Curt,

Do all Velodyne subs have an infrasonic filter? I read the SMS does not have a defeatable infrasonic filter.

The SMS filter is pretty much defeatable if you set it for the lowest point possible (5hz) which IMO is more then plenty, unless you have subs that will play with authority less then 10hz... Only a few subs have been able to set claim to that fame... they are either multi-thousand dollar products, or they are DIY projects that are so large they will not be the small footprint like any of the DD subs. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12500971#post12500971

The SMS is capable to use as an EQ for even this setup...


Or a Thigpen Rotary Subwoofer, check the price on that thing sometime.

Hi,
Yes all Velodynes have infrasonic (usually referred to as subsonic) filters as do most subwoofers. The filter protects the subwoofer and avoids a waste of amplifier power. In it's lowest setting the SMS-1 is down only a couple of db at 5hz, that should work for most any use.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Or a Thigpen Rotary Subwoofer, check the price on that thing sometime.

OMG! :eek:

What a super idea! Out of my price range though. ;)

I'd like to bump this topic up and revisit it. I'm experiencing exactly the same thing with my 3-week old DLS-5000R. It's a replacement for a wonderful Velodyne CT-150 that was recently damaged in a flood. Although I like the remote control on the 5000R, this pop/thunk is quickly becoming too much for me to handle. I would describe it exactly as David did, and under the same circumstances as well. I'm listening to a Ravel SACD right now, and the dynamic range of this disc is fantastic. But in the soft passages, the 5000R just can't decide what to do, and that "thumping" sound is easily as detectable as the volume of the music in parts. I'm using a Y-adapter into the sub from my Onkyo Pro 885 pre/pro, and have configured my audio using the Audyssey system in the 885. Starting with a volume of 35 on the sub, Audyssey set my sub trim level at -8.5 dB, which I bumped up to -3.5 as a matter of course just because I like a little extra bass. Oh, and the first thing I tried was turning off the "auto-on" setting, so that's not it. When the level of the input is high enough to the sub that it's not cutting in and out, it performs beautifully. I have no issues with its performance in my system, but this thud is probably going to be a deal-breaker for me. Based on my previous experience with my system, my old CT-150, and what I've read on this board, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong. Is this something I'm going to have to live with? If so, does anyone want to buy a DLS-5000R that hasn't even been broken in yet? ;)

Thanks for any input or suggestions.

Wow, I came here searching for this exact issue but I didn't realistically expect to find anyone with the same issues. I've had my Velodyne SPL-1500R for ~8 months or so (bought authorized) and I've been experiencing these sound "thumps" ever since I purchased the unit. Up until now I've lived with the sound but it's really starting to irritate me at this point. I really can't say anything else to describe it that hasn't been said in this thread. A subtle but completely audible "thud" sound that occurs during quiet passages of sound. I've tried switching between "active" vs "always on" power and the thud still happens. I've also tried increasing the sub level in the receiver, but the thud remains. After reading some of these posts I don't believe it's a defect that's present in my sub only, which leads me to believe an exchange won't solve the issue.

What to do?

The other night my fiancee' and I were watching a movie and she (who isn't the most attentive person to details in sound) actually asked during the middle of the movie "What's that pop sound that keeps happening?"

Hi,
I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with the SPL-1500R. To my knowledge the previous post you referred to was cleared up by some set-up changes. I sent you a PM requesting important set-up information so I can see if this could be the problem. I will also forward your post to our engineering department as soon as I receive the additional information from you.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with the SPL-1500R. To my knowledge the previous post you referred to was cleared up by some set-up changes. I sent you a PM requesting important set-up information so I can see if this could be the problem. I will also forward your post to our engineering department as soon as I receive the additional information from you.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks for the reply, and I've just replied to your PM with the requested information.

Wow, I came here searching for this exact issue but I didn't realistically expect to find anyone with the same issues. I've had my Velodyne SPL-1500R for ~8 months or so (bought authorized) and I've been experiencing these sound "thumps" ever since I purchased the unit. Up until now I've lived with the sound but it's really starting to irritate me at this point. I really can't say anything else to describe it that hasn't been said in this thread. A subtle but completely audible "thud" sound that occurs during quiet passages of sound. I've tried switching between "active" vs "always on" power and the thud still happens. I've also tried increasing the sub level in the receiver, but the thud remains. After reading some of these posts I don't believe it's a defect that's present in my sub only, which leads me to believe an exchange won't solve the issue.

What to do?

The other night my fiancee' and I were watching a movie and she (who isn't the most attentive person to details in sound) actually asked during the middle of the movie "What's that pop sound that keeps happening?"

I have no doubt that Curt will help you with your issue like he helped me. I've been waiting to follow-up my story when I had time to really tell the whole story, but here's the Cliff's Notes version:

The problem goes away when you set the master volume on your Velodyne lower than you think you need to if you're running any sort of equalization/room correction program like Audyssey. The sub level on the receiver/processor needs to be set fairly high, which it will be when your software sets the levels for your speakers. I originally followed the advice on the Audyssey board to set the volume on the sub itself to about 30-50%, and Audyssey set my sub level very low to compensate. When I set the sub's volume to about 10, Audyssey set the processor level much higher (of course), and I don't hear the problem much at all any more. Couple of times here and there, but nothing like it was before.

Hope this helps, and thanks to Curt for his eagerness to help out.

I have no doubt that Curt will help you with your issue like he helped me. I've been waiting to follow-up my story when I had time to really tell the whole story, but here's the Cliff's Notes version:

The problem goes away when you set the master volume on your Velodyne lower than you think you need to if you're running any sort of equalization/room correction program like Audyssey. The sub level on the receiver/processor needs to be set fairly high, which it will be when your software sets the levels for your speakers. I originally followed the advice on the Audyssey board to set the volume on the sub itself to about 30-50%, and Audyssey set my sub level very low to compensate. When I set the sub's volume to about 10, Audyssey set the processor level much higher (of course), and I don't hear the problem much at all any more. Couple of times here and there, but nothing like it was before.

Hope this helps, and thanks to Curt for his eagerness to help out.

That's exactly what I did. I had the sub volume at 50% and then ran Audyssey, which severely cut the sub-out level in the receiver (Denon 3808ci). I'll report back here after I try increasing the sub-out level in the receiver and decreasing the sub volume.

When you set the sub volume to ~10 and ran Audyssey, did you increase the sub volume after the Audyssey setup was complete? I have a feeling I'll want to run my sub a little hotter than Audyssey wants it to.

I've a question about SPL-1200R dynamic drive control system (DDCS). Had been looking around but most sites dosn't says much regarding this system. I know this system controls driver displacement and excursion. But does it prevent cone over excursion (clipping?) like what the Distortion Limiting System (DLS) system does? Does the DDCS limit the output of the SPL sub up to a certain level to prevent or protect the driver from over excursion?

For example, "IF" the SPL sub is able to play a 20Hz at 100db and that's the limit of the SPL output volume and any higher it'll clip. So when it reaches that level, no matter how much i rase my master volume from the amp or volume of the SPL sub, it'll not play any louder because of the DDCS? If I am to raise the volume to say 100 on the sub it'll still play 20Hz at 100db even though I can reach 20Hz at 100db at 30 volume? Is that how a DDCS works? Or does SPL models have another sort of over excursion prevention system?

And does anybody knows how much is a SPL model cone excursion? I've notice that my SPL-1200R doesn't move much on the cone, or is that the max excursion already? I want to maximize my sub but don't want to overdrive it, anyway to know? I hope someone could help me on this, thanks for any suggestions and help~! :)

Hi,
I'll run your questions by engineering to see what specifics are available for release. There is as noted, general information regarding DDCS on the website. The DDCS is an active, signal-based system incorporating several exclusive proprietory technologies from Velodyne that assure linear cone movement, and control the driver's frequency and distortion characteristics. This reduces distortion to a fraction of many competitive subwoofers. In addition like all Velodyne subwoofers, the SPL subs incorperate anti-clipping circuitry to limit the amplifier clipping distortion.
Hope this helps,
Curt (928) 858-4430

BTW,
I'm in the middle of a very bad flu attack and have temporarily lost my voice so I apologize to any who have tried to call. Feel free to leave a message and I will return it as soon as able. A warning; stay away from this flu, it's the worst I've ever had.
Thanks and Take Care.
Curt (928) 858-4430

When you set the sub volume to ~10 and ran Audyssey, did you increase the sub volume after the Audyssey setup was complete? I have a feeling I'll want to run my sub a little hotter than Audyssey wants it to.

Oh yeah, absolutely. I think you'll find that almost universal around here to bump up the sub channel level in the receiver/processor after running Audyssey. I bump mine up 5 dB right off the bat and do fine tuning after that if I want to. This actually played perfectly into what Curt led me through via PM and email. He suggested that the sub channel level should be at least +6 on my pre/pro which has adjustable channel levels from -12 to +12. Don't know what the level settings are like on the Denon, but the ratio would likely be about the same. Setting my Velodyne to about 10 on its volume and then running Audyssey led to an initial sub channel level of +1.5, which I raised to +6.5 and I'm very happy.

The only concern I had about any of this, which I expressed to Curt half-jokingly, was that I wasn't taking advantage of this wonderful piece of equipment to its fullest. I believe the analogy I used at the time was owning a Ferrari that you only drive 20 miles per hour. He calmed my fears and assured me that even at a sub volume of 10, I would still see great results. Naturally, he was right. :D

Good luck, and enjoy! I watched The Matrix on HD DVD the other night, and the scene when they're firing the machine gun from the helicopter was jaw-dropping. These Velodynes are great pieces of equipment, and when combined with good receivers/processors like the Denons or Onkyos (and others of course -- I'm not trying to slight anyone) and good source material, takes the HT experience to a whole new level.

Oh yeah, absolutely. I think you'll find that almost universal around here to bump up the sub channel level in the receiver/processor after running Audyssey. I bump mine up 5 dB right off the bat and do fine tuning after that if I want to. This actually played perfectly into what Curt led me through via PM and email. He suggested that the sub channel level should be at least +6 on my pre/pro which has adjustable channel levels from -12 to +12. Don't know what the level settings are like on the Denon, but the ratio would likely be about the same. Setting my Velodyne to about 10 on its volume and then running Audyssey led to an initial sub channel level of +1.5, which I raised to +6.5 and I'm very happy.

The only concern I had about any of this, which I expressed to Curt half-jokingly, was that I wasn't taking advantage of this wonderful piece of equipment to its fullest. I believe the analogy I used at the time was owning a Ferrari that you only drive 20 miles per hour. He calmed my fears and assured me that even at a sub volume of 10, I would still see great results. Naturally, he was right. :D

Good luck, and enjoy! I watched The Matrix on HD DVD the other night, and the scene when they're firing the machine gun from the helicopter was jaw-dropping. These Velodynes are great pieces of equipment, and when combined with good receivers/processors like the Denons or Onkyos (and others of course -- I'm not trying to slight anyone) and good source material, takes the HT experience to a whole new level.

Thanks for the reply. At a sub volume of 50 Audyssey had set my sub out level to -1.5dB. Last night I reduced the sub volume to 30 and increased my sub out level to +6.0dB (as suggested by Curt) and the "thud" sounds seem to have went away. I assume (perhaps wrongly) that the "thud" sound is completely dependent on the volume of the subwoofer itself, and independent of the sub out level on the receiver. If that's the case then maybe the "thud" sounds still exist but they're just too quiet to hear at this point (and if that's the case, that's just fine....as long as I don't hear it).
Whenever I get the chance I'm going to sit down, start up some quiet materal, and slowly increase the volume on the subwoofer while keeping the sub out level on the receiver at +6.0dB. If at some point I hear the "thud" sounds again, I'll be sure and write down what the volume level is on the subwoofer. If I increase the volume on the sub by a large amount and I never hear the thud sounds, then I was wrong and the increased sub out level on the receiver completely fixed the problem.

Thanks to Curt and bradandbree, and hopefully Velodyne owners who have this issue in the future can find these posts and clear the issue up. I'm guessing there will definitely be more of these issues as more and more receivers are implementing the Audyssey technology and the Audyssey instructions specifically tell you to set sub volume at 50%.

