* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * [Text View] - Page 14

robc40x

04-02-07, 07:53 PM

Thanks Curt,
Below is part of a earlier post I made and have received a lot of good information. It may come down to the SLP 1200r or the B & W ASW 750. The 750 has 12" drive 1000 watts and a larger heavier box. I have demoed it, great tight base. I have not found a SLP 1200r to demo yet. I do like all of it's great features and smaller size. It may be a better HT sub, provided it would hold up. I checked the SUBWOOFER SELECTION WIZARD, looks like the 1200r would fill the room okay.
Thanks Rob

See below:

I need a new sub. My Velodyne DPS 10 is going to my son's townhouse.

I have been researching subs for about a month now and I want to make the move. I need some input. $1200.00 is all I have set a side but I'm sure you all know how that goes, if I look hard enough I may find a little more, always a little more.(it's an illness)

Then there's the WAF (wife approval factor) any sub larger than the one I have now, out to the garage I go speakers and all. The dogs and I will be enjoying INXS Live baby Live in the cold. The wife says "No one has 6 speakers in there den like that, and pointed right my L830's on my beautiful 36" oak stands stated firmly that's ridicules." And I said in my little mouse voice " all my friends at work have nicer HT rooms and bigger speakers than me."

Okay which sub is it going to be?

The B & W ASW 750 comes in walnut that matches my L-220's. looks and sounds good (very tight) I don't believe the ASW 750 gives as much bang for the buck or is as sophisticated as the Velo DD10. So the DD-10 is the right size and power but the $$$. What about the Velo SPR 1200r don't know much about the SPR series. I have seen posted about some problems with the MiniVee (same family) not holding up.

How would the Velodyne DD-10 compare to the Velodyne SPL1200R ?

I have see a lot of great stuff posted about SVS subs. I would consider the SB 12 plus if I could just demo it first. I don't know if it would have the power I'm looking for.. The PB 12 plus. It has everything I'm looking for (great value) it's just to big.

This is what I have. My den/ AV room is about 1600 cu. ft.
60% movies 40% music.

Denon AVR-3805
Mains JBL L-220
Center JBL EC 35
Rear Surrounds JBL L-830
Sub Velodyne DPS 10

curt c

04-02-07, 08:32 PM

Hi,
I would suggest you find the time and effort, if possible to audition the Velodyne's. One of the issues is efficiency match. You have large JBL efficient (bass reflex) design speakers. The natural match would be something from the DLS series. If your total cubic displacement is about 1600 cubic feet, then the SPL-1200R should do quite well. The SPL-1200R will have more output than the DD-10. As to sound quality, as I've said before they are close and both are the finest sounding small subwoofers available, IMO. I don't know anything about the B&W. I would be happy to talk at length about this if you want to give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Spezzy

04-02-07, 09:42 PM

Hello curt,
I recieved my amp back from you guys and the sub sounds better than it did before. I'm glad I have a new amp back, but I would like to know why it would die all of a sudden. It worked fine the previous night I used it, then in the morning it doesn't? I would like a somewhat more detailed explanation than "its pretty common"..

curt c

04-02-07, 10:16 PM

I sent you a PM with contact information regarding your amplifier.
Curt

zuzu

04-03-07, 12:12 PM

Am I correct in thinking I can bi-amp my DLS 5000R? If so , since I am passing all frequencies to the sub and all above 80Hz from the sub to my power amp and on to main speakers, don't I need a higher quality interconnect than when normally sending just low frequency to a sub?

smc

04-03-07, 12:51 PM

Curt,

Do you have a suggestion which is the best way to use the F1200-B with the new Yamaha RX-V2700. I used to have a Yamaha 3090 that I had the sub getting the signal from the pre-out. That option is not available anymore on the 2700. Thanks for your help.

curt c

04-03-07, 01:40 PM

Hi,
Yes the option is there, just different. Run a 'rca' cable from the sub-out jack of your receiver to the subwoofer. At the sub end attach a 'Y' splitter and put into the two input jacks. Program your speaker's as 'small' in the receiver and indicate you have a subwoofer. Call me if you need more help.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

smc

04-03-07, 04:30 PM

Thanks for the fast response, I will do that when I get home.

zuzu

04-05-07, 02:35 PM

If I turn the volume way down on the DD 12. can I use it to set up the DLS 5000R? I have two main outs on my pre amp.

curt c

04-05-07, 03:14 PM

Hi,
No, that will not work. The DD can only EQ itself. If you want to have the computer capability of the DD for the DLS you would need to purchase the outboard SMS-1. I Suggest you call me.
Curt (480) 595-7141

adamCS

04-08-07, 09:04 PM

Hello Curt-

I just got a new DD-12 and I have a strange problem. The sub is making odd noises that have nothing to do with input. In fact, it makes them with nothing but power connected (no other connections at all).

It sounds kind of like a scraping followed by a loud buzz that lasts a few seconds. Sometimes it's just the buzz. It's intermittent so I doubt it's 60Hz hum. At first I thought it was caused by wireless deveices (cell phone, blackberry, wireless interenet) but it does it even when all those things are off or in different rooms.

The Sub is plugged into an elite DM 15 Furman power conditioner (which also powers the receiver, DVD player and Tivo) so I doubt there's a power contamination problem at audio frequencies.

So, I'm assuming that there's some sort of shielding or other problem with the sub and I should just exchange it (bought it a week ago through a B&M so that should be easy enough).

What I'm wondering is if you've seen this problem before and can tell me if

a) Happens once in a while, exchange the sub and I'll be fine or

b) happens once in a while and will happen with all of them (some kind of power or RF noise that the DD-12 can't/doesn't filter) and I need to look at alternatives or

c) never happens and I should exchange the sub and hope for the best...

Thanks.

Adam

Exchanged it and the new one works fine. You could actually reproduce the noise by tapping the sub enclosure. Probably a loose connection. Sub is on its way back to you and I am happily listening to a new one. I will have to learn how to eq it right...

Thanks for the help.

Adam

bradleycox

04-08-07, 10:53 PM

I have a 7 year old HGS-15 that I purchased new that has started making a popping noise at moderate levels. I first noticed it on U571 during the depth charge scene. It is very loud and sounds like a combination of rattling and distortion. It does not sound like something is loose like the amp plate more like distortion from the amp or driver.
Bradley

curt c

04-09-07, 09:38 AM

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service @velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

kryptonite

04-10-07, 02:02 PM

Curt,

It appears that you reccomend to set your surrounds to "small" when you have the Front Row Series, is that correct?

I have an Onkyo 674

Thanks!

curt c

04-10-07, 02:15 PM

kryptonite

04-10-07, 06:19 PM

Hi,
Yes designate them as 'small', they were not designed to take full range signals. If available, the best crossover point to be selected in the receiver is 120hz or close to that.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt, excuse my ignorance here, but you mean to set each individual speaker to 120hz, correct? There is an option to do in the speaker set up of my 674.

curt c

04-10-07, 06:25 PM

Hi,
All speakers 'small' and all at or near 120hz for the receiver's crossover.
Curt

vvv

04-11-07, 11:58 PM

Hi Curt,

As a proud owner of a DD-18, I tend to recommend Velodyne subs to my friends. I have yet to find one that I didn't like.

In any case, I noticed that Velodyne now offers a MiniVee 10.

How does the MiniVee 10 compare to a SPL 10 or a DD 10?

What is the MSRP of the MiniVee 10 vs. the SPL 10 and DD 10?

Most of my friends are looking for subs that do not take up much real estate so 12 inch and below seems to be a popular size.

By the way, I have a buddy that recently bought a SPL1200R and is using it in a 7,000 cubic foot loft apartment. The thing sounds surprisingly powerful and very clean at moderate volume levels.

TuanP

04-12-07, 10:28 AM

Whose has the best price for a SPL1200R?

Thanks.

JC32

04-12-07, 02:36 PM

Going to build a home theatre system. All I have heard and read is that Velodyne is the best sub!!!! I have a very large room!! What size and model sub should I be looking at?? Money is an issue!! The main use will be for movies!!! Thanks for the help in advance!!! By the way it says a lot for Velodyne that you guys do this!!

JC

curt c

04-12-07, 10:30 PM

Hi,
I'm off for a couple of days. Check out www.velodyne.com then 'which product' and then 'wizard'. It will guide you in the right direction. Our 'bang for the buck' big sub is the DLS-5000R. You can certainly give me a call on Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

WonHung

04-13-07, 08:44 PM

Hi Curt,

If you happen to log on over the weekend, I have an issue with the amp plate I received back from repair. I had sent in my old HGS15 amp plate after it failed on me about a month ago. I picked up the new amp plate today from the dealer. Everything seems to be working fine except now the sub doesn't respond to the IR remote. Is there a quick fix for this or do I have a bad amp plate with respect to the IR functionality.

Thanks.

curt c

04-13-07, 10:21 PM

Hi,
On Monday, contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2800, ext. 3851. Do make sure your batteries in the remote are good.
Thanks,
Curt

WonHung

04-14-07, 10:21 AM

Thanks Curt for your reply. I did verify I have fresh batteries in the remote. I double checked the connectors at the small pc board and still no go. I call in on Monday to see what to do next.

JimP

04-17-07, 04:23 PM

Curt,

I've been comparing SMS-1 charts on my dual HGS-15s.

The first one is based on the SMS-1's frequency sweep generator. It show a very steep dropoff below 20hz.

The second one is based on the subwoofer level generator in my B&K ref 50 preamp for the sub channel. As you can see, it doesn't show nearly the dropoff.

Question. Does the frequency sweep on the SMS-1 start off lower in volume which would account for the low below 20 hz readings? or is it broken?

Just to be verify that my preamp wasn't causing this, I looped the equalizer out to the lfe in on the SMS-1.

curt c

04-17-07, 06:23 PM

Hi,
You cannot use any other signal sweep or pink noise generator, other than the SMS's (or DD's) to track response on the SMS's screen. The way the SMS and DD works, is that the sweep tone generates a particular frequency. The sweep "cursor" on the screen then listens to the intensity response of the mic and plots it at that point (or frequency). The SMS or DD sweep is a single frequency at a time generator, not a pink noise spectrum analyzer-like plotter. Hope this helps. If not, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

xtc007

04-19-07, 03:34 PM

hi Curt,
I am from Hong Kong and hope you can understand what I am going to say.
I have been a Velodyne user for many years since the days of the HGS series. Recently, I upgraded from DD10 to DD15. The overall performance of the DD15 is good. However, I found that the woover is equpped with "flat" toes instead of the DD10's "spike/cone- shaped" toes. Today, I put 3 cone-shaped vibration isolators under the DD15 and the bass has obviously become much more solid. Can you pls tell me what is the reason to use "flat" toes on the DD15 ?? thx.

curt c

04-19-07, 04:29 PM

Hi,
As you see the DD's are equipped to handle spikes, cones etc. I generally get the best response and performance with the sub flat to the floor. There is no one correct answer so go with what works best for you.
Thanks,
Curt

xtc007

04-20-07, 04:12 PM

hi Curt,
thx for yr immediate reply.
I fully agree that there is no one correct answer on either using cones or flat. But there must be a reason for Velodyne to decide what toes to go with their woofers.
My DD10 came with cones. I don't know whether if the current produced DD10's are still equipped with cones. If they are, I wonder if it is correct to say that, from the point of Velodyne people, the best performance of DD10's are on cones and DD15's are flat on floor.
By the way, I fully agree to what you say about no one correct answer on using cones or flat.

curt c

04-20-07, 10:32 PM

Hi,
There is no official viewpoint at Velodyne regarding the use of feet, spikes or cones. The ones we select for each unit are primarily for convenience and cosmetics. The threads are standard to the industry and so those who choose to experiment are free to do so. It's like the 'cable-wire' issue, different strokes for different folks. You found a good solution for your system and that's what it's all about.
Thanks,
Curt

xtc007

04-21-07, 07:33 AM

got it. thx curt. have a nice weekend.

trogstad

04-25-07, 11:57 AM

I finally spent the $$ that I don't really have and got my prized DD-15. However, it hisses (sounds like "SHHHHHHHH") right out of the box (regardless of whether the input is present or not...in other words, only the power cable is plugged in.) Even my wife was bugged by it, so it's pretty noticeable. Has anyone had a similar situation, and know of a cure? It's a little discouraging to spring for this and then have it not work.

