Here's an update:

I used the trial DD-15 for about a week at volume settings between 13 and 18 without problem. Today I decided to start afresh and do a complete manual EQ all over again at a DD-15 volume of 20 (basically working my way up to the proper SPL level to match my main speakers). I also raised the sub output of my Anthem D2 from 0 to +3dB for this EQ. Preliminary SPL readings showed this combo gave a good match of SPL between the DD-15 and my mains.

The manual EQ process went just fine and after about 45 minutes I was getting ready to Save my final settings -- which were really quite good -- when POOF! the unit shut itself down just like before. No video output, no EQ audio output, no bass playing, and no response to the remote or the rear panel volume buttons.

[NOTE: All but 1 of my parametric filters were in negative territory. Only one, near 50 Hz, was at about +2. So I don't think the filter settings were stressing the unit. Also the back plate of the unit was cool to the touch when the unit shut down. The DD-15's mike was registering between 76 and 79dB across the range of the sweep.]

Velodyne is working the problem, but the basic assumption is that this is a thermal shutdown of the DD-15 amp output stage related to the repeated EQ sweep tone over a period approaching 1 hour. I'm leaving the unit disconnected from power overnight to see if it will come back to life as it did last time.

But I think folks need to be aware that even at "modest" DD-15 volume levels it is apparently not safe to play that EQ sweep continuously for periods approaching 1 hour.
--Bob

Update again:

After a little over an hour powered off (rear panel switch) I turned on the DD-15 again last night and found it had apparently cooled enough to get into what I think of as the "intermediate state" where it repeatedly cycles itself on and off every few seconds.

I turned it off again and left it off for the rest of the evening.

This morning I turned it on again and found, to my surprise, that it was *STILL* in the state of repeatedly cycling on and off. I now feared that this time letting the unit cool was not going to fix the problem!

But I decide to try a reset to defaults. Fortunately the "on" cycle lasted just long enough for me to do an 8-9-0 reset. And that worked! The unit displayed the "Defaults Restored" screen and stopped cycling on and off!

I find that interesting. It implies to me that whatever is going on is not just a hardware problem (heat sensors triggering) but also a software problem -- perhaps related to how long I was doing adjustments in manual EQ without every saving results and exiting.

In any event, with the unit now apparently in good shape again, I started over on manual EQ.

One of the reasons it takes me so long to do this is that I'm trying to come up with the best set of compromise settings for two different listening positions. My Anthem D2 pre-pro also has bass control features which provide additional tools for tackling this problem. So it takes a while.

But this time I saved results and exited every 5 minutes (or less) and then left the DD-15 powered on (12 volt trigger also active) but on it's main screen -- so no sweep tone -- for about the same amount of time.

Doing it in stages like this I was able to complete this pass of manual EQ experiments without problem and the unit is now back to playiing normal content. By the way, the compromise settings seem to be working well in both listening positions so it was well worth the effort.

I've passed this info on to Velodyne, but I'm really not sure what the next step should be.

If it is just a software problem then of course I now have a workaround until they find it and fix it.

If instead it is really the case that the unit -- by design -- can not tolerate long manual EQ sessions at Volume = 20, well that's not great engineering, but again I have a workaround so long as the shutdowns I've experienced so far have not in some sense "weakened" the amp or its protection circuitry.

But I'm pondering that there might be something going on in the voice coil that is causing these two amps to work harder than they are supposed to. And that's worrisome.

It just doesn't seem likely that I'm the only one out there doing long manual EQ sessions with one of these beasties.
--Bob

I figured I'd ask this question directly to Curt as he would know. I'm wondering which will have more SPL (punch) for HT use, the DD-15 or the SPL-1500R. I know the DD-15 has the servo which means less distortion, and also a better PEQ (though I have a SMS-1 now). So the servo based DD-15 with less THD would likely make it better for music, but what about HT and that "hit you in the chest" feeling?

Curt I've seen you say that the SPL-1500R will have slightly more SPL than the HGSX-15 and sound very similar with music material. But I'm not sure how the DD-15 compares to the HGSX-15 besides the PEQ difference.

Thanks in advance!

I'd like to post an update. Velodyne has been in contact and have gone well above and beyond the call of duty in dealing with this. I have been treated with the utmost respect and that shows their customers matter to them. If anyone's sitting on the fence about buying a sub from them don't hesitate. The sound quality is unmatched and the service is superb.


Thanks for the update. Your comments here mirror my experiences with Velodyne CS and service.

Off topic, did you ever get around to evaluating the Parasound C2?

Bob,
Glad you discovered a work around but still a troubling situation. I have had several longish (30 min) EQ sessions and never expierenced a problem with the DD-18. This is something that Velodyne can test and I would hope that they do just that.

Update again:

After a little over an hour powered off (rear panel switch) I turned on the DD-15 again last night and found it had apparently cooled enough to get into what I think of as the "intermediate state" where it repeatedly cycles itself on and off every few seconds.

I turned it off again and left it off for the rest of the evening.

This morning I turned it on again and found, to my surprise, that it was *STILL* in the state of repeatedly cycling on and off. I now feared that this time letting the unit cool was not going to fix the problem!

But I decide to try a reset to defaults. Fortunately the "on" cycle lasted just long enough for me to do an 8-9-0 reset. And that worked! The unit displayed the "Defaults Restored" screen and stopped cycling on and off!

I find that interesting. It implies to me that whatever is going on is not just a hardware problem (heat sensors triggering) but also a software problem -- perhaps related to how long I was doing adjustments in manual EQ without every saving results and exiting.

In any event, with the unit now apparently in good shape again, I started over on manual EQ.

One of the reasons it takes me so long to do this is that I'm trying to come up with the best set of compromise settings for two different listening positions. My Anthem D2 pre-pro also has bass control features which provide additional tools for tackling this problem. So it takes a while.

But this time I saved results and exited every 5 minutes (or less) and then left the DD-15 powered on (12 volt trigger also active) but on it's main screen -- so no sweep tone -- for about the same amount of time.

Doing it in stages like this I was able to complete this pass of manual EQ experiments without problem and the unit is now back to playiing normal content. By the way, the compromise settings seem to be working well in both listening positions so it was well worth the effort.

I've passed this info on to Velodyne, but I'm really not sure what the next step should be.

If it is just a software problem then of course I now have a workaround until they find it and fix it.

If instead it is really the case that the unit -- by design -- can not tolerate long manual EQ sessions at Volume = 20, well that's not great engineering, but again I have a workaround so long as the shutdowns I've experienced so far have not in some sense "weakened" the amp or its protection circuitry.

But I'm pondering that there might be something going on in the voice coil that is causing these two amps to work harder than they are supposed to. And that's worrisome.

It just doesn't seem likely that I'm the only one out there doing long manual EQ sessions with one of these beasties.
--Bob

Thanks for the update. Your comments here mirror my experiences with Velodyne CS and service.

Off topic, did you ever get around to evaluating the Parasound C2?

Next week. Right now can't tear myself from the AVP2.

I figured I'd ask this question directly to Curt as he would know. I'm wondering which will have more SPL (punch) for HT use, the DD-15 or the SPL-1500R. I know the DD-15 has the servo which means less distortion, and also a better PEQ (though I have a SMS-1 now). So the servo based DD-15 with less THD would likely make it better for music, but what about HT and that "hit you in the chest" feeling?

Curt I've seen you say that the SPL-1500R will have slightly more SPL than the HGSX-15 and sound very similar with music material. But I'm not sure how the DD-15 compares to the HGSX-15 besides the PEQ difference.

Thanks in advance!

Hi,
The DD-15 will play a little louder and go a bit deeper. Since I don't have room displacement information, I'm not sure what would be required to get the punch you want but I would suggest you check out the new 'SubContractor' line of subwoofers from Velodyne. They're on the website (www.velodyne.com). You could go with two SC-15's (passive subwoofers) and the outboard SC-1250 amp. Put your SMS-1 in front of the amp and you'll have one kick-ass system with up-most flexibility. Questions? Call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Since this is a DD series sub, do you happen to have one of the lower frequency sliders maxed out? Could you be using multiple equalizer sliders at about the same frequency?



Jim,

Good thought. I did think of this as well, and thought for a sec that perhaps my EQ configuration was causing the situation. I really only had cuts in the EQ settings, but just to be certain, I turned all of the EQ off. Unfortunately I still get the rattle/popping. Since Velodyne's had the unit in for service already, and it still exhibits the problem, they've advised me to contact my dealer again. Waiting on a return call from them now...and I will keep testing on my end. Any other thougts appreciated, as I am out of ideas other than a bad sub.

Barhoram,

When something like this happens to me, I generally try to start over.

Try unplugging all the signal wires and doing a reset on the equalizer.

Then reconnect the signal wire. Be sure that you're going in on the right input and not equalizer out.(that's for the testtone)

Jim,

Yep. I tried that...3 starts from scratch w/ resets back to facutory defaults and I still can't pin it down. Hopefully I will talk to the dealer today and move forward with a solution.

Hi,
The DD-15 will play a little louder and go a bit deeper. Since I don't have room displacement information, I'm not sure what would be required to get the punch you want but I would suggest you check out the new 'SubContractor' line of subwoofers from Velodyne. They're on the website (www.velodyne.com). You could go with two SC-15's (passive subwoofers) and the outboard SC-1250 amp. Put your SMS-1 in front of the amp and you'll have one kick-ass system with up-most flexibility. Questions? Call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141
Thanks for the advice Curt.

My room is about 3500 cu ft. and the sub will be placed "nearfield". I'd be getting a real steep price break on a demo SPL-1500R, that's why I'm so interested in it among other things. Street pricing, I could just about get two of the SPL-1500R's for the street price of one DD-15.
Anyway, what is the MRSP of the SubContractor series? Are the drivers the same as the SPL series? I noticed that the -3dB point is 22Hz compared to the 20Hz number of the SPL-1500R, must be because the box volume is smaller?

Thanks,
MF

Hi,
The drivers in the SubContractor series are the same as the SPL-R series. The list price for the SC-1250 amp is $999. and the SC-15's are $999. each. One SC-1250 amp can drive one or two SC subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,
Just out of curiosity, using one SC-1250 amp (which is rated higher than the SPL-1500R amp), how would one SC-15 compare in extension and SPL to one SPL-1500R? And again with one amp how would two SC-15's compare to two SPL-1500R's with regards to SPL and Extension? Again, I did notice that the -3dB point is 22Hz for the SC-15, and it's 20Hz for the SPL-1500R.
Thanks,
MF

Hi,
For all practical purposes they would perform and sound the same. I like the seperate amp and smaller enclosure, especially if you go with two subs.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
Thank you so much for your time and input. It is very much appreciated!!
Thanks again,
MF

Hello from Australia :),

I am looking at purchase of an SPL-1200 and was wondering if someone can share a brief overview of the differences between it and the equivalent DD model?? We've only had a local Velodyne dealer for about 3 days now so he doesn't know a lot about the products yet :P.

I gather there is the accelerometer feedback from the cone that reduces distortion/error on the DD. Does the SPL have a similar system? if not how much distortion does it produce. (and does it make a real audible difference)??

I'm upgrading from a B&W ASW1000 which I don't find that good for music (perhaps someone with experience with htis sub can give an example of how it compares to the SLP/DD models??).

Hi,
I sent you a PM. Perhaps others have had experience with the B&W and can share their experience.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi everyone,
I read in the manual of the CHT-12r that it has these features, Anti-clipping circuit and Over-excursion protection. Does this mean that the subwoofer is well-protected from bottoming?
Thanks,
Reuel

Hi,
Yes the subwoofer is 'well-protected' from bottoming out.
Curt

Hi,
I sent you a PM. Perhaps others have had experience with the B&W and can share their experience.
Thanks,
Curt


Curt,

Since the questioner asked about the differences between the SPL Series and DD, I'm kinda curious as to why you prefer to share this info in a private pm, rather than in the general support thread? I would think that many of us would be interested to read general information such as this. After all, that IS what a support thread's all about, no? :)

Just kinda curious since I've noticed you do this somewhat frequently.

Thanks,

Ran

Hi,
Since MGROBINS was new to the thread and the product I wanted to make sure he was aware of the information on the website, www.velodyne.com. and I am not familiar with the B&W subwoofer he asked about and thought others might want to share their experiences with not only the B&W but also the DD and SPL series and the choices they made.
The DD series have an on-board computer for three forms of eq; self, auto and manual with eight bands of eq allowing the most flexible room set-up of any available subwoofer. This flexibility is carried over to the set-up page where one can choose crossovers, slopes, polarity, phase adjustments, subsonic filters and many other options. All the DD features are user controlled by a remote control. In short with servo feed-back control, it is the finest subwoofer in the world, IMO, both in measurement and sonics. It is 'state of the art'.
The SPL-R series is a prime example of 'trickle down technology', the amp and driver sharing the same technology as the DD. Utilizing a computer (T.I.) chip for DSP, we offer a six band auto eq with four presets for different sources as well as phase settings, mute, a night mode and of course volume up/down all from a hand held remote.
As to sonic differences between the two series, my opinion is they sound very close. As I've stated before, I think the SPL-R series is the finest, non-servo subwoofer in the world. We put all our servo knowledge into the design of this product.
Choosing the proper size subwoofer is the most important element and many newcomers are not aware of that issue. As always, I encourage all to listen and try at home if possible any subwoofer before making a decision.
I also encourage phone calls and PMs as well as posts. Just realize I'm not always available on weekends.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the informative reply, Curt. I think we ALL appreciate it.

