Question on the "Crawl test". My primary seating postion will be in the middle seat of 3 Berkline 90's. How do I place the sub in the primary position? Do I place it on the ground in front of the Berkline? Do I move the Berkline? If so, won't moving it change the responnse of the room when it is moved back?

Thanks - Drew

Ground in front of the middle Berkline will do just fine.
Curt

Question on the "Crawl test". My primary seating postion will be in the middle seat of 3 Berkline 90's. How do I place the sub in the primary position? Do I place it on the ground in front of the Berkline? Do I move the Berkline? If so, won't moving it change the responnse of the room when it is moved back?

Thanks - Drew

I would want my sub placed about where my head would be. Not always easy to do, but that is where your ears are, so for the test to work properly, that is where the sub should be while you "crawl for bass" with your ears.

Just my $.02

The DD on-screen equalising mostly for 2.1 systems?

The DD subs with th sweep, mic and video out for on-screen calibration are fine subs. But they seem mostly for 2.1 systems. The sweep comes out of a stereo output, should be played in the system speakers and be used to calibrate the sub.

My system, however, is a Meridian system that with the addition of the DD-12 is a 5.2 system. The Meridian D1500 sub is a "Front Centre Sub" and the DD-12 is a "Rear Surround Sub".

If the fronts are set as large the Meridian bass management looks like this:

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5577/sub2mchan5oq.gif

But I can find no way of getting the generated sweep being played in the DD-12!

The Meridian G68 processor has a lot of editable presets, but I can find no option for taking a stereo signal that comes on an analogue in an play that in all speakers! Using the Stereo Preset and setting fronts to Small gives sound in the Front Centre Sub due to bass management. Using the preset Trifield spreads sound to most speakers, but the rears get just some ambient sound so there's no bass to manage and send to the rear sub! And the Meridian is anyway more flexible than most processors/recievers...

What is one intended to do for calibrating a system for movies and multi-channel music? I guess if the sub came with a calibration DTS CD with the sweep in five channels + LFE everything would work, but with this generated stereo output from the sub it seems like a brick wall came between me and calibration.

Hi-

I just found this thread...I'm fairly new to AVS Forums having just come across it not too long ago.

Anyhow, just wanted to ask a question about my SPL 800 series II to see if this is something typical and something I should not worry about.

About a month ago, I had the amp swapped out. My sub was making a low, rumbling wind like noise when it was on...even when nothing was being played. Velodyne was awesome. I dealt with David in customer service and he had me ship my plate amp out and a new one (or atleast mine, repaired) back out to me, no problems. Awesome customer service. Now, the amp/sub work perfectly...no wind-tunnel sound. But, there is a new noise, but maybe this is something that's normal. I have it set to auto on. When a signal is not detected for a few minutes and it goes back into stand-by mode, I can hear an audible "click" noise...almost like you can physically hear the amp shutting off. It's not loud, and it doesn't appear to be coming from the driver at all, but it's definitely audible. I can't place where the sound is coming from. It doesn't seem to be affecting the sub in any way...still works fine, still comes on when it should, still sounds great. But I guess I bring it up because I'm wondering if this is something that could cause problems down the road. Is this "clicking" sound something typical when the amp/sub switches from on to stand-by? Just curious. Thanks for any help.

I sent you a PM.
Curt

But I can find no way of getting the generated sweep being played in the DD-12!
I have a Ref861 and an SMS-1-controlled sub which I sometimes used for the rear channels. What I did is to connect the test signals to the SR/SL analog inputs and let the Meridian's bass management route it to the sub.

You might also try posting this on the Meridian forum at: http://www.meridianunplugged.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=7

Kal

For HT, should the sweeps from the DD be digitized and sent to all 7 channels for setup? (my preamp can apply PLIIx to the analog inputs) or should they be sent to the mains in stereo?

Curt, thanks. I pm'd you back.

For HT, should the sweeps from the DD be digitized and sent to all 7 channels for setup? (my preamp can apply PLIIx to the analog inputs) or should they be sent to the mains in stereo?

Hi,
Send to the mains in stereo.
Curt

I have a Ref861 and an SMS-1-controlled sub which I sometimes used for the rear channels. What I did is to connect the test signals to the SR/SL analog inputs and let the Meridian's bass management route it to the sub.

You might also try posting this on the Meridian forum at: http://www.meridianunplugged.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=7

Kal

Thanks for your answer.

I connected the test signal to an analogue input (A6 on the G68, but they are remappable so that it's A6 is insignificant) and the G68 wants to play that as a stereo signal. Bass management can send the bass to the front sub, but not to the rear sub. If not the 861 works differently, or I misunderstood something. the problem is that I have to subs of different types, if I could have had them as L/R subs it would have been easy.

I have posted at the Meridian forum, but the lack of multiple subwoofer interest is widespread there. John Kotches of course has two Velodynes, but they are a matching pair and surely L/R.

I guess I can create a suitable sweep on a DVD/DVD-A with information in the LFE channel, but it's pretty clear that what I first have to do is to move the DD-12 to become the front sub. Having two non-matching subs not playing exactly the same bass can never be great when it comes to RC, since the bass will be distributed differently depending if it comes from LFE or is "managed".

Why do I want two subs?

Well, I have had the Meridian D1500 sub for a while. It's a good, musical sub, but not powerful enough for movies in our 32sqm room. It's also a room where it's hard to get the sound balanced:

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/5713/vardagsrum5oe.gif

The red letters are WAF-researched possible sub positions. B is the current position for the D1500 sub, so I thought I should try adding the DD-12 at G. That's what I can do without buying/building new cables. I think A+E or B+G are the best combinations in this room, but it seems like the DD-12 should be at A or B...

I just purchased a Belkin PF60 power console and it is equipped with 2 HiCurrent outlets for high-powered amplifiers. Would I be hurting the performance of my DD15 by using this outlet instead of just plugging it straight into the wall? On the same note (understanding I should post this in the amp forum) I know a lot of you in this thread have seperates. I own an Anthem MCA50 and Anthem mentions not to use a line conditioner since it may limit available power, but with the more expensive power centers with HIcurrent outlets, is this really an issue?

Hi,
With any power device, make sure it will pass the full power, 15 amps in most cases. As Anthem points out some are filters that limit available power. Also calculate the power usage of all devices hooked to the unit. If possible allow 15 amps, or close for the DD-15.
Curt

Hi, I'm looking to upgrade from my current sub and was thinking about a CHT-12r (I think its a DLS model in the US). But I've got the chance to pick up a second hand FSR-12 for about half the price of the CHT-r. I'm mainly after a sub that will pair well with the maggies, and have a 80/20 split of music over movies. Obviously, the servo-FSR was tops in its day, but can anyone shed any light on how well it would stack up with the new Velodyne subs? Thanks in advance.

Hi,
There are no parts or service for the older FSR-12. It was a servo design and did very well on music in a small room. Home Theater was not it's forte. I suggest you review our website for subwoofer recommendations. Go to www.velodyne.com and under "which product" you'll find "subwoofer recommendations". If large enough, I would suggest the SPL-1200R. It works very well with in a dual role with the Maggie's. I'm currenty using one with 1.6's in a small music/HT set up. Sounds great.
Thanks,
Curt

Does anyone know of a free program that I can use to create a sweep as the one the DD subs emit? Or maybe Velodyne has that sweep so oone could download it?

If I should be able to calibrate my system for movies I need to have the sweep playing in the different spekers, including my two subs, in the same way as in a movie. At least I need the sweep in Left, Right and LFE. Then it will play in fronts and both subs, by using Meridian trifield I can get it to all speakers and I can adjust levels so more will come through the fronts than the rears - like in a standard movie.

I will place the DD-12 as the front sub and the Meridian D1500 as the rear sub, just have to fix a longer 75 ohm koax for the D1500...

My Servo 1200 died after 17 years...
Any chance it can be resurrected? (LED does not light, Fuses are good, assume power supply has died????)

If not, what is a comparable Velodyne Sub?

Thanks,

Daniel

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. A comparable subwoofer would be a SPL-1200R.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

Thank you for the prompt reply.

Daniel

Some suggestions for Velo:


OK..We DD-12 and DD-10 owners have been skanked out of the nice aluminum feet of the DD-15's and 18's. We've also been robbed of their nice microphone input on the front. In addition, we've been cheated out of the video shielding that our larger brethren take for granted. Skanked, Robbed, Cheated, I tell you!!!

Here's ONE inclusion of our larger brethen that sure would be nice to have, and it wouldn't cost Velo a whole heckuva lot of dough; Are ya ready?!

It's those nice soft polyfoam box inserts! Instead of that cheap crumble-prone hard styrofoam that comes with the DD-10's and 12's, it sure would be nice to have something that holds up a bit better, especially after repeated usage such as when bringing the sub to demos. Hard styrofoam just doesn't cut it..it breaks it. Please consider. :)

Ran

Some suggestions for Velo:


OK..We DD-12 and DD-10 owners have been skanked out of the nice aluminum feet of the DD-15's and 18's. We've also been robbed of their nice microphone input on the front. In addition, we've been cheated out of the video shielding that our larger brethren take for granted. Skanked, Robbed, Cheated, I tell you!!!

Here's ONE inclusion of our larger brethen that sure would be nice to have, and it wouldn't cost Velo a whole heckuva lot of dough; Are ya ready?!

It's those nice soft polyfoam box inserts! Instead of that cheap crumble-prone hard styrofoam that comes with the DD-10's and 12's, it sure would be nice to have something that holds up a bit better, especially after repeated usage such as when bringing the sub to demos. Hard styrofoam just doesn't cut it..it breaks it. Please consider. :)

Ran

I KNEW there was a reason I opted for the DD15! :D

Actually, the biggest bump in woofage is from the DD-12 to the DD-15. A good choice indeed.

Carnival Barker:

"Step right up. Step right up. Check out the new DD-15. Ya wanna REALLY move some air? Forget that little DD-12 tike. Step up to the Big Leagues! Ya like nice pretty feet? How about a mic input on the front! And video shielding to boot?! Oh, and lest we forget...superb soft packaging material.."

Hi Bruce,
just finished upgrading my first sub DD-15 to v2.2 and indeed the frequency curve in the lower frequencies is much flatter.

I did have a problem putting all the old parameters back, the sub was calibrated by my dealer and in v2.0 the Low pass xover slope parameter was set at 48.
In the v2.2. it will not go higher as 36.

Same problem with the other subs parameters: subsonic slope is more limited then in v2.0

Hi,
I'll jump in here if you don't mind. The older 2.0 software did indeed show a maximum crossover slope of 48db. In actuality though, we discovered it was really 36db, so now in the new 2.2 software it is correctly identified as 36db. In your case the roll off is the same as before. Sorry for the confusion.
Curt

Thanks Curt for the explanation. Now I also understand better why it was a problem to store and reload the parameters in the software ;) :D

Does anyone know of a free program that I can use to create a sweep as the one the DD subs emit? Or maybe Velodyne has that sweep so one could download it?

If I should be able to calibrate my system for movies I need to have the sweep playing in the different spekers, including my two subs, in the same way as in a movie. At least I need the sweep in Left, Right and LFE. Then it will play in fronts and both subs, by using Meridian trifield I can get it to all speakers and I can adjust levels so more will come through the fronts than the rears - like in a standard movie.

I will place the DD-12 as the front sub and the Meridian D1500 as the rear sub, just have to fix a longer 75 ohm koax for the D1500...
Now I have found a program that can generate stereo sweeps (start/stop freq, duration) and I'm sure I can use my video/DVD creation programs to make a 5.1 DVD with sweeps in different channels that will work for my setup.

[For repetition: I have two subs. Both will play LFE. The front sub will also play managed bass from the front three speakers (they're set to small) and the rear sub will play managed bass from the rear speakers. I almost exclusively play multi-channel music and movies, CD's are played with Meridian Trifield making it "synthetic multi-channel" anyway.

My system is Meridian-based, with Room Correction (MRC) working at similar frequencies as Velodyne EQ but more focused on lowering reverberation times (standing waves) than "just" EQ. So I intend to run MRC "preliminary" on the system without the DD-12 to get it decently setup. Then add the DD-12 for better EQ, and finally run Meridian Room Correction again for the best performance from the system.

The Meridian Room Correction is good and detailed, but doesn't give the immediate feedback as the Velodyne EQ does. The best result sonically I have gotten sofar is to lower the rooms natural reverberation time ("T60") from 312ms to 185ms.]