Thanks to Curt and bradandbree, and hopefully Velodyne owners who have this issue in the future can find these posts and clear the issue up. I'm guessing there will definitely be more of these issues as more and more receivers are implementing the Audyssey technology and the Audyssey instructions specifically tell you to set sub volume at 50%.

My pleasure; it's nice to give back to the community we have here. Regarding the Audyssey-recommended settings, one thing Curt told me sticks with me. I'm paraphrasing here, but it was like this: Audyssey and other EQ/room correction systems assume all subs are the same, and they are not. Very true.

Picked up the DPS-10 Wednesday for really cheap brand new...and all I can say is WOW. This sub really performs. Tons of output and very clean. I don't imagine there are too many subs that could out perform this little gem in the < $250 category. Thanks for guiding me to this sub Curt. Regards, Mike.

Any help on the low price??? :)

Any help on the low price??? :)

I believe that CC is selling them new for about $260. I picked up a floor model from them for $220.

i've followed this thread for a long time, but have only posted once or twice. sorry for not making a contribution. once again i need to ask some infromation.
is it possible to use two dd18's using xlr? would the mike input work in any way? or are the rca cables required for that?
is there any advantage to xlr at all? am i nuts for even thinking of this?

Hi,
The mic input is just for the mic. There is no way to daisy chain two DD's using XLR cables, rca cables are required. XLR cables are quieter on long runs and have excellent connectors. I have never seen any sonic improvement though.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

i've followed this thread for a long time, but have only posted once or twice. sorry for not making a contribution. once again i need to ask some infromation.
is it possible to use two dd18's using xlr? would the mike input work in any way? or are the rca cables required for that?
is there any advantage to xlr at all? am i nuts for even thinking of this?

2 DD18's would be awesome but you can't EQ them both together.

curt c or anyone else,

Do you know if the SC1250 is rated at 1250w into 8 ohms or 4 ohms?

curt c or anyone else,

Do you know if the SC1250 is rated at 1250w into 8 ohms or 4 ohms?

Hi,
1250 into 4 ohms.
Curt

Hi,
1250 into 4 ohms.
Curt

dang, so if only one sc12 or other 8 ohm speaker is being used, it is getting far less power?

Yes less, but still plenty. The nice thing is it has plenty of power to drive one SC (8 ohm) speaker and then maximum power when driving two with a 4 ohm load. Most SC installations start with two or add a second later, that's the beauty of the SC series.
Curt

2 DD18's would be awesome but you can't EQ them both together.

yeah you can eq them together. that is what happens when they are daisy chained. you then just keep tweaking until you get the cuve you like. i was just checking to see if they could be chained via xlr and if so would that be better.

yeah you can eq them together. that is what happens when they are daisy chained. you then just keep tweaking until you get the cuve you like. i was just checking to see if they could be chained via xlr and if so would that be better.

Ok, manually maybe, but not using the auto eq feature. Curt can reconfirm.

Hi,
The daisy chain passes volume up/down and various preset information via the remote. It does not pass equalization information. Only one DD can be eq'd at a time.
Thanks,
Curt

Can anyone tell me what it is on the picture.
It's my SPL-1500R and it looks like a wire between the woofer and the cabinet.
In real it looks bigger, like a knob.

What is it?

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z316/kingpin112_photo/temp/velo_spl1500r.jpg

Hi, I've recently got hold of a new SPL-1200R, so far everything is well except there's one thing I need some advice here. :confused:

I notice the SPL emit some sort of uneven, sometime plusing low volume high frequency sound (like humming noise, electrical like sound) when the main power switch is on or when it's in standby mode. It is quite audible from my listening position during a quite passage in movies. I've check and the sorce is from the back of the unit, not from the front where the driver is, and the sound and the loudness of the noise dosn't change if I mute the SPL or raise the volume. My cable is shield and I don't have the same probem before with my old SPL-1200R, nothing is different now from the old SPL except the unit have been change.

Is this normal that some unit do emit some sort of noises? What causes it? Anybody have the same experience with your SPL-1200R? Thanks~!

Hi,
The noise is certainly not normal. I would try a different cable or reterminate the existing one. If it continues return it to the dealer or contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks, I'll try to call the dealer tomorrow, I really hope this will be the last time I've to go through this trouble again.... :(

Hi,
The daisy chain passes volume up/down and various preset information via the remote. It does not pass equalization information. Only one DD can be eq'd at a time.
Thanks,
Curt


but, i followed the instructions in the manual didn't i end up "roughly" eq-ing both?

separately, how can i tell if there is a phase problem between two subs, trial and error?

Hi,
The confusion lies in the definition I suppose. The method suggested in the manual is effective and works well. You do a 'self-eq' (3-2-1) on the slave and then do a 'manual-eq' on the master with both units playing. You are however eq'ing the master only while the mic is receiving input from both subs. Your mic is tied to the master and it's the one you're eq'ing. Those eq commands are not passed from master to slave via the 'daisy-chain' RS-232 cable. This method does provide excellent results. If you need clarification give me a call tomorrow or later. In most cases there will not be much in the way of phase issues but trying different phase settings on the master as you eq will perhaps provide an even flatter response.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I'm having trouble blending my Microvee with a pair of Energy RC-10 Bookshelf speakers. I've tried setting the speakers as small and large wit different x-over settings, but they just don't blend right. There seems to be too much output from the sub even at its lowest setting, but it doesn't seem very clean. I hear hear noise from the front of the sub when theres no signal present. Almost like its trying to output something. Any suggestions ???

PS: I'm using my old Sub a Def Tech Pro100 and it blends very well with the RC 10's. I'm using a 60HZ setting and set to large.

Thanks,
Ed

Hi,
As to blending, there's volume, location and crossover. I find the MicroVee blends very well with different speakers I've used it with. If there's too much output at the lowest setting on the sub, go into the receiver and lower the volume for the subwoofer channel. There should be no output from the front of the sub with no input. I would return the sub to the dealer for verification of the problem and exchange if defective.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have been the proud owner of an F-1500R sub for around 10 years now, and not had any unusual problems with it until a couple of days ago, when, during an abnormally loud playing session, there was a loud "clack", followed by a loud, sustained hum. And now it will not power up whatsoever. I am now faced with several options.

The first option would be to try and get it repaired (I love this sub), but that would probably require shipping it to Velodyne, and my gut tells me that the likelyhood of getting it back as good as new (if it's even repairable in the first place) is questionable.

The second option would be to replace it. I know Velodyne's website recommends the DD-12 on their discontinued products page, but I am also looking at the SPL-1500R or possibly even the DD-15, and I'm not sure which would be the most suitable replacement for the F-1500 (I wouldn't necessarily be looking to "upgrade").

I know that's pretty general and open-ended, but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi,
Your amplifier can be serviced for a reasonable amount. Only the amplifier would be sent in. For that option and estimate contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
My recommedation for a replacement would be the DD-15, which has the servo technology of your F-1500R and many new features for maximizing it's performance in your room. I suggest you go to the Velodyne website; www.velodyne.com and then 'which product' and finally the 'sizing wizard' to see which Velodyne would be recommended for you total displacement. Be sure to count all rooms that have permanent openings to your main room. The DD-15 will have more output than your F-1500R, and additional reserve is a good thing.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I'm having trouble blending my Microvee with a pair of Energy RC-10 Bookshelf speakers. I've tried setting the speakers as small and large wit different x-over settings, but they just don't blend right. There seems to be too much output from the sub even at its lowest setting, but it doesn't seem very clean. I hear hear noise from the front of the sub when theres no signal present. Almost like its trying to output something. Any suggestions ???

PS: I'm using my old Sub a Def Tech Pro100 and it blends very well with the RC 10's. I'm using a 60HZ setting and set to large.

Thanks,
Ed

Ed,
If you're not using a SPL meter to set volume levels so that all speakers and sub are equal in volume, then that's the first place you should look. Most of us use one of the Radio Shack SPL meters.

I have been testing the Velodyne sc-1250 with two sc-8 all weak in my small home office.

I have AV123 ref .5 speakers and they are very small but always had a great detail in the mid and high ranges. I have to say that Im really impressed with the SC-8s!!! I have full range two channel setup in my office now.

I do have a question about the amp, I was thinking about trying it with my two DIY subs. They are 4 OHMs each.

can just plug them into each channel? What would the power be?

Is there any to get the sc-1250 to give 1250Watts to just one of my 4 ohm subs?

thanks

Hi,
The SC-1250 is a single channel (mono) amplifier with two speaker terminations. You cannot use your two DIY 4 ohm speakers in parallel, that would be a 2 ohm load. If you use one of your 4 ohm speakers (to either termination) the amp will provide full power. If you use them both, they would have to be wired in series presenting a 8 ohm load to the amp. The amp is rated full power into 4 ohms and half power with a 8 ohm load. THE AMP IS NOT TO BE USED WITH LESS THAN A 4 OHM TOTAL LOAD!!!
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

If you use one of your 4 ohm speakers (to either termination) the amp will provide full power.

So one 4 Ohm speaker will get 1250 Watts? Thats pretty good, I was just curious on how well it will drive my Sub(s)

I will not connect a 2 Ohm load to it!


I will compare it against my QSC RMX1850 amp....which will drive my other sub (Bridged 4Ohms gives 1200 Watts)

So one 4 Ohm speaker will get 1250 Watts? Thats pretty good, I was just curious on how well it will drive my Sub(s)

I will not connect a 2 Ohm load to it!


I will compare it against my QSC RMX1850 amp....which will drive my other sub (Bridged 4Ohms gives 1200 Watts)

My understanding is that the specs say it is 3000w peak, so it sounds like it should do pretty well.

My understanding is that the specs say it is 3000w peak, so it sounds like it should do pretty well.

yeah, I never understand the peak and RMS stuff...3000W peak does sound great though and its more then enough head room.

Curt,
I have an HGS-18. I've been more than pleased with it since I got it back in '99, but is there anything that can be upgraded on it by Velodyne? I have no desire to get a new subwoofer, but would be willing to change or add anything that might improve its already incredible performance. Thanks.

Hi,
There are no upgrades that would improve the performance of the HGS-18 except possibly the addition of the SMS-1. With the SMS-1 you would have almost all the features of the DD-18 which replaced the HGS-18. The frequency response and low distortion of the HGS is second only to the DD. With the SMS you could add 'state of the art' digital room management to the HGS-18. It has been a very popular addition for the HGS line of subwoofers. I'm glad to hear you've been very pleased with your subwoofer the past nine years.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the info, Curt.

Curt,

A while back you suggested the Velodyne DLS5000R for my 24X14X8 livingroom. Well I received it through Vann's within 3 day for free shipping and it fills my room really WELL!!!!! Movies-music have never sounded better.

One question though. Is it harmful to place your subwoofer to close to your AV equipment? I place it right next to my TV/AV because that is the sweet spot in my room (after crawling around on the floor with the sub in my listening position). It is 8" from the wall and 8" from my AV equipment.

howcass

No problem at all. Good to hear the DLS-5000R is doing the job.
Enjoy.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Jim,
Thanks for the advice. I think the problem I'm having with the sub blending is related to the microvee's servo. The sub worked fine when I first got it. Now I hear humming and a gushing sound from it when there's no signal. I don't think it's producing clean output resulting in the blending issue.

Hi,
The MicroVee does not have a servo. If the sub is defective you need to return it to the dealer for exchange or contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Happy new Velo owner here,

After much deliberation over the DD-12 or the SPL-1200R, I went with the SPL-1200R & I couldn't be more pleased. This puppy was a joy to set up & puts a new meaning to the term "seemless integration". My two channel listening has now been elevated beyond my wildest dreams. And as far as HT goes, well, the velo displaced my SVS 25-31plus cylinder sub. The velo is that good!!! And thanks to Curt for passing on his vast knowledge & providing all the info I needed. To refresh your memory Curt, I'm the guy with the AAD 2110 monitors, Krell amp & SVS cylinder sub (just sold). Thanks for all your help.

