jrios212

Are you using your system for music or home theater?? What brand and model number receiver are you using?? Is the crossover in the receiver adjustable, meaning can you lower it to 80 hz or lower??
Hi JimP,

I use my system for both music and HT but probably favor music a little bit more. My receiver needs to be replaced but for now it is an entry level Yamaha. I think it's an HTR-5730. The crossover in the receiver is not adjustable. If I set my main speakers to 'small' anything under 90Hz goes to the sub. It does not appear like there's anyway to change it.

Also, the reason it was recommended that I run parallel wires from my amp to both my main speakers and sub is so that my audio signal does not have to pass through two crossovers (reciever and sub). Anytime anything goes through circuitry the quality of the signal goes down. Anyway, I'm not sure how much of a difference this will make since my receiver's not that great anyway.

In the end I guess I can always just listen to both but I'd like to have to avoid buying both more speaker wire and/or a subwoofer cable.

Thanks for the reply,
Jacob

Jacob,

Like you said, the best way is to try them both ways and see which sound better.

There was a writeup about these speakers in one of the mags where they tried it both ways and opted for going with speakers on small, preamp/receiver on set on 50Hz crossover and sub on the subwoofer out cable. Since your receiver won't go down that low, their results are not likely to be the same as yours. I would think taking the lows off of the mains would provide a cleaner sound with less distortion and more power towards the mids and highs.

Best of luck.

Hi,
For now with the receiver you have, I would recommend setting the speakers 'small' and use the line level 'sub out' hook up. This will protect your smaller speakers and provide the advantages of bi-amping. Also multiple drivers playing (or attempting to play) the same low frequencies often produce negative results. The crossover in the Velodyne can be bypassed and 90hz (Yamaha) is fine for your crossover point.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I don't mean to intrude on the support thread, but if you guys have some pictures of the drivers, I would appreciate seeing them posted here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=708748

The HGS driver already looks ridiculous.

Everytime I turn on the SMS-1 (using either the 12V trigger or just all by itself before or after everything else is on) my subs will get a huge thump. It's too huge for me to really feel that comfortable with it. So right now I'm leaving the SMS-1 on all the time. Could you tell me what the SMS-1's idle power draw is, when it isn't receiving any input signal?

Or, even better if you have some idea on how to avoid the startup thump. The SMS-1's volume is 24, my subs gain is at 50%. Thanks.

Hi Josuah,
I sent you a PM.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Dear Curt,

I tend to be posted for some years in countries with 220V and then back to 110V regions. If I buy a the DLS-5000r sub, could I use it with a transformer in a 220V 50 hz country?

Thanks

Federico

Hi,
Yes you can use an external transformer as long as it will support 600 watts RMS. The alternative is to have the internal wiring of the DLS-5000R changed each time.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Yamaha's 90hz crossover works fine with most setups. If your speakers have very large or multiple woofers you might want a lower crossover, but for most speakers 90hz will work great and all our subwoofers play 90hz and above. In most systems with a subwoofer, calling your speakers "small" provides the best performance.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
just got my dd18 back from service and now my remote does not work. I emailed Pete @ CS a couple of days ago. Have not got reply. Could you email me and provide some direction on how to fix.

Thanks,
tFH

Hi,
I sent you a PM with contact information.
Curt

I searched around in this thread and in the Velodyne EQ thread and couldn't find an answer to this question.

I have an extra XLR cable. Currently, my preamp's LFE out is connected to my SMS-1 via an RCA cable. If I use an XLR cable from my preamp's LFE out to my SMS-1's XLR in, is it okay if I use an RCA cable from the SMS-1 to my subwoofer? My subwoofer does not have an XLR input. The SMS-1 is not far from my preamp (maybe 6'), but since I already have an extra XLR cable anyway, and just to be extra sure to minimize potential interference (since the cable is very close to a number of power cords) and group loop issues, I'd figure I should use an XLR cable. Question is, are there any disadvantages of using an XLR cable from my preamp to the SMS-1, given that I'll still be using an RCA cable from the SMS-1 to my sub?

Thanks.

No disadvantages in my experience. That's how I do it.

Kal

Hello,

I have a late 90's F1800RII of which I've been very pleased with it's power and performance.

I recently reconfigured my system to integrate a high definition television and an HD Tivo. All my power cords are plugged into a Monster AV700 Power Center for surge protection. After I had finished setting everything up, I switched the power center back on and the Velodyne responded unexpectedly with what I can only describe as sounding as if my house was literally being ripped apart! It was as if eveything was set to max. I scrambled for the remote and was able to shut it off. I was sure the speaker had ripped itself apart. Upon inspection, everything looked normal and when I powered back up via the remote everything sounded perfect - no hum and bass response seamlessly integrated with the rest of my system. I enjoyed my system for the next few weeks and then we had a power outage. Power was out for a few hours and when it was restored - WHAMO! - the same gut wrenching response. Again, I shut it down and when I powered back up - perfection. I've unplugged it for fear of what might happen if we were gone and had another outage. I'm stumped and am ready to take it in for service. Any suggestions?

Thanks (My first post in this great forum!)

Hi,
I suggest you contact our service manager, David Santos on Monday. It may be wise to have your amplifier checked and updated.
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

I will receive my CHT-12R this week...
To save power and also because my wife and my children are watching TV at low level which doesn't wake up my actual subwoofer, I have connected the sub to the switched power plug of my Denon amplifier.
I would like to do the same with the Velodyne, but what will be the settings at power on?
The default "factory" settings? And then what are those values (volume should be 35, but what about phase and DSP setting)?

Or the last choosen values before cutting the power?

Many thanks for your help,
Dirk

Hi,
A powered subwoofer should not be connected to a power outlet on a receiver. Receivers cannot normally supply enough current for a subwoofer amplifier.
At factory default (or reset), phase will be '0' and preset '3'. When turned off the sub will power up at last selected settings.
Thanks,
Curt

i am planning on either 1 or 2 velodyne DD series subwoofers depending on needs, but i cant break the bank either.....the total downstairs is an open concept in a U shape, with home theater on one of the sides of the U......that section is 12' X 20' and slanted ceiling from 22 feet on one side to 9 feet on the other.....approximately 2800 cubic feet in just that section, but opens up to another 3000 plus cubic feet towards the kitchen......i am wondering if (2) DD-12 would be better than (1) DD-18 to spread the bass out and fill better etc.....any combination of subs is ok for recommendations......even a DD-10 behind the couch with a DD-15 eslewhere etc, i am just trying to keep the reasonable cost down otherwise i would just get (2) DD-18 if i could afford it......any advice is greatly appreciated

Hi,
For equal output it would take four twelves (more or less) to equal one eighteen. Your total displacement calls for two eighteens. (See www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and sub heading 'subwoofer recommendations'.) So I would recommend starting with one DD-18. This will also give you the most 'bang for the buck' in your large basement. I don't generally recommend mixing different size subs.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
For equal output it would take four twelves (more or less) to equal one eighteen. Your total displacement calls for two eighteens. (See www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and sub heading 'subwoofer recommendations'.) So I would recommend starting with one DD-18. This will also give you the most 'bang for the buck' in your large basement. I don't generally recommend mixing different size subs.
Thanks,
Curtthanks for your insight Curt, that was what i was looking for.....i realize i have a large space to fill, but right now i have (2) Outlaw LFM-1 subs that fill the space ok, i just wanted the sharper/cleaner DD series instead.....i did try the sub recommendation page and it came back (2) 15's or (2) 18's, so i guess a better question would be for my situation, would (2) 15's be better than (1) DD-18?......i am confident that the one DD-18 would sound better than my 2 outlaws do......i have just stretched my budget so far and am trying to be reasonable about it as well as keep the size of the subs down to the minimum.......thanks again for all your help on this board, you are huge help!

Hi,
The output of two DD-15's will be in the same ballpark as one DD-18, so as I said I'd start with one DD-18 for now. It's also cost effective and you could add a second down the road if necessary. BTW, feel free to call any time.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

"I suggest you contact our service manager, David Santos on Monday. It may be wise to have your amplifier checked and updated.
Thanks,
Curt"

Curt ,

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Dave emailed me and suggested trying to run the sub on a dedicated circuit with surge protection provided by a Monster AV-200 subwoofer surge protector. While I'm at it, I think I'll also upgrade my audio cable.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Hi! I have spl1000, and i would like to know its driver parameters.. I want to chnge the internal box volume.. thanks,regards..

Curt,
I am about to hook up a DD-15 to an Anthem D2 pre-pro for a trial period. Is there any update yet on the issue of the S-video output from the DD series apparently not working with the D2 as regards the D2's conversion of S-video input to HDMI output?
--Bob

Hi,
Sorry, no date. We will be looking into it.
Thanks,
Curt

I was helping a colleague update his DD-15 software to the latest version yesterday, which was accomplished with little difficulty. I know there is an official Velodyne thread, but all efforts to search it came up with nothing.

I did find a comment regarding the Low Pass slopes being limited now to 36db/octave... something about it more accurately reflecting the actual slope.

However, we were both shocked to see the LPF limited to 40Hz-199Hz, rather than the 15-199 advertised in all the literature. No matter what we tried, the LPF no longer goes below 40hz. This was disappointing because he uses very large PMC bi-amped front speakers and was previously using 25hz.

Is this 40hz LPF limit intentional? Why did Velodyne eliminate 15-40? Are we doing something wrong?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What was the final response to this question ? I did not see anything except a PM and that has left me wondering if I should bother updating to version 2.2.0 or Not. Can anyone comment on their experience with upgrading to version 2.2.0

Hi,
In the 2.2 software the lower limit for the low pass filter is 40hz and the slope is 36db. We found the previous 48db slope (in the 2.0 software) was actually 36db so the 2.2 software correctly states the maximum slope as 36db.
Hope this helps.
Curt

Hi Curt, can you tell me if you think a single SPL 1200 MK2 will do a good job presurizing a room 14x12(main soundstage) with an open arch leading to a smaller room 8x12?

mark

Hi,
Assuming the ceiling is 8', and there are no other rooms involved, it will do a good job. You're just over 2,000 total cubic feet.
Thanks,
Curt

Need Help With Sub Woofer

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My sub woofer, started giving gurgling sound on tone while setting up speakers via recievers! it was hushing sound like typical speaker sound? any idea? what went wrong, just changed the reciever! and hooked it back, on back of reciever in SW pree out. Reciever pioneer vsx 1016TXV, sub woofer powered velodyne 10/12


Any help will be cordially appreciated!

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. If you think there is a hook-up issue call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I'm rack mounting my SMS-1 and have a couple of questions:

1. I noticed that the SMS-1 runs pretty cool. It doesn't seem to get warm at all. I'm considering putting it right under an APC UPS rack mount unit (http://www.laaudiofile.com/smartups.html). The APC runs pretty cool as well. The SMS-1 will be open in the front, rear, and bottom, but there won't be free space above the SMS-1. There will be about 7" of open air right under the SMS-1. However, does anyone see a problem if there is basially no free ventilation space above the SMS-1? My SMS-1 runs very cool but at this time it's in an open space with nothing above it.

2. I plan on rack mounting a vent panel underneath the SMS-1 (an MA VT vent panel - http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/panels/vpanels.htm). The top of the vent panel is about 0.5" to 0.75" deep. The SMS-1's feet get on the way of the vent panel. I'd like to remove the SMS-1's front feet. The manual didn't say that the feet can be removed. I'm afraid that there might be a nut or bolt inside the SMS-1 that each foot screws into. If there is a nut/bolt, I'm afraid that removing a foot's screw will result in the nut/bolt loose inside the SMS-1 causing a potential short. I say this, because I recently had a similar problem with another device (fortunately, one that I can easily open and repair). Anyway, has anyone removed the feet at the bottom of the SMS-1?

Thanks

randman

Hi,
1) Should be fine.
2) Nothing inside. I just removed the screw.
Thanks,
Curt

I have a question on how to use the SMS-1's rear IR input.

I use an IR distribution system composed of a Xantech CB60 Connecting Block(http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_cb60.htm). I have a Xantech
291-80 IR receiver (http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_29180.htm)
connected to the CB60 connecting block. I have IR emitters connected to the connecting block's outputs and the other ends are pasted onto the IR sensors on the front of my various devices.

I'd prefer not to place a stick-on IR emmiter on the front of the SMS-1.
I tried connecting a 3.5mm mono cable from my Xantech connecting block to the SMS-1's IR input. However, the SMS-1 wouldn't respond to remote commands.

Has anyone successfully used the IR input in the back of the SMS-1? If so, what equipment are you using?

Thanks.

Hi,
1) Should be fine.
2) Nothing inside. I just removed the screw.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks for the quick reply!! About to remove the feet...

Hello,

I have a V-1012-B (built Jan 25, 1991) with a 12" floor-firing passive radiator that needs replacing due to separation of the cone and rubber surround across approximately 6 radial inches. It is my understanding that the original passive has been long out of production, and that a potential substitute (different mount pattern) is no longer a stocked item at Velodyne. Any suggestions? This powered subwoofer has served me well and is otherwise in perfect condition, so I would like to repair. I've tried delicately re-gluing the rubber surround to the cone with rubber cement, but this has not held long. I'm wary of replacing with a third party radiator, as I'm unsure of the proper weighting, etc. I noticed that the currently installed radiator uses an internal elastic band secured between the radiator and the cabinet ceiling to provide appropriate resistance. Any help (Curt?) is appreciated. Thanks!

Hey I had a question -- I was thinking about velodyne subs and I keep hearing "get SVS its much better"...I was looking at 2 models, the DLS-5000R - 23-120hz/600 watts rms... and the spl-1200r - 22-120Hz/1000 watts rms...also was looking at the upcoming SVS PB12-NSD..I like the sub to be a lil loud, but I'm really more interested in bass quality, what am I to do..also like the low frequencys as well..I can find a SPL-1200r pretty cheap compared to its MSRP as well as the DLS-5000R..also heard the DLS-4000R and was blown away by its quality compared to my infinity ps12..hard time imagining SVS being as good as people say

Wow, something went really wrong last night.

