Hi,

Obviously, there can't be an incorrect answer to personal preference. ;)

Nevertheless, if you run the sub equalization after Audyssey, then the Audyssey timing will be incorrect since in doesn't include the electronic delay associated with the sub EQ.

Changing the crossover settings after running Audyssey will not change the EQ filters, and Audyssey recommends resetting the crossovers particularly if the receiver initially sets speakers to Full range.

Changing the subwoofer volume after running Audyssey will change the frequency response from the target curve that Audyssey was attempting to match with the EQ filters. Both of Audyssey's target curves, Audyssey Reference and Audyssey Flat, are flat in the bass region. So changing the subwoofer volume will make the frequency response less flat in the bass region.

Note: I set the sub vol to 80db b4 I run Audyssey.....perhaps I did not make that clear

If you prefer the sound that's fine, but the timing is not correct and the frequency response is not as flat in the bass region as Audyssey would have adjusted it.

Larry

Larry:
Point made. However, as you point out "Obviously, there can't be an incorrect answer to personal preference", and that, I think, is what we are dealing with here, when it come to bass. Yes, we use the "electronic" tools available to "tune nad correct", but in the end it comes down to our "ears"!

I like what I hear, and "Damm the torpedoes...full speed ahead"!:eek:

Note: I set the sub volume to 80db b4 I run Audyssey

Note: I set the sub volume to 80db b4 I run Audyssey

Hi,

After you run Audyssey it's going to adjust the subwoofer trims to achieve 75 dB at the primary listening location. I gather that you readjust the subwoofer volume upward again after running Audyssey to get that low frequency bump that you prefer over Audyssey's flat response.

Larry

Hi,

After you run Audyssey it's going to adjust the subwoofer trims to achieve 75 dB at the primary listening location. I gather that you readjust the subwoofer volume upward again after running Audyssey to get that low frequency bump that you prefer over Audyssey's flat response.

Larry

Larry..
Nope. I don't readjust the sub. I adjust the sub volume via the SMS-1.

B4 I run anything, I set the sub volume to 80db via its volume control..measured from my prime listening position using a RadioShack SPLM.

I have "plenty" of bass. I will have "access" to an Optimum 12 this weekend. It will be interesting to "hear" what this sub will do in my system. I will not rerun Audyssey. Just set the Optimum 12 ouput to 80db (same as the V2W) with it in same position as the V2W. I will rerun SIM-1 EQ on this sub.

Dave

Larry..
Nope. I don't readjust the sub. I adjust the sub volume via the SMS-1.

B4 I run anything, I set the sub volume to 80db via its volume control..measured from my prime listening position using a RadioShack SPLM.

I have "plenty" of bass. I will have "access" to an Optimum 12 this weekend. It will be interesting to "hear" what this sub will do in my system. I will not rerun Audyssey. Just set the Optimum 12 ouput to 80db (same as the V2W) with it in same position as the V2W. I will rerun SIM-1 EQ on this sub.

Dave

Hi Dave,

I understand you are using the SMS-1 to control the V2W, but regardles of whether you use controls on the subwoofer or via the SMS-1, you are adjusting the output (volume) of the subwoofer.

Even though you adjusted the volume to 80 dB before running Audyssey, after running Audyssey it will readjust the volume down to 75dB. That's what it's designed to do, set all levels to the same reference. So, if you don't readjust the V2W (with the SMS-1) after Audyssey runs, you will be at 75dB.

I am not familar with SIM-1 EQ, but the Velodyne Optimum 12 has a basic 7-band parametric equalizer, whereas Audyssey has over 4,000 control points on the subwoofer channel to smooth the response. It seem to me that if you run Audyssey with the V2W then add the Optimum 12 with the bass boosted to 80 dB and then overlay a basic 7-band equalizer with much coarser adjustments, that you will be grossly unsmoothing what Audyssey is attempting to achieve, in addition to throwing off the timing.

The net result is very little of Audyssey's benefits being utilized in the all important bass region.

Larry

Hi Dave,

I understand you are using the SMS-1 to control the V2W, but regardles of whether you use controls on the subwoofer or via the SMS-1, you are adjusting the output (volume) of the subwoofer.

Even though you adjusted the volume to 80 dB before running Audyssey, after running Audyssey it will readjust the volume down to 75dB. That's what it's designed to do, set all levels to the same reference. So, if you don't readjust the V2W (with the SMS-1) after Audyssey runs, you will be at 75dB.

I am not familar with SIM-1 EQ, but the Velodyne Optimum 12 has a basic 7-band parametric equalizer, whereas Audyssey has over 4,000 control points on the subwoofer channel to smooth the response. It seem to me that if you run Audyssey with the V2W then add the Optimum 12 with the bass boosted to 80 dB and then overlay a basic 7-band equalizer with much coarser adjustments, that you will be grossly unsmoothing what Audyssey is attempting to achieve, in addition to throwing off the timing.

The net result is very little of Audyssey's benefits being utilized in the all important bass region.

Larry

Larry,
We are going in circles.
1 - The Velodyne SMS-1 is a "Subwoofer Management
System! This system enables you to bring the power of Velodyne’s patent-pending Digital Drive bass management to any subwoofer." See Velodyne web site for more details.
2 - I am inserting the Optimum 12 into my system, replacing the V2W, to see if it makes a difference. It is on "loan"
3 - I am well aware that Audyssey will "reset" the sub volume to 75db. I do not change it after Audyssey.
4- The Audyssey paramaters I change are xover settings for front(80db), center(80db), surrounds(100db) and LFE(80db).
5 - Sub xover is set to off. Sub volume control adjusted to 80db, as I have previously explained.
6 - I have "equalized" both ways:
a- Audyssey b4 SMS-1
b- SMS-1 b4 Audyssey
In both cases, I change only the parameters in (4) above.

With the V2W in the system, (a) works best....in my environment and to my ears.

I will let you know what the outcome is with the Optimum 12. Testing will be on Sunday, 3/15.

Dave

Dave,

Just an aside, I see others who post about changing crossovers after running Audyssey. Doesn't it seem that this would result in incorrect equalization for the after change setup?

Dave,

Just an aside, I see others who post about changing crossovers after running Audyssey. Doesn't it seem that this would result in incorrect equalization for the after change setup?

Jim,
see....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14456895#post14456895

Dave

Dave,
Which part?

Dave,

Just an aside, I see others who post about changing crossovers after running Audyssey. Doesn't it seem that this would result in incorrect equalization for the after change setup?

Hi Jim,

Regardless of where the crossovers are set, Audyssey ignores them when calculating it's filters. During calibration it measures the actual in-room -3dB roll-off points for all channels, it recommends the crossover setting based on this information, and calculates filters down to this point.

If the user decides to raise the crossover the filters remain intact down to the measured roll-off point. That is, the filters are the same regardless of the chosen crossover.

There is a professional version of Audyssey that does the same thing described above, but increases the crossover points available in the receiver/prepro and determines which value yields the smoothest frequency response. Again the filters remain intact to the measured roll-off point.

I think Audyssey would say that the equalization remains correct regardless of the crossover selected, but that the Pro software produces a smoother response.

Larry

Dave,
Which part?

Note 1

I upgraded to a spl-1000 and was wondering if it was possible to downfire the sub. The martin logan design series subs have this option instead of front firing using a mount adapter. I moved my car sub around before also.

saintsaints,

Why would you want to do this?

I'm use to downfiring since I had a uld12 for more ht feel and a downfiring koda10 in a wheel well car trunk.

I upgraded to a spl-1000 and was wondering if it was possible to downfire the sub. The martin logan design series subs have this option instead of front firing using a mount adapter. I moved my car sub around before also.


Hi,
Yes you could downfire the sub if you have someway of elevating it about 2" up from the floor. There is however no advantage (IMO) to downfiring the sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

When the receiver switches audio tracks, is it normal for the sub to pop? For example, going from the menu of a movie (2ch) to the actual movie (5ch). Is the volume on my DPS-10 too high?

Note: I have the crossover in my Onkyo 605 set to 120hz and the crossover dial on the sub set to Direct. I did a reset on the volume and left it at default. The sub volume on the receiver is at about 3/4.

Hi,
It certainly appears the switching 'pop' is coming from your equipment (DVD or Receiver).
If the subwoofer receives a pop, then it will reproduce the pop.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
It certainly appears the switching 'pop' is coming from your equipment (DVD or Receiver).
If the subwoofer receives a pop, then it will reproduce the pop.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I don't remember this happening before and the only thing that has changed is that the sub is plugged directly into the wall (instead of the Monster Power Center) and I did a reset on the volume (12344321). Could any of these things cause this? If it is the receiver, could it just start doing this out of nowhere?

Yes the receiver or DVD player could just start to do it. Anything is possible. Try a different outlet or try the Monster power device again.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

People have spent time and money developing d-box where a downfiring sub would work the same.

When the receiver switches audio tracks, is it normal for the sub to pop? For example, going from the menu of a movie (2ch) to the actual movie (5ch). Is the volume on my DPS-10 too high?

Note: I have the crossover in my Onkyo 605 set to 120hz and the crossover dial on the sub set to Direct. I did a reset on the volume and left it at default. The sub volume on the receiver is at about 3/4.This reminds me of just after I baught my DD15. The sub is sitting on an Auralex pad and I have the low pass filter turned off

Anyway I was vacuuming, when it touched the Auralex pad the sub made a EXTREMELY LOUD POP.......scared the absolute c&@p out of me :eek:

I assumed it was due to the input cable touching the pad and when the vacuum touched the pad it caused a static discharge through the input cable, and since the crossover was turned off the sub reproduced the entire discharged signal not just the LF portion.

..........since then I have always made sure I turn the sub off when the vacuum comes out to play ;)

cheers

When the receiver switches audio tracks, is it normal for the sub to pop? For example, going from the menu of a movie (2ch) to the actual movie (5ch). Is the volume on my DPS-10 too high?

Note: I have the crossover in my Onkyo 605 set to 120hz and the crossover dial on the sub set to Direct. I did a reset on the volume and left it at default. The sub volume on the receiver is at about 3/4.

Lower your crossover frequency and see if the poping sound then comes from your speakers.

Also, do you experience this same popping with anything other than your DVD player? If not, I'd be looking at the DVD player as the source of the popping.

