When there is no audible difference, use '0'. In most cases '0' will be correct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt!

I have an old ULD12 mated w/ a pair of KEF 103/4 mains, KEF 100 center and Definitive Technology bipole surrounds. The ULD12 is still going strong, but some of the newer auto setup programs (Yamaha's YPAO) want to set the sub crossover at 100Hz. I've checked the ULD12 and see that it has a built in crossover at 85Hz. Is there anyway to bypass this?

As a workaround I have the ULD12 controlling connected inline between the Yamaha receiver preouts and a NAD 2600 powering the KEF 103/4 mains. The Yamaha is set for "no sub", so it diverts the center and surround base to the fronts, then the ULD12 controller takes care of the sub crossover and the area between 85Hz and 100Hz is handled by the fronts. Is this the best configuration?

Hi,
The difference between 85hz and 100hz isn't much. If you want to change the crossover in the ULD-12 controller, contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for the instruction sheet. It will require changing some resistors and solder work.
Your current hook-up seems to be a good workaround.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne

I am trying to upgrade my (2) DD-18's to the 2.2.2 firmware. First time i have tried doing so. I am using my notebook, with a USB to Serial adapter. I keep getting a error "unable to open file '. Error=0x0000003"

any ideas/tricks??

thanks

All I know is some adapters are more of a problem than others. Mine from Radio Shack came with a CD that had to be loaded and I also had to disconnect all other USB items for it to recognize the port.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

fresh123,

You did install the driver for your USB to Serial adapter?

At CEDIA this Friday, I saw the SMS-1 on a display stand with FW listed as 2.1.4; yet 2.1.3 is the present version shown on the website as the latest version.

Is there a new FW, 2.1.4, for the SMS-1 that will soon be available? If so, Curt, do you know what it does differently?

I will check. I'm not aware of a 2.1.4.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

fresh123,

You did install the driver for your USB to Serial adapter?
yes... i actually tried 2 different USB-serial cables. One is the Keyspan USA-19HS, and the other was from SiiS (i think). I am usign Windows XP (32 bit) and i installed drivers for both. I have used the same setup to update firmware for my Anthem pre/pro, but have not been able to get the firmware to load on the velodyne.

thanks.

quick update. I got it to WORK. I changed computers to a new one with WIndows Vista. Now have 2.2.2 up and going. thanks.

brad

I was finally able to purchase a DPS-12 for my large room "that I have remeasured" 20'x30'. The DPS sounds great. I am going to probably add another sub sometime in the future so would a DEQ-12R be ok or should I go with a DLS-4000R as I am not sure on getting the DLS-5000R for cost of funds right now. I see that the DEQ is running a Class D amp also. What type of amp does the DPS and DLS series use?

Hi,
Both the DLS-4000R and DEQ-12R will match up with your DPS-12 as performance is about the same. The DPS and DLS series use class AB amps, the exception being the DLS-5000R which uses a class D amp.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello! I'm hoping to find some help here since I can't seem to get any from Velodyne. I have a DLS-4000R sub that no longer powers on. It's four years old, so I realize that the warranty has expired. Where can I take the sub to have it repaired? I live in Dallas, TX. Thanks!

Is there a new SMS-2? eQ coming out? If so where can I find info for it, thanks.

Djoel

Hi,
There is no new SMS-1 replacement coming out anytime soon.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-443o

I will check. I'm not aware of a 2.1.4.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Any word on this?

Craig

Hi,
Soon there will be a 2.1.4 SMS-1 release. It will address issues with two SMS-1s in the same system communicating with each other in a master/slave mode.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
There is no new SMS-1 replacement coming out anytime soon.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-443o

That's a real shame, thanks Curt C.

Djoel

Hi,
Soon there will be a 2.1.4 SMS-1 release. It will address issues with two SMS-1s in the same system communicating with each other in a master/slave mode.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
I did 2.1.3 today. Afterwards, I re-checked the EQ, made a few minor tweaks, saved the settings and exited. At that point, with no signal playing, I could still faintly hear the "sweeps" through the speakers, (but not the subs). At first, I thought it was all in my head... an acoustic memory from listening to the sweeps over and over. :confused::(

But then I realized it was a real sound. I turned the SMS-1 off, and it stopped... turned it back on... it came back. It was very faint in the room, but if you put your ear next to either the left or right speaker, it was definitely and clearly audible. I've never had this before. I ended up pulling the EQ Output cables out of the SMS-1, and then it stopped.

Is this "bleed-through" of the sweeps a normal part of the 2.1.3 Software Update? Will 2.1.4 correct this problem? I've always been able to leave the EQ output cables plugged in after running the EQ sweeps.

Craig

Hi, there is a double click sound from my main speaker every time after saving or back to main menu. But when I disconnect the EQ Output, the click sound disappear. Any of you experience the same problem? Is this normal or my SMS-1 faulty?

Hi,
My SMS-1 is connected to a stereo preamp and I do not get a click or double click at anytime. Has anyone else had this issue?
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

This isn't a support question, but no one answered it in it's own thread and I was hoping someone here would be able to help me

I just came across a very good opportunity to pick up a new in-the-box Velodyne VMS-8 subwoofer, at a great price. Unfortunately, I cannot find very much info on it at all, either on the forums or on the internet, which worries me a bit. Before this opportunity I was looking at the Velodyne CHT-Q8, or the Mini-Vee. I am told that the VMS-8 is very similar to the Mini-Vee.

Is there anything anyone can tell me about the VMS-8, or give me some links to reviews, or something? Any explanations for why I cannot find any info on this sub?

Since we are not allowed to discuss price, lets just say that with this deal, I can get the VMS-8 for about half the price that I could get the Mini-Vee for.

Thanks!

Hi,
The VMS-8 is the same as the MiniVee. It's the MiniVee with a different name.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The VMS-8 is the same as the MiniVee. It's the MiniVee with a different name.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the reply and the PM!

Hi, there is a double click sound from my main speaker every time after saving or back to main menu. But when I disconnect the EQ Output, the click sound disappear. Any of you experience the same problem? Is this normal or my SMS-1 faulty?

I have my SMS-1 connected to my 885 and get this too. It also turns the Blue light on the front of the SMS back on every time I do this and I always have to turn it back off.

I have my SMS-1 connected to my 885 and get this too. It also turns the Blue light on the front of the SMS back on every time I do this and I always have to turn it back off.

Hi,
Since there can be interactions with certain equipment, and the EQ output jacks are always hot (playing the sweep) when the SMS-1 is on, my recommedation is unplug the EQ cables from your receiver when they are not being used.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello,

My friend has a Velodyne CT-120 subwoofer with a strange problem. We plug it in, the light comes on, a good signal is going in, but it doesnt work. We look inside, see the fuse is ok, and notice a big relay near (what we're assuming is) a big thermistor connected to the heat sink for some kind of thermal protection system.

My first idea was to jumper the relay contacts to bypass the protection system. I did this, and the subwoofer started working. Through more troubleshooting we found the thermistor was ok, but something was wrong in the circuitry feeding power to the relay. I assume its fail safe, so if the relay circuit fails, the subwoofer wont work (much better than it staying on, overheating, and burning the house down).

So we've determined the problem is in the circuit designed to energize the protection relay. I havent taken it completely apart to really figure out whats going on, but by what ive seen, i'd assume the thermistor and capacitors are connected with a resistor network into the IC (Q601 i think) which switches on or off depending on whether the protection is active (subwoofer doesnt work) or inactive (relay energized, subwoofer works).

Is there a way for me to get access to the CT-120 schematic to figure out whats going on and see what part I would need to replace? Right now all I can guess to do is take out Q601, see what it is, throw in a replacement and hope for the best. I'd like to see if I can get some guidance before shooting in the dark.

Thanks

Hi,
I'm sorry this forum thread is not set up to handle repair issues. Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for the help and information you need.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi curt, i just received my sms-1 from diycable. in the sms-1 manual,it states the fw version is 2.1. the manual is dated dec.2005. but my sms-1 unit has a inspection date of june 10,2009. no where on the unit does it show a fw version number. my question is will my new unit have to be updated out of the box or are they now shipped with the new firmware ver.2.1.3 installed. thank you....

Your unit should have either 2.1.3 or 2.1.4. The manual has not been reprinted and the software version will not be indicated on the unit as that can change with an update. Hook the video output up to a TV and you'll see which software it has. If updating a SMS-1 is a problem it can always be returned to Velodyne for a free update.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

curt thank you, i'll power it up and see. it's nice to part of velodyne family..

Hello! I'm hoping to find some help here since I can't seem to get any from Velodyne. I have a DLS-4000R sub that no longer powers on. It's four years old, so I realize that the warranty has expired. Where can I take the sub to have it repaired? I live in Dallas, TX. Thanks!I think Curt may have missed your request for help.

It would help if you could provide a little more information other than your sub "no longer powers on". How is it hooked up, what AVR are you using, etc. Usually Curt is very good at responding. It could be just the amplifier, you can remove it and send it back to Velodyne for repair (but you need to discuss that with their customer service first.

You can contact him at:
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Thanks CT, I had sent him the repair contact info on a PM.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have two questions. First off I have a VRP 1200 that seems to need a new amp as it quite playing, it has very little sound coming from it. Can I use a amp from the Ct series for it? And the second questions is a buddy of mine has a SPL 1200 that is making a crackle sound when playing. Could that be a bad woofer?

Hi,
No, you should not use the CT amplifier for your VRP. Your friends SPL probably needs a repair to the amplifier. For both your units, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: 408-465-2851 for estimates and return information.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Should have posted here before starting a new thread:o Anyway.....was thinking of adding a 4th (and maybe 5th at some point) sub to my system. I have the SMS-1 right now and using all 3 of its sub outputs for my 3 subs....Is there any problem with running a Y-cable off 1 (or 2 if I end up going with 5) of the sub outputs so I can hook up 4 subs to the SMS-1?

Thanks

Hi,
You can use 'Y's to accommodate additional subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
You can use 'Y's to accommodate additional subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Sounds good, thanks Curt.

Curt,

One more quick question.........another poster responded to the thread I started and he suggested that the XLR out can essentialy be used as a 4th sub output by simply getting a XLR to RCA adapter....any reason this would not work as well and use this as a 4th output for a 4th sub?

Thanks.

Yes, the balanced (XLR) is a 4th subwoofer output. Some subwoofers have balanced inputs, otherwise an adapter (XLR to RCA) can be used.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 848-4430

I currently have an HGS18 (older, but still a great sub). Would I get any noticeable benefit from having a second (obviously used) one? Either the same sub, or another model (HGS15 maybe)? I'm still not clear on the benefits of a second sub. I understand the principal behind two subs loading the room differently, but have never experienced it.

