Hi,
470K ohms for speaker level input is correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hey, Curt -- here's a question for you.

I'm in an apartment and considering a MiniVee instead of hauling in the behemoth I used through college. I notice the brochure for the MiniVee says it features something called "DDCS - Dynamic Driver Control System" - would this be similar to your 'current-sensing servo' technology featured on some older low-end subs (CHT-150, CT-150)? Or it more similar to the Distortion Limiting System on the DLS subwoofers? Or is it something else entirely?

(Edit -- I'm fully aware of the difference in performance between an 8" sealed sub with 1000W RMS and a 12" reflex sub at 500W RMS. Being in an apartment, I'm interested in quality over quantity.)

Hi,
How about a combination of the three systems, only better. In our many years of building servo (accelerometer based) feedback subwoofers, we to a large extent, knew what the feedback information would be and incorporated that information in designing a multi-stage amplifier for our small sealed box subwoofers which includes the MiniVee, SPL and Optimum series. This is why they are so musical, accurate and all round great performers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt. In order to get my DD12 to "'wake up" a bit easier, I bumped up the subwoofer channel volume in both my AVR and DVD player, which resulted in turning down my DD12's volume. For content in which my AVR does the final D-A conversion, my DD12 is set to '5'. For content in which my DVD player does the final D-A conversion, my DD12 is set to '3'.

I'm assuming these volumes, 5 and 3, are not too low for any reason?

Thanks.

Hi,
There is nothing wrong with '3' or '5' for a DD volume. You might experiment with lowering the other two a bit and raising the DD's volume. You should also find settings that will allow you to have the same volume for the DD (with either the DVD or AVR) and still have the auto-on function operate correctly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Right, I did set values so that I hear a relatively equal volume whether the DVD or AVR is doing final bass mgt.

If I turn my sub volumes down within the AVR and DVD, I am approaching levels at which my sub won't wake up. If you'd rather I not have the sub at 3 and 5, I may need to lower the AVR and DVD sub volumes, and just keep my sub on at all times (no auto mode).

Hi,
It appears you've been through the drills. I have no problem with 3 and 5, it's the performance that counts.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have the chance to p/u a hgs-18 from 1999 for 750.00. Does this seem reasonable? I currently have an fsr-15 that complements my AR9 towers nicely.
Would the 2 subs work well together or would their be problems that would make this pair incompatible. Thanks.

Hi,
If the unit is in good shape and can be delivered or shipped in one piece, the price seems good. I'd try the HGS-18 alone for starters. It will have considerably more output than the older technology FSR-15, so getting a good balance could be an issue. You can certainly try and see how they work together.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I have 2 HGS-10's and just picked up an SMS-1. Do you have any recommendations how to best set up everything? I have a Rotel RSX-1067, B&W 805's, HTM2, DS7 speakers. Any suggestions how to deal with the dual subs would be appreciated.

Hi,
There are no special recommendations. The SMS-1 will support one to three subs. You send the subwoofer feed from your receiver to the input of the SMS and the outputs of the SMS to your two subs. This is a product where you must read and understand the manual. Many find the SMS manual that Outlaw audio (outlawaudio.com) wrote easier to understand, so I would suggest you download that if you're having trouble following ours. If you need more help, please give me a call and I'll go through the hook-up and features with you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

Thank you for your response concerning the Hgs-18. I was wondering if Velodyne has any kind of a trade in program. I am the original owner of a Fsr-15 that was reworked by Velodyne (I live in the Sf bay area). I would love to have a DD-15 or DD-18 but the msrp is a little out of reach. Thanks.

Hi,
I am sorry, Velodyne does not have a trade-in program.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Greetings from Norway here :p

I have a problem with my CHT-12, it have been working very good for over a year now. But suddenly a weird sound comes out of it.

Couple of times per minute there is a sound that could remind of interference or something. Or maybe even morse code :p it goes something like this: "Dutt dididduut duutt duut diidddutt" :rolleyes:

Heh, sounds a bit weird. But its very annoying, the sub works perfectly in every other way. And the sound also comes when the sub not is connected to the receiver, so that just make me think something have happend to the sub.. lightning ? :S :S

Ive checked connections and everything should be working. The sub have been out of use for 1-2 months but nothing have been touched either on the receiver or sub to make this sound appear... :(

So, anyone have any clues ?

I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

codex83, Curt may have answered your question w/ his PM, but my sub will do that, and so will my car stereo... when I have my cell phone too close! It drove me crazy finding the solution, and I didn't realize they were related. I even had my band new DD12 replaced when I first bought it from an independent dealer a little more than 3 years ago. Keep it in mind. Still, if I have my cell in my pocket, and walk by my DD12, it gives me the morse code.

Thanks for the input. I have never heard this before. Good info.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, I wrote yesteday that I had to settle w/ my sub volume at "3" in order to have some decent gain on my DVD player's subwoofer channel to wake my sleeping DD12. Of course the player's channels must be leveled w/ the AVR in EXT IN.

Then I remembered the 15dB gain applied by my AVR to EXT IN. So I dropped that to 0dB, and now am able to give my player's output something meaningful to wake my sleeping sub, and the sub's volume, leveled w/ my mains, is about approx 10.

I don't think it should matter where in the audio chain that 15db boost is being applied, just as long as it's accounted for. All audio played via EXT IN has wonderful low frequency sound.

You are right and the current set up is more in the 'normal' range.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

So, I was wondering something. 2 DD-10s = the output of 1 DD-12. 2 DD-12s = the output of 1 DD-15. 2 DD-15s = the output of 1 DD-18.

So, what does 2 DD-18s equal?

Usually enough, and highly recommended!!
Curt (928) 858-4430

Usually enough, and highly recommended!!
Curt (928) 858-4430

Do you mean usually enough to fill any room? Are you saying that 2 DD-18s are highly recommended?

Two DD-18's are good for up to about 6K-8K cubic feet and certainly recommended. I use a pair of eighteens.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Can you set a Sms-1 on top of a subwoofer? Or bad idea?

Hey Curt. Recently set my dd12's auto on/off mode to INACTIVE. Came to my room after about an hour break, sub's light was still on. Expected. Put some music on a low volume setting, and no sub output. I turned up the AVR's volume, quite a bit, and the sub popped and started outputting. Put the volume back to the low setting, and the sub continued to output. Note, am playing organ music - certainly low-passed info here.

This is the exact same behavior as when I had the auto on/off mode set to ACTIVE.

What changes when you change this setting to INACTIVE. I'd like my sub to output low-passed material ALL the time, regardless of how low I have AVR's volume. How can this be done?

Can you set a Sms-1 on top of a subwoofer? Or bad idea?

Hi,
Should be no problem.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks. I was just wondering because of the subwoofer magnet not the vibration. My last resort if i can't find room. I plan on ordering one.

I have seen a number of places recently with a $100 dollar price drop on the SMS-1. One dealer said there were limited quantities available. Is the SMS-1 being phased out or replaced with a newer model?

thanks and regards,

Dennis

Dennis,
There is a 'promotional special' thru February 28th at some dealers, on the SMS-1. The SMS-1 is not discontinued nor is there a replacement. This is a unique opportunity to get the best available all-in-one, bass management tool at a great price. Happy belated Christmas from Velodyne and let's get this economy going!
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

shhh i don't want them to run out before I get mine ;)

Curt, I have a room whit 3100 cubic feet, if enough whit one DLS-4000R or go whit one DLS-5000R? My setup is: Polk Audio RTiA3 fronts, CSiA4 center, RTiA1 rears, Tannoy TS12 subwoofer (to be replaced) and Onkyo TX-SR876 AVR.

Thanks

Hi,
If there are no permanent openings into other rooms or areas, the DLS-4000R will do a good job. I would however, recommend the DLS-5000R for the additional reserve. Many of the new sound tracks put a heavy demand on the subwoofer and 'bigger is better'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
I just received my Impact 10 yesterday (my first sub for my HT) and have a few questions as I am a beginner and want to optimize my HT performance.

1) My settings thus far, based on reading these forums, are: The sub crossover is set at the max. The crossover from the receiver is set at 80hz for the mains, center, and surrounds. I have the speakers set at small. Is this correct?
2) On controlling the volume, should I set the knob on the sub (which is now set at 6) and then just use the sub volume control from the receiver? I have no sound meter and when I use the test tones, it is difficult to determine how loud the sub should be.
3) The sub is connected via a sub cable into a y adapter. Is this optimal or should it be connected through the left and right speakers?

Sorry for the long post. Thanks so much.
Rob

Hi,
1) Correct.
2) Raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver to near maximum. Keep the sub's volume well below half way. Make small volume changes on the sub. The sub should sound balanced with your speakers. Your ears are your best meter.
3) You have it right, do not use speaker connection.
If you have more questions or need help, please call me Monday.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thank you Curt. I am going to enjoy it now.
Rob

Today I demo'd some subs and here are the ones I tested from one shop:

DSP3100

Ultracube10

Supercube3

for compact out of these three w/ the most punch I really liked the Ultracube 10, but for price of 900.00---> Gulp

The DSP3100 was the most boomy sub, but louder, just not musical..... so I left that shop.