I had a somewhat similar experience where my cable box would cause a pop whenever switching channels, fast forwarding and rewinding. Basically, Motorola ( the cablebox manufacturer) felt that filtering circuit should be in your preamp/receiver and B&K (preamp manufacturerJ) felt that the noise filter should be with the cablebox. Solution was to switch to satellite. :)

I have been attempting to connect an HGS-18 and a FSR-15 to my Yamaha receiver with no success. The Yamaha has only 1 sub out so I have been using a Y splitter (Monster). It works fine with only 1 sub connected but when both are hooked up I get no signal to either sub. Any ideas? I am just trying to get this to work as an experiment. I'm pretty sure I won't be able to get the 2 subs to image properly but would like to try. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi,
First thing I would try is another 'Y' splitter. If a single cable works to either sub then the 'Y' with two cables should work, assuming all cables are good. Make sure both subs are operating when hooked up one at a time. This type of hook-up is used all the time.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

I have just ordered a new DD-18 and was wondering how best to hook-up the system for 2-channel and HT.

I run a Denon 4308 for HT and a Conrad Johnson CA200 integrated for 2 channel music.

When I am running HT, I use the HT bypass function on the CJ.

My question is this, can I run the speaker line inputs from from CJ to the DD-18 and also have the LFE from the Denon 4308 at the same time. This would be my ideal situation as I find the speaker connections to work very well in 2 channel but the LFE from the Denon works best for HT.

If not, what is the best way to do this?

Thanks in advance for the response.

Dave.

Dave,
Velodyne subwoofers are not designed for more than one source input. I suggest you wait until you receive your DD and then become totally familiar with all the settings and features. I would initially just hook up the line level LFE to do all the set up funtions. Then try just the speaker level hook up and go through the hook up procedures for it. If you're going to use both at the same time, you will probably need to work to balance the volumes of the two inputs.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I bought a DLS-3750 about 1 year ago, and yesterday I noticed that while the sub was on...and even with the LFE input disconnected, it was making a slight crackling and static noise. It was even messing up the Audyssey calibration done by my Onkyo, where my cheap in-walls were set to FULL range because the sub kept putting out low crackling noices during the claibration test tones. I watched a movie last night (first time with friends of course), and during the quiet scenes the crackling from the sub was also noticable.

The one thing that I can admit to is that for the first time a few days ago I listened to some music via my laptop through my HT system. I actually used the remote to switch through various PRESETS and turned up the volume....I even adjusted the PHASE per Velodyne recommendations. It was after this tinkering....on the following day, that I noticed this.

Any recommendations? I unplugged it for 5 seconds and plugged it back, and it did the same thing. I left it unplugged overnight now, and will have to fire it up to see if it is gone.

Hi,
You may have the sub's volume too high. Do a reset by pushing presets on the remote in the following order 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. This will put the volume at factory default. Then go into your receiver and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel well above half way. Lower the sub's volume to compensate.
If it continues to make the noises, on Monday contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt...you are simply the best...answering questions EARLY Saturday morning!

You're right it is Saturday. Oops, senior moment. Hope the advise helps. If you bought it new a year ago from a Velodyne dealer, it should be under warranty.
Curt 9928) 858-4430

Hey guys, i'm a prowd new owner of a Velo CHT-10R. I've read the manual but would like to hear anny recommendations regarding setup. I have a Yamaha RX-V1700 receiver and Monitor Audio Bronze speakers (2 x bookshelfs + center). I left the low pass crossover on the velo to Direct and set the XO in the Yamaha to 80hz. Is this OK? How about the high pass XO? 100hz? 80hz? or i should try both, and compare the results??

Thanks!

Hi,
Crossover in Yamaha (80hz) and direct on the CHT-10R is correct and you're not using the sub's high-pass crossover, so it doesn't matter where the switch (80-100) is. The Yamaha is doing the high-pass crossover at 80hz. When you set the Yamaha to 80hz, that does both the high and low pass crossover. You're in good shape.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, thanks for the quick answer! i'm pretty amazed by the results i got. And this is with the first place i put the SW. I'll try moving it around the room later to compare results. but so far so good.

Hi,
You may have the sub's volume too high. Do a reset by pushing presets on the remote in the following order 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. This will put the volume at factory default. Then go into your receiver and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel well above half way. Lower the sub's volume to compensate.
If it continues to make the noises, on Monday contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Wow, well it seems that the reset did the trick as far as that popping/crackling noise; however, I can barely hear the sub now. I have to do a re-cal with my receiver. I wanted to ask, when the re-set is done to the Velodyne, where does it set the volume at??

I have noticed before that you recommend to turn up the gain on the receiver as opposed to the sub. Does this yield a cleaner or better bass response? Weird thing....I noticed that it takes a lot more volume from the receiver for the DLS3750 to get a nudge to wake up and turn its blue light on. When I was turning up the gain to the sub, she did not even wake up. I had to use the remote to turn her on. Maybe I manually powered her down with the remote power button. Does that de-activate the ACTIVE ON setting? Should I just keep her re-set and untouched and just make adjustments from the receiver. Also, after the reset can u tell me if any of the preset settings are applied or is it at neutral? Should I press a preset button after the reset? And as i asked earlier, after the reset is the sub volume almost at zero? Thanks again Curt!!

Hi,
The resets puts the volume at about '30' which is already quite high for the sub. The reset also puts the preset to #3.
After your receiver calibrations, manually raise the subwoofer channel in the the receiver to about three fourths of the way up and back off on the sub's volume to compensate. As I've said before, the Audyssey does not provide adequate input signal for the Velodyne. I would also use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of the sub. This low input signal will also effect the auto on/off circuit.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, I have never personally met you...but I definitely consider you a friend!! Thanks for all the timely and great advice. As an individual you raise the worth and respect many have for Velodyne. Thanks again!!

I have an SPL10BGII model subwoofer that blew last week. It was purchased at a nearby Tweeter, and we all know they do not exist anymore.
With Tweeter gone, there is no local Velodyne dealer and the nearest repair center is in New York. Paid $199 4 years ago so it is well out of warrantee.

Should I replace it or try to get it fixed. My only outlet now is the big box store.

Hi,
Tomorrow please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to get information and a repair quote. You would only need to return the amplifier section for repair. To consider a replacement look at the the 'sizing wizard' under 'which product' at the velodyne website (www.velodyne.com) or call me tomorrow and I'd be happy to help with proper subwoofer selection and options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I am running a DD15 with Paradigm S2 v2 speakers. My pre/pro is an Anthem AVM50 with their own room correction system (ARC). Because of ARC, I have the DD15 set to EQ defeat (as suggested by other owners to allow ARC to apply its filters without interference with the Velodynes EQ system). Since I listen to an equal mix of music, movies and tv, I was wondering what would be a fair theater/music setting for the combination of source material?

Alternativelely, is it possible to have one of the other modes (other than "EQ defeat") have the identical sonic attributes as EQ defeat so the only difference between the two is the theater/music setting? This way when I listen to music, I select one mode and the other when I'm watching a movie or TV.

Any other suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks

Hey Curt,

Im finally getting around to getting the audio aspect of my H/T started and first on my agenda is purchasing quality sub. My setup is located in my living room and my listening area is 14 x 14 x 9 but the living room does open up to a small foyer as well as a modest sized kitchen.

The sub will play host to mostly movies as well as a small percentage of music. Im looking for some serious bass that I can really feel during my movie watching but not the kind that will give me a pounding head ache either.

Considering my small listening area, do you think your minivee will give me that major movie theater bass expierence that Im looking for and if not which of your subs would you reccomend for my size room?

Hi,
I would need total cubic displacement including the kitchen and foyer. A subwoofer cannot just play for your smaller area but has to address the total area. I'm going to guess you have have somewhere in the 2500-3000 cubic feet total space.
My first recommendation would be the new Optimum-12, followed by the Optimum -10 and in the MiniVee series perhaps the MiniVee-10, though I suspect it would be too small.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
I would need total cubic displacement including the kitchen and foyer. A subwoofer cannot just play for your smaller area but has to address the total area. I'm going to guess you have have somewhere in the 2500-3000 cubic feet total space.
My first recommendation would be the new Optimum-12, followed by the Optimum -10 and in the MiniVee series perhaps the MiniVee-10, though I suspect it would be too small.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Total cubic feet is actually around 4000. I may be able to get a good deal on a spl-1500r. Would this one be a better option over the Opt-10 or 12? More importantly would it give me plenty of deep bass over your initial recommendations or Im I better off with one of the Optimum subs?

Thanks!

Hi,
Well the recommendation for your size is a DD-18. The SPL-1500 would be a bit undersized, though two would do fine as would two Optimum-12s. Another consideration would be a DLS-5000R or the new DEQ-15. These are high-output designs with 15" woofers. You could start with one and see if a second one is needed. If possible, call me tomorrow and we can discuss the possibilities.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Well the recommendation for your size is a DD-18. The SPL-1500 would be a bit undersized, though two would do fine as would two Optimum-12s. Another consideration would be a DLS-5000R or the new DEQ-15. These are high-output designs with 15" woofers. You could start with one and see if a second one is needed. If possible, call me tomorrow and we can discuss the possibilities.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks so much for your time and recommendations curt! This really helps norrow things down for me and will more than likely go with a DLS-5000R. If I need any further help or advice I'll be sure to give you a call.

Hi Curt,
What is the speaker level input impedance for the DD-18?
Thanks.
Nikki,

Curt is correct "This very high impedance will have no adverse effect on the load seen by your amplifier." But actually the load is 4.7K ohms. R62, and R63 (4.7K 1 watt) are in parallel with the left, and right speaker input binding posts. Insignificant load compared to the source impedance of your speaker outs on your amplifier, but 100 times lower impedance than 470K. 10db attenuation design should work with this impedance value.

Hi,
You are absolutely correct and I have corrected my notes. Thanks for the input.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I purchased Velodyne SPL-12BGII Subwoofer in December of 2006.
A few months ago it stopped working. I would hear popping noises when it was turned on. I thought I had bad cable or a ground loop. I had no way of troubleshooting it. I recently purchased another sub for another room in the house. I plugged the new sub in where Velodyne sub was plugged in. My new Sub worked just fine so I knew that something was wrong with my Velodyne Sub. In the meantime my warranty of Velodyne Sub had expired in Dec 2008. I called the customer service to get it repaired. I was prepared to pay to fix this issue. I was asked to ship the control unit to them. They received the control unit on Friday and today they shipped a brand new control unit to me without any charges.

I have never received better customer service for anything. My warranty had expired and yet they sent me a new sub. In these days of cost cutting it is so nice to see a company stand behind their product.

Thanks very much and I'll pass it on to our service department.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Simple question I know but when using the mic from a DD-18, do you position it at ear height and point it towards the ceiling or towards the front of the room?

Dave.

Had a lightning strike a while back and it got my sub. I replaced the fuses in the sub but they fried as soon as I powered it back up. I'd like to get a rough estimate on what a "typical" lightning strike repair costs on one of these. I called Velodyne several weeks ago and left a message but never got a response. I realize that the estimate would be a "best guess" but I'm trying to decide whether I should repair this one or put it out by the curb.


