanks again. I was a little reluctant to be willing to shell out $500 for just a calibration on 1 TV (no offense to the ISF guys, but that seems a bit much for a few hours of work... I'm definitely in the wrong profession ;)), but I'll definitely be willing to shell out a couple hundred on something that I can use on display devices going forwards.

Awesome. Thanks again. I was a little reluctant to be willing to shell out $500 for just a calibration on 1 TV (no offense to the ISF guys, but that seems a bit much for a few hours of work... I'm definitely in the wrong profession ;)), but I'll definitely be willing to shell out a couple hundred on something that I can use on display devices going forwards.I'm with you on spending $500 for a calibration, mainly because that's getting close to the value of the TV itself.

OTOH, I don't think the ISF guys are getting rich off this business, when you consider the travel time and the amount of time they have to spend drumming up gigs. It's going to take you a lot longer than a couple hours to get up to speed on setting grayscale with a Spyder, and without their experience you'll always wonder if you did it right. But if you look at it as a hobby you'd like to learn, then it makes sense IMHO.

There are the threads at all times for help...:)

RShannon, where are you located (I'm assuming somewhere in CA)? I don't do professional calibrations anymore, but I might be willing to stop by and give you some advice.

Actually, the CA stands for Canada; I'm located in Toronto. That's an extremely generous offer, though... I certainly wish I lived in Cali ;). I appreciate the sentiment, so thanks! Your input throughout this thread has been invaluable itself.

So I finally got around to spending time with it. Did a electronic and manual focus... I was expecting somewhat better results with this, but I suppose the settings were already decent, and I'm sure I got it as tight as I possibly could. Then I redid a manual convergence. Then I did some more color tweaking. Interesting enough, I came to my own values (slightly higher) for the red and green color decoder when using the avia color bars screen to calibrate... however in actual practice, I noticed some traces of red push, so I went ahead and used the values that were mentioned in the Hitachi tweaks thread, and found them satisfactory, even though I found my values looked more accurate using the color bars... but hey, whatever works in the end, right? Then I noticed some ghosting, so I went ahead and tweaked that as well. Finally, I noticed the whites were a little bright, so I went to check my contrast, and somehow my user menu contrast jacked itself up to 100%. That freaked me out... and I brought that down to the normal level.

The end result was nothing short of amazing. I was a little concerned that even after doing all these tweaks, that it would only make a slight difference, but in the end they all certainly came together very nicely. Just SD cable was looking perfectly clear. I went ahead and popped in a DVD (Collateral) and it was even better. I already had the impression of looking through a glass window. At least I did for the first 10 minutes...

I'm glad I chose Collateral as my first DVD to watch because it has a lot of dark scenes which helped me determine the problems I have with my greyscale. As I mentioned, the picture looked really sharp at first, which happened to be in brighter scenes... but I noticed in the darker scenes that the picture appeared a little softer. I also had the feeling that I was noticing a greenish hue... but couldn't quite put my finger on what it was. There was also a later scene (if you're familiar with the movie, it's where Max has to pretend to be Vincent and has to persuade Vincent's employer to provide another copy of the list) where I was noticing the shadows to have blue in them... but I wasn't sure if that was just the scene itself, or the greyscale being off.

For some reason, I'm not feeling very confident about adjusting the greyscale by eye. I'm not afraid to try, I just somehow don't think I'll be able to get this as close to being right as I did with everything else. But thankfully HDholic had brought to my attention the tools which can be used, so I'll probably just wait it out until I get my hands on them... but I certainly wouldn't mind if anyone could provide some input on ways I could try tweaking a little bit until then. I know it involves adjusting the cuts and drives, but I'm what I'm not sure of is what test patterns to use, and what to look for in the patterns.

Actually, that reminds me of another thing I was hoping to learn about. In Avia, as far as I've found, it only describes how to adjust your TV for the basic patterns, but there's a whole collection of advanced patterns, but doesn't quite describe what they're for, and how to adjust your TV with them. Is there any documentation for this anywhere?