I'm loving the performance of the velo so much that I'm considering another one. What are the +/- of adding another identical sub. Is it really worth the extra $$$$. Thanks, Phil

Question for any of you DLS-3750 owners. I just watched Pulse and it has a lot of bass in it. I noticed on the scene were she goes into the server room, that the sub was putting out a fair bit of port noise. I am using it with an Onkyo 604 and have calibrated my system. The port noise does pretty much go away if I switch the EQ to Jazz, but I prefer the overall impact of the Movie EQ setting for movies.

Any thoughts, is a scene like this too much to ask from this sub?

Cheers.

Good God Curt, my Velodyne SPL1500R (cherry) sub arrived today. It is friggin huge! It completely dominates my 12' x 20' space. Wife is going to be pi$$ed!!
No way this is going to pass the WAF.

I might have to go down to the SPL-1200R; maybe even the SPL-1000R.

If anybody needs a brand new SPL1500R in Cherry, PM me:) I paid $1200 for it. Any reasonable offer might make my life easier!

Happy new Velo owner here,

After much deliberation over the DD-12 or the SPL-1200R, I went with the SPL-1200R & I couldn't be more pleased. This puppy was a joy to set up & puts a new meaning to the term "seemless integration". My two channel listening has now been elevated beyond my wildest dreams. And as far as HT goes, well, the velo displaced my SVS 25-31plus cylinder sub. The velo is that good!!! And thanks to Curt for passing on his vast knowledge & providing all the info I needed. To refresh your memory Curt, I'm the guy with the AAD 2110 monitors, Krell amp & SVS cylinder sub (just sold). Thanks for all your help.

I'm loving the performance of the velo so much that I'm considering another one. What are the +/- of adding another identical sub. Is it really worth the extra $$$$. Thanks, Phil

Hi,
Adding a second identical subwoofer will provide about 6db more output assuming placement is such that the two support each other. If you need the reserve output it's very good, as to 'worth the money' that's pretty much system dependent. I usually use two in my systems and also enjoy the balanced cosmetic effect. My recommendation is go for it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I love my Velodyne DPS-12! However, awhile back there was a constant hum coming from it. This occured whether or not there was a source being fed into it. I unplugged it for several months. Today I powered it back on....No hum, but all blue LEDs stay lit and it won't produce any bass. Any ideas?

Being that it is about 3 years old, should I take it somewhere to have it serviced, return for a replacement, or buy new? All advice is greatly appreciated! Please respond back to rbirge@gmail.com if at all possible. Thanks! -Ryan

Hi,
I would certainly consider having it repaired. Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Good God Curt, my Velodyne SPL1500R (cherry) sub arrived today. It is friggin huge! It completely dominates my 12' x 20' space. Wife is going to be pi$$ed!!
No way this is going to pass the WAF.

I might have to go down to the SPL-1200R; maybe even the SPL-1000R.

If anybody needs a brand new SPL1500R in Cherry, PM me:) I paid $1200 for it. Any reasonable offer might make my life easier!

Wifey thinks it's way too big, but she did not say I had to return it....whooooohoooohoooo!!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D

Hey, tell her BIG is good. Besides when you get the 60" screen, it should blend right in.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Wifey thinks it's way too big, but she did not say I had to return it....whooooohoooohoooo!!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D

Good to hear! :D Enjoy!

must.... resist.... temptation.... want to make joke about wives and 15 inchers.... :)

(I have both by the way) :D:D:D

must.... resist.... temptation.... want to make joke about wives and 15 inchers.... :)

(I have both by the way) :D:D:D

^^^ TMI, dude...:p

Resist!!

When you calibrate your sub, do you place the mic in the seating position or do you put the mic so that it's center of your sitting position.

Not critical. I normally put it on a box or stand right in front of listening position.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Not critical. I normally put it on a box or stand right in front of listening position.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Ok. Thanks Curt

Curt, I was told to ask you. I recently bought a demo VRP-1200 from CC. Sounds Great! I have one problem though, it's does not turn off when I power off my other equipment. What could it be? Should I unplug it nightly?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Hi,
The small light on the amp panel (item #5) should turn to red or orange (standby) after the system has been turned off for 15 minutes or so. If it stays green, disconnect the input cable from your receiver and see if it changes to red after 15 minutes. If it goes into 'standby' (red light) with no input cable then there's low level noise in your system keeping the unit on. If it stays green after 15 minutes with no cable then the unit is defective and the amp can be returned to Velodyne service for repair. In the meantime you could leave it on or disconnect it nightly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
The small light on the amp panel (item #5) should turn to red or orange (standby) after the system has been turned off for 15 minutes or so. If it stays green, disconnect the input cable from your receiver and see if it changes to red after 15 minutes. If it goes into 'standby' (red light) with no input cable then there's low level noise in your system keeping the unit on. If it stays green after 15 minutes with no cable then the unit is defective and the amp can be returned to Velodyne service for repair. In the meantime you could leave it on or disconnect it nightly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

After unplugging it for 15 minutes the light turned orange. Also when I came home from work it was orange. So I guess it's alright?

Thanks.

Yes! Operating correctly.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I purchased a DD 18 last year and I'm experiencing an occasional problem. The sub simply begins to flutter is the best I can describe it. Completely out of whack. I have to turn it off. After five minutes or so I can usually turn it back on and it's ok. Have you heard of this before?

Hi,
No I have not heard of this. I would try a reset (8-9-0). Make notes of any settings as they will be lost. What is the volume set to on the DD? Does it happen during heavy passages or at random?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a 2 year old Velo DD12 that I purchased from a store in Chicago. I have since moved to Japan and the subwoofer works fine here. However, in the next couple of months, I will be moving to Hong Kong and the voltage is different there (220V) so can you please tell me where (either in Japan or Hong Kong) I can get my unit modified for Hong Kong voltages?

Hi,
I PM'd you the contact information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Newbie to the forum here with an HGS-10 circa 2000 exhibiting what seem to be common problems - popping noises and motorboating. Questions are:

1. Can I remove and return amp for repair/replacement or do I have to ship complete unit?
2. What kind of cost am I looking at?
3. Has Velodyne redesigned/upgraded the amp to avoid what seems to be a design fault?
4. Are there any third party repair options?

Thanks.

Hi,
1) Yes you would remove the amplifier for return. It's small and lightweight.
2) Contact Velodyne service for estimate. (service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-3851
3) There are upgrade modifications which would be included with the repair.
4) I would avoid third party options. They do not have servo amp experience and usually charge more. IMO, Velodyne is quicker, less expensive and the amp will be repaired correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt
I just scored a miniVee and I hope to use it as a 2nd sub in a system based on a Yamaha 663 as a pre-pro, feeding a Marantz SR 12 Reference series AV amp (used as a power amp)

I am already using a SVS PB 12 + in a 3.5 by 4 by 4m sized room.
A room sweep shows a dip in the all important 28-34Hz region.
Can I do something to make the miniVee boost the frequencies specifically in this region?

Thanks

BTW I am running Monitor Audio GS series as my main speakers.

A pic of my room:
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x244/petetherock/DSC_2935.jpg

Hi,
Using a small sealed box (MiniVee) with a bass reflex design subwoofer is a big mismatch. The Bass reflex sub is efficient, the MiniVee is inefficient. You have nothing to lose by trying but I doubt you'll have much success. I would also suggest trying the MiniVee alone and see what you think. F/R dips can usually only be corrected by changing location of the subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Cheers Curt, maybe I might go out and get another miniVee, the sound was incredible for its size even in a rather large demo room in Circuit city...

BTW I saw an open box unit there going for rather little money, what is the oldest age of the sub? I am guessing less than 2 years since this model came out in late 2006?

What should I check for?

Thanks again Curt

Hi,
All Velodyne's have the manufactured date on the amp right with the serial number. There have not been any changes in the Mini Vee series.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

When my new dls5000r wakes up from inactive mode I here a popping sound. Is this normal or is something wrong with my new sub?

Hi,
Increase the receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack about three fourths of the way up and back off on the sub's volume to compensate and use a 'Y' splitter into both sub inputs. Call me if this doesn't solve the problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hey Curt,

Took your advice and turned my Onkyo 705 to a volume of 5db vs 0db and ajusted my sub volume lower. It sounds great. I'll let you know if I still here the POP when it comes out of inactive mode. (Yes I am using a cable splitter!!).

Thanks,
howcass

I’m new. (at least to this thread)…

Can someone talk to me about the Velodyne Mini Vee?

Is it a good deal in a medium/small room? ~~~12X12 open to the kitchen~~~

thanks

Was there a change to the DLS-5000 amp at one time? I've seen ads stating 600W RMS/1000 W Peak ratings for the amp, as well as, 1000W RMS/2000W Peak?

Hi,
There was never a change to the DLS-5000R amplifier. It was always the SPL amplifier and it is 1000 Watts and 2000 peak. In the beginning there were mistakes made by some, as to it's rating and some websites have never been corrected.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I’m new. (at least to this thread)…

Can someone talk to me about the Velodyne Mini Vee?

Is it a good deal in a medium/small room? ~~~12X12 open to the kitchen~~~

thanks

Hi,
Since you did not give the kitchen dimensions, I can only answer in general. The MiniVee is good for small rooms, the MiniVee-10 is probably a better choice for your situation. If in doubt always go bigger. I suggest you calculate the total cubic displacement of both rooms and additional areas if there are any, and then go to; www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then 'sizing wizard'. Enter the displacement number and see what subwoofers are recommended. If possible call me tomorrow and we can go into detail on a recommendation for you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Does anyone know a "secret" to polishing this gloss black surface? It seems like even using plastic lens cleaner give the illusion you are scratching it.

I answered your earlier PM regarding this.
Curt (928) 858-4416

Hi,
There was never a change to the DLS-5000R amplifier. It was always the SPL amplifier and it is 1000 Watts and 2000 peak. In the beginning there were mistakes made by some, as to it's rating and some websites have never been corrected.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks, Curt. Appreciate the prompt response. Would you recommend, for the budget conscious, the DLS-5000 for a 3,200 ft^3 sealed room? How would the DLS-5000 compare to the SPL1200R in this space, assuming the SPL1200 is at the very top end of the budget.

I wouldn't necessarily need the small size of the SPL1200, but it would allow for additional placement options(i.e. nearfield) in an oddly shaped space. With something the size of the DLS5000 I'm limited to the front left corner, where I seem to experience some "boominess" with other subs I've had in this space.

Hi,
If it's primarily H/T I would go with the DLS-5000R for sure. The SPL-1200R would be marginal. The DLS will have the needed reserve necessary for explosions, rumbles, etc.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
If it's primarily H/T I would go with the DLS-5000R for sure. The SPL-1200R would be marginal. The DLS will have the needed reserve necessary for explosions, rumbles, etc.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt, thanks again. You prompt responses are appreciated...on a Sunday no less.

Hi, like an idiot, I've been using my VRP-1200 for about 2 weeks through only the right line level jack. I'm wondering if there is any permanent damage that could be the result of this.

In the meantime, I've disconnected the sub from everything and will be going to buy a Y-splitter tomorrow before any more use.

Hi, like an idiot, I've been using my VRP-1200 for about 2 weeks through only the right line level jack. I'm wondering if there is any permanent damage that could be the result of this.

In the meantime, I've disconnected the sub from everything and will be going to buy a Y-splitter tomorrow before any more use.

Nope, it won't hurt anything. Using both the the left and right inputs only boosts the input signal to the sub, which might help if the sub doesn't always come out of standby mode if you have it set to turn on automatically (often a problem if you aren't listening very loudly). You're fine - no harm done :).

Right. No harm done. It just needs the additional input for maximum performance.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 959-4430

Does anyone know a "secret" to polishing this gloss black surface? It seems like even using plastic lens cleaner give the illusion you are scratching it.

I was wondering the same thing. So, what's the answer?

Hi, i have a DPS-10 and when i turn off all my components, all the lights on the top of the sub stay blue. Is this normal? Is it supposed to go into a stand by mode? Or am i getting noise like you eluded to in a previous post?

thanks in advance

Hi,
Push down presets #1 and #4 (movies and games) at the same time for about 1 second to activate the auto on/off feature. When activated the lights should go off after about 15 minutes of 'no signal'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I was wondering the same thing. So, what's the answer?

