Hi Mike,
If you don't mind, I'll jump in here with my opinion. I'm assuming your current Paradigm sub is a bass reflex design. The usually elevated response associated with port tuning is perceived by many as 'additional punch', whereas the flatter (more accurate) response of a sealed box is often leaner sounding. The SPL-1000 is by no means too large for your area. I use the SPL's in smaller systems all the time and for my taste, they are superb. I would suggest experimenting with location, crossover and volume setting and spend some time listening to the differences before making a final decision. Also, if possible, feel free to call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858- 4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt..I meant to put your name too......I forgot to mention, they did not give me the remote or the microphone last night to EQ it...I stopped this evening and picked those up...Do you think I should hear a definate difference after using it..I just figured a top notch sub would have blown me away from the initial set up.

Thanks, Mike

Hi,
Okay, you have a SPL-R, not a SPL-II. Depending on your room, there could be a significant difference after the auto-eq runs. It is a very sophisticated 6-band equilizer.
Keep in mind location is critical for a subwoofer so try different spots and keep it away from the room opening.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Yikes...I checked the model # on the back of the borrowed sub and it is a SPL-II, not an SLP-R...is there asignificant difference in the two..I don't want to give up quite yet. I tried it again tonight, changing the freq. on the sub to 80hz and 100hz...I just can't get sufficient volume out of the sub....it rumbles etc...but not earth shaking...I have to have the know 3/4 of the way up for anything that would be okay...I checked and have the sub plugged into the pre-out on the receiver like it stated to do...I'm going to check tomorrow to see if they have an SPL-R I could try out...they did have the remote and mic that they gave me...wrong sub for it though. Let me know, Mike

I have a VA1250X that I bought years ago, I love the speaker but the foam surround finally started deteriorating. What is my best option..to refoam, or et a replacement driver. Does Velodyne have any replacements available and if so what kind of price range am I looking at spending. Thanks in advance.

Brett

Curt,

I'm not having much luck with the SPL1000...I was talking to a friend of mine who just bought the DLS4000r sub and loves it.....My room is 23 (L) X 10' W) (7 (H)......I'm looking a tight, punchy sound....Any suggestions on this?

Oh, an Onkyo SR-805 will be used with mostly Blu-ray, HD discs and the sub will be used 90% for movies.... Thanks!

curt- Is Velodyne considering replacing the DD-15, DD-18 with newer models or will these be current for quite some time? No new 15"or 18" subs on the horizon?

Well, I got the VX-10 fri as expected. I have to admit I was a bit surprised that VANNS would have fedex leave it in front of the door and not knock...I was there all day. I live in an apt complex and it would have been easy for someone to grab the box from the outside walkway. First impressions as I only had a couple of hours to play with it (and unfortunately won't again until sunday eve)...sounds nice...good extension for my beta 20's. But all is not good. It's not the sub but my receiver or what I am or am not doing. I bought a floor model denon AVR-1707 in dec from BB....no matter what I do with this sub or the previous sony sub, it seem to stop getting a signal from the receiver for hours at a time and as of this morning has not come back. Even when I crank the sub to 12.5 db, nothing! I have the sub on YES, and have tried it with both sub normal and main + sub. I tried to different monster subwoofer cables....no change. I put on a movie and the receiver went into dolby pro logic II with the optical connections working fine, but still no sub. I am currently using a 16 ft monster sub 400 cable. Oh, I have both the volume and crossover at 3/4 on the sub (even put the sub volume at max) and still nothing. Anyone else ever experience this problem? Your thoughts are appreciated?

If I can't solve this problem on my own, I'll call Denon next week

http://www.usa.denon.com/ArchivedAVReceivers.asp?archivedModelSearch=true&clearCurrent=true&archivedCategory=AV&archivedModel=AVR-1707&imageField.x=16&imageField.y=12

Gregg
___________________________
Receiver: (new) Denon AVR-1707
Fronts: Infinity Beta 20
Rears: Infinity RS1
Center: Infinity Entra
Sub: Velodyne VX-10

Curt,

I'm not having much luck with the SPL1000...I was talking to a friend of mine who just bought the DLS4000r sub and loves it.....My room is 23 (L) X 10' W) (7 (H)......I'm looking a tight, punchy sound....Any suggestions on this?

Oh, an Onkyo SR-805 will be used with mostly Blu-ray, HD discs and the sub will be used 90% for movies.... Thanks!

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

I have a VA1250X that I bought years ago, I love the speaker but the foam surround finally started deteriorating. What is my best option..to refoam, or et a replacement driver. Does Velodyne have any replacements available and if so what kind of price range am I looking at spending. Thanks in advance.

Brett

Hi,
I recommend on Monday you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. They probably have a current driver that will work fine and cost less than reconing.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

1) Is anyone using the XLR connection on the back of their DD18? If so, do you notice a difference between the XLR connection vs the RCA connection?

2) Is there a way to turn off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency and adjust the Low Pass Crossover Slope? So far, if I hit reset, it turns off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency and the Low Pass Crossover Slope.

Thanks for your response.

Hi,
Not sure I understand your questions so you might want to call me tomorrow.
1) They are both input devices, one being balanced (XLR) and the other unbalanced (rca). They will provide the same level of performance so you can utilize either depending on your equipment. The recommendation is use one or the other, not both.
2) They work together. If there's no low-pass filter, then there's no slope.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I think you did understand my question, and you answered them. That's what I was looking for. Once again, Thanks.

I am the proud owner of a Velodyne SPL-1200 Series II Sub. When first purchased, it produced a constant low-volume hum which I attributed to a ground loop. I fussed over it for a while but ultimately all was well when I moved to a new apartment. I recently relocated to a house and have noticed rare instances when the sub makes popping noises that resolve when the coaxial CATV wire is pulled from the cable box. This past weekend I adjusted the crossover on my Yamaha amp to 110Hz (from 80Hz) and am now having persistent noise problems. For the last four days, after about 2hrs of normal listening, the sub starts making popping noises. Again, the problem is resolved when the CATV wire is pulled from the cable box. The noise will return if the wire is reconnected at any point that evening but everything sort of resets the following day. Given that all of the problems stem from the cable box I am assuming that I have a ground loop problem but I'm wondering why there is a predictable several hour delay before problems start each day. The cable guy is coming next week to check things out. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

the best way to connect the sub is using "stereo" o "mono" ? Y-adapter is really required? what the different? the low pass & high pass should be set in what freq? ....sorry..i am newbee . i own the velodyne cht-12r and connect to onkyo tx-sr875 through single subwoofer pre-out and using black rhodium rhythem subwoofer cable...my theater room size is 20L x 12W x 10H.... pls advise!

Hi,
Run a single cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the subwoofer. I recommend you use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks to provide more input, however that is optional and you can use the single cable into the 'LFE' jack. Either connection is 'mono', not stereo. Not knowing what your speakers are, to start I would call them 'small' in your receiver's 'speaker set-up' menu and set the crossover to 80hz in your receiver. At the subwoofer set the low-pass crossover to 'direct'. You are not using the subwoofer's high-pass filter so it does not matter where it is set. If you find you are having to increase the subwoofer's volume much above factory setting, go into the receiver and increase the volume for the subwoofer jack.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

HI,
At the rear panel of my velodyne cht-12r subwoofer got the "switch" for the high pass crossover "80hz" & "100hz"....where should i switch to? what is the function for this high pass crossover? Also the output in-term of sound quality,power , using stereo connection @ through just single "LFE / mono" connection, which is best? or same? The low pass freq set in receiver set at lower freq @ higher freq will provide more deep,more powerfull & clean bass?

thank!



Hi,
Run a single cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the subwoofer. I recommend you use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks to provide more input, however that is optional and you can use the single cable into the 'LFE' jack. Either connection is 'mono', not stereo. Not knowing what your speakers are, to start I would call them 'small' in your receiver's 'speaker set-up' menu and set the crossover to 80hz in your receiver. At the subwoofer set the low-pass crossover to 'direct'. You are not using the subwoofer's high-pass filter so it does not matter where it is set. If you find you are having to increase the subwoofer's volume much above factory setting, go into the receiver and increase the volume for the subwoofer jack.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
You are not using the subwoofer's high-pass filter (it's set in your receiver) so it doesn't matter where the sub's switch is. The high pass on the subwoofer would be used in a different installation, not yours. The crossover in your receiver is set according to the size of your speakers. Experiment with settings in your receiver as to best sound. The sub is always mono when hooked to the sub-out jack of your receiver. If this isn't clear, perhaps your dealer can help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Curt

I have a five year old Velodyne CHT-12. When I watch a movie like (Day After Tomorrow), it turns off for quite a while. I read somewhere that it is over-heating. Are there any solutions for cooling?

Hi,
You may very well need a larger subwoofer. The sub is shutting down to protect itself. I would use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. Keep the volume on the sub below half way. In your receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer jack to about two thirds of the way up. If it continues to shut down, back off some more on the sub's volume. Feel free to call regarding advice of proper subwoofer sizing.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt C. I am using a Y splitter to both inputs and my setting on the sub is just before half and my receiver is set at 0db. I will try the new settings and hope for the best.

new to the forum!!!!!!! had a question about my hgs-12. what are some common setting you guys use for this particular sub. it sounds great for music, top notch. though, i can not get the same extension i am used to hearing with ported subs with my hgs-12. what should i do. i have it hooked up to a rotel rsx-1056 and being used with nht speakers.
art

Hi,
The HGS-12 is a fairly small sealed box subwoofer designed for a small room with no permanent openings. The servo controlled HGS is designed to be very accurate, rather than loud. A bass reflex design will have more output and perhaps extension depending on the size. Assuming your Rotel is a A/V receiver, use a 'Y' splitter into both the sub's inut jacks. Keep the sub's volume below half way and raise the receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack to about two thirds of the way up. For subwoofer size recommendations go to; www.velodyne.com and then look under 'which product' and then 'wizard', or give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The HGS-12 is a fairly small sealed box subwoofer designed for a small room with no permanent openings. The servo controlled HGS is designed to be very accurate, rather than loud. A bass reflex design will have more output and perhaps extension depending on the size. Assuming your Rotel is a A/V receiver, use a 'Y' splitter into both the sub's inut jacks. Keep the sub's volume below half way and raise the receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack to about two thirds of the way up. For subwoofer size recommendations go to; www.velodyne.com and then look under 'which product' and then 'wizard', or give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

thanks curt. i have always heard to adjust the volume only on the sub and not the reciever......... man i am confused. i really want that impact for movies. oh ya, GO VELODYNE!!!!!
art

Does anyone know if there is a bug with the DD-12 going into standby while listening to sources. My buddy has a HD-DVD XA-2 with HDMI to a PIO 84 with Direct-TV STB also with HDMI.

He says that his DD-12 has started to go into standby mid stream and then come back a few seconds or minutes later with both sources.

I asked him to look at firmware on the DD and noticed that there is version 2.2.2 on the Velodyne site. His firmware is from last year when he bought it.

There is also a firmware for the PIO 84 that is available that fixes a few things and adds the ability to apply a variable DB boost to the (+5, +10, +15) to the LFE.