I know this isn't exactly the correct thread, but since I own a Velo.....oh well, here it is. Thanks.

I currently have an HGS18 (older, but still a great sub). Would I get any noticeable benefit from having a second (obviously used) one? Either the same sub, or another model (HGS15 maybe)? I'm still not clear on the benefits of a second sub. I understand the principal behind two subs loading the room differently, but have never experienced it.

I know this isn't exactly the correct thread, but since I own a Velo.....oh well, here it is. Thanks.

You'll get a big headroom boost by adding a second HGS18. If you usually listen at levels that come anywhere near pushing your HGS18's limits, adding a second will greatly reduce dynamic compression. Depending on placement, you can also smooth out bass response throughout the room by adding a second sub. If you can get a good deal on another HGS18, it would be well worth it IMO.

You'll get a big headroom boost by adding a second HGS18. If you usually listen at levels that come anywhere near pushing your HGS18's limits, adding a second will greatly reduce dynamic compression. Depending on placement, you can also smooth out bass response throughout the room by adding a second sub. If you can get a good deal on another HGS18, it would be well worth it IMO.
Thanks for the input. I listen to movies pretty loud at times, but I don't think I've ever come close to stressing the sub. I've never heard anything except smooth wonderful low frequencies out of it. I must admit, as much as I'd like to somehow improve the sound, just the look of two of these in the room is as tempting as anything.:o:)

Would there be any way for two of these to actually hurt the sound, though? I know low frequencies can be quite finicky and picky about the company they keep at times, whether that's room dynamics or other low frequencies.

Would there be any way for two of these to actually hurt the sound, though? I know low frequencies can be quite finicky and picky about the company they keep at times, whether that's room dynamics or other low frequencies.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a second HGS 15 to go with one that I already had. At the time, I didn't know that manufacturers have production changes during the life of a product. So what was suppose to be a match clearly wasn't. Dual subs actually sound worst than a single sub. Wound up selling it and going back to one. I think its going to be shear luck trying to get one that actually matches to the one you already have.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a second HGS 15 to go with one that I already had. At the time, I didn't know that manufacturers have production changes during the life of a product. So what was suppose to be a match clearly wasn't. Dual subs actually sound worst than a single sub. Wound up selling it and going back to one. I think its going to be shear luck trying to get one that actually matches to the one you already have.

One could send in both amps to Velodyne for a tune-up upgrade. I recently sent in my HGS-18 amps for a tune-up upgrade for a reasonable cost.

I am not sure how much was done to the HGS driver during it's production.

John

A couple of years ago, I purchased a second HGS 15 to go with one that I already had. At the time, I didn't know that manufacturers have production changes during the life of a product. So what was suppose to be a match clearly wasn't. Dual subs actually sound worst than a single sub. Wound up selling it and going back to one. I think its going to be shear luck trying to get one that actually matches to the one you already have.

Interesting. Mine has a new amp in it, but the driver is still the original.

I currently have an HGS18 (older, but still a great sub). Would I get any noticeable benefit from having a second (obviously used) one? Either the same sub, or another model (HGS15 maybe)? I'm still not clear on the benefits of a second sub. I understand the principal behind two subs loading the room differently, but have never experienced it.

I know this isn't exactly the correct thread, but since I own a Velo.....oh well, here it is. Thanks.

Hi,
The main advantage of two subwoofers is more headroom or output. You can also in some situations smooth out the frequency response. You must place the two subs so they support each other or you could indeed end up with less performance. If you add a second HGS-18, then I would go the extra step and purchase a SMS-1. You would then have total control over both units with one remote control and be able to EQ both subs at the same time. If two of the same model subs perform quite differently, then either one is defective or the placement did not work out correctly. Setting up two or more subs requires more time and patience for maximum performance. In one of my systems I use two Hgs-18s with a SMS-1. It is a two channel system and both subwoofers (running mono) are on the front wall near the speakers. Being able to control both with one remote is great.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for your input, Curt. Much appreciated.

One could send in both amps to Velodyne for a tune-up upgrade. I recently sent in my HGS-18 amps for a tune-up upgrade for a reasonable cost.

I am not sure how much was done to the HGS driver during it's production.

John

That would be doable, but what I heard elsewhere is that Velodyne has had changes in the driver which may have accounted for the differences.

Bottom line is you may get a match but if you don't, you could go to considerable expense trying to make them sound the same.

The cone materials were changed a bit, but the XMAX (throw) or other parts were never changed. The amplifier had some reliabilty updates but power remained the same. I have never experienced the same model HGS subs performing differently. The volume control settings can vary some.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the input. I listen to movies pretty loud at times, but I don't think I've ever come close to stressing the sub. I've never heard anything except smooth wonderful low frequencies out of it...

Dynamic compression isn't always readily apparent. Some subwoofers may encounter port noise or driver bottoming, making it easy to know you've hit the sub's limits. Velodyne's servo subs are well behaved and don't give obvious indications that their limits have been reached. Anytime you operate a sub near its maximum output level, you'll lose dynamic range, but you might not realize it unless you've heard a loud system with plenty of headroom to spare.

A while back I went from a single SVS PB10-NSD to two PB10-NSD's (I've since upgraded to a better sub) and I had no idea how much dynamics were being compressed with the single sub. The PB10 is a pretty well-behaved subwoofer near its limits, and usually just refuses to get any louder rather than making bad noises. Adding the second sub significantly improved impact at higher listening levels. With just one sub, bass-heavy movies would have lots of bass that all seemed to be about the same level. With two subs, I had enough headroom so the biggest explosions and bass moments were reproduced at the proper, louder levels. Again, I didn't know what I was missing until I added a second sub and experienced it for myself.

Here's a blurb from an e-mail Ed Mullen from SVS sent me when I placed an order for my second PB10:

"You’ll love what dual PB10-NSD add to your system. Headroom has a quality all it’s own and you’ll see exactly what I mean when you get both subs running. Your calibration level should be identical, but that extra 6 dB of headroom will allow both subs to cleanly hit peaks where one sub was likely lopping off the dynamic peaks and you didn’t even realize it."

Trust me...it's true. As Curt explained, as long as your placement is good, two subs should substantially improve your bass. An SMS-1 would be a great addition as well.

^ I just don't see how I'd gain too much when I don't go past the first notch on the volume knob (out of 10 notches) now with only one sub. Seems like I'm flirting with too much overkill in my particular room. I have no complaints about the amount of bass (or quality) that I have now. Still, that doesn't mean I don't want another sub to go with it....

However, I don't want to drop that much money on something that will only yield a small improvement, when I could spend the same amount of money on something else that may prove more substantial. I love my current system, and as cool as I think it would be to have dual 18"s, I hardly need it. Then again, when has our chosen hobby ever had anything to do with "need"?

^ I just don't see how I'd gain too much when I don't go past the first notch on the volume knob (out of 10 notches) now with only one sub. Seems like I'm flirting with too much overkill in my particular room. I have no complaints about the amount of bass (or quality) that I have now. Still, that doesn't mean I don't want another sub to go with it....

Without knowing your receiver's settings (subwoofer trim, master volume level, etc) or better yet, actual SPL measurements, it's hard to say if you're coming close to your sub's limits. The sub's gain knob is only one factor. Still, chances are you aren't pushing the sub very hard. You probably wouldn't benefit from the added output of a second sub since you don't seem to listen very loud.

However, I don't want to drop that much money on something that will only yield a small improvement, when I could spend the same amount of money on something else that may prove more substantial. I love my current system, and as cool as I think it would be to have dual 18"s, I hardly need it. Then again, when has our chosen hobby ever had anything to do with "need"?

Understood. There's no point in spending a couple grand for potential improvements you won't ever experience due to your listening habits. If you're happy with your system the way it is, leave well enough alone...and stay away from here! This forum is a great way to hemorrhage money on things we don't really "need". I say just enjoy your system!

Thanks for all the help, guys. I've decided my current sub is more than enough. Actually, way more than enough. I've just got a bad case of the "buys" right now. Maybe I'll look at adding some power to my mains with a new amp.:p

I got a recent issue of Sound and Vision.. and in there there's a quote from a Velodyne rep, cant remember his name, But he said Velodyne subs arent meant for corners. They should be placed close to the left and right channels. If possible between them. Also said for best placement, place sub where you will be doing most of you listening and crawl around the ground to find the "sweet spot".. Is this true?

Im also going over my subs manual DLS R 3750R.. And it says to place the sub near a corner of the room for best performance.

Any one got any recommendations?

I got a recent issue of Sound and Vision.. and in there there's a quote from a Velodyne rep, cant remember his name, But he said Velodyne subs arent meant for corners. They should be placed close to the left and right channels. If possible between them. Also said for best placement, place sub where you will be doing most of you listening and crawl around the ground to find the "sweet spot".. Is this true?

Im also going over my subs manual DLS R 3750R.. And it says to place the sub near a corner of the room for best performance.

Any one got any recommendations?Curt can answer better than I can, but if there's one thing I do know about subs, it's that placement is completely room dependent. There's simply no way to know until you try it out.

A corner generally gives you more boom, but that doesn't mean it's going to be the best place for the quality of the boom.

And yes, the crawling method (while embarrassing if you get caught) has been done by many a subwoofer owner on this forum.

Hi,
Sorry for the confusion. Corner placement works best for maximum output which is often a requirement. I have generally used, or started with corner placement for years. If the sound is too boomy, then move it along the wall away from the corner, or use an equalizer to bring down any peak. The 'crawl around the floor method' usually works very well and when I have tried it, the corners most often come up as the winner. There will continue to be debate as to placement and I keep an open mind and advise people to try different locations. Quite often there are not many choices as to placement. When the sub is too small for the room then a corner will usually be the best choice and that corner should be well away from any openings. Bass needs boundaries and walls are boundaries.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt can answer better than I can, but if there's one thing I do know about subs, it's that placement is completely room dependent. There's simply no way to know until you try it out.

A corner generally gives you more boom, but that doesn't mean it's going to be the best place for the quality of the boom.

And yes, the crawling method (while embarrassing if you get caught) has been done by many a subwoofer owner on this forum.


Ill try the crawling method tonight.

I just feel for the sub i own and the size room, i feel like it should give me a tighter sound. This sub was used in a larger room before and it sound really good.

Ill try the crawling method tonight.

