View Full Version : * Offical Velodyne Support Thread *
Hi,
For the VX sub;
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer inputs.
2) Put the phase at '0'.
3) In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
4) If possible place the sub in or near a corner, away from any openings.
5) Keep the sub's volume below half way.
This will provide maximum performance for the VX subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Well seems like the SPL1200 series one speaker grills are not available anymore. Ugggh. Anyone know where I can buy one retail wise or who can recover it for me?
flyersfan48 11-30-07, 06:34 PM Looking for a little assistance here. I have a Velodyne VA907. We recently moved and during moving the RCA jacks in the back have become "loose" or something. I can't get a good contact with the RCA plugs so the subwoofer is not operating properly. I have tried everything to get it to work. I took the unit apart and checked everything and nothing is obviously broken or missing. The RCA jacks are in place and don't move when inserting the RCA plugs. However, the only way the unit operates is if you physically move the hold the RCA plugs while it's operating or the sound cuts out and it just makes a continuous thud sound. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for your time.
Hi,
I recommend you call Velodyne service at (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Curt:I was reading on this site that placing a sock in the rear port of some s/w's makes the bass tighter .. Do you recommend this for the vx10? Will it help or hurt anything? Thanks RGAR18...
Hi,
While I don't recommend it, it shouldn't hurt. The likely effect is a little less low frequency output and to some that's tighter.
Curt (928) 858-4430
Nino1919 12-02-07, 01:11 AM Hi,
For the VX sub;
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer inputs.
2) Put the phase at '0'.
3) In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
4) If possible place the sub in or near a corner, away from any openings.
5) Keep the sub's volume below half way.
This will provide maximum performance for the VX subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
for the y splitter, does it matter at what end it is connected? Does it have to be connected to the reciever end or sub end? I have a sub input for my reciever and the vx10 and will be following your recommendation for my setup.
Save your money on interconnects and run a mono line to your Sub, then split at the sub.
Chris
Nino1919 12-02-07, 01:35 AM Save your money on interconnects and run a mono line to your Sub, then split at the sub.
Chris
thanks for the quick reply.
cjwhitehouse 12-03-07, 12:40 PM Hi,
The new SMS software is for the SMS only. The issues addressed are not in the DD software. BTW, the new SMS download (V2.1.3) should be available on the Velodyne website for download by the end of this week.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Any update on this? :)
Hi,
Now I'm told this week for sure.
Curt (928) 858-4430
I just loaded ver. 2.1.3 today for the SMS 1, didn't have time to do a manual EQ but the auto EQ set up no prob and seems fine. The subsonic filter can go down to 1Hz and the slope is adj. to 48 Hz. Thanks Velodudes !
Curt: I need some guidance as to where to set the crossover on my VX10: Its hooked up to a Pioneer pdp5080hd tv directly with no amp or speakers added.Pioneer states that their speakers in the speaker bar are rated at 17W and "around 20hz to20khz".The tweeter is a 2.5 cm semidome type and the woofer is a 4.8 cm x13 cm cone type -per channel..Since I dont have a receiver to adjust,the total adjustment has to be done from the s/w.Thank for the reply RGAR18
Hi,
This will need to be done totally by ear. I would start at 50hz and raise it until it blends well with your TV speakers. My guess is around 80hz will work well with the small TV woofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Hi,
Now I'm told this week for sure.
Curt (928) 858-4430
Not sure when 2.1.3 was uploaded onto Velodyne's website, but its there now.
Ratnrol 12-08-07, 07:43 PM I just want to start off by saying that I am not very technical. I have been searching for answers both on and off this site.
I thought it would be helpful if I was able to describe my situation including, equipment and connections. Please let me know if there is any further info that I need to include to help solve my issue.
The Velodyne CHT-12 is connected to my Marantz SR7200. I have connected a cable from the Marantz Sub-out connection, to the CHT-12 on the RIGHT input (RCA female input).
The CHT-12 is set up as follows:
Low-Pass Crossover = 100 Hz
Power = Auto
Phase = 0
Direct/Internal x-over = Direct
High-Pass Crossover = 80 Hz
My SR7200 is setup as follows:
Surround Mode:
Source Direct: Off
Surr-Mode: Auto
Night Mode: Off
LFE Level: 00dB
Ch Level Control
Front L: 00 dB
Front R: 00 dB
Subwoofer: 00 dB
Centre: 00 dB
Surround L: 00 dB
Surround R: 00 dB
Surr. Centr: 00 dB
Setup1/3: Spkr Size
Setup: Unlocked
Front-L/R: Small
Center: Small
Surr-L/R: Small
Surr.Center: No
Subwoofer: Yes
My sub worked perfectly until I decided to move my equipment. I had unplugged all the wires and then hooked everything back together. Ever since that time, my sub would thump when I turned it on or off. I just ended up turning my sub off as I didn't want to damage it.
I now want to try and solve the problem and would be very appreciative for any help I could get at this forum.
Cheers
Hi,
Is it just a turn/on turn/off thump or does it continue to thump? Does it play at all?
A couple of things to try. Turn the sub off and disconnect the input cable. Turn it back on, does it thump? You could also try running audio 'rca' cables from a CD or DVD player (bypassing the receiver) directly into the two input jacks of the subwoofer. This connection should be made with the sub turned off. Then play a CD and turn the sub on and raise the volume of the subwoofer, does it play bass?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Memphys 12-09-07, 11:13 AM Hello guys,
i'm owning a Velodyne CHT-8R since 3 months and has always worked perfect. Today i noticed that suddenly it was not working anymore; it could be that it's not working since 2 days too because i usually keep it on auto-on and with the blue led light turned off so i could not have noticed it yesterday. I've tryed plugging everything off and waiting some minutes then replugging only the ac cord but it looks like it is dead, no led... nothing, it just doesn't turn on... i've also veryfied id the remote is working but it is so that's not the problem, any ideas? To me it just looks like i have to take it to assistance...
Hi,
You need to return the unit to the dealer you purchased it from or contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com for a service center in your country.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Memphys 12-09-07, 11:32 AM Thank You, so it's confirmed i can't do anything to fix it myself? =\
If it won't come on, there's nothing you can do.
Curt
Ratnrol 12-09-07, 01:12 PM Hi,
Is it just a turn/on turn/off thump or does it continue to thump? Does it play at all?
A couple of things to try. Turn the sub off and disconnect the input cable. Turn it back on, does it thump? You could also try running audio 'rca' cables from a CD or DVD player (bypassing the receiver) directly into the two input jacks of the subwoofer. This connection should be made with the sub turned off. Then play a CD and turn the sub on and raise the volume of the subwoofer, does it play bass?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Thank-you Curt.
I just spent a little time with your advice.
- No thump when the sub is not connected to receiver.
- Tried connecting sub directly to DVD player. Success!
- Wanted to rule out the cable (since the one to my sub is hardwired in my wall) so I connected the receiver and sub with a new cable. No Sub
- I remember seeing another sub connection on the back of the receiver for a pre-amp. Tried connecting the sub to it. Success! :o
The Marantz has two sub inputs. One appears to be for 7.1 input and the other for Pre-amp. Following the instructions in the Marantz manual, it never once dawned on me that I should have tried this earlier. I did start my questions with I am not very technical, but this is embarrassing :D
Thanks for your quick response!
All's well, that ends well. I still do things like that after all these years.
Curt
TrebleVsBass 12-09-07, 04:03 PM For a living room with dimensions 18x13x9 but open to kitchen and dining room where total volume would be a little less then 4000 cubic feet.....
I will be playing at moderate levels only.
And articulate music reproduction is the main target. WAF and cost are the other concerns.
would dd-18 be better in performance than dd-15?
I have read some people saying on the forums that dd-15/18 were a lot more musical than the smaller dd-12/10 regardless of room size and sound level.
Can you guys please explain?
Thank you
I use a SMS-1 to equalize an infinite baffle subwoofer. I'm about to buy a new pre/pro that has the Audyssey full spectrum auto equalizer system. I don't think it will be able to adjust the very low bass as well as the SMS-1, but am not sure if I should run the Audyssey first and then the SMS-1 or vice versa. The Audyssey adjusts things like crossover frequencies, so I can see it could conflict with what the SMS-1 does.
Any Advice?
For a living room with dimensions 18x13x9 but open to kitchen and dining room where total volume would be a little less then 4000 cubic feet.....
I will be playing at moderate levels only.
And articulate music reproduction is the main target. WAF and cost are the other concerns.
would dd-18 be better in performance than dd-15?
I have read some people saying on the forums that dd-15/18 were a lot more musical than the smaller dd-12/10 regardless of room size and sound level.
Can you guys please explain?
Thank you
I believe someone said (not sure if it was Curt) that the DD18 has 30% more output than the DD15.
i'm thinking the DD18/15's are better because they can go lower without compressing (the DD series protects itself from levels too loud by cutting the low end output, by doing so, it keeps THD very low)
for your nearly 4k room, I'd still recommend the DD18 (price difference between the 15 and 18 is too small for the added output) ... remember, the less a driver has to move, the less the distortion. I used to have one in a 2.6k cubic room.
I have read some people saying on the forums that dd-15/18 were a lot more musical than the smaller dd-12/10 regardless of room size and sound level.
Can you guys please explain?
Thank you
I do not have a DD sub but after having replaced my 10” F1000 with the larger 15” SPL 1500R in a 10' x 15' room the sense of ambiance and stage depth are lot more obvious with the larger sub.
Besides recreating what most people refer to as bass and visceral impact, the larger sub completes the audio spectrum even with quieter music that does not have a lot of bass content.
As an example, while listening to small chamber or piano works and then muting the sub the perceived sense of the acoustic space was removed.
So yes, the larger the sub for me has increased my musical listening experience.
I guess the best way to describe it, it is as if you are living in a city and all of a sudden there is a power black, there is an eerie silence, all the industrial and electronic noise that permeates our day-to-day life is removed.
As an audiophile I believe our goal when recreating a musical recording with our audio systems we should try to produce the opposite effect, and that is where the use of the sub comes in and of course, fine tuning of the rest of our system.
For a living room with dimensions 18x13x9 but open to kitchen and dining room where total volume would be a little less then 4000 cubic feet.....
I will be playing at moderate levels only.
And articulate music reproduction is the main target. WAF and cost are the other concerns.
would dd-18 be better in performance than dd-15?
I have read some people saying on the forums that dd-15/18 were a lot more musical than the smaller dd-12/10 regardless of room size and sound level.
Can you guys please explain?
Thank you
For your system go with the DD-18. It has the reserve you need, goes deeper and has less distortion.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
I use a SMS-1 to equalize an infinite baffle subwoofer. I'm about to buy a new pre/pro that has the Audyssey full spectrum auto equalizer system. I don't think it will be able to adjust the very low bass as well as the SMS-1, but am not sure if I should run the Audyssey first and then the SMS-1 or vice versa. The Audyssey adjusts things like crossover frequencies, so I can see it could conflict with what the SMS-1 does.
Any Advice?
