The Ipod test is good.

If you go to add more bass, I would add the second sub over replacing with a bigger sub every time. The second 10 inch sub will move roughly the same air as a single 12, but will provide a larger sweet spot, reduce issues caused by a single sub in a room, and allow you to spread the bass or reinforce it in a particular listening location.

Rob.. yeah, I read the second sub makes the sweet spot larger.. that does seem like the way to go. I also decided that my fronts are too small. they are currently BIC DV62si's which are usually used as surround speakers so I just pulled the trigger on a set of DV64's... so I'll make the fronts "large" and send LFE to "both" (front and sub) and between the two it should fill the sound in better... and if I need more low end I'll add another impact-10.

once I get the gear and test this weekend I will letcha know how things are. thanks again for your time in responding to me!!

edit: just want to add how nice it is to get such good immediate support.. makes the consumer feel good about buying more of someone's product getting support like this. thanks again!

fyi, played with my system last night and with that crappy 3 piece y-cable I made it sounds so much better than with either only the left or right connected. I think it's a bit odd I have to leave my LFE channel level almost maxed out to get a decent bass signal out of the receiver but I am compensating by lowering my other levels.. normal listening level was about -33 and now it's about -27 and the bass seems to kick in a lot better like that.. I'm going to mess with it more when I get my proper y-cable and new fronts tomorrow.

fyi, played with my system last night and with that crappy 3 piece y-cable I made it sounds so much better than with either only the left or right connected. I think it's a bit odd I have to leave my LFE channel level almost maxed out to get a decent bass signal out of the receiver but I am compensating by lowering my other levels.. normal listening level was about -33 and now it's about -27 and the bass seems to kick in a lot better like that.. I'm going to mess with it more when I get my proper y-cable and new fronts tomorrow.

glad to hear its starting to sound better.

I have an SPL-1200 purchased in Dec. 2003 that recently stopped working. It turns on (blue light) when the receiver provides a signal (via RCA), but no audio is present. To troubleshoot the problem, I disconnected the receiver and connected an iPod. If the iPod volume is set high enough (approx. 75%), the sub starts working. However the sub volume control has no effect on the output. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hello,
My workhorse CT-100 has stopped working. I turned it on this morning and nothing. No sound, no buzz, nada.
Does Velodyne repair this model anymore?
Thank you,
Todd

glad to hear its starting to sound better.

got a new receiver (pioneer vsx-1020-k) and wow, the whole system sounds so much better after running their room calibration software.. the sub is finally sounding how I had hoped it would..

After reading forums and trying to educate myself about my ULD 15s4 that I just purchased (obviously used and in seemingly decent condition), I am of the impression that there might be something wrong with the servo unit on the voice coil i.e. it has become detached and rattles around when the speaker is held in hand and shaken. Through the holes on the bottom of the cone I can see that something is lose.

1- Does this sound like a detached servo/ voice coil problem?

2- Is there really nothing I can do other than send it off for an expensive repair?
or
3- is it possible to repair by removing dust cap, etc.?

Thanks,

Will

I have an SPL-1200 purchased in Dec. 2003 that recently stopped working. It turns on (blue light) when the receiver provides a signal (via RCA), but no audio is present. To troubleshoot the problem, I disconnected the receiver and connected an iPod. If the iPod volume is set high enough (approx. 75%), the sub starts working. However the sub volume control has no effect on the output. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


If the volume control has no effect on the subwoofer, and you are getting only a low output with the Ipod, then it would seem there is a problem in the electronics pack on your subwoofer. Please contact us or complete the service request (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/RMARequestForm.pdf)form and email it to the address in the instructions. I will then provide you with additional instructions.

Hello,
My workhorse CT-100 has stopped working. I turned it on this morning and nothing. No sound, no buzz, nada.
Does Velodyne repair this model anymore?
Thank you,
Todd

Please take a moment to measure dimensions of the metal plate on the back of the subwoofer, where the controls are. Then call us at 408-465-2851. There were two different amplifiers used, one would need to be repaired at a local shop of your choice, and one you could purchase a replacement for.

got a new receiver (pioneer vsx-1020-k) and wow, the whole system sounds so much better after running their room calibration software.. the sub is finally sounding how I had hoped it would..

Excellent...enjoy

Before in this section I reported the my sub quit working, turns out the Audyssey killed the sub input to much, so I tuned it up a few DB's and now its working again.

Since that sub is still working after over 10 years of abuse I'm looking to get more. I would like to get two new subs that can reach down to 18hz to fill a room that is 4000 cb ft. What are you selling these days for a room size that large?

After reading forums and trying to educate myself about my ULD 15s4 that I just purchased (obviously used and in seemingly decent condition), I am of the impression that there might be something wrong with the servo unit on the voice coil i.e. it has become detached and rattles around when the speaker is held in hand and shaken. Through the holes on the bottom of the cone I can see that something is lose.

1- Does this sound like a detached servo/ voice coil problem?

2- Is there really nothing I can do other than send it off for an expensive repair?
or
3- is it possible to repair by removing dust cap, etc.?

Thanks,

Will

I am sad to say that drivers are no longer available for these units and I have heard few stories of successful repairs to the drivers outside of replacing the surround.

Before in this section I reported the my sub quit working, turns out the Audyssey killed the sub input to much, so I tuned it up a few DB's and now its working again.

Since that sub is still working after over 10 years of abuse I'm looking to get more. I would like to get two new subs that can reach down to 18hz to fill a room that is 4000 cb ft. What are you selling these days for a room size that large?

To achieve reference level output in a room of that volume and achieve accurate playback in your desired frequency range, I would recommend two DD 15 subwoofers. (room sizing chart (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/SizingCharts/DD_Room%20Sizing%20Chart.pdf))(specifications (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/detailpdf/DD-15_Details.pdf))

I am sad to say that drivers are no longer available for these units and I have heard few stories of successful repairs to the drivers outside of replacing the surround.

Thanks for reply Rob,

so, is there anything else I can do/ anyone else that might have any ideas diy style? I know this isn't your specialty but, have you ever heard of anyone replacing the woofer with a non-oem woofer and using the power amp without the servo control?

I'm lost. I just bought this thing (obviously used with no warranty) and it sounded great. Now it's toast and... -I'm out on the streets?

Thanks for reply Rob,

so, is there anything else I can do/ anyone else that might have any ideas diy style? I know this isn't your specialty but, have you ever heard of anyone replacing the woofer with a non-oem woofer and using the power amp without the servo control?

I'm lost. I just bought this thing (obviously used with no warranty) and it sounded great. Now it's toast and... -I'm out on the streets?

You can replace the driver with a generic 15 inch driver, then replace the amp with a generic amp that does not require the servo feedback, but it wont be a Velodyne subwoofer any longer.

Rob Morse,
How close in output is a DEQ-15R compared to a DD-15? For movie watching is there a noticeable difference between the two in sound and output?

Rob Morse,
How close in output is a DEQ-15R compared to a DD-15? For movie watching is there a noticeable difference between the two in sound and output?

While I do not have any measurements to compare the two, the DD-15 should have a bit more output capability. The two subs are going to sound different as well. The DEQ is an excellent subwoofer, and the top bass-reflex design subwoofer we sell; however the sealed enclosure, driver construction, amplifier design, accelerometer/servo, and the more robust equalization system in the Digital Drive will deliver a superior sound. Although one would suspect this given the price difference between the two subwoofers, $1099 MSRP for the DEQ vs $3999 MSRP for the DD.

Has anyone replaced or modified an F1500R? I have one and I think it may be on it's last leg... It tends to surge a tad bit when turning the volume knob, I cleaned all the pots, everything looks ok to me. I wonder if I could just use the box and amp or get a new amp and different woofer to shove in there? Does Velo have a replacement amp with Auto on/off and a real power cord as an upgrade without that stupid accelerometer pic connector? I want to turn this thing into a regular sub without all that ******** in it...

Any suggestions? If no mods are worth it I can just buy another sub I guess..

Ps. I've seen better power cords on $10 dollar lamps at Target LOL! You

Has anyone replaced or modified an F1500R? I have one and I think it may be on it's last leg... It tends to surge a tad bit when turning the volume knob, I cleaned all the pots, everything looks ok to me. I wonder if I could just use the box and amp or get a new amp and different woofer to shove in there? Does Velo have a replacement amp with Auto on/off and a real power cord as an upgrade without that stupid accelerometer pic connector? I want to turn this thing into a regular sub without all that ******** in it...

Any suggestions? If no mods are worth it I can just buy another sub I guess..

Ps. I've seen better power cords on $10 dollar lamps at Target LOL! You

Velodyne does not have a replacement amplifiers for the F-1500R subwoofer. I am sorry you find the power cord that came with the unit so inadequate; we found that it was quite sufficient for the amount of current that was being used by the unit. You can have the cord modified or replaced by a service technician if you think it will make any difference.

Hi Rob,

I recently purchased an old SPL-10BV. The driver on it had just been replaced (by Velodyne) when the amp had an issue and the previous owner decided to offload it.

I had my local shop send the amp plate in to you guys for repairs and now I'm the owner of a ~10 year old sub with all parts in great working order.

Unfortunately I can't find any documentation or manuals online at all, I was hoping somebody could help me figure out the specs for the sub as well as get any insight on what driver might have been used to replace the old one.

Initially I'm going to be using the sub in 2.1 in a smaller room so I'd love any advice you could give on how I should best set it up for lower volume music listening (I live in an apartment so won't be cranking anything up very loud for the time being).

Thanks for following this thread, I wish all companies cared enough about their customers to have representatives active in online communities.

Hi Rob,

I recently purchased an old SPL-10BV. The driver on it had just been replaced (by Velodyne) when the amp had an issue and the previous owner decided to offload it.

I had my local shop send the amp plate in to you guys for repairs and now I'm the owner of a ~10 year old sub with all parts in great working order.

Unfortunately I can't find any documentation or manuals online at all, I was hoping somebody could help me figure out the specs for the sub as well as get any insight on what driver might have been used to replace the old one.

Initially I'm going to be using the sub in 2.1 in a smaller room so I'd love any advice you could give on how I should best set it up for lower volume music listening (I live in an apartment so won't be cranking anything up very loud for the time being).

Thanks for following this thread, I wish all companies cared enough about their customers to have representatives active in online communities.

Hello
You can find the user manual on our web page at http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/downloadmanual.aspx for setup please call us at 408-465-2851

Thanks

Hi Rob,

I recently purchased an old SPL-10BV. The driver on it had just been replaced (by Velodyne) when the amp had an issue and the previous owner decided to offload it.

I had my local shop send the amp plate in to you guys for repairs and now I'm the owner of a ~10 year old sub with all parts in great working order.

Unfortunately I can't find any documentation or manuals online at all, I was hoping somebody could help me figure out the specs for the sub as well as get any insight on what driver might have been used to replace the old one.

Initially I'm going to be using the sub in 2.1 in a smaller room so I'd love any advice you could give on how I should best set it up for lower volume music listening (I live in an apartment so won't be cranking anything up very loud for the time being).

Thanks for following this thread, I wish all companies cared enough about their customers to have representatives active in online communities.

Owners manuals can be downloaded in PDF form from our website: http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/downloadmanual.aspx

The key in my opinion is to ensure the the cross-over in your processor is set correctly and the subwoofer's is set to direct. The rest is just simple level balancing to find your desired mix. Enjoy.

Thanks guys, one last question... I see on the site the manual for the SPL-1000 but no SPL-10BV, is there any difference between the models or are they the same?

Thanks guys, one last question... I see on the site the manual for the SPL-1000 but no SPL-10BV, is there any difference between the models or are they the same?

They are one and the same.

Hi Curt -

I have a DLS 400R connected to my Integra DHC 40.1 and set to direct. I'm using a "Y" at the sub inputs. I've just purchased a Jolida JD 1000RC integrated stereo amp that has a bypass function. My thinking is that I'll pull the Y and connect the Integra to just the left in for use with Home Theater (bypass). I'd then connect the right in of the sub to the variable out of the Jolida for use with two channel. I'd have to switch the dial on the sub from direct to a low pass setting when playing music thru the Jolida. Does this sound right?

No, the Optimum series does not have the same eq software and osd as the DD series. The DD series is Velodyne's top of the line premier series. The Optimum is designed to provide outstanding excellent performance from a very small enclosure. If sound performance is your priority ,go with the DD. For $200, I'd still get the DD12. It would be like going from a 328 to an M3.

I have a dd12. Amazing. looking for a second one. Problem is I can't find one for the insane price I got the first one for. Argh.

Hi Curt -

I have a DLS 400R connected to my Integra DHC 40.1 and set to direct. I'm using a "Y" at the sub inputs. I've just purchased a Jolida JD 1000RC integrated stereo amp that has a bypass function. My thinking is that I'll pull the Y and connect the Integra to just the left in for use with Home Theater (bypass). I'd then connect the right in of the sub to the variable out of the Jolida for use with two channel. I'd have to switch the dial on the sub from direct to a low pass setting when playing music thru the Jolida. Does this sound right?

Curt has retired after many years of service with Velodyne.

It is not advisable to connect one Velodyne subwoofer simultaneously to two different sound systems unless you are going to use a physical A/B switch to ensure only one electrical system is connected at a time.

Hey Rob,

I currently Own a Velodyne DLS-5000R. I am looking to upgrade to something that can dig deeper, with more clarity without sacrificing output.

I really like the DLS-5000R in terms of output, but have recently been struck with the upgrade bug.

How would the optimum-12 perform compared to the DLS?

Hey Rob,

I currently Own a Velodyne DLS-5000R. I am looking to upgrade to something that can dig deeper, with more clarity without sacrificing output.

I really like the DLS-5000R in terms of output, but have recently been struck with the upgrade bug.

How would the optimum-12 perform compared to the DLS?

Hello
The Optimum-12 will play tighter and deeper than the DLS-5000R but will not match the output. To match the output and achieve the tight clear bass the DD15 would be a better fit.

Hi,
I am having knee surgery this afternoon and will be absent from this forum until Tuesday, Oct. 13th. Monday, Oct. 12th (Columbus Day) is a Velodyne holiday.
If anyone needs repair service or other questions answered by Velodyne before Tuesday, please contact Velodyne service at: service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt (928) 858-4430 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi Curt, I was talking to you last year about this time with my SMS-1 unit. When you had your surgery, I dropped the issue for a time and never really got back it. At that time, I disconnected my SMS-1 and have now removed it from my system. I have long since determined that my SMS-1 is defective and both my subs have performed flawlessly since the unit was taken out of service.

Now that I'm feeling better myself and have the time and energy to manage these things, I'd like to look into getting this unit looked at and, if it's affordable, repaired and put back into service. What are my options?

Hi Curt, I was talking to you last year about this time with my SMS-1 unit. When you had your surgery, I dropped the issue for a time and never really got back it. At that time, I disconnected my SMS-1 and have now removed it from my system. I have long since determined that my SMS-1 is defective and both my subs have performed flawlessly since the unit was taken out of service.

Now that I'm feeling better myself and have the time and energy to manage these things, I'd like to look into getting this unit looked at and, if it's affordable, repaired and put back into service. What are my options?

Curt has retired, but you may still contact product support at 408-465-2851 for any service related issues.

Hi Rob,
Are the performance numbers the same for the DEQ-15R vs. the DLS-5000R ?

From the spec sheet, they seem to have the exact same driver and amp.

I own the 5000R and am thinking of adding another 5000R or a DEQ-15R.

Thanks!

Hi Rob,
Are the performance numbers the same for the DEQ-15R vs. the DLS-5000R ?

