Any thoughts or opinions on the Impact Mini? Thinking about grabing one at current low prices. Thanks

For it's proper use, that is a quite small room, it's really an excellent performer. It's also really fine as an add on sub for sound bars or projectors, or TV's with built-in speakers. Just keep in mind it's a 6 1/2" woofer in a small enclosure, a very good one though. At the price, consider a pair.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 848-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks for the info Curt. I'm actually looking at running two Mini's along side Def Tech Bi Polar Towers in a 13' x 14' room. The towers are set at full range and my hopes are that the Mini's will add a nice bounce to the mid lower frequencies.

I think they would do that very well.
Curt (928) 858-4430

A HT room that is 19x15x7, that is acoustically treated?

I'm going to be running B&W 802's up front and 805's (possibly 804's) for the surrounds.

I want to supplement the bass of the 804's/805's as sound is directional down to 60 Hz. But I'm not sure how to set this up. I thought about using speaker line inputs and manually setting the crossover. But that only handles 2 speakers at a time.

I currently have an older 1512 Velodyne sub.

I would go with a DD-15 or a DD-18 subwoofer. You could cross over all your speakers (802s also) at 60hz or 80hz without directional issues if properly set up. Many owners of your speakers use the DD-15 or 18 with outstanding results. I would use line-level preamp setup, not speaker level. The DD's will however let you try both hook up methods.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Guys I need some help, I am buying the Impact 10, my room is 12x20 I have Polk audio r50's for my left and right channels and Polk Audio RM7500 for my surrounds and Onkyo 705,currently I have the infinity sub BU2 forgot the model but would like to replace with Velo impact 10, I actually have 2 choices the impact mini (dual drivers) and impact 10 I can have each for below 200.00 with employee discount. Should I keep my volume level at 9 0clock position and crossover 80hz over impact sub and in my Onkyo 705 put in 80hz is that right I don't know anything about setting a subwoofer sorry for the newbie questions. and which one you guys can recommend the mini or the impact 10 I think the Impact 12 is overkill for my room size? TIA

Hi,
I would recommend the Impact-10 or Impact-12, not the small Impact Mini.
1) In the receiver make sure all speakers are indicated as 'small'.
2) In the receiver manually set the volume for the subwoffer channel at near maximum.
3) In the receiver set the crossover at 80hz.
4) At the subwoofer use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
5) At the subwoofer set the phase at '0'.
6) At the subwoofer set the crossover to 200hz.
7) Keep the sub's volume well below half way (9 0r 10 o'clock area).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
On the DLS-4000R, the light blinks tell you the volume. After pushing the volume up or down, the light blinks to indicate the volume setting. Long blinks are tens and short blinks are units. So three long and two short is volume '32'.
To reset everything to factory default, push the preset buttons on the remote in the following order: 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 (see manual). I suggest running the volume at factory setting (35) or lower. Half way up the sub's volume scale is too high. I recommend setting the receiver's volume for the subwoofer channel well above half way and back off on the sub's volume to compensate. A 'Y' splitter into both of the sub's input jacks is also a good idea.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Many thanks Curt.

I did what you suggested, now volume in the sub is around 25, and more or less 3/4 of the maximum in the AVR. So far so good, I just need to change equalizations to match my listening taste,

One more questions, related to aesthetics. It is possible to remove the grill of the DLS 4000R?

Hi,
We do not recommend removing the grill on the DLS series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
I would recommend the Impact-10 or Impact-12, not the small Impact Mini.
1) In the receiver make sure all speakers are indicated as 'small'.
2) In the receiver manually set the volume for the subwoffer channel at near maximum.
3) In the receiver set the crossover at 80hz.
4) At the subwoofer use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
5) At the subwoofer set the phase at '0'.
6) At the subwoofer set the crossover to 200hz.
7) Keep the sub's volume well below half way (9 0r 10 o'clock area).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com


Hi Curt thanks for the info, everything sounds good I bought the Impact 10 I followed your instructions just one question though,

When you said set the volume for the subwoofer at near maximum level in the receiver are you talking about the level calibration of the subwoofer? The maximum is +12 I had it set up for +10 is that right?

Thanks again in advanced. I will bring your phone number at work since AVS is restricted with our computer system.

Hi,
Yes, +10 for the subwoofer channel in your receiver is fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
Yes, +10 for the subwoofer channel in your receiver is fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Could you post a quick review of the Impact 10 and how it blends with you system after set up? I'm in the market for one of these as well. THX

Hi curt, I order impact mini from audioholics and will be scheduled delivery date of 12/04. I live in a apartment and the room is 16ftW x16L x8H. I know that impact mini appropriates for small room but how small. Will impact mini be ok for my room?
speakers: Energy Take Classic 5.0
receiver: Onkyo tx-sr707
subwoofer: comming soon
Thanks

Hi,
For your over 2000 cubic foot room I would have recommended a larger subwoofer. If the room opens into other rooms, then those must also be counted in the displacement. Since you are in an apartment and should be playing at lower levels, the Impact Mini might suffice. The sub is on it's way, so hook it up and see what you think. Use the previous set up recommendation (Rutlian post above) for the Impact series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello Curt & Velodyne,

I own both a MiniVee 8 (used in the HT system) and an Impact-Mini (used at my PC), and I've got a question about the amplifiers in both subs. Each sub amp has a perfectly adequate RMS power rating, but the marketing materials also state a much higher 'dynamic power'. From what I can surmise, the output sections of each amp are capable of delivering the higher power figure, but the difference in continuous and dynamic ratings are due to the power supply voltage sagging after being asked to deliver a certain amount of current for a certain amount of time; this would prevent large peaks from being clipped. My question is, does Velodyne use any internal standard for rating the dynamic power of the amplifiers across all model lines, and how long can either amp be expected to deliver its dynamic power before the output sags?

Best Regards,

Rory

Hi,
A well designed amplifier can normally double it's continuous (RMS) rating for a very short time, this is referred to as dynamic or peak output. I will check with engineering but as I recall this is normally less than a second. When doing comparisons I would always look at the continuous rating which should always be more than enough to push the driver to it's safe excursion. All Velodyne subwoofer amps have this capability. In your case, the MiniVee has a larger amplifier because a sealed box design requires more power for maximum performance than a bass reflex design like the Impact-Mini.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

You're right, 600 RMS, 1200 peak. Since it's an efficient design, it never uses near the maximum power anyway, but reserve is good.Back in 2007, you told me (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12623350#post12623350) that the power for the 5000R had been upped to 1000W (2000W peak). :confused:

Which is it??

Which Velodyne sub series has the largest cabinets? Silly question, but I know it is often said there is no replacement for displacement....although Velodyne often proves that wrong ;)

Well the DD-18 has the largest cabinet mainly because of the driver size. It is however a sealed box which means it is a less efficient (loud) design than the bass reflex designs (DLS and DEQ), so yes box size and driver size certainly matter as well as design. Normally a bass relex design (port or slot) will play louder than a sealed box design with the same size driver. A sealed box is considered by most to be more accurate. Another way to look at it is a bass reflex design will have a somewhat fuller sound and a sealed box will have a leaner sound and often go deeper.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne .com

Took delivery of a new Impact Mini and I must say, I am surprised at the performance of this little sub. Not the SPL output of the 10 incher it has replaced but much tighter and musical. My question is, I run a Digital Coax cable to the single L input, I have also tried a Y adapter to the L & R inputs as well. I cannot hear any distinct difference in output using either. I know Velodyne recommends the Y connect, but what is the advantage to doing so.
Thanks

Hi,
A 'Y' splitter will provide additional input. That, along with raising the volume for the receiver's subwoofer channel will enable you to keep the volume for the subwoofer low which is the recommended hook up for the Impact series.
Thanks,
Curt

Velodyne SPL-1000II Factory Renewed Maple
I'm purchasing this unit from one call for 599.00
how long dose velodyne warranty their factory renewed items for
thanks

The warranty is the same as new, that is 3 years on the amplifier and 5 years on the driver . Keep your receipt for warranty purposes.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,
Is the DD-18 Velodyne's single driver subwoofer with the most ouput?

Curt I send you an email at curt@velodyne.com regarding the purchasing or repairing of an amp for Velodyne DLS 5000r. I don't have long distance and can't reach you on the phone.

Hi,
For any repair issues, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,
Is the DD-18 Velodyne's single driver subwoofer with the most ouput?

Hi,
Yes the DD-18 has the most output and the deepest response.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have an SPL-1200R which has stopped working. It basically acts like it's not plugged in. The LED doesn't come on and it makes no sound. I've tried turning it on and off, plugging it into a different power strip, putting new batteries in the remote, etc. I got it spring of 2007. Any ideas?

Hi,
Your amplifier will need repair. Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Only the amplifier will need to sent in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

any word a revamped DD series?

Hi,
Sometime next year is the best answer I have.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

FOCUS ON STEREO SYSTEMS WITH TWO FRONT MONITORS COUPLED TO A SUBWOOFER

To the gentlemen from Velodyne:

Despite numerous inquiries, I have been unable to obtain a satisfactory answer to the following questing regarding hooking up one of your SPL-II subwoofers. I hope this is the venue for assistance.

I had been an audiophile (high-end equipment) for decades. Upon getting older and downsizing homes, I sold all of my high-end audio equipment. The primary focus in assembling my new (much smaller) A/V system was the best possible 2-channel stereo sound; let blu-ray surround fall where it may. My constraints in configuring the A/V system included a receiver (rather than separates) and 2-channel monitors coupled to a subwoofer (rather then full-range front speakers).

(If one were using full-range front L&R speakers, this would all be moot. However, assume that monitors and a subwoofer are a given.)

I purchased a Marantz 6003 receiver, as it was by far the best sounding receiver on 2-channel stereo that I auditioned. (I shall audition an NAD and the ARCAM when I locate a stocking dealer.) The monitors are NHT Classic Threes and the subwoofer is Velodyne Series SPL-II.

Of course the easiest method to connect the Velodyne is to the SW/LFE output on the receiver; monitors connected to the L&R speaker outputs; and HDMI from the CD/SACD/Blu-ray player. But in so doing, the bass management function of the receiver must be enabled.

For those who want THE BEST MUSIC REPRODUCTION POSSIBLE, and have a disc spinner like the new Oppo 83SE (note the “SE”), the entire signal path from the CD/SACD player forward must remain ANALOG, using the player’s analog RCA outputs and receiver’s analog RCA inputs, not HDMI. If the signal is run into a pre-amp or receiver where the bass management is engaged, then there is yet another A>D conversion occurring, which entirely negates the potential advantage of a very high quality CD/SACD player analog output . . . may as well use HDMI.

