Hi,
I don't know the pin configeration. I'll try to get an answer or maybe one of you computer guys can answer. BTW, your Lexicon has volume adjustment for the sub channel.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, can I place the sub close (about 3 inches) to my 2 channel amp and plasma tv without the risk of magnetic interference?? I have a CT-150 model.

Thanks

I'll try that, though I don't have a receiver, it's a Lexicon MC-8 processor and I already am feeding both sub input jacks.

If that doesn't work, is the assumption on the pinout of the RS-232 out jack for the trigger input correct?

Hi,
Your pin sketch is correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

PM received! Thanks Curt!!!

Do you have to use a Velodyne IR extender with the DD-12, or are there other, possibly less expensive, options? How much do the Velodyne extenders cost?

Hi,
For the DD series, the Velodyne IR extender must be used. For price or purchase please contact Velodyne parts at (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Does anyone know the number of electrical amps that's really need for a DD 18? Is a 15A circuit sufficient? Also, is a dedicated electrical circuit really required. I know it's better to have a dedicated line; but, is it really necessary?

Hi,
The maximum draw for a DD subwoofer is 10-12 amps so a 15 amp circuit is required. It does not have to be dedicated as long as sufficent current is available.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne

Does the DD 18 has circuitry to protect itself against electrical surges if it's plugged directly into the electrical outlet on the wall? Also, is the performance of the DD 18 better when it's connected directly to the electrical outlet vs plugging it into a surge protector/suppressor?

Hi,
The DD does not have built in surge protection. If the surge protector does not limit available power, performance will be the same, so there is no down side to using a surge protector.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Well, what can I say...the SPL-1200R is outstanding to say the least!! Now, after reading all the positive results of running dual subs, I just had to go & order another one. Any suggestions for placement?

At present the one SPL is on the right side of my entertainment center & behind my monitor. I'm assuming that the same location on the opposite side will be optimal. I've also read about stacking them or placing them side by side. What's your take on those placement options?

PS - Thanks Curt for steering me in the right direction after many conversations.

Hi,
For cosmetic balance I would go with the opposite side. Stacking or side by side will work very well also. So you might want to try both methods and see what you think.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

After about 11 months of smooth operation, my DLS-5000R popped the breaker in my service panel during the night while in "standby mode".

On resetting the breaker, the sub appeared to wake up but popped and farted a few times. The room has filled with smoke.

I bought it through Future Shop in Canada.

Do I take it back to them, deal directly with you or do you have an authorized service centre in Winnipeg?

Do I have to lug the entire unit in or remove and take only the amplifier?

Hi,
On Monday please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848, or service@velodyne.com. They can direct you where to have the amp repaired.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All,
Could anyone clarify me the following issue?
I'm owner of SPL-1200R. I do the full switching off electricity when I leave my home for a long time.
So, should I reiterate an EQ microphone calibration time and again when I leave my home for few weeks and then return ? :confused:
Will have been saved my previous microphone calibration results without electric power or not?
Thank you in advance.
Anatoly

Hi,
The auto-eq is saved so no need to redo it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank you, Curt!
Could you kindly clarify one more detail?
When I do known operation (press key 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1) so as to reset SPL-R,
will have been Auto-EQ saved or not?

Hi,
The reset (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1) will erase the auto-eq and return everything to factory default.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank again Curt, and new my question.
I have dropped a SPL-R's microphone on a floor (height is about 4 feets).
Then I connected the mic into SPL-1200R and I have done auto EQ.
It seems all is OK (I got 12 sweep tones etc), but I'm afraid that my mic could be damaged and auto EQ wasn't correct.
So my question - how can I make sure that my mic is OK?
Thank you in advance.
Anatoly

Hi,
Since the auto-eq worked correctly, it appears it's working fine. There is no way to verify for sure. If you wish to order a new mic, contact your Velodyne dealer.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Many thanks, Curt!

Curt are there any images of the Impact series subs without the grill on and rear amp photos ? Which of the previous lines do these compare to ?

Hi,
Sorry there are no photos of the Impacts without grill or of the rear plate amp. If you look at the manual on the website, you can see the amplifier layout. The Impact-10 and Impact-12 replace the VRP-10 and VRP-12 and there is a new small Impact-Mini with a 6 1/2" aluminum front firing woofer and down firing 8" aluminum passive radiator for those who need a small loud playing subwoofer at an economy price. It will be a great addition for the sound projector/sound bar all in one speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a Velodyne VA-1250X that has started making noise non-stop, even if the sound input cable is disconnected. The only way to stop the noise is by turnign it off. The noice is similar to a loud white noise with an occasional loud click.

Any thought on what that might be and if it can be fixed. I am fairly mechanically inclined so if i knew what part to replace i am sure i could do it myself.

If you need addtional data to diagnose let me know and I will get it for you.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Chris

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848, or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hey Curt,
I have a Velodyne HGS-15BG and when it is powered on with no signal plugged in it makes a weird creeking/scratching noise, I'm quite sure what it might be (voice coil,driver,amp,ect..) not sure if this was a problem you heard of before on that model. If I need I can contact Velodyne directly to try and describe (reproduce) the problem better.

-Joe

Joe,
It will most likely be an amplifier issue.
Please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

I have some enquiry on the SPL EQ, the following is my instruction for tune my subwoofer.

1. set the distance
2. use sound meter tune the level to 75db
3. and then set the mic to the sitting position, press the remote EQ button.

After the Auto EQ finish, i try to use the sound meter test again, why the db will drop to 68db.

Is the Auto EQ will try to find the best volume for any enviroment?

Thanks a lot,
marcobb

Hi,
I suggest you do the following.
If you have a SPL-R subwoofer, then EQ the subwoofer first by pressing the EQ button on the subwoofer remote.
Then follow your receivers instructions for set-up. After that if the subwoofer level is too low, raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver until the subwoofer is loud enough.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey Curt,
I have a Velodyne HGS-15BG and when it is powered on with no signal plugged in it makes a weird creeking/scratching noise, I'm quite sure what it might be (voice coil,driver,amp,ect..) not sure if this was a problem you heard of before on that model. If I need I can contact Velodyne directly to try and describe (reproduce) the problem better.

For the record, today my HGS-18 (1999 model) started a continuous random popping when powered on. No other sound would come from it, and it just suddenly started doing this after unpausing a movie. I disconnected it from the preamp, and it still did it. I fear it's a faulty amplifier, and don't look forward to repair and shipping costs. Anyway, it's been a fantastic subwoofer until now, so I can't complain about getting this many good years out of a bone crusher like it. I'll call Velodyne support tommorrow.

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Pete Lewis at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Since only the amps will need to be returned packing and shipping won't be too bad.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Pete Lewis at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Since only the amps will need to be returned packing and shipping won't be too bad.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.comThanks, Curt. I'll do just that. I'm hoping the amplifier removal isn't too technical. I wouldn't want to make matters worse than they already are.:o

This is just a curiosity.

I was running some sine sweep tests from 16Hz upwards.

During this I noticed if my ear was in-line or fairly close to my DD-18, I could hear an "extra" noise when the servo was at maximum (for example the classical setting). This noise disappears completely using preset 1 (action/adventure)....and to varying degrees with settings in the middle.

The "extra" noise...sounds a bit like a "ssshhhh" superimposed on the actual bass.

From the normal listening position everything sounds perfect.

I was just curious if this was a normal expected side effect of the servo mechanism.

Hi,
I don't know what the extra noise would be and if it's servo related. I'll pass it on to engineering and let you know if I get an answer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,
How much better is the Velodyne SMS-1 sub equalizer than the six band Auto EQ that is built in the SPLR series. Is the auto EQ in the SPLR series near as good as one done manually with an SMS-1. In other words, if you have an SPLR series, would it be worth it to invest in an SMS-1. THANKS

Hi,
The auto-eq in the SPL-R and Optimum series is about the same as the 'self-eq' in the SMS-1. In addition, the SMS-1 offers 'auto and manual eq' where you become active in the process and see the response curve on your TV monitor and also see the changes you make in real time. You can save up to five different equalizations (one per preset) if needed. You can also move the eq bars up and down the frequency scale and change the 'Q' (bandwidth effected) in the parametric mode. The SMS-1 also offers very flexible crossovers, slopes, subsonic filters, and different customized presets. With the SMS you have a RTA, signal sweep and high quality mic all in one package. So as to your question of 'worth', it would depend on whether your room would benefit from additional equalization and how involved you would be with the set up. Changing location of the subwoofer can often make a big difference in bass frequency response. My advice is download the SMS-1 owners manual and see what you think.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a DPS-12 in which the buttons on the control panel are not functioning correctly anymore. It is stuck in Rock mode and I can not adjust the volume or night mode. I bought the sub used and looks as if someone has peeled the control panel off before and screwed up the buttons. Some do not pop out anymore. I sent an email to service@velodyne.com and have not received a response. Can I purchase a replacement control panel?

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello Curt C,

I would like to know how the Optimum 12 compare to the SPL 1200R and DD 12. All of these have auto EQ. I am aware the one in DD12 is more advanced in a way it gives you a graphical images on screen. I remeber reading somewhere the SPL 1200 has more output than the DD12.


Comparison
25Hz: DD12 ---??, SPL1200 ---98db
20Hz: DD12 --- 78db, SPL1200 ---90db
16Hz: DD12 --- Incapable, SPL1200 ---73db

I am inclined to purchase an Optimum 12 for price/performance ratio. But the problem is I haven't seen them compared in this respect. Could you please give me some insider iformation

Michaelmorio

Hi,
I'm sorry, I do not have those comparisons. The new Optimum will play about 2-3db louder than the SPL-R it replaced. The DD-12 will play deeper (lower frequency) and have lower distortion with the servo technology. The DD also has manual eq, in addition to auto and self eq. The optimum has auto eq. Sonically IMO, they are very close. I agree the new Optimum series are price/performance winners. As always , make sure you select the proper size subwoofer. For proper size go to: www.velodyne.com, then 'which product', then 'sizing wizard' and calculate total cubic displacement including all rooms that have permanent openings into the main listening room. If you need more, please call me next week.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello Curt C,

I would like to know how the Optimum 12 compare to the SPL 1200R and DD 12. All of these have auto EQ. I am aware the one in DD12 is more advanced in a way it gives you a graphical images on screen. I remeber reading somewhere the SPL 1200 has more output than the DD12.


Comparison
25Hz: DD12 ---??, SPL1200 ---98db
20Hz: DD12 --- 78db, SPL1200 ---90db
16Hz: DD12 --- Incapable, SPL1200 ---73db

I am inclined to purchase an Optimum 12 for price/performance ratio. But the problem is I haven't seen them compared in this respect. Could you please give me some insider iformation

MichaelmorioHave a look at these test results between the DD15 (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=14733&start=0&rid=14&SQ=1126361620) and SPL1500 (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=22064&start=0&rid=14&SQ=1178450584) (They haven't tested the SPL1200 so couldn't compare them) You will notice the SPL1500 has a marginal increase in max output(about 3db below 25Hz) but the Total Harmonic Distortion is through the roof to achieve this.

As an example
20Hz
DD15 - 92db 6%THD
SPL1500 - 94db 30+%THD (ie off the chart and probably over 50%THD)

If you compare the SPL1500 THD at the same output of the DD15, this is what you get:

20Hz
DD15 - 92db 6%THD
SPL1500 - 92db 27%THD

cheers

Hi,
I'm sorry, I do not have those comparisons. The new Optimum will play about 2-3db louder than the SPL-R it replaced. The DD-12 will play deeper (lower frequency) and have lower distortion with the servo technology. The DD also has manual eq, in addition to auto and self eq. The optimum has auto eq. Sonically IMO, they are very close. I agree the new Optimum series are price/performance winners. As always , make sure you select the proper size subwoofer. For proper size go to: www.velodyne.com, then 'which product', then 'sizing wizard' and calculate total cubic displacement including all rooms that have permanent openings into the main listening room. If you need more, please call me next week.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430


Hello Curt,

Wow, I am impressed! You are replying to inquiries Friday evening after hours! The post you replied to was my first post in this thread. I wonder how much Velodyne is paying you for this!!!