Hi,
I have never used the Audyssey but the feedback I get is use the Audyssey first and then fine tune with the SMS or DD.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Kal Rubinson 12-10-07, 12:36 PM Hi,
I have never used the Audyssey but the feedback I get is use the Audyssey first and then fine tune with the SMS or DD.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430I have the opposite opinion and most people I have spoken with prefer to use SMS/DD first and follow with Audyssey. Of course, there's nothing to stop one from using SMS/DD again for a little tweaking.
Hi Kal,
Whatever works, though the logic eludes me. If you already have a nice 'eq curve' with the SMS, what if anything is the Audyssey to do? Since you've tried it I'll take your word for it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Kal Rubinson 12-10-07, 01:00 PM Hi Kal,
Whatever works, though the logic eludes me. If you already have a nice 'eq curve' with the SMS, what if anything is the Audyssey to do? Since you've tried it I'll take your word for it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430Audyssey, like Meridian's MRC, attacks the room's modal frequencies and have less effect on amplitude smoothness than does the SMS/DD. So, my logic is to get the FR as flat as possible before Audyssey puts the icing on the cake. Also, as I said, one can always do another run with SMS/DD, post-Audyssey, for fine-tuning.
Thanks for the explanation.
Curt
Joey0480 12-10-07, 01:58 PM I just joined you guys. I got a velodyne DLS 4000R sub...12 inch and wonderful. Very loud though...louder than I thought...
Dallas777 12-11-07, 12:20 PM Hello -
The subject line says it all.
The normal servo pop at start-up keeps popping every few seconds and does not stop.
I e-mailed service@velodyne.com yesterday morning, but have not heard back from them.
Is this a bum servo?
Is it a field replaceable unit?
Will Velodyne sell me the part so I can fix it myself or do they make you take it to a service center?
Thanks,
Dallas,
My F1800 II poppedd when I plugged it in when I first bought it back in the '90's. In the early 2000's I had a constant hum and occasional oscillation. Velodyne repaired my amp after I removed the amplifier module from the rear. You have to send them everything that is attached to the wood. Call them... They are very accomodating. BTW, mine has worked perfectly after their repair.
Hi,
Sorry you haven't received a reply. This is our busiest time of the year. You will probably need to send in the amplifier. Please contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos. He can answer you questions.
dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Dallas777 12-11-07, 12:51 PM MrHifi - Thanks. It's good to know it worked well after the repair.
Curt C. - Thanks. I'll contact Dave directly.
Billybeek 12-11-07, 01:03 PM Hi,
I am kinda new to this and was wondering is there a procedure or method to determine which subsonic freq. to use with a given sub? I am using a pair of SVS 20-39 CS+.
Thank You,
Bill
The right answer is check with your subwoofer company. I would go with 15hz and 24db slope.
Thanks,
Curt
Hi!
My Velodyne minivee 800i shuts off from time to time (i have to restart it on the backside to get the sound back). Sometimes its sounds realy bad or "dont know the word but its sounds like rain on an umbrella ;) )
Could this be because i dont have a grounded walloutlet?
/Torbjorn
It appears you are overdriving the sub. That will cause it to shut down. The MiniVee 800 is designed for small closed-off rooms only.
Try the following;
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs.
2) Place the sub in a corner away from any openings.
3) Raise the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
4) Keep the sub's volume well below half way.
This is based on the assumption that your sub is hooked to an A/V receiver.
If none of this helps, please contact your dealer regarding service.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
It appears you are overdriving the sub. That will cause it to shut down. The MiniVee 800 is designed for small closed-off rooms only.
Try the following;
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs.
2) Place the sub in a corner away from any openings.
3) Raise the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up.
4) Keep the sub's volume well below half way.
This is based on the assumption that your sub is hooked to an A/V receiver.
If none of this helps, please contact your dealer regarding service.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
I dont think its that because it shuts down when im not playing at all or very low levels too. The dealer didnt find any fault with it so thats why i thought it might have been the outlet cause i can se any correrelation in the "shut downs".
Tried different cables and sources. The only thing that i havent changed is the amp.
It was also this one time when it sounded brooke and i just touched it on the backside and it started to sound healthy again. Thats when the ground thought started. Dont know what to do...
edit: and im using an Y-splitter
At this point I would contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, Ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt
hi! i just bought myself a spl-1200r...:)
can Curt? or someone tell me what the max current the 12v input trigger draws/uses?
i was thinking of trigger the sub from my Pioneer amp..and
the specs on Pio's 12v trigger outputs are rated 12v/50mA max!
regards/H
Hi,
We can take up to 150ma so you're fine with the Pioneer's 50ma.
Curt (928) 858-4430
Hi,
We can take up to 150ma so you're fine with the Pioneer's 50ma.
Curt (928) 858-4430
u mean that the trigger input draws 150mA? (or u mean can handle?...hmm confused..:confused:)
i wanted to now the power current consumption that the velo uses...
so it don't use more than the 50mA that pios is rated to output... :)
/H
Hi,
The 12 volt trigger doesn't draw, it receives and can safely handle up to 150ma, so your 50ma should operate the 12 volt trigger safely.
Curt
Hi,
The 12 volt trigger doesn't draw, it receives and can safely handle up to 150ma, so your 50ma should operate the 12 volt trigger safely.
Curt
ok! thanks for the fast reply!..now onto to soldering one trigger cable then.. :)
regards/Harry
kdyrdal 12-13-07, 06:10 PM Hi all,
I just purchased a CHT-12R (230V version of the DLS-R series) and have a strange problem with its remote - it sometimes works (I mean I can change the volume, phase, presets etc) but sometimes it stops to work and any key pressed does nothing on the amp or DSP. Am I doing anything wrong, is the Velo in an unstable state or is the remote having a problem ? Of course I changed the batteries to brand new ones.
Any suggestion would be appreciated ...
Hi,
Sorry you're having a problem. It could be an issue with the remote or the sub. Try a reset by pushing presets; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. If that doesn't work, return the unit for an exchange.
Thanks,
Curt
AngrySaki 12-17-07, 08:59 PM Hi,
I have a velodyne DPS-12B, and i noticed a rattle a little while ago, and it turned out to be the silver cover on the control panel coming loose. I ended pulling it off, but that dind't completely get rid of the rattle.
When i cover the red circled part with my hand, the rattle goes away. When i put my hand over that part i feel air moving. It's hard to see in the picture but there's a rectangle of plastic seperate from the rest. It seems to be that when the gap between that and the rest of the panel is covered, the rattle goes away.
If i reglue the silver cover ontop, should i avoid getting glue in the gap (although it would probably ensure a pretty tight seal)? or are there any other such precations?
Thanks
Hi,
For your best answer, please contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
question about the SMS-1
I turn off the led display on the SMS-1 using the remote, but everytime there's a power interruption (frequent over here) the led comes back on. any solutions on making it stay off (led display) even after power interruptions?
i don't have a receiver with a 12v trigger yet so I can't use the trigger.
Kal Rubinson 12-19-07, 09:25 AM question about the SMS-1
I turn off the led display on the SMS-1 using the remote, but everytime there's a power interruption (frequent over here) the led comes back on. any solutions on making it stay off (led display) even after power interruptions?
Electrician's tape. :D
Ribbit,
Only option is manually turning it on/off via the power button or a power strip.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Electrician's tape. :D
huh? how? :rolleyes:
Ribbit,
Only option is manually turning it on/off via the power button or a power strip.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
I see. but if I use the 12v trigger, this won't happen even in power interruptions?
The 12V trigger will turn the unit on and off, not standby like the SMS remote, so you're covered.
Curt
Hi,
I've just purchased SMS-1. My amp has 8 position Audyssey Multi EQ.
Is there a definitive answer on which I should run first? I was thinking of running Audyssey first and then SMS-1 EQ - is this the right way to do it?
Hi,
According to Kal Rubinson (see his recent previous post on this question) use the SMS first. He has both and says that's the way to go.
Curt (928) 858-4430
Kal Rubinson 12-19-07, 09:29 PM huh? how? :rolleyes:Cover the LEDs.
Cover the LEDs.
oh. :D
but it's really not the fact that I see them, since the unit is behind me, but i'm afraid the display will burn itself out. :)
Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
vettedreems 12-23-07, 03:25 AM Hello,
I have a FSR-18 sub and I want to use the single XLR sub output from my Anthem AVM-50 processor. (long cable run) Can I just use one of the XLR inputs on the FSR-18? If so, the right or the left or does it matter? Thanks in advance.
Greg
I am looking for a pretty decent SW but haven't been paying attention. :rolleyes:
Both the Velodyne DSP-12B and the Polk PSW505 are going to be on sale on Boxing Day for three Benjamin Franklins.
Asking in this forum I can guess the answer I'll get but, which will be the better value?
Hello,
I have a FSR-18 sub and I want to use the single XLR sub output from my Anthem AVM-50 processor. (long cable run) Can I just use one of the XLR inputs on the FSR-18? If so, the right or the left or does it matter? Thanks in advance.
Greg
Hi,
You can use either XLR input, they are idenical.
Thanks,
Curt
victorl 12-24-07, 01:03 PM Hi bruce, as a owner of a 15 year old f1500, i was wondering if there is any way to try to repair this speaker without having to ship it back to Velo. I had someone check it and they really think it is the accelometer on the speaker which is shot. I spoke to the tech guys @ Velo and they think the same. A replacement with a B stock unit will still set me back at least $700 dollar plus the shipping cost. If i can i would like to try to get the F1500 running again without too much expenditure...
Hi,
If it is the accelerometer or any part of the the driver, there is no replacement or repair available. You could check with Dave Santos, Velodyne service manager on Wednesday and see what he thinks. If it is amplifier related, we can still usually service that.
Dave can be reached at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
kleinbiker 12-24-07, 02:04 PM Hi, what is the difference between the Velodyne VX-10B and VX-10C? Looked around but didn't see any info on it. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Hi,
As far as I know, all VX-10's are the same. 'B' means black. I haven't seen one designated 'C'.
Thanks,
Curt
kleinbiker 12-24-07, 04:28 PM Seems like it's versions, both B and C are gray in color, hence asking:
VX-10C :
http://shop3.outpost.com/product/4674948;jsessionid=2djXdBM8+1zhbC08-3GDrA**.node2?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
VX-10B :
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/383364-REG/Velodyne_VX10_VX_10_10_150_Watts_Front_Firing.html
Hi,
Same unit I think. Certainly the same amp, driver and box. As to color, grey to some, charcoal to others and light black too. As far as I know all the same. I can't verify until Wednesday as these are holidays.
Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays!!
Curt
mailiang 12-24-07, 11:50 PM Seems like it's versions, both B and C are gray in color, hence asking:
VX-10C :
http://shop3.outpost.com/product/4674948;jsessionid=2djXdBM8+1zhbC08-3GDrA**.node2?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
VX-10B :
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/383364-REG/Velodyne_VX10_VX_10_10_150_Watts_Front_Firing.html
I have two B's. They are black, not grey and they are the only ones I've ever seen. The brochure says video gray with a charcoal grill, but who ever wrote it must be color blind. :rolleyes:
Ian :D
Hi Curt, what does the v2.2.2 software update do for the DD series? (previous was 2.2.0)
Hi,
It's a maintenance update to address an issue with the Crestron remote set-up.