One method to maintain the pure analog path would be to disengage the receiver’s base management; designate “full-range” front speakers in the receiver’s set-up function, and run (1) full-range speaker signal to the L&R speaker-level input on the Velodyne subwoofer, (2) feed the L&R monitor speakers from the subwoofer’s speaker-level output, and (3) engage the subwoofer’s crossover (at, say, 80hz). Were this arrangement applied, I could use the receiver’s analog inputs and “direct mode” (all analog signal path) — in which case all of the potential benefits of the analog circuitry in the Oppo 83SE or other high-quality player would make sense.

I telephoned Velodyne about their thoughts. A fellow in customer service, while he tried to be helpful, clearly had not a clue about any of this. I called Velodyne a few days later; this second person appeared much more with it. He stated that although all of the better Velodyne subs incorporate speaker-level connections, he very much recommended against it, STRONGLY preferring instead that the RCA “LFE/SW” output jack on my receiver be connected to the LFE line-level input on the subwoofer. He stated that that’s how the Velodynes are really designed to operate optimally.

So I’ve been on the fence wondering what to do. If I use my receiver’s base management function and the SW output, and connect it to the Velodyne’s LFE input, then there seems to be no reason to spend big bucks on an audiophile-level CD/SACD player, as the additional A>D conversion degrades the signal to essentially mass-market, mid-fi quality. On the other hand, turning off the receiver’s bass management function and connecting the receiver’s L&R speaker outputs to the Velodyne subwoofer and its crossover seems not to be the recommended course of action by Velodyne.

Finally, even if utilizing the Velodyne’s speaker-level inputs is perfectly ok (for an all-analog 2-channel signal path), when using the system for 5.1 surround movies, there would be no “.1”, i.e., no subwoofer. Would it therefore be ok to use the speaker-level inputs and, IN ADDITION, an RCA cable from the receiver’s SW output to the LFE input on the subwoofer, or would that not be recommended?

Any counsel here?

Thanks for any thoughtful responses.

Howard

Hi,
I had a very long conversation with you. I assume I'm the second Velodyne person you refer to. First of all Velodyne subs are not designed to have two inputs so the safe way is to either hook it up speaker level or line level. I suggested you could certainly hook it up speaker level, though that was not my first choice for a H/T system. This all revolved around the possible purchase of the 'SE' version of the DVD player because you wanted to avoid the digital processing of the receiver's bass management. To accomplish that, you would indeed have to hook the sub up speaker level. As I told you, go ahead and hook the sub's to the speaker level, that's what the connections are there for. I never said it was not a recommended hook up. I merely pointed out the process of the two methods.
Yes if you decide to purchase the 'SE' player and don't want the signal involved with the receiver's bass management by all means use the sub's speaker level hook up. Another possibility is eliminate the A/V receiver and go with stereo components in a 2.1 system.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

any word a revamped DD series?

Bigred,
I'm hoping the revamped Velodyne DD subs can compete in output with the DIY and small builders. Seems like there's nothing but fans of that stuff on this forum anymore, but Velodyne had better step-up and build subs with more output. I don’t care if they increase driver excursion or increase the size of the box, but I just don't want to have to buy a subwoofer that looks like someone built it in their garage and has zero resale value when I upgrade.

For those who want THE BEST MUSIC REPRODUCTION POSSIBLE, and have a disc spinner like the new Oppo 83SE (note the “SE”), the entire signal path from the CD/SACD player forward must remain ANALOG, using the player’s analog RCA outputs and receiver’s analog RCA inputs, not HDMI. If the signal is run into a pre-amp or receiver where the bass management is engaged, then there is yet another A>D conversion occurring, which entirely negates the potential advantage of a very high quality CD/SACD player analog output . . . may as well use HDMI.



I don't actually agree with this. For some processors (such as Lexicon), the gains made in room EQ correction outweigh the very small losses of the additional A->D stage. Unless you have a treated room of course!

Also, the Oppo SE is no King of quality. The SE version has better analogue stages but it is still not to the same level as some other choices particularly for multi-channel SACD for example. The Oppo SE uses a monobloc DAC for the multi channel outputs. There are no monobloc DACs that exist today that can match the quality of individual DACs (or multiples of). The choice of capacitors/op-amps/power supplies also radically affect the sound, and the Oppo is only part of the way there too.

It is all very well being a purist, but on the other hand I think you have to spend a lot more money on the source to keep it all analogue.

I have a Lexicon RT-10, Sony S5000ES, Lexicon MC-12, Bryston amps, Kef Reference 4.2 fronts, Ref 1.2 sides, Polk f/x 1000 rears, DD-18 sub. I have spent way too many hours comparing analogue bypass, or the additional A->D stages required to get bass management, distance management (another important one for mch SACD), and room EQ. And I can tell you that the gains of having these executed as well as the Lexicon does, completley outweighs any loss in the conversion. I should add that I am not using HDMI in my set-up because the MC-12 doesn't have it. So my focus here is on the A->D stages rather than a debate about HDMI vs analogue.

This is only my opinion. I just felt you were making things difficult for yourself here and Im not 100% sure you will get the results you are happy with.

Bigred,
I'm hoping the revamped Velodyne DD subs can compete in output with the DIY and small builders. Seems like there's nothing but fans of that stuff on this forum anymore, but Velodyne had better step-up and build subs with more output. I don’t care if they increase driver excursion or increase the size of the box, but I just don't want to have to buy a subwoofer that looks like someone built it in their garage and has zero resale value when I upgrade.

Compete while maintaing the musicality and timing of the current DDs. I always felt there was a trade-off to be made between having that precision, texture and musicality in the bass, or having all-out thunderous bass slam. I will be interested to see if Velodyne can achieve both. That being said, if you put a DD-18 in a medium sized room (as opposed to a large room) like I have, then it pretty much delivers in both already.

I don't actually agree with this. For some processors (such as Lexicon), the gains made in room EQ correction outweigh the very small losses of the additional A->D stage. Unless you have a treated room of course!

Also, the Oppo SE is no King of quality. The SE version has better analogue stages but it is still not to the same level as some other choices particularly for multi-channel SACD for example. The Oppo SE uses a monobloc DAC for the multi channel outputs. There are no monobloc DACs that exist today that can match the quality of individual DACs (or multiples of). The choice of capacitors/op-amps/power supplies also radically affect the sound, and the Oppo is only part of the way there too.

It is all very well being a purist, but on the other hand I think you have to spend a lot more money on the source to keep it all analogue.

I have a Lexicon RT-10, Sony S5000ES, Lexicon MC-12, Bryston amps, Kef Reference 4.2 fronts, Ref 1.2 sides, Polk f/x 1000 rears, DD-18 sub. I have spent way too many hours comparing analogue bypass, or the additional A->D stages required to get bass management, distance management (another important one for mch SACD), and room EQ. And I can tell you that the gains of having these executed as well as the Lexicon does, completley outweighs any loss in the conversion. I should add that I am not using HDMI in my set-up because the MC-12 doesn't have it. So my focus here is on the A->D stages rather than a debate about HDMI vs analogue.

This is only my opinion. I just felt you were making things difficult for yourself here and Im not 100% sure you will get the results you are happy with.


Thanks for your input, Jon. While of course this is a Velodyne thread, not Oppo or analog vs. HDMI; I'll respond briefly --

I do not need, and do not use, the room EQ function of my Marantz receiver. Of course the Oppo 83SE is not the ultimate in high-end disc players. It is, however, probably the best "buy" in the marketplace: Blu-ray, SACD, DVD-A and CD, with excellent sound quality in 2-channel, full-analog mode, all for $800 (U.S.). $800!!

Recall I wrote that I downsized my home and my life -- including stereo system. I'm using a receiver -- a very good one for music, but still a receiver -- and the Oppo allows one to play every disc with just ONE machine, a great advantage in my situation.

In terms of all my requirements -- including one machine that plays every disc format and capable of excellent 2-channel stereo music reproduction -- and factoring in the MONEY, I am not aware of anything that can compete with the Oppo.

Looking ahead, I have no doubt that other manufacturers will market players competitive with the Oppo. Indeed, Jon, I notice that you're from the U.K., which I believe is the home of ARCAM. I would not be surprised if within a year or so they bring out a player that does it all and incorporates a fine analog stage for 2-channel music. In fact, I'd really like to audition their AVR-600 receiver, but I can find no stocking dealers around me (and the price is $5000 - $6000 (U.S.)). However, if Santa were to drop one in my stocking, likely that would be an even greater reason to invoke all efforts to maintain a pure analog signal path from the CD/SACD player to the speakers.

That's my perspective,

Howard

I just ordered 2 DLS-5000r subs.

I have had mine for over a year and love it. It can play super load on movies (110DB) and is great on music too.

Two should load your room nicely.

Hi,
I would recommend the Impact-10 or Impact-12, not the small Impact Mini.
1) In the receiver make sure all speakers are indicated as 'small'.
2) In the receiver manually set the volume for the subwoffer channel at near maximum.
3) In the receiver set the crossover at 80hz.
4) At the subwoofer use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer input jacks.
5) At the subwoofer set the phase at '0'.
6) At the subwoofer set the crossover to 200hz.
7) Keep the sub's volume well below half way (9 0r 10 o'clock area).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

The reciever sub volume is a % of the main trim. It should never be any higher then "0". He needs to turn his sub gain to 9:00 am and the reciever sub channel (pink tone) to -5 and calibrate the sub gain using a spl meter to about 74 to 75 hz. Now rerun MCCAC and once it is finished, then blend the sub with the mains to your liking via the sub gain.

Bill


I just rcv'd a Velodyne Optimum 12 as a present. I only have room for a small sub woofer and I live in a Florida "great room" house which all the rooms are open (2,000 sq ft house, but > 10,000 cu ft if you do the math). I am now running dual subs (the other sub is a SVS PB13 Ultra from 2 years ago). My rcv'r is a Denon 4810ci that runs audyssey equalization.

I first ran Auto Eq on Optimum 12 (80Hz crossover, not sure what the phase is set at since there's no external knob for phase control). Then I ran Audyssey Eq from Denon Rcv'r. After calibration completed, I noted my sub gain controls were much lower than 9am on PB13 and 20 (30 is the factory default) on Optimum-12 to achieve 76dB read out from audyssey microphone. I then had to crank up the rcv'r subwoofer gain +13 dB (from -2dB to +11dB) to get the punch I'm use to (listened to reference blu ray movies). My rcv'r and valodyne sub are new to me (less than 1 month), so not sure what "proper set up" is yet. One other thing, my Denon's Audyssey sets fronts as large and each speaker pair has its own crossover settings (don't remember if any of them are set to 80Hz crossover). All other spkr's are set small. I run 11.1 (which is new to me) with wides and heights.

1. Do I set up the Optimum 12 like the Impact-12? See above.

2. Do I rerun Audyssey after I lower the rcv'r sub gain (from -2 dB to say -10dB), crank up SVS and Valodyne gain to 9am/30 to match 75dB on spl meter?