I've got a Velodyne DPS-10 subwoofer and I was messing around with my wiring and decided to rewire my entire home theatre setup. When I finished the job, I turned on my sub and all of a sudden this LOUD HUM (almost loud enough to shake my room) just comes out of nowhere. I do the usual thing, I unplug the subwoofer and cables and try to nail down the origin of the problem.

My Velodyne is plugged into a Monster SW200 Subwoofer Powercenter and I have Monster THX Ultra RCA cables going into the sub being filtered by the Powercenter.

I unplugged absolutely everything and was able to figure out that everytime I attached a cable to the RCA jacks on the back of the subwoofer, I would get this super loud audio hum. This would happen EVEN if the cables weren't connected to anything! I tried doing the same thing with a spare pair of Acoustic Research RCA cables and got the same problem.

When I pushed down hard on the RCA's attached to the back of my Velodyne, the hum would go away. When the sub was turned on with nothing plugged into the back, there would be virtually no hum whatsoever. I tried this with and without the SW200.

Should I send it in for repair?

Contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt

Hello,

I have a V-1012-B (built Jan 25, 1991) with a 12" floor-firing passive radiator that needs replacing due to separation of the cone and rubber surround across approximately 6 radial inches. It is my understanding that the original passive has been long out of production, and that a potential substitute (different mount pattern) is no longer a stocked item at Velodyne. Any suggestions? This powered subwoofer has served me well and is otherwise in perfect condition, so I would like to repair. I've tried delicately re-gluing the rubber surround to the cone with rubber cement, but this has not held long. I'm wary of replacing with a third party radiator, as I'm unsure of the proper weighting, etc. I noticed that the currently installed radiator uses an internal elastic band secured between the radiator and the cabinet ceiling to provide appropriate resistance. Any help (Curt?) is appreciated. Thanks!

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,

I have installed 2.2 software on my DD-15. I would like to go back to 2.0 to test something but i can't find 2.0 software on Velodyne web site.

Does anybody have the 2.0 software ?

Serge.

Hello,

I currently have a F1800XR subwoofer (that I love) which I believe has a 250 watt amp and a 18" woofer from the ULD series. I will be moving to a bigger space soon and would like to upgrade to something with more output (6db at least). I would really like to know the XMax and efficiency of the driver so I can get a idea of what I would need to make a good improvement over it. I am considering DIY as well a commercial offerings.

thank you,
-Reinyn

Sent you a PM.
Curt

Velodyne SPL-1200 II Reliability A Huge Disappointment...

About two years ago, I purchased a Velodyne SPL-1200 Series II from Good Guys for $1700. I loved the piano grade finish and thought this was one of the best sounding subs I'd ever heard; tight wonderful low, accurate bass. I've been using it with a Denon AVR 2700 receiver and bought it to replace an older Infinity BU-2 12" sub. I'd always wanted a Velodyne sub, although it was years before I could afford one.

Unfortunately, my bliss was short lived. Using the sub infrequently (I live in a third floor apartment), the amplifier failed less than a year after purchase. The volume pot went out, causing the sub to see a signal- the blue light would turn on, but nothing would happen. I sent the amp in to Velodyne, and they replaced the volume control. I reinstalled the amp but now there appeared be more noise in my overall system while the sub was hooked up. I called Velodyne back, but they said it didn't make sense and sub couldn't be responsible.

About a year later; (two weeks ago), the amplifier failed again. This time, both the volume and internal cross-over failed. The amp would stay on full volume, regardless of the subwoofer's setting. Also, it would only work when switched to "subwoofer direct," not "internal crossover."

I called Velodyne again. I was extremely pleased when they said they would replace it with a "new" amplifier. I disassembled it and drove the amp down to Morgan Hill, 50 miles away.

Initially, they replaced it with a unit that looked like someone had pried it from the cabinet with a screw driver. I asked for another, and they gave me one that was better (not saying much); all the screw holes are mangled, like it was originally forced in a cabinet with misaligned screw holes. The back-side rubber seal is also degraded. It was obviously very used and had been repaired. I finally decided 'oh-well' and drove home. I cleaned the cobwebs and dirt off and installed it.

While this one works and it's nice to have a working sub again, it doesn't seem to turn on as early- it seems to take more input to trigger. (but it does appear that noise in my system is now gone).

Wanting to know my options, I called Velodyne again this morning. I asked if I could buy a new SPL-1200 II amp. They said they are discontinued. I then asked if I could buy a SPL-1200R amp for this cabinet. They said they couldn't do that.

If/When this one fails and Velodyne has no replacements, I will have no choice but to have this latest amp repaired. Or, buy a new sub.

I appreciate Velodyne's willingness to repair and replace (even with used/b-stock components), and I understand what it means to have a discontinued product. But given the price I paid (about $1850 with tax) and relatively little run-time I've gotten out of it, it all somehow seems inadequate. I've also found several Internet posts by people having similar issues.

Thanks for reading...

Thanks for the reply Curt, I've sent an email out.

Hopefully my problems get fixed quick! :)

-Vince

Cold-Steel,

It sounds as if you've managed to break the ground on the RCA connectors at the back of the unit. While not typical this can sometimes occur when you are connecting very tight RCA connectors due to the amount of pressure and stress required to get them seated.
To confirm this theory you could connect the unit using the speaker level inputs, if the problem goes away it is the RCA connector or a bad cable.

Cold-Steel,

It sounds as if you've managed to break the ground on the RCA connectors at the back of the unit. While not typical this can sometimes occur when you are connecting very tight RCA connectors due to the amount of pressure and stress required to get them seated.
To confirm this theory you could connect the unit using the speaker level inputs, if the problem goes away it is the RCA connector or a bad cable.

That sounds about right, I've done some experimenting and here are my results.

1) With the subwoofer powered on and nothing else connected, there is no audible hum whatsoever.
2) With the subwoofer powered on and my fingers touching the RCA inputs, there is an audible hum.
3) With the subwoofer powered on and Monster THX Standard RCA's plugged in, there is an audible hum which amplifies when I touch the corresponding ends with my fingers. Same results when using Acoustic Research standard cables.
4) With the subwoofer powered on and Monster THX Ultra RCA's plugged in, there is an extremely LOUD audible hum that nearly shakes my entire room.
5) With the subwoofer powered on and speaker cable connected into the left input, there is no audible hum whatsoever even when I touch the opposite ends with my fingers.

I've also noticed that the RCA connectors on the Velodyne seem a bit loose. I can move them very slightly.

Stupid Monster THX Ultra cables. If the quality wasn't so good I wouldn't use the buggers. Man, why do they have to be so tight on the connectors!

Any suggestions would be much appreciated Curt. :)

Hi,
See my last PM to you.
Curt

Excellent! New RCA connector is on its way and will be here in a couple of days! Customer service over the phone was excellent and I'm looking forward to being rid of this problem once and for all!

Special thanks to Dave and Curt, hopefully all is resolved soon!

-Vince

I have a Velodyne F1800R II in a home theater. I understand that it has the model's next generation amp in it (FSR18) SN: 57317019 Mfg: 11/97

They have started making a crackling noise even with all the line leverl audio cables unplugged. It often does it when first turned on with or without an audio feed. Turning any and all adjustment knobs has no effect.

Jarring the unit gets rid of it for a few hours or a day, and then it works perfectly.

It sounds excactly like the sound of many firecrackers being exploded a block away. It gets louder slowly, until I turn the unit off, and then it takes about 2 or 3 seconds for it to diminish.

Any ideas? I have a basic background in electronics. (I can find a cold solder joint.) or replace a component. My buddy has an occiliscope and can trace a circuit with the schematic (which I don't have).

Smitty
631-345-0054

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne's service manager, David Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

I will be very grateful if somebody can summarize how to set up my new SPL-1200R. I have HK 235 and B&W 603

Thanks a lot.

Hi,
In your A/V receiver go to 'speaker set up'. Designate all your speakers as 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. Select 80hz as receiver's crossover. Run a 'rca' cable from the subwoofer output jack on your receiver to the 'lfe' input jack on the Velodyne. On the Velodyne turn the crossover knob all the way to the left (120hz). Put the auto on/off to the active position. Put the phase at '0'. Once subwoofer is positioned plug the included mic into the mic jack. Locate the mic on a table or chair near listening position. Turn Velodyne power switch on and press the 'eq' button on the remote. The sub will run a series of sweeps and 'eq' itself. You may now unplug the mic and store it. Your system is now ready to play. With the remote make minor up or down changes to the volume. We recommend no more then 5 or 6 pushes up or as many as required down. If you find you need much more volume, find the volume control for the 'subwoofer' jack in your receiver and raise it about 3/4's of the way up. Most receivers when doing 'auto level set up' will bring the subwoofer level down much too low. If your room is small to medium and no openings this sub will do a superb job on the bass. The presets and other remote buttons are explained in the manual. If the subwoofer has been used it would be wise to reset it before doing any of the above. Reset is accomplished by turning the sub on, and aiming the remote at the sub and pressing in sequence, buttons; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. Hope this helps.
BTW I do this much better over the phone so call if you have questions.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi, Curt,

Thank you very much for this thorough description. I forgot to mention that I bought also the RC SPL meter and the Avia disc. Please add to this sequence of steps if/when/how to use them.

Best Regards.

Sorry, I don't use either. For volume, use your ears. Typically bass will need to be 5-10db louder than the speakers, to sound correct. Human hearing drops (way) off at low frequencies, so adjust to taste. Maybe someone else can advise you regarding the Avia. Good luck.
Thanks,
Curt

hi,

i recently just purchased a velodyne spl model subwoofer.

when setting up the sub and running the auto EQ function i am noticing some crackling that kind of sounds like small little pops coming from the speaker when it's doing its frequency sweeps. it doesn't happen on all the sweeps, only randomly on some of them.

has anyone experienced this or know why this might be happening. i don't seem to hear this crackle during music playback but it still bothers me given i paid a lot of money for this sub.

thanks,
jacob

Today when i started to play a DVD my DD12 sub made a series of popping sounds than buzzed and shut off. Now it won't turn on, yet the other sub that I have daisy-chained to it works fine. Is my less than 2 yr old sub toast? Any info or ideas appreciated.

Hi,
Sent you a PM with service info.
Curt

Ok thanks

I just received my DD-15 on Friday and have had the weekend to play around. First, let me comment that the DD-15 in cherry is absolutely gorgous, and produces WAY more bass than I could have ever imagined - previously I was using large tower speakers with built-in subs (200w, 2x10" drivers each) and the DD-15 positively pulverizes them. And the bass is so CLEAN! I've been to CES and CEDIA many times and tried out many ssytems and I honestly feel now like I'm sitting on a ButtKicker. :-)

Anyways, on to a few questions.

1) Is it normal for the sub to make a small popping sound when turning on and off using the auto-on function?

2) Additionally, the auto-on feature seems to require a fairly high amount of bass before it switches on. I'm using a Marantz SR9600 receiver with the sub channel set to -1db and the DD-15 set to a volume level of just 8 - and I'm getting loads of bass - so I don't imagine that my input signal is too low.

3) If I turn the sub on and off with the rest of my system, I've noticed that even when "fully on" it seems to sit in a standby mode until it senses the first quantity of bass... and then makes the same soft "pop" as it engages the amplifier for the very first time. Is there any way to make it come on FULLY when it's powered on, and not have it wait?

4) Assuming that I opt to simply leave it on all the time (which I have at this point since it seems the cleanest) what sort of additional power usage would I be looking at compared to the auto-on standby mode?

5) My room has an incredibly large and annoying number of modes that makes bass reproduction very difficult. At first I had created a nearly perfectly flat response line for my favorite seat, but when I moved the mic around to other seats I found that the areas I had tweaked turned into huge peaks or valleys there. What's the best thing to do in this situation - concentrate only on the frequencies that affect everyone? For instance I've had to turn down the 15-25hz range since it's highly emphasized throughout the room, but other trouble spots like 35hz, 65hz and 80hz vary greatly depending where I am.

6) Regarding the subsonic filter, is 15hz the best (safest) setting? I can't imagine that I would ever want 5hz, but is there anything interesting going on at 10hz?

7) What's the real difference between "movie" and "music" mode?

Thanks!

Daniel,

1) A "pop" is normal when toggling power.

2) You could try a "Y" splitter going to the sub. This seems to work for most people. Another option is to hook up a trigger to the RS-232 port and change start up in the Velodyne to "waiting for 12 volt trigger".

3) I have an MX850 and have added Velodyne presets as part of a macro to every start up function on the MX850. For TV, I added preset 2 as part of that macro, and the sub turns on. Same with listening to music, I then use preset 4 as part of that particular macro...etc..

4) Velodyne recommends leaving the sub off when not in use, and unplugging when away from the home for extended periods of time.

5) Pretty much your call here. This behavior is normal. Most would recommend getting things perfect for the "sweet" spot and customize an unused preset if you want to tweak for listeners when those seats are occupied.

7) Music mode is flat and has the least amount of distortion. Theater/music preset is set at 8 for this reason. Another words, bass guitar,bass drums etc, sound extremely clean and pure, bass freq are not distorted.

Hello,

I'd really appreciate it if you could help me out in this situation. Last month, I ordered a pair of CHT-14 satellite speakers from your website. Upon receiving them, one of the speakers was obviously defective. The tweeter was not nearly as loud as the other speaker, and sounded muffled. As a result, I sent the defective speaker back to Velodyne for repair. Today, I just received the speaker back, and to my astonishment, it had the exact same problem. It is definitely not normal, and I've had my audiophile friends listen to it too. It seems to be simply a defective tweeter.

What frustrates me is how Velodyne could send back this speaker with the exact same problem? Is it customary to test speakers before you send them out? The difference is night and day when you compare the working speaker and the defective one. In addition, the speaker came back with small scratches on parts of the exterior, and a discolored Velodyne sticker on the grill (it should have a silver background but this one is yellow). The serial number is 623311001. My experiences do not seem typical, and I would just like any help you can give me in resolving this issue.