In the future, I would highly encourage you to reconsider whether a questioner's query is worth depriving the rest of us of your subwoofing knowledge. We're ALL on the "quest", and if the question is general in nature, we'll ALL learn by your reply. Many thanks.

As for correctly sizing a subwoofer, I think that sub size, room size, and preferred listening volumes are all inextricably linked. Change one, and the whole equation changes. If one mostly listens to music at low volumes, heck, even a DD-10 would probably be fine for almost ANY size room. Most folks never mention their room volume nor their average listening levels. In my 3500ft³ condo living room, my DD-10 did a pretty darned good job, but that's because I'm not a cranker and am somewhat limited by condo rules. Nevertheless, I upgraded to a DD-12 only because I didn't want the driver to work as hard. If one sees the driver flapping on a regular basis, that's a fairly decent indication that it's being overworked...time to lower the volume or buy a bigger sub.

Ran

ps- I've experimented with a single DD-10, dual DD-10's, single and dual DD-12's. In my room, all the combos did the job, but the most sensible choice for me is my single DD-12.

Ok, which Velodyne sub is a good match for my home theater setup?
Maple, Maple/Black, or Black

My place = 14' x 50' loft, 20' ceilings
Other Speakers = KEF iQ9 speakers (to the left and right of a 120" projector screen)

My taste=
75% XviD/DVD Shows/Movies
15% Music
10% XBOX

I will also have ButtKickers in my couch. (for added punch already)

I was going to go SVS, but it might be a bit to "boomy" for my loft. I'm told to go Veodyne for the most pleasant sounding, deep bass.

$500 to $1300 range

Hi,
Start with two DLS-5000R's ($799. each) and add as necessary. At 14K cubic feet, this is a challenge for even a large budget. You might want to give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
I was given a broken 15" Velodyne subwoofer- F1500R-B. It doesn't play beyond a faint distorted noise. I took the plate amp out and the main circuit board is all burned and singed under the power storage caps. I don't think I can fix it anymore. Anyone here aware of an F1500 amp or the main amplifier board for sale? Are those still available as replacement parts?

Maybe there is a complete sub with bad woofer or broken box for sale somewhere? Just checking for any leads I can get.

Alternatively, can I put a different Velodyne amp to work there and not lose the servo circuit?
TIA for any help I can get.

Jan

Hi,
No other amp will work for the servo. I suggest you call Velodyne's service manager, David Santos to see if your's can be repaired.
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

I was hoping you could clear up some confusion for me. I have a DPS-10 and a Harman/Kardon AVR-435. I have a decent understanding of crossovers and their settings, however: Per the DPS-10 specs, it has a frequency range of 28-120Hz. If I set the sub size in the AVR-435 to 10 inches, it activates a 30Hz high pass filter. If I set the sub size in the AVR-435 to 12 inches, it activates a 20Hz high pass filter. A 15 inch size = 15Hz high pass filter.

One of the things that confuses me is, that although the stated specs for the sub are 28-120Hz, the insert with the owner's manual explaining the EQ settings for the presets (Movies, Jazz, etc.) mentions a 24Hz filter.

Therefore, if I set the sub size to 10 inches and the AVR activates the 30Hz filter, will I lose some frequencies which the DPS-10 can reproduce? If I set the AVR sub size to 12 inches I'm worried the sub will try to produce frequencies it can't and thus sound boomy and sloppy. By the way, HKs EZSet/EQ detects the sub as a 12 inch sub.

So, what sub size setting should I use in the AVR-435?

Thanks for your help!

Hi,
Actually in use it really doesn't matter that much. The difference between 28hz and 30hz isn't much and I doubt you would notice any difference between the two settings. You should try both the 10" and 12" settings and if you don't notice any difference I'd go with the 10" setting. The high-pass filters in your receiver are 'subsonic filters'. The Velodyne will be okay with either setting.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the quick answer!

Could you please explain the reference to the 24Hz subsonic filter in the DPS-10's owner's manual? I'm just slightly confused as to the mention of a 24Hz filter with a sub rated down to 28Hz.

Thanks!

Hi,
The response is rated -3db (down) at 28hz. There will be rolled off response below that. We are placing our subsonic filter at 24hz to protect the subwoofer. Subsonic filters are usually placed at a frequency below the lowest rated frequency. Hope this helps if not call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt!

That's exactly what I thought was going on. When I can afford a killer sub, it will definately be a Velodyne!

Thanks again.

Hi-
I was hoping I could get an opinion on hookup options for a DD-12. I have a sim audio pre-amp processor that I use for both watching movies and listening to music. I actually place the biggest emphasis on my music and use the ht bypass on the sim which is great. It seemed like to use the velodyne best for the ht bypass but still get some usage for watching movies the speaker level connection would be best? That way I would set the processor to no subwoofer and have the bass redirected to the front speakers and could than continue to use the bypass rather than running my signal through another D/A and A/D conversion. Any suggestions/confirmation would be great! :) Thansk in advance
Jon

Hi,
Your suggested hook-up is probably the best method since you want to use H/T bypass.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt-
Just out of curiosity, is there any added benefit to sending my pre-amp outputs directly to the velodyne and than connecting the velodyne outputs to my amp?

The advantage is you would go through our 80hz high pass filter so your speakers would be relieved of the deep bass demands, in effect you would be biamping.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt-
If I'm using the ht bypass mode and therefore bypassing the internal crossover of my pre/pro aren't I using the internal crossover on the velodyne anyway (at least in two channel)?
Thanks,
Jon

Hi,
It depends on how you hook it up. There are low-pass filters and a high pass filter in the DD sub. If you go in and then out of the Velodyne you're using both filters, with either line level or speaker level hook up. If you just go into (and not out) the DD with either line or speaker level then you would be utilizing just the low pass filter. If this isn't clear, please call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Just to not leave things hanging, here's the result of the issue I was having with my trial DD-15 shutting down during and just after the manual EQ process.

The upshot was that we've decided I did indeed manage to stress the unit during the EQ and that it was doing just what it was supposed to do to protect itself.

The unit was not damaged by this and now that the the EQ process has been completed it sounds just fine. I also know how to EQ it in the future without stressing it so much (i.e., don't let the sweep tone run for so long and keep the DD-15 Volume setting lower).

I completed the purchase today.

Thanks to Curt and the rest of the team at Velodyne for sorting this out.
--Bob

Any Opinions on the Vrp-1200 ?

I have Infinity 360's +150's and C25 I just need a Sub i was considering the PS12 to match

but i was reading about the Vrp-1200 and it seems pretty good any opinions or comparisons with the PS12 ?

thanks

hi everyone!
I have just received my brand new DD15 and i was wondering whether i should bypass the integrated crossover in the velodyne and let my lexicon RV-8 deal with the high-pass filter as i think i remember someone here said it would be better not to have two filters in the chain...anywho, it s quite fuzzy and i d like to be sure

Hi,

Is a "Velodyne 10 inch" subwoofer worth $150? I found the deal at Frys.

Main interests:
60% Music
40% Movies

The room it will be in is fairly small. I'm mainly looking for clean accurate bass. Extension is a secondary concern right now, but still pretty important, I feel.

Hi,
For your set-up, I recommend you bypass the DD's crossover. You Lexicon will deal with both the low and high pass filter.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Anyone here venture an educated guess as what an HGS 10 would be worth? It was sent back to Velodyne for a problem that turned out to be the cable but got an amp upgrade as a bonus back in 2003. I've tried searching E-Bay and all the other "usual suspects" but have come up empty.

You might want to search Audiogon.com as well.

Typically, a used HGS-10 version II (with the upgraded amp) in MINT condition would sell in the ballpark of $750 or so...maybe a tiny bit higher on Ebay, maybe a little lower on audiogon. The fact that the DD-10 has taken its place depresses its value some.

Thank you, i'll try both. I figured it would take a hit since many new models have been introduced from Velo as well as from similar other manufacturers.

Hello,
I have an Onkyo S-580 system which is basically the R-330 receiver. This receiver specs lists speaker impedance from 8-16ohms. The velodyne CHT FRS 5.1 speaker package is all 6ohms, but says they are compatible with an 8ohm system. Is there anything I should be concerned or careful about using the Velodynes with the Onkyo R-330 receiver? I just ordered the speakers. Will the R-330 overload with these speakers? Thanks.

Hi,
We tested these speakers with several receivers which called for 8-16 ohm speakers and they worked fine. I have not heard of anyone having a problem, so you should be okay.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello All,

I have a Velodyne SPL-1200 that is about 5 years old that has stopped working. This sub is used in my home theater and is connected to a Onkyo TX DS-787 Receiver. The system is never abused and is used pretty much on a daily basis to watch movies. Recently the sub started making 'crackling' noise and is not putting out any sound, other than the 'crackling'. I have reseated the cable, switched the cable, but the noise persists. I even went so far as to attach the sub to another Onylo receiver that I have in another room and the still the same 'crackling'.

Any ideas or suggestions? I live in the Dallas area. Does anyone know of a good place to take it for repairs?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Mark

Cajun,
This is a hotly debated topic but of course, I do have an opinion. In short, I agree with Uncle Eric, but let me explain in my own (numerous) words.

As I see it, the implication that folks make when they say that a 15" or 18" driver is "slower" than a smaller 10" or 12" driver is either that the mass of the driver is such that the motor cannot move its weight with the same precision as that of the smaller driver and/or the cone is flexing enough so that the woofer sounds boomy or muddy. The latter effect will have more impact on the perceived boominess and muddiness of the driver (in that it will produce more distortion) so let’s address that first. This of course relates to cone stiffness, and a larger cone made of the same material will bend more and, in the worst case, buckle under the load of long throw bass combined with cabinet pressure. This is overcome with stiffer materials and/or cone reinforcement, and while it is true that a larger cone is subject to less linearity along the cone surface, this effect is minimized with a stiff enough cone. Too often, large drivers are made out of the same materials as smaller drivers and so aren’t stiff enough – this is where this perception likely started.

Regarding the driver being heavy to be moved correctly, there are three main forces opposing the motion of the cone structure: the weight of the cone, the pressure inside the box, and the resistance of the suspension (i.e. the surround and spider). It's true that the bigger the cone the more mass there is, but you'd be surprised how much the air pressure in the box and the suspension stiffness affect cone movement too.

All of these factors can be overcome by motor force, otherwise known in speaker land as BL. BL is the combination of magnet force combined with the length of voice coil wire in the gap. The higher the BL, the more motor force is applied to the cone. As a speaker designer, one has to ensure that there is enough BL to overcome the cone mass, suspension stiffness, and box design you are planning on. Not enough BL and your cone doesn't move correctly, and too much and you spent too much on the driver. Of course, one also needs sufficient amp power to drive the motor. We also use a high gain servo to make sure the cone movement is true to the input signal.

An often overlooked spec in comparing speakers is magnet weight. We use 310 ounce (19.3 pound) magnets for the DD-10 and DD-12 and 380 ounce (24 pound) magnets for the DD-15 ad DD-18. Why so big? Because we never want to run short of motor force and we need more BL for the 15 and 18.

Now let's talk efficiency. SPL= sound pressure level = amount of air moved by the speaker cone. Given similar travel distances (all DDs go up to 1.75" peak to peak), the formula is 2 pi r (i.e. cone area) * travel. Some simple math shows that a 15" cone moves a heck of a lot more air than a 10 or a 12. And an 18 more yet. Yet, the additional motor force to move the larger cones is disproportional to how much more air they move - so the larger the cone the more air is moved for less energy.

Lastly, let me comment on the phrases "slow" versus "fast". To us, these terms almost entirely describe the amount of perceived distortion the speaker is producing. That idea is somewhat radical, but we've based our designs on it for almost 20 years with a fair bit of success. We've strived for very low distortion in all our subs, and the DD-15s and DD-18s have no more than the DD-10s and DD-12s. So, we consider them as "fast" as anything going.

Re the 1812 - what we did there is let the 18 handle the lowest bass, since it's efficiency lets the long excursions needed for 40 Hz and below be reproduced with optimal use of BL and amp power. The 12's job is to handle the upper bass frequencies and not spend its headroom trying to recreate 20 Hz. The result is a sub that will play louder than either alone, or even in tandem, because we've optimized the efficiencies of both. This does not mean that a stand-alone 18 cannot play 100 Hz or that a stand alone 12 cannot play 20 Hz - but combined (and crossed over internally with special software) we can squeeze out more clean bass since the efficiency of each driver is optimized.