Is this a known issue with the sub- has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks,
J

Curt, in your opinion, would I benefit from purchasing high end subwoofer RCA cables? I have 2 of the SPL II 1200's running on NAD LFE outs using moderate quality cables. I am happy with the sound and I'm not sure if spending the money on high end cables would yield much result? I guess the question is, how much difference do the cables make?

I am running with the Y splitters on both subs.

Also, I see that you recommend increasing the sub output on the receiver while keeping the sub controls at low to moderate levels. Can you explain the reasoning behind that to me? Wouldn't that basically do the same thing as keeping the receiver levels at nominal and raising the sub controls?

Thanks.

Mike

Hi,
As to voltage input it is totally related to the design of the on-board amplifier, it's input sensitivity and gain stages. When I suggest a method it applies to Velodyne. Other brands may differ. As to hook-up wire you're on your own as to what you believe. I will say, I spend my money on speakers (and subwoofers) where we can agree there are differences.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Today I decided to calibrate my sub again as my experimention continues to make sure that I get the absolute best out of this beast. So, I calibrated the sub first so that they matched pretty evenly with my mains. I was with the +/-3 across the frequencies for the most part. I have a valley of about 6db at 50hz. Anyway, all was good. So then I calibrated my speakers using the using the internal test tone from my processor. I calibrated all my speakers at 75db. However, when it the internal sound reached my sub, my SPL meter was showing 82 db which is 7 db higher than my other speakers. But, when I calibrate the my sub using the Velodyne's EQ graph, the graph is pretty even at 76 db across the frequencies. So, which one is correct, the Velodyne Eq or the readings on the SPL meter?

Hi,
Naturally I trust the DD. You're dealing with two different sound sources, two different mics, and two different read-outs. It's even doubtful the measuring spots are exact. I would expect differences. Go with the Velodyne EQ. We do recommend after eq'ing to adjust the DD's volume to where it sounds flat as most people need the bass elevated a bit to sound flat. The whole idea of eq'ing the bass is to get that spectrum fairly flat and eliminate the peaks.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Naturally I trust the DD. You're dealing with two different sound sources, two different mics, and two different read-outs. It's even doubtful the measuring spots are exact. I would expect differences. Go with the Velodyne EQ. We do recommend after eq'ing to adjust the DD's volume to where it sounds flat as most people need the bass elevated a bit to sound flat. The whole idea of eq'ing the bass is to get that spectrum fairly flat and eliminate the peaks.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Naturally, I knew that you would respond, and naturally, I knew you would lean towards the Velodyne. Well, I leaned the same way. I believe the mic for LFE is a lot more accurate with the Velodyne than my Radio Shack SPL Meter. So, I made the right decision and not make any adjustments when my SPL meter was showing 82 for the sub reading.

Thanks Curt. I'm sure I will have more questions in the near future as I continue to expirment with my beasty toy.

I've owned a Velodyne DLS 5000R for nearly 2 years and it has worked flawlessly. Three nights ago, it stopped putting out bass and made frequent clicking/electrical clipping/"brack" sounds whenever the sub tries to fire. I've tried resetting the amp, but no change.

There is a Velodyne Service Center a few towns away from me (Circuit City, Vista, CA). Do I need to call in advance for authorization or can I just bring the unit in?

Obviously any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

jeff in san diego

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-3800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

curt c
i am having trouble with placement for my hgs-12. i have heard sealed enclosures need a bit of room to breath to get their full extension. though i sit about 6 feet from my sub ( which is placed next to my main nht 2.5i speakers). how far from the wall should it be? should i just put it in the corner or next/behind my seating? i am starting to listen to 2-channel setups( though mainly for ht) and was worried if i put it next to my seat, it would lose balence...... thanks

Hi,
Subwoofers need boundaries, so up against the wall or in a corner is a good starting place. You can also try near-field which would be close to your seating position. I would experiment with the available options to see which works best.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I posted a question in another thread about trying to figure out a sub for my dedicated HT room (see link in signature for more info) and responses came in saying that Velodyne isn't a good choice (specifically the SPL-1000R or SPL-1200R). I thought I'd post it here since you all are using Velodyne. Do you have a differing opinion? The common consensus right now seems to be the HSU VTF-2 MK3, AV123 MWF-15, or eD A5-350. The room is 16.5'x22.5'x8' and the sub will not be visible behind my false wall (26" from real front wall). Thanks!

Hi,
In the SPL series I would recommend the SPL-1500R for your room size. I'm not familiar with all the others you mention but I suspect the are all bass reflex designs which will have more output at the expense of some accuracy. So as far as subwoofer's go it's somewhat of an oranges/apples comparison. The Velodyne bass reflex design's that would be recommended are the DLS-5000R or perhaps the DLS-4000R. If it were my system, I would go with the SC series. The outboard SC-1250 amp driving two SC-15's or two SC-12's would give you the best of both world's, accuracy and output.
With the SC series you can start with one passive sub and add the second one later.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the info. Those are a little out of my price point due to all the other stuff I'm doing in the room/basement right now though.

Hi,
Understood. IMHO the subwoofer is the most important element in the H/T system, it's the one that puts the smile on your face, makes or breaks the experience. I guess that's why I work for Velodyne. The DLS-5000R would be the economical way to go, complete with miles of smiles.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi all,

Here looking for a little assistance. I recentlly sold an SPL-1200 Series I to someone on eBay. It was fully functional when I shipped it out (what a great sub!), but he is unable to get it to pick up a signal from his receiver. He already has an 8" Velodyne that he can hook up and it works, so we know it's not a bad cable, or out on the receiver. Any tricks or anything that stands out to anybody? I called Velodyne and they are closed until Tuesday, so I will call them when they're open, just looking for some help in the mean time. The buyer thinks that he can faintly hear the sub playing along to the music, but only when he puts his ear right down by the driver. The sub does power on.

Thanks,
Doug

Hi,
My guess is shipping damage which is not at all unusual. I know he claims to have checked it against a working sub but I would have him run a CD player directly into the sub's inputs and play a CD just to be sure. So many receiver's are programmed incorrectly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the quick reply Curt. I will have him try the CD player. Here's hoping that it wasn't damaged. I know shipping is a case by case thing, but if I shipped it fully insured is this something that UPS may rectify if it turns out to be damaged?

Hopefully it will be covered but it can be a challenge collecting. You might want to call me Tuesday and I will share my experiences with claim processing with UPS/FEDEX. I have always been paid, though not always timely.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Has anyone tried using the phase on their sub? I was doing some more tweaks on my sub last night, and started wondering about the phase. According to the manual, the phase can help to remove so dips. I would assume only if the dip is pretty minor. I used it last night, and it seemed to make the frequencies between 80hz and 100hz a little smoother. I set it to 90. Anyway, I have a pretty flat line across all of the frequencies. I was playing around with the sub for about an hour last night. It was really worth it because I think I really have the sub dialed in real nicely with my mains.:D

Has anyone tried using the phase on their sub? I was doing some more tweaks on my sub last night, and started wondering about the phase. According to the manual, the phase can help to remove so dips. I would assume only if the dip is pretty minor. I used it last night, and it seemed to make the frequencies between 80hz and 100hz a little smoother. I set it to 90. Anyway, I have a pretty flat line across all of the frequencies. I was playing around with the sub for about an hour last night. It was really worth it because I think I really have the sub dialed in real nicely with my mains.:D

yes, phase and polarity will/can change the frequency response a lot.

I have an 11x 20 x8 room in my basement with a 6 ft opening in the rear of the 20 ft wall that leads into a 15 x 40 x 8 room. looking for a sub to be placed in the corner furthest away from the opening. Was thinking of the SPL 1200 R, but some people have told me that the opening in the rear of the room to the other part of the basement would render the 1200R a bad choice. Have WAF issues to deal with, and I don't need the system to be perfect...just trying to add a llittle bass to my bookshelf B&W CM1's. Curt, can the SPL 1200R work, or should the SPL 1500R be the proper choice; or neither?

Hi,
Let's see you need two DD-18's and you're considering a SPL-1200R. I'd recommend heavy negotiations with the wife. Unfortunately bass will have to address the whole (7K cubic feet) area. If it's primarily lightweight music anything will be better than nothing. Certainly bigger will be better so yes the SPL-1500R would be a better choice than the SPL-1200R. Give me a call on Tuesday and we can go over some options. In the meantime Negotiate!!
Thanks and Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430

It is what it is. I have to play the cards I am dealt. I have limited space and limited budget. Will the finish of the Cherry SPL 1500 R be somewhat similar to the B&W Rosenut CM1's? If not, I could also get the B&W ASW 750 sub to match the speakers, but many people say B&W subs are lacking.

Hi,
Unfortunately there is no cherry SPL-1500R. I responded to your PM so give me a call tomorrow and we'll sort this out as best we can.
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c,
i just purchased a velodyne spl-800. i wanted to maybe put it into my ht setup so i can have duel subs. my question is will the spl-800 mate well with my current hgs 12?

I am actually interest in a Velodyne sub to go with my current RTi8s and CSi3, and soon to be FXi A4...We sold the DPS at Ccity and i loved the sound of it, thought it was clean bass...Just dont know what to go with with 12x17 and 8ft high ceiling.....

Since you loved the sound of it, either the DPS-10 or DPS-12 will be fine for your system. The DLS-3750R and DLS-4000R will perform the same but add a hand held remote and different cosmetics.
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c,
i just purchased a velodyne spl-800. i wanted to maybe put it into my ht setup so i can have duel subs. my question is will the spl-800 mate well with my current hgs 12?



Hi,
Well at least they are both sealed box designs. The HGS will play considerably louder and go deeper so you may need to work at balancing them to each other.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Unfortunately there is no cherry SPL-1500R. I responded to your PM so give me a call tomorrow and we'll sort this out as best we can.
Curt (928) 858-4430

You know, Curt, I had thought that I read a few months ago that the SPL 1500 R only came in black, but on your website the specifications show black pica or cherry. Also, I did a websearch and there are internet dealers out there offering it in Cherry so I figured it is available.

I have two HGS18 subs that I absolutely love. They have preformed well for years and create the best earthshaking experience I've felt from any sub I've ever felt.

I've have a growing problem with one of them that although is a nuisance right now, I'm concerned it will eventually cause some damage if not corrected.

When one of the HGS18s first turns on (auto-on from an audio signal) it makes an awful motorboat sound for about a minute (depending on the temperature) then slowly quiets down to normal operation. If after it turns on I mute the sub, it will sometimes make a hissing sound instead of the motorboat noise. This can't be good for the sub as it seems like it's trying to reproduce a square wave at times (and is very loud)...

Has anyone experienced this problem and if so is there a fix I can preform without shipping the entire sub in for service? I'm very technical and believe I can diagnoses and replace whatever component is defective (leaky) with a schematic or some advice if this is a know or common problem with this product.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

(If this has already been posted my apologies, please direct me to the posting)

Hi,
You need to contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext 2848 or service@velodyne.com. You will only need to send the plate amp in, not the whole subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

You know, Curt, I had thought that I read a few months ago that the SPL 1500 R only came in black, but on your website the specifications show black pica or cherry. Also, I did a websearch and there are internet dealers out there offering it in Cherry so I figured it is available.