Well, now I'm thinking of creating "realistic" multi-channel sweeps. As you know, the DD's output a stereo sweep that's perfect for calibrating a 2.1 system and decent for a 5.1 system (with small speakers) or a system with with multiple subs if they are master-slave. It will not work too good for my 5.2 system mostly because of its odd configuration. So I want to play a similar sweep, but from a DVD instead, with sound in the channels giving me a realistic calibration. So what's "realistic"?

A movie will mainly put some bass in the LFE channel and some in L/R, less in other channels but there may be. That usually doesn't matter too much, since it will be bass managed to the sub. I will need to create sweeps for my setup that puts reasonable amounts in the different channels, including the LFE channel (which both subs play). If I just would put the sweep in all channels, including the LFE, it would contain too much bass and not be realistic. A main problem is that "managed bass" is played differently from "LFE bass".

One idea is to create "jumping sweeps", one for each crossover I will try (it will probably be set somewhere between 58 and 65Hz). The sweep starts in the LFE channel (and at much lower volume in the other channels) and att the crossover frequency it's at full volume in L/R and reduced in rears. This is not uncomplicated...

Does the "Velodyne sweep" go from 10Hz to 200Hz, with a loop duration of 10 seconds - or what? I gues they have tried what should be good values and I see no reason why I shouldn't try to use exactly the same.

Ideas? Suggestions? Comments?

What was the difference between the F1800R and the F1800RII models?

Hi,
There was no F1800R. The first model of the new technology was the F-1800RII. That was followed by the FSR-18 (more watts) which was followed by the HGS-18.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
There was no F1800R. The first model of the new technology was the F-1800RII. That was followed by the FSR-18 (more watts) which was followed by the HGS-18.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,
Thanks for the quick reply. According to the Velodyne website, there was a F1800R

F-1800R HGS-15X, DD-15 or DD-18
F-1800RII HGS-15X, DD-15 or DD-18
F-1800X/R HGS-15X, DD-15 or DD-18

Was there a sub before the F1800RII? Was there ever a F1800?

It's as I stated. Website is incorrect. There were two different amps used in the F-1800RII, the early one's had 600 watts, the later had 1000 watts but they were both F-1800RII's. The FSR-18 was after the F-1800RII. If you need more clarification, call me. I also sent you a PM.
Curt (480) 595-7141

My ULD-15 (definitely over 20 years old, and playing beautifully every day for all those years) was eaten by its servo controller last week. The controller seems to have gone into something like a 1 Hz square wave mode and essentially made the cone repeatedly slam into the floor with the result that part of the surround is torn. So it looks like the servo is toast and the speaker is somewhat hurt. Is there something that can be done to repair or otherwise resurrect this unit?

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Curt

Curt,

I currently have a HGS-15 with a SMS-1 (with most current software).

I've been looking at getting a DD-18 and the only demo I could find did not impress me that much. It may have been set up poorly for all I know.

How would you describe the difference between the two systems??

Hi,
No easy answer here. You have a very flexible set-up now. If your total calculated cubic displacement is under 4000 cubic feet, it's doubtful you would notice much difference. The DD-18 has the capability of playing about 6db louder so you would have reserve output if needed. Another nice feature is the ability to tune the digital servo on the DD. I find the HGS and DD fifteens and eighteens to sound about the same. When I play deep pedal organ I prefer the eighteens. It certainly sounds like you were given a poor demo on the DD-18. IMHO it is the finest (Signature 1812 aside) subwoofer in the world.
Thanks, but how about a softball next time.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt,

Thanks for your honest opinion.

Anyone ever had this problem?

I have the DD-18. At random intervals (can be a few minutes or a few hours) a loud popping sound will come from the sub. The last time if happened the fuses blew. Doesn't matter what volume the sub is playing at. Other then that all functions work properly.......

I would just send the amp in to be checked but since the problem is intermittent, I am afraid the repair shop will say nothing is wrong with it........

Thanx in advance for the help........

Hi all. Thanks for providing this great forum.

I have a new MiniVee connected to the LFE output of a Yamaha HTR 5990. The other day in the midst of listening to an SACD source it began to emit an almost drumlike sound all on its own that had nothing to do with the source sound. It was not unlike a low volume "sputtering" sound, and would change in frequency slightly depending on whether or not I had the cable unhooked from either side. Turning the receiver off made no difference, nor did swapping connecting cables. Turning off the sub and then back on - no change - still the drum like sound regardless of a source input or not. Unplugging the sub then plugging it back in - no diff. I connected the sub I replaced the minivee for - an old powered Kenwood, to see if it was the receiver - nope - no problem.

So I forgot about it for a while, then maybe 6 hours later I tried it again - the problem disappeared. But then 2 days later - today, it began again right in the middle of watching some HD content with 5.1 sound. So I unplugged the sub for a few hours, returned, and it is fine again.

Whats going on?

Thanks for any help in advance.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

The power cord that came with my DD15 is about 2/3 the thickness of a pencil and is marked at 10A-125V. Is this the correct power cord for this sub? Shouldn"t a 15A-125V cord be used?

Hi,
The supplied power cord is correct and we've never had a performance issue with it. It's the same one we've used for years and on the previous HGS series. Many users want to use an aftermarket cable and you're certainly free to do so. The internal fuse is also 10 amp.
Thanks,
Curt

Thank you Curt.

Perhaps not a problem or issue but at Very Low volume levels, when set to autosensing, the amp seems to have a problem making up it's mind about whether to come on or not. At these times it makes a small popping sound both coming on and going off, which is does frequently within the space of even a minute. Seems to correlate with the rise and fall of the db level, which as I mentioned is Very low. Also at these times the light is always on. I have played music at levels even lower and the amp doesn't come on at all, that is, the light is off and there is no output from the sub. (I mean these are really low levels!)

To prevent a recurrence, I set autosensing to off in the setup menu. Now no worries, no problem, no popping noise.

Anybody else notice a similar pattern? If so, how did it turn out for you over time?

Hi,
Usually the problem is not enough input voltage. A couple of things to try are; 1) Use a "Y" into both inputs of the Velodyne, 2) Raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver and back off on the Velodyne volume to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
Usually the problem is not enough input voltage. A couple of things to try are; 1) Use a "Y" into both inputs of the Velodyne, 2) Raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver and back off on the Velodyne volume to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt


Thanks Curt!

After reading posts on this and other forums I bought an sms-1. I get the osd, test tones through the sub and mains at the appropriate times, sub plays normaly. the problem is I can't get a graph or any other response from the sms-1. The self eq will run tones till the end of time and never finish. Auto eq just runs tones- no graph, no sliders moving, no magic. Manual mode just gives me tones and a flat line at the bottom of the screen, I can move the sliders and still see no response. I can see the sweeps sweeping along the flat line, and if I blow into or tap on the mic, I'll get a response on the graph and it will disappear on the next sweep.
I turned the sub up till the windows shook- about 95 db on the rs meter. Just how loud are you guys playing these tones?
I've been playing phone tag with velodyne but finding me near a phone is rare. This looks like a defective mic but it just feels like a setting issue. I've powered off and unplugged, 890'ed, reset, etc. Anyone have this probllem?

This might sound dumb, but did you ensure you pressed the microphone XLR jack all the way into the SMS-1? The first time I used the system I had the same reaction (i.e., everything worked, no graph). Turned out I didn't push the jack in all the way (I thought it was in but it wasn't).

I've had the mic plugged and unplugged ( even tried both jacks on the unit) a number of times, but will pay special attention next time.

ducky,

Check to be sure that the "equalize" output is wired to your preamp/receiver. It's easy to connect it to the sub by mistake.

Check. EQ out is to preamp via vcr line in.

Can't get 2.2.0 Update Software to work[U].

I own two DD-15’s. For some mysterious reason I have been unable to update either subwoofer from Software Version 2.0 to 2.2.0. What is really weird is that I tried using the same computer and mouse extension cord as I used last year to update both subs from Version 1.6 to 2.0 successfully. I set the amber light correctly. The update software says it is connecting and the progress bar goes across but the amber light does not blink as it is supposed to and the software is not updated per the screen. After it would not work, I tried the following:

Bought a brand new mouse extension cable and swapped it out.
Tried both serial ports COM 1 and COM 2.
Downloaded the update software from the Velodyne site 3 times.
Tried a second computer with all of the above.

It also strikes me as odd that the first screen of the Update reads “Welcome to Digital Drive Version 2.2.0 Update Utility” but the second screen of the update reads “Velodyne Digital Drive Software Update 1.0, Copyright © 2003”. I would have expected the second screen to read “. . . Software Update 2.0 or 2.2 and “Copyright © 2006”, but what do I know.

What am I doing wrong?

Mighty frustrated!

Chris Cargen

Hello,

I'm shopping for a subwoofer for my fairly nice AV system. The rest of my speakers are Paradigm Reference (studio 100's for front l/r), I have a Denon 4306 acting as a pre/pro and an Outlaw 7700 7x200W amp.

I'm pretty sure I'd like to get a servo controlled amp. I think pretty much that narrows the field down to Paradigm Servo-15 or Velodyne DD or HGSX series. Anyone know of any others?

I'm not sure if I need or want a calibration system built into the sub. To me, the proper place for bass management and auto equalization systems is either in a separate unit or built into the prepro. There are a lot of good reasons for it to be built into the prepro and many of the prepros are now doing it. I've not tried the one built into my new Denon yet but it does have one. Since all the speakers (including the sub) should be calibrated together (in my opinion), it seems like having the sub calibrate itself is not the best way.

What do you guys think?

Is it really such a good idea to build these cal features into the sub like on the DD series? Or is that function better located in the prepro?

How do you think the version in the Denon 4306 compares to the one built into the DD series subs? Is there some advantage to using the DD cal?

How does the DD cal compare to that of the SMS-1?

Which sub should I buy? I don't mind dropping a few $K but I don't want to overspend on the sub compared to the rest of my system.

It seems like the HGSX series might actually be better than the DD series for systems that want to do their bass management outside the sub (or highly equivalent for much less money). While the DD does have an upgraded servo system, it looks like many of the features are the same. Other than the integrated cal setup, how does the DD compare to the HGSX?

Thanks,
Dan

Hello all, I started a thread earlier about setting up levels on multiple subs and someone recommended a different way I should hook up my subs...I have been using all 3 of my subs hooked up to the single sub-out on my AVR and was told that maybe hooking up 1 sub to the main/front speakers and 1 to the center speaker via the speaker-level inputs and set to LARGE in the AVR then 1 sub running off of the sub-out should work good. I was thinking that maybe this doesnt sound like a bad idea since only 1 sub out of the 3 is any good. These are my subs:
1) Velodyne CHT10...(best of the 3)
2) Polkpsw303...overall frequency response=28hz-200hz, -3db response=35hz-160hz...8in long throw driver
3) Polkpsw202...overall frequency response=35hz-200hz, -3db response=40hz-180hz...10in long throw driver
I am using a OnkyoTxsr800 100watt by 7 THX select AVR. My question is what subwoofer do I use for each hookup and what the people(Curt or Bruce) at Velodyne think about this hookup method considering I am using a VelodyneCHT10? :confused: I have quite alot of space in my house due to open areas leading to different rooms and would love to get the DD18 and use that by itself but my funds wont allow that right now unfortunately. :(

Thanks for your help,
Brian

I'm not sure if I need or want a calibration system built into the sub. To me, the proper place for bass management and auto equalization systems is either in a separate unit or built into the prepro. There are a lot of good reasons for it to be built into the prepro and many of the prepros are now doing it. I've not tried the one built into my new Denon yet but it does have one. Since all the speakers (including the sub) should be calibrated together (in my opinion), it seems like having the sub calibrate itself is not the best way.

What do you guys think?
My personal experience was that the SMS-1 with the Servo-15 did a better job than did the auto-EQ on the Denon 4806. My room, my system, my ears, of course.

Kal

Hi,
The SMS-1 can do everything the DD controller can do except fine tune the servo as to output vs distortion. The DD series are the only subwoofers, to my knowledge, with a digitally controlled servo. The big Velodyne advantage is we provide 8 bars (totally adjustable as to frequency and que between 15-110hz) of eq just in the bass frequencies. The receivers have to spread their bars across the total spectrum which in most cases limits the bass to a couple. It is normally the bass frequencies which need the most attention.
Most important is selecting the proper size subwoofer (or subwoofers) for the area. We provide help in selections at our website; www.velodyne.com, "which product" and then "subwoofer recommendations". Any questions, feel free to call for support or opinions.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Velodyne SPL-1500R or DD-15 vs. Paradigm Servo-15

I'm new to the avs forum. Can anyone give me any information to help me decide between the 3 above subs? Curt at Velodyne has been awesome and has given me a huge amount of information. I have not listened to the 3 subs. in the same day for comparison. (Not possible where I live.) Any pro's and con's would be great from anyone. I'm leaning towards the SPL-1500R because of price and I know of 2 DD-18's that have had the amp replaced under warranty. Also, I'm not the world's biggest Paradigm fan. Any input would be appreciated. HELP!

