Well the techinician came out and opened up the panel and determined that i need a new SS board (he had a heavy accent so i hope i understood correctly). He was not sure what caused the SS board to go, but that it needs to be replaced. I plan to call panasonic to get a price for this part. Stay tuned...

The SS board has been replaced. 8UY is working again.

Looking for TNPA2534ae (sc BOARD) for TH42PWD5UY. Anyone have one lying around that they want to sell.....or does anyone stock used...lastly who sells them the cheapest...cheaper than the panasonic 513.51. Does everyone give 150 core? Any help much appreciated.

my 42PZ700 died today. I've had it for 2 weeks.
7x flashing power light.
Called Panasonic .. no one was there because of the weather (yeesh) so called BB - I was 4 days passed the replacement date - (I ordered at Xmas - took them 2 weeks to get it to me.)

Called Kromer Radio on BB advice, should be up and running again by Wednesday.
Judging by all the posts here, this seems to be a recall level problem.

I love my TV and it gives the best picture I've ever seen, obviously that doesn't matter if i can't turn it ON!!!
Oh well.

I too have a TH42-PW6 (Manufacturing date June 2003 and S/N YB3340477) and I inherited from my brother. He reported no problems with it to me. However I have suffered the blink issue and the display shutting down.

It appears to be an overheat problem and an external fan placed facing the lower rear right quarter solves the problem.

As per the advice here on this thread I investigated the IC551 and took the rear panel off. The part was indeed a STRF6668B. Advice from Signals UK was that the heatsink compound may have dried out and no longer effective and to check that rather than replace as the likelihood was that the STRF6668B would either work or not and not be intermittent I checked this and replaced it. I also tried the hot/cod method by using a hairdryer to heat up the power board and the IC551. However the screen did not shut down - its heatsink was very hot though. I tried other boards and again no shutdown.

I would like to clarify the behaviour of the IC551 and if it relates to the screen overheating and shutting down. Should I just replace it?

I would also like to check if this display is meant to have fans as fans are mentioned in this thread and I cannot find them in the unit. Are they meant to be there or am I missing something?

I am considering adding PC fans. Any advice is welcome in adding fans.

I too have a TH42-PW6 (Manufacturing date June 2003 and S/N YB3340477) and I inherited from my brother. He reported no problems with it to me. However I have suffered the blink issue and the display shutting down.

It appears to be an overheat problem and an external fan placed facing the lower rear right quarter solves the problem.

As per the advice here on this thread I investigated the IC551 and took the rear panel off. The part was indeed a STRF6668B. Advice from Signals UK was that the heatsink compound may have dried out and no longer effective and to check that rather than replace as the likelihood was that the STRF6668B would either work or not and not be intermittent I checked this and replaced it. I also tried the hot/cod method by using a hairdryer to heat up the power board and the IC551. However the screen did not shut down - its heatsink was very hot though. I tried other boards and again no shutdown.

I would like to clarify the behaviour of the IC551 and if it relates to the screen overheating and shutting down. Should I just replace it?

I would also like to check if this display is meant to have fans as fans are mentioned in this thread and I cannot find them in the unit. Are they meant to be there or am I missing something?

I am considering adding PC fans. Any advice is welcome in adding fans.


1.) Replace the IC with the newer type with suffix M as outlined earlier in this thread.

2.) All "W" model Plasmas did not originally come with fans. Add them if you wish.

TW

Thanks Techniwizard.

I will order it up and get the 'M' suffix part.

Is there any advice out there on the best way to add fans?

I've looked thru these forums but have not found quite the same issue for my model. I have a TH50PHD7UY - heard a pop coming from the set and it turned off. Tried to turn the set on again, and I get a green LED followed by the red LED blinking 7 times. Does this indicate bad fan rotation on the 7UY? Seems like the pop would indicate a more serious issue. Any help is appreciated.

Well, I'd just like to throw this out there. I'm getting the 7 blink code with my only 32 day old 42pz77u! Bad thing about it is though is that sears won't even take it back for an exchange as its 2 day's past its 30 day policy. Give me a break.

Anyone know am I best off calling the panasonic desk and let them come out and diagnose/fix under warranty, or will this TV never be the same again?

TIA

my 42z77u just did the same thing today. i bought it during boxing week. i tried to turn it on, it just shut itself off, and does the blink 7 times thing.

how did you get your's fixed? i wonder if sears will be nice to me and give me an exchange even though it's been just over 2 months.

unfortunately panasonic canada is not open on weekends so i have to call again on monday.

sucks how a new model can have a similar problem to old models.

I have a TH-42PA25 Date Aug 2004. This is my Fathers TV and he just had a local service company replace the PS board and I think they changed the SU but he is not sure. It lasted about 2 months and now it is shutting down with 7 off blink codes. It will come on if I unplug it for a few seconds and may play 30 min or hours. It will squeel when switching off with the remote. He just spent $600 for the last service that did not last. They also kept the TV for 10 weeks. Could this be the Scan Driver 2 defect? I have not had time to pull the cover but will do so tomorrow. I hate to spend any more big money on this set because I can get him a Visio for about $800 but if it is an easy fix I would like to help him out with this set. I only have a DVOM and a soldering iron with me right now.
Thanks

Sorry my poor connection caused me to double post
Thanks

I have a TH-42PA25 Date Aug 2004. This is my Fathers TV and he just had a local service company replace the PS board and I think they changed the SU but he is not sure. It lasted about 2 months and now it is shutting down with 7 off blink codes. It will come on if I unplug it for a few seconds and may play 30 min or hours. It will squeel when switching off with the remote. He just spent $600 for the last service that did not last. They also kept the TV for 10 weeks. Could this be the Scan Driver 2 defect? I have not had time to pull the cover but will do so tomorrow. I hate to spend any more big money on this set because I can get him a Visio for about $800 but if it is an easy fix I would like to help him out with this set. I only have a DVOM and a soldering iron with me right now.
Thanks

Sounds like the service company replaced the PS with the old style that had the thermal IC 551, the main subject of this thread.

Check if the PS board is numbered TNPA2841AB and that IC 551 (lower right corner) has a suffix "B". If so that is probably the problem.

The newer PS PCB should be numberd TNPA2841AH and IC 551 should have an "M" suffix.

You have 2 choices, whine to the local servicer that he should have used the newer IC/PCB or replace the IC 551 yourself following the directions in this thread. Part # C5HABZZ000123 for IC 551.

TW

Thank You for the reply.

I had him find his invoice and they said they replaced the Power Supply TNPA2841AH and the Y Sustain Board STRF6668M. This sounds hooky because the number he has for the Y Sustain board is the same as IC551.

Anyway I removed the cover and checked IC551 and it is F6668B and have it running flat on a padded table with the cover off. I hear a loud buzz from the transformer closest to IC551. I also noticed IC551's heat sink gets very hot!

I can't get it to mess up now with the cover off. It cut off 2 times last night within 1.5 hours. I wonder if rigging a 80 mm fan into the back cover blowing on IC551 will help the problem.

If you have any ideas it would be great. I am making a list of all the part numbers before I put it together again in case I need to order a different board.

Thank You for the reply.

I had him find his invoice and they said they replaced the Power Supply TNPA2841AH and the Y Sustain Board STRF6668M. This sounds hooky because the number he has for the Y Sustain board is the same as IC551.

Anyway I removed the cover and checked IC551 and it is F6668B and have it running flat on a padded table with the cover off. I hear a loud buzz from the transformer closest to IC551. I also noticed IC551's heat sink gets very hot!

I can't get it to mess up now with the cover off. It cut off 2 times last night within 1.5 hours. I wonder if rigging a 80 mm fan into the back cover blowing on IC551 will help the problem.

If you have any ideas it would be great. I am making a list of all the part numbers before I put it together again in case I need to order a different board.

Part # is a bit out of order (LOL)

Order and replace IC 551 part # C5HABZZ000123 do not use the part # stamped on the IC. Total cost around $25 with shipping.

There are complete instructions including pix in this thread or an archive of this thread. To remove, cut the leads close to the PCB and desolder one at a time. Clean out all feedthrough holes and install the new IC. Screw it to the heatsink before soldering. Be sure to solder both top and bottom of the board.

Board TNPA2841AH would only have the newer IC. Board TNPA2841 or TNPA2841AB had the older IC.

In a pinch, removing the heatsink screw and adding more thermal heatsink compound may help for awhile.

TW

TW

I put it on an HD channel and it shut off after a half hour. All the LED's behind the set went out as well. As I said it has a F6668B for IC551. SOB thats the bad chip discussed in the thread. I will order the new chip and install it in a few weeks on the next visit.

Meanwhile I ripped a 80mm case fan out of the computer I built for my Mother and cut a hole in the grill behind IC551 where it will blow right on it. I will use a wall cube to power it for now.

EDIT:

Been running with the fan for over an hour and its still looking good. Ordered the new chip.

Part # is a bit out of order (LOL)

Order and replace IC 551 part # C5HABZZ000123 do not use the part # stamped on the IC. Total cost around $25 with shipping.

There are complete instructions including pix in this thread or an archive of this thread. To remove, cut the leads close to the PCB and desolder one at a time. Clean out all feedthrough holes and install the new IC. Screw it to the heatsink before soldering. Be sure to solder both top and bottom of the board.

Board TNPA2841AH would only have the newer IC. Board TNPA2841 or TNPA2841AB had the older IC.

In a pinch, removing the heatsink screw and adding more thermal heatsink compound may help for awhile.

TW

TW

really stupid question, but how did you remove the screw? The heat sink right accross from it does'ntallow me to get a screwdriver near it.

Did you remove the whole heatsink?

If I remember correctly (been over a year since I did it, no problems since)
I needed a right-angle screwdriver to get to it.
I definitely didn't remove anything else.
-S

Yup, right angled screwdriver.

In a pinch, one of those cheesy hex phillips ratchet things will also work.

TW

Arg - Don't have one of them handy. Will try and get one tomorrow.

Do you guys know if a 45 watt soldering iron will do the trick? I bought a 15w this morning only to find out it did next to nothing on the solders to the board. Hoping 45 is enough, but I thought I read that someone had a 120 watt soldering gun??

I called a bunch of TV repair places in Boston (Cambridge area) and none of them agreed to solder the board. They said they repair TV's by looking at them first and determining what is wrong, then sending out what is needed to the appropriate place....oy

If you use a longer (5-6 inch) thin shank phillips screwdriver with a smaller handle that doesn't hit the adjacent heat sink, you can slightly flex the board enough to just get a bite on the screw enough to loosen it. Cheap drivers work better than your Stanley or Craftsman as the cheap ones have the Asian metric taper on their tips - fits the screw better.

45 watts should do it. 15 watts is for mini-IC work.

Once you get the screw out, bend the thing forward and cut the leads with a small diagonal cutter, then remove the IC body. Unsolder and remove the old pins one at a time.

Heat the remaining solder and remove with solder wick and poke a hole with a toothpick to keep it open.

Insert the new IC, tighten the screw, then solder the pins. One or two need solder on BOTH sides of the board so check carefully.

Look for any solder mishaps, reinstall and give it the 60 Hz test.

TW

Hi everyone
Does this model TH-42PA50H with about 7-8 blinks has the same problem? Anyone can help: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1007144

Sorry, no, the PA50 chassis is very different than the PA20.

Power LED 6-7 blinks is undocumented. Could be the PA or PB board in this model but I have not worked on this consumer model.

TW

My tv has the 'problem'. I should receive the 'part' today sometime. Tonight I dismantled the unit quite easily. Based on all the tens of thousands of boards, comments and blogs, I was still somewhat unsure exactly what to do. Every single post I have seen is very specific, however I have found that my experience in reading all this stuff for the past few years still left me wondering when I actually came down to doing it. When some posts say 'remove the back panel', there is a back panel that looks removeable, however it is not, and shouldnt be removed.

I am going to make this easy on everyone from here on out. When I receive the part today I will just make a little video and put it on YouTube. I already have the back off the TV and see IC551.

I honestly cannot believe how some TV repairman can sleep at night after charging people hundreds of dollars for what seems to me to be a 30 minute job from start to finish. If the part is $20, and your hourly is 80, charge $60 flat to fix this issue.

Stay tuned for a VERY simple video of exactly what to do to resolve this MONUMENTAL issue that has perplexed users for years. I honestly cannot think of a single hardware problem that has taken up more forum space in the history of hardware problems.

Everyone should thank TW for all his dedication, understanding, community service, and consistent "Control V's" over the years.

--Almost Happy...Video at 10.

I noticed that TW just made his 777th post.

Lucky Numbers TW, thanks for all your free services...

I was given this unit by my father after he upgraded to a 50". It worked for about a month, but now I am having the following problem with it: When I turn it on I get a green light, a flash on the screen of the color spectrum, and then shutdown with 2 red blinks. I have been reading through all of the threads for the past few hours but have not found anything that deals with this problem directly. This unit was manufactured in March 2004 and the S/N is YG4230256. I have checked the IC551 part, and I have the newer (M) version. I am guessing that the problem lies with the SD, SU, SC, or SCAN Driver 1 as determined by TW's BLINK diagnostic PDF file posted back in 2002. Am I on the right track? Can anyone that has had this exact problem assist me with solution? Thank you in advance for your time. This is a very helpful forum!

I noticed that TW just made his 777th post.

Lucky Numbers TW, thanks for all your free services...

Wowser, just noticed that myself, thanks!

T Wiz

I was given this unit by my father after he upgraded to a 50". It worked for about a month, but now I am having the following problem with it: When I turn it on I get a green light, a flash on the screen of the color spectrum, and then shutdown with 2 red blinks. I have been reading through all of the threads for the past few hours but have not found anything that deals with this problem directly. This unit was manufactured in March 2004 and the S/N is YG4230256. I have checked the IC551 part, and I have the newer (M) version. I am guessing that the problem lies with the SD, SU, SC, or SCAN Driver 1 as determined by TW's BLINK diagnostic PDF file posted back in 2002. Am I on the right track? Can anyone that has had this exact problem assist me with solution? Thank you in advance for your time. This is a very helpful forum!

Gut feeling ? bad driver IC on the SU or SD boards.

Quick test - with power OFF, alternately pull the SU or SD from where it plugs into the SC board (all on the left as viewed from the rear).

Leave the ribbon cables to the panel connected. Let the board hang where it will not short anything. Power up and look for either a good top or bottom 1/2 pix whichever board you remove. Do not remove both at the same time.
If removing neither brings a pix, the SC (and maybe SU and/or SD) are bad.

TW

Gut feeling ? bad driver IC on the SU or SD boards.

Quick test - with power OFF, alternately pull the SU or SD from where it plugs into the SC board (all on the left as viewed from the rear).

Leave the ribbon cables to the panel connected. Let the board hang where it will not short anything. Power up and look for either a good top or bottom 1/2 pix whichever board you remove. Do not remove both at the same time.
If removing neither brings a pix, the SC (and maybe SU and/or SD) are bad.

TW

Thank you for the the suggestion and the reply. When I disconnect the boards, should I disconnect the corresponding power supply to the board as well? Also, Is there a consumer model that is the similar to the industrial model I have? Thanks again.

DP

Hi all
I've got a late summer '03 PWD6 which has just developed this problem :( .
Thanks to the excellent comments here, I've hopefully got the solution on it's way in the post.
Before I start the repair can I clarify one point, I'm sure I've heard that plasma screens should be kept upright, is this correct?
It would be very tempting to lay the panel face down to work on but not if it'll cause more problems :D

Cheers, Paul

Hi all
I've got a late summer '03 PWD6 which has just developed this problem :( .
Thanks to the excellent comments here, I've hopefully got the solution on it's way in the post.
Before I start the repair can I clarify one point, I'm sure I've heard that plasma screens should be kept upright, is this correct?
It would be very tempting to lay the panel face down to work on but not if it'll cause more problems :D

Cheers, Paul

You may lay it flat for short periods of time such as this repair, installing slot boards, etc.

It is mainly while in transport that it must remain vertical.

T Wiz

Hi all
I've got a late summer '03 PWD6 which has just developed this problem :( .
Thanks to the excellent comments here, I've hopefully got the solution on it's way in the post.
Before I start the repair can I clarify one point, I'm sure I've heard that plasma screens should be kept upright, is this correct?
It would be very tempting to lay the panel face down to work on but not if it'll cause more problems :D

Cheers, Paul

Yo guys - just wanted to report back. 1 hour later and some very very careful soldering work, my Panny is back up and running. Been running 6 hours straight now without problems - I actually fell asleep while "testing" it! Thanks everyone for your help.

To answer Paden73's question, I put my TV flat so I could unscrew the board (with the chip we need to replace), then put it back on the stand while I did the replacement on the board.

