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curt c
03-12-10, 11:12 AM
Hi,
You have at least 3200 cubic feet, so no the Optimum-10 is not a good choice. For your room size, and listening taste I recommended the DD-15 or DD-18.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

greenluke
03-15-10, 05:01 AM
hi curt!
as a recent owner of a velo impact mini, i'm finding some problems in configuring it through the audyssey function of my denon 1508.
Specifically, at low volume level, say -35db, the sub doesn't works at all, as the light is fixed red. I tried doin' several calibration setting volume level between half and 3/quarter and crossover at 80hz, while the amp sets his own crossover at 40 hz.
What should I try to make it works properly? Thanks a lot for your help!

curt c
03-15-10, 09:55 AM
Hi,
Use a 'Y' splitter into both subwoofer inputs. Set the sub's volume very low (9 O'clock) and the sub's crossover at 'direct', then run the receiver's auto set-up.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

greenluke
03-15-10, 10:04 AM
already using the Y splitter, will try the low volume.
what do you mean by setting sub's crossover at "direct".
thanks for your help.

curt c
03-15-10, 10:11 AM
Hi,
Set the sub's crossover to the highest number (200 as I recall) which is also direct. Direct means we bypass the sub's crossover. I sent you a PM with additional info. The crossover should be set in the receiver. I'm back in the office tomorrow.
Curt (928) 858-4430

greenluke
03-16-10, 09:45 AM
hi curt!
followed your precious advices, here are the results.
The receiver has now perfectly decteted the correct distance from the hearing point (while before it was calculated as double), has setted his own crossover at 40hz (is that correct?or should I fix it differently?), has setted sub's volume at +8db. Sub's is now very sensitive to signal, as I tried to set general volume at about -40db, just to see how it could manage the signal, and seeing it exiting from standby mode. So the auto on/off problem seems finally got over.
Then I tried to raise sub's own volume from the 9 o'clock position used for calibration, to 11, as to my ear sub was really low. Good result again, even if I think I'll have to try again with other levels to find the best setting.
Now I've got 2 other question for you.
- On the receiver there's the possibility to select low range signal to be reproduced by the sub; LFE(Normal): play low range and LFE signal of channel set to "Small" , and LFE+MAIN: play low range and LFE signal of all channel. Now I've set it at LFE(Normal). Is it correct, considering that my fronts and center are set as large and my surround as small?
- Speakinf of the sub's volume, why have you told me "make sure it is below half way at all times"? Isn't reccommended to push it more than that? Also, you say "the Impact Mini is designed for a very small shut-off (no permanaent openings into other rooms) room".....haven't understood completely this point, can you explain it in other words?
Feel free of answering me by pm, in the case.
Thanks a lot for your patience and for any further help !!!!

curt c
03-16-10, 06:42 PM
Hi,
I recommend you call all your speakers 'small'. And yes +8 is about right for the level of the subwoofer channel in the receiver. You need to also use a 'Y' splitter into both of the subwoofer's input jacks. The Impact Mini is a small 6 1/2" woofer and as such should only be used in very small rooms. If there is an opening into another room, that is where the lower bass (long wave lengths) will go. The Impact series need plenty of input and their volume should always be less than half way. That's the design of the Impact amplifier. I really recommend if possible, you call me direct.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Vidmaven
03-18-10, 02:22 PM
So I have a couple of questions; earlier this week I had a pipe burst in the basement ceiling right over the family room entertainment system. The subwoofer for this system (Velodyne F-1500r) ended up with about a half inch of water on top of it by the time I got to it and water running down all sides. So.......
1) How long should I wait before I plug it in to see if it works?
2) If the amp is fried can I get a replacement amp or do I have to replace the sub?
3) If the driver got wet, which is a possibility, is it a goner?
My home insurance carries a full replacement rider so I can get whatever would be considered comparable at the present time.

curt c
03-18-10, 02:46 PM
Hi,
1) I would wait until it appears to be totally dry.
2) The amplifier can be repaired.
3) There are no drivers or driver parts. If the driver is bad, it's a goner.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Vidmaven
03-18-10, 02:49 PM
Hi,
1) I would wait until it appears to be totally dry.
2) The amplifier can be repaired.
3) There are no drivers or driver parts. If the driver is bad, it's a goner.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.comThanks Curt. How much would it cost to repair the amp?

curt c
03-18-10, 03:00 PM
Hi,
You will need to contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. I am not in that department or at that location.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Vidmaven
03-18-10, 03:05 PM
Hi,
You will need to contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. I am not in that department or at that location.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430OK thanks.

redeye_091776
03-21-10, 07:01 PM
I picked up a SMS-1 from an auth internet dealer a few months ago... I just tried it out for the first time yesterday, and it appears that the mic might be dead. Everything's cabled correctly- even tried the mic on both the front and rear inputs... nothing on the graph (even at near half volume on my receiver, where it was loud enough to feel it in the floor). Any ideas? Has anyone else heard of this?

Searched the web for similar problems, haven't read anything about defective mics on these units... just my bad luck I guess. (also ran a continuity test on the cable... seems to be fine)

Thanks for the help,
Mike

curt c
03-21-10, 07:16 PM
Hi,
If everything is hooked up correctly, then either the mic or mic cable could be defective. Tomorrow please contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

redeye_091776
03-21-10, 08:26 PM
Thanks, Curt... will give them a call tomorrow. Have this mated to a HGS-15 Series II sub by the way... can't wait to hear the SMS-1 in action. (also- does Velodyne still make the MIC-5 kit for the SMS-1?)

curt c
03-21-10, 08:34 PM
Hi,
When you call tomorrow ask about the 'MIC-5' kit. I'm not sure if there are any more or not.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

artex4special
03-22-10, 09:31 AM
what is the difference between current sensing servo on the cht-15 and the servo on the hgs-12x?

DNO&B
03-22-10, 10:43 AM
Good morning.
I am the head of the sound department at the Norwegian National Opera & Ballet.
We have some DD18 in different studioes all of which now has got a distorted sound. Exactly his has happened to one of the subs before and it was the amplifier module which had to be changed.
Neby Hi-Fi Concept which is the norwegian distributor has ordered new amplifier modules, but the expected delivery time was another 6-8 weeks. We have already waited 3 weeks. Last time this happened we waited one year for the part to arrive!
Is it a known problem with the amplifier module? Is it something which can be repaired instead of replacing the whole module?


Best regards,
Nicolai Ekeberg

curt c
03-22-10, 11:21 AM
Hi,
There's normally no issue with the DD-18 amp unless it is being pushed too hard. The units need adequate input and the volume on the DD's should be at default or preferably less. A DD-18 will work well up to 3000-4000 cubic feet. I cannot answer your question regarding the amplifiers or replacement time interval. I will PM you contact information for those answers.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

whmacs
03-22-10, 09:19 PM
Hi All,
I've just picked up a SMS-1 to replace my BFD used to EQ my two subs.
I understand that I will use preset 5 to manually eq the subs using the sliders. My question is do I auto eq presets 1-4 (using preset setup) or do you manually go through and eq each one in turn (or not eq at all)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Stephen

curt c
03-22-10, 09:42 PM
Hi,
Normally you would do a manual EQ in the Preset: 'setup' mode. This will EQ globally for presets #1 thru #5. If you want different EQ's per preset, then change 'setup' to the desired preset number using the cursor. You can if desired, have a different EQ per preset.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

whmacs
03-22-10, 11:26 PM
Thanks Curt for clearing this up for me. I appreciate the fast response.

Regards,
Stephen

Dave_6
03-24-10, 11:51 PM
Well it may have finally died on me :( I came home from work today and noticed the blue light above the 'Night Mode' button was flashing. Turned the switch off (I usually just leave it in standby mode) and back on and it was still doing it. I then put in a Blu-ray to see if it was working and there is no sound coming out of it. Any ideas?

curt c
03-25-10, 12:31 AM
Dave,
Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

HeffeMusic
03-25-10, 03:10 PM
The Optimum-8 is a very small subwoofer designed for a very small room. If you need more than your current subwoofer, I recommend you look at the DEQ-15R.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hello,
When you say small room, how small are you talking about. I live in a Apt. in NYC and My listening space is 18 L by 14 W. I am currentyl using a HSU STF-1 and it has plenty of power. I am looking for a better quality Sub, and was thinking that the Otimum 8 would be a good choice?

curt c
03-25-10, 05:52 PM
Hi,
Unlike a speaker, a subwoofer cannot play for an area so one has to consider the whole open area the long wavelengths (bass notes) can travel to. I would look at the Optimum 10 or 12 at a minimum. Perhaps your local dealer will allow you to try out the subwoofer you prefer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

curttard
03-25-10, 09:55 PM
A friend gave me a Velodyne HGS10BG that he removed from a home install, its owner complaining that after awhile it would start crackling, no relation to the program material and in fact even with nothing plugged into it. My friend gave it to me and said maybe I could fix it.

Any ideas? At first it worked great and I thought maybe the problem was with the other guy's setup or something, but sure enough, after awhile it started doing it. The noise is entirely unaffected by any of the knobs or switches, or even whether a source is plugged in or not.

edit: There was another post in this thread with the same issue:
I have a Velodyne F1800R II in a home theater. I understand that it has the model's next generation amp in it (FSR18) SN: 57317019 Mfg: 11/97

They have started making a crackling noise even with all the line leverl audio cables unplugged. It often does it when first turned on with or without an audio feed. Turning any and all adjustment knobs has no effect.

Jarring the unit gets rid of it for a few hours or a day, and then it works perfectly.

It sounds excactly like the sound of many firecrackers being exploded a block away. It gets louder slowly, until I turn the unit off, and then it takes about 2 or 3 seconds for it to diminish.

No responses to him, though.

curt c
03-25-10, 10:05 PM
The amplifier will need repair and updating. Tomorrow, please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

dallaire
03-26-10, 12:34 AM
Hello, just found this forum in the list, this sounds like the right place. My Velodyne sub, ten years old started malfunctioning. It has a two hundred fifty watt plate amp, twelve inch woffer and fifteen inch passive. No servo system on this one. When I plug it in and power it up with or without a signal it goes wild in volume and sounds like a sixty hz pure test tone if I had to guess. I have to pull the plug or it will self destruct !!! I removed and checked the plate amp and did a visiual, no burn marks on anything ??? I do own a DMM and O-scope but dont know what to check. This just started out of the blue... any help would be great !
Thanks,
Vince

the sub is the "VA" series, model VA1512 manufacture date December 22 1997. Not opposed to removing components for testing

curt c
03-26-10, 09:02 AM
Hi,
I'm sorry but this 'Velodyne Support Thread' is not set up for repair issues. Please contact Velodyne repair/service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Your amplifier will need service. You will only need to send in the plate amplifier.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

Dave_6
03-27-10, 04:14 PM
Well it may have finally died on me :( I came home from work today and noticed the blue light above the 'Night Mode' button was flashing. Turned the switch off (I usually just leave it in standby mode) and back on and it was still doing it. I then put in a Blu-ray to see if it was working and there is no sound coming out of it. Any ideas?

For whatever reason it seems to be working again, for now atleast. Both lights are on and that one light is no longer flashing. I had to turn the volume on it up quite a bit along with the output in the receiver itself. Is there something that could have happened that made it reset and that's what happened? It still doesn't seem to have quite the output that it had before though.

I haven't called yet but I'm still going to sometime Monday.

curt c
03-27-10, 07:10 PM
Hi,
The guys in Velodyne service will hopefully have an answer.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

robgagnon
03-29-10, 01:44 PM
Hi Curt,

I have an old CT-100 that's been great up until a couple days ago when a flicked the breaker that it was plugged into and now I'm getting a loud hum (not just a regular 60Hz hum). The volume control doesn't change it, as soon as it's powered on, I get the regular hum (60 Hz) plus now a louder bass sound coming from the speaker itself. I know it's off warranty, but I love this thing, so I'd like to fix it. I opened up the back and took some voltage readings at various points in the circuit (85.7V phase to phase on the transformer). Everything seems to test ok. The only components that look a bit out are a couple of big caps (63V, 4700uF) on the powersupply board (read somewhere that these sometimes cause problems). They're a bit bulged on the top. I tested continuity on them, and they're not shorted or opened...resistance climbs slowly.

Any thoughts or options?

dondino
03-29-10, 02:10 PM
Hello, just found this forum in the list, this sounds like the right place. My Velodyne sub, ten years old started malfunctioning. It has a two hundred fifty watt plate amp, twelve inch woffer and fifteen inch passive. No servo system on this one. When I plug it in and power it up with or without a signal it goes wild in volume and sounds like a sixty hz pure test tone if I had to guess. I have to pull the plug or it will self destruct !!! I removed and checked the plate amp and did a visiual, no burn marks on anything ??? I do own a DMM and O-scope but dont know what to check. This just started out of the blue... any help would be great !
Thanks,
Vince

the sub is the "VA" series, model VA1512 manufacture date December 22 1997. Not opposed to removing components for testing

Wow, this is exactly what happened to me, same model sub and everything. Check your PM.

curt c
03-29-10, 02:23 PM
Robgagnon,
I'm sorry this Velodyne Support thread is not set up to handle repair issues. If you need Velodyne repair/service please contact: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodynecom. They can still service your amplifier as needed.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

robgagnon
03-29-10, 02:43 PM
Thanks Curt,
I sent them an email already.
Cheers.
Rob.

MACCA350
03-29-10, 11:06 PM
Hey Curt,
Is it possible for a firmware update on the DD series to have the 'THRU' output apply EQ to the signal? And possibly have an option in the menu to engage this or leave it as a copy of the input?
Is there a hardware limitation to doing this?

The reason I ask is it would aid setting up daisy chained subs for those who wish to EQ multiple DD's as one.

cheers

curt c
03-30-10, 08:47 AM
Hi,
At this time there are no updates planned for the DD series. I will forward your request.
Thanks,
Curt 9928) 858-4430

MACCA350
03-30-10, 08:58 AM
Thanks Curt, please forward any response.
Are you aware of any hardware limitation to this?

cheers

curt c
03-30-10, 09:06 AM
Hi,
I have forwarded your request to our software engineer and will let you know the response.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

MACCA350
03-30-10, 09:09 AM
Thanks Curt, appreciate it:D

cheers

transco
03-30-10, 10:12 AM
First, does anyone know if that is a valid model number? The label is faded and I'm pretty much guessing at parts of it. I looked through the discontinued sub's on the Velodyne web site, but no mention of this model.

As to my problem, when I crank the volume control on the sub it goes from no output at all, to full blast with nothing in between. The point where this happens varies with the amp's volume setting. In the 'full blast' mode, the sub alternately rumbles and goes silent. Fortunately, I can tame the rumbling somewhat by doing a reset followed by volume adjust on the remote. Anyone had a problem like this? Have you found an optimum setting of the sub's volume control when using the remote? Unfortunately I can't find the manual, so am working blind.

curt c
03-30-10, 11:45 AM
Hi,
It appears you have a F-15. If it has a marble effect on the front bottom, then that is some version of the F-15 series. If it has a remote control then it is a FSR-15. The ideal volume setting for this sub would be in the 9-10 o'clock range, never high. It appears your amplifier may need work. Velodyne repair/service is: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430

RickyL
03-31-10, 03:35 AM
Hi, curt,

Because of extending my screen to maximizing the screen area, my velo HGS18 has been placed with its side on floor ( see photo). Would this placement damage the subwoofer structure or internal power amp/woofer unit?

Regards,
Rickyl

curt c
03-31-10, 07:51 AM
Hi,
There should be no problem having the HGS on it's side.
Thanks,
Curt

richmond5
03-31-10, 04:26 PM
Need a remote control for DD-12. Will an aftermarket remote works or it does to be Velodyne? Thanks!


Alex

curt c
03-31-10, 04:57 PM
Hi,
You will need the Velodyne remote. Please contact Velodyne parts at: (408) 465-2800, ext. 3824 or valvarez@velodyne.com.
Thanks,
Curt

curt c
03-31-10, 05:38 PM
ANNOUNCEMENT

The time has arrived when I must announce my retirement. After nearly sixty years in audio and sixteen years with Velodyne, the time has come to step down and pursue the things I have dreamed about doing before I run out of time.
I want to thank all of you involved on this 'Official Velodyne Support Thread' for your questions and interest.
For the past eight years I have been the Velodyne employee answering and replying on this forum thread. It has been a priviledge and honor to do so. The reason that I worked for Velodyne for so long, was due the company's pursuit to build the very best subwoofers in the world. I urge all of you to continue to support and purchase Velodyne subwoofers and products. I have most enjoyed my time at Velodyne and will miss the daily contact with my friends and cohorts there.
In the future when you need an 'Official Velodyne' answer, please contact: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. This is my last 'Official' post.
Once again thanks for the past eight years.
Take Care,
Curt Chisholm

BrystonFan
03-31-10, 07:59 PM
Best of luck to you Curt.
A big thank you for ALL of your support over the years.