Hi,
Oops, I goofed. You are correct, the SPL-1500R is available in cherry and we have them in stock.
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks for the help

Can someone give the background on the SPL II 12's? I am looking for a small sealed sub pair and these have come up for sale. I tried to read through this thread but you guys are long winded!;) Anything you guys might be able to tell me would be appreciated. Like, when were they sold, reliability, SQ (more important than output), original MSRP or street price. Thanks a bunch.
:D

Hi,
The SPL-II was replaced by the SPL-R a couple of years ago. The street price was about $1499. as I recall. Sound quality is superb and reliabilty is fine when used in the appropriate size room. All too often these small sealed boxes are placed in much too large an area. For proper sub/room sizing check velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then the 'wizard' or call me direct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The SPL-II was replaced by the SPL-R a couple of years ago. The street price was about $1499. as I recall. Sound quality is superb and reliabilty is fine when used in the appropriate size room. All too often these small sealed boxes are placed in much too large an area. For proper sub/room sizing check velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then the 'wizard' or call me direct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm wondering if a pair would fill up my somewhat large and open space. My real limitation is the depth of the subs...17" max. Due to serious WAF, these have to stay hidden when not in use so they get stored in a 17" deep base cabinet. I know its not ideal but its what I have to work with. My other option is to buy a sub kit, like a Rythmik, and build a box to suit, which I really don't want to do....they always take too long to do and I'm not in the mood. I may give you a call for advice. Thanks again.

Yes please give me a call when you get a chance.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Oops, I goofed. You are correct, the SPL-1500R is available in cherry and we have them in stock.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Cool. Now I just have to convince the wife to allow me to place that big sucker in our contemporary room!

Curt,

Quick question. I just installed a sc-1250 with a sc15 in my media room. I never put in a subcontractor setup before. I have done a ton of SPL's but this is my first subcontractor. Anyway, question for you: I know this is subjective but . . .Can you give me some info re: the vol level of the amp. What is normal running vol. about for this amp with a 15. I just want to have a starting point to work with. Also should I use this vol control to fine tune when I'm all set up or should I use my pre/pro sub level at that point or doesn't this matter? I have always been told to use the subs vol level before you up the level on your pre/pro.

thanks alot,
jim

ps great piece btw. the sub itself is very well made and I'm really liking the idea of having an outboard amp. Really saves on room.

Hi,
Default volume on the SC-1250 is 30 so I wouldn't exceed that by much, lower is fine. I am currently using a SC-1250 with two SC-12's in a fairly large area and I have the receiver's volume for the sub channel at +2 and I run the SC's volume between 22 to 26 depending on source and it's great. The SC series are certainly a favorite of mine. Happy to hear your's too.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I'm about to drop a brain if I don't decide on a sub. I thought maybe i was going to buy a couple SPL II 12's that were reported to be nearly perfect but the buyer was pretty stuck on the price. For that money I can get 2 new MFW15's delivered with warranty. I did notice the SC12...is that the passive design that requires the seperate amp. They will fit in my plans but wonder about the cost factor....anyone? Anyone, meaning Curt C. :cool:

Hi,
Default volume on the SC-1250 is 30 so I wouldn't exceed that by much, lower is fine. I am currently using a SC-1250 with two SC-12's in a fairly large area and I have the receiver's volume for the sub channel at +2 and I run the SC's volume between 22 to 26 depending on source and it's great. The SC series are certainly a favorite of mine. Happy to hear your's too.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I went to setup my sub before I went to work and my SPL meter is dead. Someone left it on when they put it away this weekend! grrr. Anyway, I did the ol' go ny your ear and this is pretty much impossible to me with a sub. Right now I got it at 45 with my pre/pro at 0. I know this is totally wrong prob. I'll grab a battery today.

Also thought of something else last night. When I run the auto EQ on the sub:
1. Is that your new preset setting meaning you don't use the Jazz, movie, ect settings now?
2. What happens to your xover setting. Does it stay at where you put it or does the auto EQ change it as necessary kinda like Audessey does?

Finally, My pre/pro is set at a global 80 for xover and I got the 1250 set at 120 or should I just bypass the Velodyne xover. I didn't know what would happen to the auto EQ setting if I did this. This kinda goes back to to question 2 above.

Thanks alot Curt,

Great product btw once I get it setup right when I get a battery! Can't wait to listen to some music tonight

Jimi

Hi,
I'd raise the volume in the pre/pro and lower the SC's. EQ is global across all presets, so you may use them as you wish. The crossover in the SC will stay the same unless you change it. You could just bypass it since you're using the crossover in the pre/pro.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 959-4430

I have a DLS-3500 and just recently the amount of sound coming out is about 1/4 what it used to be. The sound quality is fine, not distoted or anything. I pulled the amp out to check it out. None of the FETS are shorted, nothing looks burnt or overheated. I hooked the amp up to a 12 MTX that I have, and it seems to drive it OK, sound output is strong. Which led me to believe the speaker is bad. If I move the cone in and out by hand I don't feel any resistance or scratching that would indicate a damaged voice coil. I measured the speaker imedance to be 6.5 Ohms.
I have not changed my system set up or speaker room location.
Any idea what might be wrong?

Hi,
If the sub volume has been set too high, that might explain it. Do a reset by pushing presets on the remote in this order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. If that doesn't help make sure nothing in the receiver has changed and the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer jack is well up. The auto-calibration in many receiver's really restricts the bass volume in the receiver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Does anyone have any information on the original ULD-15 series I? I just became the proud owner of one, but I'm not sure exactly what the Normal/Master switch does on the back of the servo amp. I would love to get my hands on a copy of the series I owner's manual, but alas I can only find the series II. Thanks.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service manager Dave Santos at dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. He will be able to answer your ULD questions.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Turned on my system tonight and instead of the usual blue logo there is an orange line lit under an unlit logo and no sound. Turning off and on using the rear switch doesn't clear problem. Is the amp blown? What does an orange light mean?

Hi,
If the sub will take remote commands, try a reset by pressing 8-9-0. If it won't take commands please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I'm in the market for a new subwoofer.

I live in a condo/townhouse with adjoining neighbors so I don't want to be an annoyance. However, my living space in which the subwoofer would reside is very big (main living room, attached dining area, kitchen, and a lofted office).

What sub, in your opinion (Velodyne folks and/or other Velodyne owners), should I be looking at?

Thanks,

Geoff

Hi,
You didn't mention a budget or what the sub will be used for (music? H/T? both?).
What are your main speakers? What type of music or H/T do you listen to or watch?
What is the total cubic displacement counting all rooms open to the main area? Is there a physical size requirement for the sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

i just got my denon 3808ci today and ran the audessy setup. in the denon manual it says if you have a subwoofer to do the following:
defeat the volume and crossover controls if possible, if this is not possible then set:
volume 12 o'clock
crossover frequency "maximum/highest frequency"
low pass filter off
stand by mode off

this is how i set up my dls 3750
i had the low pass crossover set to direct
auto on/off set to indirect
high pass crossover set to 80

did i have my settings correct?
my speaker set-up is small

Hi,
The settings are fine. For sub volume use the default setting of '35'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

I've this SPL-1200R in my HT system, bought about 2 months ago. Everything works fine until yesterday. While playing movie, I heard a "bop" sound from the sub and then after, no more sound produce from it. It made a series of rumble sound after that, even when my player is stop. After which I off it with my remote and on it again. It start producing some rumble sound and then quiet, then a "bop" sound was heard. I tried to off the mains, reseting and then on it. This time the sub just won't respond to my remote, the blue light just went blinking quickly or gives a few blinks.

Can anybody tell me what cause it? :confused:I usually have my master volume of my AMP at -19db the most, sub level from AMP at +2 the most, and the sub volum at 40..Is it my fault? How can it went haywire just after 2 months? :(

i own a velodyne cht-12r....what is the optimium volume to be set?

Hi,
The optimum setting is around '35' which is default setting.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Im looking at the DLS3750R, havent heard it, but like i said earlier i did like the sound of the DPS series...

Anyway, this will be used for mostly video games and movies....Would this be my best option or is their a better choise for this....as far as movies go, right now that will be HD DVDs played on an A35 and DVDs....Probably doesnt matter


My set up is: Onk 705 (reciever), Plk Rti8 (fronts), Csi3 (center), FXi A4 (rears)....I want something that will give me quality bass for movies and games, but i dont want to drown out my main sound....

Im looking at the DLS3750R, havent heard it, but like i said earlier i did like the sound of the DPS series...

Anyway, this will be used for mostly video games and movies....Would this be my best option or is their a better choise for this....as far as movies go, right now that will be HD DVDs played on an A35 and DVDs....Probably doesnt matter


My set up is: Onk 705 (reciever), Plk Rti8 (fronts), Csi3 (center), FXi A4 (rears)....I want something that will give me quality bass for movies and games, but i dont want to drown out my main sound....

If everything is calibrated to a certain reference point (ex. 85db) then it won't matter how loud the sub can go, they will all be at equal volume and the sub will not drown out your speakers.

I used to have a DLS-5000R, lots of impact and capable for most movies.
I'd try and go for a higher end model, like a DD15 for the deep stuff. You really don't know what you're missing until you actually feel it.

Hi,
The settings are fine. For sub volume use the default setting of '35'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

how do i know what the volume on the sub is set at, or do i just need to do a reset of the sub to get a volume of 35. if so, how do i do that? also, i assume once i run audessy, i leave the sub alone and dont change anything?

Hi,
You can do a sub reset by pressing the four presets from left to right in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. That will put the volume to '35'. You will also get blinking signals after you adjust the volume up or down. Longs are tens, shorts are units, so three long and five short is volume '35'. After your automated set up you may adjust the volume up or down as needed depending on the source, just don't take it much above '35'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello,

Is it possible to know if the microphone supplied with the dd-15 is usable for the whole hi-fi range ?

It looks very similar physically to the Behringer ECM8000...

Could avoid buying a second microphone for equalization in the upper range !

thank you

Hi,
It can be used full range.
Curt (928) 858-4430
curt@velodyne.com

Hello,

Is it possible to know if the microphone supplied with the dd-15 is usable for the whole hi-fi range ?

It looks very similar physically to the Behringer ECM8000...

Could avoid buying a second microphone for equalization in the upper range !

thank you

If you intend to use it full range, you'll probably need one of the mic calibration files to plug into the software you're using.

Thanks for the replies.

Where could these files be found ?

let's turn it another way : if I plug the DD-15 microphone in a Behringer DCX2496 parametric equalizer, is there a chance it wil work kright away ...?

Hello,
I am using two Minivees. Y-splitter from receivers LFE output ... one of the subs will not auto standby (new). Any suggestions?
Thanks

Hi,
Disconnect the input cable and see if it goes into standby after 15-20 minutes. Make sure the switch is in the auto position. If it still won't go into standby and it is new, then return it for exchange,
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

how to set the "phase"? 0,90,180,270.....which is good?

Hi,
If one setting is louder go with that, otherwise use '0'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

actualy input the signal by using the LFE singel channel o using stereo use y adapter,which is good in-term of sound quality?

A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is fine.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Thanks for all of your help and excellent information for all of us Velodyne owners.

I'm the proud owner of an HGS-15 which I love and have owned for several years. The power indicator light just went out on the front of the sub [small light on the bottom right corner of the sub].