One thing to note - you really need a solder vacuum or something to scoop up the solder from the 5 holes. I picked one up at radio shack for $7 (or something around there) and it was really critical to getting the new chip in. I had trouble initially with the solder vacuum, but after some trial and error, was able to get all the solder from the holes so I could insert the replacement chip. The hardest part was the first step - removing the old legs! Maybe it was due to my lack of inexperience (I got better as time passed), but I had difficulty removing one of the legs, which was made worse by the fact i didn't have any needle nosed pliars or something narrow to grab the legs with (ended up using tweezers!). Anyway, I would suggest just being patient and taking your time. Once the old legs are out and the old solder vacuumed up, it was pretty easy!

Anyways, thanks everyone for your help - ya'll saved me big $$! Paden73 - if you need help, PM me.

Thanks for the info :D

Cheers, Paul

Earlier this month October 2003 42PDWD6UY developed shut down problem :(. Started search online for a solution and found this forum and read and read and read...this started a long time ago! Patient enough to put the puzzle pieces together. Confirmed transistor IC551 had "P" suffix. Ordered part # C5HABZZ00123 ("M" suffix) for about $27 with shipping. Not experienced with soldering electronics, so removed board and took to small tv repair shop in Northern VA: Paul's Audio and Video, 2221 N. Pershing Dr, Arlington, VA 22201 (703-522-5151). Paul has 30+ years experience and removed and replaced the IC for $60. So for less than $90, we're back in business! :D Trey

Sourced my component from Signals UK mentioned earlier & although unfortunately the first one went missing, it's replacement arrived quickly.
Fitted it this evening & so far so good... fingers crossed!

FYI the following is from the Signals website:
"Note: The Replacement IC C5HABZZ00123 is no longer available, The type number has now reverted back to a new STRF6668 B!"

Hopefully all remains well with my panel, many thanks to all the previous posters!

Cheers, Paul

When changing the SU and SD, you can remove the sef tapping screw that holds the bezel, lift it slightly and move the bezel forward to give better access to those troublesome ribbon cables. They must fit exactly. If not the unit may still shutdown, show black horizontal lines, or worse yet, short out the panel.

T Wiz

Hey all,
I've got a Panasonic TH-42PX6U with 7 blinks. I unplugged the SU board, bottom half of the screen was ok, so I ordered a replacement SU board. Put it in, the full screen appeared but with black lines across the top, and then a few minutes later, the TV powered down and went back to 7 blinks.

If I only leave the SU board plugged in, the top half of the screen comes on, dark grey color with black lines, then powers down. I've tried replugging the ribbon cables in multiple times, I don't think their alignment/fit is the issue.

Did I short out the SU board? Is there any other way apart from ordering another one to verify that it is in fact the culprit here?

And if I did short it out, does anyone have any spares laying around? :)

thanks,
Scott

Hey all,
I've got a Panasonic TH-42PX6U with 7 blinks. I unplugged the SU board, bottom half of the screen was ok, so I ordered a replacement SU board. Put it in, the full screen appeared but with black lines across the top, and then a few minutes later, the TV powered down and went back to 7 blinks.

If I only leave the SU board plugged in, the top half of the screen comes on, dark grey color with black lines, then powers down. I've tried replugging the ribbon cables in multiple times, I don't think their alignment/fit is the issue.

Did I short out the SU board? Is there any other way apart from ordering another one to verify that it is in fact the culprit here?

And if I did short it out, does anyone have any spares laying around? :)

thanks,
Scott

What is the board part number ??? TNPA????

TW

Tnpa3818

Techniwizard,

I am new to the site. I could sure use some your help to troubleshoot and repair my Panasonic TH-37PD25. The TV is about 2 1/2 years old and just suddenly stiopped powering on. The power light flashes 12 times. I am certainly willing to try a repair but could sure use some guidance. Rough quote to repair based on description of problem was $800.00. Iust not sure it is worth repair unless I find part and do myself. Thank you in advance for any help you could provide.

I have a TH-42PA20 that has the 5 blink problem & took it to a local shop & was told they can't fix it. Could I get some info from somebody on what I can do to save my TV. Thanks in advance for the help.

Hey all,
I've got a Panasonic TH-42PX6U with 7 blinks. I unplugged the SU board, bottom half of the screen was ok, so I ordered a replacement SU board. Put it in, the full screen appeared but with black lines across the top, and then a few minutes later, the TV powered down and went back to 7 blinks.

If I only leave the SU board plugged in, the top half of the screen comes on, dark grey color with black lines, then powers down. I've tried replugging the ribbon cables in multiple times, I don't think their alignment/fit is the issue.

Did I short out the SU board? Is there any other way apart from ordering another one to verify that it is in fact the culprit here?

And if I did short it out, does anyone have any spares laying around? :)

thanks,
Scott

Doing some more research, and talking to a couple repair shops locally, it seems like the power supply is a very possible culprit. Can anyone advise me on how to diagnose whether my power supply is working or not?

thanks,
Scott

Doing some more research, and talking to a couple repair shops locally, it seems like the power supply is a very possible culprit. Can anyone advise me on how to diagnose whether my power supply is working or not?

thanks,
Scott

Probably not the PS. The black lines were caused by misaligned ribbon cables. They must fit EXACT or you will get this symptom. The mismatch probably toasted the new SU board and now possibly took part of the SC or SS boards with it.

7 Blinks is SU, SD, or SS, no mention of power supply.

T Wiz

hi there, i have a panasonic TH-42PX60B plasma, following a fuse blowing and being changed in the power supply (plug) i now have power to the set again but 10 blinks and then nothing any help much appreciated ?????

I have a TH-50PX25 that is dead. The power LED blinks 7 times upon power on. If anyone has access to the service manual for this model, I would like to know how to narrow down which board is the problem. I was able to get a hold of the manual for the 50PX75 and followed those troubleshooting instructions. Basically, It said to unplug SC2 and SC20. Power still went off after about a minute. Then It said to check that pin 1 of P25 was 15V. Mine was 12V (though I don't know if this is normal for the PX25). Then it said to check VSUS at P2 which was 172V.

I'm not sure what to do from here. According to the PX75 manual this means a bad SS board. But I don't know if this procedure can work on the PX25. Any advice?????

I purchased my TH-42PA20, 11-03-2003. It has worked flawless until last week. That is when I jioned the 7-5 red light blink club. It shuts down, power button useless. Unplugging, saying a quick Prayer, plugging back in, the unit may work fine, or shut itself back off. Called Panasonic, they told me I needed to take it to a service center. They WOULD not comment about the shut down issue at all. I am glad I found this forum. I have read every post available. TW seems to be very helpful. Panasonic service center in Montgomery, Alabama, 3D Electronics wants $299.99 to look at the unit, with a $199.99 charge for in home pick up. So I will be out $500! I did pay over $4000.00 for the TH-42PA20 in 2003. I ordered another Panasonic, this time I went to 50 inch model. Hopefully, I will not be foolish for doing so. TW do service centers have some kind of ratings? I found another service center in Columbus, GA (102 miles). I think I will take the TH-42PA20 there, rather than the 15 mile trip to Montgomery.

I purchased my TH-42PA20, 11-03-2003. It has worked flawless until last week. That is when I jioned the 7-5 red light blink club. It shuts down, power button useless. Unplugging, saying a quick Prayer, plugging back in, the unit may work fine, or shut itself back off. Called Panasonic, they told me I needed to take it to a service center. They WOULD not comment about the shut down issue at all. I am glad I found this forum. I have read every post available. TW seems to be very helpful. Panasonic service center in Montgomery, Alabama, 3D Electronics wants $299.99 to look at the unit, with a $199.99 charge for in home pick up. So I will be out $500! I did pay over $4000.00 for the TH-42PA20 in 2003. I ordered another Panasonic, this time I went to 50 inch model. Hopefully, I will not be foolish for doing so. TW do service centers have some kind of ratings? I found another service center in Columbus, GA (102 miles). I think I will take the TH-42PA20 there, rather than the 15 mile trip to Montgomery.

Service Centers need to maintain certain standards to retain their Factory Authorization. Not sure what those are but there are periodic reviews. It may shock you to know that those prices are not out of line. That new models are 1/4 the price originally paid does not lessen the complexity or skills required to diagnose and repair these devices.

That being said, there is enough info in this thread to repair this particular problem on this particular chassis produced during this particular time frame.

If your IC 551 has the noted suffix "B", it is a pretty safe bet that replacing it with the newer suffix "M" IC will take care of the problem.

As some folks have done, check the part on the board. If it is suffix "B", order the new part and either DIY or take the board and the new part to a "TV Shop" and have the part replaced for some customary fee.

You may get lucky and only have to invest $100 - $150 total, and not have to drive 200 miles.

T Wiz

Thank you TW. I will receive my new Panasonic TH-50PZ85U early next week.
Panasonic is my choice. TH-42PA20 perform well flawlessly until last week.
After mounting the 50 inch, I will take the 42 place back in the stand and remove the back panel. I will look to see the parts mentioned in this thread.
Not being a TW myself, this maybe as far as repairs I will attempt. Thank you for your advice.

TW,
I have the link to order parts. I read where fans need to be replaced. How many fans should I order for the TH-42PA20? I have the fan part number. I could not find the order part number for IC551M to replace the IC551B? Hopefully my new 50 inch will arrive tomorrow. My plan is to order the parts and pay for their installation
in hopes to save money.
Thanks for all the help!

TW,
I have the link to order parts. I read where fans need to be replaced. How many fans should I order for the TH-42PA20? I have the fan part number. I could not find the order part number for IC551M to replace the IC551B? Hopefully my new 50 inch will arrive tomorrow. My plan is to order the parts and pay for their installation
in hopes to save money.
Thanks for all the help!

AFAIK, there are no fans in the TH42PA20.

IC 551 is C5HABZZ00123

T Wiz

The people on this forum have been extremely helpful so far, especially Techniwizard. So thank you all for that.
Techniwizard, I need help with the last few steps here. I have a 50PX25 that blinks 7 times when it is turned on. I would like to figure out which board(s) are bad so I can replace them and enjoy this TV again.

A troubleshooting guide would be very helpful, or at least the page with diagrams for the 7 blink problem. In the meantime, I found 2 resistors on the SC board that are burnt out. They are 0.22 ohms so I am going to try replacing those with new ones and see what happens. I know that often times more than one board is faulty so I really need to know how to narrow it down.

The 50PX25 uses many of the same boards as the 50PX20, 50PHD6, 50PHW6, so a manual for any of those will probably work as well.

LED Chart for TH50PX25UP

7 Blinks is the SCAN area, where you found the 2 bad resistors.
Try to power up with the SU or SD disconnected from the SC board. Leave the ribbons to the panel connected.

Look for a good upper or lower 1/2 screen. The removed PCB is likely bad if the other 1/2 screen appears.

TW

Try this link:

http://tsn.pasc.panasonic.com/viewing/NA/TH-42PX25U-P/SVC/PVAccel.html

It includes the 50 inch unit.

Thanks Techniwizard. I tried turning the power on with either the SU or SD board disconnected from the SC board. No luck. Just the same 7 blinks in either case.

When I press the power button to turn it on, the led is solid red, after 25 seconds, 2 clicks, then 5 seconds go by and another click, then the 7 blink pattern starts.

TW replaced my TH-42PA20 last night with my new TH-50PZ85U. The TH-42PA20 has a build date of AUG 2003. I saw pictures earlier in this thread with the back cover removed. You corrected that post with the explantion that the photos were of the TH-42PA20. What should I expect or be cautious doing removing back cover looking for the IC551?

TW replaced my TH-42PA20 last night with my new TH-50PZ85U. The TH-42PA20 has a build date of AUG 2003. I saw pictures earlier in this thread with the back cover removed. You corrected that post with the explantion that the photos were of the TH-42PA20. What should I expect or be cautious doing removing back cover looking for the IC551?

Leave it unplugged for several minutes so the power supplies will discharge any residual voltages to prevent shock hazards.

Then the worst part is keeping track of all the screws and their locations. There are a couple different types and lengths so it may pay to make a small diagram and/or borrow the cupcake tins from the Mrs. to keep things in order.

TW

Thanks Techniwizard. I tried turning the power on with either the SU or SD board disconnected from the SC board. No luck. Just the same 7 blinks in either case.

When I press the power button to turn it on, the led is solid red, after 25 seconds, 2 clicks, then 5 seconds go by and another click, then the 7 blink pattern starts.

Sounds like the SC and either the SU and SD are bad.
If you can find the TNPAxxxx numbers from the boards I can take a peek to see if I have any spares.

TW

The SC board is a TNPA2914 and I know for sure that it is bad because there are 2 burnt out resistors on it. I should be receiving 2 new resistors today that I can use to replace the 2 burnt out ones. I am curious to see what happens when I do that. Do you think that is a good idea? What are the chances that the bad resistors is the only problem with the SC board? I have attached pictures of the bad resistors.

I have a TH-42PA20 that has the 5 blink problem & took it to a local shop & was told they can't fix it. Could I get some info from somebody on what I can do to save my TV. Thanks in advance for the help.

This entire thread has the full scoop. IF your unit is June-Aug 2003 production or a very small number of Sept-Nov 2003 units

AND

IC 551 on the TNPA2841 power supply has a suffix B, you need the new IC 551 with a suffux M Part # C5HABZZ00123

TNPA 2841xx and TNPA2841AB usually have the OLD IC.
TNPA2841AH should have the NEW IC already, in which case you have another type of problem.

TW

I just soldered on the 2 new 0.22 ohm resistors. Now, when I turn it on, the red led just stays on solid the whole time. No blinking but I also don't get any response from anything else. I am not sure if that is better than 7 blinks, but at least it was a change. What should I try next?

I just soldered on the 2 new 0.22 ohm resistors. Now, when I turn it on, the red led just stays on solid the whole time. No blinking but I also don't get any response from anything else. I am not sure if that is better than 7 blinks, but at least it was a change. What should I try next?

I would suspect there is something more bad on the SC dragging down the 5 volt supply. This voltage drives the D board and the diagnostics reporting but is probably "asleep" now due to no juice.

Swapping boards will probably be the only cure at this point.

I've been traveling so haven't checked my board "inventory" for this and a few other posters here. I hope to get a chance next week.

The Pro series 11 PH 720p models are due out so it has been a madhouse.

TW

Thanks TW. You have been very helpful. Let me know if you have a SC board. I will take a break for now since I can't do much more.

I tried isolating the SC board by unplugging SC2 and SC20. When I do that the fans turn on and stay on. The red power led just stays red. When SC2 and SC20 are plugged in, it goes into the 7 blink pattern. Does that confirm that the SC board is bad?

I also checked the voltages from P2 that go to SC2. There are 2 pins that are supposed to read 190V according to the manual but are only reading 178V. I hope that is not a problem.

Any luck with the SC board?

Any luck with the SC board?

Look for a PM.

Cant believe; im back here again and got the 7 blinks a second time.

I've done the repair once and changed the component on the board (i did not solder myself). Guess i gotta read up again and confirm its same problem.

Bummer.

Great that im not alone though ;)

Seems to be happening every 3 years for me...

- Ps. No whining sound this time ?

Checked the board; looks fine visually.

No whining sound this time; could it be same IC problem ?.

Guys; if i order from MCM; is the new IC part now;

MCM Part #: P-C5HABZZ00123
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/P-C5HABZZ00115

?.

Same fit and everything ?.

Thx for help !

The "123" number is the replacement, "115" was the original that should not be used.

C5HABZZ00123 is also available here:

http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/epartr/

TW

Ok; changed the IC; installed all and still 7 blinks.

Whats the next step; change the whole Power Supply board that the IC is on or ?.
Anyone know where i can order that board ?.

Other option ofcourse to upgrade to a 50 size :)

Thx for the help !.

Hmm; is this what i need or i am i just gambling ?.

Reading through the forum, it seems people have the same issue with the TH-42PW5 but there is nothing specific I can find referencing that it would be the same parts to fix the issue.

I was wondering if anyone has fixed this model and how easy it would be for a novice to DIY.

Cheers!

Hey everyone, i have just received a Fujitsu P42VHA20US PDP tv. It turns on for a second, then shuts off and the red led blinks four times. Upon opening up the set i notice that it is a panasonic tv, and with a quick googling, it appears to be a th-42pa20. Could anyone confirm this and if so, what is causing the 4 blinks? After some extensive reading for the past hour or so i have come across many things, and believe that the low voltage output from the power supply is not working correctly. I believe the 17v output to the ss and sc boards may either be malfunctioning.

After reading this forum, i would like a bit of clarification on the diode which was causing over sensitivity on the voltage regulation. This set was manufactured january of 2003.

Any help is always greatly appreciated.