Regards,
Tim

curt c

04-25-07, 01:30 PM

Hi,
Have you tried a software reset (8-9-0, see manual)? I would try that first. Since the hiss is certainly not normal you can have the dealer exchange it. If you have questions, please call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

lcef

04-26-07, 10:56 AM

Hi Curt,

I recently bougth the 3750 and a Denon 1907 receiver from a local shop here in MA. Whenever I turn on or off the receiver the sub "thumps" fairly loud, more so when turning off. The local shop has given me a new sub to try and still the same "thump". Have you seen this issue before? I have the sub connected to the reciever with a single monster subwoofer cable.

Thanks,

lcef

curt c

04-26-07, 12:14 PM

Hi,
My guess is the receiver or something connected to it is sending out a thump at on/off. The sub will play what it receives. I suggest you hook it up to another receiver or preamp if you have one available to verify this, or take the sub to your dealer and have him hook it up to a receiver there.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

dmorse4765

04-26-07, 12:41 PM

According to the Outlaw guide, when setting up the SMS the first time it say's to set the front speaker level to about 80 db. Should you set the speakers to large or small even though they always are set to small? Then adjust the volume om the sms to match. I would guess they should be set to small however I have been wrong many times before. thx

curt c

04-26-07, 12:55 PM

Hi,
If you normally have your speakers at 'small', then 'small' is correct for SMS set-up.
Call me if you have questions.
Curt (480) 595-7141

benchlegs

04-26-07, 05:48 PM

VRP 1200 problem.
I'm using a Pioneer 1015TX. The problem is I'm having to set the receiver to +5 db AND the sub to 2:00 position to get some decent bass. My xover is set to 80 on the receiver and turned all the way up on the sub. Speakers are all set to "small". What am I doing wrong?

curt c

04-26-07, 05:59 PM

Hi,
You may need a larger subwoofer.
For the VRP series;
1) Raise the volume in your receiver for the subwoofer jack to near maximum.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
3) Put phase at '0'.
4) Locate subwoofer in a corner and away from any openings.
5) Keep the subwoofer volume at less than half way.
The important item you didn't mention is room size plus any openings to other rooms in cubic feet. See www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and 'wizard'. Follow instructions for 'subwoofer recommendations', or call me.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

benchlegs

04-26-07, 06:51 PM

Thanks Curt
I am using a "Y" splitter and the phase is set at "O". Are you suggesting I put the sub volume at +10db (maximum for the 1015TX) and lower the sub's amplifier to less than 12:00? The room is approximately 15' x 25' with 8' ceilings.

curt c

04-26-07, 08:23 PM

Hi,
Yes put the receiver at '10' and keep the sub below 12:00 o'clock. The sub is marginal for that size room, especially if there are any permanent openings to other areas. Making the above changes will hopefully make a difference. Corner location is also important.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

ribbit

04-27-07, 02:50 AM

I know this is very lazy of me but I'm at work right now,

what are the differences between the SPL800i and Minivee? (is this just a 110v - 230v version?)

what are the differences between the SPL800i and SPL800-R? (is the SPL800i a no autoEQ version of the SPL-R? - are there other differences?)

doesn't the SPL800i have servo control? does that mean it has more distortion? (what % rating?)

curt c

04-27-07, 01:35 PM

Hi,
The SPL-800i is the 220 volt version of the MiniVee-8. Neither have the DSP and remote features of the SPL-R series. They would all have about the same distortion measurements. The DD series have accelerometer servo feedback, the SPL's do not.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

ribbit

04-27-07, 10:53 PM

thanks Curt, I saw this on the SPL-R specs ... what does it do?

Digital Dynamic Driver Control with Current-Sensing Servo: Yes

curt c

04-28-07, 12:15 PM

Hi,
In short, after over twenty years of servo feed-back technology we can predict with close accuracy what the servo feed-back system would be doing under given conditions. With the SPL series we developed a six stage gain stage to closely emulate the accelerometer servo system of the DD's and previous Velodyne subwoofers. By knowing the impedance and current draw you can engineer accordingly. That's what we refer to as 'Dynamic Driver Control with Current-Sensing Servo. It's what makes the SPL's sound so special.
Curt (480) 595-7141

ribbit

04-28-07, 07:58 PM

curt c

04-28-07, 08:15 PM

Yes they do.
Curt

ribbit

04-29-07, 08:50 AM

thanks again curt!

zuzu

04-29-07, 10:38 AM

As you may recall I now have the 5000R and just hooked it up, for the first time, to my pre amp which has 2 main outs. [21 yr old ARC SP 11] No sub out connection. The pre main out to the subs in sounds fantastic with my Klipsch RF 7's. As you may also recall my original DD 12 was a Klipsch mis match. All your advice has worked great. Thanks. For a comparision I tried to bi amp my set up. Pre main out to sub in and sub out to power amp in L/R to RF 7's. With the volume on the pre amp at zero the sound was unbearably loud. Scared the crap out of me when I unmuted the pre amp. What do you suppose is going on in this set up?

curt c

04-29-07, 11:10 AM

Hi,
I don't understand. Sound loud at zero? What's loud, the speakers or the sub? Where's the sub volume at? I suggest you call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

benchlegs

04-30-07, 09:59 PM

To Curt C:
Thanks for the help. I set the receivers DB gain at +10 and turned down the VRP 1200's amp to around 11:00. It sounds great! In hindsite, I think I need a bigger sub as I measured the room and it is 17' x 24' x 8' but the 1200 will do for a while.
Funny side note...the reciever seems to run much cooler than before...an added plus. Thank you again for your help.

stormgreggan

05-01-07, 12:28 AM

Hi,

I have a ULD-18 series 2 (circa 1991) and am looking for a formula to find what resistor value I need for the resistor DIP socket to program the crossover. My mains are solid down to 50 Hz possibly lower and have much more kick than the ULD would above 50. I believe it's crossed at 85 Hz currently but I would actually like to experiment to find the best x-over to avoid cancellation issues, etc.

Does anyone have this formula? Would it be similar to the crossover in the Audio Control Richter Scale III? I have one of those too. :)

Thanks!

curt c

05-01-07, 08:45 AM

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851.
They have the information.
Thanks,
Curt

zuzu

05-02-07, 07:11 AM

I had the sub connected to a tape out rather than main out on my SP 11 pre amp. Stupid!!! The 2 outputs are right beside each other. The tape out bypasses the mute button with full volume hence the loud response and the hearing the sub play when in mute and volume at zero. Thanks Curt, for all your help again, and answering my series of other questions. The bi amp sounds better than the augmentation hook up.

curt c

05-02-07, 08:51 AM

Thanks for the feedback and good news.
Curt

ribbit

05-03-07, 02:31 AM

Curt, since the Minivee now has a 10" version, will the SPLi series also have a 10"er?

curt c

05-03-07, 12:04 PM

Hi,
There will not be a 230 volt version of the MiniVee-10.
Thanks,
Curt

zuzu

05-13-07, 08:19 AM

When the stereo is turned on, does the sub need a low base signal to light the light. Music with no base does not light the light. If I hit up or down volume, on the remote, it lights. Is this normal? I have the latest 2007 DLS 5000.

curt c

05-13-07, 08:39 AM

Hi,
Yes in the 'auto-active' mode a bass signal is required to turn the light on, or a remote command. This is normal.
Thanks,
Curt

robbie99

05-16-07, 07:26 AM

is this thread still active? still official velodyne support thread? recently encountered problems with my 12 year old ULD12 sub - it began "popping" repeatedly when the power is turned on - the usual initial power 'ON' pop, but doesn't stop - losing this thing would be huge loss! :( I love the thing! - anyone offer me any help or suggestions?
robbie99

curt c

05-16-07, 08:54 AM

Hi,
For service and repair, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851. Some repairs may be possible on your ULD.
Thanks,
Curt

mountainmn

05-20-07, 05:10 AM

Hi,

I'm new to this forum - found it while searching for help with a problem I'm having. Hope to get some advice here on how to proceed.

I own a Velodyne SPL 1200 which I have enjoyed very much. Was sitting down to watch a tv show last night and enjoy the sound. Noticed however that the bass I am accustomed to hearing was missing, having been replaced by an intermittent rattle. Not a good thing! I checked the connections and the settings and they seemed to be OK. Asked one of my kids and they said they turned the sound system on and it came on at VERY high volume, almost painful. Uh-oh. So I'm suspecting something (voice coil, amp or both) is fried. Inspection of the speaker shows the cone intact, so whatever damage there is must be inside.

Long story short - is there (a) any good way to verify what's wrong, (b) any idea on what a ballpark cost might be to have it repaired and (c) any good suggestions on where that might be done?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I miss this puppy and want to get it back in my system ASAP!

curt c

05-20-07, 02:22 PM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service on Monday at (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851, or service@velodyne.com. They can answer your questions and repair your unit.
Curt

antman27

05-21-07, 11:48 AM

lstarks

05-21-07, 08:35 PM

curt c

05-21-07, 08:58 PM

Hello Curt , I am debating getting 2 subs for my room
The room is 13 x 25 and opens up into a 12x 12 room with a 6ft opening
The sub I am running now with a SMS1 does not blend well with my system - There is a lack of lows with Music NOT HT . Music if I turn up my sub gets to direcitonal -I can tell its coming from the front right of the room
I am thinking of 2 small subs with a SMS1 on each side of my TV stand
What are your thoughts Could I use 2 SPL8s Or would I need the SPL10 OR even the 12 ?
Thanks for your thoughts

Hi,
My first choice would be a SC-1250 amp driving two SC-12 passive subs. (See website for Sub Contractor series) Second choice would be two SPL-1200R's or a SC-1250 amp driving two SC-10 passive subs. I'm on vacation this week but feel free to call me next week at my new phone number.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c

05-21-07, 09:07 PM

I am looking at getting either Velodyne SPL-1500R or DD-15.

After reading the manuals it seems to me that:
1) I could use either sub as a high pass crossover at 80Hz so that my main speakers don't see the lower frequencies.
2) The DD series has a through put for daisy chaining a second sub, but the SPL only has high pass output so no daisy chain capability. The SPL cannot be daisy chained????
3) The DD is more expensive and has better sound and more options.

Can anyone verify whether conclusions 1 and 2 above are correct?

Hi,
You are correct on all three observations. You too, might want to look at the SC series where one amp drives one or two of our passive SC series subwoofers. For instance, you might start with the SC-1250 amplifier and one SC-15 subwoofer and add a second SC-15 subwoofer later, if needed. I suggest you give me a call next week if you have the chance.
Thanks,
Curt (curt@velodyne.com) or (928) 858-4430

Warpdrv

05-25-07, 11:41 PM

Hey there curt...

I finally received my Velodyne SMS-1, but I seem to be having some trouble..
I went through the install, and got the main screen on my TV....
Setup the mic, and connected my 2 subs to the unit with the LFE out of receiver to SMS.
But Im having problems.
When I press 321 I get the sweep tones starting at @ 15hz with sound...
When I press 12345, I get a flat line on the bottom of the scale with no sound output at all.
See pics...
Seems in manual setup there are no tones....
Not sure what to do here..

Thanks

Patrick

cjwhitehouse

05-26-07, 04:01 AM

When you use Self-EQ, the sweeps come directly out of the LFE output from the SMS-1. When you use the Manual and Auto EQ modes, the signal comes out of the "EQ Output" socket on the SMS-1. Do you have this connected to a spare analogue input on your receiver in a mode which has bass-management engaged so that the signal ends up coming out of your receiver's LFE output and back to the SMS-1 and the sub? ;)

Warpdrv

05-26-07, 08:46 AM

Thanks for the reply cjwhitehouse

I am at work, and will double check the connections when I get home, but I moved it from CD to video, on the receiver - and got the same results...

I would have to bet that it would be a connection on my part that Im not getting right... :confused: As I didn't have alot of time last night... :(

Warp

Vidmaven

05-26-07, 01:10 PM

curt c

05-26-07, 02:04 PM

I just inherited a Velodyne sub model #SF15VBR10. From what I can gather it's a 15" servo contolled sub with it's own remote that powers the unit on and off, controls the volume and mutes and has a button in between the volume buttons that I'm not quite sure what it does yet.