Is there an easy way to fix this or is it not worth the effort. I keep the sub on "auto on" all of the time. For the record, I had to replace the power amp last year, but the light still worked after that.

Thanks again for your help!

Mitch

Hi,
I have never tried to replace one so please contact our service manager Dave Santos at; dave.santos@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2819. I'm sure he can answer the question.
Thanks you,
Curt@velodyne.com or (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt. I'll contact Dave.

Mitch

I do not know if this is the correct thread or not. Just wanted to say I recently purchased a Velodyne DPS 10" sub from CC on clearance for $298.00. It has to be by far the best investment I have made in a while. It was instant gratification. I could not be happier.

i own a velodye cht-12r.....i notice when i adjust the volume up,example from volume 34,when i press 1 time volume up from sub rear panel, it will increase to 36, is 2 db increase...but if adjust volume up from remote control,just 1 time pressing volume up, it will change from 34 to 38,is 4db increase...why not same? is it normal? should be same wheater from rear panel o remote right?

Hi,
They will vary between 2-4. If you push the remote quickly it will probably be 2. You're in the range though.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Decepticon07,
We very much appreciate positive feedback. So Thanks from Velodyne.
Enjoy,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

curt my b&k ref 50 pre pro has the thx ultra 2 feature in the speaker set up.
Is it ok to use this setting .

Hi,
Well I would assume so but I don't know exactly what it does, since I don't own the product. Perhaps someone else has an answer on this. You could always call me with the B&K manual and read me what the feature claims to do.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

I just got a new VX-10. I am having problems with the auto-on feature though. When watching SDTV the Velodyne will not turn on. It will turn on with a DTS source however.

I have it connected via LFE with a Y-connection. All speakers are set to SMALL. What settings should I use on the sub for crossover freq. and gain? I set the bass output on the Yamaha to 0 db. This setting ranges from -10 db - 0 db.

I am a novice here so maybe I am missing something obvious.

Thanks!

A lot of TV broadcasts have no bass content to speak of so that would appear to be the problem. I don't know if you can increase the volume of the TV box feed to the receiver, if so, do so. You should be setting the crossover in your receiver dependent on speaker size (usually 80hz is fine). Set the sub's crossover to 200hz. the sub's volume should always be less than half way.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi:

I recently purchased an SPL-1000R. I am running this sub off an Onkyo TX-SR603X AV Receiver. I am very impressed with the authority of this little beast and the deep notes that it reach. However, I am having a problem with the amp cutting out with some types of music at lower volumes. I noticed that this is a familiar problem for many posters on this forum. I listen to a variety of music including Rock, Classical, Blues, some Jazz, and also watch television and movies and listen to my Podcasts through this system. I also play the system at every volume from loud to quiet-when I am using music as background for work.

I have tried two things so far in my attempts to get this sub working for me. I noticed that the auto-setup on the Receiver put the sub output at -6. I cranked this up to +12 and turned the volume down on the sub to compensate. I also added a Y-connector to engage both sub inputs. Both ideas helped a great deal. Before, the sub used to cut out on nearly all commercials and interludes when there was only conversation, quiet passages in the upbeat music, and for Classical music it was almost usless, except when I cranked the system volume. Now the problem is almost eliminated, but I am still having some problems with Classical music at low volumes. It still cuts in and out, unsure of what it wants to do. Very annoying.

I really like this sub, but I am on the verge of returning it. One other thing I am thinking of doing is adding some sort of signal booster to the input cable. Has anyone tried something like this? Is it safe? I still have room to turn the volume down on the sub to compensate for a stronger signal. Good thing I like bass.

Thanks!

You could just turn the Auto -On off.

Yes, in your case you may need to. Unless the music has bass content, it is going to shut down. Much classical music has very little deeper bass and in dialog there is usually none. You have already done the things I would recommend and any additional boost will just overload the input section.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the response guys. Rob, it's not that the sub is turning itself off, the blue light stays on. The sub only powers down by itself after about 15 minutes. It's just that when Classical music is played, whenever there is a quiet section, the sub emits a subtle but audible pump or thunk when the quiet section begins and when it gets louder again.

I tried the same music with a Yamaha sub on my Receiver. The Yamaha just quits making sound when there is no bass. It makes no extra noise to indicate that a quiet passage has begun and ended. Too bad the Yamaha is twice as big and has half the power of my Velodyne.

I wish that my Receiver had the traditional loudness switch that the old Receivers/Amps used to have. Perhaps I if I had a button like that, when I am playing music quietly, it would compress the dynamic range. But it seems that the loudness switch as gone the way of the dinosaur. I am playing with a custom preset in iTunes that I call Classical with Extra Bass. But even with the bass sliders turned up all the way, I can't hear much difference bass-wise in the quiet passages, and the Velodyne still has that audible thunk.

David

Hi,
I suggest returning it to the dealer to check it out and perhaps exchange. It doesn't sound like it's operating correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt:
Actually, this is my second Velodyne SPL-1000R. My dealer kindly lent me the floor model because he knew that mine would take a while to come in. The first one behaved exactly the same. My hope was that the demo was faulty and that mine would work better.
I also tried mine with another amp and it still has the same problem. I am going back to the dealer with some of the CDs that I am having trouble with to show my salesman the problem I am having. The trouble is that they play the music very loud to overcome all the ambient noise in the store and listening rooms. But with the correct CDs and with his ear to the sub, he'll be able to hear what I mean.
Thanks,
David

P.S.
Three good CDs to try are Dvorak's From the New World, Sibelius's 4th Symphony, and Shostakovich's 5th Symphony. These are very moody, going from slow quiet passages to very loud creshendos. I have others, but these are ones that I have been playing this weekend. Please don't crit me too much on my knowledge of Classical music terms, I just listen to it. Heavy Metal sounds fantastic, however.

I've never heard of one behave like you're describing. It will be interesting to see what happens at the dealers. Have them play at lower levels.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt:

If you must suggest to so many people to turn up their sub outputs at the amp and install Y connectors, then Velodyne subs must have a sensitivity problem-or at least some of the models like mine. And it's really too bad because mine is such an excellent sub in every other respect and I would highly recommend it otherwise.

I'm going to try to make to my dealer this week, if I can find a day when my salesman is there when I have time. Perhaps with some other receivers it might work better, but I doubt it. He's a good guy and has helped my Dad set up his system at home also. I might invite him over to my place to try it out here. I'll let you know how it turns out.

David

Recommending 'Y's and turning up the sub volume in the receiver is often needed in many subs regardless of brand. The auto-level setup of many receiver's end up with the sub channel way in the negative catagory not supplying near enough input voltage for proper performance. And yes the auto on/function does require a certain amount of input to turn on or it would stay on all the time. Many customer's use the Velodyne's without a 'Y', I recommend it when I think it may help. There are not many industry standards for much of what we have to deal with.
In your case I said I thought something was wrong with the sub. It may even be the set-up but I didn't say that. You are already supplying it with maximum input and since you say the light stays on I don't think that's the issue. Once on, there should not be audible pops or thumps. That's why I suggested the dealer check it out for proper operation. This is the first complaint of this type I have heard of so I too, would like to know what's going on.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

I have a Velo HGS-15 in my dedicated home theater. The room is pretty large - around 7000 cubic feet. Lately, I have noticed that when I set the volumes to near reference level, the sub starts to clip with heavy LFE signals.

Is there a rule of thumb on the maximum volume of the room that the HGS-15 can handle? I suspect that I need a second sub but I would appreciate your views first. I am also using the Velodyne SMS-1, which I use to correct a big room mode at around 40 hz, along with Audyssey on my Denon AVR. I don't use the SMS-1 to increase gain on any frequency - I only cut.

Room is a little irregular. Around 33 feet long, 15 feet wide, sloping ceiling with average height of around 13.5 feet. It also has a small ante-room. The room is heavily treated acoustically - not dead though.

Thanks!

Mark

Hi,
The HGS-15 would be recommended for 3000-3500 cubic feet. So yes look for a second sub. For your large area the current recommendation would be two DD-18's. To avoid overdriving the HGS-15, keep the sub's volume below half way. Make sure the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver or pre/pro is well up and use a 'Y' into both subwoofer inputs. Unity gain on the SMS is '15' and that can be advanced or lowered for minor adjustments. If convienient, give me a call about recommendations.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Does anyone have a suggestion of what would be the best way of shipping a Velodyne F-1800RII back to Velodyne? We don't have the original boxes. I have had problems finding a box big enough.

Thanks,
engtaz

Hi,
Who told you to ship the (whole) subwoofer? Normally we only have you ship the amplifier which is easily removed, small and light weight. If you haven't already, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

We sent the amplifier and they replaced all the components but sub still has same problem. They stated to send the sub and if woofer bad they will upgrade plus fee to a DD-18.

engtaz

Okay, I understand. I suggest going to a UPS store or a Kinko's (FEDEX) and have them do the packaging. It needs to be double boxed for sure.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-443o

I have had such bad luck with UPS stores packaging. They love peanuts and audio gear does not.

engtaz

Well I guess that leaves Kinko's. I've had good luck so far.
Curt (928) 858-4430

My compliments to Velodyne for excellent service. Took my DD-15 into HQ for repairs and Rob fixed it while I waited. Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback. Rob's one of the Velodyne Good Guys!
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Question. My 1250 is set to auto turn off and it doesn't after I turn all my components off. Should the light stay blue? I figured it would go to the standby color?

Any suggestions? Does it take a few mins to switch over?

Thanks,
Jim

I have a question here for all of you Velo folks. My new ht room totals 706 ft. ^3 with a flat ceiling. The room is oblong shaped measuring 12.3' long by 7.5' wide by 7' high. My LCD will be placed on the 7.5' side with the 12.3' walls running along the sides. With that said, I need a sub. More specifically, I need a sub that is very tight, punchy, and articulate sounding while maintaining excellent separation and distinctness in the transient response. Furthermore, I need a sub that also offers good extension for ht purposes. What I don't need is a sub to play down to 20 Hz or lower. Am sure I wont lose any sleep over it if it doesn't. I do, however, hope to get to at least the mid 20's or a bit lower. Thus, I have been looking at the 8" Minivee and the 15" 5000r. Could anyone here shed some light on how these two would perform in my new ht room of 706 ft. ^3?? Keep in mind the room is also enclosed. The ONLY opening is to the room itself. Feel free to make other suggestions OR to elaborate in great detail. Comparing the Minvee and/or the 5000r to anything considered "mainstream" would be a big help. Thanks and hope to hear from you Velo people.

Hi Jim,
In the auto 'active' mode after about 15 minutes the blue lights should change to a single amber 'standby' light on the left.
Thanks,
Curt

Greetings,

I have owned a Velodyne DPS12 for 3 years now and its primary usage has been for movies, now I am trying to use it for 2 channel muics and am having difficulty getting it to blend in with my sattlites. Ihave come to the conlcusion that either the sub wasn't made for music or I need help setting everything up properly.

My sattelites are the APERION 532 L/Rs. Frequency response 80hz – 20KHZ, 50-150 watts, 8 ohms, 88DB sensitivity.