I need help. We have a Panasonic 42 inch plasma TH-42PD50U television we purchased in April of 2006 for $2000. Two days ago it went out. The power light flashes 7 times, then there is a pause. I called Panasonic. The rep referred my to 2 places in Dallas. Only one would come out to my house. When they got here, they looked and told us that the part that we need (the SU something board) costs $250 plus their $50 trip charge.....so they brought the new part the next day and put it in. We checked the tv and it worked. We left the rest of the day until 6pm. When we turned the tv on one hour later there was a pop, sounded like a circuit breaking, then the screen went out. So, great!!! I called the man first thing this morning, he said he would replace the part free of charge, but he thinks that it's going out again because of the the main board. He said that it would cost $1200 to replace, so should just trash our tv. We are not on board with that idea at all. Needless to say I called Panasonic today to see what they could do. I have to fax them my receipt for the tv and service and supposedly they are going to see what they can do because they value their customers. We'll see!!! So, are there any good technical people that have some advice??? We are really good at fixing things if we have some direction. We put a stop payment for the check to pay for the part and labor, not the service fee, so I am positive that they are not going to help us. We will pay them once our tv is fixed. HELP!!! My husband is super pissed!!!! Count us in on that Class Action law suit for Panasonic Mr. bbad4all.

Hello, i had the 7 blinking lights do me in last night. i was watching tv and it just turned off. i called around and got some quotes, but i don't think it would be worth it to have it fixed (most expensive was over $600). do the newer tvs have these same problems? does it affect the 50 inchers also? what is the failure rate of panasonic plasmas, if anybody knows?

is there a DIY for my model floating around the net? i would not be afraid to open this sucker up.

i loved my panny, but i'm hesitant to buy another if this may be common for panasonics. should i just take it in the rear and buy another panasonic(with an extended warranty this time)?

i bought the tv in april of 2006, 6 months past my credit cards warranty coverage. i thought it would be fine if i gave myself a 2 year safety net, turns out i was wrong. my panny was 2 1/2 years old R.I.P. :D

See this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14828369#post14828369

It should apply to your model as well.

Board #s:

TNPAxxxx numbers are what is silk-screened on the boards.

The TXNxxxxxxx numbers are for parts ordering only.

The two (TXN) numbers listed under each board sub to each other, either may be used.


SU

TNPA3818

(TXNSU1BJTUJ)

(TXNSU1BJTUE)

SD

TNPA3819

(TXNSD1BJTUJ)

(TXNSD1BJTUE)

SC

TNPA3814

(TXNSC1BJTUJ)

(TXNSC1BJTUE)

SS

TNPA3815

(TXNSS1BJTUJ)

(TXNSS1BJTUE)

Hello, i had the 7 blinking lights do me in last night. i was watching tv and it just turned off. i called around and got some quotes, but i don't think it would be worth it to have it fixed (most expensive was over $600).

Is there a DIY for my model floating around the net? i would not be afraid to open this sucker up.

After reading this thread, it really seems that one best option for an out-of-warranty TV is to buy a same model broken-screen TV, and replace the boards from that broken TV into the non-working TV until the problem is fixed.

For example, the poster above could have purchased a broken-screen Panasonic TH-42PX60U from eBay for $50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170267720649), where the seller was willing to take out all of the boards and ship them. Then, the poster above could have replaced the boards in his TV one-by-one until the unknown problem board is replaced.

Sure seems a much less expensive way to repair a TV, if a person is willing to obtain the parts by this method and replace the parts himself to save labor.

Comments??

That is definately a good option if you're comfortable opening up complex electronics and working with PC-"like" boards. I did exactly the same thing with my 425UY a while back, and it still works like a champ!

The key is finding a seller that is willing (and capable/competent) to open up the display, pull the boards, and send em off....

ok i opened up my tv... while trying to power on the tv, the SC and SS boards have a green led light that lights up for a split second, then the tv shuts off. is this an indication that the boards are ok (green means go)?

i didn't see any clear indication of a failure(scorchmarks). is there a way to check for a bad board, or should i really just replace all 4 boards?

thanks for the help, you made me decide to try to fix the problem instead of buying a brand new tv.

The lights do not mean too much. Usually, the relays click, the SS LED lights, The SC LED lights, and then there will be a shutdown.

It is very rare that you will find any burn marks or other signs of failure, no way to find a bad board (quickly anyway) except by substitution.

Alternately pulling the SU and SD one at a time and powering up looking for a good 1/2 screen either top or bottom can help isolate.

Check for a PM re: boards.

TW

thanks for responding so quickly TW,

ok, so the top board (su) is fine... i can see the menu on the screen!!!! the bottom board (sd) is not. it performs the shutdown with 7 blinks. so i assume that means the sd board is bad.

does the fact that i can see the top half of the screen when the su board is connected mean that the ss and sc boards are working properly?

both the sd and su boards connect to the sc board, so is it possible that the lower half of the sc board (since it connects to the sd board) is bad? alternatively, if it is possible that the lower half of the sc board can malfunction seperately from the top half, that could mean the sd board could be fine after all... and the sc board (lower half) is the problem. do i make any sense, or am i speaking jibberish???:confused:

also, in bruzzi's "Power Light Blinking Chart" the SC board is not listed as a possible "malfunctioning part" for 7 blinks. the SD, SU, and SS boards are.

the "driver SOS2 (SC floating voltage area)" is listed as the problem. so does that mean the SC board can also be the "malfuntioning part"? :confused:

Odds are that just the SD board is bad.

Look underneath (power off of course) on the component side at the square surface mount ICs, sometimes you may see a crack or other sign of overheating.

TW

Hi all!

I purchased a Panny TH-42PV70H 20 months ago in Singapore where I was based before. I shipped the set and have been using it for 8 weeks or so.

The Panny was connected to a voltage regulator that blew its fuse. A lapse of judgement, but I plugged the set to a power strip.

Then it made the red blinks and turned off.

I unplugged the set and plugged it again....the green light would blink for at least 4 times (not an accurate count), and I will see perfect picture and sound for a second or so. Then the screen would go blank and would do the series of red blinks until it ends. When you press the remote, the TV signifies detection by lighting the green LED, but that is about it.

I have been diligently reading the threads and while my query re: blinking has been answered (it is a service code), I did not see anyone talk about seeing a perfect screen + sound when they replug the set.

I hope that is a sign that it is just a simple trip that just needs time to reset. Any thoughts would be appreciated since the Panny technician here is already hinting a power board change (he does not even entertain the IC replacement that has been successful with many of our friends).

Potential damage for board replacement is 450 USD and 50 USD labor.

Cheers and hope you guys can help!

panasonic 42px60u build date 11/06 purchased 11/06

20 blinks and snow on screen, nothing else works....any ideas?

thanks in advance

panasonic 42px60u build date 11/06 purchased 11/06

20 blinks and snow on screen, nothing else works....any ideas?

thanks in advance

20 blinks is not a valid error code AFAIK, 2-12 are listed in the manual.

TW

20 blinks is not a valid error code AFAIK, 2-12 are listed in the manual.

TW

thats was my problem also..i saw the 2-12 blinks but nothing on 20.

i called a local service place today..he said "let me look it up" 20 blinks looks like digital tuner is bad.

i did a google search and found 20 blinks = firmware issue.

i have another 42px60u ..i guess i swap parts to find problem.

love the picture on the 42px60u but i bought 2 of these november 06. 1st one has already been repaired once and now this set goes....not looking good for a future panasonic purchase and was looking to upgrade to 1080...blahh

thanks for the help TW

i just wanted to thank you for your guidance through what was a very satisfying ordeal for me.... in the end.

i fixed my panny (th-42px60u)!! with some troubleshooting and good advice from techniwizard, i ordered a brand new SD board off of ebay for $40 shipped... and i am now up and running!:D

i was without my beloved HD for a total of 6 1/2 days. it makes me feel really great to know that i saved $1400 that i would have spent on a new TV if it wasn't for a little friendly shared knowledge on the world wide web. that's why i love the internet!!!

mind you, i have no real knowledge or experience with complicated plasmas, or electronics for that matter, i just enjoy opening things up to see how they work when they break. don't be afraid to do the same if you are facing enormous repair/replacement costs.

thanks again to Techniwizard.:cool:

Sometimes even I guess correctly LOL

Glad to hear it worked out OK.

Just a reality check, all repairs are not this easy but once in a while you run across a simple fix.

TW

looking for a service manual for a panasonic th-42px60u. is it available for download anywhere?


tia

http://www.pasctraining.panasonic.com/pass/elearn/files/Plasma/9th_Generation_Plasma_Display_TV.pdf

good luck with your problem. ;)

kewl

thanks!!

I need your opinion. I have a Toshiba 50HPX95 that is 2 1/2 years old. I believe that the panel was by Panasonic. Last month watching, a load crack and static sound happened, followed by a 6" wide horizontal bargray in color and then the picture folded down to the center and the TV went dead. I could only see the red blinking lite you guys are talking about, only it kept on blinking continuosly. I powered off several minutes and then hours and then overnite, but when power is applied, I hear the click of power on, some static sound as if the TV is warming up, but then nothing except the red blinking lite.
Service guy says the panel is shot, will replace for $3,600. Of course I will not, but can you confirm that the panel is the problem in my case??/

thats was my problem also..i saw the 2-12 blinks but nothing on 20.

i called a local service place today..he said "let me look it up" 20 blinks looks like digital tuner is bad.

i did a google search and found 20 blinks = firmware issue.

i have another 42px60u ..i guess i swap parts to find problem.

love the picture on the 42px60u but i bought 2 of these november 06. 1st one has already been repaired once and now this set goes....not looking good for a future panasonic purchase and was looking to upgrade to 1080...blahh

thanks for the help TW


i ordered the DT board off ebay and installed...problem solved..thanks all

My 42" plasma shuts off after about ten minutes and the led blinks red 4 times. I have to unplug it to get it to turn back on. Its out of warranty and I'm not sure its worth it to pay someone a $150.00 just to tell me whats wrong with it. Any help would be appreciated.

My 42" plasma shuts off after about ten minutes and the led blinks red 4 times.

You have to count the number of blinks that the led is "off". Assuming it is actually 4 "off" blinks, it appears it is indicative of a power problem.

You have to count the number of blinks that the led is "off". Assuming it is actually 4 "off" blinks, it appears it is indicative of a power problem.
Yes it blinks 4 times then pauses for about 4 seconds then repeats.

Is there anyway to test the power supply or should I just try swapping it out?
thanks again for any and all help.

Is there anyway to test the power supply or should I just try swapping it out?
thanks again for any and all help.

What number is printed on the PS board? TNPA-something ?

TW

Hello Techniwizard,
Can you please help me?
I have th-42pv80p(I think the US equivalent is 42px80u but I'm not shure) model with 7 times LED blink. I was trying which board was bad and after disconnecting SU or SD(and both) it was still shutting down with the same error. Then I disconnected SC and there was no shut down. The TV stays on but no picture of course. I will fill in with more details if needed.

Also can I get the link for the service manual as this one:
http://tsn.pasc.panasonic.com/viewing/NA/TH-42PX25U-P/SVC/PVAccel.html

Thanks in advance

Hi,

I found this forum due to my TV experiencing the problem thats been described in this thread and hoped that someone could confirm the problem.

The tv was working perfectly, but since my brother disconnected his laptop from the pc socket its played up and keeps doing the 7 flashes and pause then again 7 flashes.

Now when I've looked about this problem everyone that I've seen has said they replaced a chip on the power circuit board and its fixed the problem.

The trouble is I've no idea which chip I've got and I'm not sure what to do. All I can do at the moment is give details about the TV. If you need anymore info please let me know.

TNPA2841 printed on the board.
SN: YB3360264

I have had a look at SingalsUK as someone else bought from them, but all they've stated is the following:
C5HABZZ00123 is no longer available, The type number has now reverted back to a new STRF6668 B!

Cheers for any help.

Looks like I need to purchase part #TNPA2534AE (this is the part # on the current board installed in my plasma).

Is partstore.com still the best/cheapest place to order this part from?

Also, does anyone know if they are still offering a $150 DUD trade-in credit, if I return the old board to them?

I hate paying over $500 for a part, since I can get a new Panasonic plasma for around $775 with my EPP discount from work.


Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, I have learned a lot from it.


Shannon

My 14 months plasma just took a dive and started turning iteself off and started to blink 12 times (red light comes on 12 times). Panasonic is not taking responsibility for this, need help.

After i opened the back panel for the inspection, it seems every board is either have a push pin/plug connection (no soldering of wire required) and all boards are simply screwed to the back panel. So if i can pinpoint the problem and find the right replacement board with a help of readers, my TV can be fixed.

Followings are my findings…
1. As soon as i plug the power cord to the wall, 1st i hear a little click, that means the TV senses the power.

2. Then i press the power button in the front and i hear TV turns on and both fan are on. Meaning the power board is not the problem (at least I am hoping$$$). Well, once the power is on, in the back of the TV i see a little green led light that comes on on the board (could that be SC board?) located on the little left side from the center of the TV and then i also see a red led light comes on on the board that is located little below right in the middle (guessing that is the DT/DG board!!).

3. Then 3-5 seconds later i hear very little click and then everything turns off by iteself and then in the front red led flashes or red light comes on 12 times.

4. Some of the thread i read suggested the replacement of PA board or DG board, but before i order the parts i like to confirm.

Wondering if anyone might ran into this situation and care to help me to fix this plasma?

You didn't mention a model but I see from your other thread that it is a
TH42PX60U. The LED blinks in this chassis, 9G consumer, are counted as they go OFF. Later chassis count them as they go ON.

Codes and boards change from model year to model year so one model's defect is not necessarily another model's problem.

For the consumer 60U series, 11 blinks is a FAN ROTATION error. If one of the 3 fans develops erratic rotation it will shutdown and give the 11 blink error code.

Sometimes cleaning out the dust bunnies will help but usually they need to be replaced.

Carefully observe the fan rotation for erratic behavior, maybe swap fans from the other junk unit you found one at a time.

Good Luck

TW

I have a Panasonic TH42PX60u build date of January 2007. It has a blank screen (dim gray) with intermittent flashes (rainbow colors) of the source program. I tried unplugging and resetting the display twice, which worked for a day, but now the screen is all wonky again. My son was playing his PS3 on it when the screen went blank. I switched back to our DirecTV HD box, moved the cable from HDMI 1 to 2 and tried the OTA signal, but nothing helps. The TV powers on and the sound is fine. The red power indicator light is constantly lit and does not flash. Any ideas how I might try to troubleshoot this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

my 42PZ700 died yestoday. I've had it for 3 weeks.

I have to help to repair a Panasonic TH42PA20

It blinks 7 times after a long time.
Temperature increased seems reduce this time.
Should be IC551, I will have the STRF6668M soon.

I hope this is the reason.

Serial number is YS3551496, as you can see, old and after sept 2003, then I don't undertand for STRF6668B unless the board have been exchanged....
TPNA2841 have a black ink stamp EZ3920A

Regards

Alain

I read again TW comments:
"A very, very few post-Sept. production models used a B suffix IC 551 with a small paint dot in the upper left corner, my guess signifying hand selection. Change this to the M suffix if suspected. "
It is 2 dots , green light in molded small holes...
(I can't link the picture)
The IC is custom part from Sanken but STRF6668B should be in the parts list of JVC,TOSHIBA,LG,HITACHI,GRUNDIG.

Alain

I have exchanged IC551 on TPNA2841 PSU by C5HABZZ00123.
Put the rear cover and 3 hours later still ok @ ambiant temp around 21 °C.
I don't know exactly the temp case of the IC but estimated around 55°c without the rear cover.

Alain

Good to hear that you have fixed it.

3 or 4 days at 3 to 5 hours power on without shut down.
The TV is returned to home last week.
Thank you for this long post and TW advice.
I hope this will help some other similar TV failures.

Alain

I finally decided to bite the bullet and purchase an SC board (TNPA2534AE). Total costs was about $580 ($520 + tax and shipping) from ... I installed it last night and it works. I would like to point out 3 things:

Same here. I joined the 2-blink club 2 weeks ago. Downloaded the service manual, opened the panel, did a little troubleshooting and it all pointed to the "SC" board TPNA2867.

This board was about $500 from Panasonic but I found one for $180 from "discount-merchant" (this site won't let me post the site's u r l, but you can figure it out). Installed it, followed the "PCB Replacement Quick Adjust" procedures in the manual (fine tuning a few voltages on the PCBs) and now my plasma is in service again like new.

My plasma is TH-42PWD6-UY manufactured Feb 2004, purchased Mar 2004. It came from the factory with the upgraded power supply. The original "SC" board was TPNA-2867-AE, EZ-4116D. The replacement is TPNA-2867-AK, EZ-4714G.

I sent the failed board to Panasonic requesting the core/DUD fee; don't know how they will respond but I figured it didn't hurt to try.

THANKS everyone, great resource here - saved me having to buy a new screen (since labor + parts to fix would have been almost as expensive as a new screen).

Great that some folks are able to repair their units, even though it puts me out of work LOL.

No sweat, although the Pro models have been pretty reliable, there are quite a few out there that with even just occassional failures there is still an awful lot of work. I see it increasing as the overall sales volume keeps rising.