I searched Velodyne's website but I can't find any info on this model. The sub was made in '96 but was barely used at all (IT LOOKS BRAND NEW!). I'm hoping someone on here may have some more info for me or direct me to somewhere where I can find the info. Thanks.

Hi,
What you have, appears to be a F-1500R. It is servo, with 250 watts and F/R 18-120hz. As with all the F-series, they were designed for accuracy rather than high output, so be careful with H/T in a large room or open area. Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs and keep the sub's volume below half way. If more volume is needed raise the subwoofer jack's volume control in the receiver. The volume on the remote will take it up or down about 6db from the setting on the rear of the sub. The middle button will default (volume) back to the sub's setting. If you need more info call me Tuesday.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Vidmaven

05-26-07, 06:29 PM

Hi,
What you have, appears to be a F-1500R. It is servo, with 250 watts and F/R 18-120hz. As with all the F-series, they were designed for accuracy rather than high output, so be careful with H/T in a large room or open area. Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs and keep the sub's volume below half way. If more volume is needed raise the subwoofer jack's volume control in the receiver. The volume on the remote will take it up or down about 6db from the setting on the rear of the sub. The middle button will default (volume) back to the sub's setting. If you need more info call me Tuesday.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Thanks Curt. Appreciate the info. Already have the "Y" splitter in place from my previous Velodyne VA10/12x. When you say the middle button will default back to the sub's setting do you mean where I set it originally or is there an internal default setting? The sub is going into some kind of protection/overload I think. The green power light started flashing green and then it sounded like the sub would reset itself. When I turned the volume down below the 12:00 position it stopped doing this.

Warpdrv

05-26-07, 06:54 PM

Cool.... Just as I thought... I had it hooked up to the wrong output on the Velo.

Ran through some simple dialing in... and OH MY LORD !!!!!

I only had a few peaks and dips, but now after setup, Im Flat, not ruler flat, but DAM... If this EQ doesn't work slick... I'll have to figure out all those other things on the 2nd page...

Is there a more thorough explanation of all those settings somewhere...?

Bass Impact has already improved quite a bit... Impressive.. :)

Warp

ribbit

05-26-07, 08:33 PM

warpdrive,

http://pdf.outlawaudio.com/outlaw/docs/sms1guide.pdf

I think you are supposed to fix the phase, positive and negative settings BEFORE you mess with the EQ

Warpdrv

05-26-07, 11:24 PM

warpdrive,

http://pdf.outlawaudio.com/outlaw/docs/sms1guide.pdf

I think you are supposed to fix the phase, positive and negative settings BEFORE you mess with the EQ

Awesome..... thanks a ton for that... I forgot about that guide, I saw it before I bought the SMS....

Got alot of ground to cover....

Warp

Djoel

05-28-07, 08:28 PM

curt c

05-28-07, 08:52 PM

Djoel

05-28-07, 09:14 PM

Hi,
Yes, way too hot. Turn the volume on the SMS all the way down and turn the volume of your main speakers down so the speaker sweep is in the middle of the screen (about 76 or so) and then you can bring the volume of the SMS up to about the same level as the main speakers. Now you can start the EQ process. You won't be able to eq that dip at 125hz as the SMS will only eq up to 110hz. The dip isn't very bad, so not to worry.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am going to start a clean slate,I've played with setting,and change so hz ,db, but the Gf needs to be out of here..Complain.complain,complain....

I am assuming I can call you???

Thanks

Daniel

curt c

05-28-07, 09:53 PM

Yes, you can call me tomorrow. BTW, you can reset the software to factory settings by pushing 8-9-0 on the remote.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Djoel

05-28-07, 10:10 PM

Yes, you can call me tomorrow. BTW, you can reset the software to factory settings by pushing 8-9-0 on the remote.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Your a life saver Curt :)

Djoel

kaartinen1

05-29-07, 02:11 PM

Hi,
I have a fsr-10 sub and the remote control is not working anymore. I changed the batteries, you can here a click from the sub when you try to turn it on. Otherwise sub works fine.
Thanks

curt c

05-29-07, 02:25 PM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Warpdrv

05-29-07, 02:30 PM

Warp glad you got your sms,I stop playing with mine I am wait for a friend to pop up any day now....doubt it though. :o :(
Cheers
Daniel

Thanks Daniel..... My son was out of town and I did some minor messing with it, and got it sounding really, really nice... When he came back, he said... what happened to the bass....? Its sounds so much better, and way more impact...

:) One happy camper, and I haven't even tweaked it yet.....

Thanks Velodyne.. :)

Djoel

05-29-07, 03:02 PM

Thanks Daniel..... My son was out of town and I did some minor messing with it, and got it sounding really, really nice... When he came back, he said... what happened to the bass....? Its sounds so much better, and way more impact...

:) One happy camper, and I haven't even tweaked it yet.....

Thanks Velodyne.. :)

Hey Patrick

It's really allot fun to manipulate these thing for sure, and noddle of possibilities.

Now all I need is time to play with it....

Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Very true thanks to Velodyne.

Cheers

Daniel

EM3

05-29-07, 05:01 PM

Has anbyone tried this subwoofer Velodyne 10" DPS-Series Subwoofer I can buy it at CC.

I have been looking at subs ang I have narrowed it down between this and an HSU but for the space I have this one will fit better. My living room is 13 by 19 long and 8ft ceilings. I use it for about 75 percent movies and 25 percent music. The HSU goes deeper but I will have to rearrange things if I get the 2.3. Any reviews on this Velodyne or printed reviews? Please help because I don't have the patience to read over 3000 posts.

Thanks.

Djoel

05-29-07, 10:25 PM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey Curt I had along day at work,do you think it's possible for me to contact you later in the week?
I get half day on Fridays.....Let me know if your ok with that.

Djoel

curt c

05-29-07, 11:41 PM

Sure, plan to be here all day Friday.
Curt

amansker

05-30-07, 06:47 PM

HGS12BG
Serial: 59243002
Build date: 8/31/99

This sub has a hum issue. At 3’ the hum is 60db. Listening seat is 10’ and hum is always clearly audible. It does not change with volume on the sub or source components. If I touch the crossover knob, the hum changes in frequency a bit, but volume is about the same. Touching the crossover knob ALWAYS varies the sound.

I have swapped out 3 power cables – all 3 prong that connect to the two prongs on the sub receptacle.

Tried numerous outlets on different circuit breakers.

Used two power conditioners.

Two sets of interconnects.

Results are identical with or without interconnects connected. With interconnects removed, plug in sub and it is silent for 10 seconds. Then there is a 50% chance it will start hum on its own. If not, the hum will start with any of these actions:

Rock volume or crossover pot.
Sometimes just touching the crossover knob.
Switch any of the switches in any direction except for the power.
Connect interconnects and play music.

The hum does not stop until the power cable is unplugged.

I see many others have struggled with this issue. Do you have a solution?

Thanks for your help.
Andy

curt c

05-30-07, 06:59 PM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851. You will need to send in the amplifier for repair. I have several HGS's and all are very quiet. Your unit is almost eight years old and there have been amplifier updates which can be applied to your unit.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

ninja12

05-30-07, 10:24 PM

This is the first time I rand the sweep what does this mean??? Too hot?? :confused:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s57/djoeltaveras/HDDVD049.jpg

Warp glad you got your sms,I stop playing with mine I am wait for a friend to pop up any day now....doubt it though. :o :(

Cheers

Daniel

Curt,

I have the DD-18, and that's how my graph looks on preset 5. So, should I deviate from the manual for preset 5 since it's too hot?

curt c

05-31-07, 11:56 AM

Curt,

I have the DD-18, and that's how my graph looks on preset 5. So, should I deviate from the manual for preset 5 since it's too hot?

Hi,
If you're attempting to do an EQ for preset 5 rather than global, you need to reduce the volume as I gave in the previous answer. You want the sweep in the middle of the screen, not at the top and above. Mute the DD and bring the volume down on your receiver to start the process. Check the 'set-up' menu and see if the volume for preset 5 is higher than the others. Call me if you can.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Djoel

06-01-07, 06:36 PM

Hey Curt just got off the phone with you about 1/2 hour ago or so. Allot is illuminated, I'll posts some pictures of my self EQ results. It seem I have some peeks going on in the 50HZ and 60 range. But I am plenty tame from before,not as hot....All I have to say is what a wonderful tool this is..

Thanks you'll hear from me soon.

Daniel from NYC where we leave bodies laying around ;)

Djoel

Warpdrv

06-01-07, 08:14 PM

Well lets let me show you what my new toy has done for my system so far...
The SMS is installed with a SVS Plus/2 and Plus with a 20hz tune in my 8200 cu. ft great room, I have no bass traps. Totally adjusted for polarity, phase and the rest of the settings on the second page..
Simply amazing.... almost ruler flat.. :)
Any suggestions would be great...

Warp

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d109/Warpdrv/HT-Great%20Room/HTPics014.jpg

Djoel

06-02-07, 12:01 PM

Warpdrv

06-02-07, 01:39 PM

If you do...make sure you adjust the Q setting to a good high number to spread out the effected area, and you should be fine....
The goal here is to reduce the highs and not raise the lows... I had to go up with my 47hz, but Im pretty happy with the results.. :)

take your time... you can adjust things on the second page, and then hit test to see the results. Also you can try to adjust the phase on your sub watching in real time... :)

Warp

Mixdoctor

06-03-07, 02:41 PM

I bought a pair of DD12's last week. They are nice and tight and good output for their small size, but I would like a smoother sound. I am wondering whether a single DD15 or DD18 would be better than dual DD12's ? I generally prefer duals subs, but I know that Dual DD15's or DD18's would be overkill. This will be primarily for HT.

curt c

06-03-07, 02:54 PM

Mixdoctor

06-03-07, 03:17 PM

Hi,
Not sure what you mean by a 'smoother' sound. Integration? Output? Frequency response? You don't mention total cubic displacement of the sound room and any other openings as explained on our website. Personally, I (usually) prefer larger subs especially for H/T. If possible, I suggest you give me a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

By smoother I mean not punchy. I feel the DD12's are sometimes producing to much of the impact of the bass and not the harmonics, if that make sense. Almost as if with their small size they are trying to do too many frequencies, and high spl.

Would a single DD15 be a match for two DD-12's? I am sure a DD18 would be.

curt c

06-03-07, 03:50 PM

Mixdoctor

06-03-07, 04:56 PM

Hi,
As to output, a DD-15 is more or less the equivalent of a pair of DD-12's with deeper extension. If your total area is over 3500 cubic feet, I would recommend the DD-18 which has even deeper extension and much more reserve. On a DD the signal sweep will indicate what frequencies are being reproduced at what amplitude. Did you do manual eq's on the DD-12's? Were you able to get +/- 3db?
Curt

I did the auto eq, but because of my room the eq couldn't get the subs totally flat. The deep end around 25 hz is relatively flat to about 60Hz where it starts dipping off.
My room is about 3600 cu ft, but spl isn't much of a consideration(I don't listen at reference levels), but deep extension and smoothness are.

curt c

06-03-07, 06:41 PM

Mixdoctor

06-04-07, 03:29 AM

Hi,
Do you mean 'self-eq' (3-2-1) or true auto-eq? You don't need to be totally flat. Where are your crossovers set at, in both your receiver/prepro and the DD? If your room has no permanent openings then either the DD-15 or DD-18 will do fine. The DD-18 has the best extension and lowest distortion.
Curt

I used the auto eq. My crossover was set at 70, but I have just set it to 80Hz on both receiver and sub.

For me the difference would be $1,000 between the DD15 an DD18, don't know if the DD18 is worth that much more ?

curt c

06-04-07, 09:18 AM

Hi,
Moving the crossover up to 80hz is a good idea. I would also try manual-eq with parametric flexibility regarding your 60hz roll off.
Curt (928)858-4430

Brent Hutto

06-06-07, 10:07 PM

We use a CT-100 as our home theater subwoofer, it's been connected to an Onkyo 575X receiver for five years until this past Monday. A nearby lightning strike sent a surge in on the cable-TV line which fried the cable company's splitters, their DVR box and also caused the Onkyo to quit putting out sound (and it would smell toasty after running a few minutes, too).

So today I installed an Onkyo TX-SR505 replacement and everything works fine...except the Velodyne. It won't auto-trigger and power up and if I turn it on manually no sound comes out. I tried feeding it the receiver's sub pre-out as well as line-level audio from two other devices. Nothing.