My receiver is an Onkyo 505. I have my mains set to small and crossed over @ 80hz.
Room Dimensions - 11x20- sub is currently located about 15 feet from listening position (seem link with HT pics below)

My problem is that when I set my Velodyne's crossover to 65HZ or higher I get some unwanted noise or boominess that causes the subwoofer to stand out when playing 2.1 channel stereo. I have tried all the DSP modes on the sub and Jazz/Classical seems to get rid of it the most, but it is still present.

I do notice that if I set the subs crossover down to 50-60 the boominess is much less noticeable and the sub seems to disapear more into the soundstage. Lowering the volume on the sub also helps however I can tell the impact of the bass notes are severely limited when lowering sub volumes. This leads me to believe:

that the sub cannot perform well at the 60-90 HZ range
I have the volume on the sub or speaker level on the reciever set incorrectly.

What I want. I want the bass to blend in seemlessly with my sattelites so it appears the bass is coming from my sattelites. I have read tons of articles on the internet concerning speaker placement, settings etc and still can't get it right.

Therefore could you provide me some answers:
IS the DPS 12 competent enough to do what I want, which is blend in to the sattelites without bringing attention to itself in the 60-80HZ frequency ranges? Or do I need to upgrade, which I cannot afford at the moment, this things MSRP 4 years ago was around $600

If you think it should be able to handle the task set forth effectively could you please provide me with a guide for setting up this subwoofer correctly. What I'm looking for here is where to start at in terms of the Subs onboard volume levels, frequency on the crossover (or do I defeat the crossover on the sub and use the receiver's LFE cutoff frequency? And a good starting point for levels on the receiver.

Here is a link to pics of my HT setup so that you can see where the sub is currently. http://www.aperionaudio.com/community/forums/thread/6030.aspx
Feel free to make any recommendations on placement. I really appreciate your help and am really desperate to get rid of this unwanted noise in the 60-90 HZ range emitting from my subwoofer, it is really hampering my listening experience.

Hi Jim,
In the auto 'active' mode after about 15 minutes the blue lights should change to a single amber 'standby' light on the left.
Thanks,
Curt

Ah, I didn't wait long enough. Patience. . . patience. . .

Anyway, also. I got my new receiver cause my NAD died after 6 years. So I got a new one. Anyway, I set it up last night. I didn't use Aud and just did it the old fashion way with my meter. Things are looking alot better with number how we talked last. The vol on the amp is 33 and the sub level on the receiver is -8.4db with all set to 75db for all channels.

Question, should I run the sub, from your experience, a little lower than the 75db like the other channels or just keep everything across the board the same? Or is it up to me with preference? Just wondering.

Thanks,
jim

Hi dlenart25

It seems unless I'm misunderstanding that you got good integration with the subwoofer's crossover set in the 50-60hz range. You are assuming that because your high-pass is set at 80hz, then the sub should be set at 80hz, not necessarily so. Plently of times I have crossover settings staggered to get the proper blend. That's why the low-pass is adjustable. Your biggest problem is (no doubt) the room and you have some large peaks in the 60-90hz range which is not unusual. Your sub has excellent performance up to above 120hz and can perform very well in a music system once you get the volume and crossover dialed in correctly. As to volume on the sub I would start at '35' which is default. I would adjust the volume of your receiver's subwoofer jack to provide the proper volume where '35' on the sub seems about right. You can then adjust the sub's volume up or down a bit for differences in the sources. If you don't know how to set the volume to default, you push the remote presets in the following order;1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. And yes continue to experiment with location. In our SPL and DD lines we have added DSP tools for correcting room issues, especially peaks. And as always feel free to call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Yes, i was assuming that since High pass is set to cut off at 80 then the sub should be cut off at 80. And yes i had pretty darn good integration with the sub set at the 50-60 range. I was just really scared I had a bid gap in the 60-80 range, crossover wise. What would happen to the 60 to 60 hz frequencies if they werent covered in the low and high pass settings, I was thinking i would take a performance hit in the midbass?

If I set the frequency on the sub to lets say "50" to get rid of some of the muddyness/boominess then what happens to the frequencies between 55 and 80? Does have something to do with using different components and the slope or sharpness of the frequency curve dropoffs? So even though I set the sub to "60HZ" it is still giving me some stuff in "80" range before it cutsoff and the Sattlites might be giving me something in the 60-80 range before it cutsoff and the sateelites, amp and sub all have different size slopes therefore you need to find the setting where they all mesh together?

Also, i am not sure how to adjust the DPS12's volume back to default, I don't have a remote. I just have two volume buttons on the Sub that cause the blinking indicator light to blink slower and faster. Obviously you see how that can get frustrating :)

Oh..Do you mean to push Movies-R&B/ROCK-Jazz/Classical-Games-Games-Jazz/classical-R&B/Rock-Movies
in that order to get back to default volume?

Jim,
I would raise the receiver's sub output some and back off on the SC's volume. I always prefer the receiver's setting at least half way or in the positive range. In the system where I'm using a SC amp I have the receiver at +2 and the amp between 20 and 25 depending on need. Works great. As to measured sub volume, the recommendation is 5-10 higher than your speakers. If you set everything to '75', the bass is usually too weak but in the end go with your ears.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Yes, i was assuming that since High pass is set to cut off at 80 then the sub should be cut off at 80. And yes i had pretty darn good integration with the sub set at the 50-60 range. I was just really scared I had a bid gap in the 60-80 range, crossover wise.

If I set the frequency on the sub to lets say "50" to get rid of some of the muddyness/boominess then what happens to the frequencies between 55 and 80? Does have something to do with using different components and the slope or sharpness of the frequency curve dropoffs? So even though I set the sub to "60HZ" it is still giving me some stuff in "80" range before it cutsoff and the Sattlites might be giving me something in the 60-80 range before it cutsoff and the sateelites, amp and sub all have different size slopes therefore you need to find the setting where they all mesh together?

Also, i am not sure how to adjust the DPS12's volume back to default, I don't have a remote. I just have two volume buttons on the Sub that cause the blinking indicator light to blink slower and faster. Obviously you see how that can get frustrating :)

Hi,
Yes crossover's can overlap depending on slopes, room transfer function , etc. As to your volume readouts, long blinks are tens and short blinks are units, so three long and five short is '35'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

dlenart25

By chance, is your sub in a corner? In many cases, corner loading causes boominess.

dlenart25

By chance, is your sub in a corner? In many cases, corner loading causes boominess.
Nope, not in a corner. i woulndn't classify it as boominess, just noise in the upperfrequencies, like amplified midrange that causes the sub to stand out when listening in stereo and takes away from its smoothness or an extra emphasis on higher frequency midrange that carries and muddies up the waters and makes sattelite/subwoofer inetegration poor. Sort of like, if you have your sub turned off and are just listening to the bookshelves main speakers. if you have the bass set to zero on the reciever they are real clear and image great, but the higher you turn that bass knob on the reciever the more muddy and unclear it sounds in the midrange. With the sub it is amplified more and it takes away the smooth notes on it. When I cross it over lower (50hz) that sound gets filtered out, the sub tightens up and I get more of the type of unlocatable bass I'm looking for that pounds your chest and is smooth as a baby's bottom. the noise is obviously more prominent the closer I get to the sub. does this make sense? Again I was just worried that i was filtering out the 60-80hz frequencies in my system by setting the crossover to low on my sub.

Yeah, I got my Sub from ABC warehouse years ago and I thought they told me I had to order the remote seperately? If I get a free remote i'd be ecstatic. Then I wont have to get my booty off the couch to make adjustments every darn second. i will call. Thanks,
Dan.

dlenart25,

This really sounds like a setup problem. Lets take this to PMs to avoid cluttering the thread.

Agreed. PM's and phone calls work.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Really, I'll do that. I thought 33 was a good point from our conversation. I'll five that a try now. I'll let you know how I make out.

Jim

Jim,
I would raise the receiver's sub output some and back off on the SC's volume. I always prefer the receiver's setting at least half way or in the positive range. In the system where I'm using a SC amp I have the receiver at +2 and the amp between 20 and 25 depending on need. Works great. As to measured sub volume, the recommendation is 5-10 higher than your speakers. If you set everything to '75', the bass is usually too weak but in the end go with your ears.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt do you if I can get a face plate for a SMS-1 ?


Djoel

Hi,
I have no idea. Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I have no idea. Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430



Thanks Curt:)


Djoel

Hello all,

I am looking for a source for a couple of things for Velodyne ULD-15 servo subwoofer.

1). Servo cable - lost in the move. Where can I get a replacement? (My servo cable connections are simple RCA ones on each side - can I just use a good interconnect cable or do I need a special cable?).

2). Foam surround is starting to crack. Where can I get a surround replacement (kit?)?

I am in Toronto, ON, Canada. Thank you very much!

Eugene.

Hi, was thinking of getting Velodyne SPL1000R, but was weighing the significance of 1000R EQ if I already have audyssey in Onkyo 875. Read the long avs audyssey thread. Want to make sure $ paid for 1000R EQ is well spent.
1. Anyone has experienced in using 1000R with audyssey?
2. My living room is about 17 x 20 feets. Would 800i suffice compared to 1000R? 80% music, 20% HT. Currently had a Definitive supercube III (which I'll be returning soon). Not looking beyond 10" subwoofer.

Many thanks in advance.

Hi,
Many Velodyne customers use both the SPL-R and DD series with audyssey. The SPL-R offers 6 bands of equalization for bass management with a range of -13 and +6 for each band. The recommendation is to use the Velodyne eq first and then audyssey. The 800i is not large enough for your area. The SPL-1000R would be the minimum I would recommend, the SPL-1200R would be better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I just purchased a HGS-18 THX Ultra2 subwoofer. You will hear and feel bass you never thought existed.

Thanks everyone.

My concern about using both Velodyne EQ and Audyssey is "overboosting". For example, if a particular freq is boosted with Velodyne EQ and Audyssey continue to boost that freq, the sub may start to clip due to "double boosting".

My understanding is Audyssey perform more measurement points leading to hundreds of "coefficients" done in freq as well as time domain, vs Velodyne EQ measuring from a single point leading to a few "coefficients". (Pardon me as this is my understanding after reading the Audyssey thread). In this case, I wonder what is the added value of Velodyne EQ. Is there something else that Velodyne EQ is doing that Audyssey is not? This is what is puzzling me.

Hi,
If the systems are working correctly, there can't be 'overboosting'. I don't own or use audyssey so I'm no expert but many, many people including several famous reviewer's use both. In fact one of the reviewer's posted on this thread to use Velodyne EQ first and then audyssey for best results. If there are opinions out there on this, chirp in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt:
I have run Audyssey first and then the SPL 1200R EQ last. The sub sounds better if you do it last rather than before Audyssey. Any thoughts?