Then this evening I headed out to my local frys, and we know how the frys showcase of subs are just in a huge a%% room!

So I head the little Velodyne MinVee 8--------------> damn I was stunned! For the size and price, that is one great sub. I really, really liked it. It really sounded good, but did seem to work pretty hard to fill the 40x40 room (lol). Either way, I might have to push off the fence and get that sucker!!

Great job to the guys @ Velodyne for making a nice sounding compact sub with a hard hit to it!

Thanks. I sent you a PM with some additional suggestions.

Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I currently have the Velodyne CT120 and am wondering if the DLS4000r is an upgrade at all? I have a buddy who has one brand new he wants to off and was just wondering if I would any if at all improvement? Thanks

Yes it would be an upgrade. A newer amp and driver design and DSP functions with a remote control.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

Could you please clarify the warrant policy? In the manual, the following is stated:

VELODYNE ACOUSTICS, Inc. (“VELODYNE”) warrants all electronics and powered subwoofers for a period of two
years and full range speakers for a period of five years.

When I look in the specs, I see this:

Warranty(parts/labor) Three years (electronics)
Five years (drivers)

Is the warranty for electronics 2 years or 3 years?

Yes it would be an upgrade. A newer amp and driver design and DSP functions with a remote control.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I got your PM.... thanks for the reply... I have always been wondering.... what is optimal settings for the CT120? Thanks.... you and the company you work for are freaking awesome!!!

Curt,

Could you please clarify the warrant policy? In the manual, the following is stated:

VELODYNE ACOUSTICS, Inc. (“VELODYNE”) warrants all electronics and powered subwoofers for a period of two
years and full range speakers for a period of five years.

When I look in the specs, I see this:

Warranty(parts/labor) Three years (electronics)
Five years (drivers)

Is the warranty for electronics 2 years or 3 years?


Hi,
We haven't made full range speakers in years. When we did, the warranty was 5 years.
Regarding subwoofers; prior to January 1st, 2008, the warranty was 2 years on the electronics and woofer. Subwoofers sold January 1st, 2008 and after, the electronics are warranted for 3 years and the woofer for 5 years.
Sorry for the confusion and I hope this helps.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I had a consistent hum in my Velodyne F1000 sub when my receiver was off. I tried everything to solve problem (even talked to curt c) but the last thing I tried worked. I replaced a cheap ass Radio Shack cable from the receiver to my sub with a RG59 shielded cable. Problem solved and lesson learned don't buy cheap ass Radio Shack cables!

Hi,
Interconnect cables, over time can go bad. Radio Shack's cables are shielded and I have used them many times without a problem. In fact the only cables I've ever had problems with were expensive ones with poor connections. Good to hear you're up and working again.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt would there be a difference in audio quality/ speaker performance between RG59 vs RG6 cable for a 35 foot run?

Hi,
I am not familiar with RG-59. If it's standard coax cable, there should be no problem. In the 'old days' coax was used as audio interconnnect and does have very good shielding. It's tricky soldering on 'rca' connectors so most people install the 'F' connector and then a 'rca' adapter. It works out fine.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I wanted to buy this cable, split it in half and use only one cable.http://http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021803&p_id=2867&seq=1&format=2 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021803&p_id=2867&seq=1&format=2).

I am worried about cable thickness between the above cable and RG6 http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=3976&seq=1&format=2 I have to run it under an existing baseboard that's tight against the floor.

I would check with the wire company and see what they suggest. You want something that will pass an audio line level signal, is shielded and has an impedance in the 75-100 ohm range.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I wanted to buy this cable, split it in half and use only one cable.http://http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021803&p_id=2867&seq=1&format=2 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021803&p_id=2867&seq=1&format=2).

I am worried about cable thickness between the above cable and RG6 http://http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=3976 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=3976). I have to run it under an existing baseboard that's tight against the floor.

curt I fixed the links. Can you give me an opinion?

There's no reason either shouldn't work fine, but you complained about cheap-ass R/S cables, and now you're looking at even cheaper ones. Were it me, I'd go with the second mono cable, but that's just my opinion.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

There's no reason either shouldn't work fine, but you complained about cheap-ass R/S cables, and now you're looking at even cheaper ones. Were it me, I'd go with the second mono cable, but that's just my opinion.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

That's what I wanted your opinion. Thanks

These are the cables in question http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102964.

Check out the one review.....that is the exact problem I had!!!!

I should have read this review before I picked up these "cheap ass" cables.

That's what I wanted your opinion. Thanks

Looks like a good (long cable run) solution. At the end of the cable, use a 'Y' splitter into both sub's input jacks. The sub you have, especially needs it.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a CT-100. Does Velodyne sell replacement speakers for this unit?

If not, where could I find the specs of the speaker? So that I can shop for a replacement.

Hi,
There are replacement speakers available. Please contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, thanks for the advice, but I put today and order in Amazon for a Velodyne SMS-1 (399$ shipped). Whit this I have the BEST of Velodyne in my Tannoy TS12 subwoofer. My sub has 500 watts BASH amplifier, the same amplifier of SVS subs and this particular model of Tannoy sub sound AMAZING and accurate in my room.

BTW, I plain to use the SMS-1 whit my new Onkyo TX-SR876 AVR, in this case, I need to run first the SMS-1 and second the Audyssey?.

Thanks

Enrico Castagnetti

Hi,
While there is not universal agreement on which to do first, Audyssey recommends doing the SMS-1 (or DD) first and then running the Audyssey set-up.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi, I been asking for help for my subwoofer. I need parts and schematic if it is possible.
First case: FSR-12 serial 57127019.
I need the Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 8200uF 50V. Where to buy it or if there is a replacement. The schematic please.
Second: FSR-15 RME serial 58113015
motherboard Remote 55-0022 Rev 1 and Remote 84-002 Rev 2. This i will included a photo of the part.
I am locate in Santiago, Chile, and there is no Velodyne service.

I hope Velodyne give some support for their products, at least where to buy parts that blew up.

Best Regards

Carlos Mahns

These email I'll send it different departments, Because I tried other ways with no answer from Velodyne.

I have a Velodyne F1000 sub and in my old setup it was plugged into a switched outlet on my receiver so when I turned off my receiver the sub would also turn off. My new setup/receiver doesn't have a switched outlet in the back and also my sub is at the other end the room so I have to plug my sub into a different wall outlet and have to turn it on separately.

My question.... when I am not using my setup would it be wise to turn off my sub or should I just leave it on. Will leaving the sub on shorten its life span or damage it in any way?

Hi,
There really is no definitive answer. Normally we recommend turning subwoofers off when not in use. Some engineers believe an amplifier is better off in a steady state (always on) condition. It shouldn't really put additional wear by having it on but it will draw power and your sub is quite old. If you leave it on be sure to turn it off when leaving for a few days or so.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Chalito,
I sent you a PM with proper contact information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a question... so what is the "optimal" placement for a Velodyne sub... since they are (most) front firing and slot ported... how should it be orientated? Any pics?

Hi,
There is no optimum (genertic) recommended placement. Normally for maximum output, or if the subwoofer is too small for the area, in or near a corner is best. Subs need boundaries so in a corner or against a wall is necessary. The exception is 'near field' placement where you place the sub very close to listening position. As to orientation, I would have if facing out into the room or toward the listening position, or whatever looks best. If this isn't clear, please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am going to reboot into Windows draw you a layout of my room in my temporary living situation and see if you agree with where I have it... or your suggestion... and then we will discuss if I should call... I would love to optimize it while I am here

Hi,
There is no optimum (genertic) recommended placement. Normally for maximum output, or if the subwoofer is too small for the area, in or near a corner is best. Subs need boundaries so in a corner or against a wall is necessary. The exception is 'near field' placement where you place the sub very close to listening position. As to orientation, I would have if facing out into the room or toward the listening position, or whatever looks best. If this isn't clear, please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt... Thanks for taking the time to talk to me today... you are a man of infinite wisdom. I ended up trying the sub all over the room and got the most "impact" by keeping it in the same location as you saw but imaging it off the cavity in the computer desk. Like I mentioned about the SuperCube I, I drove to Chandler today and listened to it... the guy didn't really want to crank it too much for me... but it was pretty much what I expected... I am still curious about listening to the SPL-1000R or better yet the SPL-1200R... I probably won't make any decisions until I can get into my "permanent" location so I can see if this Velodyne I have now doesn't meet my needs.

Hi Curt,

I have a SMS-1 and it has stopped outputing a signal twice since I purchased it a few months ago. Do you know what the problem is?

I leave it turned on from the switch at the front but turn it off via the remote when not in use.

The first time it occured I turned the SMS-1 off by the front panel switch and then turned it back on. This caused the singal output from the SMS-1 to start working again.

The second time I just used the remote to switch from program 1 to 3 which also caused the signal from the SMS-1 to start working again.