I will call you on Monday. But quick questions.
1. The Optimum series have a 7-band auto EQ vs. 6-band for the SPL series. Did you just ad one extra setting to the 6-band EQ on the SPLs? Or does the new 7-band EQ have more advanced performance?
2. The Optimun 12 has more dimention inches in total vs. the SPL 1200. But it weighs several pounds less. How did you do that? I kind of think the heavier the better for the subs.
3. Do they, the Optimum 112 and the SPL 1200 use the same driver unit?

Thank you.

Michaelmorio

Have a look at these test results between the DD15 (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=14733&start=0&rid=14&SQ=1126361620) and SPL1500 (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=22064&start=0&rid=14&SQ=1178450584) (They haven't tested the SPL1200 so couldn't compare them) You will notice the SPL1500 has a marginal increase in max output(about 3db below 25Hz) but the Total Harmonic Distortion is through the roof to achieve this.

As an example
20Hz
DD15 - 92db 6%THD
SPL1500 - 94db 30+%THD (ie off the chart and probably over 50%THD)

If you compare the SPL1500 THD at the same output of the DD15, this is what you get:

20Hz
DD15 - 92db 6%THD
SPL1500 - 92db 27%THD

cheers



Hello MACCA350

Thank you for the info. By the way can you tell me what the source of your info is?

With all best wishes,
Michaelmorio

Hello MACCA350

Thank you for the info. By the way can you tell me what the source of your info is?

With all best wishes,
MichaelmorioClick on the links in my post to go directly to the test results. Source is the AV Talk forum, here the Subwoofer Tests section. (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=thread&frm_id=50&rid=6520&SQ=1227327933) I've been a member there for a few years and they are probably the most comprehensive and comparable test procedures I've seen. Have a read through their procedure explanation thread (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=13417&start=0&rid=6520&SQ=1227328318) if you'd like more info on how they are done.

cheers

REPOST FROM MAIN SW AREA:

Recently I "upgraded" my HK AVR 635 for a Denon-1909. After the initial Audessey setup my 3-year old sub (Velodyne SPL-1000 II) played fine, yet, I wasn't totally satisfied. As I never fully understood the settings of the sub I started playing with the settings. While I am not totally sure if it is directly related to my playing, but likely so, currently my sub makes a vibrating rattling sound. Clearly, the $$$ sub is broken. What could have caused this?

I left Velodyne a message over the weekend but perhaps you have some advice what to do or how to get it repaired. Clearly I'm pretty sad and greatly regret having replaced my receiver... :(

Hi,
It seems quite often the auto set ups (in receivers) and Audessey do not provide adequate input signal for the subwoofer. In the future keep the sub volume below half way and manually raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver. I would also use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs of the sub.
To have your unit repaired, contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks. Just left a message.

Hi,

I am from India and have a SPL1200R which was bought about 4 months ago.

I have a problem in which the Cabinet rattles on the Top Right - When looking from the Front of the Sub.

All screws on the Amp and Hex screws behind are tight.

It goes away if i put my hand on the surface, no need to press firmly , just keeping my hand on it will do.
I feel that the black gloss layer has seprated from the cabinet causing the rattle.

Please suggest what to do.:confused:

Hi,
If you purchased the sub locally, return it to your Velodyne dealer. Otherwise, please contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for your fast reply , i have contacted your service email.

I did get it locally from the Velodyne Distributor.

just got an optimum 12
have elite vsx84txi
having no luck pushing sound out of sub
any ideas?
thx

Hi,
Have you programmed your receiver correctly? You need to call your speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer in receivers speaker set-up menu. You can also check the subwoffer by running the analog audio output (rca jacks) of your CD/DVD player directly into the sub's rca input jacks and then play a CD and see if the sub responds. Turn the sub off while making these connections. If none of this works return the Optimum to your dealer for verification and exchange. I will be available for phone calls until noon (MST) today so feel free to call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All,
FYI, Velodyne Acoustics (me too) will close this afternoon for the holidays and reopen on Monday. I will be traveling and back on Monday morning.
We at Velodyne wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi All,
FYI, Velodyne Acoustics (me too) will close this afternoon for the holidays and reopen on Monday. I will be traveling and back on Monday morning.
We at Velodyne wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com...and after I sent them my sub's amp to be repaired this week.:p Happy Thanksgiving to you, as well.

Hello Curt

Thanks for the pm. I tried to reply to it but I received a message stating your pm has exceeded its capacity and I am not able to leave a pm to you.
I have some questions.
I read somewhere that SPL xxxR series is equipped with an amplifier that controls the driver unit by monitoring the impedance of the coil. Am I right? If so, isn't it the same as the SERVO amplifier?
The Optimum 12 comes with a 1200 watt amp. I think it's 200 watts more than the SPL 1200R. Is there any difference between the 2 amps besides the power rating?
Thank you.

I was just wondering if any of you connect your sub to a surge protector or line conditioner or do you connect it directly to the wall outlet?

Forgive me for my excitement... :D

I am the proud owner of a new SPL-1000R sub. It is the first sub that I have ever owned. I come from a strong two-channel backround and I still love listening to stereo. However, my home theater was never really complete because I did not own the ".1" for the surround system.

With a Krell amp, I really don't long for or feel the need to have more bass. ;) Knowhatimean?! LOL. Anyway, I have been into Blu-Ray for about a year and it just didn't feel right not to have a sub when watching some of my movies. So, I got the sub this week and hooked it up yesterday.

Don't worry, everything is fine with the sub. I am just excited that I now have that "impact" to the movies that I was missing after all this time. Somehow, I had convinced myself that I didn't really need a sub. However, since I lurk at AVS a lot, I started reading posts about subs. My thoughts started to change after the movie Iron Man and The Incredible Hulk came out on Blu-ray. Although I own the movies, I had refused to watch them until I bought a sub.

After setting up the sub using the Jurassic Park DVD, I popped in the Hulk Blu-ray disc. OMG!! - :eek::D The immediate impact and punch was there! I felt like kicking myself for waiting this long. LOL.

Forgive me, my fellow Velodyne brothers and sisters. Now I know.... DAMN! :D

Oh no! I now want to buy another one. Not for more bass, but just because it will look good for symetrical reasons... LOL! :D:cool::D

Peace!

I was just wondering if any of you connect your sub to a surge protector or line conditioner or do you connect it directly to the wall outlet?

I have a DLS-5000R that I plug into a "high current" input on a surge protector, and I've never had a problem with that setup. Curt posted a related answer about this a few pages back, and mentioned that even a DD18 (or it may have been a 15) doesn't draw more than 15 amps and doesn't need a dedicated circuit. Just make sure the surge protector/conditioner doesn't limit the current to the sub.

I have a Velodyne SPL-800R and a Denon 4306. Just recently, within the last 3 or 4 days, I have noticed a distinct chirping sound coming out of the sub. It's like a high pitched, squeaking sound apparently coming out of the speaker. I haven't changed anything around it, so I don't think its new interference from a new device. What should I do to troubleshoot it? Its annoying as all hell and I want to get rid of it, but am fully lost. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a DLS-5000R that I plug into a "high current" input on a surge protector, and I've never had a problem with that setup. Curt posted a related answer about this a few pages back, and mentioned that even a DD18 (or it may have been a 15) doesn't draw more than 15 amps and doesn't need a dedicated circuit. Just make sure the surge protector/conditioner doesn't limit the current to the sub.

My sub is too far away to plug into my surge protector. Currently, I have it connected directly into the wall outlet. However, since the DD18 does not have any internal circuitry to protect itself against spikes, I was thinking about getting the Monster Power Center SW 200 to plug into the wall outlet and then plug my sub into the SW 200.

I am the original owner of a Velodyne SA-7 (manufacture date September 1988!!) which just now has developed a rotting rubber surround. I have not contacted Velodyne yet (what with Thanksgiving and all) but it seems highly unlikely that they will have a repair solution for this 20 year old product. Now is not the time for my family to shell out the money for a new subwoofer, I would just like to get it repaired if possible. The electronics work fine. Would it be possible to replace the woofer? Seems to me I remember it had an accelerometer circuit attached to it - would the unit work with that not connected? Does anyone know of a company who could replace the surround or provide a kit? By the way, I am delighted to have gotten 20 years of satisfaction out of this unit and would not hesitate to buy another Velodyne product if I weren't personally bankrolling santa's contributions to my 7 and 10 year old!

DBPAudio -- You will never know unless you contact Velodyne. Curt will be back tomorrow, so he'll probaly say the same thing. Go back to one of his latter posts, he's included a phone number for you to call. The speaker needs to be re-coned (replace the surround). They may recommend a local shop that can do it for you, depending on what part of the country you're located in.

Quote: Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.

jsbradbury -- Same response - Curt will be back tomorrow, and should give you some suggestions. They were off work for the latter part of Thanksgiving week.

Thanks for the info - I have emailed them

Hi,
Don't hear from SA-7 owners much anymore. I will PM you a little later with some options. Or better yet call me if you can.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

My sub is too far away to plug into my surge protector. Currently, I have it connected directly into the wall outlet. However, since the DD18 does not have any internal circuitry to protect itself against spikes, I was thinking about getting the Monster Power Center SW 200 to plug into the wall outlet and then plug my sub into the SW 200.

Ninja12,

I have my two Velodynes plugged into two seperate Monster SW200 surge protectors and they work great. They seem to not restrict the flow of electricity at all to the amps of the velos and I have tested them well the last couple of weeks with Ironman and The Incredible Hulk on Bluray.

Anyone have the info on the new impact series. Planning to purchase Impact12($399) for a 3000 Cu. ft room.

Message:





Hi,
Not sure what you need. The specs and info are on the website. The Impact 12 would be marginal for a 3K room. If there are permanent openings into other rooms, then it is definitely too small. I would recommend considering the DLS-5000R or the new DEQ-15R.
The DLS-4000R or DEQ-12R would also do well if the room has no permanent openings. Please feel free to give me a call if you need more info or help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

My DD-18's remote control isn't working too well.

The sub produces proper audio but the remote fails to work after about a minute of sub powering on. Sub must then be fully power cycled before IR receiver will respond to remote and then the remote stops working again after about a minute. Batteries changed in remote many times and with different brands/batches to ensure this is not the issue. Same result.

Rear volume buttons on sub operate normally.

Is this a common problem with the DD series and does it tend to indicate the IR receiver on the sub is going haywire? Anyone had a similar problem?

Hi,
I have never heard of this problem before. I would turn the DD totally off, then back on and do a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote). If this fails to solve the problem, on Monday contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am planning to buy a sub and caught between velodyne impact12 and Klipsch sub12. Both are in the same price range but the klipsch specs look much better than the impact 12.

http://www.klipsch.com/products/details/synergy-sub-12.aspx

http://www.velodyne.com/products/specs/ImpactSpecs.html


which one should I go for?

Hi,
While price and specs are certainly two important purchase considerations, I'm very concerned that you select the proper subwoofer for your system. I suggest you go to www.velodyne.com and then 'which product' and finally 'selection wizard' to make sure you're considering the proper subwoofers. There are many reasons Velodyne is number one in subwoofers and IMO its primarily because Velodyne consistently offers the most performance for the price. Ideally you should try subwoofers in your home before making a decision but I realize in todays market place that's very difficult or impossible to do. If you need additional help in selecting the proper subwoofer, please call me on Monday and I'll be happy to help you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the reply Curt.

Looking at wattage impact12 seems to be similar to DLS3500R. But the DLS series seems to have more features than impact series. So would I benefit by considering a DLS3500R or should I prefer Impact12 since it has a 12" driver?