It's been over a month since I first bought these speakers, and I haven't had a single hour of use due to the defective tweeter issue. Is it possible to send me a new speaker first, and then have me send back the old defective speaker upon receiving the new one? I'm honestly tired of waiting for a working speaker, and would like to avoid having to wait for shipping back and forth yet again. Thank you for your time and help!

Thanks,
Marcus

PS. I'm posting this here in hopes of a response, since I'll be in meetings all day tomorrow and won't be able to call customer service during normal working hours.

Daniel,

3) I have an MX850 and have added Velodyne presets as part of a macro to every start up function on the MX850. For TV, I added preset 2 as part of that macro, and the sub turns on. Same with listening to music, I then use preset 4 as part of that particular macro...etc..

So selecting a preset will "activate" the amp? Any idea how quickly after powering on you can do this? (Sorry, I'm just not close to the sub right now).


7) Music mode is flat and has the least amount of distortion. Theater/music preset is set at 8 for this reason. Another words, bass guitar,bass drums etc, sound extremely clean and pure, bass freq are not distorted.

I have heard it mentioned, maybe earlier in this thread, that the "movie" side of the scale will offer a bit more "chest thumping" to explosions and is, all things considered, still extremely low distortion. True, false? I certainly don't want to negate the DD's extremely clean reproduction, but I also don't want to dampen the movie experience....

So selecting a preset will "activate" the amp? Any idea how quickly after powering on you can do this? (Sorry, I'm just not close to the sub right now).

Yes, a preset will activate the amp. It only takes a few seconds.


I have heard it mentioned, maybe earlier in this thread, that the "movie" side of the scale will offer a bit more "chest thumping" to explosions and is, all things considered, still extremely low distortion. True, false? I certainly don't want to negate the DD's extremely clean reproduction, but I also don't want to dampen the movie experience....

You are correct. Even with a setting of 1 in the Theater/music preset, the distortion is still pretty minimal, but offers the most distortion available. However when listening to music, you don't want distortion, and a setting of 8 is preferred.

When you read of people asking about musical subs, what they are looking for is a sub that doesn't pump out to much distortion. Some people prefer a musical sub mostly because they listen to music more than they watch movies, or music listening is of higher priority. A "musical" sub offers them a tighter, cleaner sound for music over a movie type sub.

With the DD series subs, you get the best of both worlds. Using the music preset (most only use preset 4) when listening to music gives you a musical sub, and preset 2 (or whichever preset is preferred, set up correctly) gives you a home theater/movie sub.

On the movie preset, I've read where some people still prefer to use an 8 setting in the Theater/music preset. Personally, I use 4.

Curt,
Got my DD-18 restored at Velodyne this weekend.
Thanks Curt, Dave Santos, and especially to Pete, and that great final QC guy (sorry forgot your name).
Your customer sevice is as awsome as your product!
tFH

Hi,
Thanks so much for the kind words.
Curt

I have owned since new a Velodyne F1000 subwoofer that has worked flawlessly since the original purchase date. Recently, I have noticed a crackling-hissing noise coming from the amp regarless if the attached pre-amp is on. The unit also has a burnt smell coming from the rear. After removing the amp unit from the case, the smell seems to be coming from one of two 4700uf capacitors. I have written and e-mail to Velodyne and they indicated that the unit is too old for repair. I would like to salvage the subwoofer as the driver is still in excellent condition. Is it possible to replace just the amp section or replace the caps (if that is what the problem is) with new ones? Any help or suggestions from the forum would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
We don't have any parts or amplifiers for the F-1000 and since the unit is a servo feedback design, you can't just replace the amplifier with something else. This small subwoofer was designed for accurate (music) reproduction in a small room. We try to offer trade-in's when we are unable to service an older product. I would contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851 and see what they can offer you.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi!! Curt!! I have a velodyne 10/12 for a while!! The front driver is a bit indented inwards? does it effect performance/
If so, is it fixable? extractable?
thnx

Hi,
If it sounds ok, I wouldn't worry. If you're referring to the middle part, the dust cover, it would have no effect.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt! It is middle round part, about 1.5 inch circle in the middle of driver cone!

That's the 'dust cap', it will have no effect.
Curt

Waiting for a response to marcusworkmail's post # 2562. :)

Waiting for a response to marcusworkmail's post # 2562. :)

Thanks for the bump :) Curt has actually been PM'ing me about this. Sounds like this is a very rare issue, as they usually don't have problems with tweeters. I've tested both the good and bad speaker on the exact same wire (regularly hooked up to a front floorstander), so it's definitely not something in my system. I'm just hoping to get this resolved quickly so I can finally have a 5.1 system, and I'll keep you updated :)

Hi everyone,

This is my first (now second) post here. I just recently bought a Velodyne CT-120 sub for $160.00 I think it was a good deal. Well, coming from no sub at all, I'm very happy with it actually. The only problem is no manual. I looked on the Velodyne site, searched Google for hours and can't find the manual in PDF format. Could someone point me to a link or email me the manual? I’m currently in the tweaking phase to match the sub with my existing speakers and I would like to know exactly what each knob and switch is for and what the manual recommends.

Thank in advance!
Bob Ross

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851) for a manual. BTW the CHT-12 is the same manual.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
BTW the CHT-12 is the same manual.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Dude you rock, thank you!

Hook up Options for Velodyne CT100
All:
I need some info on hookup options for a year 2000 Velodyne CT100.
I have been running the front speaker leads through the subwoofer, using the crossover in the unit. In the current location for the SW, this is acceptable, but the mass of wires running back and forth is not what I would like to see.

The SW has a couple of "inputs" and "outputs", left and right, that the manual states are for preamp outputs, but the pic in the manual also the outputs going out to an amplifier.

I'm using an Onkyo TX-DS575 to power the system and it has a single RCA output labled "Subwoofer Preout". I'm assuming this is the line level signal that uses the crossover in the Onkyo.

To get it into the SW from the receiver , I would have to either plug it into only one SW input (left or right) or use a splitter and go to both left and right.

Any opinions on which X-over is best to use, and how I would go about getting the line level signal in, if I wanted to go that way?
It would give me an easier way to position the thing if I could shed the 4 speaker wires.

thanks to all replies,
nw

Hi,
Yes you should use the 'line level' hook up for best results. Run a 'rca' cable from your receiver's subwoofer preout jack to the Velodyne. At the Velodyne use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks. This completes your wiring hook-up. In your receiver's 'speaker set-up' menu designate all your speakers as 'small' and select the crossover in your receiver, usually 80hz. At the Velodyne put the crossover at 120hz and place the crossover switch in the 'out or bypass' position. Adjust the Velodyne's volume to blend with your speakers.
Hope this helps.
Curt

Hi,
At the Velodyne use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Am I ok to use this "Y" splitter on my CT-120? I thought I read somewhere that only connecting the white Mono input on the sub in was required and not to connect both L & R inputs. Just wanted to confirm with you.

Cheers,
BR

Hi,
Yes use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. This allows you to back off on the Velodyne's volume control a bit and that's a good thing.
Curt

I have decided I want to add a 2nd spl1200 to my system, the price is right etc. I have the r and this is the non r ver 2. room forces them behind my 2 mains, no choice :( . Will I be able to set this up ? any general comment appreciated. I will NOT sell my 1200r, not an option :) . I use this for music, 85% of the time, usually in its native mode, concert DVDs my favorite but 2 channel stuff mostly

Thanks
Mark

my set up
Sony STR-DA9000es
Sony NC555es
2 Adcom GFA555 bridged 1 for left 1 for right
Velodyne SPL1200r sub
Panamax 5500 AC Regenerator
JBL 250Ti fronts
JBL 120Ti surround rears
JBL L20T3 surrounds
JBL L20T Center

Hi Curt and others,

I'm going to connect my CHT-12R behind a SMS-1, is there any advice (to do or to avoid) in doing so?

I have also read a lot about the setup and I'm still not sure how I will have to do the right setup for polarity and phase. Is there a step by step setup to achieve this correctly?

Thanks, -- Dirk

I have a UDL 12 which now has a broken cone . Is it worth having it fixed?
Thanks

Curt C,
I hooked it up with a splitter and so far so good.
Need to run a bass heavy DVD to really test it, but I think I'm good.

Thanks for your reply,

nw

Last Saturday, my family and I watched The Incredibles at our normal volume, about -10dB from reference, and all was well. The next day I turned on my system to watch the tv and all I got from my sub was static, absolutely no punch or anything. I then decided to send a signal from my receiver to the sub and I got nothing. Any ideas what could have caused this, can anyone help?

My sub is a DLS-5000R in a 6000 cubic foot room and I purchased it last year, so it is still under warranty, also, can someone give me the number to Velodyne to arrange for my sub to be fixed?

Thanks

Curt will probably answer you after the holiday. Or you can scan this thread. I believe the contact info has been given out before.

Hi,
The number (Tuesday or later), for service is 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. 6000 cubic feet calls for at least a pair of DLS-5000R's. I'd certainly consider adding another one.
Thanks,
Curt

Heh, The Incredibles sure is one equipment-killing movie. I blew a woofer on my front right speaker after watching that for the first time, and I've heard lots of stories since...

Thanks Curt, I do plan to add another sub in the near future (future being the key word) but the 5000R does put a smile on my face for now. I am sure once I get a second sub, I will get an even bigger smile :D

Daniel, this wasn't the first time I have watched The Incredibles with my system so I am sure that the movie shouldn't have been the culprit, but you never know ;)

Hello,

I'd really appreciate it if you could help me out in this situation. Last month, I ordered a pair of CHT-14 satellite speakers from your website. Upon receiving them, one of the speakers was obviously defective. The tweeter was not nearly as loud as the other speaker, and sounded muffled. As a result, I sent the defective speaker back to Velodyne for repair. Today, I just received the speaker back, and to my astonishment, it had the exact same problem. It is definitely not normal, and I've had my audiophile friends listen to it too. It seems to be simply a defective tweeter.

.
.
etc
.
.




I just want to publicly thank Curt and the whole Velodyne team for all their help! They have provided exceptional service, and they've definitely earned a lifetime customer. I just received a replacement pair of CHT-14 speakers, and am extremely happy with them. Curt, I've sent you an email detailing what I found when comparing all four speakers. I believe that I just got unlucky and initially had a pair of non-matching speakers (one with very high tweeter output, one with very low output). The new pair sounds great, and will work perfectly in my room.

To anyone considering satellite speakers, these speakers are a steal right now straight from Velodyne. I'd highly recommend them! I'm happy to say that what other here have said is definitely true...Velodyne has the best customer service! Words can't explain how happy I am to have my 5.1 setup complete...Thanks again!

Thanks for the feedback. As I stated earlier we had not heard of your experience before and I'm sorry for the inconvience you experienced. I too believe these satellites are a real steal. Fact is I picked up an extra set myself, too good to pass up. Thanks for letting us make this right.
Enjoy,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Just want to say that I am very happy with the performance of of the DLS-5000. Would love to have a DD-15 or DD18 they must be assume.

Hi guys,
Perhaps this issues has already been covered in this thread,
but reading through 87 pages of posts? :o

Here’s my issue;
When adding an SPL-R800 to my ECI3 – MG12 combo,
what would be the better option;
1. Simply adding the sub and connect it to the “speaker out” of the amp?
2. Looping through the sub’s X-over via the amp’s pre-out / main-in?

Option 1 seems to keep the system’s character in tact, as much as possible.
Option 2 seems to relieve the amp from the exhausting bass demand from the speakers.

What does your experience tell you?
Should you require more info from me to give any solid advice, please let me know and I’d be happy to provide it to you.

Many thanks for your replies.
Roy.

Hi,
I suggest you try both ways and see which sounds best to you. Personally I would use method #2. I don't like the results of Maggies trying to play deep bass. If you play at lower levels, it's less of an issue.
Thanks,
Curt

I am putting together a home theater room in a house I am building. The room is 13x18 with 9' ceilings and it is pretty much fully enclosed. I have a 7.0 NHT system that I am putting together, but I NEED a subwoofer. My main speakers are the NHT Classic Three bookshelf speakers. I have been looking at their NHT U2 subwoofer system, but I am also really looking at Velodynes SPL-1200R or 1500R. For my home theater I REALLY like bass you can feel and lots of it, but I of course I also want the bass to match up with the speakers and sound good. I am torn between the two subwoofers....... Should I go with the 1200r or 1500r over the U2(which are two 12" drivers in two sealed 14" enclosures). Would the 1500R sound fine with bookshelf speakers? The bookshelf speakers have 6.5" woofers so I was wondering if the 1500R(given that it is a little slower than the 1200R) would sound and match well with my other speakers. THANKS!

Hi,
For bass you can really feel, I would go with the SPL-1500R. It will be a great match with your NHT speakers. I would cross over at 80hz. The SPL-1500R is not slower than the Spl-1200R. They both operate at the same speed and very accurately so. If you have questions, call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi, I suggest you try both ways and see which sounds best to you. Personally I would use method #2. I don't like the results of Maggies trying to play deep bass. If you play at lower levels, it's less of an issue. Thanks, Curt

Hi Curt,
Many thanks for your reply. :)

The reason why I'm seriously reconsiddering a sub, again, is a combinatin of;
* the lack of oohmpf from small Maggies,
* the necessity to play at modest levels, due to nervous neighbours. :(

When playing my MG12s at modest level, bass quality is quite OK.
I assume that this will even improve when all my bass traps under construction have finally been finished.
After that, my next step will be auditiong an SPL-R sub in my room and find out if it adds what I'm hoping for.

Keep you informed.

Best regards,
Roy.

Well, so far I've been loving my DD-15... after spending a bit of time reading about what all of the features do, I recently did a second calibration and think I have everything just about perfect. However, what's still ticking my brain is activation of the sub.

Due to the popping sound made when powering on and off I'm not all that thrilled with the auto activation feature, and so have been leaving it on constantly. However, I would prefer to turn it on and off with my whole system, where the pop is no issue while a dozen other relays are making noise. Discrete power codes would make this easy, but what's still an issue is that even after turning on it remains in standby mode until the first bass signal is received where, instead of the first low note, you get the pop. Or, in the case of very low volume levels, possibly no sub at all. The perfectionist in me doesn't really like that.