I don't want to stress subs ... I'm not sure what I'm doing but I feel safe by keeping both sub gain controls under "9am" setting until I figure out what is proper with the new equipment.

Thx.

You are combining two subwoofers of much different design which is not a good idea. The Optimum is a small sealed box designed for small rooms, the other sub is a bass reflex (louder playing) sub. I can only speak for the Optimum. I would manually call all speakers 'small' in your Denon. Use a 'Y' splitter into both inputs of the Optimum subwoofer. In the Denon set the volume for the subwoofer channel to about +6 and keep the Optimum's level to no higher than 30 (20 is fine) for now, You would then set the other sub to blend with the Optimum and the speakers. If possible, I highly recommend you call me tomorrow.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have posted about this in the past, but I have never completely resolved this issue - the IR remote for my DD-15 does not seem to work. I have verified that the remote itself is fine - it has good batteries, and it works on other DD-15s (I tried it on some others).

My DD-15 works - it detects signals and amplifies them. It displays the right info on the screen when I view the video out. But no remote functions work at all - power, volume, menu, etc.

Hi,
I have never heard of your problem before. Have you tried doing a software reset (8-9-0) when the remote is working? It will unfortunately erase all your settings. Do you have the latest software? If not, do the upgrade. If this doesn't help, on Monday please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or [email]service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Actually, Curt, you have. Remember this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15420968&highlight=#post15420968"]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15420968&highlight=#post15420968

and this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15346386&highlight=#post15346386

and this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15229030&highlight=#post15229030

Sounds like similar problem and there's a possible solution in that post of mine.

i have found something very interesting i originally purchased a dd-10 a couple of months ago i must say i dose sound good not a tremendous impact in my large room but sounds is very clean and blends well i found the eq had trouble getting some of the peeks and valleys corrected but at 50 years of age and to much loud music over the years couldn't really tell in sound quality but i do like to tinker and try to get at least the best eq i could .
here is the interesting part. I found a excellent deal on a referb spl-10 got it at onecall for 500 delivered when i hooked it up with the dd- 10 and then rechecked the eq adjusted back to a flat response for the dd-10 i found that with the added spl-10 in the system my response without eq adjustment was now virtually flat across most of the trouble areas and now only required a minor adjustment with volume and eq
SO HERE IS THE QUESTION I WOULD LIKE ANSWERED !!!!! you can achieve a flat frequency response in volume across the eq of the dd-10 but when i checked the level with a slp meter i found the subs volume level to be much lower then the main speakers when corrected to match the sub to mains with the spl meter it now produces much much more bass
when rechecked with the eq the response is still flat but starts to rise at around say 60 Hz and the difference looks pretty dramatic on the eq OK so which is a correct a slp setting with blended sub and main speakers or a completely flat eq response how would the content of music and video be designed to be herd
thanks

Laager,
Well actually I did not remember. Too long ago at my age. It may well be the same issue.
Mamsterla is in touch with repair/service over this issue. Thanks for the reminder.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Sotobird,
In the DD manual we state, "after doing the EQ, raise the sub's volume to where the bass sounds correct as flat bass (volume wise) will not usually be loud enough." So always go with what sounds correct. Ears Rule!
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

thanks for both responses there is so much hype on the spl meter wasn't sure which would be closer to being accurate to blend the speakers even though the combined area is about 6500 cubic ft I'm not over taxing the subs the dd-10 is at 10-15 on the volume depending on the source the spl-10 is about a 1/4 volume and the receiver is set to a +2 on the sub level.
speakers crossed at 80Hz and the subsonic is at 29 and a 24 slope that seamed to match the spl-10 when observed on the dd-10 eq the spl-10 sounds surprising close to the dd-10 which is impressive
true they are not 15 inch drivers but for a total of $2000 for both subs the sound is excellent for music and not bad for movies

It appears you're in good shape, setup wise. I always found the SPL and the new Optimum to be great performers as long as they are not pushed too hard.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt .
If i buy one Velodyne 1812 (second hand) from USA , i have a OFFICIAL possibility to modify from 110V to 220V in USA (California), and if you know a price for this. Sorry for my english.
Thanks from Romania.

You would need to contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see about having the modification done and what the charge would be.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

i am finally narrowing down my subwoofer search and these are the current choices:

Velodyne SPL-1000R (thought you might have input or helpful suggestions)

OR

Sunfire True Subwoofer EQ 10 Signature or Solitaire - TS-EQ10

I have a medium sized living area and listen to mostly 2 channel stereo (Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated, 550C CD Player, 550T Tuner, Paradigm Studio 10s and I dont even own a TV) haha. I love the idea of a small sub tucked away thumpin like the BIG boys!! I have owned a Velodyne in the past (VA-1012X) but always dreamed of a Sunfire cube. My only real concern is if a 10" subwoofer and/or passive can keep me entertained. You know will the bass and performance be enough...will it be better than my old school VA-1012X which shook the walls and aided me in many a noise citation courtesy of the Santa Barbara Police Department?

Curt I wanted to follow up on the thread - Laager's suggestion to check the connector for the remote was a good one. I pulled the amp board out, found the connector for the remote. I recrimped the female sleeves on the connector and then reattached it. It was very tight afterward. Since then, the remote has been working without issue.

Audiodaze74,
Without knowing the total cubic displacement (medium doesn't tell me enough) and if there are permanent openings into other rooms, it's difficult to make a recommendation. Our new Optimum-12 would be a great choice if the room is no more than 3,000 cubic feet.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

Just wanted to say that I'm liking the Optimum very much. It seems a little tight/stiff so I know a break-in is still needed for it to open up sonically. I'm certainly looking forward to when it does, hopefully this weekend... :D

Anyway, I do have a question. According to the manual, it says that the remote can be magnetically attached to the upper left corner of the sub on the back. For some reason, my remote is not attaching at all. I've tried both upper corners on the back of the sub and nothing happens. Any thoughts? I'm just curiuous...

Thanks,
BigWil

Hi,
I just tried my remote on the Optimum and it will stick to the upper left corner, not really a lock, but it does stay in place.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

hi curt, could you let me know please for a DD15 what is the latest firmware ?

just got another. and both my old one and new have v2.2.0 loaded. the website mentions a 2.2.2 but looking at the documentation it is 2.2.0 ?

also with 2.2.0 you are able to I believe bypass the xover with pressing the select and reset button when highlighting the xover setting - this is according to the documentation but not been able to do it. Best I can do is 199 as a setting.

ps the velodyne front light on my older one looks a bit dimmer than the velodyne light on the newer one. is there a way of adjusting this ? I thought there was apart from just being able to turn the light on/off.

thanks in advance :)

The latest DD software is 2.2.2. The last software update addressed an issue with another companies remote. Your sub's should be able to turn the crossover off. I'll set one up later today and send you a PM with the proper sequence to turn it off.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

The latest DD software is 2.2.2. The last software update addressed an issue with another companies remote. Your sub's should be able to turn the crossover off. I'll set one up later today and send you a PM with the proper sequence to turn it off.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

thanks very much curt. tried it again as suggested and it has worked on both subs, very much appreciate your pm :)

Forgive me if something such as this has already been covered, however 211 pages is a bit to read through when a common search term doesn't exactly work here.

I have a Velodyne 10" subwoofer, model VA10BVX10, and recently the amplifier has been acting a bit strange. Unplugged, or plugged into the receiver makes no difference, as reference. So it's definitely the Subwoofer.

It will at random start to produce noise at a frequency that seems to match the frequency of AC power, so ~60Hz or so. I had plugged it into my garage outlet, and the humming of the ballast in the florescent lights matched it. It's very loud, and I have tested a few basic electronic components, including the large bridge diode.

Any thoughts here?

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance, and Happy Holidays.

-Aaron

Hi,
Happy Holidays to you too. I'm sorry this thread is not set up to handle repair issues. I recommend you contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Your amp can still be repaired and you would only send in the plate amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

My fronts are set to crossover at 60hz and my centre is set to crossover at 80hz, with all speakers set to "small". Its been a while since i looked behind my DLS5000r, but today when i was cleaning up i noticed that the low pass crossover was set at 100hz:confused: I guess i must have moved it there my mistake or someone else in my house. For now i have set it back to 80hz. My question is this correct or should it be set to direct, as i dont remember what i set it to initially, which was a long time ago. Thanks.

Hi,
I'm assuming from your post that the 60hz and 80hz crossovers are set in your receiver. If so, then the subwoofer should be set to 'direct' which is crossover bypass. Your past setting of 100hz would not have any adverse effect since it was above your receiver settings. The 'direct' setting is the correct one.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I'm currently running a DLS-4000R in a room of about 4500 cubic feet that opens onto an open stairway. Bass is sufficient. Seems to be a bit directional and can be boomy. Sub is in the left corner of the room. Solutions I've considered is another 4000-R. Would need to be placed beside the existing sub. I've also considered just one 5000R. While I have two sub outs on my Integra DHC 40.1 my USP-1 2 channel preamp only has one sub in and sub out.

Any reccomendations are appreciated.

Hi,
I would go with the DLS-5000R or DEQ-15R. You still might be undersubbed but the 15" has a lot more reserve than the 12" DLS-4000R.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Without intending to sound biased, why is it that you never recommend a DD series sub?

Hi,
I recommend DD subs all the time. My job is primarily on the phone. On the forum I have to make assumptions and in most cases as the previous one, the question asked and usually budget come into play. For over 4000 cubic feet the DD recommendation would be two DD-18s and that would be about $8K. The DD and Optimum series are sealed box designs which are less efficient (don't play as loud) as bass reflex designs. For those who want and can afford the very best Velodynes then the DD's are always the recommendation. Without question, the DD-18s are my favorite subwoofers. But when it comes to 'bang for the buck' (as in most cases), the DLS and the new DEQ series are great subwoofers and if it had to be, I could be very happy owning one or two with a big smile on my face.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Summary: DD-10 plays sweep tone during quick start self-eq, but does not play one during manual eq.

I just purchased a Velodyne DD-10. It has the latest 2.2.2 software installed. I first performed quick start self-eq. The sub played ~25 sweep tones. When I entered the setup screen the sliders were not all zero, indicating the quick start worked. I connected the sub out to my stereo, and heard the tone played by my stereo speakers. The system response graph showed the tone being heard by the microphone. However, when I raised the sub volume I didn't hear any sweep tone being played by the sub.

I tried restoring the defaults (890) and performing the manual setup without first doing the quick start. Still no sweep tone from the sub in manual setup. I then repeated the quick start, and again heard sweep tones from the sub. I also tried various combinations of 0 volume and muting. No help.

Using the RCA LFE connection from my processor the sub is working fine for music and movies. I am just curious to see (and possibly tweak) the system response manually.

