Dr.X

How large is your room?

Hi,
The 'rushing' noise you hear is from the analog servo feedback loop. It should be obvious when your ear is near the speaker. One of your units is out of spec. Please contact our service manager, Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
I emailed you with additional contact info.
Thanks,
Curt

i am in need of the experts here as i am totally confused with this crossover settings.
the setup is as follows
Klipsch KSF8.5 Fronts
Klipsch KSF C5 Center
Klipsch KSF S5 Rear Surround
Velodyne VA-8100x
Denon AVR4306
Rives Audio test cd
Radio Shack Digital SPL Meter
AVR4306 crossover set to 80hz
velodyne sub set to phase =0, xover =out, low pass crossover goes from 40-120
using a Y cable to both inputs.
using the test tones i get sound out of my sub no matter what the crossover setting is set to. sound goes upto @ 160hz
is this correct or am i doing something wrong somewhere in my setup? :confused:
P.S. still waiting on a new DLS5000r to show up :D

I am not familiar with that model but if you have two inputs, one is likely a full range input and one is low pass. By using a y adapt on a system with this kind of input options, you effectively bypass the filter.

Hi,
Both input jacks go through the low-pass filter which you have defeated (X'over out). I don't know the slope used in the Denon, so you would hear some above 80hz but it should be tapering off. If you want to help control it, put the Velodyne's low-pass in the circuit (X'over in) and adjust it down. That should make a difference.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I have the Velodyne HSG 12. Its about 5 years old.
At one year I had it in for service and they replaced the amp. Well I think the amp is going again.
My question is it worth getting fix? Are the parts still available?
I would appreciate any helpful advice.
Thanks in advance

Hi,
Parts and service are available for the HGS series and they are well worth repairing. Contact Velodyne service manager Dave santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

FYI,
I will be away from phone and computer for a day or two.
Take Care,
Curt - Velodyne Acoustics

Velodyne F-1800RII making a intermittent pop/crackling sound. Anyone with an idea???? It does it consistently every 1 to 2 minutes.
Thanks,

Hi,
Both input jacks go through the low-pass filter which you have defeated (X'over out). I don't know the slope used in the Denon, so you would hear some above 80hz but it should be tapering off. If you want to help control it, put the Velodyne's low-pass in the circuit (X'over in) and adjust it down. That should make a difference.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thank Curt I will do that. for some reason I just figured that if the crossover was set @ 80 that by90/100 you would lose all the sound coming from the sub and i could hear sound up to 160 but quietly above 160 nothing.

Time to go shopping!

Former two-channel guy with a ribbon based HT setup. I'm at about 80% HT, 20% 2-channel these days.

Fronts: Apogee Duetta Signatures
Surrounds: Apogee Centaur Columns
Center: Apogee LCR
Room size: 24' x 14' x 8'
(http://www.lastrange.com/albums/basement/slides/IMG_2509.html)

The Apogees are tight and fast and I need the same in a sub(s). A friend of mine has the same fronts with 2 HGS-10's and is very happy with the results. I'm flexible on budget, I can go with 1 or 2 subs, HGX, DD, 10's, 12's, I'm just looking for tight, fast integration with the Apogees.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

I am getting allot of hum from my DPS 10. I noticed it last night as we were watching MIllion Dollar Baby on my A1. I notice I had to set vol. @ 0. I usually watch HDDVDs at -25 to -20. I have Onkyo 804. I noticed loud hum from sub. What could cause this?
I returned one of these already. The fist one would shake the room with vol. off.
Please help. My sub cable is Monster 300 sub cable. :(

Dr. X:

I am sure Curt's response is correct. That said, from time to time my DD-15 will emit a similar sound depending on whether my sub-cable is sitting too closely to a power cord or some other source of interference. If I re-position the sub cable and restart the DD-15, the noise goes away. Might be worth a try for you.

Hi Tom,
I would recommend a DD-15 or a pair of DD-12's. All DD's are tight and fast and will integrate perfectly with your ribbons. Years ago at a high fi show in San Francisco we used a pair of HGS-18's in conjunction with Apogee's. The sound was fantastic. The HGS's have been replaced by the DD's. If you wish to discuss, call me Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the quick reply!

Hello ,I just installed my new SMS-1 to my Denon 3805
I am using the denons crosover
I have all my speakers set to small and the crossover set to 80.
My denon only have the RCA LFE out but my sub has XLR in
Should I use the RCA or get an XLR to conect from the SMS-1 to the sub ?
Is the quick set up OK or will I neeed to do more ?
What about the Highpas and lowpas in the SMS ?
I am sur I will have more questions in the next day or so once I dig deeper into the SMS-1
Thanks ~

Hi,
I suggest you call me next week.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I will do -This is what the auto EQ did with my set up -Looks like I have a 70-80Db dip

Hi,
That is self-eq, not auto eq (see manual). Anyway, that's a real good start.
Curt

Hi All,
Quick review on the DD/SMS EQ set-ups. There are three EQ modes 1) Self-Eq; only the mic needs to be plugged in and then push 3-2-1 on the remote. 2) Auto-EQ; the furnished three prong 'rca' cable needs to be connected. One lead goes from the video output of the DD/SMS to your TV, the other two go from the EQ output jacks of the DD/SMS to a vacant input of your receiver or pre/pro. 3) Manual-EQ; same wiring hook-up as 'auto-eq'. By selecting the input jack of your receiver that you ran the rca's to, you should hear the signal sweep through both your speakers and subwoofer. (You must also have the sub-out of the receiver hooked to the inputs of the DD or SMS. If using the SMS, you then send it's output to your sub's input).
Now you can go into the Eq menu on the TV and select auto or manual EQ.
It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the manual as you are offered many set-up options. This is one manual not to be ignored.
It's much easier to offer help of this nature over the phone, so I welcome your calls when help is needed. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt
I will give a call mext week but one question is this unit is making my sub go on and off Not power but at times nothing is comming out of the sub
I checked all conections and moved to another LFE output and same results

Hi,
You might want to check all your volume controls (receiver sub-jack, SMS, and subwoofer). Does your sub have auto/on function? If so, defeat it and see if that is the issue. Unity gain (same in, same out) for the SMS is '15'. you might also try a SMS reset, push 8-9-0 on the remote.
Curt

I am getting allot of hum from my DPS 10. I noticed it last night as we were watching MIllion Dollar Baby on my A1. I notice I had to set vol. @ 0. I usually watch HDDVDs at -25 to -20. I have Onkyo 804. I noticed loud hum from sub. What could cause this?
I returned one of these already. The fist one would shake the room with vol. off.
Please help. My sub cable is Monster 300 sub cable. :(

I have the same cable but have not yet set up the subwoofer( mine is a DPS 10 also), I had 2 subwoofers before and they both started humming and couldnt produce bass right after some time with this cable, im not shure if it was the cable or receiver or just fauly subs, but I really dont want to screw up my new DPS 10 with this cable if it is really causing the problem.

Can anyone anwser his question? I too worry about this.

Hi,
If you suspect a faulty cable, try another one. Inexpensive cables are readily available and they work fine. If the hum goes away when the input is disconnected, the hum may be system related. With a DPS or DLS, I would first try a reset (push presets 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual). Often the volume is set much too high and causes issues. The volume should only be taken up a few pushes from factory setting.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
If you suspect a faulty cable, try another one. Inexpensive cables are readily available and they work fine. If the hum goes away when the input is disconnected, the hum may be system related. With a DPS or DLS, I would first try a reset (push presets 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual). Often the volume is set much too high and causes issues. The volume should only be taken up a few pushes from factory setting.
Curt (480) 595-7141
I did the reset it made hum lower than it was. Now that the hum is lower I hear hum and static from surrounds. When vol is at +80. I went through all connections disconnected all components even tried different outlet still there. Is it normal for speakers to his and hum when I select an input that is off and sending no signal to AVR, with vol @+80? :confused:
Don't know if I mentioned sub stops humm completely when I disconnect sub cable.

Hi,
What +80 volume are you referring to? If it's the Velodyne's volume control, that's about 40 too high. If you're talking about system reference setting, that's about right. The volume in your receiver for the subwoofer jack should be at least half way up, or more, and the Velodyne's volume should be in the 30-40 range. I suggest you call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
If your +80 is referring to the master volume of your receiver, unfortunately that doesn't tell me anything. Have you taken any SPL measurements? And yes it would be possible to hear noise through your speakers with a vacant source if the volume is high. And I would guess +80 is very high whatever component it's related to.
Curt

Maybe this has been covered before, but there seems to be a misprint in the SMS-1 manual (http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/products/manuals/SMS-1%20manual_English.pdf) I just downloaded. On page 26 it states the level should be "approximately 86 dB" whereas 76 dB would be logical to correspond with the picture and to give the filters room to adjust before hitting the top of the graph. Is this correction correct? If so, it would account for the graph in an online magazine review, where the line is squashed up at the top of the graph, something I know for sure is not recommended practice with the DD-15 I have.

Hi Steve,
Yes you are right, it is a misprint and has been brought up in the past. It's a good reminder. We recommend working in the upper half of the screen allowing room at the top for peaks.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

We are just finishing up the last few punchlist items for our new Home Theater, and I finally got the time to set the speakers and DD-15 back up for final placement. I was finally able to take my first shot at serious calibration using the onboard EQ.

Speakers are Paradigm Studio 100's for LR, 20's for the back surrounds, CC570 for the center, and APD's for the side surrounds. PreAmp is an Anthem D1 paired with a Sherbourn 7 channel AMP.

The room has been treated on all walls with Linacoustic (up to ear level on each of the side and back walls, and to the ceiling on the screen wall)

The 7 speakers were previously calibrated to 75db using the D1's onboard test tones and a RS SPL meter. Using the previous settings, all of the speakers levels were still locked in at 75 while the DD15 read between 76-78db. The last volume setting on the DD15 was "10". Looked like I was ready to try and calibrate.

Here are some notes that I took along with some pictures:
First, verified the Crossover in the D1 was set to 80 (THX)
Next, reset the DD15 to factory defaults with 8,9,0.
Lowered the volume of the DD15 from 30 to 15.
Switched to EQ setting 2 (Movies).
Muted the DD15
I had to lower the volume of the D1 significantly to -20db to get a reading close to 76db.
Here is the response I got for the LR speakers only:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/172/369239390_7a94a54fe4_d.jpg

Next, I unmuted the sub and raised it's volume to 18 to get it as close to 76db to match the LR speakers:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/369223717_e208f17c2f_d.jpg

I next decided that I would defeat the low pass XOver since I had it crossed at 80 in the D1. Doing so resulted in the following:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/119/369223718_2b106d9eed_d.jpg

I then went back and tried some different settings and settled at 100. Here is how that looked:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/136/369223720_a1da08e7c9_d.jpg

I'm curious as to why I got such bad results defeating the DD15's crossover. I assumed this would be the way to go since I set it up for 80 in the D1. Any thoughts??