Another poster suggested that selecting a preset would activate the amp, but on mine that does nothing - it still always waits for the first input.

Does anyone know of a way to force the amp to activate when powering on, before the first input signal? If this has something to do with the unit figuring out which of the inputs is being used, perhaps that state can be saved when using discrete on/off, rather than toggle power, in future firmware?

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi Curt,

I would be highly interested if you have a solution to automatically power on the sub even at (very) low volumes.

I already asked a few posts ago... at the moment the only solution I have is to power on manually, but my wife and children often forget to do so, enjoying (that's not really the word :rolleyes: ) poor sound.

Thanks,
-- Dirk

Hi,
What model subwoofer? Some have 12V trigger turn on. Otherwise use a "Y" splitter into both inputs and raise the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer jack to near maximum and back off on the subwoofer's volume.
Hope this helps.
Curt

(Sorry that this is cross-posted, but a friend just pointed me at this Thread)

I am using a Velodyne SMS-1 parametric equalizer to equalize three subs and it does a great job. BUT -- two of the subs have "auto-on" circuitry to turn them on and during the calibration procedure, the SMS-1 will NOT cause them to turn on even though the amps and pre/pro are turned on and the pre/pro is set to the correct source. I must put in a DVD and switch the pre/pro to THX 5.1 in order for them to trigger(can then turn the DVD player off) and THEN do the calibration if it doesn't take longer than 10 minutes. HOWEVER, if I am moving the subs around and fiddling with the phase controls, it takes time and after ten minutes or so, the two subs with auto-on turn off.

QUESTION: is this behavior typical of the SMS-1 and most subs with auto-on circuitry?

Thoughts, opinions??

MikeSp

In working with setting up my SMS-1 with three subs, I decided to start over at one point and "restore the defaults." When I did the "890" to restore the defaults, it zeroed all 6 presets. I figured that when I restored the defaults, it would restore presets 1, 2, 3 & 4 to their original factory settings and zero out presets 5 & 6 instead of zeroing ALL 6 presets.

QUESTION: Should using "890" have zeroed all 6 presets? AND how do I get the factory settings back for presets 1 thorugh 4 back again?

MikeSp

Hi,
I sent you PM's
Curt

(Sorry that this is cross-posted, but a friend just pointed me at this Thread)

I am using a Velodyne SMS-1 parametric equalizer to equalize three subs and it does a great job. BUT -- two of the subs have "auto-on" circuitry to turn them on and during the calibration procedure, the SMS-1 will NOT cause them to turn on even though the amps and pre/pro are turned on and the pre/pro is set to the correct source. I must put in a DVD and switch the pre/pro to THX 5.1 in order for them to trigger(can then turn the DVD player off) and THEN do the calibration if it doesn't take longer than 10 minutes. HOWEVER, if I am moving the subs around and fiddling with the phase controls, it takes time and after ten minutes or so, the two subs with auto-on turn off.

QUESTION: is this behavior typical of the SMS-1 and most subs with auto-on circuitry?

Thoughts, opinions??

MikeSp

For unknown reasons, the above-described problems no longer exist at this moment in time -- hopefully they are gone for good and it was just a hiccup. ALSO, thanks to Curt for clearing up a few questions--GREAT SUPPORT!!!

MikeSp

Hello all ,I now have a paradigm PDR 8 sub & Looking to upgrade to a SPL-800R Or a SPL-1000R
My room is 14x 25 but is shared with a dining room so the sub fires across the 14" Not long the 25>
Will the SPL-800R be good in my room ?

Hi,
Unlike speakers, the sub has to energize the whole area. You will need at least the SPL-1200R or better yet the SPL-1500R.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks curt but the SPL 1500R is to large for the space I was looking into a small footprint sub -I was origanaly thinking I could get a SPL800R But thought the 10 wold be better
Have a look at my pix
http://www.audiocircle.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=1183&pos=5
http://www.audiocircle.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=1183&pos=8
I am not looking for great lows in the dining room just the livingroom area.
My set up now is Paradigm 40's with a Paradigm PDR8 sub
This sub sounds OK for movies but lacks with music
I know the proper set up should be set the 40's to small & set the crossover on my denon 3805 to 80 and when I use the mic from the denon to get everything as closer to 0DB the subs volume is at about %45 But fof music I turn it up to about %75 Or more AND I set the speakers to Large and the crossover to 150 TO me This sounds best

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi All,
I will be at the CEDIA home theater trade show in Denver and back next Tuesday Sept. 19th. Anyone attending the show be sure to stop by and say "Hi".
Good Listening, and Take Care.
Curt - Velodyne Acoustics

I'm sure most everyone here as seen the loopback graphs showing the FR of the SMS-1 at various HPF settings, for example, here is the 5hz setting:

http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index...getfile&id=5953

Is this inherent to the electronics or an intentional part of the firmware. I'm also curious to find out from Curt or anyone else at Velo if something can/is being done about the sharp rolloff that starts at 20hz and to move the knee of the filter lower?

I have a Velodyne CHT-12 that is soon to be moved to my surround speaker setup. I will be using the speaker level inputs on the Velo and using the 80HZ crossover point. My question is will the variable crossover in the sub still be active and have to be set to 80HZ also or is it bypassed completely and the 80HZ speaker level crossover substituted when using the high level inputs on the sub ? Emailed Velodyne a couple of days ago on this but no reply so I thought I'd ask the experts here.
Thanks,
Bob

Emailed Velodyne a couple of days ago on this but no reply so I thought I'd ask the experts here.
Thanks,
Bob

Sorry that I cannot help, but Velo tech support may be short until CEDIA is over -- Curt is there and probably others from Velodyne.

MikeSp

Sorry that I cannot help, but Velo tech support may be short until CEDIA is over -- Curt is there and probably others from Velodyne.

MikeSp

I thought that might be the case...
Maybe someone else knows the answer.
It would make sense that the variable crossover is bypassed completely using the high level inputs and 80HZ and lower is fed to the sub and over 80HZ is fed to the regular speakers but there's nothing in the manual that specifically addresses this. I will play with the settings and see if it makes a difference if I don't find out on Monday when the Velo gets moved to the surrounds.
Thanks,
Bob

Luna,

Reading your first post sounds like you want to use the speaker level inputs and your sub input at the same time on a surround system.

If you are going with a 2 channel system, send the full signal to the subwoofer via the "speakers in" terminals, use the subs crossover, then output to the speakers.

If you are using a 5.1 system, use the crossover in your receiver/preamp to relieve the low frequency load from your speakers and route it to the sub. On the sub, use the "sub in" terminal from the receiver. Set the sub so that the "crossover" in the sub is in the out position.(provided it has this adjustment as you don't want to send the sub frequencies through two sets of crossovers.

Luna,

Reading your first post sounds like you want to use the speaker level inputs and your sub input at the same time on a surround system.

If you are going with a 2 channel system, send the full signal to the subwoofer via the "speakers in" terminals, use the subs crossover, then output to the speakers.

If you are using a 5.1 system, use the crossover in your receiver/preamp to relieve the low frequency load from your speakers and route it to the sub. On the sub, use the "sub in" terminal from the receiver. Set the sub so that the "crossover" in the sub is in the out position.(provided it has this adjustment as you don't want to send the sub frequencies through two sets of crossovers.

I'm going to use the Velo on the rear channels of my 7.1 surround system. I have the rear surround speakers set to large on my receiver so I get the full range being sent to the surround speakers and will use the sub's high level( speaker) inputs and outputs to drive the sub and feed the surrounds. The sub has a switchable 80HZ/100HZ high pass filter that I'll be using to feed 80HZ and lower to the sub and 80HZ and higher to the surrounds. My question is....does the variable low pass crossover in the sub still affect the frequency response of the sub in this configuration or is that crossover bypassed when using the high level inputs to it. In other words if I use set the subs variable crossover to say 100 HZ will there be a overlap in the response between the 80HZ highpass filter and the 100HZ setting on the variable crossover ( sub working from 100HZ and lower, speakers working from 80HZ and higher) or is the variable crossover bypassed completely by using the speaker level connections on the sub and 80HZ and above passed to the speakers and 80HZ and below to the sub automatically. If not I will have to set the variable crossover on the sub to 80HZ also. Don't want 2 crossover points fighting each other. Sorry for the redundant posting..Hopefully my question makes more sense?

luna,

To start with, crossovers are not like brick walls where frequencies at say 80 hz kills everything below 80 hz. Its a gradual drop off depending on the slope of the filter.

The high pass filter is what is directed to the speakers following the sub.

The low pass filter is where the sub picks up.

In your example of setting the low pass filter at 100 and the high pass at 80, you're likely to have a peak rather than a dip (provided your in phase and are not canceling each other).

luna,

To start with, crossovers are not like brick walls where frequencies at say 80 hz kills everything below 80 hz. Its a gradual drop off depending on the slope of the filter.

The high pass filter is what is directed to the speakers following the sub.

The low pass filter is where the sub picks up.

In your example of setting the low pass filter at 100 and the high pass at 80, you're likely to have a peak rather than a dip (provided your in phase and are not canceling each other).

Yeah...I realized my error ( now changed to overlap instead of hole). Simply put I'm looking to find out what freq. response is passed to the woofer in the sub after the speaker level signal is passed through the 80HZ highpass filter. Is it then passed intact, full range to the variable crossover ( 40-120HZ adjustable) of the woofer or is it passed from only 80HZ and down to the woofer, not through the variable crossover. I understand that the slope is not going to exclude frequencys above and below the filter point ( I believe the filter is 6DB/octave).
Thanks again,
Bob

I think the full range goes to the low frequency variable crossover.

A way to check this is with a SPL meter and some kind of tone generator similar to that found on Avia.

By the way, my setup is similar to your in that I have my rear surround on full rage (that was suppose to be range, but rage is more accurate) with a sub in line with it.

I think the full range goes to the low frequency variable crossover.

A way to check this is with a SPL meter and some kind of tone generator similar to that found on Avia.

By the way, my setup is similar to your in that I have my rear surround on full rage (that was suppose to be range, but rage is more accurate) with a sub in line with it.

I tried Avia with my current setup ( which includes a cheapo Audiosource 10" sub for the surrounds) and could not get a low frequence sweep in the rear channels. I'm sure someone from Velodyne, after the show can set me straight on this. It would make sense ( to me anyway) to have just 80HZ and below go direct to the sub amp with the variable crossover bypassed using the high level inputs at the same 6DB/octave slope that it passes to the speakers for a seamless transition. How do you have your sub connected to your rear speakers?
Thanks for bearing with me on this question!
Bob

What I did was set my preamp to 7 channel stereo and turned off the amps to the other 5 channels. I'm also using an SMS-1 to generate the test tones and to measure them.

I'm wired into a M&K sub "speakers in" at full range (speakers set to large) and the rear surrounds are wired to the speakers out terminals. Not sure what the settings on the sub are as I adjusted them based on real time graph.

What I did was set my preamp to 7 channel stereo and turned off the amps to the other 5 channels. I'm also using an SMS-1 to generate the test tones and to measure them.

I'm wired into a M&K sub "speakers in" at full range (speakers set to large) and the rear surrounds are wired to the speakers out terminals. Not sure what the settings on the sub are as I adjusted them based on real time graph.

Another obstacle I see is that the variable crossover has a different slope ( 12 DB/otave) So if it is functioning using the speaker level inputs on the sub I may just have to disconnect the front speakers and connect my rears to the front speaker terminals and then run a sweep. Trying to avoid that though.
Thanks...
Bob

Hello all
Are there any users using a SPL1000R is a room about 13X 25
I know I should be usind a SPL 1200R But wanted to hear from some users
The Sub will be firing across the 13Ft and the length is split by a dining room

Another obstacle I see is that the variable crossover has a different slope ( 12 DB/otave) So if it is functioning using the speaker level inputs on the sub I may just have to disconnect the front speakers and connect my rears to the front speaker terminals and then run a sweep. Trying to avoid that though.
Thanks...
Bob

Well...I just connected my CHT 12 to the rear channels using the high level inouts/outputs and it sends my Pioneer VSX 815 into overload, even at low volumes. There must be an impedance drop lower than the Pioneer can handle...even when I switch the receiver ti 6 ohms it runs for a few seconds and then shuts off with "overload" displayed on the front panel. So much for Velo's claim that using the high level inputs does not cause any impedence problems !

luna,

Sounds like a short.

Might want to double check.

Hi,
Let me clear up a couple of issues. The adjustable low pass filter (40-120hz in this case) on a Velodyne works with either line or speaker level hook-ups. The 80-100hz switch is for the high pass only. The low pass should be set by listening for proper integration. If it's boomy or heavy lower the frequency. If it's too light raise the frequency. By using both the low pass crossover adjustment and the volume on the Velodyne you should be able to reach a nice balance with your speakers.
Regarding your receiver shutting down, it's very unusual for the tiny amount of resistance added by the subwoofer to be the issue. I would look for a short, as suggested. Even a single strand of wire will do it. Many receivers are designed for a high power rating (at 8 ohms) and in doing so give up their capability to drive low impedence loads such as 4 ohms. It's wise when possible to look for a high current design. A/V receivers have 5-7 channels all utilizing a single power supply and that's where the problem comes in. Also, many speakers can dip well below their impedence rating. If the speaker wire runs are long, this adds to the problem. Heavy gauge wire (10-14 gauge) should be used for long runs. As you can imagine many, many Velodyne's are hooked up speaker lead without any problem. You might want to call the the receiver company and run it by them. I'd also try their impedence switch in both positions if you haven't already.
Hope this helps.
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

luna,

Sounds like a short.

Might want to double check.

Checked....double checked....triple checked ...no short. The speakers are a bit ineffecient ( vintage DCM Time Windows) so that in combination with the little resistance added by the Velo must drop the load below a safe threshold for the receiver. I use 12 gauge wire whenever I connect speakers and it's only 25' or so, so I would say that's not causing a problem. I just finished running some RG 59 cable under the floor to where the sub is set up for the surrounds. Bought adaptors to adapt the standard cable connectors to male RCA ( Radioshack to the rescue again) on both ends so I can use the surround pre out on my receiver to connect to the sub's low level inputs and it works like a charm! Probably a better way to go anyway.
Thanks Curt and Jim for the suggestions...
Bob

curt c, can you explain the reasoning of the designers why the high pass (80-100) wasn't simply integrated to the variable low pass crossover? e.g. variable low pass setting of 60hz = 60hz high pass crossover ... for those with decent mains.