From the spec sheet, they seem to have the exact same driver and amp.

I own the 5000R and am thinking of adding another 5000R or a DEQ-15R.

Thanks!

The performance of the DLS5000R and the DEQ-15R are very similar although they do not use the same amp or driver. The main benefits of the DEQ-15R are the equalization system, and a vastly improved user interface with a digital readout instead of counting blinking lights.

Hello again, Rob.

Is it possible to connect the DD-15 with two preamps? Currently my DD-15 is connected with my AVR via RCA inputs. Is it possible to make another connection with stereo preamp via XLR inputs?

Is there any other way to connect the sub with multiple preamps?

Thanks.

Hi Folks,

I just joined the club with a DEQ-10R, it is replacing a Definitive Tech ProSub 10 (about 7 years old that failed). I needed a replacement / upgrade (I hope it is) and bought in fairly a short time frame. I did demo the Definitive SuperCube III and was quite impressive especially with music, unfortunately where I could demo the VeloDyne I couldn't get a good listen (Fry's not the best place for checking out equipment) but I went with the Velo anyways on a lot of reading, reputation, feature set etc and to try something new (also considered, HSU, Polk M&L). I will be running with a Denon 3311 and my Pro Cinemas 100s (which may get an upgrade at some point too). Got my Y-adapter and will be setting up tomorrow looking forward to it. Can't wait. I am sure I will have plenty of questions. Thanks in advance.

Ok Folks Question #1, got thwarted right away....

I am plugging in the power cable into the back and in does not seem secure at all...in fact it seems *very* loose, it does not seat all the way in. The cord and the socket look good/normal to me.

It still seems to have ~1/8-1/16" to go..I gave it a *firm* push and no luck it does not seem to "seat"...Is this normal? or how hard do you need to push it in? or is loose the norm (and I mean pretty loose).

Thanks.

EDIT : I fired it up and it is getting power, the connection still seem loose to me, of course it won't be moving around much but it still seems loose for a subwoofer (vibration) connection.

2nd UPDATE : Just for grins I bought a cheap power cord at my local HW store and it fits much better, although it is not the quality of the Velo cord and its grounded. I am still using the Velo cord but I may contact to see if I can get a replacement.

Hey everyone,

I hope someone can offer some insight on a problem I encountered yesterday.

One of my subs is a early to mid 90s F1500. It has served me well in a variety of applications. It began duty as a two channel, music only sub. It was brought into a secondary system as the sub for a TV, with the TV speakers serving as the tops. I used it as a PC system sub for a period of time and recently, I've been experimenting with LFE sub positions throughout a 5.1 system.

Aside from some surround dry rot repair, it has been entirely flawless for over 15 years. As it is designed to do during periods of being over-driven, the amp section shuts down briefly, then after the signal has been lowered, it starts back up again. It's been functioning like that until yesterday.

Yesterday, I was measuring nearfield placement LP spls during IronMan2. I had the sub at or near max output for an extended period of time. It took several big LFE hits, opening the circuit each time. After each hit, I'd lower the level slightly,..but bigger and bigger LFE kept coming.

Then all of the sudden, it began outputting a continuous very, very loud continuous tone. I mean loud enough to make me and my wife jump up and run covering our ears! The frequency was approx. 800hz. or so. I had the AVR volume in my hand, lowering the master volume down to zero to no avail. I then got to the back of the sub and had to turn it off to kill the tone.

So, what do you think? Any simple fixes? Ihaven't had a chance to open it up yet. I had it apart a few times. Look, I know this thing is a dinosaur in contempory sub terms, but I'd like to continue to use it, not in my primary HT, but in some fashion.

Any suggestions?

fwiw, I can not speak highly enough about the long term quality of this piece

I run twin FSR18s. I knew one day I would face this. System was running fine and family was watching TV at low levels and one of them just started with a clicking noise and will not produce any output.


I removed the woofer and the coil does have resistance and when I tap on the cone, the electronics respond with a click so it certainly seems like the accelerometer is doing something. I removed the amp from my other velodyne to test on this one was surprised to hear it make its normal start up noise, then the cone started oscillating at a very low frequency and the amplitude was just getting higher. I think it would have destroyed the woofer with an over travel if I would have left it powered. I only powered it for about 5-7 seconds.

Because I am electronically inclined and Velodyne no longer services these subs and I simply LOVE them, I am hoping to find someone that either knows the inner workings or someone from Velodyne that is willing to throw me a bone and point me in the right direction. I am confident Velodyne has seen this exact symptom and I just cannot be sure if this is circuit related or accelerometer related. Maybe the accelerometer has come loose in the driver?

I have done plenty of electronic repairs but have to better understand what is happening. I kind of assume the noise I hear on start up is when the cone moves to calibrate the sensor and or make sure things are working right. I do not think the actual motor is a problem.

I did notice the amp sections are different for the 2 subs. the problem sub has a near non-serviceable Al case that I will have to bend open. The other has a perforated case where things can breathe better.

Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated. Velodyne, I am hoping you guys can keep me loyal to your product with a little help here.

Hello again, Rob.

Is it possible to connect the DD-15 with two preamps? Currently my DD-15 is connected with my AVR via RCA inputs. Is it possible to make another connection with stereo preamp via XLR inputs?

Is there any other way to connect the sub with multiple preamps?

Thanks.

Velodyne does not recommend doing this.

Hi Folks,

I just joined the club with a DEQ-10R, it is replacing a Definitive Tech ProSub 10 (about 7 years old that failed). I needed a replacement / upgrade (I hope it is) and bought in fairly a short time frame. I did demo the Definitive SuperCube III and was quite impressive especially with music, unfortunately where I could demo the VeloDyne I couldn't get a good listen (Fry's not the best place for checking out equipment) but I went with the Velo anyways on a lot of reading, reputation, feature set etc and to try something new (also considered, HSU, Polk M&L). I will be running with a Denon 3311 and my Pro Cinemas 100s (which may get an upgrade at some point too). Got my Y-adapter and will be setting up tomorrow looking forward to it. Can't wait. I am sure I will have plenty of questions. Thanks in advance.

Thank you for choosing a Velodyne subwoofer. Should you need support we will be here or you can contact us at 408-465-2851. Enjoy your new subwoofer.

Ok Folks Question #1, got thwarted right away....

I am plugging in the power cable into the back and in does not seem secure at all...in fact it seems *very* loose, it does not seat all the way in. The cord and the socket look good/normal to me.

It still seems to have ~1/8-1/16" to go..I gave it a *firm* push and no luck it does not seem to "seat"...Is this normal? or how hard do you need to push it in? or is loose the norm (and I mean pretty loose).

Thanks.

EDIT : I fired it up and it is getting power, the connection still seem loose to me, of course it won't be moving around much but it still seems loose for a subwoofer (vibration) connection.

2nd UPDATE : Just for grins I bought a cheap power cord at my local HW store and it fits much better, although it is not the quality of the Velo cord and its grounded. I am still using the Velo cord but I may contact to see if I can get a replacement.

Please contact us at 408-465-2851 with your product serial number. We would like to log your issue for our quality control and will be happy to send a new power cord for you.

Hey everyone,

I hope someone can offer some insight on a problem I encountered yesterday.

One of my subs is a early to mid 90s F1500. It has served me well in a variety of applications. It began duty as a two channel, music only sub. It was brought into a secondary system as the sub for a TV, with the TV speakers serving as the tops. I used it as a PC system sub for a period of time and recently, I've been experimenting with LFE sub positions throughout a 5.1 system.

Aside from some surround dry rot repair, it has been entirely flawless for over 15 years. As it is designed to do during periods of being over-driven, the amp section shuts down briefly, then after the signal has been lowered, it starts back up again. It's been functioning like that until yesterday.

Yesterday, I was measuring nearfield placement LP spls during IronMan2. I had the sub at or near max output for an extended period of time. It took several big LFE hits, opening the circuit each time. After each hit, I'd lower the level slightly,..but bigger and bigger LFE kept coming.

Then all of the sudden, it began outputting a continuous very, very loud continuous tone. I mean loud enough to make me and my wife jump up and run covering our ears! The frequency was approx. 800hz. or so. I had the AVR volume in my hand, lowering the master volume down to zero to no avail. I then got to the back of the sub and had to turn it off to kill the tone.

So, what do you think? Any simple fixes? Ihaven't had a chance to open it up yet. I had it apart a few times. Look, I know this thing is a dinosaur in contempory sub terms, but I'd like to continue to use it, not in my primary HT, but in some fashion.

Any suggestions?

fwiw, I can not speak highly enough about the long term quality of this piece

The Foundation series subwoofers were designed and manufactured in a time when todays dedicated LFE tracks, especially the hot-mix tracks found on many modern movies, were never concieved of. These older subs can have difficulties handling the load, especially when you drive the sub at near max output. Please contact customer service at 408-465-2851 so we can go over your options with you.

Please contact us at 408-465-2851 with your product serial number. We would like to log your issue for our quality control and will be happy to send a new power cord for you.

Thanks Rob, Will do.

I run twin FSR18s. I knew one day I would face this. System was running fine and family was watching TV at low levels and one of them just started with a clicking noise and will not produce any output.


I removed the woofer and the coil does have resistance and when I tap on the cone, the electronics respond with a click so it certainly seems like the accelerometer is doing something. I removed the amp from my other velodyne to test on this one was surprised to hear it make its normal start up noise, then the cone started oscillating at a very low frequency and the amplitude was just getting higher. I think it would have destroyed the woofer with an over travel if I would have left it powered. I only powered it for about 5-7 seconds.

Because I am electronically inclined and Velodyne no longer services these subs and I simply LOVE them, I am hoping to find someone that either knows the inner workings or someone from Velodyne that is willing to throw me a bone and point me in the right direction. I am confident Velodyne has seen this exact symptom and I just cannot be sure if this is circuit related or accelerometer related. Maybe the accelerometer has come loose in the driver?

I have done plenty of electronic repairs but have to better understand what is happening. I kind of assume the noise I hear on start up is when the cone moves to calibrate the sensor and or make sure things are working right. I do not think the actual motor is a problem.

I did notice the amp sections are different for the 2 subs. the problem sub has a near non-serviceable Al case that I will have to bend open. The other has a perforated case where things can breathe better.

Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated. Velodyne, I am hoping you guys can keep me loyal to your product with a little help here.

Since the amps are different, swapping them between subs may not tell us everything. If the workin amp was connected to the non-working driver, but the cabinet was not sealed shut, the resulting air leak can cause the driver to oscillate. It could be there is an electronics issue in play.

If you call us at 408-465-2851 we can discuss you options. We do still service the FSR-18 amplifier sections.

The Foundation series subwoofers were designed and manufactured in a time when todays dedicated LFE tracks, especially the hot-mix tracks found on many modern movies, were never concieved of. These older subs can have difficulties handling the load, especially when you drive the sub at near max output. Please contact customer service at 408-465-2851 so we can go over your options with you.

Rob,
I do appreciate the response, however I do know the sub wasn't designed for the contemporary LFE associated with current releases. I'm curious about using driver with an outboard amp, or something creative.

Anyone ever attempt something of this nature?

Any positive results?

Thanks

Velodyne does not recommend doing this.
Thanks, Rob.
So there is no other way except for psychical A-B switch?
Any pros/cons of using the switch?
I hear the new DD series would have this option ... true? :)

Since the amps are different, swapping them between subs may not tell us everything. If the workin amp was connected to the non-working driver, but the cabinet was not sealed shut, the resulting air leak can cause the driver to oscillate. It could be there is an electronics issue in play.

If you call us at 408-465-2851 we can discuss you options. We do still service the FSR-18 amplifier sections.



Rob, thanks for the reply. I have been in contact with Pete on the matter. Since the odd clicking noise, I have removed the amp section and inspected thoroughly including removal of a few suspect mosfets and nothing was indicating a problem though I did not remove any filter caps for out of circuit testing.

I reinstalled the board on a whim and it worked perfect, powering up fine, and took input. I decided to bolt the rest up and give it a run. When I reinstalled the amp plate with all the screws in the amp and such, I now have a loud humm in the 100-200hx area maybe. This occurs the second you touch the power button. It does not wait, it just cranks off like this.

I am wondering about testing of the accelerometer (we work with them) or what you think if this new sounds? I just cannot think the driver itself is bad but not real sure how you link the accelerometer with the amp section. I wanted to remove the ribbon cable connecting the preamp and power amp to see if the noise was still present but was advised that it would actually make more noise. I was a little confused at at point because I figured the preamp board simply output final signal to the power amp and it did what it was told.

Can you advise or possibly direction on accelerometer testing? If I have a model number, I can spec it and determine if it is good I guess. Still a little baffled. No worries about sending the thing to you, I just like to mess with this stuff and would like to learn what has happened to my sub and why it went from clicking, to working fine, to loud hum....

Thanks

UPDATE: after some testing with it's twin here, I was able to definitively determine that the amplifier is the problem in this situation. I am not real sure why the clicking noise went away and worked, then started in with the humming noise.
I swapped out only the amp section of my other unit into this one with a sealed cabinet and it ran fine though did require a bit higher gain than my other one.

I guess my only question right now is what is the common failure points in these amps? The caps are certainly testing in circuit ok (that does not mean much) and other components are ok. The bridge was removed and tested good. Do the caps commonly cause this issue or are there other players here? I am still suspecting a couple of mosfets that I have not removed yet but just not sure yet.

Rob,
I do appreciate the response, however I do know the sub wasn't designed for the contemporary LFE associated with current releases. I'm curious about using driver with an outboard amp, or something creative.

Anyone ever attempt something of this nature?

Any positive results?

Thanks

It is extremely difficult to re-purpose this driver due to the accelerometer/servo feedback circuit.

Thanks, Rob.
So there is no other way except for psychical A-B switch?
Any pros/cons of using the switch?
I hear the new DD series would have this option ... true? :)

The only negative to a physical a/b switch is the addition of another connection, I believe this is a very minor issue.

I do not have any formalized information on the DD plus with regards to any ability to connect the single subwoofer to multiples systems without the use of an A/B switch.

UPDATE: after some testing with it's twin here, I was able to definitively determine that the amplifier is the problem in this situation. I am not real sure why the clicking noise went away and worked, then started in with the humming noise.
I swapped out only the amp section of my other unit into this one with a sealed cabinet and it ran fine though did require a bit higher gain than my other one.

I guess my only question right now is what is the common failure points in these amps? The caps are certainly testing in circuit ok (that does not mean much) and other components are ok. The bridge was removed and tested good. Do the caps commonly cause this issue or are there other players here? I am still suspecting a couple of mosfets that I have not removed yet but just not sure yet.

Given the age of the units any number of components could be the source of the problem, since I am not a repair technician it would be pointless for me to speculate. We would simply replace the entire amp module board and update the controller board, not worrying about individual components.

It is extremely difficult to re-purpose this driver due to the accelerometer/servo feedback circuit.

Extremely dificult,....right up my alley! I'll let you know how it turns out.

I did speak with CS, and had an amusing, very nice conversation. Additionally, I was offered some avenues to take and promised a phone call from a tech, which I've yet to receive.

Thank you, I've always liked your products. I feel as if there are many more options availed to the consumer today, as was not the ase when I purchased it.

Thanks, I'll re-purpose and let you know.

Hi All, I didn't see a Velodyne Owner's Thread, so I'm assuming this is the spot to chat about them?

Anyways, I have been using a Velodyne CT-100 in my bedroom setup with JBL Studio speakers, and love it! I'm rather inexperienced with not much to compare to other than an Infinity PS-10, but this sub is great so far.