Next, I experimented with the Subsonic Slope, and kept the setting at 24.
I experimented with Polarity and kept it at 0.
I experimented with Phase, and ketp it a +.

Last, I ran the Auto EQ and achieved this response:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/124/369223724_80ba6d7145_d.jpg

How does this look? Is this relatively flat?? Any suggestions on further tweaking or things I did above that I should change? Any input appreciated.

Hello All..

First post in this thread...

Is there any planned revision to the SMS-1 software to reduce the low frequency rolloff?

Even with the new 5hz high pass code tests are showing it to be down 25db at 10hz.

Thanks,

-Eli

Hi,
Your graph is excellent, being it appears, close to +/- 3db from 20hz up. I'm very impressed with the 'auto-eq' results you obtained. To me, that's very good and I doubt if any flatter will sound much different. You could of course switch to 'manual', and see if you want to work on the 55-90hz area. You can also use the parametric mode when tweaking by shifting the eq bars around. Currenly, 50, 63, 80 and 100 aren't even being used so you have lot's of flexibility, just depends on how far you want to go.
Curt (480) 595-7141

My first time here - great forum.

I just purchased a DD-15 which was intended for HT use, but it integrates so well, that I have decided to keep it for 2ch. My amp is a Blue Circle 206 which has very low input sensitivity, which means that the volume setting on the DD-15 is set as low as "5". I understand that volume controls are not usually linear, so am I at any disadvantage by having to set the volume so low on the DD-15? Am I better off by hooking the sub through the speaker connectors?

Thanks,
Andy.

Hi,
I would recommend you continue your line level hook-up and '5' on the volume is fine. You're not missing a thing. Good to hear you discovered how well the DD integrates for two channel use. I couldn't do without it for stereo or H/T.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Last time I checked they were about $4 at Radio Shack. (one female, two male, rca 'Y' connector)
Curt


Curt, So I am assuming you feel this is a good enough connector with no signal loss?

BTW, I have had my DD-18 for about 6 weeks now. Finally feel like I have it dialed in and I couldn't be pleased more. For HT, it's really earth shattering. Music I was more concerned about with a sub this large, but it really blends in nicely. I'm really pleased. This thing does rock.

Hi,
When it comes to wire, cables etc., you need to make the decision. I've never seen any 'signal loss' problem with any 'Y' splitter I've used and that includes inexpensive as well as expensive ones. This will always be a matter of opinion so I say get what you like. I too, use the DD-18 with music and it's the best I've ever heard.
Thanks,
Curt

I just bought a Velodyne DD18. I also have an HGS 15. Right now the HGS 15 is daisy chained to the DD18. The HGS 15 doesn’t play as loud or with nearly as much authority as the DD18 but it adds to the bass energy in the room and helps create a fuller sound.

My problem is this; my receiver has a bass peak feature. I set the bass peak to where I think the HGS 15 starts to distort. To be honest, I have a hard time telling what distortion is. The sub plays pretty loud and clean. I just turn the bass peak level up until the sub starts to make a weird crunching sound (barely audible over the rumble tone) every 10 seconds instead of the constant rumble from bass peak’s test tone. I have HGS’s volume set at about 3.5 dots. The volume for the DD18 is set to 30.

What I am wondering is since I have the DD18 and HGS 15 linked together, am I putting a governor on the DD18 since it can play a lot louder than the HGS 15? I don’t want to set the bass peak to the level of the DD18 because that will overdrive the HGS 15. A few of my friends are trying to get me to sell them the HGS 15 because of this and I really don’t want to do that.

I tried to hook the HGS 15 to my two front channels and cross them over at 80hz while the DD18 was connected to the LFE channel. Within the receiver’s setup I the set the front channels up as large since they now had the HGS 15 connected to them. This worked out ok for movies and video games. Some passages sounded full and robust while others sounded weak and thin compared to when everything was ran through the LFE channel. I could learn tolerate this, but want drives me nuts is anytime I’m listening to a two channel source, I get absolutely nothing from the DD18. Only the two front channels and HGS 15 are active.

I really don’t know what to do in this situation. I want to incorporate both subs into my system without shortchanging the DD18. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks!

No Output Period! Worked Fine For Almost A Year, Absolutely Nothing Was Changed. All Of The Sudden Noticed Light Was Not On And No Bass Was Coming Out. I Dont Even Push Anything Hard. I Have Seen Other Posts That Talked About Amplifier Failing. Is This A Common Thing With Dd Line. It Was Manufactured In August 2005. If Any Bugs Were Known. And Is There Anything I Can Troubleshoot? Please Help Me! :(

Hi,
If the sub will take remote commands, do a reset. Turn the unit off, then back on after 30 seconds or so and press 8-9-0 on the remote. also make sure everything is set correctly in your receiver or pre/pro. You can try a CD (audio output) directly into the sub's inputs. If nothing works then call our service manager Dave Santos at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I plugged the sub in and turned it on. I waited 30 seconds and pushed 8-9-0. I hooked up a cd player to the subs lfe input. Still no light comes on and no sound. Could it be the power cord? I noticed it looks smaller that some sub power cords. Is that common in these amps? Also, is anyone available on Saturday?

Hi,
Please contact service (see above) on Monday. We have not had any issue with the power cords.
Curt

Hey Curt, my SPL-1000R has developed the "stutters". I've had it a few months now, and it did once when I first connected it (and had to tighten the RCA plug on the cable) and its been fine for the most part.

It has happened a couple of times since, but went away after I either cycled the power and/or reset the cable plugs. Today when I turned it back on it is stuttering again and it won't go away.

I changed cables to no avail.

The receiver is an older Yamaha R-V905. Maybe its the receiver but I'll have to wait til the weekend to haul it over to friends house and hook it up to his Denon for a test to see if its my receiver.

Any ideas?

Hi,
A few things to try;
1) Use a 'Y' into both inputs.
2) Raise the subwoofer volume in the receiver to about two thirds of the way up.
3) Do a reset on the sub (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1)
4) Keep the sub's volume below '40'.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Quick question here, I currently have my SPL1500R plugged into a power conditioner that is on it's own 15A circuit with the rest of my HT equipment, but I have to have a 20 foot extension cable to get that to work.

I want to move the sub to a different circuit and use one of those Monster SW200's. My only concern is that is not on a dedicated circuit, and there is a "beer fridge" plugged into that circuit, and when it kicks on, I can see the lights dim.

Will that damage the sub? The SW200 will cover the spikes, but I don't have a battery solution to cover the dips...

Thanks

Hi,
The amplifier is designed to operate in it's rated range. A drop in voltage could damage the subwoofer amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Still fooling around with the new DD-18 and enjoying the tinkering. A couple of quick questions:

1. The contour freq/contour level settings: I'm taking it that this is somewhat analogous to a "house curve" in that a setting of 35 and 2.0 boosts the output at 35 Htz for 2 Db (this is the default of preset 1). And if so, then a setting of 35 and 0.0 would have no effect whatsoever (the default of preset 2) Is this correct? I.E. if the contour level is set to 0.0, the contour freq will have no effect, yes?

2. When setting filters, what does "Q" represent? I am gathering this is a bandwidth setting and the lower the number, the wider the filter effect. Is this correct?

Thanks Curt.

Hi,
1) You are correct. Think of contour as a 9th eq or the old 'loudness compensation'. At '0' there is no effect.
2) Correct again.
Good Job.
Curt (480) 595-7141

snookboy,

I didn't fully understand what the purpose of the "Q" setting was, and asked about this feature a while back. Bruce Hall chimed in with the following detailed explanation.

Mark


Hi,
Q is a widely misunderstood concept in audio, so don't feel bad that you don't know it. At least you are asking!

Q stands for quality of the audio filter. A high Q is a very high quality filter, and a lower Q is a less precise (aka sloppier) filter. An EQ is in fact a filter, in that it will have an effect on only certain frequencies of the audio spectrum. If you look at the default DD EQ positions, you will see the vertical bars are evenly spaced. You will also notice that all the Qs are default to 4.3. Both these defaults are at third-octave. The 4.3 means that the filter will affect only those frequencies that are about 1/2 of the way up and 1/2 of the way down to the adjacent filter. Increasing the Q means the band of affected frequencies narrows, but the filtering effect is more precise, and lowering it means that more surrounding frequencies are affected, but the filtering is less effective. The Q ranges are from .3 to 20.0, with a default of 4.3 as stated above.

The level is also important here - if you change the Q of an EQ that has a level of 0, it will make no difference, and even high level (plus or minus) EQs can have a subtle change in their audio signature as the Q is changed.

Q is most useful when trying to attack a stubborn peak or dip. Like most other things in EQing, it is very much trial and error to get a flat curve sometimes!

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Hello All,

I'm interested in getting a DD12 or DD15 sub because of the line level pre-outs. For mains I have B&W 804s and am interested in running the sub inline for home theatre and 2 CH music. To accomplish this I would set my mains in my processor to LARGE and have Sub set to NO. Physically it would look like this.

Processor Front pre-outs-> DD15 Line level Inputs -> DD15 Line Level output -> 2CH Amplifier Inputs -> 804S Speakers


I just have a few questions before i audition:

In the specs, the High Pass filter for the line level pre-outs is at 80Hz at 6db/octave roll off, is there anyway to lower this to say 50-60hz?

The reason i want a lower x-over point is to reduce bass localization. The sub would be placed in a corner away from the front soundstage and i do not want to know bass is coming from the corner.

Also, if i go this route for setting the sub what x-over setting should i set the Low Pass filter? Would it be set at 80Hz and 6Db roll off to match the high pass filter?


BTW, would the DD12 fill a 25 x 15 size room open to a 16 x 12 kitchen?

Thanks
Steve

Hi,
Your cubic displacement calls for a DD-18 or a pair of DD-15's. The high-pass filter is 80hz and not adjustable. You would set the low-pass crossover to blend with the speakers, and that may or may not be 80hz. With the DD set up correctly you can view the integration on your TV. Feel free to call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

On the Velodyne Site, the Dealer Locator for Canada always returns "No Results Found". I tried every possible Postal Code, Area code and nothing returns.