Hi,
Did you go to the website as I suggested? What's you're total cubic displacement?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I posted a couple of weeks ago about the amp in my HGS-18 going out (I thought), and Curt told me to call a gentlemen at Velo named Pete Lewis. I called, was told how to disconnect the amp, sent it to them, and got the new amp back a couple of days ago. Works like a charm. The experience was painless (except being without a sub) and the turn around was fast. Big thanks to Curt, Pete, and Velodyne for making it happen so quick and easy.

I have a Velodyne F-1500b Sub that powers up light goes on but no sound comes from it

Any ideas on what could be the problem ?

Hi,
I would try running another source such as a CD player directly into the sub's input jacks to make sure it's not your receiver. The receiver must be programmed correctly for the subwoofer to work. If that doesn't work, the sub's amplifier probably needs repair. Tomorrow please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext 2848 or service@velodyne.com
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for your reply Curt

I don't think its the receiver I have another sub hooked up and that one works just fine .The F-1500 worked fine for yrs. and then one day just stopped working.
When you say the receiver must be programmed correctly for it to work how do i need to set it up ?


Thanks again

Hi,
The receiver often has to be set up to call speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer. If another sub works with the receiver, that indicates the F-1500 needs repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I guess it does need repair.

How does velodyne handle repairs the F-1500 would be a monster to try and ship

I'm in the 33322 zip they have local service in my area ?

Call Velodyne service tomorrow. They will instruct you on how to remove the amplier. You will just send in the amplifier.
Curt (928) 858-4430

ok Thanks

Hi,
Did you go to the website as I suggested? What's you're total cubic displacement?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


Yes I did used the wizard and It recommended DD, DLS , SC series and a VRP1200 for 2800 Cu ft. room.

Based on your previous messages, for best performance I would recommend the following in decending (price and performance) order.
1) DLS-5000R
2) DLS-4000R
3) Impact 12.
I still suggest you call me tomorrow if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt

How much could I expect to pay on a amp service like this ?




Call Velodyne service tomorrow. They will instruct you on how to remove the amplier. You will just send in the amplifier.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Sorry, I'm not in that department and don't have prices. You can get the answer tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I have never heard of this problem before. I would turn the DD totally off, then back on and do a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote). If this fails to solve the problem, on Monday contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
Curt,

Thanks for the suggestion. I would generally scoff at such a suggestion but to my complete surprise it appears to have worked. What makes me even more curious is how such a problem could occur and how a software reset could cure it. http://www.upaboveit.com/images/fun/confused2.gif

Thanks again.

Hi,
Someone can explain me the use of this switch. I have a SPL 1000 R.
Thanks in advance.
Umberto

Curt,
My question is in regards to placement of my SPL1200R. It is currently located on the floor placed just to the left of my left front bookshelf speaker. My speakers are sitting on an audio rack 24" off the floor. Because of space limitations my front speakers are currently only 40" apart. However, I am considering placing the sub on the left hand side of the rack, and mounting the speakers on stands. The purpose of this is to get my fronts up a few inches higher, and also get them a little farther apart. So my question is, would the performance of the sub be compromised by placing it 24" off the ground? I would love to get better performance from my speakers, but not at the expense of compromising my bass. I would appreciate your input.

Hi,
The only way to tell for sure is to try it. Bass needs boundaries so when you raise it from the floor you will normally lose some output.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
new Sub owner here.

Today i changed my Klipsch 10" Subwoofer (RPW-10) to the Velodyne DLS-4000R I got to tell you that Sub rocks!! It's producing a really nice deep bass without any vibration or distortion. The remote is a nice feature to have. Fills my living room very well. My room size is 21'x17'x8'. I still have to run MCACC on my Pioneer VSX-9120THX receiver and see what results will i get.

I have a couple of question to everybody:

In the receiver option should i set my speakers (Klipsch RF62's,RC62,RS52's) to small or large and the crossover to 80Hz?
Also the Sub has a LowPass crossover knob from 40HZ to 120Hz or a "Direct" option which will allow frequencies up to 200Hz. Highpass crossover is 80Hz or 100Hz.
Im using a single Monster Subwoofer cable (450sw).

Thanks.

Hi,
My recommendation would be to call all speakers 'small', set the crossover in the receiver to 80 hz and put the Velodyne crossover to direct. You are not using the sub's high pass filter so 80 or 100hz doesn't matter.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

mtommy79 -- With your RF-62's, Curt's recommendations are correct, except that I would use the 80Hz crossover (the RF-62's are flat, +/- 3dB, to 38Hz, so there is no need to go higher than 80Hz for the LFE setting).

Thanks for the reply's. You guys are very helpful.
I'll test it with The Dark Knight BD tonight. ;)

Hi,
I agree with 80hz, that's what I posted.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

Back in 2004 I bought a new DD-18. Barely had it roughly calibrated when my wife surprised me and left the nest. Initially I thought I was hearing some distortions and overall, I thought the bass was less tight than I had expected but I assumed some of what I was hearing was due to set-up, vibrating RPT cabinet, my old loose wooden house (closets, shelves, etc.).
Due to the depression from my marriage breaking up, a few years went by without my caring much about movies, HT, nevermind fiddling with the sub. Everything just sat.

Recently I got a Blu-ray (Sony 550 to connect thru analogue multi-inputs on my Sony DA-7ES rcvr.) and have watched Ironman and Hulk. Both movies bottom out the DD-18 at times and at other times definitely distort. I am also sure now that I was/am hearing distortion with DVD's using the coaxial digital connection. Sub never bottomed out with digital connection for Dolby Digital though.

The system was initially properly calibrated with the Radio Shack meter. Recently for Blu-ray, I did add the 10DB boost (AVS members say add 10-15db boost due to analague connection) that the Sony DA-7ES allows for analogue. I also have the option to configure and use pre-sets in the DD-18 for DVD/digital or the analogue set-up or I can just adjust the sub volume with the remote.

Even with the subs volume set at only 14, it can bottom out and at that volume I lose a lot of impact. I have played around with different amounts of servo, different volumes, etc. Before getting a Blu-ray player, I thought maybe the LFE output of the Sony DA-7ES might be the problem but there is still distortion and now even bottoming using analogue.

I could probably use a DD-18 expert to come over and set this sub up. I thought my dealer would when I bought it but no dice, expecially now. I think I got a bad one out of the box at this point but I am hoping I am missing something. It does okay with SACD and DVD-A but not HT. I never get the chest-hits or pants-flapping impact I expected and read about. When I turn the sub up, it sounds muddy, lots of rumbly, annoying bass. I was hoping for tight, impactful bass at least when the program material delivered it.

Is there any way a certified tech can test a sub in your home to see if it's not working properly?

Any set-up suggestions? I have not run an auto-cal. I haven't even upgraded the firmware in the sub from version 1. Just beginning to give a darn about toys again but I still don't feel like spending hours with the sub. Thanks to all.

Hi,
First thing to do is update the software. The update is on the website and you download it to your computer and then to the DD. You don't mention room size and openings into other rooms (total cubic displacement) so I don't know if a DD-18 is adequate. If possible, please call me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi curt,

I am the proud owner of an HGS-12 (repaired twice due to really dirty electricity here - I think you were the guy who helped me with that both times - thanks!)

Now I am looking at replacing a smaller subwoofer in my bedroom system, an NHT Supersub (2 x 6.5 inch drivers) that has stopped working. I'm looking at the DLS-3500R as the replacement. The entire room volume is less than 2,000 c.f., and we don't listen very loud.

My question to you would be 1) is that a good choice, and 2) what about the impact mini? What would be the difference in sound quality (I know the difference in features - the DLS definitely wins out).

Thanks

Hi,
Given your room size, I'd go with the DLS-3500R or better yet the DLS-3750R. Sonically the DLS and Impact Mini would be similar.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt. Shipping is an issue for me, so if the 3750R can fit for Priority Mail, I will probably go up. I'm just assuming that it doesn't but I haven't checked with the dealer yet.

Thanks!

EDIT: the 3750 is too large for Priority Mail. I went with the 3500. Looking forward to having another Velodyne in the house!

I already have the dls5000 velodyne subwoofer(and it is big) Just curious will I loose anything going with the 4000 instead. My setup after audyssey auto setup the subwoofer is at 10volume and the onkyo is at -4.5. My thinking is that with a dls4000 I would still have plenty of headroom, just curious if it would sound any different after the audyssey setup.. Mike

Hi,
You don't mention room size and if there are openings into other rooms and if so, those room sizes. The DLS-5000 has close to twice the output capability of the DLS-4000. It is important to have enough reserve to handle the explosions, extended rumbles and other demands of H/T. If you want my opinion, keep the DLS-5000. It's a great sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am interested Velodyne Subwoofer system Model ULD15 series II with 400 watt servo amplifier to a Denon avr-3808ci.

How do recommened to conned this or is compatable?

Hi,
You don't state whether you own the ULD or are considering the purchase of one. I would not recommend purchasing the ULD because service and parts are very limited. I would also not recommend the ULD for H/T except in a small room.
The hook-up is simple. You run a 'rca' cable from the Denon's subwoofer jack to the ULD outboard amplifier. At the ULD amp add a 'Y' splitter and use the two input jacks marked 'from preamp'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Actually I am considering purchasing one and wanted to know if I could get it to work. The price was really nice. Do you by chance know the dementions of the ULD-15 series II?

Hi,
The woofer box is: 22.5" X 17" X 18.25" (LWH) 90 pounds. The controller/amp is: 17" X 3.5" X 11" (WHL) 15 pounds.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Comparing the DD15 to the DLS5000R......

Big difference in price here.... both 15 inch woofers.....

Worth the price difference ?

What are the benefits of the DD series...?


Shelly

Hi,
The DLS-5000R is a 'bang for the buck' high efficient bass reflex (port, slot, passive radiator) design which provides a lot of output for those who need a large subwoofer for a budget to mid price system. This sub rates very high on the performance/price scale. This has been my number one recommendation for friends, relatives and others who are not audiophiles and on a limited budget, but want the excitement and realism that H/T can offer.

BTW the new DEQ series adds auto room equalization to DLS performance, making it a real bargain for a digital 5-band room correction system.

The DD series is Velodyne's 'state of the art' high end subwoofer. It's the best we build complete with servo feedback that monitors distortion to provide the most accurate bass available. For years the DD series have been the industry standard and the subwoofer which other high end manufacturers aim for.
In addition the DD's have an onboard computer to provide the best and most flexible bass management system available as part of the subwoofer. You can equalize your room while viewing the results on your TV in real time. You can pick crossovers, slopes, subsonic filters, phase settings and different cutomized presets. In short, you are in control of how you want the subwoofer set up. There are also automated set ups to get you started. There is currently nothing on the market like the Velodyne DD subwoofer.

There is much product information on the website (www.velodyne.com) and all our current manuals are there for downloading if you want detailed info on a specific unit.

I hope this short explantion helps. Please call me if you need more info or wish help in making a subwoofer selection.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for you help.

So, your advise would be not to purchase a ULD-15 unless you get a really good deal? I have a f-1000 downstairs and looking for another sub for an upstairs home theater system.

What would you recommend to use with a Denon avr-3808ci and linn Tucan speakers? Also, is there an expected life span of a subwoofer?

Hi,
I wouldn't recommend purchasing the ULD for reasons already stated.
The recommended subwoofer depends on cubic displacement (size of room or rooms) and budget. Go to www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and then 'selection wizard' or call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

mward1ncrrcom -- Velodyne sub-woofers have a very long life span (as do other good quality speakers). I have one of the first servo-subs that Velodyne made (the ULD-15) - its about 20 years old and still going strong.