Now, I dismantled my living room speaker/sub/receiver setup, and am starting to gather things up. First deal I found is a sub...the Velodyne SPL-1000, a small sub with a 750 Watt RMS Class D amp. There is not a ton of reviews out there, but I see nothing but amazing things about it. Anyone have one? I'm pretty excited, even though I won't be able to hook it up for awhile, until I get the receiver/other speakers.

I suppose what I'm wondering about is this: the CT-100 has "just" a 150 Watt amp and is much much bigger than the little SPL-1000. The SPL-1000 has a 750 Watt amp and is smaller. How does that all work? Seems to me, the difference in amp size is going to be ridiculous. I can't imagine a sub being "louder" or more powerful than the CT-100, but again I have little experience with what most would consider "good" subs. Maybe I am in for a pleasant surprise!

Hi All, I didn't see a Velodyne Owner's Thread, so I'm assuming this is the spot to chat about them?

Anyways, I have been using a Velodyne CT-100 in my bedroom setup with JBL Studio speakers, and love it! I'm rather inexperienced with not much to compare to other than an Infinity PS-10, but this sub is great so far.

Now, I dismantled my living room speaker/sub/receiver setup, and am starting to gather things up. First deal I found is a sub...the Velodyne SPL-1000, a small sub with a 750 Watt RMS Class D amp. There is not a ton of reviews out there, but I see nothing but amazing things about it. Anyone have one? I'm pretty excited, even though I won't be able to hook it up for awhile, until I get the receiver/other speakers.

I suppose what I'm wondering about is this: the CT-100 has "just" a 150 Watt amp and is much much bigger than the little SPL-1000. The SPL-1000 has a 750 Watt amp and is smaller. How does that all work? Seems to me, the difference in amp size is going to be ridiculous. I can't imagine a sub being "louder" or more powerful than the CT-100, but again I have little experience with what most would consider "good" subs. Maybe I am in for a pleasant surprise!

You may not find many reviews on the SPL-1000 because depending on which version you picked up, the subwoofer could be as much as 9-10 years old. The original SPL was replaced by the SPL series II which became the MiniVee (current production).

The SPL series subwoofer is a sealed subwoofer. This results in a smaller cabinet, and tighter bass response. The draw back is it requires more power to achieve similar output. (more information on subwoofer design (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subdesign.aspx))

Finally the thing to consider about amplifier power is you must double your power to equal 3dB gain in signal, which is slightly louder. So wattage is typically a very poor method for comparing amplifiers.

Overall the SPL series is considered an significant improvement over the CT series. Enjoy.

You may not find many reviews on the SPL-1000 because depending on which version you picked up, the subwoofer could be as much as 9-10 years old. The original SPL was replaced by the SPL series II which became the MiniVee (current production).

The SPL series subwoofer is a sealed subwoofer. This results in a smaller cabinet, and tighter bass response. The draw back is it requires more power to achieve similar output. (more information on subwoofer design (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subdesign.aspx))

Finally the thing to consider about amplifier power is you must double your power to equal 3dB gain in signal, which is slightly louder. So wattage is typically a very poor method for comparing amplifiers.

Overall the SPL series is considered an significant improvement over the CT series. Enjoy.

Hi, thanks for all of your input, I appreciate it. I actually went and checked this out, it was manufactured in Dec. 2002, so about 8 years old. It looks brand new and he said it had very little use.

Could you possibly expand a bit if you have time regarding your 3rd paragraph. I am not sure I follow exactly. You say that wattage is not a good method of comparing subs, but I don't fully get what you meant in the previous sentence.

Thanks for your input!

Hi, thanks for all of your input, I appreciate it. I actually went and checked this out, it was manufactured in Dec. 2002, so about 8 years old. It looks brand new and he said it had very little use.

Could you possibly expand a bit if you have time regarding your 3rd paragraph. I am not sure I follow exactly. You say that wattage is not a good method of comparing subs, but I don't fully get what you meant in the previous sentence.

Thanks for your input!

Wattage or power does not effect the volume on a linear scale. Doubling the power does not double the volume, rather it creates a slight change in volume (3dB). Wattage comes into play with its ability to do the work of moving the driver. Often people mistakenly think that because one amplifier has so much more power that the unit is going to be much louder than their old unit. This is not the case. This misconception is why it is often a poor spec for comparing units.

Hey Rob, hopefully u can guide me the right way....i have a F1500 which i have owned since 1992, about almost 2 years ago it stopped working, before it went, i had the woofer re-coned at the speraker doctor, came out great, got it back, rocking like new, about a year later, i heard a mild static noise, and the F1500 stopped working, i checked everything, light goes on,everything seems nomal..i was told that the servo in the woofer went and cannot be repaired. really missed the Velo as i am using an ED sub until i can replace it with another 15 incher to fill my 3500 SQ LR. I do not know if shipping it back you can repair an oldie like this one as it is looking like a new purchase....

Question : DEQ-10R
IF/When I unplug the unit, does it lose all its settings..i.e. do I need to re-EQ it?

Hey Rob, hopefully u can guide me the right way....i have a F1500 which i have owned since 1992, about almost 2 years ago it stopped working, before it went, i had the woofer re-coned at the speraker doctor, came out great, got it back, rocking like new, about a year later, i heard a mild static noise, and the F1500 stopped working, i checked everything, light goes on,everything seems nomal..i was told that the servo in the woofer went and cannot be repaired. really missed the Velo as i am using an ED sub until i can replace it with another 15 incher to fill my 3500 SQ LR. I do not know if shipping it back you can repair an oldie like this one as it is looking like a new purchase....

Please call customer service to discuss your options. 408-465-2851

Question : DEQ-10R
IF/When I unplug the unit, does it lose all its settings..i.e. do I need to re-EQ it?

No, the memory in all of our subwoofers is non-volatile, it will retain your settings until you enter the restore defaults code or overwrite them.

Oh I guess I should chime in with something that you all already probably know.

I am very happy with the DEQ-10R paired with my Denon AVR-3311ci, I EQed the Velo first and then the AVR with 8 point audyessy Multi-EQ XT ... very happy with both music and movies. I did hit the movie preset while watching Ironman 2 ... :) oh and of course Dark Night :) :) :)

thanks for the help!

Oh I guess I should chime in with something that you all already probably know.

I am very happy with the DEQ-10R paired with my Denon AVR-3311ci, I EQed the Velo first and then the AVR with 8 point audyessy Multi-EQ XT ... very happy with both music and movies. I did hit the movie preset while watching Ironman 2 ... :) oh and of course Dark Night :) :) :)

thanks for the help!

I am glad to hear you are enjoying your Velodyne Subwoofer.

Are these the same? I see some sellers use 3500r and others use 3500rb. Thanks.

Are these the same? I see some sellers use 3500r and others use 3500rb. Thanks.

Yes, The DLS3500R may have the B designation on the end of the model number printed on the serial number tag on the back of the subwoofer. This indicates the unit is black.

Which current Velodyne subwoofer is the SPL-1200R comparable to?

Which current Velodyne subwoofer is the SPL-1200R comparable to?

The SPL-1200R was replaced by the Optimum 12 (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/series.aspx?seriesid=1202)

According to the spec sheet, the DD-18 can play down to 14Hz. If a single DD-18 can play down to 14Hz, can two DD-18s, together, play below 14Hz? If so, how much lower?

Is there a big difference between the SPL-1200R and Optimum 12? If so, what?

Is there a big difference between the SPL-1200R and Optimum 12? If so, what?

The Optimum features a completely new cabinet design, improved user feedback, a more powerful amplifier, and a new driver with more output. The Optimum shares the same room equalization software as the SPL-R.

Trying to decide if I need to spend the extra money on the Optimum 12, but I think not when I can buy the SPL-1200R used for $725.00 or less.

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?homesubw&1293820941&/Velodyne-SPL-1200R-Great-subwo

According to the spec sheet, the DD-18 can play down to 14Hz. If a single DD-18 can play down to 14Hz, can two DD-18s, together, play below 14Hz? If so, how much lower?

The short answer is no, the frequency response of one driver is the frequency response of two drivers. The more complex answer is maybe, depending on placement. If the two subwoofers are stacked or placed next to one another so they can load the room together it is possible you could gain a small increase in the frequency response. But we are talking about the 13-13.5Hz response range.

Adding a second subwoofer will provide other more noticeable benefits. Check out our Velo Lounge article on multiple subwoofers (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/mutisubs.aspx) for more details.

I currently am using an old V-1012-B (from 1993) that was a hand-me-down that I received several years ago. This sub is the last piece of my 5.1 setup that I am considering upgrading, this is in a room that is 13'x15' and 8.5' ceiling.

I am wondering if it is even possible to get a noticeable upgrade of my old Velodyne for around $200 to maybe $300. Would the Impact Series be a downgrade for me, other than amp power? Do I need to go to at least the DLS-R Series for an upgrade, and would it be noticeable? For what it's worth, this setup is for mainly home theater.

Any info would be appreciated.

hi all, this is my first post here

today i bought a velodyne impact 10" to go with my definitive technology procinema 600 package and onkyo txsr508

i found the 8" sub that came with the def tec package a little lacking so i decided to upgrade

i opted for the 10" as opposed to the 12" because i thought it would be a better match for my small satellites

my question though is 150hz too high to set the crossover? or should the impact 10 be able to handle the higher frequency?

the reason i have it set to 150hz is because this is what audyssey EQ sets as the roll-off point for my speakers

i guess what i'm trying to figure out is would it be better to lower the crossover to 120hz even though my satellites are running out of puff and audyssey wont apply any correction under its detected roll-off point (150hz), or should i leave it at 150hz because the impact10 should be able to handle it?

it doesn't sound too bad to me at 150hz, a little localised maybe, but i value any more opinions :)

edit: i should add that i can only choose between 120hz and 150hz.. there is nothing in between

I currently am using an old V-1012-B (from 1993) that was a hand-me-down that I received several years ago. This sub is the last piece of my 5.1 setup that I am considering upgrading, this is in a room that is 13'x15' and 8.5' ceiling.

I am wondering if it is even possible to get a noticeable upgrade of my old Velodyne for around $200 to maybe $300. Would the Impact Series be a downgrade for me, other than amp power? Do I need to go to at least the DLS-R Series for an upgrade, and would it be noticeable? For what it's worth, this setup is for mainly home theater.

Any info would be appreciated.

The DLS-R and DEQ series subwoofers would be the comparable replacements to what you currently have.

hi all, this is my first post here

today i bought a velodyne impact 10" to go with my definitive technology procinema 600 package and onkyo txsr508

i found the 8" sub that came with the def tec package a little lacking so i decided to upgrade

i opted for the 10" as opposed to the 12" because i thought it would be a better match for my small satellites

my question though is 150hz too high to set the crossover? or should the impact 10 be able to handle the higher frequency?

the reason i have it set to 150hz is because this is what audyssey EQ sets as the roll-off point for my speakers

i guess what i'm trying to figure out is would it be better to lower the crossover to 120hz even though my satellites are running out of puff and audyssey wont apply any correction under its detected roll-off point (150hz), or should i leave it at 150hz because the impact10 should be able to handle it?

it doesn't sound too bad to me at 150hz, a little localised maybe, but i value any more opinions :)

edit: i should add that i can only choose between 120hz and 150hz.. there is nothing in between

Audyssey is a nice system to give you starting points for your various settings, but do not be afraid to adjust from their starting points. You should experiment and set the crossover point at what ever frequency sounds best to you.

PS Don't forget to go back to your LFE output level in the receiver and adjust it to between 0dB and +5dB. Audyssey has a tendency to drop the LFE gain ridiculously low, requiring you to drive the subwoofers amp much louder than it should be. This causes extra heat which can break down electronic components faster, and limits your amplifier head room for demanding bass passages that can cause popping or distortion.

The DLS-R and DEQ series subwoofers would be the comparable replacements to what you currently have.

I found a CHT-12 locally and was comparing it to the DLS-4000R, and their specifications look pretty similar to me.

Is the CHT-12 basically an older version of the newer DLS-4000R? Are they comparable in performance?

I found a CHT-12 locally and was comparing it to the DLS-4000R, and their specifications look pretty similar to me.

Is the CHT-12 basically an older version of the newer DLS-4000R? Are they comparable in performance?

The CHT series would be similar to the DLSR series.

Rob,

Seems you frequent this area, so I've decided to post here where it is most relevant.

I spoke with you and sent in my minty new 2009 SMS-1 for servicing when upon the first 30 seconds of plugging it into my system crap-tastic gurgling noises came from sub when scenes would play.

After you took delivery of it, I spoke with Pete at Velodyne CS on the phone and he said the tech couldn't replicate the problem. I happened to make a YouTube video of it on the bench (watch?v=6NItClfexJs). He said the lead tech then got a chance to watch it. Velodyne then sent me back a replacement unit (an '08 model). The work order says they couldn't confirm the problem. Well, the techs either need their eye's checked or are hard of hearing, because my new unit does the same exact thing. I'm not making this up. I'm not the only one with this issue.

Just an update on this. I was basically told that my issue was never recreated at the factory (paraphrasing here). I never heard any more. However, my issue continues with weird noises and distortions coming from the sub connected to the SMS-1. I haven't had a chance to play with it to further understand the issue, but I'm hoping to some time this week. I plan to connect the unit in a different way to see if the issue goes away or not. Needless to say, at this point I'm a little disappointed.

and..

I'm getting little sounding pops from my sub when I use sms-1...When I'm watching a movie that's when I get the popping sounds.

It's either a dithering issue with the A/D or whatever...it doesn't matter. It sounds like junk. This unit is replacing a DCX2496 (That I put back into PA service) that had no problem what so ever performing the exact same operation. The fact that I paid $400 for this unit for which I haven't been able to enjoy and gladly paid for the return shipping, only to have the techs say CND customer issue on the DUT, is a little perturbing to say the least.

I'm making the issue a little more public because it's no longer a benign occurance. Others are experiencing the same problem...I'm expecting a little more effort from Velodyne for resolve. Please, fix the problem and their won't be an issue.

-Radian

Rob,

Seems you frequent this area, so I've decided to post here where it is most relevant.

I spoke with you and sent in my minty new 2009 SMS-1 for servicing when upon the first 30 seconds of plugging it into my system crap-tastic gurgling noises came from sub when scenes would play.

After you took delivery of it, I spoke with Pete at Velodyne CS on the phone and he said the tech couldn't replicate the problem. I happened to make a YouTube video of it on the bench (watch?v=6NItClfexJs). He said the lead tech then got a chance to watch it. Velodyne then sent me back a replacement unit (an '08 model). The work order says they couldn't confirm the problem. Well, the techs either need their eye's checked or are hard of hearing, because my new unit does the same exact thing. I'm not making this up. I'm not the only one with this issue.



and..



It's either a dithering issue with the A/D or whatever...it doesn't matter. It sounds like junk. This unit is replacing a DCX2496 (That I put back into PA service) that had no problem what so ever performing the exact same operation. The fact that I paid $400 for this unit for which I haven't been able to enjoy and gladly paid for the return shipping, only to have the techs say CND customer issue on the DUT, is a little perturbing to say the least.

I'm making the issue a little more public because it's no longer a benign occurance. Others are experiencing the same problem...I'm expecting a little more effort from Velodyne for resolve. Please, fix the problem and their won't be an issue.

-Radian

I will not disagree that there have been a few individuals that have experienced a similar complaint. I have been monitoring the SMS-1 user thread as well. However, we have had multiple Engineers and Technicians go over the handful of units that have been sent in, and despite trying everything we can think of, not once have we been able to duplicate any issue. Nor have we been able to find any evidence of the unit not functioning properly.