THANKS.

Hey BRO,

Just my two cents worth. After much, much, research, I purchased an HGS 15x. Check out the review on Audioholics. Considered the SPL 15R, but decided to go for the High Gain Servo. The HGS 18 is still considered one of the finest subs ever made, however, I don't need something that big. The Paradigm has a good reputation, but to me, it's just a retread of technology that originated with Velodyne. GOOD LUCK!

I was told by 2 sources that the HGS 15 / x is not going to be produced any longer. The suggested replacement was the SPL-1500R. The HGS 15X was my first choice.

Haven't heard that one. I'm sure Curt or Bruce can confirm or deny it. The HGS and SPL are different animals though.

Has anyone else noticed that when running a self-EQ (sub only) on your subwoofer it doesn't roll off the low end and it plays louder than when you run an auto-EQ or manual-EQ?

Is the flatter low-end response simply the result of the volume appearing to be louder, or is this the result of some subsonic filter in the receiver (Marantz SR8200) cutting off the very low end of the subwoofer output?

Note, the volume setting on the subwoofer was not touched, nor was the volume changed on the SMS-1 (it was kept at a value of 15 for all modes (self-EQ, Auto-EQ, and manual-EQ)), however the output registered higher on the display output from the SMS-1 when running the self-EQ, and as I noted above, the output was not rolled off but rather was pretty flat across the entire low-end spectrum that the SMS-1 displays on the screen (down to 15 Hz.).

Any ideas as to why this might occur? Is the SMS-1 outputting a louder signal (even though the volume setting is the same) when it runs a self-EQ versus going through the receiver when doing it via auto-EQ or manual-EQ, and is this louder signal the reason why the very bottom end does not drop off?

Most articles I've read concerning how to set the phase correctly when using the SMS-1 say to adjust for the flattest response at the crossover point, or for the cleanest transition at the crossover point, which in most cases would be 80 Hz., however, isn't the whole point of getting the phase properly adjusted to get your subwoofer and main speakers properly "timed" so they are not cancelling out each other?

Shouldn't you adjust the phase control to give you the flattest response across the entire spectrum below AND at the crossover point? I've noticed that the phase adjustment can introduce some deep cuts in the below 80Hz. response, as well as introduce some large peaks. Also, whether I run my speakers (Klipsch RF-7s) at LARGE and in mixed mode output (both the sub and front L/R speakers produce the low end bass) versus running them at SMALL where they are rolled off and all low end content is fed to the subwoofer, has a direct result on the flattest response, and thus what I believe to be the proper phase adjustment.

Example: Running all speakers at SMALL, flattest response output from the SMS-1 display graph before any EQ applied, phase = 45 (positive). Running front L/R at Large and sub set to mixed, flattest response output from the SMS-1 display graph before any EQ applied, phase = 165 (negative).

Am I correct in that the phase control should be used to give the flattest overall response and not just try to "optimize" the crossover setting?

Hi all, great thread hope I can get advice on this problem. I bought a ct 120 in late '90s from CC and love it. I took the speaker out (yes I'm stupid) and accidently touched the 2 speaker wires. The sub clicked off. I have tried 100 times to reset , changed the fuse with out success. Any other things I can check? if not where can I get it repaired near knoxville, Tn. I do not want a new sub, I love this old Ct 120.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851 for repair information. Parts and service are available on this model.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks for your fast reply Curt, I have contacted them.

Curt, any input on the questions I posted above regarding the SMS-1?

The 1812 seems like an interesting concept with it's dual driver config. but the only published test measurements I could find were AV Talk's 09/05 tests where they reported cancellation issues between the two drivers. I'm wondering if this is an acknowledged "issue" with the 1812.

Would Velodyne care to comment on this report?

Curt, any input on the questions I posted above regarding the SMS-1?

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

I have a pair of SPL 1200 in a 5.1 setup. How can I run the setup on both subs simultaneously for proper eq. I set up the mics and try as I may, I can not get both to start at the same time which means each is outputting a different frequency during eq. One is on the left and the other is on the right just below my front mains. How can I get a proper calibration for both in use at the same time? Right now I just run the setup eq on one at the time and then use the system.

I just picked up an F-1800 R ll which looks in really good condition, but it blows fuses (with a very bright flash) I noticed the dark disc capacitor next to the fuse also managed to get quite hot in the time it took to blow the fuse (very fast) I unplugged the Amplifier and removed from the sub and tried again, it still blows fuses.

Any suggestions? also the Amp has two wires ( labelled Black and White) coming off the board near the power supply, are these the primary inputs to the speaker itself?

I ask this because I'd like to test the driver and see if it works - is there a way to do that - I was thinking about connecting some speaker cables upto those leads I just mentioned ( am I scaring anyone?)

This is really a nice looking unit, but i would also quite like it to be nice sounding..

Any suggestions for power supply / Amp repair?

Thanks

john

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. The amp will need work. We rarely have driver problems.
Curt

The 1812 seems like an interesting concept with it's dual driver config. but the only published test measurements I could find were AV Talk's 09/05 tests where they reported cancellation issues between the two drivers. I'm wondering if this is an acknowledged "issue" with the 1812.

Would Velodyne care to comment on this report?

Hi,
IMHO the 1812 is the best subwoofer in the world. BTW it is far from the most expensive. It is both a piece of art and a work of passion. It certainly belongs in the Audio Hall of Fame. It's size, weight and price make it a somewhat limited item. Interestingly we have sold several in pairs for some ultimate high end systems. Since it uses two drivers it should normally be used where the sub will play up to near 80hz or above. When augmenting full range speakers with subs, say below 50 hz you would be better served with a pair of DD-18's.
The crossover cancellation issue you mentioned in the review, was addressed and fixed in software release 2.2.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
IMHO the 1812 is the best subwoofer in the world. BTW it is far from the most expensive. It is both a piece of art and a work of passion. It certainly belongs in the Audio Hall of Fame. It's size, weight and price make it a somewhat limited item. Interestingly we have sold several in pairs for some ultimate high end systems. Since it uses two drivers it should normally be used where the sub will play up to near 80hz or above. When augmenting full range speakers with subs, say below 50 hz you would be better served with a pair of DD-18's.
The crossover cancellation issue you mentioned in the review, was addressed and fixed in software release 2.2.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the info Curt, guess I'll have to start saving my shekels. ;)

Yes, perfect.
Curt

Hello,
I'd like to know if velodyne offers a sub with a voltage switch so that it can operate with either 110 or 220 volts current. I'm getting ready to retire in Argentina and although it will pain me greatly to part with my HGS18 it will have to happen since size will also be an issue there.
Thanks
Helier

I am interested in purchasing a used Velodyne HGS 15. However, I've read some reviews from users that indicate that the "older" HGS10 through HGS15 will inevitably start to pop and then completely fail. Is this a common problem with the HGS series? Do I need to worry?

Also, what is the diff. between the HGS and an HGS MKII.

Thank you,

Bob

which DD for a room of 3000 cubic feet? (no openings to other rooms)

Hi,
The DD-12 or the DD-15. The DD-12 would be operating near it's maximum capability. If it's primarily home theater, go for the 15 for sure. Bigger is better.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Ok, for you guys with WAF problems, get this... Friday was my birthday, I came home from work and sitting in my family room was a brand new DD-15 in cherry! My wife purchased it for me, completely surprised me and she had it delivered and installed. WOW! I have one cool wife!

On the down side, i'm having a problem. The DD-15 came with version 2.2 and a manufacturing date of May 31st (I live only a few miles from Morgan Hill). During the frequency sweep on the EQ-graph page, the sub does not output any sound at all. The strange thing is when I do a 3-2-1 auto-EQ from the main menu, it does its thing and properly outputs the frequency sweep. Also, it outputs the sweep out of the RCA jacks to my processor correctly. Yet, the sub refuses to output any sound from the EQ-graph page. And no, the sub is not MUTED and the mic works fine. I tried everything, I played with the volume, mute, even reset to factory defaults (8-9-0) and no luck. Other than that, the sub plays fine.

Any ideas? Do i have a bad sub?

Hi,
I sent you a PM with things to try. Otherwise we may need to talk on Monday.
Curt

Just to share with others that may have the same confusion...

My sub works fine. The confusion was that i was expecting the frequency sweep to play internally like it does when you do a 3-2-1 self-EQ (i.e. without needing to connect to the processor and back via LFE).

Thanks Curt.

Glad to hear it.
Enjoy!
Curt

I'm shopping for a sub in the $800-1200 range. There seem to be a number of Velodyne subs in this price range. 75% HT, 25% music, mostly jazz. The music, however, is important to me, and most of the movies I watch do not have serious bass. I like how Velodynes tend to be smaller than others. Since this probably going in a cabinent, size is an issue, although I might be able to place it outside--size still matters.

Front firing and seald is a must. Still, there seem to be many Velos that fit the bill. Any suggestions?

These seem to be more or less in my price range:
HGS-10x
SPL1000R
Velodyne - SPL800R

Hi,
You left out the most important item. I would need cubic displacement of the total room size including all open areas. See www.velodyne.com, "which product", then "subwoofer recommendations". It may be that none of your choices will be adequate for the area.
Thanks,
Curt

all three choices are appropriate for the room

Hi,
Then my personal choice would be the SPL-1000R.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I guess the real question is what is the difference between the HGS and SPL

Hi,
Sonically I find them similar. The SPL has a little more output and with DSP you have a nice auto-eq along with a flexible remote for presets, volume, etc. It's a newer product and my choice in a small high-output sub for HT/Music combination systems, unless you want to move to the DD series.
Thanks,
Curt

I have tried the SMS-1 upgrade, and followed the directions exactly (including turning unit on with both the up and down volume buttons pressed). The upgrade window said everything finished correctly, yet nothing changes, I still only have a subsonic filter that goes down to 15Hz, not 5Hz. What is happening? Do I need to perform a reset on the SMS-1? I wouldn't think so as the instructions don't say to do this. Plus I don't want to lose my settings.

Help,
DB

DB,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Curt,

A question about the online velodyne subwoofer recommendation. I put in 3000cf room size and that the appearance are not a key concern. It comes back with 12recommendations ranging from the 1812 to the DLS-4000R. Is this working correct?

Hi,
Yes it is correct and you'll notice an explanation with each product. We don't limit you to a price so it gave you many choices. 3000 cubic feet is a size where many of the products may be utilized. Personally I would avoid the 10" woofer recommendations in that category as they will be working at or near maximum much of the time, so cheat on the larger side.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
Sonically I find them similar. The SPL has a little more output and with DSP you have a nice auto-eq along with a flexible remote for presets, volume, etc. It's a newer product and my choice in a small high-output sub for HT/Music combination systems, unless you want to move to the DD series.
Thanks,
Curt

Makes sense.

Why would I want to move t the DD series (besides quality, duh)? I gag at $2,000 instead of $1,000 (approximately). Is the difference that great? I'm sure I could go and listen.

Thank you Curt.

Mitch

Hi,
Yes it is correct and you'll notice an explanation with each product. We don't limit you to a price so it gave you many choices. 3000 cubic feet is a size where many of the products may be utilized. Personally I would avoid the 10" woofer recommendations in that category as they will be working at or near maximum much of the time, so cheat on the larger side.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks. I went with the DD15 as I'm just a little over 3000cf and am hoping that with the room treatments I have and the onboard EQ, I should be able to get away with a preamp that doens't have any onboard EQ.

Good Choice!!
Curt

Hi Curt. Had a quick question for you.

When I use preset 6 on the SMS to defeat the eq, and assuming everything is set up as it was before the SMS was in my system, will the sub be just like it was before the SMS was in the loop? I have read a few posts where people claim that once they put the SMS inbetween the sub and processor that it reduced the sub output and this is with no eq or anything. Is this true, or will the sub perform just like it would if there was no SMS?

hi curt,

some say that people that prefer the chest thump in watching movies shouldn't EQ the frequency response very flat ... so, which frequencies do I add gain to, to get the kick in the chest feeling.

ribbit,

I read over in another forum that the chest thump frequency is around 35 hz, which coincides with the program 1 on the SMS-1. Program 1 also runs the sub range higher than flat relative to the other speakers.