Finally, at this point I want to thank everyone here... the ISF guys who've provided all the input, and even everyone else who's posted their problems and solutions. As is, if my TV doesn't get any better, I'll still be happier than I thought I could be.

RShannonCA,

Adjusting grayscale by eye is just impossible although you might be able to adjust slightly. But one of the most important things to calibrate is Gamma, which you need software. You can find the Spyder2 for $69 on pricegrabber, very affordable.

Just curious, what exactly does gamma affect? What sort of visual improvements can I expect to see from properly calibrated gamma?

Edit: N/M, have read up on the excellent calibration how to PDF file which explained that.

Ok, I have two questions: First, turned on television this morning and picture was normal for about 1 minute then BANG I have a double image where one is red and one is green. Performed Magic Focus but had no effect. Turned it off and waited and turned back on. Came back on with same thing - it clicked back after a couple minutes to a good picture again but then went right back after about 15 seconds to the green and red issue.

First question: Is this something that can be adjusted through the service menu and second question: how the heck do you find a qualified t.v. technician - I don't want to go to Sears or some place like that and Hitachi's website doesn't work relative to telling me what authorized technicians are in my area (you get "page not found" - that's real professional for a huge corporation....).

I love this T.V. and it is just coming up on being 5 years old - it has given great service and an awesome picture especially in High-Def mode....if I have to layout some cash now to fix I don't mind I just don't want to go through a bunch of bozos before I find someone who actually knows what he is doing !

Anyway, any suggestions / advice gratefully accepted !

Rich

Hi, I realize that this post is now over a year old (I haven't posted in a while)...but in case others have a similar issue...

I just had this happen to my 4.5 year old 65xwx20b. It required a repair. In fact the repair shop knew exactly what it was over the phone based upon my description (same as the symptoms above). They replaced two parts that have to do with convergence. $75 worth of parts and $250 labor. Soldered in new parts, reconverge, problem solved. Shop indicated that this is a common failure with Hitachi RP CRTs (and other brands, too).

Hope this helps someone.

I have a problem with the screen of my 65xwx20b. During removal to clean the crt lenses and the mirror the screen assembly apparently has slipped down in the frame a bit. Some of the sticky black tape that holds the various layers of the screen together now shows from the front at the two top corners and the top middle. It doesn't seem that the screen can be moved up in the assembly. Trimming the tape left a bunch of the sticky goo.

Is there anything safe that I can use to remove the black goo from the lenticular screen? Alcohol didn't work and I'm hesitant to try something stronger.

Thanks.

I found a procedure to follow on the Keohi web site a couple of years ago to get
into the service menu and perform the convergence adjustment(s). I must have
exited the menu or pressed the wrong key combination because recently (after
having Mr. Bob's posts nad others) when I went into that same (?) area, instead of seeing severla points for the convergence adjustment I only see a crosshair pat
term - one line vertically bisecting the 16:9 and one line horizontally bisecting the
frame. The 'joystick' in the center of my remote does affect bringing the red back
onto the line, but where are all convergence points?

Am I in the wrong menu? How do I get the - whatever the number - convergence
points to display?

Thank you!


:eek:

I found a procedure to follow on the Keohi web site a couple of years ago to get
into the service menu and perform the convergence adjustment(s). I must have
exited the menu or pressed the wrong key combination because recently (after
having Mr. Bob's posts nad others) when I went into that same (?) area, instead of seeing severla points for the convergence adjustment I only see a crosshair pat
term - one line vertically bisecting the 16:9 and one line horizontally bisecting the
frame. The 'joystick' in the center of my remote does affect bringing the red back
onto the line, but where are all convergence points?

Am I in the wrong menu? How do I get the - whatever the number - convergence
points to display?

Thank you!


:eek:

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2368657&&#post2368657

Thanks!