However, the ULD series is actually well past the end of it's lifetime, in practical terms, which is why Curt isn't recommending that you buy one, and I second that recommendation. .The replacement is the DD-15. If the price of a DD-15 is more than you want to pay, then one of the DLS models may be a better choice (see his post, #5107, just before your last one). As he said, give him a call, and he will help you out.

Curt,

Thanks for the suggestion. I would generally scoff at such a suggestion but to my complete surprise it appears to have worked. What makes me even more curious is how such a problem could occur and how a software reset could cure it. http://www.upaboveit.com/images/fun/confused2.gif

Thanks again.
Looks like I spoke too soon. The problem has reappeared.

Sorry, looks like it's time to make that call to Velodyne repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I'm not in the USA. I'm in Australia. Who is the authorised Velodyne repairer over here?

Hi,
I sent you a PM with instructions.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a Velo F1200 Servo that has served me well for many years. I was watching The Dark Night last evening and one of the rocket explosions took out the sub. The sub has a constant very loud hum with no input and the volume set to zero. When I pull the grill and turn it on you can see the cone extend to max. Is there anything I can pull apart and look at? Did something in the plate amp give up the ghost? Appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
JD

Hi,
The amp is likely blown.
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt - Will do!
JD

I wanted to post an update. I called service this morning and they were very helpful. Sending my amp in for repair will cost me $235 so I have decided to part ways with this one. It has served me well for more than 15 years so it does not owe me anything more at this time. If anyone is looking for an F-1200 driver, or other parts outside of the amp, let me know.
Thanks,
JD

Thanks for your post. If I talk to someone needing the driver, I'll send them your way.
Take Care,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Has anyone seen a review of the velodyne spl-1500r which includes instrumented measurements.

Jay

Just a curiosity question, but are the DD range subs indestructible from a driver point of view? As the servo keeps the driver within its excursion limits, it should be impossible to break the driver (other than faults). Is that right? or would that only be true at higher servo setting values?

Hi,
I'd never say never, but the DD drivers are close to indestructible at any servo setting. We rarely lose a driver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Has anyone seen a review of the velodyne spl-1500r which includes instrumented measurements.

Jay

this isn't exactly a review ... but it's a thorough measurement of the 1500R

http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=22064&start=0&rid=14&SQ=1178450584

measures pretty well IMO, looks good too.

Curt,

A question or two about the SC series:

I've got a hodge-podge of SC speakers, and 2 sc-1250 amps.

I have 1 in-floor 12" SC model, and 1 standard box 12" SC model. I read on your site that the in-floor has "more output" than the standard 12", presumably becuase the cabinet is about 20% larger.

Question 1 is: There is no distinction between the 2 types of 12" in the Amps setup menu - doesn't matter ?

Question 2 is: Would my SC-15 have "more output", as the 12" I.F. does, if I were to put it into a ~20% larger enclosure? IIRC, exact enclosure volume isn't that critical to a sealed design? Would extension be lower? Is there any negative to increasing enclosure volume (I've got plenty of space where it is installed)?

Question 3 is: Could I put my SC-15 and SC-12 I.F. unit on the same amp, and choose 15" in the set-up, and be OK? Or would it be better to choose 12"? (I realize it would be better to keep drivers the same when using 2, but would like to know just what the setup speaker size changes: EQ? Amp. limiter? etc...?

Have been a Velodyne fan for years, starting with a number of ULD units years ago, and currently have 2 original SPL-1200s which have been in continual svc. since new, and just recently the SC equipment, which mostly I haven't used yet. I've got 2 8" units in use only at the moment in a small system, and I'm very happy with them. Can't wait to get the bigger ones going in purpose-built room!

Hi,
The SC-1250 amp was designed to drive two of the same SC passive subwoofers, not a mix. I'll send you a PM to address your situation.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Room of ~1600 cubic foots. It is possible to buy model dd-10, instead of dd-12?

Hi,
If the 1600 cubic foot room has no permanent openings, then the DD-10 is fine. If this is primarily for home theater, the DD-12 will always have additional reserve and I would recommend it, if space allows.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I've owned a FSR-15 for the last 10 years and have had ZERO doubts about its performance...until now. The other day I was listening to Nine Inch Nails Live- Beside you in time on blu-ray and during the song Burn about 1 minute in a synthesizer kicks in lets rip a very deep pulse of bass. I use a Panasonic DMP-BD30 bitstreaming Dolby-TrueHD to an Integra DTC-9.8 with a Sunfire Cinema Grand amp and with the volume turned up to -20dB that part of the song rocks the sub but any louder than that the bass is no where near as strong. I played that part of the song over and over again at the same volume (-15dB) and walked all around the room but could not hear the depth when at -20dB. I placed my hand on the heat sinks on the back of the sub and it was hot enough that I could only keep my hand there for about 2 seconds. My room is 11'x18'x8' (1600 cubic feet). I have a weird feeling that this sub, for at least this track, does not have the power needed to sustain such a low note. Could that be the case? Should I consider getting another sub with a more powerful amp or should I consider adding another sub to the mix? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
Home theater and especially some of the new blu-ray movies put a tremendous strain on subwoofers and the F series subs were designed in a music (not H/T) era. Does your room have any permanent openings into other rooms? If so these rooms have to be added to the cubic displacement as that's where much of the bass will go.
It appears your sub is maxed out and going into compression. It is also running very hot.
Try the following set up for the subwoofer:
1) Raise the volume in your Integra for the subwoofer channel to three fourths of the way up. The auto level settings often limit output to the subwoofer.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both the sub's input jacks.
3) Keep the volume on the subwoofer well below 12 O'clock (straight up). 10 Oclock is a healthy spot.
4) Place the subwoofer in a corner away from any room openings.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Just playing around with a second DD-18 and finding after set up that the master sub plays at a lower level than the slave sub when both are on the same number volume level (eg. 20 and 20.)

I'm thinking because they are EQ'ed completely different that that's the reason.
I need to raise the master subs volume 5 notches (eg. 25 and 20) above the slave subs volume to get the same dB's out of both.
Do I do that or keep the volume's the same?

The subs are different versions one is v2.2 and the other the older v2.0 (the v2.2 is louder) I doubt this would make the difference.

Any thoughts.

Craig.

Hi,
In order to work correctly together, they should be the same software version so upload both to the latest version. You are correct that eq as well as room placement could account for the volume variation so have the volume set so that each plays the same at listening position and if the numbers are different, that's fine. I would also give them more input from your receiver or pre/pro by raising the volume for the subwoofer channel and back off some on the DD's to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi, I sent you a PM with instructions. Thanks, Curt (928) 858-4430
Well, as an intermediate step (on David Santos' advice) I've had a look at the three pin connector feeding the IR receiver. The circuit board side has a standard three pin setup seen commonly on computer motherboards as a fan header. The socket half of the connector (on the three IR wires) is a strange style I have not seen associated with that circuit board fan header style. It is not even of the same material. I would go so far as to say that the assemblers are using the wrong type. It fits, but does not snap into place like it should. Further, the amount of clamping pressure applied by the small metal sleeves inside the socket onto the circuit board mounted pins was very weak. There was a substantial amount of 'play' when it was seated and I could slide it off the pins with no effort at all. This is Dec 2007 build date DD-18.

I could not reliably state that the electrical connection was poor but the physical connection did not impart confidence, especially in an environment where vibration is the order of the day.

So, I disassembled the socket connector and bent the tangs in the metal sleeves such that once the pin is inserted there is a very positive clamping pressure applied to the pins. After reassembly, there was a definite improvement in the physical integrity of the pin to socket connection. Time will tell if this solves the issue.

My current theory is that vibration in the connection would cause the board to momentarily lose the electrical connection to the IR receiver. However, rather than simply be an internittent fault what the momentary break in connection does is (either via software reaction or circuit board design) immediately drop the IR receiver from the system completely. This would explain why a power cycle or 8-9-0 reset would be required to pick up the IR receiver again.

If the theory is accurate then there is an opportunity for Velodyne to adjust the software or the board design to prevent that momentary disconnect from causing a complete subsystem failure (loss of IR receiver), not to mention making sure the correct connectors are being used by the assemblers.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll pass it on.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
In order to work correctly together, they should be the same software version so upload both to the latest version. You are correct that eq as well as room placement could account for the volume variation so have the volume set so that each plays the same at listening position and if the numbers are different, that's fine. I would also give them more input from your receiver or pre/pro by raising the volume for the subwoofer channel and back off some on the DD's to compensate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt,

I have always had the sub channel in the receiver up to 8/10 even when I ran one DD-18 so I have done the same for the two.

Also would you calibrate one DD-18 to match the other speakers dB's then switch that one off and do the second the same or do both together to match the other speakers dB's.

I will update to the latest version when I get a cable.

Craig

Hi,
I would do the volume one at a time with a SPL meter if you have one.
Curt (928) 858-4430

The reason I ask is you hear so many different opinions on this subject, just reading the thread below you get the opposite.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1096139

Hi,
Try it either way. I answered what seemed logical to me. BTW, you can hook your DD up to the TV and with one DD at a time get the same level. That's what I would do.
Thanks,
Curt

The subs are different versions one is v2.2 and the other the older v2.0 (the v2.2 is louder) I doubt this would make the difference.
See here for a small discussion of the differences:

http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=18356

Hello -

The subject line says it all.

The normal servo pop at start-up keeps popping every few seconds and does not stop.



The above is the original post of my problem.

I sent the amplifier unit only to Velodyne, and they swapped it for a repaired one, at a cost of $240 on 1/14/2008.

Well the same popping thing started again last night, so the amp is blown again.

Does anyone know what Velodyne's warranty is on repairs???

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a DPS-10 that has worked great for about 2 years. After turning it on today, it puts out no sound. The blue lights on the front are on, the amp sounds like it turns on when I power the sub on with the switch in the back, but no sound. Is there a way I can test it to make sure its not my reciever, which I believe works fine because all of my other channels and speakers work fine. How hard is this to replace, fix, disasemble. Should I start looking for a new sub because I really like this one! Thanks for anyones suggestions and advice!

I have a DPS-10 that has worked great for about 2 years. After turning it on today, it puts out no sound. The blue lights on the front are on, the amp sounds like it turns on when I power the sub on with the switch in the back, but no sound. Is there a way I can test it to make sure its not my reciever, which I believe works fine because all of my other channels and speakers work fine. How hard is this to replace, fix, disasemble. Should I start looking for a new sub because I really like this one! Thanks for anyones suggestions and advice!

Hi,
A quick trouble-shoot is to run the analog audio (rca) outputs of your DVD or CD player directly into the input jacks of the subwoofer and then play a CD or DVD. If it woofs, then it's the receiver. As always turn the subwoofer off when making or changing connections. If there is no sound then call Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi

I am trying to upgrade my DD-15 to the latest software version but I am getting the error ‘’Error opening file “ ‘’ (or something like that).

I tried with a ‘normal’ serial port (old pc with Win XP) as well as with 2 different USB – Serial adapters as well as with about 10 cables i have in stock (i think that most of them are Mouse extension ones) and I am always getting the same message.

The same message I get even when trying to run the software without my sub connected (in old hardware configs).

Even if I am not using the right cable, is it normal to get this error message on all above mentioned cases?

Finally, if that’s the case, any ideas on where I can find a wire diagram of the correct mouse extension cable?

Thanks

Hi,
The correct cable is a pin-for-pin or straight-thru cable. The modem cables reverse pins 2 and 3 and won't work. The proper cable is available at Radio Shack and some computer stores. I suspect you don't have the correct cable.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 958-4430

Hi Curt,

I had my DD12 setup by a pro installer when I bought it new Dec '05, but I'm in the mood to get more familiar with my least well-known component in my system.

I'm pretty sure I want to do the manual EQ, but what is the difference between the auto EQ and the self EQ? I think I saw you say in another post there are 3 types of EQ on the DD series.