Hi,
The official recommendation is a damp soft cloth followed by a dry soft cloth. For occasional dusting I use a soft dry cloth. Zork52 had good results with a well known car wax filling in some scratches. I suggest you PM him direct if you wish to try that and be careful as I cannot officially recommend it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I have been using a SPL-1200 II for about 5 years and have been happy with it. It did take a lot of time to find the best location for it. My room is relatively small at about 2000 cu ft. with no opening's besides doors. I'm looking to upgrade to a SPL1200R or DD12. I'm familiar with the room correction features. Performance wise what are the differences in these two subs? Thanks, Mike

Hi,
To keep it simple, the DD can play deeper (lower frequency) and with less distortion than the SPL-R. To my ears they both sound great. The SPL is easy to set up with push button auto-eq. The DD has a computer on board with almost no limit as to auto or manual eq of the room including the ability to have up to 5 seperate eq's in memory. You also have choices of crossover frequencies, slopes, subsonic frequencies, different volume settings for the different presets. I suggest you download the DD manual to see all the features and flexibility that are available and see if that appeals to you. And I suggest you also call me as I am very familiar with all Velodyne models.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

anybody knows how to take-off the back panel?

I've just come across a DLS-R 3500 which has been reported to be "burnt" and would like to inspect the interior to understand whether it is repairable

I'm in Europe and have no access to a Velodyne Service Center (but yes, I have a 110V 60Hz power source)

thank you, alessandro

Hi,
You just remove the outer parameter screws and pull the plate amp out. Sometimes you need to use a small flat blade screwdriver to get it started.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hey curt,

thanks again for the advice, but after turning the sub volume on the onkyo 705 to 5db and lowering the sub volume on the sub, it is still popping. when the sub turns on from inactive mode i can hear a distinctive POP. i'm using a monster 400 sub cable 12 foot and a monster y-adapter. i'm worried that i have a problem with my new dls5000r.

howcass

Hi,
If the sub is less than 30 days old return it to the dealer for verification and possible exchange or contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt, My FSR 18 amp went in to velodyne for service, I got it back yesterday, hooked it up and NOTHING Dave said it could be a frozen voice coil. I pulled the cone and the silver wire is broken from the cone. Dave gave me a swap out price for a DD 18 or a DD15.
Is it worth trying to fix it a a pro amp shop nearby that deals with studio equipment or should I figure our how to mail the amp and cone back?

I NEED MY SUB, life is just not fun with only 1 15" in the loop.
Thanks, Erik

Hi,
Well I'm not a speaker mechanic and it's your money. Seems to me you have nothing to lose by taking the speaker to the repair place and see what they say. If they can repair the leads so they will last, that sounds like a good option. If not then you know the other option. It's not difficult to mail the driver and amp back. BTW, if you go for the trade option, I would make it the DD-18.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am relatively new to this forum so I'll say Hi to everyone: HI

I have been browsing off and on this forum for tips and suggestions in the past. In fact, bought a few equipments based on comments and reviews here, including the Velodyne sub. I really like the "punch" this sub puts out...big sound in a small package.

Anyways, this is where I need your help. My system has been up and running perfectly for over a year without a hitch until now. It is a 7.1 surround. The sub is not making any thumping sound anymore, but just statics. Nothing has been changed to the system recently.

It started a few days ago, when once a while I would hear a very faint static sound. I thought it came from the speakers, but today when watching 'I Am Legend', I get a constant static from the sub when there's supposed to be bass. I know this because I've watched this movie 3 times already.

I have tried off/on, unplugged cables and power, changed phases, adjusting knobs but to no avail.

The sub's signal comes from a Denon AVR-2807 through the LFE's crossover frequency at 80hz. I used a Y to distribute the signal to both LR channels. The Low-Pass Crossover Knob is around the 80hz also. Auto On/Off switch is set to 'Active'. And the Volume is set around mid-range.

I have never turned up the volume on the receiver to the point where it's uncomfortable. I would really appreciated any help and suggestions you can give.

TIA,
Derek Ngo

Hi,
Sorry to hear the subwoofer is having problems. First I suggest you do a software reset by pressing presets in the following order, 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. That will return everything to factory settings. If that doesn't help, on Monday please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi guys, I'm temporarily using a Velodyne VRP-1000 (borrowed for a couple months till I decide on a permanent choice) and got online to read the manual for connections. For a receiver like my Denon 3808CI do I really need to split the sub line-level out signal to both inputs on the back of the sub? Seems kinda strange that the internal circuitry on the sub wouldn't "know" that the LFE input (R or L -- can't remember which was labeled) should be used as both. Just double-checking with you guys before going out and buying a splitter Y-connector.
Thanks in advance!
Dan

Hi,
For the VRP-1000, you need a 'Y' splitter into both inputs (about $4. at Radio Shack). You also need to raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in the Denon to near maximum and keep the sub's volume well below half way.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks very much for the quick reply.

Hello.

I have had a Velodyne HGS 12 for a number of years now, and it has been a great unit. However, just recently I have noticed a 'rattling' sound coming from the subwoofer, which dissipates when either the volume is reduced or the are less LFE in the soundtrack. I have done my best to verify that the rattling isn't a physical issue, so I am left to wonder if my subwoofer is blown?

I a bit out of my depth here, so I was hoping Velodyne support could give me some suggestions for confirming that it is indeed blown, as well as what could be done about it.

Thanks.

Hi,
Normally it's the amplifier that needs service, not the driver. The amplifier is easily removed for shipment to Velodyne. Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I'm using my DD-12 with a pair of bookshelf speakers that are 2dB down at 70Hz. My receiver can be set to a 100, 125, or 150Hz cut-off frequency.

Can you give any recommendations as to which settings I should use on my receiver and on my DD-12?

Hi,
Without additional info, such as the woofer size in your speakers and type of material and loudness I would set the receiver's crossover at 125hz and bypass the DD's crossover. If you will PM me the additional info I'll have a better idea, or call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi, as the owner of a DLS-5000R, I have a question in regards to the "EQing" of my theater setup. The DLS has four separate EQ settings and I am curious which one out of Movies, Rock, Jazz, or Games would be the preferred setting to flatten my response for my Ezset/EQ in my HK. All speakers are set to small at 60 - 80Hz.

Would it be better to have a flat response with "Jazz" and then switch on "Movie" for my TV and DVD watching? Or go with "Movie" for the flat response? As a side, I find with "Movie" and running my auto eq setup from a Reset on the subwoofer, I am hitting -8 to -9 on the AVR subwoofer volume.

Any experienced opinions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi,
Jazz/Classical is the setting on the DLS you should use for your receiver's eq. Once the HK has set it's levels, manually override the volume for the subwoofer channel and bring it into the + area or at least the half way up. You can back off on the sub's volume to compensate if necessary. Start the process by having the DLS at factory volume setting. If you need to reset the DLS, push the preset buttons in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). If you need more help or have questions, please call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Bruce or Curt,

I have a Velodyne question as well. My HT project is under way. I currently have a DLS-4000R and it is absolutely fantastic. My original idea was to get 2 of these or 1 DLS-5000R . I first decided to go with baby steps and purchased one 12. Now I wish I had the 15. I am thinking of taking this 12 moving it elsewhere in the house to use and just get a single 15 for the HT. My room is 118 sq ft. the ceilings are 7". Should I buy 1 more 12 or move the 12 I have to another room and get the 15. I would think the 15 would do more than the 2 12's would. But, I am no expert. Please help.

Hi,
Actually two 12's will perform about the same as one 15, so either way will work well. I find the DLS-15R really does well on the rumbles and explosion hits. Are you sure on your footage? 118 Sq. ft X 7' ceiling is only 826 cubic feet which is very, very small. When calculating cubic displacement all permanent openings into other rooms must be accounted for, those additional rooms have to be counted till you reach a dead end. It must open into other rooms, otherwise the DLS-12R should be more than enough.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

After further calculations I nearly doubled the room to a volume of 1506 cubic foot. The main Theater room is open to a room in the back and a hall to another room without a door and the stairway to a closed door. So it looks as if I can go either way. I think I am leaning toward the 15. I like Low tones, and the 15 should go a little lower than the 12's even paired correct...

BTW thanks so much for the fast response.

Cheers.:)

Hi Curt
Just to report back on my experiment of using the SVS PB 12+ and the MiniVee in my 3.5 by 4 by 3.5m HT room.
I use the Yamaha 663 as a processor to my Marantz SR 12 as a power amp. The twin outputs go to each sub. The SVS is set to come in only lower than 40Hz whilst the miniVee does most of the work.

This works pretty well and I must say even when it is used alone, the miniVee does well to underpin music and add atmosphere to soundtracks, although the thump augmented by the SVS is much appreciated.

Regards

Pete

RKM,
Yes the 15 will go a bit lower than a pair of 12's, otherwise the performance is close to the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Yes the 15 will go a bit lower than a pair of 12's, otherwise the performance is close to the same.

Curt,

Could you enlighten me as to why two 12s wouldn't top a single 15"? My thinking is that the two 12s have 28% more cone area to push air with. Also, don't the two combined amps put out more power than a single 15" amp?

Hi,
Well he asked about deeper. In actual piston area of the driver's it's close. Regardless of amplifier power you have XMAX, the distance the driver can be pushed. And in this case the 15" has the SPL amplifier which is 1000 watts and the 12" has 200 watts so this was somewhat case specific. In my testing the difference is close, as I stated. You also run into the issue of placement and are the two supporting each other and to what degree. Either combination could work very well in the small room.
(The CHT-12R and CHT-15R are 220V versions of the DLS-4000R and DLS-5000R)
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Are there any near-term plans by Velodyne to update the Digital Drive Series subwoofers? More power, more driver excursion, or more features, etc?

Hi,
Nothing near term. All the latest technology and beyond is being considered for the next generation.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Any idea on when the next generation will be available? :)

No planned date at this time.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne,com

Hi Curt,
I just bought a Yamaha 863, and I have a Velodyne F-1500. I have connected the Velodyne using an interconnect cable from the subwoofer out on the Yamaha via a splitter to the "line in" RCA's on the Velodyne. On the back of the Velodyne is a knob called "Low Pass Crossover". It has values from 40Hz to 100Hz...can you suggest a setting for these? Also when running the YPAO (all speakers set as small...even though my mains are Klipsch Forte IIs) what should I set the volume and low pass crossover knobs to (back of the Velodyne)?
thanks,
Doug

Hi,
By calling all your speakers 'small', you activated the crossover in the Yamaha which is probably set to 80hz. Put the sub's crossover to 100hz and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in the Yamaha to near maximum. Set the volume on the sub to blend with the speakers. If the total room area is large the sealed box F-1500 may not be able to play loud enough for the Klipsch speakers in which case I would look at one or two DLS-5000R's.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Even though the frequency response of my SPL-1200R is 22-120Hz, at Jazz preset it'll still reproduce some bass even at 20Hz. I think it's safe to say that it'll try to reproduce down to the 15Hz range since at Jazz preset the subsonic filter is at 15Hz. But it's reproducing those frequency at low sound pressure level, please correct me if I'm wrong.

I've notice something about the cone excursion while it's playing materials with deep bass. For example, while playing the song "Bass I love you", I notice during certain passage into the song, the cone momentum turns slow, I would describe it as "vibrating loosely" movements. It's like the cone couldn't stop immediately after a fast excursion and end up stopping slowly, though I know it's just trying to reproduce the signal from the AMP.

I don't know how low the bass is in this song, but I'm quite sure it's quite low, maybe to the 18Hz or even 16Hz range? My concern is having the SPL reproducing low bass at this kind of range at high volume or over a length of time. Will this damage the sub in any way? Is there any protection circuit in the SPL series to protect against high volume of low Hz bass signal? Or it's actually all right in the first place? When I see how the cone move I think it dosn't seem ok, any advice on this? Thanks! :)

Hi,
Any bass reproduced below 20hz by the SPL-1200R is going to be way down and not to be considered or worried about. The subsonic filter (preset #3) will also eliminate anything below 15hz for protection of the sub. I am concerned about room size, including openings into other rooms and their size and at what volume you have the SPL set to. Also check to see where the volume is for the subwoofer channel in your receiver. Please PM me the answers (or if possible, call) and I'll have a better idea for recommendations.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a DLS-4000, not R, I bought it fron 6th ave about 3 years ago. After fairly light use, the amp died. I was dissappointed in the reliability but replaced teh amp. $145 and Velodyne applications and parts were quite helpful. The gasket glue had stuck the amp to the enclosure I had to find out what I could pull on without breaking teh whole thing.