Another thing, possibly unrelated: per step 18 I tried setting EQ MODE: to AUTO. I got an message in the upper left of the screen like "MIC?". Which makes no sense since the mic was successfully displaying the system response from my stereo speakers at the time.

Ideas?

Summary: DD-10 plays sweep tone during quick start self-eq, but does not play one during manual eq.

I just purchased a Velodyne DD-10. It has the latest 2.2.2 software installed. I first performed quick start self-eq. The sub played ~25 sweep tones. When I entered the setup screen the sliders were not all zero, indicating the quick start worked. I connected the sub out to my stereo, and heard the tone played by my stereo speakers. The system response graph showed the tone being heard by the microphone. However, when I raised the sub volume I didn't hear any sweep tone being played by the sub.

I tried restoring the defaults (890) and performing the manual setup without first doing the quick start. Still no sweep tone from the sub in manual setup. I then repeated the quick start, and again heard sweep tones from the sub. I also tried various combinations of 0 volume and muting. No help.

Using the RCA LFE connection from my processor the sub is working fine for music and movies. I am just curious to see (and possibly tweak) the system response manually.

Another thing, possibly unrelated: per step 18 I tried setting EQ MODE: to AUTO. I got an message in the upper left of the screen like "MIC?". Which makes no sense since the mic was successfully displaying the system response from my stereo speakers at the time.

Ideas?
I just guessed the problem; I'll test it in the morning. During setup my Marantz AV-8003 Processor had Bass Mix set to MIX. In this mode analog stereo sources are only played through the L&R speakers, not through the sub. I'm guessing the manual sweep tone for the sub is supposed to be fed back to the sub via the LFE input, not generated internally (this would match levels from the processor). My earlier sub music testing was with multi-channel SACD sources; I had to switch Bass Mix to BOTH to get sound out of the sub for stereo music sources.

Make sure you are running the sweep tone (EQ-out) into an analog input and set the processor to stereo mode (front speakers only) and make sure your speakers are called 'small'. It's something in the processor that is not routing the sweep to the sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Make sure you are running the sweep tone (EQ-out) into an analog input and set the processor to stereo mode (front speakers only) and make sure your speakers are called 'small'. It's something in the processor that is not routing the sweep to the sub.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430
Setting the front speakers to 'small' in the processor did the trick. Thanks!

Happy New Year!!
Curt

got a new DEQ-15r not getting any sound from it its wired to a yahmaha rx-v3900 receiver through the sub input outputs any suggestions

If the subwoofer plays the signal when you do the auto-EQ, then the sub is working. Make sure to program the receiver correctly in 'speaker set-up'. Be sure to call your speakers small and indicate you have a subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt. A few quick questions from you. I just noticed that one of my DD-15's is not working properly. No sound coming from it at all. It is getting power because the blue Velodyne light is on. I'll have to double check, but I think it's still under warranty. I live outside of Houston. any recommendations as to how to trouble shoot before sending it in. Any authorized repair center in Houston. It was bought in Florida, so I can't take it to the store where it was purchased. Also, does the entire sub need to go or just the amplifier. Obviously, I have no clue whether its the amp or some other circuit board or what. Thanks for the help. Dr. Grizzle

Hi,
First do a software reset (8-9-0 on the remote), then do a self-EQ (3-2-1 on the remote). If the sub does not play the signal sweep, the the amplifier will need to be sent in for repair. If the sub does play the signal sweep then check your electronics for proper hook-up and programming. For service, on Monday contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com for a return authorization. Only the plate amp will need to be sent in.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thanks, Curt. It looks like I will be calling you on Monday for shipping and amp removal instructions. Dr. Grizzle

Curt - On the SMS-1, I have run the munual EQ in the Preset window and saved it. Then on the Preset buttons I have saved some audio levels for each button. When I play a movie and want more or less audio, I use the Preset buttons for this. Is this a OK way to do?

Bill

my velodyne SPL-1000R not powering on! I tryed unpluging, different wall jacks and nothing. My klipsch had fuse that I could chek, but not on this one!!!
what can I do or how can I test?, thanks...

Hi,
Sorry this thread is not set up for repair issues. On Monday, please call Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne/com. They will assist you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt - On the SMS-1, I have run the munual EQ in the Preset window and saved it. Then on the Preset buttons I have saved some audio levels for each button. When I play a movie and want more or less audio, I use the Preset buttons for this. Is this a OK way to do?

Bill

HI,
It is one of the intended purposes and many including me use it that way.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
Sorry this thread is not set up for repair issues. On Monday, please call Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne/com. They will assist you.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt, sorry for crossing some rules and I will be calling repair/ warranty service. I didn't no that I could ask a ?, as there could be simple solution to save everyones time. On my Klipsch it was just a fuse, thanks.

Hi,
No problem. Based on my experience, there is no simple fix for your subwoofer. I wish there was. In all likelyhood the amp section will need to be sent in for repair if the unit won't power up.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hey thanks again for your time im gonna just send it back its brand new i should not have to go through this i just wanted to make sure it was not a program error.

On SMS-1 will a vol of "0" bascially shut down volume so no sound is being passed?

Is there a suggested "minimum" volume number for the SMS-1?

On SMS-1 will a vol of "0" bascially shut down volume so no sound is being passed?

Is there a suggested "minimum" volume number for the SMS-1?

I've gone all the way down to "1" for volume in the past. I'm now at "4" for a flat system (sub at 72-73 db).

Bill

While there is no minimum suggested setting for the SMS-1, volume number 15 is unity gain (straight thru for the device, no gain, no loss) and what I use. You can adjust the input device (receiver or processor) to determine the SMS-1 volume. If you are using a stereo preamp you will not have that ability.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi, new to this forum. I recently picked up a ULD 18. For some reason it just doesn't sound right to me. I'm comparing it to my ULD-15 and the 15 sounds much better.
The person I got it from had the driver re-foamed. Is it possible the foam is too stiff? Or maybe the speaker needs to be broken in?
I put in a test disc and 30 hz sounded/felt fine but 20 hz there was nothing even though the driver was moving.
Any thoughts? Could it be the amp?

Hi,
It could be the refoam job. Velodyne doesn't work on the ULD drivers. BTW, you shouldn't hear much of anything at 20hz and the cone should be moving. The distortion is extremly low on the ULD-18 so there would be none of the audible second harmonic 40hz. You should barely hear 30hz. So the sub may be performing fine.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hey curt just wanted to say thank you, I ended up opening the sub to find out there was a speaker wire disconnected all that trouble for nothing, it sounds great now. I have one other question the auto EQ set up should it be done through the deq-15r or through my yahmaha receiver they both offer the adaptive EQ. I can not adjust it manually because do not have the experience. Thanks again mike.

Hi,
The DEQ-R has much more EQ capability in the bass region than your receiver. I would do the DEQ-R's EQ first and then do the receivers. Good to hear you found the problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

MIKEY, Do the Velodyne DEQ-R subwoofers have foam or rubber suspensions? I am thinking of buying the 12" on amazon for 611.00. Is that a good price?

The DEQ-R's have treated foam surround.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

emilysona
check with onecall.com they have a referb deq-r15 on sale
for eather 599 or 699 cant remember which i have bought from them in the past and they have great customer svc and a actual store in spokan wa

The DEQ-R's have treated foam surround.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

How resistant is the "treated foam"? I live in a tropical country (hot & humid). My last sub came with foam suspensions and after breaking them twice I had someone install rubber suspensions on it.

Maybe these treated foam suspension are much better than the ones made 10 years ago, I don't know..

I am upgrading my sound system for Canton GLE 470 (Main) & GLE 455 (Center). I always wanted a VELODYNE sub, but I don't know if foam suspension on a VELODYNE sub can stand up to my climate. It would be a crime for me to install modified suspensions to this subwoofer after 2 or 3 years.

What do you think?

Hi,
The current foam treated surrounds are much better than what was availble ten years ago. We sell these units in humid climates without any issues. There is a five year warranty on the driver (woofer).
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Is the Microvee better sounding than the CHT12Q, or is it's claim to fame simply its size?

I can get the Microvee for less $$$ than that CHT12Q, yet the Microvee has a larger RRP, so I'm a bit confused if this is a good deal or not -- can you help?

Thanks!

Hey there, just a few quick questions on my new VDR-12 that I picked up for 299 at future shop boxing day sale. Sick deal as far as I'm concerned, anyways, the questions...

1) I've been reading alot of stuff in this thread regarding the use of a y-splitter to cable a single lfe output into the dual inputs on the sub. Is there any major benefit to this or will I be fine simply leaving it plugged into the input that was labelled "single"?

2) A lot of mention was made as to leaving your sub gain quite low and potting up the LFE channel in the speaker levels config. Despite the manual saying that my subs default gain was 30, when I lower the volume one button press and then back up one button press, it's indicating through the flashing that the sub's volume is (and was by default, and again after doing a reset) 42. Will I be fine leaving it default and then going through my amp's auto config which usually puts it at about +6? Or should I go ahead and drop the sub gain to about 30, ( I already dialled it down to 38 I believe after my previous auto config, it seemed far too loud to me) and just make the amps setting about 3/4 and then touch up with the gain afterwards? Thanks for any input you may have on this.

Darren

Hi,
1) In general a 'Y' splitter is an asset. It provides additional gain for the subwoofer and that is good.
2) You can do a software reset on your sub by pressing 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 on your remote. This should set the volume to '30'. A +6 on the receiver's subwoofer channel is a good setting and if the sub is too loud at factory default and +6 at the receiver, then back off on the sub's volume.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
1) In general a 'Y' splitter is an asset. It provides additional gain for the subwoofer and that is good.
2) You can do a software reset on your sub by pressing 1-2-3-4-4-3-2-1 on your remote. This should set the volume to '30'. A +6 on the receiver's subwoofer channel is a good setting and if the sub is too loud at factory default and +6 at the receiver, then back off on the sub's volume.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the quick reply Curt, much appreciated.
I have done the software reset on the sub a few times thinking I may have accidentally raised the gain bumping it or something, it remains at 42 everytime, (4 long and 2 quick) and as far as I remember that's exactly what it was when I first plugged it in. Not a huge deal as I find I have to lower the gain regardless. I wonder why that is though, seems odd. Was there a different revision on that model that may have used different settings? I read in a different thread that some models of the VDR-12 had a BV designation after the model number on the back of the sub, and the ones that didn't have that, also had no heat sink on the back. Different amp perhaps?

Is the Microvee better sounding than the CHT12Q, or is it's claim to fame simply its size?

I can get the Microvee for less $$$ than that CHT12Q, yet the Microvee has a larger RRP, so I'm a bit confused if this is a good deal or not -- can you help?

Thanks!