Hi CurtC or someone from velo,

I recently auditioned the SPL1000R (was interested in getting the 1200 but both places only carried the 8" and the 10".

anyway after many testing and tweaks, placements, calibration I could not get the sub to produce anything in the lower 20s, Does the 1000-R have a high pass filter of some sort? On Jurrassic lunch, I could clearly see the woofer moving violently on other subs I auditioned, on the spl it was barely moving at all, which led me to believe it wasn't trying to reproduce the bass. If I wanted something with the headroom and musicality of say the SPL1200 or 1500 but size was not an issue do you have something like that without spending too much more or less than what they go for.

I think it there is a fantastic driver and amp in the SPL series but the enclosure is so damn small. I really wish you had a ported or at least a much larger version of the sub with same amp and driver.

Thanks,

- Ed

I have an F-1500 hooked up to my Yamaha DSP A-1000. I am looking at getting a new Yamaha RX-V2700. On the DSP A-1000 the main speaker outs go to the back of the Velodyne and then to my main speakers (Klipsch Forte II's). Is there any reason this won't work on the new Yamaha?

Hi,
You're better off to run a 'rca' interconnect cable from the sub-out jack on the Yamaha and use a 'Y' splitter at the subwoofer end into both (rca) inputs of the Velodyne. In the receiver's speaker set-up menu call all your speaker's small and indicate you have a subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt...I don't recall seeing any RCA inputs on the back of my Velodyne. The speaker inputs are through spring clips...but I will check this evening.

thanks,
Doug

Hi,
There will be four, two in and two out. Just use the two input jacks.
Curt

Curt PM sent

I just wanted to say thanks to the folks at Velodyne for taking great care of me. My SPL1200II went out recently. I shipped the amp to them about 7 days ago. Today I received a new amp in the mail. AT NO COST! Wow! Fast, free service. It's unbelievable. Thanks for the great service. My sub is back in full force. :D

I'm doing a trial of a Velodyne DD-15 tomorrow and have a few questions:

1) I've read the manual available for download from the web site but I can't find a way to ENABLE the 12-volt trigger for turning the DD-15 on. The manual says to present a 12-volt trigger signal across pins 7 and 9 of the RS-232 OUT (sic!) jack in either polarity, and shows a picture of the stand-by screen that is displayed when the unit is awaiting such a trigger. But there doesn't seem to be a menu item to tell the DD-15 to look for the trigger in the first place. What am I missing? Is it in the Auto On/Off Mode item of the Setup screen? And if it is someplace else, should the Auto On/Off Mode item be set to "Inactive" when using a 12-Volt trigger?

2) I need to get the proper DB-9 breakout plug for that jack to connect to those pins. The picture in the downloadable manual is not that clear but it appears I need to get a FEMALE DB-9 breakout plug to plug into the DD-15's MALE RS-232 OUT jack. Can you confirm this is correct?

3) I'll be using the unit with an Anthem D2 pre-pro / video processor. Is there any update yet on how to get the S-video EQ output of the DD-15 to work with that Anthem unit? [The reports are that the DD-15's S-video output will pass through the D2 to the D2's S-video output correctly, but something screwy is going on so that the D2's video processor does not recognize the signal the DD-15 is sending over, and so can not up-convert the DD-15's S-video output to high resolution HDMI video output allowing normal overlay of the D2's own user interface text.]

Thanks for your help!
--Bob

Well I was able to finally get the answers to the 12 volt trigger questions from Velodyne's phone line (they're kind of busy so it took 2 days of repeated trying to get through to someone, which is why I also posted the question here).

The 12-volt trigger really is the specified pins on the RS-232 *OUTPUT* jack. Go figur....

And the enabling of this feature is done in the Auto On field of the Setup page. The manual is in error in saying that the choices are only Active or Inactive. There's also a 12-volt trigger choice.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Unfortunately, all of this is for naught since the DD-15 suffered a catastrophic processor failure within the first 15 minutes of use. Now when you power it on the Velodyne label lights up but does not blink to show the volume settings. Nor will it blink if you try to raise or lower volume using either the remote or the rear panel push buttons. Nor is there any video output or EQ output or bass playing when fed an input.

No change upon attempts to Reset (8-9-0), and no change after leaving the unit unplugged for 10 minutes.

But the little blue light looks pretty! Oh well.

The dealer is embarrassed of course, but back this one goes, and we'll try again when they get a new unit that's, umm, less broken.
--Bob

Curt,

I called and left a message at your company but haven't heard back from anyone. I took my DD12 sub in for repairs back on August 28th at my local Sound Advice in Orlando. Today when I called them I was told they're still "waiting for parts from Veloydne" How long does it take to send some parts to them? Anyway you could check on the status of my sub?

Thanks

[QUOTE=Bob Pariseau]I'm doing a trial of a Velodyne DD-15 tomorrow and have a few questions:


3) I'll be using the unit with an Anthem D2 pre-pro / video processor. Is there any update yet on how to get the S-video EQ output of the DD-15 to work with that Anthem unit?

Bob,

I have been using two DD-15's with my Anthem D1 for over 2 years in a Left and Right configuration.

Both DD-15's automatically come on within seconds of the Anthem D1 powering on without any special cabling. I use S-video cables between each DD-15 and the Anthem D1 without ever having an issue.

I also subscribe to the Anthem D2 thread (intend to upgrade whenever Anthem makes it available). I don't know why the D2 would fail via S-video cables when the D1 works perfectly with my DD-15's.

Sorry to hear that your DD-15 apparently failed. I'm sure Velodyne will cure the problem as fast as possible.

All my dealings with Velodyne have been episodes of the most extraordinary and special customer service I have ever experienced from any vendor. These include: 1). Velodyne loaned me a master remote control from which to copy and publically post the Velodyne remote codes on the URC MX-3000 file resource at www.remotercentral.com. 2). A few months ago I had problems updating the Velodyne software to version 2.2, which required me removing the amp from my DD-15 for return to the factory. I received phone and email support from the very highest levels of the company always with a fast and genuine concern, remedy, progress tracking of remedy and return shipping. Simply extraordinary service!

I use my dual DD-15's in a fairly unusual configuration with 7 Thiel Powerpoints. The combination is seamless, full bodied and incredible.

Chris Cargen

Chris,
Thanks for the encouragement! Any manufacturer can have a product failure in the field. The dealer understands that Velodyne is going to overnight a replacement unit, which is pretty spiffy for something that weighs this much.

The reason for the 12 volt trigger is not the turn on. The signal sensing would likely work just fine for that unless I have an unusually long passage of near silence in the bass frequencies (leading to an unexpected turn on POP in the middle of playback). My reason for wanting to use the 12 volt trigger is the TURN OFF. I want the DD-15 to go into standby immediately when I shut down my audio system and not 15 minutes later when any shutdown POP might be startling. I've used signal sensing subs for years and prefer the more controlled turn on and turn off provided by a trigger.

The S-video problem with the D2 is a mystery. One theory is that the Velodyne is only sending half the fields of the 480i signal, and that the D2's de-interlacer is getting confused by this (which then means the scaler produces no output). In the time I had the DD-15 working today, S-video pass through to the D2's S-video output worked fine, but the DD-15's S-video produced nothing on the D2's HDMI output. Other S-video sources work fine through the D2 to produce HDMI output. In any event, Anthem and Velodyne can likely solve this in a jiffy when they get a chance to get together on the problem. Both units are firmware upgradeable as necessary.
--Bob

It sounds like there's a fan running inside the sub. It sounds like white noise.
Even with no componants on it still does it. Sometimes it doesn't do it. I tried changing outlets. No difference. Anyone else getting this?

Hi,
Try disconnecting your inputs to the subwoofer. If it goes away and stays away it may be noise from your system. There is no fan and normally the DD's are very quiet.
Curt

Curt,

I have an older HGS12 sub that i want to daisy chain to my DD12 when it comes back from repairs. Couple of questions:

1. Should I leave the x-over switch in the OUT position since I'm using the receiver's x-over of 80?

2. I have one cable running from the Denon 5803 sub out to the DD12 but split into 2 cables into the DD12 and than one cable from the DD12 using the pass through out to the HGS12. Is this correct?

3. I think I read in the DD12 manual that when daisy chaining the DD series to another sub I need to run a r232 cable into the other sub but the HGS12 doesn't have this input? This would be to control the volume on the HGS12 from the DD12?

4. Finally when I get the DD12 back how would I run the EQ on both subs? One at a time or both together?

Thanks very much for your help

Tony

HI,
1) Yes it should be in the 'out' position.
2) This is fine or you could do a split at the receiver and send a cable to each sub and a splitter into both sub inputs.
3) The RS-232 cable would be for two DD subs. It does not apply in your system. The volume will need to be done seperately or best accomplished with your receiver's bass volume control for the subwoofer output jack.
4) You would 'EQ' the DD-12 with both subs playing at the same volume.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt!

hallo..

i`ve got a question..

i have an offer for a velodyne CHT-12E..

by searching at google i only found information about the CHT-12R..

i didn`t find anything about the 12E.. why that?

were is the difference between the E and the R version?
which one is the better one..?

are there also a difference in price?

i would be glad if anyone could help me..
thx

hallo..

serial is: 62155616

i`m glad for any information you can give me, like spcifications, original price, year of building.... ecerything you have..

thanks
tobias

post 3

post 4

post 5

sorry i had to do this for the pictur..

http://85.214.19.113/FTP/web/thunder/CHT12E.jpg


here you can see the E...

Hi,
I sent you a PM. This is the 230 volt version of the older CHT-12.
Curt

Hello is there a major diffrince from the SPL SERIES II 1000 To the new SPL100R ?

Hi,
Well it depends on the meaning of 'major'. The driver and amp are about the same, however the onboard DSP in the 'R' series allows fine tuning for even better performance over series II units. In addition there are presets, four-way phase control, a night and mute function and my favorite, the ability to change volume up and down at listening position with the hand held remote. After using a 'R', I wouldn't want to go back. Hope this helps.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I hate to clutter the thread with product support type questions, but...

I have a DD-15 that started making a very loud popping noise. Kinda random, but seems to happen more often when it's been on for a while, and once it starts it becomes more frequent. I have to turn it off when it happens.

I emailed the product support email about 2-1/2 weeks ago, and followed up with another email a couple of days ago; no response. Left a voicemail early today on the product support phone line; no call-back yet.

How should I proceed?

Rick

Hi,
Please contact our service manager, David Santos at; 408-465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

Just got off the phone with Dave, very helpful and we're on track to fix the problem.
Thanks Curt.
Rick

Hi,
Please contact our service manager, David Santos at; 408-465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt


Maybe you can ask him about the part (890071 -- AMP) Tweeter says they're still waiting for since August 28th? Since my emails to him and voicemails to Veloydyne go unanswered. Than again being Friday I guess I this is another week gone...

Hi,
I talked to Dave Santos today and he said your amp was shipped out today 'Red Label'. He was unable to find a record of the dealer order. Sorry for the inconvience.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Is "Red label" a faster method of shipping?

Just got off the phone with Dave, very helpful and we're on track to fix the problem.
Thanks Curt.
Rick Just a quick followup. Since I live nearby, Dave Santos arranged it so I could drive my DD-15 to the company this morning. It was fixed while I waited. I'm thrilled - thanks very much to Curt, Dave, Pete and the others whose names I don't know. First rate people make a first rate company!

Rick

Yes. Two day I believe, maybe three.
Curt

Thanks, Rick.
Curt

Yes. Two day I believe, maybe three.
Curt

I believe UPS Red is next day, Blue is 2 days and Brown is 3 and then standard ground. They don't really use this nomenclature anymore as they have a myriad of options within those categpries now.
Bob

First Post!!

I am hoping this will be an easy question to answer.

I have a Velodyne CRT-150 and I am trying to connect it to a Denon AVR-1905. The Denon reciever has white and red jacks specifically for a subwoofer.

I need to know how I should hook this up. I just moved and failed to write down how I had it hooked up before. The previous connection was't fully correct because the sub would only work when I had the reciever on TV or Tuner mode, not DVD, which is what I put it on to listen to CD's.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi,
Run a 'rca' interconnect cable from either Denon sub-out jack to the Velodyne. Install a 'Y' splitter at the Velodyne end and install the two male ends of the splitter into the two input jacks at the Velodyne. Put the Velodyne's crossover switch to the 'out' position. Go into the speaker set-up section of the receiver and program your speakers as 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. If offered select 80hz as your receiver's crossover point. Adjust the volume of the Velodyne to blend with your speakers.
If you need more help call me direct at (480) 595-7141
Curt

Thanks alot for the help

I have had the SPL-1000 II for about 9 months. I am not an audiophile by any stretch of the word and would have never bought such a quality sub if it weren’t for a space problem. I am using a Salamander enclosure and the sub had to fit inside. On top of that the sub is in a room 20x11x9, which has large openings to other rooms. I started out putting everything together on my own but could not find a decent, inexpensive sub that could fill the room with decent sound. Quite the opposite, my $200-$400 subs from Infinity et. al. sounded horrible and had to be returned. At my wits end, I went to one of the local high-end audio stores. Two subs fit the size criteria, a Super Cube from Definitive Technology and the SPL-1000 II. After some discussion between the various sales people, they decided the Super Cube would not be able to handle the large room requirement that I had. So I swallowed hard, the price tag was more than I ever intended to spend and left with the SPL-1000 II.

After a few weeks I noticed that the sub started to distort heavily and needed to be turned off for about an hour before it sounded normal again. After a call, Velodyne replaced the amp. The new amp exhibited the same problem pretty much from the start but we were building a house at the time and had more important issues to deal with. Now I finally have the time to address this problem.