I dont want to call long distance to Velodyne.

Can i get a few dealers in the Toronto area please?

In the meantime Velodyne, please fix your site.

Hi,
I PM'd you some Canadian contacts.
Curt

I just got my HGS-18 amp back, and I have to tell you I have never dealt with a company that gives this type of customer service before. Curt C, Dave Santos, and Rob Morse, were terrific to deal with - took care of the problem quickly and cost effectively for me. And this for an old product - way out of warranty - that they absolutely did not have to mess with. Bravo! Other companies should strive to come close to these guys. I am a die-hard Velodyne fan forever!

Thanks yatchaks. Very helpful.

Dr. X
Thank you very much. This made my Monday! I forwarded your message to Dave and Rob.
Curt

I recently had the same experience as Dr. X.

My old HGS-15 had amp issues. I run it all the time with the TV, which gets alot of use at my house. It was making clipping noises, but at low levels.

I emailed the guys at Velodyne and they said to send back the amp. I was relieved, since I had no idea how I'd send out the whole thing.

They said it was bad and they had a replacement for me for a reasonable cost. This is a 6 year old speaker. I can't think of anything else I own that's 6 years old for which I can get such great service.

I asked them to overnight it so it would be ready for my superbowl patry. No problem.

It's now back shaking the walls like when it was new.

Thanks.

To anybody reading this doing research: In addition to making great hardware, Velodyne really backs their work.....and I'm hard to please.

Good Tuesday too. Thanks much.
Curt

Perhaps I can make your wednesday?!

The Velodyne customer service works great in Sweden also.
A while ago I needed a new amp for my HGS-12, and they gave me fast service and a fair price too...

Still I have a question. How do I change the auto on/off time in the HGS?
I am asking because the sub keeps turning on and off while watching a movie.
At first I believed that there were problems whit the LFE signal from the receiver, so I tried a different sub and it worked fine. (NOT considering the terrible sound performance :D )
(And yes, I have tried changing the parameters in my receiver and sub. I´am using a 'Y' splitter.
The sub works fine (GREAT) when in power ON mode and the problem is with AUTO mode.

What are my options? Can I change the timer that turns it off or maybe the freq. is set to low internal for wake up?

Placement of the sub in my theater makes it difficult to manually turning it on/off.

Thanks /Peter

Hi,
I'm sorry there are no adjustments for the auto on/off sensitivity or timing. The best method (usually) is to have the sub-out volume in your receiver about three fourths of the way up and back off on the sub's volume. If you are watching sources without bass content it is going to time out, normally around 15 minutes.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I guess that I somehow need to find a way to move the ON/AUTO swith (or fix a electricity supply ON/OFF swith) for the sub where I can reach it. Not the solution I wanted. :(
My sub goes into time out after 9 minutes, so I guess I have to choose Hi Octane action movies with minimal intermissions. ;)

What should the volume be set at on my SPL-15r? Is there a max volume I should not go past to avoid damage to the driver or amp? I do not think it has enough output now compared to my Sunfire MK II that is replaced. I am expecting the Velodyne to have more output, am I right?
Bradley

Hi,
It's best to keep the SPL-1500R in the thirties or forties as maximum. You should increase the output of your receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack and use a 'Y' splitter into both sub's input jacks. The SPL is a sealed box and will have less output than many bass reflex designs. Sealed boxes are noted for ultimate accuracy.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt
I had trouble with my Sunfire breaking twice and I am worried about the Velodyne breaking also. I only listen at low to moderate levels, I have three girls under 6 :) who do not appreciate high levels. If I leave the volume in the forties would you say there is little risk of damaging the subwoofer.
Bradley

Hi,
If you do the things I suggested and you listen at low to moderate levels, and the sub is the correct size for your area, I would think you would be in the twenties or low thirties. The sub should be very reliable if you don't exceed forty. Since you already had the other go twice, are you sure you have a big enough subwoofer. See www.velodyne.com and then 'which product'.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
How does the HGS-15 and the SPL-1500R compare in terms of output? My dad has the HGS-15 and it rocks. Should my SPL-1500R be comprable to the HGS-15.
Bradley

Hi,
In the exact same setting the HGS-15 has a little more output, especially in the deepest bass. You can never compare different locations though. For maximum output, go with a corner location away from any openings. What is your total cubic displacement including all openings? If you're not sure how to figure, call me.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt

On the SMS-1, is the pass through output only active if you have a unbalanced (rca plug) input? I have a balanced input that seems to output both balanced and unbalanced with equalization applied, but the unbalanced pass through seems to not work.

Hi,
Yes the thru-output works only with the unbalanced inputs.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello

I have a strange problem with my Velo DD10. It plays the test sweep only from the main speakers but not from the subwoofer.

If I connect the cable from the EQ-out to my amplifier it plays the test signal from the main speakers just allright and shows the graph on my TV. If I disconnect the amplifier cable there is no sound at all in the setup screen. I tried to reset the settings with 8-9-0, but it did not help.

Is there any hard reset option or anything else I could try. The sub works well otherwise when I connect it to my CD-player it works just fine.

Hi,
It appears you may not have the sub-out of your receiver hooked to the input of the DD. Otherwise it's a receiver issue. Make sure you're in a stereo mode.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt for a super fast reply.

I have 2-channel system only, so do I need a "return" cable from the amplifier back to the sub.
I have now only 1 stereo RCA from Velo EQ-out to Amp line1-in.

Thanks in advance.

Hi,
You need an output from your preamp (left and right) to the inputs of the DD. An alternative would be from your power amplifier (left and right) to the speaker-level inputs of the DD. If you have an integrated amp without any pre-outs, you would have to make the speaker-level connection. The DD needs an input. You might want to give me a call.
Curt (408) 595-7141

Curt,

My dealer mentioned 2 years for the amp and 10 years for the driver and cabinet. Can you confirm the Canadian warranty for these DD units?

Thanks,
STeve

Hi,
Any products sold after 1-1-07 have a three year parts and labor warranty on the electronics and a five year parts and labor warranty on the drivers. Sorry for the wrong information.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Works now !
It was just that I have been leading almost 2 happy years with my sub without a need to do any new equalizations, so I had completely forgotten how to hook it for that. Bought just new main speakers so I wanted to make new adjustments.
Great customer support, thank you Curt !

Curt,

I'm aware that the HGS-15s and 18s could only be shipped strapped to a pallet.

Do the DD 15s and 18s have the same requirement??

Hi,
It's certainly our recommendation.
Curt

Does anyone know how long a sub-woofer cable can be? I am planning on using RG6 coax up to 40' from the amp to my Velodyne DPS-12, and was wondering if I would lose anything in terms of response or signal?

Hi,
Forty to fifty feet is generally considered to be the limit for subwoofer line-level runs. You should be fine.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I need a another recommendation.

My room volume is about 4500 cubic feet. For the same price would one be better off with Dual DD10 or a single DD18?

I'm more concerned about SQ and integration. What about from a SPL standpoint, would the Dual DD10's come close to a single DD18?

THanks again,
Steve

Hi,
Of the two choices, certainly the DD-18. No the dual ten's don't have near the output. You should start with a DD-18 and add a second if necessary.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

A question about my SMS-1. If I power up the SMS-1 via a serial command, no IR commands will then work, just serial commands. To return to IR control I have to turn off the SMS-1 via the front power switch and then turn it back on. I can then use IR commands. However, after doing this, if at any time I send it a serial command, IR does not work again, forcing me to again turn the unit off and then on to regain IR control.

Is it suppose to work this way?

Update: With the setup screen displayed, I see that whenever I send a serial command it goes into "Slave Mode". While in this mode IR does not work. What the heck is "slave mode"?

Thanks,
John

My room is 1800 cu with about an 800 cu kitchen attached for about 2600 cu. Oh yea, it is also an apartment, but I hope to be moving into a house by this time next year. Point is that I will not be able to truly push my system unless the neighbors are gone, which does happen.

Anyway I'm going to be auditioning subs tomorrow and have the DD-12 and SPL 1200R on the list. Both are a lot more $$ then the 1K I originally was considering. But my dealer has 2 floor models discounted, DD-12 for $2300 and the SPL 1000R for I think he said 1300.

At this point it is likely I will try to compromise and go with the SPL-1200R online as I have seen some decent prices in the 1500 range

My questions;

Are these subs over kill for me? I will have to listen to them at fairly low levels until I have a more HT friendly living situation.

Are there reputable online dealers for the SPL series?

Are these floor model prices good?

What subs would you suggest? DO you think one should spend as much as they can afford on these things?

My system is: 70/30 music/movie

Denon 2807
Paradigm Studio 60 v4,
Studio cc590 v4
Studio ADP 590 v4

Thanks for taking the time

DN

Hey Curt,

Do you know of any upcoming software updates or "tweaks" that will allow the SMS-1 to boost more than 6db?
If so, it sure would make it the must have for the DIY crowd and those with worse than average rooms. I would venture to guess sales would increase substantially as an alternative to the BFD.

jpmst3,

Not speaking for Curt, but you basically want to avoid boost larger than 6 dbs as once you move out of your, it'll sound like a one note sub. Actually, what I do after setting the equalizer, is move the mike across a range of seating positions to be sure that I don't have some peak that didn't show up when measuring just one position.

Jim, that may be true of commercial subs that have the sub pre-EQed for flat anechoic response and the SMS is just being used to tame some in-room peaks. But, that is not true for DIY sealed enclosures (small) wiht low Qes that may need as much as 10db below 20Hz to be flat.

So, being able to have the flexibility to boost 12db for instance would be beneficial for some...even if you only need 7-8db.

jpmst3,

I wasn't aware that DIY subs had this additional requirement. Still seems that you're trying to make the driver do something that isn't designed to do. Could you achieve essentially the same by running the sub louder and using the SMS-1 to reduce the other frequencies??

I wish it were that simple. You have to remember in a sealed enclosure, take the DD-18 for an example to produce a 100db at 50Hz it might take only 200 watts, but to produce 100db at 20Hz might take 1100 watts. So, that sub might already be adding something like a 10db boost at 20Hz, that is before any user adjustable EQ is even considered. It is just physics in a sealed enclosure, hence the 1250 watt amps.

The difference is that this is already done for you when you get a mass produced commercial product. If that boost wasn't present and built-in for the consumer the subs freq response would roll off very quickly possibly starting at 80-100 hz and be down as much as 6-12 db at 20Hz (or more with some drivers/enclosures). Small rooms can help reinforce things down low, but often not nearly enough in not pre-Eqed subs...