Happy DD12 owner.
Tony

MACCA350
03-31-10, 08:37 PM
Thanks for the years of contribution to the forum Curt, it's been great having you here to answer questions and help Velodyne customers with advice and support. Your prompt and valuable input will be missed:(

I hope your retirement is relaxing and enjoyable and good luck for the coming years:D


For those interested in my last question:Is it possible for a firmware update on the DD series to have the 'THRU' output apply EQ to the signal? And possibly have an option in the menu to engage this or leave it as a copy of the input?
Is there a hardware limitation to doing this?

The reason I ask is it would aid setting up daisy chained subs for those who wish to EQ multiple DD's as one.
We discussed it through PM and the result is basically that: the “thru” output jacks are hard-wired to the “input” jacks"So it is not possible to apply such a change in software as there is a hardware limitation to do such on current DD series models.

Once again, thanks for your effort over the years Curt:cool:

cheers

mpsan
03-31-10, 09:49 PM
Hello ALL:
My son has a Velodyne F-1500 R-B. About 10 seconds after it is plugged in there is a loud POP. If he hooks up anything, there is a 60HZ hum with no other audio. The 15" driver is perfect so I wonder if there is a way to fix the AMP? Can I get a schematic anywhere? I would think the speaker should be worth something but is there a way the AMP can be fixed?

TIA

arvban
04-01-10, 04:44 AM
I am looking for a sub for a room size of 16*12*9. My front speakers are B&W 683 and receiver is Denon 4310. Which sub would you recommend? I was looking at DEQ-12R or MiniVee 8 inch. Do you think these are the best choices? Which one would you recommend between the two? Any other model you will recommend?

rob80b
04-01-10, 10:21 AM
ANNOUNCEMENT

The time has arrived when I must announce my retirement. After nearly sixty years in audio and sixteen years with Velodyne, the time has come to step down and pursue the things I have dreamed about doing before I run out of time.
I want to thank all of you involved on this 'Official Velodyne Support Thread' for your questions and interest.
For the past eight years I have been the Velodyne employee answering and replying on this forum thread. It has been a priviledge and honor to do so. The reason that I worked for Velodyne for so long, was due the company's pursuit to build the very best subwoofers in the world. I urge all of you to continue to support and purchase Velodyne subwoofers and products. I have most enjoyed my time at Velodyne and will miss the daily contact with my friends and cohorts there.
In the future when you need an 'Official Velodyne' answer, please contact: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. This is my last 'Official' post.
Once again thanks for the past eight years.
Take Care,
Curt Chisholm

Hi Curt

If this were posted today (April Fools) we’d say Ya Right.
So if it’s legit all the best, I must say I’ve always been impressed by your timely replies and I see you’ve got me by a few years in this hobby.

sofast1
04-01-10, 06:18 PM
Thank you Curt,best wishes and good luck!!

sofast1
04-01-10, 06:25 PM
I am looking for a sub for a room size of 16*12*9. My front speakers are B&W 683 and receiver is Denon 4310. Which sub would you recommend? I was looking at DEQ-12R or MiniVee 8 inch. Do you think these are the best choices? Which one would you recommend between the two? Any other model you will recommend?

Go to http://www.velodyne.com/wproduct/whproduct_new.aspx?sid=995n731k Be sure to include any rooms that your listening area opens into(if your room opens into a kitchen or dining room, you must include that area). I use a Deq-15r with my 683's and it sounds great!:D

kucharsk
04-02-10, 05:19 AM
Thanks, Curt!

I hope the powers that be know you and this thread are why, when I needed to replace my F-1500 two years ago, I bought a DD-18 rather than a JL Audio f112, a decision I'm thrilled about every time I watch a movie.

Best of luck in your retirement - you deserve it.

deepstang
04-02-10, 11:50 AM
Curt, thank you for your dedication to all of us here and to all the other Velodyne customers. I still remember shooting you an email one snowy Sunday morning and was shocked to have a response within 10 minutes. By your example, you have motivated me to step up my game and help others when I can. You will greatly be missed and always be respected.

-Pradeep

APHD
04-02-10, 04:19 PM
I have a old CT150 that will not power up . The led light does not light up. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and still no power. The on/off switch is getting power. I sent an email to velodyne about a week ago but have heard nothing. Is their anything else I might check?

@@@@@
04-02-10, 04:57 PM
I have one pair of optimun 12 connected to my avr 5308. I just want to know if I can plug them in to any ordinary surge protector without compromising the sound quality? Or It has to be drectly connected to wall outlet.

sofast1
04-02-10, 05:54 PM
I have a old CT150 that will not power up . The led light does not light up. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and still no power. The on/off switch is getting power. I sent an email to velodyne about a week ago but have heard nothing. Is their anything else I might check?

when you need an 'Official Velodyne' answer, please contact: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.

sofast1
04-02-10, 06:05 PM
I have one pair of optimun 12 connected to my avr 5308. I just want to know if I can plug them in to any ordinary surge protector without compromising the sound quality? Or It has to be drectly connected to wall outlet.

You can plug them into an ordinary surge protector or directly into the wall. It would be better to plug them into outlets that are on seperate circuit breakers, if possible. The ideal solution would be to plug them(and your other electronics) into a surge supression/noise filtration/line conditioner. I reccomend Panamax products(fantastic warranty!) and I've heard a lot of good things about APC, but there are other excellent ones out there also. This type of product would be a wise investment that could save you $ and headaches down the road.:cool:

DaGamePimp
04-02-10, 07:01 PM
Best Wishes Curt, you will be missed, enjoy whatever adventure you embark upon next.

Take Care,
Jason

CT_Wiebe
04-03-10, 03:44 AM
Hello ALL:
My son has a Velodyne F-1500 R-B. About 10 seconds after it is plugged in there is a loud POP. If he hooks up anything, there is a 60HZ hum with no other audio. The 15" driver is perfect so I wonder if there is a way to fix the AMP? Can I get a schematic anywhere? I would think the speaker should be worth something but is there a way the AMP can be fixed?

TIAAs Curt has said, repeatedly, the amp can be fixed. You have to contact Velodyne service at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. Their product service and support is second to none.

curt c -- I hope you enjoy your retirement as much as I have been enjoying mine. I second Jason's "Best Wishes", you will certainly be missed.

I hope Velodyne can find another person to continue providing support to this thread.

richmond5
04-05-10, 09:21 AM
Just acquired DD-12, any suggestions on where to put the mic for ideal EQ calibration? Thanks in advance.

Alex

sofast1
04-05-10, 10:15 AM
Just acquired DD-12, any suggestions on where to put the mic for ideal EQ calibration? Thanks in advance.

Alex

Place the mic where you would normally sit.

jehanzeb
04-06-10, 12:47 PM
ANNOUNCEMENT
The time has arrived when I must announce my retirement.
Curt Chisholm

Thanks, Mr Chisholm for your support!
Wishing you the best in your retirement.

bfm
04-08-10, 09:03 PM
Thanks for all your time and effort Curt! Just bought a used hgs-12 and it is amazing. Velodyne must be a great co. to have had a chap such as yourself working there for so long. All the best.
B
Wow. 219 pages of posts, and almost 7 years on AVS. You will be missed!

cargen
04-09-10, 07:15 AM
Curt,

I've followed this thread since 2004 when I purchased my two DD-15's. Have always been amazed at the completeness of your responses to all and their speed, sometimes even on weekends.

Thanks for your service and I wish you all the best!

Chris

Chris_W
04-10-10, 06:04 AM
Hi Curt,
it is a long time since I first (and last) posted in this forum, however, I will never forget the friendly and expert advice you gave me when I purchased my DD18. I don't know anybody working as technical support who is so much concerned about the customers wishes and interests as you have always been. Many thanks again and hopefully you will be able to enjoy your retirement for many years to come.

Best wishes and goodbye,

Christian W. from Germany

Selvos
04-10-10, 04:07 PM
Hi I'm new to Velodyne and I am pretty overwhelmed at the product options.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I'm looking at a 10 or 12" under $500. Mostly for movies, games but some use on music.

sofast1
04-11-10, 07:39 PM
Hi I'm new to Velodyne and I am pretty overwhelmed at the product options.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I'm looking at a 10 or 12" under $500. Mostly for movies, games but some use on music.

First you have to determine which subs would be appropriate. Go to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=18464279 and be sure to include any rooms that your listening area opens into. The DLS series(DLS-3750r,DLS-4000r) offer a lot of "bang for the buck" and might be your best bet, but you have to use the selection wizard first to see which one is appropriate for your listening area. The DEQ series offer similar performance with a better display and a few other nice features. Once you've determined which one is right for you, shop around. There are several on-line dealers who discount the subs, but be sure it's an authorized dealer. When you've found the best price,then go to your local dealer and see if they'll match it. Happy hunting!:cool:

greygoos2004
04-15-10, 04:36 PM
I recently upgraded my receiver to prepro/amp setup. I hooked up my Integra DHC 80.1 to my 7.1 system. The .1 is the Velodyne DD-12 sub woofer.

The Integra comes with Audyssey MultiEQ room correction and setup.

I ran the Audyssey today and noticed something strange. My FL, FC and FR showed up as 12 ft away from listening position. My subwoofer, on the other hand (Velodyne DD12) showed up as being 24 ft. away from the listening position. Not sure why that would be the case. The subwoofer is actually sitting right between the FL and FR speakers.

Is there any setting that I need to turn on or off either in the 80.1 or DD-12 ?:confused:

Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

chashint
04-15-10, 08:09 PM
Will Velodyne keep a presence on this forum ?

sofast1
04-16-10, 11:59 PM
Will Velodyne keep a presence on this forum ?

Doesn't seem to now, but as Jack Ingram said, "we're all in this together".:cool:

stanjk3
04-17-10, 03:06 AM
Can't decide which to get, both get good reviews from what I've read.
I have a townhouse, living room is 12x20x8' setup width-wise.
My setup: Denon AVR1610, fronts - Energy RC10, center- RC mini CC, surrounds - Take 2. Used mostly (70-80%) for TV & movies.

The HSU STF-1 is on sale for $286; STF-2 is $388.

There's a couple DLS-3750R on ebay for $400-450. The DLS-3750R is more wife & neighbor friendly with the remote and night mode. But with the size of my living room would it be overkill? There's also the issue of clearance, how much space do you need behind it with it being front firing & ported?

sofast1
04-17-10, 09:39 AM
Can't decide which to get, both get good reviews from what I've read.
I have a townhouse, living room is 12x20x8' setup width-wise.
My setup: Denon AVR1610, fronts - Energy RC10, center- RC mini CC, surrounds - Take 2. Used mostly (70-80%) for TV & movies.

The HSU STF-1 is on sale for $286; STF-2 is $388.

There's a couple DLS-3750R on ebay for $400-450. The DLS-3750R is more wife & neighbor friendly with the remote and night mode. But with the size of my living room would it be overkill? There's also the issue of clearance, how much space do you need behind it with it being front firing & ported?

Does the living room open into other rooms(dining room or kitchen)? If so, the DLS-3750 might not be enough. Go to http://www.velodyne.com/wproduct/whproduct_new.aspx?sid=747j374l to see which sub would be right for you. You can place the DLS-3750r right up against the wall behind it(leave room for the cables). Position in the room(middle or end of a wall, in a corner etc.) can have a big effect on how a sub sounds. Keep in mind that a used sub(any brand) will have no warranty and that the cost of one repair will be the difference in price between a used one and a new one. You can buy a new DLS-3750r(or even better, a DEQ-10r) on-line from an authorized dealer for less than $500. You should check your local dealer too.

stanjk3
04-17-10, 07:39 PM
Does the living room open into other rooms(dining room or kitchen)? If so, the DLS-3750 might not be enough.

My house is a end unit, so the stairway divides the house into 2. Living room on one side, dining room & kitchen on the other. TV is up against the center wall that's 9' wide, with 3' wide hallways on each side. Only two places I can put a sub is to the left of the TV or the rear left corner between 2 walls and a sofa. The DLS-3750 is the biggest sub I can fit regardless of where I put it.

Gear4less has it for $410 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390174766026&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2768wt_1110

sofast1
04-17-10, 11:44 PM
My house is a end unit, so the stairway divides the house into 2. Living room on one side, dining room & kitchen on the other. TV is up against the center wall that's 9' wide, with 3' wide hallways on each side. Only two places I can put a sub is to the left of the TV or the rear left corner between 2 walls and a sofa. The DLS-3750 is the biggest sub I can fit regardless of where I put it.

Gear4less has it for $410 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390174766026&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2768wt_1110

Use the subwoofer selection wizard(I provided the link previously) and include the dining room and kitchen in your total volume. I suspect the dls-3750 will be too small. Impact 12's go for around $370 and VDR12"s go for around $450, but again you have to use the wizard to see which is right for you. Buying a subwoofer that's too small will result in you wasting your money,you being frustrated, and lastly, overdriving the sub(creating lots of problems). Gear4less is not an authorized dealer(you can verify this with Velodyne), which means you will have no warranty(that will only make matters worse if you overdrive it). Authorized on-line dealers sell it for $499 with free shipping. You can contact Velodyne (all the contact info is at http://www.velodyne.com/contact/default.aspx?sid=469c751f ) and verify the info I have given you. Godd luck:)

stanjk3
04-18-10, 12:52 AM
Either Hsu has 7 years on the woofer, 2 on the electronics, the DLS series has 5/3 years. The question is if you buy a sub that's only been used for a couple/few months, will they still honor the remainder of the warranty?

According to Hsu's website, the STF-2 is good for a medium sized room up to 3000 cubic feet. The DLS-3750R, Impact-12, and STF-2 are about the same size. If one of those isn't enough, I guess I'll be adding a second one somewhere down the line.

miker104
04-18-10, 04:15 PM
Quick question for you Velodyne freak's. I have a dls5000 subwoofer that I think sounds okay not great for music but decent.. My question is will the spl1200 II give me a decent upgrade with the music or is it marginable? It will cost me about 150.00 for the upgrade, but the spl1200 does not have the microphone, I have a onkyo tx-sr805 that I will do the Auddessy calibration with anyway. Please only answer if you can give me a good comparision.. Mike

CT_Wiebe
04-18-10, 04:29 PM
rnstrait & sofast1 & all Velodyne Owners -- Curt told me that Velodyne is working on finding a replacement for him. Apparently, the arrangements have not been finalized yet. The bottom line - yes, Velodyne will continue to support this thread.

In the meantime, I guess it's up to us to carry the torch.

Remember, if you have a failed Velodyne Sub, be sure to contact the Service Center at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.

They can also help with operational problems.

sofast1
04-18-10, 06:02 PM
Quick question for you Velodyne freak's. I have a dls5000 subwoofer that I think sounds okay not great for music but decent.. My question is will the spl1200 II give me a decent upgrade with the music or is it marginable? It will cost me about 150.00 for the upgrade, but the spl1200 does not have the microphone, I have a onkyo tx-sr805 that I will do the Auddessy calibration with anyway. Please only answer if you can give me a good comparision.. Mike

Mike;The DLS-5000r will play louder than the SPL-1200II and have more impact for movies(it's a ported sub). The SPL-1200II will have a tighter low end(not necessarily deeper) and be better for music(it's a sealed box sub.). You will still need the mic. for the SPL-1200II which you can get at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. It's really a matter of what you listen to most. The DLS-5000r is great for movies,good for music. The SPL-1200II is great for music,good for movies. BTW; the SPL-1200II is discontinued,replaced by the Optimum-12. Hope this helps.

sofast1
04-18-10, 06:11 PM
check out the new velodyne website!!

miker104
04-18-10, 06:57 PM
Mike;The DLS-5000r will play louder than the SPL-1200II and have more impact for movies(it's a ported sub). The SPL-1200II will have a tighter low end(not necessarily deeper) and be better for music(it's a sealed box sub.). You will still need the mic. for the SPL-1200II which you can get at: (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. It's really a matter of what you listen to most. The DLS-5000r is great for movies,good for music. The SPL-1200II is great for music,good for movies. BTW; the SPL-1200II is discontinued,replaced by the Optimum-12. Hope this helps.