The inside of the unit was very simple. Vented enclosure with MDF walls and nothing inside but 1,1" curtain of very light stuffing. Does that not leave modes due to enclosure dimensions? What's in the new design or something more?

Hi,
In a bass reflex design very little damping material is desired, and no the deminsions do not create modes. As in all bass reflex designs the back wave is pressured out the port or slot to reinforce the low end.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt,

I have a medium low shag carpet on a pad, I think concrete under that.

Right now I have rubber feet on the bottom just to make sure the whole port is clear. Doesn't sound bad, definitely lived free and died hard during the movie.

What's best underneath, rubber feet, nothing, sub dude, or something else?

Hi,
Like cables and wire, there are many opinions. I use nothing or short rubber feet, that works fine for me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am curious about something, my brother in law used to work for Circuit City and bought the Velodyne CT120 direct from Velodyne for a special price. I aquired this sub not too long ago and LOVE it! It's 8 years old and still kicks butt in my home theater over many of the other home theaters I have heard at friends houses. I went online to look up the manual on it, and found that the diagram for the backside does not look like the sub I have - rather it looks like the CHT12. The heatsinks are bigger and the layout is correct, but the model number and the look of the front are different. Was this a design change that was later incorperated into the CHT12? What is the true wattage of my sub, I cannot believe it to be only 120 watts.. Please fill me in.. Did I get a different design for the CT120? Regards!

curt c,

I've been using a DD18 with a Pioneer 59TXi AVR for several yrs. I think I talked to you on the phone early on about the proper sequence to do EQ, but I had used the DD's EQ first then let the Pioneer set sub output levels & a 63 HZ tweak with their MCACC system. Front speakers are set to large with 80 HZ x-over. I have a pretty good flattened bass response with phase set at 0, with only 2 bass room modes which I've reduced as much as I can by careful adjustments to the EQ & Q values.

The DD18 volume has been set to 30 which gets me close to 0 db on the old Pioneer's output. Typically, it'll set it to around +0.0 to -1.0 db.

Now for my problem:

I've recently bought Pioneer's new flagship AVR, the SC-09TX and its newer "advanced MCACC" wants to set sub output to -7 to -8 db with the same volume in its "symmetry" mode. When I listen to the test tones the receiver outputs, the sub is clearly louder than what I know the old receiver put out. I've re-run MCACC with the DD volume set to 25 and then MCACC sets sub level to -4.5 db.

Also, when I look at the bass response with MCACC engaged the bass response is clearly much lower below the front's drop-off, until I engage Pioneer's own phase control filters with 3 parametric EQ points & Q's. The old receiver did not have the built-in phase control. Based on listening, I prefer to leave Pioneer's phase control off using Magnepan planar speakers.

Is it possible Pioneer is running a 10db boost that makes the sub output louder than the older model? They now include a LFE attentuation adjustment with 0db as default, but it can be reduced to -20db in 5 db increments.

Would it be better to lower the DD18's volume, adjust the receiver's LFE attentuation -10 db, or just let the MCACC system set it to -7~-8 db? Is it better to have the receiver's calibrated output close to 0 db or does it make a difference?


Thanks for your help. I've read some of the Audyssey posts about lowering sub volume but not sure how that would apply to Pioneer's setup.

ss9001
Steve

Hi,
Sorry I really can't offer you much solid help here. I know many of the automated systems in the receiver's tend to really limit the output going to the sub which is not a good thing. I've had many complaints from consumers and reviewers about the results they obtain from the auto set ups in the receivers. I have no idea what Pioneer may be doing on the auto level settings. You might check with them and see why the new unit is so different.
I still set everything manually using my ears and get great results. If it were me I would manually raise the receiver's output for the subwoofer channel to at least half way (different receivers have different graphs) and back off on the DD to compensate. That's certainly a healthier way IMO.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am curious about something, my brother in law used to work for Circuit City and bought the Velodyne CT120 direct from Velodyne for a special price. I aquired this sub not too long ago and LOVE it! It's 8 years old and still kicks butt in my home theater over many of the other home theaters I have heard at friends houses. I went online to look up the manual on it, and found that the diagram for the backside does not look like the sub I have - rather it looks like the CHT12. The heatsinks are bigger and the layout is correct, but the model number and the look of the front are different. Was this a design change that was later incorperated into the CHT12? What is the true wattage of my sub, I cannot believe it to be only 120 watts.. Please fill me in.. Did I get a different design for the CT120? Regards!


Hi,
There was a change in the amplifier late in the CT series that carried over to the CHT series. Both amps performed about the same. Your true power was about 120 watts but you have an efficient (bass reflex) design which does not require much power. It cannot be compared to a small sealed box which requires a great amount of power.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Sorry I really can't offer you much solid help here. I know many of the automated systems in the receiver's tend to really limit the output going to the sub which is not a good thing...
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

I've compared the 2 receivers' channel outputs. All the channels across the board, except the sub, in the older Pioneer are set 6 dB higher than with the new Pioneer receiver. The sub level with the old is 7.5 dB higher than the new but at least it's consistent with difference in output with the other channels.

I have to conclude that the calibration curve test tones in the new receiver are 6 dB louder across the board. This explains some of what I see are the differences. How best to proceed we can discuss on phone. :)

Thanks for your help.

ss9001
Steve

I have a Velodyne CT-150 that I’ve had for years. Several months ago, the built-in amplifier section of it started randomly sending very loud popping sounds to the subwoofer. They are so loud I’ve had to leave the unit off permanently for fear of damaging the speaker. There are no known electrical problems in the power strip it's plugged into (several other components are plugged into this surge protector). The CT-150 is hooked to the front speaker outputs of my Onkyo receiver. My front speakers are hooked to the sub so as to use the built in crossover. I now operate my system without the CT-150 turned on (I haven’t removed it from the loop yet). There’s nothing wrong with my Onkyo receiver; no random noises are sent to my front speakers. I live in a 4th floor walk-up and the subwoofer weighs 72 lbs. There’s no way I can take it in for service. My choices are to remove the amplifier section and find someone to repair or replace it, or to discard the subwoofer and buy a new one. I’m pretty adept mechanically; can this amplifier section be removed by me and sent somewhere for repair? Are there any instructions available for doing this? I’d hate to junk this otherwise fine subwoofer.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. The amp is easily removed and can be sent directly to Velodyne service. They will provide all the information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I just picked up a minivee and am quite impressed with the size. CAn you tell me the best recommended setup. The room is 12x16x7. I am using an Onkyo 605 receiver.

Thanks,

Blake

Hi,
I sent you a PM. To make any recommendation, I need a lot more information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am considering getting a used HGS-12 shipped in October 2000 but am concerned about the amplifier section and servo. Does this have the fixed amplifier section that doesn't hum? (the remote sensor input is in the HGS x series position). Also what is the life of the servo mechanism on the woofer, do these wear out and need replacement, are they expensive if they fail?

Thanks

Hi,
What many people refer to as hum in the HGS series is the 'rushing' sound of the analog servo circuit. This is normally only heard when your ear is close to the driver. Any real hum would be a problem with a component in the amplifier and can be repaired. The HGS subwoofers were replaced by the current DD series. We have replacement drivers for the HGS series. The servo device in the HGS driver is not replaceable but does have a very long lifespan. The HGS amplifiers including servo circuitry can be serviced. We have many servo subwoofers still going strong, some since the early eighties. I have several HGS subwoofers, some from the very beginning and have never had an issue with the amp or driver. As with any used product purchase do a through check before making a decision. I suggest you contact Velodyne service/repair (408-465-2800, ext. 2848) to see if any work has been done on the unit (you'll need the serial number) and estimates of any amplifier work and update that might be required in the future.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

To Curt from Velodyne, i've just bought a receiver with Audissey EQ (integra DTR 7.8) and adjusted my system with the Audissey EQ with the DLS-5000R volume set to Volume 50 and EQ set to Movie. The Audissey EQ set the sub to -15 db, is there an almost "ideal volume setting on the sub" to get the best possible output without overpushing the volume of the sub for nothing?

By the way, the IR control on the sub is way to sensible to most of my component, ex: lutron lighting, Oppo 983 DVD, had to cover it...........

Thanks

Sacha

Hi,
Volume '50' is way too high for the Velodyne. I would set the Velodyne to volume '20' and use preset #3 for the Audissey automated set-up. Another method would be bring the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel up in the + area and set the Velodyne's volume to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt, 20 was not enough, had to set it to 30 and preset 3 (jazz-classical) to keep the sub at a db level that matches the other channels.

Thanks

Sacha

That's within an acceptable range.
Enjoy,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi i just signed up to this forum. I just setup my SPL1200R today and it's not working properly. I'm fearing i purchased from a scam artist. It appeard to be boxed new and i paid extra attention to look for any red flags.

However i can't get the power on light to show. I do get bass but with my amp turned to +12db and the spl1200r volume up all the way (again hard to tell with no led light) it isn't putting out that much bass. Obviously i can't setup any of the features either without that l.e.d. working. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's something silly and simple i've overlooked and not me being scammed. Thanks for any input!
Jason

jason,

Isn't there a reset sequence? Check the owner's manual.

Hi,
It does appear the sub is not functioning correctly. I gather it won't take any remote commands. If it will, do a reset by pushing remote presets in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. Otherwise get back to the dealer for a replacement or refund. If you're dealing with an authorized Velodyne dealer, there will be no problem. Feel free to call me for more advice if needed.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

It's hard to tell if the remote is working. As an example if i have a movie playing (i can hear the sub) and i press the power on the remote it does turn the sub off and if i push the eq button i can hear it do it's phase thing. But when i push any other buttons i have way to tell if they are working without that l.e.d. I can't even tell where exactly the light is? Is it and l.e.d in the bottom left corner or does the velodyne symbol at the top light up?

I tried the 12344321 with the remote several times with nothing. Do i need to be pushing anything else while i do it?

I don't think i bought from a reputable dealer is the problem. Any other suggestions?

Hi,
We just spoke on the phone. The sub needs to be returned.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 959-4430

Hi,
We just spoke on the phone. The sub needs to be returned.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 959-4430


Thank you for your help Curt.

I need some advice on my HGS18. My dealer sent in my amp for repair and I think they replaced the amp. The sub seems to work fine now without any hum and the remote works but the blue led never lights up. When I was investigating the hum I had unplugged the multi connector and when I plugged it back in I was 1 prong off and I realized I did this because the sub would not turn on. I did this with the old amp not the new one. My question is did I fry my led when I plugged the connector in 1 prong off? It may have been burned out before this and I just didn't notice it. Is there an easy way for me to check this and or replace the led?:o

Craig,

I have an HGS-15. I had to replace the amp last year. Ever since I replaced the amp, the blue LED light stopped working. When I contacted Velodyne they told me that it's very difficult to replace and not worth the trouble, even though I would really like to have it working again. I believe that Curt from Velodyne who posts on AVS forum also concurred.

Mitch

Hi,
I don't know if the LED was damaged with improper hook-up or not. The LED is very difficult to replace. As I recall it is glued in place. You might verify that it is hooked up correctly. If you want more info about replacing the LED, contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

After posting I decided to take the driver out and have a look see, and it looks like more of a hassle than its worth and it does look like it is glued in place. Looks like there will be one less bright light in my theater which is really a good thing now that I think about it. Thank you for the response Mitch and Curt.

Hi,

I have a DD15, less than a year now, that shows a potential problem.

First time it happened several months ago, at a certain point the subwoofer stopped
singing and started emitting just a low pink/white noise.
At that time i tried switching it off, then pulled the power cord and at last everything
seemed to get back to normal.