Also, do you think two subs would benefit such a small and sealed room, creating a smoother frequency response and extra headroom? Since I have a DD12 now, I would assume another DD12 would be the sub to have if I chose to go with 2, but would two DD12's be overkill in that room?

Cheers to another DD-12 user. In anything but LARGE rooms, it totally kicks!

At present, I'm trying to guesstimate when to sell it in order to replace it with a latest and greatest version....whenever THAT'S announced. :)

Hi Curt,

I had my DD12 setup by a pro installer when I bought it new Dec '05, but I'm in the mood to get more familiar with my least well-known component in my system.

I'm pretty sure I want to do the manual EQ, but what is the difference between the auto EQ and the self EQ? I think I saw you say in another post there are 3 types of EQ on the DD series.

Also, do you think two subs would benefit such a small and sealed room, creating a smoother frequency response and extra headroom? Since I have a DD12 now, I would assume another DD12 would be the sub to have if I chose to go with 2, but would two DD12's be overkill in that room?

Hi,
The 'Self-eq' (3-2-1-on remote) has the signal sweep (15-200hz) internally sent directly to the subwoofer speaker, so the only connection required is the mic.
In order to do 'auto' or 'manual' eq, you need to run the two DD eq-out jacks of the DD into vacant analog input jacks of your receiver. Think of it as hooking up a CD player to your system. You also run the DD video output jack into your TV.
Now the signal sweep will play through both your front speakers (select stereo mode in receiver) and the subwoofer, and you will see the signal sweep on the TV. You can then select 'auto-eq' or do a 'manual-eq'. Some do 'auto-eq' first and then fine tune manually. You need to become familiar with the owner's manual and follow the instructions. If you add a second subwoofer, the best choice would be another DD-12. I will be available for phone calls on Jan. 5th.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for your reply, Curt. Your few sentences did a better job at explaining these 3 methods of EQing than the manual did. Can't believe I didn't include the volume of my room! 1,800 cu ft.

Yeah, I spent about 6 hours today really going through the manual and EQing, and I did both the auto and manual (incl parametric EQ). I'm very very limited with my sub placement - unless I pull out my stand and free my sub cable, I can't move it at all at this time.

I have 2 nasty valleys at 75 and 122-ish. Couldn't get it tighter than +/- 6 dB (crossover at 80db). I used every single variable available, and always tested the results immediately on the response graph. The best effort +/- 6dB is true for both auto and manual EQ. Guess my next step is to free up my sub cable to see where I could physically possibly position it, and then go from there. I may get better response with the sub at a location that is not my visual preference.

One thing I did first was to upgrade the firmware from 2.0 to 2.2.2. After EQing, my setup and preset 1 volume was 30. Put on a recorded HBO movie, and the sub was making a rumble like something was broken. Never heard that in 3 years. I am positive the sub volume was well matched to the satellite's volume, per the system response graph. Turned it down to about 20 with no real effect w/ the grumbling, and just turned off the sub. Later in the movie, this was seriously bothering me, so I turned the sub back on, and the loud 'grumbling', like wind in a microphone, was gone. Weird. Any such reported problems w/ 2.2.2?

After some objective listening to familiar material, and because for the last several months I felt my sub was too loud, I settled on sub vol 22. Only difference between preset 1 and preset 2 is p1 has a theater/music setting of 8 (max servo gain) for music, and p2 has a setting of 4 (relax the servo a bit for effects). What a great setting this is - love it!

Re: 2 DD12's in my 1,800 cu ft room, I would believe that giving my room proper acoustical treatment would do wonders for my frequency response from 15-200hZ, along with removing the 2 valleys.

Even though step 16 says I would normally not adjust the subsonic filter, I changed mine from 15 to 17 because the Velodyne spec sheet shows the DD12 has a low limit of 17Hz, and changing to 17Hz really helped flatten my low-end response on the graph. I would imagine that, just as I wouldn't want to send signals to my satellites lower than they can accurately reproduce, the same holds true for my sub. Is that true?

Can you point me to a source that documents the changes between 2.0 and 2.2.2? My manual is written for 2.0. I notice the online manual is written for 2.2.0. I'll check it out for differences.

Thank you,
Ron

Cheers to another DD-12 user. In anything but LARGE rooms, it totally kicks!

At present, I'm trying to guesstimate when to sell it in order to replace it with a latest and greatest version....whenever THAT'S announced. :)And cheers back to you, as well. Yes, I am very very happy with this component of my system, obviously an extremely high quality product.

Re: the latest and greatest, I saw a few pages back in this thread that Curt said the DD is the flagship state-of-the-art now, and in the future. You may be holding on to your DD for some time. Happy Holidays.

theranman -- As Ronnie 1.8 said, plan on keeping your DD-12 for a very long time. I have a ULD-15 (their original servo-sub, and the predecessor of the DD-15) that is 20 years old, and is still going strong.

Merry Christmas everyone.....

Been watching a number of movies with my new Blu-ray player, and I'm wondering if I should get myself a new SW. I've got an SPL-1000 and am real happy with it; but don't know if I'm missing anything under 24Hz while watching movies.

Is it worth it to go for those few less Hz on the low end?

Total extended room volume is approx 2300 cubic feet. As I said I am happy with what I've got now, but am not sure what I may be missing....

Hi,
Since humans don't hear much of anything below 30hz, I'm not sure what you're missing. However in the spirit of the season, I have no problem with you giving your son the SPL and purchasing the all new Optimum-12. It's a fantastic sub and we all can sure use the business.
Happy Holidays,
Curt@velodyne

Hi Curt - appreciate the response. As I said, I love the little SPL, but after reading some other threads elsewhere here, I wasn't sure what I was missing.

I asked my question here because I feel like I'm part of the Velodyne family, and figured I'd receive a straight answer here. I edited my orig post because I almost asked a reeeally stupid question, but thats probably due to too much spiked eggnog last night.

Anyways, next time I buy - it'll be a Velodyne.

Reeally stupid questions should be sent as PM's, that way I have to keep them secret.
Besides, they're my favorite.
More eggnog!
Curt

Reeally stupid questions should be sent as PM's, that way I have to keep them secret.
Besides, they're my favorite.
More eggnog!
Curt
In that case, 80% of the posts here should be sent via PMs. :p

wje -- The only "stupid" ones are those that state: "I don't read manuals (instructions, etc.) . . ." :eek:.

A lot of the posts are due to lack of knowledge, or the writer being technologically challenged (or both).

Oops, I forgot to buy the eggnog.

Have a Happy Holiday!

Hello Velodyne fans, and specifically owners of the DD series, or the SMS-1. After owning a DD12 for three years, and because I have no $$$ to invest in any kind of system upgrade and I go through withdrawals if I'm not tinkering with my system in some manner, I decided to overcome my fear of jumping in to my DD12 and finally learn all the features, and how to set it up. I had a pro installer set it up 3 years ago, and remember that he did not use the included mic, but set it up by ear.

I don't recall what the response graph looked like upon initial install 3 years ago, but with some help from Curt on certain settings, and going through each step in the manual, I was able to get my DD12 response +/-2db from 25hz to 80hz (my crossover). Even though the DD12 goes to 17hz, setting the subsonic filter to 25hz gives it some headroom.

I also increased my avr's sub volume so that my DD12's setup volume is 14. I understand it's a good idea to keep the DD's volume in the teen's, and not exceed 20. If you find you need to exceed 20, increase the volume from your avr.

I think my favorite feature is the "theater/music" sonic gain control. I have one preset to favor music sources, and one to favor non-music sources. And of course I programmed my Harmony 880 to enter preset 1 or preset 2, depending on which of my 5 activities I enter.

Since for the time I'm still tinkering with the volume/gain control, I think I'm going to permanently connect an S-video from my DD12 to my avr, so I don't have to keep connecting/disconnecting the video cable.

I couldn't be happier with my results. I spent about 8 hours over 2 days, but I feel like I have a new subwoofer, as I feel great knowing I have such excellent results, and that I did it (vs paying someone) - thanks Curt for your help.

Happy holidays...

Ron

I removed all the screws and also the amplifier from the wood frame but I still can't get the sub speaker out! What did you guys use to seal it in? What am I supposed to do to get it out for repair?

It really annoys me when something is screwed in with a dozen screws then you find it's epoxied it into place. Overkill.

Help would be appreciated.

Hi,
Well considering all the years it's been in there, it will probably need a little help from a flat blade screwdriver working gently around the edge. With sealed box designs it is very important to avoid any air leaks. If that doesn't help, on Monday please contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

I appreciate the response, but I can't even get a fine blade in there let alone a screwdriver. They must have put in some kind of sealant. I'm having it repaired soon for rotted foam so I want to take it out. I'll have to email them. I'll be surprised, though, if they support it. Its over 20 years old!

Thanks

Hopefully they'll have some advice on removing the driver. I've never heard of a problem. If you weren't the original owner, maybe someone added some glue or something. I know of several ULD-12 owner's who removed the driver this year without any problem.
Good Luck,
Curt

I am not an audio expert, and have just started researching about different subs. I have two questions about the Optimum-12 subwoofer.

I'd like to know how well the Optimum-12 performs in large rooms, and if it has been used in larger rooms. I have a living room that is about 4100 ft^3 that is also open to other rooms. The total volume of the whole open area is probably 10,000-11,000 ft^3. I understand this is a large area for a sub but I found one reviewer who claims that this sub did a nice job in his large open area.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/subwoofer-reviews/subwoofers/velodyne-optimum-12-subwoofer_4.html

I know this sub is of the smaller kind and the larger the sub size the better it can displace air, but I have built in cabinets with a set space for the sub. Any sub I get has to fit in a space that is 18W x 17H x 18D. Subs that don't fit into this space are absolutely not an option.

But on the bright side, I am not looking for a house rattling top of the line subwoofer, although I definitely want a good sub that sounds good during movies (some room rattling would be nice). This is mainly going to be used as part of a 5.1 surround sound home theater system. To date i have used a 250 Watt NHT vented sub with a 10" driver. Until it stopped working, after 8 1/2 years, the NHT did a nice job and was more than adequate for my bass needs. I hope this is a good indication of my needs.

Here is a crude floor plan of the living room and adjacent open areas.
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/4175/floorplankg7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

EDIT: Curt has explained to me the relevant information about the Optimum-12.

Hopefully they'll have some advice on removing the driver. I've never heard of a problem. If you weren't the original owner, maybe someone added some glue or something. I know of several ULD-12 owner's who removed the driver this year without any problem.
Good Luck,
Curt

Well, mine was manufactured in Nov. 1988, so it could be something with design changes for those people, because I am the original owner.

Thanks. I wrote them yesterday. My repair guy can fix it in the cabinet so I'll probably have to do it that way.

My DPS-10 just quit the other day. I was not using it (no signal input), but it was powered on. I heard a slight noise from the sub and noticed the blue lights were not on. I checked the power outlet and repeatedly turned the power switch off and on. Nothing; no lights or sound. If I put my ear up close to the sub, I could hear a very soft click when I toggled the power switch; it sounds like some type electrical switching devise inside the box. It is not the speaker making this sound, it is something else inside the box. Is there an internal fuse I can get to?
I purchased the sub in March of 2008, so it is under warranty. However, I don't want to have to package and ship the whole sub, if it is probably just the amplifier. I don't have the original shipping box either, so packing the whole sub is a problem. I am fairly handy with tools and a multimeter. Can anyone help?

Hi,
Tomorrow please contact Velodyne repair/service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You will only need to return the amplifier, not the whole subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

Thanks for the quick reply. Can you tell me how to remove the amplifier. I have removed the screws, but the amp plate does not readily separate from the box. There is no room to get a screw driver blade in the plate /box interface to pry it. Also, do you think the amp has failed?

Hi,
Our repair dept. will instruct you on the amp removal process. It appears the amp has failed.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,
What is the speaker level input impedance for the DD-18?
Thanks.