It is entirely possible there is something we have been yet unable to find, or it is just as likely some strange scenario of settings and equipment is occurring that we are not duplicating here. Some of those that have complained of noises have been able to eliminate the noise by making adjustments to their settings, some simply by swapping the unit out.

I would be happy to review your settings. Would you please take a photo of your SMS-1 setting on the TV screen. Would you please send that photo along with your processors LFE output level, cross-over settings, along with a photo of your wiring going into the back of the SMS-1 to me at techhelp@velodyne.com.

We want to resolve your issue.

FWIW, I have had three different SMS-1's in my system over the past years (including a 2009 model) and never had any SMS-1 induced noise issues.

Rob,
When will the Digital Drive Plus subwoofer specs be posted to the Velodyne website?

Hi, i just bought a VELODYNE DD-18 how do i make this sub hit very low i have a pioneer vsx92 do i need to go into the settings if so can someone lead me to the right direction.THANKS

Rob,
When will the Digital Drive Plus subwoofer specs be posted to the Velodyne website?

Information on the Digital Drive Plus will be posted once the subwoofer is ready to ship. While that specific date is unknown, it is very soon.

Hi, i just bought a VELODYNE DD-18 how do i make this sub hit very low i have a pioneer vsx92 do i need to go into the settings if so can someone lead me to the right direction.THANKS

The DD-18 will hit low if you provide it low signal. Once you set up your receiver's speaker settings, and run either the Auto EQ or Manual EQ on the subwoofer you should be good to go. If you need additional help setting up your subwoofer please contact your Velodyne dealer or our customer service department at 408-465-2851 (M-F 7am-3:30 PDT).

Rob-

I have a HGS-15 Series II that I've had since new... the amp in this thing has already been replaced once by Velodyne (a few years back, at my expense), and it looks like I might need to do this again.

The problem is if the amp is running long enough (1-2hrs on my latest pass), the driver starts to emit a rattle-like sound (not a popping sound) at almost any volume level that shadows the signal (not loud, but it's definitely there). If I leave the amp off for a period of time, the problem goes away. The sub is rarely used (only used for multi-ch SACD content or Blu-ray/DVD, etc)... and the sub is *never* driven hard or abused. (I already have a pair of bi-amped NHT VT-2.4 towers to handle most of the bass, just not the subsonic stuff that the Velodyne can deliver)

I really can't understand what's going on with these HGS amps... possibly having two of these amps replaced in a matter of a few years is totally unacceptable given what these high-end servo subs cost. Maybe you can fill me (all of us) in on the following:

- Are there known problems with the HGS series amps (even in a Series II sub, which is what mine is)?
- If this is an amp issue, can you share what the issues are, and if there's a way to possibly prevent/correct this in my current amp?
- If I need another new amp, how do I know the new amp won't have the same problem in a year or two (or another problem for that matter)?
- Finally, do I have to pay yet again for another repl amp? I already paid once, and it seems like I only got maybe 2-3 years out of the last repl...

Thanks in advance for your help... sure hope we can somehow get to root-cause on this.

Mike

The DD-18 will hit low if you provide it low signal. Once you set up your receiver's speaker settings, and run either the Auto EQ or Manual EQ on the subwoofer you should be good to go. If you need additional help setting up your subwoofer please contact your Velodyne dealer or our customer service department at 408-465-2851 (M-F 7am-3:30 PDT).

Ok so on my receiver settings for sub should i pick pluse or yes and my speakers to small or larg i have klipsch speakers RF-83 RF-63 RC-64.THANKS

To aide others that may be experiencing what appears to be an issue with the SMS-1, I'm providing links to YouTube videos of how the problem manifests itself to the listener and a bench test of the unit:


watch?v=yuFlPNM1HVo


watch?v=6NItClfexJs

redeye_091776 -- Your problem sounds very abnormal. Are you sure you have your HGS-15 hooked up, and setup, correctly? The gain control on the sub's amp should be set to about 30% to 40% of its maximum position, and it should be connected to your AVR's "SW Pre-Out" connector (or equivalent).

Some of the problem might be associated with you're turning the sub's amp On and Off repeatedly (especially if your AVR is already turned on). I have a very old Velodyne sub (a 1987 ULD-15). Its amplifier has only rarely been turned Off since it was new. It has been running continuously for the last 32 years with absolutely no problems (it stays On even when my AVR is turned Off -- in its "Standby" mode). Some electronics react poorly to being repeatedly turned On & Off, due to internal power surges which can occur during the act of being switched.

NOTE: The power drain on sub-woofer amps is very low, with no audio input.

If you have your audio system set up correctly, there should be no problem running your sub for all your audio use. If you listen to a lot music, you can disable the sub's audio, if you want to, by using a different choice of settings on your AVR. For listening to TV or CDs, I use the Stereo, "Pure Direct" mode on my AVR, which does not send any signal to my sub and plays my R/L speakers full range.

You need to contact Velodyne directly (M-F, 7:00AM to 3:30PM, PDT) to discuss the correct setup for your HGS-15.

CT-

Thanks for all of the suggestions... and yes, many of the things you mention are not issues with my rig. My volume on the HGS is (and has been) set to the 9 o'clock position for literally years... the sub is of course connected to the sub-out conn on my receiver. The sub is only used when there is content for it- and that would of course be SACD multi-ch titles with sub content, or Blu-ray, etc. I often leave the sub off if listening to analog-direct mode for 2ch hi-res audio, etc. Finally- remember that this is NOT an issue when you first turn the sub on... it only becomes an issue after the sub has been left on for an hour or two (with the same content playing the entire time, so it's not a content issue).

Personally, I suspect the repl sub amp has some component that has gone bad over time... maybe the device runs hot, shortening its lifetime, etc. Who knows. Bottom line- many of the pieces in my rig are about 10 years old at this point, and none of these pieces are having problems *except* for the Velodyne... and it's one of the most expensive single pieces I have.

my current gear:

Sony str-da777es receiver
Sony dvp-s9000es dvd/sacd
Sony scd-xa777es sacd/cd
Sony bdp-s5000es blu-ray/dvd
NHT VT-2.4 mains + VS-2.4 center/surrounds w/2 x NHT SA-3 monoblocks
Velodyne HGS-15 Series II
Velodyne SMS-1 eq (not connected)
high-Q interconnections throughout

Rob-

I have a HGS-15 Series II that I've had since new... the amp in this thing has already been replaced once by Velodyne (a few years back, at my expense), and it looks like I might need to do this again.

The problem is if the amp is running long enough (1-2hrs on my latest pass), the driver starts to emit a rattle-like sound (not a popping sound) at almost any volume level that shadows the signal (not loud, but it's definitely there). If I leave the amp off for a period of time, the problem goes away. The sub is rarely used (only used for multi-ch SACD content or Blu-ray/DVD, etc)... and the sub is *never* driven hard or abused. (I already have a pair of bi-amped NHT VT-2.4 towers to handle most of the bass, just not the subsonic stuff that the Velodyne can deliver)

I really can't understand what's going on with these HGS amps... possibly having two of these amps replaced in a matter of a few years is totally unacceptable given what these high-end servo subs cost. Maybe you can fill me (all of us) in on the following:

- Are there known problems with the HGS series amps (even in a Series II sub, which is what mine is)?
- If this is an amp issue, can you share what the issues are, and if there's a way to possibly prevent/correct this in my current amp?
- If I need another new amp, how do I know the new amp won't have the same problem in a year or two (or another problem for that matter)?
- Finally, do I have to pay yet again for another repl amp? I already paid once, and it seems like I only got maybe 2-3 years out of the last repl...

Thanks in advance for your help... sure hope we can somehow get to root-cause on this.

Mike

If you recently had service and are having issues again, please contact us so we may resolve them for you. The number to call is 408-465-2851.

There are no known design issues in current HGS electronics packs being sent out by our service department. All HGS electronics packs that are sent in, regardless of original series, get the latest version of our electronics pack sent in return.

Ok so on my receiver settings for sub should i pick pluse or yes and my speakers to small or larg i have klipsch speakers RF-83 RF-63 RC-64.THANKS

Speaker settings are a matter of preference. To start, I would set the RF-83s to Large, and your other others to small. Then set the sub to plus.

I have a 4500 sq ft room with one HSG 15 sub. Would a second HSG make a big difference ? One for sale now on ebay
thanls

I purchased two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers for my front room theater and I have to say that I am very honored to own two of the finest subwoofers ever built. I used to own a 1st series ES-10 subwoofer made by Energy. I had this thing sitting in the corner of my living room barely making any noise. My wife would make jokes about how the sub would be better off as a pedestal for some plants instead of a subwoofer. I finally upgraded my entire theater with all B&W and a new receiver. I decided to purchase two Velodyne subwoofers after I spent a full month shopping for a new sub. I drove to a local store and the sales person let my wife and I play around with their equipment for a good five hours. I listened to music, watched a full movie, and played a video game from my PS3 that I had dragged with me. I could not believe this 12-inch sub sounded so good. I was shocked how good this sub was. I purchased the sub without thinking about it and drove home. I hooked the Velodyne to my theater and I actually heard sound for the first time in years. I felt like I just learned how to hear for the first time. The walls of my house rattled, pictures shook, and my dog tucked his ears back and ran away in fear. My wife loves the sound of our new B&W speakers and Velodyne sub. Two weeks after breaking in the new Velodyne and speakers, I had to purchase a second matching Velodyne to compliment the first Velodyne sub bass a little better. I have bass in stereo. I am in love. Movies have never sounded so good. Your company makes a darn good home subwoofer. I wish I had the money to purchase two 15inch DD, but oh well. My budget was small and the DD series was out of my price range. I would love to have the option of manually setting the EQ of each subwoofer on my big 55inch TV. I do have one question. Since the DEQ series are slot-loaded bass-reflex type subwoofers, would my two subwoofers sound better on spikes? How much vibration does these boxes produce? I have both Velodyne subwoofers sitting on carpet, with one in each corner of the room.
Cheers
Jesse Miller :)

I purchased two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers for my front room theater and I have to say that I am very honored to own two of the finest subwoofers ever built.

I used to have a DEQ-12R and while they are quite capable subs for the money I wouldn't call them one of "the finest subwoofers ever built."

I bought an Impact 12 yesterday and connected it to my old Denon AVR-2801. No y-split connected yet, just a single RCA. I have set all speakers to small and subwoofer to receive LFE. There are no crossover settings in my receiver. The subwoofer is set to crossover at 80hz.

To test it out I played a movie (Gladiator) which I know have scenes with a lot of bass in them. The problem is I didn't get much out of the subwoofer until I raised the subwoofer volume to 60-70%.

-Could this be solved by an y-split giving more power?
-Should I raise the subwoofer channel level?
-Should I raise the crossover on the sub in case the receiver splits it at 80Hz?

I'm pretty sure that the size is right for my room since the receiver test tone makes things to start rattle in the room.

I have a 4500 sq ft room with one HSG 15 sub. Would a second HSG make a big difference ? One for sale now on ebay
thanls

Yes a second sub would make a big difference. Not only will you be able to move more are in that massive room, but you will enlarge your sweet spot and less distortion with greater headroom. See our article on multiple subwoofers in the Velolounge (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/mutisubs.aspx)

I purchased two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers for my front room theater and I have to say that I am very honored to own two of the finest subwoofers ever built. I used to own a 1st series ES-10 subwoofer made by Energy. I had this thing sitting in the corner of my living room barely making any noise. My wife would make jokes about how the sub would be better off as a pedestal for some plants instead of a subwoofer. I finally upgraded my entire theater with all B&W and a new receiver. I decided to purchase two Velodyne subwoofers after I spent a full month shopping for a new sub. I drove to a local store and the sales person let my wife and I play around with their equipment for a good five hours. I listened to music, watched a full movie, and played a video game from my PS3 that I had dragged with me. I could not believe this 12-inch sub sounded so good. I was shocked how good this sub was. I purchased the sub without thinking about it and drove home. I hooked the Velodyne to my theater and I actually heard sound for the first time in years. I felt like I just learned how to hear for the first time. The walls of my house rattled, pictures shook, and my dog tucked his ears back and ran away in fear. My wife loves the sound of our new B&W speakers and Velodyne sub. Two weeks after breaking in the new Velodyne and speakers, I had to purchase a second matching Velodyne to compliment the first Velodyne sub bass a little better. I have bass in stereo. I am in love. Movies have never sounded so good. Your company makes a darn good home subwoofer. I wish I had the money to purchase two 15inch DD, but oh well. My budget was small and the DD series was out of my price range. I would love to have the option of manually setting the EQ of each subwoofer on my big 55inch TV. I do have one question. Since the DEQ series are slot-loaded bass-reflex type subwoofers, would my two subwoofers sound better on spikes? How much vibration does these boxes produce? I have both Velodyne subwoofers sitting on carpet, with one in each corner of the room.
Cheers
Jesse Miller :)

I am glad you are enjoying your new DEQ series subwoofers. I think too often it is easy to get wrapped up in top the of the line product and forget just how good these bass reflex design subwoofers can be. During my testing I found the DEQ to be quite impressive and blended nicely with most home theater systems.

The cabinet for the Velodyne 12 inch DEQ is fairly inert and vibration free, you can experiment with putting feet under the DEQ to see if you notice any benefit. In all likelihood any effect will be minimal, but because every environment is different, experimentation will lead you to what ultimately sounds best to you. What I have found works best in my system to my ear may not translate to your system and your ear.

The Benefits of Multiple Subwoofers (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/mutisubs.aspx)

I bought an Impact 12 yesterday and connected it to my old Denon AVR-2801. No y-split connected yet, just a single RCA. I have set all speakers to small and subwoofer to receive LFE. There are no crossover settings in my receiver. The subwoofer is set to crossover at 80hz.

To test it out I played a movie (Gladiator) which I know have scenes with a lot of bass in them. The problem is I didn't get much out of the subwoofer until I raised the subwoofer volume to 60-70%.

-Could this be solved by an y-split giving more power?
-Should I raise the subwoofer channel level?
-Should I raise the crossover on the sub in case the receiver splits it at 80Hz?

I'm pretty sure that the size is right for my room since the receiver test tone makes things to start rattle in the room.

A Y splitter may help a touch, but the first thing I would check is the LFE gain setting in the receiver. If the LFE gain is set between 0 and +5 dB and you are still experiencing a problem, then the next step would be to check the subwoofer.

To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer is working you will hear the bass portion of the music, this means the problem is elsewhere in your system. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.

If there is a problem with your subwoofer please contact us, otherwise you will need to check with Denon.

LFE was set to 0db, it has only two settings. 0db and –10db. I will try with the y split tonight and also with your suggestions.

One other thing, I'm using a digital coaxial cable but I guess that's fine.

LFE was set to 0db, it has only two settings. 0db and –10db. I will try with the y split tonight and also with your suggestions.

One other thing, I'm using a digital coaxial cable but I guess that's fine.

Well then definitely run it at 0dB

1. The sub in movies was definitely better with the y link, I could lower the volume under 50% and still get good bass.
2. I tried your suggestion with hooking up a cd with "Forgot about dre" (a song with massive bass). The sub is definitely working, I had to turn down the volume to 25% and still I had some glasses shaking in a cupboard in the other end of the room :-)

Thanks for the help! I will look into the receiver settings. By the way, the date on the back on my sub says april 08, is that manufacturing date?