When I rotate the volume control on the subwoofer I can hear a bit of potentiometer noise scratch. So I think the power amp is working fine. It must be the pre-in circuit that's fried. The coax running from receiver to subwoofer was laying right alongside the receiver's power cord so there was plenty of opportunity for coupling. The sub and receiver share a substantial surge suppressor along with the other HT gear but I think the surge came in from the other end.

How do I find a local repair shop? Or can I send just the electronics subunit back to Velodyne. I'd rather let the insurance company buy another sub than have to pack this heavy thing up and send it back intact.

curt c

06-06-07, 10:19 PM

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851.
Curt (928) 858-4430

delusive1

06-09-07, 01:16 AM

I have a DPS model and it shuts off after 15 min of no useage. When I returned home today after work I noticed that the sub felt "warm" the back heat sinks. Like it was on the whole time I was away but the LEDs where off. What gives? Should I return it?

Thanks

curt c

06-09-07, 09:25 AM

Hi,
It's in the auto on/off mode which means it goes into 'standby' after 15 minutes. In 'standby', it will be a little warm since part of the electronics are active waiting for a bass signal to play again. Most receivers operate in this same manner, that is they never go totally off. This is the mode most users prefer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

delusive1

06-09-07, 01:30 PM

Never mind. I had used it tonight and it went stand by as I went to bed. This morning its cool now. I am think the Mrs. Delusive used it prior to getting home.

videoaddikt

06-09-07, 03:04 PM

Curt,
I have 'large' front speakers (Dali Ikon 6) and am running my crossover in the receiver (Arcam AVR350) at 60hz with LFE out to a DLS-5000R.
My system was optimized with regards to speaker/sub location by my dealer (ISF/CEDIA) using an RTA.
Would I better to overlap the setting on my sub at 80hz instead of using 'direct'?
Should I also 'Y' the input to sub?
Room size is calculated out to slightly over 2000 sf.
Thanks in advance! Everything sounds great, BTW. These are 'fine tweaks'.

curt c

06-09-07, 03:41 PM

Hi,
If your system is 'optimized', I would hesitate to change anything. I recommend just using the receiver's crossover. If it is set to '60' for the subwoofer, that's all the sub will receive so setting the sub to '80' won't accomplish any overlap. I normally use a 'Y' into both inputs and back off the sub's volume some. In your 2K room it doesn't really matter since you should have plenty of headroom.
Good Listening,
Curt

videoaddikt

06-09-07, 03:49 PM

Kevin70

06-10-07, 04:43 PM

I originally posted this on the main Subwoofers page as a thread, but I realized this is probably a good place for it. I figure I'll probably get an official response of call or e-mail technical support, but if anyone has had a similar problem or has a clue what it might cost to get this fixed, let me know. I'd appreciate any information.

Original Post:

My Velodyne HGS-15 Series II Subwoofer appears to have died. I turned on a CD yesterday and heard some strange noises. I turned off the CD and the noise continued. It is hard to describe the noise. It was somewhat high pitched (not a whine) with changing frequencies. It almost sounded like some screwed up music. However, the CD was actually stopped. It definitely wasn't frequencies you would normally hear coming from a subwoofer, but it definitely was coming from the subwoofer. I assume it was coming from the speaker.

I turned power off to the subwoofer, unplugged and plugged in the power cable, unplugged and plugged in the RCA cable and then turned it back on. No noise. I turned on the music and then it started making a thumping noise. This was a totally different noise than before. It isn't real low bass, but it is definitely coming out of the subwoofers speaker and is a typical subwoofer frequency. It kind of sounds like someone rapping on a door. When you turn off the music the thumping lasts a little bit and then quits. It kind of sounds like something goofy with the feedback mechanism (the HGS has a feedback mechanism it uses to reduce distortion).

Any ideas? I don't think the subwoofer is blown. I don't really listen to it that loud, and the last use where it worked properly was a few days ago watching a movie with my wife (meaning it wasn't straining even a little bit since my wife doesn't like loud movies). My guess is that it is the electronics. The thing is never moved and has just been sitting in a corner for 3 or 4 years untouched since I installed it. I have no kids or pets, so no one messed with it.

I've also swapped out the subwoofer RCA cable and there was no difference. I then hooked it up to my downstairs system (the thing was a pain lifting it down the stairs) and it did the same thing. It is definitely the subwoofer.

Has anyone heard of a similar problem? Any ideas what the problem might be. I guess I'll have to send it in for repair, but I have no idea how much that will cost or whether it will be worth it.

It is really disappointing. This subwoofer was only 3 or 4 years old. I expected it to last much, much longer. The sound was awesome. When I upgraded from an M&K subwoofer, the difference in bass was very noticeable. It was probably the biggest difference in sound of any upgrade I have done. My expensive amps didn't make much difference in sound. The subwoofer did. However, when you spend a couple of thousand dollars on a subwoofer, you expect it to last more than 3 or 4 years. I had hoped it was under warranty (my amps have a 10 year warranty and my speakers have a 5 year warranty), but it turns out it only has a 2 year warranty.

Oh yea, there definitely weren't any issues with this subwoofer being too small for my room. I see alot of people suggesting that as a problem when a subwoofer has issues. This subwoofer was way overkill for my small room (but I liked it that way).

Thanks

curt c

06-10-07, 05:30 PM

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851. The amplifier will need to be sent in for evaluation.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Kevin70

06-11-07, 09:48 AM

Thanks. I'll try to call today. Is it possible to send in just the amplifier? I work on computers all of the time. I assume it wouldn't be difficult to remove the back plate (just a bunch of screws).

curt c

06-11-07, 11:25 AM

Yes, you would just send in the amplifier plate and it comes out easy.
Curt

Kevin70

06-11-07, 07:15 PM

Looks like it won't be too terribly expensive to send in the AMP section for repair (or replacement with a refurbished one).

Any hints on removing the amp section. I see several big screws and a few smaller torx screws. I would normally just remove them all and gently pull out the back-plate. Do the Torx screws really need to be removed? Anything unexpected going to happen when I unscrew everything and start to remove the backplate? I don't expect any issues, but every now and then there is a design where there is some trick to removing a component.

curt c

06-11-07, 07:31 PM

Hi,
Nothing tricky. Just remove the outer parameter screws, nothing else. No Torx. Then start it out gently with a thin blade screwdriver. Make a note as to wiring harness connection.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

mrbill2003

06-11-07, 08:27 PM

I am deciding between these two models. My room is 225 sq ft and only used for Home Theater. Can you get too big a sub for the room? I would like to only buy what I need. Can anyone help me choose? Thanks!

curt c

06-11-07, 08:50 PM

Hi,
It's almost always best to go bigger. In this case the SPL-1200 without question. I installed two SPL-1200's in a room about your size and it was awesome. When I switched to one, it was still great. Go for it!
Curt

boosaman

06-12-07, 02:14 PM

I have purchased a DD-12 and am impressed with the sound. I looked closely at the Fathom 113, but, perhaps because of a dealer's ineptitude, was not at all impressed with what I heard. The DD-12 sounds much better, and the room eq is very interesting, although I am not sure I fully understand all of it.

I have connected the DD-12 using the subwoofer out from my Lexicon DC-2 into the LFE input on the subwoofer. There are two inputs (red and white) and I have used a cable that essentially takes the single subwoofer out and connects it to both inputs. Is this correct?

Is there any other connection I am supposed to make?

I have the DC-2 indicating that my main speakers are small with a crossover at 80; I have turned off the crossover on the subwoofer menu, so I use the one in the DC-2.

In trying to equalize the room, I had a big dip near the 80 level, which I seemed not to be able to fix completely, either using the auto eq or the manual eq.

My room is about 19 x 14 x 8. The DD-12 fits nicely in the room, but I wonder if the differences between the DD-12 and DD-15 would be significant enough to make it work the extra money. Thoughts? Will I really feel a difference?

Thanks for your help.

Jack

curt c

06-12-07, 03:37 PM

Hi,
Your connection is correct. The only other connection is the 'eq-out' into a vacant input of your DC-2 which it appears you have done. Frequency dips, if room related can be difficult to deal with. Try moving the DD to a different spot and see if it goes away. Since it's also at the crossover point, you might try a higher crossover if the DC-2 offers one. By taking the eq bars into the parametric mode you can stack them close together at the dip and see if that helps.
The DD-15 has about 6-8db more output and goes deeper than the DD-12. Either unit should do well in your 2000 plus cubic foot room, assuming there are no permanent openings. Feel free to call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

boosaman

06-12-07, 05:47 PM

Curt,

Thanks for the information and your fast response.

I do have two openings in the room (and one window). The one opening is a door way size; the other opening is a double door way side, toward the back.

And yes, I hooked up the DD-12 to the extra input in the DC-2 when calibrating it; however, I removed the connection to the extra input once I started using the system. I assume that this is correct?

Thanks again for your help.

Jack

curt c

06-12-07, 06:07 PM

You can remove the connection, or leave it up. It doesn't matter. Regarding the room openings, you need to calculate all the additional room sizes until you hit a true dead end. It appears the DD-15 or DD-18 would be the proper recommendation.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

boosaman

06-14-07, 12:06 PM

curt c

06-14-07, 12:17 PM

I have decided to return the DD-12 and get the DD-15.

Are authorized dealers required to sell the Velodyne units at a "price protected" amount? My present dealer has told me this; however, a quick call to another authorized dealer indicates a lower price.

Did the price on the DD-15s just increase?

Thanks

Hi,
You should be able to find the DD-15 at the 'street price' of $3199. from an authorized Velodyne dealer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

boosaman

06-14-07, 04:46 PM

Thanks, Curt, for all your assistance.

I have ordered the DD-15, and should have it in about week or two. I am anxious to add it to my system; the DD-12 sounded terrific, and I imagine that the DD-15 will sound even better (based upon my listening tests in the store).

To those who read this thread, Curt's assistance, in both learning about products, as well as the technical support he provides, is excellent and significant. He is responsive and knowledgeable. Having a direct service connection like Curt is, in my view, an important factor in considering whether to purchase a Velodyne product.

Jack

curt c

06-14-07, 05:00 PM

Jack,
I certainly appreciate your kind words. All of you feel free to call for assistance or an opinion anytime.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

FSense

06-17-07, 02:29 PM

:( Hi. Just acquired a DLS-3570R sub, factory refurbished, via an Internet authorized seller. Out of the box, it has a problem, but still functions OK from an audio standpoint. I've emailed the seller as well as Velodyne service, but perhaps someone here could shed some light on the problem, or tell me how Velodyne normally handles service on this type of problem. The last thing I want to do is to ship the sub again and I could easily replace an internal board if Velodyne will do business that way. Here's the problem:

For the first 10 minutes or so that the sub is powered on, the blue LED functions properly, can be turned off with the remote, and blinks appropriately when the phase or preset buttons on the remote are pressed. After the sub warms up for 10 minutes or so, the blue LED begins flashing between bright and half-bright continuously. It then can't be turned off with the remote, and won't blink in response to the phase or preset buttons as it should, but pressing one of those buttons does interrupt the flashing momentarily. Pressing the Power button on the remote kills the audio, but the LED remains flashing. All audio functions seem to work OK. If I had bought this sub used, I'd just live with it, but since it's factory refurbished with a warranty, I'd like to get it fixed. Any advice?

curt c

06-17-07, 02:46 PM

Hi,
Try the following;
1) Unplug the sub from the AC power for 30 seconds. Then plug back in.
2) Do a software reset by aiming the remote at the sub and pushing the preset buttons in this order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). If it blinks several times, the reset took. You will now be at factory settings.
3) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer inputs.
4) Increase the volume for the subwoofer jack in the receiver to three fourths of the way up.
5) Keep the volume of the subwoofer near factory setting.
The subwoofer may have been overheating from not enough input signal or being pushed too hard. See if operation is proper after doing the above. If not, contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851. If repair is necessary, you would only return the amplifier, which is easily removed. If you have questions, call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

MrHifi

06-17-07, 03:45 PM

Hi Curt,

Glad to see you are still going strong my old friend. Hope you are well. Think of you every time I fire up that F-1800R.