Thanks,
Curt
I have two B's. They are black, not grey and they are the only ones I've ever seen. The brochure says video gray with a charcoal grill, but who ever wrote it must be color blind. :rolleyes:
Ian :D
Hi,
Based on the feedback I've received I think it's safe to say the current one's are black. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks,
Curt
NO1B4ME 12-25-07, 05:58 PM Hi,
If it is the accelerometer or any part of the the driver, there is no replacement or repair available. You could check with Dave Santos, Velodyne service manager on Wednesday and see what he thinks. If it is amplifier related, we can still usually service that.
Dave can be reached at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Hi,
I have an SMS-1 that just died on me. How do i go about sending it in to get fixed?
Thanks
Hi,
Contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt
mailiang 12-25-07, 06:16 PM Hi,
Based on the feedback I've received I think it's safe to say the current one's are black. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks,
Curt
I think the confusion comes from the fact that the enclosure is black, but the grill fabric is gray.
Ian ;)
Hi,
It's a maintenance update to address an issue with the Crestron remote set-up.
Thanks,
Curt
thanks Curt
Rene725 12-25-07, 08:48 PM In need of help
I have a 4 months old Velodyne DD15.
It was working fine in my HT set up.
Now there is not output, no sound at all coming
from it.
I do not know if by mistake I touch a botton on the
remote control or on the Pre/processor or on the TV
menu (audio/speakers set up) coming from my audio
source a Sony blu Ray player.
Thanks
Hi,
If the DD will take remote commands, do a reset by pressing 8-9-0 on the remote. Otherwise check all your system set-up and connections. If you have made any changes in equipment or set-up, that could be the problem. A quick trouble shoot is run a CD/DVD (analog audio output 'rca' jacks) directly into the input 'rca' jacks of the DD, then play a CD or DVD, if it woofs it's working okay. You could also do the self-eq by pressing 3-2-1 on the remote and see if it does a signal sweep. Make sure all your speakers are called 'small' in your pre/pro and indicate that you have a subwoofer. If none of these work, contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Hi,
I have tried the new v2.2.2 software update on my DD12 but shows up as v2.2.0 on the monitor. Is that normal for this software update ?
Thanks.
Hi,
It should show up 2.2.2. Did the blue DD light blink as it was downloading? You must have the proper (straight-thru) RS-232 cable and have the DD in the receive mode by holding down the two volume buttons on the amp panel while turning on, as directed.
Thanks,
Curt
Curt,
I'm looking for some advice in augmenting my sub set-up. I own both a DD-15 and an SPL-1200. Previously I had the DD-15 in a small (1500 cu ft) room where it was more than enough. Now I have moved and my HT with the DD-15 is in a 7500 cu ft room. Naturally, the DD-15 doesn't have the impact in this room that it did in the smaller one. So I'm thinking about either adding in my SPL-1200, getting another DD-15, or maybe upgrading to a DD-18. I know it's difficult to generalize, but I'd like your thoughts on these choices. If I do go to a 2-sub configuration can you give me some guidelines on placement and connection (e.g. do I daisy chain the 2 subs or go to both directly from my controller?)
Mark.
Hi,
My recommendation would be two DD-18's. You could always start with one. Of the options you offered, two DD-15's will perform better than the DD-15 with the SPL-1200. Since you already own the DD-15 and the SPL-1200, I'd certainly give that a try. As to placement, since you will be somewhat undersubbed regardless I'd go with corners if possible. You could place both subs together in one corner or perhaps two front corners. Daisy chain or separate doesn't really matter unless you use two DD's and want to control both with a single remote. I suggest you give me a call when I return from vacation on January 2nd or later and we can go over the options at length.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4439
Hi,
It should show up 2.2.2. Did the blue DD light blink as it was downloading? You must have the proper (straight-thru) RS-232 cable and have the DD in the receive mode by holding down the two volume buttons on the amp panel while turning on, as directed.
Thanks,
Curt
Thanks Curt, I did not read carefully enough that first popup dialog.
MCarr33 12-28-07, 01:36 AM Hello Curt,
Thanks for all the help you provide here. I have the DLS 3500, noticed it turned itself off after I had my receiver's volume turned down low for a while. I have the signal being fed thru my receiver's LFE out (receiver is Onkyo 605, and have set the LFE output signal to +10 db); should I split the signal into two RCA outs and connect to both left and right on the 3500? Thanks in advance.
Hi,
Yes use a "Y" splitter at the sub end of the cable, into both subwoofer inputs.
Thanks,
Curt
ghgoldberg 12-28-07, 11:55 AM (I have been lurking here for quite a while. The level of support that Velodyne offers is simply outstanding. Thanks to Bruce, Curt, and the Velodudes!)
Anywho... I have just ordered an SMS-1 (to drive my ol' reliable CT-120 with a Onkyo TX-SR875). So, while I'm waiting for the gizmo, I'm rounding up the cables. I have an old Monster Interlink digital audio cable that I am thinking of using (AVR ---> SMS). I am thinking that for sub cables, the most important thing is probably shielding efficiency. So these digital cables should be perfect.
Curt, anybody have any opinions?
WARNING: Once I get my new toy, I am afraid you'll all be hearing from me regularly. ;)
Hi,
Any normal audio interconnect cables will be shielded and work just fine.
Thanks,
Curt
ninja12 12-28-07, 07:13 PM Should I calibrate the DD-18 with my mains first before I execute the auto calibration through my receiver, or should I execute the auto calibration through my receiver first and then do the calibration of the DD-18 to my mains last?
Hi,
Do the auto calibration with your receiver first. Then the mains with the DD.
Thanks,
Curt
ninja12 12-28-07, 09:32 PM Ok. I was kind of concerned about doing the calibration with the receiver first because I may have to make adjustments to volume on the sub to match the mains. So, if I do that, then that would throw off what the receiver did. However, if I do the sub calibration first, then I will not have to adjust the volume on the sub when the receiver does the calibration.
ninja12 12-28-07, 09:54 PM I see on Velodyne's site that v2.2.2 is available for DD. However, the literature, manual, and data sheets still refer to v2.2.0. So, does v2.2.2 really exist for DD? If v2.2.2 is available, what are the new feature(s)?
Hi,
It's a maintenance update to address an issue with the Crestron remote set-up.
Thanks,
Curt
Ok. I was kind of concerned about doing the calibration with the receiver first because I may have to make adjustments to volume on the sub to match the mains. So, if I do that, then that would throw off what the receiver did. However, if I do the sub calibration first, then I will not have to adjust the volume on the sub when the receiver does the calibration.
Hi,
I really don't think it matters much so go ahead and do the DD first. My experience with receiver's auto-eq has not been good so I don't use them.
Thanks,
Curt
gregginflorida 12-28-07, 10:24 PM deleted by author :)
ninja12 12-28-07, 10:33 PM Hi,
It's a maintenance update to address an issue with the Crestron remote set-up.
Thanks,
Curt
Ok. As always, Thanks.
ninja12 12-28-07, 10:35 PM Hi,
I really don't think it matters much so go ahead and do the DD first. My experience with receiver's auto-eq has not been good so I don't use them.
Thanks,
Curt
Ok. Once again, Thanks.
gregg,
Was there a question in there somewhere?
gregginflorida 12-29-07, 07:17 AM ha, sorry
I was wondering if I return the sony will the VX10 be a step up?
I suspect the sony was designed to be loud and thunderous but not very musical
Sorry .. I am cross posting (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12621406&postcount=36) but just realized this thread was proabably the better place to ask this question:
OK ... I have a tracking number for my DSP-12B and my DSL-5000R is on backorder so I haven't actually seen the goods yet ...
BUT!
There is a discrepancy in the DSL-5000R specs! :eek:
The Future Shop spec (http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0665000FS10078617&catid=) says the builtin amplifier is 600W but the Velodyne spec (http://www.velodyne.com/products/specs/dls_r.html) says it is 1000W.
I've never before suspected Future Shop of under-hyping a product.
Future Shop also says the warranty is "2 Years Parts & Labour" but Velodyne says "Three years (electronics) Five years (drivers)".
I am confused.:confused:
Anyone? Anyone??
have velodyne f 1500b sub . Main board is ok but all wires that come from woofer 4 wires ribbon ( servo) and 3 wires from driver , ir control diode were cut of from connector.so tere no way how accelerator ( servo) cable- that is 4 wire ribbon i s connected... velodyne guy - Pete, Dave Santos they don't have schematics .... 4 wires are I think : 5 v 12v gnd and signal... but how are located on ribbon ??? and were are coreponding pins on amp board ???
we don't have repair velodyne service in Poland
darek
Hi,
I would contact Dave Santos ( dave.santos@velodyne.com ). If he doesn't know perhaps he can find out. I certainly don't know.
Thanks,
Curt
Sorry .. I am cross posting (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12621406&postcount=36) but just realized this thread was proabably the better place to ask this question:
Hi,
The SPL-5000R has 1000 watts RMS. It is the SPL amp. Originally we called it 600 watts but it has always been 1000. The new warranty is 3/5 effective the first of this year. They need to update the info. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks,
Curt
eightninesuited 12-29-07, 06:05 PM Just wanted to come in here and say that I just joined the Velodyne club. Picked up the 5000R yesterday!
My GF and I tried to take it upstairs to my bedroom theater and she didn't want to risk it. So I'm waiting for my brother to drop by and help me take it up.
hI!..
i have recently bought the spl-1200r to go with my Kef Iq series (iq9,iq6c,iq8ds) of speakers.. @ a room size 16ft width x 9.8ft deep x 6,5ft in height..
sub placed @long front wall beside one front speaker...crossover @80Hz and main speakers selected small on amp.
The problem is...when listening to normal pop/rock etc...it sound awsome:)
deep..pounding..well integrated with fronts.....:)
but when listening to some faster music like heavy/power metal (that i do 90% of the times).....i can't get it to work properly..:confused:...i then can clearly hear where the bass is located/pinpoint the sub+..it seems a little slow/after?....
what might be the issue?...wrong placement? to big sub for room?..
should the sub be placed at the short wall preferably? or corner?..
regards/Harry
Hi,
I would experiment with volume and placement. The sub is not too big but the volume may be too high. I don't listen to heavy metal so all I can suggest is experiment. The SPL-1200R is a very accurate subwoofer, never described as slow. I would certainly try the corner. If that doesn't work try the short wall or maybe nearfield.
Good Luck,
Curt
all guys from velodyne like Pete, Rob, Dave, are not able to help me.. i try to get someting from 2 weeks and i got fsr 15 f15 schematics but still nothing about servo connection....
ghgoldberg 12-30-07, 12:49 PM I just got an HGS-15X that I will power with an Onkyo TX-SR875 thru an SMS-1.
Could (Should) I spike it?
It's on a hardwood floor. House is built in 1929... It'll probly pull the nails out of the floor. :D
Hi,
I would experiment with volume and placement. The sub is not too big but the volume may be too high. I don't listen to heavy metal so all I can suggest is experiment. The SPL-1200R is a very accurate subwoofer, never described as slow. I would certainly try the corner. If that doesn't work try the short wall or maybe nearfield.