1. The sub in movies was definitely better with the y link, I could lower the volume under 50% and still get good bass.
2. I tried your suggestion with hooking up a cd with "Forgot about dre" (a song with massive bass). The sub is definitely working, I had to turn down the volume to 25% and still I had some glasses shaking in a cupboard in the other end of the room :-)

Thanks for the help! I will look into the receiver settings. By the way, the date on the back on my sub says april 08, is that manufacturing date?

If it is the date on the serial number label then yes.

Hello all,
\
I am new to the subwoofer world. And this is my first post. I just bought a used Velodyne SPL-1200R. I am thinking about two options: 1) Looking to buy another SPL-1200R and set up twin sub in my home theaters. Or 2)Buy just one DD-12+ when it come out.

Here is my questions:
1) When set up the sub, do I run the sub Auto-EQ before running the receiver's MCACC or Audyssey speakers calibration? Or running the receiver calibration before the sub?
2) If I go with two subwoofers setup, do I run the sub Auto-EQ on one sub at a time? that mean turn off sub 2, calibrate sub 1 first, then turn off sub 1 and calibrate sub 2. Or both sub has to be on and connecte at all time during Auto-EQ?

The equipments I use are: Pioneer SC-25 (only 1 LFE out. so I need to use a Y-Spliter). Mirage OMD-15 main and OMD-C1 center and OMD-5 surround.

Thanks

Hello all,
\
I am new to the subwoofer world. And this is my first post. I just bought a used Velodyne SPL-1200R. I am thinking about two options: 1) Looking to buy another SPL-1200R and set up twin sub in my home theaters. Or 2)Buy just one DD-12+ when it come out.

Here is my questions:
1) When set up the sub, do I run the sub Auto-EQ before running the receiver's MCACC or Audyssey speakers calibration? Or running the receiver calibration before the sub?
2) If I go with two subwoofers setup, do I run the sub Auto-EQ on one sub at a time? that mean turn off sub 2, calibrate sub 1 first, then turn off sub 1 and calibrate sub 2. Or both sub has to be on and connecte at all time during Auto-EQ?

The equipments I use are: Pioneer SC-25 (only 1 LFE out. so I need to use a Y-Spliter). Mirage OMD-15 main and OMD-C1 center and OMD-5 surround.

Thanks

You should run the Audyssey first. After it has set your receiver go back in and so you can fix a few setting Audyssey will likely mess up. First, Audyssey is going to drop your LFE level extreamly low; raise it back up between 0 and +3db. Next take a look at the cross over setting of your speakers, unless you are running satellite speakers set this at 80hz. Now you can run the auto EQ on the SPL-R, one subwoofer at a time. Finally adjust the volume of the subwoofer to your desired output.

If it is the date on the serial number label then yes.

Any drawbacks of buying a new sub that is three years old? Have anything changed with the impact series up until now?

Any drawbacks of buying a new sub that is three years old? Have anything changed with the impact series up until now?

There have been no changes. Depending on how the dealer rotates their stock, this can happen. sometimes the first unit received in the store is not always the first unit shipped. For this reason, all Velodyne units are warrantied from the date of purchase from an authorized dealer and not the date of manufacture.

I have a question about my dd-18 fixed hp crossover and slope. I currently have my dd-18 receiving L&R pre-outs from my Oinkyo 805 (It's the only way for me to use the sub in pore audio mode), then out to my Rotel 985mk2 (not via "thru" out). In Pure Audio mode I assume all the 805's processing and bass management is bypassed for the purest of signals. My question is, if I turn off or unplug my dd-18, is the fixed crossover and slope still in effect?

For HT, all my other subs (twin eD A7-450, and Axiom EP-500v2) are daisy chained off the 805's LFE out at 80hz 24db/oct. So basically I can run a Pure Audio system with the dd-18, or run the HT system using the 805's bass management. My question is if the dd-18 fixed crossover is still in effect even if the dd-18 is turned off for HT, won't that cascade and create an overly steep high pass slope for my B&W FCM8 THX main speakers which already have a 2nd order 80hz rolloff designed in? I figure my high pass will now be B&W 12db/oct + dd-18 6db + 805 12db/oct = 30db/oct all at 80Hz. Any drawback to this for HT?

Thanks!

If you recently had service and are having issues again, please contact us so we may resolve them for you. The number to call is 408-465-2851.

There are no known design issues in current HGS electronics packs being sent out by our service department. All HGS electronics packs that are sent in, regardless of original series, get the latest version of our electronics pack sent in return.


Rob-

Thanks a lot for your help... will try and give you a call in the next day or so.

Mike

Rob, can you elaborate a little of the slot-loaded bass-reflex design? Is the slot basically a port? If it is a port, what HZ is the DEQ-12R series port tuned to?


Since the cabinet does not produce any vibration and most of the bass is thrown forward through the slot, would this sub be good sitting in an entertainment center, or a corner shelf unit?


Cheers

I have a question about my dd-18 fixed hp crossover and slope. I currently have my dd-18 receiving L&R pre-outs from my Oinkyo 805 (It's the only way for me to use the sub in pore audio mode), then out to my Rotel 985mk2 (not via "thru" out). In Pure Audio mode I assume all the 805's processing and bass management is bypassed for the purest of signals. My question is, if I turn off or unplug my dd-18, is the fixed crossover and slope still in effect?

For HT, all my other subs (twin eD A7-450, and Axiom EP-500v2) are daisy chained off the 805's LFE out at 80hz 24db/oct. So basically I can run a Pure Audio system with the dd-18, or run the HT system using the 805's bass management. My question is if the dd-18 fixed crossover is still in effect even if the dd-18 is turned off for HT, won't that cascade and create an overly steep high pass slope for my B&W FCM8 THX main speakers which already have a 2nd order 80hz rolloff designed in? I figure my high pass will now be B&W 12db/oct + dd-18 6db + 805 12db/oct = 30db/oct all at 80Hz. Any drawback to this for HT?

Thanks!
Hello
Yes the DD18 crossover is still in effect when the unit is off. overly steep high pass slope probably not, you can use the DD on screen graph to take a look and adjust if needed it

I'm currently running a pair of Velodyne DLS-5000R and pretty satisfied with them. Would adding a 3rd one would do any improvement? They are at about 30% each and equalized with the SMS-1.

And yes this is an upgraditis case :P

Rob, can you elaborate a little of the slot-loaded bass-reflex design? Is the slot basically a port? If it is a port, what HZ is the DEQ-12R series port tuned to?


Since the cabinet does not produce any vibration and most of the bass is thrown forward through the slot, would this sub be good sitting in an entertainment center, or a corner shelf unit?


Cheers

The port on the DEQ-12 is tuned to re-enforce the bass response at 30Hz. The cabinet is fairly inert, however there may still be energy transfer. It is advisable to take caution when loading a subwoofer into a cabinet.

I'm currently running a pair of Velodyne DLS-5000R and pretty satisfied with them. Would adding a 3rd one would do any improvement? They are at about 30% each and equalized with the SMS-1.

And yes this is an upgraditis case :P

Studies have shown that the more subs you add the better the bass, however there is a significant diminishing return after 4 subwoofer are integrated into a room. For more information please refer to our VeloLounge article on multiple subwoofers (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/mutisubs.aspx).

Hey guys,

I posted this in the Energy thread but didn't get any responses. I was wondering if someone here could give me some advice on this. Thanks:


"Does anyone use a Velodyne sub with their Energy speakers? I have the Take Classic 5.1 and the esw-8 is just not cutting it. I am considering a Velodyne Impact Mini or Impact 10. I don't have a lot of room for a big sub which is why I am considering these. I was just curious if anyone here has any experience with either of those subs."

Hey guys,

I posted this in the Energy thread but didn't get any responses. I was wondering if someone here could give me some advice on this. Thanks:


"Does anyone use a Velodyne sub with their Energy speakers? I have the Take Classic 5.1 and the esw-8 is just not cutting it. I am considering a Velodyne Impact Mini or Impact 10. I don't have a lot of room for a big sub which is why I am considering these. I was just curious if anyone here has any experience with either of those subs."

The Impact 10 should provide more output over the ESW-8, the Impact mini may not provide a significant improvement.

Hi Rob,
Recently purchased an SPL1200 Ulltra in Australia which is the Optimum12 in the US.
My query relates to calibration of the sub with an radio shack spl meter.

Which Preset of the sub should used when calbrating; Jazz, movies, rock or games (which i dont use.) I have run the eq program and do like the results there.

Cheers cooksta

Hi Rob,
Recently purchased an SPL1200 Ulltra in Australia which is the Optimum12 in the US.
My query relates to calibration of the sub with an radio shack spl meter.

Which Preset of the sub should used when calbrating; Jazz, movies, rock or games (which i dont use.) I have run the eq program and do like the results there.

Cheers cooksta

The Jazz/Classic mode is the default flat mode. So after you have run the equalization, that setting will be your flattest bass curve. The other three modes all have some tweeks to the curve based around a predetermined contour frequency and may increase the volume of the subwoofer a bit. So I would do all whole system calibration in the Jazz/Classic mode.

Hi,

I recently acquired a ULD-18 sans amp. If anyone has a compatible amp that they might part with for a reasonable (as defined by being a student with two children) sum please PM me.

Thanks,
Michael

I have the DLS-5000 I was wondering if It is ok to add a different model for the second sub or is it better to go with the same one for the second one.

What I'm trying to achieve is lower tighter bass that is detailed but fills the room better
Thanks.

I have the DLS-5000 I was wondering if It is ok to add a different model for the second sub or is it better to go with the same one for the second one.

What I'm trying to achieve is lower tighter bass that is detailed but fills the room better
Thanks.

You can add any subwoofer you like. However adding a higher end subwoofer with a sealed enclosure that will have the tighter bass, will have it benefits reduced by the ported subwoofer in the room. Adding a second subwoofer will provide much better bass than just one subwoofer. If I were matching a subwoofer to the DLS-5000R, I would look to another DLS-R or the DEQ-R series subwoofers.

Hello
Adding a second sub would expand the sweet spot to give you richer bass sound in the room.If you add the Optimum 12 it will be able to handle lower frequency then the DLS5000R

Rob, is the current DLS-R line being phased out? Can I expect to find a good deal on the DLS-5000r through any of your resellers or direct?

The Jazz/Classic mode is the default flat mode. So after you have run the equalization, that setting will be your flattest bass curve. The other three modes all have some tweeks to the curve based around a predetermined contour frequency and may increase the volume of the subwoofer a bit. So I would do all whole system calibration in the Jazz/Classic mode.

Thanks Rob, the increase in volume of the sub in the other modes was the reason for my question.

Edit; The ultra(Optimum 12) has made an impressive difference to music in my system. Ht is good but musically for me its excellent.

Rob, is the current DLS-R line being phased out? Can I expect to find a good deal on the DLS-5000r through any of your resellers or direct?

The DLS-R is still current.

Does the room Eq software really make a noticable difference ?

Thinking of selling my Paradigm sub to go with a new DEQ 12 sub.

I am running a Rel Q201e also. Thinking of dedicating that to the Nuetrik connection and haveing it subsadize the mains ,Vienna Acoustics Beethovens, and running a DEQ12 as the LFE.

Or shoudl they both run as LFE ?

using an AV7005 with MultEQ XT for reference

Chris

Does the room Eq software really make a noticable difference ?

Thinking of selling my Paradigm sub to go with a new DEQ 12 sub.

I am running a Rel Q201e also. Thinking of dedicating that to the Nuetrik connection and haveing it subsadize the mains ,Vienna Acoustics Beethovens, and running a DEQ12 as the LFE.

Or shoudl they both run as LFE ?

using an AV7005 with MultEQ XT for reference

Chris

The Equalizer in the DEQ-12R will automatically adjust five bands of equalization between below 100Hz to create a flat response curve based on your listening location and the subwoofer's placement. In some rooms and arrangements this could be a minor change, and in others it could be a major change.

You may experiment and see if both subs hooked to the LFE makes any difference vs running one in series with the main speakers. In theory there should be no difference if your processor's crossover controls are functioning properly, however in practice there may be a difference in two channel listening

Thanks Rob.

This may have been asked already but from a Home Theater perspective, when you buy say a Mini Vee 10 vs a DEQ12 are you really paying more for the size ? Or would the Mini Vee be a clener sub with more output ?

Thanks Rob.

This may have been asked already but from a Home Theater perspective, when you buy say a Mini Vee 10 vs a DEQ12 are you really paying more for the size ? Or would the Mini Vee be a clener sub with more output ?

If the sub is primarily for home theater then the DEQ-12R or better yet two DEQ-10Rs would be just as good if not better than the MiniVee10. The DEQ 12 will have more output while the MiniVee10 will have the tighter bass response audiophiles will prefer for music, but that does not mean the DEQs are slouches in that department either. The DEQ series offers tremendous quality bang for your buck. Not every solution requires the highest amplifier rating.:D

Thank you again Rob. I have always been a Velodyne fan, your immediate feedback and support only solidfys why. I noticed above you reference a ported sub mixed with a sealed (Rel Q201e). Is there a big downside ? Should I sell the Rel to go with 2 DEQ's ?

Is the DD, SMS-1, a far superior EQ system to the DEQ if you are not using the Sub above 100hz ?

Last questions I Promise. :)

Thank you again Rob. I have always been a Velodyne fan, your immediate feedback and support only solidfys why. I noticed above you reference a ported sub mixed with a sealed (Rel Q201e). Is there a big downside ? Should I sell the Rel to go with 2 DEQ's ?

Is the DD, SMS-1, a far superior EQ system to the DEQ if you are not using the Sub above 100hz ?

Last questions I Promise. :)

While it is difficult to say when commenting on other brands of subwoofers, typically adding a ported sub to a system with a sealed sub will changed the overall characteristic of the bass. The issue of your personal preference comes into play here as to which you like, not everyone finds the sound of a sealed sub superior.

The DD and SMS-1 utilize eight bands of equalization that can be run in the auto mode or adjusted parametrically. It is superior system to that found in the DEQ.

I have Klipsch RF-83, RC-62, and RS-42 for the 5.0 part of the system and a Pioneer VSX-23 AVR. The room is between 4500 and 5000 cubic ft. The system sounds really good as is, but would like to add that little extra on the low end.
The system is mostly used for TV and movies and is played at fairly high but not obnoxious volume levels for movies. It is not uncommon for us to play low volume music all day on the weekends and when the opportunity arises I like to crank up the 70's rock-n-roll.
Along with the usual internet direct suspects I am considering either a DEQ-15 or the Optimum-12. The built in EQ is what draws me to these subs verses the internet direct offerings which go lower in frequency for less money.

Is the Optimum-12 was worth the extra $$$ in sound quality compared to the DEQ-15 ?

How is the sound different between the two ?

I have Klipsch RF-83, RC-62, and RS-42 for the 5.0 part of the system and a Pioneer VSX-23 AVR. The room is between 4500 and 5000 cubic ft. The system sounds really good as is, but would like to add that little extra on the low end.
The system is mostly used for TV and movies and is played at fairly high but not obnoxious volume levels for movies. It is not uncommon for us to play low volume music all day on the weekends and when the opportunity arises I like to crank up the 70's rock-n-roll.
Along with the usual internet direct suspects I am considering either a DEQ-15 or the Optimum-12. The built in EQ is what draws me to these subs verses the internet direct offerings which go lower in frequency for less money.

Is the Optimum-12 was worth the extra $$$ in sound quality compared to the DEQ-15 ?

How is the sound different between the two ?

The difference other than size is primarily the design. You can read about subwoofer design on the VeloLounge (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subdesign.aspx). The DEQ utilizes a slot loaded bass reflex design while the Optimum is a sealed enclosure. The Optimum also has a seven band equalization system vs the five band system in the DEQ. If you have the opportunity I would listen to each sub at your local retailer to determine which sounds best to you.