I just feel for the sub i own and the size room, i feel like it should give me a tighter sound. This sub was used in a larger room before and it sound really good.
I've had a few systems that I've gone from house to house with, and it never ceases to amaze me how different they sound when they are in different rooms. I wonder sometimes if I should have spent $500 on my audio system, and $10,000 on room treatments (I'm only half kidding).:)

Curt has there been any changes to the amp or driver of the DD-18 since may 2005?

No, there have been no changes.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Can the Optimum-8 be run on a normal 15 amp circuit along with my other components? How much current does is actually draw from the outlet? It wouldn't be much fun if I brought one home and it tripped the circuit breaker.

Hi,
The Optimum-8 can draw about 8 amps, so you should be okay. The Optimum-8 is designed for a small shut-off (no permanent openings into other rooms) area, so make sure you are selecting the proper subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hoping someone can shed some light (other than get a new one or ship it to Velodyne to get fixed) on a problem I am having with my sub. I have a DPS-12 and here's what it's doing.

When powered on from no electricity, it's output is noticeably lower than normal. After about 2-5 minutes, it stops reproducing the signal going into it and begins to hum...low at first and progressively louder and louder. It's a constant tone or hum (no rythem or beat) and does this everytime I try using it. I have tried different power outlets, different sub cables, and a different receiver with no change.

I'm hoping there is a hard reset, fuse I can change, anything I am missing that could resolve this issue for me.

This is painful for me as I am a former manager at Circuit City and it was one of the best subs I remember carrying at CC in my 10 years there. Any help would be great.

Dave - AKA : jediH8R

I'd posted this on Energy Speakers forum but was advised to put it here. Here's what I have. My HT area is approx. 23' L x 16' W x 7.5' H in a finished basement that is approx. 23' L x 40' W x 7.5' H. My speaker setup is as follows:

Energy RC70s front (approx. 14 ft. from listening spot)
Energy RC50s side surround (approx. 36 in. from listening spot on each side)
Energy RC10s rear surround (approx. 30 in. from listening spot, sitting on a 30" high bookshelf)
Energy RCLCR center (approx. 13 ft. from listening spot, 12" off the ground)
Velodyne CHT-12 sub (currently placed to the left of rear left surround speaker)

I am using Harmon Kardon AVR-630 receiver to drive these. The crossover for ALL speakers (excluding sub) is set to default 100 Hz, and size is set to SMALL. Here are some of my questions:

1. The bass is still a problem. With sub being close to me (right behind the couch), I feel a lot of vibrations but the bass seems muddled. I tried placing it in the front between FR/FL which minimized the vibrations but bass is lacking. I moved the sub around, but it just doesn't sound right. Any suggestions pertaining to crossover, phase, volume settings - what should they be set to? Any recommendations on placement of the sub (considering that my HT area is approx. 1/2 of the basement; rest of it has a pool table and sitting area).

2. For some reason, after playing for a while the sub shuts-off by itself. Meaning, the power is on but the sub is not outputting any sound. If I power-off the sub and power it back on, it starts again but shuts-off later on. Any idea what might be happening here?

As always, I am greatly appreciative of all inputs. Thank you!

Hi,
Your subwoofer is way too small. The sub, unlike the speakers has to deal with the total basement size. It is also shutting down from heat (thermal shutdown) to protect itself. You have over 7K cubic feet so you need two DLS-5000Rs or two DEQ-15Rs. You could start with one and see what you think. If you need more help or subwoofer info, please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hoping someone can shed some light (other than get a new one or ship it to Velodyne to get fixed) on a problem I am having with my sub. I have a DPS-12 and here's what it's doing.

When powered on from no electricity, it's output is noticeably lower than normal. After about 2-5 minutes, it stops reproducing the signal going into it and begins to hum...low at first and progressively louder and louder. It's a constant tone or hum (no rythem or beat) and does this everytime I try using it. I have tried different power outlets, different sub cables, and a different receiver with no change.

I'm hoping there is a hard reset, fuse I can change, anything I am missing that could resolve this issue for me.

This is painful for me as I am a former manager at Circuit City and it was one of the best subs I remember carrying at CC in my 10 years there. Any help would be great.

Dave - AKA : jediH8R


Hi,
First try a system reset by pressing the four presets at the top of the panel from left to right and back again (1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1). If this doesn't help, please call Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see what options there may be.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Your subwoofer is way too small. The sub, unlike the speakers has to deal with the total basement size. It is also shutting down from heat (thermal shutdown) to protect itself. You have over 7K cubic feet so you need two DLS-5000Rs or two DEQ-15Rs. You could start with one and see what you think. If you need more help or subwoofer info, please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks, Curt. Are you suggesting I add 2 more subs or add 1 more (DLS-5000R or DEQ-15) in addition to the CHT-12. Can you please clarify. Thanks!

EDIT: What's the ideal room size that a CHT-12 can handle effectively?

Thanks, Curt. Are you suggesting I add 2 more subs or add 1 more (DLS-5000R or DEQ-15) in addition to the CHT-12. Can you please clarify. Thanks!


Hi,
What you really need are two 15" subs of the models mentioned. You could start by adding one of the fifteens to your existing subwoofer and see how that performs. A CHT-12 will work up to about 3K cubic feet or so.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have recently acquired a FSR-15 (craigslist) and it works but seems to be bottoming out at high volumes do they still make replacement woofers for this model or have any other suggestions on what to do

Thanks Bob

Hi,
The F series were designed before home theater and were about playing very accurate rather than loud. I never recommend purchasing a F series for home theater. There have not been woofers or woofer parts for the F series for years and no other woofer will work since it is a closed loop servo subwoofer.
I recommend the following hook-up for your unit and keep in mind this unit cannot play real loud.
1) In your receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three fourths of the way up.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both of the subwoofer's input jacks.
3) Keep the sub's volume well below half way. (Around 9-10 O'clock is good)
4) Place the subwoofer in a corner away from any openings.
Hopefully this will give you much better performance. If you have questions regarding the hook-up or subwoofer, please give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello. I think my sub might be dead. It started innocently enough while watching tv, it would pop and shut off. Resetting it seemed to fix the problem. Now all of a sudden the same trick no longer works. What can be the problem? Might it need a new amp? To make matters worse its out of warranty ( I think )

Can I order a new amp from Velodyne and put it in?

Hi,
On Moday, please contact Velodyne repair/service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. for your options. The amplifier for your subwoofer can be repaired.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hey guys. I recently purchased a new VRP1000 sub and have it hooked up to my Integra DTR-5.1 receiver using a Monster mono subwoofer cable via the Subwoofer pre-out and in to the sub using the LFE input. I'm confused because the LFE input has two (red and white) connections but mono subwoofer cables are just a single cable, which matches the pre-out on my receiver. How is this supposed to be connected properly?

Hey guys. I recently purchased a new VRP1000 sub and have it hooked up to my Integra DTR-5.1 receiver using a Monster mono subwoofer cable via the Subwoofer pre-out and in to the sub using the LFE input. I'm confused because the LFE input has two (red and white) connections but mono subwoofer cables are just a single cable, which matches the pre-out on my receiver. How is this supposed to be connected properly?

Use an RCA Y -adaptor. 1 female to 2 males

John

Hi,
The VRP should be hooked up as follows;

1) Use a 'Y' splitter into both input jacks of the sub. Put a 'Y' splitter on the end of your single cable at the subwoofer end.
2) In the receiver raise the volume for the subwoofer channel three fourths of the way up.
3) On the subwoofer put the phase to '0'.
4) Place the subwoofer in a corner (if possible) away from any openings.
5) Keep the sub's volume below half way.

This hook-up information applies to all Velodyne VX, VRP and Impact series subwoofers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I can't search through 6,000 posts to look for an answer.

My question is this:

I have 2 identical subs with substantial output to 16 Hz.

The problem is that at this point in time, I have virtually no place to put the subs except where they are.

One is in the front left corner and it must be exciting a bunch of (room) modes. I have to turn the volume way down, and even then I can easily sense the peaky response.

The second sub is on the front wall about 12 feet to the right of the one I just described. This sub seems to have a relatively smooth response but I never experienced a situation like this in the past ~15 years.

While it is possible that the volume pots are somewhat off, I have to turn the second sub almost all the way up.

My question is this:

If I were to get a Veldoyne SMS-1 is there a way to connect both subs to it and still get the benefit mainly needed by the sub in the corner?

To put it another way, how can I get the most from an SMS-1 with this far-from-ideal situation?

The corner placed sub will naturally have more output. I would really attempt to relocate one of the subs. Is it possible to place them together? Most subwoofer do not do well being run at or near maximum volume setting.
What the SMS-1 can do is equalize both subs (both would be hooked to the outputs of the SMS-1) at the same time at listening position. You would set the two subs up so the volume is the same from each at listening position.
It might be wise to download the manual for the SMS-1 so you are familiar with the connections and capabilities.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Interested in those in the know, why one would use two smaller subs over one larger?

Would one DD-15 sound better than two DD-10s?

One DD-15 can play louder and go deeper than two DD-10s. One large verus two small subs will always be up for discussion. Sometimes you may get flatter or more even response with two subwoofers placed correctly. It will require patience and room placement flexibilty in getting the maximum performance from two subwoofers. The main thing is having enough subwoofer (one or more) for the size of the room or rooms. If the system is two channel some prefer stereo subs though there is very little software available with stereo bass. I often use two subwoofers, but they are usually large ones. To your question regarding 'sounding better', set up correctly they will sound about the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

One DD-15 can play louder and go deeper than two DD-10s. One large verus two small subs will always be up for discussion. Sometimes you may get flatter or more even response with two subwoofers placed correctly. It will require patience and room placement flexibilty in getting the maximum performance from two subwoofers. The main thing is having enough subwoofer (one or more) for the size of the room or rooms. If the system is two channel some prefer stereo subs though there is very little software available with stereo bass. I often use two subwoofers, but they are usually large ones. To your question regarding 'sounding better', set up correctly they will sound about the same.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I just cant get the one DD10 of mine to sound as good (deep) as it used to.

I use to have my 7.1 setup with PSB speakers, Yamaha RXV-3900 and the DD10, I changed them all to satellite Mirage OS3s and and OMD centre, Im trying to get the warmth that I use to have but it all seems lost. The room is approx 18' x 13' and one side is open to the dinning and kitchen, so the total space is fairly large. The floors are concrete base with carpet.

I didn't know if adding a second DD10 or to go up in size, maybe the DD10 was never large enough for my space, what are your thoughts?

Would the DD15 work better?

Any help to bring back the warmth and feeling would be appreciated.