Good Luck,
Curt
ok! thanks! That is a smaller problem right now....
the biggest problem at the moment is that my spl1200r doesn't turn on!:eek:
suddenly it decided to not turn on anymore... ant suggestions?...blown fuse?... common fault?
panic...:eek:
EDIT: pulled out the amp...yes blown fuse..but don't know why though..hm strange.. didn't have any 4A fuses@home...tried with a F3.15A..it works again!..:) the stock fuse is it an ordinary F4A250v? or an FF4A250v? there seem to be some letters before **F4A250v that i can't read..
thanks!/H
ghgoldberg 12-30-07, 01:08 PM A few questions on setting up.
I guess it would be best (better noise rejection) to use the balanced (XLR) line from the SMS to the sub (as opposed to the RCA input)?
Any idea where I should set the SMS subsonic filter (considering the sub's built-in 15 Hz filter)?
Any other suggestions for setting up...I'm all ears.
Hi,
Either 'rca' or balanced will be fine. Set the subsonic at 15hz, 24db slope.
Thanks,
Curt
Hi,
I have a DD-18 that will not power up. It failed during the playback of some wide dynamic range firework explosions. There were 2 or 3 very loud pops and the sub just stopped working. I removed the amplifier from the back of the sub and found a 12A 250V 5mm x 20mm glass fuse had blown. It is marked with brand name SLEET. Is it rated to be a slow or fast acting type of fuse? What is the equivalent Bussmann or Littelfuse replacement part.
Thanks,
Ken
Ken,
Please contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851.
Thanks,
Curt
hi Curt! (or anyone else)
whats the best/proper way to find optimal placement for the velo-sub?
i bought a RTA analyzer to use in my HT...could be handy :)
Should i find a place where the sub outputs most SPL or find a place where it has the smoothest freq respons?, and after that run the auto eq so it don't have to work so hard?
( i saw that on my current sub-location (before running eq) i have a 15dB peak @ 50Hz)
thanks!/Harry
Hi,
Assuming your sub has adequate output for the room, then go for the smoothest frequency response. A 15db peak at 50hz is a big problem.
Thanks,
Curt
JMachan 01-02-08, 02:03 PM Hello,
I've owned a VA-810 for, gosh, almost 15 years now. Great little sub. One thing that always annoyed me, though, was the inability to bypass crossover. Does anyone know (Curt?) if there's a way to disable it at the amplifier, etc.? I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and experiment, but if I knew up-front that it was hard-wired and impossible, I'd wouldn't go to the trouble.
Thanks in advance for anyone's advice/time/effort.
J
Hi,
Sorry, it's hard-wired and there's no way to remove it from the circuit.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
splitslim 01-03-08, 10:41 PM Hi,
I just purchased a 5000R. Great sub, but I'm experiencing bass cut outs during quiet listening. I have the crossover on the sub set to direct, and on my Pioneer 1014TX at 150hz. It seems when listening to my HT under quiet scenarios (talk, news, etc) my bass response from the 5000R cuts in and out. During music and heavy bass scenarios it works fine.
I'm using a pretty hefty sub cable from the receiver if that matters, y split out to both white and red on the sub.
Is this unit defective? Should I return it or is it a question of levels being too low for it to play? Also, I find it takes a while to turn on under any circumstance (blue light turns on, but no bass plays), using the auto on feature. Disabling the auto on feature makes no difference.
Help?
Thanks!
splitslim 01-04-08, 09:20 AM Test
splitslim 01-04-08, 09:24 AM Hi everyone, sorry for the ^ test message, but I posted a lengthy reply yesterday and it didn't show up.
I recently purchased a 5000R and am having a small problem with it. It is in movie mode, with the crossover on the sub on DIRECT and 150hz on my 1014TX Pioneer receiver. During low volume listening, it cuts in and out. If you're familiar with the receiver, anything -35 and up experiences cut outs during low frequency playback. I've tested an old Polk sub I have, and it does not cut out during low volume playback. The 5000R never cuts out when the volume is at a decent level however, or a music track is being played. Is this a defective unit or does this sub need to see a higher input level then most? How can I remedy this solution?
I'm connected to the receiver via a good quality cable then a y split to the sub.
Thanks!
Hi,
In your receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer jack to about three fourths of the way up and back off on the sub volume to compensate. Keep in mind that if the program material has no bass content, it will go into standby after about 15 minutes.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
splitslim 01-04-08, 11:51 AM Thanks for the reply Curt.
Is there any particular reason I need to do this? Is this due to an issue with my receiver or the sub itself? Also, is it common with this model?
Thanks!
If you're not getting enough input signal, then the unit will shut down on low level listening. Many of the receiver's don't output enough especially if set-up automatically.
It's not a problem with either unit, rather having them interface correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
account 01-07-08, 12:12 PM Hi~!
I've just got myself a brand new SPL-1200R, an upgrade from my SPL-1000R.
I've notice something while testing this sub. First, after using the EQ feature, I found that the same movie track that I play now is less punchy, bass still can be felt but seems to be lacking of the ''punch" I had before the EQ. All the settings is same as before, including volume output from the sub and from the amp, except the sub have gone through the EQ. Is this normal? Can someone verify it? :confused:
Secondly, this sub is definitely punchier than my previous SPL-1000R. But whenever I increase the output of the sub, bass become boomy, so the output is more or less limited to a certain amount. Due to this, the "punch" is more or less same as what I can get from my previous SPL-1000R. Is there anyway I can increase the "punch" while not creating the boomy bass? My sub is place along the side of the wall at the left of listening area, firing towards the front, tilted slightly inwards to the room (I've attatch a photo of my floorplan and speakers layouts). Does it have to do with placements? Where the sub should face? Or some other adjustments? Thanks~! :)
Hi,
Your total area is close to 3500 cubic feet which is somewhat large for the SPL-1200R to deal with. The auto-eq has probably eliminated some of the peaks that provided the punch you preferred. I would move the sub closer into the corner you have it in, facing the listening area or locate it in the front left corner facing listening position. In your case since you are undersubbed you might see if you like the effect better without the EQ. Because of the large area the sub will be somewhat limited as to output and you need to avoid turning it up to where it becomes 'boomy'.
In addition to placement, I would try the following;
1) In your receiver call all your speaker's 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer.
2) In your receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three-fourths of the way up.
3) Do a factory reset in your subwoofer by pressing presets, 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 on the remote (see manual).
4) Use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of the subwoofer.
5) Do not raise the subwoofer's volume much beyond factory reset. A few pushes is fine.
Hopefully this will maximize the sub's performance for your system.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Hi.
I have a uld II power series servo controller that went bad. I am not sure what happened but the servo controller blew several fuses and a capacitor. I have replaced the fuses and the caps, but still have a short somewhere else in the controller.
I was hoping to get a copy of the schematics for the controller to see where to go from here? Are any available for download? Also are there any gotcha's I should be aware of when replacing components?
Thanks.
Hello,
Let me define stuck. Was just about to project a movie and I noticed the amber light was lit under the brandname. I never use the night mode so I tried to use the remote and set it off. It wouldn't respond. Than i noticed it wouldn't respond to any key on the remote. So I decided to turn the sub off and disconnect the a/c plug for a while. Nothing helped. Than I connected a monitor to the video out and it just showed flickers, nothing else.
So I went and checked the velodyne web site just to find out there was an upgrade made available (2.2.0 > 2.2.2).
I decided I'd give it a try even though my unit was unresponsive. I don't know how to interpret that but the software aknowledged a successful upgrade. But the unit is still stuck in the same situation as before.
Any idea? Is there a kind of hard-reset?
Thanks:o
Hi.
I have a uld II power series servo controller that went bad. I am not sure what happened but the servo controller blew several fuses and a capacitor. I have replaced the fuses and the caps, but still have a short somewhere else in the controller.
I was hoping to get a copy of the schematics for the controller to see where to go from here? Are any available for download? Also are there any gotcha's I should be aware of when replacing components?
Thanks.
Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service manager, Dave Santos; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. He can answer your questions.
Thanks,
Curt
Xtrips,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
account 01-08-08, 10:50 AM Hi,
Your total area is close to 3500 cubic feet which is somewhat large for the SPL-1200R to deal with. The auto-eq has probably eliminated some of the peaks that provided the punch you preferred. I would move the sub closer into the corner you have it in, facing the listening area or locate it in the front left corner facing listening position. In your case since you are undersubbed you might see if you like the effect better without the EQ. Because of the large area the sub will be somewhat limited as to output and you need to avoid turning it up to where it becomes 'boomy'.
In addition to placement, I would try the following;
1) In your receiver call all your speaker's 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer.
2) In your receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three-fourths of the way up.
3) Do a factory reset in your subwoofer by pressing presets, 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 on the remote (see manual).
4) Use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of the subwoofer.
5) Do not raise the subwoofer's volume much beyond factory reset. A few pushes is fine.
Hopefully this will maximize the sub's performance for your system.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Hi Curt~!
Do you mean to raise the volume of the receiver for the subwoofer channel to about +7db or +8db?
Due to some limitations, I can't place the sub to the front left corner facing the listening area. But if I move the sub closer to the listening corner as you suggest, the placement would look somewhat like the photos I've attach. As you can see it's firing towards the couch which is about 11 inches away from the driver of the sub, and the wall quite near behind. Will it be ok for the sub? Sorry, I'm quite new to this whole home theater thing.. :confused:
Or if I were to place the sub right in the middle of the same wall firing inwards to the room, would it be better? At least the person sitting on the couch nearer to the wall would not find the sub too loud? I presume..? Sometime ago I happen to place my ear too close to the driver while it's playing some loud soundtrack and it's still hurting until now… :(
Thanks for any help~! :)
Raise the sub channel volume in the receiver to about +6. The only way to really be sure about placement is to try it. Your problem is the opening into the other room. Try the different placement possibilities and go with the one that works best.
Thanks,
Curt
ghgoldberg 01-08-08, 08:11 PM I am a bit perplexed about Preset 6 on the SMS-1. If the definition of Preset 6 is "EQ Defeat" why are there settings for it in the System Settings screen, and why is there a System Response screen (with EQ sliders) for it? :confused:
The system settings are different than the equilization. Yes you can have system settings for preset 6 but not equilization. Most users like the ability to switch between eq'd and non-eq'd, for comparison.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
ghgoldberg 01-08-08, 08:30 PM I understand about the setting screen. I was mainly curious about the EQ screen that allows setting for Preset 6. I guess it's the user's option to keep Preset 6 uneqalized (or not).
Hi,
The EQ page will not allow you to EQ preset 6. 'Setup' will EQ globally presets 1 thru 5, or you can individually EQ presets 1 thru 5 by taking the cursor to 'setup' and using the arrows to advance to the individual presets, all but number 6, which is EQ DEFEAT. If this isn't clear, please call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
ghgoldberg 01-08-08, 09:57 PM If you cycle thru the presets in the EQ page, that's true. However, if you press the Preset 6 button on your remote when in the setup page, you can indeed select 6. I have just done that, adjusted the equalizers and SAVED it to preset 6! (I was sure to change it back later) ;-)
This is not a big deal, of course. As long as I don't adjust the curve for 6.