Hi,
Speaker level impedance for the DD subs is 470K ohms. This very high impedance will have no adverse effect on the load seen by your amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

My F-1800RII blew few days ago. The volume was only set to 9.5 o'clock position (7 o'clock is minimum). I took the amp out and saw the fuse blew. I disconnected the speaker wire and servo wire from amp and put a new fuse (5A, 250V, spec. is 8A, 250V) in. Soon as I flipped the power switch, the fuse blew. I tried it twice and both blew. I don't have the circuit diagram, so I cannot tell what is going on. Is the circuit diagram available from Velodyne? I am guessing it may be caused by a bad rectifier. Do you think this amp is repairable? Or, I should trade in for a B-stock sub. Please advise. Thanks.

Jung

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for your options.
Thanks,
Curt

Hey Curt!

I removed the amplifier from my 5000R for service but seem to now have misplaced the 10 <?> screws used to hold it in place. Am I looking for black philips-head, or silver, or what??

Could you provide the spec on the necessary screw, ie. 1" 8x32, so I can replace them? Thanks!

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for the info you need.
Thanks,
Curt

Howdy,

Over the holiday I was helping my friend setup his new 1080i LCD with his older PSB speakers. He also has a Velodyne VA12BVx10 sub that has seen better days. It had minimal use because it was just way too powerful for his tastes.

1) I haven't be able to find this sub on Velodyne's site (va-1210, va-1250x?)

2) Is it worth spending the $30-$40 to replace the foam on this 10 year old sub? Should he just purchase something new and smaller that might be more to his listening tastes?

thanks.

Curt,

Im interesting in the DLS-5000R. But i was wondering what is the difference between this model vs the SPL-1500? I will use this for movies 90% and 10% music.

thannks

Hi,
If the room is medium to large or open to other rooms, I would pick the DLS-5000R especially for movies. The DLS-5000R (or DEQ-15 which adds auto-eq) is a bass relex design (slotted) and will play louder than the SPL-1500R which is a sealed box design. They share the same class 'D' amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks for the feedback, I'll pass it on.
Curt (928) 858-4430
Curt,

You may also pass on that since the mod I have had no issues whatsoever with the remote or the sub in general.

I have an older Velodyne F-1800R sub which I have used with (almost full-range) stereo speakers (Maggie 3.6R's) for some time. When set up with a relatively low X-over level, I have been happy with the results for stereo music, although I'm always looking for ways to improve the response.

I have a basic question regarding connections of line-level inputs to this unit. (If this is discussed elsewhere in this extensive discussion section, please tell me where to go.) The sub has two input jacks to which line-level RCA interconnect cables can be connected, but my legacy stereo preamp has only one sub output. - Am I missing something if I only connect a single line-level sub output to only one of the sub inputs? In other words, does the sub include two separate input circuits (possibly connected to two different amplifier sections driving two separate speaker coils), such that connection of a second line-level sub output to the second sub input would enhance the response? In other words, if the second sub input doesn't add anything, what's it there for in the first place? (It happens that my new pre/pro, an NAD 175, does have two sub outputs, but I am planning to use the second output to power a second sub.)

Also, if it is important to connect line-level interconnect cables to both of the sub's input jacks, would using a Y-adaptor RCA connector, connected from one interconnect to both of the sub inputs, help? Or would that introduce unwanted changes in the impedance?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

Jim Cate

Hi,
You're fine with your current hook-up since the sub feed from your preamp is already mono (Left plus right channel). The 'Y' splitter is your option, I tend to use them. There is no adverse impedance effect. If the volume on the F-1800RII is low, say around two or three dots, then there is no reason to use a 'Y', if it's up around 4 or 5 dots I would use one. Both input jacks are the same and summed into the single amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt

Considering an Optimum-8 for a music only system and looking for comments on if it's my best bet from the Velodyne line in the $1000 range.

I'll be using it in a 11.5'x16' room and integrating it with NHT Classic Three monitors. Again, music only - no movies.

Hi,
The all new Optimum series are outstanding performers in a space saving design. Either the Optimum-8 or the Optimum-10 is a great choice for your system.
Thanks,
Curt

slate1 -- You also need to tell us what the ceiling height is. If your room height is a typical 8' high, then your room volume = 11.5' x 16' x 8' = 1472 cubic feet.` However, if you have a cathedral ceiling, or it's a "family room" that is open to a kitchen, your room volume could easily be double that and a bigger sub would be needed.

As Curt said, the Optimum-8 might work out just fine.

What sub-woofer will work depends on room volume, not just floor space. Also, we need to know if there are any openings to other rooms or hallways - these spaces have to also be included in the volume of space that the sub-woofer has to drive. In some cases, music listening may have higher performance requirements than movies, depending on what type of music you listen to.

You also might want to go to the Velodyne "Selection Wizard" page (http://www.velodyne.com/wproduct/whproduct_new.aspx?sid=361p751u) and see what options might work the best for you (you need to enter the room volume (length x width x height), to start with).

Unfortunately, the Wizard has mot been updated to include the Optimum series (Curt, send a note to your web page designer).

Curt_C and CT_Weibe - THANKS for the quick responses!

The height of the room is 9' and I've got corner-busters in the upper ceiling corners and a variety of other room treatments from GIK Acoustics. Overall volume is around 1650 cubic feet.

This is a dedicated listening room - some LP shelving, a small sofa, and a coffee table are all that are in it besides equipment racks. When listening the room is not open to any other areas of the house.

Hi,
I would recommend the Optimum-10 for your system if space allows. It will play louder when needed, and go a little deeper than the Optimum-8 for not much more money. The whole Optimum series are very musical subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Well - I ordered the Optimum-8. I know it may sound silly coming from someone who just dropped $1k on a subwoofer, but I was on a tight budget and pushing the max at $1,000.

I measured my room, it's actually closer to 10.5x16x9 so hopefully it will integrate well with the NHT's! I'll post back once I've got it up and running.

Any set-up tips? I'll be connecting via the speaker hi-level inputs. The NHT's are -3db at 45hz: should I start with the crossover @ around 50hz?

Well - I ordered the Optimum-8. I know it may sound silly coming from someone who just dropped $1k on a subwoofer, but I was on a tight budget and pushing the max at $1,000.

I measured my room, it's actually closer to 10.5x16x9 so hopefully it will integrate well with the NHT's! I'll post back once I've got it up and running.

Any set-up tips? I'll be connecting via the speaker hi-level inputs. The NHT's are -3db at 45hz: should I start with the crossover @ around 50hz?

I'm going to guess 60Hz or higher to give your mains more headroom but I'd be interested to see what Curt suggests. You may also consider investing in a radio shack SPL meter to see how well your mains blend in with your Optimum at different crossover settings.

Hi,
I suspect about 60hz for the crossover. Just see where it sounds (blends) best. If possible I'd try line level in and out and have the benefit of bi-amping and not push the NHTs so hard. I don't know your electronics and why you decided to use speaker level. Maybe you have limitations.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt - I have many limitations!

I'm using speaker level inputs because, while I have a pre-out on my amp, I do not have a "loop" or main-in short of a tape-monitor loop.

So, I'll be running the NHT's full-range (they are down -3db @ 45hz according to the spec's and the Stereophile review measurements). I'm not concerned about relieving my amp of the power necessary to run the Classic Three's at their full capacity, it's plenty powerful enough and I've been very very pleased with their overall performance - I'm just looking for the sub to fill in the lowest register that's missing.

So, I guess the question is - if I run the NHT's un-augmented by an additional crossover, should I still begin experimenting by initially setting the Optimum-8's crossover @ 60hz or should it be closer to the NHT's -3db down measurement of 45hz?

PS - Magnus_CA: I do have access to a RS SPL meter that my brother uses and will have it on hand when I set it up. I was thinking that would be more for setting volume level.

Hi,
There's no way to tell you the crossover point for sure. I'd start at 60hz, it it's thin (bass shy) sounding, move the crossover point up, if it's on the boomy side move it down. Set it to where it sounds good to you. As to setting the level, if you use a SPL meter you'll probably want the sub about 5db higher to compensate for loss of hearing at low frequencies. For me at least, both the crossover and loudness levels are best set by ear. After all it's your ears that determines what you like, so experiment and take your time. You'll need to work the crossover and level together for proper balance. BTW, you can use the pre-amp outs of your amp into the line-level inputs of the sub and accomplish the same thing as your speaker level hook-up.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt, that's very helpful.

Is there an advantage to using the line level inputs as opposed to the speaker level inputs? The reason I ask is that I've got a spare set of Audioquest Type 4 speaker cables (same as I use with the NHTs) that I was going to use, but I suppose I could purchase some additional interconnects if there's a performance boost to be had from doing so.

Hi,
Given a choice, I prefer using a preamp signal rather than an amp into an amp. I doubt many, if any, would notice a sonic difference. Use what you have for now.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt. I was able to get a great frequency response on my DD12, but to do so had to stack 2 bands (1 at 63hz, 1 at 61hz), both maxed-out at +6db. Is that a problem? The next highest band is 2db, and all others are minus.

Also, I've literally spent 6 hours over the last couple days reading about the vast subject of crossover frequency, and am torn between my current setting of 80hz, or 60hz. My mains and surrounds are the same - floorstanding PBS:

on axis at 0 degrees +/- 1.5db, 42-20,000hz
on axis at 0 degrees +/- 3.0db, 30-23,000hz
off axis at 30 degrees +/- 1.5db, 42-10,000hz
lf cutoff -10db, 25hz

Do you have a preferenence between 60hz or 80hz crossover?

Lastly, as I understand reading the DD12 manual, though it is honestly poorly worded, is that it is desired to defeat the DD12's crossover if I have my receiver's crossover set (in other words, the avr's crossover cannot be defeated). In other words, I don't want to have the crossover set on both the avr and DD12. Is that right?

Hi,
Yes bypass the DD's crossover and set it in your receiver. For H/T I would use 80hz so the small woofers can be more dynamic in the upper bass. If you are getting plenty of output from the DD and the DD's volume isn't too high, then don't worry about the two maxed out bars.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks, Curt. I had checked and adjusted the speaker levels in my avr (excluding the sub level), and when I went in to my DD12 to defeat the crossover per your advice above, my nice flat line from 25hz-80hz was no longer flat! Hmm... After adjusting the avr's subwoofer volume so that I could get my DD12 volume around 12, the frequency response once again resumed to the shape I was so familiar with. Seems that adjusting the avr's 5.1 speaker levels can really have an impact on the DD12's behavior.

I re-calibrated my DD12 dropping all EQ bars an equal 0.5db, and was able to "work it" so that my 2 maxed-out bars are now 4.5db, from 6.0db. I feel better not have 2 stacked bars both maxed out.

I made a reference to this issue in post #5149, but have given it more attention, and believe my DD12 has a problem that only recently became known once I updated to v2.2.2.

On occasion, when my DD12 activates (it is on standby), I hear an unusual grumble/growl, like a generator or some such machine. It goes away after about 0.5 sec.

Today my wife mentioned that while she was recently watching a TiVo'd program, she heard a loud low noise that "didn't sound good". She's never said anything similar since getting the DD12 3 years ago.

I've noticed since upgrading to v2.2.2 that TiVo'd programs have more low-end than ever, and I've even set Preset 3 at volume 3 and programmed my TiVo activity to enter Preset 3, to counter the heavy low-end. Volume 12 is leveled to my mains, which are matched to the rest of my other 3 speakers (surrounds and center), so that gives you an idea of how much I've backed off the sub's volume here.

Today I put in a DVDA that I am very familiar with. The DVDA activity maps to Preset 1 which is volume 13. A very small bump from the "flat" 12. Sounds great, including the low-end from my sweet spot. I go to my DD12, get on my knees, put my head to the sub, and hear the generator again. Very obvious. I put my ear to the front right woofer, and hear no such sound, only the expected music. I pause the DVDA, put my ear to the front right woofer, and it is as quiet as though I had turned off my system. Put my ear to the subwoofer, and I hear that same generator noise. I would believe the DD12 should be as quite as any of my other speaker's when the audio source is paused, right?