Are these subs over kill for me? I will have to listen to them at fairly low levels until I have a more HT friendly living situation.



Not really any such thing as overkill in the sub dept. The more capability (headroom) the sub has the less strain it will be under in normal operating conditions and the more capability it will have when called upon to do more. Get the best sub you can afford. The DDs are much more versatile then the SPL series.

Hi,
Of the two choices, certainly the DD-18. No the dual ten's don't have near the output. You should start with a DD-18 and add a second if necessary.
Curt (480) 595-7141


Thanks again Curt!

I just want to publicly thank David Santos ( previous typo ) at Velodyne for oustanding customer service with my DD-18. :) :) :)

many thanks - Andy

Hi,
Officially it's David Santos and I'll pass it on.
Curt

Hi,
I am putting together a HT driven by Integra DTR7.7, Monitor Audio GS60 Fronts, GSLCR and GS FX for surround.

I initially wanted to go with DD12 as my Sub but budget constraints made me choose DD10.

Now, I have what you may a call a 'buyers' remorse', if that is the right term here. I am afraid, may be I sacrificed a lot.

Could somebody tell me whether it would be a real issue. My room dimensions are 17L x 12W x 9H.

Thanks

Hi,
The DD-10 should do a fine job assuming your room doesn't have permanent openings. When budgeting for a system, keep in mind the subwoofer can make or break a system so I always recommend going with the best you can afford. The larger units will always have more output and that reserve capability is often needed on bass challenging movies.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Is it possible to change the 80Hz high pass filter on the DD series to something lower?

80Hz seems fairly high and i would like something around 50-60Hz.

THanks,
Steve

Hi,
Sorry the high-pass filter is not adjustable. However since it is a 6db (shallow) roll off, the signal to your speakers is only down 6db at 40hz and this works very well for even most full range speakers. I'd give it a try.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks again Curt!

Can anyone comment on the quality of the Line-level pre-outs with the DD?

I'm very close in making my final decision...

Curt,
I spoke with you a few days ago about my 6,000 sq. foot space and you recommended I go with dual dls-5000, there are a few things I do not like about the DLS series, I would rather go with SPL or DD series. I would like to stick with velodyne products, I think that Velodyne has the best appearance, and customer service. I can go with dual subwoofers if I need to. I like the eq functions of the spl and dd series along with the appearance. Do you think 1 dd-18 would do the job for my room. I want lots of bass.
Bradley

Curt,

I have a real question, so please take this seriously.
I currently have a DLS-5000R in a room with about 640 cu ft (8.5ft ceiling, 9ft wide, 12ft long). I'm really lacking low end. I was looking at buying a DD-18 or a JL Audio Gotham. How much room gain would I be getting in my sized room? I know it seems crazy, but I settle for nothing but the best. :) I was looking to get pretty close to the single digits in my room, or atleast 12hz of usable response. With 2 DD18s would I be able to do so? Or would I need more?

Hi,
I have no way of predicting how much RTF (room transfer function) may happen in your room. Frankly IMO the difference between 15hz and 12 hz or lower, would not be detectable. I would suggest you start with a single DD-18. I will be back in the office on Thursday and suggest you call me if you need more input.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
I cannot seem to find an answer to this on your site.

My home theatre room is attached to the kitchen and dining room in one large "hall" 32 x 12 x 8 = 3072 cubic feet.

Now the question is that there is a hallway that feeds into the dining room and a family room that feeds into it through an approx 6x7 opening both from the side.

Do you add the hallway and the living room area cubic feet to the total? If so when do you stop, the hallway leads to a stairway to the upstairs?

If all add up then I would be at 5200 ft I wanted to use a single dd 18 along with my def tech 7001 mains with the subs built in.

thanks in advance

Hi,
Yes you keep adding until you hit a dead end. You may need two-DD-18's, however I would start with one and with your Def-Techs working in support, that may be enough.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Ahoy!

I have an old, but still functional, Velodyne ULD-15 sub that I would like to use in a new home theater setup. My outdated Dolby Pro Logic separates are being replaced with a Denon AVR2106 7.1 Dolby Digital/DTS receiver. There seems to be at least 2 ways to integrate the sub into the system:

1. Use the receiver crossover: Plug one end of a single RCA cable into the subwoofer output on the Denon receiver, the other end into a y splitter, and the two split inputs into the left and right inputs on the Velodyne controller/amplifier. On the Denon, set all speakers to “small” (which they are, North Creek Echo kits, still being built). and “Subwoofer On”. Or…

2. Use the Velodyne crossover: Use 2 RCA cables to go from the main channel left and right main speaker pre-outs on the Denon receiver to the left and right inputs on the Velodyne controller/amplifier. 2 more RCA cables would then go from the outputs on the Velodyne controller/amplifier to the external left and right main inputs on the Denon receiver. Set all speakers to “small” except the mains, which would be set to “large”. Set the Denon to “Subwoofer Off”.

In case 1, the Denon receiver would strip out the low end and send it to the Velodyne, along with the LFE information

In case 2, the Velodyne controller/amplifier would strip the low end out of the signal going to the mains. What would happen to the LFE information in DD and DTS sources? Would it be part of the left and right mains signal going out of the Denon?

Am I showing my ignorance? Or do I understand properly and choose Option 1? It seems the best option, but is not using the subs as they were originally intended.

Thanks for any advice!!

Hi,
You definitely want to use method #1. You've defined #2 correctly but there is no advantage and #1 handles everything correctly.
Curt

Thanks Curt! Wow, that was fast! One more quickie... I believe the ULD-15 has a default 85 hz or so crossover. Will that work okay with a crossover set at 80 hz on the Denon? Choices are 40/60/80/100/150/200/250. I can't go above 80 on the Denon anyway, right, as the Velodyne controller/amp will strip out anything above that, leaving a hole. I believe the Echos should have a bit higher crossover... but I can't do it with without modifying the Velodyne. Correct?

As it turns out, my DD-18 microphone is foobar ( accident of previous owner )

Is this a standard off-the-shelf item ( Behringer ECM8000 ? ) or should I order one from Velo Parts ?

thanks - Andy

Hi,
To be sure, I would order the Velodyne.
Curt

Thanks Curt! Wow, that was fast! One more quickie... I believe the ULD-15 has a default 85 hz or so crossover. Will that work okay with a crossover set at 80 hz on the Denon? Choices are 40/60/80/100/150/200/250. I can't go above 80 on the Denon anyway, right, as the Velodyne controller/amp will strip out anything above that, leaving a hole. I believe the Echos should have a bit higher crossover... but I can't do it with without modifying the Velodyne. Correct?

Hi,
The 80hz will work fine with the ULD's 85hz. To go higher you would need to modify the ULD's crossover.
Curt

Hi guys, I am thinking of gettiing a DD sub, and I was wondering if there is any correlation between size of speaker driver and size of subwoofer driver. As an example, if I were to cross over to the sub at 100 hz, with small bookshelf speakers, is this too high of a range for the DD15 to play, and would I be better off with the DD12 in this scenario?

Thanks
Greg

I apologize if this is the wrong forum, but just wanted to check in case.

I tried to order a set of Front Row speakers over the phone yesterday b/c I need them by next Friday for an install (it says to call if you need faster shipping). I unsuccessfully was on hold 3 times for about 15 minutes each time. I left a message and never got a call back. I eventually placed my order online but don't think there is any way they will get here by next Friday.

Is there someone I can call/e-mail to expedite my order (I am willing to pay for faster shipping).

Thanks! :)

Hi,
I will forward your message to the proper department. PM me your name and phone number, or call me. I need the info ASAP.
Curt (480) 595-7141

A follow-up to Andy Lammer's question above. Or, perhaps, exactly the opposite question: Are the pinouts on the Velo mic compatible with other equipment? Which is to say, can I (assuming that I send it out for calibration over the full spectrum) consider the mic that came with my SMS-1 as a suitable backup to my current DIY measurement mic, which is the Behringer discussed above?

As it turns out, my DD-18 microphone is foobar ( accident of previous owner )

Is this a standard off-the-shelf item ( Behringer ECM8000 ? ) or should I order one from Velo Parts ?

thanks - Andy

Andy and DS,

I've got both and they have the same pin out.

DS,
When these microphones are calibrated, nothing is actually done to the microphone. You get a correction file that you load into the software that's you'll be using.

The file that I got back on the Behringer ECM8000 that I had prior to getting the one that came with the SMS-1, was fairly flat below 100hz. If I recall correctly, it only had about a .5 dbs variance below 100hz. That's good enough.

Hi,
Yes the pin outs are standard. Several user's have indicated after calibration they have used it for other purposes.
Curt

Andy and DS,

I've got both and they have the same pin out.

DS,
When these microphones are calibrated, nothing is actually done to the microphone. You get a correction file that you load into the software that's you'll be using.

Thanks Jim and Curt for the information on the mic.

Jim, Fortunately, loading calibration files into the measurement software I use (FuzzMeasure (http://www.supermegaultragroovy.com/products/FuzzMeasure/)) makes it, well, Mac-like to load calibration files.

Also, I do not remember the calibration file from my Behringer mic (by Kim Girardin) being quite as clean as yours was. From memory, had about a 5dB bump at like 9kHz and an LF rolloff starting at ~35Hz. Still, in the range that really matters for crossover design, it is admirably flat. The Velodyne mic looks like the same piece, so I'll be interested to see what its calibration profile looks like.

Curt,

I was reading this morning that the delay induced by the SMS-1 could be adjusted out by setting the sub location in the preamp/receiver to 2.5 Ft. further than it physically is. It seems that I had heard 4 Ft. before. Do you know which one it is? Also, does the processing in an HGS-15 also add to this delay? If so, by how much?

Hi,
To me the delay is insignificant. If it was a concern, I would say a couple of feet would be about right. If I hear a better answer I'll let you know. The HGS does not have any digital processing, if you mean the DD, then it would be the same as the SMS.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I bought the Deco system a couple years ago and recently a binding post came undone on a satellite and I can't put it back in. Where can I take it to get fixed and hwmuch will it cost. I spent an hour trying to take it apart, but I don't want to damage it.

Hi,
On Monday, contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, Ext. 3851.
Curt

Hi,

Just realized that my CHT-15 no longer turns on. It has been 2,5 years since I bought the thing so I think warranty is no longer valid. I love the thing and I don't think that model is in production anymore.

What should I do next? Is there a fuse that I could check and if the fuse is blown, can I change it myself and what is a probable cause for this failure? It is not on a powerstrip but haven't had any lightning or anything since it last worked.