Sorry for the long post!

Bruce

Hi Bruce,

This is very informative. I am a serious audiophile and own a pair of Dynaudio Evidence Temptation($40,000). I enjoy going to Disney Hall to listent to philharmonic orchestra on a regular basis and am trying to replicate that sound at home. What is lacking with my speaker is the deep bass "weight" of the live event. I have been getting conflicting information from various people about how to achieve this, In my situation, I don't know if I'm better off getting two DD15 or DD18 or one 1812 Signature. With your article, it is apparent that I do not need to reproduce anything over 40 hz so 1812 is out of my consideration but perhaps I should go with 2 DD15 or 18s. What is the pro and cons of these models when it comes to reproducing below 40 hz?

Thanks

Hello All,

I have a Velodyne SPL-1200 that is about 5 years old that has stopped working. This sub is used in my home theater and is connected to a Onkyo TX DS-787 Receiver. The system is never abused and is used pretty much on a daily basis to watch movies. Recently the sub started making 'crackling' noise and is not putting out any sound, other than the 'crackling'. I have reseated the cable, switched the cable, but the noise persists. I even went so far as to attach the sub to another Onylo receiver that I have in another room and the still the same 'crackling'.

Any ideas or suggestions? I live in the Dallas area. Does anyone know of a good place to take it for repairs?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Mark

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, EXT 3851. You will only need to send in the amplifier section for repair.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello,
after several intense weeks of investigation and a trial of the DD15 at my home, I just got a DD18 two days ago and now I am not sure everythings works right. The DD15 used to make a "click"-ing noise when being switched on & off. Furthermore, if I remember correctly, the DD15 did not require any input signal after pressing the "PWR" button on the remote to start playing, even though the Auto On/Off Option was set to active.
However, pressing the "PWR" button on the remote for the DD18 will result in the blue light being switched on and the On-screen changes from the Power Off Mode to "normal" operation, indicating that the unit is not in stand-by. However there will be not output from the sub (and no audible "click"), unless I "feed" it a fairly loud signal. Changing the default AutoOn setting from active to inactive doesn't seem to have any effect.
Is this normal?

Many thanks in advance
Chris

PS: I have tried a reset (8-9-0) and the unit uses version 2.2.0 of the software.

Hi,
Please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,
I'm having a problem with my SMS-1. It is hooked via XLR input and outputs to a Theta Casablanca III and a Genelec 7035. I send an equalized output to an analogue input on the Theta.

When I go into the setup mode I get a test tone through all my speakers except my sub! I have bypassed the SMS-1 and my sub plays DVDs fine. I also tried using an XLR to RCA adapter to hook the Genelec into one of the equalized RCA outputs with the same result.

The only thing that I haven't tried, due to the hour, is to hook the XLR output to one of my amps that feed another speaker. That would absolutely confirm that the SMS-1 XLR output is not putting out a signal.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

Two private messages and a phone call later the mystery is solved....
1. Needed to reset the SMS-1.
2. User error. I sent my Theta in for upgrade and forgot that the speakers had to be configured for Xover not Full range. The processor wasn't sending the signal to the sub.

I appreciate the responsive tech support of Velodyne/Curt. Other companies could take lessons.

Dave

I have had my SMS-1 for a few months now and it has drastically improved the performance of my subwoofer. However, ever since I introduced it to my system I have suffered from a very low level "hum" in my speakers.

The hum occurs only when I connect the coax between my Denon 3805 and the SMS-1 - it does not occur unless this cable is connected. It also does not matter whether the SMS-1 is plugged in or not or whether the SMS is connected to the sub or whether the sub is even plugged in - hum is there as long as the SMS-1's sub-in RCA jack is connected to the receiver. Nothing else has changed in my system except the SMS-1. The hum is also still there even when I remove any and all connections from my television to the receiver. The only other items connected to the receiver are a Denon 3910 via Denonlink and component and a Yamaha Musiccast MCX-1000 Digital Audio Server via composite, toslink and coax audio. Everything is then plugged into an APC H15 voltage regulator/power conditioner and then plugged into our ungrounded wall outlet (our house is about 80 years old and has the original wiring).

I am a bit bemused at this issue and cannot figure it out. It appears to be a ground loop problem (even though our system is completely ungrounded). Any ideas on how to solve? Again, if the SMS's sub-in is removed from the system there is absolutely no hum (and that is with the sub directly connected to the receiver.

Thanks in advance.

Hi,
Have you tried a different interconnect cable? I'd also try it with the APC H15 out of the circuit. If neither helps contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos, dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Not sure if this has been addressed in this thread before, but I'm looking at getting a DD15. I've owned an HGS-12-II for years and simply love it. I'm upgrading my entire system and have decided to make the DD15 the centerpiece of my system.

Can anyone recommend a top notch set of components speakers to compliment the sub. My requirements are that the speakers need to be small or mid sized at best. Price, within reason, is not a major problem. I'm basically looking for recommendations on what others have paired with their DD15's, and their feedback.

The system will be mostly used for music via Sonos (75%) but will also have some home theater use (minimally, 20-25%). Any and all recommendations are welcome.


Happy thanksgiving.

Andrew

Not sure if this has been addressed in this thread before, but I'm looking at getting a DD15. I've owned an HGS-12-II for years and simply love it. I'm upgrading my entire system and have decided to make the DD15 the centerpiece of my system.

Can anyone recommend a top notch set of components speakers to compliment the sub. My requirements are that the speakers need to be small or mid sized at best. Price, within reason, is not a major problem. I'm basically looking for recommendations on what others have paired with their DD15's, and their feedback.

The system will be mostly used for music via Sonos (75%) but will also have some home theater use (minimally, 20-25%). Any and all recommendations are welcome.


Happy thanksgiving.

Andrew

Andrew,

I just got my DD15. It is a real house shaker. So far I do love it. Smooth in all ways and really good looking. Theater is 16W x 18D x 9H.

As far as the other components I went with B&W 703 mains as I am a music lover and wanted the full performance they offer over the 704s. The center is the HTM7 and then rounded it out with four Definitive Technology UIWBPZ/A' s. An old Denon AVR3300 and an even older Marantz 510M drive everything but the DD15.

Happy so far. Sheet rock going up next week and carpet in by Christmas.

Hope this helps. I could have spent more money but there are diminishing returns as I approach 60 and my hearing comes into doubt. :(

John

Thanks John. Those 703's are awesome. Congrat's on the progress of the theater and best of luck.

Andrew

Speakers are a very personal choice. I use active speakers (would never go back to passive) paired with my DD-12, but they are extremely revealing with flat response, which is not everyone's cup of tea..especially most "audiophiles". Then again, since most of your music will ostensibly consist of mostly compressed audio (mp3's) versus full wav files, you'll probably be happier with speakers that aren't too revealing. I would suggest that you ask your question in the speakers forum, and be prepared to go to your local dealer in order to hear what might make you happy. I would also check out pro audio equipment if you're looking for more of a "live" sound as opposed to a "warm" sound.

Good luck on your search.

Is it true the FSR-12 is no longer serviceable?? I either have a bad amp or driver and am looking at options...Can I use a substitute amp??

I might be looking for another woofer...Need to support 2500 cu ft with leakage to 3 rooms. I listen to 95% Ht and 5% music

options??

Hi,
Speakers and speaker parts are no longer available for ULD or F series subwoofers. We can often do repair work on the amplifiers. Please contact our service manager, Dave Santos to see what your options are. ( dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819)
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi looking to buy a sub my choice would be 2 dps12b or 1 DLS-5000R.
I already have 1 sub that good for 24+or-3db my room is 30' by16'.
Thanks for any Suggestions.

I look in this tread didn't see lots of info on dps serie is this
a serie thats new or not produce anymore :confused:

Hello, I just purchased a DLS-3750R and it peaks out at 102dB @50Hz measured from about a 4 ft away. Is this normal? The output seems way too low. I can turn up the volume all the way on the sub and receiver and it doesn't get any louder. I have a pair of JBL LX8s with 8" woofers fed 80watts each, and they produce 107db @ 50Hz before they start sounding ugly. The fronts shake the walls more than the DLS-3750R can. :(

The main problem is, when I turn up the volume, the fronts get louder but the DLS-3750R doesn't (some volume limiter I assume?) which causes a tonal unbalance (sub is loud at low levels, almost non existent at loud levels). I tried different crossover and phase settings but the volume just stops at a certain level. I'm taking this back to the store I bought it and have them look at it but thought I try here first.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gordon

Gordon,

Have you tried other listening mode presets on the sub ?

How do you have it connected? Do you have crossovers active in both your receiver and sub??(really shouldn't)

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. Yes I have tried the other modes and the max spl doesn't change. The only thing that changes is the DLS-3750R stops getting louder at a different volume level on the receiver. I'm not using the DLS-3750R's crossover (knob set at Direct), I'm using my Denon AVR-1905's crossover and have tried it at different points. The sub out on the Denon goes to the LFE input on the DLS-3750R. Tried the Active/Inactive power switch, that didn't do anything.

Gordon

Curt or Bruce, can you use a usb pda/serial adapter cable to download updates for the sms-1? The company of the cable is dynex and one end is usb and the other is serial adapter.

Thanks,
Brian

Gordon,
Try adding a y-adapter to the left and right input of the sub. Make sure to turn down the volumes of the sub and the receiver because the sub's volume will surely increase with these set up.
Thanks,
Reuel

Reuel,

Thanks for the suggestion. Curt already suggested this to me in a private message. Still didn't work. Took it to the store and found it wasn't defective. It seems this sub just doesn't get loud enough in my room environment although my front speakers don't seem to have a problem getting loud above 40Hz. Of course, I need something to get the bottom octave loud too. I'm going to try a different sub and/or a larger model.

Gordon

I have a VA12 that I used for home theater. It was connected to a higher end Denon AV rec. After a couple years it developed a hum that increases with the volume level. I have tried it on different receivers to no avail. I took it to a service center and they could not replicate the hum. I brought it home and connected it to another receiver that had no issues and the hum resumed.

Help

Hi,
Contact Velodyne sevice at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800 Ext. 3851. Have the serial number available. I assume you have tried different interconnect cables.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi. Fantastic thread.

Am seeking advice: Looking at buying one HGS-15 (2000-2001) versus two (also same era) SPLs - one is a 10BV, the other a 12.

My HT room is 32'L x 12'W x 8'H, sheetrocked, fully enclosed.

My current SVS 12" box sub (PB1-ISD) does not give me the punch I need during movie explosions, so I will be selling it.

I watch 90% movies, 10% music.

Which of the two options at the beginning will give me the most output? Looking to FEEL the explosions in my war movies.

Thank you.

Hi,
Of those two choices, I'd go with the HGS-15. The HGS will have lower frequency response and I'm not one to mix different size subwoofers. In your size room many would use a HGS-18 or two HGS-15's for maximum explosion punch.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

I have tried different interconnects and have been in touch with Velodyne. They referred me to the local authorized repair shop who was of no help. I was hoping someone might have experienced this HUM and might suggest a solution.

Thanks

I have a DD-18 and am noticing that to properly callibrate it to the rest of my speakers I had to turn down the preset volume on the sub to around 12. Even at that volume number, I had to callibrate my processor to around -2 dBs. Why would this be - anyone else notice this? Is the processor sending out such a strong signal that I would need to go from default of 28 to 12?

bobbi

Have you checked your speakers level in your receiver to be sure that it isn't pumping up the subwoofer signal?

I have a DD-18 and am noticing that to properly callibrate it to the rest of my speakers I had to turn down the preset volume on the sub to around 12. Even at that volume number, I had to callibrate my processor to around -2 dBs. Why would this be - anyone else notice this? Is the processor sending out such a strong signal that I would need to go from default of 28 to 12?

Hi,
'12' is a perfectly good number for a DD-18. Many are set lower than that. Much depends on room size, and main speakers. The default setting is more appropriate for the DD-10 and 12. Seldom would you need a DD-18 to be '28'.
Curt (480) 595-7141

bobbi

Have you checked your speakers level in your receiver to be sure that it isn't pumping up the subwoofer signal?

If I understand you correctly, that's the -2 that I mentioned in my post above. Subwoofer channel in processor set to -2. I could go to -0- to let the full signal through, but then lower the DD18 volume to 10 lets say to compensate back to the matching dB level.

Curt,
As you know there has been a long standing issue with the Anthem D2 and AVM-50 pre/pros not being able to recognize the S-video EQ user interface from the Velodyne DD series subs. Apparently this is also a problem with some other receivers and pre/pros, but not all.