The only variables that changed about the time I became aware of this behavior was upgrading to v2.2.2, which also reset my DD12. But I can't believe that resetting would cause any problems? So what did v2.2.2 add from v2.0? Or was it coincidental this happened right at the time I updated to v2.2.2?

In any case, I plan on calling Velodyne support first thing tomorrow. I live only 60 min from the Morgan Hill location, so hope I can drive it down and take it back home with me the same day.

I have a VELODYNE DD 15 I am happy with it, but some questions:

I have a midle size room with accoustic traitement.

The curve is not bad on the VELODYNE DD equalizer, but with a REW it's not the same. For instance I have stong room effect about 27 Hz. I can remove it, but with the REW (with VELODYNE microphone) I find a boost ( but not so strong).
The ear's thrue is perhaps between the REW and the VELODYNE ?
Is the 2.0 soft better than te mine (2.2.2). for HI FI use.?

Ivan222

Hi,
I am not familiar with REW (Room Equalization Wizard). There are so many systems out now and changes coming for sure. I know the DD's system to be very accurate. Splitting the difference might be a way to go. BTW, the 2.0 and the 2.2 software will both be accurate for audio or home theater.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi There Curt!

I have an issue regarding one of Velodynes newer subwoofer's which I just received the day before Christmas so I have not even had time yet to send in the warranty registration. The sub in question is the DEQ-15R 15" powered sub with 750 watts/rms. First off, I am very impressed with the level of dynamics that this sub adds to my so called home theater. I say this as my stereo may be a bit dated but is still considered quite high end.
I am running with NAD separates that I have owned since 1986. the pre-amp is the model 1155 running an NAD P2200 amplifier. My main speakers are OHM Walsh 2's that have been upgraded to the newer Super Walsh Mk II drivers in the last year or so.
My issue with the sub is that during normal to moderate volume listening, such as you would have if you were generally watching TV or even a movie, the sub just cuts out. The cut out will last anywhere from a couple of seconds up to about 15-20 seconds then it will come back on at what appears to be either a subsonic transient or an audible dynamic in the sound track. This is quite annoying as you might expect. If I am listening to more dynamic material at a higher volume, there is no loss / cut out of sound.
My pre-amp has two outputs, one is marked "normal" (600 ohm output impedence)@ 2 volts, which I assume is the "Line Level" input as described in the Sub's owner manual and the other output is listed as "High Level." The difference as listed in the NAD owners manual is that the "High Level" input is 13db louder with an output impedence of 220 ohms. I have been hesitent to use this high level as I did not have any specifications on the amp that is used in this sub other than RMS output wattage (750).
Can you please offer some insight as to why I may be experiencing this drop out of sound from the sub at lower to moderate listening volumes? If there is any other information that I can provide which may be helpful, please ask.

Regards,

George N.

Hi,
Fond memories, at one time I owned your exact system. Later went with the OHM-4's.
Try the following:
1) Use the hotter high-level output of the preamp.
2) Back off on the sub's volume to compensate.
3) Put the auto on/off switch in the 'always on' mode.
Let me know how this works out.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the input regarding the sound cutting out of my Velodyne DEQ-15R. I was leary abouty using the high outs of the pre-amp not knowing if the output impedence of 220 ohms would be too low for the amp to handle. I assumed that the 13db output difference could be compensated by using the sub's volume control. Anyway, I will give it a try and let you know what happens. Small world that you and I would own the exact same equipment. Really good stuff the NAD's and OHM speakers. Thanks Curt!

George N.

Hi,
Try #3 (always on) by itself first and see what that does. If it's the same try all three of the above.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi There Curt,

The problem with the DEQ-15R sub cutting out seems to have been solved by using the high output instead of the normal output. The auto on/off was already set to always on. The only thing I had to do was to modestly adjust the volume on the sub to compensate for the additional 13db of signal. If I really turn the volume down low it will still cut out but this is not the usual listening volume any way, I was just seeing how low it would go before the issue appeared, if it did. Thank you very much for the advice.
Regards,

George N. Grand Rapids, Michigan

Hi Curt,

I recently purchased the Velodyne VX-10 for my home stereo setup. I have connected the Onkyo receiver's speaker output to the input of the VX-10 and then connected the output on the VX-10 to Primus P362 floorstanders. I have set the gain on the VX-10 at 3, and set the cross over at around 100Hz.

I hope this hasnt been asked before, but I couldnt find the exact scenario based on a search.

I tried playing some low frequency sample wave files at 40hz, 50hz and so on. I felt that the sound was coming from both the VX-10 and the P362's, so I lowered the gain on the VX-10 to zero and could clearly tell that the P362's were playing those files. Isnt the crossover on the VX-10 supposed to cut off frequencies below 100Hz from reaching the Main speakers? If thats the case, is my sub faulty?

Also, I tried playing some really low samples at 20hz, 25hz and 30hz and could actually hear the sub outputting some bass and could clearly feel the vibration and air pumping out of the port, and could also hear some minor clipping noise. I have tried the same 20 and 25hz on my Beyerdynamics DT770 connected to Cambridge Dacmagic and couldnt hear a thing. Is this normal for the subwoofer to exhibit such behaviour?

Hi,
The entry level VX-10 does not have high-pass filters. The speaker-level outputs thru-put the full range signal to your speakers. Most all of these subs will be used with an A/V receiver which has high-pass filters for the satellite speakers. This sub is also designed to provide response down to 35hz, so I'm not surprised you would hear port noise and possible amp clipping when fed a 20, 25 or 30hz signal at a fairly high amplitude. We of course make subwoofers that reproduce those frequencies with power. With the VX-10 we have attempted to provide the most performance possible for the price. I'd be happy to talk to you about the proper Velodyne subwoofer for your needs, so please give me a call if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi! I have a Velodyne va-806 and the foam has disconnected on the 6" speaker. What do you recommend? can I get it refoamed? any suggestions? I'm thinking I'm not totally out of luck and have to buy a new one as I don't have much cash now and I like the sound of the 806.
thx!

Hi,
Call me tomorrow (or PM me), and I'll suggest some options. Velodyne unfortunately does not have a replacement speaker. I know the unit well.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am hoping someone out there can help me with my problem with my 5308. I ran the October firmware upgrade in December, and since I have run it, I no longer get the on screen menu from my Velodyne DD-18 to show up over HDMI. tried changing the resolution, I have tried resetting the microprocessor several times and even removed power from all my equipment over night, but nothing worked. I am passing the signal via s-video from the sub to my receiver, and I am able to get the on screen menu when I run the s-video directly to my tv, and I also get the on screen menu to show up when I run s-video from the sub to the receiver and use the s-video monitor out of the receiver to my tv. I contacted Velodyne and they verified that the sub was sending out a 480i signal, and talking to Denon, there should be no problem upconverting that signal via HDMI, but I still don't get the on screen menu via HDMI. I thought it might be something with the video upconversion, but I am running a VCR via s-video to the 5308 and it upconverts via HDMI just fine. Anyone out there with a Velodyne Digital Drive sub and a 5308 having or had the same problem? Any ideas on things to try to get the on screen menu to come through via HDMI? Thanks.

Hi, I am new. ENjoyed reading earlier discussions on this thread and the amazing Curt helping everyone with great answers and support.

I bought a DLS-3500 and soon figured it is small and 'not that great' compared to the MiniVee 10 I had demoed at the local Fry's store. So quickly, I got into the mood of upgrade. MiniVee 10 and I Believe SPL-1000R was identical with SPL having the Auto-EQ. Is that a reasonble assessment?
I am in the mood or ordering the SPL-1000R. I suddenly see that the SPL-R series is being discountinued. Is that right? What would be the replacement? Should I buy the SPL-1000R anyways? I see a great price drop among the online dealers who still have this model available. What would be your advice?
I loved the way the MiniVee 10 sounded, I think SPL-1000R would provide the same output.

Greatly appreciate.
cheers
Phal
San Jose, CA
Yamaha RX-V995, Infinity Floorstanding Large Front Speakers, Klipsch all others.

Hi,
Yes the MiniVee is a 'plain jane' version of the SPL series. The SPLs are discontinued and replaced by the Optimum series, so there are some great buys on the remaining SPLs. The DLS-3500 will play as loud or louder than the MiniVee. You can't determine how a sub will perfrom in your system by listening in a show room unless the room size is the same. You may very well need a much larger subwoofer especially if there are openings from your main room into other rooms. I suggest you check out www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and finally the 'sizing wizard' to see what is recommendeed. Without knowing more about your cubic displacement, I'd be checking out the SPL-1200R which is available at a great price and can handle up to 3000 cubic feet or more. It's a great sub. If you rather, give me a call and we'll determine your options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

pnanda,

As Curt said there are some great deals out there on the SPL series now that they are discontinued. I recently had to downsize my system after moving from a house to an apartment. I just got a SPL-1000R from an authorized Velodyne online dealer for an awesome price. For a small apartment living room the SPL-1000R is very impressive.

Andy

Curt,
Thanks for the great input and the PM. Andy, thanks for the info. Actually as I was typing the posting here, I had bought SPL-1000R from an authorized online dearler for a fantastic price (new, not refub).
I haven't measured my room, but it would be close to 12Wx18Lx15h, which the velodyne calculator says would need a 12-inch. But I think I am going to be okay with the 10inch because we don't hear sound very loud (two tiny kids), budget wise I couldnt have even afforded SPL-1000R without this great price reduction. I think the 1200R is going at $1K now.

I should be able to enjoy my first Sub for a while. The DLS3500 (8inch) I tried at home was good, but I am sure the 10inch SPL will be better. In the demo at the store, the price of MiniVee was much higher than the 3500R so had settled for 3500. THey didn't have the SPL or those special discounts.

cheers
PN

Curt, Gurus,

So for setting up the sub, the store is selling me a Y-cable. From the reading, I realise:
On the receiver:
- I should set all speakers to small
- My Yamaha RX-V995 doesn't have crossover freq setting. But setting all Bass through LFE and setting speakers to 'small' sets the crossover at 80Hz is what I understand.
- Connect the mono LFE output from Yahama Receiver to the mono LFE input on the sub. If this is correct, then I don't need the Y Cable anymore right? I shouldn't feed the mono LFE into the 2 line inputs using Y, should I? What are the reasons for either config?

SUB Config:
- Plug the Sub onto the wall plug. Hopefully that is okay. Any advice?
- Put switch to the 'subwoofer direct' option. At this point, crossover on subwoofer doesn't matter.
- Set up the sub with the microphone at listening position etc...

Any validation please?
cheers
PN

Hi,
Use the 'Y' adapter into both input jacks of the sub to provide more input so you can keep the sub's volume relatively low. Since you are 'undersubbed' this will help. In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to about three fourths of the way up and back off on the subs volume accordingly. With the receiver crossing over at 80hz, then the sub's crossover should be at 'direct'. BTW, the SPL-1200R is being sold for $900, so I'm told, but that is up to the dealer.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
I measured my room and it is 14Wx18W, has a cathedral ceiling + one opening 8ftx4ft towards a hallway. If I measure up the what the normal floor height should be, it is 8ft. so total is 2000sq.ft. But cathedral ceiling adds a lot of volume up above. Plus, there is a permanent 8x4 opening to the hallway.

Should I still look for 1200R or should 1000R suffice? Now, my interest is to listen to tight and clear bass and not necessarily very loud. But of course, I want to 'feel' as much as possible.
Also my worry is that, will the 1200R drown out my floor standing speakers while playing music?

cheers
PN

Hi,
If you can still locate one, grab the SPL-1200R. In no way will it be too much sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

pnanda

I am not Curt, but if you get the 1200R and properly calibrate it with the mains, it won't drown them out. I use to use two 15 inch subs before I downsized and properly calibrated they blended beautifully with my old tower speakers.
Use the subs EQ and an SPL meter with your Yamaha receiver. By the way set at small,the older Yamaha receivers set the crossover at 90hz.