TW

(this site won't let me post the site's u r l, but you can figure it out).

You must have writen 3 POST before to be able to write a link.
(security matter)

now I am allowed to write:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/alain.mionnet/entvplasma.htm

Some informations on TH42pa20 and TH42px600e.

The price of the SC board looks high. The main trouble is that recently
here in france you can buy a new 42" plasma Samsung @ 649 euro.....

But you are lucky in USA to be able to buy IC551 for relative low cost directly to Pana.

Alain

Hi All -

Thank you to all that have contributed over the years to this thread, especially Techniwizard. My TH42PWD6 started with the 6 to 7 blinking lights and whistling last week :(

My unit is Sept. 2003 and I just finished taking it apart to check the IC551 and it appears I have the faulty chip. Mine ends in suffix B (F6668B). I will be ordering the new part C5HABZZ00123 and taking the board to a local TV repair shop to have it replaced. I hope it does the trick because I was not ready to spend the cash on a new plasma just yet.

It seems as if everyone with this issue has experienced the problem within the first year however mine has lasted 6 years. I checked the CAT Menu and my unit has been powered on 3619 times with 8264 hours so far so not really sure how it lasted this long.

Again many thanks to the community.

On a side note does anyone here know where I can find a pedestal stand for my model. I have it wall mounted and eventually want to move it to my room. If anyone has one for sale please let me know or maybe even a part # if Panasonic still has any?? :)

Funs,

Thanks for the kind words.

Tell the TV Shop to be sure and solder on both sides of the board. Some of the pins need solder on both sides.

Any commercial stand will fit, even the latest model TY-ST08K.
TY-ST05K, TY-ST07K, and TY-ST42PA20 will work. The PA20 is silver color, the others are black.

Most of the consumer stands will NOT fit sorry to say.

TW

Thanks TW. My plasma is charcoal in color not black. Will those stands match and do you also happen to know the part # for speakers that will fit this model.

By black I mean the charcoal grey as opposed to the consumer silver color.

The newer style speakers TY-SP42P8WK will also fit but have a chamfered edge to match the series 8 and later Plasmas. It should not be too much of a problem.

The original model TY-SP42P5WK is what was sold with your series 6.

TW

Funs,

see
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/mionnet/img/tnpa2841_01.jpg
selected B model with green dots...
more than 5 years later similar failure on TH42pa20.(see above)

other similar trouble here:
http://stafford.typepad.com/the_next_america/2004/02/panasonic_plasm.html

I hope have the explanation betwen B and M on STR F6668.

The IC should rise in security by peak overcurrent detection.

Alain

Thanks Alain - looks like we had the same faulty part.

:confused:
Hi TW - Is it strange that I have not had any shut down issues in the last 4 days after removing the rear panel and determing whether or not I had the bad transistor? I have gone ahead and ordered the correct part, however wanted to ask you if I should go ahead and have it replaced or wait until my unit starts acting up again?

I also wanted to confirm that speakers TY-SP42P8WK and pedestal stand TY-ST08K will fit my model TH42PWD6 because I found a really good deal online for both and the seller was unsure.

Many thanks as always..

:confused:
Hi TW - Is it strange that I have not had any shut down issues in the last 4 days after removing the rear panel and determing whether or not I had the bad transistor? I have gone ahead and ordered the correct part, however wanted to ask you if I should go ahead and have it replaced or wait until my unit starts acting up again?

I also wanted to confirm that speakers TY-SP42P8WK and pedestal stand TY-ST08K will fit my model TH42PWD6 because I found a really good deal online for both and the seller was unsure.

Many thanks as always..

It is running cooler with the back off which is why IC 551 is not acting up.

The stand and speakers will fit your Plasma. Be sure that the speakers include the brackets and screws. All commercial stands use the same pole type and center-to-center distance. The speakers will have a chamfered edge to match the series 8 Plasma but will otherwise match your unit.

TW

Funs,

Without cover you may have 0,5 degre temp less on IC551 and then it doesn't trig in shut-down.(see also ambiant temp)
It was near same for me.

I think better to change the IC now.

Or install a small fan but it should be several parameters to take in account to trig.

About Sanken and data sheet...
Wait and see.

AM

I ran into the shutdown issue on my PA20 after 5 years, and with info from this thread was able to get the IC and replace. Had to struggle for a few days to do this on my own. But one thought that came to me after I had fixed the new IC was that the thermal compound that is between the IC and the heat sink had dried (and I used some fresh compound). Then I was wondering that if I had simply applied the new thermal compound , I would not have had to replace the IC in the fist place, well it was too late now.

So someone with issues popping up after a few years could try to reapply the compound first before proceeding to replace the IC.

Looks like I have become a member of the "two blink" club. I have a Panasonic TH-42PWD5. It has been a great set, but about a week ago, it started to do the two blinks. I had a tech visit and he said that it was the SC board. He told me that this is a $450 part and that it would be $657 to repair.

Not sure that it is worth it for a 6yr old component only EDTV. But I'd sure hate to spend big $$$ with the economy the way it is.

Looks like I have become a member of the "two blink" club. I have a Panasonic TH-42PWD5. It has been a great set, but about a week ago, it started to do the two blinks. I had a tech visit and he said that it was the SC board. He told me that this is a $450 part and that it would be $657 to repair.

Not sure that it is worth it for a 6yr old component only EDTV. But I'd sure hate to spend big $$$ with the economy the way it is.

Try to isolate by alternately pulling the SU and SD boards away from the SC board. Leave the panel ribbons connected.
Power up and look for a good upper or lower half-screen. If so, the pulled board is the baddie. If still NG, it probably is the SC.
These are located on the left side as viewed from the rear.

T Wiz

I almost hate to post this but...my Panasonic TH-42PA20 has been flawless since I purchased it in July 2003. I'm probably on borrowed time now. I just need it to last a few more weeks. Hoping to replace with a 42" G-10 very soon. :)

Try to isolate by alternately pulling the SU and SD boards away from the SC board. Leave the panel ribbons connected.
Power up and look for a good upper or lower half-screen. If so, the pulled board is the baddie. If still NG, it probably is the SC.
These are located on the left side as viewed from the rear.

T Wiz

Well, I tried it out. I first pulled the upper board and left the ribbon cables on the side attached. I plugged in the set and pressed the power button. I still had the two blinks.

I then removed the power cord and re-inserted the SU card. I SD card was then removed from the SC card and the set was powered up. Again I had the two blinks. I then reinstalled the SD card and put the back panel back on.

I do have one question. How difficult is it to remove the silver section that is obscuring the lower right screw for the SC board? It looks like a lot of screws. See attached pic.

Well, I tried it out. I first pulled the upper board and left the ribbon cables on the side attached. I plugged in the set and pressed the power button. I still had the two blinks.

I then removed the power cord and re-inserted the SU card. I SD card was then removed from the SC card and the set was powered up. Again I had the two blinks. I then reinstalled the SD card and put the back panel back on.

I do have one question. How difficult is it to remove the silver section that is obscuring the lower right screw for the SC board? It looks like a lot of screws. See attached pic.

You can remove all of the screws holding the thin metal shield, then remove the 4-5 screws holding the "tin can", (one is a ground wire screw) pull down to disengage the can.

The unit will operate with the can disconnected - no pictures, but the menus will stll work.

TW

Hi TW -

I was finally able to get the new transistor soldered on. I finished putting everything back together this evening and when I powered on the unit, I found a solid line on the left side of the screen about 6-8 inches from the bezel. I'm hoping it's nothing serious. I have not taken it back apart yet to inspect the board and make sure everything is secure, however I wanted to post a quick note and picture to see if it's something you might be able to identify. It's not the best pic but hopefully the line is visible..

thanks,
funs

Well,

Usually this kind of line is either a bad C board or (gulp) bad panel.
But these models were still driven dual-scan, that is from the top and bottom, so bad lines would only go half way up or down and stop in the middle.

A full width line could be a D board ribbon not connected fully or a speck of dust or even the mount bolts being too tight pressing in on the back panel and the D boards underneath.

You can try taking the back off again, powering up and gently tapping the D board with the plastic handle of a screwdriver looking for a bad solder joint.
If you find one, try to flex the board to keep it in contact because trying to solder it will surely mess it up unless you have special surface mount soldering gear.

T Wiz

TW- -

As always, thanks for your input. I will give it a go tonight. I'm not sure where the D board is located exactly. Is there a online service manual with schematics and diagrams for the internal boards that might help? I do recall seeing the ribbons you mentioned around the edges of the back panel and will check those closely.

regards,
funs

The D board is in the middle, left of center, and will have two ribbons going up and two going down. Be careful of the panel ribbons across the top and bottom edges, they are static sensitive and will "pop" the CMOS drivers if hit with static. You probably don't need to touch them anyway.

TW

:rolleyes:

so I removed the back panel and sat there staring at the boards on each side. Problem is I can't figure out which is the D board. Is it left of center when looking with the back panel off :confused:

Good News. I connected the unit without the panel and no more vertical line, so there has to be something loose or maybe the panel is pressing too tight against the board. I reattached the back panel, gently screwing the mount bolts around the outer edge and the vertical line is back :(

I attached two pics hoping you might be able to tell me which board I should be looking at since I don't see two ribbons going up and two going down.. Thanks for all your help TW!

:rolleyes:

so I removed the back panel and sat there staring at the boards on each side. Problem is I can't figure out which is the D board. Is it left of center when looking with the back panel off :confused:

Good News. I connected the unit without the panel and no more vertical line, so there has to be something loose or maybe the panel is pressing too tight against the board. I reattached the back panel, gently screwing the mount bolts around the outer edge and the vertical line is back :(

I attached two pics hoping you might be able to tell me which board I should be looking at since I don't see two ribbons going up and two going down.. Thanks for all your help TW!

My mistake, you have a TH42PWD6UY not a TH42PHD6UY. The PWD6 has only 2 ribbons that are behind the input card cage.
You would need to remove the card cage and the AC input board to inspect the C board ribbons.

Or else take the back off again and press around the D board - which is the board barely visible toward the top of your second picture.

TW

NP, I actually have a TH42PWD6 and just removed the panel again. Looking at the D board, it has 3 ribbons that go under, 2 of which appear to attach to the C board. When you say press around the D board am I looking for something that is loose or do I need to go ahead and remove the D board all together and inspect under?

thanks,
funs

Nope, you pressing lightly while watching the screen to see if you cn make the line come and go. If you find a sensitive spot, try to wedge alittle cardboard underneath to give outward pressure.

I suspect the back was pressing against the card cage and hence the botom of the D board.

:) Thanks TW. Left the panel off and connected the unit. No Line...started pressing firmly on the D board and lightly on the ribbons and still No line. I'm going to try and reattach the back panel again and keep my fingers crossed! Oh when you say card cage are you referring to the D board or is this something else I should be looking at? Thanks, Funs

where the input boards are

TW -

I attached the back panel and started to apply some pressure in different areas. No change around the bottom left where the D board is located, so I moved around the edges and then I started to lightly tap. When I hit the top middle of the back panel. No more line :) I'm not sure where the problem is exactly but it's obvious the rear panel is coming in contact with something, just wish I knew what it was...

Probably best to leave well enough alone. I will monitor over the next few days for the line and shutdown problem and hope for the best.

I'm truly grateful for all your advice and support over the past couple weeks. AVS is a great resource and for you to be active and helping members in a thread that dates back 6 years is very considerate.

No more shutdown issue, however the line is back. It seems to come and go. Not sure what else to do, so more than likely will be upgrading to a new 12g Plasma soon.. :(

I sent the failed board to Panasonic requesting the core/DUD fee; don't know how they will respond but I figured it didn't hurt to try.

Panasonic returned the bad SC board to me with no core/dud fee and no letter of explanation. They opened the box, read my letter, and sent the board back.

It's a good screen and I'll continue using it until it fails again. But when that happens, based on this experience - premature failure with zero factory support from Panasonic - my next one will likely be Pioneer or some other competitor. If I weren't lucky enough to have been able to fix this myself, the cost of repair would have made it necessary to buy a new screen. It is unacceptable to have no factory support when something with a 50,000+ hour half-life dies in less than 2,000 hours.

Panasonic returned the bad SC board to me with no core/dud fee and no letter of explanation. They opened the box, read my letter, and sent the board back.

It's a good screen and I'll continue using it until it fails again. But when that happens, based on this experience - premature failure with zero factory support from Panasonic - my next one will likely be Pioneer or some other competitor. If I weren't lucky enough to have been able to fix this myself, the cost of repair would have made it necessary to buy a new screen. It is unacceptable to have no factory support when something with a 50,000+ hour half-life dies in less than 2,000 hours.

Core carges are only returned if paid initially to Panasonic parts or an authorized dealer and you have a receipt stating so.

From the sounds of your original post, it looks like 1.) You did not pay any core charge and 2.) The source was not an authorized dealer.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"...This board was about $500 from Panasonic but I found one for $180 from "discount-merchant" (this site won't let me post the site's u r l, but you can figure it out). Installed it, followed the "PCB Replacement Quick Adjust" procedures in the manual (fine tuning a few voltages on the PCBs) and now my plasma is in service again like new.

My plasma is TH-42PWD6-UY manufactured Feb 2004, purchased Mar 2004. It came from the factory with the upgraded power supply. The original "SC" board was TPNA-2867-AE, EZ-4116D. The replacement is TPNA-2867-AK, EZ-4714G.

I sent the failed board to Panasonic requesting the core/DUD fee; don't know how they will respond but I figured it didn't hurt to try...."
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Boards that come from Panasonic have return forms and shipping labels included as part of the exchange procedure. If your cost was $180 there is no way you would get a refunded core charge of $150. More likely this board came from a wreck purchased on EBay and the boards salvaged from that.

T Wiz

I have a TH-42PA20 which originally had the "7-blink" problem. I read through this entire post and discovered the IC551 was indeed overheating.

I first refitted the IC551 to its heatsink with new thermal paste - the result was:

1. Diagnostic LEDs on the SS and SC boards now all lit up!
2. Loud buzzing noise from the P panel (probably from the transformer closest to the IC551);
3. IC551 still getting very hot;
4. Sound but no picture.

I replaced the IC551 with an new (upgraded) component and am now left with 7 blinks again but none of the 4 conditions listed above! The SS board diagnostic LED lights for 1-2 seconds then the unit returns to standby.

I did not do any of the voltage checks recommended after PCB replacement - could these be the problem? Will I get correct readings if the unit switches to standby so quickly?

Appreciate all those who have contributed to this thread - hope you can help me too!

I have a TH-42PA20 which originally had the "7-blink" problem. I read through this entire post and discovered the IC551 was indeed overheating.

I first refitted the IC551 to its heatsink with new thermal paste - the result was:

1. Diagnostic LEDs on the SS and SC boards now all lit up!
2. Loud buzzing noise from the P panel (probably from the transformer closest to the IC551);
3. IC551 still getting very hot;
4. Sound but no picture.

I replaced the IC551 with an new (upgraded) component and am now left with 7 blinks again but none of the 4 conditions listed above! The SS board diagnostic LED lights for 1-2 seconds then the unit returns to standby.

I did not do any of the voltage checks recommended after PCB replacement - could these be the problem? Will I get correct readings if the unit switches to standby so quickly?

Appreciate all those who have contributed to this thread - hope you can help me too!

Be sure to solder on both sides of the IC, 1 or 2 leads need connection on both the conductor and component sides of the PCB.

Unfortunately, very loud buzzing usually means a cracked plasma display panel which would be uneconomical to replace.

T Wiz

Hi Guys,

Looks like I'm joining the shut down club. I'm in the UK and I bought my Panasonic TH-42PW6 in October 2003. Recently it has started to play up after about 1-2 hours of viewing time. It does the high pitched whine and the screen fades to black. It goes into blink mode. 4 "off" blinks (5 "on" blinks) then a continuous on for about 4 seconds and it then repeats the cycle. I have to switch the unit off and wait for about 10 mins before it will start up again.

Obviously it is way out of its one year warranty, but it would be good to minimise the cost damage. After paying £4000 initially I want to get a few more years of viewing. Especially as I now have no job:(

If I could find the blink code and tell the repair man what part to order then it'll save £'s and I'll have my tv back quicker.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys,

Looks like I'm joining the shut down club. I'm in the UK and I bought my Panasonic TH-42PW6 in October 2003. Recently it has started to play up after about 1-2 hours of viewing time. It does the high pitched whine and the screen fades to black. It goes into blink mode. 4 "off" blinks (5 "on" blinks) then a continuous on for about 4 seconds and it then repeats the cycle. I have to switch the unit off and wait for about 10 mins before it will start up again.

Obviously it is way out of its one year warranty, but it would be good to minimise the cost damage. After paying £4000 initially I want to get a few more years of viewing. Especially as I now have no job:(

If I could find the blink code and tell the repair man what part to order then it'll save £'s and I'll have my tv back quicker.