I'm also having problems finding a "curve" that I like. If anything, I don't believe flat really works all that well. Totally flat with the other speakers is just not enough. Flat 5 db hotter than the other speakers, gets you most of the way there, but without the chest thump you mentioned. Program 1 gets the chest thump but some the frequencies between 35 and 80 seem bloated. When I get a chance, I'll try 5 dbs hotter overall with a bump at 35 hz that sums what program 1 does.

I was looking at the DLS4000R and the DPS12...

IS there any difference between the two as it is hard to tell....

JimP, pls share your findings after your experiment.

DarkKnight, the DLS4000R has a remote which is incredibly useful ... especially for those who like to adjust the volume in the middle of the movie.

it also looks a whole lot better IMO.

it also has a tiny bit bigger enclosure (which helps in the performance a teeny tiny bit)

the DPS might not have a 4 way phase selector (im not sure about this one)

Hmmmm, I figured the remote would come into play. I am looking at about $575 shipped on it ? What do you guys think ?

The DPS I could get for about $50 less (shipped). Worth the extra scratch ? Or is it symantics ?

The specs make it hard to tell.

(hence my coming to the experts.)

Hi,
The ability to make volume and other changes from listening position (via remote) is certainly worth the small price difference. They share the same amp and woofer so specs are the same.
Curt

for 50 bucks I would most certainly get the remote. FYI, I have the DLS-5000R ... I also have a subwoofer without a remote, and the fact that I have to stand to make adjustments suck.

DO they both emplpoy the same DLS system ?

If you mean do they both employ the same DSP (digital signal processing), the answer is yes. Same computer chip. The difference is the remote and cosmetics of the enclosure.
Curt

maybe he is asking about the Distortion Limiting System

Hi,
They are idenical except for the remote and cosmetics!
Curt

Hi,
They are idenical except for the remote and cosmetics!
Curt

hehe :D the webpage write up isn't clear

THe webpage write up is seems to tout the 4000 more. More stats etc. Why is that ? Is the cabinet finsh equal ?

SOmeone mentioned the set up playing into the sound production. How true is this ?

Hi,
The cabinet is equal. I don't understand your last sentence. I suggest you give me a call.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Ok, I understand now. Thanks for takinig my call Curt.

Now let me measure and make sure I am 3000 or under !

Thanks for the call.
Curt

Hello Bruce and Curt...im hoping you might be able to help me.

I bought a DLS-5000r about 4 months ago and just started using it finally when construciton finished in my theater about 3 weeks ago.

Here is my issues which im copying and pasting here from another thread I started before i heard about this one.

I have a VElo Dlsr-5000 and it works flawless but during quiet scenes im noticing a knocking type noise every 20 seconds or so, i think its coming on and off perhaps? Its annoying as hell.

Think its a reciever issue or a Sub issue? Im using a Yamaha 2600

Anyone ever get this problem?

Ive pretty much figured out WHAT it is but cant figure out why. The Sub signal is being turned OFF when the sub is not needed, ie voice only scenes. Then as soon as its needed its immediately there. Its the sound of it going OFF and ON is what im hearing.


Ever heard of this issue? I bought the extended warranty on it through Frys Electronics but they said they would need my sub for 8-10 weeks! I just want to get this fixed. My Sub cable was my first thought but its been working fine. It is a long one though at 50ft.

Hi,
Try a "Y" splitter into both inputs of the sub and raise the volume in you receiver for the subwoofer jack to about three fourths of the way up. Back off on the sub's volume to compensate. Your sub has a Velodyne warranty and you would only return the amp section if repairs are needed and turn around should be 2-3 weeks.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Try a "Y" splitter into both inputs of the sub and raise the volume in you receiver for the subwoofer jack to about three fourths of the way up. Back off on the sub's volume to compensate. Your sub has a Velodyne warranty and you would only return the amp section if repairs are needed and turn around should be 2-3 weeks.
Curt (480) 595-7141


Got the Y splitter already (tried it both ways actually) and have the sub volume up in reciever already and down via the remote it came with, still the same issue.

I noticed you in the 480 area code. Im in Gilbert myself. Im off to Boston and will check back to this thread when Ig et back this weekend.

Are you saying I should take the amp out myself?? Would'nt that voide the warranty?

The thing about this amp is that it sounds STELLAR! Just watched Godzilla. But as soon as the bass scens are down and its time for voice, you can hear that little speaker pop that it turns off.

Where would you take it if you were me Curt?

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Help me Curt!

Or anyone else!

Just got word from the online retailer that I ordered my HGS 15x from, that it has been discontinued, and replaced by the SPL 15R. The HGS 15x was THX Ultra 2 certified, the SPL 15R is not, that I know of. 1250 watts vs 1000 watts, respectively. SPL does not have a true High Gain Servo.

Does the SPL 15R equal the HGS 15x in terms of performance?

It took me a long time and a lot of research to wind up with the HGS as my choice, and this has really thrown me a curve.

My listening environment is a living room of 14x17x8 with one 8 foot opening to dining/kitchen area, and one opening to hallway. My other equipment is a Denon AVR 5803 (170x7, x5 in my case), GR Research A/V series speakers. 90/10 Movies to Music. Very limited in placement.

Hi,
As I have said before I find the SPL-1500R to be sonically about the same. The HGS series were in the product line for many, many years and have been replaced by both the DD series and the SPL's. The DD's do have the High Gain Servo system in an improved digital design. The SPL line has greatly benefited from "trickle down technology" both from the HGS and DD series. They offer maximum performance in a very compact size. We have designed the amp with a multi-stage circuitry to emulate servo performance. In designing the new SPL-1500R we wanted to provide the performance advantage of a 15" driver in a very compact enclosure that would excel in both music and H/T applications. I have been very pleased with the performance of my new SPL-1500R.
Thanks,
Curt

Perhaps not a problem or issue but at Very Low volume levels, when set to autosensing, the amp seems to have a problem making up it's mind about whether to come on or not. At these times it makes a small popping sound both coming on and going off, which is does frequently within the space of even a minute. Seems to correlate with the rise and fall of the db level, which as I mentioned is Very low. Also at these times the light is always on. I have played music at levels even lower and the amp doesn't come on at all, that is, the light is off and there is no output from the sub. (I mean these are really low levels!)

To prevent a recurrence, I set autosensing to off in the setup menu. Now no worries, no problem, no popping noise.

Anybody else notice a similar pattern? If so, how did it turn out for you over time?

Scrapdiggs,

I believe I had the same issue, (see my quote of myself above). Curt may already have helped you solve the problem and it is therefore unlikely that he did not mention this but if Autosensing is on, try turning it off. Since I turned it off in my setup, I have had no issues with the amp, (except that it sounds great). Hope yours turns out as well.

Scrapdiggs,

I believe I had the same issue, (see my quote of myself above). Curt may already have helped you solve the problem and it is therefore unlikely that he did not mention this but if Autosensing is on, try turning it off. Since I turned it off in my setup, I have had no issues with the amp, (except that it sounds great). Hope yours turns out as well.


Turning off the auto sensing did not help it unfortunately. I will try a couple of other things when i get back home.

Is it true the Velodyne HGS-15x has been discontinued? If so, will velodyne
be blowing any remaining inventory out the door at a discount?

Hi,
Yes it's true. Since there are none left I don't see the blow-out happening.
Curt

Hi,
Yes it's true. Since there are none left I don't see the blow-out happening.
Curt

Do you know if any of your authorized dealers still have stock?

Hi,
Unfortunately we have no way of tracking that. I will certainly keep an ear and eye out for you.
Curt

Hi,
Unfortunately we have no way of tracking that. I will certainly keep an ear and eye out for you.
Curt

Thanks!

Do you know if any of your authorized dealers still have stock?
OneCall (http://www.onecall.com/ProductDetails.aspx?sHist=12-161&menu=true&id=22482) shows them in stock for $1999.
ListenUp (http://www.listenup.com/servlet/UpdateEngine/?FUELAP_SITEDBID=SITE%5F%2D66&FUELAP_OP=FUELOP_NewScreen&PAGE_ID=LUPAGE%5F60134&DP_ID=LISTENUP%5FDP%5F21209418&SECTION_ID=LUPAGE%5F60134&FUELAP_TEMPLATENAME=lu%5Fproduct&) has them on the site, but no status.

Thanks for feedback.
Curt

OneCall (http://www.onecall.com/ProductDetails.aspx?sHist=12-161&menu=true&id=22482) shows them in stock for $1999.
ListenUp (http://www.listenup.com/servlet/UpdateEngine/?FUELAP_SITEDBID=SITE%5F%2D66&FUELAP_OP=FUELOP_NewScreen&PAGE_ID=LUPAGE%5F60134&DP_ID=LISTENUP%5FDP%5F21209418&SECTION_ID=LUPAGE%5F60134&FUELAP_TEMPLATENAME=lu%5Fproduct&) has them on the site, but no status.

Thanks I will call them tomorrow and see how much I can steal one for...

I have one now and have been wanting to get another one...

Hi,
The DD-12 or the DD-15. The DD-12 would be operating near it's maximum capability. If it's primarily home theater, go for the 15 for sure. Bigger is better.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

3000 cu. ft. = DD15

what extra benefits do I get if I go for the 18? or is it an example of a very high diminishing return already?

Hi,
Potentially the response would be a little deeper, a little cleaner and lots more reserve. I would use the DD-18 in a 3000 cubic feet. It's certainly not overkill.
Curt

I've read that bigger drivers (15" and above) are NO "slower" than the 12" and below counterparts ...
but a local dealer (non-velodyne seller) keeps telling me that the reason I don't feel the chest thump is because I have a 15" sub. he says I should get a 12" sub ... because it is "faster". usually, that conversation ends right when I tell him I also have a 12" sub in the room.

I would just like confirmation either way if there is truth to this slow and fast driver thing.

Hi,
No truth, but my saying so isn't going to change minds. One could even argue that the larger driver making a much shorter excursion has the "speed" advantage". It's about moving air and having the required mass (woofer cone) to do so. As I said many times before most installations are "undersub'd". Bigger is better.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
No truth, but my saying so isn't going to change minds. One could even argue that the larger driver making a much shorter excursion has the "speed" advantage". It's about moving air and having the required mass (woofer cone) to do so. As I said many times before most installations are "undersub'd". Bigger is better.
Curt (480) 595-7141
Yeah, well, it depends on your concept of 'speed.' The reduced displacement of a larger diaphragm means that it NEEDS less velocity to cover less excursion with each cycle than does a smaller diaphragm. Does it respond quicker? That depends on the motor and the mass, of course.

Overall, I think that most people say 'fast/slow' when they are really talking about damping issues.

Kal

I tend to agree.
BTW, I'm leaving on a business trip today and will have limited availability to a computer so be patient or help each other out. Back next week.
Curt (curt@velodyne.com)

I've read that bigger drivers (15" and above) are NO "slower" than the 12" and below counterparts ...
but a local dealer (non-velodyne seller) keeps telling me that the reason I don't feel the chest thump is because I have a 15" sub. he says I should get a 12" sub ... because it is "faster". usually, that conversation ends right when I tell him I also have a 12" sub in the room.

I would just like confirmation either way if there is truth to this slow and fast driver thing.


He should come see how my DLS-5000r rocks my theater. Pretty sure its a 15".

just need to get this damn amp replaced now.

Can someone tell me if I unplug my SMS, take it upstairs, download the new 2.12 software, take back downstairs, replug in everything, will the SMS save my old settings?

Toe,

It retained my old settings when I performed the procedure you mentioned.

The SMS-1 and DD series sub's use the same microphone. The mic is billed as "calibrated". I assume this means there is a correction factor for it's natural roll-off at the frequency extremes. Does anyone know if each mic is calibrated individually for the product it is paired with, or does Velodyne use a standard correction factor for all the mic's. If the later, how much variablity is there between mic's? Also, how stable is this calibration over time? If the mic is used frequently and/or at high volume, does the sensitivity at the frequency extremes change?

My primary concern is this: If my SMS-1 curve shows a roll-off at the lower end, how much of the roll-off can be attributed to the mic? None?... A little bit?... Potentially, a lot?

Thanks.

Craig

Great! Thanks for the help.

Craig,

I purchased the identical mic a year before I got my SMS-1. That mic I sent off and had it calibrated (which is a misnomer as they don't do anything to the mic, but send you a diskette with the calibration corrections that you download into your computer when you're running a frequency analysis software program.