Hi,
I would start with a software reset (you will erase your settings) by pressing 8-9-0 on the remote. Also, make sure the unit has plenty of input by raising the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver or pre/pro. If this doesn't work, please contact Velodyne service/repair at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

jvcjbl,
Very nice talking to you too, and I appreciate the phone calls.
Good Luck,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I would start with a software reset (you will erase your settings) by pressing 8-9-0 on the remote. Also, make sure the unit has plenty of input by raising the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver or pre/pro. If this doesn't work, please contact Velodyne service/repair at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt, I will try the reset and see how that works. Funny thing is that after I turned the SMS-1 off/on from the front switch when the problem first occurred I did not encounter the same problem again until after about 2 months.

I believe that I am feeding the SMS-1 a good signal from my Lexicon 12B preamp. In the Lex, the sub output is set at its default level of 0 (my other channels are at about the same level +-1). I have the volume on my Velodyne HGS-15 set at just under 9 o'clock.

Hello,

I am new to this form and have a question on the Velodyne Servo F Series, specifically the sf15bvr10 model.

Background:
I purchased this sub from a good friend of mine for 300 bucks. I twas manufactured back in 1995. He assured me it worked fine but he hadn't used it for a couple years due to him moving into a new house.

Question:
I do not believe I am over exterting this sub but after about 10 or so minutes of play time the amp cuts off and will not come back on. Once I turn the sub off and then back on, the amp kicks back in, but will only stay on for about 10 minutes. If a barely draw much power it will stay on longer. Does anyone know what may be the problem? If it is the amp can I get it repaired? I know they discontinued the model and I've read that Velodyne refused to fix discontinued items. If this is the case how easy would it be for me to hook up an external amp? What would be the cost? Would it be worth it? Thank you so much in advance for your time and I appreciate your response.

Ryan

Hi,
Dispite being a 15" sub the F series were not loud players and much better suited to music in a small room than H/T. The unit is going into thermal protection to avoid damage. I would need a lot more info but I'll assume you have it hooked up to a A/V receiver so do the following.
1) Raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver to three fourths of the way up.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
3) Keep the sub's volume well below half way, around 10 O'clock is good.
4) Place the sub in or near a corner away from any openings into other rooms.
If your room is fairly large or opens into other rooms, this sub is not a good choice for H/T.
If the unit continues to shut down you can send the amplifier to Velodyne service for repair. They can be reached at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

My trusty Velodyne HGS-18 (purchased April 2000) possibly has developed a problem.

It will make a "thupping" noise almost like a helicopter noise when powered up. Maybe once per second for a while, then it will quit for a few seconds, thup a couple of times, then stop and start at random.

I shut the main power off and disconnected the line in to make sure it was not coming from my processor, but it kept on going when turned back on.

It seems to still work, it just "thups". This noise is loud enough that I can hear it plainly at the top of the basement stairs and the sub is in the basement. I have not tried to turn up or down the volume yet to see if that makes a difference.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

Tomorrow, contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, thank you very much for your response. I will call you later this afternoon.

I have the following problems / questions regarding my DD-15:

1. I try update to the latest 2.2.2 software but, although the update procedure finishes successfully (I get the ‘’completed…’’ message), the version mentioned on the screen of the DD-15 (connected to an AV) mentions 2.2.0 (and not 2.2.2).

The strange thing is that 2.2.0 is also mentioned in the PDF which comes along with the software package (although the file itself and Velodyne’s web page mention 2.2.2).

According to the same pdf during the update the amber / blue Velo logo should blink and then the sub should reset itself. But none of this happens in my case. The logo stays amber and I have to shutdown and restart the sub myself.

I don’t know if this is connected with the above mentioned question.

Please note that, if I remember correctly, my sub came with a software ver older than 2.2.0 (so I think that the update seems to be working – but only to ver 2.2.0 and not 2.2.2). But I repeat that I am not 100% sure about that.

2. After a power failure (during standby/off mode) I see that the sub is reset (at least that volume values which I checked).

Is this normal?

Thanks in advance (and sorry if what I am asking has been already discussed)

Hi,
1) I sent you a couple of PMs. I verified the download file from Velodyne is 2.2.2, which you also received as a file. Your DD screen is showing 2.2 so that is what's currently in your DD. You did not download 2.2, it was already there. The problem is probably with your cable. If you are using a RS-232 cable then it must be a pin-for-pin or straight-thru cable. A more common modem cable will not work. If you are using an adapter (USB) cable then you may have to try different ports or disconnect anything else hooked to a USB input. If you do not get a flashing blue light, then the download is not happening.
2) Your settings will be held in memory during a power off or power failure time.
I will be available for phone calls on Monday or PM me in the meantime.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the quick response and pm!

By using the wrong cable, is it normal the progress bar to go normally and the update utility to report ‘’successful upgrading….’’ while actually nothing is happening?

I also suppose that the pdf coming with the file says by mistake 2.2.0.

Hi,
As far as I know, yes to both. If the blue light is not blinking, then the DD is not receiving.
Curt (928) 858-440 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt, I have a SMS-1 on order. So I need a m/f DB9 pin serial cable wired straight thru to do the update? If I use a USB adapter then I may have to make changes to the settings? I just want to make sure I order the correct cable. Any suggested sources you can p/m me? Thanks.

Hi,
Yes you need a straight thru 9 pin serial cable. Radio Shack among others has them. I was able to use a Radio Shack USB/serial adapter cable to do the update.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

What is the different between a impact 12 and 4000r? Will the 4000r all the way better in performance as I can live without the remote. I normally will not use the sub while listening to CD. I enjoy clean, but not blooming bass or people say "can feel the bass".
My family room where the HT located is about 3200 cu ft and with one about two door size openning.

Thanks

Dennis

Hi,
The Impact 12 is too small for your room. The DLS-4000R will provide better performance in every way with it's superior amp and driver. I would also consider the DLS-5000R for optimum performance since much of the bass will be lost via the two door size opening.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

what does the description in low pass crossover 12db/48db optimum mean?

Hi,
It's referred to as a 'cascade' design. At crossover frequency setting, the slope is 12 db for less phase shift. At near an octave out (above) another 36db of cut is added, making the total slope 48db.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello Curt,

This is my first post in this thread. I am shopping around for a subwoofer, for an AT 8200e 7.1 speaker system. I prefer sealed, acoustic suspension enclosure, for its clean transparent bass response. Home theater oom is 3,500 cu. ft., carpet floor and acoustically treated walls. It will be mostly used for movies. I have heard and read great reviews about Velodyne's quality products, but I am not really familiar with the product offerings.

I recently read on another forum about a user having an Optimum 10 with a similar AT speaker set.

I will be awaiting your comments.

Thanks,
Bill

Hi,
Assuming there are no permanent openings into other rooms, I would look at the DD-15 or DD-18 for maximum performance. In the Optimum series the new Optimum-12 should do quite well.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, room has no permanent openings into other rooms. I will take a look at those options you mentioned.
Regards,
Bill

Hi,
You set the receiver's volume for the sub channel to wherever there is adequate output from the sub set at 9 or 10 o'clock. That will likely be somewhere in the plus range. All this should be done manually using your ears after any automated set up is run.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
You set the receiver's volume for the sub channel to wherever there is adequate output from the sub set at 9 or 10 o'clock. That will likely be somewhere in the plus range. All this should be done manually using your ears after any automated set up is run.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks curt...my post got lost somehow.

What do you thing about the rumbling?


When I set the sub volume any higher than 0dB in the receiver speaker setup the sub rumbles (the higher the volume the louder the rumble). When I do set the sub volume between 0dB to 9dB and turn the speaker setup off the sub stops rumbling and the sub plays fine. Is that normal?

Hi,
I have no idea. Set the two volumes (receiver and sub) to where they work together, keeping the subs volume low.
If you can't, call me Monday.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Anyone know if it's possible to just purchase the board on the inside that the RCA jacks and volume knobs are connected to?

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service/repair at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for an answer to your question.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I just got a DPS-12 which I like very much.

Is there a way to turn off the blue led's when in use? They put out so much light that in movies dark scenes they light up the room.

Thanks

Hi,
Press volume up and down buttons simultaneously to deactivate the front panel lights. To reactivate press them again. See manual, page 5.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks!

Chris...........

I presently have a DD-18 which is driven by an Integra DHC-9.9 AV processor. I prefer to leave the DD-18 Low Pass filter OFF and have the 9.9 manage the system.
After running Audyssey the 9.9 programs all channels to Full range, except the Rear Surrounds are set to 130Hz. I reset all the channels to about 80Hz, except the Rear Surrounds are kept at 130Hz.

My question is: Can the DD-18 deal with the rerouted 130Hz (and below) from the Rear Surround channels or is that a detriment, and how much low frequency content is really in those channels?

If possible I prefer minimize cascade Low Pass filtering.

Thanks for your thoughts.:)

I just received my two Velodyne SMS-1 units, purchased through Outlaw Audio's recent sale. I have only unpacked them but will go through the manual (and Outlaw's manual) today. I intend to use them as a stereo pair to control my two AV123 MFW-15 subwoofers. The rest of my system is: Hsu Research High-End electronic crossover@91Hz, ACI Sapphire XL speakers and Outlaw Audio monoblocks. Any hint from the experts will be appreciated.