Hi,
Well it's not that simple and buying at a price or comparing prices can be very misleading. The two subs in question are indeed an apples and oranges scenario.
The very small MicroVee is designed for small rooms and for a small sub can play quite loud. It has no usable response below about 38hz. It is often used with soundbars or sound projectors in small areas. It's claim to fame is indeed it's very small size and mightymite output. It also has a really cool lifestyle appearence. The extruded aluminum enclosure is unique and certainly adds to the cost.
The CHT-12Q (DEQ-12R in the U.S.) will have a lot more output, go deeper and be much more appropriate for normal size rooms. It also offers DSP for auto room EQ, a digital readout for subwoofer functions, volume and of course a hand held remote for making changes at listening position.
Sonically, they aren't a lot different except the CHT-12Q will have deeper bass. In most cases if size doesn't matter the CHT-12R is the way to go.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,

I am currently using the DLS-5000R and am wondering how it compares to the new DEQ-15R.

Is there a large sonic difference between the two?

Thank you for your time.

Hi,
Sonically they are about the same. The difference beyond cosmetics is the auto room EQ and the digital readout for volume and other funtions on the front panel of the DEQ-R series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hey Curt,

I just purchased two VDR-12 sub and notice that one is causing a popping noise, i'm assuming its the circutry protection kicking in. But both subs are at the same gain (34) using a y-splitter and reciever SW level at -8db. i noticed the one causing the popping noise at loud volume is slightly different dated October 09 (it doesnt have a heat sink, comes with removable power plug and also has a guage switch. The other is the
VDR-12BV (dated July 09) and it works perfectly fine no matter what i throw at it. I even tried plugging it directly in my avr's sub out without the y splitter and the problem still persist. Any suggestions?

Hi,
Bring the subwoofer volume in your receiver for the subwoofer channel up to +6 and back off the volume on both subwoofers. If the one still pops, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

It worked!!! Thanks.

But now i'm curious to know on the latter model if the popping noise was a feature purposely implemented to keep the subwoofer volume down? I had to turn the gain down to 14 to remove the popping.

Hi,
No intential popping noise was put in to keep the volume down. However a subwoofer will often pop when overdriven. Your signal from the receiver was way too low possibly causing the sub to be overdriven. I know you said the other one operated fine under the same conditions. You can return the amplifier to Velodyne repair/service to see if it is defective.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi All,
I will be out of the office, traveling the rest of the week. I will try to respond as time and computer accesibility allows. I will be back on Monday.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
No intential popping noise was put in to keep the volume down. However a subwoofer will often pop when overdriven. Your signal from the receiver was way too low possibly causing the sub to be overdriven. I know you said the other one operated fine under the same conditions. You can return the amplifier to Velodyne repair/service to see if it is defective.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the reply and suggestion

Curt,

I know you're out of the office this week, so don't worry if it takes a few days to get back to me.

I bought a used DD-18 that didn't have the setup kit when I bought it. It didn't matter to me because I had one from the previous DD-18 that I bought new. After looking at the documentation for True-RTA (a PC-based Real Time Analyzer package, for those who don't know) I saw that the mic has to have a calibration file to accurately analyze the sound. I recently bought the setup kit on eBay, so I would have one for each sub, if I ever decided (heaven forbid) to sell the subs.

After saying all that, my question is: Do the mics that come with the DD series subs have to be calibrated to the specific sub, or is there a "generic" calibration file in the equalization software in the sub?

In other words, will any of the mics work for any of the subs or do you have to have the specific mic that came with that sub?

Thanks!

hi all
ive noticed that there is a new toy available on the market isolation platforms
for subwoofers designed to decouple the sub from the room
they are said to tighten up sound and take the vibration away from other geer so what you hear is the bass the sub was producing and not the room walls, furnature, pictures and so on has anyone tried one of these and what do you think i use 2 dd10 subs in my system and am always looking for a good tweek for the system

hi all
ive noticed that there is a new toy available on the market isolation platforms
for subwoofers designed to decouple the sub from the room
they are said to tighten up sound and take the vibration away from other geer so what you hear is the bass the sub was producing and not the room walls, furnature, pictures and so on has anyone tried one of these and what do you think i use 2 dd10 subs in my system and am always looking for a good tweek for the system

What's the new toy?

I'm sorry I do not have information on the device. Maybe someone else does.
Thanks,
Curt

[QUOTE=Rick13160;17861235]Curt,

I know you're out of the office this week, so don't worry if it takes a few days to get back to me.

I bought a used DD-18 that didn't have the setup kit when I bought it. It didn't matter to me because I had one from the previous DD-18 that I bought new. After looking at the documentation for True-RTA (a PC-based Real Time Analyzer package, for those who don't know) I saw that the mic has to have a calibration file to accurately analyze the sound. I recently bought the setup kit on eBay, so I would have one for each sub, if I ever decided (heaven forbid) to sell the subs.

After saying all that, my question is: Do the mics that come with the DD series subs have to be calibrated to the specific sub, or is there a "generic" calibration file in the equalization software in the sub?

In other words, will any of the mics work for any of the subs or do you have to have the specific mic that came with that sub?

Thanks![/QUOTE

Hi,
The mic that comes in the kit with the DD does not require calibration and is accurate for all DD subs.
Thanks,
Curt

[QUOTE=Rick13160;17861235]

In other words, will any of the mics work for any of the subs or do you have to have the specific mic that came with that sub?

Thanks![/QUOTE

Hi,
The mic that comes in the kit with the DD does not require calibration and is accurate for all DD subs.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt!

Greetings.

I have collected a total of 3 Model #: SPL10BGII subs while retrofitting theaters. All of them appear to have a power supply failure - no blue light, no nothing.

One of them used to be my personal sub, and I remember loving it. Is this a known issue, given the right tools and skills is it something I can repair myself? Else, can I at least pull the electronics and ship them somewhere (ideally in MN) for repair?

Thanks in advance :-)

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
You will only need to send in the amplifiers.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

I recently just bought a factory refurbished DSL-3750R from your authorized online dealer. After I connected the subwoofer to my HK stereo receiver, I tested some music and didn't hear any output from the sub. After a few minutes, I heard a loud humming noise. I tried to turn off the sub with the remote and it didn't work. I had turn it off with the OFF/ON switch in the back of the sub. When I turn it back, none of keys on the remote functioned and still no output is coming the sub.

The next day, I tried turning on the sub and test the remote. Surprisingly, the keys worked fine. However, after a few minutes, even with no wires connected, the loud hum came back and won't stop until I turn the unit off with the switch in the back.

Is the unit defective? Is this a common problem with the DLS-R series? The unit is dated May 2008. Also, there was no physical abuse that I can see with the unit with the exception of a few scratches on the glossy front panel, which is understandable since it is a refurb product.

I am in the process of getting the replacement unit in exchange for this one. Should I be worried buying a refurbished unit from Velodyne? If you don't mind me asking, where are these refurbs coming from? Do they go through the same quality control check just like the new units? From what I understand, Velodyne Refurbs do come with full manufacturer warranty right?

Hi,
Most often the damage is caused in shipping. The refurbished units carry a full warranty. If your exchange sub has a problem, contact Velodyne repair/service at:408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. There may be a simple wiring harness termination issue.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hi skool
im no curt but i have bought quite a few vel referb units over the years and they have always given great svc even after the store would not exchange after to much time i curently have 2 units that are referbs one bought local one online as long as it was a authorized dealer you bought from velo will stand by it many years ago i had a f-1200 the warranty had expired for a year and they still replaced a amp for me i just paid to ship it

Curt,
I just picked up a SMS-1 (new) and am trying to get it set up.

When I hit 12345, I hear the sweeps. When I do the auto EQ (321), it shows the graph but now sweeps are heard. Flat line at the bottom shows on the EQ.
On the Manual set up, I hear sweeps, but when I move the level down where i have a good dip up, it does not seem to make a change - there is no change in the curve.

If I hit test I get a Boot: Fail. I have unplugged the unit and have done a software reset - 890 I believe.

Is there a setting that I am missing?

Thanks for all your help.

I am currently traveling. I suggest you call me Monday when I am back at work. 3-2-1 is 'Self-EQ', not auto-EQ. You have to run the SMS EQ output jacks into a vacant input of your receiver. You might want to download the SMS owner's manual that Outlaw audio (outlawaudio.com) wrote. It's easier for some people to understand.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-443

does anyone know the subsonic frequency and slope that the spl-10 series 2 is set at

Hi,
Most often the damage is caused in shipping. The refurbished units carry a full warranty. If your exchange sub has a problem, contact Velodyne repair/service at:408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. There may be a simple wiring harness termination issue.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the quick response. Hopefully the next unit is fine. Given these standard presets built into the sub, what is the best way to calibrate the DLS-3750R sub with my Cambridge M60 bookshelf for listening to music?

hi skool
im no curt but i have bought quite a few vel referb units over the years and they have always given great svc even after the store would not exchange after to much time i curently have 2 units that are referbs one bought local one online as long as it was a authorized dealer you bought from velo will stand by it many years ago i had a f-1200 the warranty had expired for a year and they still replaced a amp for me i just paid to ship it

That is comforting to hear. Thanks.

So is there a "correct" way to set the gain\volume on my HGS15? I have it around 9 o'clock and my receiver (STR-DA555ES) sub level is set to 0. It sounds awesome, as it has for the past 10 years, but I'm curious.

Hi,
9 o'clock on a HGS volume control is excellent. It means you have plenty of input signal. So you're in good shape.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt, or anyone that can help. I have an old Velodyne SPL12vb (used to be knows as the SPL 1200) ... Love the sub! I want to add another sub but haven't been able to find that one used anywehere ... any advice on what current Velodyne sub would match it well?

Thanks,
Rony

I have 2 DD-18s and a Lexicon MC-12HD, the latter of which has 2 sub outputs plus one LFE. The Velodyne manual is pretty clear on how to master/slave the 2 DD-18s, but less clear on how to connect the master to the pre-amp. Anyone with knowledge and willing to share is much appreciated.

Hi,
I would use the LFE subwoofer jack. However I do not own a Lexicon so you might want to check with them.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt, or anyone that can help. I have an old Velodyne SPL12vb (used to be knows as the SPL 1200) ... Love the sub! I want to add another sub but haven't been able to find that one used anywehere ... any advice on what current Velodyne sub would match it well?

Thanks,
Rony

Hi,
The best current match is the Optimum -12. The Optimum series replaced the SPL series.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have 2 DD-18s and a Lexicon MC-12HD, the latter of which has 2 sub outputs plus one LFE. The Velodyne manual is pretty clear on how to master/slave the 2 DD-18s, but less clear on how to connect the master to the pre-amp. Anyone with knowledge and willing to share is much appreciated.