What will I need the mic for? As far as volume of the sub. I only have the dls5000 set at 9 on the volume for the sub. I dont know if this gives you any indication on how much impact Im looking for. The volume of the dls blends well with my fronts for music just the tone of the woofer sounds more like a sound instead of a musical instrument, is this what your talking about when you say tightness? Anyways thanks for your response, I do know what a good sounding subwoofer sounds like just cant compare the two in the same room with the same source.. I have a good sounding car system and want my home subwoofer/fronts to blend as well as my car.. Mike

sofast1
04-18-10, 09:38 PM
What will I need the mic for? As far as volume of the sub. I only have the dls5000 set at 9 on the volume for the sub. I dont know if this gives you any indication on how much impact Im looking for. The volume of the dls blends well with my fronts for music just the tone of the woofer sounds more like a sound instead of a musical instrument, is this what your talking about when you say tightness? Anyways thanks for your response, I do know what a good sounding subwoofer sounds like just cant compare the two in the same room with the same source.. I have a good sounding car system and want my home subwoofer/fronts to blend as well as my car.. Mike

You need the mic. to run the auto room eq. The SPL-1200II has much more eq. capability in the bass region than your reciever. It will also make the presets more accurate. You should run the auto room eq. in the sub, then run the Audessy. Before you buy a new sub try adjusting the crossover freq., it can definitely affect the sound of your subwoofer. If you're using your receiver to set the crossover freq., you should have the crossover on the sub set to "direct", don't use both. Your front speakers should be set to "small" on your receiver. Perhaps your local Velodyne dealer can help you A/B the subs.There's some info about the different designs of the two subs at;http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subdesign.aspx

stanjk3
04-19-10, 12:43 AM
Vann's has 2 customer returned DLS-3750R for $350 shipped. Warranty is still good, and they're an authorized dealer. Now where the hell is my tax return!!??

Bigred7078
04-19-10, 12:57 AM
I recently upgraded my receiver to prepro/amp setup. I hooked up my Integra DHC 80.1 to my 7.1 system. The .1 is the Velodyne DD-12 sub woofer.

The Integra comes with Audyssey MultiEQ room correction and setup.

I ran the Audyssey today and noticed something strange. My FL, FC and FR showed up as 12 ft away from listening position. My subwoofer, on the other hand (Velodyne DD12) showed up as being 24 ft. away from the listening position. Not sure why that would be the case. The subwoofer is actually sitting right between the FL and FR speakers.

Is there any setting that I need to turn on or off either in the 80.1 or DD-12 ?:confused:

Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

This is normal. Its just taking into account the delay and phase alignment. Its not an actual representation of the subwoofer distance.

zippymelon
04-20-10, 02:53 PM
I've just emailed Velodyne's customer service email address (as indicated in this thread) regarding two SPL-1000 Series II with some as yet undetermined damage to their built-in amplifiers.

Currently both subs produce only a crackling noise when driven from any of their inputs, regardless of settings (cross-over etc..)

Both subs were recently purchased via eBay and the previous owner says they were in working condition prior to the sale. If this is the case then I assume that they were damaged in shipment (from California to Buffalo). They have no signs of physical damage whatsoever and the woofers are in pristine condition (examined from the front of the cone as well as internally by removing the amplifier).

I took them both to the only recommended/authorized repair facility in Southern Ontario (I'm located near Toronto) and they have just gotten back to me with a quote for $425 PER sub for repair. They claim that Velodyne is unwilling to send them amps and this is the price which will include them having to send the amplifiers to Velodyne in the US for the repair work. Sounds a little odd to me that they'd need to ask Velodyne for a complete amplifier assembly instead of diagnosing and repairing only the failed components. They're charging me $25 per sub for having provided me with this information.

I'm currently working with the original owner to determine what to do - shall he pay for the repair or will these subs be returned to him for a refund. We're both already going to be out of pocket since I'd be paying to send them back and have also wasted 45 minutes driving each way to drop them off and pick them up from the repair shop.

Does anyone have any advice? As mentioned at the top of the post, I've just contacted Velodyne directly to hear what they have to say. I'm willing to work with them directly if they can attend to the repair at a more reasonable cost.

sotobird
04-21-10, 09:31 AM
zippymelon

ive owned one of these in the past it is a very good sub if the driver is in like new shape 425 is not bad for a new amp keep in mind new velos can be had for 1000 that would be a upgrade over your unit

zippymelon
04-21-10, 06:08 PM
Does someone at Velodyne normally reply to messages sent to the service email address? Or am I better off giving them a call?

CT_Wiebe
04-21-10, 06:16 PM
zippymelon -- They should respond to your email. However, you will get faster service if you call them.

Omen
04-22-10, 09:46 AM
zippymelon -- They should respond to your email. However, you will get faster service if you call them.

+1

When I had a problem with the amp in my HGS-15, I called them. Very quick and friendly response.

Greengecko
04-23-10, 01:50 PM
Blown Velodyne FSR-18

I've got a blown Velodyne FSR-18 that I would like to repair. The one thing I know that's wrong with it is the driver, which has a separated dustcap, so when you push the driver it opens up and air blows out. When you power it up it makes an ongoing squeak/clicking sound. I don't know if the amp itself is good or not, but it does power up and the light in front stays on. Is there any hope for this thing?

sofast1
04-23-10, 03:45 PM
Blown Velodyne FSR-18

I've got a blown Velodyne FSR-18 that I would like to repair. The one thing I know that's wrong with it is the driver, which has a separated dustcap, so when you push the driver it opens up and air blows out. When you power it up it makes an ongoing squeak/clicking sound. I don't know if the amp itself is good or not, but it does power up and the light in front stays on. Is there any hope for this thing?

You should contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can tell you if it can be repaired, how much it will cost, or recomend a suitable replacment.

Kord M
04-24-10, 05:09 PM
Hey all,

I have a DPS-12 that inexplicably stopped working. Top LED lights don't work, doesn't respond to the top buttons, but the amp powers up and the speaker does pass signal when connected.

When I moved it into my shop, a bunch of mouse droppings fell out of the front port (it was sitting on the floor in my finished basement), and what looks to be a bone from a chicken wing. There's always little kids running around down there, and I have no idea what happened. Maybe that mouse chewed up some wires, or worse, got zapped and died... there's no foul smell coming from the port though.

Anyways, I was trying to remove the back amp plate with no luck. I removed the 12 bolts on the back and the plate won't come off. There's three other screws on the back panel but I assume those are holding components to the inside.

How do I remove the back panel without damaging anything? The warranty is expired and I'd rather not have to send it in for repair, I'm hoping there's something simple like a disconnected wire or burnt fuse.

sofast1
04-24-10, 06:31 PM
Hey all,

I have a DPS-12 that inexplicably stopped working. Top LED lights don't work, doesn't respond to the top buttons, but the amp powers up and the speaker does pass signal when connected.

When I moved it into my shop, a bunch of mouse droppings fell out of the front port (it was sitting on the floor in my finished basement), and what looks to be a bone from a chicken wing. There's always little kids running around down there, and I have no idea what happened. Maybe that mouse chewed up some wires, or worse, got zapped and died... there's no foul smell coming from the port though.

Anyways, I was trying to remove the back amp plate with no luck. I removed the 12 bolts on the back and the plate won't come off. There's three other screws on the back panel but I assume those are holding components to the inside.

How do I remove the back panel without damaging anything? The warranty is expired and I'd rather not have to send it in for repair, I'm hoping there's something simple like a disconnected wire or burnt fuse.

The screws you need to remove should be 12 phillips head. Now use a small flat blade screwdriver around the edge to get it started to pull out. If you find that it's not something simple, you should contact Velodyne service at; (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They can tell you if it can be repaired, how much it will cost, or recomend a suitable replacment. Good luck!

[KYA]Mega
04-27-10, 12:54 AM
Hi, I think it's just Awesome that Velodyne has an "official" thread, and I'm encouraged by the post from CT_Wiebe saying they are planning to continue supporting it.

But for now, I would like some advice that might actually be better not answered by an official Velodyne rep anyway.

My Velodyne CT-150 went out on me, and while I'm waiting for a response from customer service, I've also tentatively been shopping to see what I can get as a replacement assuming I get bad news (I really don't want to ship an 85 lb sub out of state for repairs considering it's current value).

So... I have been reading up on a lot of different subs, and from what I have gathered, some are more musical, and some more impactful. Also, bigger doesn't just mean louder, it also means lower. My listening area is quite small, but I'm looking for something that will also sound good in a bigger room for future proofing. My CT-150 was overkill, but sounded great with the volume set low. So at first, I was only considering another 15". So the DLS-5000R (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/series.aspx?seriesid=1207) seemed to be the obvious choice. But then I read complaints about not being able to visually determine the volume level, and for around the same price, I could get a DEQ-12R (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/series.aspx?seriesid=1203). Considering my fairly small listening area, I know the 12" would be plenty loud, but do you think I would notice the 15" hitting lower? I use my system for movies, games, and music. I would probably leave it on the music (Jazz) setting all the time though since I would have more than enough output for everything else too (given my small room).

Also (here is the non-Velodyne part) I have been considering the HSU VTF-3 MK3 (http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-mk3.html). Reviews seem very positive, and I'd put it in max extension mode for now... and it might be more future proof since I can simply change it to max output mode if I ever move into a larger room and need it. I may be silly for thinking I'll even notice that it hits 18Hz (considering that is below normal hearing range anyway), but something about that just seems great, and if I'm dropping this kind of money on a sub, it might as well do something extraordinary like that. ;)

Any advice/replies welcome. Thanks in advance. :)

Edit: Might as well throw the HSU VTF-2 MK3 (http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2-mk3.html) into the mix. I overlooked it because I was still in "bigger is better" mode when I found out about that brand. But now I seethe FTF-2 actually has the same driver and same frequecy response as the VTF-3, only a smaller amp (and of course less expensive). So now my Hsu option could potentially give me deeper bass, and save me money... and still have the option to change to max output mode if I ever need more volume in the future. Hmmm....

abba1
04-27-10, 07:38 AM
Adding to the above thread, I'm also in the market for a new sub. I would say that my present sub, a Velodyne 3500 (discontinued) is still working fine. I bought it back in 2002 and is the only piece of AV equipment that I haven't up graded. I have a very small listening area (10 x 12 x 8) with three Ascend Sierra's up front powered by an Onkyo 707. I am thinking about buying a DEQ 10 or the DLS 3750. I am also open to other makes / models but the Velodyne I presently have has served me well thus far. Any thoughts / suggestions / opinions??? Thanks in advance.

sofast1
04-27-10, 01:41 PM
Mega & Abba1; the first step is to got to the Velodyne "what to buy" page. http://www.velodyne.com/vcomparesub/selectsub.aspx When you select the volume of your "listening area" it is critical that you include any room that your listening area opens into (dining room,kitchen,halls etc.). Unlike a speaker, a subwoofer cannot play for an "area" so you have to consider the whole open area the long wavelengths (bass notes) can travel to. While the DLS and DEQ series do sound pretty much the same, the DEQ does have a digital volume readout and it also has a 5 band auto-eq room bass correction(really cool!). The 15" does go a little lower, but wether you'll hear the difference really depends on the source material. Placement position (in a corner,middle of wall,end of wall etc.) can have a big effect on a subwoofer's performance, experiment if you can. There's no such thing as having too big a sub(if you've got room and an agreeable wife) and when I bought mine I thought " do I go with the 12" and wonder if the 15" would have been better?" or "do I go with the 15" and wonder if the 12" would have been enough?" There's around a $200 difference and the 15" is a little bigger dimension-wise. So, it kind of depends on your money and space budgets. Again, go to the "what to buy" link- you could be deciding between a 10" and a 12". Mega- as for your CT-150, 95% of sub failures is the amp, not the driver. You probably would only have to ship the amp, not the entire subwoofer. I doubt if you'll get a lot of feedback on HSU subs here(it is a Velodyne thread) and I don't have any personal experience with them. Don't forget, the HSU subs don't have a remote control (great for adjusting bass level of source material) or Auto-eq. HSU does have a very good reputation, and many people think Dr. Hsu is a genius when it comes to subs. It's too bad they're not available in stores, so you could hear it before buying it. They do have a 30 day return policy(you pay return shipping). Hope I was of some help:rolleyes:!

Brent Hutto
04-27-10, 01:59 PM
I had lightning damage a bunch of my "stuff" (computer, cable box, HT receiver, subwoofer) including a CT-150 which I really liked. The support folks suggested a procedure to determine if it were the amp or also the driver, Basically use jumper clips to connect a speaker cable directly to the driver with the amp removed. That procedure confirmed that it was both the amp (power light would not come on) and driver (no sound whatsoever during the test) so I just scrapped the whole unit rather than try to ship it back for what would be a total replacement.

I replaced it with another Velodyne that I picked up cheap as an open-box at Circuit City. Works fine for movies but sort of sucks at music, not that I listen to much music in the HT room. But the CT-150 was very tight and musical on convert DVD's and such.

sofast1
04-27-10, 04:59 PM
[QUOTE=Brent Hutto;18547533]I had lightning damage a bunch of my "stuff" (computer, cable box, HT receiver, subwoofer) including a CT-150 which I really liked.

I know it's too late now, but it might help you in the future;I highly recomend Panamax products for lightning protection(as well as a line conditioner,noise supression etc.). I live in an area that is commonly referred to as"the lightning capital of the U.S" and have had many strikes near my house(even a transformer that was very close) and my Panamax has never failed. Panamax has a great warranty too. This is a Velodyne thread, so 'nuff said!:cool:

xtrips
04-27-10, 05:02 PM
Curt,
As you know there has been a long standing issue with the Anthem D2 and AVM-50 pre/pros not being able to recognize the S-video EQ user interface from the Velodyne DD series subs. Apparently this is also a problem with some other receivers and pre/pros, but not all.

With the Anthem products, if you switch the video scaler input from some other S-video source to the Velodyne, there is a brief glimpse of the Velodyne main screen and then the Anthem gives up and acts as if it has no valid video input.

On the other hand the Anthem can "pass through" the Velodyne S-video, unprocessed, to the Anthem's S-video output and that works just fine -- i.e., run a separate S-video cable from the Anthem to the TV and select that TV input when working with the Velodyne EQ screens.

--------------------------------------------------------------

There've been a a number of guess about why this doesn't work right, but so far no fix.

Now I've got a new guess. I think it is possible that the Anthem's video scaler input is having trouble synchronizing with the Velodyne's generated S-video because of the blue background on the Velodyne screens.

So, is there any way for the user to change the DD series EQ S-video background color to something else?
--Bob

Hello,

I have an Anthem D2v and a DD-18 and I tried using the DD composite output in vain.
What's the final word on this issue?
How should I set my connection between my DD-18 and my D2v in order to get the OSD?

Thanks

Bob Pariseau
04-27-10, 05:17 PM
Hello,

I have an Anthem D2v and a DD-18 and I tried using the DD composite output in vain.
What's the final word on this issue?
How should I set my connection between my DD-18 and my D2v in order to get the OSD?

Thanks
There is no problem using S-video from the DD subs with the Anthem Statement D2v (still doesn't work for processed video with the older D2 -- you have to pass it through as unprocessed S-video to your display).

If you are not getting video with your D2v then it is likely a settings or cabling problem. It is very common for S-video plugs to shift slightly out of the socket for example, which will lose video.

(Note that the D2v (and D2) do not "process" COMPOSITE video inputs. You must use S-video.)
--Bob

xtrips
04-27-10, 05:19 PM
There is no problem using S-video from the DD subs with the Anthem Statement D2v (still doesn't work for processed video with the older D2 -- you have to pass it through as unprocessed S-video to your display).

If you are not getting video with your D2v then it is likely a settings or cabling problem. It is very common for S-video plugs to shift slightly out of the socket for example, which will lose video.

(Note that the D2v (and D2) do not "process" COMPOSITE video inputs. You must use S-video.)
--Bob

Thanks

abba1
04-27-10, 07:33 PM
I am thinking about purchasing a Velo DEQ series sub. This will be powered by an Onkyo 707. I will add at this point that I have read a number of different responses to the following question and I'm not sure which is right. The ''chicken or the egg'' question...do you run the Velo EQ first or the Audyssey??? Thanks in advance.

miker104
04-27-10, 07:40 PM
I am thinking about purchasing a Velo DEQ series sub. This will be powered by an Onkyo 707. I will add at this point that I have read a number of different responses to the following question and I'm not sure which is right. The ''chicken or the egg'' question...do you run the Velo EQ first or the Audyssey??? Thanks in advance.

I asked this question the other day. and the response was run the velo calibration first then the onkyo, but the more I think about it that makes no sense to ever run both, because one will correct the other... If you run the velo first the onkyo will correct everthing that it did to its calibration standard and the same goes if you run it the other way...

sofast1
04-27-10, 08:09 PM
I asked this question the other day. and the response was run the velo calibration first then the onkyo, but the more I think about it that makes no sense to ever run both, because one will correct the other... If you run the velo first the onkyo will correct everthing that it did to its calibration standard and the same goes if you run it the other way...