Hi,
Just follow the manuals. Since you're going with stereo subs, you will set them up one at a time, first the left channel alone and then the right channel alone. If you run into issues, give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

jrannison,
The DD-18 will be able to handle all your bass (including the surrounds) in the bypass mode.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Turned up my F1000 the other night to 0db and watched The Dark Knight. That is easily the highest volume I have ever used and the sub was really struggling. It was also making intermittent popping noises. UGH. I think the old girl has seen better days.

As I've said many times, the F-1000 was designed for music in a small room. It was conceived long before H/T and it's getting worn out too. The intermittent pops were attempts to protect itself from total destruction. If you haven't already, it's a good time to go to the website and under 'which product' do the 'sizing wizard' exercise to see what sub you need.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for all your help curt

You're welcome and feel free to call me anytime for sub selections and options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt:

What is the weight of the amp in the DPS 12? I need to ship it to Velodyne for repair and need to print up a ups label. Thanks.

Mike

Hi,
Sorry I do not have that information, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2800, ext. 2848.
Curt (928) 858-4430 0r curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt. It's 6 pounds with a value of $300...How do you get this thing out? Removed the 12 screws around the perimeter. Won't budge..

Hi,
Carefully with a thin flat blade screwdriver. I rarely remove amps and have never had a problem. Just be patient and work the screwdriver around the amp's edge to get it started.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a Mirage BPS-400, about 8-10 years old. I have recently upgraded many components and am wondering if a Velodyne DD-15 or DD-18 would provide a significant increase in quality. Could I be better off adding a SMS-1 to the system? Finally, the Digital Drive systems have been out for about about five or six years now. Are there any replacements or new models anticipated/planned in the near future (year or so)? thanks for any replies.

Hi,
Since I have never owned your subwoofer, I can't speak to it's performance. The DD's and SMS have 'state of the art' bass management tools. Most all rooms can benefit by digital equlization which your current subwoofer does not have and of course the DDs have the Velodyne servo technology which provides the lowest distortion and most accurate bass available. There will be a DD replacement sometime in the future but I have no information when.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi curt...


my sms-1 is version 2.1...

just wondering what benefits i would realize by running updates?

thanks

Hi,
In my opinion, none. It lowers the subsonic filter settings down to the 5hz arena and addressed a possible input overload issue which I have never noticed. I could hear no difference with the SMS-1 feeding two HGS-18s.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt, I am integrating some new mono's (mc 1201's) and a set of B&W N800's. I am going to run the speakers on the 4ohm tabs on the mc's. I am using (2) DD-15's and HT is through a SC-09. My question is what would you recommend for hz settings from the SC-09 so the subs can do some work as well in 2 channel. Any info would be greatly appreciated....Thanks

Hi,
I am not familiar with your equipment or exactly what you want to do. I suggest you call me on Tuesday (Monday is Presidents day-holiday) and I'll be happy to discuss recommendations with you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I will give you a call on Tuesday, thank you very much Curt.

curt, i currently have the VX10 which i've had for 2 years now and i have totaly enjoyed it. lately i've become a concert DVD fanatic and was wondering which sub you would recommend for music listening. thanks

Hi,
I need a lot more information. I suggest you go to www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and 'sizing wizard' and do the room or rooms cubic feet calculation. You will then get an idea of what Velodyne recommends. As to demands on the subwoofer, DVD concerts are often more like home theater, then regular music. We make many subwoofers because there is no single answer. Total cubic footage, type of software, loudness levels, and budget all come into play as well as size of subwoofer in some cases. Once I have the above info, I can certainly offer some recommendations.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

well the living room is 20x20 with opening into dining room. the VX10 is good but i'm thinking i can do much better.

Hi,
I need information to all the issues I brought up, especially budget. As an example the best solution (if budget is not an issue) would be a DD-18. A less expensive solution would be a DLS-5000R or DEQ-15R. You are currently way undersubbed. You indeed can do much better!
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks curt, i just noticed your PM and i will call you.

That works.
Curt (928) 858-4430

hi,
what is the purpose of the subsonic filter on the hgs-12? i am using this particular sub for my ht setup

The subsonic fiter will determine how low in frequency, the subwoofer is allowed to play.
For playing movies with the HGS-12, I recommend the 35hz setting. This will protect the subwoofer and allow it to play louder. This was also the THX recommendation at the time this sub was manufactured.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

The subsonic fiter will determine how low in frequency, the subwoofer is allowed to play.
For playing movies with the HGS-12, I recommend the 35hz setting. This will protect the subwoofer and allow it to play louder. This was also the THX recommendation at the time this sub was manufactured.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

thank you so much!!!!! i intend to try this tonight!!!!! go velodyne!!!!!!

That happens to any speakers. Just take your cell phone away from any speakers. From my experience, as long as a few feet away, it will stop doing that.


codex83, Curt may have answered your question w/ his PM, but my sub will do that, and so will my car stereo... when I have my cell phone too close! It drove me crazy finding the solution, and I didn't realize they were related. I even had my band new DD12 replaced when I first bought it from an independent dealer a little more than 3 years ago. Keep it in mind. Still, if I have my cell in my pocket, and walk by my DD12, it gives me the morse code.

I have SPL-800R.

Does Optimum-8 give me a lot improvement in terms of sound? Or it is minimum?

I know having display in front is great because I don't have to count LED blinking.

I knew there was a reason I rarely use a cell phone. Thanks for the feedback.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have SPL-800R.

Does Optimum-8 give me a lot improvement in terms of sound? Or it is minimum?

I know having display in front is great because I don't have to count LED blinking.

Hi,
It all depends on the meaning of 'a lot'. The new Optimum line with a longer throw driver and increased power certainly provides more output, somewhere in the 3-4db area. I would highly recommend the Optimum-10 for a 'lot more' improvement.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks.

I don't need any more output. I live in a condo.

What if I want even cleaner and richer sound(lower distortion)? Or optimum-8 will give me pretty much same sound??

--Yui


Hi,
It all depends on the meaning of 'a lot'. The new Optimum line with a longer throw driver and increased power certainly provides more output, somewhere in the 3-4db area. I would highly recommend the Optimum-10 for a 'lot more' improvement.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

IMHO, the SPLs had very accurate musical sound with very low (inaudible) distortion so I would hesitate to say you would hear any difference in that regard. I will say the Optimum series are my favorite (non servo) small speaker, bar none. Kudos to our software guru and President Bruce Hall and our engineering team headed by Chris Hagen. If you get a chance, try to demo the Optimum and yes the new cabinet design and front panel readout are great, a very cool product. And no price increase over the replaced SPL-R series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi all,

Have played with the DLS 5000r for two weeks and really happy about it's performance.

After location, location, location and listening, listening, listening, I come to adjust the phase of the sub. I have already done the speaker set up, increased the sub leval to 3/4 but disable all the EQ in the receiver and let it flat. After that, it seems to be the best to my audio perference.
Would like to seek you guys' advice what will I get after I set the phase right of my sub. Will it goes ? louder, deeper or the other way better.
Please give me some input so that I have some idea before playing with the phase setting.

Thanks


Dennis

Dennis,
Usually '0' phase is correct. If another position is louder, that is the correct one. If they all sound the same, which is usually the case, then go with '0'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I just purchased a SMS-1 from Outlaw. I haven't had a chance to set it up yet. Shouldn't it have the latest software so I don't have to update it? Thanks.

Hi,
It probably does. Once you hook the video up, you'll know for sure.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am new to setting up a home theater and am trying to buy within a very tight budget. Currently the equipment consists of the following

Yamaha htr-5960 set as 7.1

Xbox 360 with hd dvd digitally connected to the reciever and direct hdmi to the Panasonic Plasma th42phd8

Dish network 300 s video to the reciever component to plasma

Samsung dvd/vcr player digital audio connected, and component video to reciever and then component to the plasma

Various other older game consoles connected via component to the reciever then to the plasma all running Stereo audio.

Sony Minidisk both rack unit and portable. Connected via digital to the reciever.

All the components are wired using the best budget cables not 100 dollars per cable but not .50 cents each either.

Control is accomplished using a universal remote mx-800.

The real issue is I am starting to look at speakers for this unit. I am currently using seven JBL control 1 speakers without a sub. SO as you can see this is where I need the majority of help. What should I be looking for in the Sub as the majority of use is from my wife watching Surround DVDs and Xbox play. I realize the control 1's are not the best speakers out there but I had 7 matching so figured it was better than mixing and matching to various different brands.

The total room size is ~1500 cubic ft. The velodyne cht-10 that i am looking at was manufactured in 2001 which is the part that concerns me. I have read that over time sometimes this sub breaks down from the inside out. Also I have a concern that I am seeing a large number of remanufactured CHT series subs for sale which seem to be dated around 2007 and selling for ~230 with warranty. My question is it worth the risk to purchase this 2001 non-remanufactured for 150? Please reference the attached three images.