Here is my setup:
Receiver: Yamaha HTR 5890
Sub: SPL-1000 II
Center: Paradigm
Fronts: In ceiling Speakercraft 10”
Back: No name 8”

I used the auto mic setup from the receiver and am pretty happy with the overall sound. I did manually adjust the center’s volume higher.

My main question is: Is the sub defective? As I said it sounds fine for a while, goes into a bass distortion (total funk) and only recovers after being off for one hour or so.

Hello Curt. Thanks for taking these questions. You've always been so patient and helpful. I've read several posts regarding the amps dying on the different units. I've had the spl1200 for nearly 4 years now. I'm having to replace the amp in my unit for the second time. The room is small (10'x12'). The sub amp isn't pushed hard. The first amp lasted about 5 months. the second amp lasted for nearly 3 years. Both times it was the same thing. I use the sub normally the night before then go to use it the next day and nothing. Blue power indicator comes on but nothing comes out. I have the sub power set to auto if that could be causing the issue. I have the sub connected to my receiver through the line level hook up and nestled between my speaker and tv. The first amp was covered under warranty, but obviously this time it will be out of pocket for me. I'm just curious and frustrated as you can imagine since my friends use much inferior quality subs but theirs continue to work flawlessly. I'm curious what might be going on here. I appreciate any insights. BTW when the sub is working it is phenomenal.

Hi,
I sent PM's to the last two messages.
BTW, for service/repair issues please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800 EXT. 3851. For Velodyne's service manager contact Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
For selecting the proper size subwoofer please call or email me or go to our website, www.velodyne.com and select 'which product' and then 'subwoofer recommendations'.
It's much better to have good information before making the purchase and I'm here to help.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

Run a 'rca' interconnect cable from either Denon sub-out jack to the Velodyne. Install a 'Y' splitter at the Velodyne end and install the two male ends of the splitter into the two input jacks at the Velodyne. Put the Velodyne's crossover switch to the 'out' position. Go into the speaker set-up section of the receiver and program your speakers as 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. If offered select 80hz as your receiver's crossover point. Adjust the volume of the Velodyne to blend with your speakers.
If you need more help call me direct at (480) 595-7141
Curt

Thanks Curt, that answered my question too for this VX-10 input.

In a 13'x18'x8' HT room it is dynamite in a small package, clear yet chest-thumping sound.

Perhaps you could replace your easy-to-read explanation in this (http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/support/VX10_VRP_Addendum.aspx?sid=171q767o) Velodyne manual addendum*, that had me thinking to connect a Y-splitter at both ends, or two leads, or something, i confuse easy.

Cheers, Rex




If using line level jacks, BOTH THE LEFT AND RIGHT INPUT SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED - never use just the left or just the right input. If the subwoofer's input comes from the LFE channel of your receiver, use a "Y" splitter to divide the single input into two inputs for the Left and Right subwoofer inputs. If using line level connections from a preamp or signal processor, use both Left and Right inputs from your preprocessor or preamp and connect them to the Left and Right inputs on your subwoofer.

This information supercedes the line level installation instructions in the owner's manual.

Thanks Rex, good to hear you're enjoying the VX-10.
Curt

I have a question ... even with the AVR sub level set to +10db ... DD volume set to whatever volume ...
my measurement volume level (sweep) is just between 69 and 73 db.

I cant get the line to move up to 80 like you guys do

what am I doing wrong?

also, when I followed the instruction manual to mute the DD first then increase receiver volume til the >80hz line reaches 76db - I dont even get to 73db when the front speakers start making this annoying noise. (then the measurement sweep flatlines to the upper range of the chart)

room size is 2600 cu.ft.
mic is just 8 feet away from the DD
all doors and windows closed

edit: I have tried changing inputs on the AVR (video 1, video 2, video 4)
I have tried combinations of AVR sub level -5, 0db and +10db

Hi,
Are you hearing the signal sweep from both your speakers and the subwoofer? If the sweep does'nt go up as you increase the DD's volume something isn't right. What input on your receiver did you run the DD's eq output jacks to? Have you tried a reset on the DD (8-9-0)? What EQ mode have you tried? There's self (3-2-1) and then auto and manual. Auto and manual require the EQ output jacks run into your system along with the video hookup. The self EQ (3-2-1) output is fixed and will not change with volume.
Curt

did the reset 980 thing ...

I can see the sweep moving/updating but I dont hear it.

tried the auto (I can hear this one) but cant see what the DD has done because it jumps back to the main menu

I have the OUTPUT of the DD going to the input of the AVR (red and white RCA)
but I have the video out directly to the tv

EDIT: oh crap ... I have the rca's on the DD on the wrong output ... should be the EQ output

Hi,
I sent you a PM, but it looks like you're getting there.
Curt

My earlier nice comments about Velodyne sending a replacement DD-15 to the dealer overnight were, umm, premature.

The dealer is still waiting for a shipping confirmation, much less delivery.

Since I don't actually own this unit yet, I don't really have standing to complain -- i.e., this is between the dealer and Velodyne. And I wasn't involved in their phone calls to Velodyne so I don't really know what was promised. But I thought it best to correct the record.

As I said back then, the idea of shipping something this heavy via overnight would have been impressive, indeed. But of course by now it could have gotten here UPS Ground. For example, we know that the original, broken DD-15 made it back to Velodyne days ago.
--Bob

curt, sorry incredible stupidity on my part, I did not connect the RCA's to the EQ output ... I mistakenly connected it to the left and right output of the DD.

but it was moved into place without me seeing the back, so I was looking at the back upside down from the front.

took me 10-15 minutes to move the sub right to left just 2 feet away.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/superribbit/charts/IMG_4695.jpg

is there a procedure in EQing? I mean from 80hz down or 15 hz up?
what are your general advices re: Q setting (wide or narrow)

Hi,
No, either up to down or down to up. As to 'Q' experiment and see what effect there is. Your curve is excellent, integration with speakers is nice. Enjoy the music! Happy Honeymoon.
Curt

My earlier nice comments about Velodyne sending a replacement DD-15 to the dealer overnight were, umm, premature.

The dealer is still waiting for a shipping confirmation, much less delivery.

Since I don't actually own this unit yet, I don't really have standing to complain -- i.e., this is between the dealer and Velodyne. And I wasn't involved in their phone calls to Velodyne so I don't really know what was promised. But I thought it best to correct the record.

As I said back then, the idea of shipping something this heavy via overnight would have been impressive, indeed. But of course by now it could have gotten here UPS Ground. For example, we know that the original, broken DD-15 made it back to Velodyne days ago.
--Bob

Bob,
It use to be a big no no to ship the HGS 15 by UPS. If the same rules apply to the DD-15 model, I'd expect it to arrive motor freight or even air freight.

I have a DD18 to be used just for LFE (for movies) as my main speakers are large (surrounds are set to 80hz). Is there guidance/recommendations for how to best set that up and also achieve maximum destruction :D ?

For example I assume the System settings such as the Low Pass Info should say "Off".

Thanks in Advance

Okay here's another question then. I am trying to daisy chain two DD18s but not getting any sound to the slave sub. Going RS232 Master/Out to Slave/in, then RCA L&R Master ThruOut to Slave/LFE L&R Line Level In. I spent 2 hours troubleshooting and too frustrated to continue. Tested the RCA cables and swapped the subs. I didn't test the RS232 Cable which is a DB9 Male / DB9 Female, 9C, Serial Cable but I tried two of them and neither worked.

Is this the right RS232 cable? Anything else I could do?

Okay here's another question then. I am trying to daisy chain two DD18s but not getting any sound to the slave sub. Going RS232 Master/Out to Slave/in, then RCA L&R Master ThruOut to Slave/LFE L&R Line Level In. I spent 2 hours troubleshooting and too frustrated to continue. Tested the RCA cables and swapped the subs. I didn't test the RS232 Cable which is a DB9 Male / DB9 Female, 9C, Serial Cable but I tried two of them and neither worked.

Is this the right RS232 cable? Anything else I could do?

Update
I guess there is nothing wrong with posting to myself :(
I now hear a faint response in the Slave Sub so I guess that means I have the correct cable. Even if I raise the volume on the slave sub there is only a small increase in audible volume. Has anyone else experience this and what did you do? If you haven't, suggestions are always welcome.

Hi,
Well I did send you a PM and I certainly think they both need the same software (2.2) which they don't have. You said one has 2.0 and the other has 2.2 so I recommend you upgrade the 2.0 one to 2.2. I'll be available tomorrow for a phone call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I just started using a Velodyne SMS-1 with my dedicated home theater multi-channel system (see thread at AVS $20K and Up forum discussing this in detail),
with four Aerial Acoustics 10Ts, an Aerial CC5 center speaker, and three Aerial SW12 subwoofers. Speaker are equidistant from front row center sweet spot
on a clock formation. Theta CB3 surround processor with Theta Six Shooter robot analog multi-channel preamp. Sources DirecTV, DVD, D-VHS (all digital),
redbook (digital), SACD and DVD-A multi-channel (analog via Six Shooter),
and HD DVD (analog vis Six Shooter and also digital to compare sonics).
The SMS-1 is connected as follows - a balanced interconnect from Theta CB3
sub output to Theta Six Shooter; balanced interconnect from Theta Six Shooter to SMS-1; and balanced interconnect from SMS-1 to front left Aerial sub, which is then chained by balanced interconnect to front right Aerial sub, which is then chained by balanced interconnect to the third (surround) Aerial sub.

For setup after hitting on the remote (1-2-3-4-5):

Does it make any difference whether I setup my surround processor for this in stereo with subwoofer, or with 5.1 channels and if the latter whether to use as audio mode Dolby Pro Logic 2, Circle Surround 2 or Mono (DPL2 and CS2 derive center, surround and sub channel from front left and right signal, mono combined front left and right into mono signal and then sends that combined signal to center and surround speakers and sends the low passed signal from those speakers to the sub)?

My system is pretty even frequency wise thanks to use of Michael Green PressureZone Controllers and a specially built dedicated room - except that
I have humps averaging close to 10 dB between about 50 Hz to under 100 Hz.
I ifnd that if I raise the volume level on the SMS-1, and the volume level on the surround processor, that I can pretty much eliminate this hump and have a
pretty good (not too unflat plus or minus 3 dB) curve. However, this is much above my normal listening level and I assume this is not how to do this.

Here's what I did. Please tell me if this is correct or if you recommend doing it differently. First, as my room is very quiet, I decided to use 80 dB as the midpoint on the graph for the settings. I muted the SMS-1 and turned the surround processor to 55, so that the right side of the graph was averaging about 80 dB.
Then I unmuted the SMS-1, and I turned the volume up to 20, which is where the left side of the graph averaged about 80 dB. When I had the SMS-1 volume somewhat lower, I had that average 10 dB hump in the 50 Hz to under 100 Hz region, and this corrected as I turned up the volume. Note that for HD DVD analog and SACD and DVD-Audio analog (which do not have a Dolby Digital 10 dB boost in the surround processor), I then did speaker levels reducing the SMS-1 volume to 13; and then in my surround processor sources I matched -10 dB subwoofer speaker level for Dolby Digital and DTS and 0 dB subwoofer speaker level for HD DVD analog.

Note that as my system has always sounded best using a high pass/low pass of 40 Hz 6 dB, that's what I used with my surround processor, turning off the SMS-1 low pass. I did try 80 Hz 6 dB and that didn't sound near as good to me (although maybe I didn't do it right). Any suggestions in this regard?

Thanks.

Hi,
Since I'm not familiar with some of your equipment, I suggest you call me tomorrow. We recommend doing the equalization in a stereo, rather than surround mode. BTW, unity gain in the SMS-1 is 15.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Steve,

I see a couple of things that I'd like to respond to.

With 3 subs, I think I could do better than using the mono sub out from the preamp. I'd probably go with some configuration where two are at the front of the room with the sub out signal and the third is in the back of the room operating off of the rear surround signal.

Secondly, it sounds like your current setup is out of phase as you are able to cancel a hump at the cross over range by increasing the sub volume. If they were in phase, you would be increasing that peak.

I had a seperate post, but was asked to post here instead. Anyway, I have a Velodyne CHT-10 and I was wondering if there were any differences (other then name) between that and a CT-100. I'd like to get a second sub for my HT and can't find CHT's but can find many CT's.

Hi,
They are about the same and will work fine together. The differences are mainly cosmetic and barely noticeable.
Thanks,
Curt

Steve,

I see a couple of things that I'd like to respond to.

With 3 subs, I think I could do better than using the mono sub out from the preamp. I'd probably go with some configuration where two are at the front of the room with the sub out signal and the third is in the back of the room operating off of the rear surround signal.

Secondly, it sounds like your current setup is out of phase as you are able to cancel a hump at the cross over range by increasing the sub volume. If they were in phase, you would be increasing that peak.

Jim, you make some good points. Actually, my room is 18' 3" wide, 25' long, and 11' 11" high, excellent acoustical dimensions purposely designed. The front Aerial 10Ts center at front woofer is seven feet from the front screen wall, whereas the rear surround 10Ts center at front woofer is five feet from rear wall. The outer edge of the front left and right, and surround left and right, Aerial Acoustics 10Ts are each about two feet from the closest side wall, thanks to Michael Green Pressure Zone Controllers and acoustical treatments which are adjusted to provide exceptional sonics and phantom center imaging between sets of speakers. The front right and left Aerial SW12 subwoofers are each placed directly inside the front left and right Aerial 10T speakers. This places their woofers at the one quarter width and one quarter length room dimensions. The surround Aerial SW12 subwoofer is placed to the immediate left but just in back (looking towards the Stewart screen in back of the CC5) of the Aerial CC5 center speaker. Subwoofers are set to equal the volume of the main speakers.
I'm quite sure that the front left and right Aerial subs have excellent placement - the third surround sub, even though I thought I placed it pretty good (I tried in the rear of the room where I have room and it was the pits there, so I went with the front), may not be so good. I think I will try the Velodyne just using two subs and see how it works. And of course I can lift that darn heavy Aerial sub from its surround front center by the wall position to my listening position, and then
play the SMS-1 test tones looking for a better location if I want to keep it.