You certainly have many choices. I have the same and have found the best results with setting LFE to none and subs to mono. You can either send the signal to each DD-18 from the Lexicon's L/R sub outputs or send to just one and use the THRU jacks on the back of the primary DD-18 to forward the signal to the 2nd DD-18. Crossover frequency will need to be determined by you and the video output graphs of the DD-18's. Of course there are many other more complicated ways to setup these 3 pieces(I have 3 subs and have tried them all) but this is about the simplest. Season to taste and enjoy.

You certainly have many choices. I have the same and have found the best results with setting LFE to none and subs to mono. You can either send the signal to each DD-18 from the Lexicon's L/R sub outputs or send to just one and use the THRU jacks on the back of the primary DD-18 to forward the signal to the 2nd DD-18. Crossover frequency will need to be determined by you and the video output graphs of the DD-18's. Of course there are many other more complicated ways to setup these 3 pieces(I have 3 subs and have tried them all) but this is about the simplest. Season to taste and enjoy.

Dryeye--thanks for the advice!

You certainly have many choices. I have the same and have found the best results with setting LFE to none and subs to mono. You can either send the signal to each DD-18 from the Lexicon's L/R sub outputs or send to just one and use the THRU jacks on the back of the primary DD-18 to forward the signal to the 2nd DD-18. Crossover frequency will need to be determined by you and the video output graphs of the DD-18's. Of course there are many other more complicated ways to setup these 3 pieces(I have 3 subs and have tried them all) but this is about the simplest. Season to taste and enjoy.

Actually i would use ALL THREE outputs. Send LFE and Sub L to one of the subs, and send Sub R to the other one.

There is a known issue with the Lexicon that if you set LFE to NONE, and that if you choose a crossover of lets say 40Hz, then the LFE is also truncated. Anything from 40Hz-120Hz in the LFE channel is lost completely. I also want to emphasise that as the signals out of the LFE and Sub are completely unrelated, there is no issue with simultaneously sending both signals to one Sub. The two signals will be added in the DD-18. I have been running it this way (although only one DD-18) for well over a year.

So to summarise. Run 2 cables from the MC-12 to one of the subs. Connect Sub L and LFE outputs to the L and R inputs of the DD-18. And then run a third cable from the MC-12 to the other Sub from Sub R. When you run the EQ/calibration tests, it will sound the same sub twice but it does no harm. Also as the Lexicon supports stereo bass, you would be throwing away this feature if you don't make use of Sub L and Sub R outputs.

You are correct Jon about the rolloff of the LFE channel if jayjay300 chooses a rather low crossover of say 40hz in the MC-12HD. I assumed he would go with a more traditional higher one and let the subs handle more of the bass from his main speakers since the DD-18 are no doubt more capable. Thank you for pointing this out and describing a very creative work around. I would only add to your solution the idea of using a Y connector at the MC-12HD LFE out and feeding both DD-18's with the LFE as you describe.

Could someone give some advise on buying a velodyne sub. I can't decide between the DD 10, or the Optimum 12. What would I be paying the extra for on the DD 10? Is it just the room management system? Can I get the Optimum 12 to sound just as good with a little more adjustment? Thank You

Hi,
The most important thing is the size of your room and if there are openings into other rooms (total cubic displacement) and what the subwoofer will be used for. Go to www.velodyne.com, then under 'which product' and check the sizing wizard. Both the mentioned subwoofers are small and designed for specific applications. Of the two, the Optimum-12 can be used in a larger room. It it most important to select the proper size subwoofer. The Optimum-12 has a very effective auto-eq system while the DD-10 has 'state of the art' bass management with unlimited capabilities. It's also a very good idea to look at the owner's manual of each on the website to help understand which series might be more appropriate for your needs.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Curt(or anyone that can help):My home theatre/music system is set up in a 28x10 room(8 ft. ceiling,tile floor) with 1/2 the room for the home theatre/music system and the other 1/2 for a dining area. It's an elaborate system(pre/pro,5 amps,B&W speakers) using a DEQ-15r sub. Everything is working as it should,levels are at the proper setting. When I walk into the dining area half of the room,the sub seems to be a little louder,deeper and has more of a "thump". Any ideas how I can get the sub to sound like it does in the dining area when I'm sitting in front of it? Moving the sub is not an option.:confused:

Hi,
That's the way bass works. The (long) wavelengths go as far as they can and that's usually where the prominent bass will be. A subwoofer does not play for a listening position naturally. It's the old far-corner rule. Your best bet is to change location or add a second sub. Try raising the volume of the subwoofer to get more sound at listening position. Make sure your level reading for the subwoofer is 5db or higher than the rest of your settings at mic position. BTW, I have a couple of large Velodynes and the loudest bass is at the far rear corners.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Also, your seat should be 38% from the back wall for the best bass.

Bill

would anyone characterize the Optimum 12 as a musical sub?

It's very musical. Just make sure it's the proper size for your room.
Curt 9928) 858-4430

It's very musical. Just make sure it's the proper size for your room.
Curt 9928) 858-4430

room is 15x22

If your ceiling is 8' and your room does not have permanent openings into another room or rooms then it will be fine.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi, I just purchased a new Impact 12 and need to verify if it normal to hear the speaker "Thump" when you just turn the unit on by itself. Is this normal for the Impact 12 or do i need to bring it back to the dealer? Thanks.

Hi,
Disconnect the input signal cable and unplug the power cord. Now plug the power cord in. It should not make a thump. If it only makes the thump when connected to your system, it is something in the system putting out a turn-on thump. I suggest you have your dealer check it with his receiver.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have an SPL-1200r that the electronics have started making funny sounds.

Under the extended warranty (great offering!) Velodyne has agreed to fix it. I was asked to remove the back-panel and send in the back panel with the electronics.

I removed all the phillips screws around the edge of the electronics but the panel did not come out. There are still many Allen-head screws in the back. How many of the Allen head screws need to be removed? Are there any other tricks to removing the back panel?

much thanks,

ski-KK
Seattle

You have removed the proper screws. Now use a small blade screwdriver around the edge to get it started to pull out. If this doesn't work for you, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Do not remove any additional screws or bolts.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

Great news, thanks. Thanks for the quick reply as well.

ski-KK

Bruce, I have a model 1500B Velodyne Subwoofer, about 18 years old with very little use...probably less than 100 hours. It's part of a surround sound system.

I turned it on recently and heard what sounded like someone breathing. I called customer service (extremely helpful) and was dismayed to hear that the condition I described was not possible to repair.

Can you explain in simple terms what is so exotic about this subwoofer that there's nothing that can be done to service it. I guess I think of these things in pretty simple terms e.g. a voice coil and an amp that drives them.

Does "servo actuated" mean there is something mechanical involved? And isn't there the possibility that something can be done to fix it? Is there something I can look at to at least confirm the diagnosis of your service department?

Thanks very much,

Steve

Hi Steve,
I'm sorry to say if Velodyne repair/service advised you the subwoofer could not be repaired, then it means the driver (woofer) is bad. We have not had drivers or driver parts for the F-series for years. The F-series were replaced by the HGS series, which in turn were replaced by the DD series. The HGS and DD driver technology is entirely different from the F-series and the newer drivers cannot be used in the older product. The drivers for the F-series were hand made and the servo feedback device glued to the voice coil. Unfortunately, no other driver will work correctly. When Velodyne can no longer service a servo subwoofer, normally a trade-in towards a current subwoofer is offered. Please feel free to call me direct if I can be of more help.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I currently have a VRP-1200, and have been happy enough with it, but want a bit more power..

a much more powerful (wattage) Optimum-8 has come on sale at a retailer near me, but I'm hesitating to get since i'm going from a 12" to a 8"..

I know the optimum is much more power, so I'm hoping it makes up for the loss in driver size...

any opinions?

The Optimum-8 is a very small subwoofer designed for a very small room. If you need more than your current subwoofer, I recommend you look at the DEQ-15R.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

I have two hgs 12 and 15 both have partialy working amps are ok servo ciurcuit is out
drviers and servo sensor is ok maybe sombody know some service thats is able to fix it or have schematics for those circuits ?? without it I am not able to get it right...
Darek daran59@wp.pl

Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They still service HGS units.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I own the Velodyne HGS-15.

I do have issues with uneven bass and was considering buying a second sub to help even the bass out (amongst other solutions).

I have read that it is best to get similiar/same subs when doing this. Is that correct? Please explain.

Would I have to buy a DD-15 or would a DD-12 be acceptable?

My room is not large 12' x 17.5' x 8'.

Frank,
It is much easier to set up two idenical (or close) subs in that their frequency response and output are the same. Of course you can use different ones, it's just easier when they speak with the same voice. It's much more problematic when you mix sealed box design with bass reflex design. The DD-15 would be an excellent choice to go with your HGS-15 in that it's driver and amp are similar and you can EQ the DD for the room with both subwoofers playing.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Anyone seen a black SPL-1000 still for sale anywhere from an auth dealer? I know it's been replaced by the Optimum line, but I want an SPL model for a couple of reasons. Even Demo or refurb stock would be ok. I know I could go used, but I'd rather not. Thanks in advance for any leads.

Jeff

rgbyhk
not authorized but i have bought from them with no problem units change frequently
http://www.audiophileliquidator.net

Want to say Thanx Much to the guys at velo repair, for the speedy work. The amp from my DD-18 was only there 3 days.....

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pass it on.
Curt (928) 858-4430

rgbyhk
not authorized but i have bought from them with no problem units change frequently
http://www.audiophileliquidator.net

Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately, they don't have any SPL units. I realize I may be out of luck here, but I figured I'd ask the community. Again, thanks for any leads.

Jeff

I could see going with a DD-10 if there was a good deal on a demo or refurb unit out there. :) If anyone knows of one, please let me know! Thanks.

Jeff

My room is 18x15 with 18ft cathedral ceiling. I ended up getting (2) DEQ-12R. Will this be fine?

Thanks
Chris

The measurements would call for two DEQ-15Rs.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

So you think I should change my order to (2) DEQ-15Rs?

Yes I do. That's my recommendation.
Curt (928) 858-4430

What if I end up moving my theater to the basement with 15x12x8. would (2) DEQ-15R be too much?

If the total basement or a sealed off area is that small and you are going to move there for sure, then I would go with the DEQ-12Rs. Most basements are larger than that.
Curt (928) 858-4430

My CHT-8 (2002) today decided to continuously sound like very distant thunder. Basically sounds like crackling static passed through the crossover. This happens with or without inputs connected, and the sub no longer goes into standby mode, instead playing its impression of a rainstorm non-stop. Is a model this old still likely to be repairable, or is there something I should check/reset/wave magic dust over?

Thanks for any input. :)

Hi,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can answer your questions regarding repairing your subwoofer. There is no reset.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi all,

I have bought a CHT-10R a few years ago and am very happy with it. I have just moved to Canada, and I have a question : is there a risk of damaging the unit if I use a 110v 220v converter, as it will operate on 60Hz instead of the 50hz it is designed for ?