With the Anthem products, if you switch the video scaler input from some other S-video source to the Velodyne, there is a brief glimpse of the Velodyne main screen and then the Anthem gives up and acts as if it has no valid video input.

On the other hand the Anthem can "pass through" the Velodyne S-video, unprocessed, to the Anthem's S-video output and that works just fine -- i.e., run a separate S-video cable from the Anthem to the TV and select that TV input when working with the Velodyne EQ screens.

--------------------------------------------------------------

There've been a a number of guess about why this doesn't work right, but so far no fix.

Now I've got a new guess. I think it is possible that the Anthem's video scaler input is having trouble synchronizing with the Velodyne's generated S-video because of the blue background on the Velodyne screens.

So, is there any way for the user to change the DD series EQ S-video background color to something else?
--Bob

Hello,

I have a question about setting up my Velodyne CT-120 Sub with my system. Here is what I’m working with:


Velodyne CHT front row system speakers (great buy BTW 199.00 and free shipping for a 40lb package!)

Harman/Kardon AVR 125

I know my system is pretty ghetto compared to most people around here but it’s all I can afford. Anyway, my question is how should I be setting up my sub? I have it connected via a splitter from my receiver sub out to the RCA style inputs on the sub.

On the sub I have Xover in/out, High pass 80/100 and a Low pass dial that I can set from 40 to 120.

I’m a little confused on exactly what I should be setting everything to, any suggestions?

Thank you,
BR

Hi,
In your receiver call your speakers 'small' and set the crossover to 120hz. On the sub set the Xover to 'out', the low-pass to 120hz and the high-pass doesn't matter, you're not using it.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
In your receiver call your speakers 'small' and set the crossover to 120hz. On the sub set the Xover to 'out', the low-pass to 120hz and the high-pass doesn't matter, you're not using it.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thank you Curt!

And I didn't at all mean that I think the brand Velodyne is ghetto. :)

Hi,
For the money, your system is fantastic and can hold it's own with those costing much, much more.
Enjoy.
Curt

I have had this sub for around a year now and have been satisified with it. We recently moved and since then it has started acting up.

I plugged it in exactly the same way I had it in the previous house to the same Yamaha (RX-V2600) receiver. After watching a movie for around 30 minutes it starts making a "vibrating" type of sound. It is a low, repetitive "brrr" sound that does not stop until I physically turn the sub off.

I have tried another cable and tried the other connections but the same thing happens.

Any idea why this may be happening?

c1001

Have you examined the cone for streching and/or tearing? It could be as simple as a loose screw, or a wire touching the cone intermittently.

Good luck!

c1001

Have you examined the cone for streching and/or tearing? It could be as simple as a loose screw, or a wire touching the cone intermittently.

Good luck!


The cone is untouched and gtg. The vibrating sound seems electronic and not mechanical, and, it seems to be happening only with DVD play. I've been playing CDs with the bass turned up for hours and everything is playing normally.

Hi,
I sent you a PM with Velodyne service contact info. It appears your amp needs service. DVD's put a much heavier demand on a subwoofer than do most CD's. Be sure to use a 'Y' splitter into both sub inputs, raise the receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack and keep the SPL's volume well below half way.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Of those two choices, I'd go with the HGS-15. The HGS will have lower frequency response and I'm not one to mix different size subwoofers. In your size room many would use a HGS-18 or two HGS-15's for maximum explosion punch.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141


Thank you, Curt! Because size does matter to me (smaller=better), how much additional output do you think a single HGS-18 would give me over a single HGS-15?

Hi,
In the ballpark of 6-9 db. I usually equate one HGS-18 to two HGS-15's.
Curt

Curt-
Was hoping to ask you two questions. I'm in the process of setting up a DD-12. When trying to set an appropriate crossover frequency, is the crossover point supposed to be on the x or y axis of the graph (I know stupid question).
Second, the software is only letting me go down to 40 hz and it looks from the manual you are supposed to be able to go down to 15? It does go appropriately all the way up to 199 and everything else appears to be operating correctly.
Thanks!
Jon

Hi,
If I understand your question, I guess the answer is 'Y'. You want to select a X'over frequency that is where the roll-off of your speakers begin. Some would suggest a -3db (of your speakers) as a starting point. Some users like overlap, some don't. I would experiment with frequencies and slopes until I got a fairly level transition at X'over. On 2.2 the low-pass minimum was changed to 40hz. It was felt that 40hz was as low as anyone would need. That will likely be moved down in the next update.
If this doesn't help, give me a call.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt-
Do you suggest trial and error in terms of getting a smooth transition with the crossover or is it better to find the specs on your main speakers (mine happen to be dynaudio and for whatever reason they don't list it in the manual or on their web site).

Hi,
You won't need the speaker specs. When you play the sweep (EQ output of the DD goes into a vacant input on your preamp) through your speakers with the sub muted, you'll see exactly where they are rolling off and set your X'over accordingly. So not much trial and error involved.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt-
Just pinged you a message....your last post made something clear for me though. I had not realized that the curve you got with the sub muted showed you where the main speakers rolled off. Like I mentioned in my message I'll give you a ring next week.
Thanks!
Jon

Greetings,

I apologize if this has been asked before, but...

Is it possible to get part(s), or even better a kit, to replace the foam surround on a ULD-15? The surround on mine has rotted out (can't use the sub), and the nearest repair center is quite some distance. I'm sure I could replace it myself if I could get the part(s).

Thanks

Hi,
I'm sorry we do not have any parts for the ULD drivers. There are a few companies that do the surround on these drivers but I don't know any that have kits for sale.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks.

I recently acquired a used HGS-12 subwoofer from ebay. Not 1 month of playing at extremely moderate volumes and it no longer plays. It sounds as if there's a short of some sort in the wiring. I've been hesitant to open the device but should I as part of an investigation? In the event I require service, where or who can I contact?

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, Ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt & other follow forum members:

Great forum. Nice to find it. I can use some advice here:

In my family room (size: about 3500 cubic feet), I have a Velodyne HGS 12, B& W 805 Nautilus speakers and Yamaha RXV 4600 receiver. I use them 50% for music, 50% TV.

In my basement’s “home theater” (20’ long X 15’ wide X 8’ high), I have the following equipment:

Front main speakers: B&W CDM7
Center speaker: B&W CDMC
Rear surround speakers: B&W CMD1
Subwoofer: Sunfire True Subwoofer MK
Receiver: Yamaha RXV-2700
TV: Sony KDSR60”XBR2
Cable: Verizon Fios


I am looking to replace my Sunfire subwoofer in my basement with a Velodyne. I will be using the home theater 60% for HD TV (mostly sports, concerts, movies) and 40% for DVD movies. My budget for the new subwoofer will be around $1000. Here are my questions:

1. Should I relocate the Velodyne HGS 12 from my family room to the basement for the home theater? What should I buy for the family room then? Or
2. Buy a new Velodyne for the basement? Which one?

TIA for any advice,

Bimmerguy

Hi,
A couple of recommendations;
1) Family Room; Move the HGS-12 (small for your existing room) to the basement and replace with a DD-15 (way over budget) or a used or demo HGS-15.
2) Basement; Install a DLS-5000R.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
A couple of recommendations;
1) Family Room; Move the HGS-12 (small for your existing room) to the basement and replace with a DD-15 (way over budget) or a used or demo HGS-15.
2) Basement; Install a DLS-5000R.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141


Curt:

Thanks for the quick reply. For my basement, how would a DLS-5000R compare to a SPL-800R (mostly for sports, concerts, movies)?

Thanks,

Bimmerbuy

Hi,
The SPL-800R is too small to have the proper effect for DVD's and concerts. The DLS-5000R can play much louder and handle the rumbles and explosions. The SPL-1200R or SPL-1500R would be fine. You might want to give me a call.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
The SPL-800R is too small to have the proper effect for DVD's and concerts. The DLS-5000R can play much louder and handle the rumbles and explosions. The SPL-1200R or SPL-1500R would be fine. You might want to give me a call.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thank you. I will call you in a day or too.

Hi. What a great thread! I have an older F-1500 that is acting up. It plays just fine, however, when at idle it produces a hiss that is loud enough to be heard from my listening position 14 ft. away. It makes this sound regardless of whether I’m feeding it a signal or not (no physical connection to the RCA input). If I simply touch the plate amp in back this hiss is reduced by at least half and almost becomes acceptable, although there should really be no hiss at all.

Even more frustrating is that I have a Buttkicker and when that is hooked up via a ‘Y’ splitter in the RCA line the sub hums quite loudly. At first I thought I might have a ground loop issue and purchased the Radio Shack isolator mentioned in the Buttkicker manual. This does not solve the problem. I also have a couple of cheap KLH subs sharing the preamp signal with the Buttkicker and F-1500 and they have no hum problem at all with the Buttkicker hooked up so I do not have a ground loop problem. The Velodyne should not be affected by the Buttkicker.

Another oddity is that if I place my hand in front of the subwoofer driver the whole driver moves in and out as I move my hand closer then further from the cone, without touching it as if there was some magnetic force in my hand moving the driver. I’m thinking that this effect, as well as the hiss becoming softer when I touch the amp, has something to do with the capacitance of my body. It’s like the servo circuit has lost its reference or something and has just gone nuts? What the heck is happening with my sub?

It also has a pretty loud pop when I turn it on and off with the remote. It did not do that when new (I’m the original owner of this sub and have had it 11 years now). These hiss, hum and pop issues are very frustrating and I’m hoping that they can be fixed at a reasonable cost without having to send the whole sub in somewhere. Are these all symptoms of a known problem with a known fix?

Another quick question; do I actually have an F-1500R since it has a remote? None of my literature says that but I’ve seen these advertised in classifieds as either F-1500 or F-1500R and am assuming that’s the difference as some of these don’t have IR receivers or remotes. Thanks.

Brent

Hi,
If your F-1500 has a remote then it is a F-1500R. You need to contact our service manager, Dave Santos (dave.santos@velodyne.com, or 408-465-2819) as to what repairs are required or possible for your subwoofer. In most cases we can still service the amp section of the F-series.
Thanks,
Curt

ok gang after reading ALL 96 pages and reading some very good advice i now present my situation. please don't laugh at my setup as it is still a work in progress.
current setup
Pioneer Elite 50" plasma
Denon 4306
Oppo 971
Motorola 4DTV 922
Motorola HDD 200
Klipsch ksf 8.5 fronts 36hz-20kHZ 94 db 75 watts
klipsch ksf C5 center 63 hz-20kHZ 96 db 100 watts
klipsch ksf S5 surrounds 60 hz-20kHZ 93 db 100 watts
velodyne VA8100x settings
volume 5
lowpass80
phase 180
xover out
power auto
single RCA from denon to right input only
denon settings
front small 40 hz
center small 60 hz
rear small 40 hz
sub yes LFE 80 hz
the room size is 15wx24L x9H upto 10.5 feet
one opening of 6 x 7 into a room 13 x 35 x 8
now i know that the sub is too small but its what i have to work with what settings would you recomend with the current setup and what would be ideal when i goto replace the current sub? i know that this is by far the best place to find the exact answer that i'm looking for without all the hype. thanks in advance for any and all help on this dilemma.
sub is yes and set to LFE

Hi all.

i am in the market for the SPL-1500R and was wondering if anyone here had heard it and could share their impressions? i am looking to use this in a 2700cu ft room with opening into the rest of the basement.


thanks in advance

[QUOTE=
now i know that the sub is too small but its what i have to work with what settings would you recomend with the current setup and what would be ideal when i goto replace the current sub? i know that this is by far the best place to find the exact answer that i'm looking for without all the hype. thanks in advance for any and all help on this dilemma.
sub is yes and set to LFE[/QUOTE]

Hi,
Needless to say, you are way undersubbed. ASAP get yourself one or two DLS-5000R's. When you have large enough subs, it usually works best to cross over all your speakers at around 80hz. In your your current set-up use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs of the subwoofer. Tell Santa you need a BIG subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi All,
I am new to this thread. I have a ULD-12 sub woofer in my HT system couples with polk RM7400, RM7302 and RM7300 speakers.
I placed my sub behind sofa at left-back corner of the room, which is the best place for me so far. The bass sound is terrific and perfect.
However, I have two problems. first, The bass sounds great but I fell it weight too much at back of the room. Second, ULD-12 does not come with a phase switch and my H/K receiver does not have one either. So, I was wondering that could I swap the red and black wires on the driver of ULD-12 to switch the phase.
Thanks all

Hi,
This is a servo feed-back subwoofer and you cannot switch the speaker wires. IMO, I doubt changing the phase would accomplish anything. You could change all the other speaker wires to see if phase is an issue. I suggest you turn down the subwoofer's volume a bit and see if that helps. You might also try a lower X'over point in your receiver.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I have had this sub for around a year now and have been satisified with it. We recently moved and since then it has started acting up.