The same thing happened yesterday, i made the sub "rest" for a small period and it
started working again, but the problem presented itself in a short time.

At the moment it works, tonight i'll see a movie and see (hear) what happens.

One of the problems is that the defect is erratic, so i risk turing in the sub without
the techies being able to hear and identify the problem.

Any ideas on what the problem could be?
Thanks :D

Hi,
Where do you have the volume set on the DD? I would start by doing a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote). Make a note of all your settings as they will be erased. Your unit is under warranty so if the issue continues contact your dealer and a new amp would be sent for replacement.
Thanks,
Curt

Last night I was watching a movie and the lower left light on my DLS-4000 started blinking and the sub stoped working. I shut it off for a while and then it worked for about 10 min. Then went back to blinking. I purchased it in Jan. 08' from what I am sure is an unauthorized dealer. If I have to replace the amp. What price range am I looking at, and is it something I can do myself. I am really bummed because it is a great product. Thanks.

Hi,
It sounds like the volume may be too high. Do a reset by pushing presets on the remote in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). This will put the volume back to factory setting. Make sure you are providing plenty of input to the sub. Go into the receiver and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to about two thirds of the way up. A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good idea. Avoid running the sub's volume much above factory setting. If you need a replacement amp, contact Velodyne service on Monday at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. If you need more info on hook-up call me on Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Where do you have the volume set on the DD?


13


I would start by doing a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote). Make a note of all your settings as they will be erased.

Thanks for the suggestion, i'll certainly give it a try. :)

Hi,
It sounds like the volume may be too high. Do a reset by pushing presets on the remote in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). This will put the volume back to factory setting. Make sure you are providing plenty of input to the sub. Go into the receiver and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to about two thirds of the way up. A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good idea. Avoid running the sub's volume much above factory setting. If you need a replacement amp, contact Velodyne service on Monday at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848. If you need more info on hook-up call me on Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

So, let me make sure I understand. from the reciever, one RCA cable to a "y" splitter. From the "y" splitter to both inputs on the sub.

I did as you said and so far so good!! It's back to working. I sincerly appreciate your help. I wish more vendors would be like you guys. Thanks again.

I have another question about replacing the amp on my HGS18. In the instructions it says to connect the red or copper wire to the J5 terminal and the silver or black wire to the J2 terminal. My main concern is I can't tell which wire is silver or which one is copper, even when I use a flash light! I used a battery to check the polarity of the driver wires and I know which wire goes to the positive and negative terminals of the driver. I just guessed that the red/copper would be + and goes to J5 and silver/black would be - and goes to J2? Hopefully + to J5 and - to J2 are a lucky guess!

I also noticed there is a square hole going from the driver enclosure to the amp enclosure but there is no gasket between the enclosure and the amp plate. Shouldn't there be a gasket between the amp plate and enclosure for a air tight seal?

craig,

My experience is on the HGS 15 and not the HGS 18 which may or may not transfer.

On the HGS 15, there is a rectangular gasket on a small printed circuit board (pcb)that when the amp is screwed down closes off the driver section. This gasket is rectangular with the inside area removed so that wires can go between the pcb and the driver. I've found with another HGS 15 that if the wires are positioned where the gasket can't lay flat, then you get some kind of air leakage noise, so its fairly important that you get the wires and gasket in there right.

If you're having problems identifying the copper wire, then you might want to ask someone else to look at it.

Craigslue,
I do not have the wire contact information you're requesting. If you need more help please contact Velodyne service tomorrow at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 from 7AM to 3PM Pacific Time.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have 2 older F-1200 subs that I use in my HT for stereo front subs off my Yamaha DSP-A1 amp. I'm replaceing the A1 with a Z9 and will hook the subs up stereo front again. These older subs are great performers, however the have no internal crossover bypass. How is the best way to set these up? Do I run the crossovers all the way up and then set the Yamaha's sub cut off point accordingly?

Thanks Jim and Curt

Yes mine has the gasket on the circuit board, I didn't thank of that. I will double check to make sure it is right. I'm pretty sure I have the wires correct but the way I am I will always wonder if its right or not. Its the little things that drive me crazy!:confused: I might just put on new connectors so I can get a better look at the bare wires. When I had the driver out I could tell that there was a silver and copper wire but on the amp end they seem similar in color. Its not really that big of a deal, a flick of the phase switch should correct the problem if the wires are reversed.

Hi,
DO NOT hook the wires up reversed, this is a servo unit and I'm pretty sure that could lead to issues. Check with service tomorrow if they say reverse is okay then we know.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have 2 older F-1200 subs that I use in my HT for stereo front subs off my Yamaha DSP-A1 amp. I'm replaceing the A1 with a Z9 and will hook the subs up stereo front again. These older subs are great performers, however the have no internal crossover bypass. How is the best way to set these up? Do I run the crossovers all the way up and then set the Yamaha's sub cut off point accordingly?

Hi,
Yes max out the sub crossover to 120hz and then select your choice in the Yamaha.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Yes max out the sub crossover to 120hz and then select your choice in the Yamaha.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt. Thanks for your reply. One other issue I have is that one of my subs had an accelerometer failure 2 times under warranty. The second time the driver and electronics were updated with newer components and now there is a definite difference in output and sound between the 2 making it rather difficult to set up/balance my system. Any suggestions?

Hi,
We don't do much service on these older units. There are no drivers or driver parts available. Some amp work can still be done. I suggest you contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 (7am-3PM PDT) to see what options are available.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,

There are a few toggle switches on the back of my Velodyne CT150 that I'm not sure are set properly (my reciever is an Onk 805):

Video/Audio : I have it set on Audio
Highpass 100 - 80 : set at 100
In/Out Xover: set on Out
Phase knob, from 0 to 180 degrees: set at 90

Are these correctly set? I'm sorry, but the manual is really vague...
Thanks in advance!

Hi,
1) Audio is fine. If you switch to Video it will be a tiny bit louder, I'd just leave it on Audio.
2) Assuming you're hooked up to the subwoofer jack of your receiver, you're not using the high-pass filter so it doesn't matter where you set the switch, either 80 or 100hz is fine.
3) If you set the crossover in your receiver, then 'out' on the sub is correct.
4) I would put the phase knob at '0'. If 90 degrees is louder go with that. Under most conditions you won't hear any difference in which case '0' is correct.
Hope this helps. If not give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt, I appreciate the help and just wanted to let you know I love my sub!!

Thanks. I'ts an excellent performer.
Enjoy,
Curt (928) 858-4430

OK stupid question time:D, has anyone remove their SMS 1 faceplate ?

I'm try to get the faceplate, engraved and chromed...Don't ask!

It seems simple enough but it might be a bit tricky, as most simple task appear to be.



Thanks

Djoel

OK stupid question time:D, has anyone remove their SMS 1 faceplate ?

I'm try to get the faceplate, engraved and chromed...Don't ask!

It seems simple enough but it might be a bit tricky, as most simple task appear to be.



Thanks

Djoel

I think that's going to void your warranty! :D

Are you going to put hydraulics on it too? :rolleyes:

I think that's going to void your warranty! :D

Not really worry about that, not many moving parts, beside by the time it breaks down I'll be paying out the pockets like most my gear.



[Are you going to put hydraulics on it too? :rolleyes:

Yeah how the hell did you know that!;)


Any geeks out there brave enough to crack one of these open?


DJoel

Hi,
I recommend you contact Velodyne service regarding removal of the SMS face plate.
(408) 465-2800, ext. 2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
I recommend you contact Velodyne service regarding removal of the SMS face plate.
(408) 465-2800, ext. 2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


Hello Curt

What I really wanted was to buy a SMS 1 faceplate, which I thought wouldn't have been a big deal...But I got denied:( I highly doubt I'll get a warm response when they hear what I'm going to do.


Thank you

Djoel

No we don't have face plates for sale.
Curt (928) 858-4430

No we don't have face plates for sale.
Curt (928) 858-4430


Yup...I was told:(, but on brighter note I called the number you gave me and they explain the procedure on the removal of the face plate..Sounded easy.

Thanks Curt

Djoel

Good, and Good Luck on your project.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

I just bought DPS12 and trying to connect it to my Onlyo 875. Consider me newbie, I connected sub's LFE to receiver's pre-amp subwoofer connection using regular phono cable (for testing). But no sound. Do I need to set something up or use high quality/special cable?

Appreciate your help.

Hi,
You do not need a special cable. Your receiver may need to be programmed. Go into the receiver's speaker set-up menu and call all speakers 'small' (if possible) and set the receiver's crossover for 80hz. You may need to get help from your dealer or Onkyo. You can do a reset on the subwoofer by pushing the presets from left to right and back in the following order 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. You can also try running the analog (rca) outputs jacks of your CD/DVD player direcly into the subwoofer's input jacks and play a CD. If the woofer plays, you know it's okay. If it does not return it for a replacement.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All,
I will be unavailable until Monday, June 16th. If you need 'Official Velodyne Support' today, please use the contact numbers at the Velodyne website (www.velodyne.com).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,
I just purchased an SPL1200R, to be used in a 1450 cubic foot room that does have a hall way opening. The sub will be placed on the same side of room as opening- but however on the opposite side of opening. So I guess that is alright. I have spoke to you in the past over the phone. From those conversations I did gather that you do NOT seem to be a big fan of the SPLR series. You highly favored the DLS series over the SPLR series. I don't know if it was just "bang for the buck" or other reasons. You even went so far as to say that one SPLR would sound pretty good in my room, but six of them would sound even better. I don't know if you were being sarcastic or honest. Maybe a little of both. Well I got the SPLR anyway- going against your infinite wisdom. Instead I read the reviews on the sub, and really could not find anything negative. Well my question is-what do you recommend a user of this sub can do to prolong the life of it. Although all the reviews were good- there were a few dealers who told me they stopped handling it not because of performance, but because of poor reliability. Any advice would be appreciated.
JIM

Hi,
First of all I am a big fan of the SPL series and if you read previous posts you will see so. It is and will continue to be my favorite small, non servo subwoofer, period! Total cubic displacement is critical and that's what I would be going by. For those who do not have the budget for the larger SPL's the DLS series is a good way to go. It's our bang for the buck product and that's what I say. You failed to provide the total cubic displacement, counting everything so I'm at a loss as to what may be the proper size for you. I also tell people who hear that the SPL is unreliable, that when used properly (right size), it is very reliable. I suggest you keep the volume near factory setting (35) or less, use a 'Y' into both inputs and raise the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer channel to about two thirds of the way up. If you need more please call again.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,
I apologize for the post. It was a senseless attack on your character. As I remember, you did say that one would be OK. But that you had heard as many as six at a time, and that they sounded even better. You probably were just trying to be funny- and I took it the wrong way. Now to my question. This total cubic displacement that you mention. Does that mean if the listening room is not totally enclosed, one must take into account the total area? My house is 1000 square feet. Are you saying I need a sub to fiil all areas open to the sub? I'm confused.

Hi,
I appreciate your post. Yes I've been known to have a sarcastic sense of humor and yes I've been known to use stacks of subs when needed. Here's the problem, really low bass notes have very long wavelengths, that's why speakers can play for an area and subs really can't. The long wavelenths will go as far as possible, till a deadend is hit. In effect you need fill the open area with bass, we often call this pressurizing the room/rooms. This is why so many people find they hear far more bass is an adjoining room especially in a corner than they do in the sub's room. So when one is undersubbed as most are, you try for ultimate placement to provide the best possible bass at listening position. Most of the time this will be in a corner well away from any permanent room openings. Another possible solution is near-field where the subwoofer is located very close to listening position. I gave you the best protection hook-up now if possible try some placement options. BTW, the SPL-1200R is a real favorite of mine and I'm pleased you didn't get a smaller one.
Thanks again,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hey Curt,

can you share pics of your stacked subs? :)

Hi,
Line level is the 'rca' route, the other is speaker level. I recommend line level (rca) but you probably won't notice much if any difference. Try both ways and see what you think.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hey curt,
Thanks for the input! It really sounds nicer thru the rca's. Any were I can go to download a schematic?