A word to those of you who do not know Curt. He represents the finest example of what the Hifi business used to be in this country. Curt cares about Velodyne's customers. He strives to make sure we are happy and will do whatever it takes to make you a loyal, satisfied Velodyne devotee. Several years ago Curt resolved a 5 year old amplifier problem in a matter of days. He is a gentleman and a friend. Treat him well and he will last a long time. If you need a reason to select a Velodyne product over the competition, Curt is it.

OK my friend, I am going to listen to my system for a while. Good to know you're still kicking.

curt c

06-17-07, 04:19 PM

Hey Art,
It's great to hear from you again. So very glad to know you're doing okay, along with the F-1800. Thanks for the update and you take care.
Curt

--------
To those who do not know Art, he and I go back to the 'glory days of hi-fi' and we've never let go. He is of the 'straight-shooter, no-nonsense' school which I also attended. He is appreciated and respected by those who know him. Audio has been good to us.
--------

CT_Wiebe

06-18-07, 05:45 PM

Another "pat on the back" for Curt. He is the reason I subscribe to this thread. I don't visit very often because I keep drooling over the new models. My room size (2800+ cu. ft.) could really benefit from an 18" sub (I prefer to have a downward firing sub, since it fits my placement options better). Unfortunately, the current Velodyne line-up doesn't seem to have a downward firing model.

BTW, does my ancient ULD-15 qualify for "museum" status (27+years old - I bought it new, a Demo model)? The external amp and speaker were "updated" by the Velodyne factory (they're local) about 1.5 years into my ownership (due to an "Oops"). It's still going strong :D.

curt c

06-18-07, 06:19 PM

Museum piece indeed! It's amazing how many of the ULD's are still in service, and enjoyed. Many have told me they're (almost) like a family member and they can't give them up. This early servo design put Velodyne and David Hall (Owner and Founder) on the 'audio map'. In the early days David and Bruce (Velodyne President) were out in a van going from store-to-store trying to sell these 'big' boxes that roared. The Hall brothers are still at it and Velodyne is still going strong after all these years thanks to everyone's support. BYW, your's is the oldest one I'm aware of.
Thanks for checking in.
Curt (928) 858-4430

CT_Wiebe

06-19-07, 06:00 PM

Thanks for the info. I bought mine from a local shop, Century Stereo, here in San Jose. I "discovered" that store around 1965 (it's still in business). The ULD that I have is one of the earliest ones and was the store's demo model for about a year (around the time they were first introduced - I don't exactly remember when).

I just researched the Velodyne site, where I discovered that the ULD-15 wasn't released until 1987. That means that I had to have bought mine around March of 1988 (at Century Stereo's inventory sale that year). That means that mine is "only" 19-20 years old (I was off by 7+ years). They say, as we age, our "memory is the second thing to go". :D.

Here are the early Velodyne Milestones:1983 Founding of Velodyne by David Hall
David Hall develops prototypes of the first accelerometer-based servo technology suitable for loudspeakers.

1984 High Gain Servo™ Technology Patent
Velodyne patents the world's first High Gain Servo-Controlled subwoofer lowering distortion to below 1%. The patent contains specifications for a sealed, piezo-electric diving-board based accelerometer.

1984 Ultra-Low-Distortion (ULD) 18 Released
Velodyne starts building subwoofers to satisfy the demand for high quality bass reproduction. The first model using the High Gain Servo technology is the Ultra-Low-Distortion (ULD) 18.

1987 ULD-15 Released
The Ultra-Low-Distortion (ULD) 15 is released. It represents a breakthrough in small subwoofer performance, fitting a 15" driver in a then-unheard-of 2.2 cubic foot sealed enclosure. A 156 oz magnet structure and high-powered 350-watt amp are used. The ULD-12 follows the ULD-15 in 1989.

curt c

06-19-07, 06:21 PM

Hi,
The ULD-18 was the first subwoofer released by Velodyne. The large 18 was often referred to as 'the casket', as in coffin. The smaller ULD-15 followed and was the first time I heard the WAF (wife acceptance factor) term, at least related to audio. Century Stereo in San Jose was probably the first Velodyne dealer, owned by 'Audio Phil'. I too spent time there in the 60's and 70's.
Curt

CT_Wiebe

06-20-07, 06:37 PM

That I didn't know (CS being one of the 1st Velodyne dealers).

"Audio Phil" has "retired", Rick Bonner is now the GM. I usually dealt with Dick Pretel (we became good friends - he's since retired). You and I might have crossed paths, although I spent more time in the store after they moved to the Bascom, at Moorpark, location (it was on my way home from work). They're now located in a real fancy, and big, store in the El Paseo de Saratoga Shopping Center (see http://www.centurystereo.com/), and I'm retired.

"We are now returning you to your regular programming." :D

Tommycarl

06-24-07, 03:09 PM

why do you have to send the whole sub in for service instead of the amp/driver?
do you still make grilles for the HGS 18 SUB?

curt c

06-24-07, 04:54 PM

Hi,
You don't send the whole subwoofer. In most cases it's the amplifier you would send in. Check with Velodyne service (408) 465-2800, ext 3851 or service@velodyne.com regarding the availability of the grill and any repair issues you may have. They are available Monday through Friday.
Thanks,
Curt

palermo22

06-25-07, 08:42 PM

Hello - I need some help with my Velodyne CT-120. I just got an Onkyo 805 and would like to know the best settings for the following:

Volume - which number?

Low pass crossover - which number setting?

Volume - phase (0 or 120)

Highpass (100 or 80)

X-over (out or in)

Power (auto/on).

Thanks - greatly appreciate the advice

curt c

06-25-07, 09:10 PM

Hi,
I would need to know a lot more to answer the questions. If possible call me tomorrow and I'll be happy to help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Dave_6

06-26-07, 05:54 PM

Hello, I currently am using only one DPS-10 with my setup. Everything is in my living room which is quite large and 'open'. Is there anyway to hook up another DPS-10 to my receiver to help with such a large space?

curt c

06-26-07, 06:02 PM

Hi,
You would use a 'Y' splitter (one-male, two-female) at the receiver's sub-out jack. Then run a 'rca' cable to each sub. At each subwoofer use a 'Y' splitter (one-female, two-male) into both subwoofer's inputs. Raise the volume control for the subwoofer jack in the receiver to about three fourths of the way up. If this is not clear, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Dave_6

06-26-07, 06:04 PM

Thanks Curt! I may be giving you a call at some point, but where can I get those 'Y' splitters from? Any certain brand or part #?

CT_Wiebe

06-26-07, 06:19 PM

Radio Shack is one source. Also BB & CC.

Mixdoctor

06-26-07, 11:09 PM

On the DD series subs, is there a way to get the Velodyne light working again ? I have made sure that the software has the light on , and tried using the remote and the light will not come on, but the sub works fine. What can I do ?

curt c

06-26-07, 11:20 PM

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

lparsons21

07-02-07, 01:25 PM

I'm looking at the VRP-1200 to go with the following:

Yamaha RX-V661
JBL Venue series surrounds and center
Room size : 12x20x8 fully carpeted

Is this a good match, or would a 10" be a better choice?

zingo59

07-02-07, 02:19 PM

curt c

07-02-07, 02:25 PM

curt c

07-02-07, 02:32 PM

I have a seperate post here as well but thought I would ask this question here also. I am looking at purchasing 2 spl1500 for my theater room. I am about 90% home theater but I appreciate nice tight controlled bass (musical?) Would a pair of these be enough for home theater or should I look at different choices (Hsu, SVS, etc..)

Thanks Zingo

Hi,
To give a proper recommendation I must know cubic displacement of total area, that includes listening room and any other rooms that are open to the main room. Another consideration might be a SC-1250 amplifier driving two SC-15 passive subs. I suggest you get the measurements and give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

lparsons21

07-02-07, 05:45 PM

Hi,
I'd recommend going with the VRP-1200.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt.

I just placed my order with my vendor for the VRP-1200 along with Cerwin-Vega VE series surrounds and center.

cuz24

07-02-07, 06:27 PM

when i turn my sub on it powers up but when i put jack just slightly in i hear a rumble but when i push all the way in no sound. sub is connected to pioneer elite receiver. can anyone help thanks

curt c

07-02-07, 06:53 PM

Hi,
Be sure to try a different cable. Is your receiver programmed correctly? Program speakers as 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. Never install the connecting interconnect cable with the subwoofer on. Turn it off or unplug the power cord. It may be an issue on the internal side of the sub's input jack in which case you will need to call Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851, or service@velodyne.com. Only the amp will need to be sent in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

ffreeus

07-03-07, 10:08 AM

Curt seems like you are the man in the know on this board. Hopefully you can help me out. I have a VA1250x which I loved. Well it now has a problem. When I turn it on even without any input I get a loud pop follwed by a static noise that does not go away. ANy ideas what this may be and to your knowledge does velodyne still support this model. I am hopeful this was a common problem easily fixed. Thanks for your time

curt c

07-03-07, 11:10 AM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com. To my knowledge they can still service your unit. They will be able to give you a quote for the required work.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Mikey88

07-03-07, 11:23 PM

Hi. I have gotten hold of an older Velodyne sub and am trying to hook it up to a new Harman Kardon receiver as a sub in a 5.1 setup.

Velodyne model SF12BVX10 (ca. 1995)
Harman Kardon AVR 645 (ca. 2007)

The Velodyne sub wants a LR line input. The receiver only offers a mono sub output. Can I run this mono sub output to either of the stereo inputs on the Velodyne? And just set the Velodyne's crossover to highest freq. allowed? I won't be using the Velodyne's ext. speaker capability, so I am thinking that setting the crossover freq. to the highest will effectively disable it, allowing the Harman Kardon to do the work. All ext. speakers will be connected directly to the receiver.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for any help!

curt c

07-04-07, 09:09 AM

Hi,
Run a single 'rca' cable from the sub-out jack of the receiver to the subwoofer. Put a 'Y' splitter (1-female, 2-male) at the subwoofer into both input jacks. Do put the crossover at 120 hz. This subwoofer was primarily designed for music in a small room so keep it's volume below half way. If you need more output you can raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in the receiver. If you want more info on this model, call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Mikey88

07-04-07, 10:00 PM

[QUOTE=curt c]
This subwoofer was primarily designed for music in a small room.

Thanks Curt! The room I have it in is 22X12. Not sure if that's small or med.

Still tuning the rest of the configuration, but for now I have three Innovox SF 102's for a 3.1 home theater setup, and am wanting the Velodyne to fill in the low end well. The Innovox's are very lightweight on tone, on general size of sound, etc. But I am stuck with at least the Center Ch. because of size constraints in the installation. Am hoping the Velodyne will fill in the low and low mid, not just the rumbling low. BTW I am more interested in a music system (old school rock and jazz, classical) than watching War of the Worlds in THX. Anyway, thanks for your help. If there is another product that might meet my requirements better, please let me know.

thanks again, M.

CT_Wiebe

07-05-07, 09:26 AM

Your room is over 2000 cubic feet in size, I wouldn't classify that as small. I have a 26' x 13' room and I have a 15" Velodyne. The Sub will only fill in the sound below 80 HZ, to me, that's not "mid-low". However, you need to check your H-K manual to see what the various set-ups do (a "normal" music set-up may not even send a signal to the Sub). A Sub will certainly help, but if your Innovox SF 102's don't have much below 100 - 120 Hz, the Sub will still leave a hole between 80 and 100 Hz, even with the H-K set up to use the Sub for music.

Curt should have more info on this subject.

curt c

07-05-07, 10:19 AM

Hi,
Your room size is in the medium catagory. If there are any permanent openings to other rooms they also need to be calculated. I'm not familiar with your speakers. Your receiver has a very flexible bass management system with multiple crossover choices. There are many Velodyne subwoofers that may be more applicable depending on size and budget.
Hook up your current Velodyne in the manner suggested and see how it performs. For this unit a corner location will provide the best performance. If you have the time, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928)858-4430

RoyDavis

07-05-07, 12:32 PM

I have an old Velodyne VA-810 in need of a replacement driver. I have emailed and called Velodyne about a replacement and they won't bother to respond. The driver is 8", the cabinet has a 10" passive radiator and is about 1.0 cubic ft inside. The amp is supposed to be 100watts. The crossover is fixed @ 80hz. I don't know the impedance of the current driver. I have been looking at drivers at the partsexpress web site(i am not allowed to post the link). Any ideas on which driver to choose. I have little knowledge of electronics and I could sure use some advice.
Thanks, Roy

curt c

07-05-07, 02:08 PM

Hi,
If you send me a phone number and email address, I'll forward it to Velodyne service and have someone contact you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Tony Chick

07-08-07, 04:21 AM

JimP

07-08-07, 08:35 AM

Curt,

Would a DD-15 amp fit a HGS-15 with corresponding wiring, etc.?