I followed the link and printed the instructions. Unfortunately following them still
does not yield a service environment where I can make my convergence adjustments. I can display the grid, however I cannot get the cursor (highlighted
line) to move beyond the center lines (horiz. & vert.). ONLY the center lines flash.
Using the joystick only results in moving *all* of the lines in the grid either horizon
tally or vertically. It's really only the leftmost vertical (red) lines that need to be brought back into convergence.

Does anyone have a downloadable Service Manual for the 53SWX10B? How about a site where these can be obtained (free? charge?).

Thanks!

Press the freeze button to get out of the "move entire grid" mode.

I realized that I'd left out part of the explanation. Once I get the grid to appear,
the navigation buttons (2, 4, 6, 8) on the remote seem to have no effect. So, I
cannot navigate to another line to get it to highlight so an adjustment can be made.

I found reference to a site that stated if one failed to initialize MAGIC FOCUS,

"will result in a STATIC + display when MAGIC FOCUS attempts to run".

This is what I am seeing. It further states one would have to

"access the service only switch behind the front cover to get back into the DCAM
to initialize the sensors, since the procedure to assecc DCAM without removing
the front panel requires MAGIC FOCUS to be running."


I'm assuming the plate below the front assess panel is what is meant...




This kind of sounds like my situation. If I press MAGIC FOCUS and press it again

Does your set actually display "STATIC MODE" before the grid comes up?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5035259&&#post5035259

Matt

I have the Hitachi 65x500 and cannot get the dvi ports to works with my cable box or ps3. Does anyone know if the ports are hdcp compliant?? Also if not, can it be upgraded via software. Or does anyone know how I might find out this info.
Thanks

Yes.

It dispalys 'Static'

I'll check for the blue button - although I don't think there is one...

Thanks!

I just checked in the online Owner's Manual PDF I have here @ work...

It won't be in the Owner's Manual...

You have to take off the front panel, and it's on a circuit board on the left side. I think.

Matt

I'll take a look when I get home tonight!

Found a picture for ya - http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=179288

I'd already removed the cover and had not been able to find the little sky blue
button. I was going to post that my set lacked such a device when I read your
post and looked at the photo. I recognized the metal grille and saw the circled
button in the photo!

It worked like a charm!

The last time I did the convergence, I only knew about the red and adjusted
only that. This time I spent time with all three and the picture looks great! I was
able to get the settings to store to ROM and exited out correctly. I powered off
the set and verified that Magic Focus would, indeed, run again correctly.


The other day when I was trying to get the grid to activate, I must have pressed
some errant combination and moved the status display elements that appear in
the upper and lower right corners (channel and picture type (movies smooth wide)) a bit closer together. They now display vertically a bit further from their
former locations.

Would you (or anyone else reading) happen to know what r/c key(s) I need to
press to correct this situation?

Thank you!

O.K. I got my hands on a Service Manual (finally!) In section 2.12.1 ther's mention
of a DCU parameter called Adj. Disp

Perhaps this is what got tweaked a few weeks ago?

:eek:

I followed the instructions in the manual. UInfortunately they specified to hold the
convergence reset button, then power on the TV. This seems to wipe the con-
vergence settings. It also displayed the grid in a curved fashion so it looked kind of 3D.

I got out of that and spent a LONG time getting my green grid straightened out,
then aligned the red and blue to it.

Not nice.

As Mr. Bob noted in another thread, it seems to take a few runs to get the
settings to really stick. My red keeps wandering off particularly in the upper left
area of the screen. I've finally gotten the hang of doing coarse then fine con-
vergence adjustments as well as skipping over a few lines when correcting one
intersection throws its neighbors off in the other direction. The strategy is to
start making the corrections 2, 3, 4 sometimes even 5 intersections away, work-
ing closer to the 'offending' location.


I still have my input (video4, TV, etc. and channel number) displayed in the 'wrong'
locations.

:)

I have a Hitachi Rear Projection TV, #43UWX10B. I'm getting a red line just outside of the images. I believe I need to tune the color bars. Any idea on how to tune them? Charlie

convergence.