Thanks in advance.

This sounds like the classic shutdown symptom that began this thread.
Look through the posts here for info on replacing IC-551 on the power supply board.
At first you could try adding more thermal paste between the IC and heatsink and if that does not work, change IC-551 to the newer type. You need to read back for more details.

TW

Be sure to solder on both sides of the IC, 1 or 2 leads need connection on both the conductor and component sides of the PCB.

Unfortunately, very loud buzzing usually means a cracked plasma display panel which would be uneconomical to replace.

T Wiz

Absolutely spot-on with your first point - I had to remove the heatsink to get proper access, but after soldering the "top" connections, everything came alive - all diagnostic LEDs displaying OK.

However, I think you are correct on your second point as well...

I carefully inspected the screen and can find no trace of a crack - I'm hoping you might have an equally insightful alternative explanation for the loud buzzing.

Otherwise I have a case full of working parts for someone else trying to fix a TH-42PA20!!

Thanks again.

Yes, thank you, I spent most of the day working my way through the posts. 30 pages...phew.
I've booked myself in with the local Panasonic repair shop. Tonight, however it's just gone off after only half an hour and it's doing 7 flashes on (6 off)!! I also think it coincided with me fast forwarding on the Sky+ box......Is this a different problem?

curly:confused:

Yes, thank you, I spent most of the day working my way through the posts. 30 pages...phew.
I've booked myself in with the local Panasonic repair shop. Tonight, however it's just gone off after only half an hour and it's doing 7 flashes on (6 off)!! I also think it coincided with me fast forwarding on the Sky+ box......Is this a different problem?

curly:confused:

This symptom was always sensitive to channel changing, etc. same problem.

Absolutely spot-on with your first point - I had to remove the heatsink to get proper access, but after soldering the "top" connections, everything came alive - all diagnostic LEDs displaying OK.

However, I think you are correct on your second point as well...

I carefully inspected the screen and can find no trace of a crack - I'm hoping you might have an equally insightful alternative explanation for the loud buzzing.

Otherwise I have a case full of working parts for someone else trying to fix a TH-42PA20!!

Thanks again.

The only other thing to check is for physical damage, burnt traces, cracked components in the center area of the SC board where the separation is between the SU and SD boards. Defects here will also (very rarely) cause a buzz.

Our Th42pa20 had the two blink shutdown after my wife put a baby blanket over it while it was on... Using info from Techniwizard posts, narrowed it to the SC card. (Disconnected SU & SD individually & no half-picture, so probably SC). I was able to find a broken panel TH42PA20 locally & replaced the board. Working great now!! Thanks Techniwizard!!
One worry I had while doing this was the mention that sometimes the SU or SD cards can take out SC... For others in the same position, how much of a risk is it just to replace SC with the above symptoms? I didn't want to try removing the ribbon cables from the other cards as they looked difficult to replace... Is there a special tool that allows the ribbon cables to be easily reinserted? Again thanks much for saving a 42" great tv from recycling....

I just joined the 2 blinker club.

TH-42PW5 (actually, TH-42PW5UZ) from 2002. Turned it on, heard a pop, and no picture. Now powering off and back on, gets a green power LED, that changes to red, and then the dreaded 2-blink sequence.

Got the service manual, and the flow chard says to check the LEDs on the SS board. When I power the unit on, the upper LED lights, then a few seconds later the lower LED lights, the relay clicks immediately after that, and both LEDs on the SS board go out.

So I'm guessing that the SS board needs to be replaced.

Is there anything else to check? Can I tell if anything else is bad before I go to the expense of ordering a replacement SS board?

I just joined the 2 blinker club.

TH-42PW5 (actually, TH-42PW5UZ) from 2002. Turned it on, heard a pop, and no picture. Now powering off and back on, gets a green power LED, that changes to red, and then the dreaded 2-blink sequence.

Got the service manual, and the flow chard says to check the LEDs on the SS board. When I power the unit on, the upper LED lights, then a few seconds later the lower LED lights, the relay clicks immediately after that, and both LEDs on the SS board go out.

So I'm guessing that the SS board needs to be replaced.

Is there anything else to check? Can I tell if anything else is bad before I go to the expense of ordering a replacement SS board?

See previous post on SU/SD/SC troubleshooting procedure. Suspect one of these 3, not the SS in this case.

TW

See previous post on SU/SD/SC troubleshooting procedure. Suspect one of these 3, not the SS in this case.

Thank you very much. I did the SU/SD/SC troubleshooting procedure. I got the same result. 2-blinker and the LEDs on the SS board did the same dance no matter which board (SD, SU, or both) were unplugged from the SC board.

The LED on the SC board never gets any activity, and no pixels on the screen ever show any activity at all, even briefly, under any conditions or boards disconnected.

BTW, I have the SD PCB layout, not the HD (i.e. C1 and C2 are at the bottom, and no C3 or C4 boards).

The "No picture" flowchart indicates that if no LED on the SC board, the SC board is suspect. But the specific troubleshooting flowchart for the "Power LED blinks twice" asks about the SS LEDs first, before the SC board LEDs. What is unclear is when the ask "Are the SS board LEDs let" do them mean constantly, after the power LED goes to blinking twice, or do they mean if the SS LEDs come on at all?

The SS LEDs will go off when it goes into shutdown.
Sounds like a bad SC board and possibly one or both the SU/SD. no real way to tell until the SC is replaced.

TW

Thank you.

Unfortunately, it seems as everyone is out of stock on the SC board (TNPA2534), so it may be a while before I can replace it.

Thank you.

Unfortunately, it seems as everyone is out of stock on the SC board (TNPA2534), so it may be a while before I can replace it.

Check your PMs.

TW

TW ... thanks for helping,

it is 12 blinks or actually 12 times it goes off, i already cleaned up the fan, but same result, repairman near by who also own a store [who is also more concern about selling his sony to me] telling me the power supply is bad.

i search for the 12 blinks and not much help, i also noted that you are in nj as well and wondering if possible for you to check my tv.

thanks in advance

You didn't mention a model but I see from your other thread that it is a
TH42PX60U. The LED blinks in this chassis, 9G consumer, are counted as they go OFF. Later chassis count them as they go ON.

Codes and boards change from model year to model year so one model's defect is not necessarily another model's problem.

For the consumer 60U series, 11 blinks is a FAN ROTATION error. If one of the 3 fans develops erratic rotation it will shutdown and give the 11 blink error code.

Sometimes cleaning out the dust bunnies will help but usually they need to be replaced.

Carefully observe the fan rotation for erratic behavior, maybe swap fans from the other junk unit you found one at a time.

Good Luck

TW

TW ... thanks for helping,

it is 12 blinks or actually 12 times it goes off, i already cleaned up the fan, but same result, repairman near by who also own a store [who is also more concern about selling his sony to me] telling me the power supply is bad.

i search for the 12 blinks and not much help, i also noted that you are in nj as well and wondering if possible for you to check my tv.

thanks in advanceThanks for the compliment, but I service only the Pro/Industrial models.

12 Blinks is a sound error on the PA board. Order # is TXNPA1BJTUJ and the stamp on the board will be TNPA3761. The same board is used in TH-37PX60U.

Here's a cheap good board on EBAY:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Panasonic-TH-37px60u-plasma-interface-board-TNPA3761_W0QQitemZ270363633401QQcmdZViewItem

thanks TW

... i am sure this is not a last Question and thanks i am sending you. I am also confuse about counting blinks ... some says that the time the red light goes off and not on. When i turn the TV by plugging in, it seem to be powering on and red light comes on, then in 2 seconds i hear a little click and light goes off, counting to 13 times and that last 13 times it stays off for couple of seconds and then light comes on and now it goes off 12 times and long pose then 12 times again. What does that mean?

also found the power switch when i used to press to turn the tv on, made clicking sound just the way it should, but now when i press that, it does not make that sound, i have to use remote to turn on and then have to unplug when it goes to the blinking mode

hope i am making sense, i am not good at explaining things

Here's a cheap good board on EBAY:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Panasonic-TH-37px60u-plasma-interface-board-TNPA3761_W0QQitemZ270363633401QQcmdZViewItem

Hello,

Bought this Panny plasma in early 2008 new for a bargain at a German online outlet (which was closing down). Unfortunately it died on me yesterday. Having now relocated in France, I get the feeling that this will be a fight with Panasonic to get the unit serviced, so I am thinking that if it is just a board to swap, I can do it myself.

I have scoured the net for similar issues, and found this board to be most active about faulty screens.

I have the left half of the screen split in two white and black vertical rectangles (with a changing yellow vertical line in the black portion). The right side of the screen is however just fine and keeps functionning as normal.

I was wondering if TW could help me diagnose and fix that... If you happen to have a service manual, I would also take it.

TIA,

Stephane

Hello,

Bought this Panny plasma in early 2008 new for a bargain at a German online outlet (which was closing down). Unfortunately it died on me yesterday. Having now relocated in France, I get the feeling that this will be a fight with Panasonic to get the unit serviced, so I am thinking that if it is just a board to swap, I can do it myself.

I have scoured the net for similar issues, and found this board to be most active about faulty screens.

I have the left half of the screen split in two white and black vertical rectangles (with a changing yellow vertical line in the black portion). The right side of the screen is however just fine and keeps functionning as normal.

I was wondering if TW could help me diagnose and fix that... If you happen to have a service manual, I would also take it.

TIA,

Stephane

These are consumer models so I am fairly unfamiliar with them. My guess would be the D board as that deals with left and right blocks. It could also be the C board, a small strip board that runs across the bottom of each half conveniently located under tons of other boards.

First off, check the ribbons to the suspect 1/2 screen. Remove, clean with light isopropyl alcohol (no strong cleaners !) and carefully replace. They must be square and fully inserted before latching the connectors.

Sorry, I do not have a manual for this model.

TW

Thanks for the reply.

BTW, I have found the user manual for TH-42PV60E Email me for the URL.

One more question... Does a D-Board exchange warrants for pot adjustments on the Plasma afterwards, or this is just a swap?

> The manual states, for a D-Board swap:

"Whiteblance, Pedestal andSubbrightnessfor NTSC, PAL, HD, PCand625i signals "

Ok I have the Panasonic TC X1 and wonder is the shut off problem only model specific? Yesterday I went into another room the TV was on,I came back and it was off. I think this is the second time it has happen. I check all timers non where set and I'm a DTV subscriber so no way did that affected the TV plus blue light and audio was on . Any idea of what cause this or is it something I might have done. I vaguely remember something about the set will shut off if inactive for ??? time but there was a signal coming from my DTV box..

My TH-42PA20 started shutting down, and doing the 7-blink thing too. I've read thru all this thread, and several others, and think I understand the issue/solution. Can someone confirm?

* IC is overheating; need to replace
* Order part C5HABZZ00123 online (.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartsListChoice.asp) for $24.51
* Replace part once it arrives; should be good and issue should be gone

Is that really all there is to it? Has anyone taken pictures of the repair to help a non-tv repairperson? :)

Thanks
A

Yes, it's in this thread or the archived thread of the same name.

Quick and dirty solution, remove the screw holding IC 551 to the heatsink - power supply board, lower right, may need a right angle Phillips screwdriver.

Pull the IC slightly away from the heatsink, Glob some extra white thermal paste from Rat Shack between the IC and the heatsink, replace the screw.

50-50 it may fix it, if not you need the paste for the new IC anyway.

T Wiz

I have the TH-37PX60U. When you plug the power cord in the LED lights 10 times. It will not power on or anything. I have looked thoroughly online and I think I am correct when I say it could be 1 of 3 components. My plan was to try to figure out those 3 componets and replace them cheapest to most expensive to try to get it working.

I was wondering if some kind soul "in the know" could tell me what parts those 3 are. I have only been able to find a very limited discription of the 10 blink code and certainly not enough info to try to order the parts.

Secondly, does this sound like the right approach or does someone know more specifically the problem I haven't been able to find a service manual for this model. Any help that anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for any help!

So, I tried additional paste with the original IC part...no luck. 7 blinks and auto-shutoff, especially when changing channels.

Gave in and tried to replace the chip. Must have shorted something when soldering, as now the tv doesn't even turn on. Clicks a few times, shuts off, and the 7 blinks return.

Can a person just order the complete power-supply board? I am okay with plugging in cables, but obviously soldering isn't my forte. :) I don't want to spend a lot given the cost of a new replacement tv. Sigh.

Thanks all
A

Hello,

I am new to AVSF and found this thread via search. I have a Panasonic TH-42PA20 and over the last few months have had it intermittently shut off. Unplugging the power will reset it after a few minutes, but it is becoming more frequent.

I just counted the red light flashes and I get 11 blinks "on" followed by 3 seconds "off".

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your help.

So, I tried additional paste with the original IC part...no luck. 7 blinks and auto-shutoff, especially when changing channels.

Gave in and tried to replace the chip. Must have shorted something when soldering, as now the tv doesn't even turn on. Clicks a few times, shuts off, and the 7 blinks return.

Can a person just order the complete power-supply board? I am okay with plugging in cables, but obviously soldering isn't my forte. :) I don't want to spend a lot given the cost of a new replacement tv. Sigh.

Thanks all
A

Common problem. Go back and resolder on BOTH sides of he board. There are a couple of contacts that need to be made on the IC side of the board as well as on the solder side.

TW

I was able to find the repair manual and I found a replacement PA and H board. After installing 1 at a time and testing after I still have 10 blinks.

Could someone please help me figure out what the next course of action should be..... or is it a lost cause? Any help would be very much appreciated.

Hi,

My TH-42PA20 just started the shutdown trick again. Power on and the red led flashes 7 times while making a clicking noise. Unplugging and doing a reset doesnt help. Based on this thread, I'm pretty sure the power supply is gone.

This is the second time and I already had the PS replaced once (in 2004) for about $600. It doesnt seem like its worth it to fix...at this point its 6 years old and I dont think it makes sense to repair it (I can get a comparable or better one for $600).

Any suggestions on what to do with it? Seems a shame to toss it in a dumpster...Is there a market for the boards/panel/whole unit?

Hi,

My TH-42PA20 just started the shutdown trick again. Power on and the red led flashes 7 times while making a clicking noise. Unplugging and doing a reset doesnt help. Based on this thread, I'm pretty sure the power supply is gone.

This is the second time and I already had the PS replaced once (in 2004) for about $600. It doesnt seem like its worth it to fix...at this point its 6 years old and I dont think it makes sense to repair it (I can get a comparable or better one for $600).

Any suggestions on what to do with it? Seems a shame to toss it in a dumpster...Is there a market for the boards/panel/whole unit?

Read further back in the thread. If your IC551 on the power supply has a B suffix, change it to the newer version with the M suffix and you should be good to go.

Part # and full procedures are back in the thread.

TW

I am new here and seeking help. My 42in plasma TV, Panasonic TH-42px25 , was working last night when I turned it off. This morning I attempted to turn it on and I heard the click of the power coming on then the screen flickered and I heard another click and the screen went dark and the power light (red) on the front panel started flashing on and off (12 blinks). I tried disconnecting the power cord and reconnecting then turning it on again and got the same response. Has anyone had a similar problem and what was the solution?

Hi, I'm looking for a service manual for the Panasonic TH-42PZ77U

Thanks!

hi im having a problem with my th 50pz77u i got a 12 red light which indicated a sos with my h board. i replace the h board and im still having the same problem can someone please help me ?

Hi everybody,

First i want to say hello,because it is my first post here !! :)

It seem that i'm not alone with this problem:mad:

But until now i never see another Th37pv500 having this annoying problem.

The symptom are: suddenly the panel shut down an the led is blinking 4 times with a little pause an again 4 times, pause,…etc
Sometime it doesn't do smetime it happen very soon sometime not…

I already check with another "cordon" (sorry for my poor English)
Also with another wall socket,
I plug it into an UPS that give me good voltage
Iunplug an reset the beast by pressing 10 sec
All those things give a result :(

I also bring the panel to a reparation center but they never could reproduce the shut down during two weeks :confused::confused:

So know i'm totally lost please if anyone can help me :eek:
Thanks

I have a Panasonic Plasma Model TH-42PE70 that just won't power on since yesterday. everyhing was fine and then it whent blank. try to turn on, but it will not even atempt to turn on. no lights blink or nothing. i opened up, but i can not see any burn or damaged capasators or resistors or anyghing. does anyone else had this problem? what could it be? the tv was purchased on November 2007 and is out of warranty.

I am very new to this site but really think you guys have alot of info. I have a Panasonic TH-42PD50U and it is giving the 2 blinks. I have done the SD and SU test with no luck. I even tried to disconnect the SC board to see if the blinks went away with no luck also.