Your DD-10 is too small. I would recommend the DD-15 and add a second if needed. To recapture the warmth, experiment with crossover and volume. The change in speakers may require changes in your setup.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Your DD-10 is too small. I would recommend the DD-15 and add a second if needed. To recapture the warmth, experiment with crossover and volume. The change in speakers may require changes in your setup.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Ive just gone with the auto setup on the 3900, all the mirage speakers were set to small at 100Hz, this seems correct doesnt it?

Hi,
I suspect 120hz would be better. Also bring the bass channel in your receiver to three fourths of the way up. Use a 'Y' splitter into both DD inputs. Bypass the crossover in the DD and set the sub's volume to blend with the speakers. This should help with your lost 'warmth'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I suspect 120hz would be better. Also bring the bass channel in your receiver to three fourths of the way up. Use a 'Y' splitter into both DD inputs. Bypass the crossover in the DD and set the sub's volume to blend with the speakers. This should help with your lost 'warmth'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt I will set the OS3s all to 120hz and add 3/4 to the bass on the 3900. I am using a Y connector now to the DD-10. lets try this for a bit and see if its more pleasing.

Do you think though an upgrade to DD-15 would be better suited though to my size room with concrete slab with carpet? I have heard that wooden floors are way better than concrete slabs, do you agree?

Cheers

Hi,
Slab floors with carpet are fine. That's what I've had more often than not. Some wood floors will on occasion, resonate with the low notes, adding some flavor. In the future I would consider adding a larger sub or a second DD-10.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Slab floors with carpet are fine. That's what I've had more often than not. Some wood floors will on occasion, resonate with the low notes, adding some flavor. In the future I would consider adding a larger sub or a second DD-10.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

OK Ive changed all the speakers to 120Hz and added 3/4 to the bass and everything has dramatically improved! I still think I will investigate upping to a DD-15 anyway:rolleyes:

Curt would the CHT-15Q be similar to the DD-15, its alot cheaper?

They are very different. The DD-15 is state of the art. The best we know how to make. Extremly low distortion, very wide frequency response. Built-in computer for doing room EQ and setting up it's many features. Sealed box design. The CHT-15Q (DEQ-15R in the U.S.) is our 'bang for the buck' product. It will play very loud, does a great job on explosions, rumbles and the other fun parts of movies and musical concerts. Bass reflex design. It features auto room EQ and a digital readout for setting volume and other features all with a hand held remote.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I suspect 120hz would be better. Also bring the bass channel in your receiver to three fourths of the way up. Use a 'Y' splitter into both DD inputs. Bypass the crossover in the DD and set the sub's volume to blend with the speakers. This should help with your lost 'warmth'.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,
Ive been listening today to the changes you suggested above, I did everything except bypassing the crossover on the DD.

After testing many movies I have to admit these new changes are now absolutely AMAZING! My new Mirage OS3s no longer sound shrill. I have wonderful warmth and the sound seems HUGE! My "new" sound is even better than with my old PSB speakers!

Your suggestions have made a remarkable improvement and I thank you for helping:)

Ive never really made too many manual adjustments like this in the past, as Ive always just relied on the Mic from the Yamaha RXV3900.

In technical terms can you explain what has really happened here?
It all seems so simple, but the changes are absolutely dramatic, your a genius! :)

Hi,
When receivers do 'auto-level' setting, at best they are attempting to get close to the same level for all speakers at mic position. The problem is, that rarely sounds correct. The bass channel usually needs to be 5db or more louder. Same for the center channel, at least for most of us.
Your receiver was setting a crossover too low (IMO) for the very small woofers in your Mirage speakers. So by raising the crossover to 120hz ths satellites were able to reach down to that point easier and the DD-10 can play very well up to 120hz, restoring the lost 'warmth' of your previous settings.
Receivers, when doing auto set ups also tend to limit the gain of the subwoofer channel. By having you raise that level in the receiver you had more latitude in the sub for volume up and down without driving the sub's volume so high.
I really recommend to everyone to use your ears as a measuring device when setting up a system. Always feel free to manually adjust levels until they sound correct to you. It can make a poor sounding system really good. Just because a receiver sets something a certain way, that does not mean it can't be improved, sometimes dramatically. Your room and your ears are big factors that are not in the auto calibration formula.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt, how many dbs do you find you have to usually rasie a sub by after an auto eq from a reciever?

I have always found they set the sub too low, but raising too far can end up like a boom box. Its just finding that correct spot to stop is sometimes hard:rolleyes:

Again your ears, your room. Normally somewhere between 5-8db.
Curt (928) 858-4430

i'm looking to get a new subwoofer for my system: 2 def tech mythos ones, 2 mythos fives for surround, and a mythos eight for a center ... powered with an onkyo nr807. My room size is around 2500sqf but is somewhat open to the rest of the house.

I've seen many threads recommend an svs sub, hsu, or elemental design. Would a velodyne DEQ-12r compare to any of those other brands in the same price range ($500-600)? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi,
What makes this an easy call for me is the DEQ's Digital Bass Management system which includes multi-band auto room EQ, four available presets, multiple phase settings, night mode as well as mute and volume up/down all controlled by a small hand held remote. The DEQ series also has a front panel digital readout as to feature and volume settings. Once you have used the remote and activated the features, especially volume up or down from listening position, you'll never want to go back. The auto room EQ is done with the push of a button, once the included mic is attached. No other brand including those mentioned offers all these features at any price.
Ths Velodyne DEQ series doesn't just compete, IMO it easily exceeds.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt, which model is better for HT a DEQ-15 or a CHT-15Q, I thought the specs are similar?

They are the same. The CHT-Q is the 220 volt International unit while the DEQ-R is the 110Volt U.S. version.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am looking at the SMS-1 to EQ my Outlaw LFM-1 Plus. I have a Onkyo 886 for HT and a Parasound 2100 2 CH preamp (with HT Bypass) for music listening. I use Audyssey with the 886 which does a fine job with the sub but when using the 2100 there is no EQ for the sub.

I thought the SMS-1 would be beneficial when using the 2100. Is it possible to use the SMS-1 for both the 886 and the 2100? By that I mean run a RCA cable from the 886s LFE and a RCA cable from the 2100s sub out to the SMS-1 LFE input using a "Y" connector. I would assume the "Y" connector to one input of the SMS-1 to be fine as I never have both the 886 and the 2100 on at the same time. My thinking is I could use the SMS-1 to EQ the sub for HT (then run Audyssey) and also EQ the sub for music listening. Then using one of the six different settings one for HT and one for music.

Is this a crazy idea? If it is I have no problem with the more experienced sub guys here letting me know. Right now when listening to 2 CH music with the 2100 the bass is tight and the sub is not easily located (close to the left front corner of my room) which I find a nice surprise. But I would like to get better definition in the bass especially with music.

I had thought of getting a used Velodyne DD-10 which has EQ capabilities built in but is quite a bit more expensive than the SMS-1.

Any thoughts on the above would be appreciated:).

Bill

Hi Curt,

Ive decided to replace my DD-10 with a CHT-15Q for my room. As one wall of the room is partially open to the dining and kitchen, my total cubic area looks like it does need a larger sub.

Cubic feet is approx 3625 for total of the three rooms, lounge, dining and kitchen.

Presently I have the DD-10 on the right front corner, this is close to where three stairs go up to the dining. That side wall is partially broken to the dining/kitchen. I was wondering if I do replace the DD-10 with the CHT-15Q, would you think it would be better to place it on the opposite side on the left, near the glass doors? They say best placement is in corners with walls, but no mention of glass? As the right front side wall is partially broken I was thinking that maybe Im using the wrong side to place the sub.

Can you check the attachment and give me your thoughts please?

Also do you think this is a wise move to up the size of the sub?

Thanks again for all your help.

Hi Curt,

I forgot to ask in the post above, what if the new CHT-15Q was placed not at the front but at the rear of the room on the corner by the sofas, is this good or bad? (see att)

Glass is a wall. You want to keep it away from any openings and partial walls. It's best to experiment with the various possibilities. Behind the sofa may work well, give it a try.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am looking at the SMS-1 to EQ my Outlaw LFM-1 Plus. I have a Onkyo 886 for HT and a Parasound 2100 2 CH preamp (with HT Bypass) for music listening. I use Audyssey with the 886 which does a fine job with the sub but when using the 2100 there is no EQ for the sub.

I thought the SMS-1 would be beneficial when using the 2100. Is it possible to use the SMS-1 for both the 886 and the 2100? By that I mean run a RCA cable from the 886s LFE and a RCA cable from the 2100s sub out to the SMS-1 LFE input using a "Y" connector. I would assume the "Y" connector to one input of the SMS-1 to be fine as I never have both the 886 and the 2100 on at the same time. My thinking is I could use the SMS-1 to EQ the sub for HT (then run Audyssey) and also EQ the sub for music listening. Then using one of the six different settings one for HT and one for music.

Is this a crazy idea? If it is I have no problem with the more experienced sub guys here letting me know. Right now when listening to 2 CH music with the 2100 the bass is tight and the sub is not easily located (close to the left front corner of my room) which I find a nice surprise. But I would like to get better definition in the bass especially with music.

I had thought of getting a used Velodyne DD-10 which has EQ capabilities built in but is quite a bit more expensive than the SMS-1.

Any thoughts on the above would be appreciated:).

Bill

Hi,
I'm sorry, the answer is no. The SMS-1 (and this applies to the DDs also) was designed for a single input. The inputs are not buffered for isolation and your equipment could be damaged and this applies even if only one source is used at a time. The only safe way is to use a properly designed, two-in, one-out, switching box ahead of the SMS-1 input.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne

Hi,
I'm sorry, the answer is no. The SMS-1 (and this applies to the DDs also) was designed for a single input. The inputs are not buffered for isolation and your equipment could be damaged and this applies even if only one source is used at a time. The only safe way is to use a properly designed, two-in, one-out, switching box ahead of the SMS-1 input.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne

Hi Curt,

Thanks so much for your help:)! No better advice than from someone like yourself who has complete knowledge of their product. I might try the SMS-1 with just the 2100. Have many tried the SMS-1 with 2 CH preamps with sub outputs? If so was the SMS-1 helpful or is it more geared for HT applications? Once again I appreciate your advice.

Take care, Bill

I am looking at the SMS-1 to EQ my Outlaw LFM-1 Plus. I have a Onkyo 886 for HT and a Parasound 2100 2 CH preamp (with HT Bypass) for music listening. I use Audyssey with the 886 which does a fine job with the sub but when using the 2100 there is no EQ for the sub.