I see the amp for sale on ebay and wondered if it would be possible to upgrade a HGS-15 to a DD by swapping the amps.

curt c

07-08-07, 10:52 AM

I have a CHT-8 thats been working fine since I bought it. Recently I noticed that it didn't seem to be working anymore. It does produce sound but at a very low volume. Every now and again, it suddenly comes back to life for a few minutes then I hear a "click" and the volume goes back down again.

My guess is some protection circuitry is acting up since the amp seems capable of working normally, I've tried various power off/on sequences but to no effect and I can't figure out how to get inside it.

Anyone have any tips?.

Hi,
It sounds like your amp will need service. Contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; 408-465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Here are some things to try;
1) Keep the Velodyne's volume well below half way.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs at the Velodyne.
3) Raise the volume in your receiver to about three fourths of the way up for the subwoofer jack.
Thanks,
Curt

clausdk

07-08-07, 03:40 PM

Having searched the web and this forum I havent been able to find any measurements of the SPL1200R sub.

I auditioned it this friday and it was great sounding - really. However this was done solely in a stereo setup.

I can see via the velodyne brochure that it extends to 22 hz - 3db point.

Was wondering how it performs at around 20 hz in room response?

Currently own a CHT-10 that I'm upgrading as I miss out on all sub 28 hz material.

I normally don't listen above 90-95 db when watching movies.

Will the SPL1200R dp 90-95 db at 20 hz at all? without astronomical THDs?

/claus

curt c

07-08-07, 05:08 PM

Hi,
There's no way to predict 20hz response in your room, but it's doubtful that 20 hz would reach 90-95db. In a small (shut-off) room it may reach those levels at 22-24hz. Since human hearing is rather dead below 30hz, I doubt that it would sound any different if it did reach 20hz. Be sure to check for proper sub sizing (which product) on website.
Thanks,
Curt

clausdk

07-08-07, 05:24 PM

I used the room eq wizard with my CHT-10 sub and I got a very big boost around 32hz in my room actually.

I might not "hear" 20hz, but I want to feel it! :)

Was just wondering if anyone has some measurements of the SPL1200R in those hz regions?Can only find that it has it's -3db point at 22hz.

/claus

curt c

07-08-07, 05:37 PM

Hi,
Any measurement would be totally room dependent and probably not applicable to your room. Our measurement is as stated. If you really want to feel 20hz and below, I suggest you consider the DD-15 or the DD-18 if your budget permits.
Curt

andy_59

07-09-07, 08:38 AM

Hey everyone,

I have purchased from private a Velodyne SPL 1200R and so I'm new to this forum.
The SPL is a very good sub! :)
I have a question:

For the SPL there is a possibility to use a external IR remote interface.
In the manual is describe:
"(8) IR Input Connect an IR repeater to this jack for use with universal remote systems."
I want to use this external IR remote interface.
But the dealer sayed it costs 120 Euro. This is to much.

The rear input is a 3,5mm connector.
How many pins has it?
If there are used 2 pins, can I use a IR-Input-LED?
Or it is with 3 pins for a IR receiver (such as "TSOP173x" or SFH506-xx) ?
Is there a owner manual or special instructions for this IR repeater?
Is the remote eye when plugged in meant to turn off the main eye?
Is the volume reset (to zero)?

Thanks,
Andy

curt c

07-09-07, 09:03 AM

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

lparsons21

07-09-07, 11:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lparsons21
I'm looking at the VRP-1200 to go with the following:

Yamaha RX-V661
JBL Venue series surrounds and center
Room size : 12x20x8 fully carpeted

Is this a good match, or would a 10" be a better choice?

Hi,
I'd recommend going with the VRP-1200.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt, I just got my VRP-1200 in tonight. I did end up changing the other speakers to the VE line of bookshelf and center speakers from Cerwin-Vega.

Thanks for that recommendation. I couldn't be more pleased with the performance of the VRP-1200 and it goes quite well with the CVs. When I pushed the volume on the Chronicles of Riddick in some really nice heavy bass part, it just shook the house. Exactly what I was looking for.

And the fact that it still performs great at much lower listening levels is just icing on the cake.

curt c

07-09-07, 11:32 PM

Good to HEAR it. Thanks for the feedback.
Curt

lparsons21

07-09-07, 11:43 PM

Good to HEAR it. Thanks for the feedback.
Curt

Well, you know CV says they are the LOUD speaker company! :)

That the Velodyne fit in so well was a very pleasant result.

JimP

07-10-07, 08:26 AM

Curt,

On the SMS-1, is the "speaker wire" connection there only to turn on/off the unit?

I've been trying to figure out a way to use the SMS to equalize a speaker level signal and thought I was onto something with the "speaker wire" connection, but I'm not so sure as there is no speaker level output .

curt c

07-10-07, 09:06 AM

Hi Jim,
The 'speaker-level' input is there to use instead of line-level for those who require that type of hook up. There is no speaker level output, only input so if you need a high-pass filter you would need to use your own speaker level capacitors. Call me if you need more info.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Brent Hutto

07-10-07, 01:14 PM

I could not get the speaker in our lightning-damaged CT-100 to sound on its own and decided that since I couldn't send back just the electronics module for repair I'd replace the whole subwoofer. With the shipping charges both ways it would be over $200 to get it working plus it would be a hassle to round up a suitable box, etc. Anyway...now we have a VRP-1200. A little bigger, a little stronger and a lot heavier than the old one. I don't know if there's any technology difference between the old CT-series and the VRP models but 12" has gotta be better than 10", right? I'm going to install and set it up tonight.

IIRC, the lowest mode in our home theater room is around 33-34Hz. The room is 15'x16' with normal ceilings just under 8' high. There are two 32" wide doors to adjacent rooms but we keep them covered with heavy drapes when watching movies so I don't think there's a lot of coupling through them. So am I correct in assuming that the larger subwoofer will not actually extend any deeper in this room? With the old one, there really wasn't anything below that lowest mode with a sweep tone test.

Here's my setup questions. The main speakers are Polk R35's so I run them as "small" and that really cleans up the sound when they don't have to try and produce any lows. IIRC, I had the old system set up with a 120Hz crossover to take as much load off the R35's (and crummy CS245 center speaker) as possible. Is that a good idea? I doubt I'll hear much difference in quality with the 12" Velodyne versus the 10" since neither of them is exactly taxed to the limit at the volumes we listen to in our 2000 cu. ft. room. I also can't recall how it is you're supposed to choose the polarity of the subwoofer.

Final question. Can I use the automated setup in my Onkyo receiver and let it choose the subwoofer level? It has the little microphone you plug in and put in three different places at listener's-ear level. My plan is to set the volume on the VRP-1200 at about 1/4 to 1/3 and then let the receiver automation choose the sub-out level it thinks is balanced.

curt c

07-10-07, 01:51 PM

Hi Brent,
First of all, heavy drapes do not stop bass wave-lengths very effectively.
As to set-up, your 120hz crossover sounds good and bypass the one on the subwoofer.
For the VRP do the following;
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
2) Put phase at '0'.
3) Install the subwoofer in a corner away from the room openings.
4) Raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver to three fourths of the way up.
(Do not let the receiver set that level automatically)
5) Keep the volume on the subwoofer less than half way up.
Call me if you have more questions.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

lgood92

07-10-07, 04:36 PM

Bruce,
I recently purchased a CHT-10 plate amp ( unused) and Eastech C1004B 10" driver on ebay. I don't have an enclosure and would like to build a smaller sealed box. I have been unable to find the t/s parameters for this driver and Eastech won't give them out without Velodyne's permission.
Would you be able to provide the specs on this older discontinued part please.
Thanks in advance.
Lloyd

Yamaha RX-V1400
Totem Model 1 fronts
Totem Mite Center
Klipsch diapole rears
and hopefully soon, Velodyne CHT-10 sub.....

curt c

07-10-07, 05:11 PM

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Curt

Brent Hutto

07-10-07, 09:08 PM

I put the VRP-1200 in a different corner of the room than the old sub and set it up per Curt's suggestions. 100Hz receiver crossover since that's what the manual recommends for my size speakers. Level control on the sub about 1/3 of the way up and sub-out level set to 2/3 of the way up (+3dB out of a possible range of -15dB to +12dB) which seems to be a sweet spot for nice, full sound.

For fun I ran the automated speaker level setup and it suggested +1dB on the sub-out which is just 2dB different than what I ended up with by ear. I'll stick with the +3dB setting.

On sweep tones I get a low-Q dip 4-5dB deep centered on the 100Hz crossover frequency (maybe 80Hz to 105-110Hz). I'm not sure something like that has any audible effect. The VRP-1200 (and location, of course) does go a bit lower on the sweep than I remember the old sub. Below that 34Hz room mode it drops about 8-10dB but then keeps on at that level all the way down to 27Hz before dying off quickly below that. The old CT-100 went to nothing from 31Hz down.

JimP

07-11-07, 01:23 AM

Brent,

Since you have a dip at your crossover frequency, have you tried reversing polarity or changing phase from 0 to 180?

Brent Hutto

07-11-07, 10:07 AM

Jim,

You're right. Flipping the phase switch somewhat minimized the dip. I also used Avia's warble tone and confirmed that the 180-degree setting is best, although it's pretty subtle.

It's funny. In the other corner of the room with the old sub the 0-degree phase setting was clearly the best. The sub actually sounded weak, peaky and bad with the wrong setting. The new sub in a different corner works well either way but the 180-degree one is slightly better. Go figure.

One thing for sure. The new subwoofer and/or the new position is much smoother and more subtle sounding. Maybe the 100Hz crossover helps too. But with the new setup I can never tell there's a subwoofer working in the corner. It just sounds like the main speakers are huge and the room is full of extremely clean bass. And I thought the CT-100 was clean but this is good stuff.

Lemistral

07-12-07, 12:36 PM

I'm almost positive I saw a similar question answered in this thread (or a predecessor) but I can't find it so I'll ask it again. I have a Velodyne F-1000 hooked up to a Marantz SR-7000 receiver. I know the F-1000 was designed primarily for music, but what's the best way to set this sub up for H/T? Does the fact that the Marantz has a non-adjustable LFE crossover of 100Hz factor in?

Also, would even some of the cheaper, newer velodyne subs outperform the F-1000 for music and H/T?

Thanks.

curt c

07-12-07, 01:04 PM

Hi,
Yes the F-1000 was designed for music in a small shut-off room. Run a 'rca' cable from the subwoofer jack of the receiver to the Velodyne. At the sub install a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks. Put the sub's crossover at 120hz. Keep the volume of the Velodyne below half way. Raise the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer jack to about three fourths of the way up. Place the sub in or near a corner. The F-1000 does a superb job on music in a small room. Any of the cheaper Velodyne's would be more suitable for H/T. If you need more info, call me.
thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

William_Wong

07-13-07, 02:40 PM

Curt,

I bought a unit of SPL-1200R from your local dealer bout 9 months ago. Recently upon periodic cleaning up the unit, i noticed some foam/bubble at the from panel very close to the driver. It looks like the adhesive for these laminated plastic layer is coming off. I sent the unit back to the dealer for warranty claim and after waiting for a week's time, I am told that this defect is NOT covered under warranty. Frankly speaking, I don't understand why it's not as the warranty clause clearly stated that it covers the defect in materials and workmanship. I tried to argue with the dealer but they stated this is directly from Velodyne itself.

I'll need your clarification in this.

Thanks,
William.

curt c

07-13-07, 02:48 PM

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service manager, Dave Santos at (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

mura

07-15-07, 02:04 PM

Setup:

Focal Electra (1027Be,CC1000Be,SR1000Be) with Sunfire TGR 5 and Sunfire 7400.

Room is 6000 cu Ft. Should i get 2 DD15 or 1 DD18.