My setup is as follows:

HK AVR645 receiver
Def Tech Mythos 6 fronts
Def Tech Mythos 5 center
Def Tech UIW 65 rear (in cathedral ceiling)
Velodyne VRP1200 sub

Boston Acoustics Voyager 5's out by the pool (using Zone 2 of the HK AVR645)

Hi,
Please PM me your phone number and I'll get you an estimate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Simple question I know but when using the mic from a DD-18, do you position it at ear height and point it towards the ceiling or towards the front of the room?

Dave.

Hi,
Aim it toward the front of the room.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have an SPL10BGII model subwoofer that blew last week. It was purchased at a nearby Tweeter, and we all know they do not exist anymore.
With Tweeter gone, there is no local Velodyne dealer and the nearest repair center is in New York. Paid $199 4 years ago so it is well out of warrantee.

Should I replace it or try to get it fixed. My only outlet now is the big box store.

Well I found out that this sub retails at $1699. I found my original receipt and actually paid $499. (Now I know why Tweeter is no longer in business.)

Velodyne standard repair for the amp is $230.
So now comes the question.
Should I pay the repair bill, total investment of sub would now be at $729, (a substantial discount to MSRP) and 'hope' the repair does not blow as well, or buy a smaller model? My media room is 1500 sf. (12'W X 15'L X 9'H) Seems like the original sub was way overpowered for the room. But it sure sounded great. :D

Thanks

Hi,
I would have it repaired. It is not too large or powerful for your room. It is the proper size assuming your room doesn't open into other rooms.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Please PM me your phone number and I'll get you an estimate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

PM sent. Thanks, Curt.

I've owned two DD-15's since 1994. About a year ago, I ordered and installed an optional IR receiver from Velodyne, which is connected to the RS-232 IN port of one of my DD-15's. It worked well for a few months but no longer works.

So my question: Is this likely a hardware failure or a software failure inside the DD-15?

I've already tried unplugging and re-plugging the IR receiver into the RS-232 IN port, but I have NOT yet tried performing a "Restore defaults" 8-9-0 command simply because I want to avoid the time/hassle to re-perform the EQ setup if a the IR receiver failure can't be a software failure

I'm willing to invest the time IF a software reset might restore the IR receiver.

Chris

Hi,
I suggest you call me tomorrow if possible. The IR extender cable is normally connected to the IR jack (#12 manual). Do you have it adapted to work into the RS-232 port? If so, I would try it directly into the IR jack and see if that works. Is it possibly the remote? Try the remote into the DD without the extender cable.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

"I've owned two DD-15's since 1994."

You must be one of it's designers, and own a couple of their test boxes. :)

Actually 1994 was way before the HGS. He must have meant 2004.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I know. I was kidding. :)

Hello everyone,

Last sub I had was the Velodyne VA1250X,
had a 12 inch front and 15 inch passive on bottom.
paid about $600 for it and LOVED IT, had it almost 10 years and I guess the amp finally gave out after we had an unusual power spike.

Called Velodyne and they will replace the amp for about $200, but I hesitate to repair things like this so I am looking for options. Room is about 15W x 25L and 10 ft. ceilings. The old Velo sitting in the corner was very good at filling the room with bass and I liked the way the bass rolled across the floor and walls. This is mostly for HT use.

I have narrowed it down to a couple of subs including the
Velodyne DLS-5000R 15"

Unfortunately I don't know of any showrooms in central Florida where I can readily hear a demo on this unit (Sound Advice, a.k.a. Tweeter has gone out of business here). How do you think the new 5000R will compare to my old VA1250X?

Hi,
It will be better in every way. It's a 15" woofer compared to your 12" VA-1250X and has a 'state of the art' 1000 watt class D amplifier. Also look at the all new DEQ-15R which provides the same performance with auto room EQ in addition to a front panel readout. They both have a hand held remote control for fine tuning the sub at listening position, something you'll never give up once you've tried it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Okay thanks.
This 2005 review below says 600 watt amp, did they upgrade it to 1,000?
Will it hit as low as my old one?
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_3/velodyne-dls-5000r-subwoofer-9-2005-part-1.html

Hi,
You're right, 600 RMS, 1200 peak. Since it's an efficient design, it never uses near the maximum power anyway, but reserve is good. It will go lower than your old one.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Dear Curt C,

Once again I come for your aid...

Is there a way to store a user´s preset on the Velodyne DLS-4000r?
Also could you please explain the use of the phases? 0, 90, 180 and 270?

The phases for me seems VERY confusing, what effect do they have if you ont have ONE subwoofer?

Thank you!

Hi,
There is no way to store a user's preset in the DLS subwoofer. This can only be done on the Digital Drive subwoofers. To determine the correct phase setting, play a CD or DVD with good bass content and at listening position, try the different phase settings. If one is noticeably louder, that is the correct phase position. If they all sound about the same, then '0' is correct. In most cases '0' will be the correct setting. Phase is a degree of delay in the signal.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

[QUOTE=curt c;16149490]Hi,
The IR extender cable is normally connected to the IR jack (#12 manual). Do you have it adapted to work into the RS-232 port? If so, I would try it directly into the IR jack and see if that works. [QUOTE]

Me bad and as dumb as a box of rocks!

I had the IR extender cable UNPLUGGED! Once re-plugged, the IR extender worked right away. I completely forgot about Jack #12. (I do have a RS-232 cable running between my two DD-15's but adjusting volume for one did not/does not adjust the other and that is why I added the IR extender cable to functionally accomplish the same thing.)

And as another poster called me on, I've had my 2 DD-15's only since 2004, not 1994 <grin>.

Curt, thank you also for your private message. Certainly not at all expected on a Sunday. Velodyne service is always so above and beyond!

Chris

Hello,

I already created another thread on this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134208), but I am not getting any responses yet. I don't mean to be an impatient jerk, but these are local deals and Idk how long theyre going to be around so I want to make a decision soon.

Two separate sellers in my area are selling their Velodyne PSW. I could really use a littlle guidance in this area. I'm on a pretty tight budget, and am only picking up components as I get good deals (I just got a pair of Polk Monitor 40's for $55 each!). Anyway..

The VRP-10 is asking $175, and the mfctr date is 11-2006
The VX-10 is asking $120, and the mfctr date is 07-2008.
Both claim to be in impeccable condition.

A few things then:

1. I will be offering lower amounts for both, but lets assume for a second I can get them for the same price. Which one would be the best purchase then?
2. Lets assume the price ratios remains the same.. is the VRP-10 worth the extra money?
3. Both claim they can demo the unit for me, is their anything subwoofer-in-general or Velodyne-brand specific that I need to keep an eye\ear out for before purchasing. I know the basic basics, but I am still new at this hobby\passion\addiction.

I cant seem to find a spec sheet on the VRP-10 (only the 1000) so I cant really compare those details like I want to. I'd really appreciate your guys' speedy input as I dont know how long these deals will be available.

Thanks as always

Hi,
First of all, the VRP-10 would be a VRP-1000. There never was a VRP-10. It may say that on the amp but was always referred to as a VRP-1000. Next, the VX-10 and the VRP-1000 are idenical, they just had different distribution. The VRP-1000 is discontinued while the VX-10 is still in production, at least for now. Since they are the same, you can negotiate accordingly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
First of all, the VRP-10 would be a VRP-1000. There never was a VRP-10. It may say that on the amp but was always referred to as a VRP-1000. Next, the VX-10 and the VRP-1000 are idenical, they just had different distribution. The VRP-1000 is discontinued while the VX-10 is still in production, at least for now. Since they are the same, you can negotiate accordingly.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Ah.. well thats not confusing since I'm staring at the words VRP-10! :) Thank you for that information. My final disconnect is that according to the specs on your site, the VRP-1000 seems to be 'better':

VX-10:
150W Dyn
100W RMS
Freq: 36-120hz

VRP-1000:
170W Dyn
115W RMS
Freq: 35-140hz

I appreciate all your time and help. Thank you. In your PM you said you would generally go with newer and that's probably what I'll do (esp since it's cheaper too!). Thanks again :)

You sent the same question on a PM which I answered there. Performance is the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

You sent the same question on a PM which I answered there. Performance is the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks you so much, sorry if I'm a bit of a spaz. :)

Hello Curt
I have a Velodyne SPL-R SERIES 10” and want to maximize or improve the bass. I have the sub front left from the seating position left corner of the wall. The entertainment center is also in left corner and in front of the sub. The sub has a build in EQ so how should I position the mic and adjust the volume of the sub and receiver. I have tile floor and I have a door way on the right side of the seating position.
Thanks you

Hi,
First do the auto-eq. Put the mic at listening position on a chair, stool or whatever's handy aimed at the subwoofer. Go into the receiver and set the volume for the subwoofer channel about two thirds of the way up. I recommend using a 'Y' splitter into both of the sub's input jacks. Set the subs volume to blend with the speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

ok i have asked many people and some say it is some say it isnt and some just have no clue... is this a velodyne sub? its a 18" but has no model number

Hi,
I will run this by the experts and have an answer by tomorrow, or sooner. It doesn't look quite right to me.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Brian.
I don't see any additional servo leads coming from the voice coil. If there are none it's not a Velodyne. All Velodyne 18" subs had the servo. Dust cap looks wrong too, but that might have been replaced.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Quick Question-

My Pioneer Television in the back has 1 subwoofer connection and my brother gave me this sub. I noticed on the back of the Velodyne sub there is 2 sub out left and right and 2 sub in connections left and right. Do I need a Ycable to take advantange of this? Or would 1 cable be ok to either one of these?

I currently just have 1 regular RCA cable from the TV to the back of the amp (sub out). Would this be the best way to set it up?

TV I believe goes down to 80hz. Should I set both Low and High crossover to 80hz max or play it by ear? Thanks !! :)

Hi,
At the subwoofer use a 'Y' splitter into both INPUT jacks. An inexpensive one (Radio Shack, etc.) will work fine. You will not use the sub's OUTPUT jacks, they are for a different purpose. Set both the subwoofer's crossovers to 100hz. Adjust the sub's volume to blend with the TV's speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks a million Curt :) you rock!

It was very nice talking to you. A sub added to a TV set can open a whole new world and we've got you covered with many options.
Thanks for the kind words.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Dear Curt C,

Is there anything, such as "too big subwoofer" for a room? My subwoofer is very oversized for my room, and some friends point out that sound would be too boomy, and I should trade my 4000r to a 3500 or smaller, does that proceed?

Thank you!