(I am using firmware 2.1.3)
BTW, this SMS gizmo is terrific. It is of great help in tweaking my low-end.
thomsens 01-09-08, 01:55 AM sorry for the basic question...I just got a DD-10. How would I know if it is undersized for my room? My room is odd shaped with a bunch of doors to other rooms that could be closed or not. When open, the space is dramatically increased. Would the sub simply be very distorted? How would I know for sure? I did the calculator online and it was on the line between the 10 and the 12. I'd get the 12, but for me, the smaller the better for my space.
thomsens,
Your question(s) don't really have a simple answer.
To say that a subwoofer is undersized to some people would mean that it doesn't have the capacity to pressurize a room. To others who aren't that focused on pressurizing a room, as long as it gets loud enough for their taste and exhibits good sound quality for their normal listening, that's good enough.
As far as distortion is concerned, if you are constantly running your subwoofer where its above the level where the frequency response is flat (the more you overdrive a sub that's too small for an installation, the more likely this is to happen) then you are undersized. But don't forget that distortion can also occur due to the acoustical characteristics of the room. If its a dedicated home theater, then there usually isn't a problem adding treatments. If its your living room, this is where you choose to either add a bunch of acoustical treatments to the room(if you're not single, you probably will be) or decide that this is as good as its going to sound without detracting from the looks of the room.
thomsens 01-09-08, 03:46 PM Thanks Jim...how would I know I'm running it above the level where the frequency response is flat? One problem I have is that the test pattern for the sub makes my temporary main's woofers go crazy - to the point of adding audible noise. I'm not sure what to do about that. I hope my eventual speakers don't exhibit this behavior.
BTW - I prefer tight bass, extending the audible range vs. flabby shake the house type of bass I often hear in HT.
Hi,
It sounds like you haven't activated the high-pass crossover in your receiver (assuming you're using a A/V receiver) by calling your speakers 'small', that way the signal sweep won't make your mains sound bad. In a sub bigger is almost always better and I would recommend the DD-12 minimum, which will have much more output and reserve. It is also as tight as the DD-10 and will actually have less distortion. If you need help in setting up the DD, or have questions give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
dhoff002 01-09-08, 07:58 PM I currently have an spl-1000R, in a small 1500 cubic foot room.
My current setup is an arcam avr 350, arcam dv 137. My front speakers are spendor S5e, Spendor C5e's, and Spendor SR5 surrounds.
I am trying to improve my sub, main integration. The spl-1000r used to sound great with music when I had kef iQ5's, but with the spendors it just seems like it can't keep up, or it stands out more.
So for music I just listen with my mains, without my sub. The spendor S5e's are only 52Hz-20kHz ± 3dB, -6dB at 40Hz. They don't seem to be lacking bass for music, but I do miss the full sound with the sub.
http://www.stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/904spendor/index.html
Would it be better for me to get an SMS-1 and try to improve the sub integration with my mains, and upgrade latter, or just get a sub that is closer in quality to the rest of my setup.
My sub is actually my cheapest component; actually it cost just a little less than my center channel.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
Dan
Hi,
In my opinion the sub is in the same ballpark, quality wise, as your speakers. Are you running your speakers full range or thru the receiver's high-pass filter. I would try with the filter if you're not doing so. It's usually easier to integrate that way. Location of the sub as well as crossover and sub volume all come into play when trying for seamless integration. If you get the chance, give me a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
dhoff002 01-09-08, 09:28 PM curt,
Well when I am using my sub for HT. I have everything calibrated to 75 db, with my spl meter. I also did run the velodyne eq, with the mic at the seating position. I kept the sub volume low around 35-40, and used the receiver to set the level. I have used 60, 70, 80 to cross. I picked my postion with test tones and move the sub around the room for the best sound (my opinion), and ended up with the back left corner, for placement. At this point I ran the eq. Then I played a test tone cd to set the phase, which sounded the best at the seating position.
I am connecting out of my receiver, via the sub out, and using a y connector to the sub.
The spendors, are a great sounding speaker, with a clear, wonderful sounding mids, and actually they have very musically coherent fast bass, and smooth, yet detailed hi's via seas tweeters.
I was wondering if I shouldn't upgrade to a dd, or add an sms, or I guess
I could switch to a rel, or a jl fathom, but I really like velodyne.
Dan
Hi,
Are you using the high-pass filter on your speakers? Your speaker's have very small woofers (5") in a bass reflex design and could be interfering with the sub. I would call all the speaker's 'small' and cross them over at 80hz to begin with and see how that works out.
Curt
thomsens 01-10-08, 09:41 AM Hi,
It sounds like you haven't activated the high-pass crossover in your receiver (assuming you're using a A/V receiver) by calling your speakers 'small', that way the signal sweep won't make your mains sound bad. In a sub bigger is almost always better and I would recommend the DD-12 minimum, which will have much more output and reserve. It is also as tight as the DD-10 and will actually have less distortion. If you need help in setting up the DD, or have questions give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Ok - maybe I'm missing something. I have a Denon 4308 with the Audessey stuff. So I thought that I should run the setup on the sub first, then run the Audessey on the Denon after the DD-10 has done it's initial room setup. I disabled the filter on the DD-10 as the manual suggested so that the "small" setting on the reciever could dictate/manage the crossover points thinking it would work better that way when I used the Audessey system to setup all of the speakers together. The "mains" problem I had was when I did the initial setup on the subwoofer (i.e., the receiver wasn't involved yet). Am I missing something or should the receiver be involved in the sub room correction stuff?
Hi,
I'm not following you. The 'self eq' only signal sweeps thru the sub so it would have no effect on your mains. The 'auto' or 'manual' eq is routed thru your receiver and that's where the receiver's high-pass filter will keep the lower part of the signal sweep out of your mains. I suggest you call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
eightninesuited 01-10-08, 12:13 PM Curt, where is the Velo 5000R tuned at? I know the EQ modes boosts it to 24hz. Can it get lower?
The reflex tuning is around 30-35hz. In some rooms it will go down to the mid twenties, no lower.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
xterr77 01-10-08, 01:43 PM Hi guys
i just got this sub and when it powers off if i get
really close to it i hear a very slight hum.
is this normal.Tks.
Xterra77
I assume you mean when it goes into 'standby' in the auto on/off mode. It is normal in that mode to hear a slight transformer hum. When totally turned off, it should be silent.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
xterr77 01-10-08, 02:37 PM Hi Curt
yes it is in the standby mode and it is silent when it is off
thank you for the quick response.
xterra
I have an HGS-18 sub. in the new house we built custom cabinetry in the theater room (carpeted floor). unfortunately the sub won't fit in the cabinetry when it's upright but manages to fit if I put it on its side. is this something that will be okay to do with the HGS-18? it's front firing so i didnt see any obvious issues. has anyone ever done this with their front firing velodyne (irrespective of model) with any issues?
Hi,
Top, bottom, side - not a problem. Go for it! It's been done before.
Curt (928) 959-4430
vjarnot 01-10-08, 10:03 PM I'm research subs for my 2 channel music only system, speakers are Dynaudio Contour 1.3SE (Dynaudio claims 37hz-27KHz +/-3dB. So far I'm tending to lean towards Velodyne...
I think my setup sounds great, so my main concern is to not degrade that at all - that's more important to me than strengthening the low end. My budget is somewhere around the SPL-800R or SPL-1000R range. I'm thinking about the 800R vs the MiniVee in part because the remote would allow me to easily defeat the sub if I felt it wasn't invisible enough...
Should I bother, or just save my pennies for a DD-10 (or two minivees/spl-800rs)?
Hi,
I would need more information to give any recommendation. I suggest you go to www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and finally the'wizard' and get a better idea as to sizing, or give me a call. Of the subs you've mentioned, (without knowing more) I would recommend the SPL-1000R or the DD-10.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
lalittle 01-12-08, 05:39 AM I have two Velodyne FSR18's in my setup. I normally leave the main power switches on and just turn the units on and off with the remote. I do, however, shut the main power switches off if I'm going to be gone for several days, which happens every month or two. Recently, I returned from a trip and when I powered them on, ONE of them made a relatively loud humming that I hadn't heard it do before. Over the period of about 2 minutes, the hum slowly decreased until it was no longer there, at which point I only heard the familiar "rushing" sound of the servo system. I've noticed similar behavior twice now, so it wasn't just a fluke.
As I said, the sound goes completely away after about two minutes, and the sub seems to function normally after this happens, but I'm concerned that something may be "going bad" on this unit. This is definitely not something I've heard before, and only one of them does it, so something is "odd" with the one unit. My question is: How concerned should I be, and what steps should I take at this point? If the unit "settles" after a couple minutes, does that mean it's okay? I know that things like capacitors can go bad after a while, so I'm wondering if the problem is something like this.
The only other detail that "may" be significant was that it got a bit colder than usual the last few times I was gone (40's), so the unit was probably rather cold when I started it up.
I called Velodyne tech support and left a message (as per the instructions), but it's been several days now and I haven't heard back yet.
Thanks for any help/feedback with this,
Larry
Hi Larry,
Since your subs are quite old I would guess it's a capacitor. I suggest you contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos for advice. dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Hello,
I have the DLS 5000R. Did great until today. It is not working properly and the 2 year warranty just expired. I has only been used 10 months (sat in its box for 14 months). Anyway, it makes a garbled noise. I can sense there is some imput because the noise goes along with the other speakers. I've tried switching it off, unplugging and trying to reset it. No luck. Some times it appears to completely lock up and not even the remote works. Some times it seems as if the remote is working, because the blue light responds to the commands, but still garbled low intensity noise. What is the next step? Thanks.
Gonz
Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
lalittle 01-12-08, 09:49 PM Hi Larry,
Since your subs are quite old I would guess it's a capacitor. I suggest you contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos for advice. dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Thanks -- I'll try again to contact him on Monday.
Larry
Hello,
I have the DLS 5000R. Did great until today. It is not working properly and the 2 year warranty just expired. I has only been used 10 months (sat in its box for 14 months). Anyway, it makes a garbled noise. I can sense there is some imput because the noise goes along with the other speakers. I've tried switching it off, unplugging and trying to reset it. No luck. Some times it appears to completely lock up and not even the remote works. Some times it seems as if the remote is working, because the blue light responds to the commands, but still garbled low intensity noise. What is the next step? Thanks.
Gonz
thanks...I'll call Monday
Hi,
I have a Velodyne FSX-12 that I bought some years ago. It worked fine until about a year ago. Since then it sporadically would work. When it did, it worked fine. Lately it has stopped working altogether. I have tried turning it off and on, messing with the volume levels, etc., but no joy. It is dead as far as sound goes. Is it even repairable or is it just a massive floor statue now?
Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
mark s j 01-14-08, 12:03 PM I posted this as its own thread, but thought I should post here also. Any comments are appreciated:
My subwoofer just started making popping noises on its own. I had left the room for awhile with a television program on. When I returned, the subwoofer was making popping noises that seemed to correlate with heavy sounds coming through the sub.
I have tried a variety of things; including shutting off, unplugging, etc. with no improvement. I also found that with the speaker disconnected from the AV system, the popping continued. And it seems to be from any noise in the room; especially if you lightly tap/pound on the subwoofer case. Its as if something is picking up the noise from the room and causing the subwoofer to react with errant sound.