Thanks.

curt c

07-15-07, 02:13 PM

Hi,
Personally I would go with two DD-18's. You might start with one and add the second later.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Rte 66 Dave

07-15-07, 11:23 PM

Hello,
I have a wonderful FSR-12 sub that has developed a nasty hum like a defective filter capacitor. How can I obtain a service manual or schematic diagram so that I can make the needed repairs and once again enjoy this wonderful sub?
Thank you,
Dave

curt c

07-16-07, 11:59 AM

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service manager, Dave Santos at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

boosaman

07-18-07, 10:55 AM

I presently own a DD-15, and am about to purchase Thiel Powerpoints (3 for the front) and 4 Higher Planes for the back. Thiel, of course, as well as some reviewers, strongly recommend using the Thiel subs. Interestingly, the Thiel dealers did not; they felt that the Thiel subs were extremely expensive. I agreed; the Thiel SS-2 with the crossover would have been an extra $2,500.

In any event, I have the DD-15. In installing the DD-15 with my present NHT Super Ones, I have felt that in some cases the subwoofer just blows the other speakers away. I have to really crank up the volume to get the sound balanced. I have reduced the volume of the sub; the first time I eq'd the thing, and then played a movie, it was way too boomy; increasing the volume during the EQ process made a straighter line, but seemed to create more boominess. Some tinkering with the volume reduced that problem somewhat.

My processor is a Lexicon DC-2.

My questions and concerns are:

*Does anyone have experience using the Powerpoints with a Velodyne DD-15?

*What is the best way to set this up? Presently, I use the crossover in the Lexicon (setting the speakers as "small") and turn OFF the crossovers in the Velodyne.

Any other thoughts or advice?

Thanks.

Jack

JimP

07-18-07, 11:20 AM

Jack,

Is your sub in a corner?

boosaman

07-18-07, 11:47 AM

Jim,

The sub presently is in the corner. However, it will likely be moved to the side of the room (against the wall, but next to a sofa and easy chair).

Jack

JimP

07-18-07, 11:59 AM

Jack,

Getting the sub out of the corner isn't a cure all for all problems, but I find that subs that have a good low end response get boomy in corners.

boosaman

07-18-07, 12:39 PM

Hmmm. Could be. Interestingly, I seemed to get a better response from the DD-12, but changed it out because I thought that the DD-15 would be even better, and it wasn't that much more money.

Jack

curt c

07-18-07, 12:56 PM

Hi,
The DD-15 has better low end frequency response than the DD-12. Of course that can be room and placement dependent. Changing the location of the subwoofer will certainly change it's characteristics. You're on the right course by calling the 'Powerpoints' small as they have very limited bass response. Does the D-2 offer any crossover choices, or just 80hz? If it offers choices, you may want to experiment.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

dshea1

07-18-07, 01:08 PM

does anyone know where i can purchase a replacement foam surround for my 8" sub? i believe its a VA-907. thanks for any help!

-danny

curt c

07-18-07, 01:13 PM

Hi,
My suggestion would be to replace the driver with a current one from Velodyne. Perhaps others are aware of the availability of replacement surround and can offer help.
Curt

dshea1

07-18-07, 01:18 PM

why replace the driver? just to have it new and up to date? becuase the only thing i believe to be wrong with it is that the current foam surround is old and flaking apart.

curt c

07-18-07, 01:24 PM

Hi,
A new driver will perform better than your older unit and unless you do the surround yourself, the cost could be close to the same. It's just a suggestion.
Curt (928) 858-4430

boosaman

07-18-07, 02:28 PM

Curt,

The DC-2 allows the user to set the high pass crossover for LCR and Sides and Rears at 40, 80 or 120hz. It allows for similar crossover points for the subwoofer. The Powerpoints crossover at 80hz, so I will likely use that crossover point.

Presently, I am running NHT Super Ones, which I believe have a similar crossover point, and thus used the 80hz crossover.

I turned off the subwoofer's internal crossover software; this was recommended by the DC-2 manual, although the DC-2 allows you to turn off the DC-2's subwoofer crossover and use the one in the subwoofer.

Jack

curt c

07-18-07, 02:46 PM

Hi,
That's the way I would hook it up too.
Curt

boosaman

07-18-07, 02:49 PM

I guess I need to play around with the phase and polarity controls as well; I had a huge dip in the graph right about 80hz.

OC/ingmaddog

07-18-07, 03:09 PM

Hey guys!

I was looking at Fry's the other day and got the chance to hear some Velodyne subs. All I can say is WOW. I love them. The two models in my price range are the VX-10 and the VRP-1000. Is there any difference between them? I will mainly be using my HT for watching movies and playing video games with a little music listening. My room is pretty small but I like lots of bass...:D

So which one is better/do you recommend and where can I buy them?

EDIT: Oh btw, I have a Sub Pre-Out on my Receiver (Onkyo 504) so would this be the way I would connect the sub to it? Also, would this be the cable I would need:

Sub Cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023602&p_id=2682&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Thanks!!

OC/ingmaddog

07-18-07, 03:28 PM

Well I looked on Velodyne's site and 6ave.com has the VX-10 for $200 w/ free shipping and B&H Photo has it for $145 w/ $36 shipping. So it seems like a lot of stores have good prices on this. Are these both reputable sites? I assume so since they're Velodyne Authorized Resellers.

OC/ingmaddog

07-18-07, 03:53 PM

Well looks like Electronic Expo.com has the VX-10 for $127.88. I'm sure shipping won't be too bad so it looks like I found myself a subwoofer!!

Now back to the cable option. Is all I need the cable I mentioned earlier to connect the sub to my receiver (Onkyo 504)? I'm a total noob to this so please say something if I'm wrong or if I need some more stuff. Thanks!

giomania

07-18-07, 04:14 PM

I am in the process of setting up my recently completed dedicate home theater. I am using two DD-15's connected to the left and right sub outputs of a Lexicon MC-12B processor. The LFE sub is an 18" Bag End Infrasub 18 and is connected to the LFE output on the Lexicon processor.

For those unfamiliar with Lexicon bass management, crossovers for all surround speakers, the L & R subs, and the LFE sub can be independently adjusted between 30-120Hz, in 10Hz increments. Full range is also an option for the surround speakers. By using both the L&R subs and the LFE sub, I can send all bass below the crossover of my surround array to the L & R subs, and keep it out of the LFE channel. The LFE sub will only receive bass information present in the dedicate LFE channel, if present in the soundtrack.

My Left, Right, Left side, Right side, Left rear, and Right rear speakers are identical, have powered 8" subs, and are rated down to 34Hz. These speakers will probably be crossed over at 40 Hz, but 50, 60 or 70Hz are also options. The center channel will be crossed over at 80Hz. In this specific setup, the pair (L & R) of DD series subs would receive bass frequencies as follows:

1) Center channel bass from 80Hz and below sent to both the L & R subs.
2) Left, Left side, and Left rear channel bass from 40Hz and below sent to the L DD series sub.
3) Right, Right side, and Right rear channel bass from 40Hz and below sent to the R DD series sub

As a side note, the Bag End would receive only LFE channel bass when present in the program's soundtrack. The room is 27'-3" x 20'-10" x 8' (around 4,500 cubic feet) in volume.

Now, to my question: Should I run these stereo L/R subs in a master/slave configuration, and how do I calibrate them? I'm thinking it makes sense to first use the Velodyne EQ setup to find the best positions for each stereo sub, individually. That should allow for the best placement possible in the front end of the room.

After that, I am unsure if I should calibrate the DD-15's together or separately. I should point out that I also have the Auto EQ option in the Lexicon processor. I found the below post discussing the calibration with that feature. So, I have a choice of the Velodyne EQ or the Lexicon EQ.

If I did calibrate the DD-15's separately using the Velodyne EQ, would I pair the left speaker with the left sub, and the right speaker with the right sub, essentially calibrating each DD-15 in mono mode?

Brad,

I have a similar set-up: Lexicon MC12B V4 and a DD15. My room is a dedicated theater 21x15x8 although I have a 4x5 entry at the back corner of my room. I've tried the following set-up options:

1. V4 plus Velo EQ
2. V4 W/O Velo EQ
3. No V4 with Velo EQ

My preferred setting was V4 W/O the Velo EQ (option 2). I do have to admit to my ears the differences were subtle between options 1 & 2 above, but both options 1 & 2 were better then option 3. I use the mid EQ setting (default) for V4.

To set up my sub, I used the Velo EQ system to help find the location as close to flat as possible in my room by placing the DD15 in my "captain’s chair" and then moved the mic around the room until I found the flattest response curve. After locating that spot (front of the room next to my center channel) I then ran the auto eq function on the Lex and engaged V4. It was from this location that I tried the 3 different set-ups noted above. I had to adjust the Velo EQ for options 1 & 3 as the setting were different. BTW, Dr. Jim Muller who is the architect behind V4 has stated on the Lexicon forum that he believes option 2 is the preferred option as well. At the same time he mentioned he’s a bit bias and that both options 1 or 2 will sound great. Once Velodyne comes out with their auto set-up, I’ll see if that makes a difference. I doubt it, but you never know :-).

By way of background I upgraded to a single DD15 from a single Earthquake Supernova 15 MKIV, I found the differences to be much greater then expected between these subs. There is a lot more depth and presence to the sound of the DD15. The bass is cleaner and much tighter. To me the difference is much more noticeable on music than movies, but IMHO the DD15 is superior for both music and movies as compared to the Earthquake. I was originally planning to purchase 2 DD15's but after talking to my dealer I decided to get one first and if at a later date I still wanted more visceral response to then add a second DD15. I'm 90% sure I'll add another DD15 for the extra oomph, but I do not think it's necessary. A single DD15 has a lot of power…but as we all know this pursuit for A/V perfection can become an obsession.

Pete

Thanks for any input.

Mark

curt c

07-18-07, 07:43 PM

Hi,
I really suggest you call me to speak to the various options. You will need to 'EQ' each DD separately. They cannot be EQ'd together. After doing both, you may want to do a final 'EQ' on one of the DD subs with all three playing together at the same level. The Velodyne 'Bass Management Equalization' is far more flexible and accurate than any pre/pro or receiver's auto eq. We concentrate on the bass only.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

rsx1022

07-19-07, 07:48 PM

:) hi
i am new to this forum, i just bought a minivee 10, so just want to say hi to everyone.
seem no one talk about this sub in this forum.

curt c

07-19-07, 08:07 PM

Hi,
Welcome. The MiniVee 10 is a vanilla version of the SPL-1000R and a fairly new product. In the proper application it is IMO, along with the SPL-1000R, the best value in a small 10" subwoofer. Very accurate, very musical. Easily one of my favorites. You made an excellent selection.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

rsx1022

07-21-07, 01:49 AM

:( but the worse thing is i got this from ebay.......

TBoyd

07-21-07, 06:05 PM

Noted a post a few pages back about the age of a poster's ULD-15, where purchased, etc.

Just wanted to support the thread by saying that my ULD-18 is still running strong after its purchase from a small shop on San Antonio Road (Mountain View, CA) in 1989 IIRC. Mine's actually a matte black (installer version?) that I got a good price on via a special purchase. Btw, I'd never heard 'coffin', I call mine the 'coffee table'.

I've had it serviced only once by taking it into Velodyne's San Jose site some years back.

It's currently running with some new Klipsch RF-83s and doing a fine job for HT and 2-channel music. I still prefer this sub over newer ones I've heard for my acoustic jazz SACDs.