Hi,
As I said I don't use audyssey so if one way sounds better, that's the way I would go.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,
Any recommendations regarding choice of receiver to connect to 4 Gallo A'Diva Ti satellites (2 front and 2 rear) and a Velodyne SPL1000R subwoofer would be much appreciated. Does the receiver have to have a separate subwoofer output? If not, how does one connect the speakers?
Many thanks
john

Hi,
All Dolby Digital receivers have a subwoofer jack for connecting the subwoofer. Honestly I find most receivers to be about equal within a price range and we at Veloyne don't recommend one over another. I receive good feedback on all the major brands. There are many reviews out there on all the units.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 OR curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
As a follow-up to the above, there are a couple of important things to look for in a receiver. If you have 4 ohm speakers, make sure the receiver can safely drive them. These receivers are often referred to as high current designs. Any receiver should be able to drive 6 or 8 ohm speakers with no problem. It's also important that the receiver offer a crossover choice that will be correct for your speakers or satellites. If you want additional help or suggestions on this subject, please call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Ive had a Velodyne DD-12 for 2+ years. Ive enjoyed the unit and its performed superbly. However, a couple days ago I noticed a strange sound coming from the unit. I can only describe it as a "rattle". Not like something is loose but as if the speaker is cavatating for lack of a better word. You might describe the sound as a distant jackhammer, distant machine gun or snoaring. The sound was only audible during movies when there is an explosion or other very low frequency sound.

When I used the self calibrate feature, the unit seems to adjust the volume of the jackhammer sound to almost inaudable levels but doesnt eliminate it. It appers that the sound is initially prevelant in the 20-100 frequency range which is most of the range but as the self calibration progresses, the jackhammer sound is reduced and the calibration tone become audible over 80.

If I were to guess, I would say the speaker is blown but the unit hasnt been played at high levels which leads me to believe it might be something else.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

John

Hi,
For starters I would do a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote). At that reset volume is the same thing happening. Make sure you are providing the sub with plenty of input from the receiver and not running the subwoofer volume way up. If it continues call Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. The speaker is rarely the problem. When there is an issue, it's normally the amplifier and the amp section is all you would need to send in for repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello All,
I have a Velodyne DSP 10 Sub. When I turn on the unit on, it starts to make a loud humming sound. Strange, because my Denon amp isn’t even turned on. I've already sent it once for repair. However, no-one acknowledge the problem with the unit. Was it repaired? Should I sent it back in for repair? Is their something on my end that is wrong? Anyone else had this problem?

Hi,
You might try doing a software reset by pressing presets left to right and back; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1.
If this doesn't help, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. They will be able to tell you the history on the unit. If you have hook-up questions please call me. This thread is not able to handle repair/service issues.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi all,
New to this forum mainly because I just found a sub in our basement, it's pretty old (Date: May 28, 1998). The model is a VA-1210. What are the specs on this sub? The box and sub appear to be in very good condition. How good of a sub is this? Seeing as we have a new home theater system my friend reckons that I should just take the amp off of it and put the sub in my Jeep along with my sound system. Would there be any problems in hooking the sub right to my amp that I already have? I see something in the box that might be a capacitor? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

Hi,
The VA-1210 was an excellent subwoofer featuring a 10" driver with a 12" passive radiator. It will work fine in a small to medium area. The driver should not be used in a car application, it was never designed for that. I'm confused, does it have the amplifier? Does the subwoofer work? It should for optimum results be used with the supplied amplifier. We can still service the amplifier if needed. You might want to give me a call on this. I'm very familiar with the VA-1210.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the quick reply Curt. Yes the subwoofer has the amplifier on the back. It would probably be a good idea to check if it works haha. I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to home stereo, what do I set all the switches to on the back of the subwoofer?
Thanks,
Dave

Hi,
To test it, just provide an input signal (line or speaker level), and the volume control on the sub is all you will need to use. The other subwoofer settings would depend on the application but won't matter for testing.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Bruce,

I have been running a velodyne fsx-12 subwoofer and a pair of jbl L19's for a while now and was wondering is the line inputs and outputs the best sound quality or should I be using the rca's? The pre amp and amp are Dynaco pas 3 and St70 that have had some quality work done to them and though I'm not complaining about the sound quality, [It actually sounds quite nice] I am just looking for the best quality I can pull out of them. I look forward to any imput you can give me. :)

Thanks, Eric

Hi,
Line level is the 'rca' route, the other is speaker level. I recommend line level (rca) but you probably won't notice much if any difference. Try both ways and see what you think.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi there,

I have a Velodyne VX-10B that's more than 5 years old. It's connected to the amp via the mono input jack.

Lately, I noticed a slight "hum" when the power is on.

This hum is there when it's in stand-by and when there is audio signal. I disconnected the input line and plugged the unit into a different AC circuit. The hum is still there.

I've tried some other ground-loop checks to no avail. Please advise.

Thank you.

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com. Since it hums with no input, it's not a ground-loop issue.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodune.com

Where can I get a 1/8" mini-to-db9(rs232) cable to connect the 12v trigger on my DD-15?

Hi,
I'm sure Radio Shack or a computer store will have the necessary parts to make up the cable.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

...it's not that the sub is turning itself off, the blue light stays on. It's just that when Classical music is played, whenever there is a quiet section, the sub emits a subtle but audible pump or thunk when the quiet section begins and when it gets louder again.

I tried the same music with a Yamaha sub on my Receiver. The Yamaha just quits making sound when there is no bass. It makes no extra noise to indicate that a quiet passage has begun and ended. Too bad the Yamaha is twice as big and has half the power of my Velodyne.

Hi,
I suggest returning it to the dealer to check it out and perhaps exchange. It doesn't sound like it's operating correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt:
Actually, this is my second Velodyne SPL-1000R. My dealer kindly lent me the floor model because he knew that mine would take a while to come in. The first one behaved exactly the same. My hope was that the demo was faulty and that mine would work better.

P.S.
Three good CDs to try are Dvorak's From the New World, Sibelius's 4th Symphony, and Shostakovich's 5th Symphony. These are very moody, going from slow quiet passages to very loud creshendos. I have others, but these are ones that I have been playing this weekend. Please don't crit me too much on my knowledge of Classical music terms, I just listen to it. Heavy Metal sounds fantastic, however.

I'd like to bump this topic up and revisit it. I'm experiencing exactly the same thing with my 3-week old DLS-5000R. It's a replacement for a wonderful Velodyne CT-150 that was recently damaged in a flood. Although I like the remote control on the 5000R, this pop/thunk is quickly becoming too much for me to handle. I would describe it exactly as David did, and under the same circumstances as well. I'm listening to a Ravel SACD right now, and the dynamic range of this disc is fantastic. But in the soft passages, the 5000R just can't decide what to do, and that "thumping" sound is easily as detectable as the volume of the music in parts. I'm using a Y-adapter into the sub from my Onkyo Pro 885 pre/pro, and have configured my audio using the Audyssey system in the 885. Starting with a volume of 35 on the sub, Audyssey set my sub trim level at -8.5 dB, which I bumped up to -3.5 as a matter of course just because I like a little extra bass. Oh, and the first thing I tried was turning off the "auto-on" setting, so that's not it. When the level of the input is high enough to the sub that it's not cutting in and out, it performs beautifully. I have no issues with its performance in my system, but this thud is probably going to be a deal-breaker for me. Based on my previous experience with my system, my old CT-150, and what I've read on this board, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong. Is this something I'm going to have to live with? If so, does anyone want to buy a DLS-5000R that hasn't even been broken in yet? ;)

Thanks for any input or suggestions.

brad,

Are you saying the sound you're hearing isn't the sub going off and on?

If it is the sub going off and on, keep raising the sub out from the receiver and lowering the gain on the sub.

hi curt,
i own onkyo tx-sr875 avr & velodyne cht-12r. my avr only can set the crossover freq from 80hz to 120 hz for sub, but i wanna use 60hz for mine sub...so how should i set? is it at my avr setting 120hz,then at sub set 60hz to get the crossover setting 60hz?

Hi,
If the receiver setting is strickly for the subwoofer, then you can set it at 80hz and set the sub to 60hz to achieve your goal.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,

what the best crossover setting for movie & music?



Hi,
If the receiver setting is strickly for the subwoofer, then you can set it at 80hz and set the sub to 60hz to achieve your goal.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

That is determined by your speakers. The crossover is normally the same for music or home theater. What brand and model are your speakers and what size woofers do they have?
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

my front speaker is yamaha entry level floorstanding speaker,is 1 1.5' dome tweeter & 2 8' woofer. lowest hz can goes to 35hz regarding spec .. and my room size is 20 x 10 x 10 (length x width x high), i prefer the smooth bass when listening music but goes to movie,more prefer punchy.


That is determined by your speakers. The crossover is normally the same for music or home theater. What brand and model are your speakers and what size woofers do they have?
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

My recommendation for hook-up would be in your receiver's speaker set-up menu call all your speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. In the receiver select crossover of 80hz. At subwoofer put the crossover to 'direct'. This set-up will relieve the Yamaha speakers of trying to do the deep bass and interferring with the subwoofer. For home theater you might want to raise the sub's volume some for more punch.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

my avr speaker set-up menu cant be set the all speaker "small" ,it only can set only in fullrange, 40hz, 50hz,60hz,70hz,80hz,90hz till 200hz for front, center, surround speaker seperately.....what hz should i set to? my center & surround also brand yahama... center can goes to 70hz & surround can goes to 80hz regarding spec..mine is 5.1 system..pls advise!


My recommendation for hook-up would be in your receiver's speaker set-up menu call all your speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. In the receiver select crossover of 80hz. At subwoofer put the crossover to 'direct'. This set-up will relieve the Yamaha speakers of trying to do the deep bass and interferring with the subwoofer. For home theater you might want to raise the sub's volume some for more punch.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

brad,

Are you saying the sound you're hearing isn't the sub going off and on?

If it is the sub going off and on, keep raising the sub out from the receiver and lowering the gain on the sub.

Jim, thanks. I'll give that a try and see what happens. The power light does not change, but it definitely sounds like the sub itself is kicking in and out.
-Brad

I currantly own a CHT-12, and I'm using it in a room with dementions 24'X14'x8 which works out to be 2688 cu sq feet. The amp seems to over heat after using it for about a half an hour into a movie. I've used the advise that AVS has given me by turning the volume down and it seems to work, but not very satified with the lower sound.

So, I was looking into a new sub by Velodyne--theSPL-1200R. Just wondering if that is the correct size, watts, etc. I'd like to know if it will over-heat like my CHT-12.

thanks
howcass

Hi,
You didn't say if you tried a 'Y' into both inputs of the CHT-12 and raised the subwoofer jack volume in the receiver. If not, try those and see if it continues to run hot. As to replacement I would recommend the DLS-5000R or SPL-1500R. Another good combination would be the SC series where you could utilize two SC-12 passive subs or one or two SC-15s all driven by a single SC-1250 amplifier. All of the above recommended subs use the class D amp which runs cool, however it is very important to use the proper size subwoofer. If your room has permanent openings into other rooms, they also become part of the displacement.
Call me if you need more on this.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi curt,
i check with onkyo ady,they told me if i set "full range" in setup menu mean set speaker in "large", but if i set in any "hz" mean set in "small".....but now in the setup menu got so many hz, from 40hz to 200 hz, where should i set to then only can match with my veladyne cht-12 sub?




my avr speaker set-up menu cant be set the all speaker "small" ,it only can set only in fullrange, 40hz, 50hz,60hz,70hz,80hz,90hz till 200hz for front, center, surround speaker seperately.....what hz should i set to? my center & surround also brand yahama... center can goes to 70hz & surround can goes to 80hz regarding spec..mine is 5.1 system..pls advise!