Any advice on the above system would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Fred Hicks

Hi,
I really can't give recommendations on used products. The unit in the pictures looks very used so it would not be something I would pursue. The CTs and CHTs were good reliable subwoofers, however they are older. A subwoofer generally is the hardest working component in a system. I have never heard of remanufactured CHTs. You should also consider a (new) VX-10 or Impact-10, often found in the same price range.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have experience playing with a Impact-12 for a while and it is very good value for price. When you set the sub right, I agree the bigger the better. I also agree with Curt that sub is a very important component of HT system. You will smile with a good sub.

It is indeed the SMILE maker.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am looking for either a dd15, or dd18. I am ok for space, and want whichever is more musical. For anyone that has spent time with both, is the 18 better in all areas? or just some. Any thoughts about the merits of both would be greatly appreciated. I have no plans to ever run 2 subs, and want this to be a 1 time purchase.

They are both extremly accurate and musical. The DD-18 can go lower and play louder, if needed. If the room is large or opens into other rooms, the DD-18 is the way to go.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c did you say the latest software version of dd12 is 2.2.0 or 2.2.2 and what is the main difference between the two?

Hi,
The latest is 2.2.2. As I recall, the latest update addressed a command issue with Crestron remotes. There would be no performance difference from 2.2.0. As always the latest software issue is at the website under 'support' and available for download at no charge.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
I hate to appear like a dummie, but I just unpacked SMS-1 to set it up. How do you set up the mic stand? The top of the stand out of the box does not fit the mic, it is too small. The other adapter does fit the mic but I can't get the top of the mic stand off the stand to fit the new adapter on. Help...thanks.:confused:

"Hi Curt,
I hate to appear like a dummie, but I just unpacked SMS-1 to set it up. How do you set up the mic stand? The top of the stand out of the box does not fit the mic, it is too small. The other adapter does fit the mic but I can't get the top of the mic stand off the stand to fit the new adapter on. Help...thanks."


The microphone does fit the stand, you just have to use a little force! I thought the same thing when I first tried to set it up.

Most of us are just a little hesitant to push as hard as needed, but it will fit!

Mike

You are totally correct! Thanks. I was afraid that I would break the stand but with a little effort it slid in.

Hi;

Just set up a DLS-4000R. After running Audyssey with the crossover on direct and volume on 27 the sub was set to -7 on the receiver. I adjusted it to 10 and turned down the volume on the sub. My mains are set with a crossover of 80hz and the center is at 100hz. Should the sub crossover switch be set to 80hz or 100hz? I appreciate any help - thanks

Hi,
The low-pass crossover in your sub should be set to the 'direct' position. Your receiver is doing the crossover and will route the bass from your mains and center to the subwoofer. In your receiver, set the subwoofer's crossover to 80hz if choices are available. You will not be using the sub's high-pass crossover, which is a switch with 80 and 100hz settings. That switch is associated with the output 'rca' jacks and would normally be used for a two channel stereo application. Those two jacks should be vacant in your installation. It does not matter which position that switch is in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I own a Paradigm Servo 15 v2, and an SMS-1 and am happy with both. (I wanted a DD15 or 18, but couldn't afford the disparity in price compared to the Canadian made Servo 15.)

Anyway, now with a new product set to appear on the scene, I'd like to know how you feel it stacks up and compares to the SMS-1? I am speaking of the SVS AS-EQ1 soon to be available. See this link: http://www.svsound.com/products-parts-subeq.cfm#

I realize you may not be able to comment much on a unit which is not a reality yet, but there must be something known about the competition which might be enlightening as to how it compares?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,
Truth is, I know nothing about the mentioned product.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All, hope I can get some help. I have an old HGS15 which has stopped working, and it looks like the amp. I was wondering if I could get some advice on how to get it repaired. I have one slight problem though. I'm in the UK, and I don't believe there are any service centres here. Any suggestions?

Nick

Hi,
Please contact our distributor in the UK, they should be able to help with your repair.

REDLINE LTD. Tel. 44 1268 858222
Contact: Martin Morecroft martin@red-line.co.uk

If you have any problem, please send me a PM.

Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I was expecting to come back in days, not minutes. Thats fantastic, thanks, curt!

Nick

I have then running off an NAD T765 AVR that has 2 sub outs. Both subs are set identical, the NAD setting is all speakers set to small @ 80hz. One sub will turn on as soon as it gets the signal, the other sub has a delay turn on, which can take awhile. I even ran both off of a single sub out via a Y cable (thinking maybe the one sub out wasn't operating properly) with the same results.

I did notice that on bass heavy music & movies that they both respond immediately to the signal. I had a Nora Jones CD playing (low level bass at the beginning) but the same sub turned on immediately while the other sub didn't. Then I shook the sub a little & it turned on. What do you think the problem might be. They were purchased within a few months of each other.

I hate having to get up to keep checking if the one subs on or not. :mad:

I just picked up my dad's FSR-15 that he was currently using as an endtable. I plugged it in and it's getting no power. The LED doesn't light up, and it doesn't sound like any juice is making its way to it at all. There's an authorized service center here in Chandler, AZ... can I just take it there so they can possibly repair it. Or is it probably the amp and can I just purchase a new one to replace it? Thanks!

Hi,

Can someone or Curt tell me what can I get from adding the SMS-1 to my DLS-5000R or is it worth to do that?

Thanks.

It would primarily depend to a large degree on how much equalization your room might require. Being able to view your response and make the necessary corrections in real time is certainly a plus. How much that is worth to you is your decision. With bass reflex designs like your DLS-5000R, you should not add boost below 30hz. I recommend downloading the Outlaw (www.outlawaudio.com) version of the owners manual and see if this process appeals to you. IMO, the SMS is a very useful tool and at the current price, it falls in the 'no brainer' category.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have then running off an NAD T765 AVR that has 2 sub outs. Both subs are set identical, the NAD setting is all speakers set to small @ 80hz. One sub will turn on as soon as it gets the signal, the other sub has a delay turn on, which can take awhile. I even ran both off of a single sub out via a Y cable (thinking maybe the one sub out wasn't operating properly) with the same results.

I did notice that on bass heavy music & movies that they both respond immediately to the signal. I had a Nora Jones CD playing (low level bass at the beginning) but the same sub turned on immediately while the other sub didn't. Then I shook the sub a little & it turned on. What do you think the problem might be. They were purchased within a few months of each other.

I hate having to get up to keep checking if the one subs on or not. :mad:

Hi,
Assuming both your Nad sub out jacks are sending the same voltage, and you can verify that by switching the leads to the opposite sub, I would recommend the following.
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of both subwoofers.
2) In your NAD, raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three fourths of the way up.
3) Back off the volume of each subwoofer to compensate for the additional input.
Thanks.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I just picked up my dad's FSR-15 that he was currently using as an endtable. I plugged it in and it's getting no power. The LED doesn't light up, and it doesn't sound like any juice is making its way to it at all. There's an authorized service center here in Chandler, AZ... can I just take it there so they can possibly repair it. Or is it probably the amp and can I just purchase a new one to replace it? Thanks!

Hi,
Your subwoofer is a servo sub and very few places have experience with repairing them. I would contact Velodyne service (tomorrow) at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. for your best options. You would only send in the amplifier, not the whole subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All, hope I can get some help. I have an old HGS15 which has stopped working, and it looks like the amp. I was wondering if I could get some advice on how to get it repaired. I have one slight problem though. I'm in the UK, and I don't believe there are any service centres here. Any suggestions?
NickHi,
Please contact our distributor in the UK, they should be able to help with your repair.
REDLINE LTD. Tel. 44 1268 858222
Contact: Martin Morecroft martin@red-line.co.uk
If you have any problem, please send me a PM.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
OK, dumb-ass question time. I didn't want to ship this thing anywhere for something trivial, so I took the amp out to see if the fuze had gone open (it hadn't). I removed a couple of small connectors, but when I came to refit them, I found they could go back in different positions. OK, should have taken a picture beforehand, but its too late now. This is what they look like - have I got them back on correctly? Each connector can be moved one pin closer to the other.
Much obliged, Nick

Nick,
You're right, it's always wise to take notes or a picture. I am not in the repair/service group and have no idea of the proper hook up, so you will need to contact Velodyne repair/service (service@velodyne.com) tomorrow for the answer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

Does anybody know whether the Velodyne DD-18 can operate linearly up to the 500Hz Range?

Thx

Hi,
No it can't. It's good up to close to 150hz. I know of no commercially available subwoofer that can play down to 15 hz and much above 150hz. The driver requirements are totally different.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430.

Hi,

Does anybody know whether the Velodyne DD-18 can operate linearly up to the 500Hz Range?

Thx

I have to ask, why would you want to do that?

I have to ask, why would you want to do that?Especially since it's a pretty puny speaker that can't reproduce sounds below 120Hz.

A few possibilities come to mind. I have in the past had some companies needing a subwoofer that went deep and up to 500hz for testing non audio equipment. There are also some planar (ribbons, stats, etc) speakers that only go down to about 500hz. And then there were the retro days where a Altec 'Voice of the Theater' used a 15" woofer up to 500hz where it crossed over to a mid/high compression horn. Otherwise, I don't know.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

A 2 way speaker that goes to 15 hz. LOL. If one was made it would be a junker.