Up Velodyne, UP! ;<)

Tim

CT_Wiebe

07-22-07, 01:51 AM

ribbit

07-25-07, 08:07 PM

Curt, my two SMS-1's have arrived ...

assorted SMS-1 questions:
1) I know to bypass the low-pass crossover, I need to hit reset on the remote while highlighting the crossover frequency ... It didn't work last night (busy) it was late, but any thoughts on why it won't go to bypass?
2) does the sms-1 have an auto-sense on? or do I have to use the 12v trigger? Can I just plug the sms-1 in a switched outlet?
3) the video output is a bit fuzzy both directly connected to the monitor and connected to the receiver, any thoughts?

assorted EQ questions:
1) using the SMS-1, I discovered that I have a severe dip at the 100hz freq. (speaker territory)
a) I boosted the bass tone controls, and it improved a bit, but what am I doing wrong with my speaker positioning?
2) my sub can normally do an f3 of -18, but on the sms1, it only does 23+hz ... can sub location be doing this? or is this the same as JimP's problem on his HGS units that can't be measured below 20hz ...

sms1 software version is 2.1

curt c

07-25-07, 09:17 PM

Hi,
To bypass highlite the crossover frequency and then hit 'select' then 'reset' and 'select' again. With the power switch on, you can switch between on and standby with the remote power button. Plugging into a switched outlet should be fine. No idea why the display would be fuzzy.
A dip around 100hz is usually the case with speakers. Changing height of the speaker's woofer sometimes helps. Many bookshelf speakers turned upside down with the woofer on top and tweeter on bottom will improve the dip. It's there with almost all speakers so I wouldn't worry too much. Sub location can often determine the f3. Have you measured it at 18hz before or are you going by a spec?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

ribbit

07-25-07, 11:35 PM

thanks Curt,
I'll reset everything tonight - with the 890 reset ...
I forgot to change the preset settings and managed to EQ only preset 3, while the other presets are messed up :)

I'm guessing my sub location is crappy then, because I have measured this sub in my room with an f3 of 18. unfortunately, there is no other location for this sub in the room ... at least for music, I won't be needing the low end.

re: bookshelf height, I will have to look at raising my bookshelves - I can't flip them because they are rounded on top. with my luck, it figures! :)

BruceHall

07-26-07, 08:03 AM

TBoyd -- That poster was me. I worked just off San Antonio Rd. (on Fabian Way) & 101, from 1964 to 2003 (the Palo Alto side). I didn't even know there was a shop around there that handled Velodynes. My ULD-15 is also the matte black version - it disappears into the corner very well. I have a heavy table lamp on it - makes the disguise even better. The only way I know it's is there is by turning it off and the real low end goes away.

Hi,
Can't resist chiming in with a piece of nostalgia. The dealer was most likely Sound Goods, and the proprieter was Eric - great guy. They were on San Antonio, near El Camino and the Sears shopping center. He was one of our first dealers and gave us great support. Eric has since passed on and the store is long gone, but evidently the Velodyne products he sold live on.

Bruce

TBoyd

07-26-07, 10:31 AM

Thanks Bruce, for adding the store and owner names to my purchase experience memory at Sound Goods.

In addition to the ULD-18, I also bought my Celstion 7000's from Eric in 1989 IIRC, and they just got replaced two months ago with the Klispch RF-83's. They had a good run, but the ULD-18 continues to drive on!

Tim

CT_Wiebe

07-27-07, 01:52 AM

Now that you mentioned the name, I may have been in that store (I do remember a couple of audio stores located in that shopping center over the years). However, I didn't remember seeing any Velodynes (but I may only have gone there 2 or 3 times - since I was a regular customer of Century Stereo).

Thanks Bruce for some very nice products. My early production UDL-15 is still pumping it out. Since I got the JBL L-96s (from my SO & re-coned), the low end is now rock solid. My bookshelf speakers are good, but their 4.25" woofers just don't hack it in the 80-160Hz octave (and the big Bozaks that I had, in 10+ cu. ft. cabinets, were just too big).

shawndover

07-27-07, 10:05 AM

I just bought a Velodyne SPL-1200r. Other than running the auto-EQ, can anyone offer any advice on how to adjust the setting properly? What should I be listening for in determining the crossover and volume relative to my other speakers (main speakers are Infinity IL-40 towers). Thanks.

curt c

07-27-07, 10:26 AM

Hi,
Assuming this is a multi channel system, I would set the crossover in the receiver and bypass the crossover in the Velodyne by putting the knob all the way to the left. I would also call all my speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer in the receiver's 'speaker set-up' menu. In the receiver I would select a crossover of 80 or 60hz. As to subwoofer volume that is IMO, best handled by ear. With the remote, raise or lower the volume of the subwoofer to blend with your system. Please call me if you need more help or this isn't clear.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

D-Man66

07-31-07, 12:22 PM

Hi Curt, I just bought a SPL-800R and it sounds fantastic. I was replacing a 3 yr old Mirage S10 and I really wanted a smaller cabinet but was worried about losing bass. I didn't have to worry - this thing puts out an amazing amount from such a small box. I havn't used the eq yet, but I have some questions.

1) Does eq adjust volume or phase
2) Does auto eq adjust the 4 preset modes
3) Does the memory for settings (vol, phase eq...) stay memorized during a power outage or if you unplug the sub - and for how long
4) How do you switch between auto eq mode and non eq mode to test the differences.

Thanks,

curt c

07-31-07, 12:34 PM

Hi,
1) No.
2) Yes the 'eq' is global across all the presets.
3) Yes it stays in memory.
4) If you do a 'factory reset' (push presets in the following order;1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1, see manual) you will erase the previous 'eq'. You can then 'eq' again. There is no instant way to switch back and forth.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

boosaman

07-31-07, 10:25 PM

Curt,

I had to move my sub, and thus am now reequalizing it. I am pairing it with 3 Thiel Powerpoints 1.2 and 4 B&W 817 ceiling speakers. In running the eq testing, I noticed that the line is fairly flat around 75db, and at about 80hz it starts to drop, and then goes farther down at 120hz and beyond. I have my speakers set at small, the sub's crossover turned off, and the Lexicon DC-2 crossing everything over at 80hz.

Should the line be straight at higher frequencies? How would it best be to increase this so the line is straight all the way through?

Thanks.

Jack

ribbit

07-31-07, 10:33 PM

curt c

07-31-07, 10:46 PM

Hi Jack,
If Ribbit and I understand correctly, his advice is correct. If this is not clear or we are misunderstanding, give me a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

keithlee21

07-31-07, 11:29 PM

I am debating on purchasing a Refurbished Velodyne Sub. I'm a little leary. Has anyone had any positive or negative experience with Refurbished Velodyne Subwoofers?

JimP

08-01-07, 01:31 AM

boosaman, if I understand what you are saying correctly:

you need to up the receiver volume and down the sub volume (or at least the subwoofer trim on the pre-pro/receiver) til they're about aligned
of course, let's wait for Curt to reply.

If you increase your receiver volume, you'll also be increasing the subwoofer volume as they work together.

Your solution would be to lower the subwoofer volume by either adjusting the gain control on the rear of the sub or by changing the sub level in the speaker level setup menu in your receiver/preamp.

ribbit

08-01-07, 02:16 AM

If you increase your receiver volume, you'll also be increasing the subwoofer volume as they work together.

Your solution would be to lower the subwoofer volume by either adjusting the gain control on the rear of the sub or by changing the sub level in the speaker level setup menu in your receiver/preamp.

exactly.

you need to up the receiver volume and down the sub volume (or at least the subwoofer trim on the pre-pro/receiver) til they're about aligned

i use the terms UP and DOWN because I got used to the Velodyne volume controls that are NOT dials ... my DLS-R and DD use remote volume control.

but I can see how "down" can be missed. I should have used "lower"

boosaman

08-01-07, 09:45 AM

Just to be clear, I meant the "75" that is on the vertical axis on the left side of the grid.

I don't know if this changes anyone's opinion. I will try tinkering with the sub gain on the receiver; I believe that the Lexicon DC-2 is boosting it a bit.

Jack

inventor61

08-03-07, 11:32 AM

I am debating on purchasing a Refurbished Velodyne Sub. I'm a little leary. Has anyone had any positive or negative experience with Refurbished Velodyne Subwoofers?

I'm VERY sad that my ULD-18 died 2 months ago, and I'd get a refurb of this is I knew where I could find one!!

Story: I have a Velodyne ULD-18 (have had it for many years) and the servo device in the cone quit, so now I have a 400W incredibly cool power oscillator. You can't be in the room with it on, it's so loud.

It broke my heart to lose this gem of a speaker because I have never, ever found a sub that sounded better in my theater. Velodyne says they don't have the parts anymore to fix this unit, and I don't have the $$ now to get the DD-18 replacement model.

Does anybody know if I have a repair alternative?

Maybe I could find somebody who has a good speaker but a dead amplifier, because for me it's the other way around.

All feedback about this issue GREATLY appreciated and welcome. My 16x24 theater is really just not the same now.

MrHifi

08-03-07, 11:59 AM

inventor61

08-03-07, 12:43 PM

inventor61,

I can feel your pain. I lived for 2 years with a broken F-1800. It had a loud hum also. Curt was kind enough to get it repaired for me. It too has the accelerometer built into the cone. This rarely fails. On mine the amp needed new diodes and capacitors. If you are handy with a soldering iron, start there. But be careful...THERE are some line voltages floating around in there so be sure you know your way around an amplifier and can tell the power supply from the output stages. I would begin by replacing the power supply bridge diodes and the large filter capacitor. If it fails or you blow the rectifier bridge again, you will need to replace all the capacitors on the board. Try to get a schematic from Velodyne.

Thanks for the response and the shared sentiment. Fortunately, I am a hardware design engineer and a fairly good bench tech too (and fully equipped) so I could easily fix any problem like this, if the parts were available.

Sadly, the failure I have is indeed the accelerometer, according to Velodyne. The oscillation isn't a hum but a tone, at the natural resonance of the feedback loop. The amplifier works just fine, so far as can be discerned.

I just joined this forum and suppose that the Velodyne fellow (Curt?) may jump in here and perhaps provide some more information if it's available. I called Velodyne when this happened and they said they'd send me the schematic ... but I never got it and decided not to pester them, since they told me the speaker cone / accelerometer was not serviceable.

MrHifi

08-03-07, 01:07 PM

inventor,

I believe the accelerometer is attached to the cone. If you could find out how they accomplished the acceleration measurement you might be able to substitute. I used to use accelerometers to measure vehicle motions during severe lateral and longitudinal steering and braking manuvers. These are canned, self contained, large footprint devices that would not be suitable for this application. However, if Velodyne's engineers used strain gauge type transducers to measure spider deflection, I would think one could add or substitute one of these if you knew the electrical characteristics of the transducer.

Earlier in this thread, Curt provided me with a reference to the technical paper that describes the accelerometer based feedback loop and amplification system. I haven't the time to find it now but you might want to search for it using my name rather than Curt's since his name appears orders of magnitude more times than mine. The article spelled it all out but at my age, retention is not my strong point. Good luck my friend. BTW, my specialty is in Physical Mechanics.

bjmfh

08-04-07, 10:26 AM

I was listening to music at a fairly low volume (-48) this morning when my DD-18 cut out on me. I looked to see if the sub had turned itself off because of the low input level. The blue light was still on so I went into the sub's menu to see what was going on. I entered 12345 of the sub's remote to access the menu and all hell broke loose. The sub emitted a very loud boom that shook the house and scared me half to death.

I immediately turned the sub off and unplugged the power cord.

The volume on the sub is set at 18 and receiver's sub level is -5. All the contour boosts levels are all set at 0 db. I have never overdriven the sub at any time. Until now the sub has performed without any issues.

I bought the sub about 6 months ago and it, thank God, is still under warranty. Should I take it back to place I bought it from or contact Velodyne? Also how is Velodyne regarding customer service? I'm not gonna get stuck paying for shipping and handling am I? I bought the sub from an authorized dealer and paid the full 4 grand instead getting it much cheaper on the internet. I sure hope Velodyne doesn't make me regret paying full price.

curt c

08-04-07, 02:37 PM

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service and see if they need to have you return it to the dealer or you send the amp (only) direct to Velodyne. Either way Velodyne will be handling the amp repair or replacement. Call service on Monday at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com. Sorry for the problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c

08-04-07, 02:53 PM

Thanks for the response and the shared sentiment. Fortunately, I am a hardware design engineer and a fairly good bench tech too (and fully equipped) so I could easily fix any problem like this, if the parts were available.

Sadly, the failure I have is indeed the accelerometer, according to Velodyne. The oscillation isn't a hum but a tone, at the natural resonance of the feedback loop. The amplifier works just fine, so far as can be discerned.

I just joined this forum and suppose that the Velodyne fellow (Curt?) may jump in here and perhaps provide some more information if it's available. I called Velodyne when this happened and they said they'd send me the schematic ... but I never got it and decided not to pester them, since they told me the speaker cone / accelerometer was not serviceable.

Hi,
I spoke with you yesterday and gave you the contact info for Dave Santos (ULD-expert). If Dave says it's the servo accelerometer then there is no way for Velodyne to repair your driver. Maybe someone has a spare driver. Unfortunately, we don't. It's been over 10 years since we made any ULD's.
(Dave Santos - Velodyne Service Manager
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819)
Good Luck,
Curt (928-858-4430