I used both mics on Room Equalizer Wizard and found that they were identical for the subwoofer range. Looking at the graph that came with the mic calibration indicated that there was at the most 1/2 to 1/3 db variation from flat from around 120 hz on down. That's so little that I don't think that it matters. Where you will run into trouble is in using the mic without a calibration file for frequency analysis at higher frequencies. Major corrections are needed higher up. :eek:

I have a Velo HGS 10 that has served me well since '98 but it now resides in my dedicated HT which is a larger space and sits on carpet over concrete and just does not put out as much as it did in our old greatroom, on a subfloor over a basement. Is there anything I can do to increase output or is this sub too little in this space. It is hard to calibrate due to the fact my receiver does not have test tones for LFE. Short of buying the SMS-1, what can I do?

Craig,

I purchased the identical mic a year before I got my SMS-1. That mic I sent off and had it calibrated (which is a misnomer as they don't do anything to the mic, but send you a diskette with the calibration corrections that you download into your computer when you're running a frequency analysis software program.

I used both mics on Room Equalizer Wizard and found that they were identical for the subwoofer range. Looking at the graph that came with the mic calibration indicated that there was at the most 1/2 to 1/3 db variation from flat from around 120 hz on down. That's so little that I don't think that it matters. Where you will run into trouble is in using the mic without a calibration file for frequency analysis at higher frequencies. Major corrections are needed higher up. :eek:

Thanks JimP. I assume this means it's flat down to 15 Hz? Is it a special mic primarily for LF's? Who makes it and is it possible to send the SMS-1 mic in to them for calibration, i.e., can they send you a file to download to the SMS-1 with correction factors?

Craig

My Sub volume was all the way down in Reciever...i turned it 2/3 way up as Curt reccomended and I think my dls5000 is back in perfect order

Seeing how the DD series has been out for some time now, will there be an update in the near future?

Seeing how the DD series has been out for some time now, will there be an update in the near future?

I doubt it, the last update was only a month ago.

Seeing how the DD series has been out for some time now, will there be an update in the near future?

Hi Everyone,

I should clarify. By update I don't mean software but a hardware update. Possibly a new series that incorporates newer materials, more amplfier power, new technologies etc.

Hi,
There are no planned replacement or major hardware changes for the the DD series. To us this is a relatively new product which can be updated with software. It is 'state of the art' with the latest technology and more than adequate power.
Curt

I just got off the phone with Sound Advise service department and they advised me that Velodyne no longer has the parts needed to repair my FSR-15. I just wanted to confirm that this may be true. It's hard to believe that parts are not availabe for a very expensive sub that is only nine years old.

Thanks.........

I sent you a PM.
Curt

Some questions:

Just got a DLS4000R. Thanks Curt for the Info.

Ok:
As this sub only has a button to raise the volume (or lower) how can I tell where we are with the level ?

The only indicator is a flashing light.

Any ideas ?

Also, I have a single connection going into the LFE input on the sub. Does it require both connections to be made ? (I have heard conflicting reports).

And lastly... How good are the presets (movies, Games, etc) on the unit? Should they be used ? This unit is only going to be used for movies in my HT.

Any help is deeply appreciated.

does it have buttons on it? if so 1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1 will set it back to factory volume.

Some questions:

Just got a DLS4000R. Thanks Curt for the Info.

Ok:
As this sub only has a button to raise the volume (or lower) how can I tell where we are with the level ?

The only indicator is a flashing light.

Any ideas ?

Also, I have a single connection going into the LFE input on the sub. Does it require both connections to be made ? (I have heard conflicting reports).

And lastly... How good are the presets (movies, Games, etc) on the unit? Should they be used ? This unit is only going to be used for movies in my HT.

Any help is deeply appreciated.

Hi,
I PM'd you.
Curt

Bruce / Curt:
Here is my setup, HERE (http://ca.geocities.com/pixelm@rogers.com/)
please have a look at my website
I have curently placed an order on DD12,
Would DD10 be suficient for my room?
Do you know if this sub will be too big for my room?
Do you know where should it be placed?
I'm Thinking of placing it between 2 sofas pointing it towards the side of the room
Thank you
BTW I have to wait 7 days for it is coming from Vancouver,
No Toronto stock :(
Thank you
Matt

Hi,
A DD-12 will be fine and no it's not too large. You should experiment with placement utilizing the available choices. In general subs like boundaries such as corners or against the wall. Avoid placing near any openings. The DD's do offer more placement flexibility.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
A DD-12 will be fine and no it's not too large. You should experiment with placement utilizing the available choices. In general subs like boundaries such as corners or against the wall. Avoid placing near any openings. The DD's do offer more placement flexibility.
Thanks,
Curt
Thank you

Hello , I've had my DLS-5000R for quite some time now in my very small room as you can see in the pics. I've been wondering if I moved it out of the painted cinderblock enclosure if it would sound better? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Behind my sitting position is my Rears and DLS-5000R. The only open spot I have is where the computer case and bookshelf on the right are.

My listening position will be about next to my Gateway on the right with about 2 people. The wall up front will be where my 32" LCD will be. (Center channel and surrounds haven't come in yet) I'll edit my post with pics soon.


http://img192.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture1987ja.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture1996xk.jpg

My setup is very odd, help is appreciated. :)

Hi,
Only one way to tell, try it and see. The recessed or open area to the left could be an issue. In general, subs like boundaries. In a small area you really should try different locations.
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

Alright, thanks for the quick response curt.

EDIT: What's the best preset for lowest frequency response in your opinion?

Hi,
On the DLS-5000R, preset #1 (movies), there is a 4db boost at 37 hz and volume is up 8db. So for movie type material that is probably your best bet. If you wanted flat response that may go a little deeper (inaudible) with a leaner sound use preset #3 (classical/jazz). When listening to music I usually use #3 and switch to #1 for movies.
Curt

Hi

I'm hoping this is the right place to be posting this....if it's not, please let me know where I should.

Anyway, I recently acquired a HGS-10 Subwoofer with the hope that I could repair it. When I plug in the sub, it appears to do nothing.... however as soon as I adjust the volume, the woofer goes nuts... EXTREEMLY loud rattling... as though it was going beyond full excursion. I should note that the amp plate was out of the sub for testing... The sub was not connected to a reciever, only the ac outlet. I have found online that a common problem is the acceleratormeter is a common problem...what do I look for? Could it be the volume control itself? Also, how do I know which way the sub wires go on the amp board... the sub has the usual red and black, but the board is not labeled + or -

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Snype32

Hi,
No this is not a forum to help you repair a Velodyne servo subwoofer. By unsealing the sub you would make it go crazy. It can not be tested in that manner. I suggest you call Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Quick question, is the mesh on the DLS-5000R removable? (non-permanently, like the CHT-15?)

After researching and waiting for some time, last Nov I got my DD 18 and it an amazing sub. I have been very please with the performance.

Recently I noticed that it is making a static random noise. The sound is almost like soft version a sound of electric guitar cord that is unplugged and you touch the contact, and sometimes a gurgling sound. It is soft (not loud) but is very noticeable. Initially the noise comes and goes but now is present at all times.

I reset my parameters, I changed my source (even makes this distortion while not connected to signal source), I changed my power source, and still picks up this noise.

Please advise what can be done to restore my sub.

Thanks

Hi,

I just recently aquired some JBL 250TI which are supposed to be flat to 30 hz Each speaker has a 14"woofer. I currently have a spl1200r for a sub, couple of questions please?

Better to replace w/1500r or add 2nd 1200r? There was a question about this set up earlier I didn't see the answer...price comes out similar after selling and buying again, either way not the deciding factor (ideally 2 1500r but that ain't happening :) ) size does matter here, small

I believe your recomendation for set up would be set to fronts to small so I can xover from 40-60(4o is lowest available in Sony receiver) to help the amps (2 adcom 555 bridged to 400 each speaker) per taste, should there be an overlap though? the other side is full range(large) and the sub crossed to taste?

the room is 8 x21x13, w/10x4 bay window, dbl open to 1/2 size room, stairway up (don't know what to measure there) and a another reg hallway opening.

Any add'l thoughts or comments are also more than welcome :) . 5.1, mainly for music (2 channel source listened in 2 channel w/sub) , live concert music DVDs(my favorite choice), sports, reg TV and a very occaisional movie. CLassic rock, uptempo blues, screaming trumpets

Enough for my 1st post on this thread, thanks!!

Mark

Hi,
Quick question, is the mesh on the DLS-5000R removable? (non-permanently, like the CHT-15?)

Hi,
It is not removable.
Curt

I apologize if this has been solved already. I did a search but didn't find an answer. I have an SMS-1 connected to a Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver. The receiver converts/upconverts all video signals to HDMI and sends them to the TV. No matter what I try, I can't get the video from the SMS-1 to work through the receiver. While the HDMI switching/upconversion might be the culprit, I have both an S-video and a composite component (Dish receiver and Hi-Fi Stereo VCR, respectively) running through it with no problems. However, neither the S-Video nor composite output on the SMS-1 will send video through the receiver.

I had originally utilized the VCR-2 input on the receiver for the SMS-1 and thought it might be a faulty input. So I tried a different one. No dice. I even tried sending the composite signal through the VCR-1 input, which is the one on which the VCR is connected. That didn't work, either. Finally, I tried sending the S-video signal through the Cable/Sat connection, to which the Dish is connected. Same result.

To be clear, I don't have cables running from both the composite and S-video outputs on the SMS-1 at the same time. I read where that was a potential problem. I alternated outputs when trying to get it to work.

Setting the conversion to either "upconvert" or "through" on the receiver has no effect.

The only thing that does work is plugging the SMS-1 directly into one of the free inputs on the TV. While that is a solution, it's not an optimal one. I have to constantly switch the inputs back and forth on the TV remote to make adjustments. It would be so much better to have the SMS-1's video going throught the receiver so as to have the benefit of the overlay of the receiver menu available for quick adjustments.

While I concede that it could still be a problem with the Yamaha receiver, I find this unlikely as I have both an S-video and a composite component connected and working without a hitch.

I really love the SMS-1, and it has basically turned my once mediocre HT into something truly jaw dropping. I just wish the video problem could be fixed. I would appreciate any attention Velodyne and/or the rest of the forum members could bring to this matter.

Thanks.

I want an SMS-1 bad but.. Why is it more expensive than my DLS-5000R? Curt? Discount? Pleeeez? :)

Hi,
Look what you're getting, a digital computer offering RTA and EQ (auto and manual) complete with mic and flexibility far beyond anything else offered in one package, and for those who need it, the most complete and flexible low-pass crossover available. Quite a bargain I'd say and believe me, we worked to keep the price down.
BTW, the street price for the SMS-1 is $599 and will support up to three subs. The DLS-5000R subwoofer. is $799.
Curt

Hi,
Look what you're getting, a digital computer offering RTA and EQ (auto and manual) complete with mic and flexibility far beyond anything else offered in one package, and for those who need it, the most complete and flexible low-pass crossover available. Quite a bargain I'd say and believe me, we worked to keep the price down.
BTW, the street price for the SMS-1 is $599 and will support up to three subs. The DLS-5000R subwoofer. is $799.
Curt

I got mine from a retailer for $395...

I got mine from a retailer for $395...

Ironic, then, that you're now sniveling for a replacement.

Hi,
I would make sure all the amplifier screws are snug. If that doesn't help and you're sure it's coming from the subwoofer, then contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

OK
My DD12 is in the house its to late to set it up tonight but at least I unpack my new baby (had to see how my rosewood fronts will match with cherry DD12, and it looks really good)
DD12 is small and heavy.
I will be testing it tomorrow, sorry today , when I wake up :)
I will give you my first impression later on tonight, so far looking good
BTW my room is only 1900cu/ft, so this sub will have no problem moving the air in my HT
THX all for your help

Ironic, then, that you're now sniveling for a replacement.

Who said replacement? :D Nothing wrong with addons is there?

Hi,
No idea. Every one I've checked has been tight. Check in about a month and make sure they stay tight.
Curt

Who said replacement? :D Nothing wrong with addons is there?

Ah. I now gather your gist. Consider me abashed. :o

I'm going to purchase a new set of speakers. Either the JMLabs Focal 908 bookshelf or the Anthony Gallo Reference (towers) 3.1's. I'm wondering, owning the DD15, is there really any reason to spend the little extra for towers? Will I really be gaining anything?

Hi,

Living in France, I own an SMS1 (connected to a JBL Pro 4645c sub).

Some time ago I read of a new Velodyne device handling multiple mics, which when connected to the SMS1 could provide more accurate corrections.

So is this product already on the market and what is/will be it's cost?