Is 500hz even considered bass? A 4" driver pounds out 500hz well.

Nick,
You're right, it's always wise to take notes or a picture. I am not in the repair/service group and have no idea of the proper hook up, so you will need to contact Velodyne repair/service (service@velodyne.com) tomorrow for the answer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I got a reply back from Pete in support within 24 hours. It was an awkward question to answer, but he couldn't have been clearer or more concise. Redline in the UK have been excellent as well, I'm planning to get down there tomorrow. I'm very impressed with Velodyne support.

Thanks to all, Nick

Curt,

First off, thank you for all your responses. I can decidedly say your attention to all of them is the deciding factor for my upcoming Velodyne purchase. Great customer service is difficult to find these days.

My question:

Is there a reason why the DEQ series does not show up in the wizard selections?

I have a room that is a little less than 2000 cubic feet and am thinking of the DEQ-10 or 12 which of these would be better suited? Or another suggestion.

I have a budget of about $700

I am placing it with Monitor Audio 3x R250, 2x R90 all powered by a Sunfire TGR-3

Thanks again,
Chris

Chris,
We do need to get the DEQ series posted. The DEQ performance is the same as the DLS series so you can use that for sizing purposes. I would go with the DEQ-12 for the additional reserve capability.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I got a reply back from Pete in support within 24 hours. It was an awkward question to answer, but he couldn't have been clearer or more concise. Redline in the UK have been excellent as well, I'm planning to get down there tomorrow. I'm very impressed with Velodyne support.

Thanks to all, Nick

Nick out of interest...are they going to repair or replace the amp? I understand that there has been some concerns about some excessive prices being quoted by Redline for amp boards previously on the UK forums.

Greetings all - at what point in setup should I perform the auto-eq function on my Optimum-8? Should I do it only after setting proper phase, volume, and crossover?

Hi,
Run the auto-eq first.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt - so, I run the EQ first with the factory defaults? Then set crossover, volume, and phase? I think that's what you're saying, it's just counterintuitive to my original thinking. If so, I'll reset everything to factory spec tonight, run the EQ, then work on setting phase, etc.

Nick out of interest...are they going to repair or replace the amp? I understand that there has been some concerns about some excessive prices being quoted by Redline for amp boards previously on the UK forums.
Hi John,

I just dropped it off today. They are likely going to replace the amp board for around £200. I thought about taking it to my trusted local repair shop, but these are digital amps, with driver feedback. On balance I'd probably rather have a repair done by someone who's seen on before, and I hear that schematics aren't available outside the Velodyne network. Better that than writing off the sub - its a good-un.

Nick

Hi John,

I just dropped it off today. They are likely going to replace the amp board for around £200. I thought about taking it to my trusted local repair shop, but these are digital amps, with driver feedback. On balance I'd probably rather have a repair done by someone who's seen on before, and I hear that schematics aren't available outside the Velodyne network. Better that than writing off the sub - its a good-un.

Nick

That price doesn't sound bad. Did you see the story on AVForums or here...I can't find it now...where it was more like 600 pounds? Oh and definitely hang on to your sub...as you said..its a good-in

Thanks Curt

I'll go with the 12. Looking forward to the upgrade from my old Dahlquist

Hello Curt,

I own a pair of HGS-18's. The one thing that bothers me and it has become louder over the years is the background "woosh" noise. I can here mine from the 12' listening position.

How quiet are the Digital Drive series?

Thank you,
John

John,
The DD's are dead quiet. You could also check with Velodyne repair/service (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com, to see what can be done about making yours quieter. The noise you're referring to is the analog servo feedback circuit.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

John,
The DD's are dead quiet. You could also check with Velodyne repair/service (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com, to see what can be done about making yours quieter. The noise you're referring to is the analog servo feedback circuit.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

I spoke with repair and I am sending both of my amplifiers out this evening.

How does the HGS series match with the DD series? Would I have any problem with a pair of HGS-18's and a pair of DD-18's working together?

Thanks,
John

Hi,
The HGS performance is close to a DD without using the computer of the DD. They can match very well with a pair of DD-18s.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

I spoke with repair and I am sending both of my amplifiers out this evening.

How does the HGS series match with the DD series? Would I have any problem with a pair of HGS-18's and a pair of DD-18's working together?

Thanks,
John

I think the results would be very good. You use your 2 hgs, add 1 dd and eq it, then add the last dd and eq it. It would actually make the first 2 sound better, as the final eq sweep on the dd-18 would have the room pretty flat.

I got a vx-10 in a small bedroom and my receiver has lfe settings from -20 to 0db. I don't know what to set it at and why only negative settings are available.

saintsaints,

Bottom line is that you have to use a SPL (sound pressure level) meter to properly adjust that setting.

If you want to know more about setting up a subwoofer http://av123forum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3418

The VX-10 does have some special requirements.
1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs.
2) Raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to near maximum, or high enough to have The sub's volume loud enough in the room, with the Volume on the sub well below half way, like a 10'oclock position.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt, I am setting up a SMS-1 with two SPL-1000R's. I've played with it some and it really smooths out the bass. Gets rid of the boom and give you more true deep bass. I am going to move the subs around to see if I can get even better results. One question though, what should I set the sub sonic filter at? Currently I have it set at 24HZ because that is the lower end rating for the sub. Thanks.

Hi,
If you play loud and the total area is medium to large, I would set it at 28hz with a 24db slope, otherwise 24hz with a 24db slope is fine. I would not add any (or very little) EQ boost below 30hz in either case.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a set of Definitive STS speakers, but wanted to get a separate powered sub. My room is 17 x 15 - but opens to a family room and dining room. Also, the ceilings are vaulted peaking at 18 feet.

Would an Optimum 12 improve my system or is it waste to get anything smaller than a 15" sub? Unfortunately, I cannot accommodate a sub greater than 18" all around. I will use the sub primarily for movies as I will run my fronts full-range for music.

Hi,
I need the measurements for the other two rooms or a total cubic displacement number.
You're at about 3400 cubic feet now. You could send me a PM or of course give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a DPS-10 that I have had for about 5 years now. I have a very hard time figuring out the volume on the display. I have seen Curt's recommendations on other models of resetting to default volume on the Jazz setting and turning up the db's in the receiver about to 3/4. Is this also optimum for the DPS-10? Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hi,
Yes that should work quite well. If you do a reset, every quick push will take the volume up or down about two numbers. It might be best to do a reset and then adjust the volume up or down with the receiver's subwoofer volume control. BTW, to do a reset you push the presets from left to right and back again (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1). Call me if this isn't clear.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,

The 10" driver on my VA-1210 started rattling recently. What are my options? Does Velodyne have any left? Recone? Buy a thirdparty replacement? If I do that would I have to adjust the passive radiator at all? I'm a newb when it comes to speaker repair so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Tomorrow, contact Velodyne repair/service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. They can supply a replacement driver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Yes that should work quite well. If you do a reset, every quick push will take the volume up or down about two numbers. It might be best to do a reset and then adjust the volume up or down with the receiver's subwoofer volume control. BTW, to do a reset you push the presets from left to right and back again (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1). Call me if this isn't clear.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt. Do you also recommend using a splitter on all models? If so, do you recommend a brand or certain specs?

Hi,
I always use a splitter. On some Velodynes (VX-10, VRPs and Impact series), it's a requirement, on others it's an option. Any 'Y' splitter will work fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I attached the photo that is my sitting place face to the TV. I want to know what is the phase on the subwoofer setting ? (0,90,180 or 270)

Thanks all brother help on this.....:p

Hi,
Most often '0' is correct. If one of the other positions is louder, then that is the one to use. If they all sound about the same, then go with '0'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Most often '0' is correct. If one of the other positions is louder, then that is the one to use. If they all sound about the same, then go with '0'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

What is the mean louder ???

I can confirmed the 180 and 270 is not better than 0......but i tried 90....it seem more bass but not clear than 0.....how can i test now?

Thanks for your advise.

Hi,
Understand, this setting is not critical. If you think '90' is louder, then go with it. If you can't be sure, get a SPL meter and a CD with a test tone and check readings.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the info. My sub is actually a VA-1012XII. I called service today and they said they might have one similar 10" driver left and would have to call me back. Is the driver 4 or 8 ohms? Thanks.

Hi,
Sorry, I don't have that information, the service department can help you with that.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

My Cherry DD-18's arrived today. They are beautiful and sound even better. I did not have much time to listen to them after setting them up. I was just able to balance their sound and calibrate them with Audyssey in my Integra DHC-9.9 processor. They are dead quiet as Curt suggested.

My tuned up HGS-18 amps should be back next week.

John

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/blonzz/DD18VELODYNE039.jpg

Nice! I thought about the cherry, but they weren't popular in the UK so it would have taken many weeks to get one. As my previous sub (a REL Stentor II) had a failed driver and I wanted a replacement quick I had to go with the black one.

I found my DD-18 improved after the first 20 or so hours of use. I got the impression that they didn't need running in. But it wasn't just me who noticed...others in the family noticed too. I am curious if you notice any changes after a while.