I thought the SMS-1 would be beneficial when using the 2100. Is it possible to use the SMS-1 for both the 886 and the 2100? By that I mean run a RCA cable from the 886s LFE and a RCA cable from the 2100s sub out to the SMS-1 LFE input using a "Y" connector. I would assume the "Y" connector to one input of the SMS-1 to be fine as I never have both the 886 and the 2100 on at the same time. My thinking is I could use the SMS-1 to EQ the sub for HT (then run Audyssey) and also EQ the sub for music listening. Then using one of the six different settings one for HT and one for music.

Is this a crazy idea? If it is I have no problem with the more experienced sub guys here letting me know. Right now when listening to 2 CH music with the 2100 the bass is tight and the sub is not easily located (close to the left front corner of my room) which I find a nice surprise. But I would like to get better definition in the bass especially with music.

I had thought of getting a used Velodyne DD-10 which has EQ capabilities built in but is quite a bit more expensive than the SMS-1.

Any thoughts on the above would be appreciated:).

Bill

Hi,
I'm sorry, the answer is no. The SMS-1 (and this applies to the DDs also) was designed for a single input. The inputs are not buffered for isolation and your equipment could be damaged and this applies even if only one source is used at a time. The only safe way is to use a properly designed, two-in, one-out, switching box ahead of the SMS-1 input.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne

Hi Curt,

Like this?

2-Way Audio/Video Selector Switch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049644)

Larry

I don't know the design of the R/S device. The price is certainly good.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Thanks so much for your help:)! No better advice than from someone like yourself who has complete knowledge of their product. I might try the SMS-1 with just the 2100. Have many tried the SMS-1 with 2 CH preamps with sub outputs? If so was the SMS-1 helpful or is it more geared for HT applications? Once again I appreciate your advice.

Take care, Bill

Hi,
Yes many people use the SMS-1 for just audio, myself included. As an all-in-one Bass Management tool it is geared toward all audio, either H/T or two channel. It is however a mono output device so it cannot support stereo subs. I think you only have one sub, in which case it would work very well. The great thing is seeing the response curve in real time and observing the corrections you can make.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt are there any issues placing the CHT-15Q on its side rather than the base of the unit, would make it easier to fit in a space?

Not a problem.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Yes many people use the SMS-1 for just audio, myself included. As an all-in-one Bass Management tool it is geared toward all audio, either H/T or two channel. It is however a mono output device so it cannot support stereo subs. I think you only have one sub, in which case it would work very well. The great thing is seeing the response curve in real time and observing the corrections you can make.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,

Once again thanks for your very prompt response:)! Actually with the LFE from the 886 going to the HT Bypass input of the 2100 then being output from the 2100 on to my sub I do not need a "Y" connector. In essence this would work as the switch.

My question now is can I calibrate the sub with the SMS-1 with the R&L audio outputs of the SMS-1 to a spare input on the 886 then save those settings say as preset #1. Then can I move the audio outputs from the SMS-1 to a spare input of the 2100 then do another calibration for 2 CH use saving those setting using the #2 preset? Or can you only do one main calibration and only have different settings for that one calibration?

Thanks again, Bill

Yes you can set and store different EQs and settings on the different presets.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi!

I just bought a SPL-800i but the auto power on/off didn't worked. The sub didn't received signal for hours but never turned off.

I checked the switch marked Auto on/off but it was in position Active, not the Inactive position. So I thought I had to return the sub.

Since the Auto on/off didn't worked I switched the Auto on/off to Inactive and to my surprise after some time with no signal to the sub, it turned off.

When reading the manual I see that the labels for the Auto power on/off is marked in another way. In the manual the switch is called Power and the left position is On and the right position is Auto.

On my sub the switch is called Auto on/off and the left position is Active and the right position is Inactive. This actually means the opposite compared to the manual and how my sub is working so I'm a little bit confused. Is my sub just labeled wrong or have I misunderstood something?

Regards.
Fredrik from Sweden

Hi!

I just bought a SPL-800i but the auto power on/off didn't worked. The sub didn't received signal for hours but never turned off.

I checked the switch marked Auto on/off but it was in position Active, not the Inactive position. So I thought I had to return the sub.

Since the Auto on/off didn't worked I switched the Auto on/off to Inactive and to my surprise after some time with no signal to the sub, it turned off.

When reading the manual I see that the labels for the Auto power on/off is marked in another way. In the manual the switch is called Power and the left position is On and the right position is Auto.

On my sub the switch is called Auto on/off and the left position is Active and the right position is Inactive. This actually means the opposite compared to the manual and how my sub is working so I'm a little bit confused. Is my sub just labeled wrong or have I misunderstood something?

Regards.
Fredrik from Sweden

I believe they are labeled wrong I too had the same problem with one I used to own.

Yes, some of those amps were labeled backwards.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have a F1200 sub. The wires to the connector card that attaches to the amp board are un-done on the sub box side. Looking at the sub from the front with the connector board connected to the amp board which of the pins does the 4 pin ribbon connector connect to the right or left side? the two pin connection would be obviously the remaining pins...
thank you!

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They will be able to answer your question.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4431 or curt@velodyne.com

Thank you! Will do.
dave

Hi Curt,

New to Velodyne subs here, but was suggested to them by a rep at Vanns. My setup is..

Room is 25'x15'x9'
Front R/L - Energy RC70
Rear R/L - Energy RC Mini
Receiver - Pio Elite VSX-21TXH
Currently no center channel

Vanns rep advised me to do a DLS-3500, although I'm concerned the 8" sub will not give the ooomph I'm looking for...however the price is where I want to be. Do you think I should do a 10" version or another type of Velodyne sub? Or will the suggested 8" be sufficient?

Thanks a bunch,
David

Hi,
Glad you asked before you bought. The minimum size for your room is the DLS-4000R and I would recommend the DLS-5000R especially if there are any permanent openings into other rooms. I would also look at the DEQ-12R or the DEQ-15R for the auto room EQ and LED readout. For that extra OOMPH you really should look at the fifteen inchers (DLS-5000R or DEQ-15R).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They will be able to answer your question.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4431 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt,
Thanks for the info/advice. I spoke with a gentleman in service (Bob?) and he answered the question i had, took all of 1". I am up and running. Thank you.
dave kaye

Hi Curt,
Its great to know someone that can helps in a professional ways.Ok,i just started set up my room for home theater.My room size is 12' x 11.6' x 11'(height).My speaker system is :
Front : modaunt short mezzo 6
Center : mezzo 5
Rear : mezzo 1
Av Receiver : Onkyo 607.
Would you recommend which model of Velodyne Subwoofer that suit for my set up,i'm thinking of either CHT 12Q or CHT 10Q.Thanks.

I could use a little help with with my SMS-1. First a little background. I'm running an Integra DTC-9.8 with a Rotel 1075 and the SMS-1 feeding both an SVS PB12-Plus and a Hsu STF-3. When calibrating, I can get a pretty flat frequency response something like this but usually a little better.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/davemcc1234/SMS-1fail003.jpg

However, for no reason that I can explain, when listening to music or a movie, the bass will simply drop out, disappear. Last time it happened, I ran some sweeps to get an image of what was happening when the bass dropped out and it looked something like this...

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/davemcc1234/SMS-1fail002.jpg

It will stay this way and the only way I've found to restore the system to a normal setting is to raise the volume on the SMS-1 to a quite high level, like 80 or so. At that point, the bass kicks back in and everything seems to be normal again at the previously calibrated settings...until next time.
the biggest problem I have with this is that last time I tried this, it fried my PB12-Plus. Actually, it's not the first time that the SVS has failed and I suspect that in both cases, the SMS-1 and my method of rebooting it was at fault.

So my questions are, what could be wrong with the SMS-1 to cause this bass frequency drop out and what can be done to prevent it from happening in the future?

Quick question for setting up a velodyne DEQ 12r subwoofer to an Onkyo NR807. My receiver has two output connections for a subwoofer (both of which output the same signal). The sub has a L/R channel. Is there a difference from using one connection on the Onkyo and then using a Y cable to connect to the sub versus using both outputs from the receiver to the sub?

It will be the same.
Thanks,
Curt

DAVEMCC,
It appears you're not providing near enough input to the SMS-1. The volume on the SMS-1 should never be run anywhere near '80'. I run mine at '15' which is unity gain. Go into your Integra and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three fourths of the way up. That will probably take care of the problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,
Its great to know someone that can helps in a professional ways.Ok,i just started set up my room for home theater.My room size is 12' x 11.6' x 11'(height).My speaker system is :
Front : modaunt short mezzo 6
Center : mezzo 5
Rear : mezzo 1
Av Receiver : Onkyo 607.
Would you recommend which model of Velodyne Subwoofer that suit for my set up,i'm thinking of either CHT 12Q or CHT 10Q.Thanks.


Hi,
Either will work fine in your small room. I would recommend the CHT-12Q for it's additional reserve. If there are any permanent openings into other rooms, then the CHT-12Q for sure.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

DAVEMCC,
It appears you're not providing near enough input to the SMS-1. The volume on the SMS-1 should never be run anywhere near '80'. I run mine at '15' which is unity gain. Go into your Integra and raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to three fourths of the way up. That will probably take care of the problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Thank you for the discussion over the phone. I will try your suggestions and see how it works out.

Dave.

Thanks Dave and Good Luck.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I have applied your suggestions but I think the issue lies somewhere else. I set the Integra's LFE output to +8 and the SMS-1's output to 15, as suggested. I level adjusted using the sub's gain control to balance with the mains at nearly 80dB. The initial sweeps looked pretty flat, much like the first photo I posted. However, after a dozen or so sweeps, I noticed a significant audible drop in the volume of the sweeps and the sweep graph again dropped off sharply, as in the second photo.

We can continue the diagnosis next week after your operation and holiday weekend. Good luck with the operation and Happy Thanksgiving.

Dave.

Dave,

You Canadians throw us a curve with Thanksgiving being on Oct 12th. Thought you'd gone of the deep end there for a moment.

It sounds to me that your sub is turning itself off. For testing purposes, flip the power switch from auto to always on. If that does fix the problem, it could either be a defective detection circuit in the sub or something else is causing a lower than normal input signal.

As Curt said, running the volume level on the SMS-1 at 15 gives me better results than running it higher.

On an unrelated point, if you are using your receiver/prepro for bass management (which I think most of us do) be sure to go into the second page of the SMS-1's setup and change the crossover to "0". Also be sure that you're not running a crossover on your subwoofer.
You normally don't want to run multiple crossovers.

Hi,
I am having knee surgery this afternoon and will be absent from this forum until Tuesday, Oct. 13th. Monday, Oct. 12th (Columbus Day) is a Velodyne holiday.
If anyone needs repair service or other questions answered by Velodyne before Tuesday, please contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Good luck, Curt! :)

Best of luck with the surgery Curt. And thanks again for you advice during
our phone call on the 8th.