Thks,

Hugo

Hi,
It is the MIC-5 and is available. Check www.velodyne.com for info. You will need to check with your dealer for price.
Thanks,
Curt

I was helping a colleague update his DD-15 software to the latest version yesterday, which was accomplished with little difficulty. I know there is an official Velodyne thread, but all efforts to search it came up with nothing.

I did find a comment regarding the Low Pass slopes being limited now to 36db/octave... something about it more accurately reflecting the actual slope.

However, we were both shocked to see the LPF limited to 40Hz-199Hz, rather than the 15-199 advertised in all the literature. No matter what we tried, the LPF no longer goes below 40hz. This was disappointing because he uses very large PMC bi-amped front speakers and was previously using 25hz.

Is this 40hz LPF limit intentional? Why did Velodyne eliminate 15-40? Are we doing something wrong?

I sent you a PM.
Curt

Well, I've been enjoying my DD-18 for about 7 months, but I think it may have just developed a problem. Normally, the woofer is almost still at the volume I play (about 80db). However, now when the sub goes below 20 Hz (verified with the DDs 12345 sweep tone), the woofer cone shakes violently. The rough volumes recorded by the mic (at the different frequencies) are similar to what I remember them being. However, the woofer's warble at the low tones is very noticeable. I wonder if the accelerometer has an issue (or maybe it is an amp issue). I tried calling Velodyne support, but they were closed for the day. Have you guys heard of this (I apologize I haven't read this whole thread, I'm still in dismay over this issue)?

EDIT: Just as a clarification, the warble/"violent shaking" in the lower ranges was first noticeable to me when running the sweep tone today. It seems to me that sub is playing virtually all distortion below 20Hz (with the woofer shaking a whole magnitude more than I've ever seen it shake in ANY circumstance before). Once the woofer gets above 20 Hz it tames down almost instantly, and the tonality seems to be restored for the most part (I haven't confirmed this point, but at least it sounds much better above 20Hz). In the same sweep tone circumstances last week, the woofer was virtually silent below 20Hz. With the new warble, the sub is more audible now below 20Hz than it is at 30-35Hz (which is the reverse of how it was last week). It is almost as if the accelerometer's readings are off below 20Hz, and the sub is shaking to try to compensate.

Bonjour,

Hi,
It is the MIC-5 and is available. Check www.velodyne.com for info. You will need to check with your dealer for price.
Thanks,
Curt

Thks Curt... last time I went there, it seems I overlooked velodyne.com a bit too quickly... By the way in my opinion, it would be a nice idea to put a link on the SMS1 page pointing to MIC-5's page. ;)

Now concerning this MIC-5 product I have 2 questions:

1- in this MIC-5, is there any sort of priority indication concerning a specific position? For example is it possible to "declare" 40% "importance" to the main position (mic 1) so that the remaining 4 mics, get 60% (importance) of the total signal? I suppose NO, after reading the manual, but this is important in my case.

2- is the US version of THE MIC-5, usable on an European SMS-1? In other words would a US bought MIC-5, work without a problem with a French bought SMS-1? I bet the answer is YES! (as MIC-5 is battery powered, but one never knows for sure... with CE certification!)

Many thks for your answers,

Hugo

PS: is there any specific reason why on the MIC-5 product picture, the second mic from the right is in an opposite position to the other 4? Is this supposed to indicate the mic coming with the SMS-1? :)

I was helping a colleague update his DD-15 software to the latest version yesterday, which was accomplished with little difficulty. I know there is an official Velodyne thread, but all efforts to search it came up with nothing.

I did find a comment regarding the Low Pass slopes being limited now to 36db/octave... something about it more accurately reflecting the actual slope.

However, we were both shocked to see the LPF limited to 40Hz-199Hz, rather than the 15-199 advertised in all the literature. No matter what we tried, the LPF no longer goes below 40hz. This was disappointing because he uses very large PMC bi-amped front speakers and was previously using 25hz.

Is this 40hz LPF limit intentional? Why did Velodyne eliminate 15-40? Are we doing something wrong?

I sent you a PM.
Curt

hey curt, can you pm me the answer too?

Bonjour,



Thks Curt... last time I went there, it seems I overlooked velodyne.com a bit too quickly... By the way in my opinion, it would be a nice idea to put a link on the SMS1 page pointing to MIC-5's page. ;)

Now concerning this MIC-5 product I have 2 questions:

1- in this MIC-5, is there any sort of priority indication concerning a specific position? For example is it possible to "declare" 40% "importance" to the main position (mic 1) so that the remaining 4 mics, get 60% (importance) of the total signal? I suppose NO, after reading the manual, but this is important in my case.

2- is the US version of THE MIC-5, usable on an European SMS-1? In other words would a US bought MIC-5, work without a problem with a French bought SMS-1? I bet the answer is YES! (as MIC-5 is battery powered, but one never knows for sure... with CE certification!)

Many thks for your answers,

Hugo

PS: is there any specific reason why on the MIC-5 product picture, the second mic from the right is in an opposite position to the other 4? Is this supposed to indicate the mic coming with the SMS-1? :)

Hi,
1) No, the mic's will have equal input. 2) Yes, it will work with either SMS-1.
The mic's are all identical.
Thanks,
Curt

i use two dd-18s. they were daisy chained as in the manual. that meant they were daisy chained using the "pass through"connector on the master to slave input connector. i had a frequent problem of the slave not playing. this was obsereved even when i switched subs around. recently my installler switched the hookup to "output" connector on the master to slave input connector. now both subs play all the time. however, i now notice that the master sub seems to work a lot more than the slave. lots more movement. again, this is observed even if i switch the subs around.

my questions are, what is the best hook-up for two dd's and do i have a problem if one seems to work harder in the daisy chain, are my dd-18's Ok?

Hi,
I sent you a PM. Your new hook-up is going through a high-pass filter. Not good.
Curt

I have had my SPL-1200 sub for a couple years now and just recently I have had a problem where it is not responsive it not active but the power light is on.

The thing is with my Rotel system on or not is it makes a sound that is like a :


CLICK .... Boom

Sound every 1 to 2 minutes. That is if I keep it in the ON position or AUTO position. I rarely push the system so I know it is not blown. I have tried meesing around with it by power syscling it and doing a few other things but it keeps doing it. I do not get any response when playing anything through my system other than the Click... Boom sound.


Frustrating and I need to get it serviced just looking to see if anyone has any thoughts as to what is going on??

Not sure what the best way to get this serviced if it is indeed need of that. I have an electronics back ground so if this is related to the AMP or internals I am willing to take a stab at it that way with out having to send it in to get serviced.

HELP

Hi,
I recommend you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. Only the amp would be sent in.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt. I sent an email and waiting the response. I appricate your help my friend.

Thanks Curt. I sent an email and waiting the response. I appricate your help my friend.

Getrusty,
I sent two emails to Velodyne over the course of one week regarding an issue of my own without a response. Just FYI, I finally called them and spoke to a David who was very helpful. Once we established contact the emails now flow back and forth with same day response. The ball is now rolling on the repair of my sub.

ahhh yeah... I have still not heard from Velodyne via email. I tried calling and was on hold for a while yesterday so I figured I would send an email instead after being asked to keep holding or leave a voicemail for someone to call me back on. I will be calling today.

Thanks for the heads up! ;)

Hey all-

Just wanted to clear something up regarding my SPL-1200 issue. I was actually contacted the next morning via my email request and I am on the way to getting my SPL-1200 back up and running. I know there was some doubt posted saying it may be better to call. Thank to Curt for the help once again. You were helpful.

Maybe you can help get my amp turned around quick for my sub. I miss that rumble in my belly from my sub :)

Looking for guidance regarding my Velodyne CHT-10 Sub. I've been very happy with this unit for the two years I've owned it (it gets used infrequently). I leave the main power switch "on" and the use the "auto turn on" function to automatically activate the sub when my amp is used.
The other day, I came home to find my home circuit breaker feeding the branch that the sub ( and consequently all my home theather equipment) had tripped. All the components were switched off except the CHT-10 (left as usual in the "auto turn on" mode). After isolating all the other devices I found that the ciruit breaker stopped tripping (it would take about an hour) when I unplugged the CHT-10.

Unfortunately the 2 year warranty on the sub expired two months ago and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem or might there be a simple fix?

There are no service centers near me and the expense of shipping the unit for service would not be practical.

thanks

Hi,
You only ship the amp section and it is easily removed. Contact Velodyne service at; 408-564-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

I am building a dedicated home theater in my basement and would like to get some advice on which size of DD series subs would be good for my specific application. I used the tool on the web site, but I think it assumes that Velodyne will be the only subwoofer, which is not the case in my room. I will present my plan and if you think I should do something different, please suggest it. Keep in mind that funds are limited, but I can afford two DD-15's.

I am planning to use a pair of the DD Series of subs connected to the left and right sub outputs of a Lexicon MC-12B processor. The LFE sub (which I have had for several years) is an 18" Bag End Infrasub 18 and will be connected to the LFE output on the Lexicon processor.

For those unfamiliar with Lexicon bass management, crossovers for all surround speakers, the L & R subs, and the LFE sub can be independently adjusted between 30-120Hz, in 10Hz increments. Full range is also an option for the surround speakers. By using both the L&R subs and the LFE sub, I can send all bass below the crossover of my surround array to the L & R subs, and keep it out of the LFE channel. The LFE sub will only receive bass information present in the dedicate LFE channel, if present in the soundtrack.

My Left, Right, Left side, Right side, Left rear, and Right rear speakers are identical, have powered 8" subs, and are rated down to 34Hz. These speakers will probably be crossed over at 40 Hz, but 50, 60 or 70Hz are also options. The center channel will be crossed over at 80Hz. In this specific setup, the pair (L & R) of DD series subs would receive bass frequencies as follows:

1) Center channel bass from 80Hz and below sent to both the L & R subs.
2) Left, Left side, and Left rear channel bass from 40Hz and below sent to the L DD series sub.
3) Right, Right side, and Right rear channel bass from 40Hz and below sent to the R DD series sub

As a side note, the Bag End would receive only LFE channel bass when present in the program's soundtrack. The room will probably be around 6,000 cubic feet in volume. For argument's sake, let us assume there is program material out there with full range content in the surround array.

Thanks for any input.

Mark

Hi,
I sent you a PM. I suggest you call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

i won't try this ... but for the sake of curiosity, is it safe to put all 8 boosts on say 15hz on a DD18? does the DD have some sort of protection?

I just want to back up what other have said here. The email response to inquires is nil. I sent two emails over the course of the week last week to service@velodyne.com asking how one gets warranty service on a sub. Neither the website nor the documentation is clear on this though the website does list authorized sevice centers it does not say how one initiates the process. Velodyne maybe your spam filters are set to high or something, I don't know but why have an email address if nobody answers? I am going to try to call the number lister here tomorrow so lets hope their phone response is better :rolleyes: .

Hi,
I'm Sorry to hear you're having a problem reaching our service department. Please send me a PM with your name, phone number and email address and I'll have someone contact you tomorrow to get the warranty repair process started.
Thanks,
Curt

i won't try this ... but for the sake of curiosity, is it safe to put all 8 boosts on say 15hz on a DD18? does the DD have some sort of protection?

Is it safe? Yes. Advisable? No.

The 8 parametric EQs on the DD can be "stacked" if more boost or cut is desired at a particular frequency. There is protection built into the software that traps excessive signals before they have a chance to clip the amp or bottom the driver. Contrary to popular belief, the servo in the DD-18 makes it more faithfully follow the input signal, and this software is what limits the driver and amp from over driving. Being digital, the software works very precisely and the woofer and amp are pushed to their physical limits before the gain is tempered.

Now, would you really want to stack 8 EQs at 15? Sure you could, but why? Don't worry, the DD-18 has plenty of output at low frequencies with no additional EQs, and the onscreen frequency curve will tell you if the low end needs any boosting (usually not needed due to room gain).

Hope this helps,
Bruce

i'm sorry if this question has already been posted, but i couldn't find an efficient way to search through 80+ pages of this thread.

i recently acquired the amp from a uld-12 sub, but it was only after i purchased it that i realized it didn't come with the servo controller. i never even occured to me that these two pieces would be seperate... so now i'm worried that i just spent a bunch of money on something that won't work, or i'll have to spend even more.

so my question is: will this amp work *at all* without the servo controller?

Hi,
I'm sorry to say the ULD-12 amp will not work without the controller box and you would also need the ULD -12 driver in the proper size box. It was a system and each piece is required for a proper working unit. We no longer have parts for the ULD-12.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

a question curtc or bruce hall, what is it that auto switches on the DD ?