I plugged it in exactly the same way I had it in the previous house to the same Yamaha (RX-V2600) receiver. After watching a movie for around 30 minutes it starts making a "vibrating" type of sound. It is a low, repetitive "brrr" sound that does not stop until I physically turn the sub off.

I have tried another cable and tried the other connections but the same thing happens.

Any idea why this may be happening?

Follow-up to my original message:
Velodyne was awesome with their response. They thought my amp went bad. I walked in and they replaced the amp in 45 minutes. They cautioned me that Lutron light dimmers are known to cause this kind of interference with Velodynes. I had Lutrons in my previous house and never had a problem, so I was skeptical as I plugged my sub back into the system.

Turns out one of the Lutron dimmers in my new house was the problem. I turned it on and the vibrating sound started again. Turned it off and the noise disappeared.

curt, i will look into getting at least one ordered by this weekend. thanks curious as to why this sub? the velodyne site offered many different recomendations so hard to chose what will work best.

Hi,
The DLS-5000R is an excellent match for Klipsch speakers being a high-efficient (bass reflex) design. If budget is not a consideration, You could certainly start with a DD-18. In my experience users with Klipsch are most satisfied with one or more DLS-5000R's. I always suggest those who want in-depth info and recommendations call me and I extend that invite to you. So my recommendation was based on experience and 'gut' feeling.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
This is a servo feed-back subwoofer and you cannot switch the speaker wires. IMO, I doubt changing the phase would accomplish anything. You could change all the other speaker wires to see if phase is an issue. I suggest you turn down the subwoofer's volume a bit and see if that helps. You might also try a lower X'over point in your receiver.
Curt (480) 595-7141
Hi Curt,
I did tried the things you mentioned about. Everything turned out like you said. Now, My HT system sounds way batter than before. Thanks for the good help.

BTW, I have one more question. I found that when I use Y cable to feed LEF to L/R, the sub woofer goes louder. But, Some time the protect circuit shuts off the sub woofer when playing in loud volume. So, I was wondering that should I use Y cable to feed ULD-12 L/R channel and turn down the sub's volume or just connect LEF to one of them. And is it normal for the ULD-12 sub woofer?
Thanks again

Hi,
Leave the 'Y' in and turn down the sub's volume a bit. The ULD-12 never was a (real) loud player, very accurate though.
Curt

Follow-up to my original message:
...snip...

Turns out one of the Lutron dimmers in my new house was the problem. I turned it on and the vibrating sound started again. Turned it off and the noise disappeared.

My Tivo remote triggers the CO2 sensor in my smoke alarms. You'd think they'd keep the smoke alarms on seperate frequencies. lol

My Velodyne DLS 3750 subwoofer, which has been working perfectly for about a year, and is in my family room and used about 50 times so far, now has a low frequency noise emanating from it when the audio system is not on. I unplugged the audio cable and it still makes the noise. so it only occurs with the unit plugged in. I unplugged and waited, then re-plugged and it started again. Sometimes it is steady, other times it comes on for 5 seconds, then off 5 seconds. Sounds like a furnace burner coming on.
I turned off and on the switch in the back, same thing. Has this unit gone bad already?

I had unit off for about a half hour, then turned it back on. The noise did not come back. so far so good.....
The noise came back. When I turn the power switch to OFF in the back, it goes off. but when I use the remote to turn the power OFF, the sound does not go away....
Strange. Please help

Curt,

Will the DD suplied microphone allow for accurate frequency response in the higher ranges above 200Hz?

I'm looking to use my Intel Mac mini to attempt room correction with my mains, but don't know if the supplied DD mic will work with the higher frequencies.

Thanks,

Mark

yatchaks,

If you want to use the mic for testing frequencies above the subwoofer range, then you need to send it off for calibration which is actually a misnomer. What they do is create a correction file that is downloaded into your calibration software.

I did this a couple of years before the SMS-1 came out and found that the lower frequencies had very little adjustment, but higher up there were some significant changes.

yatchaks,

If you want to use the mic for testing frequencies above the subwoofer range, then you need to send it off for calibration which is actually a misnomer. What they do is create a correction file that is downloaded into your calibration software.

I did this a couple of years before the SMS-1 came out and found that the lower frequencies had very little adjustment, but higher up there were some significant changes.

Thanks Jim.

Need help, new DD-15 will not pick up sound when doing the frequency scan when setting up. Can hear the sound though sub and main speakers and see the the sweep on the tv screen but will not come off a flatline. Same thing when I do the self-eq run the sound but no response for the mic. If I tap the mic then it seems to work. I see the graph go up on the display. But know matter how loud I play the receiver, graph will not show it's picking the sound up. Drove 6 hours one way to pick it up on the weekend. Help

Need help, new DD-15 will not pick up sound when doing the frequency scan when setting up. Can hear the sound though sub and main speakers and see the the sweep on the tv screen but will not come off a flatline. Same thing when I do the self-eq run the sound but no response for the mic. If I tap the mic then it seems to work. I see the graph go up on the display. But know matter how loud I play the receiver, graph will not show it's picking the sound up. Drove 6 hours one way to pick it up on the weekend. Help


Must be the Mic or cable. Even if you had the sub on mute it would still show the others speakers output. You might try re-checking all connections, power down and re-start.

Hi,
There's also a mic connection on the front. Try that one too.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the info. I started using it for while then went back and tried the set up again and now it is working fine. Barely turn up the volume and it registers on the graph. Seems to be fine now. No clue why it didn't work the first time.

Looking for a new sub for my bedroom I now have a polk PSW10 sounds just a little weak no punch. I'm thinking that maybe the Mini Vee will work. Giving me more punch. I'm looking for some input.My room size 12x18 my current system is :
My set up is the following
Bedroom sounds!
Pioneer Elite Receiver VSX82TXS
Pioneer Elite DVD DV-46AV
Sony Bravia 40XBR1
Motorola DCT-6412 Digital Cable Box With DVR
Polk RTi 8's front
Polk T20e rear
Polk RM 202 center
Polk PSW 10 sub

Hi,
The sub you have, a 10" bass reflex (ported) design probably plays louder than the sealed box MiniVee which is designed for smaller shut-off rooms. For more volume and punch than you now have, I suggest you look at the SPL-1000R or the SPL-1200R. Ideally find a dealer who will let you 'test drive' the different sizes.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt, I lost the microphone windscreen cover for my DD-10. Does Velodyne charge for these?

Hi,
The sub you have, a 10" bass reflex (ported) design probably plays louder than the sealed box MiniVee which is designed for smaller shut-off rooms. For more volume and punch than you now have, I suggest you look at the SPL-1000R or the SPL-1200R. Ideally find a dealer who will let you 'test drive' the different sizes.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks I'll take a look at them & listen. I've heard the Mini Vee sounds good just wonder for the price differance is the SPL"s worth it. Remember small bedroom townhouse. I like it loud & clear just not too loud.

Curt, I lost the microphone windscreen cover for my DD-10. Does Velodyne charge for these?

Update: Velodyne is sending me a new one. Thanks to Pete (customer service) and Curt for the help!

I did not realise there was such a comprehensive Velodyne support thread until someone gave me a hint. I guess this is not even much off-topic even if I'm not talking about subs.

So please see:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=760993
and tell me what you think.

I did not realise there was such a comprehensive Velodyne support thread until someone gave me a hint. I guess this is not even much off-topic even if I'm not talking about subs.

So please see:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=760993
and tell me what you think.

Curt, the post FinnSpeed is referring to is #5 in the thread, above. I'm also interested in hearing the outcome of this. I just received my CHT's and haven't hooked them up, yet.

Thanks,
Pinecrest

Sorry I failed to mention the post # but the thread is quite short. ;)

Shortly, the speakers look like they were well designed (crossover too) and bass is good. However, to my ears it sounds like the tweeters are out of spec, they have lost their sensitivity. Is this possible (during 4 years in storage)?

Pinecrest, I hope you test them soon and when you do, pay attention to the highs. Are the individual speakers different?

A follow up to a previous posting a few months ago about my Velodyne SPL-1200 Series II subwoofer which had failed:

Thank you to everyone at Velodyne, especially Pete, who went above and beyond to make sure that I was taken care of as a customer. They contacted me and made sure that things were taken care of; way way above what my expectations could have ever been.

I cannot say enough about the customer service I've been provided in the past few months. I will definitely continue to buy Velodyne products in the future and will highly recommend them to anyone I know.

Thank you so much!
Ted Wheeler

Curt, the post FinnSpeed is referring to is #5 in the thread, above. I'm also interested in hearing the outcome of this. I just received my CHT's and haven't hooked them up, yet.

Thanks,
Pinecrest

Hi,
Been on a business trip for a couple of days. The (new) spec on the website is correct. The woofer was always 4" and the tweeter was always 1", and 90hz is a more accurate low end rating. There have not been any changes in the product. We sometimes need to make corrections in spec info. I have always recommended crossing over these satellites at 120hz if possible. These are very high quality speakers and worth far more than the close out price,
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

Few questions about connections. This may have been covered before. Right now I connect my Yamaha RXV4600 receiver's subwoofer output (LFE) to the "L" of the Velodyne HSG12's the input with a Monster subwoofer cable. I am wondering if there is any benefit to use a "Y" adapter to connect both the "L" and the "R" in the back of the sub. I heard people say it makes no difference while some others say it's a little better with the "Y" adapter. Your thought?

Thanks,

Bimmerguy

Curt,

Few questions about connections. This may have been covered before. Right now I connect my Yamaha RXV4600 receiver's subwoofer output (LFE) to the "L" of the Velodyne HSG12's the input with a Monster subwoofer cable. I am wondering if there is any benefit to use a "Y" adapter to connect both the "L" and the "R" in the back of the sub. I heard people say it makes no difference while some others say it's a little better with the "Y" adapter. Your thought?

Thanks,

Bimmerguy

Hi,
A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good thing and recommended. You will be giving the sub more input and working the sub's amp less.
Thanks,
Curt

RE: Velodyne CHT Front Row

I have always recommended crossing over these satellites at 120hz if possible. These are very high quality speakers and worth far more than the close out price,
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

I appreciate the info on the specs. The receiver I purchased has crossover at 100 or 150, but not 120. I'm assuming the best choice in this case is 100. Do you agree?

Also, do you have any recommendations for wall-mounting the center channel? There are no mounting studs or keyholes in the center channel of the CHT Front Row.


Thanks a million!

Hi,
A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good thing and recommended. You will be giving the sub more input and working the sub's amp less.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks. BTW, I ordere a SPL-1200R for my basement.

[QUOTE=Pinecrest]Curt,

I appreciate the info on the specs. The receiver I purchased has crossover at 100 or 150, but not 120. I'm assuming the best choice in this case is 100. Do you agree?

Thanks![/QUOTE

Hi,
If you are playing movies fairly loud, I would go with 150hz. Most subwoofer will go up to 150hz. If 100hz seems to sound and integrate better, go with it.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

[QUOTE=Pinecrest]Curt,

I appreciate the info on the specs. The receiver I purchased has crossover at 100 or 150, but not 120. I'm assuming the best choice in this case is 100. Do you agree?

Thanks![/QUOTE

Hi,
If you are playing movies fairly loud, I would go with 150hz. Most subwoofer will go up to 150hz. If 100hz seems to sound and integrate better, go with it.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

OK, I'll gice that a try. Thanks again. I edited my post to ask one more question about the time you sent your reply. See above. Any ideas for mounting the center channel, ideally with a mount that projects it away from the wall at least a few inches and allows vertical axis adjustment. I need to aim the center channel down a few degrees.

I was thinking of using two small mounts on either side of the speaker terminal panel.

Thanks again!

Greetings,

Is the service manual and/or schematics for the old ULD-15 Series II controller available? Mine is not working and I could more easily fix it with at least the schematics.

Thanks

Hi,
A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good thing and recommended. You will be giving the sub more input and working the sub's amp less.
Thanks,
Curt

Interesting comment...
I thought that using both inputs increased the input level so that the sub would turn on easier when it was in the auto turn on mode and that was the reason to use a Y adaptor. Would'nt the sub's amp be working at the same level of output to the woofer to produce the same SPL output from it regardless of the input level ? Is the amplifier working less hard ( producing less heat , distortion etc) with a higher input level to output the same wattage as with a lower level input , assuming that the input is not overdriven ?

Hi,
More input, less amplification needed. It's more important on the smaller subs that will be running near max all the time. I always use a 'Y'.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Greetings,

Is the service manual and/or schematics for the old ULD-15 Series II controller available? Mine is not working and I could more easily fix it with at least the schematics.

Thanks

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851) to see if they can help you.
Curt

Hi,
More input, less amplification needed. It's more important on the smaller subs that will be running near max all the time. I always use a 'Y'.
Curt (480) 595-7141


Hi,
I have SPL-1000, i use high level input. would the 'Y' connection to both high level inputs works better? thanks.
neo

Hi,
Yes a 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good idea. Also make sure the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver is at least half way up. In most cases keep the SPL's volume below half.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt, your posts are always very informative and appreciated. I have two questions.