Sam

Hi,
We still service the CHT-15. Please contact Velodyne service, Monday through Friday at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, Ext. #3851.
Thanks,
Curt

OK - I tried to replace the fuse (3AG SB) and it goes out immeditately with a brigh flash, what the heck's going on you think? Is this repairable or am I forced to buy a new sub?? although the thing sounds awesome, can't buy another velodyne if this is the lifespan..

Hi,
Yes it is repairable. The amplifier will need service. Contact Velodyne service dept. for a quote and instructions on returning the amp section.
Curt

Tried emailing and an calling the number you provided a few times, no response to email and VM for phone. What is a typical response time you would say? Any other number that I could try than that extension?

Usually same day response, however Monday's are very busy. I've been on the phone almost constantly today. I'll forward your message.
Thanks,
Curt

What speaker gauge and wires do you recommend for this setup?

I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on speaker wire, maybe $50 for 100ft, any recommendations?

16 gauge?

Hi,
For the CHT's, 16 gauge is usually fine. If some of the runs are over 25', I'd go with 14 gauge.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

hi everybody,
I am the proud owner of a DD18 since 2 weeks. I decided for a DD 18 because of its uncompromised overall performance and capability to adjust perfectly to less than perfect rooms thanks to the onboard EQ.
A quick autoEQ resulted already in some pretty good performance in my 3200 cu ft HT/listening room that is open to a 4800 cu ft living room, a 2100 cu ft entrance hall and a 1700 cu ft dining room :eek: .

For the manual EQ I encountered some problems:

1) connected the sub EQ out to audio input of my pre/pro with the supplied rca cables and connected the subs LFE input with the pre/pro sub out. When unmuting the sub and raising the volume I have to go to max volume 99 to match the volume with the speakers. Isn't that way too much? I couldn't leave the sub at such a high level... With the auto EQ volume was merely at 15 and the sub was very much present. My pre/pro does not have sub volume level.

2)If I set my full range main speakers on large in the pre/pro, the DD shuts off. The DD only plays if I set the main speakers to small. What should I do to have my speakers at full range together with the sub? Should I set the sub's low pass xover to OFF? My pre/pro has only one xover level at 80 hz. Is there any other option? A pair of RCA from the audio outputs to the sub's line level inputs? If yes, can I have both the LFE input and line level inputs connected simultaneously?

3) According to the manual the THX Ultra 2 presets are low pass xover OFF and the slope at 6db per octave. However, if I put the xover to OFF in preset 5, the slope as well goes automatically goes OFF.

Hopefully some can shed some light on these points. Thanks!

Hi,
First of all your total cubic displacement would call for more than one DD-18.
1) All Dolby Digital surround processors have volume controls for the subwoofer outputs.The DD's volume should never be '99'.
2) Some processors do not send bass to the subwoofer when speakers are called large except when a DVD is being played.
3) When the low pass crossover is bypassed, so is the slope. This is not an issue.
I have questions, so please call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hey,
I have had my Velodyne DPS-10 for about a year and been very happy with it. I moved into a new apartment, yesterday. Tried the sub at night after I was done setting up the home theatre and got some extra weird noises in the sub, usually when it wasn't trying to play anything. Today Im woken upto the sub making very loud static noises every 20 seconds. The home theatre system, an Onkyo, was off, even though the sub was making nosie. I unplugged the RCA, no change. So I turn it off, unplug from the wall, plug in and turn on. Now all of my LED's light up, not the normal 2, and there is no audio at all. I tried moving knobs and when I changed the phase position, the lights turned normal, and a weird hum came, and then turned high pitched. So now this is all it will do, turn on with all LED's lit up, or make the high pitch noise. I took the sub out and metered it, the impedance was between 2 ohms and 12 ohms, not 8. The LED's still behave the same whether the sub is plugged into the amp or not. So is just my amp fubar or do you guys think the whole thing is? I have no receipt because I got this from Velodyne on an accomidation deal as a Circuit City employee, payed only $140 for it brand new! There should be a 2 year warranty on parts and labor. Anyway any help would be appreciated. Havent called Velodyne because they're close on Sunday. Thanks. Justin

Hi,
Try doing a software reset by pressing the presets in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). If that fails, call Velodyne service tomorrow at; 408-465-2800, ext. 3851.
Thanks,
Curt

AVS Forum welcomes Bruce Hall, President/CEO of Velodyne.

In this thread, please feel free to ask support questions in regards to Velodyne products. Velodyne staff will monitor the thread and respond as they can. Members of this forum of course are also welcome to help out as they can. For after all, this site is dedicated to people helping people in Home Theater.


I have sent in my SPL-10BV amp plate for repair. I was told that any upgrades available for the amp would be installed at the time of repair. However, I was not told what the upgrades would include or what difference in performance I could expect. Can you enlighten me. Thanks. Dennis

Hi,
I suggest you contact Velodyne service manager, Dave Santos as to what upgrades have been made to the SPL amplifier.
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

If anyone is looking for a used DLS-5000R please pm me. :D

Hey Curt thankyou for the help, it worked a little bit but didnt totally fix the problem. But Velodyne is taking care of me and I have an RMA number for the amp. The guy told me not to send in the sub even though I told him the ohm readings I was getting. When I checked it again today, it was exactly 6.4 ohms not 8. Should I insist on sending in the subwoofer with the amplifier, or can I expect degraded performance when the new amp comes in. Im only worried because during this whole thing there were several times that high pitched we're talking over 1000hz, came out the sub. And when I tried your reset tip, it worked for a minute and when I hooked up to the Home theatre system it sounded much quiter. Thanks for the help.
Justin

Hi,
I'm sure it's the amplifier. The speaker will reproduce what the amp sends out, even if it's a 1K squeal. And 6.4ohms is about right. I'm sure when you receive the amp back it will perform correctly.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

Is there any logic to going with two DD12s over one DD18?

Hi,
Not sure what you mean by logic. Are you referring to stereo subs or two mono DD-12's. One DD-18 will play louder and go deeper than two DD-12's. For really deep powerful bass the DD-18, or a pair of DD-18's, is the way to go if the budget and room size allow.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I had found some people selling their DD18s to get a pair of DD12s and was just wondering why someone would do that.

In my situation, I'm thinking two mono subs.

Hi,
No idea why someone would do that. I love my 18's. I have heard some people say it's easier to place two small subs than one larger one.
Curt (480) 595-7141

in the digital drive setup menu, there is something called the subsonic filter ...

what's the range that I can change this? can I go lower than 15? can I go up to 50hz?

Hi,
The range of the subsonic filter in the DD series is 15 to 35hz.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

thanks curt!

I noticed something strange last night, well actually I noticed it once before, so this is actually the second time...at some point during the movie my sms-1 stopped outputting a signal to the sub amp...it was still turned on, but nothing was going through.

I cycled the power and everything was back to normal. I'm running the latest firmware. This concerns me somewhat...

I was on htguide.com and saw a picture of the Velo DD18 along with the SMS-1. I was wondering if the SMS-1 is really necessary with the DD series subs since the DD series has the on-screen display that the SMS-1 shows. BTW, yes I am a proud owner of the DD 18.

Hi,
You would not need the SMS with the DD series subwoofers since they perform the same function. The SMS will provide the digital processing of the DD's for older Velodyne's and other brand subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt

I was on htguide.com and saw a picture of the Velo DD18 along with the SMS-1. I was wondering if the SMS-1 is really necessary with the DD series subs since the DD series has the on-screen display that the SMS-1 shows. BTW, yes I am a proud owner of the DD 18.

if we saw the same picture from htguide.com ... that person had a DD18 and a HGS15/18. he is using the SMS-1 on the HGS subwoofer

Hi,
If you are in the auto/on mode it will cycle off with no (or inadequate) bass signal for 15 or so minutes. Turning it off and back on would restore normal operation. Could that be the problem? Always make sure the SMS is receiving plenty of input from the receiver or pre/pro.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

Thanks for the response. I've been using the SMS for some time now, and I am not sure what auto mode you are speaking of? Can you be more specific.

As for input signal, my system is calibrated to 85db at MV 0 and I listen at -10, so there should be plenty of input. You seem to imply that that in this auto mode the sms will turn itself "off" if the signal disappears? that would mean that during scenes of heavy dialog with no lfe the sms could shut down?

when the sms stops outputting, the unit is actually still on..ie the display is lit as if everything was normal.

-patrick

patrick,

Are you sure that the SMS is going to sleep or is it the sub?

I've got a SMS driving a sub and the sub occassionally goes to sleep if there isn't any low frequency demand.

if we saw the same picture from htguide.com ... that person had a DD18 and a HGS15/18. he is using the SMS-1 on the HGS subwoofer

That would make sense.
Curt

That would make sense.
Curt

I agree. I guess I was paying more attention to the DD 18.

Is Velodyne working on any software updates to add anymore great features to the dd series subwoofers? Thanks

Chad

patrick,

Are you sure that the SMS is going to sleep or is it the sub?

I've got a SMS driving a sub and the sub occassionally goes to sleep if there isn't any low frequency demand.

JimP,

my sub is an IB powered by a Behringer EP1500...it does not have any auto sensing circuitry...when this happens, cycling the amp does nothing..cycling the sms-1 returns everything to normal. Curt has asked me to call him tomorrow.

-patrick

Hi,

I just hooked up a Velodyne CHT-12 to my Integra DTR-5.4 A/V receiver. The problem is that whenever I turn the receiver on or off, the sub pops really loud...shaking the house loud. I have the sub across the room (the room was pre-wired). So, the sub remains on all the time. I switched the sub to "auto" for the auto turn on function and the popping still happens - both turning on and off. The sub is hooked up via a "pre-out" output. Even when I mute the receiver and then turn it off, I still get the popping sound. However, when I turn the volume down on the Velodyne volume control (i.e., I get now sound coming out of the sub at all), then I do not get the popping sound when I turn on/off the receiver. Any ideas what is going on and how I could keep the sub's volume at a reasonable level - that is, not have to manually adjust the volume level from the sub - and not get this popping sound?

Hi,
If you have another receiver or preamp, try hooking the sub to that, to eliminate it being the Integra. If it's the sub, you need to contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; 408-465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com. The sub's amplifier will need to be sent in for repair.
Thanks,
Curt

Ok, so I am continuing to play around with the EQ. I am a little confused when it comes to the "Q" setting. I understand that the "Q" has an affect on the curve. The lower the "Q" setting means a wider impact on the curve. The higher the "Q" setting means a lesser impact on the curve. My question is how would I really use the "Q" to remove a dip at 32HZ for example? I understand that you really have to be cautious when it comes to eliminating dips; but, I just really want someone to explain to me in simple terms how to use the "Q" setting for peaks and dips. I guess an example would do. If I have a dip at 32HZ and I set the "Q" to 3.5, how much of the frequency at 32HZ am I impacting? If I set the "Q" at 10.5 how much of the frequency at 32HZ am I impacting?