Hi,
We do not have schematics for download. Check with Velodyne service/repair at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt

hey Curt,

can you share pics of your stacked subs? :)

Hi,
No photos available. Haven't done that in years.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I just bought a Velodyne DPS 10 and I am getting random hums...any ideas on what I should do? Sometimes the hum is loud enough to irritate , sometimes just low.

Hi,
First try a reset by pressing the presets left to right in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. If that doesn't help try disconnecting the input cable. If it still hums contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

When speaking of pressurizing the room, do air vents and small gaps around doors affect this? I have a central air register in my ceiling and about a 1/2" - 3/4" crack under my door. I can get weather stripping for the door but can't do anything about the air vent.

Hi,
We all have vents and small leaks, I'm concerned with large openings such as archways, doors etc.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt. I will try to post pics in the next day or two of the frequency response I was able to achieve using the SMS-1. It is essentially flat from ~18hz through 200hz. Some sections from 20hz - 50hz are a straight line. I am very happy with the results.

I think it is working correctly in that while listening to music most of the time I don't even know the subs are there. Movies, though, you can definitely feel.

Curt,
I just got my new velodyne SPL1200R today. I hooked it up and it sounds great. It was a big step up from my Outlaw 8' down firing ported LFM2. The outlaw was a great sub for $299, but the velodyne is definitely in another league. I can hear individual bass notes, before it was not like that. I have it set to jazz classical setting, and it sounds really good. The movie setting seems to have a little more kick, but I prefer the better defined bass of jazz classical setting. My question is: I have the volume set between 35 and 40 and it sounds good to me, with a good blend with my fronts, although the SPL meter seems to indicate I should turn it up some more. Should I just go by ear and leave it at that, or should I try to match the fronts as far as SPL with the meter. My receiver is set at 3/4 volume to the sub, or +5. Any help would be appreciated. Also I did utilize the AUTO EQ feaure. Also would 0 be the correct phase setting? My sub is sitting to the side of my left front speaker, parallel to it. My front speakers are only 40" apart, if that means anything.

Hi,
Always go with your ears. You're already fairly high on the sub's volume so I would use a 'Y' splitter into both sub input jacks, if you're not already. If you need any more volume raise the receiver's subwoofer channel a bit more. I would certainly trust my ears over the meter and after all you want it to sound right to you, not the meter. Glad it worked out.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

HI, new Velodyne CHT-12R (DSL-4000R in US) owner here.
Just got it 2 days back and still playing around with the setting.
The 12R sounded very good with movie but seem a little too loud for music even being set to Jazz/Classical setting.
I am not sure on the volume becos there's nothing for me to see how lous I've turn it up or down.
Am using a Yamaha RX-V861 and the LFE x-over set at 80hz and LFE level at 0db.
Is there any other setting that I must take into account to get the best performance for movie/music without adjusting the setting every time? My wife does not like to do the adjustment every time she changes the source :p

Hi,
The blinking light let's you know where the volume is. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are units. So three long and five short blinks is sub volume '35', which is also factory default. You can also do a reset to factory default by pressing the presets in the following order; 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. The programmed presets are there for convience. You may chose to just use classical/jazz and raise or lower the volume to taste. The Movie preset does add a little volume (see manual). I would experiment to see where you like the volume but keep in mind, different sources have different bass volume, that's why it's nice having the remote for quick, at listening position adjustments.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

thanks curt for fast reply.

another noob question, do I need to run in the sub?

if I do, what is the recommended hours to let it fully run in?

Hi,
There is no break-in period required for a subwoofer. Just experiment with placement and volume.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,
You forgot to answer my question about the phase setting in my last post about the SPLR1200. Post #4706. THANKS

Hi,
The correct answer is set it to the loudest position. You will rarely hear a difference so usually '0' is correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
I just purchased a DLS-5000R and am playing around with some of it's settings.
I love the remote!
But don't like the fact that there is no mini-lcd screen on the sub enclosure which shows the volume level since I always lose count when the lights start blinking too fast:)

So, are there any specs available which show what type of cone excursion the DLS-5000R can reach?

I ask because even in deep bass movie scenes, I noticed the cone hardly moves unlike my old M&K 12'' sealed sub.
Thanks!

Hi,
In a bass reflex design (DLS), the cone moves very little since both the front and rear wave are utilized for output. A sealed box or acoustic suspension design will move much more to make up the difference. Also a 15" woofer will need to move about half as much as a 12" woofer for the same output. As a rule I recommend playing the woofer volume in the default (35) range or lower if that provides adequate output. You can also raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver if more volume is needed. We do not list maximum excursion for our individual subs.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I had posted the following earlier in another thread & was advised to post it in this thread and was told that Curt would help. I would really appreciate his help. Thanks

I have a velodyne subwoofer HGS 10 which has all of a sudden started making noises (sounds like a low rumbling noise). This happens even when it is not connected to my Denon Receiver. Sometimes even when someone walks by, it seems to trigger this noise. I tried connecting it to other power sources & also replaced the power cable - but to no awail. What should be done at this time. COuld it be a grounding problem? Would appreciate any suggestions.

Hi,
Sounds like your amplifier will need repair. Please contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hi Curt,

Bought my SPL-12. I love it. It is reliable and performs beautifully every time i turn it on. It is tight, accurate and silky smooth. My question are:


1)My SPL-12 does not have a remote. I often have to physically turn the volume knob every time i change source or play a new CD. Can I send it in for an upgrade so it would take remote command. Or send in the amp for an upgrade to SPL-1200R. My SPL is physically brand new. I don't think the wife would approve the purchase of the 1200R or the awesome DD-12. If I'm lucky, she might approve me for the amp upgrade so my SPL-12's volume can be remote controlled.

2) Would i notice a huge improvement in sound if i were replace my Spl-12 for a DD-10 (A little lying to the wife for AV gear is acceptable in some country :-)? My room is 2300 cubic feet. Yes the 12 moves more air, but the new DD10 is suppose to be tighter, louder and more accurate. What are your thought? the DD12 is far out of my range.

Thanks for your time. You're a valuable source of information for the AVS community.

Tim.

Hi,
1) I'm sorry there is no way to convert your SPL to remote. It's not just the amp, it's also the enclosure with the receiving eye. I suggest you make small volume changes with the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel, assuming you have a A/V receiver with a remote control.
2) I would chose the SPL-12 over the DD-10 for your size room. It has more output for movies and sounds very close to the DD-12 in every way. If you want to go to the DD, I would go with the the DD-12, not the DD-10. Personally I use SPL-12s in a couple of my systems. They're really good!
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Is there such thing as too much subwoofer for a given room? I recently relocated my HT from a much larger 12x20' room in the basement that opened up to a hallway and stairwell, to a dedicated HT room in the back of the basement that's 12x12 square. My SPL-1200 Series II is giving me some real challenges to find it a new home in the new room, and still be in a place that's not under foot.

My problem is that during the louder action sequences in 5.1/7.1 LFE, I'm getting the desire to go over and turn the sub's gain down because of excessive boomyness. But, during less intense action, or different soundtracks, I find the volume is then too low.

I've calibrated the receiver (Pioneer VSX-94TXH, using MCACC) and everything looks to be in order, except the subwoofer distance calculation states 11 feet instead of 8 feet. No surprise, the 11 feet is probably due to the 8 actual feet + 3 feet behind the mic where the wall is. I hear this is normal, and was inferenced not to mess with it by setting the distance to 8 feet manually.

Any ideas? Keep moving it around the room to find a better spot, add some bass traps? I can't go about radical treatments like double-walling with air gaps to decouple the back wall, etc.

Greg

Hi,
It's likely the problem is your 12X12 room. Small square rooms are the hardest to deal with. I would continue to experiment with subwoofer placement. Perhaps opening the door part way might help. In your case you probably want to avoid corner placement. I have never had much luck with bass traps but you could certainly try. I recommend trying the Velodyne SMS-1 Bass Management system. Perhaps a dealer would let you try one. It's the most flexible unit I've used for dealing with room issues.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I may have fixed my issue, at least partially. I was previously running my Polk RTi10s as "Large" in the receiver configuration because their frequency response curve looked like they could handle it. I switched them to "Small" and moved the subwoofer around a few feet, and now am getting a smoother transition with less boom. I wonder if the Polks were contributing to some frequency addition/cancellation with the Velodyne.

I got your PM about the SMS-1, Curt. Thanks for that suggestion. I might see if the local shop where I bought my Velodyne and other hardware will loan me one. I suppose with the 8-bands of EQ dedicated to the bass frequencies, it can chop out the problematic frequencies in my square room that placement won't fix, eh?

Greg

Hi,
Good news. It's almost always best to have the subwoofer (or subwoofers) do the bass.
In your small room, I would say it's a requirement.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I went with a friend of mine last week who bought 2 HDTVs and wanted to upgrade his audio system, previously it was a 10 year old HTiB. The real restrictions he placed on me was he wanted to buy it all from Frys even after I explained he could save money buying on the internet.

Anyway, We picked out a Onkyo 606, Polk RTi8s and CSiA6 for Center and FXiA4s for the rear. I was pretty comfortable with the Polks given that is what I have but the the tough part for me was the sub since I have HSU.

His room is about 5K cf with tile floors and large opening in the rear.

Againest my better judgement he bought the Velodyne DLR4000 or something like that, it does have a remote.

All the way to his house I kept saying we need to buy an ID sib like HSU, Outlaw, AV123 or SVS.

AFter getting everything setup I realized how bright his room is wrt audio. Ran AUdessy on his receiver and then threw in Steally Dan 2AN CD.

WOW, I was pleasantly surprised how well the sub preasurized his room. The bass was pretty tight and not boomy.

Then we put in a DVD Demo disk and played my favorite LOtR where the king's on cuts off the fingers of the Black knight and then the sonic boom.

Again, WOW, I was surpised how well the sub perfromed.

Since he is not electronics inclined so I did not show him how to change the sub level on the receiver for music and movies. In his case the sub volumn sounded great at the same level for both music and movies.

Anyway, just wanted to say the 4000 looks like a great product and give deserved props.

Hi,
I agree the DLS series are great 'bang for the buck' products. The high efficient design make them a great choice for clients with larger rooms and a limited budget. Thanks for the positive feedback.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a Lexicon MC-12 which has its own bass management/room EQ
Then I add the DD-18 to the mix.

Although my dealer recommended adjusting the DD-18 EQ AFTER the MC-12, I tried it the other way around first, simply because by changing the EQ you will change the output level, so i thought I would get more accuracy this way around.

Here is the really strange thing. I got the DD-18 reasonably flat. Then I ran the MC-12 EQ, levels, distances routine, and it promptly ruined the flat Sub response even though the mics were in the same position!

The DD-18 response curve showed a dip around the crossover frequency no matter what I did with polarity or phase....although in one polarity position, it was just a small dip of 5Hz, whereas in the other it was like a huge meteor crater. I evened out the dip with the DD-18 EQ, but the MC-12 put it back in again!!

The MC-12 is widely regarded as having exceptional Room EQ, so why do the two units seem to be hearing such different things??


I will now try the set-up order the way the dealer suggested, but it does have me baffled.

Finally, I know my placement of the DD-18 appears to be non-optimal. I don't have a choice on position. Does it really hold true that the EQ can effectively cancel out that defficiency....or, does a moderately EQd sub, sound much poorer than one that needed little or no adjustment?

I have a Lexicon MC-12 which has its own bass management
Then I add the DD-18 to the mix.

Although my dealer recommended adjusting the DD-18 EQ AFTER the MC-12, I tried it the other way around first, simply because by changing the EQ you will change the output level, so i thought I would get more accuracy this way around.
....................................

Finally, I know my placement of the DD-18 appears to be non-optimal. I don't have a choice on position. Does it really hold true that the EQ can effectively cancel out that defficiency....or, does a moderately EQd sub, sound much poorer than one that needed little or no adjustment?

Sorry, I am not here to help. Rather to ask for advice.
I also own a DD-18 paired with an Anthem D2 + ARC.
Do you think you can kick an advice or two here?
My ARC measurements, with Velodyne's Eq defeat, looks bad (see attached picture).
Do you have any best practive to offer?