Hey guys,

I posted this in the Energy thread but didn't get any responses. I was wondering if someone here could give me some advice on this. Thanks:


"Does anyone use a Velodyne sub with their Energy speakers? I have the Take Classic 5.1 and the esw-8 is just not cutting it. I am considering a Velodyne Impact Mini or Impact 10. I don't have a lot of room for a big sub which is why I am considering these. I was just curious if anyone here has any experience with either of those subs."

The Impact 10 should provide more output over the ESW-8, the Impact mini may not provide a significant improvement.

Thanks Rob. One of my problems with the esw-8 is it is clipping/distorting during certain scenes (like when the Kelvin first flys over in the opening of Star Trek). It also seems like the bass is very localized to a certain area of my room. Granted I know my room layout and speaker positioning are probably the main culprit for that. For music the sub actually does pretty good with a nice tight bass note on the drums.

Also, the esw-8 is down firing with a front port so will the Impact 10 front firing make a difference also? Sorry for the newb questions. I need to read the sub forums more. BTW, I have an Onkyo 607 receiver driving everything. It only has Audyssey 2 EQ, not MultiEQ to eq the sub also.

For those of you have been asking, the new Subwoofers from Velodyne have been announced, read the press releases (spec sheets coming soon):

Digital Drive plus (http://www.velodyne.com/vpressroom/pressdetails.aspx?ID=56) - Our new flagship subwoofer

Wi-Connect (http://www.velodyne.com/vpressroom/pressdetails.aspx?ID=55) - Our new wireless subwoofer

Hey Rob. I just want to thank you guys for putting out such great products. I picked up a 10 year old SPL-10 sub a couple of weeks ago. Perfect condition, sounds great! best $35 i have spent on my stereo. OK, the $50 Mirage OM-10s were a good deal too...

Seriously though, very nice stuff, and thanks for the "live" support. Will yell if anything ever goes poof!

Is the Optimum-12 was worth the extra $$$ in sound quality compared to the DEQ-15 ?
How is the sound different between the two ?
Anybody have either one of these subs ?
Even better has anyone been able to listen to these subs side by side or compare either one to another sub side by side ?
Any comments on how either one sounds ?
Did the auto EQ improve the sound or did it kill the bass and need to be adjusted manually ?
Did you measure the before / after results using a SPL meter and run the numbers through something like REW ?
I appreciate any user reviews that may be offered.
I am trying to decide between Velodyne and the internet direct subs that are at the same price points.
Thanks.

Anybody have either one of these subs ?
Even better has anyone been able to listen to these subs side by side or compare either one to another sub side by side ?
Any comments on how either one sounds ?
Did the auto EQ improve the sound or did it kill the bass and need to be adjusted manually ?
Did you measure the before / after results using a SPL meter and run the numbers through something like REW ?
I appreciate any user reviews that may be offered.
I am trying to decide between Velodyne and the internet direct subs that are at the same price points.
Thanks.

The two subs have different sound tenancies due to the variation in their design. The DEQ series is a bass reflex design while the Optimum is a sealed enclosure. Sealed enclosures are typically tighter and more desirable for critical music listening. While the bass reflex design offers tremendous output capable of shaking nearly any theater.

The DEQ series 5 band equalizer and the Optimum's 7 band equalizer will optimize your bass response at the primary listening location based on your subwoofer's location in the room. You can maximize your results by first conducting a crawl test to find the optimal location for the subwoofer before you EQ it. The EQ has its limitations and can not fully solve all room issues. The EQ will not kill the bass, however it may flatten out a peak or excited frequency.

Thanks,
The Optimum and the DEQ are very different animals in regards to the mechanical structure of the speaker ( 20+ lb magnet vs < 5 lb magnet ) along with a huge difference in the amplifier wattage.
Will the DEQ achieve higher SPL than the Optimum ?
Do you have anechoic or ground plane frequency response graphs for the subs ?
I am just trying to figure out which would be the better option since the DD series is beyond what I am willing to spend.

Rob, or anyone who can do it, I was wondering if you could explain what the actual Q Setting does? I see it's defaulted to 4.3 for all frequencies. What happens if I lower or raise it from 4.3? The manual didn't really cover this too much. The reason that I am asking is because I have a 8db peak at 40 Hz. I have cut the frequency completely to -13, and the peak lowered to 8db. So, I was wondering if I could use the "Q" to cut the peak some more at 40Hz? If so, would I need to raise or lower the "Q"? This just hit me now to try. So, when I get home tonight, I will give it a try to see what happens; but, if you could give me some info about the "Q" Setting now, that will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your response.

Thanks,
The Optimum and the DEQ are very different animals in regards to the mechanical structure of the speaker ( 20+ lb magnet vs < 5 lb magnet ) along with a huge difference in the amplifier wattage.
Will the DEQ achieve higher SPL than the Optimum ?
Do you have anechoic or ground plane frequency response graphs for the subs ?
I am just trying to figure out which would be the better option since the DD series is beyond what I am willing to spend.

The motor structure and amplifiers are indeed different. This is in part due to the extra resistance caused by the increase in air pressure in a sealed subwoofer vs a ported subwoofer, as well as the need to hit certain predetermined design benchmarks.

Deciding which is the better option really comes down to personal taste. You need to listen to each one and determine if one sounds any better to you or not. Since every room is different, everyone hears different, and everyone perceives the sound differently; graphs and meter reading may tell you that one in truer but that doesn't mean is sounds better to you.

I would love to tell you to purchase the more expensive unit, but I know several people that after listening found they preferred the sound of the DEQ. I also know several who after listening decided they had to have the Optimum. Trust your ears in a blind test over facts, figures, and forum chatter and you will find the right sub for you.

Rob, or anyone who can do it, I was wondering if you could explain what the actual Q Setting does? I see it's defaulted to 4.3 for all frequencies. What happens if I lower or raise it from 4.3? The manual didn't really cover this too much. The reason that I am asking is because I have a 8db peak at 40 Hz. I have cut the frequency completely to -13, and the peak lowered to 8db. So, I was wondering if I could use the "Q" to cut the peak some more at 40Hz? If so, would I need to raise or lower the "Q"? This just hit me now to try. So, when I get home tonight, I will give it a try to see what happens; but, if you could give me some info about the "Q" Setting now, that will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your response.

Q represents the quality of the curve of the band passed by the filter. If you need to fix a very narrow dip or peak in your system's response, the high Q filter will work best. If you have a wider band that needs to be tamed, the low Q setting would be a better choice

Q represents the quality of the curve of the band passed by the filter. If you need to fix a very narrow dip or peak in your system's response, the high Q filter will work best. If you have a wider band that needs to be tamed, the low Q setting would be a better choice

Got it. I will definitely play with this tonight. I believe this will do exactly what I need to do. Thanks much for the info.

Q represents the quality of the curve of the band passed by the filter. If you need to fix a very narrow dip or peak in your system's response, the high Q filter will work best. If you have a wider band that needs to be tamed, the low Q setting would be a better choice

I just thought of another question. At 40Hz with the "Q" set to 4.3, would adjusting the 40Hz frequency also impact 32Hz and 50Hz? How far does the 4.3 "Q" setting expand from 40Hz?

Been playing with my DD-18 again (better stop before I go blind). Anyway I was just curious if Velodyne advocates EQ'ing for a flat FR, or a House Curve? I hear this sub gets rave reviews, and would like to know if they were tested EQ'ed for flattest FR ,or to the reviewer's preferential House Curve?

I just thought of another question. At 40Hz with the "Q" set to 4.3, would adjusting the 40Hz frequency also impact 32Hz and 50Hz? How far does the 4.3 "Q" setting expand from 40Hz?


Q = (center frequency)/((high frequency 3dB down point) - (low frequency 3dB down point))

For a center point of 40Hz to affect the 32Hz and 50 Hz frequencies within 3dB the Q would need to be lowered to a minimum of 2.2

Adjusting Q can help tame problematic peaks, remember lowering and raising Q will effect the surrounding frequencies. Sometimes change is a result of the filter and sometimes as a result in the changes to how the room is loaded.

Rob, or anyone who can do it, I was wondering if you could explain what the actual Q Setting does? I see it's defaulted to 4.3 for all frequencies. What happens if I lower or raise it from 4.3? The manual didn't really cover this too much. The reason that I am asking is because I have a 8db peak at 40 Hz. I have cut the frequency completely to -13, and the peak lowered to 8db. So, I was wondering if I could use the "Q" to cut the peak some more at 40Hz? If so, would I need to raise or lower the "Q"? This just hit me now to try. So, when I get home tonight, I will give it a try to see what happens; but, if you could give me some info about the "Q" Setting now, that will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your response.

Hello
The Q is the quality of the bandwidth of a certain frequency, to give you
the ability to control peaks and valley better
the higher the number the narrower the bandwidth the lower the number the
wider the bandwidth.+ - the polarity

Been playing with my DD-18 again (better stop before I go blind). Anyway I was just curious if Velodyne advocates EQ'ing for a flat FR, or a House Curve? I hear this sub gets rave reviews, and would like to know if they were tested EQ'ed for flattest FR ,or to the reviewer's preferential House Curve?

Most people will EQ the sub to be as flat as possible, then use the presets to set a contour frequencies to create desired curves. Nothing however says you have to EQ the sub flat.

Q = (center frequency)/((high frequency 3dB down point) - (low frequency 3dB down point))

For a center point of 40Hz to affect the 32Hz and 50 Hz frequencies within 3dB the Q would need to be lowered to a minimum of 2.2

Adjusting Q can help tame problematic peaks, remember lowering and raising Q will effect the surrounding frequencies. Sometimes change is a result of the filter and sometimes as a result in the changes to how the room is loaded.

Hello
The Q is the quality of the bandwidth of a certain frequency, to give you
the ability to control peaks and valley better
the higher the number the narrower the bandwidth the lower the number the
wider the bandwidth.+ - the polarity

Thanks Rob and catdog2 for your responses.

Dead CT 80?

I've owned a CT 80 for about 10 years, used it for about 6. Replaced my speaker system with a Polk RM6880 system in '06 and haven't used the CT 80 since. I recently got it out of the closet it's been in and tried to power it up.

Nothing. Not the fuse. I'm assuming this is a common problem with this model, but wondering if anyone has the answer. Do I need to just scrap this thing? Turn it into a fish tank? I'd love to get it working again, even if it cost me a little coin.

I HAVE exhausted myself searching on AVS and the rest of the Google world looking for some sort of relative page with an answer. All I see is a similar complaint without any sort of follow-up or explanation. This thread having over 135 pages, little much to dig through.

Thanks in advance.

Q = (center frequency)/((high frequency 3dB down point) - (low frequency 3dB down point))

For a center point of 40Hz to affect the 32Hz and 50 Hz frequencies within 3dB the Q would need to be lowered to a minimum of 2.2

Adjusting Q can help tame problematic peaks, remember lowering and raising Q will effect the surrounding frequencies. Sometimes change is a result of the filter and sometimes as a result in the changes to how the room is loaded.

Rob and catdog2, thanks again for your explanation on the "Q". It took me a while last night; but, I finally dialed in my sub last night. From 15Hz to 120Hz, I am within 2db of peaks and valleys across the frequencies. Playing around with the different Q settings did the trick. I only had to adjust the Q settings on about 3 of the frequencies to really dial in my sub. Like I said, it took me a few hours; but, it was time very well spent for the result that I received.

Rob, the formula was extremely helpful for figuring out the Q setting. I used that quite a bit last night to deal with some peaks and some small valleys.

I do have one last question that I think I know the answer to; but, I am not for sure. The default Q setting is 4.3 which is 1/3 octave. So, if 40 Hz has a Q setting of 4.3, is that affecting 1/3 of the octave above and below 40 Hz?

Once again, thanks for all of the help.:D:D:D

Dead CT 80?

I've owned a CT 80 for about 10 years, used it for about 6. Replaced my speaker system with a Polk RM6880 system in '06 and haven't used the CT 80 since. I recently got it out of the closet it's been in and tried to power it up.

Nothing. Not the fuse. I'm assuming this is a common problem with this model, but wondering if anyone has the answer. Do I need to just scrap this thing? Turn it into a fish tank? I'd love to get it working again, even if it cost me a little coin.

I HAVE exhausted myself searching on AVS and the rest of the Google world looking for some sort of relative page with an answer. All I see is a similar complaint without any sort of follow-up or explanation. This thread having over 135 pages, little much to dig through.

Thanks in advance.

I am not sure why after 10 years of use you would think this is a common problem. Subwoofers with built in amplifiers, regardless of manufacture will fail over time, and when they fail the most likely point of failure will be in the electronics pack. On your particular model we can likely just sell you a replacement electronics pack. Please take the measurements of the metal plate that is inset in the back of the subwoofer and contact our customer service department at 408-465-2851. We will get you up and running.

Rob and catdog2, thanks again for your explanation on the "Q". It took me a while last night; but, I finally dialed in my sub last night. From 15Hz to 120Hz, I am within 2db of peaks and valleys across the frequencies. Playing around with the different Q settings did the trick. I only had to adjust the Q settings on about 3 of the frequencies to really dial in my sub. Like I said, it took me a few hours; but, it was time very well spent for the result that I received.

Rob, the formula was extremely helpful for figuring out the Q setting. I used that quite a bit last night to deal with some peaks and some small valleys.

I do have one last question that I think I know the answer to; but, I am not for sure. The default Q setting is 4.3 which is 1/3 octave. So, if 40 Hz has a Q setting of 4.3, is that affecting 1/3 of the octave above and below 40 Hz?

Once again, thanks for all of the help.:D:D:D

The default setting of 4.3 is based on the ISO / ANSI standard 1/3 octave frequency band. The filter will effect 1/3 of an octave total, not 1/3 above and below the center frequency.

The default setting of 4.3 is based on the ISO / ANSI standard 1/3 octave frequency band. The filter will effect 1/3 of an octave total, not 1/3 above and below the center frequency.

Got it. Thanks again.

Hello Rob Morse,

I just bought two DD-12. I try to set them up daisy chain. The manual does not show a diagram for thi set up. So I have two questions:

1. Is this how I set two sub daisy chain:
Master -> Master sub, and Slave is Slave sub
a) Receiver LFE OUT to Master LFE IN
b) Master THRU to Slave LFE IN (using any stereo dual RCA wire?)
c) Master Serial OUT to Slave Serial IN
Last night I connect the a 10' serial straight though cable between the two sub, but it doesn't work(each sub still respond to remote volume control individually). This bring up a question on the type of serial cable I used. The cable I used is 9 pin straight through serial cable. Is this correct? If not then what kind of cable(spec) I need?

2) Second quetion I have is: When I press the Preset button #4(Jazz/Classic) on remote control. One of sub's LED(Velodyne Logo) blink 4 times( I guess that mean preset 4). But if I press the same button and point at the second sub, the LED does not blink 4 time. Same problem with when I press the volume button. On the first sub, the LED would blink several time in special sequence indicating the volume. The second sub just blink once then stop on each press of volume button. Would you please explain the problem I having.

Thanks

Hello Rob Morse,

I just bought two DD-12. I try to set them up daisy chain. The manual does not show a diagram for thi set up. So I have two questions:

1. Is this how I set two sub daisy chain:
Master -> Master sub, and Slave is Slave sub
a) Receiver LFE OUT to Master LFE IN
b) Master THRU to Slave LFE IN (using any stereo dual RCA wire?)
c) Master Serial OUT to Slave Serial IN
Last night I connect the a 10' serial straight though cable between the two sub, but it doesn't work(each sub still respond to remote volume control individually). This bring up a question on the type of serial cable I used. The cable I used is 9 pin straight through serial cable. Is this correct? If not then what kind of cable(spec) I need?