I have a question, I now (after a little trial and error and then reading some above posts) understand I need to run RCA's from my receiver/processor to the DD-15 EQ in order to start the sweep signal and begin the optimization of the bass process.

Will this connection also pass the EQ signal to another sub (Outlaw LFM-1) as well as to my regular speakers or do I have to run a RCA connection to the other sub as well. If I do need a separate connection should that be back to the receiver/processor or directly to the DD-15?

Hope this makes sense and if not please be kind. :)

Hi,
The connection from the EQ out (audio) jacks on the DD to an input on your receiver will pass the signal sweep to all speakers hooked to your receiver. That would include the other sub and your speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

Thanks a bunch!

I have a non-DD sub (HGS12) daisy-chained to a DD12 sub. They're on opposite ends of the couch under the end tables. I have the AV volume set at 0 and I'm trying to get the volume of both subs to be similar. I guess I need to do this by ear? Or can I get better results using Avia, etc?

Thanks

Hi,
By ear should work fairly well. You can also use the RTA section of the DD by sending out the signal sweep to one sub at a time. Or you could play a CD with a steady tone. Turn the volume off on the sub not being measured. Then reverse the process. You can achieve equal output readings on the systems response screen for both subs (one at a time) this way. Have the mic at the same listening position for both measurements. After achieving equal levels, EQ the DD with both subs playing.
If this isn't clear, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,

Curt, can the foam surround be replaced on an F1200?

Hi,
I sent you a PM regarding some options.
Curt

Thank you Curt.

Hi,
By ear should work fairly well. You can also use the RTA section of the DD by sending out the signal sweep to one sub at a time. Or you could play a CD with a steady tone. Turn the volume off on the sub not being measured. Then reverse the process. You can achieve equal output readings on the systems response screen for both subs (one at a time) this way. Have the mic at the same listening position for both measurements. After achieving equal levels, EQ the DD with both subs playing.
If this isn't clear, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141


Hi.........what's the RTA section of the DD? Any tips on a CD I could use or download?

Thanks

Hi,
The RTA is the 'on screen display' (on TV set) where you will see the volume levels picked up by the mic. It's the 'systems response' page, also referred to the 'EQ page'. A CD with test tones will work fine. Maybe someone has one they could recommend.
Curt

Think I got them matched now thanks!

The replacement DD-15 showed up and was installed today. Apparently the delay was that the original, broken unit was repaired and returned instead of a new unit being sent to the dealer right away.

I'm doing a trial of this DD-15 with an Anthem D2 pre/pro. So far so good! The combo of room response controls in the DD-15 and in the Anthem results in a very flat curve from end to end.

Now for some serious listening.....
--Bob

Well so much for serious listening....

This DD-15 fails in a fashion nearly identical to the prior broken unit.

Despite the fact that it stayed live long enough for me to calibrate the bass response, it is now shutting down repeatedly.

EXAMPLE:
1) Turn off Anthem D2 (to clear the 12 volt trigger to the DD-15). This is not really necessary, but let's do it to get things to a known state.

2) Turn off DD-15 using rear power switch. Wait a couple minutes.

3) Power on Anthem D2 and TV. Select the D2's audio/video path from the DD-15 (with TV set to display it's S-video input).

4) Turn on the DD-15 using the rear power switch. The DD-15 powers up normally. The standard startup screen from the DD-15 displays (and indicates it has a good 12 volt trigger). From other tests I know that at this point the DD-15 will play bass properly, but for this example, just leave it on that splash screen continuously so that there's no audio signal being sent to the D2, and thus none being sent back to the DD-15.

5) Wait. Your wait time will be between 1 and 5 minutes.

6) Sometime during this wait the video display from the DD-15 will vanish. At that point the DD-15 is hosed. Even though it's front logo is still lit, it is now unresponsive to the remote control (or the rear panel volume buttons), and will also play no bass if fed an audio signal. Turning off the D2 doesn't change this -- i.e., even though the 12 volt trigger has now gone away, the DD-15 front logo remains lit and the unit remains unresponsive. The orange line under the logo is also lit at this point.

7) I have also seen two instances of the unit repeatedly restarting at this point instead of just staying in the steady state described in (6) above. The unit repeatedly restarts within a second or two of the startup screen being displayed on the TV.

So the only thing different between this unit and the prior unit is that powering this one off for a while using its rear power switch makes it work again for a while after it is powered back up. The prior unit remained hosed even after 15 minutes disconnected from wall power.

Since this DD-15 is the same one we sent back, I'm frankly wondering if Velodyne actually did anything to repair it or simply did not see the problem when they tried it themselves. At a guess, the electronics are failing after they've had a chance to heat up to normal operating temperature. [Note, I'm not stressing this unit at all. There's no good reason for its protection circuitry to be kicking in if indeed that's what's happening.]

I've also tried a different (dedicated) wall power circuit, just in case. No change in behavior.

Deep sigh.....

Oh well, the dealer gets another call in the morning.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Update: It's now 90 minutes later. I've been trying to isolate this failure better, but it keeps changing flavor. The unit was now ALWAYS repeatedly resetting itself instead of just staying hosed -- different behavior from its initial failure mode.

And NOW its working again! I've been playing jazz at quite modest volumes for half an hour (very little stress on the DD-15), and it hasn't failed.

I really wish Velodyne had sent a new unit instead of returning this one so that I could be sure I was dealing with a different set of electronics.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Update #2: I've just completed 4 more hours of listening without a single new failure. Jazz, classical, and some movie segments with moderate LFE. I've no idea why the DD-15 had that spasm of failure earlier or whether it is likely to recur.

Nervousness about that aside, I must say this beasty sounds good!
--Bob

Bob,

Sounds like you are having a time with it.

Not that familiar with the DD15, but the HGS15 shuts itself off when it doesn't receive a signal for a few minutes. I'm also using a SMS-1 on a 12 volt trigger, which comes on whenever the preamp is on, but that doesn't keep the sub on if there is no audio signal.

Bob,

Sounds like you are having a time with it.

Not that familiar with the DD15, but the HGS15 shuts itself off when it doesn't receive a signal for a few minutes. I'm also using a SMS-1 on a 12 volt trigger, which comes on whenever the preamp is on, but that doesn't keep the sub on if there is no audio signal.

Only if you set the power setting to auto instead of on. I have mine set at on as I don't like the initial delay for the sub to trigger on when initially fed any source material.

I wonder if the problem is with the 12 volt trigger? I have a DD-18 and have never used the trigger from the processor (currently a Parasound C2). The DD auto senses an LFE signal and turns itself on. Never more than a second or two delay.

RMK!,
The original DD-15 failed (unrecoverably) even before we got around to trying the 12-volt trigger hookup. It was still using its default LFE signal sensing to turn on. We had just completed a Self-EQ, and the unit was sitting pretty much idle while we were on the phone with Velodyne about how to enable the 12-volt trigger. It had been powered on for about 15 minutes total when it hosed itself.

As for the current DD-15 (maybe new?) I've tried experiments with the 12-volt trigger during periods where the new unit was working. The D2 lets you enable and disable triggers from its user interface, so I can change the trigger while still leaving the DD-15's video pass through live so I can see the effect on the DD-15. The trigger seems to be working correctly, and I've been able to find no correlation between trigger use and the failure of this DD-15. That doesn't eliminate it entirely of course, but there's no obvious smoking gun.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

By the way, this DD-15 has been working without problems so far this morning as well -- an additional 3 hours (so far) playing a variety of content.

At this point I'm beginning to suspect that the DD-15's calibration signal generator (and the necessary processing to display the live graph) may have caused some portion of the DD-15 electronics to get unhappy. Total calibration time was about 1 hour, with a target volume level of roughly 75dB. The calibration process worked without a hitch. The first failure occurred about 20 minutes AFTER I finished calibration -- while playing some classical music.

With the unit now working using my prior, surprisingly good, calibration results, I've not tried a recalibration to see if this, indeed, produces a new failure, but that's the only difference I can think of between when it failed and now when it is apparently working correctly.

----------------------------------------------------------------

UPDATE: I got confirmation this morning that the entire electronics module was replaced in this unit before it was sent back. So whatever's going on here has now happened with two different sets of DD-15 electronics.
--Bob

RMK!,
The original DD-15 failed (unrecoverably) even before we got around to trying the 12-volt trigger hookup. It was still using its default LFE signal sensing to turn on. We had just completed a Self-EQ, and the unit was sitting pretty much idle while we were on the phone with Velodyne about how to enable the 12-volt trigger. It had been powered on for about 15 minutes total when it hosed itself.

As for the current DD-15 (maybe new?) I've tried experiments with the 12-volt trigger during periods where the new unit was working. The D2 lets you enable and disable triggers from its user interface, so I can change the trigger while still leaving the DD-15's video pass through live so I can see the effect on the DD-15. The trigger seems to be working correctly, and I've been able to find no correlation between trigger use and the failure of this DD-15. That doesn't eliminate it entirely of course, but there's no obvious smoking gun.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

By the way, this DD-15 has been working without problems so far this morning as well -- an additional 3 hours (so far) playing a variety of content.

At this point I'm beginning to suspect that the DD-15's calibration signal generator (and the necessary processing to display the live graph) may have caused some portion of the DD-15 electronics to get unhappy. Total calibration time was about 1 hour, with a target volume level of roughly 75dB. The calibration process worked without a hitch. The first failure occurred about 20 minutes AFTER I finished calibration -- while playing some classical music.

With the unit now working using my prior, surprisingly good, calibration results, I've not tried a recalibration to see if this, indeed, produces a new failure, but that's the only difference I can think of between when it failed and now when it is apparently working correctly.

----------------------------------------------------------------

UPDATE: I got confirmation this morning that the entire electronics module was replaced in this unit before it was sent back. So whatever's going on here has now happened with two different sets of DD-15 electronics.
--Bob

What a drag, good thing you are a hobbiest ;)
I'd try the calibration again and if it fails, time for a new unit. What say you Curt/Bruce?

We have a new theory.

In playing around during calibration I raised the volume on the DD-15 and lowered the sub output volume on the Anthem D2 which had a beneficial effect around the crossover frequency. The theory is that I may have been stressing the DD-15 amp enough during calibration that it triggered it's protection circuitry (after the calibration was finished). With some cool off, the DD-15 worked again, although it was still being stressed.

I've just done a recalibration targeting a lower DD-15 volume. The result has the DD-15 volume at 18 and the D2 sub output volume at its default of 0.0dB.

With a few other tweaks this curve is even flatter than the prior one, so this was a good exercise in any event.

No problems during the re-calibration, and no problems yet in the 30 minutes or so since I finished that re-calibration.

Thanks to Curt for sleuthing this!

Of course this doesn't explain the original unit's failure since the Self-EQ was done at the default DD-15 volume (30), but that may have been an entirely unrelated failure.
--Bob

We have a new theory.

In playing around during calibration I raised the volume on the DD-15 and lowered the sub output volume on the Anthem D2 which had a beneficial effect around the crossover frequency. The theory is that I may have been stressing the DD-15 amp enough during calibration that it triggered it's protection circuitry (after the calibration was finished). With some cool off, the DD-15 worked again, although it was still being stressed.

I've just done a recalibration targeting a lower DD-15 volume. The result has the DD-15 volume at 18 and the D2 sub output volume at its default of 0.0dB.

With a few other tweaks this curve is even flatter than the prior one, so this was a good exercise in any event.

No problems during the re-calibration, and no problems yet in the 30 minutes or so since I finished that re-calibration.

Thanks to Curt for sleuthing this!

Of course this doesn't explain the original unit's failure since the Self-EQ was done at the default DD-15 volume (30), but that may have been an entirely unrelated failure.
--Bob


Good news Bob, I run my DD @ 12-15. I did this as a result of some unpleasant backfiring (popping) behavior when playing a particular dynamic DTS track at the default 30 volume. Downing the DD volume solved the pop problem and I also achieved a better FR curve with the lower volume setting. No loss of impact bass either :) .

I've sent Bob some PM's with suggestions. The amp was replaced. I'm not aware of the DD calibration ever causing any problems. As a general recommendation for Velodyne's, have the receiver or pre/pro's subwoofer output at least half way up or more, and keep the Velodyne's volume down. Usually with a DD a nice volume setting is in the teens or twenties. Also, very important to have the proper size subwoofer. And I'm always available for a phone call.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt PM sent

Hi guys...

I have had a DD15 for almost two years now and am very happy with it...So happy that I purchased another one about a year ago to have a stereo sub set up out of my Lexicon MC 12 v.4....and live in LFE heaven...

Anyway, life got in my way and after a really bad 12 months, I finally have gotten around to setting it up to enjoy and!!!! Problem!!

When I plugged in my second DD15 it made a loud throbbing sound for a few seconds and I shut it off...Unplugged both the power and the XLR LFE input...Tried it again...without the sub input and still got the loud..."Overdriven" sound until it shut itself down....

Couldn't find a fuse or anything that seems servicable by me...and don't want to keep turning it on and damaging it....

Is this a fixable problem or do I need to return it to Velodyne and have them look at it?

I am up in the San Jose/Sunnyvale area once a month and would be happy to save the shipping and drive them both up...I need the software upgraded on the one that is working and I don't own a pc...am a MAC user...

Dont know what to do...It wont stay on long enough to access the service screen via a monitor!!!

Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks in advance...

Kirk aka Thatchmo

Kirk,

Sounds like the amp is sick.

Rather than taking the whole assembly, you might just want to unscrew the amps and take those with you.

I have a VA 1210 and it is not working now. I believe it is the amp that is not working. Where can I purchase a replacement amp for this sub?

JimP,

As for taking the amps out of the sub, as long as someone from Velodyne okayed it and told me how to do it...I suppose I could...although it's really not a big deal for me to bring the whole thing up in my SUV...Also, would taking the amps out myself void any warranty?

Anyone from Velodyne care to comment?

Thanks,

Kirk

Hi,
When you have service or repair problems, contact Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819, Monday through Friday, 8AM-5PM Pacific time.
Thanks,
Curt

We have a new theory.