Audessy wil adjust all your speakers, the Velodyne auto-eq will only adjust the sub. After you run the the Velo auto-eq(to eq the sub to your room) then the Audessy(to balance the whole system), if the sub sounds too low(don't forget the y-adapter w/sub level around 30 on preset#3), run the Velo auto-eq again.

abba1
04-27-10, 08:30 PM
I think I found the answer to my own question (chicken / egg)...if you go to the Audyssey site there is ''Ask Audyssey...Audyssey 101'' It states (as does sofast1) that Velo EQ goes first then Audyssey. Guess if I do purchase the DEQ I'll just have to play around with it and see what works in my room to my ears.

sofast1
04-27-10, 08:50 PM
I think I found the answer to my own question (chicken / egg)...if you go to the Audyssey site there is ''Ask Audyssey...Audyssey 101'' It states (as does sofast1) that Velo EQ goes first then Audyssey. Guess if I do purchase the DEQ I'll just have to play around with it and see what works in my room to my ears.

Absolutely. Your ears are the final judge!

ninja12
04-27-10, 09:25 PM
Absolutely. Your ears are the final judge!

+1. I definitely agree. However, if I had to pick, I would run the Velo EQ first followed by Audyssey since Audyssey is balancing the whole system.

[KYA]Mega
04-28-10, 01:15 AM
I just wanted to come back and say thanks for the quick responses you guys gave me (public and private).

Velodyne support got back with me (very professional and friendly), and it looks like I'll probably be out around $250 including round-trip shipping if I have my CT-150 fixed by sending them just the amp. Comparing that with around $600 for the various replacement options I am considering is going to be a hard decision. It would be easy if I was not aware of the improvements I will gain by getting a new one. I loved my CT-150 right up until the end, but the new stuff out now has really nice features and/or can go much deeper. Hmmmmmm.

Ade-Russell
04-28-10, 12:45 PM
I have a Velodyne SPL1200R, USA model 110v. I will be relocating to Germany soon. Does anyone know if it is possible to convert it easily to 220V.

Cheers...

Ade

[KYA]Mega
04-28-10, 01:28 PM
Most 110V stuff will natively work at 220V if you just adapt the plug. The input voltage range should be printed directly on it somewhere. If it does not support 220V, rather than modifying your sub, you could just buy a voltage transforming adapter (which are inexpensive).

xtrips
04-28-10, 03:46 PM
Hello,

I haven't been using the OSD and the EQ settings for a long time. Maybe 2 years. Today I decided to try something and set it up for EQ.
I had the feeling that the DD wasn't actually doing anything with the input of the microphone. I mean I could see that the mike was working because if I spoke next to it I could see clear changes on the screen.
But when the DD was supposed to start changing levels and cues in SelfEQ it just showed a response at the extreme top of the graph and stayed there.
I suppose something is wrong but I don't know what.
One more thing I just noticed. If I enter the menu using 12345, and set the EQ MODE to AUTO the word "MIC?" shows up on the far top left over the word PRESET.
I guess it means that the sub doesn't see the mike. Right?
Some help would be appreciated here.
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8214/subselfeq.jpg
Thanks

defuentes
04-28-10, 08:16 PM
Hi:
I live in Mexico City and I'm looking to buy a DLS-4000R, a lot of people must have it around here, is it a good choice?.
Thank you.

sofast1
04-28-10, 09:32 PM
Hi:
I live in Mexico City and I'm looking to buy a DLS-4000R, a lot of people must have it around here, is it a good choice?.
Thank you.

The DLS-4000r offers a lot of "bang for the buck". The DEQ-12r has comparable performance with a digital readout and auto-room eq. There are many things to consider when choosing a sub;size of listening area, size of the sub itself(wife factor), $ budget, and movie/music mix. Before you buy a sub go to http://www.velodyne.com/vcomparesub/selectsub.aspx and see which one is right for you. When you select the size of your listening area, be sure to include any rooms(dining room,kitchen,halls etc.) that your listening area opens into.

xtrips
05-02-10, 03:51 AM
Hello,

I have attached 2 graphs that show where my problem lies. One is the Velodyne's OSD and the other is from my Anthem D2v's ARC.
It is around 23Hz if i am not mistaken and is a serious standing wave.
What would you do in the Velodyne setup in order to minimize its effects?

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5251/submeasurement.jpg
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6673/subarc.jpg

Thanks

sofast1
05-04-10, 05:17 PM
Hello,

I have attached 2 graphs that show where my problem lies. One is the Velodyne's OSD and the other is from my Anthem D2v's ARC.
It is around 23Hz if i am not mistaken and is a serious standing wave.
What would you do in the Velodyne setup in order to minimize its effects?



Thanks

Well, it doesn't look like any DD owners have your answer, and I don't have a DD at my disposal to help you. I would suggest that you contact Velodyne at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com They will be able and willing to help you(they do more than just handle repairs). I don't know if it will solve your problem, but I assume you have the version 2.2.2 software. If not, you can download it from the Velodyne website free.

catdog2
05-05-10, 02:18 AM
Hello. I'm Pete, I work in Velodyne's customer service dept. We have some sugestions that may correct your problem.
Please contact us at 408-465-2851. Our hours are 7:00AM to 3:30PM Pacific time.


Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208

Rob Morse
05-05-10, 12:29 PM
Will Velodyne keep a presence on this forum ?

This thread will be maintained by the Velodyne Product Support team. Dave, Pete, and I will be monitoring this thread.

Rob Morse
05-05-10, 12:34 PM
I have a Velodyne SPL1200R, USA model 110v. I will be relocating to Germany soon. Does anyone know if it is possible to convert it easily to 220V.

Cheers...

Ade

You can utilize an travel transformer that is rated for 8 amps or you can contact Velodyne service at 408-465-2851. We can have you send the electronics pack in for conversion.

Rob Morse
05-05-10, 12:58 PM
Hello,

I haven't been using the OSD and the EQ settings for a long time. Maybe 2 years. Today I decided to try something and set it up for EQ.
I had the feeling that the DD wasn't actually doing anything with the input of the microphone. I mean I could see that the mike was working because if I spoke next to it I could see clear changes on the screen.
But when the DD was supposed to start changing levels and cues in SelfEQ it just showed a response at the extreme top of the graph and stayed there.
I suppose something is wrong but I don't know what.
One more thing I just noticed. If I enter the menu using 12345, and set the EQ MODE to AUTO the word "MIC?" shows up on the far top left over the word PRESET.
I guess it means that the sub doesn't see the mike. Right?
Some help would be appreciated here.
Thanks

Give us a call at 408-465-2851 when you are with the unit so we can help you out.

sofast1
05-05-10, 02:18 PM
This thread will be maintained by the Velodyne Product Support team. Dave, Pete, and I will be monitoring this thread.

Welcome, and thank you!:)

Ade-Russell
05-06-10, 07:29 AM
You can utilize an travel transformer that is rated for 8 amps or you can contact Velodyne service at 408-465-2851. We can have you send the electronics pack in for conversion.

Thanks - I pulled the amp section and sent it in to be offcially converted - seems very reasonable and very simple.

Sideswipe
05-08-10, 05:12 PM
Hi,

I have a DPS 12 and the volume control works by a series of slow flashing lights followed by a series of faster flashing lights. For example, 3 slow flashing lights followed by 6 fast flashing lights tells me that the volume is at 36.

I just picked up a used DPS 12 and the volume control works differently. There is no slow flash followed by a faster flash. Simply, as i raise the volume the light flashes faster and faster and as i lower the volume the light flashes slower and slower. The volume does work though.

I tried resetting it but it stays the same.

Anyone have any idea why two exact same subs would have a different method of volume control?

Thanks
S

sofast1
05-08-10, 07:30 PM
Hi,

I have a DPS 12 and the volume control works by a series of slow flashing lights followed by a series of faster flashing lights. For example, 3 slow flashing lights followed by 6 fast flashing lights tells me that the volume is at 36.

I just picked up a used DPS 12 and the volume control works differently. There is no slow flash followed by a faster flash. Simply, as i raise the volume the light flashes faster and faster and as i lower the volume the light flashes slower and slower. The volume does work though.

I tried resetting it but it stays the same.

Anyone have any idea why two exact same subs would have a different method of volume control?

Thanks
S

AS you are adjusting the volume, the POWER light will blink fast as you increase the volume and slow as you lower the volume. AFTER you have adjusted the volume, the CENTER led will blink two sets (one slow and one fast, as you mentioned) to tell you what the volume level is. You can download the owner's manual (if you don't have one) from the Velodyne website, go to "support" then "downloads" then "manuals". Hope this helped:).

sotobird
05-09-10, 10:38 AM
hi all
i have a dd-10. My question to the DD faithfuls is low base extension compared to speaker stress i don't run the volume on the sub very load it is set to 21 the sub gain on the preamp is set to 1. If i run the the speaker for extension set the subsonic crossover to say 18 and the slope set to 12 what kind of life will i get from the sub.
and if the sub was not designed to handle this extension then why didn't velodyne put the info in the owners manual. it is obvious that the sub can produce the lower frequencies.
so those with the dd-10 what do you think and what kind of experience have you had.
any blown subs.
And the folks at velodyne why would guide lines not be included with the subs Ive read the owner manual and no reference to this is there
you would think for $2000 the sub could take anything you could through at it
i have read on this form the subsonic should be set from 25-30 that would seam like a waste of money. and the dealers sure don't tell a person that the sub is not designed to go deep

thanks for your input

Sideswipe
05-09-10, 10:58 AM
AS you are adjusting the volume, the POWER light will blink fast as you increase the volume and slow as you lower the volume. AFTER you have adjusted the volume, the CENTER led will blink two sets (one slow and one fast, as you mentioned) to tell you what the volume level is. You can download the owner's manual (if you don't have one) from the Velodyne website, go to "support" then "downloads" then "manuals". Hope this helped:).

Hi
What you describe is exactly how mine works. However, the used one that i bought does not blink the two sets after I adjust the volume to tell me what the volume is. Could it be that function is broken? Everything else works fine. The build date on the used one is 2005 versus 2008 on mine.

thanks
S

doublewing11
05-09-10, 11:08 AM
Curt no longer here? He was extremely helpful answering my questions with my theater sub setup..........

Anyhow..........several questions to ask with the following data:

New construction.......17X26X9 ft dedicated theatre:

Questions:

1) I've settled on purchasing 2 DD-18's which will be behind an acoustic screen, straddling the front cabinets adjacent to a 130" screen. My concern is having nodes right in the middle of two rows of seating.........I'm taking precautions by pre-wiring for two SC-15's in the rear for backup. Is this neccessary? Location of the two DD-18's is not negotiable...........up front, strattling the screen.

2) My dealer currently has a demo DD-1812 for sale at or near the same price as the duel DD-18's. My question is............would a single DD- 1812 be a better option............size is not an issue as all subs will be hidden up front.

3) Follow-up question to two: Another dealer who I may purchase a few items stated, "A DD-18 and a DD-12 in the room would be a better option than two DD-18's". This seemed counter intuitive and also not in line with my conversations with Curt through email. Curt stated that 2 DD-18's were the way to go for a 4000Ft^3 room.

4) Wiring issue: I was planning on having dedicated 15 amp circuits for each sub..........should I increase to dedicated 20 amp circuits? What special wiring is required for the DD-1812...........

Thanks................

(A happy Velodyne Customer for twenty years)

buggs1a
05-09-10, 11:19 AM
Wheres all the subs on velodynes site? I only see one line and like theres only 3 of them with no links to anymore. Click on products link and u get 3 and thats it.

sofast1
05-09-10, 11:36 AM
Hi
What you describe is exactly how mine works. However, the used one that i bought does not blink the two sets after I adjust the volume to tell me what the volume is. Could it be that function is broken? Everything else works fine. The build date on the used one is 2005 versus 2008 on mine.

thanks
S

I would restore the sub to default setting(press movies,rock,jazz,games,games,jazz,rock,movies). After you've done this, the power light should blink 3 times.Then you'll know that the volume level is 43 for movies,40 for rock,35 for jazz,39 for games. Each time you press volume up or down you'll raise or lower the volume by 1, so press slowly and count how many times you've pressed the volume control. This way you'll know what the volume level on the used one is and can match the volume level on the other one.

sofast1
05-09-10, 11:42 AM
Wheres all the subs on velodynes site? I only see one line and like theres only 3 of them with no links to anymore. Click on products link and u get 3 and thats it.

Go to www.Velodyne.com , move the cursor over "products"(don't click!),then over""north America"(don't click!). You'll see 12 selections. Click on the series you want to see. The website was upgraded a little while ago and it's a little different now.

buggs1a
05-09-10, 02:55 PM
I was on my droid. So maybe thats why it didnt show much since there is nno mouse over.

Rob Morse
05-10-10, 05:28 PM
Curt no longer here? He was extremely helpful answering my questions with my theater sub setup..........

Anyhow..........several questions to ask with the following data:

New construction.......17X26X9 ft dedicated theatre:

Questions:

1) I've settled on purchasing 2 DD-18's which will be behind an acoustic screen, straddling the front cabinets adjacent to a 130" screen. My concern is having nodes right in the middle of two rows of seating.........I'm taking precautions by pre-wiring for two SC-15's in the rear for backup. Is this neccessary? Location of the two DD-18's is not negotiable...........up front, strattling the screen.

2) My dealer currently has a demo DD-1812 for sale at or near the same price as the duel DD-18's. My question is............would a single DD- 1812 be a better option............size is not an issue as all subs will be hidden up front.

3) Follow-up question to two: Another dealer who I may purchase a few items stated, "A DD-18 and a DD-12 in the room would be a better option than two DD-18's". This seemed counter intuitive and also not in line with my conversations with Curt through email. Curt stated that 2 DD-18's were the way to go for a 4000Ft^3 room.

4) Wiring issue: I was planning on having dedicated 15 amp circuits for each sub..........should I increase to dedicated 20 amp circuits? What special wiring is required for the DD-1812...........

Thanks................

(A happy Velodyne Customer for twenty years)

1) Having two sub-woofers will typically reduce the room nodes and increase the sweet spot in the listening area. If you are concerned with the calibration of the sub-woofers over the larger listening area then you might consider purchasing the mic-5 kit for the Digital Drives. This will allow you to place 5 microphones across the listening and EQ to a larger space. Or you can EQ each sub to a slightly different listening location. I do not think you will need to be adding SC subs to the system. The two DD-18s can reproduce theater level output in rooms up to 5000 cubic feet. Additionally, while the SC are high quality sub-woofers they are not as good as the DD units, and you would be introducing sub-woofers with higher distortion levels and less accurate bass reproduction to the room.

2) While the DD-1812 is a wondrous piece of audio gear, and a lot of fun to show off to friends, given your set up, you will likely yield better results and have more output from the two DD18s.

3) Curt was right, two DD18s or even two DD15s are adequate for your room. (see the DD room sizing chart here (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/SizingCharts/DD_Room%20Sizing%20Chart.pdf)) I have no idea why the dealer would speak of a separate 12 and 18 inch sub, unless you had mentioned the 1812 to them.

4) A dedicated 15 circuit is sufficient. Each sub is limited by a 12 amp fuse. The DD-1812 requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit.

sotobird
05-12-10, 11:18 AM
I am going to get a new sub I have settled on probably the DD15 i am looking as well at the Paradigm SUB15 but more then likely the DD15
I currently have a DD10 not sure if i should use the DD10 with the DD15 or sell the DD10 the money would help offset the cost.
There is a few purchase options available floor model with a manufacturing date of 2005 $1800 , going new with very little discounts.
Could anyone tell me if the DD15 has changed over the years and if it is even possible to get a new manufactured unit and if the differences would be worth the cost.
The floor model carries the full warranty
And what about keeping the DD10 how would i set up the 2 together, crossover points, what about volume match can the DD10 keep up with the DD15. or is there to large of difference between the 2.
thanks for your input

mike

Rob Morse
05-12-10, 11:35 AM
I am going to get a new sub I have settled on probably the DD15 i am looking as well at the Paradigm SUB15 but more then likely the DD15
I currently have a DD10 not sure if i should use the DD10 with the DD15 or sell the DD10 the money would help offset the cost.
There is a few purchase options available floor model with a manufacturing date of 2005 $1800 , going new with very little discounts.
Could anyone tell me if the DD15 has changed over the years and if it is even possible to get a new manufactured unit and if the differences would be worth the cost.
The floor model carries the full warranty
And what about keeping the DD10 how would i set up the 2 together, crossover points, what about volume match can the DD10 keep up with the DD15. or is there to large of difference between the 2.
thanks for your input

mike

The DD15 manufactured in 2005 is virtually the same unit manufactured in 2010. There have been a few hardware updates and software updates. The software can be updated through our website (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/down_sf_upd.aspx). The hardware updates would be limited to minor changes that have no effect on acoustical performance.