You'll find a number of references to threads/pages that contain how-to info.
above. Here a few tips:

o sometimes in order to get a convergence point corrected, you will have to
start two or more points to the right or left of the one you're really trying
to correct. You'll see what I mean once you start making corrections.

o going to the coarse correction mode is a useful tool.

o don't touch the green unless you absolutely have to.

o don't worry too much about the blurriness of the blue.

o make sure your eyes are lined up with the point you're trying to correct.
Just being off by a few degrees makes it appear a convergence point is
off when it's really a case of your viewing angle.

Good luck!

:)

My father has a Hitachi 57F510. I did an auto Magic Focus. When it was done, the picture was distorted toward the top of the screen. I did it again and still the picture is wrong. The picture is bent upwards. I guess you could say "U" shaped. Is this an easy fix or should I be worried?

My father has a Hitachi 57F510. I did an auto Magic Focus. When it was done, the picture was distorted toward the top of the screen. I did it again and still the picture is wrong. The picture is bent upwards. I guess you could say "U" shaped. Is this an easy fix or should I be worried?
You might have to manually reset the geometry in DCAM. See links in the first post of this thread.

Matt

My father has a Hitachi 57F510. I did an auto Magic Focus. When it was done, the picture was distorted toward the top of the screen. I did it again and still the picture is wrong. The picture is bent upwards. I guess you could say "U" shaped. Is this an easy fix or should I be worried?

I don't suppose anyone knows if the 51F510 shares the same geometry measurements as the 51SWX20B? I used to have the 51SWX20B and I ordered a geometry template based on the specification in the service manual. I have used it to realign my geometry using the DCAM control many times with great success. I don't have the 51SWX20B anymore (regret getting rid of it), but I do have the template and I would be happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping.

Mark

I don't suppose anyone knows if the 51F510 shares the same geometry measurements as the 51SWX20B? I used to have the 51SWX20B and I ordered a geometry template based on the specification in the service manual. I have used it to realign my geometry using the DCAM control many times with great success. I don't have the 51SWX20B anymore (regret getting rid of it), but I do have the template and I would be happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping.

Mark

Does the size of the set matter, because my father's is a 57" and you're talking about a 51".

Where does one obtain this item? There's a posting in HDTVoice that's sup-
posed to lead to a site that has them, but the link is bad (and has been bad
for months...).

I have the 53SWX10B.

Thanks!

:)

Hi all, if this isn't the right spot for this, colud someone please point me in the right direction.

I just inherited a 51F510 from a friend. The screen is growing dim, picture looks okay. From what I gathered so far, it could be a board? Please advise and thanks for havnig such an amazing forum.

Hi all, if this isn't the right spot for this, colud someone please point me in the right direction.

I just inherited a 51F510 from a friend. The screen is growing dim, picture looks okay. From what I gathered so far, it could be a board? Please advise and thanks for havnig such an amazing forum.

Best bet might be to post this question on the "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV" thread here on the RPTV forum. Get to most of the CRT-related traffic there.

Where does one obtain this item? There's a posting in HDTVoice that's sup-
posed to lead to a site that has them, but the link is bad (and has been bad
for months...).

I have the 53SWX10B.

Thanks!

:)

If you have the service manual & said manual has a picture of the DCAM groid w/ dimensions (the newer Hit CRT RPTV sms I've seen do), you might be able to dump the image w/ dimensions onto Adobe and do a .pdf of it. Then take the file to Kinkos (or other print shop w/ an AutoCAD) and get a full size version printed on either clear mylar or translucent vellum.

A guy who had a Hit F59 did this & posted them on the F59 Tweaks thread way back in Feb 07. Unfortunately, the F59s only come 51, 57, or 65 inches.

If I can come across the old Hitachi Pocket Convergence Guide (used by techs for various CRT RPTV models) and it has the jig w. dimensions, I can PM it to you.

Jeff, that convergence guide is downloadable from my site, look back at the front page of the tweaks thread.

Jeff, that convergence guide is downloadable from my site, look back at the front page of the tweaks thread.

Even better. Thanks, Lee.

Thanks, will do.