In playing around during calibration I raised the volume on the DD-15 and lowered the sub output volume on the Anthem D2 which had a beneficial effect around the crossover frequency. The theory is that I may have been stressing the DD-15 amp enough during calibration that it triggered it's protection circuitry (after the calibration was finished). With some cool off, the DD-15 worked again, although it was still being stressed.

I've just done a recalibration targeting a lower DD-15 volume. The result has the DD-15 volume at 18 and the D2 sub output volume at its default of 0.0dB.

With a few other tweaks this curve is even flatter than the prior one, so this was a good exercise in any event.

No problems during the re-calibration, and no problems yet in the 30 minutes or so since I finished that re-calibration.

Thanks to Curt for sleuthing this!

Of course this doesn't explain the original unit's failure since the Self-EQ was done at the default DD-15 volume (30), but that may have been an entirely unrelated failure.
--Bob

I would think that a higher signal from the D2 would pose less stress on the DD15? Is a higher DD volume actually preferable?

Thanks Curt!

I will call tomorrow!!


Kirk

I'm trying to see if anyone else has (or has experienced) this same issue.

I recently purchased a new Velodyne DD-15 for my dedicated home theater room.
I have a Anthem D1 and Paradigm Signature speakers in a 7.1 setup. The room is
acoustically treated with bass traps in the front.

I calibrated the DD-15 to 75-76 db with the Avia sub test tones. The volume level on the DD-15 is 35. I than EQ-d the DD-15. At moderate levels (-8 to -10 db) from reference, I get a very audible rattle from the back of the sub during scenes with moderate to heavy bass.

I first thought the rattle was coming from a the door threshold into the equipment room that had not been siliconed yet. However, after checking, I noticed all of the screws on the back of the DD-15 were loose. I contacted my dealer, and posted a message on this forum, and was instructed to just tighten them myself with a screw driver. I was relived that this would take care of my problem. Unfortunately, it did not! The rattle was still there.

I spent hours looking at the back of the sub, and even took the amp plate completely off to try and find the source of the rattle. It definitely appeared to be coming from the back of the sub, close to the power plug area.
I emailed Velodyne, and was instructed to send the whole sub in for testing ($100 shipping). I received a call from velodyne that they could not find a problem. When I asked what volume they were testing it at vs. reference, and indicated this was happening to me at -8 to -10 db from reference, they indicated that they would "turn it up". ?

A week later my sub showed up with documentation that the IR receiver was loose and was now secured.

Unfortunately, after a few weeks of playing movies, the problem still exists. I still have a rattle from the back of the sub and am somewhat disappointed. Am I crazy to expect to listen at -8 to -10 db from reference and not have issues with this sub? Anyone else with a DD series sub have any type of rattle at any listening level? Anythign I'm doing with my setup or calibration that I should change??

Any help or suggestions appreciated.

Regards - Andrew

As a long time, satisfied Velodyne owner, this has been one very helpful thread!

Perhaps this question is for the admins, but I was wondering why the official SVS thread is stickied at the top but not the official Velodyne thread?

Not really that big of a deal since there's usually enough activity here to find this thread easily. Just curious...

Hi...The above post was brought to my attention for we usally do not read threads unless pointed out.

It was stuck for it is NEW and we wanted to be sure it was seen by SVS owners so they know they have a place to go for such chat.

It will be unstuck within a few days.

Regards,

Curt,

Per your PM from my message above. I raised the sub outpout of my preamp to +2 and re-calibrated the DD15. The volume now is at 15 on the DD15 and the rattle is still very present. Please check your PM.

Thanks - Andrew

Curt I sent in a velodyne F18 II subwoofer. The woofer is blown and they offered me a DD18 B stock at a good price witch I will take. I use My home theater daily and was wondering how long it typically takes to get one? My RMA is 075933 Thanks.

Andrew and Todd,
I am sending you PM's.
Curt

I have a quick question that I cannot find the answer to. I have set up my new DD18 and am slowly getting the setup process down. The sub inputs have a dual plug in. red and white. My sub output from my processor is a single output. Does it matter if I plug up to the red or white connection? Should I get a splitter and plug in both? If so, why?
Thanks!

Hi,
Assuming you have enough input (voltage), you can use either DD input. If you use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs as I usually do, you will increase the input to the subwoofer by about 3db.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi everyone.
I would like to know what volume level is my CHT-12R sub playing. From the default preset I increased the volume at +6 (presses). Is this setting still safe for my driver or its amp considering that I have my bass setting from my receiver set at -4db. Currently I don't have an spl meter and I just rely with my ears.
This velodyne sub really pleases my ears and WOW my room shakes. Nice Engineering from people who really knows how to build subwoofers.

Hi,
Factory volume preset on you sub is '35'. Each volume press equates to about two digits. I would do a reset (press presets in this order, 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual), that will take you back to '35'. Raise the receiver level for the subwoofer jack to '0' or a little higher and get the same volume as you had before without raising the sub's volume. I would also suggest using a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. If this isn't clear send me a PM.
Thanks,
Curt

(Not sure if this was asked earlier; thread is way long.)

I recently ran across some measurements of the SMS-1 frequency response in the 10Hz and 5Hz subsonic filters, at each of the different dB settings: 10Hz Roll Off (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=5952), 5Hz Roll Off (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=5953).

These measurements indicate a significant roll off beginning at 25Hz. Much greater than what would be expected with those subsonic filter settings.

Are these measurements accurate?

I am currently using the 5Hz/6dB roll off setting, and these measurements would actually explain why I no longer have a +10dB peak at 12Hz, as the roll off is -10dB at 12Hz.

I have the lowest EQ set to +6db at 15hz with the Q setting appropriately full narrow. This is the only EQ where I am at +6db with the others set at +2-3db or - db. Will this setting unduely tax the DD18 sub?

Hi,
It depends on several factors, primarily room size and how loud you listen. Very little software out there with 15hz. If it were me, I'd back off some and go for flat at 20hz, chances are you won't notice any difference.
Thanks,
Curt

Good news Bob, I run my DD @ 12-15. I did this as a result of some unpleasant backfiring (popping) behavior when playing a particular dynamic DTS track at the default 30 volume. Downing the DD volume solved the pop problem and I also achieved a better FR curve with the lower volume setting. No loss of impact bass either :) .

RMK! I just noticed your post in this thread. I think I am experiencing the same type of issue as you. I have a very audible rattle/pop/creaking coming from the DD15 when played at modest levels. I did have the volume set to the 30's. After having it sent into Velodyne and I now have it back, I still have the same issue. I traded few PM's and emails with Curt and Dave at Velodyne, they suggeted lowering the volume on the DD15 as well. I tried it in the low teens and twenties and still had the issued. I tried it with the Volume on the DD15 at "8" and still have the issue. The pop or rattle is odd in that it can be heard after the bass that the sub puts out...and is really hard to pin down where it is coming from or the exact sound it makes...put popping would be very close. Did you every find the source of the problem? Which DTS track caused the issue. I am concerned becuase to get rid of it, I have to calibrate the DD15 almost 10db below refrence....and at that point it doens't sound any better than my old HSU. Let me know. Thanks - Andrew

RMK! I just noticed your post in this thread. I think I am experiencing the same type of issue as you. I have a very audible rattle/pop/creaking coming from the DD15 when played at modest levels. I did have the volume set to the 30's. After having it sent into Velodyne and I now have it back, I still have the same issue. I traded few PM's and emails with Curt and Dave at Velodyne, they suggeted lowering the volume on the DD15 as well. I tried it in the low teens and twenties and still had the issued. I tried it with the Volume on the DD15 at "8" and still have the issue. The pop or rattle is odd in that it can be heard after the bass that the sub puts out...and is really hard to pin down where it is coming from or the exact sound it makes...put popping would be very close. Did you every find the source of the problem? Which DTS track caused the issue. I am concerned becuase to get rid of it, I have to calibrate the DD15 almost 10db below refrence....and at that point it doens't sound any better than my old HSU. Let me know. Thanks - Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Does your 15 do this on all material? Do you have examples (songs/movies) and what volume is your receiver or pre set to when this happens? Do you have a large open room?

The popping sound my DD-18 made was during the opening track of Porcupine Tree's Stupid Dream DTS DVD. The track is "Even Less" and it has big bass, guitar and kick drum hits that seem to cause the pop. Downing the Velos volume from 30 to 18 solved my problem. I have not noticed this on any other program material (even WOTW Pod emerging scene played at crazy levels) so for me I think the problem is solved.

Not on all matrial. It works well some of the time, but I think the problem resides in scenes with low bass. As I mentioned before, it seems like the rattle/popping continues on and is moss noticable after the bass...because if the bass is fast and followed up by a silent passage, you can hear the rattle/popping by itself. My brother thought that the floor boards above were creaking from someone was walking above it when he heard it (which is not the case...they are silent becasue there are isolation clips, 2 layers of drywall and green glue for sound isolation in the theater). When he realized it was my sub causing the audible problem he told me to get them to replace it.

I will see if I have some time this evening to write down several examples of scenes and times that cause the issue. Off the top of my head I know the train scene in I-Robot causes the issue, the scene in The Haunting where the ghost knocks on the door causes the issue, as well as others. The Darla scene in Nemo is fine though...and I know causes issues with other subs.

I have the sub calibrated to 73db now with my preamp's internal test tones (with the rest of the speakers calibrated to 75db) and the volume of the DD15 has been lowered from the 30's to around 10 per Velodyne's suggestion. Playing at -10 to -13 below reference (and w/o the sub issues playing at reference is possible in my theater) I get the issues. I don't have that DVD that you mention or I would try it. Thoughts?

barhoram,

First step in resolving this problem is to be sure that its the sub and not something in the room that's causing this noise. I take it that you've already tried playing the passage that causes this sound with the door to the room open to relieve some of the pressurization of the room.

Otherwise, take the sub outside and play something that you know causes the noise. Should just need a DVD player and the sub routing the coax out of the player to the LFE input of the sub.

...and unless you play your system at insane levels, do turn your sub up to even to 5 dbs hotter than the mains.

Jim,

Thanks for the info. I have tried playing with both the door to the theater and the door to equipment room open and I still have the issue. I also tried it both on the carpeted floor and on the stage packed with about a ton of sand and still have the issue. I did bring it into our main family room with 2 large openings and vaulted ceilings and was able to re-create the problem. I haven't tried to lugg it outside yet.

As for the sub calibration...I had to turn it down lower that 75 db because of the issue above. It was much, much worse when I had it calibrated to 80 or even 78 db....I need to get this resolved so that I can run it hotter than the mains (which this sub should be able to do).

barhoram,

Since this is a DD series sub, do you happen to have one of the lower frequency sliders maxed out? Could you be using multiple equalizer sliders at about the same frequency?

This just reminded me of some definitive tech tower speakers that have built in subs that I had for a while. Over time they developed a noise below a certain frequency. Turned out to be a capacitor that was barely touching something else. Just needed to be bend it away. Have no idea why it didn't vibrate for several months as it was fairly rigid.

I have a Velodyne CT120 i have been using for about 5 years. It has stopped working. The light still comes on but doesn't work. Took off back panel and checked fuse which looks good but i will replace anyway. Any suggestions on what to try? I really want to get this sub working again and want to see if it will be worth fixing.

Thanks in advance.

Hi,
For service and repair issues contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800 EXT 3851. They can provide an estimate to repair the sub.
Curt

My Velodyne HGS-18 sub just died. Getting the old flashing blue light.

See contact info in previous post.
Curt (480) 595-7141

See contact info in previous post.
Curt (480) 595-7141


You wouldn't think it would be that hard for someone to figure that out. :D

Hi,
Please contact our service manager David Santos at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com to see what can be done, or if you PM me your phone number I'll have someone from Velodyne service contact you.
Curt

Was talking to someone there with a less than great attitude and he gave me the number of a local repair shop. It's out of warranty, figures, and will cost a fortune. First sub in 16 years to go on me. A bunch of friends bought these on recommendation from me so to say I am not happy is an understatement.


Granted, I do not know the details but this little tirade seems unwarranted (pun intended). You have a sub that is out of warranty (what’s with the "figures", either it is or it isn't), the manufacturer suggests a local repair shop (presumably to save you the expense of shipping the sub) and you are complaining. As far as the attitude thing goes, you seem to have one yourself. Not surprising it came right back atcha.

Granted, I do not know the details but this little tirade seems unwarranted (pun intended). You have a sub that is out of warranty (what’s with the "figures", either it is or it isn't), the manufacturer suggests a local repair shop (presumably to save you the expense of shipping the sub) and you are complaining. As far as the attitude thing goes, you seem to have one yourself. Not surprising it came right back atcha.

Right, you don't know the details and I don't want to say anything more until I see how it plays out. If service is good, as it should be for a high end product, I will be the first to praise the company. If not well I'll let you know that way as well. It was a tirade based on a number of things. I edited out a number of things I'd originally written. You wouldn't want to see my big tirades. :p

I'd like to post an update. Velodyne has been in contact and have gone well above and beyond the call of duty in dealing with this. I have been treated with the utmost respect and that shows their customers matter to them. If anyone's sitting on the fence about buying a sub from them don't hesitate. The sound quality is unmatched and the service is superb.

Curt, I spoke with you on the phone a while back about my huge room and subwoofer ideas......i ended up keeping the two outlaw audio LFM-1 subs and purchased the Velodyne SMS-1 bass management for them......

one question though.....with both of the subs behind my listening position (one far left corner and one far right corner), and considering both subs are downward firing, do i want to set one of the sub's phase at 0 and the other at 180, or should they both be set at the same phase setting?

any other pointers to maximize results with both subs connected to the SMS before i run configuration?.....i assume i need to start by setting the level of one sub while the other is turned off and vice versa, before i try to run the EQ setup?

thanks again for any of your insight.....

Bradford

Hi,
Chances are '0' phase for both will be correct. You can try switching either and if it's louder at one phase position that will be the correct setting. If there's no difference go with '0'.
Yes set each sub's volume to be close to the same at listening position and then EQ them with both playing. When eq'ing concentrate on bringing peaks down and shoot for +/-3db (6db spread). Call me if you have questions.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141