Hi Curt, ...I do have a slight issue with the CHT-8Q...
I wonder is it my setting or it is the limit of the sub. I am setting the gain at 30. By distortion meaning that it is a sort of clipping/flabbering sound out from the sub which is pretty obvious. I am using this with Denon 2309 receiver, the level is at -6db. Anything to check or settings to tweak? is the sub overdriven?

Hi,
Try setting the Denon's level to +4 and back off on the sub's volume. The receiver's auto set up often provides too little input signal. You may also need a larger subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Try setting the Denon's level to +4 and back off on the sub's volume. The receiver's auto set up often provides too little input signal. You may also need a larger subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Tks Curt.

I am puzzled, why will a larger sub help? You are saying that the 8" not able to drive well at the moment? my space area is ~1500cubic ft although there is a dinning area behind. Sub is by the right...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3588/3404434730_c89ca165ee_o.jpg

Tks

Dan

First try the recommended hook up info I gave you in the previous message. You must also include the cubic displacement of the dining area, so your total space may be too large for the CHT-8Q.
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks for the info curt.. i cant for the life of me figure out what this sub is ... its a single 4 ohm coil i just need specs on it so i can build a enclosure....

hi!!!! anyone have a pdf of the velodyne spl-10?

I sent you a PM with info.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks curt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is there a place where I can find the manual for an old VA 1210?

Thanks in advance
Dan

Hi,
Contact Velodyne parts at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824 or valvarez@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank you Curt!

Hi,
Contact Velodyne parts at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824 or valvarez@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Thank you sir.

Curt I did what you told me to do and wow. The setting I had where way off. I get great accuracy tight-low bass. What I needed. I was playing some movies and the extra detail is crazy. Thanks for you help:D. Im going to my bro house to help him with his DLS-5000R

So we're watching 24 two weeks ago and all of a sudden my HGS-15THX starts making a loud, low frequency popping / static noise. I jump off the couch and switch it off, then switch it back on, and it makes the same noise again. I tried it again the next day just for fun. The results were the same.

I called Velodyne, and let the service tech on the other end hear the noise over the phone. The guy said that something on the amplifier has gone out of spec and is causing the noise. He instructed me to remove the amp from the back of the sub, send it in, and they would fix it. I sent it in the next day and in the meantime hooked up a spare sub I have - an HGS-10 Series II.

Today, the repaired amp for the HGS-15 arrived at my house, ready to go back into service. Also today, as my boys were watching Wall-E, the HGS-10 failed in exactly the same way.

Something tells me that this is not a coincidence. It's certainly possible, but I don't know. Can anyone think of what might have caused this? They were plugged into the same AC outlet, and the same LFE output from my Denon AVR-5700 receiver. Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

Hi,

I recently purchased an Optimum 12 and have been playing around with it a bit over the last week.

Im using an older AVR, the Harmon Kardon AVR 20II, along with B&W M1 speakers for the mains (temporarily I hope). The HK is a Dolby ProLogic Reciever with a couple interesting features. It has a subwoofer output, as well as both Pre-outs and pre-ins (where you bridge the outs and ins to use the reciever's volume and amps). I currently have the Front line level connections going from the pre-outs to the Opt 12 inputs, and then the Opt 12 outputs back into the reviever. This allows me to use the Opt 12 crossover to prevent the M1's from getting a significant base signal.

I've inactivated the auto-power feature on the sub as well.

I noticed this weekend that with a low volume signal, the Opt 12 will cut in and out. To compensate, I turned on the "loudness" button on the amp, and that seems to have boosted the bass enough to help, but I thought that with the auto-power feature inactive, the sub shouldn't cut-out in the first place.

So, is it normal to cut-out on low signals, even if the auto-power feature is disabled? Seems strange for that to happen.

I am going to also try out the subwoofer output of the receiver, just to see how that works out.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,
AG

Hi,
There can be issues with some of the older 'Dolby Pro Logic' receivers not providing adequate input signal especially at low levels. It's not a good idea to use the 'loudness' contour with any subwoofer. Your best option may be using speaker-level hook up with your current receiver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi all, this may be a silly question but I have to ask. Could someone please explain to me how the "Phase Adjustment" works? What does that 180 degree delay means? I just got an old VA 1210 and it is my first subwoofer, so I'm trying to do things right, but a few of the settings are a bit confusing.

I'm still trying to figure where to leave my Low Pass Crossover for it to work with my Polk TSI 200 and TSI 100 speakers. Any suggestions? Subwoofer volume suggestions are also welcomed.

My receiver is a Technics SA DX1040.

Thanks in advance
Dan

Ideally you should map the FR of your sub at both settings to see which setting gives you the smoothest/least problematic response. If you want the quick and dirty answer you want the phase setting that sounds the loudest for any low frequency test tone.

hallo
i have a DD12 and the M&K 750 LRC. its play on a Lexicon rv-5 receiver.shall i use EQ in my sub ore in my receiver?
for movies .is the movies ore the theather the best preset.ore will the theather be to loss
what is the prefered presets?
regards Peter
denmark

Ideally you should map the FR of your sub at both settings to see which setting gives you the smoothest/least problematic response. If you want the quick and dirty answer you want the phase setting that sounds the loudest for any low frequency test tone.

There is a polarity and phase control with the DD which makes things even more confusing. I believe polarity is just like switching the wires of the speaker the opposite way around. This means the cone physically moves the opposite way. So if you imagine a SINE wave, as the wave moves into the positive direction on the graph, the speaker will move inwards instead of outwards. The idea of this, is to reduce interference from your main speakers and the sub for frequencies that overlap (near the crossover). All early subs had this control I believe.

Later subs now have a continuous phase control. This is NOT a polarity switch. It is AFAIK a digital delay circuit. As you increase the phase, you increase the delay. It is important to understand, that 180 on the phase control is not the same as switching the polarity. You are just shifting the SINE wave graph along in time. I believe there are poor implementations on some subs that the phase change is not linear across the frequency range. I hope and believe that is not the case with the DD.

Personally I think you should figure out which gives you the loudest sound for the two polarity settings and leave the phase control well alone. I am not sure when it provides a valuable use, but I believe it can add more complications than it solves.

Good post Jon!!

I hadn't thought about how polarity and phase control are different.

Would it be fair to say that with a continuous tone, polarity switch may equal 180 degree change in phase but would be different for non continuous sounds such as found on real content.

The subwoofer in question has a 0-180 polarity switch (only) and the loudest position would be correct or if there is no difference which is usually the case, then '0' is correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Good post Jon!!

I hadn't thought about how polarity and phase control are different.

Would it be fair to say that with a continuous tone, polarity switch may equal 180 degree change in phase but would be different for non continuous sounds such as found on real content.

Thanks :)

Yes..your understanding matches mine for a continuous tone. But I was careful to state in my posts that it was "my understanding" of the technology. I am sure someone will be quick to post if I am way off with anything I have said.

Jon,
IMO,Your explanation is correct.

Curt (928) 858-4430
or curt@velodyne.com

Does anyone know of how I can get an 1812 serviced in Chicagoland? The 12 is out for a second time for some reason. Thanks.

Steve,
You need to contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You would send in the amplifier which is easy to remove. If there is a repair facility near Chicago, they will have that information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello
I have a NAD t744 receiver and have the crossover set at 80 Hz. I set the velodyne SPL –1000R under 40 Hz. Any recommendation or ideas I can use.
It used manly for movies.

Hi,
If the crossover (80hz) is set in the receiver as it should be, then the Velodyne's crossover should be bypassed by setting it all the way to the left (120hz). The SPL's crossover cannot be set lower than 40hz and if you have it set at 40hz you are currently missing most all of the bass.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

"Two blown subs in two weeks!"

Tim,
You're probably right, it's not a coincidence. All electronic equipment is subject to failure, and heat is the culprit. Both your HGS subs use the same Power Amp Module, and the production run may not be too far off. The module has positive, and negative 15 volt power supplies that use small filtering capacitors. These probably got too hot over the years, and diminished their effectiveness. When you sent your first sub to Velodyne they replaced those, and possibly some other critical components that contributed to their failure. Most likely you got a whole new module/amp. Your HGS-10 will receive a similar repair when you send that one.

Hello,

I've had my optimum 12 for a couple months now, and it's been a great sub until just recently when it wouldn't output any sound. I've got the auto-on set to active, and it usually kicks in a few seconds after my receiver (HK AVR 330)/speakers start playing. But recently it just would not activate. The power was on, and the LED was working, but no matter what I would do it wouldn't play. I held the EQ button down, and it didn't even perform the test sweep it normally does without the Mic hooked up. I plugged in an older test subwoofer, and it worked perfectly. After about 30 minutes of going back and forth between subs, the optimum finally came back to life and started playing again.

Everything worked fine for a while, but today it did it again.....didn't activate and play any sound whatsoever. This time I played with it for about an hour with no luck. I've tried resetting the sub, leaving it off and disconnecting it completely for a while, but nothing has helped.

Any ideas as to what's going on? What worries me is that it does't even perform the test sweep when I hold down the EQ button. And when it used to work properly, it would hum when I touch the RCA cable plugged in to the LFE. But now it doesn't even do that either, it is not outputting any sound at all.

Any help would be appreciated, since this is a newer sub I haven't had any luck finding answers online so far.

Thank you.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
BTW, for the EQ test to work correctly, the mic should always be plugged in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank you for the help.

curt

Hello,

I've been doing some research on subs and need some guidance. I've been looking at the Optimum 12, the DD-12, and the JL Audio Fathom f112. It would appear that the DD-12 is an older model and does not have the automated EQ setup that the Optimum does. Between the Optimum and the DD, which is the better unit? I know a lot of people swear by the Fathom, so how does it compare to the two Velodynes?

My listening material consists of 100% movies and TV. My room is 15 wide x 20 long x 8.5 high. I am running Polk RTi series speakers in a 7.1 configuration. The floor is carpeted except for a small 1 foot tile border. The walls are 1 inch thick pine panelling with the left and rear walls consisting of curtains covering windows and the right wall consisting of built-in shelves.

I'm really looking for a sub that will get to that subterranean level of bass, the kind that you feel. The Polk sub that I have is fine, but it's only good from about 40Hz and up. You just don't feel the bass.

Any help that you could provide would be appreciated.

Hi,
Yes the DDs do have auto-eq like the Optimum, in the DD it's referred to as 'self-eq'. The DDs also have advanced auto-eq and manual-eq which the Optimum does not. Your room is about 3000 cubic feet assuming it does not have permanent openings into other rooms in which case we would need to include those measurements. For the kind of bass you say you want, I would recommend the DD-18 for your system. You could also consider the DD-15 or the new Optimum 12. It would be good if possible, to call me direct and I will be happy to spend the time to go over your issues.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt -

Is there a reasonable substitute for the microphone that's included with the DD-10?