The wierd thing about my situation is that when I push the power button on the front of the set I do not get any LED's lighting up on the SC or SS boards. I feel like this would be an issue with the low voltage side of the power supply. But at the same time I have voltage to the power switch to turn the set on. Has any one ever experienced this or have knowledge of the issue?

Also I did purchase a service manual for this model and it has explanations for 1 blink which are 12v sos and 3.3 volt sos but then skips to an explanation for 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 and 12.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you:)

Hi - I feel like rumplestiltskin, my July 2003 37PA20 has been sleeping for many years on a dusty shelf. I got it (slightly) used from a company shut down, and we've been using it for about 18 months. It started shutting down a couple of weeks ago, and progressively became unuseable, which, after reading this forum, now sounds familiar. When I checked, it had 1981 hours on it. I called Panasonic and got the name of a local service company, called them and got the name PacParts, a components distributor in Portland (2114 SE 9th, (800) 338-6342). I picked up a new IC551 (C5HABZZ00123, or STR F6668M) there this morning, changed it after lunch, and am back on line this afternoon (now 2 hours and running), all thanks to the great info posted here, and special thanks to TW for his contributions. Happy Holidays all! Cheers, D.

Hi - I feel like rumplestiltskin, my July 2003 37PA20 has been sleeping for many years on a dusty shelf. I got it (slightly) used from a company shut down, and we've been using it for about 18 months. It started shutting down a couple of weeks ago, and progressively became unuseable, which, after reading this forum, now sounds familiar. When I checked, it had 1981 hours on it. I called Panasonic and got the name of a local service company, called them and got the name PacParts, a components distributor in Portland (2114 SE 9th, (800) 338-6342). I picked up a new IC551 (C5HABZZ00123, or STR F6668M) there this morning, changed it after lunch, and am back on line this afternoon (now 2 hours and running), all thanks to the great info posted here, and special thanks to TW for his contributions. Happy Holidays all! Cheers, D.

Great to hear. Merry Xmas

P.S. Recently found several of the new IC 551 if anyone needs one in the future. Will let go for my cost+shipping. Post here because I have PMs blocked (or else I would never get any sleep LOL).

TW

TW

I have a Panasonic TH-42PX50U that gives me a 4 blink code. It powers up and has a beautiful picture for a few minutes and then I get the clicking sound like relays chattering. Then the picture fades out and it powers down. I have checked all the capacitors on every board. I have checked fuses. What the heck does 4 blinks mean anyway? The manufacture date of this unit is 08/05. Please don't tell me I have a large paperweight.

I have a Panasonic TH-42PX50U that gives me a 4 blink code. It powers up and has a beautiful picture for a few minutes and then I get the clicking sound like relays chattering. Then the picture fades out and it powers down. I have checked all the capacitors on every board. I have checked fuses. What the heck does 4 blinks mean anyway? The manufacture date of this unit is 08/05. Please don't tell me I have a large paperweight.

These models count their "blinks" as they go dark, not as they light up. You may have a 5 blink error code.

4 blinks = power problem
5 blinks = +5 vdc problem

One can only guess at changing the PS but these failures could be caused by any board. It may be time to call a pro.

TW

Thank you Techniwizard for all of your assistance above and beyond the call of duty. I will let you know how it turns out. I am so glad that I found this forum. What a resource!!!!!:):):)

Thank you Techniwizard for all of your assistance above and beyond the call of duty. I will let you know how it turns out. I am so glad that I found this forum. What a resource!!!!!:):):)

Sometimes I have info at hand, then it is easy. LOL

Happy New Year

TW

Been reading this wonderful thread and blowing on 1 of 4 fan did work for a while to resolve the shutdown problem. The plasma is mounted on the wall and is quite heavy. I just want to confirm that is indeed the problem and the part #FBL06A12LS is correct.

Also, every so often, top half of the screen goes blank. By changing the channel couple of times or power off/on the plasma fix the problem for couple of months. Any ideas? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciate it. Happy Holidays.

Been reading this wonderful thread and blowing on 1 of 4 fan did work for a while to resolve the shutdown problem. The plasma is mounted on the wall and is quite heavy. I just want to confirm that is indeed the problem and the part #FBL06A12LS is correct.

Also, every so often, top half of the screen goes blank. By changing the channel couple of times or power off/on the plasma fix the problem for couple of months. Any ideas? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciate it. Happy Holidays.

Six blinks can only be a fan error and the PN # is correct.

For the top half thing, loosen the screws on the SU board, upper left as viewed from the rear and slide it in and out of the SC board to clean off the edge connector contacts and hope for the best. Be careful of the panel ribbons, they will be brittle from heat and age.

TW

I put (connect) my computer (desktop) in the same plug where I have my Panny 42" and that fix the problem too.

I hope this can help you too.

Thanks T.W!!!

jsanch85, I was thinking the samething about using a computer fan for a quick fix. I dont know size/diameter of the fan and how it will mount on existing holes. If by chance you still have EASY access to the fan, I would greatly appreciate if you take some measurement. I have a 50" plasma mounted on the wall and it weights 200+ lbs. I am waiting for a buddy to be free to help me take it down.

No, what I said was that I connect a functional PC (Quad PC actually) in the same AC Plug, and that works!!!! NO MORE SHUT DOWN!!!

Hi
My pwd6 has joined the blink club - from reading this thread seems that it needs the strf6668 replacing - can any one tell me if this would be suitable
(wont let me add links yet - i'll add it two post down)

Also i was thinking i might try to just replace thermal compound first - TW mentioned it in an earlier post, if i was to replace the thermal compound first is, any suggestion on which would be the best and any special techniques in applying it.
Thanks in advance

link below

one more down

would this be a suitable replacement for the STRF6668

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=8064#features.

Thanks

would this be a suitable replacement for the STRF6668

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=8064#features.

Thanks

It's hard to say because we have only used the original replacement parts.
I have some but I don't know how much to post to the UK, may not be worth it.
What is your mon/yr of production ?
What TNPA2841xx suffix does your PS board have ?

TW

It's hard to say because we have only used the original replacement parts.
I have some but I don't know how much to post to the UK, may not be worth it.
What is your mon/yr of production ?
What TNPA2841xx suffix does your PS board have ?

TW

Hi TW

Thanks for the reply.
I'm not sure on either the month/year of manufacture, or the sufix on the ps board as i havent taken it off the wall yet.
ALL I've been doing is reading this thread, its taken me days lol

As you rightly said i dont think it would be worth having it shipped from the US. I think I may have sourced an original part in the uk - just awaiting to hear from the seller.

One other question
Does the TNPA2841AH board also suffer the same problem over time ?

thanks

Hi TW

Thanks for the reply.
I'm not sure on either the month/year of manufacture, or the sufix on the ps board as i havent taken it off the wall yet.
ALL I've been doing is reading this thread, its taken me days lol

As you rightly said i dont think it would be worth having it shipped from the US. I think I may have sourced an original part in the uk - just awaiting to hear from the seller.

One other question
Does the TNPA2841AH board also suffer the same problem over time ?

thanks

No, the TNPA2841AH board came from the Factory with the newer IC 551 already installed.

Target "failure" production was June-Sept. 2003

TNPA2841 with no suffix was the original production.

TNPA2841AB was installed in the next few months.

Both of the above would fail in around 5% of the units.

TNPA2841AE seemed to be an "upgrade" with hand selected (but original part) IC 551 These were found in Sept-December 2006. These were likely to fail about 2%.

TNPA2841AH was in some production in Nov. 2003, and Dec. 2003 and in all units by Jan 2004. These did not fail, at least not due to IC 551.

TW

No, the TNPA2841AH board came from the Factory with the newer IC 551 already installed.

Target "failure" production was June-Sept. 2006

TNPA2841 with no suffix was the original production.

TNPA2841AB was installed in the next few months.

Both of the above would fail in around 5% of the units.

TNPA2841AE seemed to be an "upgrade" with hand selected (but original part) IC 551 These were found in Sept-December 2006. These were likely to fail about 2%.

TNPA2841AH was in some production in Nov. 2006, and Dec. 2006 and in all units by Jan 2007. These did not fail, at least not due to IC 551.

TW

Thanks for that TW :)

One other question -
Which board would the TH42PA20 tv have, or is that also dependend on the date of manufacture? I may be able to get hold of a TH42PA20 tv.
Thanks in advance

Thanks for that TW :)

One other question -
Which board would the TH42PA20 tv have, or is that also dependend on the date of manufacture. I may be able to get hold of a TH42PA20 tv.
Thanks in advance

Same stats as above. TH-42PA25 should also have the TNPA2841AH.

TW

No, the TNPA2841AH board came from the Factory with the newer IC 551 already installed.

Target "failure" production was June-Sept. 2006

TNPA2841 with no suffix was the original production.

TNPA2841AB was installed in the next few months.

Both of the above would fail in around 5% of the units.

TNPA2841AE seemed to be an "upgrade" with hand selected (but original part) IC 551 These were found in Sept-December 2006. These were likely to fail about 2%.

TNPA2841AH was in some production in Nov. 2006, and Dec. 2006 and in all units by Jan 2007. These did not fail, at least not due to IC 551.

TW

Hi TW

I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out _ thank you

I've just removed the tv from the wall - the serial number is yb3350081 - can the serial number be used to determine when the year and month of manufacture ?
The reason I'm asking is that I wanted to find out the date of maufacture of the TH42PA20 tv i'm lookin to buy. Wouldnt want to buy it only to discover that it had the same PSU as mine.

Inside the cover there was also a sticker with Jun 03 - is this the manufacture date ?

Either way i have the dreaded - strf6668B IC so it'll need replacing.

I've never soldered anything in my life and so am looking to just buy the whole PSU board.
If i was to replace the PSU board is there anything else i would need to do, or would it just be a straight swap ?

Thanks

I have an early 03 MFG date and mine went about 2 mos ago. I already purchased a new TV. I had heard about this issue and just read through a bunch of stuff. If I recall I have 2 flashing lights (red) on my TH42PA20. I guess after reading it may only be 1 flashing light? Not 100% sure but seems to be this.

Break down. TV would shut down on its own. I could unplug, plug back in, and it worked fine. I had this issue for several months and we dont use the TV much except for a few hours at night. Last month it got worse and I would only get a few minutes before it would shut down again. I thought it was a goner and called Panasonic Tech Support and they had me reset a bunch of stuff and the TV seemed to work for a week then back to its normal issues of shutting down. I had lost hope until I read this thread:)

I thought I had read that it was the D Board a month ago but I can seem to find the blinking code chart that I had saved.

I know I did not have more then 2 flashes so I just want to see what I should check and/or needs to be ordered.

Thanks for your help!

Hi TW

I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out _ thank you

I've just removed the tv from the wall - the serial number is yb3350081 - can the serial number be used to determine when the year and month of manufacture ?
The reason I'm asking is that I wanted to find out the date of maufacture of the TH42PA20 tv i'm lookin to buy. Wouldnt want to buy it only to discover that it had the same PSU as mine.

Inside the cover there was also a sticker with Jun 03 - is this the manufacture date ?

Either way i have the dreaded - strf6668B IC so it'll need replacing.

I've never soldered anything in my life and so am looking to just buy the whole PSU board.
If i was to replace the PSU board is there anything else i would need to do, or would it just be a straight swap ?

Thanks

Well, Jun 03 and the number on the IC confirm that you need to replace it.
BTW, I must have been in stupid mode when I posted the year or production a few posts back. They should all be 2003 not 2006. I'll go back and edit later.

If you are worried about soldering, do as some have done, take your board and a new IC to a local TV Repair shop and offer a few dollars for them to replace it for you. This would be a straight swap. Changing the whole board may require voltage adjustments to match your original calibration.

TW

I have an early 03 MFG date and mine went about 2 mos ago. I already purchased a new TV. I had heard about this issue and just read through a bunch of stuff. If I recall I have 2 flashing lights (red) on my TH42PA20. I guess after reading it may only be 1 flashing light? Not 100% sure but seems to be this.

Break down. TV would shut down on its own. I could unplug, plug back in, and it worked fine. I had this issue for several months and we dont use the TV much except for a few hours at night. Last month it got worse and I would only get a few minutes before it would shut down again. I thought it was a goner and called Panasonic Tech Support and they had me reset a bunch of stuff and the TV seemed to work for a week then back to its normal issues of shutting down. I had lost hope until I read this thread:)

I thought I had read that it was the D Board a month ago but I can seem to find the blinking code chart that I had saved.

I know I did not have more then 2 flashes so I just want to see what I should check and/or needs to be ordered.

Thanks for your help!

A 2 blink failure is not the IC 551 problem mentioned here. Most likely a problem with the SU, SD, and/or SC boards. A board removal isolation technique is posted maybe back in this thread or in the "master shut-down" thread.

TW

^ Thank you! So is this a post by you? and what do you mean by master shut down thread? I read through this again and seem to have missed this information. I found a post that shared this info from you....

[quote/]No, the 37 never had a "shutdown problem" and the one in question is a "2 blinker" meaning trouble in the drive circuitry.

Most common suspect is called the SU PCB pn# TNPA2626.[quote/]

^ Thank you! So is this a post by you? and what do you mean by master shut down thread? I read through this again and seem to have missed this information. I found a post that shared this info from you....

[quote/]No, the 37 never had a "shutdown problem" and the one in question is a "2 blinker" meaning trouble in the drive circuitry.

Most common suspect is called the SU PCB pn# TNPA2626.[quote/]

There may be more, keep looking for posts by TW.

Thanks again. I will go through again to see if I pick up anything that I have missed.

Hi, seems I'm having the same issue as many of the people on here. Panasonic TH-42PA20, shuts off and has a 5 blink code, although I thought I saw someone mention that it is counted as the led goes dark, not as it lights up. I didn't count how many times it goes dark, but I think that it would be the same number, wouldn't it? 5 blinks on = 5 times dark...anyways, I have noticed that it has a tendancy to shut off more when I am using the pc in full screen. I have my desktop connected via the vga input, and anytime i watch a video in fullscreen, it will almost always shut off. It also shuts off when changing the signal input (component, pc, cable, etc.). I've read a little bit and have been browsing online and from what I can tell, it seems that I need to simply replace the "IC551" part. Is this correct? I got the tv for free, no warranty, don't want to pay for a tech to come out and look at it then charge me more for the part. Rather do it myself, if possible. Do you still have extra IC551 parts Techniwizard? Can anyone link me to the in-dapth guide on how to replace this part? Any and all aid would be greatly appreciated. Will be giving this tv as a gift to my mother, who was disabled in a car accident with a drunk driver. Thanks guys!

I have a TH-42PA20 with the shut down problem, it is approaching 6 years old now, and has recently seen a lot more use, we originally had it in a Game room where it saw only occassion use for DirecTv and DVD Playback both through the Component inputs, as well as very occasional Svideo input from a remote PC. Then we moved this TV into our Den and it now sees almost daily use for about the last 4 months, and over the past three weeks or so it started shutting down with what I was calling 7 blinks, where it is 6 quick blinks on, with a long blink on the 7th blink, so does that sound like the IC 551 part issue? Or is this possibly the fan issue? I went aheard and ordered the part (before I saw a post from TW that you had extra) and I am not afraid to get into the back of it and do some soldering, I only paid around 30 bucks including shipping, and I can always post it on ebay or something to recoup some of the cost if I don't need it. This issue does seem to be heat related maybe, as it seems to happen after we have been watching it for around 10 minutes or more, it happens when we play xbox or watch directv, I use a auto switch box for component inputs, but it also happened when we were using the VCR which is on coax or RCA I think, so I don't think it is related to the inputs used. We use a Monster Power Surge protector, and we do have occasional power outages, but I don't think it was that, I called panasonic and my extended warranty is up a year ago (I got a 5 year extended warranty) wishing I had used the TV more now, anyway, they referred me to some local repair shops, indicated it might be a power supply board problem with an SD, and/or SU, and/or SS boards and that the shop could diagnose it. Anyway, from everthing I have read it seems like the IC551 chip and I will be taking it apart to check for fan blockage/operation, and to replace that chip unless someone has other suggestions. I was considering calling panasonic back and seeing what I could get them to do since it is a known issue they have never publically announced or acknowledged but that seems to be fairly wide spread.

Check posts #376, 378,405,413, and 527 for some pix and step by step instructions.

When replacing, solder on both sides of the PCB.

T Wiz

Shutdown Fix for the 42PWD6UY (Commercial Unit) & 42PA20 (Consumer Unit)
Updated and corrected per feedback from TW, thanks TW :)
Also covers the TH37PWD6UY and TH37PA20U that use the same Power Supply Printed Circuit Board (PCB) TNPA2841xx and Integrated Circuit (IC) 551.

First a formost, this issue and fix only applies if your unit is June-Aug 2003 production or a very small number of Sept-Nov 2003 units
AND
IC 551 on the TNPA2841 power supply has a suffix B, you need the new IC 551 with a suffux M Part # C5HABZZ00123

TNPA2841xx and TNPA2841AB usually have the OLD IC.
TNPA2841AH should have the NEW IC already, in which case you have another type of problem if you have these symptoms.