1. I have an old F-1500 manufactured in April 1994, it still sounds great. Thankfully I recently moved into a new condo and I can hook it up again. I bought this unit many years ago when i lived in a home, then moved to a condo, the old place was not very soundproof and I had to put the unit in the garage for 4 years. The new place is like a bomb shelter and thankfully I can put some bass out. The only problem is the size of the unit.

What are the differences between this unit and today's offerings. Are they that much improved?

2. As long as I don't touch the two adjustments on the back of the unit everything is fine. When I touch or turn the knobs I get a big blurb and then it seems the amplifier shuts down. I can shut down the amp and then change the settings. Any thoughts.

Thanks again for all your posting and help.
Jag Fan "Wolfie"

Hi,
1) Todays offerings are much improved. For instance the DD-15 compared to your F-1500 is smaller, has about twice the output and even less distortion. The class 'D' amp puts out 1250 watts RMS and the driver is IMO, easily the best in the industry. With the onboard computer there's no end to the flexibility offered for set-up. The DD series are 'state of the art' and the industry reference for subwoofers. We've come a long way.
2) Your (two) controls may just need cleaning. I suggest you contact Dave Santos, our service manager (dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819) and discuss it with him. We can still, in most cases, service the F-series amplifiers.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt and the rest of the Velodyne crew -

Just wanted to express my extreme appreciation of the SMS-1! This fantastic little gem of a device has transformed the sound in my new video game room from lumpy thumpy one-note bass to smooth, deep and powerful. I've tried my hand at less expensive solutions (using an spl meter, graph paper and a pro audio EQ), but the process is so tedious that is almost hardly worth the effort. Being able to see the bass response with the SMS's RTA is such an invaluable feature. It not makes only makes setting the EQ filters simple, it lets you see the crucial blend between the sub and the main speakers.

Long story short, my game room is square which caused a nasty 12+ dB peak at around 72 Hz that was just plain dominating the sound and ruining the music. Setting a couple of the filters to -6 is all it took. Though I did use a few other filters to smooth the response a bit more. I also found that setting the phase to +30 degrees really helped blend the sub with the mains. All of this took less than 30 minutes.

Once again, thank you for making such a useful and simple to use product. It has made my new game room hard to leave.

Curt, thank you for your reccomendations earlier. You were right on the money. One more query:

My 6+ year old HGS-15 driver's rubber surround - does it need any care? I use dielectric silicone grease to keep my automotive rubber supple and keep it from cracking. Would this help the sub too?

Good question, Dr. X

I've always wondered what would best protect and keep supple the rubber (or foam) surround. I was thinking that perhaps Rain-X, Son Of A Gun, Armor-All or one of the other dressing/protectants might help, but then again, they "could" possibly degrade the surround over time. Being a Velo expert, perhaps you've got an answer, Curt? We want those surrounds to remain supple for many years, yes? I'm gonna guess that Curt's gonna recommend...nothing! :D

Ran

Hi,
Since we haven't tested the effects of the many 'protectant' items available, we certainly can't recommend them. The current synthetic rubber we're using should have a very long life span. I've had feedback from users who do use Armor-all and similar products with no reported problems to date. If I have better info in the future, I'll post.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt and the rest of the Velodyne crew -

Just wanted to express my extreme appreciation of the SMS-1! This fantastic little gem of a device has transformed the sound in my new video game room from lumpy thumpy one-note bass to smooth, deep and powerful. I've tried my hand at less expensive solutions (using an spl meter, graph paper and a pro audio EQ), but the process is so tedious that is almost hardly worth the effort. Being able to see the bass response with the SMS's RTA is such an invaluable feature. It not makes only makes setting the EQ filters simple, it lets you see the crucial blend between the sub and the main speakers.

Long story short, my game room is square which caused a nasty 12+ dB peak at around 72 Hz that was just plain dominating the sound and ruining the music. Setting a couple of the filters to -6 is all it took. Though I did use a few other filters to smooth the response a bit more. I also found that setting the phase to +30 degrees really helped blend the sub with the mains. All of this took less than 30 minutes.

Once again, thank you for making such a useful and simple to use product. It has made my new game room hard to leave.

Hi,
Thanks so much for the great feedback. As you discovered small and square rooms can be a real challenge. I too have used the SMS to eliminate some nasty peaks in a square room. We really appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks,
Curt

Just wanted to publicly thank Curt for the phone call yesterday. Curt is extremely helpful and we had a great chat. Unfortunately for both of us our discussions about hi fi in the 70's and 80's dated us. Velodyne customers are lucky to have this site and especially lucky to have Curt monitoring it and responding back with our questions.

JagFan (Now a CurtFan)

Hi,
1) Todays offerings are much improved. For instance the DD-15 compared to your F-1500 is smaller, has about twice the output and even less distortion. The class 'D' amp puts out 1250 watts RMS and the driver is IMO, easily the best in the industry. With the onboard computer there's no end to the flexibility offered for set-up. The DD series are 'state of the art' and the industry reference for subwoofers. We've come a long way.
2) Your (two) controls may just need cleaning. I suggest you contact Dave Santos, our service manager (dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819) and discuss it with him. We can still, in most cases, service the F-series amplifiers.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
It was great talking to you, brought back many fond memories. BTW, I encourage phone calls so if you have questions or want an opinion give me a call.
Happy Holidays,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Pacific Stereo, JVC, Jensen, and JBL..YEAH!!!

And for you East Coast fans...I have a brand new set (sealed in box) of original KLH Model Sixes.
Never liked the East Coast sound, although I like acoustic suspension speakers. I'll be curious to see what the speakers fetch on Ebay.

The 70's were indeed the Golden Age of audio. EVERY guy HAD to have SOME kind of stereo system...and a precious few of them even went quadraphonic!

Then came megabuck wires and ruined the whole party. :(

And 'green ink' etc. Had the KLH-6's myself. Then again there's not much I haven't owned.
Fun though,
Curt

By "green ink", you don't mean those CD markers, do you? OY!!!!

Yes indeed and many other claims that had us doing sanity checks.
Curt

Pacific Stereo, what were the guys name in San Luis Obispo that had the catalog operation, and Plasmatronics and then there was a tube in Huntington Beach, pretty exotic stuff. Preamps for $2,500, in those day that was big bucks. Then how bout those kit amps that were killer NAD and there was another one? Oh well, just memories. :)

JagFan

Pacific Stereo, JVC, Jensen, and JBL..YEAH!!!

And for you East Coast fans...I have a brand new set (sealed in box) of original KLH Model Sixes.
Never liked the East Coast sound, although I like acoustic suspension speakers. I'll be curious to see what the speakers fetch on Ebay.

The 70's were indeed the Golden Age of audio. EVERY guy HAD to have SOME kind of stereo system...and a precious few of them even went quadraphonic!

Then came megabuck wires and ruined the whole party. :(

hi gang after waiting about 2 weeks for my new dls5000r to arrive it showed up at my door after unpacking it found it was damaged. so back it goes bummer. now i will be without for the big christmas debut. oh well this could take several weeks after the carrier gets down with it :mad:

Hey Curt-
After your advice the other week I've been successful (i think) at integrating my DD-12. I have a question about connections....I am continuing to listen to two channel using the analog bypass on my pre/pro but am using the pre/pro for watching movies. If I were two run the outputs of my pre/pro directly into the velodyne and than out to my amp (using the high pass filter) and use the LFE connection, could I use the sub for listening to two channel music in bypass mode and than the LFE connection for the .1 in watching movies?
Sorry if that's confusing, I can always give you a call-
Hope you're well,
Jon

Hello -
After 2 1/2 highly enjoyable years, my SPL-1200 II has recently started acting up. It has started making constant noise consisting of low pitch static and thumps. I have checked all of my cables and connections and believe that I have eliminated virtually everything except for the sub itself, as it still make these noises even without any signal present. The only thing I haven't done it to try plugging it into a different power source located in a different part of the house.

Any suggestions, or is it time to call Velodyne's service gurus?

Thanks in advance,
Eric

Hi,
Yes you need to call service.
service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851.
Curt

Merry Christmas to All!
Velodyne Acoustics is closed for Christmas and will reopen on Wednesday, December 27th.
Have a safe and wonderful Holiday.
Curt

Hi all-
I was wondering if I could ask a question about others hookup experiences. My dilemna is this....I listen to two channel music on a pre-pro using the analog pass-through and than watch movies having the pre-pro do the dolby decoding.
I was wondering if anybody had tried hooking up both speaker level AND LFE connections. I know this is officially advised against but I was wondering if anybody had actually tried it....the only difficulty would be during watching movies (when their would be 2 outputs going to the velodyne) but I was thinking if I used the pre-pro's bass management and set all of the speakers to small their may be minimal signal than sent from the speaker level connection.
Anyway, thought I would check before doing so in case people have had damaging experiences.
Happy holidays-
Jon

Hi All,

I just bought a used Velodyne F-1800RII sub to use with my Denon AVR-4800 receiver and I'm having trouble hooking it up. On the back panel of the Denon there is a single subwoofer RCA jack. But the subwoofer has both speaker level inputs and two pairs of RCA inputs: input and outpairs pairs with one white and one red jack per pair. So I connected the Denon's subwoofer jack to the Velodyne's input jack using an Audioquest shielded cable. I first tried the white jack on the sub, then the red and didn't get any sound. The amp on the subwoofer powers on (the green light on the front illuminates) and the amp has that famous Velodyne low hum so at least I know the amp is receiving power, but I don't know any more about the amp's condition.

I played a Star Wars DVD and the LFE light on the Denon's front panel was lit but the subwoofer wasn't playing. I configured the Denon's setup to tell it I have small speakers and that a sub is being used.

Before I jump to the conclusion that someone sold me a lemon, can anyone suggest something connection-wise or setting-wise that I might have overlooked? Is there another way to test the sub?

Any help you can provide is sincerely appreciated!

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b306/goodluvin/velodyne.jpg

Makotool, here is my F-1500 setup. Don't know if its the same as yours. I actually bought this sub in 1994, it has been in storage for 4 years while a resided in a not so quiet condo. I recently moved into a "bomb shelter" quiet condo and its playing again (yeppee). As you can see its turned up to 2.5 and 80HTz. I am waiting for that first knock on the door from a, I hope a friendly neighbor that asks me turn it down a little. As you can see, I use a Y to hook it up. Hope this helps.

Former JagFan, yesterday was sad. I will become a new JagFan right after to the first of the year. LOL

Hi All,

I just bought a used Velodyne F-1800RII sub to use with my Denon AVR-4800 receiver and I'm having trouble hooking it up. On the back panel of the Denon there is a single subwoofer RCA jack. But the subwoofer has both speaker level inputs and two pairs of RCA inputs: input and outpairs pairs with one white and one red jack per pair. So I connected the Denon's subwoofer jack to the Velodyne's input jack using an Audioquest shielded cable. I first tried the white jack on the sub, then the red and didn't get any sound. The amp on the subwoofer powers on (the green light on the front illuminates) and the amp has that famous Velodyne low hum so at least I know the amp is receiving power, but I don't know any more about the amp's condition.

I played a Star Wars DVD and the LFE light on the Denon's front panel was lit but the subwoofer wasn't playing. I configured the Denon's setup to tell it I have small speakers and that a sub is being used.

Before I jump to the conclusion that someone sold me a lemon, can anyone suggest something connection-wise or setting-wise that I might have overlooked? Is there another way to test the sub?

Any help you can provide is sincerely appreciated!

Yes, that's very helpful!! I think I actually have a Y connector lying around somewhere. Thanks a million!

I was wondering if anybody had tried hooking up both speaker level AND LFE connections. I know this is officially advised against but I was wondering if anybody had actually tried it.... (

I've got mine hooked up that way and wish I had done it years ago. I do not advise anyone to do this by the way, but my sub (ct 120) is old enough that I dont care to risk it. I hooked up the center channel speaker level to sub along with the lfe cable. I can now adjust 2 different levels into the sub and it is 100 % better. The center channel add more depth, and adds a lot of mid level bass I was missing before. It has added a lot more detail to music and ht.

Hello,

I have a VA-1210 I bought about 13 years ago. I've had no problems with this woofer until now (due to age). I leave the woofer on 24 hours a day without signal going to it. I hear a bup bup bup bup sometimes when no signal. I have a Y rca connector to a RCa cable. The cables are monster brand.

I thought at first the power cord or cell phones were causing this but I put the power cord away from the rca cables and the cell phones far away. But still happens. Any suggestions?

Also, any idea where I can find the manual? I use the Y-connector because I'm not sure with a mono sub source, how to hook it up.