Hi,
Since we haven't tested any other mic for this purpose, there's none I can recommend. The Velodyne mic can be purchased as a part. Since it's very important that the mic be high quality and designed to be flat to 15hz, I think any other mic would be more expensive.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I heard that there may be a replacement/upgrade for the SMS-1. Is this correct? If yes, what upgrade features will it have and when will it be shipping?

Hi,
No current plan for a replacement or upgrade.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I heard that there may be a replacement/upgrade for the SMS-1. Is this correct? If yes, what upgrade features will it have and when will it be shipping?

I am using the SMS-1 with 2 SPL-1000R's and it makes a great deal of difference in the overall smoothness of the bass while retaining the impact and feel of the subs. I definitely recommend it.

Hi,
Yes the DDs do have auto-eq like the Optimum, in the DD it's referred to as 'self-eq'. The DDs also have advanced auto-eq and manual-eq which the Optimum does not. Your room is about 3000 cubic feet assuming it does not have permanent openings into other rooms in which case we would need to include those measurements. For the kind of bass you say you want, I would recommend the DD-18 for your system. You could also consider the DD-15 or the new Optimum 12. It would be good if possible, to call me direct and I will be happy to spend the time to go over your issues.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the reply Curt. :)

I should have mentioned that the wall behind the TV and front speakers contain two doorways. I run the system with both doors open. I have tried closing both doors, but I could not tell that it made any difference in sound quality or quantity.

Also, I am limited in my placement and size of the sub. It has to placed in the left front corner, which is next to one of the doorways. That's why the Optimum 12, DD-12, or Fathom f112 seemed like good fits. Their physical dimensions are perfect for that spot.

I understand that better sub placement would be key to better bass response, but like most, I have to work with what I have.

this beast hums when it's on but stops when in use. Lately it comes on by it'self when not in use - usually I will hear a faint hum and bingo the little blue light will be on-it turns off after a while though....Sometimes I unplug the power entirely so i won't hear a hum but when i am ready to use it, it will hesitate with sound running throuh it for about a minute and then you will hear a couple of TUDS and then it's fine and will perform. Does anyone know what causes it to behave this way?

thanks in advance!

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service/repair at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Well... unfortunately I'm posting here the day after getting my sub

I just got a Velodyne Impact 12 subwoofer and it seems very low in volume. the volume level is in fact significantly lower than the paradigm I traded in, as well as the Klipsch sub - 10 I returned in order to get this.

I did not touch anything on my receiver since I unplugged my paradigm, but I did notice I had to turn the volume up fairly loud before the sub even recognized a signal. The volume on the sub are set to max, and I've tried it in multiple places in the room, which doesn't seem to help

What should I do...

Hi,
Do the following.
1) In your receiver, call all speakers 'small' and indicate you have a subwoofer.
2) In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to near maximum.
3) Use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of the sub.
4) Put the sub's phase to '0'.
5) Keep the sub's volume well below half way.
6) Place sub in or near a corner, away from any openings.
If you have questions, please call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt, what would happen if I did not have a y cable?

Do all the other things and get one tomorrow. It will play louder with one. The Impact and VX series need 'Y' splitters.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All-

I'm looking for a new subwoofer to replace my Linn SIZMIK 10.25 (500W/1000W/10"/Sealed) that's been in my pseudo-home theater room for the past 4 years. As much as I love the 10" sealed Linn, it's not giving me as much performance as I would like for movies in the environment that it is in. I've pushed it to the max where the fan inside of it is constantly on and it's popping constantly just ever so slightly above where I get those "goose-bump" effects from movies, so I've had to severely back-off on the LFE channel to make it behave.

I thought I would be close to 50/50 on "Movies" and critical "Music" listening (i.e. Jazz & Classical) in the pseudo-home theater room but now the system is virtually 95% "Movies" and 5% "Random Pop/R&B/Rap" background music so I'm planning to relocate my Linn SIZMIK 10.25 to my master bedroom system which currently has a very muddy Polk 8" subwoofer (Ported/50W) from a refurbished set of Polk RM6750's. I do almost 100% of my critical music listening in my bedroom. Since then, I've upgraded to Polk VM30's and moved my Denon AVR-3805 to my bedroom once the Onkyo TX-SR876 took over the home theater duties, but the RM6750's 8" subwoofer has remained as the .1 in the 2.1 setup and I'm sure getting rid of the Polk subwoofer and putting in the Linn instead will make a world of difference.

So in a nutshell, I need to find a subwoofer for my home theater room. To make things easier for recommendations, I've included a rudimentary drawing of the layout which explains how the room looks like but I will lay out the info here:

Pseudo Home theater room is the "Family Room" and is approximately 12.5' x 15.5' x 7.75' (About 1500 cu. ft.). The "Family Room" opens into the "Kitchen" which is about 1200 cu. ft. There is an adjoining "Flex Room" to the "Family Room" which opened by a 4' x 7.75' opening/walkway. The "Flex Room" is approximately 1300 cu. ft. The current subwoofer location is shown in the picture which would be the upper left-hand corner of the room (to the right of the FR speaker). Triad InCeiling Gold/6 Omni's are the LCR's. Polk TC610i are the surrounds and rears. Receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR876.

So which Velodyne subwoofers should I be looking at primarily for movies and "adequate" music performance for that heart-thumping LFE effects that I've been missing in the past? Recently, I've seen used CHT-12's going for a fairly inexpensive price, but if I'm looking for a new one, which ones should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers,
Kermee

P.S. All flooring on this floor (1st floor) is wooden. No carpeting at all.

Hi,
The new ones to consider, and two would be better than one, are the DEQ-15R and the DLS-5000R. These are 15" subwoofers and anything smaller cannot perform as you wish in your system. Your sub location is good.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
The new ones to consider, and two would be better than one, are the DEQ-15R and the DLS-5000R. These are 15" subwoofers and anything smaller cannot perform as you wish in your system. Your sub location is good.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks, Curt. Looking at the PDF brochures of them now.

Cheers,
Kermee

Hi,
The new ones to consider, and two would be better than one, are the DEQ-15R and the DLS-5000R. These are 15" subwoofers and anything smaller cannot perform as you wish in your system. Your sub location is good.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi, Curt. What are the main differences between the DEQ-15R and the DLS-5000R? Both look great, and similar, on paper.

Cheers,
Kermee

Hi,
The primary difference is the DEQ has multi-band auto eq. You set the included mic at listening position and push the 'eq' button and in a few seconds the sub is eq'd to your room. The DEQ also has a front panel LED readout for volume number and other settings. Both have a hand held remote control. Performance for the two is about the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I own a DLS 3750R and i would like to know which setting should i have it on while running Audessy... Its connected to an Onkyo 605... Its mostly being used for Gaming and Movies.

Hi,
Use preset #3 when running the receivers auto set-up system.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks, should i turn the knob to Direct? And if I use a Y splitter would it give me a better signal?

Hi,
The crossover should be set in the receiver, so set the Velodyne's crossover to 'direct', and phase at '0'. A 'Y' splitter is a good idea. The sub's volume should be at factory default or below.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I'm pretty close to selecting a subwoofer, today.

It's between the Velodyne DEQ-15R and the SVS PB12-NSD. Anyone have any thoughts?

Cheers,
Kermee

Hi,
As an official Velodyne support thread, this has to be about Velodyne products. I will only say check the features. After using a hand held remote control for tweaking from listening position, I could never go back. The DEQ-R series is the least expensive subwoofer to offer auto multi-band room eq, and other DSP bass management features like multi phase adjustment, 4 presets, volume up and down, mute and a night mode all on that remote contol.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi -

I'm currently running the Velo DLS-4000R. The room is 3750 cubic ft. opening onto a downstairs. I understand there are benefits to running two subs. I would probably need to stack the two subs. Can you reccomend another Velo in this situration, or is it even necessary? Bass sounds great but it is a little directiional.

Thanks

Your sub is small for the area. When using two subs it is best to use two of the same model.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Your sub is small for the area. When using two subs it is best to use two of the same model.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Would a DLS 3500R stacked on the 4000R be a good sollution?

No, that would not help. The larger sub has way more output. It would be a big mismatch.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
The crossover should be set in the receiver, so set the Velodyne's crossover to 'direct', and phase at '0'. A 'Y' splitter is a good idea. The sub's volume should be at factory default or below.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430


Im having trouble finding a 'Y' Splitter, mine pointing me in the right direction... Bestbuy had no idea what i was talking about.

Im having trouble finding a 'Y' Splitter, mine pointing me in the right direction... Bestbuy had no idea what i was talking about.

Curt will have to chime in to see if the spacing between the two female RCA jacks will work with this on your DLS-3750R:

Monoprice: RCA Video Audio Splitter Adapter (RCA Female to 2 RCA Male) (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040107&p_id=2879&seq=1)

I used that with this:

Monoprice: 6ft High-Quality RCA CL2 Rated-Cable - RG6/U 75ohm (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=2)

... and the splitter fits perfectly on the L/R ports of a subwoofer that I currently have.

But I'm assuming you already have a subwoofer cable so all you really need is something like this:

http://www.summitsource.com/product_thumb.php?img=images/products/CVR201.jpg&w=150&h=124

Hope this helps and maybe Curt can give you some clarification.

Cheers,
Kermee

That will work fine. Radio Shack also has them and I'll bet they have them at Best Buy too if you talked to the right person.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Y-Splitter:

Radio Shack Catalog #: 42-2535 (usually available in stores)

Best Buy SKU #: 8424289 (usually available in stores)

Cheers,
Kermee

Awesome... Thanks guys, i dont have a radio shack near by. 5 Guys at best buy said sub doesnt need that kind of connection. Then he said my sub needs one cable to work. I told them yes i know that. Im just looking for Y adapter with 2 males 1 female and they said they dont carry it. They had 2 female to 1 male though....

Also ive been searching Monoprice but man i could not find it. Thanks for the link Kermee ( i just saw the link, i think the spacing is probably not going to work) :( ....

Hello, Curt.

I purchased the Velodyne MiniVee some time ago, and have been extremely happy with it in my apartment-sized space. In fact, I was so happy that I picked up an Impact-Mini last week to use with the NuForce Icon-1/S-1 system at my PC, and have also found it to be a hidden low-distortion gem that's great for bedroom-sized areas (though not quite as musical as the MiniVee). So I'm already a two-time Velodyne customer.

I do have a question about the driver in the MiniVee. Is it exactly the same driver as used in the Optimum-8? I ask because I remember reading that the drivers in the Optimum series use the dual-tandem voice coil design. Does the MiniVee 8" driver also use the dual-tandem design?