Dan

Dave,

You Canadians throw us a curve with Thanksgiving being on Oct 12th. Thought you'd gone of the deep end there for a moment.

Yeah, sorry about that. It's hard to keep up with your "foreign" holidays.;)

It sounds to me that your sub is turning itself off. For testing purposes, flip the power switch from auto to always on. If that does fix the problem, it could either be a defective detection circuit in the sub or something else is causing a lower than normal input signal.

Jim, I'm running dual subs. Either one is capable on its own of providing output into the low 20Hz zone, which should not measure as a zero even if one sub is still active. However, the power lights on both subs still show them to be active when the bass drops out. I'm sure it's not lack of signal that's causing the subs to shut down since the last time it occurred was right in the middle of "What Is Love" from Night at the Roxbury at about -10 dB on the master volume.

On an unrelated point, if you are using your receiver/prepro for bass management (which I think most of us do) be sure to go into the second page of the SMS-1's setup and change the crossover to "0". Also be sure that you're not running a crossover on your subwoofer.
You normally don't want to run multiple crossovers.

Yup, got all that set up using the Outlaws Guide. The crossovers on both subs are disabled.

I downloaded the manual and the part number isn't in the manual. I recently purchased a used HGS-18, but the person I bought it from had lost the remote. I emailed Velodyne support, but haven't heard back yet. There are some Velodyne remotes on Ebay, but not sure which ones would work with it. The sticker on the back of the sub says it was built in March of 2000.
If anyone knows which remotes would work with this sub, please let me know.

Thank you in advance,
Bryan

Speedy recovery Curt!:)

Question for Curt or anyone else. What's the best bang-for-buck performance in the Velodyne line? I require a sub for a big room (20 x 20) with decent sound for 100% home theater, and lots of output.

Is my best bet the SPL-1500R?

The DEQ-15R, maybe two. Not the sealed box SPL-1500R.
Curt

Welcome back, Curt! Hope all is well with you.

Unfortunately I developed a complication and will have very limited time to answer the next couple of weeks. So please be patient and when you need a quick Velodyne answer use the numbers for customer service on the Velodyne web site.
Thanks,
Curt

So I got an adapter for the balanced LFE output on my SMS-1 so I could plug an RCA cable into it to run a 4th sub and am having an issue. The FR when using the balanced to RCA adapter and using an RCA cable is not the same from about 40hz and up.....from 15hz to about 40hz it is identical to using one of the 3 RCA outs on the SMS-1, but from 40-80hz it falls off compared to using the RCA outputs:confused: Why is this happening?

If I cant figure it out, I am going to just try a Y-cable off one of the RCA outs which should work.

So I got an adapter for the balanced LFE output on my SMS-1 so I could plug an RCA cable into it to run a 4th sub and am having an issue. The FR when using the balanced to RCA adapter and using an RCA cable is not the same from about 40hz and up.....from 15hz to about 40hz it is identical to using one of the 3 RCA outs on the SMS-1, but from 40-80hz it falls off compared to using the RCA outputs:confused: Why is this happening?

If I cant figure it out, I am going to just try a Y-cable off one of the RCA outs which should work.
Toe, I always hate posting a question right behind an unanswered question, but maybe someone can help me with an easy answer...

What the HELL am I doing wrong with the SMS-1? Seems like all I can do is make my sub sound worse. I'm within the window to return it, only by a day or so, and I'm really considering it.

If someone can just tell me that it's simply user error....that it's not possible for the SMS to make my sound worse when correctly set...then I'll keep it and continue learning how to use it. I thought I had a good grasp on things, but I guess not.

Toe, I always hate posting a question right behind an unanswered question, but maybe someone can help me with an easy answer...

What the HELL am I doing wrong with the SMS-1? Seems like all I can do is make my sub sound worse. I'm within the window to return it, only by a day or so, and I'm really considering it.

If someone can just tell me that it's simply user error....that it's not possible for the SMS to make my sound worse when correctly set...then I'll keep it and continue learning how to use it. I thought I had a good grasp on things, but I guess not.

I've had an SMS-1 running 2 HGS-12s for a year or 2, and I've never had problems like you are having. It was pretty self-explanatory how to hook it up and run the software.

Have you contacted Velodyne Customer Support directly? It sounds like some sort of problem or bug in your unit. At least if you talk to them, you're on record as having unanswered questions about the unit and may buy you some time in making a decision...

Just my $.02 worth. Hope it helps.

One thing that I think throws most people is that the default setting for the SMS-1 contains a crossover when most use the crossover in their receiver/prepro. You also have crossovers in subs. When you think about it, it leans more toward the interpretation that all should be used and set the same where you would normally only use one of the 3 and turn off the rest.

You also have the issue of adding subwoofer distance to correct for the additional processing time of the SMS-1.

sb1 and Toe,
I sent you PM's. I'm still on sick leave and hope to be back on board (full-time) sometime next week if there are no more complications. In the meantime, leave a message on my phone and I will try and call you back, if you need more.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I currently have a DD15, but have a chance to get a JL Audio f113. I have not heard the f113 though but I am aware of all the praise and awards it has won. Would it be much of an upgrade over the DD15?

I'm sorry as an Official Velodyne Support thread part of the agreement is; comments, opinions, and comparisons with other brands are not part of the agenda. There are plenty of other threads for that.
Thanks for your cooperation.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

I have a HGS12 bought new in early 2000. It quit working and I'm wondering if there is any DYI "test" that I can do to determine want has gone wrong? I live in SE Iowa so repair facilities are non-existant. Also, are parts still available from Velodyne for this unit if I can determine what to fix? It has been a great sub and I would hate to just pitch it!!

Hey guys,

I just traded a bunch of Klipsch speakers for a single HGS-18. It has a Mark II amp and is hooked up to a Denon 2808 rec. Any advice on how to set this sub up with my mains which are Def Tech. BP7000sc.

Right now I have the crossover at about 90hz and the volume at 1/3 up on the HGS-18. Both Def. Techs are at about 11oclock on the bass level. So far it sounds pretty good but haven't had much time to play as of late.

I think the tricky part is going to be getting the HGS-18 to blend in with the subs in the BP7000s. Seems like the BP7000s have a bump at around 30hz.

Think I should level of the BP7000s as much as possible then crossover the sub output at about 90-100?

I'm trying to keep it some what simple for there may be some times when I may decide to leave the HGS-18 powered off, i.e. watching TV etc.

Thanks!

Jack

Hey guys,

I just traded a bunch of Klipsch speakers for a single HGS-18. It has a Mark II amp and is hooked up to a Denon 2808 rec. Any advice on how to set this sub up with my mains which are Def Tech. BP7000sc.

Right now I have the crossover at about 90hz and the volume at 1/3 up on the HGS-18. Both Def. Techs are at about 11oclock on the bass level. So far it sounds pretty good but haven't had much time to play as of late.

I think the tricky part is going to be getting the HGS-18 to blend in with the subs in the BP7000s. Seems like the BP7000s have a bump at around 30hz.

Think I should level of the BP7000s as much as possible then crossover the sub output at about 90-100?

I'm trying to keep it some what simple for there may be some times when I may decide to leave the HGS-18 powered off, i.e. watching TV etc.

Thanks!

Jack

I would say bypass the crossover in the HGS-18.

John

Hi Curt,

I have a HGS12 bought new in early 2000. It quit working and I'm wondering if there is any DYI "test" that I can do to determine want has gone wrong? I live in SE Iowa so repair facilities are non-existant. Also, are parts still available from Velodyne for this unit if I can determine what to fix? It has been a great sub and I would hate to just pitch it!!

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You would only return the amplifier section and they still service the HGS series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks.....I'll do that.

Terry

John,

Sound like a good idea. One less place for adjustment...

Thanks!

Hi Curt,

I have a HGS12 bought new in early 2000. It quit working and I'm wondering if there is any DYI "test" that I can do to determine want has gone wrong? I live in SE Iowa so repair facilities are non-existant. Also, are parts still available from Velodyne for this unit if I can determine what to fix? It has been a great sub and I would hate to just pitch it!!

Parts were available around a year ago. I took mine to a repair place in Atlanta and they were able to fix it.

You might call customer service about a replacement. I replaced the amp on a DD-18 that way. It was around $350.00, IIRC.

I have an F-1550R that is about 13-14 years old. The problem is it sometimes squeals at about 2500 Hz. It is loud enough to be annoying when it is quiet, but not really noticable if I turn the music up to a medium level. I took it into Velodyne a couple years ago, and after running it a month they never saw the problem.

I've been paying attention to room temperature and humidity to see if I could find a correlation to when the squeal occurs, but there is none that I can see. It is some kind of feed back because my workaround has been to strategically place a few throw pillows in front of one side of the speaker, which almost eliminates the squeal. Yesterday, I turned it on, and it squealed LOUDLY. I cycled power to see if it would reset or do something different, but to no avail. Today, I was going to bring it in to Velodyne figuring they could see the problem now for sure. I turned it on, and don't you know it, it works perfectly. It is absolutely exasperating! HELP! Any ideas?

Hi,
I certainly don't have any idea. The only squeals I've heard from a Velodyne servo subwoofer is accelerometer related. I suggest you contact Dave Santos, Velodyne service manager (dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-464-2819) to see if he has any ideas.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You would only return the amplifier section and they still service the HGS series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt, newbie here. Same problem. HGS-12. The accelerometer came off, cooked the driver. I replaced the driver, then 2 months later, no sound. I had a repair shop locally look at it, and they got nervous! Can the AMP be troubleshooted at my end, or does it just get replaced? I so miss this sub, but $$$ is tight. Love this forum, it's huge!
Thanks,
Keith

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can still service the amplifier. You would only send in the amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi.
In my Velodyne dd-15 i hear a whish rumor like a fan in front the woofer.
I would know if this light rumor is normal.
Thank.

I'm not sure what you mean by a whish rumor, I assume some sort of noise. Is it there when the inputs are disconnected? How loud is it? I would do a software reset by pressing 8-9-0 on the remote. If possible give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey guys,

I picked up a used HGS-18 last week and I noticed tonight that when it's powered up and it does not matter if it has a RCA cable connected or not the sub makes a noticeable yet faint humming sound from the driver. Is this normal or should it be dead silent? Is this because of the class D amp?

I also noticed that it makes some rapid slight yet audible popping noises when first first up too.

Other then that it appears to work fine.

Thanks!