Thanks !

Hi,
The converter operating at 60hz will not be a problem.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Well, disappointing to be told flatly that the only diagnosis available is to sell me a $190 amp board. I'm certainly happy to replace things as needed, but even living right near a service center the suggestion was just to throw cash at it instead of even opening the case. I guess it's time to shop around a bit.

Thanks anyway.

would you guys recommend the impact-mini or the impact-10 for a 10x20 living room? I listened to them both at fry's but because of size of the store they both sounded about the same and I've read great reviews on both. I mostly listen to rock and watch movies if it matters

Hi,
Of the two, go with the Impact-10. The Impact Mini is too small for your room and use.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

My Velodyne HGS 18 just started producing crackling/popping noises. I have had this sub since 2001 and it has been working flawlessly until now.

If I touch the cone (even a slight tap) I hear crackling/popping noises back amplified. Similar noises come out when a signal is fed into the sub.

Any suggestions or ideas? Could something inside have become loose/disconnected due to the vibrations? If I were to open the sub, what should I be looking for?

Ideally, I would like to find out what is wrong and ship the damaged part (the amp??) rather than the entire unit.

Your suggestions are welcome! Thanks!

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You will probably only need to return the amplifier which is easily removable.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

My HGS10 amp failed a few months ago but I didn't actually have it sent to Velodyne until a few weeks ago. Finally got a brand spankin new amp built on the 21st. I'll be giving it the real tests tomorrow with Up, District 9 and The Hurt Locker. Tonight the sub will be given a light workout with TV.

Hi,
Of the two, go with the Impact-10. The Impact Mini is too small for your room and use.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

thanks curt, easy answer

Hi Curt,

I purchased a SMS-1 about a year ago. I just now got a pro type rack and need the rack ears for the SMS-1. I looked in the box (I never throw anything away) and I couldn't find any. I'm not sure that it came with the SMS-1 I received. How do I get some so I can mount it in my new rack?

Thanks.

Hi,
Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt and team,

Great turnaround and great service.

My SPL-1200r amp/electronics was fixed under extended warranty. I received the repaired amp back on Friday of the same week I shipped it in for service!

Thanks for terrific service and standing by your great products!

Ski-KK
Seattle



I have an SPL-1200r that the electronics have started making funny sounds.

Under the extended warranty (great offering!) Velodyne has agreed to fix it. I was asked to remove the back-panel and send in the back panel with the electronics.

I removed all the phillips screws around the edge of the electronics but the panel did not come out. There are still many Allen-head screws in the back. How many of the Allen head screws need to be removed? Are there any other tricks to removing the back panel?

much thanks,

ski-KK
Seattle

Thanks for the feedback. I'll forward it to the repair group.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
On Monday, please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. You will probably only need to return the amplifier which is easily removable.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thank you Curt! Done!
Took the amp out and shipped it yesterday.
Thanks again!!

Hi to all

This is my first post here. I recently bought an impact 10 and was very happy and impressed with it. This forum was a big help to me after reading about using a y splitter cable for the impact series. I almost sent the unit back
because with only the left lfe connected the sound is very weak and thought that it was defective.

I listen to music and movies equally. For movies it is great. For music it is good but a bit lacking in presence. I have adjusted my receiver sub level to +4.
What would be an ideal level for the impact 10? Would 1 o'clock level be too much for the sub to add more presence in music listening? I'm afraid that going beyond 12 o'clock might damage it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
You need to keep the Impact sub's volume below 12 O'clock. I would consider 11 O'clock as a maximum. Raise the volume of the receiver's subwoofer channel some more to where you can get proper bass volume with the above sub recommended setting.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt. I can still put the receiver sub level to max and like you recommend to have the impact 10 level at 11 o'clock. My receiver also has a double bass function, might as well also play with it. Again thank you for the quick reply and help.

Hey there, my basement is 14 wide x 29 deep x 8.5 High, I also have a 11 x 11 nook starting at the 14 mark.

Will the DLS - 5000R be enuff for my media room? Note that I live in Canada, and would like to stay below the 1K mark.

thanks
S

In your price range, I recommend either the DLS-5000R or the DEQ-15R.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

In your price range, I recommend either the DLS-5000R or the DEQ-15R.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

What is the difference between the two subs?

Thanks
S

The new DEQ series adds auto room EQ, and a digital readout for volume and other DSP features. They both offer remote control. Performance is about the same for the DLS and DEQ.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Running two Impact Mini's and notice a slight popping noise when the auto circuits turn the subs off. This can be quite annoying while watching a movie. I have followed the recommended setup procedures and wondering if there is fix for this or is this coming from my receiver. Thanks for any recommendations.

Hi,
If you're talking about thumps when you turn the receiver off, then it is probably the receiver as the sub won't go off for several minutes later. If you are talking about the sub turning off during a movie with no bass signal, then make sure you are doing the following:
1) In the receiver, raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to almost maximum.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofers.
3) Keep the volume on both subs well below half way.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,
If you're talking about thumps when you turn the receiver off, then it is probably the receiver as the sub won't go off for several minutes later. If you are talking about the sub turning off during a movie with no bass signal, then make sure you are doing the following:
1) In the receiver, raise the volume for the subwoofer channel to almost maximum.
2) Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofers.
3) Keep the volume on both subs well below half way.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Yup, followed all your recommendations as far as setup, still hear a minor popping when they shut down ( no bass signal ) while watching a movie.
Thanks for your help Curt

For a 11' x 17' x 7' fully enclosed room which DD sub would you recommend?

What would be the difference between the DD-10 vs DD-12 vs DD-15 in a room of that size?

Thanks
Frank

Frank,
In general a larger subwoofer of the same design will provide more output and go deeper with power. The larger subwoofer will also have less distortion when playing loud. All of the DD's would work very well in your small room. My recommendation would be the DD-12 as a nice physical fit with plenty of reserve. If you want really deep bass (20hz and below) at loud levels then the DD-15 would be the choice.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hello thread ... anyone know where I might be able to obtain a manual (or a link with technical specs) for a 12 year old Velo VA-1512? Thanks.

Contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can supply a manual or a copy.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can supply a manual or a copy.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Done. Thank you very much!

Hello, my velodyne sub (va 1512) exhibits a buildup of a lot of "girgling"/static
noises and hums for about 30 seconds then fades to a low hum then eventually
makes no more noise after about another 30 seconds. This only happens after
it has been switched off after an extended period (such as moving to a new
house and been off for several days). It appears to work perfectly once it
has passed this "wake up" stage but it's gotten worse after the last year or
so. I'm afraid to switch it off again!

The noise only happens after it has been physically switched off for a period of time. Once it's plugged back in it rumbles, low at first then very loudly ... then slowly fades to a low hum after about 30 seconds. Then eventually perfect silence. When the sub resumes from standby there is no audible distortion at all. I'm only concerned because it started doing this about a year ago and the level of noise/distortion/driver movement from the unit is extreme and sounds like it could cause damage eventually.

Any ideas? Caps going bad?

Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I have the whole series of lsi including lsi 25, lsi 9, lis center, f/x. My sub is optimun 12 ( 2 pairs mix ) and my reciever is denon avr 5308 together with xpa 5.

My questions are: What should the crossover frequency settings be for all my speakers from my avr? Also, what should be the setting of my subs from my avr ?

I have a velodyne ct-120 in my family room which is 14'x18' that opens to my kitchen. Will this sub work or do I need a bigger sub.

Hi,
If the kitchen is small, it should do a good job.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

curt c,
The kitchen is 14'w x 16'L. I forgot also the kitchen opens out to the living room area.

You need one or two DEQ-15Rs. You could start with one and see how it performs. While the CT-120 will be better than nothing, it's much too small for your combined 6000 plus cubic feet.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt, I was wondering how velodyne tests their subs to get the specs that they post in their manuals. I just read a review from Sound and Vision again from Tom Nousaine about the DLS 5000r and wondered how the testing differs, Toms numbers seem to be alittle different. Also, he tested in a 7500 cu ft room and I wondered how different the test would be in a 2000 cu ft room. I have two 5000's in my room am just curious. Thanks Curt.

Hi,
We use a much smaller room, about 3000 cubic feet and measure at one meter to check the response of the subwoofer. In a large room like 7500 cubic feet there won't be as much bass at the lower frequencies. The DLS-5000R is designed to have very good bass down to 30hz in most installations. Smaller rooms and corner loading can extend the response lower by what is called RTF (room transfer function). This is however totally room dependant. Bass reflex designs like the DLS-5000R roll off more rapidly below their tuned (low) frequency than a sealed box design.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-440

can you help me out guys. i wanted to replace the driver of my beloved VELODYNE, MODEL F-1500-B. the driver is accidentally punctured and badly torn. where can i buy the replacement for this or better a new one...

Hi,
The driver was a hand made servo woofer and they have not been available for years. There is no replacement and no other woofer will work correctly. Velodyne service (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com, has a trade-in plan toward a current model, when older servo Velodyne's can no longer be repaired. Your best bet is to check with them.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

In 1988 I bought a ULD-15 sub. Over the years the controller has been serviced twice by Velodyne. Somewhere along the line the controller face plate morphed into a "ULD Series II" face plate. I am considering selling this rig. Does the "Series II" face plate in any way misrepresent this subwoofer system? (Please excuse the redundant posting of this message as a new thread)

Hi,
If the servo cable that runs between the amp and woofer is a 5-pin din cable, then you have a series I and that would misrepresent the subwoofer. If the cable is a 'rca' cable, then it is a series II.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I knew that my sub is a Series I. Other than the servo cable, are there any performance or design differences that would make I vs. II significant? Is there any possibility that I could swap my "Series II" face plate for the correct faceplate?

The main difference was additional protection circuitry added to the series II. On Monday please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com to see if they have an older series I front plate.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I trust you meant older series I front plate.

Yes I did.
Curt

I have some questions for optimun 12. What is meant by 'Automatic 7-band room equalizer' on your optimum 12. Will that mean that I have to place the supplied microphone in 7 differnt positions one at a time?

Also, on the first version of spl 1200, where will I set my spl's frequency crossover on my reciever? 80 hz or 120 hz? By the way I use subwoofer direct mode on my spl 1200.