Can anyone shed some light on this before I contact Velodyne for support?
Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
thomsens 01-14-08, 09:30 PM I seem to have an incompatibility between my Denon 4308Ci and my Velodyne composite out. When I disconnect my sub and connect another composite device, it shows up on the tv. when I connect the sub directly to my tv, the sub screen comes up. so both appear to work, just not with each other. I plan to try s-video, but any ideas why this might not work? I did a sub reset 8-9-0 and it didn't help.
AcousticXtreme 01-14-08, 09:41 PM I think my factory refurbished DPS-10 is dead. When I turned it on, I get the blue light flashing. I tried turning it off and on again - include unplugging the unit. However, it still does the same thing and there is no sound coming out of it. I got the unit about 2 and half years ago, but only used it lightly. So, I'm disappointed that now it is dead.
Hi,
I'm sorry to hear about the DPS. You will need to contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
nikki_canada 01-16-08, 02:42 PM I have a 3000 cu ft dedicated 2ch room treated with ASC bass traps and panels. Would using 2 DD-18s be overkill for music?
I doubt the two subs would even come close to breaking a sweat, but I'm wondering if two subs would provide for effortless extension and slam. I currently use a single DD-15 and am satisfied, but there are times when I wish I had a little more impact. Besides the added complexity of integrating multiple subs, is this a case of too much of a good thing?
lalakersfan34 01-16-08, 02:47 PM I have a 3000 cu ft dedicated 2ch room treated with ASC bass traps and panels. Would using 2 DD-18s be overkill for music?
I doubt the two subs would even come close to breaking a sweat, but I'm wondering if two subs would provide for effortless extension and slam. I currently use a single DD-15 and am satisfied, but there are times when I wish I had a little more impact. Besides the added complexity of integrating multiple subs, is this a case of too much of a good thing?
Others here will be able to give more advice, but IMO the best move would be to get another DD-15. Co-located, you'll get another 6dB of output, and located in different locations, you should get another 3-4dB. That will probably give you the extra dynamics you desire, and reduce compression. Of course, two DD-18's will give even more output, but I think it's a lot more cost-effective to keep the DD-15 you already have and add another. Just my two cents.
Hi,
Well as I sometimes say, "Too much is never enough". As the previous post suggests an additional DD-15 would certainly be the economical way to go. I love the DD-18 and it's capability to dig deep. A pair of DD-18's will certainly provide a lot more impact. You might want to start with a single eighteen and add another if needed.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
nikki_canada 01-16-08, 03:42 PM Thanks for the replies.
The DD-15 is going into my HT room, so I need to get something to take its place in the 2ch room. It actually seems silly because the DD-18 would probably get better utilized for movies, but 2ch is really my passion.
It's good to know that you don't think two DD-18s are overkill. Now I need to convince my wife of that. :confused: :)
no it's not overkill and if for some reason you do think that, maybe you can use one for each side (stereo subs) ... that would be a good pitch to the wife as well :)
hi!...again.. :)
does the spl1200r velo remember it's EQ settings if power cord is unplugged?
i have run the EQ...and now when i look with my RTA... the eq is the same as before running the eq (it have not adjusted eq or forget the settings):confused: or is there something wrong with my sub?
Hi,
The SPL will maintain the EQ setting without power. If your frequency curve doesn't change at all before and after EQ, then I would take it to your dealer and have him check it out. If your curve is relatively flat, then it may not change much with auto-eq.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Hi,
The SPL will maintain the EQ setting without power. If your frequency curve doesn't change at all before and after EQ, then I would take it to your dealer and have him check it out. If your curve is relatively flat, then it may not change much with auto-eq.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
ok..hmm on previous runs i got almost flat respons..
but now i have moved the sub to better place (with more straight freq respons to begin with) and run the eq...
i still though have 7dB peaks that the eq haven't adjusted....
strange...:confused: are there any other resets than the 1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1 press? (since i don't have my retailer nearby it's 2000km to my dealer :( )
Hi,
There are no other resets. There are situations where the EQ can only do so much. I would move it back where the EQ was effective and see if it still does well there. If so, I'd leave it there.
Thanks,
Curt
Hi,
There are no other resets. There are situations where the EQ can only do so much. I would move it back where the EQ was effective and see if it still does well there. If so, I'd leave it there.
Thanks,
Curt
ok i'll try that tomorrow (to my neighbours horror..i live in an apartment.. :D)
the strange thing is that the eq on previous sub location adjusted 10dB peaks perfectly flat...:confused:
what is the eq range on the velo?
and how is the settings stored?...are there any internal battery back-up or?
Hi,
The eq range for the SPL auto-eq is -13/+6. The eq is stored in permanent memory.
Thanks,
Curt
Hi,
The eq range for the SPL auto-eq is -13/+6. The eq is stored in permanent memory.
Thanks,
Curt
ok ..so the auto eq should have adjusted my 7dB peak @ 50 Hz easily....hmmm will make another run tomorrow and then re-measure without un-plugging the sub....
thanks!
I want to put a sub in a floor level built-in cabinet opening that is 20x22x22. Mixed HT/music use. 3200 cu/ft. room. Two questions: First, was thinking of SPL-1500R. Good choice? Best alternates? Should use sealed sub type? Second, should I line interior of cabinet with carpet, foam or felt, both to reduce vibration and sound waves?
Thanks.
Hi,
I agree the SPL-1500R is a good choice for your room size and listening requirements. The alternatives would be the DD-15 or the SC-15 passive sub driven by the SC-1250 outboard amplifier. A sealed box works out better for intalling in a built-in cabinet. Be sure to provide a grill opening equal to the size of the driver. Lining the interior of the cabinet is a good idea and carpet or foam is fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
nikki_canada 01-17-08, 08:42 AM Hi Curt,
I just placed my order for 2 DD-18s. Would you have the dimensions of the shipping box? Thanks again for your help.
Andy.
Hi,
The shipping dimensions for the DD-18 are;
H=31", W=25", L=27"
Curt
nikki_canada 01-17-08, 10:57 AM Thanks Curt. Hope I can easily fit this in the trunk of the minivan. Can't wait to get them.
ninja12 01-17-08, 10:20 PM I have had my DD-18 for some time now. As always, I like to sometimes go back and look over things to see what I can improve on. I happened to be glancing through the manual and in Appendix C on page 46 under THX Certified Pre-Amp/Receivers: part of the first sentence says "please connect the "(THX)" input on the back panel of the DD-15/DD-18 to the "Sub Out" connector of the THX Pre-Amp/Receiver.". So, my first question is: Is the XLR LFE INPUT the "(THX)" input?
My next question is about calibration. I follow the instructions in the manual about performing the calibration. The set-up menu with the frequencies on them appears, and I let the auto calibrate make the initial adjustments. Once the auto calibration is done, I fine tune a little manually. I get my graph within 3db across frequencies. The volume for the set-up is normally set to 5 which puts the graph around 76. All is good. However, I notice that the volume for the pre-sets has increased. So, I look at the test graph for pre-set 1 and the graph is off. The frequencies coming from the sub is higher then the frequency from my main speakers. So, my second question is do I have to calibrate every preset? I thought that was the purpose of the setup was to set the other presets accordingly. If so, then when is, for example, preset 1 no where close to how the graph looked for the setup screen?
As usual, thanks for your responses.
Hi,
Yes the LFE input can be considered the THX input. As to Eq calibration, volume changes can change the EQ curve to a degree. This is normal. While most users do a global EQ across all presets you can do a seperate EQ for each preset if you wish. These could be for different seating locations, different sources or your own custom curves. You can also make the volume the same on all presets if you choose. All the presets can be customized if you choose to do so. If this is not clear or does not answer your question, give me a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
jazz_24_7 01-18-08, 11:28 AM Does anyone use the remote sensor on the rear of the DD series to control their subwoofer?
I'd like to use the output from my Universal Remote MRF-350 hardwired to the sub for on and off functions instead of a flasher on the front.
One post indicates that the Xantec micro link 490 is compatible. I'd just plug in the output from the MRF-350 but I'm nervous I'll wreck something.
Any info or specifications on the remote sensor input would be appreciated.
Hi,
The DD external remote jack is to extend the IR receiver to a different location, using our extender kit. It would still be utilized with the DD remote. The Xantec has to do with the SPL series, not the DD.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
jazz_24_7 01-18-08, 11:58 AM I understand. Is the extender kit is a is availible from Velodyne as a part?
Thanks.
Yes the extender IR cable is a Velodyne part. To order a part from Velodyne call (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
jaymerkramer 01-18-08, 01:56 PM I have a VA-907 that has a bad driver, I just spoke with Velodyne about a replacement driver. They have them in stock and I am going to order it next week(pay day). I have to say everyone I spoke with there was very helpfull and actually answered on the first ring, excellent service! Does anyone know what the ratings are on the Velodyne drivers? Are they 4ohms or 8ohms?
Thanks for any help
:)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41A44DKYJDL._AA280_.jpg
The image above is my $99 TOASTER. Note that it has a digital readout for the shade setting.
http://velodyne.com/products/p_images/Prod-detail_DPS-12.jpghttp://velodyne.com/products/p_images/Prod_detail_DLS-R_blk.jpg
The above images are my two new $1700+ Velodyne Sub-woofers. How do you tell what the volume setting is?! Count the damn blinkin lights. :eek:
BTW, it looks like Futureshop has dropped Velodyne. Only one model left (http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/subclass.asp?logon=&langid=EN&catid=10554)(DSP-12B) and they only have 13 left (http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0665000FS10049371&catid=). :confused:
I guess the Boxing Day Sale was intended to dump their inventory.
I have a VA-907 that has a bad driver, I just spoke with Velodyne about a replacement driver. They have them in stock and I am going to order it next week(pay day). I have to say everyone I spoke with there was very helpfull and actually answered on the first ring, excellent service! Does anyone know what the ratings are on the Velodyne drivers? Are they 4ohms or 8ohms?
Thanks for any help
:)
Hi,
The replacement driver for your subwoofer is 8 ohms.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41A44DKYJDL._AA280_.jpg
The image above is my $99 TOASTER. Note that it has a digital readout for the shade setting.
http://velodyne.com/products/p_images/Prod-detail_DPS-12.jpghttp://velodyne.com/products/p_images/Prod_detail_DLS-R_blk.jpg
The above images are my two new $1700+ Velodyne Sub-woofers. How do you tell what the volume setting is?! Count the damn blinkin lights. :eek:
Ya, I thought they would have had blinking lights on a toaster long ago too, hate burning my toast in these dark early morning Canadian winters.
gregginflorida 01-19-08, 12:29 AM I am about to purchase the VX-10...but I understand you can't turn off the auto on/off function? On my Sony SA-W3000 (that I will be returning...boomy and not very musical) you can disable that function. On the Sony you could hear the click of the amp turning on and off and it was quite distracting.