Set the receiver's crossover to 80hz and the subwoofer to 'direct'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

thank you so much for the info curt!!!!! I think I'm going to try anf demo your suggestions and go from there.

howcass

I got a new VX-10, manual said there is a power on/off switch somewhere but there seems none in there. Where is it located at ?

Manual also said I should use a Y if using line input (manual also said Y adapter is in the box, none in there). Do I really need to use a Y or one input is good enough. Thanks.

Hi,
You are correct there is no power switch on your subwoofer. The 230volt (European) model has the power switch. It is important on the VX-10, to use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. They are available at Radio Shack and other A/V stores or contact Velodyne parts (valvarez@velodyne.com) and they will send you one.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
You are correct there is no power switch on your subwoofer. The 230volt (European) has the power switch. It is important on the VX-10, to use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. They are available at Radio Shack and other A/V stores or contact Velodyne parts (valvarez@velodyne.com) and they will send you one.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks a lot curt c.

Hi,
You didn't say if you tried a 'Y' into both inputs of the CHT-12 and raised the subwoofer jack volume in the receiver. If not, try those and see if it continues to run hot. As to replacement I would recommend the DLS-5000R or SPL-1500R. Another good combination would be the SC series where you could utilize two SC-12 passive subs or one or two SC-15s all driven by a single SC-1250 amplifier. All of the above recommended subs use the class D amp which runs cool, however it is very important to use the proper size subwoofer. If your room has permanent openings into other rooms, they also become part of the displacement.
Call me if you need more on this.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


So, looking at some reviews, probably going to go with the DLS-500R. I was wondering if that isn't enough---can I hook my CHT-12 up in parallel?? How hard is it to do? Where should I place it? I'm going to place the 5000 in between my left front and TV. Do I just use a Y adapter out of my receiver?

Hi,
Yes you can parallel two subs from your receiver using a 1-male, 2-female 'Y' splitter. Be sure to increase the volume for the subwoofer jack in the receiver to about three fourths of the way up. You'll need to experiment to find the best location for the second sub as all rooms are different. If available, I'd try the right front area to start. Other possibilities would be one side or the rear.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Yes you can parallel two subs from your receiver using a 1-male, 2-female 'Y' splitter. Be sure to increase the volume for the subwoofer jack in the receiver to about three fourths of the way up. You'll need to experiment to find the best location for the second sub as all rooms are different. If available, I'd try the right front area to start. Other possibilities would be one side or the rear.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I will be having the same setup. By "increase volume in the subwoofer jack in the receiver", you mean the subwoofer level in my AVR setup (-3 to +3). Thanks.

Hi Curt,

I will be having the same setup. By "increase volume in the subwoofer jack in the receiver", you mean the subwoofer level in my AVR setup (-3 to +3). Thanks.

Hi,
Normally there's a bigger range in the the receiver subwoofer output volume than -3/+3, it's usually more like -10 to +10. In your case you may need to max it out. If this isn't clear, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello

Could somebody give me the wiring of straps on the amplifier for a DD12 in 220v setting.
I have one in 110v setting, and I want to modify it in 220v for french voltage. I put some photos of the straps :

The Velodyne DD12 amplifier :

http://phil.charlet.free.fr/krell/DD12_1.jpg

On the components side :

http://phil.charlet.free.fr/krell/DD12_2.jpg

The straps, near the orange caps

http://phil.charlet.free.fr/krell/DD12_4.jpg

This is the 110v cabling
I hope you give me the 220v cabling...

Thanks

Philippe

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Curt

Velodyne VX-10

Just arrived today, I have a onkyo receiver with a sub-woofer out, what type of connection is best? It's my understanding that some kind of y-splitter is best for this woofer. Can anyone give me a link to what I will need to hook this up.

Also, what should the ends of the cable at the Y be / stero inputs or Male inputs?

Thanks

Hi,
1) Run a single 'RCA' cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the subwoofer. Use a 1-female, 2-male 'Y' splitter at the subwoofer end of the cable, into both input jacks of the sub.
2) Put the phase switch at '0' on the subwoofer.
3) Place subwoofer in or near a corner and away from any room openings.
4) In the receiver call speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer.
5) In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three-fourths of the way up.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt:) Should it face the corner

As to performance it doesn't really matter much. I'd have it face listening position, looks much better that way.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Obviously, thanks for the help. I must say these woofers are very well built, quality.

Hi,
Thanks for the feedback. IMO, for the price, they are the best.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, I have a 14x20 space, going with a 110" microperf, along with some B&W 7.3s for behind the screen and CDS3s (4) for sides and rears. Which sub would you recommend? Also, can it be placed behind the screen as well? Thanks.

Hi,
You didn't give ceiling height or a budget. Assuming you have about 2500-3000 cubic feet there are many choices. They can all be placed behind the screen. If this 14x20 space has any permanent openings, that changes things. On these recommendation questions, a phone call really works well as we can go in-depth to different possibilities.
Some subs to consider;
1) DD-15 The best possible unit for H/T and music.
2) SC-1250 amp driving one or a pair of SC-15s, SC-12s, or SC IC/IFs.
3) SPL-1500R, SPL-1200R
4) DLS-5000R or DLS-4000R
These are more or less by descending price. There are other possibilities.
I invite you to call and we can go over pros and cons and come up with the best custom solution for you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt or Bruce,

WOW, this thread is really really long. I am currently running an SVS Sub with no EQ correction, when recently calibrating my system I noticed a TON of highs and nulls and I am not sure I want to go through the deal of buying a BFD and setting it up.

I had read that Velodyne makes some great subs with an Auto-EQ feature in the DD and SPL lines.

Room is 3888 Cubic feet, corner loaded sub. Music>Home Theater. I went on the website and it says I should run a DD15 or SPL1500R. I have a budget for an SPL1500R or maybe a DD12, the DD15 might push my budget too much. The site doesn't get real indepth as far as the differences between the DD and SPL lines. I went to 2 dealers yesterday, one was a high end dealer and it took about 20 min for the guy to hook up the DD sub, I then went to a "box store" and they had an SPL sub (just one) and the guy couldn't even get it to turn on. Needless to say I was a little surprised at the lack of success I had in my search.

What is the major differences between DD and SPL, and what would you suggest in my situation? btw, my pre/pro crosses the LFE at 80Hz, everything above goes to the mains and below goes to the Sub. THANKS!!!

B&W 804
McIntosh MX132
McIntosh MC150
McIntosh MC7205

Curt or Bruce,

WOW, this thread is really really long. I am currently running an SVS Sub with no EQ correction, when recently calibrating my system I noticed a TON of highs and nulls and I am not sure I want to go through the deal of buying a BFD and setting it up.

I had read that Velodyne makes some great subs with an Auto-EQ feature in the DD and SPL lines.

Room is 3888 Cubic feet, corner loaded sub. Music>Home Theater. I went on the website and it says I should run a DD15 or SPL1500R. I have a budget for an SPL1500R or maybe a DD12, the DD15 might push my budget too much. The site doesn't get real indepth as far as the differences between the DD and SPL lines. I went to 2 dealers yesterday, one was a high end dealer and it took about 20 min for the guy to hook up the DD sub, I then went to a "box store" and they had an SPL sub (just one) and the guy couldn't even get it to turn on. Needless to say I was a little surprised at the lack of success I had in my search.

What is the major differences between DD and SPL, and what would you suggest in my situation? btw, my pre/pro crosses the LFE at 80Hz, everything above goes to the mains and below goes to the Sub. THANKS!!!

B&W 804
McIntosh MX132
McIntosh MC150
McIntosh MC7205

If you don't like your SVS sub, those Velos would probably be good choices. Another option is to keep the SVS and get a Velodyne SMS-1. It's basically a standalone version of the EQ used in the DD series. The SMS-1 is $600, so it's not near as cheap as a BFD, but it has the simple setup of the DD subs without having to purchase a new sub. Just a thought. Of course, the DD's are great subs as well, so moving to a DD-15 or so would probably work well too. Based on the recommendations I see Curt give often here, your room might be pushing the limits of the DD-12. The SMS-1 would just be much cheaper for you. Good luck.

If you don't like your SVS sub, those Velos would probably be good choices. Another option is to keep the SVS and get a Velodyne SMS-1. It's basically a standalone version of the EQ used in the DD series. The SMS-1 is $600, so it's not near as cheap as a BFD, but it has the simple setup of the DD subs without having to purchase a new sub. Just a thought. Of course, the DD's are great subs as well, so moving to a DD-15 or so would probably work well too. Based on the recommendations I see Curt give often here, your room might be pushing the limits of the DD-12. The SMS-1 would just be much cheaper for you. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. I like my SVS, I am just getting tired of the black cylinder look and when I was having the calibration issue, I kind of was thinking about getting something a bit more attractive AND something that has an Auto-EQ function. The SMS-1 is too much for me, I might as well just get the new sub at that point, or hassle with the set up of a BFD.

Sounds good, just thought I'd throw the suggestion out there in case you didn't know about the SMS-1 already :).

I'm having a heck of a time finding this information. What is the difference between the MKI and MKII models of a ULD 15? Can someone point me to a good place that details the particular changes?

Hi,
THere were no performance differences. The series II had added amplifier protection for more reliability. The series I uses a 5-din connector cable for the servo loop, the series II uses a rca cable. There are no drivers or driver parts for either unit. There is no service available for the series I amplifier. We can still work on the series II amps. I'm very familiar with the ULDs, so if you need more give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Velodyne VX-10, its set up with Y-splitter, volume at around 12 o'clock set to around 100. The phase button in the out postion.

Receiver: Onkyo SR-505 75 watts per channel- speaker set to small, 80 , volume up at around plus 6 it goes to plus 12.

I'm not feeling the punchy bass, watched Day After Tomorrow last night and was underwhelmed. If I crank up the volume all the way on the sub, much better, however I understand I should not do that. Is my receiver not providing enough amp?

Music, its great.


Suggestions?

Hi,
Try the phase at '0', and raise the sub volume in the receiver to +10. You do need to keep the volume of the VX no higher than half way. In or near a corner will help and if your room is larger or opens into other rooms a larger sub would be better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Try the phase at '0', and raise the sub volume in the receiver to +10. You do need to keep the volume of the VX no higher than half way. In or near a corner will help and if your room is larger or opens into other rooms a larger sub would be better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Why keep the volume no higher then half way? My only real corner that does not open to another room is were the TV is. I'm going to try to put the sub in that corner behind the TV stand, maybe that will work.

Hi,
In order to keep the distortion low and prevent clipping and thermal problems, the volume on this amplifier should be kept below half way. The corner behind the TV stand should work fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Great, Thanks, PM Sent

Well its all up to the placement. I also did the reverse test by placing the sub were I would be sitting and walking around low to the ground, trying to find the area with the most output. The following example also helped , "Rectangular Room" is my room layout to a tea, my sub is in the same spot as the picture, although its under a tall counter of the adjacent kitchen.

http://www.hdtvorg.co.uk/technology/home_cinema_speaker_placement.htm

I'm now blown away by my new, addition.:)

Can anyone that uses dual DD-10's comment on their performance? I'm looking to install dual subs with a small foot print in my 2400 ft^3 room. They will compliment 2 Dynaudio towers. Each one will be placed between a tower and my component cabinet.