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800 Ext. 3851 or
service@velodyne.com. They can supply you with the manual. It appears the amplifier needs work.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi guys, I'm considering pairing my recently acquired Sonus Faber Concertino wich go down to 50Hz with a CHT-10R (DLS-3750R) or CHT-12R (DLS-4000R). My room size is 4x4x4(meters), if we don't count furnished it looks more likely to a 4x3x4 room. I'm considering the CHT line because they are at good prices here. My primary use for the system is music (98% music / 2% HT). I want to know if I'm fine with the 10" drive model or should I go with bigger one, as I can't bring both home and test them I need to buy the one that is supposed to integrate better with my speakers.
Thanks in advance.

Hi,
Either will work in your room size. The CHT-12R will go a little deeper and have more reserve. Listen to both in the store, if possible, with your favorite CD's. A lot would depend on the type of music and how loud you play. If I had your speakers, I'd certainly look at the SPL-R series.
Curt

Thanks curt c for the quick response, I was considering the CHT line because I wanted to add the low end extension that I'm missing and they were at a really great price. As I haven't heard the SPL series (they are on another shop) wich are 3 times more expensive as the CHT series on same drive size woofers, is it really worth it for hearing only the 1st and part of the 2nd octave?.
Music I hear is mostly rock, volume is normally less than 1watt ( between 0.1 and 1 ), sometimes 10-70watts, but no more than that.
Thanks

PS:forgot to add, with the SPL-R series should I still consider the 10" and 12" drives or is the 8" unit going to be enough

Hi,
Yes it really is that important for those of us who love audio and the crisp, clean and tight sound of a string bass and bass drum. If you primarily listen to electronic rock, you'll notice the distinct notes of the fender bass, instead of just bass. The low octaves are the 'foundation' of music and that's where Velodyne lives. As always listen for yourself and then decide.
You need to consider the SPL-1000-R and 1200-R. For me the 1200-R is the way to go. It's the finest (non servo) small sub I've ever heard. BTW, the auto-eq of the SPL-R series in your square room, will be a great asset.
Thanks,
Curt

hey i just bought the VX-10 subwoofer, how do i hook it up to my pioneer VSX-1016 reciever ? im completely lost, i thought it would go from the pre-amp sub output on the reciever to the sub, but there isnt a pre-amp input on the sub :|

nevermind i just read the instruction manual :D sounds FANTASTIC

Thanks for the information curt c, i'll see if there is a way to try them.

Hi all. I got a brand new SPL-1200R. I connected its LFE input to the AVR's "sub-woofer out".
There is one annoying bug with this setup: for low volume scenes, the sub-woofer turns its drive off, even with bass input. This is regardless of the auto-power being enabled or disabled, as the Velo keeps itself on all the time. The net result is that I keep hearing the driver turning on/off/on/off depending on the scenes.

I've been reading this thread and noticed suggestions to use an "Y" splitter to double the input. I'll certainly will try it, but will this new setup fix this behavior? Has anyone else got the same problem?

On the AVR side, I increased the sub-woofer's out level from 0db up to +12db (maximum) but the Velo maintains the same behavior: the drive still turns off for low volumes.

A buddy of mine also got the same sub-woofer a few weeks ago and noticed the same problem: he returned the unit!

In fact, my wife bitches we have too much bass. I turn the Velo only to 2 (can't turn it up over 2.5 out of 10), leave it at 80HTz and its still pounding. Hopefully getting the Y will give you the same results. My Velo is 12 years old and sounds awesome. Other than its huge I can't see any reason to replace. Most of my use is movies and I lost most of my hearing in left ear in Vietnam. No more esoteric BS listening to music. I have a condo with tile floors and area rugs, probably not the right environment. To get good music I just look out my LR sliders and get the best music, crashing waves. I think the continual pursuit of the best sound is a little over rated? ;)

JagFan, now to the game.

Hi all. I got a brand new SPL-1200R. I connected its LFE input to the AVR's "sub-woofer out".
There is one annoying bug with this setup: for low volume scenes, the sub-woofer turns its drive off, even with bass input. This is regardless of the auto-power being enabled or disabled, as the Velo keeps itself on all the time. The net result is that I keep hearing the driver turning on/off/on/off depending on the scenes.

I've been reading this thread and noticed suggestions to use an "Y" splitter to double the input. I'll certainly will try it, but will this new setup fix this behavior? Has anyone else got the same problem?

On the AVR side, I increased the sub-woofer's out level from 0db up to +12db (maximum) but the Velo maintains the same behavior: the drive still turns off for low volumes.

A buddy of mine also got the same sub-woofer a few weeks ago and noticed the same problem: he returned the unit!

Badsaten,
Do use a 'Y' into both inputs. I would make sure the +12 output of the receiver is for the sub-out jack you're using. I haven't heard of this on the SPL-R series before. I'd also try a reset (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1) on the sub.
Thanks,
Curt

Anyone have a link for the splitter? Does Monoprice sell something like this?

Thanks, I'll get that "Y" asap and I'll reset it to see what happens.
Other than that, the sub-woofer seems very nice, and I even haven't used its calibration...

oc 335i, one place to get these "Y" adapters can be bluejeancables, for 15USD (check here http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm the "One-foot Subwoofer Y cable, 1F/2M RCA" at the end of the page).

Again on the spl-r on/off issue on low volumes...
As I don't have any y-adapter currently, to get both sub-woofer's line-in connected, I used the AVR pre-out L and pre-out R to Velo line-in L and R, and assured the receiver sent bass to the mains.
Two immediate differences:
* the drive's small "pluck" turning off/on stopped completely
* the sound got continuous, smooth, even at low volumes. I was checking the "Saving private Ryan" at avr's -68, where minimum is -80.

So I guess the "Y" will definitively "cure" this problem!

Oh, good year for all. I'm already on 2007 here.

Hi Curt,

First, Happy New Year!

Now, I have just had a problem with my SPL-1200 Series II. I purchased it in February of '04. I have a projection/media room that is rarely used - mostly by my wife (those darn bulbs are just too expensive to use it all the time!) Sub is set to minimum setting and wife only watches movies at relatively low volume. About a week ago, wife was watching. I was upstairs and heard a MAJOR hummm/boom coming from the room. Seems that the sub died on us... :-(

So, I checked my owners manual and the web and I understand that powered subs are NOT covered past two years and the nearest service center to me is in Connecticut (about 2 hrs away - I am in Northern NJ). I'm bummed :-(

This unit has NEVER been abused in any way and it is set to "auto", so it is only on rarely. I have about 1,500 hours on my projector bulb, but for a long while, wife hated the base, so the sub was off. Doesn't seem like a lot of use to me, but maybe it's not?

Anyway, I want to get it fixed, but a) I am just getting into my busy season and it seems like this will be a big pain to pack up and ship - will take at least two weeks + 'till I can get to it and b) I really don't want to get hosed on a repair for a fairly new sub. Please let me know what my options are.

Thanks!
Jeff

FYI, found a much cheaper Y cable.
http://www.accessories4less.com/cgi-bin/item/ARAP040

More here:
http://www.accessories4less.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?&category=search&template=search&templatehead=&templatebody=&templatefoot=&match=pattern&limitcategory=&type=store&searchtype=and&results=&query=y%20adapter&x=0&y=0&start=0

$15 for the Y cable + 5 shipping was a little much for what it is.

Hi,
Last time I checked they were about $4 at Radio Shack. (one female, two male, rca 'Y' connector)
Curt

Hello ,I am looking to get a SMS-1 but rack space is limited
is it actually 2" or is that with feet ?
Thanks ~

Hi,
That's with feet. About 1 7/8" without.
Curt

Hi All

I recently bought the CHT Front Row System, the VX-10 and a Panasonic SA-XR57S. Thus far sounds great :) I have the speakers set to Small and the crossover set at 100. I have the VX-10 connected via Y splitter and the crossover set at 140. Is this considered the best crossover setting for this system? Bump the crossover on the VX-10 to 200 perhaps? Thanks in advance.

Hi,
If your receiver offers 120hz as a crossover setting, change to that. If not, 100hz is fine. Set the Subs crossover to 200hz. All speakers should be set to 'small'.
Thanks,
Curt

Hey,

One quick questions. Is the DLS4000R shielded for video? The DPS-12 is listed as video shielded on the website but I cannot find the answer for the DLS series.

Thanks

OK, so I just got the HD-DVD drive for my 360 and watched King Kong in my theater, which is about 1.5 - 2 years old. I was listening at about -18 dB on the dial of my Yamaha RX-V2500 when I started to notice that it sounded as if the Velodyne DLS-5000R was blown. I watched The Warriors last night on a standard def DVD and it sounded fine, or at least didn't make enough noise to bother me. Tonight though, I was playing Madden and every time I hit a guy it sounded like the sub was farting, that real sloppy blown sub sound.

What am I supposed to do now? I never really expected to have any problems with this sub so soon, and I don't remember if I registered for the warranty. Am I screwed and have to buy a new sub (I'm not rolling in the dough), or is there a way for me to save it?

Thanks.

Hi,
First I would try a reset (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual). If the sub does need service contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. Normally only the amp needs returning. Your receipt is your warranty.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
First I would try a reset (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual). If the sub does need service contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. Normally only the amp needs returning. Your receipt is your warranty.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. *hunts for manual*

OK, I tried the reset, and I know it worked because it blinked three times, but the sub is doing the exact same thing.

I guess now's the time to find my receipt and get my phone :(

Hey everyone,

I’m new to the forums and I just put together a new home theatre system. I have a couple of questions about my new Velodyne DLS-3750R. For the most part, the sub sounds really good, but I have encountered a couple of issues with it. The first was that when bass was quite loud coming out of it that there was some rattling in the back of the unit. Slight tightening of the screws on the back of the unit seems to have fixed this, no big deal, but is it normal?

Secondly there have been times when the sub has sounded very taxed, which surprised me because everything I have read about it says that it is basically impossible to faze this thing. So, some background on my system: the DLS sub, energy speakers and an Onkyo TX-SR604 receiver. I have the LFE low pass filter set to 120 Hz on the Onkyo, the dial on the back of the sub set to direct and the sub volume turned up one remote push from the default setting. When I watch movies I have the sub in movie mode. The two instances when I have really noticed the sub sounding bad was in the Spiderman 3 trailer on the Da Vinci Code DVD, and the LOTR: Fellowship of the Ring DVD during the parts where the Orcs are ripping the trees down. The sub sounds like its breaking, rattling and not clean at all. Do you guys think there is something wrong with the sub, do I have something set up wrong, or am I just pushing the thing too hard? Sorry for the long post and any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

judge-dredd

Have you used a SPL meter to adjust the sub level?

Reason for asking is that it basically sounds like you have it turned up too high.

Hi Judge,
You didn't mention the most important thing, room and open area size. At our website www.velodyne.com, under 'which product' we provide subwoofer recommendations for cubic displacement. You should also try a 'Y' into both inputs and raise the receiver's output for the subwoofer jack and back off on the sub's volume to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Wow, thanks for the quick responses. JimP, I haven’t used an SPL meter but my receiver does have an auto setup feature, Auddessy 2 I think it is which I did use. Curt c, the room size is about 1700 to 2100 cubic feet. I don’t have the sub currently connected with a y input. Is there one recommended, I am currently using a 6 foot monster bass 300 cable (which I wouldn’t have bought at all hadn’t I got it basically for free). Also, I have only had this sub a couple of weeks, I’m really hoping I haven’t damaged it by having it turned up too loud, should it be ok?

Again, thanks for the help.

judge,

Although this probably won't fix your problem, I'd suggest getting a SPL meter from Radio Shack and verify that your levels are correct.

As for the distortion you are experiencing, it may be that the Auddessy system set the sub wrong. That's why it would be a good idea to get the SPL meter and one of the audio test DVDs where you can do a frequency sweep and see what's actually happening across the affected frequencies.

Hi,
If the room has no permanent openings, the DLS-3750R should be fine. Any 'Y' splitter will suffice. What is the current level for the subwoofer jack setting in your receiver? Most of the auto-level set ups put the sub channel way to low.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I'll see about getting my hands on an SPL meter, and I do have the Digital Video Essentials DVD, so I should be able to do some frequency sweeps. When I run my Onkyo's auto set up, if I have the sub at default levels, ie after doing the 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 reset, it set's my speakers as follows, left (+2) center (+1) right (+1) surround left and right (0) and sub (-2).

Thanks.

Hi,
Take the sub up to about +4, or more and try all of the above discussed recommendations.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Well, I tried installing the y input and turning the sub down and the lfe channel on the receiver up and I think it does sound better overall, the bass does sound cleaner. I still get an awful rattle when I run that Spiderman 3 trailer on the Da Vinci Code dvd. Does anyone have this dvd to test their sub? I already slightly tightened all of the screws on the back of the sub and while that appeared to help with the rattle when playing music, it still appears to be there on movie scenes. Do you think I’ll have to get the sub exchanged?