Hi,
The 7-band auto EQ means there are seven different bands of equlization spread between 30hz and 100hz. Think of seven EQ bars staggered across the bass frequencies. What makes the Velodyne unique is that competitors normally offer one or two bands so the Optimum can do a far superior job of EQ'ng the room than other subs. Many subs don't offer any equalization at all. With the Optimum, you place the microphone at listening position and only need to do the auto-EQ once.
The crossover setting in your receiver is determined by the speakers you are using. In your case I would go with 80hz.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,
The 7-band auto EQ means there are seven different bands of equlization spread between 30hz and 100hz. Think of seven EQ bars staggered across the bass frequencies. What makes the Velodyne unique is that competitors normally offer one or two bands so the Optimum can do a far superior job of EQ'ng the room than other subs. Many subs don't offer any equalization at all. With the Optimum, you place the microphone at listening position and only need to do the auto-EQ once.
The crossover setting in your receiver is determined by the speakers you are using. In your case I would go with 80hz.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Thank you so much for your prompt reply to my question. YOU ARE REALLY GREAT!!!

I have 2 DD18s, and they are daisy chained. If I use Preset 6, for example, and I set the contour on sub 1 to 40 hz with a boost of 6 and the contour on sub 2 to 50 hz with a boost of 6, will the contour from sub 1 override the contour that's set on sub 2? I know things like volume and presets are sent to the other sub that's in the daisy chain. So, that's the reason why I'm wondering if the contour from sub 1 will be also transferred to sub 2.

Hi,
I'm not sure without trying it. I don't have a dual DD set up here. I don't think it will change the slave, just not sure. You could see on the TV (switch to the slave sub) if the contour changes.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

hi curt or anyone at veloydne
you mention going to a deq15 for those of us who cant afford the dd15-18
the only problem is these seem to be available only on line even my high end stores that carry the dd line don't carry the deq line is there a reason for this and there seems to be no way to addition this line are you guys going to make the deq more readily available
how about a little bit of marketing here if you please for some of us poorer individuals
thanks

Hi,
We would love to have the DEQ-15R more available. The dealer's decide what products they carry and most dealers do not stock large subwoofers because they say there is limited demand for them. Not many dealers stock the larger DD's either. If customers request the larger subs, then perhaps the dealers will stock them. Unfortunately in this economy dealers will only stock what there is a larger demand for. Any Velodyne dealer can order the DEQ-15R and some of the larger chains have it available on display but that is a limited part of the country.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt

do you have any dealers in oregon or washington carrying the deq line

thanks

Hi,
I will PM you the Velodyne representative for the Northwest. They will know what dealers carry the DEQ line.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Curt,

I have a Deco 8 sub and it says Minivee on the back of it with no indication of how much power it uses. A friend of mine has a Deco 8 sub and it says Deco on the back of it and it also indicates that the wattage is 600. Is there a difference between our deco units? I know that the Minivee is rated 1000W and wanted to know if my unit is rated 600W or 1000W. Alan

Hi Curt

Like to know how well the SMS-1 can be integrated with my SPL1500R, my brother has sold off his HGS18MKII so I may be able to get his SMS-1 for next to nothing.
Because I’m currently using the crossover from the 1500 for my Dynaudio Special 25s I could greatly reduce the cable runs (16FT total) from my Bryston BP25 to the 1500 and back to the Bryston 4BSST by stacking the SMS-1 with my components.
Would the internal equalizer of the SPL1500R once reset interfere with optimum utilization of the SMS-1.

Hi,
The SMS-1 will work very well with your SPL-1500R. The 'reset' EQ in the sub will have no effect on the SMS-1.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks Curt

Excellent, I thought of getting the DD15, but I'm happy with the SPL1500R and having the SMS-1 stacked with the BP25 is a bonus.

Hi,
The SMS-1 will work very well with your SPL-1500R. The 'reset' EQ in the sub will have no effect on the SMS-1.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

As there is no way of totally by passing the 1500's EQ even though set flat I just wanted to be sure.

Hi,
When you do a system reset, the digital EQ is bypassed on preset #3. So if you want presets, you would use the presets on the SMS-1, leaving the SPL-R on preset #3 all the time.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

I've a DF10-sq which is no longer working as it needs to be re-coned. I'm desperate to have this truly marvelous sub functioning again. I've had no luck in finding someone that can repair it.

Desperate in Temecula!

I've a DF10-sq which is no longer working as it needs to be re-coned. I'm desperate to have this truly marvelous sub functioning again. I've had no luck in finding someone that can repair it.

Desperate in Temecula!

If you don't mind shipping (you can just send the driver);
http://speakerex.com/
they have a toll free number. Call 'em, they do excellent work.

I see from their website that they don't list velodyne as one of their supported brands.

Do you have explicit knowledge that they do Velodyne repairs there?

This transducer is a little old but still highly coveted in the car audio world as the only servo controlled sub ever produced specifically for use in autos.

I hope that someone in this forum can help.

Hi,
Velodyne does not work on drivers. One of the best speaker repair companies is: Orange County Speaker Co. 1-800-897-8373. They have worked on many Velodyne servo drivers in the past.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt,

I'm just setting up the SMS-1 to the SPL1500 but when resetting the 1500 12344321 I'm not getting the 3 blinks as indicated in the manual, anything I'm missing.

Hi,
Not sure. I've never tried the SPL-1500R. The SPL-R's that I did use/test did blink three times as I recall. Does it blink as it's receiving the commands? Have you ever tried a reset before? If so, did it blink three times then?
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

I'm just setting up the SMS-1 to the SPL1500 but when resetting the 1500 12344321 I'm not getting the 3 blinks as indicated in the manual, anything I'm missing.

Got it, found the best way to verify is just to put the volume at an odd setting, 2.7 or similar do a reset and make sure it is back to 3.

Good troubleshooting.
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi Curt,
Do you know if DLS-5000R's will be replaced soon with a newer model ?

I am trying to add another sub to my existing 5000R and wanted to see if these will be retired soon.

Thanks!

Hi,
The DLS-R series are scheduled for replacement sometime in the fall.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi,

I just bought a Velodyne CHT-10Q here in Singapore. And I have a couple of questions.

I am using Mission bookshelfs, and here're the specs.

Front: Mission m60i (60Hz - 20kHz) (bi-amped)
Centre: Mission m6ci (65Hz - 20kHz)
Rear: Mission mh3s (110Hz - 20kHz)
Amp: Onkyo 606

Here're the crossover settings I set in the 606.

Front: 80Hz
Centre: 80Hz
Rear: 120Hz
LFE: 120Hz

And I've been told to just leave the crossover to the amp, and not set the crossover on the sub.
If so, how do I disable the crossover on the sub?

Also, there had been instances where my sub will auto adjust the volume, if this supposed to happen?
Since the default volume on the sub is 30, should I leave it as it is when using Audyssey? Because I tried it, and Audyssey set my sub volume to -12db. I was told the optimum volume should be around -3db on the amp? In this case, should I lower the volume on the sub and run Audyssey again?



Thanks alot

Hi, I picked up a floor demo DD-15 this past weekend from a local dealer. I was told it carried the full factory warranty, but I'm kind of skeptical. Can you confirm if it's really covered?

I'm also kind of curious as to why they were selling the demo for $1200 off their supposed normal price. Their answer was because few people come in to look at subs at that price point, so they're clearing them out. Will the DD-15 become extinct soon and if so, is the replacement significantly better? I'm happy with what I've hard so far from the DD-15, but if there's something coming out soon that's a significant upgrade over the DD-15, I might consider returning it and waiting for the replacement.

fs9019
Yes the crossovers should be set in the receiver. Your crossover choices are fine. To bypass the sub's crossover put the crossover knob to 'direct'. When running Audyssey put the sub's volume at '15'.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Hi, I picked up a floor demo DD-15 this past weekend from a local dealer. I was told it carried the full factory warranty, but I'm kind of skeptical. Can you confirm if it's really covered?

I'm also kind of curious as to why they were selling the demo for $1200 off their supposed normal price. Their answer was because few people come in to look at subs at that price point, so they're clearing them out. Will the DD-15 become extinct soon and if so, is the replacement significantly better? I'm happy with what I've hard so far from the DD-15, but if there's something coming out soon that's a significant upgrade over the DD-15, I might consider returning it and waiting for the replacement.


Hi,
If the purchase was from an authorized Velodyne dealer, there is a warranty. The discount was apparently because the sub was a demo. The DD series will be replaced later this year and yes the new model will be a significant upgrade.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curt c,

I have a pair of Def Tech's BP2006 and a C/L/R 2300, each of them containing a powered woofer, which creates plenty of punch, except they all fall off pretty fast below 40 Hz. I'd like to extend that down another octave using a DEC-12R in a 2500 cft room. Is this thinking correct and should the DEC-12 crossover be set to 40 Hz in this situation?

Hi,
I assume you mean a DEQ-12R. If you really want another octave (flat with amplitude to 20hz), I would recommend a DD-15. I assume the woofers in your speakers are relatively small so a DEQ-12R or a DEQ-15R will certainly provide much deeper bass down into the twenties if there are no permanent openings into other rooms. You would set the sub's crossover to blend with the speakers, probably in the 40-50hz area.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks for the reply. Yes, my bad, I am referring to the DEQ-12R. I do not have permanent openings into other rooms.

Hi,
I assume you mean a DEQ-12R. If you really want another octave (flat with amplitude to 20hz), I would recommend a DD-15. I assume the woofers in your speakers are relatively small so a DEQ-12R or a DEQ-15R will certainly provide much deeper bass down into the twenties if there are no permanent openings into other rooms. You would set the sub's crossover to blend with the speakers, probably in the 40-50hz area.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

First of all thanks for the great thread.

This is probably a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway.

I just bought a DEQ-8R for use in my small condo. I think it's a great sub for places where space is an issue and I've been happy with it.

When I installed it I of course ran the room eq calibration routine to integrate it into my space. Yesterday before leaving for work I turned the power switch on the back to off for some reason that I can't really remember. :)

When I turned it back on that evening I noticed that the volume has reset to the default value of 30. This had me wondering if the room eq settings also reset themselves. Is this the case?

Hi,
The EQ will remain in memory, so there is no need to rerun it.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Thanks!

I have an ailing M&K MX-200 subwoofer that may not be repairable. So I'm in the market for a new sub possibly. What I loved about the M&K is that is was capable of going very low (~15 Hz) when I needed it, and all the bass was tight and clean.

Requirements: I care more about good reproduction in music than impressing the neighbors with loud volume at low freq. I have a high end audio system with Dynaudio Contour mains and I need a sub that doesn't compromise the sound quality ... as it will be responsible for everything below 80 Hz. Listening is classical, new age, classic rock, some jazz. Not super heavy bass requirements, but yes, some organ music that I want to play cleanly. I do watch movies now and then and I do like my exploding buildings to sound like exploding buildings, too.

Room is very open and irregular on 2 sides, but overall dims are about 20' x 20' x 8'.

I have considered the other popular recommendations around here, but at this point I am leaning toward Velodyne, likely the Optimum 10. I don't want a huge sub, but I don't have to have a tiny one either.

So one important factor in deciding for me is, where are Velodynes made?

Will the Optimum 10 give me the low clean bass I want?

Thanks for any info you can provide!