The only real difference, and this is relatively minor, would be in the warranty coverage. Units manufactured prior to Jan 1 2007 carried a 2 year warranty. This demo unit would be covered by that warranty, starting on the day you purchased the subwoofer. The warranty on units manufactured after Jan 2007 carry a 3 year warranty on the electronics, and 5 years on the driver.

Regardless of your decision to purchase the demo unit or a new one you will be very happy.

As to utilizing the DD10 with the DD15, there is no problem with doing so. Adding a second subwoofer to any room will typically have beneficial results. Having the second sub can be especially helpful in rooms that open into other rooms. The second subwoofer can be place to help reinforce the bass in the primary listening area.

sotobird
05-12-10, 01:21 PM
Thanks Rob
i appreciate the info

alebonau
05-15-10, 10:15 AM
hi guys, have purchased a 2nd hand sms unit, but turns out it is missing its power pack. Looking to pick up and aftermarket power pack, 12 v 500ma, and a 230v unit as what need where I live. But can someone confirm to me please whether the pin on the inner or the outer sleeve is needed to be the '+' from the plug pack connector. would rather not blow up the sms by connecting up a dc plug pack with polarity wrong way around !

ps I also saw something about a sms fw update but apparently jomark and co were havign some issue with it wiht creating some noisefloor issues. any cures to this one. otherwise I'll just stay on the fw I have !

cgun
05-15-10, 10:35 PM
My good-old Velo 1800R started making a LOUD thumping noise. When I switch on the power the driver is motionless for a few seconds and then slowly starts moving in and out, picking up speed. I have to turn it off quickly or it starts "thumping" back and forth at full volume. It shakes my whole house :-)

Is this a known problem? Any recommended fixes? I've just email Volodyne support, but thought I'd ask here as well.

catdog2
05-16-10, 01:57 AM
My good-old Velo 1800R started making a LOUD thumping noise. When I switch on the power the driver is motionless for a few seconds and then slowly starts moving in and out, picking up speed. I have to turn it off quickly or it starts "thumping" back and forth at full volume. It shakes my whole house :-)

Is this a known problem? Any recommended fixes? I've just email Volodyne support, but thought I'd ask here as well.

Hello
The problem you are describing is likely the servo inside of the driver. Also, check for holes in the foam surrounding the driver.
Unfortunately, we no longer can repair or replace the driver on your F1800R.
What we can offer you is a trade-in upgrade in which you send in your complete unit and we will upgrade you to a B stock unit. Please contact us on Monday for more details on our upgrade program.

Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2800 ext.3851
Fax (408) 779-9208

alebonau
05-16-10, 02:45 AM
hi guys, have purchased a 2nd hand sms unit, but turns out it is missing its power pack. Looking to pick up and aftermarket power pack, 12 v 500ma, and a 230v unit as what need where I live. But can someone confirm to me please whether the pin on the inner or the outer sleeve is needed to be the '+' from the plug pack connector. would rather not blow up the sms by connecting up a dc plug pack with polarity wrong way around !

ps I also saw something about a sms fw update but apparently jomark and co were havign some issue with it wiht creating some noisefloor issues. any cures to this one. otherwise I'll just stay on the fw I have !

Hello
The problem you are describing is likely the servo inside of the driver. Also, check for holes in the foam surrounding the driver.
Unfortunately, we no longer can repair or replace the driver on your F1800R.
What we can offer you is a trade-in upgrade in which you send in your complete unit and we will upgrade you to a B stock unit. Please contact us on Monday for more details on our upgrade program.

Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2800 ext.3851
Fax (408) 779-9208

hi pete, any suggestions re my query above ?

catdog2
05-17-10, 05:02 AM
hi pete, any suggestions re my query above ?

Hello
I will verify the spec on the SMS1 230V power supply on Monday and send you PM. The pins should not be a problem. The SMS-1 software is under revision pleases check our web site in a few weeks.

Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc.
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208

alebonau
05-17-10, 05:39 AM
Hello
I will verify the spec on the SMS1 230V power supply on Monday and send you PM. The pins should not be a problem. The SMS-1 software is under revision pleases check our web site in a few weeks.

Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc.
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208

thankyou pete, look forward to your response. :)

ps have you heard from curt, how is he settling in retired life ! :)

zhenya01
05-17-10, 08:45 AM
Hello,

Could someone from Velodyne let me know what the output voltage range for SMS-1 is on the output lines? I have my SMS-1 connected to the controller for NHT SubTwo subwoofers and want to make sure that I will not overload the controller. Thanks!

Rob Morse
05-17-10, 10:22 AM
hi guys, have purchased a 2nd hand sms unit, but turns out it is missing its power pack. Looking to pick up and aftermarket power pack, 12 v 500ma, and a 230v unit as what need where I live. But can someone confirm to me please whether the pin on the inner or the outer sleeve is needed to be the '+' from the plug pack connector. would rather not blow up the sms by connecting up a dc plug pack with polarity wrong way around !


The center pin is positive.

Rob Morse
05-17-10, 10:44 AM
Hello,

Could someone from Velodyne let me know what the output voltage range for SMS-1 is on the output lines? I have my SMS-1 connected to the controller for NHT SubTwo subwoofers and want to make sure that I will not overload the controller. Thanks!

The SMS-1 operates in the pre-amp phase of the signal path, connected between your pre-amps outputs or receivers LFE output and the subwoofer. The inputs of the NHT controller were designed to be connected to these same variable pre-outs of the preamp or receiver. The SMS-1 does not amplify that signal any more than adjusting the gain structure in your receiver's speaker level management. There is no way for the RCA outputs on the SMS-1 to overload the controller.

alebonau
05-18-10, 05:40 AM
The center pin is positive.

thankyou Rob, much appreciated :)

68sting
05-18-10, 12:32 PM
Hello

I have two subs with issues. I have a HGS18 that thinks its a motor cylce. Here's short video of it. Any ideas on what this is?

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk225/68sting/th_p1030351.jpg (http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk225/68sting/?action=view&current=p1030351.flv)

The second sub is a F1800XR that thumps every time it turns on. Its don't this since the day I bought it but doesn't seem right.

thanks
Lance

Rob Morse
05-19-10, 02:41 PM
Hello

I have two subs with issues. I have a HGS18 that thinks its a motor cylce. Here's short video of it. Any ideas on what this is?

The second sub is a F1800XR that thumps every time it turns on. Its don't this since the day I bought it but doesn't seem right.

thanks
Lance

It would seem the HGS has an electronics failure. Please contact our service department M-F from 7am - 3:30 PDT at 408-465-2851. Please be sure to have your serial number available when you call.

It is not uncommon for the Foundation series to make a small thump or clicking noise when powered up as the servo engages. If the noise persists or is loud then there may be another issue in play.

Rob Morse
05-27-10, 10:19 AM
Need a quick question answered and don't want to wait for a reply. Check the list of FAQs (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/faq.aspx) on our website.

yeagerda
05-29-10, 09:28 AM
I have a Velodyne HGS10BG, built Nov 2000. Bought new. Not used much, but it has started clicking after being powered on for awhile. Any suggestions for a DIY fix? Or if not, what's my next step? Thanks.

[Sorry for not doing just a tiny bit of homework before posting. Seems my symptom is similar to above poster. Guess we'll be calling Velodyne on Tues!]

jehanzeb
05-31-10, 03:06 AM
Need a quick question answered and don't want to wait for a reply. Check the list of FAQs (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/faq.aspx) on our website.

Hi Rob,
I checked the FAQ page but was unable to find information regarding setting up phase for two subwoofers. How can I set the correct phase for two subwoofers ?
Thanks!

barrysb
05-31-10, 11:53 AM
For factory techs:

Back this past March, I purchased a DEQ15R via the web. I've never been completely satisfied with the performance of this unit, however, since it's main purpose is to fill low frequencies 40 Hz and below it was difficult ascertain whether it was working as there is not a lot of program material in this range. I finally decided to do some further testing and have found, what I believe is a significant problem. I'm only using the LFE connection from my Denon 3310 to the DEQ but this output is also feeding Def Tech LCR loudspeakers, which also have LFE inputs. I noticed when I connected the DEQ LFE to the bus I initially got a loud hum, which quickly disappeared when the connector was finally seated. Thinking there might be a AC voltage difference between the Denon and DEQ chassis I got out my voltmeter and measured 75 VAC difference between the two and this increased to 120VAC when I turned the power switch off on the DEQ!. To be safe, I pulled the plug on the DEQ.

I'm running all my equipment off the same power source and all plugs are polarized so it appears the DEQ is wired incorrectly. The unit is working perfectly on its own, so I'm hoping you can give me instructions on how to correct this problem without having to return the beast to the factory.

P.S. This unit was ordered from Vann's.

barrysb
05-31-10, 02:53 PM
I'm mentioned in the previous post I'm attempting to drive 4 LFE inputs from the single LFE output on the Denon 3310 (DEQ-15 and Def. Tech. LCR) The Def. Techs work fine but the bus is severely loaded when I connect the DEQ L&R LFE inputs. Could this be connected with the AC power problem or am I putting too much load on the LFE bus? Should I use an audio DA to distribute the LFE signal?

m adkins
06-01-10, 06:14 AM
I would love to have the DD15 but budget does not permit it, so I am looking towards a DEQ15R, but my concern is if it is going to be satisfying for a music listen, will this sub provide musical enjoyment? Minimal boom and has a controlled bass sound w/o the 1 note bass we usually encounter w/ older subs? How does the DEQ 15R compare w/ a Paradigm DSP3400 14" subwoofer for a little more money?

barrysb
06-01-10, 06:49 AM
How does the DEQ 15R compare w/ a Paradigm DSP3400 14" subwoofer for a little more money?

I won't be able to compare the DEQ15 with the Paradign but will be using mine for music listening once I get it working right. Will post my findings.

Blair6878
06-01-10, 08:46 AM
Hi,

I have a Velodyne FSR-15 and the outer perimeter of the internal dust cover (the accordion shaped one between the cone and magnets) has come unglued. I am not sure what material that white part is that it bonds to. Could someone please tell me if Elmers would be adequate for this.

I appreciate any info.

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 10:17 AM
I have a Velodyne HGS10BG, built Nov 2000. Bought new. Not used much, but it has started clicking after being powered on for awhile. Any suggestions for a DIY fix? Or if not, what's my next step? Thanks.

[Sorry for not doing just a tiny bit of homework before posting. Seems my symptom is similar to above poster. Guess we'll be calling Velodyne on Tues!]

A clicking sound is most likely a result of an electronics pack failure. Please gather the serial number and contact us at 408-465-2851.

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 10:27 AM
Hi Rob,
I checked the FAQ page but was unable to find information regarding setting up phase for two subwoofers. How can I set the correct phase for two subwoofers ?
Thanks!

This will depend on your subwoofer placement. In the end you will need to experiment with the phase settings until you find the combination that yeilds the best results.
I would start with just one subwoofer. Sit in your listening location while listening to music with good bass, and have someone else change the phase without telling you. When it sounds the best your found your phase setting, now add the second subwoofer and repeat.

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 10:38 AM
For factory techs:

Back this past March, I purchased a DEQ15R via the web. I've never been completely satisfied with the performance of this unit, however, since it's main purpose is to fill low frequencies 40 Hz and below it was difficult ascertain whether it was working as there is not a lot of program material in this range. I finally decided to do some further testing and have found, what I believe is a significant problem. I'm only using the LFE connection from my Denon 3310 to the DEQ but this output is also feeding Def Tech LCR loudspeakers, which also have LFE inputs. I noticed when I connected the DEQ LFE to the bus I initially got a loud hum, which quickly disappeared when the connector was finally seated. Thinking there might be a AC voltage difference between the Denon and DEQ chassis I got out my voltmeter and measured 75 VAC difference between the two and this increased to 120VAC when I turned the power switch off on the DEQ!. To be safe, I pulled the plug on the DEQ.

I'm running all my equipment off the same power source and all plugs are polarized so it appears the DEQ is wired incorrectly. The unit is working perfectly on its own, so I'm hoping you can give me instructions on how to correct this problem without having to return the beast to the factory.

P.S. This unit was ordered from Vann's.

It is not uncommon for an amplified source to make some sort of buzz when the RCA input is touched but not inserted all the way. The important thing is when the RCA input is fully seated the sound is not there.

In order to reduce the risk of ground loop hums, Velodyne, like many others, utilize a floating ground, as such you can measure a voltage off the amp plate, however the current is almost non-existent.

I would note that the outputs on the DEQ-15R utilizes an 80Hz high pass filter; you should daisy chain this into another device that you want LFE information going to. In your particular set up, I would look to a small distribution amp.

barrysb
06-01-10, 10:47 AM
I would note that the outputs on the DEQ-15R utilizes an 80Hz high pass filter; you should daisy chain this into another device that you want LFE information going to. In your particular set up, I would look to a small distribution amp.

I think a small distribution amp is the answer, however, I'm thinking of using the LFE output of my Denon 3310 to feed all LFE inputs in the system, which are a total of five if you use both L&R inputs of the DEQ plus LCR-LFE inputs of the Def. Techs. The 3310 is doing the base management. Do you see a problem with this setup?

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 10:53 AM
I would love to have the DD15 but budget does not permit it, so I am looking towards a DEQ15R, but my concern is if it is going to be satisfying for a music listen, will this sub provide musical enjoyment? Minimal boom and has a controlled bass sound w/o the 1 note bass we usually encounter w/ older subs? How does the DEQ 15R compare w/ a Paradigm DSP3400 14" subwoofer for a little more money?

The DD15 is indeed a wondrous piece of equipment, and while the DEQ-15R (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/series.aspx?seriesid=1203) is in its price point one of the best subwoofers available, they are as different as a BMW M5 and a Ferrari. The good thing is while the BMW may not perform as precisely as the Ferrari, its still really fun to drive. The same is true of the DEQ-15R. In its price point it will compare favorably if not superior to other subwoofers.

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 10:57 AM
I think a small distribution amp is the answer, however, I'm thinking of using the LFE output of my Denon 3310 to feed all LFE inputs in the system, which are a total of five if you use both L&R inputs of the DEQ plus LCR-LFE inputs of the Def. Techs. The 3310 is doing the base management. Do you see a problem with this setup?

One point of bass management will be simplest and most likely yield the best results.

Rob Morse
06-01-10, 11:00 AM
Hi,

I have a Velodyne FSR-15 and the outer perimeter of the internal dust cover (the accordion shaped one between the cone and magnets) has come unglued. I am not sure what material that white part is that it bonds to. Could someone please tell me if Elmers would be adequate for this.

I appreciate any info.

Elmer's glue is not the answer. I would recommend contacting a speaker repair shop experienced in Servo-Driver repair. (PM sent)

sofast1
06-01-10, 01:06 PM
I would love to have the DD15 but budget does not permit it, so I am looking towards a DEQ15R, but my concern is if it is going to be satisfying for a music listen, will this sub provide musical enjoyment? Minimal boom and has a controlled bass sound w/o the 1 note bass we usually encounter w/ older subs? How does the DEQ 15R compare w/ a Paradigm DSP3400 14" subwoofer for a little more money?

I agree with Rob. While I've never done an A/B with the two subs, I have heard both and I preferred the DEQ-15r(love the remote,presets and included auto-eq). I've had my DEQ-15r for a year and use it for 50% music and 50% HT with B&W speakers. It sounds great. You would have to spend a LOT more money to get a better sub. Remember that placement in the room can often be the difference between good and great!

Blair6878
06-01-10, 01:40 PM
Thank you Rob.

m adkins
06-02-10, 10:03 AM
Just heard at a dealer the JL audio 10" subwoofer I think the F110?, it is supoosed to be at the highest end of the subwoofer spectrum and twice the price of the DEQ 15R, will this small 10" sub w/ monster driver play cleaner & louder than the DEQ15R?

Based on what I heard pf the JL audio sub, it is soft, articulate and w/ power, will I get this from the DEQ 15R? hoping to get even 80% of its performance.

Thanks again advance!

Thanks Rob for the advise..

m adkins
06-02-10, 10:11 AM
will the present DEQ-R series be a better sub than the older more expensive subs such as the Velodyne FSR line or yet the much older F series??