Thanks.

p.s. I just used digital video essentials to do a 15hz to 150hz sweep test on the sub, and it starts buzzing at about 80hz and goes right through until you can't really hear the sub anymore, about 125hz.

p.p.s I feel like an idiot, I just pulled the sub out of it's location, which is tucked in behind a tower (not ideal but somewhat neccessary says the wife) and put it in the middle of my theatre area so I could observe it while it was doing it's thing. No rattling at all. It turns out that my return air vent, which is behind the sub likes to rattle at certain frequencies. Well, at least it's not the sub, gentlemen thanks for all the input. This forum is a great source of information.

Cheers.

Hey, I like happy endings.
Happy New Year!
Curt

judge

Glad you found it and can enjoy your HT system.

Hey all.

I picked up a VRP-1000 open box at Circuit City two weeks ago. The grille was broken, but other than that it appeared fine. However, I have noticed something I find odd. It is very easy to make the woofer "flap". I have the reciever's level at 0(half way up), and the sub's gain at 9 o'clock, and it STILL happens on big hits, such as when the blockade runner explodes in A New Hope.

I would expect this if I had it cranked, but I don't. Is this supposed to be happening with this little volume? Or is it defective? What?

Hi,
Since it was an 'open box' I assume it is defective. I would return it for repair or exchange.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Wow. I must admit that after reading this site the past 2 days and listening to a friends velodyne sub, I've changed my mind on buying the DefTech Supercube.

I've attached a doc that shows my future layout. I know it isn't perfect since there isn't a lot of wall surface on my left side, but that is what I'm stuck with.

Questions:

Based on my room layout, which Velodyne sub would be best for me? I'm thinking of the DLS-5000.

Where should I place the sub based on the current layout?

Thanks for the help!
Jason

Can you convert that to a jpeg and repost?

re: DD subwoofer

is it ok to have BOTH an RCA LFE connected to the sub AND speaker level inputs? (curious if I can use the sub with "pure direct" setting on the receiver)

Hi,
Velodyne subwoofers are designed to have one input (not both) connected.
Thanks,
Curt

thanks curt

I have called Velodyne twice trying to get the replacement speaker specs for a CT-150 or CHT-150. Is the woofer that came with it 4 or 8 ohm? What are the continuous and peak power ratings of the speaker? I have been told twice by parts / customer service that they do not know. All that is on the back of the speaker is CT-150. I find it hard to believe that the company that made the sub can not tell me or look up the complete specs on the speaker they put in it. I do not want to hurt the amp by installing the wrong woofer. All the manual says is 15", 70 oz, 2.5" copper voice coil.

Hi,
Contact Dave Santos, our service manager at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. Our drivers are our own design and some of the the information is proprietary. That driver was probably a 4 or 6 ohm unit in which case a 4 ohm replacement would be acceptable. I believe we have a replacement driver available which will provide maximum performance for your subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

The problem is that this is the 2nd one to blow. I have to keep it turned up to 5 or 6 on the volume, Customer service says that it should never be above 3 "never saw that in the manual" and that is why I am blowing them. I need to put in a speaker that can handle more to keep up with my Klipsch Speakers. What do you think would be a good replacement?

Hi,
Matching subs to Klipsch speakers is often a challenge. If the total area is large or you play loud, or both, then you may need several subwoofers. I would not replace the driver with another brand since performance is likely to be effected. I would recommend adding another CT-150, CHT-15 or the current DLS-5000R. It is very rare for a Velodyne woofer to blow up so that indicates it is (probably) being pushed beyond it's designed limits. If you are not already, I suggest you use a "Y" splitter into both sub input jacks and raise the volume in your receiver for the subwoofer jack and back off some on the sub's volume.
Feel free to give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello *,

I hope someone can help me to explain the different power modes of the DD-Series Subs with software version 2.2.0 (my model is a DD-18).

In my case, I have set-up the sub to be activated via the 12V trigger feature (confirmed by some corresponding text at the bottom of the on screen menu) and use my processor (Krell Processor) to activate the sub by sending a 12 V DC Signal to the RS-232 Port (Connection port [4], according to User Manual, page 6). The power switch at the back is left in the “On” position and I don’t use the remote “PWR” button at all. In this set-up, the sub will be activated when I switch the Krell-Processor on, indicated by the Velodyne (Logo) at the front, that is being light up in blue. The On-Screen Menu indicates, that the sub is “On”, since there is no more text indicating, that the sub is in any form of stand-by.
However, if I then feed some signal from the Processor (either Music of Movie) to the sub, it will not start playing (i.e. giving off any sound) until a certain threshold level of the input signal has been exceeded. Since most of my listening material is music, sometimes with little bass content, I need to turn up the volume on the processor quite a bit before the sub will actually start playing. I am using both LFE Input (RCA) (Connection port [11]) from the Processor to the sub.

Is there a set-up option that allows me to use the 12V trigger feature not only to activate the sub, but also to force it to start playing, immediately, regardless of the level of the input signal? If not, could someone please consider this as an option for the next software release, or explain to me why this is not a good idea.

Hope I made myself clear and looking forward for some answers.

Many thanks’ in advance,
Chris_W

Hi,
Try raising the volume in the Krell for the subwoofer jack and back off on the DD's volume control to compensate.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,

thanks' for the quick reply (again). Thanks' for the recommendation, however, I am one of those sub owners which need two inputs into the sub, one for the LFE channel when watching movies and another when listening to music. I bought an AV-Selector to which I connect both, the LFE-output from the Krell (via a Y-Adapter) and the regular stereo output from the Krell. Switching the AV selector (when the sub is off, i.e. in standby mode) allows me to choose which input to use. If I raise the LFE volume, this solves the problem when watching movies, where there is sufficient signal strength with most of the DVDs I own anyway. Unfortunately, this wont work, when I use the stereo outputs from the Krell for listening to Stereo music (plus Sub), since all I can do in this case is to raise the overall volume, which is not what the neighbours want :-) to hear every time I listen to music (which I do a lot more than movies).

Any further suggestions? And does this mean, that the operation as I explained in the previous post is exactly as intended by the current (2.2.0) Software, i.e. the 12V trigger activates the sub but does not force the sub to play immediately, i.e. the sub is still waiting for sufficient input signal to start to play?

Many thanks in advance and looking forward for further comments,

Chris_W

Hi,
Yes the software is working correctly. There is an input threshold required. Perhaps this can be addressed in the future.
Curt (480) 595-71141

A buddy of mine is looking to buy a new sub. The (refreshingly honest) salesman actually said that the SPL 8" would be more than sufficient for his needs - he has a fairly large basement rec room I'm guessing its 2,500 cubic feet and he would be using it mainly for HT. I think to move that much air he would need at least the 10" but that would be stretching his budget. What do you think?

Hi,
I agree, the SPL-1000R at a minimum. The SPL-1200R would be much better. If budget is the final decider, I would also look at the DLS series. It would be wise to calculate total cubic feet and see what the website recommends or have him call me.
Thanks for the help.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Update about the CHT Front Row problem I had.

I bought a white pair from Velodyne closeout. The tweeters sounded weak and later I found that there were a centering problem with both of the tweeters. Thanks to Velodyne's excellent customer support I got the pair replaced. The new ones arrived last Friday and sound like they should!

I'm guessing that there may be a batch of CHT Front Rows that could suffer from this problem (I'm not the only one to spot this issue). However, Velodyne knows about it now and can avoid shipping defective speakers.

I want to buy a HGS-12 from audiogon, it's 120v/60hz version, My problem is I have to use it with 220v/50hz. Can it be switched or rewired to 220v/50hz version?

Thanks!

Hi,
Yes, it can be rewired. Check with Velodyne service or the Velodyne distributor in the country you're in.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Yes, it can be rewired. Check with Velodyne service or the Velodyne distributor in the country you're in.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thank you so much!

Do you mind to let me know how to do it, so that I could do it myself.

Hi,
Contact our service manager, Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Curt

Hi,
Contact our service manager, Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Curt

Emailed! Thanks again!

I just wanted to post a quick note to praise Velodyne for fantastic customer service. Best in the industry! Thanks, Curt, and thanks to the crew at Velodyne.

Thank You!!!
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

I have a SMS-1 and a HGS-15.

Is there anyway to bypass the subsonic filter on the HGS-15 (lowest setting is 15hz) given that the SMS-1 will go to 5hz. I understand that its probably there to provide some level of protection to the driver, but is there a preferred setting between the sub and the SMS-1 to get the lowest extention and not conflict with each other?

Hi,
No, there is no way to bypass the subsonic filter on the HGS-15 and yes it is there for protection. You should set the SMS to 15hz or lower and there will be no performance conflict. The original SMS software is also limited to 15hz on the subsonic which in most cases is a good thing.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for responding,

When I upgraded the original SMS software and was able to switch from 15hz subsonic to 5 hz, I was able to get a little more extention. This leave me to think that the combined effect of two 15hz subsonic filters, do affect each other. Maybe 5 hz on the SMS-1 is small enough to avoid any interaction, but I thought I'd ask.

How simple is it to upgrade the software?

Hi,
It's very simple. You need a computer with a serial port and a pin-for-pin RS-232 cable. This cable is also referred to as a 'mouse extender cable' or 'straight through' cable. A 'modem cable' will not work. The software download is at the website (www.velodyne.com) with instructions.
Thanks,
Curt

Gauss2000,

If you get the info could you forward it to me too. I was about to ask the exact same question with the exception that I do not (yet) own a Velodyne sub. I'm considering one though and a big deciding factor is the ability to switch from 110VAC to 230VAC in the future.

I may have to ask Velodyne which models can be rewired or even used as is because I have not decided on the model yet. Curt?

Hi,
All of the Class D amps can be rewired. This includes the HGS, SPL and DD series. All others with class AB amps would require a transformer replacement. None can be used without the modification.
Curt

Hi everyone!
I just received my DD15 and my new speakers:klipsch RF-83(front), RC-64(center) and two paris of RS62(surround and surround back). How do you think i should set the crossover filters on my lexicon RV-8 receiver?should i stick with the 80hz THX setting or should i get custom crossover for the front, center and rear speakers?what do you think would yield the best result?
Thanks in advance;-)
Oh and by the way, i keep reading-at least on the french forums i go to-that the v2.0 is superior in terms of sound quality to the latest version, 2.2 i think
.Is there any truth in that?(Curt?)

Hi,
I'm not familiar with your speakers so I would suggest for now, use 80hz on all. Maybe someone else will have better information.
Curt (480) 595-7141

thanks Curt!so that will do the trick : 80hz THX for all channels and i ll also defeat the sub filters as the bass management on the lex is quite spectacular.
Any comment on the fact that V2.0 "might" sound better than V2.2?personnaly, i don t believe it but after seeing so many people on french forums revert their v2.2 to v2.0 i m left wondering...

Hi,
2.2 provides a little more deep end response which some prefer, others don't. There's not much difference between the two.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I am looking at upgrading my old Infinity BU1 sub with something in the modern age. my room is likely close to 4200 cubic feet and opens into two other rooms that are about 16x14 and 14x20 I would say I listen to music about 35% of the time and HT/Tv the rest. I've an Adcom GFS 700 reciever and Phase Tech Teatro 11 mains and Phase Tech 6.5 center and Boston Acoustic surrounds. What Velodyne should I consider within my budget of <1200 retail.

Hi,
At a minimum you would need two DLS-5000R's. You could start with one and add the second when budget permits. You have over 8K cubic feet to deal with.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
All of the Class D amps can be rewired. This includes the HGS, SPL and DD series. All others with class AB amps would require a transformer replacement. None can be used without the modification.
Curt

Thanks Curt!

Bummer - these sub series all seem to be from the more expensive side (> $1000 unless I'm wrong). I still have to look into it though. On one hand a weak sub would add nothing to my listening experience since my Gradient 1.2 main speakers with their down firing 8" woofers can easily shake the floor of my house. On the other hand I'd like to limit my spending to some $600-800...

Well, maybe even transformer replacement could be possible. I'm an electronics engineer / designer so that would be a no-brainer for me.

Just wanted to say you guys designed and built a great sub.
DD-15

I initially bought two HGS-15s and loved them, but needed a little more oomph and just bought two HGS-18s. One of them makes a constant "sea"-like sound when it is on that is loud enough to be really annoying. The other makes a similar noise that is so subtle that I cannot appreciate it unless I put my ear close to the driver, so it is not an issue. Another way to dscribe the sound is like a case fan in a computer. The sound is not gain-dependent, does not change with the input volume, is there even when the input is disconnected, and is NOT a ground loop (cheater plug makes no difference at all). Any help would be appreciated.

Did some reading of archived threads and see that it is likely due to a faulty analog servo circuit in the one sub. Could this be a simple fix (like to look for something that shook lose during shipping)? Obviouslty these subs are out of warranty. Can you give me an idea of how the problem is fixed? Thanks in advance.