Curt,

MY DD-18 manual states the low pass crossover and the subsonic filters are defeatable. I was able to defeat the lowpass filter. The subsonic filter can not be defeated or brought below 15 Hz.

The results are the same with either sub.

John

John,
Sorry for the confusion and mistake in the manual. All Velodyne subwoofers use a subsonic filter for protection. On the DD-18 the lower limit is 15hz.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I am using Audyssey MultEQ XT on the pair of DD-18's. I have the lowpass crossover shut off in both subs. I am not using the room correction in the subwoofers.
Would you recommend using the SMS-1 equalizer in the DD-18's and then running Audyssey?

John

Hi,
There are different opinions on this. Audyssey recommends doing the DD or SMS correction first, so I'll go along with that for now. Audyssey does very little correction in the lower frequencies, so my take is they would prefer a flatter response to begin with. You could certainly go back and tweak again with the DD/SMS after running the Audyssey if you want to.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
I have a question on my DLS-4000R. Yesterday was the first time I had used this bad boy since the superbowl and it started making weird popping noises as if the amp were clipping and everytime the bass got loud, the woofer would pop and go silent. It would then start with the music after about 10 to 20 seconds. Would this be a sign of an amp or speaker problem? I would hate to have to send in the whole thing as this is a beast at 61lbs.

Tomorrow, contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
You would only send in the plate amp.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

My Cherry DD-18's arrived today. They are beautiful and sound even better. I did not have much time to listen to them after setting them up. I was just able to balance their sound and calibrate them with Audyssey in my Integra DHC-9.9 processor. They are dead quiet as Curt suggested.

My tuned up HGS-18 amps should be back next week.

John

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/blonzz/DD18VELODYNE039.jpg

You waste no time. hehe. I have 1 dd-18 in cherry. So 2 must be sweet. add the other 2 you have and it must be fairly powerfull in that ht room. Congrats on the subs.

choking on the guessing 100k spent in that room.

Is the current DD series being discontinued and replaced? The series is now about 5 years old and with all the new Velodyne models coming out is a new version likely????

Hi,
Yes, there will be a replacement for the DD series. We do not have a date. I can tell you, it won't be real soon.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Yes, there will be a replacement for the DD series. We do not have a date. I can tell you, it won't be real soon.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have wondered if Velodyne are struggling to figure out how to make an already excellent product even better?

Compared to the SVS subs, I guess a focus on being able to deliver even more grunt for movies.

But my biggest expectation is a Room EQ system that thinks in 3D (time is the 3rd/Z axis....looking for room modes) rather than just 2D. And it should auto-setup things like phase and polarity...it can be measured afterall (max volume is what you want).

Hi,
Yes, looking at all of the above.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Bought my first Velo a million years ago; a ULD15, and actually still have it, but the amp has a problem in that the separate amp/servo controller intermittently loses its "control" of the woofer and starts to "boom" uncontrolled.

I'm guessing the cirucit boards are fried as the last time I took it in for service there were many connections that needed to be resoldered...that fix lasted about a year before the booming came back.

But I bought it about 20 some odd years ago, and am using it now as a side table! Those ULD15's were BIG.

Any hope/quick fix/replacement controller/amp that can be used to bring this "oldie but goodie" back, or just us it as a side table?

I bought a Velo SPL 1000 a few years back as a replacement and am very happy with it, but only use it for movies now as my Usher 602's sound better without a sub...especially when playing vinyl.

So, leave the ULD15 as a side table or is there an easy way to resurrect the old beast and perhaps give it to a friend?

I hate to throw stuff out, especially such a well crafted old piece as the ULD15.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They still service some ULDs and can best advise you on available options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They still service some ULDs and can best advise you on available options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank You; e-mail sent to service@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt, contacted customer service.

Curt,

My tuned up HGS-18's amps arrived back from Velodyne today. After installation I placed them in my system.

I am gald I sent them in for service. They are very quiet now.

John

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/blonzz/DD18VELODYNE062.jpg

That makes me happy too, John.
Enjoy,
Curt

Hi,
There are different opinions on this. Audyssey recommends doing the DD or SMS correction first, so I'll go along with that for now. Audyssey does very little correction in the lower frequencies, so my take is they would prefer a flatter response to begin with. You could certainly go back and tweak again with the DD/SMS after running the Audyssey if you want to.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

According to Audyssey their subwoofer channel has 8 times the resolution of the other channels. Their correction software measures and calculates the actual in-room -3 dB roll-off point of all channels, including the subwoofer, and creates filters down to those roll-off frequencies.

Since Audyssey measures and calculates the timing for all channels, they prefer that subwoofer EQ systems run first. In this way they can then accurately measure the correct total delay, including any electronic delay introduced by the subwoofer EQ system.

However, here's a recent newletter from Velodyne regarding Digital Drive's Interaction with a Receiver's Room EQ Settings (http://www.velodyne.com/newsletter/volumes/v14/article_4.html), which seems to recommend that the subwoofer EQ be run last.

Larry

Hi,
As I said, there are different opinions on this. I am aware of Audyssey's position and recommendation, and as I stated I'll go along with that. There are others, including some at Velodyne who disagree. I've had feedback from users who have tried both methods and no clear agreement as to which works better. Either way, you can always check the DD's graph before and after and see what if any differences there are in the low frequency response, and correct as necessary. (In your last sentence, I think you meant the article indicated to run the DD-EQ last.)
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
As I said, there are different opinions on this. I am aware of Audyssey's position and recommendation, and as I stated I'll go along with that. There are others, including some at Velodyne who disagree. I've had feedback from users who have tried both methods and no clear agreement as to which works better. Either way, you can always check the DD's graph before and after and see what if any differences there are in the low frequency response, and correct as necessary. (In your last sentence, I think you meant the article indicated to run the DD-EQ last.)
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Thanks for your response.

Yes, I should have stated the article indicated to run the DD-EQ last. I'll correct my posting to avoid confusion.

Larry

Curt,
Enjoyed speaking with you a few weeks ago. I am in the middle of negotiations with a seller on a HGS-18 series 2 THX. It has had the upgrade done to the amp. My question to you is two fold. 1. How will this sub stack up to the newer DD-18. 2. 1100-1200 dollars, is that a reasonable price to pay for the HGS? The seller rates his sub a 9/10. Thanks for your input.
Gary

Hi,
Basic performance of the HGS-18 THX is close to the DD-18. The DD-18 can play a little louder and of course has all the digital set-up and EQ features provided by the on board computer. You could purchase the SMS-1 to provide these features for the HGS. As to price, it would seem to be in the ballpark. If it is to be shipped, make sure it's packaged correctly and insured.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

....also be sure that it goes motor freight and not UPS. Else you'll be buying a new driver.

I want to thank you for this thread and the info that I needed to run my DLS 4000r sub at 3/4 volume in the reciever.. it really came alive after that and has much more grunt..I am going to find a nice Y cable to try next. Again thanks for all the info.

One question; I have it set to Jazz for everything because it is so tight,,,would I be better off using the other settings for the theme they are intended?

Hi,
Thanks for the feedback. The presets are a personal thing and #3 (classical/jazz) is the pure setting with nothing added. I would also recommend trying #1 (movies) when doing home theater as it only adds some volume and a small boost in the lower frequencies. Most users prefer a louder setting and a small boost in the lower bass for H/T/. Try it and see what you think.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Dear Curt C,

I have a Velodyne DLR-4000r and I am having some dificulties to setup.

I bought one Y cable and it is properly connected to a Harman Kardon AVR 254 Receiver.

I also have the following:

-Rotel RB-1080 for the fronts;
-Rotel RB-993 for the center and surrounds;
-B&W 602s3;
-B&W HTM7;
-B&W LM-1;

I run the "EzEq" setup and it configures the subwoofer to -10db! and depending on the type of song it is stull too loud...

Could you please explain how to properly setup the volume BEFORE running the EZsetup? Since it does not have a volume knob or a display that shows the volume, only lights that blinks! Please be aware that I am a total new comer, so please forgive me if said something that does not make sense!

Thank you very much.

Hi,
If the sub volume is too loud, you can turn the subwoofer down with the remote control. The blinking lights let you know the sub's volume. After pushing the remote volume up or down, the long blinks are tens, the shorts are units, so 2 long and 4 short would be volume '24'. What I would recommend is after the EZ set-up, manually raise the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel to at least '0' and then lower the sub's volume to where it sounds correct. Newcomers are welcome!
If you don't understand, please call me direct if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
If the sub volume is too loud, you can turn the subwoofer down with the remote control. The blinking lights let you know the sub's volume. After pushing the remote volume up or down, the long blinks are tens, the shorts are units, so 2 long and 4 short would be volume '24'. What I would recommend is after the EZ set-up, manually raise the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel to at least '0' and then lower the sub's volume to where it sounds correct. Newcomers are welcome!
If you don't understand, please call me direct if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hmm WOW! THank you!

Thats very interesting, so.. the volume goes 1 to 100? right?
If I get 5 long blinks and 10 fast ones, means 50?

Thank you!