Rob Morse
06-02-10, 10:23 AM
This thread is not the place for comparing and contrasting different brand subwoofers to Velodyne subwoofers. If you would like to call me we can chat offline. While we are at it we can go into greater depth of detail about your needs and perhaps discover a different model that better meets your needs. Thank you for your interest in Velodyne.

m adkins
06-04-10, 12:47 PM
Hi Rob,

sorry for posting other brand comparison here in the velodyne thread. I am now almost sure of buying the Velodyne DEQ15R / CHT-15 for our country in 220V. My question is how do I calibrate the auto EQ function when using 2 subs? setting 2 microphone at the same time at the listening chair and pushing the Auto EQ function at the same time? or use Auto EQ one at a time for each sub. Can I also use speaker level output to my integrated amp and not connecting my main speakers to the speaker level-in side of the sub?

BTW, I am planning to initially locate the subwoofer maybe 2 feet from the backwall and both placed at the center of the front wall together for symmetry, any comments on this arrangement? Room size is around 13 feet by 16 feet w/ 9 ft ceiling. Are 2 CHT 15Q/ DEQ 15R overkill in this size room, I listen to all types of music such as vocals, jazz, big band and especially listen to louder levels in my house/dance music, that's why I'm opting for 2 15"ers.

Thanks in advance...

Rob Morse
06-04-10, 01:47 PM
Hi Rob,

sorry for posting other brand comparison here in the velodyne thread. I am now almost sure of buying the Velodyne DEQ15R / CHT-15 for our country in 220V. My question is how do I calibrate the auto EQ function when using 2 subs? setting 2 microphone at the same time at the listening chair and pushing the Auto EQ function at the same time? or use Auto EQ one at a time for each sub. Can I also use speaker level output to my integrated amp and not connecting my main speakers to the speaker level-in side of the sub?

BTW, I am planning to initially locate the subwoofer maybe 2 feet from the backwall and both placed at the center of the front wall together for symmetry, any comments on this arrangement? Room size is around 13 feet by 16 feet w/ 9 ft ceiling. Are 2 CHT 15Q/ DEQ 15R overkill in this size room, I listen to all types of music such as vocals, jazz, big band and especially listen to louder levels in my house/dance music, that's why I'm opting for 2 15"ers.

Thanks in advance...

There is no need to apologize, since this support thread is maintained by actual Velodyne Employees we go out of our way to not comment on other brands of equipment.

When calibrating two DEQ subwoofers, you would do each one independently. Calibrate one, then the other. You are equalizing the subwoofer's location to the listening location. I would not try to EQ both subwoofers at the same time, if there is any timing variation in the sweeps it will effect your results.

While you can utilize the speaker level inputs, we recommend using line level connections when ever possible. When utilizing the high level inputs, you do not need to connect you speakers to the subwoofer, and may run them directly from your amplifier.

Subwoofer placement is always a conundrum. Since every room is different there is no one correct placement. It is often a battle of aesthetics vs acoustics. You may find that by moving one subwoofer to another wall or firing in a different direction, you might acheive better sound, but then again you might not. You might check the subwoofer placement section of our FAQ (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/faq.aspx) as it may be of some help.

Two CHT15Q subwoofers is a will be a lot of bass in that room, assuming it does not open up to other rooms. If it is overkill comes down to personal taste, and I know several people who would say no.

gerchy
06-04-10, 06:01 PM
Hello all!

I want to share my experience with DD-15. I did the auto calibration with the microphone (no EQ outputs were present at that time). Low frequencies became harder and since I'm used to very soft bass coming from my floorstanders I moved on to manual equalization.

I set the volume (18), polarity (+), phase (135) and theater/music (3) to my taste. I also disabled the low pass freq while AVR is doing the job (at 80 Hz).

Then I connected the sub with AVR and started the manual calibration. Here are the results with sub on mute:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=177235&stc=1&d=1275688580


Main speakers + DD-15

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=177234&stc=1&d=1275688475


Here are the graphs, tuned by auto EQ mode and with some manual touches.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=177236&stc=1&d=1275688580

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=177232&stc=1&d=1275688475

I must say, the equalized setup does not sound good to me. I'm aware the curve is far of being perfect but that is the best I can do with current room. The curve slightly improves at 90 Hz when putting the mic above head.

Here is the curve I like best so far:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=177233&stc=1&d=1275688475


I prefer flat line with settings described above. The bass is almost the same when listening stereo speakers in full range mode: deep, soft and punchy.

Any explanation or am I just weird? :)

Rob Morse
06-04-10, 06:31 PM
Gerchy

I may not be fully understanding what you asking so I would suggest calling me on Monday to discuss this. On the surface I don't see a problem. The subwoofer's EQ will only effect the subwoofer. There will be no effect on frequencies above the cross over setting you have set in the receiver. Thanks to your chart with the sub on mute we can see where exactly to begin ignoring the graphs frequency response. Most of your charts show the subwoofer response pretty much within the ideal plus or minus 3dB.

The thing to remember is not everybody likes flat frequency responses. Ultimately it does not matter what the graph says but what do your ears say; use the graph as a starting point and tune it to what you like.

gerchy
06-05-10, 04:05 AM
Thanks Rob.

I just wanted to share my findings since I find it strange liking flat responses since the Digital drive technology is known to optimize performance for any room position and to perfectly blend the subwoofer with the main speakers.

I`m also aware that my current room with 1000 cubic meters is far away from being suitable for such gear.

One more thing ... when crossover is set to 80 Hz for all the speakers, does it make sense setting it higher for the subwoofer, let`s say to 100 or 120 as some receivers offer different crossover settings for each channel.

m adkins
06-05-10, 03:32 PM
Thanks for the informative response, one last thing, when using 2 subwoofers w/ line level connection, can I just use the LFE output from each subwoofer to my pre-amp Left &Right? or have to use both Left & right jacks using Y-connector from 1 subwoofer to one channel of my pre-amp? I downloaded the manual and it did not indicate on how to wire 2 subwoofers. If on speaker level, is it the same? Can I just use 1 side speaker-in to connect to 1 channel in my pre-amp?

Thanks in advance

catdog2
06-07-10, 01:51 AM
Thanks Rob.

I just wanted to share my findings since I find it strange liking flat responses since the Digital drive technology is known to optimize performance for any room position and to perfectly blend the subwoofer with the main speakers.

I`m also aware that my current room with 1000 cubic meters is far away from being suitable for such gear.

One more thing ... when crossover is set to 80 Hz for all the speakers, does it make sense setting it higher for the subwoofer, let`s say to 100 or 120 as some receivers offer different crossover settings for each channel.

Yes setting the crossover higher does makes sense, but here's another option: I would suggest turning off the crossover on your DD15. You can do this by pressing the SELECT key, then the RESET key. That way the DD15 will play what the receiver is sending.

gerchy
06-07-10, 03:09 AM
Yes setting the crossover higher does makes sense, but here's another option: I would suggest turning off the crossover on your DD15. You can do this by pressing the SELECT key, then the RESET key. That way the DD15 will play what the receiver is sending.
Thanks, I already did that while AVR is doing the crossover function.

I also checked the AVR's manual and they offer the same tip: In order to take full advantage of the Dolby Digital bass redirection circuitry, we recommend setting the sub woofer's cut off frequency as high as possible.

jowicrt
06-07-10, 03:48 AM
I was wondering if Velodyne would be so nice to tell us something about the next generation of Digital Drive subs that are eminent?

barrysb
06-07-10, 10:03 AM
Yes setting the crossover higher does makes sense, but here's another option: I would suggest turning off the crossover on your DD15. You can do this by pressing the SELECT key, then the RESET key. That way the DD15 will play what the receiver is sending.

I'm wondering how this affects my situation. I have a DEQ-15R plus Def Tech LCR, all of which have a LFE input. (BTW, a 1:4 DA did the trick of providing good LFE signals to all units.) My Denon 3310 AVR knows I have a separate subwoofer but doesn't know about the LCR LFE inputs. The built-in Audyssey calibration has set the crossovers for LCR to 40 Hz and the surrounds at 110 Hz. I've set the DEQ crossover to 40 Hz. Should this crossover still be turned off?

gerchy
06-07-10, 11:18 AM
Oh, forgot to ask ... is there any break in period for new products? :)

Rob Morse
06-07-10, 01:18 PM
Thanks for the informative response, one last thing, when using 2 subwoofers w/ line level connection, can I just use the LFE output from each subwoofer to my pre-amp Left &Right? or have to use both Left & right jacks using Y-connector from 1 subwoofer to one channel of my pre-amp? I downloaded the manual and it did not indicate on how to wire 2 subwoofers. If on speaker level, is it the same? Can I just use 1 side speaker-in to connect to 1 channel in my pre-amp?

Thanks in advance

The Left and Right input jacks are there to maintain channel integrity when utilizing the subwoofer's high pass filter on a pre amp / power amp stack. If you have to subwoofers you may connect to just one of the inputs, if however you notice any problem with the subwoofer's auto on response then add the Y across both inputs. With speaker wire it is the same, only one channel needs to be connected.

Rob Morse
06-07-10, 01:22 PM
I was wondering if Velodyne would be so nice to tell us something about the next generation of Digital Drive subs that are eminent?

We are not at liberty to discuss any product that may or may not be in development, as any such product would be a work in progress and subject to design and feature change.

Rob Morse
06-07-10, 01:23 PM
Oh, forgot to ask ... is there any break in period for new products? :)

There is no required break in period.

jowicrt
06-07-10, 02:35 PM
We are not at liberty to discuss any product that may or may not be in development, as any such product would be a work in progress and subject to design and feature change.
I understand, thanks for your reply anyway.

shelly40
06-07-10, 02:38 PM
The amp on my 15 year old F-1500 finally went out......

Does Velodyne have a new amp for a sub that old ?

Shelly

m adkins
06-08-10, 12:05 AM
The Left and Right input jacks are there to maintain channel integrity when utilizing the subwoofer's high pass filter on a pre amp / power amp stack. If you have to subwoofers you may connect to just one of the inputs, if however you notice any problem with the subwoofer's auto on response then add the Y across both inputs. With speaker wire it is the same, only one channel needs to be connected.

Hi Rob!! Just took delivery of a pair of CHT 15Q last night and playing w/ the subwoofer, however, there are still some questions regarding using the unit.

Yes the Auto-on does not respond when using only 1 jack. so I need to buy a Y-connector to use both L/R? also the high pass filter of the subwoofer does not work if I connect only to 1 channel, is this really the case? do I need to connect to stereo for the high pass filter to work?

BTW do you have any pictures of the 15" woofer of the CHT-15Q just so curious of how big the magnets or frame is.

catdog2
06-08-10, 02:45 AM
I'm wondering how this affects my situation. I have a DEQ-15R plus Def Tech LCR, all of which have a LFE input. (BTW, a 1:4 DA did the trick of providing good LFE signals to all units.) My Denon 3310 AVR knows I have a separate subwoofer but doesn't know about the LCR LFE inputs. The built-in Audyssey calibration has set the crossovers for LCR to 40 Hz and the surrounds at 110 Hz. I've set the DEQ crossover to 40 Hz. Should this crossover still be turned off?

Yes, I would recommend turning off the crossover on your DEQ15 by setting the low-pass crossover knob to DIRECT.

catdog2
06-08-10, 03:04 AM
The amp on my 15 year old F-1500 finally went out......

Does Velodyne have a new amp for a sub that old ?

Shelly

Hello Shelly
Unfortunately we no longer have the amp for your F1500. Please contact us tomorrow for all your service options

Rob Morse
06-08-10, 05:08 PM
Hi Rob!! Just took delivery of a pair of CHT 15Q last night and playing w/ the subwoofer, however, there are still some questions regarding using the unit.

Yes the Auto-on does not respond when using only 1 jack. so I need to buy a Y-connector to use both L/R? also the high pass filter of the subwoofer does not work if I connect only to 1 channel, is this really the case? do I need to connect to stereo for the high pass filter to work?

BTW do you have any pictures of the 15" woofer of the CHT-15Q just so curious of how big the magnets or frame is.

Utilizing the Y across both inputs can improve the auto on/off during lower input signals. Keep in mind however, if you previously turned the subwoofer off using the remote control, then you will need to turn them on with the remote, they will not auto turn on. For the auto on feature to work, the subwoofer must have previously auto shut off.

The high pass filter should work perfectly fine with just one input connected. The left and right channel inputs are filtered separately on their way back to the output jacks and function independently from one another.

Sorry, but I do not have any photos of the driver assembly.

m adkins
06-09-10, 01:17 PM
Utilizing the Y across both inputs can improve the auto on/off during lower input signals. Keep in mind however, if you previously turned the subwoofer off using the remote control, then you will need to turn them on with the remote, they will not auto turn on. For the auto on feature to work, the subwoofer must have previously auto shut off.

The high pass filter should work perfectly fine with just one input connected. The left and right channel inputs are filtered separately on their way back to the output jacks and function independently from one another.

Sorry, but I do not have any photos of the driver assembly.


Thanks for the response, I have just hooked up my main speakers thru speaker-level into 1 channel in each subwoofer, so I was expecting that the mains will roll-off at 120hz, but I still hear significant bass output from the mains, is the 120hz high pass filtered signal clearly audible in that the main speaker will not reproduce bass below 120hz? I do not hear the difference between the direct & high-pass filtered sound, am I missing something here?

Thanks again

Rob Morse
06-09-10, 02:16 PM
Thanks for the response, I have just hooked up my main speakers thru speaker-level into 1 channel in each subwoofer, so I was expecting that the mains will roll-off at 120hz, but I still hear significant bass output from the mains, is the 120hz high pass filtered signal clearly audible in that the main speaker will not reproduce bass below 120hz? I do not hear the difference between the direct & high-pass filtered sound, am I missing something here?

Thanks again

The high pass filter only works with the line level inputs, there is no filter on the speaker level inputs. I am sorry for the confusion.

m adkins
06-09-10, 10:41 PM
The high pass filter only works with the line level inputs, there is no filter on the speaker level inputs. I am sorry for the confusion.

Thanks Rob, so if I use the line level outputs connected to the main-in of my power amp then my outputs from pre-amp to the inputs of subwoofers, where should I connect my speaker wire from the main speaker? to the power amplifier i presume? The manual did not state on how to hook up mulitple or 2 subwoofers, so I was a bit confused.

Also, when I use speaker level connection, there is an audible hum from the subwoofer, not sure what causes it. When I turn play from the CD player there is humming, when I press stop, the hum will go away. so in the presence of signal the hum goes back on. Can you advise on what to do?

Thanks again for the help.

Rob Morse
06-10-10, 10:31 AM
Thanks Rob, so if I use the line level outputs connected to the main-in of my power amp then my outputs from pre-amp to the inputs of subwoofers, where should I connect my speaker wire from the main speaker? to the power amplifier i presume? The manual did not state on how to hook up mulitple or 2 subwoofers, so I was a bit confused.

Also, when I use speaker level connection, there is an audible hum from the subwoofer, not sure what causes it. When I turn play from the CD player there is humming, when I press stop, the hum will go away. so in the presence of signal the hum goes back on. Can you advise on what to do?

Thanks again for the help.

If you are hooking up two subwoofers to separates and would like you use the high pass filter the proceed as follows:

Connect the left line level output from the pre-amp to the input on sub number 1
Connect the right line level output from the pre-amp to the input on sub number two
Connect the line level output of sub number one to the left input on your power amp
Connect the line level output of sub number two to the right input on your power amp
Connect the left and right speakers directly to your power amp


I would not utilize the speaker level inputs on the subwoofer, the line level connection I listed will result in better overall sound and reduce the chance of hums and shorts from occurring.

Timmay35
06-10-10, 03:43 PM
I have had my Svs PC12-NSB for about 1 year now. I like the sub but for 11 months it was in a 25' x 50' room with open kitchen etc. Now that I moved 1 month ago to a smaller townhouse its in a 15' x 20' room plus open kitchen it sounds stronger. It has clean deep bass but I really want to hear that tight punchy sound of mids.

I just ordered a Velodyne minivee 8, thinking it may do the the trick being smaller but more powerful and better for punchy mids (1000 watts 8" vs 350 watts 12" long throw.) I think I will put the svs in the front of the room by my Paradigm Monitor 7's. Then the minivee behind the couch opposite side of the room. Do you guys think these will work well together and fill in the gaps where each falls short? I have 2 sub preouts on my new TX-SR608. I was going to set the crossover to 80 on the receiver then maybe turn on the built in crossover on the svs and set to 60? Thinking that it will only play the deeper bass where it excels? Does this sound right?