Andy

No such thing as too much sub.

If calibrated correctly any model will blend well.

In fact, you want more sub than you need for headroom, budget permitting.

Great inputs. That is good to know. I learnt some more with my current DLS3500 setup (8inch). I was running the volume at close to 60-65 to get the desired bass. So I believe what Curt was saying was that the SPL-1000R would be no different on loudness (tighter though) than the 3500. So the 1200R would be at close to 30-35 volume for a similar listening requirement.

I would also prefer that the SUB is NOT working hard to produce the desired result. Hence my search for 1200R is now on. I have already received the previously ordered 1000R - sitting in my house fully sealed and all but I would need to return it and look for 1200. That is a tortue :), having a great sub in my storage area but I can't open it - don't want to :).

Search for a great deal on a SPL 1200 is ON.
cheers
PN

Curt, HELP! I have a very lightly used HGS12BG (build 3/15/02) that I purchased at Sound Advice in Tampa. I had broken my system down during a remodeling project and stored my equipment in my guest room. I just discovered one of the windows had a water leak. This caused the carpet to get damp, the sub was sitting on the carpet and the wood cabinetry, which was in contact with the carpet, wicked water. The lower part of the front of the cabinet (the part the speaker is mounted to) and sides swelled and separated from the rest of the cabinet. The sub powers up and the speaker appears undamaged. I love this sub and was sick when I discovered the damage. Is this something that can be repaired? Is it cost effective? Thank you in advance for any help and guidance.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2800, ext. 2851 or service@velodyne.com to see if they can find an extra cabinet.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I own a Velodyne F-1200. Still works excellent. I have a been told by a reputable audio company to invest in a second F-1200 if I can find one and run two, as oppossed to a single brand new unit. I am very happy with the one that I own. Just trying to increase the overall output of the newer audio sound tracks. What are the people at Velodyne's thoughts?

Hi,
I guess if the price was right, it would be a consideration. The downside is, it (the F-1200) was designed to play music in a small room. Because of it's limited output it doesn't really support most home theater systems very well. Currently we will still service the amplifiers but there are no drivers or driver service/parts available. My recommendation would be use it in a second music system or sell it and purchase the proper (new technology) subwoofer appropriate for your system. You are correct, the new sound tracks can really challenge a subwoofer, especially an older, low output one. Call me anytime for suggestions/options on a replacement.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

In regards to surface area displacement of air being moved. My question brings the point of air being moved as oppossed to wattage. Back in the day when I used build high end car audio. A customer would come in and want to upgrade his 400 watt 10" sub with a 1000 watt amplifier. He wanted to do this so the system would play louder. Back then we would steer them away from this idea and pitch adding an additional 10" sub would gain him the more needed volume. An X-inch sub will still move x-amount of air with not too much audible difference being heard by increasing wattage output. But, double the drivers would gain the more requested output (using good amplification). Is this idea / concept, extinct? As said, I am happy with the performance, but adding a second sub in theory would reduce the overall stress of one unit and split the difference and load between two?

Hi,
Your concept is right on. Here's the thing, a driver has a maximum excursion (XMAX) and whatever watts are required to push the driver to it's safe limit should already be in it's amplifier so adding more watts would be useless. However todays drivers have much more excursion than the older drivers, so with the additional required power, todays 12" woofers can play twice (or more) as loud as an older limited excursion driver. So you can accomplish the same thing (more or less) by doubling the excursion or adding a second subwoofer with the limited excursion of the original. If this doesn't make sense, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

A question about utilizing multiple subs:

I just had the good fortune to obtain a barely-used HGS-18 sub to massively augment my HT setup. I have been running a little CT-100 for years without any complaint, but the HGS is another beast entirely.

Would it be worthwhile to set this duo up as a pair, so the smaller sub can handle the higher tones? Is this even possible with the CT-100? Or would I have to fashion some kind of crossover between the two subs to prevent them from "stepping" on each other? I would be splitting the LFE out channel on my Onkyo 805 in order to send signal to both subs.

TIA,
-Pat

Hi,
IMO, there would be no advantage to using the CT-100 in conjunction with the HGS-18. I feel it would only create problems. For one thing they are totally different designs with different voices. You can certainly give it a try and see what you think. For me I'd prefer the 'one voice' of the HGS-18.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Couple of quick questions about sub placement (I'd written earlier but things have changed).

I have two sc/if subs that I was going to originally mount in the floor but can't due to spacing of the floor trusses so I have to go in ceiling.

I will be using them in a roughly 24x30 foot open space. The front half (24x15') will be the theater and the back half will be a bar/pool area. The ceilings are 10'. Where do you recommend I place the subs to maximize impact for the theater area, but still have reasonable bass in the bar.

How much do I have to worry about sound leaking through the attic?

One other question. I have a new denon receiver with Audessey. Is it better to use the audessey for set up or velodynes own mic setup system or both (I would like to be able to turn down the bass for night viewing)

Thanks

Paul

Hi,
First of all, two SC/IFs aren't near enough for your 7200 cubic feet. You'd need at least four. To maximize output, I would lean toward the two front corners of the H/T area. Properly mounted, there will be no leakage into the attic as the sound all comes out of the single box opening. Audessey recommends doing the Velodyne subwoofer EQ first, you could try it both ways and see which seems to perform better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

The RS-232 out ( pins 7 and 9 ) can activate a second subwoofer.

My question : Is it possible to activate with the trigger 12 volts of a outside amplifier one DD 15 ?

If yes what cable ? (I have e Pioneer SC-05).

Ivan222

Hi,
Sorry I don't understand your question. Pins 7 and 9 of the Out RS-232 jack are used as a 12V trigger to turn on/off the DD like a remote control would. It does not work for a second subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
Sorry I don't understand your question. Pins 7 and 9 of the Out RS-232 jack are used as a 12V trigger to turn on/off the DD like a remote control would. It does not work for a second subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanck you Curt for your quick answer, now it's clear for me:) .

Ivan222

I love everything about the SMS-1 (Velodyne EQ for subs) except for the fact that it doesn't seem to have a discrete on and off. For that alone it will likely come out of my rack. I use a universal remote and tried about every on/off descrete code I could find. Velodyne is there anything that can be done?

Hi,
I will try to get you an answer next week. I know some have figured it out, I just don't have the answer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Wow Curt great service for a Sunday. Much appreciated. In case manufacturers are wondering service does count. My Boston Acoustics flagship subwoofer PV1000 sits in the garabage which is the same place my thoughts of them are.

Thanks again.

Hi,
First of all, two SC/IFs aren't near enough for your 7200 cubic feet. You'd need at least four. To maximize output, I would lean toward the two front corners of the H/T area. Properly mounted, there will be no leakage into the attic as the sound all comes out of the single box opening. Audessey recommends doing the Velodyne subwoofer EQ first, you could try it both ways and see which seems to perform better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


Curt,

Thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately, I don't really have the budget to double my subs (I generally don't listen at reference levels so i'll probably be ok).

There will be a door in each of the front corner (it should remain closed when viewing), but will it make a difference and if so where else should I consider?

K

Hi,
If the doors are closed while listening, then no problem. Second choice for location would be each side of the seating area for the H/T.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

As stated in the headline.

Which setup, and why?

Or maybe two SPL-1000R's.

I'm torn between the setups. They will be replacing my B&W ASW675 (10" 500W) as I feel it's not keeping up with my new Monitor Audio GS60's.

The room is about 2600 qubicfeet, 270 squarefeet.

Any input?

Hi,
The SPL's are discontinued and to my knowledge, there are no SPL-12's left. There are some SPL-1000's still available. The replacement for the SPL series is the Optimum series. I would choose two Optimum's over a DD-12 for the additional output and reserve. If possible give me a call and we can go over the pros and cons of each possibility.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The SPL's are discontinued and to my knowledge, there are no SPL-12's left. There are some SPL-1000's still available. The replacement for the SPL series is the Optimum series. I would choose two Optimum's over a DD-12 for the additional output and reserve. If possible give me a call and we can go over the pros and cons of each possibility.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

One Optimum 12 (SPL Ultra in Europe) on its way to me as we speak. I will start with one and possibly add one more after testing this weekend.

Thank you for your input.

Sorry to hear that the SPLs are discontinued but I guess progress is good. I have 2 SPL1000Rs in a 3500 cubic foot dedicated hometheater (no openings). I use Def Tech 7006s, CLR 2300, and 4 BPXs. Would a single SMS-1 offer improvement to 2 SPLs in my system. I have the 2 SPLs running off the LFE of my Onkyo 805 receiver. Thanks.

curt c I'm trying to blend dd12 with small cube type speakers that I know want play lows,so I know that I will have to cross the sub fairly high,but my problem is the best location for my sub is in the corner of the room firing across the fronts instead of the same direction,so to make the sub less directional,would I benefit using a 36db lowpass slope vs 24db to keep from playing to high in the sub? thanks

Hi,
You don't indicate how high you're going to cross over. A 24db slope is already fairly steep but you can certainly try 36db and see what you think. There's really no downside to a steeper slope. BTW, the sub doesn't need to face the same direction as your speakers since it's omnidirectional.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Sorry to hear that the SPLs are discontinued but I guess progress is good. I have 2 SPL1000Rs in a 3500 cubic foot dedicated hometheater (no openings). I use Def Tech 7006s, CLR 2300, and 4 BPXs. Would a single SMS-1 offer improvement to 2 SPLs in my system. I have the 2 SPLs running off the LFE of my Onkyo 805 receiver. Thanks.

Hi,
In your case, the SMS-1 will provide the capability of EQ'ing both subs at once and providing remote control adjustments (volume, etc.) for both using the single remote of the SMS-1. IMO, it would be a very nice addition.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt My cubes are rated to 100,so should I cross at 100 or maybe 120 since I'm going to use the 36db slope.THANKS for your time and input.I'm really very new at this.

Hi,
If you're using a A/V receiver, then set the crossover in the receiver and I would recommend 120hz or higher. You would then bypass the sub's crossover. Call me Monday if you need help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt,Talk to you Monday

I just wanted to post back my thoughts about the Optimum 12 I got this friday.

It is really remarkable. I love it. After first calibrating it and then running the Audyssey calibration the sub integrates absolutely seemless with my Monitor Audio GS60's.

Upgrading from the B&W ASW-675, the Optimums soundfield does sound as if its really coming from the GS60's. The sound is impressively punchy for a 12" even at low volumes. And there does not seem to be a limit, volume wise. Hehe.

Thanks again Curt for the advice you gave me.

Hi Curt,

I use the hi-level speaker inputs on my stereo DD-18s, but the sensitivity is too high and I would like to attenuate the signal so that I am using the DD-18 in the 20-25 range. Currently I have the volume set at 3 which is a little too low, but 4 is also too heavy. By attenuating the signal, I'm hoping to get finer volume adjustment. As well, I am planning on changing to much less efficient mains and am worried I will not have enough adjustment flexibility on the DD-18 to make them blend correctly.

I asked a local designer to build a hi-level attenuator that I will insert between the amp and DD-18. I told him that the input impedance on the DD-18 is 470K ohms and based on that value, he built a fixed attenuator that would decrease the level by 10db. Unfortunately, this turns out to be too much attenuation. I have asked him to modify the level of attenuation, but rather than guessing, he would like me to confirm that 470K is indeed the input impedance and if Velodyne could recommend the level of attenuation that would be required so that the subs can work within the optimal range.

I appreciate any help in this matter.

Thanks!

Hi,
I will try to get you an answer ASAP.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com