Ok, I'm going to stop now because I am getting more confused. Can someone shed some light on this for me or tell me where I can find information on "Q" setting.

Hi,
I'll try to help. You're correct in that the lower 'Q' number has a wider frequency effect and the higher 'Q' numbers affect less frequencies. The 'Q' value is octave related, that is what fraction or percentage of the frequencies in an octave are effected. An octave is a doubling of frequency. So 20hz to 40hz is an octave, 40hz to 80hz is an octave and 80hz to 160hz is an octave. As the frequencies increase so do the frequencies within an octave.
The SMS/DD factory setting for 'Q' is 4.3, which is 1/3 octave, meaning a third of the frequencies within the selected octave will be effected. This third octave 'Q' is what works well for most cases and most users leave it at 4.3. In your 32hz dip case with the EQ bar set at 32hz and the 'Q' at 4.3 you would be affecting a range of about 29-35hz, with 32hz at the center. Keep in mind that most dips can only be eliminated by changing the location of the subwoofer. In the parametric mode you are able to move the EQ bars together for more EQ power, but again don't boost much. You didn't mention the width (frequencies) or depth (db) of your dip so it's hard to give you a 'Q' setting recommendation. If it's extremely narrow you might want to try '10'. You really do need to experiment. Very narrow dips are usually inaudible.
SMS/DD minimum 'Q' setting .3 equals 3.7 octaves, maximum 20 equals 1/14 octave.
Anyone with a better or simpler explanation, jump in. As always feel free to call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the clarification. I will chew on that for a while and see how things turn out. I very seldom ever try to boost a dip unless it's a very small dip. Normally, fairly large dips I don't even bother with.

Hi Guys, I've Been Trying To Read All The Past Threads For The Velodyne To Find The Answer To A Question I Have About My Set Up. I Have 1 Hgs-18 And I Just Received A New Dd-18 Yesterday. Sounds Magnificent!! Can I Equalize The Hgs-18 With The Dd-18? Probably Not But Wanted To Know For Sure. Thanks.

Hi,
You want to EQ the DD with both subs playing. You need to have the volume level of both subs the same at mic (listening) position.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

Nice chatting with you. BTW I won't be available on the phone until Monday.
Good Luck on your set-up.
Curt

So I have to ask, is the VX10 a worthwhile sub to pair with the CHT Front Row set, or should I look into something a little more powerful? This is for a small-medium-ish room.

Hi,
I would certainly recommend looking at the DLS-3750R or DLS-4000R. The CHT satellites are very high quality and the DLS is the update of the older CHT subwoofer which was the mate for the satellites. The remote control of the DLS series also comes in very handy.
Thanks,
Curt

Wanted everybody to know the great job Velodyne support did for me, amp was in and out in a week - totally impressed, and many THX.

Curt,
Do you recommend EQ'ing a DD sub to a flat response or to a house curve? I will have a DD-15 for the lower bass and a R-DES controlling the 8" woofers in my Onix Rocket RS1000's for the upper bass. I will have about the highest level of bass control that anyone could dream for! But I want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction when I start this journey. Thanks
Brady

Hi,
I would go for flat but that's up to you. You can have up to 5 different EQ's, one per preset so you're pretty much unlimited.
Curt

Hi Curt

I sent the amp from my DD-18 in for repair about a month ago. It isn't under warranty. Just wondering what kind of time I am looking at (ballpark figure). Just want to make sure it didn't get misplaced somewhere....

David Santos was very helpful haveing me try different things to get it to work and not have to be sent in......

Hi,
Please contact David at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
The repair facility is in California, I'm in Arizona.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
Please contact David at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
The repair facility is in California, I'm in Arizona.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanx Much

That was easy. Got the UPS tracking info as its on its way back to me.........

I tried going for a "flat" response with my DD15, but after doing this I quickly realized that what was flat in my sweet spot was almost the complete opposite in other seating positions (not so much valleys as massive hills). So I ended up having to take a "moderate" approach, trying to come up with something that was generally good for the sweet spot but didn't make other spots almost unlistenable. Beyond that, I kept the whole room a little bit richer in bass than flat would have equated, with a little more emphasis on 15-25hz for the fun of it.

I think you're going to have to clarify "large".

Edit: post I was responding to has been deleted.

Hi,
What is the RCA input impedance on the DD-15?
Thanks,
Andy.

Hi,
It's 46K.
Curt

Curt,

You had answered my question a while back about shipping an HGS-15 on a pallet, but does the HGS-12 also have to be shipped on a pallet using a motor freight company?

Hi,
It should be safer shipping the smaller DD's by FEDEX or UPS because they are less likely to be dropped. It's still a risk though and that's why we use pallets and commercial shippers.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

hi curt, on the manual/brochure of the DD ... I saw that the subsonic filter was bypassable ... was that disabled with ver. 2.2? if not, how do I disable the subsonic filter?

I've already tried changing from 24db/octave to 6db/octave to increase the 15hz freq., did I do it right?

one more thing, since I cannot set the crossover to bypass ... I upped it to 146+-hz to avoid cascading crossovers with the receiver ... am I right or was it unnecessary?

Hi,
You cannot bypass the subsonic filter on the DD. Yes 15hz, 6db will provide the least effect. We roll all our subs off at 15hz or higher. On 2.2 software you can bypass the low pass crossover, otherwise set it at 199 or 146 is fine.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

what button do I press to bypass the crossover? I've scrolled all the way up and down the crossover range and could not find the "bypass"

this is the DD v2.0 screen capture of the online manual ... it says the subsonic filter is "defeatable", i'm downloading the latest manual now ...

ribbit,

If its like the SMS-1, after you highlight the crossover frequency, press the "reset" button on the remote.

thanks Jim ... will try that.

finished downloading the v2.2 DD online manual ... it still says defeatable subsonic filter.

anyway ... I am curious about the SC series ...

is the SC amp available in 220v?

it can supply 1250w RMS ... at what ohms? (curious if I can use this in a DIY sub)

if I were to use another amp to power the SC subwoofers, what would be the recommended power for each size?
(edit: I found an online warranty series stating that the SC subs should only be used with the SC amp ... why is that?)

David- Please review this thread 822044 and give me a little feedback on your thoughts towards 2 DD12's or 1 DD 18 in a 2300 Cubic Ft room. Interesting battle going on.

thanks

andy

finished downloading the v2.2 DD online manual ... it still says defeatable subsonic filter.

anyway ... I am curious about the SC series ...

is the SC amp available in 220v?

it can supply 1250w RMS ... at what ohms? (curious if I can use this in a DIY sub)

if I were to use another amp to power the SC subwoofers, what would be the recommended power for each size?
(edit: I found an online warranty series stating that the SC subs should only be used with the SC amp ... why is that?)

Hi,
The low-pass crossover (on DD's) can be bypassed, the subsonic filter cannot.
The SC-1250 outboard amplifier is rated at 1250 watts RMS and provides that at 4 ohms. It can be used with other subwoofers, including DIY. The SC passive subwoofers should be used with the SC-1250 amp as the amplifier's software has the proper equalization for each variation. You just dial up which SC sub is connected and the amp is optimized for that woofer box or boxes. Each SC passive woofer is rated at 8 ohms so one SC-1250 amplifier can drive up to two SC woofers.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

thanks for the info Curt ... will study the SC specs more thoroughly

I would like to find questions and replies on setting up my DD 12 starting from oldest to newest ie reverse chronological order. No matter what I try I get everything and the kitchen sink. starting with yesterday or today. I don't want to read things backwards. SEARCH HELP NEEDED.

I have a 15 year old Velodyne ULD-15. It has been a great sub, but lately it is shutting down whenever the low frequency content gets good (discussed here before). I cannot afford to replace it, or even have it repaired for that matter, so I have an idea. Probably a really bad idea, so I thought I’d find out here if I am doing something stupid. I have an old Adcom GFA-555 II amp (400 watts bridged) laying around that works perfect. I was thinking of bypassing the Velodyne’s controller/amplifier completely and connecting the Adcom directly to the driver. The Adcom would receive the LFE signal from the 5.1 receiver. The sub would therefore be converted from a servo-feedback sub to just a normal acoustic suspension sub. Am I nuts?

Hi,
You will get very poor results. The ULD-15 enclosure is a small sealed box with a large 15" driver. The ULD amplifier-servo controller determines the proper equalization required for the unit to produce lower bass. In other words with your proposal you won't have any deep bass. I would suggest selling the Adcom and either repairing the ULD controller or upgrade to a newer subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I would like to find questions and replies on setting up my DD 12 starting from oldest to newest ie reverse chronological order. No matter what I try I get everything and the kitchen sink. starting with yesterday or today. I don't want to read things backwards. SEARCH HELP NEEDED.

then start at the last page of the results and work your way back...bottom up rather than top down

Hi - I have a DD-15 and I have accidentally crushed the connector between the front panel light and the cable supplying it. Is it possible to buy one, or is it a generic part that I can get from somewhere? It's difficult steering the sub without feedback, so any help appreciated.

Blue Jean Cables has advised me that a Y cable from the left and right main out on my pre amp should feed a single interconnect to the DD sub into the sub left in. Low frequency being non-directional. THe DD has a left and a right in??? Is blue jean correct?

Thanks on the seach feedback. My second problem is I get all kinds of search results that don't in any way match my search criterior. I'm searching for set up questions and answers on setting up a DD-12. In advanced search how can I state this?

Hi - I have a DD-15 and I have accidentally crushed the connector between the front panel light and the cable supplying it. Is it possible to buy one, or is it a generic part that I can get from somewhere? It's difficult steering the sub without feedback, so any help appreciated.


Hi,
For the best answer, contact Dave Santos (Velodyne service manager) at;
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt

I changed receivers from a Yamaha to a Pioneer.
When using the Yamaha the bass was great!, now I have no sound to Sub Woofer, is my new receiver too whimpy?

AV receiver Pioneer VSX-1016 110 W/ speaker
Polk Audio (Monitor 50) 150W front floor speakers.
Center channel Polk CS1
2 Polk Surrounds Monitor 10
and a Velodyne 1000 sub woofer

Woofer Cable has been tested and is fine.
Set front speakers to Small
Set crossover to 80
Tested about every config I think possible, but to no avail.