Also, I don't think it's causing the minior hum, I noticed that I can't insert a rca into the white input on the back of the sub. It looks like something gold is blocking it half way down the input... How much does it usually cost to repair an input on the amp?

I'm checking with the seller to see if he's interested in picking up the cost.

Thank you!

Jack

Hey guys,

I picked up a used HGS-18 last week and I noticed tonight that when it's powered up and it does not matter if it has a RCA cable connected or not the sub makes a noticeable yet faint humming sound from the driver. Is this normal or should it be dead silent? Is this because of the class D amp?

I also noticed that it makes some rapid slight yet audible popping noises when first first up too.

Other then that it appears to work fine.

Thanks!

Is it a hum or a silent woosh type of sound? That is the analog servo circuit. Both this and the "slight yet audible popping noises when first powered up" is normal with both of my HGS-18 models.

I recently sent in my amps for tune-ups that wasn't too costly.

John

The noise is the analog servo circuit and normal on HGS models. For repair estimates, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4416

I'm sending the amp out for the repair of the inputs and possible updates. Does anyone know who to tell if the amp has the latest updates? The person I bought it from said he sent it out in 2004 for a mark II update, but I don't see any markings on the outside of the amp regarding a update was done.

I'm sending the amp out for the repair of the inputs and possible updates. Does anyone know who to tell if the amp has the latest updates? The person I bought it from said he sent it out in 2004 for a mark II update, but I don't see any markings on the outside of the amp regarding a update was done.

If the the work was done by Velodyne they should have records from amps serial #. Contact Velodyne.

Are you sending your amp directly to Velodyne?

John

Velodyne service will make sure the updates are done.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Well I'm sending out my amp for a tuneup/upgrade is needed. I noticed the larger silver casing have a rev 8 on it...does that mean I have revision 8 of the amp? Isnt' there 9 revisions?

I further narrowed down he humming noise a bit. I noticed that if I switch between crossover in and out, that in is has much less hum then out. Out hums enought to be heard rather clearly from 10+feet away. I guess I'll put in a note in the box about this issue for I hope it's resolved as well.

Also does anyone know he differences between he HGS series? I was told tha I have series 2. How many series where there? Anyone know he changes?

There was the HGS, then the HGS-II which had the last updates, and then with the HGS-15 and 18 there was the HGS-THX Ultra which was THX certified. You can contact Velodyne service with a serial number and find out what work or modifications your subwoofer has. The contact for Velodyne service is: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the help earlier today Curt. The amp got picked up today for the input board replacement and latest updates. Having withdrawals already, especially since I just picked it up last week lol

Can't wait to get it back so I can use both inputs. I don't know what the previous owner did to mess up the white rca input jack.

Hope you have a speedy recovery.

I have a Velodyne HGS-18 subwoofer. I use line-level inputs for this sub. This sub has both a left and right inputs. My preamp only has a single output for the sub (no left or right).
Questions:
1. Do I need to use a "Y" adapter to split the single output from the preamp into the Left and Right inputs of the subwoofer? Or can I use the single connection? If using a single input, does it make any difference if I feed it into the left or right channel of the sub?
2. The HGS-18 has XLR inputs. Are those XLR for line-level inputs?
3. My preamp has both RCA and XLR outputs. Am I better off using cables with XLR connections to connect to the HGS-18?

Also, there is a low level hum noise coming out of it and I am trying to isolate it. I am using a generic cable and so I am looking at options for cables. Anyone using Blue Jeans cables? Other sugestions?
Thanks!!

Hi,
1) A 'Y' splitter is optional. I always use one as it provides additional input. Both input jacks are idenical. Make sure the sub has adequate input. Ideally the sub's volume should be around 9 or 10 o'clock, always well below half way.
2) Yes they are for XLR (balanced) inputs.
3) On normal length (below 20 feet) runs there is no advantage either way.
On all HGS subwoofers there will be a low level 'rushing' noise. It is the analog servo circuit and perfectly normal. It should not be audible more than a couple of feet away. Any 'RCA' interconnect cable will work fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Ideally the sub's volume should be around 9 or 10 o'clock, always well below half way.Hi, Curt...

Why the relatively low setting as the limit? I have a (roughly) 4350 cubic foot room, and the 9:30 position is enough, but I never knew you shouldn't go higher than 10 o'clock or so. What does the HGS series do when pushed too hard? Does the servo mechanism keep things in check, or is there audible distress?
.

all HGS subwoofers there will be a low level 'rushing' noise. It is the analog servo circuit and perfectly normal. It should not be audible more than a couple of feet away.This has certainly been my experience with the HGS18. After 11 years of use, I wouldn't have even known it was there had I not read a post about it and put my ear to the driver.

The input sensitivity on the HGS amp is designed to perform best with enough input to keep the sub's volume relatively low. The volume would be higher with very high efficient speakers such as Klipsch. I consider 11 or 12 o'clock to be the maximum for most installations. If the sub is run too high the result will be compression and higher distortion. There is almost never a problem providing enough input to keep the volume of the subwoofer in it's proper range.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430

Hi,
On all HGS subwoofers there will be a low level 'rushing' noise. It is the analog servo circuit and perfectly normal. It should not be audible more than a couple of feet away.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I've had a pair of HGS-18 subwoofers for quite a few years. Even when new I could hear the "rushing" noise from my 12 ft listening position.
When entering the room I could always tell if I had left an HGS-18 powered up.

I recently sent in both amps for a tuneup. Velodyne could not guarantee how quiet the tuneup would make them.

They are much much quieter but I can still hear them from the listening position when the room is silent.

Why would that be?

Thank you,
John

It is the analog servo circuit. It is more noticable in some rooms and some people are more sensitive to it than others. And having two, it will be twice as loud. There is no way to eliminate it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I've had a pair of HGS-18 subwoofers for quite a few years. Even when new I could hear the "rushing" noise from my 12 ft listening position.
When entering the room I could always tell if I had left an HGS-18 powered up.

I recently sent in both amps for a tuneup. Velodyne could not guarantee how quiet the tuneup would make them.

They are much much quieter but I can still hear them from the listening position when the room is silent.

Why would that be?

Thank you,
JohnI still find this really interesting since mine is so quiet.

Toe, I always hate posting a question right behind an unanswered question, but maybe someone can help me with an easy answer...

What the HELL am I doing wrong with the SMS-1? Seems like all I can do is make my sub sound worse. I'm within the window to return it, only by a day or so, and I'm really considering it.

If someone can just tell me that it's simply user error....that it's not possible for the SMS to make my sound worse when correctly set...then I'll keep it and continue learning how to use it. I thought I had a good grasp on things, but I guess not.

get that sorted out - I would consider the sm-1 one of the best bargins in
audio if using a quality sub(s)- nothing for the money can improve your sound as much
fantastic product -

i have a question regarding the dd-10 is it safe to increase the 20hz setting to the + 6db level the sub is playing in a large room and the auto setup is incressing it to that point
thanks

Hi,
No it is not safe. The DD-10 is not designed for a large room. The auto EQ is trying to compensate for the small subwoofer in your large room. I would set the subsonic fiter (setup menu) at 30hz (24db) and do no plus (+) eq'ing below 35hz. Make sure you are providing the sub with plenty of input, use a 'Y' splitter into both DD inputs and do not run the DD's volume above 35.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

i appreciate the response. though not really what i was hopping to hear,
or really expected given what these things cost !! i set most of the controls to your recommendations. couldn't quite bring myself to set the subsonic to 30Hz i set it at 20Hz with a roll off of 24.
you mentioned not taking the volume above 35 in my home theater where the measurements are 25L /14w/15ft ceilings with a 10ft opening into a area that is about twice the theater size the volume is only at 8 it just dose not have the visceral impact i was hopping for just cant feel it in my bones and higher volume although there is more bass it is not as coherent
it really dose make the quads sing with a ton of headroom if you haven't herd the new quads 22L2 you should check them out i replaced a pair of magnepan 1.6 with these i may take you up on your offer soon for some tweaking
thanks again

Getting the proper size subwoofer is critical. I can't imagine any knowledgable subwoofer person recommending the DD-10 for your application. I do really suggest you call me when you have the chance and I hope you'll reconsider and set the subsonic to at least 30hz. You won't hear any frequecies below that anyway and the sub will have a chance of a longer life.
Good Luck,
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

On an unrelated topic...I own a Pioneer KRP-600M plasma which has built-in 9 wpc amps for left and right TV audio to which one can hook up a small pair of speakers for regular TV viewing. I bought a pair of Def Tech Pro Monitor 800s for this purpose, but they are a little lacking in the bass. I am thinking about adding a small Velodyne sub in hopes of filling in the low end, since I have an SPL series sub in my regular theatre system. Here's my question: The Impact Mini seems that it might fill the bill, except it doesn't have a high pass crossover and since I would have to use the speaker-level inputs and outputs for this application, would this particular sub be the best choice? I'm trying not to spend a whole lot of money here, if possible. Thanks!

i appreciate the response. though not really what i was hopping to hear,
or really expected given what these things cost !! i set most of the controls to your recommendations. couldn't quite bring myself to set the subsonic to 30Hz i set it at 20Hz with a roll off of 24.
you mentioned not taking the volume above 35 in my home theater where the measurements are 25L /14w/15ft ceilings with a 10ft opening into a area that is about twice the theater size the volume is only at 8 it just dose not have the visceral impact i was hopping for just cant feel it in my bones and higher volume although there is more bass it is not as coherent
it really dose make the quads sing with a ton of headroom if you haven't herd the new quads 22L2 you should check them out i replaced a pair of magnepan 1.6 with these i may take you up on your offer soon for some tweaking
thanks again

With a room that size and open to one twice that size needs an 18" and would be better of with dual 18's.

John

Yes multiple DD-18's or DEQ-15Rs or DLS-5000Rs.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello,

I have a DD-10 that I am the third owner of it. I managed to cook the amp while I was connecting it with the speaker level inputs. I took the subwoofer to the local authorized Velodyne repair centre for them to repair. They confirmed that the amp was blown and gave me an estimate for the repairs. I gave them the goahead but when the went to order the amp from Velodyne, they were told that they needed a serial number before Velodyne would sell them the parts. Being the third owner the serial number sticker was gone from subwoofer and I could not find one on the box. So at the moment I stuck with a dead subwoofer.

Does anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Jim

p.s. This is my first post. I have been lurking for some time though.

Please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They should be able to help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

My FSR-18 started making some weird noises at certain frequencies- it is almost like a rubbing noise and it corresponds to the movement of the driver. I have the gain very low (8:00) and it still happens and it gets worse as the gain is increased. The noise always happens at the same point, so it definitely seems to be certain frequencies that cause the issue.