I have found that you can buy the IC for around $20 or less plus shipping, and/or buy the entire TNPA2841AH board for anywhere from $80 bucks and up used on eBay (just search for that part number on eBay), you will find some that are the same power supply PCB for other models listed above as well as 37PA20 and 42PA20 I think they should be interchangeable but I am not an expert, just compiling info I have found on this forum in various posts. I also saw the TNPA2841AH PCB's on some parts sites for $200 and up. So on to the problem description and fix.

Problem:
The TV may operate normally for a while, the time may vary. Then you may hear a hissing or whining noise and the TV would shut itself down. Either 5 or 7 blinks will occur depending on unit. It may take awhile to get the TV to turn back on, by removing it from the power connection, and reconnecting it, I was able to get it turn back on after only a few minutes, only to have the problem return again, usually in a very short time.

There are several theories on the forums with regard to how long you may go before you see this ever happen on your TV, but it seems to be a number of hours the TV was watched in layman's terms, so your mileage may vary depending on how much use your TV has seen, some had the problem within the first year of purchase, others did not see it till 14, 18, 24, or 30 months, or in my case almost 6 years had passed, due to the TV being in a room where it was not used that often until we moved it recently to a room where it saw daily and almost continuous use.

So, aside from calling a Panasonic Service Center, or calling Panasonic, which I did, they referred me to a service center, and the support person I spoke with at Panasonic, although not acknowledging any fault on their part, did seem to indicate that this was some power problem based on the number of flashes my unit was exhibiting (for me it was 7 flashes) counting how many times the light went off it was seven, and that is the consensus on this forum of how to count it. Anyway the Panasonic support person said it was most likely a problem with one of the three power boards SC, SD, or SS. Not sure about this, just what he said, and that a service tech would have to diagnose it and order and replace the correct boards.

Well after a lot of searching and reading, I found this forum, and compiled all this information for those that want to do this themselves, or at least save some money by having faulty IC on the board replaced for a lot less than a service call, in house or otherwise to see if this resolves your issue.

Some supplies and tools suggested by other forum members to pick up from Radio Shack etc... if you don't have them already.

High tech Rosin-Core Solder
Heat Sink Compound paste
Desoldering Braid and/or Desoldering bulb. Desoldering the part can be challenging according to some others that have done this themselves.
Soldering iron (another forum member recommended A 40 watt iron with a 1/16 chisel tip)
Power screwdriver ( to remove the back panel and the power supply board)
Pliers (standard and needle nose)
Small snips ( a plier-like tool for cutting wire)
Isopropyl alcohol (also called rubbing alchohol)

Fix:
Order the new IC (Part# C5HABZZ00123) from Panasonic for $20.02 plus shipping, comes up to about $30 total. I found it on a different website, but for about the same price, around $30 delivered, just search for the part number online to find an electronics shop that will sell it.

1. Take the plasma off the wall mount and mounted it on the table stand that originally came with the TV if not already on the table stand so you can more easily work on the back of the TV.

2. Remove the wall mount, all the cables, let the TV sit disconnected from power and everything for a about 15 minutes to make sure there is no power in the unit, and then remove the back panel. There are about twenty (someone's post says 40) screws holding the back panel on. Remove the ones with adjacent arrows.

3. Remove the back off the unit, find the IC551 on the power supply board. The board is located near the top and off center to the right. The IC you're looking for is located to the far right on the board, attached to a cooling bar. You'll notice most the IC's on this board begin with the number 5, you've got the right board.

4. Find IC551 and the black IC with a screw through it, this is the IC you want. This part number should be CXA1315P, but don't be worried if you don't find it printed on the IC. Locate the power supply board and before removing it, first remove the connectors. These can be tough, but doable. Use pliers to grip the edges of the connector and pull them off. Then remove the five or six screws holding the card in place.

NOTE:
You may want to just take the board and new IC to a repair place or someone with the right tools and experience to replace the IC for you, otherwise, you can consider doing it yourself if you have needed tools, supplies and know how.

5. The easiest way to remove the old IC is to cut the legs first and then heat and remove the legs one at a time. A 40 watt iron with a 1/16 chisel tip is great because this is a dual sided board and the solder should melt completely before you pull on the leg. Otherwise you'll rip the copper clad off the board and make the repair ever so much harder.

6. Use solder wick (or some coax shield from stripped wire in a pinch) to sop up the old solder and clear the hole. Use a toothpick if need be to open up all 5 holes.

7. Install the new IC (use some of the heatsink paste if needed to make sur you get a good contact between the IC and the heatsink) and attach the screw to the heatsink before soldering . This gives some leeway to tighten the screw as the angle for a regular screwdriver is not the best.
NOTE: Be sure to solder both the top and bottom of the replaced IC
You may also want to use a small amount of isopropyl alcohol and an old tooth brush (or semi stiff brush) to clean up the solder flux from the bottom of the circuit board after soldering in the new part. Also, it is a good idea to clean up any additional heat sink compound that squeezes out after screwing in the new part to the heat sink.

thanks to "Techniwizard", "jpbroady", and "Scandy", and "Flt Instr" forum members for their posts, suggestions, pics and other details that I compiled for my own use to do this myself, and thought I would share with the forum so it would be all in one posting :)

I am also going to try and attach all the related pics and two different LED flash code pdf documents and these may or may not apply to your model, however, this issue is with the 5 or 7 blink code (counting the OFF state of the blinks) and the affected models and production dates in 2003 listed above.

Disclaimer:
I am a software support engineer, I have done this sort of thing before, so I am comfortable taking apart my TV and working on it. If you are in doubt, do not do this yourself, if you are concerned for your safety, do not do this yourself. If you are going to blame someone other than yourself (like me or anyone else on this or any other forum) do not do this yourself. I make no guarantees regarding this information, it makes sense to me, and I am going to follow this to try and repair my 6 year old TV myself to save some money and keep from having to buy a new one as soon, if you want to follow this as well, and you are having this same problem, then do so at your own risk.

Thanks for reading.

Sincerely,

Cliff
chewychewytoo

Shutdown Fix for the 42PWD6UY (Commercial Unit) & 42PA20 (Consumer Unit)

If your unit is June-Aug 2003 production or a very small number of Sept-Nov 2003 units
AND
IC 551 on the TNPA2841 power supply has a suffix B, you need the new IC 551 with a suffux M Part # C5HABZZ00123

TNPA 2841xx and TNPA2841AB usually have the OLD IC.
TNPA2841AH should have the NEW IC already, in which case you have another type of problem.

Fix:
Order the new transistor (Part# C5HABZZ00123) from Panasonic for $20.02 plus shipping, comes up to about $30 total. I found it on a different website, but for about the same price, around $30 delivered, just search for the part number online to find an electronics shop that will sell it.

Find IC551 and the black transistor with a screw through it, this is the transistor you want. This part number should be CXA1315P, but don't be worried if you don't find it printed on the transistor. Locate the power supply board and before removing it, first remove the connectors. These can be tough, but doable. Use pliers to grip the edges of the connector and pull them off. Then remove the five or six screws holding the card in place.

thanks to "Techniwizard", "jpbroady", and "Scandy", and "Flt Instr" forum members for their posts, suggestions, pics and other details that I compiled for my own use to do this myself, and thought I would share with the forum so it would be all in one posting :)

chewychewytoo

Pretty good compilation. Also covers the TH37PWD6UY and TH37PA20U that use the same Power Supply PCB TNPA2841xx and IC 551.

Only applies to 2003 production. 2004 production already had the new PCB TNPA2841AH. 2004 TH41PWD6UY will be the "A" model (TH42PWD6UYA) which is only shown by a small "A" near the model number on the front bezel near the power switch. Consumer 2004 model TH42PA25U also ad the newer PS PCB.

IC 551 is an IC (Integrated Circuit) not a transistor even though it looks like a transistor.

The LED chart is wrong. Each model uses a sligtly different chart. Correct chart attached but even without the chart, this problem shows a 5 or 7 blink code (LED=OFF).

Good luck to all. Don't forget to solder both top and bottom of the replaced IC.

T Wiz

Thanks TW for all your help - I finally have my tv working.

For those thinking of desoldering, who like me don't have any experience, take my advise and dont bother, i wasted hours.

Total cost was £25
Ic cost £10
Local repair shop charged £15 to replace the ic 551 and and did brill job.

Thanks again -

Thanks TW for all your help - I finally have my tv working.

For those thinking of desoldering, who like me don't have any experience, take my advise and dont bother, i wasted hours.

Total cost was £25
Ic cost £10
Local repair shop charged £15 to replace the ic 551 and and did brill job.

Thanks again -

Great to hear it is working.

T Wiz

I got mine working, I used wire cutters and snipped the legs of the old IC off the power supply board, and that made desoldering so much easier. Then I used needle nose pliers to hold the remaining leg pieces and pull them out as I heated them up with the soldering iron. Got it back together, had it all done in less than an hour, not counting having the back already off, and it also not being back on yet. But the TV has been on for almost 4 hours non stop with Directv and Xbox 360 both back and forth via my component auto switch, with out an interruption. So for ~32 bucks including shipping, (i had the soldering tools and solder already, my TH-42PA10 is back in business after already getting 6 years use, repairing it for 32 dollars and change seems like a steal to me! Thanks to TW and all the others than posted this great information that allowed me to do this myself with a little homework, and have my TV back and functioning again, this is a huge relief!

I got mine working, I used wire cutters and snipped the legs of the old IC off the power supply board, and that made desoldering so much easier. Then I used needle nose pliers to hold the remaining leg pieces and pull them out as I heated them up with the soldering iron. Got it back together, had it all done in less than an hour, not counting having the back already off, and it also not being back on yet. But the TV has been on for almost 4 hours non stop with Directv and Xbox 360 both back and forth via my component auto switch, with out an interruption. So for ~32 bucks including shipping, (i had the soldering tools and solder already, my TH-42PA10 is back in business after already getting 6 years use, repairing it for 32 dollars and change seems like a steal to me! Thanks to TW and all the others than posted this great information that allowed me to do this myself with a little homework, and have my TV back and functioning again, this is a huge relief!

Kewl,

Great to hear it is working.

I have a few of these ICs brand new that I'm putting up on eBay next week if any one wants or needs one.

T Wiz

Hello, I have a th-42pw5, the mosfet fs7vs 14a was blown! it is the one that goes in front of that capacitor 160v x 100uf, I replaced for a k2545 because where I live does not has this part for sale and the datasheet of this two mosfet are very similar, the only difference I was in doubt is the rds (on) that is 0.9 ohms in this 2sk2545, then the tv power on (I can hear the sound zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz) and then it turn off ... when I try to power on again it blink 3 green and 2 red, anyone knows some fix for this tnpa2534ae board? I dont want to replace the full board unit!!!! do I need to compensate this ohms difference with a resistor of 900 homs? where do I need to mod this resistor? what parts else could be blow in this case of a blown fs7vs 14a??? please help me!!!! my e-mail is italiangirardi@gmail.com

I would like to thank everyone in this thread, especially the gifted diagnosticians who have been extremely helpful. I went through the troubleshooting steps and I seem to have at least a defective SC board and maybe defective SD and SU boards. However, the SD and SU do not show any signs of failure.

I seem to have the same problem as "tnpa2534ae", except my SC board is from TH-37PW5 and the model of my board ends in "ac". The same mosfet looks burnt on my board. See picture.

I found two complete SC boards on ebay, but they are around $120. Is this a fair price or does anyone know where I can find a better price?

I have a TH-42PA20 that had the twelve blink problem.. Went through this post, and I think one other on this board, and just replaced the D board...

Now it has a solid red power light, but the LEDs on the SC and SS boards do not light up, there is no 'click' from the power button, and the unit just sits with a steady red power light...

Using the old D board, it clicks, and the LEDs on the SC and SS boards light, then go out and I get the 12 blink issue..

What's the best way to go from here to test?

I have a TH-42PA20 that had the twelve blink problem.. Went through this post, and I think one other on this board, and just replaced the D board...

Now it has a solid red power light, but the LEDs on the SC and SS boards do not light up, there is no 'click' from the power button, and the unit just sits with a steady red power light...

Using the old D board, it clicks, and the LEDs on the SC and SS boards light, then go out and I get the 12 blink issue..

What's the best way to go from here to test?

12 blinks is a problem on the PA board, the board that sits on top of the D board. That's as much as I know about this consumer model.

TW

Found a local PA board on Ebay for $70.00... Picked it up this afternoon & installed it with the new D board.. Same thing..

Red light comes on, but no relay 'click' and no leds on the SC or SS boards..

Swapped in the old D board with the new PA board, and get the relay 'click' leds on the SC & SS boards light, then go off with the 12 blink code..

:(

From digging through this thread, It looks like the P board may be my next suspect? I have a TNPA2841AH in it now.. I've looked closely at both sides of the D, PA, P, PH, DG, SS, & SC boards and don't see any burnt resistors, caps, etc..

Guessing it's got to be power related.. Any direction is Greatly appreciated!

I just wanted to add my thanks for the instructions for this fix. I have a TH42PA20 (June 2003) that I purchased when this model first came out. It just started with the shutoff and 7 blinks about two weeks ago. So it took almost 7 years for this problem to surface with my unit. I found this article, ordered the part, studied the instructions and performed the replacement yesterday. So far so good. I plan to watch the Masters tournament today.... I consider myself to have average soldering experience and it went well. The desoldering is the toughest. One tip I received years ago was to put a little flux on the braid and it will help suck up the solder. I use a standard paste.
Thanks again.

Steve

My Panasonic TH-42PD50U gives a two blink error.
Does any one have a PDF for trouble shooting on this TV?
Or have any suggestions on what to do.
Thanks

12 blinks is a problem on the PA board, the board that sits on top of the D board. That's as much as I know about this consumer model.

TW

HELP!!!!!!!!

I have a panny th-42pa20. It has a date n the back of: Sept 03. I see it light up(screen), then it turns off right away as it clicks and blinks 12 times. Will the f668m ic work to fix this? I have the board tnp2841 ae(the ae looks like a small inkstamp)

Is there anyone who can help me out? I am on yahoo messenger as jolietguy34, I really need this set working by the end of the week. as I am trading my 50" panny for a truck, and i wont have a tv unless I get this fixed. This set and I **** you not, has about 10 hours of use, as I took it out of the ex wifes basement, since she didnt use it anymore. It has been doing the 12 blinks for 5 years now, and I just never fixed it.

Techwix(sorry if I got the wrong) if that will work, the 551 ic, I would need to buy one from you asap please. Please contact me on yahoo messenger if at all possible, or send an e mail to jolietguy34 at yahoo dot com

I also saw this: the SOUND SOS detection input monitors ofr irregularities in sound output circuit of the PA board. . A defective speaker or excessive current drain of the audio amplifier IC causes the power LED to blink 12 times.

see page number 47... 3rd point.. that is what the problem you face exactly...

but I cant find that manual.......... how do I disconnect that amp? I use an external sound system powered from my computer, and I dont watch commercial television...

let me ask, its also 11 short blinks and 1 long, is that an 11 or 12 blink????

Dude,

The IC 551 thing would be only 5 or 7 blinks and would usually work for some time (30-60 min)before shutdown.
12 blinks (count them as the go DARK, not as they ligt UP)as I said is something on the PA board and that is the extent of my knowledge on this old beast.

Don't count the long blink and 11 short ON blinks probably = 12 OFF blinks - see above.

The PA board for this model is TXNPA1QCSU, number on the board is
TNPA2884. Google EBAY to see if anyone has it.

Here's one guaranteed for around $100...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360173068442&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXI8&GUID=59e53c2c1270a041b7734893ffff3a52&itemid=360173068442&ff4=263602_263622

EBAY item 360173068442 if you can't get the link to work.

TW



TW

Dude,

The IC 551 thing would be only 5 or 7 blinks and would usually work for some time (30-60 min)before shutdown.
12 blinks (count them as the go DARK, not as they ligt UP)as I said is something on the PA board and that is the extent of my knowledge on this old beast.

Don't count the long blink and 11 short ON blinks probably = 12 OFF blinks - see above.

The PA board for this model is TXNPA1QCSU, number on the board is
TNPA2884. Google EBAY to see if anyone has it.

Here's one guaranteed for around $100...



EBAY item 360173068442 if you can't get the link to work.

TW



TW

YES It is 12 off blinks. Do you know what might have gone wrong on the board? i have an electronics guy here in Chicago and I have the tv taken apart already. I am assuming this is the sound board. I dont use sound from the tv, so how can I disconnect it? is there a way. Tech, thanks for your fas reply on this

Please read my post again:

"...and that is the extent of my knowledge on this old beast..."

Your guy will have to get the manual and start looking for defective components.