Sure miss the chest pounding sounds of that bass.
Your help is greatly appreciated.

Discovery

It appears your receiver is not programmed correctly or is defective. I'd check 'speaker set-up' again. Verify that fronts are 'small' and subwoofer 'yes'. To do a quick subwoofer trouble-shoot run the DVD/CD audio outputs directly into the subwoofer input jacks and play a CD.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt,

I did that and I get a soft slightly muddy rythm of bass. Certainly not what the CD or DVD would normally play going through the receiver, but the sound is there all the same. Should this be about what I hear?

I had set the receiver speakers to small, and sub to Yes. Looks like I may have a defective amp on my hands. Thanks for your advice - any other trouble shooting tips are welcome - Discovery

Ok Curt,

I switched the cables back after your test and guess what - on it went!
Believe me I checked and made sure that cable was tight many times over.
Perhaps this test triggered something within the bass with the auto on feature?

I dont know for sure, but I am sure glad I asked for help here and had you respond.
I'm very pleased to have that pumping bass sound from my V once again!

Thanks so much for your help.

Cheers - Discovery

Hi Curt, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to ask questions here as it says "quick reply", but I'm not sure where else to post, so sorry in advance if I'm wrong and let me know how to do it properly.

At any rate, the question. I am getting a new DD15 tomorrow, replacing a F1500R, through the factory replacement/upgrage program. I have a Yamaha RX-V2500, it has pre outs, but not main in's, so I'm not sure how to proceed with the connections and make this work as well as possible. I was trying to make up RCA cables in the correct number and length before it arrived and when I went to the PDF I got confused as to how the hook up was going to work. Rob at the factory said to use the pre-outs, but I'm not seeing how to get the yamaha amp to run the mains if I do that.

Any help is great, and thanks in advance. Garth Hoppes

What is the "factory replacement/upgrage program", is this exclusive with your particualr dealer or available to all?

Mark

Garth,
If your Yamaha is a 'Dolby Digital' surround receiver, then it has a subwoofer (rca) output jack and that is the proper connection to the input of the DD.
If there are questions, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

What is the "factory replacement/upgrage program", is this exclusive with your particualr dealer or available to all?

Mark

Hi,
When a Velodyne customer has a subwoofer we can no longer repair or service, we try to offer a trade-in on a modern (B-stock) product. Older products that fall into this category are usually ULD's and some F-series. The program is handled through the Velodyne service department.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

I recently purchased a set of CHT Front Rows with a VX-10 sub to go with an Onkyo SR504. Is it recommended to just get a RCA cable and connect the sub out on my receiver to the Line Input on the vx-10 and then run the CHTs directly from the main receiver?

If placing the sub in a corner is not possible, should I consider getting a longer cable to reach a corner or should I keep the sub placement in the front row?

Also, how can I "turn off" the crossover on the sub? I'm planning to just use the receiver for that. Thanks.

Hi,
Connect the satellites directly to the receiver. In speaker 'set-up' call all your speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. Set the receiver's crossover at 120hz (or close). In the receiver bring up the volume control for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
Run a 'rca' cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the Velodyne. Use a 'Y' splitter at the Velodyne end into both 'rca' input jacks. Get a long enough cable to place the sub in the corner, if possible. Put the Velodyne's crossover at 200hz, that bypasses the sub's crossover. Keep the volume of the sub below half way.
Thanks,
Curt

Hello curt,
I've been the owner of a DLS-5000R that I got as a gift from my uncle 3 years ago brand new, and this morning when I turned it on and played some music, the woofer pops and crackles. It worked fine before I went to sleep, although it didn't seem as strong as it used to, but I have no idea what could have blown the woofer.
This surprises me alot though.. If I recall correctly the amp has an internal protection system that should have prevented the woofer from overdriving?

Anyways, some help would be appreciated.. :)

Thanks

Hi,
Chances are it's an amplifier problem. On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

I was just wondering....it seems to me there seems to be quite a few amplifier failures happening. I know the sampling is skewed with reading posts in this thread. But recently, my HGS15's amp took a dump. The sub was working fine before I had to move it to allow my floorer's access to that area of the room. Everything was powered down before I disconnected all the connections. When I moved the sub back, reconnected everything, and powered up the sub, I got a lot of noise coming from the sub with zero signal input. I then shut the sub down, removed the input connections and just powered up the sub with zero connections to it except power....same thing. I then tried the sub on a different power circuit and same thing happened. I ask this because I previously had issues with a HGS12. The sub would produce random noise enough to startle me because it was pretty loud. I tried to get the guys at my dealer to reproduce the problem and they never could. I ended up swapping out the sub with another one and the problem never came back again.

Hi,
Sorry to hear of your problems. I will say one must be very careful when moving a servo subwoofer, they don't like even small drops. My experience is that most failures occur when the subwoofer is too small for the area, that is the total cubic displacement (see website, 'which product'). And It's not necessarily related to the volume you have the sub set at but the volume of the system. The subwoofer must (or attempt to) pressurize the total area the longer wavelengths can reach. In many cases the input from the receiver should be increased the keep the sub's volume low so the amp isn't working as hard. 'Y' splitters into both inputs are also a good idea as are corner locations, away from any room openings, especially when trying to get by with a smaller than recommended subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks Curt for the reply. I don't think I'm over driving the subs. Maybe it's just a fluke. I'm waiting for my dealer to call me when my plate amp is ready. They said their in house repair shop isn't equipped to repair the amps on site. I think they said something about sending it back to you for repairs which would make sense. It's been almost a month now. And when I moved the sub, I was pretty careful on how I moved it as I have hardwood floors and didn't want to damage the finish. But I'll recheck my level settings and see if those need to be adjusted when I get the amp back. Other than this hiccup, the sub's been working for 3 years straight with no problems.

Thanks for the feedback. And I didn't mean to imply that those issues applied to you. I will say most H/T or music systems are undersubbed and in many cases way under. We need to get the word out loud and clear, bigger subs and more subs. We will also do our best to make smaller units perform better and be more reliable. We have in the past year implemented hard core testing of all our subwoofers in our QC department. We're testing them way beyond what any (normal) consumer would put them through. We, like you, hate failures and it's priority number one with us. You might want to check with Dave Santos (dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819) regarding your amplifier, seems like it's been too long.
Thanks,
Curt

No offense taken. And through my own experiences, I agree that bigger drivers doesn't mean "slower."

I just called my dealer and they said they're still waiting for the amp to come back from you guys. So I'll give Dave a shout on Monday to see what's happening.

Thanks again.

Hello curt,

I've been on a long subwoofer hunt for my new HT and I believe I've finally decided on either the dd15 or dd18 and would like your advise as to if the dd18 is needed for my application. My theater room is about 1850 cf and is sealed and will be properly treated with panels. My mains are av123's rs1k's with built in 8" sealed subs. My HT will be used about 50/50 music and movies and I tend to listen at ref levels. I don't mind spending a little extra if thats really neccesary but as small as my room is and based on the reviews I've read and the spec's on velo's web site the dd18 may be overkill? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Kris

Hi,
You could go either way. The panels may absorb some of the low frequencies. IMO the DD-18 will not be overkill. Reference level as far as I know has different meaning for different people. Certainly either DD should be fine but the 18 will have more output capability in the deep frequencies. Maybe some others with a similar set-up will have input.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello curt,

I've been on a long subwoofer hunt for my new HT and I believe I've finally decided on either the dd15 or dd18 and would like your advise as to if the dd18 is needed for my application. My theater room is about 1850 cf and is sealed and will be properly treated with panels. My mains are av123's rs1k's with built in 8" sealed subs. My HT will be used about 50/50 music and movies and I tend to listen at ref levels. I don't mind spending a little extra if thats really neccesary but as small as my room is and based on the reviews I've read and the spec's on velo's web site the dd18 may be overkill? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Kris

always, always, buy one level up than what you think is "ok"

I second the Motion!
Curt

always, always, buy one level up than what you think is "ok"

YES, there is no such thing as overkill. Get the best you can afford, it will save you much $ in the long run. ;)

Hi,
Connect the satellites directly to the receiver. In speaker 'set-up' call all your speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. Set the receiver's crossover at 120hz (or close). In the receiver bring up the volume control for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
Run a 'rca' cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the Velodyne. Use a 'Y' splitter at the Velodyne end into both 'rca' input jacks. Get a long enough cable to place the sub in the corner, if possible. Put the Velodyne's crossover at 200hz, that bypasses the sub's crossover. Keep the volume of the sub below half way.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the reply. If the corner I can have the sub is in the rear, should I still aim to have it in a corner? And what is the best direction it should be facing? I was thinking about having it face the front, this will probably be something I will experiment with once I put everything together. But the dilemma I'm having now is should I aim to have it in a rear corner which I will need a longer cable to get to (>30ft), or should I have it in the front near one of the mains?

And would a Y splitter like this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040107&p_id=2879&seq=1&format=2&style=) work?

Thanks again!

Hi,
Try available corners and use the one that works best. If you have adequate output, you may not need a corner, so experiment with placement. I face the sub toward listening position but that is not critical. You need a flexible 'y' splitter, (1-female, 2-male) not a rigid one like your example. They are about $4. at Radio Shack.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi,
Try available corners and use the one that works best. If you have adequate output, you may not need a corner, so experiment with placement. I face the sub toward listening position but that is not critical. You need a flexible 'y' splitter, (1-female, 2-male) not a rigid one like your example. They are about $4. at Radio Shack.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

This is my first system and it is pretty entry level I think. I'll definitely try with the corner as it is suggested by others for a good starting point to place subs. I'll face it firing sideways towards the seats then. Thanks again Curt.

PS. Thanks for the heads up on the Y splitter. I was wondering if it'd be able to reach both inputs with the fixed splitter. I'll check my local Radioshack.

How does the SPL 1200R compare to the DD-12, not taking into account the EQ software. The reason I say this, is that I already own a SMS-1, so my real choices are to go with the SPL and keep the SMS (and save some money) or go with a DD-12 and sell my SMS-1.

Any help would be great.
Thanks
Greg

How does the SPL 1200R compare to the DD-12, not taking into account the EQ software. The reason I say this, is that I already own a SMS-1, so my real choices are to go with the SPL and keep the SMS (and save some money) or go with a DD-12 and sell my SMS-1.