Does anyone know if the velodyne is silent when it the auto on/off kicks in? And how long without a signal will it remain "on?"
thanks
Gregg
lalakersfan34 01-19-08, 12:56 AM I am about to purchase the VX-10...but I understand you can't turn off the auto on/off function? On my Sony SA-W3000 (that I will be returning...boomy and not very musical) you can disable that function. On the Sony you could hear the click of the amp turning on and off and it was quite distracting.
Does anyone know if the velodyne is silent when it the auto on/off kicks in? And how long without a signal will it remain "on?"
thanks
Gregg
I own a VX-10, so I might be able to help. I'm not positive your experience will be the same as mine, because there has been an amplifier revision on the VX-10 (something to do with input sensitivity), but I'm not sure if mine is using the old or new amp. At any rate, I can give input based on my own experience.
My VX-10's auto on doesn't "click" or make any noises when the auto on engages. It's not noticable at all. In terms of how long the VX-10 stays on with no signal, it seems to stay on for about 10-15 minutes without a signal. Hope this helps.
my servo sensor is dead ( f 1500) velodyne say that they dont have any for replacement. is there a way to fix it ,or does somebody have one for sell or trade seris f and uld have a identical sensor chip mayby somone dave a dravier from f serie or uld to sell ??? realy need only sensor...
gregginflorida 01-19-08, 09:33 AM My VX-10's auto on doesn't "click" or make any noises when the auto on engages. It's not noticable at all. In terms of how long the VX-10 stays on with no signal, it seems to stay on for about 10-15 minutes without a signal. Hope this helps.
Helps a lot...thanks...I was worried that it would be clicking on and off regularly...Oh, I just won on eebay wed night a pair of Infinity Beta 20s for $132 + $40 for shipping...they should sound great with the velodyne!
account 01-19-08, 10:57 AM Hi,
I've a few questions regarding to my SPL-1200R EQ features. With the SPL series, there's four presets (movies, R&B - Rock, Jass - Classical, Games) of EQs. While each have it's own characteristic, like the EQ Frequency, Volume Differential, EQ Level Etc.. (I've attatch a file that shown those in the manual).
I would like to ask about this Subsonic Filter Frequency. From what I've found out, Subsonic Filter means "Allows you to block (filter) ultra-low frequencies that your subs cannot reproduce" (correct me if I'm wrong). So if I use the Movies EQ, the Subsonic Filter Frequency would be at 25Hz, while the Jass - Classical EQ would be at 15Hz. So does that means if I use the Movies EQ, all the frequencies 26Hz and below will not be produce from the sub? Even if the soundtrack contains frequencies say... 18Hz or even 15Hz? Will I be losing some of the Dynamic range and the punch in the soundtrack of the movie that's suppose to be reproduce?
If what I've said is correct, does that means that using the Jass - Classical EQ would offer me a more dynamic movie soundtrack? and maybe more punchy as it'll go even lower than the Movies EQ? As the SPL-1200R is capable of reproducing frequency down to 22Hz. Any suggestions? Or experience?
Thanks for any help~! :)
Hi,
The subsonic filter does block lower frequencies. Your SPL cannot reproduce 15 or 18hz. Humans don't hear much if any below 30hz. By blocking some of the lower (inaudible) frequencies the sub will have more output in the frequencies that can be heard. It's a trade-off, but a good one. Look at the presets as an additional feature and use them as you like. There will be additional punch and volume with the 'movies' preset whereas the 'jazz/classical' preset can indeed go lower but you won't really notice it. Purist's will often only use preset #3. I use preset's #1 for movies and preset #3 for music.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
lalakersfan34 01-19-08, 01:29 PM Helps a lot...thanks...I was worried that it would be clicking on and off regularly...Oh, I just won on eebay wed night a pair of Infinity Beta 20s for $132 + $40 for shipping...they should sound great with the velodyne!
Nice! Congrats. And BTW, while the VX-10 won't be perfect (after all, it's only $150), it should sound a ton better with your music than the Sony :). Enjoy!
gregginflorida 01-19-08, 08:26 PM yup...can't wait for the beta 20's (eebay Item number: 130184885377)..still have to order the velodyne...and return the sony to BB...I have until the 31st
I'm sure the vx-10 will be great for me in my apt...after all it was only novemeber when I had a lower quality 9 year old sony receiver...and an 8" sony sub
and I'll use my infinity rs1s as rears along with my infinity entra center...it all should sound great on my new denon avr-1707 receiver
thanks
denon AVR-1707 receiver:
http://usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/3253.asp
Infinity Beta 20
http://infinitysystems.com/home/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BETA20BKS&cat=BFS&ser=BET&Language=ENG&Region=USA&Country=US
Has the software been upgraded in the SMS-1 I have been out of the loop if it has should I upgrade and what does the upgrade do.
Hi,
It was upgraded some time ago. It lowered the low frequency roll-off and addressed a potential input overload in some systems.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Hi,
It was upgraded some time ago. It lowered the low frequency roll-off and addressed a potential input overload in some systems.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Great news now how do I find the directions to down load it do I need a special cable. :) And will it affect my settings if I do so and make me go though the setup process again. :eek:
ralfwolf 01-21-08, 04:05 AM With Fry's selling them at $129, I've decided to pick up a second one to try and solve my placement issue. Basically, I can't seem to generate enough bass to my listening position without rattling things in the room like our fireplace screen. My main use is for music and the occasional movie. My mains are B&W 602s so I'm looking to use the subs to fill out the lower end. My question is, should I hook them up with splitters to the LFE output or chain my mains off of them. My first instinct is to use the LFE output but wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions or experience. I'm driving them with a B&K AVR307. I know this will probably bring up the one big sub or two small sub argument but I don't think one big sub will solve my problem with room harmonics.
Hi,
The best method is use a 'Y' (1-male, 2-female) at the receiver. Take the receiver's volume control for the subwoofer to near maximum and use a 'Y' (1-female, 2-male) into each subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
ralfwolf 01-21-08, 12:54 PM Thanks Curt. That is as I thought. Follow-up question... Several previous posts talk about an update to the input sensitivity on the amp. Is there a way I can tell from the box what version of the amp I have. Maybe something like serial number greater than XXX. What is the official change and is it something I should even be concerned about? I don't seem to have a problem with content triggering the auto on feature but if this update increases the amp's actual input sensitivity then I'd want to make sure I get the updated one.
Hi,
There was a sensitivity input increase but I do not have serial number's involved. Both work fine, the difference would be in the sub's volume control setting and on either design, give it plenty of input for optimum performance.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Velodyne F-1800RII is there a way to repair or replace the woofer?
engtaz
Hi,
On Monday, contact Velodyne service; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 3851 to see what options are available.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
I found a problem with the SPL 1200R. Since it is remote control sub, you can change the volume. However, my Comcast Digital HD converter remote also changes the volume when you power it off or on. Also, last channel recall button also triggers the volume control. They typically raise the volume on the sub by two or three numbers every time you push those buttons. I have tried two different Comcast remotes and they both do it.
Is it is going to require a different IR receiver on a different freq and possibly a different RC.
I found a problem with the SPL 1200R. Since it is remote control sub, you can change the volume. However, my Comcast Digital HD converter remote also changes the volume when you power it off or on.The 5000R remote also turns my DVD player on/off, etc. :eek:
I didn't notice it affect my Moto STB but will experiment.
Dlswebz 01-26-08, 10:12 PM Hi guys,
New to the group. Just acquired an FSR-10, but have no User Manual. The Velo website doesn't seem to offer a download for that model. Anyone/anyplace I can download one from, without too much trouble? Thanks. Dave
Hi,
On Monday, contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848, they should be able to get you one.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Krazykaj 01-30-08, 01:49 AM Hi,
I own a DD18 and have had it for a couple of years now, working flawlessly .... however just a few weeks ago, the little blue status light down the bottom that flashes when you change modes/volume etc. the left half of that light died. Then, just yesterday, the other half of the light died so I have no blue light left at all.
While i suppose i could live with it, not having the light is a bit annoying as I'm not sure if i am changing volume, or if the unit is on etc.
Plus this thing is meant to be a beast ... so having it in fully working condition would be nice :)
It there an easy way to replace this light?
I live in Australia so we probably don't have the same type of support team you have in the US.
Furthermore, this is not a small unit and I really don't want to have to unplug the whole thing and lug it around unnecessarily!
I'd try fixing it myself, but I just want to ask first before I go and fiddle and possibly break something....
Comments and input would be most welcome
Thankyou for you time
Cheers
KJ
Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos; dave.santos@velodyne.com to determine the best method to repair your light.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
cwall64 01-30-08, 03:30 PM I have a FSR18BV that was built Sept. 17, 1998 and it has given me many (9+) years of wonderful bass. My question is I came back from 3 weeks in New York and started to watch a movie and the sub came on automatically and started to pop and crack. I am looking for some trouble shooting tips, or whether it is worth trying to get repaired (Houston, TX location). I have unplugged from the wall for a day then reconnected still popping and cracking when it is turned on. I took the cloth cover off and there is no visible damage. Or just bite the bullet and buy a newer model sub...
Hi,
We still service the FSR-18. I recommend you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. You would only need to return the amplifier, which is easily removed.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
cwall64 01-30-08, 04:55 PM Hi,
We still service the FSR-18. I recommend you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. You would only need to return the amplifier, which is easily removed.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Thank you Curt, I will email them right now!
Chris
I have a Velodyne VLF 1012 that just started to buzz like some sort of interference, thunder sound coming from the box with only the power plugged in. No audio inputs. What could be the issue? Tried another outlet too.... and still buzzes with no connections other than power. When I play a movie, the sub sounds fine.
Hi,
I suggest you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
gregginflorida 01-31-08, 11:39 PM I'm ready to buy my VX-10.
Is vanns an authorized dealer? has anyone here ever used them? They seem to have the lowest price.
and if I don't use them, any suggestions for on line dealers?
thanks
gregg
lalakersfan34 01-31-08, 11:43 PM I'm ready to buy my VX-10.
Is vanns an authorized dealer? has anyone here ever used them? They seem to have the lowest price.
and if I don't use them, any suggestions for on line dealers?
thanks
gregg
Vanns is an authorized dealer, and so is B&H Photo ($144.99+ shipping at B&H). It's a great sub for that price, IMO.
gregginflorida 02-02-08, 06:15 PM I ordered the VX-10 from Vanns....$169...free shipping and no tax...should be here next fri 2/8
Gregg
sadhill 02-03-08, 05:13 PM Hi,
I am new to this forum. Just got a new DD15 a few days ago. Works great, although I could not get rid - at the moment - of a 60 Hz bump in the response curve, with according sliders adequately moved and manually adjusted full down.
What is the meaning of the adjustable "Q" parameter ? Could it help to adjust it ? I did not find any information about "Q" in the users manual...
Looks also as if DD15 is sometimes turning off by itself when it should not when "auto on" feature is selected, even during music with low freq... or at least the "Velodyne" frontlight is dimming by itself, and it seems the DD is no longer active. Any solution apart of switching off this feature ?
Thanks for advice...
Hi,
The 'Q' determines how wide the bandwidth you are affecting when you move a EQ bar up or down. The lower the 'Q' number the wider the frequency spectrum, the higher the 'Q' number the narrower the range. You can also in the 'parametric' mode, move the EQ sliders together as needed for more EQ power. Sometimes it is necessary to change location of the subwoofer to get rid of a nasty peak or dip.