Thanks,

Rob Morse
06-10-10, 04:48 PM
I just ordered a Velodyne minivee 8, thinking it may do the the trick being smaller but more powerful and better for punchy mids (1000 watts 8" vs 350 watts 12" long throw.) I think I will put the svs in the front of the room by my Paradigm Monitor 7's. Then the minivee behind the couch opposite side of the room. Do you guys think these will work well together and fill in the gaps where each falls short? I have 2 sub preouts on my new TX-SR608. I was going to set the crossover to 80 on the receiver then maybe turn on the built in crossover on the svs and set to 60? Thinking that it will only play the deeper bass where it excels? Does this sound right?

Thanks,

Setting your system cross over to 80 and and the SVS to 60 will limit its bass response, the connected mini-vee would then solely provide the 60-80Hz frequencies, and reinforce the SVS in the lower frequencies. Your placement seem fine, although you might also try the Mini-vee on a side wall at 90 perpendicular to the SVS. Sometimes this can better reinforce the SPL in the listening area, especially if the opening to the kitchen is at the front or back of the room. Ultimately every room is different and experimentation will yield the best results.

Patrick Murphy
06-12-10, 11:26 AM
I have the Servo 12 that has performed flawlessly for me but I'm thinking about replacing it with something more modern...or should I?

I've been looking at the DLS and DEQ lines as I don't need the auto EQ (Optimum or DD) as I have an Onkyo 707 with Audyssey MultEQ.

So I guess that it comes down to; would this be a step up?

Appreciate hearing from Servo or the subsequent F Series model owners thoughts.

Rob Morse
06-14-10, 10:26 AM
I have the Servo 12 that has performed flawlessly for me but I'm thinking about replacing it with something more modern...or should I?

I've been looking at the DLS and DEQ lines as I don't need the auto EQ (Optimum or DD) as I have an Onkyo 707 with Audyssey MultEQ.

So I guess that it comes down to; would this be a step up?

Appreciate hearing from Servo or the subsequent F Series model owners thoughts.

The Servo 12 was engineered in a day before the term home theater was used. There was no concept of the demands we place on subwoofers today with the multi-channel digital recordings. As a result the DLS and DEQ will have significantly more output. As ported subwoofers, they are excellent cinema subs, and do well with music too.

As to if the DLS or DEQ are the right sub to It comes down to what kind of listening you do now, and what your needs are now. The DLS and DEQ subwoofer lines are not as precise as the old Servo 12; the Optimum and DD series are more comparable. The question becomes are you still in need of such a precise subwoofer?

There are many opinions offered up on these forums, but only one matters...yours. I recommend taking a sample of some music or movies you are familiar with and go visit your local shop to audition the DEQ or DLS series subs. Only you can determine if they will meet your needs.

Patrick Murphy
06-14-10, 12:04 PM
Thanks, Rob.

I'll have to go and audition the subs and make my own decision.

kemiza
06-14-10, 05:22 PM
Hello Rob. Can you tell me if Velodyne sells replacement grilles for a HGS18? If not do you know any companies that repair them?

Rob Morse
06-15-10, 05:43 PM
Hello Rob. Can you tell me if Velodyne sells replacement grilles for a HGS18? If not do you know any companies that repair them?

Unfortunately we no longer stock grilles for that subwoofer. Many speaker repair shops will also repair grilles. I would try calling a few local shops. As a last resort you can always use an online store.

sofast1
06-20-10, 03:06 PM
Hello Rob. Can you tell me if Velodyne sells replacement grilles for a HGS18? If not do you know any companies that repair them?

If you can't find someone local to help you, try http://www.speakerex.com/ or http://www.speakerworldonline.com/ . You'll have to ship the grilles to them and have them shipped back to you after repair. These are not new on-line businesses, they're real stores that have been at their locations well over 30 years. You can contact them through their websites. I would try speakerex.com first, they are an authorized Velodyne repair center.

pirspilane
06-21-10, 06:20 PM
I have a few questions related to Audyssey.

First, I have my DD-18 volume set at “2”and am using a Y-splitter. When I run Audyssey, it sets the subwoofer trim at -2 dB. This frequently is not enough signal to activate the subwoofer. I know Curt recommended resetting the receiver’s subwoofer trim to “3/4ths of the way up” and then lowering the volume on the sub. But I can only lower the DD-18 volume by “1”.
So my question is, should I lower the DD-18 to “1”. If I do, what should I set the receiver to?

My second question relates to this article:
http://idisk.mac.com/mschuetze-Public/AudysseyTipsTricks.pdf
It says:
If the subwoofer has a phase control (in addition to the polarization control), set it at “0”. Phase controls on subwoofers apply "delay" at one frequency rather than the needed group delay that is frequency independent. So, it is best to just leave them at “0”.

Is this good advice? If it's true that the DD-18 applies delay at only one frequency, what is the frequency?

I have my phase set to 135 degrees since that gives me the flattest response when adjusting the DD-18 equalization. Is it better to trade off some flattening on the DD-18 equalization and let Audyssey do its thing?

Rob Morse
06-22-10, 11:20 AM
I have a few questions related to Audyssey.

First, I have my DD-18 volume set at “2”and am using a Y-splitter. When I run Audyssey, it sets the subwoofer trim at -2 dB. This frequently is not enough signal to activate the subwoofer. I know Curt recommended resetting the receiver’s subwoofer trim to “3/4ths of the way up” and then lowering the volume on the sub. But I can only lower the DD-18 volume by “1”.
So my question is, should I lower the DD-18 to “1”. If I do, what should I set the receiver to?

My second question relates to this article:
http://idisk.mac.com/mschuetze-Public/AudysseyTipsTricks.pdf
It says:


Is this good advice? If it's true that the DD-18 applies delay at only one frequency, what is the frequency?

I have my phase set to 135 degrees since that gives me the flattest response when adjusting the DD-18 equalization. Is it better to trade off some flattening on the DD-18 equalization and let Audyssey do its thing?

I understand what Curt was saying and it is good advice in most situations, but in your case you may want to turn the subwoofer volume up a touch and decrease the output gain in the receiver. Finding the balance between output and input signals will optimize the auto on/off functionality.

The instructions you reference state to calibrate the subwoofer first then use the Audyssey, this is one way of doing it. You can also set the Audyssey first and then run the DD equalization. The DD will offer more equalization in the subwoofer frequency range than the Audyssey. Ultimately you might experiment and see what yields the results you are happiest with.

The phase setting of 135 for your subwoofer is fine, if that is best for you. The referenced instructions state to set the subwoofer at 0 or 180 because that is all most subwoofers allow.

pdferguson
06-22-10, 06:46 PM
I'm looking at these two speakers for my home office stereo setup. It is in a small room (10x12), and will be for two channel music only, for listening while sitting at my computer. Right now, I have a sub/sat Polk Audio RM3000, with a passive subwoofer, and the sound is very anemic unless I really crank up the volume. The sub has a fixed 200 Hz crossover, which is part of the problem I believe, since the sub sits under a table. I will be upgrading the main speakers at the same time; I'm leaning towards the B&W XT2's because I can wall mount them as I have with the Polks. The small form factor of the 8" Velodyne subs is exactly what I'm looking for, and I'm not interested in room shaking volume.

So my question is, is the Optimum-8 worth the extra money over the MiniVee? What are the differences between them; I see the Optimum-8 has a few bells and whistles (such as the equalizer), but I'm not sure I will be tweaking the subwoofer much once I get it set up. Frankly, I'm leery of sub-components that come with their own remote control...

Are there other aspects of the Optimum-8 design that I should be considering when comparing it to the MiniVee?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

lalittle
06-22-10, 07:17 PM
Do the xlr (balanced) connections on the FSR-18 expect a -10dB or a +4dB signal?

Also, is it still advised to use a splitter into both inputs, or is connecting to just the L input fine?

The problem I'm running into this that I end up having to have my FSR-18 volume knobs VERY low -- almost to the bottom -- in order to get the correct levels. It seems like they're overly sensitive. Using only one of the two inputs would be one way to reduce the input volume a bit, but this is not enough -- I'm still well below 9 o'clock. I have a few different options, but I'm not sure which one is best.

I can use a Samson S-Convert (a phono to balanced xlr converter), which has an input volume trim on it that could be used to drop the level, but if the FSR-18 is expecting a -10dB signal on the xlr inputs (instead of the more standard xlr signal of +4dB), I'd have to turn it down quite a ways, and I'm not sure that operating in the lower end of the range is a good idea.

On the other hand, I could use straight rca to xlr adapters, which would send a -10dB signal to the xlr inputs of the subs, but this would defeat the purpose of using balanced lines.

Or I could just set the sub volume controls REALLY low, but once again, it never seems like a good idea to run gear in the very lowest areas of their ranges. On top of this, I had some issues several years ago that were solved by lowering the sub output level of the processor so that the sub volume knobs would be more in the 10 o'clock range. Am I correct in assuming that it's advised to run the FSR18 volume knobs at around 9 or 10 o'clock, and that having to set the volume knob way down around the first "dot" is not a good idea since it implies an overly strong input signal?

What's the best solution to this?

Thanks for any feedback,

Larry

Rob Morse
06-23-10, 10:31 AM
I'm looking at these two speakers for my home office stereo setup. It is in a small room (10x12), and will be for two channel music only, for listening while sitting at my computer. Right now, I have a sub/sat Polk Audio RM3000, with a passive subwoofer, and the sound is very anemic unless I really crank up the volume. The sub has a fixed 200 Hz crossover, which is part of the problem I believe, since the sub sits under a table. I will be upgrading the main speakers at the same time; I'm leaning towards the B&W XT2's because I can wall mount them as I have with the Polks. The small form factor of the 8" Velodyne subs is exactly what I'm looking for, and I'm not interested in room shaking volume.

So my question is, is the Optimum-8 worth the extra money over the MiniVee? What are the differences between them; I see the Optimum-8 has a few bells and whistles (such as the equalizer), but I'm not sure I will be tweaking the subwoofer much once I get it set up. Frankly, I'm leery of sub-components that come with their own remote control...

Are there other aspects of the Optimum-8 design that I should be considering when comparing it to the MiniVee?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

Based on your description of what you are looking for I would probably go with the Mini-Vee. The Mini-Vee is an excellent musical sub built on the legacy of the Velodyne SPL product line. It is an excellent choice for those wanting solid bass performance for a small room at a resonable price.

The Optimum's room equalization is a nice feature that can improve the overall room response, but it sounds like this is not your main audio system, and music is likely just in the background in this room. The Optimum also has more output than the Mini-Vee, not just power but actual dB output. The remote on the Optimum after setup is primarily used to switch between DSP listening modes on the subwoofer.

abba1
06-25-10, 11:46 PM
I have a question for you Velo experts out there. I recently retired my DLS 3500 for a DEQ 10. Then I got to thinking that instead of moth-balling the DLS I could use it as a second subwoofer. Here is the rest of the story...sound-wise I have three Ascend Sierra's across the front and a brand new Pioneer SC 25 (thus the reason for the DEQ model). My AV room is really small: 11 x 12 with an eight-foot ceiling. The DEQ sits between the TV and the FL speaker. Because of the size of the room the DLS would have to be in the opposite corner of the room (to the right of where I sit). For those in the know: would adding the old subwoofer to the mix be worth-while? I also read someplace to set the main subwoofer phase to ''0'' and the second to ''180.'' I realize that I am never going to know for sure until I try it, but any thoughts / suggestions / comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

catdog2
06-28-10, 04:27 AM
I have a question for you Velo experts out there. I recently retired my DLS 3500 for a DEQ 10. Then I got to thinking that instead of moth-balling the DLS I could use it as a second subwoofer. Here is the rest of the story...sound-wise I have three Ascend Sierra's across the front and a brand new Pioneer SC 25 (thus the reason for the DEQ model). My AV room is really small: 11 x 12 with an eight-foot ceiling. The DEQ sits between the TV and the FL speaker. Because of the size of the room the DLS would have to be in the opposite corner of the room (to the right of where I sit). For those in the know: would adding the old subwoofer to the mix be worth-while? I also read someplace to set the main subwoofer phase to ''0'' and the second to ''180.'' I realize that I am never going to know for sure until I try it, but any thoughts / suggestions / comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Yes, better low frequency sounds can be produced by using two (or more) subwoofers placed in appropriate locations.Yes changing the phase will also help. I would set the DLS to "0" Then use the DEQ remote while in the primary seating area and try all four phase position.

laager
06-28-10, 04:34 AM
Is there a product calculator available from Velodyne for room volumes over 10,000 sq. ft? I'm just curious as to the volume range suggested for a pair of DD-18s.

Rob Morse
06-28-10, 10:17 AM
Is there a product calculator available from Velodyne for room volumes over 10,000 sq. ft? I'm just curious as to the volume range suggested for a pair of DD-18s.

Since Velodyne product is not intended for commercial or professional use, and such large volumes are typically not found in residential homes, we do not have a calculator for rooms over 10,000 cubic feet. I would suggest giving us a call with your dimensions and application so we might be of better assistance to your specific needs.

ev666il
06-28-10, 01:09 PM
Hi Rob,

I'm having an issue with my European Velodyne DD15 which I can't quite fathom. Unfortunately, I'm forced to report the problem without being able to check it out personally as I'm out of town until Friday night, and I've been just told by my father.

Last week, we were lent a Transparent Reference Powerlink power cord to try on your player, and we temporarily put our Transparent Powerlink Plus on the Velodyne. All went perfectly fine until we had to give the Reference back to its owner and put the regular power cord back on the sub. From that very moment on, the sub stopped working altogether for no apparent reason. It just doesn't power on under any condition, and with any power cord (neither with the one that came in its package, nor with our Transparent Powerlink Plus). Switching the power button off and on again is uneffective. My father believes it's the fuse but then again, the manual says nothing about what's inside the sub and opening it would violate the warranty, IIRC.

What do you think the problem could be? Should we call the assistance? I was sort of hoping I wouldn't have to, due to prior unhappy experiences with your Italian dealer...

MrChambers
06-28-10, 04:04 PM
Good afternoon Rob, hopefully you can point me in the right direction.

I noticed a few weeks ago a buzzing sound coming from my subwoofer (which I power with a Behringer 2500 amplifier, and use an SMS-1 on. If I remove the SMS-1, and connect the amp directly to my receiver, the buzz goes away.

Any suggestions?

Rob Morse
06-29-10, 05:05 PM
Hi Rob,

I'm having an issue with my European Velodyne DD15 which I can't quite fathom. Unfortunately, I'm forced to report the problem without being able to check it out personally as I'm out of town until Friday night, and I've been just told by my father.

Last week, we were lent a Transparent Reference Powerlink power cord to try on your player, and we temporarily put our Transparent Powerlink Plus on the Velodyne. All went perfectly fine until we had to give the Reference back to its owner and put the regular power cord back on the sub. From that very moment on, the sub stopped working altogether for no apparent reason. It just doesn't power on under any condition, and with any power cord (neither with the one that came in its package, nor with our Transparent Powerlink Plus). Switching the power button off and on again is uneffective. My father believes it's the fuse but then again, the manual says nothing about what's inside the sub and opening it would violate the warranty, IIRC.

What do you think the problem could be? Should we call the assistance? I was sort of hoping I wouldn't have to, due to prior unhappy experiences with your Italian dealer...

Since the unit will not power on, there is little we can do remotely for your subwoofer. If your DD unit is under warranty then I would contact your dealer for warranty service. If it is not under warranty then we can check the fuses, which will require removing the back panel, before we resort to sending the sub in for service. Send me a PM if you need additional assistance.

Rob Morse
06-29-10, 05:12 PM
Good afternoon Rob, hopefully you can point me in the right direction.

I noticed a few weeks ago a buzzing sound coming from my subwoofer (which I power with a Behringer 2500 amplifier, and use an SMS-1 on. If I remove the SMS-1, and connect the amp directly to my receiver, the buzz goes away.

Any suggestions?

The first thing I would do is restore the factory defaults using the remote code 8-9-0. Then set up your system keeping the SMS-1 volume at 15, this represents zero gain. You will want your volume adjustments done primarily at your master volume control, the subwoofer's volume control, and to a lesser extent the gain setting in your main system controller. If the problem persists, contact me for additional support and or service.

hotrodbanshee
06-29-10, 10:27 PM
My deq-12r will be delivered thursday. I will be using it on a harman kardon avr354 receiver. After I connect the sub should I do the ezset/eq setup on the receiver first or use the eq setup on the sub first?

catdog2
06-30-10, 03:21 AM
My deq-12r will be delivered thursday. I will be using it on a harman kardon avr354 receiver. After I connect the sub should I do the ezset/eq setup on the receiver first or use the eq setup on the sub first?

I would do the DEQ12's EQ first and then do the harman kardon's. If the sub sounds too low run the DEQ12's EQ again. (Don't forget the y-adapter w/sub level around 30 on preset#3.)

soundemon
07-04-10, 03:25 PM
Good afternoon Rob, hopefully you can point me in the right direction.