2) Second quetion I have is: When I press the Preset button #4(Jazz/Classic) on remote control. One of sub's LED(Velodyne Logo) blink 4 times( I guess that mean preset 4). But if I press the same button and point at the second sub, the LED does not blink 4 time. Same problem with when I press the volume button. On the first sub, the LED would blink several time in special sequence indicating the volume. The second sub just blink once then stop on each press of volume button. Would you please explain the problem I having.

Thanks

The cable you need is an RS-232 Extension cable, this should be a straight through cable.

When a DD subwoofer detects an incoming RS-232 command, it reverts to “Slave
Mode.” This means that the subwoofer will no longer accept IR commands. To reestablish
normal operations, remove the RS-232 cable and power cycle the unit.
Note that the daisy chain connection ONLY allows the woofers to communicate basic “run-time”
commands such as volume and preset. We recommend the following sequence when setting
up daisy-chained subs.
1. First, connect only the master sub to the system. Do not connect the thru or serial
cables at this time.
2. Establish the crossover, phase, and other settings EXCEPT the EQ on the master sub
(see setup steps 1 – 17 starting on page 17). Note the low pass crossover, phase
and polarity settings, then save.
3. Connect the video out of the slave subwoofer, go to the settings screen, establish the
low pass crossover, slope, phase, polarity, and night mode settings from the master
subwoofer, then save settings. Repeat for each slave subwoofer in your system.
4. Connect the microphone to the slave subwoofer and use the “self-EQ” feature
(described on page 12) to establish room EQ for that subwoofer.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for each slave subwoofer in your system.
6. Reconnect the video out to the master subwoofer, and reconnect the thru and serial
cables so that the master and slave subwoofer(s) are daisy chained.
7. EQ the primary subwoofer (see steps 8-25 starting on page 20). Self-EQ is NOT
recommended for the primary subwoofer.
8. Setup is complete!

I recently acquired a ULD18 cabinet and ULD15 amp (from different sources). I spoke to Mr. Santos at Velodyne and he indicated that although not ideal, this pairing should work. The sub sometimes distorts badly and sometimes just produces a definitely audible humming sound. This seems to happen when the signal from the preamp (in this case directly out of my DAC which has digital volume control) is maxed out or when the DAC is not maxed out but there are particularly strong bass passages in the music (e.g. opening straings of Fanfare for the Common Man).

Any insight as to what might be going wrong here?

Thanks,
Michael

BTW -- When it isn't going haywire it sounds quite nice. I hope there is a way to get things working. I am also afraid of damaging the driver.

I recently acquired a ULD18 cabinet and ULD15 amp (from different sources). I spoke to Mr. Santos at Velodyne and he indicated that although not ideal, this pairing should work. The sub sometimes distorts badly and sometimes just produces a definitely audible humming sound. This seems to happen when the signal from the preamp (in this case directly out of my DAC which has digital volume control) is maxed out or when the DAC is not maxed out but there are particularly strong bass passages in the music (e.g. opening straings of Fanfare for the Common Man).

Any insight as to what might be going wrong here?

Thanks,
Michael

BTW -- When it isn't going haywire it sounds quite nice. I hope there is a way to get things working. I am also afraid of damaging the driver.

Since the output on your DAC is a variable output, it could be possible that the volume you have it set at is too high. If the signal strength is too high you can over drive the inputs and cause distortion.

Another possibility is the amp being old, has some tired components and can not deliver the power like it once did.

Another possibility stems from the miss-match of the servo control systems. While normally this shouldn't be a big issue, it would be more pronounced as the driver is driven harder.

I just developed a problem with my CHT-15. Its worked famously in my HT for years. I moved into a smaller apartment to save some cash in anticipation of buying our first home. Well, I lugged the beast back out and plugged it in and there was no sound at all. The power light comes on, just no sound. I checked the fuse, its fine. I pulled he amp, nothing discolored/burnt, etc. I tried switching the inputs from the mono in to the speaker inputs with no result. I checked the driver and it working fine when hooked up to another amp.

I know this isnt something easy to diagnose by my description, but is there something i can try next? Anything specific I can check?

Thanks so much!

I just developed a problem with my CHT-15. Its worked famously in my HT for years. I moved into a smaller apartment to save some cash in anticipation of buying our first home. Well, I lugged the beast back out and plugged it in and there was no sound at all. The power light comes on, just no sound. I checked the fuse, its fine. I pulled he amp, nothing discolored/burnt, etc. I tried switching the inputs from the mono in to the speaker inputs with no result. I checked the driver and it working fine when hooked up to another amp.

I know this isnt something easy to diagnose by my description, but is there something i can try next? Anything specific I can check?

Thanks so much!

It is not unheard of for older electronics to be working one moment, then when unplugged and moved, not work again when plugged back in. From your description it sounds as if there is a problem in the electronics pack. I would recommend contacting us on Monday so we can discuss your service options.

Owner's manuals for current and past Velodyne subwoofers are available to download free of charge under downloads from the support section of our website.

http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/downloadmanual.aspx

Hi all - new to this forum... Can anyone tell me how to bypass the internal crossover on an older (c.1996) F1200 subwoofer? I would like to use the LFE output from my receiver, but the older Velodynes do not have LFE input or a x-over bypass switch like the newer ones....

I am handy with a soldering iron, and don't mind digging into the guts of the amp; just didn't want to start without some guidance, if anybody here has accomplished this before....

THANKS!!!

Hi all - new to this forum... Can anyone tell me how to bypass the internal crossover on an older (c.1996) F1200 subwoofer? I would like to use the LFE output from my receiver, but the older Velodynes do not have LFE input or a x-over bypass switch like the newer ones....

I am handy with a soldering iron, and don't mind digging into the guts of the amp; just didn't want to start without some guidance, if anybody here has accomplished this before....

THANKS!!!

All you need to do is turn the cross-over knob to the highest setting, and set your receiver's cross-over below that point.

Thanks, Rob.
I thought of that, but was looking to x-over the LFE output at 120Hz, and wanted to avoid "conflict" with the sub's filter (which maxes out at 120). Have since talked to Mike at Velodyne Cust. Support (VERY helpful), who's sending me a marked-up schematic so I can reverse engineer a bypass on my own. :)

With a single sub either the DEQ-15 or DLS-5000r, is the Eq going to be of much benifit when already running Audyseey MultEQ XT ?

With a single sub either the DEQ-15 or DLS-5000r, is the Eq going to be of much benifit when already running Audyseey MultEQ XT ?

The DLS-R series does not have an EQ feature. The DEQ-R series has a 5 bands of EQ below 100Hz and will only effect the subwoofer's output.

Some have found that running both EQs have provided some benefit, while some may find they can not notice any significant difference; I have never heard of anyone who thought running both made the system worse. With all things audio, actual result may vary depending on your on perception and situation.

Thanks Rob,

I can find the DLS series much cheaper then the DEQ right now is why I ask.

Every time i turn on the switch i hear a click and the bass stops. Has anyone had the same problem or know of the cheapest way to fix this?

Every time i turn on the switch i hear a click and the bass stops. Has anyone had the same problem or know of the cheapest way to fix this?

What subwoofer?
Which switch?

Sorry
The power switch on a Velodyne ct80 subwoofer.

Sorry
The power switch on a Velodyne ct80 subwoofer.

So when you flip the power switch on a CT-80 you hear a click and the bass stops? I think it is best that you give us a call, I must be missing something.

Rob,

How much is the increase in SPL from the DD-18 to the Plus?

Thanks,

So when you flip the power switch on a CT-80 you hear a click and the bass stops? I think it is best that you give us a call, I must be missing something.

You are not thinking like a support person; obviously he is turning the power off. :)

You are not thinking like a support person; obviously he is turning the power off. :)

That is exactly what I was thinking, that is why I assume I am missing something. I could not conceive of a scenario where someone would post that their subwoofer turns off when they power it off and want to know if anyone else has the same problem.

Rob,

How much is the increase in SPL from the DD-18 to the Plus?

Thanks,

The DD+ series offers a 4.5-6dB gain over the previous DD series. A model to model comparison is in the works as we get actual production samples in for the engineering team.

Hi,

I have had a CHT-12 for about 5 years now. Up to now I have always had excellent tight, very present bass from it. Lately, it has turned itself off during some heavy bass sections and had to be manually powered back on. So this morning I noticed that I am not getting nearly the same output of bass that I was getting before. It may be half of what it was before when especially listening to music. Doesn't matter what player or format I am using. DTS MA from my Sony 360 or SACD from my Oppo 980. Bass is enemic. I have checked the receiver setting and they are all the same as they were before. It's strange because I am getting output from the sub. It's just not the same. The kickdrums for instance now sound like anemic thuds where before they kicked me in the stomach. It's like some of the bass range is not being produced by the sub. Any ideas?

Hi,

I have had a CHT-12 for about 5 years now. Up to now I have always had excellent tight, very present bass from it. Lately, it has turned itself off during some heavy bass sections and had to be manually powered back on. So this morning I noticed that I am not getting nearly the same output of bass that I was getting before. It may be half of what it was before when especially listening to music. Doesn't matter what player or format I am using. DTS MA from my Sony 360 or SACD from my Oppo 980. Bass is enemic. I have checked the receiver setting and they are all the same as they were before. It's strange because I am getting output from the sub. It's just not the same. The kickdrums for instance now sound like anemic thuds where before they kicked me in the stomach. It's like some of the bass range is not being produced by the sub. Any ideas?

Hello
More than likely the problem is in the amplifier section (the back panel.) of your CHT12. Please give us a call at 408-465-2851

Hi,

I have had a CHT-12 for about 5 years now. Up to now I have always had excellent tight, very present bass from it. Lately, it has turned itself off during some heavy bass sections and had to be manually powered back on. So this morning I noticed that I am not getting nearly the same output of bass that I was getting before. It may be half of what it was before when especially listening to music. Doesn't matter what player or format I am using. DTS MA from my Sony 360 or SACD from my Oppo 980. Bass is enemic. I have checked the receiver setting and they are all the same as they were before. It's strange because I am getting output from the sub. It's just not the same. The kickdrums for instance now sound like anemic thuds where before they kicked me in the stomach. It's like some of the bass range is not being produced by the sub. Any ideas?

Assuming nothing has changed in your system and the problem is in the subwoofer, the most likely culprit would be failing electronics components. I would double check that night mode hasn't been activated on your receiver. Replacement electronics packs are available for this model. You can contact the parts department at 408-465-2824.

Need help hooking up your new subwoofer? Check out the VeloLounge article on connecting subwoofers to music and cinema systems.

http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subconnecting.aspx (http://www.velodyne.com/vlounge/subconnecting.aspx)

Hi,
I just purchased a Velodyne SPL1000, to work with my Marantz sr8002 receiver and two B&W 805s. The Marantz has a pure direct mode which I prefer for two channel stereo, but it loses the low end of the fronts and the lfe channel shuts off (so I lose low frequencies). As a solution could I use the pre L/R outs of the receiver into the L/R inputs of the sub, but using a Y connection for the L sub input so I can connect the L out of the pre and also the sub/lfe out into the L input of the sub (the lfe and pre out L will both share the same L sup input via the Y adapter)? Will this work and are there any advantages to keeping both the pre out and lfe out connected to the sub? Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi,
I just purchased a Velodyne SPL1000, to work with my Marantz sr8002 receiver and two B&W 805s. The Marantz has a pure direct mode which I prefer for two channel stereo, but it loses the low end of the fronts and the lfe channel shuts off (so I lose low frequencies). As a solution could I use the pre L/R outs of the receiver into the L/R inputs of the sub, but using a Y connection for the L sub input so I can connect the L out of the pre and also the sub/lfe out into the L input of the sub (the lfe and pre out L will both share the same L sup input via the Y adapter)? Will this work and are there any advantages to keeping both the pre out and lfe out connected to the sub? Thanks in advance for any help.

You could have issues if you have the subwoofer connected to two different inputs on the back of the Marantz. It would be better to either use an A/B switch to electrically isolate these connectors, or use the L/R pre-outs for both stereo and hometheater applications. All you would need to do is ensure your Left and Right speakers are set to large, and tell your system you have no subwoofer. Now the LFE will be routed into the left and right channels and into your subwoofer.

Thanks for the reply. So if I am not using pure direct, is the main advantage to using the LFE over the pre out the possibility that my receiver has a better crossover network than the sub? I can't imagine the difference would be significant...I haven't experimented yet.

Thanks for the reply. So if I am not using pure direct, is the main advantage to using the LFE over the pre out the possibility that my receiver has a better crossover network than the sub? I can't imagine the difference would be significant...I haven't experimented yet.

The use of your processors cross-over allows you to easily bi-amp your system. To do so with the pre-outs would require you to run the Velodyne's outputs back into the processors main-ins. This assumes your processor has pre-amp ins in addition to the outs.

OK, now I'm confused. How does this effect me bi-amping my fronts (which I do)? I thought all I was changing in the receiver/processor was setting fronts to large and no sub? I already had the fronts set at large, so by setting the receiver to "no sub" i can no longer bi-amp? Thanks.

OK, now I'm confused. How does this effect me bi-amping my fronts (which I do)? I thought all I was changing in the receiver/processor was setting fronts to large and no sub? I already had the fronts set at large, so by setting the receiver to "no sub" i can no longer bi-amp? Thanks.

Forgive me, I inaccurately described it as not bi-amped. If you connect the pre-outs to the subwoofer, and speaker wire to the left and right channel while telling your system you have no sub, and not returning the high pass output from the subwoofer back to the Marantz you would be using two amplifiers, but you would have double bass, often not desirable.

When the cross-over is engaged (pre-amp stage) in the processor frequencies above the cross-over point are amplified by your Marantz then go to your main speakers. Frequencies below the cross-over point are sent to the subwoofer and amplified by the subwoofer. This eliminates the double bass issue and frees main system amplifier power from having to try to create low bass.

If you tell your system you have no subwoofer and connect the left and right pre-outs from the Marantz into the Velodyne, you will utilize the Velodyne cross-over to determine which frequencies are amplified by the Velodyne. Connecting the hig-pass outputs back to the Marantz's inputs allows the remaining frequencies to be amplified by the Marantz for your left and right speaker to play. This too eliminates the double bass issue and frees main system amplifier power from having to try to create low bass.

OK thanks...that's more or less what I thought. By the way, I have my processor set to "both" so the low frequencies go to both the sub and LFE channel anyway...I havent noticed any negative issues, as the 805s do pretty well in my opinion on putting out frequencies to the 60-80 range. I seem to be OK with the double bass issue, and now that I have the Velodyne, I'm really enjoying the deep bass in my system. Thanks again for the help.

ps, I dont think I ever heard your opinion regarding using the lfe or pre outs in terms of what might provide better sound?

OK thanks...that's more or less what I thought. By the way, I have my processor set to "both" so the low frequencies go to both the sub and LFE channel anyway...I havent noticed any negative issues, as the 805s do pretty well in my opinion on putting out frequencies to the 60-80 range. I seem to be OK with the double bass issue, and now that I have the Velodyne, I'm really enjoying the deep bass in my system. Thanks again for the help.

ps, I dont think I ever heard your opinion regarding using the lfe or pre outs in terms of what might provide better sound?

In theory there should be no difference, but ultimately experimentation will yield the best results.

Rob, thanks for your replies.

Velodyne Customer support will be closed for the Holidays December 23rd and 24th. The service line will be staffed the week of Dec 26th.