Curt C

Thanks you for your help but I have another question. Friend came over and told him that you improved my sub performance and was blown away with the sound. Now he wants some help on his sub. He owns a CHT-10 these are the setting he using. #1 Has speaker set to small, #2 Not using a Y-splitter only the right input, #3 crossover set to 90Hz on sub amp #4 gain is set to max.

Thanks agin

Hi,
I recommend he use a 'Y' splitter, increase the volume in the receiver for the subwoofer channel and keep the sub's volume well under half way. A Velodyne sub should never be run at or near maximum.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Taterworks,
The MiniVee has the same driver as the discontinued SPL-800R. The new Optimum series have an all new driver design.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,
How would a DD-18 match-up to a HGS-18 Series 2 THX. I own the HGS and have been looking for a second HGS and I happened to run into a great deal on a DD-18. Do you think they would blend well or would be a complete mismatch. Thanks.
GS

Hi,
Actually it's a great match. They are fairly close in output. When set up properly you can EQ the room via the DD with both units playing. It will be a great combination and is currently used in many systems.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks, Curt, for all of your help. UPS dropped off a present for me today...

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2066/velodynedeq15rsmaller.png

I'd like to welcome Mr. Velodyne DEQ-15R to my family! So far without even tweaking (drop-in replacement with the Linn SIZMIK 10.25), it's sounding AWESOME even on music! I'll tweak it and clean up the cabling later...

Thanks, everyone!

Cheers,
Eemrek

Hi Curt,

We have communicated before and have valued your advice. I now have another question to ask you and hope you can help.
I have an spl 1200u and in the process of getting another, as discussed in an earlier email (I live in Aus). I would like to have one sub do some multi tasking, HT and music. I have an amp with one set of pre outs, a Denon receiver with a sub out and as you know a 1200u with L/R inputs. I can manually remove the y splitter from the sub to the receiver and replace the cable with RCA leads going from the amp to the sub for music. Can you suggest other methods, ie switcher boxes or y adators to permanently have cables connected rather than having to remove and replace cables for music and ht.

Hi,
A switcher box (passive or active) would work, I just don't know of any current models. An older inexpensive preamp would also do the job. Any device with line level inputs and at least one output with the ability to switch between inputs is what you need. Perhaps someone else is aware of such a unit, if so please help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi!!!!
when using two velodyne subs do i set one to zero for phase and the other to 180'?

Hi,
It can depend on the location of the two subs. Most often, '0' phase on both will be fine. I would play some good bass material at a medium level and then switch one of the subs to '180'. If the bass is louder then use that setting. If you don't notice a difference, set them both at '0' phase.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am looking for a subwoofer and have currently narrow down to these 3 subs.
Velodyne CHT-12Q
REL T1
JBL ES250SP

Anyone can help me decide which is a better sub?

Hi,
I am not familiar with the other two subs and as an 'Official Velodyne Support' thread it is not appropriate to compare other brands. I will say check the features. The CHT-12Q (DEQ-12R in U.S.) has DSP for auto room EQ, volume up and down, presets, phase adjustment, mute. LED readout, and a night mode. All of these bass management functions are controlled by a hand held remote control. Once you have the ability to fine tune the sub from listening position, there's no going back.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Are the CHT-12Q and the DEQ-12R the same product? They are listed as 2 different product in the velodyne homepage. Please clarify.

The DEQ-12R is the U.S. (110V) version while the CHT-12Q is the International (220V) version. Otherwise the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks

Hi everybody,does anyone know what kind of woofer the CT-41 satelitte has?It's a 4,5"
driver and I just blew one and have absolutely no idea what the replacement is...
Help is trully appreciated!!!

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at: 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see if a replacement speaker is available.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hi,
curt c i have a question. i have read in various articles that one should not postion there seating area in the middle of a room due to that particular pressure zone. well, unfortunatly my room is only able to have seating directly in the middle of the room..... the bass sounds so lean and flat, yet, in other positions it sounds awesome!!!!my ht room is the frog of the house so basically a square. im currently using two velodyne subs (hgs-12x & spl10). i have one positioned at the side of the room and the other in a corner to the back left. still getting that area of pressure where bass almost nullifies. what should i do?

Hi,
Yes, in the middle of a square room is a problem. I've never had much luck with the sub
positioning you're using. I would try both in the front, or both in the rear to start with. Another possibility is both together in the front or rear, stacked or side by side. Sometimes one on each side wall works well. Your subs are different as to size and output so that makes it a little harder. There's also the crawl method, place the HGS at listening position, play some good bass and crawl (or walk) around the room and mark the spot (or two spots) where the bass is best and place the subs at that location or locations. In your case sub location is everything, so experiment. If this isn't clear, call me direct if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 Or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Yes, in the middle of a square room is a problem. I've never had much luck with the sub
positioning you're using. I would try both in the front, or both in the rear to start with. Another possibility is both together in the front or rear, stacked or side by side. Sometimes one on each side wall works well. Your subs are different as to size and output so that makes it a little harder. There's also the crawl method, place the HGS at listening position, play some good bass and crawl (or walk) around the room and mark the spot (or two spots) where the bass is best and place the subs at that location or locations. In your case sub location is everything, so experiment. If this isn't clear, call me direct if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 Or curt@velodyne.com

curt
you are the best. i will try your ideas this weekend!!!!!!

Hi. I have a Deco 8 speaker system, with the Deco 8 subwoofer. Recently when I turned on my sound system the sub just crackles, with an occasional boom in time with the music. I've never used it at a loud volume (because of the neighbors ;-) and I can't think of anything that might have precipitated this problem. I have turned it off until I can figure out what exactly the problem is. It's connected to an Onkyo TX-SR602 using the RCA cable that came with it, plugged into the LFEin jack. Everything appears brand new, meaning the speaker itself looks fine. Where should I start in order to diagnose this?

TIA.

Hi,
The amplifier will need service. Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Only the amp, which is easily removed would be sent in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I have a 10" velodyne speaker, just the driver...it has the part no 71-010 7T44J. May i know which velodyne series was this for?

I had bought a DD-15 last year(she works great)but I found after a few months the blue Velodyne light loses it's brightness(quite dim now).
I have heard that's just the way it is.I had purchased another one this winter and am expecting the same thing as I was told.You would think,just like our
components,preamps,amps,cdp,ect,which the displays stay at their original brightness,that when you spend 3000.00 on a sub that a small thing such as a
display light would be a no Brainer:(..
I do like my DDs and I also like the eye candy appeal of the velodyne logo.
There,now that's off my mind,i can spin some discs.

Hi,
I have forwarded your message to the Engineering and Quality Control people at Velodyne. Thanks for the feedback.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks Curt.

I had bought a DD-15 last year(she works great)but I found after a few months the blue Velodyne light loses it's brightness(quite dim now).
I have heard that's just the way it is.I had purchased another one this winter and am expecting the same thing as I was told.You would think,just like our
components,preamps,amps,cdp,ect,which the displays stay at their original brightness,that when you spend 3000.00 on a sub that a small thing such as a
display light would be a no Brainer:(..
I do like my DDs and I also like the eye candy appeal of the velodyne logo.
There,now that's off my mind,i can spin some discs.

I can definitely second that. I have noticed the same thing with my DDs. I use could be able sit at my seating position and see the blue Velodyne on the sub; but, now it's a blur. It's getting harder and harder to really see now. I did have my eyes checked and my vision is very near perfect.

ninja12, Senior Member:
It's getting harder and harder to really see now. I did have my eyes checked

LOL! :p

So guys,does it bother you that the light fades.
The subs perform great BUTTTTT.An led seems like such a simple matter especially when it looks great at night.Maybe Velodyne has a FIX.

Drummermitchell,
I just went through this problem with my 2 newer DD-18s and older DD-15. They have two different "types" of these logos. The original ones are relatively easy to replace, but the newer ones were supposed to last longer and are next to impossible to replace without getting a new faceplate.

Unfortunately, the newer logos do no last much longer. My started fading within 6 months and were barely visible after a year. It was a nuisance because I could not see their settings without hooking up a display.

Best advice is to leave the logo off by default as this will extend their useful life. My understanding is that they are not LED based which is unfortunate. Too bad they do not use the newer LED bulbs which would give them the same effect but would last a long time.

You would think for a simple display light and a company that's been around for a long time,would at least get that right.I have an old cdp(telefunken)which I leave on 24/7 and the display is as bright as ever(a good 8 yrs.).
I guess this type of quality bothers me more than I thought.
At least my other components shed alot of light on the the basics of quality.
Good thing my headlights stay bright at night on my 93 chev van(450.00),
3000.00 and velodyne can't get that right.I'll probably be booted off the site,
so be it.

Drummermitchell,
I just went through this problem with my 2 newer DD-18s and older DD-15. They have two different "types" of these logos. The original ones are relatively easy to replace, but the newer ones were supposed to last longer and are next to impossible to replace without getting a new faceplate...


Nikki, I bought my DD-18 towards the end of 2005 and am interested in replacing the light. Would mine be one of the easier ones, or one of the next to impossible ones? Thanks.

Drummermitchell,
It has been a minor annoyance for me, but they have been very helpful with my concerns and the support provided by Curt in this forum is great. I agree the logo is a bummer and it would be nice to see a real fix for it however.

DukesTravels,
My DD-15 was built in 2006 so I would assume your DD-18 uses the older style logo. Pete Lewis in tech support helped me with this problem so I would suggest giving him a call.

Thanks for that,I'll check it out.
I did try customer support and all I got was,that's the way it is.of course that
person didn't seem to give a rat's ass.I'll try them tomorrow,Thanks.

I have a SPL-1000 which is almost four years old. About two weeks ago I started hearing a very loud crackling sound when I powered my system on. Today it died. No power at all. Any suggestions on the potential problem and whether this is worth a fix? I checked the Velodyne web site and there are no service centers in Southern California.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for an estimate on your repair. You would only send in the amplifier which is easily removed. IMO, it is worth repairing.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

Thanks for the quick response. I contacted Velodyne this morning and will be returning the amplifier for service.

Hi, im new here and a new velodyne owner!
After my spl1000R with 230v + 50hz + 6.3AL blows the seller gave me a new sub but in the back i see : 230v + 50hz + F 4AL and model : SPL10RBGE ??
i don`t know if it is the right model or a discontinued and less powerfull model....
can anyone tell me if theres some difference bettween spl1000r and SPL10R or just simply they are the same?

Thanks a lot! really!!