TW

Please read my post again:

"...and that is the extent of my knowledge on this old beast..."

Your guy will have to get the manual and start looking for defective components.

TW

I found a board for 30 bucks ordered it already

Hi
my set is about 5 years old and after being on for not more than 20-30min the picture starts to go away, as if voltage is dropping and the set shuts off and i get 7 blinks..i read a few posts about and this is what i found out

7 blinks Driver SOS 2 SU / SD / SS Boards
(SC floating voltage area)

I'm pretty handy and have an electronics repair background just not very well versed in plasmas..techwizard any advice? also on where to get the parts? at this point if it's going to cost more than a couple hundred bucks, this set's not worth repairing it?

thanks!

Hi
my set is about 5 years old and after being on for not more than 20-30min the picture starts to go away, as if voltage is dropping and the set shuts off and i get 7 blinks..i read a few posts about and this is what i found out

7 blinks Driver SOS 2 SU / SD / SS Boards
(SC floating voltage area)

I'm pretty handy and have an electronics repair background just not very well versed in plasmas..techwizard any advice? also on where to get the parts? at this point if it's going to cost more than a couple hundred bucks, this set's not worth repairing it?

thanks!

At 5 years old, the binks are counted as they go DARK, not as they light up. I'd guess you have a long ON followed by six (6) short OFF and ON blinks.

Six blinks in an older model would be a FAN failure.
Take the back cover off, but do not blow out the dust yet. Power up and identify the flaky fan. Once identified, blow out the hair and dust bunnies. Tha bad fan should be replaced because it will only fail again soon. While you are a it, best to change all fans at the same time.

Get me the exact model display and I'll get you the part number and where to purchase.

TW

At 5 years old, the binks are counted as they go DARK, not as they light up. I'd guess you have a long ON followed by six (6) short OFF and ON blinks.

Six blinks in an older model would be a FAN failure.
Take the back cover off, but do not blow out the dust yet. Power up and identify the flaky fan. Once identified, blow out the hair and dust bunnies. Tha bad fan should be replaced because it will only fail again soon. While you are a it, best to change all fans at the same time.

Get me the exact model display and I'll get you the part number and where to purchase.

TW



the model is TH42 PHD8UK and is April 06, and as far as i can tell, the red LED stays on for about 3-4 seconds the goes off (this is when i start counting) when goes off for the 7th time stays on again for the 3-4 seconds..

thanks again!

the model is TH42 PHD8UK and is April 06, and as far as i can tell, the red LED stays on for about 3-4 seconds the goes off (this is when i start counting) when goes off for the 7th time stays on again for the 3-4 seconds..

thanks again!

OK, the Series 8 is when they started counting the ON blinks (the short ones, not that LONG one)
7 blinks is a SCAN2 problem, likely SU, SD, and/or SU.

Here is a parts list for the 37 and 42 HD8 series. Luckily in this case, the numbers on the SU. SD, and SC boards are the same as the order numbers. That is not always the case.

TW

OK, the Series 8 is when they started counting the ON blinks (the short ones, not that LONG one)
7 blinks is a SCAN2 problem, likely SU, SD, and/or SU.

Here is a parts list for the 37 and 42 HD8 series. Luckily in this case, the numbers on the SU. SD, and SC boards are the same as the order numbers. That is not always the case.

TW

should i replace them both? how much are they roughly?
also do you have a picture/schematics to how to locate these parts on the back?

also what's the best way to troubleshoot them?

thanks again for the help!

thanks!

should i replace them both? how much are they roughly?
also do you have a picture/schematics to how to locate these parts on the back?

also what's the best way to troubleshoot them?

thanks again for the help!

thanks!

Hi TW

i tried pulling one card at a time (with ribbons plugged in) and had bad half picture, with lots of vertical lines, that was with the SU unplugged, SD plugged, as soon as i unplugged both cards, the TV now won't turn anymore, and i get the flashing red light 2x now, does this mean i need a new SC card?

unplugged all cables from the SC card and now set turns on and no blinking red..but obviously no picture and no menu screen either..so i'm looking for an SC card, no luck so far, Ebay they're kinda of expensive and i'm not sure about "as is" as i may end up with another bad card..

TW any thoughts?



thanks again for all the help!!

Panasonic TH-42PX60U No Video and Sound

Power LED lights up. No flashing. SS board LED lights up and SC board doesn't so I replaced with one I bought off ebay. Still nothing. What next D board?

Unplugged SD and SU one at a time and nothing.

Here I go, I am just uploading to experts help me, I am quite desperate to this plasma TV, I´ve spent more than 300usd and nothing, I replaced the SC board that was visible burnt and later I thought that the problem was the D1 of this board, (main board that has the processor and sound circuit builted in to this champion model.

THE GREEN LIGHT REMAINS LIT, NO BLINKINGS AT ALL ... I CAN SEE THE LEDS ON SC AND SS BOARDS! HOW CAN I TEST THE D2 BOARD FOR THIS CHAM´PION CV142 MODEL???

I tested the voltages on both power supplies and it seems the voltages to be perfect fine!

All I got is some kind of similar backlight on, no picture, no menu option ... nothing at all on screen, I ONLY GET A BACKLIGHT ON SCREEN AND THE GREEN LIGHT STAYS ON!

It should show me the menu at least, I am suspecting now that the D2 board or ss board is the fault, but not sure!!!! how to test the d2 board in this model? here goes pictures of the tv turned on and the manual for it! I´ve checked and it is exactly the same boards ......

I would like to thank everyone in this thread, especially the gifted diagnosticians who have been extremely helpful. I went through the troubleshooting steps and I seem to have at least a defective SC board and maybe defective SD and SU boards. However, the SD and SU do not show any signs of failure.

I seem to have the same problem as "tnpa2534ae", except my SC board is from TH-37PW5 and the model of my board ends in "ac". The same mosfet looks burnt on my board. See picture.

I found two complete SC boards on ebay, but they are around $120. Is this a fair price or does anyone know where I can find a better price?
dude, your problem is some of those mosfet shorted, it burns that mosfet because some of the other mosfet are shorted ... you need to test one by one .... or buy a new sc board
!

I´ve spent more than 300usd and nothing ...

This is a great example of spending good money after bad.

According to this thread (http://forum.teamxbox.com/archive/index.php/t-331798.html), this Champion model era 2005 was only 480p, and a cheap third-party RCA model. A search turned up a few expensive replacement boards for the set, but no service manual which is usually essential.

Wow, for a few dollars more you could have purchased a new plasma with better specs and a warranty.

I have this same repeating problem as others with respect to the SC board, but rather than swap out the SC board I'd like to try and repair it, is their a circuit diagram for this board? I can't find one on the net and I am hoping someone out there has it, I have check all the voltages on the TPs on this board and they appear to be correct except for the TPVset which is 174vdc instead of 218vdc , so I know the board isn't a total dud. I have managed to find a block diagram and the artwork but no circuit. The PCB is TNPA2867AK.

Thanks in advance Chris

I have read the forums, very helpful in places so thanks, but nothing appears specific to my issue.

I have two blinking red lights on my panasonic TH-42PWD6. I get vertical blue and yellow lines down the left of the screen (full length) before it shuts down. Carried out the troubleshooting of removing SD and SU boards independantly, these seem fine.

Turning to the SC board; Blinking stopped if the SC23 and SC2 connections were made and the SC20 connection was unplugged. Therefore, narrowed it down to the connection between SC20 and D20.

Have bought and installed new SC board in case it was a prob with that. This fixed the blinking for 10 seconds then it shutdown again. I have a feeling that this new SC board is now damaged as there was a burning smell as it sht down.

My question is, does this mean there is a problem with the D board? Or are there numerous problems and I should cut my losses and recycle the TV.

I have found a circuit and also I beleive the fault to be with an IC6601 that controls 2 Mosfets in a Voltage Boost circuit, I think the chip is a M63992FP made by Mitsubishi. I have checked the Mosfets and the Superfast Dual Diodes, both check out o.k. I don't believe its the transistors controlling the Mosfets but the IC controlling them. Inductors in the circuit are still generating voltage as testiment to High voltage ~220 VDC seen momentarily when measuring circuit. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

dude, your problem is some of those mosfet shorted, it burns that mosfet because some of the other mosfet are shorted ... you need to test one by one .... or buy a new sc board
!
Ok, this tv has sc board that is the one to the left, it has the d1 board with sound builted in, d2 board that goes inside d1, the first power supply and the tnpa2598 big power supplu, then finally the ss board.

Do you mean that SS board may not be working properly? how to test the boltages in it?

The real problem was the sc board that had a mosfet burned! I could not fix it and replaced the full board! and the tv is powering on, but it remains on that gray screen ... I can see the back light of plasma on .......

Then I suspected of d1, this d1 has a sound card builted in and fun control ...... I ordered a brand new board and still the same symptom!

Now that I arrive here, I got the full diagram for this TNPA2598, that is the main power supply that supply the driver boards ..... I will test item per item!!!! and I will follow the tracks one by one into diodes, and I will look over the internet information of datasheet in order to test it.

Then, after I understand item per item of this power supply ..... I believe there is some problem in this power supply it has some optocuplers .... many zener diods ..... mosfets and inductors!

I will test one by one until I find the problem.

Now lets see who is the boss!!!!

I have this same repeating problem as others with respect to the SC board, but rather than swap out the SC board I'd like to try and repair it, is their a circuit diagram for this board?

Just to help those who might attempt to repair this TV or boards:

TH-42PA20U Service Manual (http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_th-37,42pa20_sm.rar/download.html)

TH-42PA20U Technical Guide (http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_gp6d_th-42,50px20u_42,37pa20u_plasma_info.pdf/download.html)

I found the technical guide helpful in understanding the circuitry of later models.

CHAMPION CVI4200 42" PLASMA MONITOR

Chassis No. J3W-CVI4200
S\N: 54201838

MADE IN JAPAN 1AA6P4S2905


Ok, forum I am am a slave of my words!

Here is the power lines


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=190241&stc=1&d=1288936214


Then I just begin to create a pdf files specifical for this model of Champion Cvi4200, later I will post a link here in order to help another electrical engineer to repair This plasma tv.

It is a shame that Champion company so called respected company is doing to their customers as there is not a service manual for this and the technology are mixes with "Sanyo, Panasonic and Fujitsu".

THE MAIN BOARDS RESPONSIBLE FOR MANY PROBLEMS AND THE ONES I AM TESTING RIGHT NOW AND CREATING A PDF WITH ALL OF THEM TOGETHER AFTER EDITING THE WORKING STEPS USING PANASONIC TRAINING CURSES ARE:

Champion "CVI4200" uses "P1" FROM PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5 TNPA2598, AS SS BOARD SUSTAIN BOARD TNPA2535 ALSO FROM PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5, AS SC SCAN BOARD TNPA2534 ALSO AS PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5,

NOW AS "D2" BOARD TNPA2653 (THIS IS THE BOARD THAT CONTROLS THE LOGIC PULSES ON BOTH SC AND SS BOARDS).

I AM DESPERATE LOOKING FOR DIAGRAM OF D2 TNPA2653 BOARD IN ORDER TO FINISH MY MANUAL AND GO AHEAD TO DIAGNOSES ONCE I GOT ALL CIRCUITS INTO A DOCUMENT.

IS THERE A REPLACEMENT SIMILAR BOARD FOR THIS D2??? THE REASON I AM ASKING THIS IS BECAUSE IT HAS A FIRMWARE THAT SYNCH TO SANYO D1?

THIS CHAMPION CVI4200 USES THE SAME "D1 BOARD FROM SANYO"

BOARD THAT SANYO PLASMA TV USES ON ... PDP-42WV1 / PDP-42WV1S / PDP-42WV1A / PDP-42WV1AS

AS "D1" THIS CHAMPION 42CVI USES SANYO "D1" THAT HAS THIS SERIAL NUMBER ATTACHED TO IT (J3WG 407J01 B10N040A0) THIS BOARD WORKS TOGETHER WITH A RESSONANT FILTER THAT SOURCES THE STB 5V TO THIS SANYO "D1" AND THIS FILTER HAS A NUMBER IN IT (SUP-R10G-E1-5)

This SUP could mean "supressor".

THIS D1 BOARD HAS "Z" BOARD BUILTED IN, I MEAN THE SOUND CARD IS BUILTED IN THIS BOARD ALSO THE CONTROL FOR TWO FANS, ONE TO THE RIGHT AND ANOTHER IN FRONT OF THIS (SUP-R10G-E1-5)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=190242&stc=1&d=1288936198


BUT I NEED TO FIND THE DOCUMENT RELATED TO THIS TNPA2653 AND ALSO HOW TO TEST IT!!!

I NEED TO CHECK IF THE VIDEO SIGNAL IS GOING TO THIS BOARD ONCE I POWER ON THE UNITAND IF THIS BOARD IS SENDING THE SIGNAL TRIGGER TO MOSFET ON SC AND SS DRIVERS.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=190240&stc=1&d=1288936198

I could not understand this ................


THEN ........

BINGO!!!

I WILL FIND OUT WHATS WORONG WITH THIS STUFF.

PLEASE, HELP ME ............................................. IT IS ALMOST ONE YEAR WORRIED AND WORKING INTO THIS PLASMA TV.

I'VE ORDERED TNPA2534 BRAND NEW AFTER THE MOSFET WAS BURNED!

BUT I ONLY GOT A GRAY SCREEN ONLY WITH PLASMA LIGHTS ON

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=181823&d=1280469865

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=181824&d=1280469865

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=181825&d=1280469865


NOW THE NEXT STEP WILL BE:

1) CHECK VOLTAGE LINES ON "D2",
2)CHECK IF "D1" IS SENDING THE SIGNAL TO "D2",
3)CHECK IF "D2 TNPA2653" IS TRIGGERING THE VOLTAGES ON SC AND SS BOARDS.

BY THE WAY .....

I GOT A "D1 (J3WG 407J01 B10N040A0) THE SAME THAT SANYO PLASMA TV USES ON ... PDP-42WV1 / PDP-42WV1S / PDP-42WV1A / PDP-42WV1AS" TO SELL AS I DID NOT TESTED THIS BOARD AND JUST ORDERED IT, I can accept paypal.

MY EMAIL IS italiangirardi@gmail.com

I just spent hours and hours in this frustrated plasma repair and my looses are already out of control ..............

It is a quite hard job to organize and mount a "pdf" manual using mixed technologies of 3 companies!

But I am doing as much as I can to make a proper "pdf" for this Champion CV14200

Maybe one day I will get a job to make "technical manuals" as I am quite logic and smart to make this kind of stuff.

Hello, I have an old (Jan 2003) TH42PWD5UY that shuts down shortly (not always immediately - sometimes up to 5-10 minutes later) after being turned on.

I took the cover off and pulled the SU board and got a picture on the bottom. Put the SU back in and pulled the SD. Picture now on top. Put the SD back in - weird psychedelic colors on the bottom. Re-seated the SD a couple of times and a full screen picture showed up. Ran like this (with no rear cover) for 10-20 minutes without any problems.

So - I thanked the electronics gods and put the cover back on and turned the TV back on. I was able to watch TV for 5-10 minutes, then it turned off again with the same 2 Red Flash code.

Do I have screwy boards or is this possibly a different issue?

Do this monitors still fetch any $ when sold for parts? I'm tempted to collect whatever I can and buy a new TV...

Thanks,

\ Henrik

Hello, I have an old (Jan 2003) TH42PWD5UY that shuts down shortly (not always immediately - sometimes up to 5-10 minutes later) after being turned on.

I took the cover off and pulled the SU board and got a picture on the bottom. Put the SU back in and pulled the SD. Picture now on top. Put the SD back in - weird psychedelic colors on the bottom. Re-seated the SD a couple of times and a full screen picture showed up. Ran like this (with no rear cover) for 10-20 minutes without any problems.

So - I thanked the electronics gods and put the cover back on and turned the TV back on. I was able to watch TV for 5-10 minutes, then it turned off again with the same 2 Red Flash code.

Do I have screwy boards or is this possibly a different issue?

Do this monitors still fetch any $ when sold for parts? I'm tempted to collect whatever I can and buy a new TV...

Thanks,

\ Henrik

Well, either the SU (probably) or SD or even the SC is heating up only with the cover on.
Try the same SU/SD pull test and put the cover back on until it overheats again.
Of course put a piece of plastic around the removed board so it doesn't short against the rear panel.

TW

Hi TechniWizard - thanks for your reply.

The situation has changed a little. I tried pulling the SU board, the SD board and both of them together, but every time I turn the TV on now, it sits for 2-3 seconds and then a red LED (marked D853) on the SC board lights up briefly and the TV turns off. Then I get the two red flashes again.

So - bad SC board? I'm wondering if I'd be better off just replacing all 3 of them...

I see some on ebay. If you happen to have any for sale, please send me a PM?

Thanks,

\ Henrik