I noticed a few weeks ago a buzzing sound coming from my subwoofer (which I power with a Behringer 2500 amplifier, and use an SMS-1 on. If I remove the SMS-1, and connect the amp directly to my receiver, the buzz goes away.

Any suggestions?
wow I'm having the exact same issue. Behringer EP2500, Danley DTS-10. further, sometimes the hum is there and sometimes not, but you can always hear it for about 5 seconds after signal, then sometimes it dissapears, and sometimes it remains. but it's always there if theres signal. (checked just by pausing and unpausing CDP) and turning down the overall system gain so i can hear the noise above the music.

I have done the 890 reset, and the problem remains. Also, as I lower the volume from 15 and get close to 0, the noise cuts in and out. no noise at 0, infrequent blips at 1, more frequent at 2, more frequent still at 3 etc.

pirspilane
07-04-10, 04:01 PM
The phase setting of 135 for your subwoofer is fine, if that is best for you. The referenced instructions state to set the subwoofer at 0 or 180 because that is all most subwoofers allow.

Rob, I appreciate the assistance. Regarding the instructions I referenced, they say to set the polarization at "0 or 180", not the phase. Then they go on to say that:
If the subwoofer has a phase control (in addition to the polarization control), set it at “0”. Phase controls on subwoofers apply "delay" at one frequency rather than the needed group delay that is frequency independent. So, it is best to just leave them at “0”.

So, does the phase control on my DD-18 apply delay at only one frequency (as the author cautions), or does it apply a frequency independent group delay?

obenq
07-04-10, 11:54 PM
I currently have a 7.1 receiver and use a y-splitter to use both inputs on my VRP-1200 subwoofer. I'm about to get a 7.2 receiver, but plan on still using the same single subwoofer. Is it recommended (or possible) to use a y-splitter to "sum" the 2 sub outputs from the receiver into a single RCA line and then split them out again at the sub?

soundemon
07-05-10, 03:26 PM
I currently have a 7.1 receiver and use a y-splitter to use both inputs on my VRP-1200 subwoofer. I'm about to get a 7.2 receiver, but plan on still using the same single subwoofer. Is it recommended (or possible) to use a y-splitter to "sum" the 2 sub outputs from the receiver into a single RCA line and then split them out again at the sub?
you dont need to use both inputs

sofast1
07-05-10, 06:37 PM
I currently have a 7.1 receiver and use a y-splitter to use both inputs on my VRP-1200 subwoofer. I'm about to get a 7.2 receiver, but plan on still using the same single subwoofer. Is it recommended (or possible) to use a y-splitter to "sum" the 2 sub outputs from the receiver into a single RCA line and then split them out again at the sub?

I think what Soundemon meant was continue to use the y-splitter at the sub's inputs, but not at the receiver's outputs. If you're planning to stay with one sub, why change from 7.1 to 7.2? Perhaps the money might be better spent more audibly?

soundemon
07-05-10, 08:38 PM
I think what Soundemon meant was continue to use the y-splitter at the sub's inputs, but not at the receiver's outputs. If you're planning to stay with one sub, why change from 7.1 to 7.2? Perhaps the money might be better spent more audibly?
the dual inputs on a sub are meant to be used if you're running a stereo signal. if you're just running the .1 LFE channel there is no difference between running it into one channel or using a splitter, except extra components in the signal chain.

sofast1
07-05-10, 08:49 PM
the dual inputs on a sub are meant to be used if you're running a stereo signal. if you're just running the .1 LFE channel there is no difference between running it into one channel or using a splitter, except extra components in the signal chain.

Velodyne reccomends using a y-splitter into their subs, it provides a stronger signal and avoids turning the sub up too high as well as problems with the auto on/off. It's in the owners manual of the newer models. Here's a quote from Pete;

"Don't forget the y-adapter w/sub level around 30 on preset#3"
__________________
Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208

sofast1
07-05-10, 08:58 PM
the dual inputs on a sub are meant to be used if you're running a stereo signal. if you're just running the .1 LFE channel there is no difference between running it into one channel or using a splitter, except extra components in the signal chain.

From the owner's manual;

http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/docs/63-DEQR%20Manual_Rev%20B_web.pdf

figure 2a page10

soundemon
07-05-10, 09:02 PM
I think what Soundemon meant was continue to use the y-splitter at the sub's inputs, but not at the receiver's outputs. If you're planning to stay with one sub, why change from 7.1 to 7.2? Perhaps the money might be better spent more audibly?

From the owner's manual;

http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/docs/63-DEQR%20Manual_Rev%20B_web.pdf

figure 2a page10
Fair enough, I stand corrected.

Now back to my problem! lol:p

sofast1
07-05-10, 09:10 PM
Fair enough, I stand corrected.

Now back to my problem! lol:p

I assume you've tried replacing the interconnects. It's a longshot, but it might be a ground problem. Have you tried plugging the SMS-1 into a different A.C. circuit or "ungrounding" the power cord plug?:confused:

obenq
07-06-10, 09:44 AM
I think what Soundemon meant was continue to use the y-splitter at the sub's inputs, but not at the receiver's outputs. If you're planning to stay with one sub, why change from 7.1 to 7.2? Perhaps the money might be better spent more audibly?

Thanks for the input guys. I'm upgrading and the receiver I liked just happened to be 7.2. Maybe I'll use the 2nd output someday, just curious how best to use it for now.

Rob Morse
07-06-10, 10:28 AM
Thanks for the input guys. I'm upgrading and the receiver I liked just happened to be 7.2. Maybe I'll use the 2nd output someday, just curious how best to use it for now.

As it has been suggested, connecting one of the two subwoofer outputs on your receiver to the subwoofer is all that is needed. Yes we do recommend utilizing a Y-splitter to feed both inputs on the subwoofer as it solves many problems while creating none, but it is not critically necessary. For now leave the second subwoofer output on your receiver empty.

soundemon
07-06-10, 10:31 AM
I assume you've tried replacing the interconnects. It's a longshot, but it might be a ground problem. Have you tried plugging the SMS-1 into a different A.C. circuit or "ungrounding" the power cord plug?:confused:
I have tried a large variety of balanced and single ended cables to get from the prepro thru the SMS-1 to the EP2500, all seem to display the same issue.
I'll set down to do a systematic test of all cables again to prove this to myself 100%, but each of the cables i used, when going out from prepro direct to EP2500 resulted in no noise at sub.

I havent tried lifting the ground, but its plugged into a common outlet including the pre and the amp. I have no cheater plug rite now how else could i lift the ground at the SMS-1?

Rob Morse
07-06-10, 10:34 AM
wow I'm having the exact same issue. Behringer EP2500, Danley DTS-10. further, sometimes the hum is there and sometimes not, but you can always hear it for about 5 seconds after signal, then sometimes it dissapears, and sometimes it remains. but it's always there if theres signal. (checked just by pausing and unpausing CDP) and turning down the overall system gain so i can hear the noise above the music.

I have done the 890 reset, and the problem remains. Also, as I lower the volume from 15 and get close to 0, the noise cuts in and out. no noise at 0, infrequent blips at 1, more frequent at 2, more frequent still at 3 etc.

Please have your unit's serial number and give us a call. We may have a few more questions or tests for you in order to determine if the SMS requires service. Please call 408-465-2851 M-F between 7am-3:30pm PDT.

Rob Morse
07-06-10, 06:16 PM
Rob, I appreciate the assistance. Regarding the instructions I referenced, they say to set the polarization at "0 or 180", not the phase. Then they go on to say that:
If the subwoofer has a phase control (in addition to the polarization control), set it at “0”. Phase controls on subwoofers apply "delay" at one frequency rather than the needed group delay that is frequency independent. So, it is best to just leave them at “0”.

So, does the phase control on my DD-18 apply delay at only one frequency (as the author cautions), or does it apply a frequency independent group delay?

Reversing the polarity results in a 180 degree phase shift, any other adjustment of phase is done by introducing delay. Because each frequency has a different wave length the delay is typically based off of one frequency point. In the case of the Digital Drive the phase is true at the set cross over frequency point.

eLKuRLy
07-06-10, 10:41 PM
question regarding price. What is a reasonable price for a brand new Velo DPS-12?

sofast1
07-06-10, 11:36 PM
question regarding price. What is a reasonable price for a brand new Velo DPS-12?

that's a discontinued model(non-remote control) that was produced starting in 2004, replaced by the improved DLS-4000r(with remote) which sells for about $599. If it's brand new in a sealed box $350-$375 at the most.

Rob Morse
07-07-10, 10:14 AM
question regarding price. What is a reasonable price for a brand new Velo DPS-12?

As stated the DPS 12 is no longer a current production piece. The last MSRP price for the DPS 12 was $649. The DLS-4000R and the DEQ-12R are comparable subwoofers and have MSRPs of $699 and $799 respectively. Actual store pricing may vary. For a list of authorized dealers in your area (http://www.velodyne.com/vdealer/us.aspx) or for a list of authorized online dealers (http://www.velodyne.com/vdealer/online.aspx) please check our website.

xtrips
07-08-10, 01:44 PM
Hello,

I need a Behringer ECM8000 microphone to run some tests with RTA and other programs.
But I also own a DD-18 which means I already own an OEM version of that same microphone, right?
So my question is are they any different, the retail one and the Velodyne's OEM one?
Can I use the Velodyne's mike for my measurements?
Maybe there is some calibration file I need to use with it.
Does anybody here have any info on that?

Thank you

Rob Morse
07-08-10, 02:19 PM
Hello,

I need a Behringer ECM8000 microphone to run some tests with RTA and other programs.
But I also own a DD-18 which means I already own an OEM version of that same microphone, right?
So my question is are they any different, the retail one and the Velodyne's OEM one?
Can I use the Velodyne's mike for my measurements?
Maybe there is some calibration file I need to use with it.
Does anybody here have any info on that?

Thank you

The ECM8000 and the Velodyne mic have the same pin outs. Several user's have indicated after calibration they have used the Velodyne mic for other purposes.

artex4special
07-09-10, 04:35 PM
hi,
i am having trouble tuning my hgs-12x & spl10bv. i used them both mainly for home theater. i feel as if im missing that punch i need for home theater. the decibel setting on my rotel rsx-1058 is set to 0. both subs have the gain around ten oclock. placement is diagonal on the corners of the room. im wondering if i should should just purchase a ported velodyne sub. though, i feel like i wasted my money on the two subs. what should i do???????? the room is about 15'20
thanks,
art

Rob Morse
07-10-10, 06:08 PM
hi,
i am having trouble tuning my hgs-12x & spl10bv. i used them both mainly for home theater. i feel as if im missing that punch i need for home theater. the decibel setting on my rotel rsx-1058 is set to 0. both subs have the gain around ten oclock. placement is diagonal on the corners of the room. im wondering if i should should just purchase a ported velodyne sub. though, i feel like i wasted my money on the two subs. what should i do???????? the room is about 15'20
thanks,
art

There is no need to replace your subs; both of the subwoofers you have are quite good subwoofers.

The first thing that comes to mind when you run multiple subs is to make sure the signal is split at the receiver, do not daisy chain one Velodyne into another. The reason being, the output on the HGS or SPL subwoofer incorporates a high pass filter that removes most of the low bass. This renders the second subwoofer virtually useless.

Call me on Monday so we can go over the rest of your set up to see what we can find.

m adkins
07-11-10, 08:05 AM
hi rob, I live in a tropical country and was wondering if the surrounds on your CHT 15Q models , foam surrounds? Are they now tropicalized to avoid melting the surrounds after a few years of use? This happens to almost all speakers w/ foam surrounds, or do they just look like foam surrounds but actually is a rubber surround?

thanks in advance

m adkins
07-11-10, 08:25 AM
hi rob, I live in a tropical country and was wondering if the surrounds on your CHT 15Q models , foam surrounds? Are they now tropicalized to avoid melting the surrounds after a few years of use? This happens to almost all speakers w/ foam surrounds, or do they just look like foam surrounds but actually is a rubber surround?

thanks in advance

Fleksnes74
07-11-10, 03:26 PM
Good evening.
I have a setup consisting of ha Grace m902 dac/preamp, Wavac MD-300B amplifier, Avantgarde Uno speakers (which each have a active 2x10" sub) and 2 DD-18 subs.
I wish to run the signal from the preamp to the DD-18 subs and then to the velodyne bass section so that Velodynes play from 80hz and below while the smaller Avantgarde subs takes the signal from the high-pass out on the velodynes and play from 80hz and up (to about 200hz where the horns take over).
I can not get this to work since the high-pass outputs on the DD-18 is to weak. It does not give a strong enough signal out and the velodyne subs plays weaker than the horns and the DD-18 even if I have the volume on full on the Avantgarde subs. If I use the thru-output on the Velodynes the level is fine, but then the Avantgarde subs play all the way down in frequency also which I do not want.
Is there a way to increase the output level on the Velodyne high.pass outputs? My warranty has expired so I don´t mind changing components inside if that is necessary.

Best regards,
Fleksnes

Rob Morse
07-12-10, 10:24 AM
hi rob, I live in a tropical country and was wondering if the surrounds on your CHT 15Q models , foam surrounds? Are they now tropicalized to avoid melting the surrounds after a few years of use? This happens to almost all speakers w/ foam surrounds, or do they just look like foam surrounds but actually is a rubber surround?

thanks in advance

The CHT-Q series utilizes a treated foam surround.

m adkins
07-12-10, 11:38 AM
thanks rob for the info, you mean it is designed to withstand humidity and heat for a long time?

is it also normal for the subwoofer amplifier to be reasonaby hot when in standby mode?

Rob Morse
07-12-10, 12:23 PM
thanks rob for the info, you mean it is designed to withstand humidity and heat for a long time?

is it also normal for the subwoofer amplifier to be reasonaby hot when in standby mode?

The foam may eventually break down, but not until after many years of service. The back panel may still be warm as there is still power going through the unit in standby.

Rob Morse
07-12-10, 12:30 PM
Good evening.
I have a setup consisting of ha Grace m902 dac/preamp, Wavac MD-300B amplifier, Avantgarde Uno speakers (which each have a active 2x10" sub) and 2 DD-18 subs.
I wish to run the signal from the preamp to the DD-18 subs and then to the velodyne bass section so that Velodynes play from 80hz and below while the smaller Avantgarde subs takes the signal from the high-pass out on the velodynes and play from 80hz and up (to about 200hz where the horns take over).
I can not get this to work since the high-pass outputs on the DD-18 is to weak. It does not give a strong enough signal out and the velodyne subs plays weaker than the horns and the DD-18 even if I have the volume on full on the Avantgarde subs. If I use the thru-output on the Velodynes the level is fine, but then the Avantgarde subs play all the way down in frequency also which I do not want.
Is there a way to increase the output level on the Velodyne high.pass outputs? My warranty has expired so I don´t mind changing components inside if that is necessary.

Best regards,
Fleksnes

The signal strength (voltage) should be virtually identical between the output and the thru-put. The only difference between the two outputs is a passive high pass filter that is removing the low bass. The only significant variation in signal should be the frequencies output and not the intensity.

The signal strength of the outputs is tied to the input signal supplied. If you need more signal intensity on the output, you need to increase the input signal strength. This will in turn increase the signal passed through the output jacks. You will then need to adjust the subwoofer's volume control down to compensate for the increased pre-amp signal strength.

obsi
07-12-10, 01:00 PM
Hi Rob, does the DD-18 use a foam or rubber surround? I too live in a hot, humid, country. Thanks!

Rob Morse
07-12-10, 01:49 PM
Hi Rob, does the DD-18 use a foam or rubber surround? I too live in a hot, humid, country. Thanks!

The Digital Drive series utilizes a rubberized surround.

obsi
07-12-10, 01:54 PM
Cool! No worries of crumbling in time, thanks Rob!

bigzee3
07-12-10, 08:34 PM
Just wondering if anyone could help. Have a Velodyne cht 12 hooked up to a Denon 4803 and it cuts out randomly during blu ray movies only. Sub set at around 10 o'clock and Denon boosted +6. Any ideas?

sofast1
07-12-10, 08:48 PM
Just wondering if anyone could help. Have a Velodyne cht 12 hooked up to a Denon 4803 and it cuts out randomly during blu ray movies only. Sub set at around 10 o'clock and Denon boosted +6. Any ideas?

Are you using a "y-splitter" into the sub(using both L and R inputs on the sub)? Is the power switch on the back set to "auto"?
If you're not using a "y-splitter"(you should), and the power switch on the back is set to"auto",your sub might shutting off when the input signal level is too low. Otherwise, I'd suspect the cable going from the Dennon to the sub.