Is it the input signal level (is the signal level on the avr mine is set on -10db), the vol level on the sub itself(mine is set on 20). Just at times the sub does not auto wake up have to give it a bit of a raise on system vol and then alls go.

Ps I'm using a y-cable already. Is there an option in the menu to have the sub on all the time rather than on auto switch on ?

by the way love the vello DD I have the DD15 and running v2.2.0

Hi,
It reacts to the input voltage (from the receiver), -10 is way too low. Bring it up (in the receiver), a lot and back off on the DD volume accordingly and that should take care of the issue. We're finding most receivers that set the levels automatically or do auto-eq are setting the sub levels way too low. If you still have problems, PM me or call me Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
It reacts to the input voltage (from the receiver), -10 is way too low. Bring it up (in the receiver), a lot and back off on the DD volume accordingly and that should take care of the issue. We're finding most receivers that set the levels automatically or do auto-eq are setting the sub levels way too low. If you still have problems, PM me or call me Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

thanks for the prompt response curt, I'll drop you a line.

Hi,
It reacts to the input voltage (from the receiver), -10 is way too low. Bring it up (in the receiver), a lot and back off on the DD volume accordingly and that should take care of the issue. We're finding most receivers that set the levels automatically or do auto-eq are setting the sub levels way too low. If you still have problems, PM me or call me Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

thanks for the prompt response curt, I've got a a bit more to clarify, I'll drop you a line.

I am considering Velodyne (DLS-4000R). How will this compare to like a SVS pb10 or HSU stf-2. THey all cost about the same and will not be able to demo any of them so your thoughts would be appreciated.

Hi,
Since I have never tested the other two, I cannot speak to their performance. As for as features go, IMO we're way ahead, offering DSP funtions for 4 prests, 4 phase settings, power on/off, mute and volume up and down at the touch of a hand-held remote. For me the ability to fine tune the sub from listening position is indispensable. Hope this helps.
Curt

Hi,
Since I have never tested the other two, I cannot speak to their performance. As for as features go, IMO we're way ahead, offering DSP funtions for 4 prests, 4 phase settings, power on/off, mute and volume up and down at the touch of a hand-held remote. For me the ability to fine tune the sub from listening position is indispensable. Hope this helps.
Curt


Good points Curt. I have a multi use (music/ht) environment and I find my Velo remote invaluable for switching the subs settings. In a non-dedicated applications switchable DSP/phase via remote is a godsend.

I think I will probably buy this sub as I can get it for a great price through AAFES right now. I currently live in a condo but will move into a house probably within a year. The night mode and ability to level down the sub with the remote sound valuable with close neighbors and all. Thanks for the opinions. How much difference in spl and HZ is there between the 3750r and 4000r? Maybe I should opt for the 10" sub. The 12" will grow with me into my next home though. CHoices.

This is my first post, so I hope it works.

I recently bought a second hand HGS-15. I brought it home and plugged it into my Yamaha RX-V595a and set it to autodetect power mode. It worked just fine for the first few weeks. The sub powered on whenever it detected a signal and the blue light was a comforting sight. At no time have I driven the sub hard or loud, all it's been used for is simple movie watching and music playing at low volume levels.

However, a few days ago the sub went silent and the blue light was flashing/blinking at me instead. I was concerned and turned off the power for a few minutes. When I turned the power on again the same flashing blue light greeted me, still with no sound from the sub.

I unplugged the sub completely and left it overnight. When I reconnected it, again no sound and the blue light flashing forlornly at me.

Can anyone please help me with this problem? Surely this has happened to someone else before and I'd love to know the potential causes. As the sub is second hand, I don't have immediate access to a dealer to investigate the problem, plus the idea of lugging the amp to a repair shop somewhere is daunting to say the least.

Therefore, I'm hoping someone can suggest the best course of action to get my beautiful velodyne pumping again.

Hi,
Contact our service manager, David Santos; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. When repairs are needed it's usually in the amp section and the amp is easily removed.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

After playing with DD12 for 2 weeks I can officially say this sub is great.
Auto equalization works really good, but manual one works even better.
driver response on dd is amazing.
Thank you Curt for your help 3 weeks ago

I ordered the VRP-1000 sub but was told that it is not large enough for my space. Now, I have a chance to buy a Velodyne cht-12 sub used and want to know if it has enough power to perform in a 3500 ft. HT space?

Here are the specs:

12" Forward Firing Subwoofer
(9.9" piston diameter)
Frequency Response: 25-120 Hz +-3 dB
High Pass Crossover (6 dB/octave slope):
80Hz or 100Hz

Low Pass Crossover (12 dB octave, 24 dB ultimate):
40Hz-120Hz (adjustable)

Auto On/Off
Dynamic Power: 400 watts
RMS Power: 170 watts
Magnet: 55 oz.
Voice Coil: 2" 4-layer copper
Inputs: Line-level and speaker-level
Outputs: Line-level and speaker-level
Crossover bypass: Subwoofer Direct
Cone: Reinforced fiber
Cabinet (H/W/D): 18" x 15" x 21"
Weight: 60 lbs.
Warranty: 2 years (parts & labor)
Finish: Black vinyl

Hi,
It will be marginal but certainly a better choice than the VRP-1000. Does the 3500 cubic foot room open into other rooms? If so I'd recommend the DLS-5000R.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
It will be marginal but certainly a better choice than the VRP-1000. Does the 3500 cubic foot room open into other rooms? If so I'd recommend the DLS-5000R.
Thanks, Curt

Curt,

Thanks for the response. I live in a townhouse and the second floor (living room) totals 3500 cubic ft., (36x12x8ft.). It's a large open space with hardwood floors and a few rugs. I ordered the VRP 1000 because I only bought what I thought would be enough for my little HT area (10x12x8) area and was unaware that I had to buy for the whole room. I will be pairing the sub with the Velodyne CHT 5 piece satellite system with a high crossover of 80, 100, or 120 Hz.

I'm trying to stay around the $300 price point and willing to buy used. any ideas?

Hi,
The CHT-12 sub, with the CHT satellites, will make an excellent system for your purpose. I would recommend crossing over at 120hz.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
The CHT-12 sub, with the CHT satellites, will make an excellent system for your purpose. I would recommend crossing over at 120hz.
Curt (480) 595-7141

This must be Curt from Velodyne, I spoke with you earlier in the week and I appreciate the help. Great customer service. I'm trying to stay in the Velodyne family! I really like the satellites and bought them because they were a great deal and solely on the Velodyne reputation.

Hi Again,
We certainly appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks,
Curt

I have just bought a new SPL1200R :) . I have a question about the EQ...

Do the four selectable EQ settings superimpose their characteristics on top of the Auto-EQ settings, or do they simply replace the Auto-EQ?

I was tempted to select 3 - to get the flattest possible response, but if it replaces the Auto-EQ then I may be doing the wrong thing?!

Thanks in advance...

Ade

What's the minimum and maximum room sizes for the above model? Also how does these compare to Paradigm Servo 15?

Hi Ade,
'Superimpose' is correct. They add to the auto/eq'd spectrum. Number #3 would add nothing.
Curt

Hi Ade,
'Superimpose' is correct. They add to the auto/eq'd spectrum. Number #3 would add nothing.
Curt

Thanks Curt, I'll feel free to play with all four then.

It may be worth adding this clarification for the next update on the manual - for those people who are not lucky enough to benefit from this forum :)

Cheers...

Ade

Thanks for the feedback.
Curt

A *quick* (lol) question. I'm trying to find a sub thats fast enough to keep up with my Apogee Duetta's. I only need to operate the sub in a very narrow band, 30hz-18hz (or lower). Speed is of the utmost importance to properly integrate the sub with the speakers. The room is 15X25X 8.5 (ft) high. Any thoughts?

I'm thinking of buying a Velodyne ULD-12 for $350. I'm on a budget and I figure it's better to buy a better used sub than a new cheaper one. It seems to be in great shape.

Anyway, I have read a lot of reviews about the ULD-15 that say it's truly great sub but I can't seem to find anything about the ULD-12. I just wanted to see if you guys had any comments about the ULD-12.

Is it considered a great sub as well? I know it doesn't have as powerful an amp as the ULD-15.

Thanks for the help and guidance.

Rios

ps. In case it helps my speakers are Klipsch RB-75s.

I apologize if this has been solved already. I did a search but didn't find an answer. I have an SMS-1 connected to a Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver. The receiver converts/upconverts all video signals to HDMI and sends them to the TV. No matter what I try, I can't get the video from the SMS-1 to work through the receiver. While the HDMI switching/upconversion might be the culprit, I have both an S-video and a composite component (Dish receiver and Hi-Fi Stereo VCR, respectively) running through it with no problems. However, neither the S-Video nor composite output on the SMS-1 will send video through the receiver.

I had originally utilized the VCR-2 input on the receiver for the SMS-1 and thought it might be a faulty input. So I tried a different one. No dice. I even tried sending the composite signal through the VCR-1 input, which is the one on which the VCR is connected. That didn't work, either. Finally, I tried sending the S-video signal through the Cable/Sat connection, to which the Dish is connected. Same result.

To be clear, I don't have cables running from both the composite and S-video outputs on the SMS-1 at the same time. I read where that was a potential problem. I alternated outputs when trying to get it to work.

Setting the conversion to either "upconvert" or "through" on the receiver has no effect.

The only thing that does work is plugging the SMS-1 directly into one of the free inputs on the TV. While that is a solution, it's not an optimal one. I have to constantly switch the inputs back and forth on the TV remote to make adjustments. It would be so much better to have the SMS-1's video going throught the receiver so as to have the benefit of the overlay of the receiver menu available for quick adjustments.

While I concede that it could still be a problem with the Yamaha receiver, I find this unlikely as I have both an S-video and a composite component connected and working without a hitch.

I really love the SMS-1, and it has basically turned my once mediocre HT into something truly jaw dropping. I just wish the video problem could be fixed. I would appreciate any attention Velodyne and/or the rest of the forum members could bring to this matter.

Thanks.

Was there a resolution to this? I have the exact same problem with my Anthem D2. I have an Anthem Statement D2 surround sound processor. My Velodyne SMS-1's S-Video output is connected to my D2. The D2 "upconverts" S-Video to its HDMI output. When using the D2's HDMI output, I do not see the SMS-1's OSD (on-screen display). However, when I use the D2's S-Video output, I can see the SMS-1's OSD. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and they work okay with the D2's HDMI output. Is there something with the SMS-1's video that is not quite standard or is preventing my D2's and Shakeman's Yamaha from upconverting its signal to HDMI output? Someone else with a D2 reported the same problem in the Anthem forum.

Not that this is a solution to your problem, but what I do is to connect the audio out of the SMS-1 to my preamp and the s-video output directly to the TV.

What this configuration allows me to do is to have the TV set to twin view and have the SMS-1s on screen display in one window and the preamp's set up menus in the other. This approach allows you to correct for latency by adjusting the sub distance according to how it plots.

What an excellent forum. I've added it to my several Velodyne favorite sites.

I have one sub hooked up and running in the line level configuration. I only have one DD 18 at the moment but the second one is on back order and should be here in just a few days. I have hooked up the one sub I have now to the right channel to begin familiarizing myself with everything. I connected to my processor using the right main channel XLR out. I could barely hear anything from the sub and the amp was not seeing enough of a signal from the DD18 right output to come on at all. So the right spleaker was dead silent. However, when I switched from the right XLR connections to the single out connections everything worked fine. The darn thing is I was really hoping to use the XLR for the long cable run but this is not really that critical to me, just my preferred way. The quality shielded unbalanced cables I have will be fine if need be. Do you know why the XLR main output won’t drive the DD 18 and speaker? I have the Integra Research 7.1 processor and McIntosh 501 monoblocks.

Thanks,
Jesse

jesse111

If I understand what you're saying, it sounds like your preamp is showing the speaker size as small. This would only send out a signal at 80 hz (or whatever you have your crossover set at) and above which doesn't do anything for your sub. You might want to verify that its set to large.

Thanks Jim,

I should have mentioned that I am a 2 channel listener. I have been through an array of high end players, Sim Audio and McIntosh to mention a few, and found this equipment to my liking even though it is home theater capable. The 2 channel performance is the truest I've ever heard. (Sorry for the rant). So, all speakers are off except the mains which default to full range. The LFE/SUB option is also off further assuring full range only to the mains.

But the question simply put is, with all things equal why does the DD 18/Integra Research line leval connection unbalanced perform well and the XLR does not?

I'm thinking of buying a Velodyne ULD-12 for $350. I'm on a budget and I figure it's better to buy a better used sub than a new cheaper one. It seems to be in great shape.