Well 5 long would be '50', so you may be getting '59' or so which is way too high. Get it back in the twenties and raise the receiver's volume as I suggested. To do a factory (sub) reset, push the remote presets in the following order: 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. That will put the volume at about '35' as I recall which is already high. You had the volume too high so the EZ setup reacted and lowered it's setting. I suspect a good sub volume setting for the EZ setup would be about '20' or so. There is no way to tell you exactly as it is room related.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Well 5 long would be '50', so you may be getting '59' or so which is way too high. Get it back in the twenties and raise the receiver's volume as I suggested. To do a factory (sub) reset, push the remote presets in the following order: 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. That will put the volume at about '35' as I recall which is already high. You had the volume too high so the EZ setup reacted and lowered it's setting. I suspect a good sub volume setting for the EZ setup would be about '20' or so. There is no way to tell you exactly as it is room related.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430


WOW OMG Curt!! Thank you SOOOOO much, I dont know why this information is not in the manual! As this is pretty important!

And you are right, I set the Subwoofer volume to 20 and I got good calibration this time!

Thank you very much!

Now my sub really makes me happy! :)

Velodyne F-1200 Green Light No Sound

Hello

I just posted to the main thread before seeing the Velodyne sub thread. Sorry about that. I just purchased a F-1200 from a friend cosmetically in pristine condition. Below is the rest of the story.

I have a Velodyne F-1200 the Green Light comes on but there is No Sound. The unit was fine when put in storage but will not operate now. Could this be a case of leaky or dried out caps. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, R Pence

Hi,
Yes, the worse thing for a subwoofer and many other electrical devices, is storage. They need to be used. It could very well be caps. Please call Velodyne repair service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for an estimate. In most cases they still service the F series and you would only return the amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt

From all I can read most service repairs preformed by Velodyne run into the several hundred dollar range. The repair cost would be more than the unit is worth.
Guess I will start trouble shooting it my self and wright off my loss and through it in the garbage it I can not figure it out.
Thanks for the reply.

Thanks, Randy n4jzy

It totally depends on the value of the subwoofer to you. The F series is a servo feedback subwoofer known for it's low distortion and accuracy, better suited to music than home theater. If you still have a good use for it, I consider the repair charge very reasonable considering the age and technology of the subwoofer. I own and enjoy several F-1200s used for music in smaller rooms. I have not seen a F-1200 selling for less than the repair charge. I would determine the future use and if it's home theater in a medium or large room or an open area, then the money might be better spent on a newer, proper subwoofer. As alway, if you call me we can discuss options (pro and con), in-depth.
Thanks and Good Luck.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt...which is better the impact 10 or chrysalis starfire 10?

I've noticed as of late that my CHT-10 seems to go silent all of a sudden. The green light on the back that shows that it is powered on stays lit, but even in high bass scenes the woofer does not move. If I go behind the sub and toggle the on/off switch it comes back to life. I have the crossover on direct and I have the crossover on my Yamaha 663 set to 80Hz. I have it connected via a monster sub cable and female to two male Y adaptor which plugs right into the sub. I have no idea what may be the problem but would love any suggestions. Thanks it advance.

Hi,
You may have a defective on/off switch or possibly the unit is doing a thermal shutdown for protection. Keep the sub's volume well below half way (9 or 10 o'clock) and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver. If this does not help, contact Velodyne repair service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt...which is better the impact 10 or chrysalis starfire 10?

Hi,
They perform the same. Chrysalis has different distribution.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
You may have a defective on/off switch or possibly the unit is doing a thermal shutdown for protection. Keep the sub's volume well below half way (9 or 10 o'clock) and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel in your receiver. If this does not help, contact Velodyne repair service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

I'll try that tonight when I get home from work and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help Curt.

Hi Curt,

According to Audyssey their subwoofer channel has 8 times the resolution of the other channels. Their correction software measures and calculates the actual in-room -3 dB roll-off point of all channels, including the subwoofer, and creates filters down to those roll-off frequencies.

Since Audyssey measures and calculates the timing for all channels, they prefer that subwoofer EQ systems run first. In this way they can then accurately measure the correct total delay, including any electronic delay introduced by the subwoofer EQ system.

However, here's a recent newletter from Velodyne regarding Digital Drive's Interaction with a Receiver's Room EQ Settings (http://www.velodyne.com/newsletter/volumes/v14/article_4.html), which seems to recommend that the subwoofer EQ be run last.

Larry

IMHO running the sub EQ after Audyssey is the way to go. I tried it both ways....no doubt that last is better. After the Audyssey EQ, I "adjusted" some of the parameters to "better fit" my setup. Changing the xover settings and sub volume were the parameters modified.

Dakota

As long as you can figure out a way to recheck and correct the subwoofer distance in Audyssey, then you should be fine. Correct me if I'm wrong, but most the time if you go back into speaker distance settings in an Audyssey enabled receiver/preamp, doesn't that undo Audyssey????? I think that would be the main problem in running Audyssey first rather than last.

Hi All,
I will be out of the office today and the weekend. May not have any computer time or access until I'm back on Monday. If you have any Velodyne support questions today (Friday), please contact Velodyne service manager, Dave Santos at: dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Dakota

As long as you can figure out a way to recheck and correct the subwoofer distance in Audyssey, then you should be fine. Correct me if I'm wrong, but most the time if you go back into speaker distance settings in an Audyssey enabled receiver/preamp, doesn't that undo Audyssey????? I think that would be the main problem in running Audyssey first rather than last.

I did not correct the sub distance in Audyssey. The Audyssey "measured distance" was 6' more than the actual "tape measured" distance.

I did not correct the sub distance in Audyssey. The Audyssey "measured distance" was 6' more than the actual "tape measured" distance.

Which is probably correct. But if you adjust the Velodyne after that measurement, the correct distance may change.

I came across this when I stumple across some information about equalizer induced phase/group distortions. I went back and retested and found that the distance actually got 1 foot shorter than my original 10' longer than physical distance. Doesn't sound like much, but at my primary listening position it made a significant change. Now I'm running around telling everybody about it. lol

Which is probably correct. But if you adjust the Velodyne after that measurement, the correct distance may change.

I came across this when I stumple across some information about equalizer induced phase/group distortions. I went back and retested and found that the distance actually got 1 foot shorter than my original 10' longer than physical distance. Doesn't sound like much, but at my primary listening position it made a significant change. Now I'm running around telling everybody about it. lol

Where is this info?

My speakers are all Vandersteen, including the sub (V2W), which is very fast with respect to most other subs. Does not play as loud as other subs, but then again I am not into "shaking my house". The front speakers, Ce Seg II's, are positioned in my "theatre" according to "Odd Dimensions Placement" calculations, as per Vandersteen literature. Time consuming, but worth the effort. I used a Radio Shack SPL Meter during this process.

Dakota

As long as you can figure out a way to recheck and correct the subwoofer distance in Audyssey, then you should be fine. Correct me if I'm wrong, but most the time if you go back into speaker distance settings in an Audyssey enabled receiver/preamp, doesn't that undo Audyssey????? I think that would be the main problem in running Audyssey first rather than last.

Jim:
There are two phases to the Audyssey setup:
Phase 1 - Calculate speaker distances, delays, speaker "size" and xover points.
Phase 2 - Calculate and create the EQ filters for the environment.

I believe you can change parameters in Phase 1 and those changes will not change the filters created in Phase 2.

I changed xover settings and still can run Audyssey......I run "flat"

Dakota,

In that case, rerun Phase 1 after you've EQed the Velodyne.

Also, if you think you're just not getting enough subwoofer response, up its spl by 3 to 5 dbs.

Dakota,

In that case, rerun Phase 1 after you've EQed the Velodyne.

Also, if you think you're just not getting enough subwoofer response, up its spl by 3 to 5 dbs.

Jim:

Re-running phase 1 resets phase phase 2!

I have "plenty" of bass. I will have "access" to an Optimum 12 this weekend. It will be interesting to "hear" what this sub will do in my system. I will not rerun Audyssey. Just set the Optimum 12 ouput to 80db (same as the V2W) with it in same position as the V2W. I will rerun SIM-1 EQ on this sub. As my SO says...."toys are us":D

IMHO running the sub EQ after Audyssey is the way to go. I tried it both ways....no doubt that last is better. After the Audyssey EQ, I "adjusted" some of the parameters to "better fit" my setup. Changing the xover settings and sub volume were the parameters modified.

Hi,

Obviously, there can't be an incorrect answer to personal preference. ;)

Nevertheless, if you run the sub equalization after Audyssey, then the Audyssey timing will be incorrect since in doesn't include the electronic delay associated with the sub EQ.

Changing the crossover settings after running Audyssey will not change the EQ filters, and Audyssey recommends resetting the crossovers particularly if the receiver initially sets speakers to Full range.

Changing the subwoofer volume after running Audyssey will change the frequency response from the target curve that Audyssey was attempting to match with the EQ filters. Both of Audyssey's target curves, Audyssey Reference and Audyssey Flat, are flat in the bass region. So changing the subwoofer volume will make the frequency response less flat in the bass region.

If you prefer the sound that's fine, but the timing is not correct and the frequency response is not as flat in the bass region as Audyssey would have adjusted it.

Larry