Hi,
It is the same model. Some SPL 10 inch subwoofer amps are marked SPL-1000R and others are marked SPL-10R. The BGE stands for 'Black Gloss European', and the 'R' indicates remote control.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi curt!!! thanks a lot! i was really confuse about that, but, why the fuse diference? 6.3AL against 4AL
by the way it seems that the replace unit sounds a bit different, less hitting and less powerfull with the same config.
the defective unit was august 2008 and the replace is jul 2006.

Thanks again man!! you rock!

Hi,
It is the same model. Some SPL 10 inch subwoofer amps are marked SPL-1000R and others are marked SPL-10R. The BGE stands for 'Black Gloss European', and the 'R' indicates remote control.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I'm not sure why the fuse difference though I'm sure either will be fine with 230V. If you want the fuse explanation, please contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com as I don't have that info and the service department is at a different location. There was no difference in amp power between 2006 and 2008 and they should perform the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430.

DukesTravels,
My DD-15 was built in 2006 so I would assume your DD-18 uses the older style logo. Pete Lewis in tech support helped me with this problem so I would suggest giving him a call.

Thanks again.

My DD-18 emits a clearly audible hum when I connect it to my Panasonic plasma with an S-video cable. Yeah, I know, just disconnect the cable:)

So how can I see the setup menu on my TV without the hum, because I don't think I'll get a good equalizer setting with this hum going on during calibration?

Hi,
I've never heard of this problem before so I would try a different cable or use the composite hook-up if your TV will accept it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello

Will a CT-100 match with a SPL-1000R for a second sub

Hi,
I would not recommend the mix. The SPL is a sealed box sub designed for very accurate sound at the expense of output. The CT-100 is a bass reflex (port or slot) sub designed for maximum output. Their effiencies and sonics are different. If you already own both, you could certainly give it a try but I would not purchase one to go with the other.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
In another thread, we have discussed the Velo subs that are equivalent to the SPL-R series. Some have said the SPL series has been discontinued, but there is no mention of this on the Velo site. Someone thinks the Mini Vee and Mini Vee-10 are the replacements and I say it is the Optimum series. The Mini only shows an 8" and a 10" and the Optimum shows an 8", 10" and a 12". There doesn't appear to be a 15" until you go to the DDs.

Hi,
The SPL-R series is discontinued and has been replaced by the new Optimum line. The MiniVee 8 and 10 are plain (no DSP or remote) versions of the SPLs and are still in the line. The MiniVees are valuable for built-in and hidden applications. For now, there is no Optimum 15. I'm not sure if there will be one in the future or not. There are still some SPL-1500Rs in stock.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The SPL-R series is discontinued and has been replaced by the new Optimum line. The MiniVee 8 and 10 are plain (no DSP or remote) versions of the SPLs and are still in the line. The MiniVees are valuable for built-in and hidden applications. For now, there is no Optimum 15. I'm not sure if there will be one in the future or not. There are still some SPL-1500Rs in stock.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.comThat's what I deduced. The Optimum has DSP, built in EQ (an additional band), remote, and a larger amp. The Mini Vee is, for lack of a better term, a dumbed-down version of the SPL, but certainly not a replacement.

I'll take 'plain' or 'vanilla' to 'dumbed down'. There are situations where you don't use the features (built-in, hidden, etc.) so you could get the raw performance at a lesser price. The MiniVees have been very popular for Custom Installers and computer and bedroom systems where high quality is desired for a smaller area.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

My DLS-5000R amplifier has failed (no output). It is out of warranty, so I'd like to fix the amp myself. I do have necessary skills, equipment, etc.

The question is: where can I get a service manual for the DLS-5000R subwoofer? Does Velodyne sell or provide these manuals?

Thank you!

Eugen.

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see what help is available.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

I have a CHT-12Q. What's the best connection to use to the sub from my AV receiver? Currently I'm running a single RCA to the LFE in. Some people have mentioned using a Y-splitter.

Also, any recommendations about placement in my room? Should I put it in a corner?

Hi,
I too recommend a 'Y' splitter into both inputs. If your room is medium to large or opens into other rooms, then I would start with a corner placement. If you feel the response is too boomy, then move it out some along the wall, away from the corner.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the reply. Could you explain why a Y splitter works better than the single LFE in?

I'll try the corner placement and see how it goes from there.

Hi,
A 'Y' splitter provides more input so the subs volume can be somewhat lower. I also recommend raising the volume for the subwoofer channel in the receiver to above half way for the same reason.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the explanation.

hey curt would this work with a dps 10?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FM - I was a store manager for a local big box store many years ago and we sold more subwoofers than anyone in our area at that time. One reason was that the first display that you saw when you walked into our store was a 40" Mitsubishi tube TV (remember those beasts?) playing an action scene of a popular movie, with a $450.00 subwoofer attached. That's it! Just the TV speakers and an average subwoofer!

"There's no trick to it at all. You don't need a sub out on the TV. Just a pair of variable audio outputs on the TV connected directly to the subwoofer's line level inputs and voila', BIG, FULL sound from almost any television.

NOTE: The subwoofers line inputs (RCA connectors) take a full range signal and then run it through a simple electronic x-over to lop off all the high frequencies. The crossover "Freq." knob on the back of most subs is the one that makes the adjustment of how far up in the audio range the subwoofer operates. A combination of this and the "level" control will aid you in matching the subwoofer/TV speaker volume and sound quality."
this came from another thread. also can you explain the possible connections from an onkyo 605? is the sub out the only connection possibility?

Hi,
Yes the DPS will work with a TV that has audio output jacks just as described. I'm not sure about the last part of your question. If you have a A/V receiver, then the sub out jack is the best method. The first part describes just a TV set with a subwoofer. Most people are not satisfied with the very limited quality of built-in TV speakers. I can tell you mine are very poor and I find that to be the norm. There are however some excellent sound bar speakers at reasonable prices that hook directly to the TV wirhout the need of surround receiver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I know that this has probably been covered elsewhere, but cannot find it... I've had a ULD-15Mk1 for a couple of years now and it has been working just great. Just last week I switched it on and about 5-7 seconds after turning it on, it goes into loud feedback. Any idea what the problem is? Potential solutions?

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see if any repair can be done to you ULD, or other options.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Long time listener, first time poster. My VX-10B was purchased in Nov. 2007 and has been consistently awesome for my needs. A week ago, it just would not turn on. Checked the two on-board fuses and they were fried. Replaced fuses and they fried immediately. Tried all troubleshooting steps, but nothing has worked. Was plugged into a Monster power strip and no other components or speakers are having any issues whatsoever. The VX-10 was hooked up through speaker-level jacks to the Polk R50s which are fine. Replaced with old sub, and that works just fine. Ideas?

Thank you so much!

Scott

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne .com. The amplifier (only) will need to be sent in for repair. The sub is under warranty.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Good day,

I am new to this thread and I am in dire need of help. I purchase this unit a week ago. I was not able to set it up until last night. I plug it in and all was fine. But then all of a sudden: nothing! I went to the test Zone of my Yamaha RXV-1900 and did the full test and all was getting a signal, except the Sub. So I plugged back my old sub and the signal was there. Plug it right back nothing.

So I left it till this morning, first thing I did was test the zones and it was receiving it. I played the Batman: The Dark Night as we all know the intro is quite nice. All played well for the few minutes I watch it. Then I decided to play some music to see how it sounds. No Sub again. I played witht the settings as instructed with the Velo and with my Yamaha manuals. If it is working at all times with my old sub, is there something I am missing with DPS-12?

This is quite frustrating as I do not have any idea why this is doing this and there seems to be no logical reason at this time for this to be happening!

I wait for your response.

Thank You!

SatG.

FYI: As I was writing this post, I had left the Sub DPS-12 unplugged from power. I just went back and plugged it and ran the Zone Test for signal from my AV. It receveives the signal and you can hear the rumble very nicely. So I inserted a Santana DVD and started to play and the sub was kicking well and then just stopped! There is definitly a problem in my opinion.
Thank you!

Hi,
If the receiver is not set up correctly, the subwoofer channel will not receive a signal when playing music. In the receiver make sure the front speakers are designated as 'small' and the receiver is aware you have a subwoofer. If the front speakers are set to large, it may not send a signal to the sub when playing music. I would also do a sub reset by pressing the presets from left to right and back (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1) to make sure the sub's volume is not too high. Also make sure the volume for the subwoofer channel in the Yamaha is set well above half way. We know the subwoofer works, it's just that the receiver may not be sending a signal at all times. If none of this works, call me tomorrow, if possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

HI Curt,

Thanks for the prompt reply. When you mentioned the reset, how do I apply this to the sub. The only controls I have on the sub are digital push buttons and the sequence is Movie; R & B/Rock; Volume(Lower) ; Night; Volume(Higher); Jazz/Classical & Games.

I have set the front speakers to small and made sure the sub is identified as you suggested. The only part I did not do is the y splitter. As soon as I have it I will connect it. In the meantime, I have simply conncected the left channel.

Thank You very much!

Sat

Hi,
Count the presets from left to right, movies being #1, R&B/Rock #2, Jazz/classical #3 and games #4. Then push the presets one at a time in the following order: 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1. It should then blink a few times and everything is reset to factory settings.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Ok Curt,

Here is the deal:
I had to go out for some shopping with the wife! We all know that is! LOL! I left the SUB on (and the light were still on when I came back a few hours later) and everything else was off. (Does the SUB go into sleep mode at some point?)

After Sub reset...the Night light blinked 3 times and then it was set to Jazz/Classical

1 - I changed it to Movies
2 - Dial set to Direct
3 - Phase Switch set to O degrees
4 - LFE RCA on the LEFT Channel

AV Settings:

Speaker Config:

1 - LFE/Bass Out (SWFR, FRONT or BOTH) Set to SWFR
2 - Front SPKR: set to SMALL
3 - Center SPKR: Set to SMALL
4 - SUR. L/R SPKR: Set to SMALL
5 - SUR. BACK: NONE
6 - PRESENCE SPKR: NONE
7 - CROSS OVER: 80hz
8 - SWFR (Normal or Reverse): Set to NORMAL

I did a Zone TEST and all was working except the SUB. I also change the sub back to the old one and it was working! :-)

So I decided to recheck the SUB after a full turn off and unplugged from the AC. About 10 minutes later, plugged and turned on the sub and it was working fine with the setting mentionned above. About 12-15 minutes later, no SUB at all. I think I heard a few faint poping sound, but I am not sure. I turned it off again (switch and AV plug out) for about another 20 minutes. Turned it back on and (i timed it) 14 minutes and that was it, no SUB at all.

Any ideas?

Sat

i have a 3300 cubic foot room. right now i use a vrp-1200 for hometheater.

due to room changes, and an opportunity, i may possible eliminate the vrp and go with a minivee 10.

what if anything with i notice. good or bad.

thanks for the input..


right now the vrp is in the front listening area.

new layout the sub (minivee 10) will be next to/hidden by the couch...