Any help would be great.
Thanks
Greg

Hi,
IMO, they're close as to output and sonics. The DD will certainly measure better due to servo feed back. If it is strictly high-end audio, I would lean toward the DD. And of course with the DD it's an all-in-one package. If it's primarily H/T and I owned a SMS then I would probably go for the SPL. They are both great subs. Be sure either sub is large enough for your system.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello Curt-

I just got a new DD-12 and I have a strange problem. The sub is making odd noises that have nothing to do with input. In fact, it makes them with nothing but power connected (no other connections at all).

It sounds kind of like a scraping followed by a loud buzz that lasts a few seconds. Sometimes it's just the buzz. It's intermittent so I doubt it's 60Hz hum. At first I thought it was caused by wireless deveices (cell phone, blackberry, wireless interenet) but it does it even when all those things are off or in different rooms.

The Sub is plugged into an elite DM 15 Furman power conditioner (which also powers the receiver, DVD player and Tivo) so I doubt there's a power contamination problem at audio frequencies.

So, I'm assuming that there's some sort of shielding or other problem with the sub and I should just exchange it (bought it a week ago through a B&M so that should be easy enough).

What I'm wondering is if you've seen this problem before and can tell me if

a) Happens once in a while, exchange the sub and I'll be fine or

b) happens once in a while and will happen with all of them (some kind of power or RF noise that the DD-12 can't/doesn't filter) and I need to look at alternatives or

c) never happens and I should exchange the sub and hope for the best...

Thanks.

Adam

Hi adam.
Try two things before exchanging the subwoofer. Plug the DD into a regular AC outlet and do a software reset, 8-9-0 with the remote. I have never heard of this problem, but there are occasional issues with some power conditioner devices. Please let me know the results.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Thanks for the quick reply!

I'll try the SW reset first. plugging in somewhere else is actually a little tricky (conditioner is in a cabinet and difficult to pull out) but I'll try to give that a shot as well. It'll all have to wait until I get home from work... :(

I'll post the results.

Adam

Adam,

Some dimmers also generate noise on some subs. You might want to look around to be sure that you don't have one in a table lamp,etc.

Good point.
Curt

No dimmers in that room (although the power conditioner can dim its LED display...). I assume you mean dimmers on the same circuit?

Also, I can unplug the sub from the power conditioner but not so easily into a completely different circuit. The whole room is the same circuit. I guess for testing I can carry the whole thing (it's heavy!) into a different room...

Also, are the SW reset and replugging the sub directly into AC independent tests or should I do one first?

If sub in different socket works, do I need any surge protection for the sub? What do I use?

Adam

Hi,
Get it to a different AC outlet (without the conditioner) and then do a reset. Dimmers anywhere in the house can be an issue.
Curt

re: SMS-1 ver. 2.12

subsonic filter can be set to 5hz.

will the sweeps and graph also be up to 5hz?
will graph shift to the left and show 5hz up?

Velodyne pulling out of Tweeter? Rumors abound.

re: SMS-1 ver. 2.12

subsonic filter can be set to 5hz.

will the sweeps and graph also be up to 5hz?
will graph shift to the left and show 5hz up?

Hi,
The sweep will still start at 15hz, no difference.
Thanks,
Curt

So I just made an impulse buy, my first subwoofer, on an ebay bid. I bought a Velo CT-100, for $185 shipped. I wasn't sure if I should've done it, since I couldn't find enough info on the sub because its discontinued, but I didn't want to pass the chance by... Can someone please tell me a little about it (and hopefully quell my nervousness)? How does it compare to the newer subs like the DPS-10 or the DLS3750R? How does it compare with other subs I couldve gotten for around $200? Was it a good or bad move?

Please, any info would be helpful.

Curt,

I just got a second HGS15 (already had one) and am short the little feet. Original owner had it on something called a vibropod which for the time being, I think I'm going to pass on.

There doesn't seem to be much to the feet and I was just wondering if there is much point in replacing them on the sub where they're missing. The tiny mounting holes don't seem to leaking air when the sub is playing.

Hi,
It's fine without the little feet.
Curt

No joy. Different outlet, SW reset, still makes niose with no connections other than power. Time to exchange and hope. I'd really like this sub to work, I like the features!

Adam

My 25 year old pre amp has no large or small. It has two main outs. If I run one main out to my power amp and the other to a DD 12's inputs, what is doing the crossover at say 80hz and is the DD 12 then playing 80 and below and my mains playing 80 and above? [This is a 2 channel system.] Second connection set up. If I run one main out from my pre amp to the DD 12 and from the DD 12 out to my power amp, what is doing the crossover set at 80hz and is the DD 12 still handling 80 and below and the mains 80 and above?

Hi,
In your first choice (augmenting), the speakers will play full range and you will set the DD's adjustable low-pass crossover at a frequency to integrate with the speakers natural roll off. In your second choice (crossover) the non adjustable high-pass crossover of the DD (rca output jacks) will be 80hz at 6db per octave. The high-pass crossover (for speakers) is not adjustable, the low-pass crossover (for subwoofer) is adjustable. You will then set the low-pass crossover at 80hz or adjust it to blend with the crossed over speakers. High-pass crossover is what will go to speakers, low-pass crossover is what will go to subwoofer. If this is not clear, call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt, thanks for the great informative phone call yesterday on my DD 12 and Klipsch RF-7 speakers! I'm getting a DLS 5000R to replace my DD 12 based on your comments that the very efficient DLS is a much better match for my efficient RF 7 speakers. My question is, will the DLS more than likely work best in the best location I found for my DD 12? Can I also try both of the connection hook ups that I tried with the DD 12? If the bi-amp was best fo the DD 12 would you expect that connection to be best for the DLS?

What does the wind screen look like. I'm not sure if its already on my mic or not. If its not on there what do they cost? When I sell the 12, I want to have it be perfect.

Hi,
It's a little piece of foam that slips over the end of the mic as I recall. I guess I don't use it.
Regarding your DD-12/Klipsch dilemma, it was also the large room area. I would place the DLS-5000R where the DD sounded good and I recommend the crossover (in and out of the Velodyne) method for your system. Try both and see which you prefer.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

I am finishing my basement. (yay me) it will be sealed, however it will be 3784 cu ft. I have a DD-10 which is increadible for music and not bad for HT in my living which is much smaller and open. I hate to trade in the DD-10 however, would i be able to cover the bass with a dd 12 or dd 15 or should i keep the dd-10 and add another dd 10 or dd 12, 15 for the space? appreciate the input.

also, i have heard a JL 13, it sounded good, but i am so happy with my DD-10, why change? Hopefully, i could just add, or replace with a DD 15 or DD 18 to fill my new theater with that, "holy cow" effect, but, i don't want to lose that DD 10 sound I currently have with my bw 804's it is really, really impressive for music.

thanks for you reply in advance.

edit: did i just add in the second paragraph something about a dd -18? I am a sales guy dream...

Add more DD10's!!

Hi Curt. In our phone call you indicated a DD-12 volume of high teens to 20's with 30 max with my Klipsch RF -7's. Since I can hardly hear the DD 12 at even 30 I tried moving it to 39 in the software set up. I got the test curve looking pretty good. As I now listen at the 39 volume level the RF 7's now sound tinney. Is this why you said 30 was the max "OR", why would 30 be the max? Second Q? I notice the curve for the locked settings to be a bit different when I look at it at some later time. Usually not as good a curve as when I first locked it. What is going on here? Thanks Curt.

When my DLS 5000R arrives I'm going to do comps with the DD 12. Can I try them both in a Daisy chain from the DD 12 also? Can I daisy chain 2 DLS 5000's If I need a second one?

I believe curt will tell you that it's not advisable to use the 5000R and DD subs together ... the 5000R will only mess up the "perfect bass" the DD puts out. :)

you can't daisy chain the DLS-R models, but you can split the LFE input to both.

my opinion starts here:
what is your receiver? perhaps you can use the DLS-R as LFE, then use the DD as a front subwoofer (maybe set the fronts to large with the DD in the mix)

shadenfreude,

do you think 1 more DD-10 would cover the space? I would love to do more than 2, but the wife has her limits. I mean, I would have to put together a power point slide show and sales pitch, with the last picture clearly showing some kind of expensive jewlery.

If I just trade up or add another, I might just get off with a "double secret probation"

thanks for your input on this.

shadenfreude,

do you think 1 more DD-10 would cover the space? I would love to do more than 2, but the wife has her limits. I mean, I would have to put together a power point slide show and sales pitch, with the last picture clearly showing some kind of expensive jewlery.

If I just trade up or add another, I might just get off with a "double secret probation"

thanks for your input on this.

if you don't want to lose the "DD sound", just go for the DD18.

adding another DD10 will increase the headroom/volume ... but your low frequency extension will remain the same.

Curt,

I am finishing my basement. (yay me) it will be sealed, however it will be 3784 cu ft. I have a DD-10 which is increadible for music and not bad for HT in my living which is much smaller and open. I hate to trade in the DD-10 however, would i be able to cover the bass with a dd 12 or dd 15 or should i keep the dd-10 and add another dd 10 or dd 12, 15 for the space? appreciate the input.

also, i have heard a JL 13, it sounded good, but i am so happy with my DD-10, why change? Hopefully, i could just add, or replace with a DD 15 or DD 18 to fill my new theater with that, "holy cow" effect, but, i don't want to lose that DD 10 sound I currently have with my bw 804's it is really, really impressive for music.

thanks for you reply in advance.

edit: did i just add in the second paragraph something about a dd -18? I am a sales guy dream...

Hi,
To do it right, you need a DD-18, much better than two DD-10's
Thanks,
Curt

I have a Velodyne F-1200-B subwoofer. This has worked very well for 14 years. Now, however, it is emitting cracking or crackling noises, almost like firecrackers. I pulled the driver thinking that maybe the foam surround had deteriorated. The surround is in very good condition, but I did notice, what I think, is the problem. At the base of the cone is what I think is called the diaphragm. It is the same diameter as the bottom of the basket. It is an orange colored corrugated material with the inner diameter attached to the cone. The outer edge appears to have a white plastic ring attached to it that I would think should be attached to the basket. However, it is not attached to the basket. With slight pressure applied to the cone to push it out the plastic ring can be seen to move with the cone and lift off the basket. I suspect that the glue has failed here. Does it sound like I am right and if so, how can this be repaired? If it can't be repaired do I need a new driver and can Velodyne supply one (and at what cost)?

TIA

Rich

Hi,
There are no driver's or driver parts for the F series (or ULD's). Tomorrow, contact Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2800, ext. 3851 about possible options.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141