Does it sounds like a driver issue? Is there anything else I could check? Are replacement drivers still available for the FSR-18?



Thanks!
Mike

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They will be able to answer your questions.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Wanted to ask about the DD series. If I recall, this was introduced sometime in 2003 right? Is there an update or v2 of the DD series coming out?

The replacement is in the planning stage but no release date at this time.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey Guys,

I sent my amp in for updates. Do you guys know how long on average the turn around time is once the amp is received?

Thanks!

For that information, you need to contact Velodyne service: (408) 465-2851.
Curt (928) 858-4430

I am a proud owner of the DD-18 and have just changed my receiver to a Denon 4308A.
To set it up correctly which do I do first?
* Do I setup in the sub first and use the Denon Audyssey afterwards; or
* Do I setup in the Denon first and do the sub afterwards?

There are different opinions on this. I suggest doing the DD self-EQ (3-2-1) and then run the Audyssey and finally come back to the DD and do a manual EQ. Make sure the volume in the Denon for the subwoofer channel is in the positive (+) area. When running the Audyssey, I would set the volume for the DD at '10'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thank you Curt - much appreciated. :)

Hey Guys,

I sent my amp in for updates. Do you guys know how long on average the turn around time is once the amp is received?

Thanks!

When I sent in my HGS-18 amplifiers to Velodyne for tune-ups in house turn around was only 2 business days.

John

I just ordered 2 DLS-5000r subs. My room is about 3100 cubic ft. I've heard good and bad things about it. Sound and Vision magazine gave it pretty good reviews but the HSU sub seemed to get better marks. I mostly will be using the theater for movies but do listen to music also. If I don't like them will Velodyne take them back or will I be stuck. Thanks in advance.

Hi,
Velodyne does not sell direct, only thru dealers. You will need to talk to your dealer regarding their return policy. IMO you will be very happy with the performance of the DLS-5000Rs. They are one of our most popular subwoofers and offer great performance for the price. By having two units, you should have plenty of reserve for even the most demanding movies and live concerts.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

So I am ready to sheetrock and the electrical is in.... I have one remaining questions around my subs.

I will be connecting them to a Onkyo PR-SC885 and I plan to connect to main sub using Y connector and then daisy chain the "slave" using an RCA cable. I am also going to run a Serial (DB9) to the main sub and then another Serial (DB9) out to the slave.. Is that correct?

What about Video? Do I need to run video out to the main and then daisy chain that also?

Thanks,

Mark

You can daisy chain the audio signal from one sub to the other. You will intall a 9-pin RS-232 cable from sub 'A' (master) to sub 'B' (slave) so some remote commands can be passed. If you want permanent video feeds, then those cables will also need to be in place. You cannot daisy chain the video. If possible give me a call.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Saw a VX-11 in Fry's ad today, copy says that it's a new 10" sub. Is this the replacement for the VX-10?

John

John,
The VX-11 is the replacement for the discontinued VX-10. We will have documentation on the website very soon. Performance specs are about the same. It will play a little louder.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi.
I just bought an SPL 800i Minivee and i have trouble with the autopower. The Sub doesn´t turn off automaticly. I have read about that the problem could be wrong label, that i should have the handle turned to the other side instead. But that does not work for me. My sub is always on. My old sub was connected with the same cabel to myc receiver and i never had this problem.
I have an Onkyo 606 receiver.

Try disconnecting the input (signal) cable from the subwoofer and see if the unit goes off in about 15 minutes. Try this with the switch in both positions. If the sub goes off, then something in your system has enough low voltage to keep the sub on. If it will not go off without an input, then it is defective and should be returned to the dealer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Try disconnecting the input (signal) cable from the subwoofer and see if the unit goes off in about 15 minutes. Try this with the switch in both positions. If the sub goes off, then something in your system has enough low voltage to keep the sub on. If it will not go off without an input, then it is defective and should be returned to the dealer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks, Tried to disconnect the input cable, and i turned off (in the wrong posiotion). It, has to be something with my receiver then, strange, have the same settings as my previous Sub and the old one always disconnected ok.

I have read in a swedish forum about other people having this problem, one of them also has an Onkyo receiver... Well thank you anyway, then my Minivee isn´t faulty.

With the Onkyo receiver, I recommend having the volume for the subwoofer channel in the receiver well above half way (somewhere in the +4 to +6 range) and keep the MiniVee's volume below half way. Also use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks. This will provide maximum performance from the small subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

With the Onkyo receiver, I recommend having the volume for the subwoofer channel in the receiver well above half way (somewhere in the +4 to +6 range) and keep the MiniVee's volume below half way. Also use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks. This will provide maximum performance from the small subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I just bought the Minivee a couple of days ago. Im curious how long running in time does the minivee have? I am so far not fully satisfied with it. I bought it without listening to it because of several recommendations. I think the performance so far is not to good. The settings you recommended made it better, but mostly i lack the bass "feeling".
the difference between when i turn it on and off is sometimes not to great.

the first hours it was terrible, but then after 5 hours or so it seems to start performing. (when i have the sub turned off it takes a while to start performing well again). Could this just be a problem that will dissapeera when i have played it more? I would guess that it had maximum 12-15 hours of total running time in 3 days.

i followed your recommendations and set the receiver to +6 now, it´s better. but i hope the minivee will be getting better or i will have to change it to a miniten or something else.
Regards
Bulldog

IMO, there is no break-in period for subwoofers, though some would disagree. The MiniVee is designed for small rooms with no permanent openings into other rooms. The MiniVee-10 will provide better performance in most situations. The SPL-12 Ultra (Optimum-12 in the U.S.) would be much better for most installations.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I'm now the proud owner of a Optimum 10. I went from 2 Supercube III's to the single 10. I wanted a 12" but just can't make it fit. I lost a little bit of output but the sound quality is absolutely stunning in comparison. My system now just has a nice clean added low end that doesn't stand out. It actually makes my speakers sound a tier better than they are. I didn't realize how boomy and overpowering my system was before. I'm very impressed.

The sub definitely reaches low. I'd love to see what a DD-10 could do. I was debating between a used DD-10 or a new optimum with a warranty. I chose to go new maybe giving up a couple Hz for the security.

It's a shame it's so hard to find any praise for the sub out on any of these forums. I went on blind faith as there are few positive comments. Anytime a Velodyne is mentioned it seems the next reply is simply "you are a complete idiot if you don't buy a SVS or ID sub". Even when folks say they don't want an ID sub they want to buy from their dealer, they still just get an ID reccomendation. I find that so annoying that I actually refuse to buy one!

Just discovered this thread...

Anyone know what the impedance is on the FSX-12 driver??? (the manual did not seem to list that spec.)

Hi,
I would check with Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com). they may have that information. So you are aware, no other driver will work correctly with that subwoofer amp as it was a servo design.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi curt,

need your advice. I just got myself a Optimum12/spl-1200 ultra. My hall size is 12x12x10

Hooked it up to a pioneer sc lx-81. How should I configure the sub?

I ran the EQ function with sub volume 33. But when I run the MCACC (pioneer's version of speaker auto setup), it says my volume is to high. Finally the MCACC ran when I set the sub to volume 15. When the MCACC was done, the sub channel volume was -7db. The sub sounded soft and lifeless I must say.

Is there something I should tweak? Do I run the sub autoEQ again?

For your info, the MMACC would set my front speakers to -4, centre -5 and surrounds to -8.

Hi,
The auto-EQ runs at it's own preset volume. There is no reason to rerun the EQ. I would try setting the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel to about +2 and set the sub's volume to blend with the other speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
The auto-EQ runs at it's own preset volume. There is no reason to rerun the EQ. I would try setting the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel to about +2 and set the sub's volume to blend with the other speakers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

The reciever sub volume is a % of the main trim. It should never be any higher then "0". He needs to turn his sub gain to 9:00 am and the reciever sub channel (pink tone) to -5 and calibrate the sub gain using a spl meter to about 74 to 75 hz. Now rerun MCCAC and once it is finished, then blend the sub with the mains to your liking via the sub gain.

Bill

That may work. The receiver's auto set-ups are all over the place, that's why I do everything manually. Most of the time for a Velodyne sub we need the receiver's subwoofer volume well above half way. Experimentation and patience is the key.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey Curt, I just wanted to say I think you are doing an outstanding job and that Velodyne has yet to fail and always amazes me. I run two DLS 5000's and love them. Great job.

Thanks, and good to hear.
Velodyne will be closed next week for the Holidays. I will be available Monday thru Wednesday of next week.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Question: Volume on the SMS-1, mine is at 3 for a flat system. Running a Conquest and MFW-15 both gains about 10 on the dial. Receiver sub trim at +1.5 and also using a Anti Mode 8033. Setup is; AVR --- SMS --- Anti Mode --- LFE to subs. So by the time everything is calibrated and sweet, my volume is at 3 on the SMS-1. Anybody else running this low of a volume?

Bill

Unity gain for the SMS-1 is '15' and that's where I run mine. You could back off on the subs and receiver some and raise the volume on the SMS-1. It appears you are running the sub volumes quite high.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello everyone.

I'm currently considering the purchase of a Velodyne DD15, which is probably as cumbersome as it is good. Before buying it, I would therefore want to make sure it could be properly placed and set up in my room.

Here is a (old) picture of my set-up:

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9603/img0272daw.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/i/img0272daw.jpg/)

What has changed since the picture was taken that could affect the sub's positioning - the corners are now both taken up by DIY tubetraps 14.56 inches in diameter AND the front speakers are straight rather than inclined (I'm not even sure "inclined" is the right word here, but bear with me).

As you can see from the picture, my current subwoofer (an 11-inch cube) is placed under the wooden table that serves as a rack, where the DD15 wouldn't obviously fit. My idea would be that of moving the table leftward (it goes without saying that the center channel would remain where it is) and place the new sub between it and the right front speaker. There would be approx. 15.74 inches between the DD15 and the wall on its back.

Do you think this would be a viable solution? Or do you have any better suggestion to throw in?

The DD-15 with it's bass management and flexible EQ'ing will allow more placement options than other subwoofers. Your proposed location should work fairly well but if possible locate it closer to the rear wall. Subs need boundaries and work best when placed close to the wall.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the reply, Curt. In my proposed solution, the sub would end up being extremely near to the table on the left and the right front speaker on the right: would that be neutral, from an acoustic point of view? Or could it be a problem for either the sub, or the front right speaker (due to the vibrations caused by the bass output by the Velodyne)?

That should not be a problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430