Thanks!

Hi,
1) Run a single 'RCA' cable from the receiver's subwoofer jack to the subwoofer. Use a 1-female, 2-male 'Y' splitter at the subwoofer end of the cable, into both input jacks of the sub.


I usually listen at low levels and I have raised the receiver output and use the y-splitter but it is not enough for the sub(DD-12) to start playing. (When I temporarily raise the volume enough to get it going I can back down to really low levels without problems. )

I have 2 subwoofer outputs on my receiver and would like to know if connecting them both to the sub instead of the y-splitter would make any difference and if that would be safe to do?

Hi,
You can certainly try it. I doubt if it will make any difference but it won't hurt anything.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 85804430

I'm new to this Velodyne thread and have a couple of questions. I have a ULD-15 Series II, is it okay to have the amplifier sitting on top of the woofer cabinet? I'm using a Denon AVR-3808CI, running Audyssey EQ I've read that it's best to have the sub crossover on the 3808CI set to 120Hz. I know the standard crossover point for a ULD-15 is 85Hz. Should the 3808CI be set to 80Hz? Can the crossover points in the ULD amp be changed easily? Thanks.

I have a Velodyne CT-100 subwoofer that I bought at CC several years ago. For some reason, it no longer works. The red LED still lights, but there is no sound. I have tried another subwoofer on my AVR, so I'm certain that's not the problem.

I hate to trash the CT-100, but I don't know if there's anything else I can do???

Can the amplifier be replaced at a reasonable cost?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Thanks Curt, was wondering if it could damage the DD-12. Will try the double connection to see if it works better then the Y-splitter

I have DLS5000R which is about 3 and a half years old. It's hooked up via a "Y" adapter to the RCA inputs from a Marantz receiver.

Two days ago, my sub, with no signal being sent to it, began making a thumping noise. After further investigation, I've determined that it is the sub and no matter what the signal, all I hear is some pops, clicks and small unintelligible noises off and on from it, but all very intermittently. I also get some odd short sounds from it when I turn the power switch on and off with no signal going to it. I'm pretty convinced either the amp or some part of the circuitry is malfunctioning. (I know...I'm a real genius!)

Any thoughts Curt? And I guess the next question is, I'm in Michigan, so what repair options would I have and if it is an amp, what might that cost? Any help would greatly appreciated!

Lars

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
They will have you send in the amplifier section for repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
They will have you send in the amplifier section for repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I had a feeling that was going to be the case. Hopefully the amp section won't be too costly to ship and more importantly it won't be too expensive of a repair.

Thanks for the info and help!

Wow, lot of info here. I have read a ton of posts but have not come to a good conclusion so hopefully someone can help....

Is the DSP-10 considered to be very much better than the VRP1200?

I am looking at both at CC (open box). The DSP-10 is $220 at the VRP1200 is $140 so any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hi,
What is the size of your room? Are there permanent openings into other rooms? If so, what is the total cubic displacement? It is most important to have the proper size subwoofer. If your two choices are correct for room size then my money would go for the DPS. It has a better more powerful amplifier, a better driver and a much nicer enclosure. In addition you have the DSP features including presets, volume up/down and night mode all easily accessable on the front panel. As I've stated before the subwoofer is a key item and can really add that smile of satisfaction when you hear the explosions and rumbles done correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Can anyone that uses dual DD-10's comment on their performance? I'm looking to install dual subs with a small foot print in my 2400 ft^3 room. They will compliment 2 Dynaudio towers. Each one will be placed between a tower and my component cabinet.

Thanks!

Bump for more looks.

Hi,
I tried to send you a PM and it bounced because your in-box was full. You need to answer and delete some PM's. I suggest you call me if you want to discuss your question in-depth. Be happy to help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Well finally have the money for a sub...the whole spending $600 on a sub kinda has me in a bind, i want a good one but at the same time im sitting here "Is this what i want" lol, thanks to Curt he recommend the DSLR3750, at the same time...im thinking is the best for the room its going on, dunno if i wanna get the 4000 or stick with my game plan...lol, i really want a new sub before MGS4's release...

So the question is, what is the best place at the best price to order this...i was hoping one would pop up cheaper somewhere :-p

Hi,
Sorry I can't help you with pricing as that's up to the dealer. I would however recommend serious consideration for the DLS-4000R, if that's works for you. Bigger is usually Better.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt

Do you think or see in the near future the DD Series being updated to take measurements from multiple sitting positions. I can get a pretty flat response across the frequencies from the main sitting position. However, when I begin to move the mic around to the other sitting positions, I begin to see dips and peaks. I would really prefer to have an overall good balance across all of the frequencies which includes all of the sitting positions versuses having a real good frequency response just from the main sitting position only which does not include the other sitting positions.

Hi,
Well there's the 'Mic-5' kit which enables you to use up to 5 microphones located in different locations and those signals are all fed via a mixer to the DD mic input. I don't know if future software can do averaging schemes or not, but the request will be noted. Many place the single mic in the middle of the seating area and get fairly good results for the total area.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Here's a weird question:

The magnets in the subs are pretty powerful right? Is there any chance they might demagnetize other magnets in the other speakers? I have my main speaker 1 foot away from my sub. Does Velodyne have any requirements when placing the subs close to other speakers?

Hi,
Well there's the 'Mic-5' kit which enables you to use up to 5 microphones located in different locations and those signals are all fed via a mixer to the DD mic input. I don't know if future software can do averaging schemes or not, but the request will be noted. Many place the single mic in the middle of the seating area and get fairly good results for the total area.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

'Mic-5' Kit? Is that on your site? How does that connect to the DD sub?

'Mic-5' Kit? Is that on your site? How does that connect to the DD sub?

yes it is

http://www.velodyne.com/products/product.aspx?ID=17&sid=495a824i

Yeah picture and all. The mics plug into the mixer, the mixer plugs into the DD mic jack.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Yes, saw it. Thanks. What's the price? I clicked on Buy Now just to see if I could see the price; but, I received an error page.

Here's a weird question:

The magnets in the subs are pretty powerful right? Is there any chance they might demagnetize other magnets in the other speakers? I have my main speaker 1 foot away from my sub. Does Velodyne have any requirements when placing the subs close to other speakers?

Hi,
No problem at all. Many times I have placed satellites on top of subs. In fact that's been a common practice for years. Not to worry.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Yes, saw it. Thanks. What's the price? I clicked on Buy Now just to see if I could see the price; but, I received an error page.

Hi,
$799. complete. It's usually a 'special order' item so many dealers may not know of it. Any Velodyne dealer may order it. It's most commonly used by 'Custom Installers'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
$799. complete. It's usually a 'special order' item so many dealers may not know of it. Any Velodyne dealer may order it. It's most commonly used by 'Custom Installers'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

So, I can't directly order it from Velodyne? I have to go through a dealer?

Hi,
We normally don't sell direct. I'll check and get back to you since this is a special item.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
We normally don't sell direct. I'll check and get back to you since this is a special item.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Ok. Thanks.

So, quick question Curt....

Since i did love the sound of the DPS, and you showed me the DLS3750R and 4000R. I dont have a measuring tape but just looking, i'd say im looking at putting in a 12X17, give or take a foot. There are 2 permnant openings, 1 leads into the hallway, one into another room, 1st floor everything is connected with openings that lead into another room....so there is a kitchen, hallway, living*where i am*, and opening to upstairs...so right now, with the Polk Rti8's, FXiA4, and CSi3, it sounds great, but i 100% agree with you, about how a sub makes or breaks your system and how you want the right sub so it brings that smile to your face. I like the DLS since it has volume control ( respect to the neighbors)...Anyway, you told me that this sub is good for gaming too, which is one of the reasons im really looking deep into this sub....trying to get all info i can about it...

I want the max out of my Wii, Xbox 360 and soon to be PS3...
Since I got into HD movies and how much the sound makes me smile, I have an Tos A35 but i will also be adding a Panny BDP50 as my BR player...

Anyway, i said quick but it ended up not being quick...lol, thanks for all your help....

Hi,
I sent you a PM and BTW it seems like you need a DLS-5000R minimum.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,
Great thread. I am looking at getting either the DPS-10 or VRP1200. What kind of results could I expect in a very small room, only 1375 cubes? Will either of these subs be overkill? I do expect to move them later in life to a larger space, but for now, I don't want to overpower the rest of my system in this tiny space. Thanks, Mike.

Im about to buy two SC8s and the SC-1250 amp.

Does someone have the specs on that amp?

Im about to buy two SC8s and the SC-1250 amp.

Does someone have the specs on that amp?

http://www.velodyne.com/products/specs/sc-1250.html

Picked up the DPS-10 Wednesday for really cheap brand new...and all I can say is WOW. This sub really performs. Tons of output and very clean. I don't imagine there are too many subs that could out perform this little gem in the < $250 category. Thanks for guiding me to this sub Curt. Regards, Mike.

Picked up the DPS-10 Wednesday for really cheap brand new...and all I can say is WOW. This sub really performs. Tons of output and very clean. I don't imagine there are too many subs that could out perform this little gem in the < $250 category. Thanks for guiding me to this sub Curt. Regards, Mike.

I picked one up earlier in the week and I am really likening it so far too.

Hi,
Good to hear you're enjoying the DPS. I totally agree there's no way you could do any better for your requirements.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430

Hey curt, just curious if you guys(Velodyne) have any plans out there to update your line of DD subs, or if Velodyne is looking at making a successor to the great DD line of subs.

I'm not suggesting that they are inferior, but the product line is starting to age, please take no offense here.. But Motor Technologies have gone through some major changes as of recent years , just kind of interested in what Velodyne has in store for us in the near future. Trust me, I am continuously impressed with the technology that the DD offers with a built in SMS, it has advantages like no other sub on the market....

Also Curious as to whether there would be successor to the SMS-1.
I love my SMS but find myself constantly looking toward the future of cutting edge tech...

I know SVSound is working on and soon to be releasing their new Subwoofer EQ the SVS AS-EQ1 with Audyssey built into the platform, I would like to think that Velodyne has something in the works for an alternative here...

Thank you for always being a voice to the people for the Velodyne consumer. Actions like that are priceless from a corp of this magnitude in a world of continuously failing customer service... You are truly a top notch individual and your dedication is very much appreciated.

Hi,
Thanks for the kind words. Certainly there will be a replacement for the DD's and SMS. The truth is there is no set time table for the replacements. With download software upgrade capability, the lifespan of a product is greatly enhanced. We are aware of all the new technologies and will consider and research them as well as some that are in development and beyond. The current DD's on a output verus distortion level are still in a class above the other subwoofers anywhere near their price range. So we will not bring out a replacement just for change sake, but when we can indeed offer a major performance improvement. Frankly none of us are aware at this point as to direction the product may take, and that's a good thing as all options should be studied.
Thanks for your interest.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

Do all Velodyne subs have an infrasonic filter? I read the SMS does not have a defeatable infrasonic filter.

Thanks Curt....

Well I have to say, that the DD line is, has been and will continue to be for some time, Subs - that are at the top of the heap in regards to performance and functionality in todays high end world. They definitely set the bar high, for many to follow.

Appreciate you thoughts....

Patrick