You may need to provide more input for the DD to stay on. This is accomplished by using a 'Y' splitter into both inputs and raising the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver/prepro. If possible give me a call tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
sadhill 02-04-08, 08:29 AM Thanks for explanation about "Q".
As far as the input level is concerned, I have no possible separate adjustment on the amp output : I use the "pre out" output (it's no HC but a hifi setup).
I'll ring up if necessary, are you East or West time ? (calling from western Europe)
Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt
Anyone have a copy of Velodyne CT-150 owners manual?
Thanks
engtaz
Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
They can help you.
Thanks,
Curt (928)858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
ralfwolf 02-04-08, 01:15 PM I ordered the VX-10 from Vanns....$169...free shipping and no tax...should be here next fri 2/8
Gregg
I recently picked up one (actually two) of these and thought I'd share my experience.
I have to say I was quite impressed with the performance of the VX-10 for the price. I was trying to replace a really old 15" sub (non-vented design) which required a new amp and probably a new driver to make it sound as it did 8 years ago. Also, my needs have changed since then. Today, I'm more concerned about accuracy than volume. When these went on sale at Fry's recently, I picked one up based on reviews here and elsewhere online. Needless to say, compared to my old sub, it was tiny. I plugged it in and gave it a test run. It took a while to get the right level for my room since the response rolled off much earlier than my old sub. That meant to get the right levels at lower freq (<60Hz), I had to crank the gain up to a point where higher freq (60-100Hz) would boom. It didn't help that my room has a harmonic at around 85Hz. Thought about returning it but all other alternatives were around $500 or more. Instead of returning it, I decided to buy a second one. Well, that gave me loads of options in placement and tuning. It took almost 2 weeks to get it right but I think I finally got it this past weekend. I've not got reasonably flat response from around 40Hz all the way up to 100Hz where my crossover is set. With the help of the notch filter in my receiver, I was able to tame my worst harmonic and the two subs help level the rest of the range with some careful placement and level setting. I do miss the really low extension of my 15" sub but extension much below 40Hz is simply not realistic for a sub this size. In reality, not much of the material I listen to has much at that level anyways. So I am now a believer of multi sub configs.
Good luck.
I just bought a DPS10b and the Onkyo 605 with Polk M20's in the front and M10's in the rear with a CS1
Center.
Quick Question. Is the Sub Always suppose to feel like its on and never off?
Like when people are just talking it feels like the sub is still on I still feel like my room shaking. I have tried turing it down on the Receiver -10db and on the sub as well
When watching Saving private ryan it seems like the sub never goes off or just watching Regular TV (was testing something) I just feel bass ALL the time.
I thought bass was when something "loud" would happen and you would feel it. Like bombs going off.
Seems like there is always rumbing going on.
Any suggestions or is this what a sub should be doing? I use to have HTIB sub and that thing sucked it felt it was never on. I know this is not top of the line sub but it fit into my budget. I got a good price on it. Thanks to a buddy.
Thanks
Chris
ralfwolf 02-04-08, 04:38 PM I just bought a DPS10b and the Onkyo 605 with Polk M20's in the front and M10's in the rear with a CS1
Center.
Quick Question. Is the Sub Always suppose to feel like its on and never off?
Like when people are just talking it feels like the sub is still on I still feel like my room shaking. I have tried turing it down on the Receiver -10db and on the sub as well
When watching Saving private ryan it seems like the sub never goes off or just watching Regular TV (was testing something) I just feel bass ALL the time.
I thought bass was when something "loud" would happen and you would feel it. Like bombs going off.
Seems like there is always rumbing going on.
Any suggestions or is this what a sub should be doing? I use to have HTIB sub and that thing sucked it felt it was never on. I know this is not top of the line sub but it fit into my budget. I got a good price on it. Thanks to a buddy.
Thanks
Chris
Check your crossover settings. If you've got the crossover setting too high, it can result in too much of the dialog going to the sub. How do you have your sub connected and what are your speaker settings?
EDIT:
Forgot to comment on your statement about your assumption that your sub should only fire when something loud happens.. Actually, your sub will fire whenever the source sends the signal to the LFE and/or whenever the source has material below your crossover frequency to any speakers you've configured as "small" on your receiver.
Check your crossover settings. If you've got the crossover setting too high, it can result in too much of the dialog going to the sub. How do you have your sub connected and what are your speaker settings?
My sub is connected with one cable from the reciever to the sub.
All my spearkers are set to small
Onkyo 605
Polk M20's for the front
Polk M10's rear
Polk CS1 center
Come to think of it I think the crossover was set to 120 or 80 on the receiver. I hope we are talking about the same thing. Should I try like 60 or lower?
What changes should I make?
Small to Medium room.
This is all new to me..
Chris
ralfwolf 02-04-08, 04:55 PM My sub is connected with one cable from the reciever to the sub.
All my spearkers are set to small
Onkyo 605
Polk M20's for the front
Polk M10's rear
Polk CS1 center
Come to think of it I think the crossover was set to 120 or 80 on the receiver. I hope we are talking about the same thing. Should I try like 60 or lower?
What changes should I make?
Small room
This is all new to me..
Chris
120 vs 80 is a huge difference. For your front speakers, 80 is as high as I would go. For the rears, 80 is as low as I would go. Not sure if your receiver allows individual crossover settings for each speaker but if so, then set the fronts to between 60Hz and 80Hz and set your rears to between 80Hz and 100Hz. If there's only one crossover setting for all speakers, then use 80Hz. Then make sure you set all of your speakers to "small". Sometimes, this setting is implicit when you set a crossover value. If it's currently set to 120Hz, than I'd say that's a bit high and could be causing what you are describing. Sub placement might also be an issue but it's best to start by getting your crossover settings correct.
120 vs 80 is a huge difference. For your front speakers, 80 is as high as I would go. For the rears, 80 is as low as I would go. Not sure if your receiver allows individual crossover settings for each speaker but if so, then set the fronts to between 60Hz and 80Hz and set your rears to between 80Hz and 100Hz. If there's only one crossover setting for all speakers, then use 80Hz. Then make sure you set all of your speakers to "small". Sometimes, this setting is implicit when you set a crossover value. If it's currently set to 120Hz, than I'd say that's a bit high and could be causing what you are describing. Sub placement might also be an issue but it's best to start by getting your crossover settings correct.
Thanks for your Help. 100% better now. My setting and placement of the sub were all messed up.
Sooooooooo much better now.
I set everything to 80hz and small for speakers. And moved the sub around.
Thanks for all the help...
gregginflorida 02-04-08, 11:16 PM I recently picked up one (actually two) of these and thought I'd share my experience.I have to say I was quite impressed with the performance of the VX-10 for the price. Today, I'm more concerned about accuracy than volume.
Good luck.
Thanks Ralwolf!
I just aquired a used set of Infinity Beta 20s...incredible imaging and soundstaging. Me only real caviat is the bottom end. That's not saying they don't have any, they do. But a 6.5" woofer, ceramic/aluminum or not has it's limits. I have to admit I was surprised how well the drum kick on The Eagles CD, Hell freezes over came thru (Hotel california). I find myself saying...just need a little deeper bass. I can crank it to medium/loud levels during the day as my apt complex looks like a ghost town. and the apt next door is now vacant. But I still live in a one bedroom apt and my living room is 13 x 18. Like you, accuracy is far more important than loudness or shaking the walls.
Gregg
___________________________
Receiver: (new) Denon AVR-1707
Fronts: Infinity Beta 20
Rears: Infinity RS1
Center: Infinity Entra
Sub (soon): Velodyne VX-10
___________________________
jjubinvi 02-05-08, 11:51 PM Hi,
I finally decided to upgrade my sub (an 8" onkyo that came with a HTIB...yikes) this week -- I found an SPL-1000R for a great price at Tweeter, but unfortunately the only one they had was "open box" (no manual/mic/remote). They assured me that it had been reconditioned and would work as new...unfortunately, when I got it home I realized that the blue LED power light isn't on. This isn't a huge deal, as I know it's working (sounds incredible!!!) and I've tested the levels/calibrated it with my SPL meter. However, looking at the manual online it seems as though the light is necessary to confirm that many of the functions found on the remote (i.e. presets/volume level/etc.) have been processed. I have a Harmony 880 universal remote, and was able to add all of the remote codes using their software database...they seem to work as they should (on/off, mute, the diff. eq presets...) -- there is also a "light" command, but it doesn't seem to do anything when pressed. In the meantime, I ordered a Mic and Remote from Velodyne...I'm not sure if I need the original remote in order to activate the light?
In any case, I'm hoping that the harmony "light" code/function is somehow wrong and the original remote will activate it. Wishful thinking perhaps. Is this something that would be covered under my warranty and/or easily remedied? I love the sound of this sub thus far (and I haven't even been able to run the eq yet!) and would hate to have to return it. I've never bought an item "open box" before so I'm a little paranoid that something is wrong with it...however, aside from the light, I belive that it is operating as it should (although I have no experience with mid/high end subs so who knows!). Thanks in advance for the help!
Best,
Joe Jubinville
Hi,
You called me yesterday and I advised you to wait until you received the proper remote and mic. The remote has a button that will deactivate the light and I suspect that is the problem. The subwoofer is covered under Velodyne warranty, so one way or another we can take care of the problem
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
jjubinvi 02-06-08, 04:05 PM Thanks Curt,
Whoops...I had no idea that you were the one with whom I'd spoken yesterday..I had read through some of the thread and noticed that someone from Velodyne was answering questions so figured I'd give it a shot -- in any case, thanks for answering my question yet again :) I did order the microphone as well as the remote...I can't wait to hear the results once it's eq'd for my room. Again, I can't say enough about the spl-1000 so far...my multichannel dvd-a/sacds sound infinitely better! Bluray/Hddvd soundtracks aren't to shabby either...
Thanks again and I'll PM you an update once I receive the remote/mic - any idea how long they usually take to arrive?
- Joe J.
Hi,
I would think you should have it in about a week. If not contact Velodyne parts at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
nikki_canada 02-07-08, 12:56 PM Hi Curt,
I got my pair of DD-18s and slowly getting them dialed in.
One question I have is in regards with the volume control. I'm using the speaker level inputs, however the volume that is optimal for my room is at 4. Is there a simple way to lower the input sensitivity so that I can have greater granularity with the volume adjustment?
BTW, you are correct about no such thing as too much :).
Thanks,
Andy.
Hi,
There is no way to lower the input sensitivity and '4' is fine. Some with 18's are at '2' and '3'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Bruce,
Thanks for replying to the board...I'm currently using a Paradigm PDR-12 sub. I went to my local stereo shop tonight and they let me borrow a SPL II series1000...It sounds good, but I'm not getting the punch and tightness that I was told I would get. I have it hooked up to an Onkyo SR-805 receiver. The room size is 23 (L) x 10 (W) X 7 (H)....one small opening. Is this too much sub for this room? I just don't hear too much of a difference to justify the $$$....I'm sure something is wrong somewhere. Any suggestions??
Thanks, Mike
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