Anyway, I have read a lot of reviews about the ULD-15 that say it's truly great sub but I can't seem to find anything about the ULD-12. I just wanted to see if you guys had any comments about the ULD-12.

Is it considered a great sub as well? I know it doesn't have as powerful an amp as the ULD-15.

Thanks for the help and guidance.

Rios

ps. In case it helps my speakers are Klipsch RB-75s.

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi. I am having an unexpected TV interference problem with my new DD-15.

When its plugged in, the sub interferes badly with most of my low-numbered over-the-air TV channels. Its such a strong signal that I can see a ghost of the Velodyne setup menu in the video noise.

Due to room limitations I can only move the DD-15 a max of three feet from my television. So far the only "solution" I've found is to completely unplug the DD-15's power. Turning if off is not even enough, as apparently the video circuit is always on. Thinking maybe the video signal was somehow leaking through an interconnect, I disconnected all cables from the sub except power, but that did not help.

Any ideas? Is there a way to turn off the video circuit? Is my DD-15 missing some video shielding that it should have gotten? Thanks.

Hi,
I haven't heard of this issue before. Please contact our service manager David Santos at;
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Curt

Thanks Jim,

I should have mentioned that I am a 2 channel listener. I have been through an array of high end players, Sim Audio and McIntosh to mention a few, and found this equipment to my liking even though it is home theater capable. The 2 channel performance is the truest I've ever heard. (Sorry for the rant). So, all speakers are off except the mains which default to full range. The LFE/SUB option is also off further assuring full range only to the mains.

But the question simply put is, with all things equal why does the DD 18/Integra Research line leval connection unbalanced perform well and the XLR does not?

Hi,
I think we cleared up everything on the phone. Nice talking to you.
Take Care,
Curt

Guys like Curt are a dying breed. (Sorry old man didn't mean that literally). Straight talkin, no gimmick music lovers. It's one thing to write wordy reviews about all the snake oil that improves a system with no scientific data and couldn't possibly be identified in a blind test. But it's another to truly know what you're talking about and back it up with a lifetime of experience. I'm strickly 2 channel. What I need is sound stage and imaging with such realism that when I spin Tony Joe White, John Kay or Diana Krall the near physical presence goes to the point of a bit unsettling for the inexperienced. Few people truly understand this quest. Curt however, does. What reasonable individual would install 2 DD 18's in line level high pass crossing at 80hz into Maggie 20.1's using Velodyne's built in 1st order crossover? How could anyone fancy themselves as a bit of an audiophile and dirty up their system like that? Most assuredly only a person confident enough to follow his ears, not the hype.

Here's the thing. It's supposed to sound good. It's supposed to sound real. I don't need to read how lifting my cables off the floor will make my system "breath" or that I must use XLR otherwise I'm missing out on the subtle nuances! Conrad Johnson is some of the best equipment on the market and they don't use XLR. Go figure. However, I do have XLR connections and I use them. It may not help but it's fun. Can I hear the difference? No. But I use them anyway. There's no crime in a little fun but the best sound is the bottom line. So, thanks Curt for that good conversation (all be it a short one) and I can't wait till my other DD 18 comes in so I can finish balancing out this awesome system with my long unbalanced cables. Thanks to the DD18 (and Magnepan), this two channel guy is reaching sonic nirvana. Customer service on Sunday? You've got to be kidding.

I hear that Velodyne makes one of the best home theater subs. I wouldn't know myself but I have no problem believing it. As for two channel music... it's the best I've heard.

Thanks again Curt for the straight, refreshing talk without the hype and also for solving my configuration questions as regards the line level for the two subs and mono blocks. Velodyne is a gift to the audio industry.

Jesse,
Fortunately I've been having fun in audio for over fifty years. That's what keeps me going and not retired. Keep your mind and ears open and apply a dose of common sense. I too am thankful for Velodyne and I work for them by choice, not chance.
Thanks for the kind remarks and enjoy your dynamite system.
Curt

Hello I own a ULD-15, I would like to adjust the crossover Freq., it is currently stock.
First can you tell me what the factory crossover setting was???
I'm guessing it was a bit high 90hz or higher.
It sounds too boomy to me, I would like to lower it.
I'm aware that I need to change the R and C values soldered on what I remember was a dip header in the amplifier.

Can you supply me with what value resistor / capacitor changes are needed to lower the Freq. and what values will give me what frequencys....
Thank you very much......

Also for others to know who think they have a bad servo. When I got this, it would go into wild oscillations a moment after turning it on. Makes a little pop noise a few seconds after turn on, then would go crazy with no audio input.
Some times by holding the cone I could get it to not oscillate, but as soon as I raised the volume on the amp so it gets some sound it would go back into wild oscillations.
I assumed the servo was shot but then noticed a few very small cracks in the foam surround. I had it refoamed and that cured the problem! I think that the servo pickup is hearing the slight noise from the air leaks around the surround or the reduced air pressure against the back of the cone (because of the leaks) drives the system crazy. Much like bad shocks on your car causes it to bounce wildly....

Hi,
The stock crossover is 85hz. Please contact our service manager David Santos; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. He can supply the crossover information. Yes any leaks in the speaker or surround will affect the servo.
Thanks,
Curt

Was there a resolution to this? I have the exact same problem with my Anthem D2. I have an Anthem Statement D2 surround sound processor. My Velodyne SMS-1's S-Video output is connected to my D2. The D2 "upconverts" S-Video to its HDMI output. When using the D2's HDMI output, I do not see the SMS-1's OSD (on-screen display). However, when I use the D2's S-Video output, I can see the SMS-1's OSD. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and they work okay with the D2's HDMI output. Is there something with the SMS-1's video that is not quite standard or is preventing my D2's and Shakeman's Yamaha from upconverting its signal to HDMI output? Someone else with a D2 reported the same problem in the Anthem forum.

Anthem support suspects that there is something inherent with the SMS-1's OSD and it's not exactly interlaced, and can't be recognized by the D2's processor which is attempting to transcode the S-Video to HDMI out. In the Anthem thread, others with SMS-1 and DD subwoofers reported the exact same problem as me. Shakeman also reported a similar problem with the SMS-1's OSD when used with his Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver, so this doesn't seem to be an issue specific to the Anthem D2.

For now, I can use the S-Video out directly, but it would be nice if the video processor can work with the SMS-1's OSD. That way, I would only need one cable from my D2 to the projector.

Curt, any insight on this issue? Do you know if other folks who use a video processor/scaler have this same issue?

Hi,
No idea. I heard about the Yamaha and one other unit, but that user was having an issue with everything. I'll run it by Bruce and see if he has any thoughts. We may need to borrow an Anthem or Yamaha.
Curt

Hi,
No idea. I heard about the Yamaha and one other unit, but that user was having an issue with everything. I'll run it by Bruce and see if he has any thoughts. We may need to borrow an Anthem or Yamaha.
Curt
Hello Curt,

I have the same problem with my DD12 and only DD12. Everything else works well with S-video.

Let us know if you find anything

this really isnt a velodyne question but ...
say I have a DD-18 sub. 1250w RMS
what happens if I use a 1000w automatic voltage regulator? what about a 2000w one?

Curt,
As I continue to refine the placement of the Maggies with the new DD 18 subs as well as fine tuning the subs, I'm discovering what I've been missing. The maggies alone are simply magnificent but for my taste these subs are purifying the bass to an astonishing degree. I'm really having a great time with them. When I play the first CD of the day it surpizes me a bit as to the level of quality and realism that my sound system has attained with the addition of the two DD18's. As I refine over the next few weeks I'd like to share my impressions of this combination. I can't help but think there are many other 2 channel music lovers out there that have wondered about adding a pair of DD18's but for one reason or another have held back. What it has done so far to add clarity and refinement to the music in my system has been the answere to many hardware changes and placement changes without success.

Just purchased a SPL-1200R. Pleasantly surprised so far. Bought this to upgrade from a Deftech 15TL+. One thing I have noticed so far. When I plug in the mike and run the EQ function I notice that my bass is lower afterwards. I thought the EQ function was supposed to improve bass. Main use of my system is 90% movies. Thanks

gp56

What you are probably experiencing is a decrease in a single frequency that has been dominating the subwoofer range. By lowering it, you can raise the total volume so that you can now hear the other sub frequencies the way they were intended to be heard.

Thanks JimP. I actually didnt recalibrate after doing the EQ. Instead I restored the default settings. Will try what you suggest when I get home from work.

I have a question regarding the "Q" setting (own the DD15). It appears I can move my line verses moving the "Q" to obtain what appears to be similar results. What is the advantage of the "Q" setting, and more importantly, is it better to keep the "Q" at the lower factory settings verses raising it to the higher numbers? Another words, i can raise my line another click and lower the "Q", or lower the line a click, and raise the "Q".

I have played around with the software many times, but I'd be hard pressed to say that I can actually hear a difference when adjusting the "Q". I'm sure this is a relevant setting, but I don't understand how this works. Help please.....

I have a question regarding the "Q" setting (own the DD15). It appears I can move my line verses moving the "Q" to obtain what appears to be similar results. What is the advantage of the "Q" setting, and more importantly, is it better to keep the "Q" at the lower factory settings verses raising it to the higher numbers? Another words, i can raise my line another click and lower the "Q", or lower the line a click, and raise the "Q".

I have played around with the software many times, but I'd be hard pressed to say that I can actually hear a difference when adjusting the "Q". I'm sure this is a relevant setting, but I don't understand how this works. Help please.....

Hi,
Q is a widely misunderstood concept in audio, so don't feel bad that you don't know it. At least you are asking!

Q stands for quality of the audio filter. A high Q is a very high quality filter, and a lower Q is a less precise (aka sloppier) filter. An EQ is in fact a filter, in that it will have an effect on only certain frequencies of the audio spectrum. If you look at the default DD EQ positions, you will see the vertical bars are evenly spaced. You will also notice that all the Qs are default to 4.3. Both these defaults are at third-octave. The 4.3 means that the filter will affect only those frequencies that are about 1/2 of the way up and 1/2 of the way down to the adjacent filter. Increasing the Q means the band of affected frequencies narrows, but the filtering effect is more precise, and lowering it means that more surrounding frequencies are affected, but the filtering is less effective. The Q ranges are from .3 to 20.0, with a default of 4.3 as stated above.

The level is also important here - if you change the Q of an EQ that has a level of 0, it will make no difference, and even high level (plus or minus) EQs can have a subtle change in their audio signature as the Q is changed.

Q is most useful when trying to attack a stubborn peak or dip. Like most other things in EQing, it is very much trial and error to get a flat curve sometimes!

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Hi,
Q is a widely misunderstood concept in audio, so don't feel bad that you don't know it. At least you are asking!

Q stands for quality of the audio filter. A high Q is a very high quality filter, and a lower Q is a less precise (aka sloppier) filter. An EQ is in fact a filter, in that it will have an effect on only certain frequencies of the audio spectrum. If you look at the default DD EQ positions, you will see the vertical bars are evenly spaced. You will also notice that all the Qs are default to 4.3. Both these defaults are at third-octave. The 4.3 means that the filter will affect only those frequencies that are about 1/2 of the way up and 1/2 of the way down to the adjacent filter. Increasing the Q means the band of affected frequencies narrows, but the filtering effect is more precise, and lowering it means that more surrounding frequencies are affected, but the filtering is less effective. The Q ranges are from .3 to 20.0, with a default of 4.3 as stated above.

The level is also important here - if you change the Q of an EQ that has a level of 0, it will make no difference, and even high level (plus or minus) EQs can have a subtle change in their audio signature as the Q is changed.

Q is most useful when trying to attack a stubborn peak or dip. Like most other things in EQing, it is very much trial and error to get a flat curve sometimes!

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Bruce,

Thank you.

i have a velodyne dls-5000r on order coming soon and i wanted to see what the recommended hook for it was.

i have a 'subwoofer out' on my receiver with a set crossover at 90Hz, but i have heard it recommended that i run parallel wires from my amp to both my speakers and my sub.

this seems like the better option to me because i can take advantage of the variable crossover on my sub instead of just having it set at 90Hz. however, this also means that i'll have to run my speakers w/ a Large setting on my reciever which i've heard can be bad because the bass from my main speakers can interfere with the sub's bass. if i use the 'subwoofer out' i can set my speakers to small.

any thoughts would be appreciated. i'm really not that educated about any of this.

thanks,
jacob

also, i have klipsch rb-75s as my mains. (bookshelf)

jrios212

Are you using your system for music or home theater?? What brand and model number receiver are you using?? Is the crossover in the receiver adjustable, meaning can you lower it to 80 hz or lower??