Thanks

Sorry, I am not here to help. Rather to ask for advice.
I also own a DD-18 paired with an Anthem D2 + ARC.
Do you think you can kick an advice or two here?
My ARC measurements, with Velodyne's Eq defeat, looks bad (see attached picture).
Do you have any best practive to offer?

Thanks

I too have the D2 + ARC and the DD18. I normally do the EQ with my sub first. Then I run the ARC. After running the ARC, my almost flat frequency response is no longer flat. However, with audio, you shouldn't let your eyes be the deciding factor. You have to let your ears be the deciding factor. After ARC runs, how does it sound to you? For me, the sound is tight and smooth and integrates very nicely with the rest of my system. So, even though the frequency response curve doesn't look that good, it's not bad, it sounds sweet. You may want to try a different sub location to see if you get a better response.

I have a Lexicon MC-12 which has its own bass management/room EQ
Then I add the DD-18 to the mix.

Although my dealer recommended adjusting the DD-18 EQ AFTER the MC-12, I tried it the other way around first, simply because by changing the EQ you will change the output level, so i thought I would get more accuracy this way around.

Here is the really strange thing. I got the DD-18 reasonably flat. Then I ran the MC-12 EQ, levels, distances routine, and it promptly ruined the flat Sub response even though the mics were in the same position!

The DD-18 response curve showed a dip around the crossover frequency no matter what I did with polarity or phase....although in one polarity position, it was just a small dip of 5Hz, whereas in the other it was like a huge meteor crater. I evened out the dip with the DD-18 EQ, but the MC-12 put it back in again!!

The MC-12 is widely regarded as having exceptional Room EQ, so why do the two units seem to be hearing such different things??


I will now try the set-up order the way the dealer suggested, but it does have me baffled.

Finally, I know my placement of the DD-18 appears to be non-optimal. I don't have a choice on position. Does it really hold true that the EQ can effectively cancel out that defficiency....or, does a moderately EQd sub, sound much poorer than one that needed little or no adjustment?

How does it sound? If it sounds good, then don't worry about the frequency response. For audio, it's all about what you hear not what you see.

How does it sound? If it sounds good, then don't worry about the frequency response. For audio, it's all about what you hear not what you see.

Right now, it doesn't sound right to me. For most music, I can switch the sub on and off and can hardly detect the difference (very different to my previous Rel Stentor II). For movies, the explosions are almost too much.

From what I can see on the final graph, there is a big dip between 30-40Hz which were music extension typically is, so this explains my findings.

For some reason, it appears the MC-12 doesn't calibrate the DD-18 as well as it did the Stentor.

I am going to try another re-cal, but this time doing the DD-18 afterwards and then using an SPL meter to correct for any final changes in output volume.

Jonathan

I too have the D2 + ARC and the DD18. I normally do the EQ with my sub first. Then I run the ARC. After running the ARC, my almost flat frequency response is no longer flat. However, with audio, .......
You may want to try a different sub location to see if you get a better response.

I agree with the method. This is what I am gonna do in the same exact sequence.
I mean, how can Anthem advise to try both method, calibrate first then D2 Eq, and afterwards the opposite?
The DD-18 calibrates itself with its own tone generator, completely on his own. Then, and only then, you can run the ARC and have it do its corrections, if any...
Right?
And about the sub location, Anthem told the exact same thing. But I have a very narrow margin of action. It sits in a corner with a concrete wall behind it and a brick wall (20 cm) on its left. What do you suggest? I only can put it farther from the back wall.

Hi,
Generally I would recommend using the pre/pros eg first and the DD last. To my knowledge none of the pre/pros have near the eq capability below 110hz that the DD has. I would try both methods and go with the one that looks and sounds best. Usually, as stated in the manual, you need the raise the volume of the DD after eq'ing to make it sound correctly. As to volume of the DD always use your ears as the final check. To a large degree the DD can compensate for placement, but the placement with the best response to start with is preferred when possible. Do experiment with placement to the degree that you can. When doing the DD eq try to eliminate the peaks as much as possible as they will have the most audible effect.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
I would try both methods and go with the one that looks and sounds best. Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I agree. However, I would say it a little differently. I would say: I would try both methods and go with the one that sounds the best.:D I know. I am picky.

Ears always rule. I totally agree. Go with what sounds best and almost always the volume of the DD needs to be increased (in my case by 5) to sound correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Ears always rule. I totally agree. Go with what sounds best and almost always the volume of the DD needs to be increased (in my case by 5) to sound correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello Curt,

I always tend to keep a low profile when it comes to listen to advises from specialists, and indeed you are.
But what do I do when 2 specialists give contradicting advises?
What I mean is that Anthem specifically say that you shall not change the volume (balance) of any channel whatsoever after the ARC has been ran.
Why do you keep on advising to add a few Dbs to the sub?

Thanks

Hi,
Because many of the automated systems are chocking the sub. You could overcome this by setting the sub level lower before running their auto systems. One company instructs you to set the sub level to 50%, another to 100%. We do not ever recommend those settings and they will not work for a Velodyne. This is new territory and no standards at the moment. Different amps have different input sensitivity, etc. Unfortunately right now it appears every company has their own standard. We are looking at all of this and as always I suggest a call to me for hook-up recommendations of your Velodyne if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Because many of the automated systems are chocking the sub. ......
...
We are looking at all of this and as always I suggest a call to me for hook-up recommendations of your Velodyne if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am afraid you are not aware of how the ARC proceeds when measuring (and if you are I apologize for what follows).
Unlike my previous processor (TagMcLaren AVr32-R Dual + TmReq Eq) the D2 + ARC proceed very differently.
Here is a typical course of action:
- 1st you set the distance for speakers in the D2
- 2nd (after setting all speaker levels to 0) you set the noise level of the test tone to 75dB (coming through the left front speaker)
- 3rd you set the volume of the DD-18 through the Velodyne's remote to reach 75dB
-4th you run the ARC and it takes control of the volume of the speakers! (the only thing retained is the distances)
- 5th, after you run the ARC all the speaker volumes and crossover frequencies are changed

So, what do you think now?

Every system is different and I may not have needed to advise an increase with your system. Where did the DD volume end up? And if every speaker including the DD is set to 75db, then the bass will sound weak to almost everyone. When I was doing demos a few years ago, all speakers were set to 75db and sub to somewhere between 80-85db to sound correctly. If your automated system allows the volume on the DD to have enough upward movement to get proper sound and be in a safe operating zone, then thats fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Every system is different and I may not have needed to advise an increase with your system. Where did the DD volume end up? And if every speaker including the DD is set to 75db, then the bass will sound weak to almost everyone. When I was doing demos a few years ago, all speakers were set to 75db and sub to somewhere between 80-85db to sound correctly. If your automated system allows the volume on the DD to have enough upward movement to get proper sound and be in a safe operating zone, then thats fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have the feeling I misled you.
Setting the 75dB volume is only good for the initial setup of the D2.
Then the ARC sets the amount of dB's to be added/retrieved for each channel according to what it senses.
Then you are free to crank your "global" volume to its limits.
The dB's added/substracted by the ARC to the sub will always be in effect, but on the actual listening volume.
Is it clearer?:o

Maybe. You never did say what range you run the DD's volume in and I thought you were commenting about not being able to hear the DD after all was done. Maybe it was someone else. As long as the pre/pro sends enough voltage to the DD to operate correctly in it's range, no problem. I answered the question as to why I have many users raise the volume for the subwoofer channel.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

This is actually an interesting topic because it touches on the different "ideals" and "concepts" behind different vendors.

The Lexicon MC-12 room EQ actually focusses only on the low end frequencies. Their belief, is that resonances and room modes at the bass end, actually interfere with our perception of clarity and definition of higher frequencies. This I have found to be true, by testing with Room EQ switched on and off.

So the MC-12 is actually focussing on the same frequency area as the DD-18.

However, whereas the DD-18 with its microphones clearly heads towards what appears to be a flatter response on its graph plot, the MC-12 with its microphones does not.

So I then ran my own 20-120Hz with only the MC-12 having done the correction....vs the DD-18 manual correction to achieve near flat. Strangely the MC-12 one "sounded" more flat to my ears than the DD-18 correction despite, the graph clearly being straighter. How weird is that?!

Just to add, I am putting the micrphones for both MC-12 and DD-18 on the top of the sofa back near to where my head would go. MC-12 mics point upwards....DD-18 mic points almost vertically upwards.

On a separate point regarding boosting the sub volume after calibration:-

The MC-12 does calibrate the sub level to 75dB.

However, they also recommend the use of their loudness option. This is not a cheap gimmicky loudness, but a bass countour that changes as you increase the volume, to cope with the fact that low-end hearing drops off at quieter volumes.

This should negate the need to boost the sub directly.

Every system is different and I may not have needed to advise an increase with your system. Where did the DD volume end up? And if every speaker including the DD is set to 75db, then the bass will sound weak to almost everyone. When I was doing demos a few years ago, all speakers were set to 75db and sub to somewhere between 80-85db to sound correctly. If your automated system allows the volume on the DD to have enough upward movement to get proper sound and be in a safe operating zone, then thats fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430


Normally, what I do, and it's just me is I calibrate my DD-18 on preset 2 at 75db. I leave it set on preset 2 when I run ARC. After the ARC is done and everything is uploaded to my D2, I set my sub back to preset 1 which is my default. Preset 1 is 5 db higher then preset 2. I must say that it really sounds sweet and full.

JonStatt
It may work okay. The demos I was involved in were Velodyne/B&W/Lexicon and we raised the bass 5-10db to get proper balance. All of this is room (and user) dependent. Speaking of 'loudness' contour, McIntosh still uses them and so do I at lower levels. Features and tools are there to use as they suit and benefit the user.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Can anyone tell me if there are any major differences amongst different generations of velodyne servo subs, e.g.
F-1200/1500 -> FSR-10/12/15 -> HGS-10/12/15 -> 10X/12X/15X -> DD-10/12/15

Are there improvements in driver design, amps, servo/accelerometer, that warrant purchasing a new unit $$$ versus older unit. I'm considering an F-1500 or 12" in FSR/HGS depending on availability. Considering the price difference on older subs, I'd be willing to give one a try. Are there any parts that are likely to fail?

Thanks!

There are Major differences. I would avoid the F-series, in the 10", 12" and 15" category. There are no driver parts available and limited amplifier service. All HGS subs have newer technology and are able to cope with H/T demands. We have many new options at reasonable prices which I would be happy to talk to you about, or go to; www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then 'sizing wizard' for help in selecting the proper size subwoofer which is the key element.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

There are Major differences. I would avoid the F-series, in the 10", 12" and 15" category. There are no driver parts available and limited amplifier service. All HGS subs have newer technology and are able to cope with H/T demands. We have many new options at reasonable prices which I would be happy to talk to you about, or go to; www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then 'sizing wizard' for help in selecting the proper size subwoofer which is the key element.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks,

Perhaps I will look at the HGS series then. Room size hasn't been determined yet (house shopping) but the subs will be paired with Magnepans.

I use my SMS-1 to achieve an almost ruler flat response, then I run Audessey. The frequency response is usally quite bad at this point, and then I reequalize the subs with the SMS-1.

I'm running a two channel setup and I leave preset 4 for that. I use preset 1 for HT.

Seems like a reasonable approach to me. In the end it's what works. At least with the DD and SMS you can see the results.
Curt (928)858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

JonStatt
It may work okay. The demos I was involved in were Velodyne/B&W/Lexicon and we raised the bass 5-10db to get proper balance. All of this is room (and user) dependent. Speaking of 'loudness' contour, McIntosh still uses them and so do I at lower levels. Features and tools are there to use as they suit and benefit the user.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

One thing that just hit me is that the measurement for Velo is only done from one listening position. The measurement for my processor is taken from multiple listening positions which to me is better because I prefer an overall good response versuses a very good response from just one listening location.

Problem is, that's very difficult to pull off with much success. And of course that will be room dependent. You can walk around with a test tone playing and check the results. BTW, we have a 5-mic kit available for the DD and SMS and you can place the mics in a circular array or wherever you wish.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com