Hi,
The MiniVee is much too small for your room. If you want a small high-tech sub I would recommend the Optimum-12. Your current sub will play louder than the MiniVee, and it too is small for your area.
Other recommendations would be the DEQ-12 or better yet the DEQ-15.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

SatG
Take your sub back to the dealer for a check and possible exchange. To activate the auto on/off push down presets #1 and #4 at the same time for about one second. The subwoofer will then go into standby after about 8-10 minutes with no signal.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey guys, I have a question for you....I have a chance to pick up a AV123 MFW-15 Subwoofer locally for $200. Do you think it will be much better than a Velodyne DPS-10?

Thanks!

Hi,
As the 'Official Velodyne Support' thread, comparison or discussion of other products is not part of the agenda. There are other threads for that. Thanks for your cooperation.
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The MiniVee is much too small for your room. If you want a small high-tech sub I would recommend the Optimum-12. Your current sub will play louder than the MiniVee, and it too is small for your area.
Other recommendations would be the DEQ-12 or better yet the DEQ-15.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

did not expect that all..????


the minivee 10 has a 2" smaller driver but 1000w compared to 130w, with hertz not even in the same ballpark. i understand size means something but wow.

is there a reason you have for this other than size, or am i missing something. ???

Hi,
The thing you are missing is the design. The MiniVee is a very small sealed box, while the VRP, DEQ, and DLS series are larger high-efficient (plays loud) bass reflex designs. The small sealed box MiniVee requires a lot of power while the bass reflex designs do not. In your earlier message you said 'MiniVee' (not MiniVee-10) which has an 8" woofer. The MiniVee-10 will play close to the maximum output of your VRP-12. The Optimum-12 will do a far better job if you want a small sealed box subwoofer. Otherwise I would look at DEQ-12R or DEQ-15R. Your 3300 Cubic foot room calls for a large subwoofer. We supply recommendations at: www.velodyne.com, then 'which product' and 'selection wizard'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

i got hgs 15 amp and driver is sombody have cabinet drawing do amp have separate chamber or is like hgs 15 in one space ???
Darek

Will my DD18's perform better for HT if I change the adjustable subsonic filters slopes from 24 dB to 6 dB per octave?

John

Hi,
For the DD-18 a 24db slope is best and a 6db slope will not sound better.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

When is the new DD series due out?

Hi,
There is no date. It's still in the planning stage.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I just purchased a used DD-18 off of eBay and finally got it setup last night. Unfortunately, it is not functioning correctly. I already had a DD-18 that I bought new, and I just moved the input cable from that to the new one to test it. All I hear when playing audio through it is a "popping" noise. I am fairly certain that the amp is blown, since I had a similar sympton with one of my HGS-12s a while back. I also noticed that the used 18 was turned to max volume when I first turned it on which I expect is a bad sign...

If this is the amp, can I just send it in to be repaired or get a replacement amp from Velodyne and install it myself? If so, any idea of the cost? I don't even want to THINK about having to ship this monster back for repair!!

Thanks!

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You are correct the volume should never be any where near maximum. You would just return the amplifier for repair. The repair department will provide an estimate and instructions for the return.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hey curt c, i currently have a Velodyne SPL 12BV sub which i bought in 2001. I am thinking of buying the DEQ-15R, will that be a good match? Thx

Hi,
By a 'good match', I assume you mean will they work well together. It's not a good match in that the design and performance is quite different. Your SPL is a small sealed box design while the DEQ-15R is a bass reflex design which will play much louder and have a somewhat fuller sound. It's much easier to use the same model or type when combining subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,

I am close to purchasing a new sub and I am considering the Optimum-12 and the SPL-1500R.

The Optimum-12 is newer, has EQ with 7 bands (instead of the SPL-R series 6 bands) and slightly more power (1200W to 1000W).

Even though the SPL-1500r is an older model, it does have a larger driver and should be able to go lower.

Does anyone have experience with either of these subs they would like to share?

Thanks!

Hi,
I'll send you a PM with my answer.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You are correct the volume should never be any where near maximum. You would just return the amplifier for repair. The repair department will provide an estimate and instructions for the return.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks a lot Curt! I've already been in contact with David Santos at Velodyne and he told me what to do.

Thanks again!

Hello,

An intermittent problem with the remote control operations.
Switching on the DD first, via remote standby, provides the regular speedy remote control responses.
Switching on the TV first, via its remote control, followed by the DD, usually results in very sluggish DD remote control responses; whether it be preset selection, menu operations, etc. Sometimes remote buttons have to be pressed repeatedly before any reaction. Sometimes aiming away from the sub's remote sensor can achieve a result.

Has anyone else noticed this phenomenon?

Is it a case of conflicting remote control frequencies (TV/DD?)
What would be the remedy? - other than moving the DD away from its current position which would not be ideal.
I haven’t tried shielding part of the remote window, or any other measure. I thought I’d get a consensus first.

The 60 inch display sits at the front of the room and the right main speaker stands to the right of the screen. The DD is currently just to the right of the main speaker, facing the operator’s “sweet spot”.

Hi,
I have never heard of a TV being on first, interfering with the DD's remote capability. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Velodyne does offer an optional remote extender kit which plugs into the back of the DD and will extend the location of the receiving eye up to 20 feet. I don't know if this will help or not.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have a DSL-3740R (several years old) in our family room setup. It has started making a "popping" noise when on. I am not using AUTO. Any suggestions? Thanks. SJ

Hi,
On Monday please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. The amplifier will need to be sent in for repair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello,

An intermittent problem with the remote control operations.
Switching on the DD first, via remote standby, provides the regular speedy remote control responses.
Switching on the TV first, via its remote control, followed by the DD, usually results in very sluggish DD remote control responses; whether it be preset selection, menu operations, etc. Sometimes remote buttons have to be pressed repeatedly before any reaction. Sometimes aiming away from the sub's remote sensor can achieve a result.

Has anyone else noticed this phenomenon?

Is it a case of conflicting remote control frequencies (TV/DD?)
What would be the remedy? - other than moving the DD away from its current position which would not be ideal.
I haven’t tried shielding part of the remote window, or any other measure. I thought I’d get a consensus first.

The 60 inch display sits at the front of the room and the right main speaker stands to the right of the screen. The DD is currently just to the right of the main speaker, facing the operator’s “sweet spot”.

Is the display a plasma by any chance?

Some displays put out absolutely absurd amounts of radiation including the infra-red band which can affect the remote control of other devices.

Hi,
I have never heard of a TV being on first, interfering with the DD's remote capability. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Velodyne does offer an optional remote extender kit which plugs into the back of the DD and will extend the location of the receiving eye up to 20 feet. I don't know if this will help or not.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

curt c,

Thank you for your suggestion.
In the face of a possibly rare conflict of circumstance, I will source the remote extension. It will surely remedy the problem.

Another question:
Which is the best way to go - regarding connection from the receiver?

1. single coax from “mono” sub out to R input on the DD?

2. single coax from “mono” sub out to “Y” splitter; then to the L + R inputs on the DD?

3. dual coax from "split" sub outs to L + R inputs on the DD?

Your advice is appreciated.

Is the display a plasma by any chance?

Some displays put out absolutely absurd amounts of radiation including the infra-red band which can affect the remote control of other devices.

It is an SXRD (rearpro) - but your comment could well apply.
Hopefully the remote extender can be placed where there is no effect.
Thank you for your observation.

Hi,
I have never heard of a TV being on first, interfering with the DD's remote capability. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Velodyne does offer an optional remote extender kit which plugs into the back of the DD and will extend the location of the receiving eye up to 20 feet. I don't know if this will help or not.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


Curt.C.

Thank you for your suggestion.
In the face of a possibly rare conflict of circumstance, I will source the remote extension. It will surely remedy the problem.

Another question:
Which is the best way to go - regarding connection from the receiver?

1. single coax from “mono” sub out to R input on the DD?

2. single coax from “mono” sub out to “Y” splitter; then to the L + R inputs on the DD?

3. dual coax from “split” sub outs to L + R inputs on the DD?

Your advice is appreciated.

(Thank you Curt - I thought I'd responded to your suggestion earlier but it hasn't appeared as a post).

I haven’t tried shielding part of the remote window, or any other measure. I thought I’d get a consensus first.

I've run into similar problems with other devices and IR repeater systems around Plasma's or LCD's. Try this and see if it works. Take some blue painters tape. cover the IR receiver on the Velodyne with a layer of tape. See if it helps. Keep applying layers of tape if necessary. Believe it or not, this worked in my application. Your situation is a little different, but it's cheap and worth a try.

Chris

......Take some blue painters tape. cover the IR receiver on the Velodyne with a layer of tape. See if it helps. Keep applying layers of tape if necessary......
Chris
Good suggestion.
I now have options.
I'll keep you posted.

Which is the best way to go - regarding connection from the receiver?


This seems to be the most frequently asked question in this thread. Just run one cable and use a y splitter at the sub.

Chris

My recommendation is a single cable with a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer inputs. It's what I always use.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Chris,

You helped me a few days ago diagnose a problem with the amp on a used DD-18 I bought. I have also had a similar problem with one of my HGS-12s in the past. Is there anything that I can do (or not do) to preserve or prolong the life of my amps? What is the most common cause of these things dying, age or mistreatment?

I now have 2 HGS-12s (and an SMS-1 unit) in my living room and soon to have 2 DD-18s in my dedicated HT on the theory that I will get the bass I want without having to turn the power up as much as with one. I'm hoping that this will help keep these things from blowing prematurely, but what is the "expected" lifespan of the amps?

Thanks for all of your help!

Hi,
There's no way to predict the life span of an amplifier. Those that are pushed harder will generally fail sooner. Personally I feel if a subwoofer has performed well for 5 years, it's paid it's way but I have plently that have gone beyond 10 years. Heat is usually the culprit. In general I recommend providing plenty of input by raising the volume for the subwoofer channel in the receiver and using a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks and keeping the sub's volume lower. If needed, please feel free to call me direct regarding subwoofer set up. I do want to keep them operating correctly for as long as possible.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,
I purchased a used DLS-3750R and hooked it up via the speaker-level connections. I chose this connection to take advantage of the internal crossovers (my BD player is fixed at 120hz, main speakers flat to low 40s). Since connecting the sub, the output from the main L/R speakers appears significantly diminished (roughly -4dB on radio shack spl meter). Is this normal/expected? If so, I'm happy to recalibrate my setup. I just want to make sure this isn't evidence of a problem (since the unit is used). Thanks,