No sound.
I have a Velodyne CHT-10 and a Yamaha RX-V665 receiver. After multiple permutations using one cable alone as well as a single-to-double jack adapter to accommodate the CHT-10 ports and exercising toggles and dials of the CHT-10, the best I can get at full volume is a very, very soft and low hum.
My attempts were coincident with music from an X-Box 360 video game that I'm guessing would produce a lot of bass.
The above mentioned unproductive but systematic toggling and dialing of phase shift and other data markers on the back of the CHT-10 is due to my complete and thorough ignorance of audio equipment.
I would sincerely appreciate any suggestions or ideas. Thank you.

I'm not sure if I typed my question in the correct field... sorry.

No sound.
I have a Velodyne CHT-10 and a Yamaha RX-V665 receiver. After multiple permutations using one cable alone as well as a single-to-double jack adapter to accommodate the CHT-10 ports and exercising toggles and dials of the CHT-10, the best I can get at full volume is a very, very soft and low hum.
My attempts were coincident with music from an X-Box 360 video game that I'm guessing would produce a lot of bass.
The above mentioned unproductive but systematic toggling and dialing of phase shift and other data markers on the back of the CHT-10 is due to my complete and thorough ignorance of audio equipment.
I would sincerely appreciate any suggestions or ideas. Thank you.

It maybe that you have a problem in the subwoofer's electronics pack. To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer is working you will hear the bass portion of the music, this means the problem is elsewhere in your system. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.

If there is a problem with your subwoofer please contact us, otherwise you will need to look at your Yamaha's settings.

Wow.
Thank you Rob. I connected a DVD to the CHT-10 as you instructed and the subwoofer worked very well. The problem involves the receiver.
Thank you so much.

-dokgreg

Wow.
Thank you Rob. I connected a DVD to the CHT-10 as you instructed and the subwoofer worked very well. The problem involves the receiver.
Thank you so much.

-dokgreg

The first thing I would suggest looking at is how the bass management system of your processor works. The problem have something to do with your speaker settings. Additionally look at the LFE gain setting. Some receivers with auto-level setting have a tendency to drop the gain down very low. Beyond that you may need to check with the manufacturer. Good Luck.

Rob,
When do the DD Plus subs start shipping to dealers?

Is the thru output of the DD18 the summed L&R of its input? Or is L in only L out, & so on?

Is the thru output of the DD18 the summed L&R of its input? Or is L in only L out, & so on?

Hey guy's
I currently have an Anthem MRX 700, with Paradigm Studio 20s v. 5, studio 10s and a cc490 center. I am currently using a HSU Stf-1. I am thinking about getting a new sub, and I am looking at the Velodyne optimum 8. Does anybody have any input on this sub? What will I gain in SQ if I buy this sub?

Hello Rob,
I'm considering buying a velodyne CHT-12Q, there are a few questions:
1. whether the velodyne CHT-12Q including discontinued products?
2. velodyne CHT-12Q in Indonesia is still U.S. CBU product?

Hello,

I have an Older VA 1210 Thats has front firing and downward firing subs. I have never even come across a sub I enjoy as much as this one. I now have a tear in the passive downward firing speaker, yes tears are flowing. Can anyone recommend to me where to get a replacement for this particular speaker! Any info on where, and as i look at it how to even do this? Its a shame to me to lose this sub as everything is still in great working order, except for the downward firing one obviously.

Also what in you new line would be comparable to this classic!! :)

Thanks

Rob....

I have a CT100 subwoofer that I love in my small room. It has worked flawlessly for over 10 years. Recently I started to notice distortion from the sub at my normal volume levels. I noticed that the green standby light was fashing in sequence with the distortion. I need to crank the receiver sub line output all the way up and increase the receiver master volume control way too loud to get the green light to stay on without the flickering on/off distortion. If I switch from standby to the Power On setting to have the sub on continuously, the green light is on with no flicker, no distortion, sound is fine. Seems like a loss of sensitivity issue here.
to keep Auto On activated

I took the sub's electonics out and there are two boards plus power transformer. One board has the controls and inputs attached to it, the other is the power amp.
My question is even though this CT100 is out of production can the electronics be repaired, if so, does one need to send the complete panel or just the boards. If just the boards can be sent in, does this sound like the smaller board with the controls attached to it has the loss of sensitivity issue?


Thanks,

Bob P.

Rob....

I have a CT100 subwoofer that I love in my small room. It has worked flawlessly for over 10 years. Recently I started to notice distortion from the sub at my normal volume levels. I noticed that the green standby light was fashing in sequence with the distortion. I need to crank the receiver sub line output all the way up and increase the receiver master volume control way too loud to get the green light to stay on without the flickering on/off distortion. If I switch from standby to the Power On setting to have the sub on continuously, the green light is on with no flicker, no distortion, sound is fine. Seems like a loss of sensitivity issue here.
to keep Auto On activated

I took the sub's electonics out and there are two boards plus power transformer. One board has the controls and inputs attached to it, the other is the power amp.
My question is even though this CT100 is out of production can the electronics be repaired, if so, does one need to send the complete panel or just the boards. If just the boards can be sent in, does this sound like the smaller board with the controls attached to it has the loss of sensitivity issue?

Thanks,

Bob P.

Wow this thread seems dead!!!! Nobody ever answers anybody's questions? Not a very good endorsement for this line of Subs!!

Rob,
When do the DD Plus subs start shipping to dealers?

They are shipping now.

Is the thru output of the DD18 the summed L&R of its input? Or is L in only L out, & so on?

The thru output jacks are not summed. These are the discreet full range signals fed into the left and right input jacks of the subwoofer without any processing. What every you plug into the left and right is what you get out of the thru-put. This is different than the output jacks which utilize a high-pass filter.

Hello Rob,
I'm considering buying a velodyne CHT-12Q, there are a few questions:
1. whether the velodyne CHT-12Q including discontinued products?
2. velodyne CHT-12Q in Indonesia is still U.S. CBU product?

The CHT-Q series is not a discontinued product. The CHT-Q series is the 230volt equivalent of the DEQ series in the US and Canada.

Hello,

I have an Older VA 1210 Thats has front firing and downward firing subs. I have never even come across a sub I enjoy as much as this one. I now have a tear in the passive downward firing speaker, yes tears are flowing. Can anyone recommend to me where to get a replacement for this particular speaker! Any info on where, and as i look at it how to even do this? Its a shame to me to lose this sub as everything is still in great working order, except for the downward firing one obviously.

Also what in you new line would be comparable to this classic!! :)

Thanks

While Velodyne no longer has parts for these passive radiators they can be replaced with after market diaphragms and radiators from virtually any reputable speaker repair shop. I can not recommend any businesses on this thread, but if you call us I can give you the web addresses for a couple.

The comparable subwoofer to the old VA series would be the DEQ series.

Rob....

I have a CT100 subwoofer that I love in my small room. It has worked flawlessly for over 10 years. Recently I started to notice distortion from the sub at my normal volume levels. I noticed that the green standby light was fashing in sequence with the distortion. I need to crank the receiver sub line output all the way up and increase the receiver master volume control way too loud to get the green light to stay on without the flickering on/off distortion. If I switch from standby to the Power On setting to have the sub on continuously, the green light is on with no flicker, no distortion, sound is fine. Seems like a loss of sensitivity issue here.
to keep Auto On activated

I took the sub's electonics out and there are two boards plus power transformer. One board has the controls and inputs attached to it, the other is the power amp.
My question is even though this CT100 is out of production can the electronics be repaired, if so, does one need to send the complete panel or just the boards. If just the boards can be sent in, does this sound like the smaller board with the controls attached to it has the loss of sensitivity issue?


Thanks,

Bob P.

The CT-100 amplifiers can be serviced. We do not remove the boards from the metal plate. There are two different amps used on the old CT-100. It would be best if you measure the dimensions of the metal plate those boards are attached to and give us a call.

Wow this thread seems dead!!!! Nobody ever answers anybody's questions? Not a very good endorsement for this line of Subs!!

I am sorry that I have not responded for a couple of days. I work Monday through Friday.

The CHT-Q series is not a discontinued product. The CHT-Q series is the 230volt equivalent of the DEQ series in the US and Canada.

Thanks for the reply.
Which country produced & assambled Indonesia's CHT-12Q?

Thanks for the reply.
Which country produced & assambled Indonesia's CHT-12Q?

All units, except the Digital Drive series, are designed and engineered in the US and built and assembled in China from a strict list of specified parts from specified suppliers, then run through an independent quality control check. The Digital Drive series subwoofers are assembled in the US.

I am sorry that I have not responded for a couple of days. I work Monday through Friday.

Thanks for replying, I just wanted some feedback in regards to your Optimum 8 sub. I was asking the members of this thread the improvement I would gain purchasing this sub over my HSU Stf1? I currently have a Anthem MRX 700, with Paradigm studio 20's 10's and cc490 center. I do not feel like dropping 2k for a new sub! I live in a1 bedroom apt. In NYC and the listening area is about 15 by 13 ft.

Thanks for replying, I just wanted some feedback in regards to your Optimum 8 sub. I was asking the members of this thread the improvement I would gain purchasing this sub over my HSU Stf1? I currently have a Anthem MRX 700, with Paradigm studio 20's 10's and cc490 center. I do not feel like dropping 2k for a new sub! I live in a1 bedroom apt. In NYC and the listening area is about 15 by 13 ft.

Hopefully someone will be able to comment for you, I am unable to make comments with regards to brand comparison and have never heard the HSU subwoofer. I can say the Optimum is very impressive.

Where in the Dallas, TX area can I actually go to audition a DD series sub ?
Also FYI the list of dealers on the website needs to be updated because Modia and Ed Kellum do not carry Velodyne at all.
Where can I find a MSRP list ?
If a MSRP list is not available to the general public will you PM me the MSRP of the DD-12, the DD12+, the DD-15, and the DD15+ ?

Where in the Dallas, TX area can I actually go to audition a DD series sub ?
Also FYI the list of dealers on the website needs to be updated because Modia and Ed Kellum do not carry Velodyne at all.
Where can I find a MSRP list ?
If a MSRP list is not available to the general public will you PM me the MSRP of the DD-12, the DD12+, the DD-15, and the DD15+ ?

Current MSRP pricing as of today (12/20/2010)
DD12 - $2999
DD12+ - $3499
DD15 - $3999
DD15+ - $4999

I will send you a PM with the contact information for our territory representative. They know the ever changing market place the best and are ultimately responsible for providing the dealer lists to us.

They are shipping now.


Are the DD-18 Plus subs shipping now?

Rob,

One last question on my Ct-100 sub....

Regarding the Auto-on standby switch, when the switch is set to standby mode should the the green light go out immediately (change to red) when a non-bass content appears in a song, or when a track on a CD ends? It would seem that there should be some delay in the sub going into standby mode during soft passages in say classical music. I see the sub going into standby mode immdiately after a bass note.

To simplify, after I remove any input signal to the sub should there be a delay of a second or more before it goes into standby mode?


Thanks,


Bob P.

Are the DD-18 Plus subs shipping now?

All DD plus subwoofers are available to ship.

Rob,

One last question on my Ct-100 sub....

Regarding the Auto-on standby switch, when the switch is set to standby mode should the the green light go out immediately (change to red) when a non-bass content appears in a song, or when a track on a CD ends? It would seem that there should be some delay in the sub going into standby mode during soft passages in say classical music. I see the sub going into standby mode immdiately after a bass note.

To simplify, after I remove any input signal to the sub should there be a delay of a second or more before it goes into standby mode?


Thanks,


Bob P.
The auto power circuit turns the subwoofer off when it has not received a signal for 10-15 minutes.

The auto power circuit turns the subwoofer off when it has not received a signal for 10-15 minutes.

Rob,

Thank for that reply!!

That finalized my problem that the CT-100 electronics are definitely bad. I just ordered the replacement amplifier assemby.




Bob P.

Thanks Rob I appreciate the MSRP and the PM you sent.

Glad to help.

Hey Rob,

will I be able to hear any difference between the VX-10 and VX-11?

Hey Rob,

will I be able to hear any difference between the VX-10 and VX-11?

No. There should be no audible difference between the VX-10 and the VX-11. The VX-11 is the VX-10 with a more energy efficient amplifier and slightly different coloring.

I have an SPL-800R that recently developed a problem, in that it barely produces any output, and what it does output is sputtery and choppy. At first I thought it might be the cone sticking due to a piece of debris in there somewhere. (I once owned a subwoofer from another manufacturer that developed a weird noise when it was only a couple of weeks old. Over the phone the chief engineer of the company talked me through unscrewing and removing the amp to look inside the cabinet. It turned out a couple of steel staples had dislodged from holding the fiber batting to the inside of the cabinet, and they were stuck to the magnet, rattling around whenever it hit certain frequencies. But I digress...)

On the SPL-800R, I can manually move the cone in and out, and it moves quite smoothly, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the driver. If I run the EQ on it, the sound is extremely raspy and the volume of the output is well below normal compared to when it worked properly. The attached file is a recording of what it sounds like doing the EQ ramp. (AVS Forum doesn't allow attaching MP3 files to posts, so I had to zip it.)

This subwoofer is used in a small desktop setup, and it has never been cranked loud like might be the case in a home theater.

The unit was manufactured in April 2005, so it is beyond the 5 year warranty period. Given that, I decided to open up it up and see if anything was obviously amiss. I unscrewed and pulled off the plate amp on the rear, and looked around inside, but nothing appeared abnormal. No detached wires, cracked components, or loose pieces, etc. I'm guessing it's some kind of circuit problem in the amp, but I'm not an electronics technician.

Ever encounter such a problem? Any other ideas what it might be? Any ideas how to fix it without spending an arm and leg?

I love how this sub sounds when it's working correctly, so I'd hate to have to replace it with something else.

Hi All,

Just grabbed a SMS-1 recently and I am trying to upgrade it to no avail.

I have a USB to Serial adapter running on Windows XP.

Device connects fine and the drivers are all working.

I powered up the unit with - + volume held and then fire up the software, everything looks like it works and it says completed, but then when I fire it up the main screen stil displays v2.1 and I cannot get the subsonic down below 15 so it must not have taken the update.

I have seen posts here about this, but no solutions written, only people saying, "Hey, I PMd you with info"

So what is the big secret, how can I fix this?

The thru output jacks are not summed. These are the discreet full range signals fed into the left and right input jacks of the subwoofer without any processing. What every you plug into the left and right is what you get out of the thru-put. This is different than the output jacks which utilize a high-pass filter.

Thank you very much for the info Rob!

I have an SPL-800R that recently developed a problem, in that it barely produces any output, and what it does output is sputtery and choppy.

Ever encounter such a problem? Any other ideas what it might be? Any ideas how to fix it without spending an arm and leg?

I love how this sub sounds when it's working correctly, so I'd hate to have to replace it with something else.

Hate to break it to you but I had an SPL1000 with an 04 date with similar problem. I just had to send it back to velodyne to have the amp replaced. And 2005 is actually longer then when I had it. They are awesome little machines though.

I have an SPL-800R that recently developed a problem, in that it barely produces any output, and what it does output is sputtery and choppy. At first I thought it might be the cone sticking due to a piece of debris in there somewhere.

On the SPL-800R, I can manually move the cone in and out, and it moves quite smoothly, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the driver. If I run the EQ on it, the sound is extremely raspy and the volume of the output is well below normal compared to when it worked properly. The attached file is a recording of what it sounds like doing the EQ ramp. (AVS Forum doesn't allow attaching MP3 files to posts, so I had to zip it.)

This subwoofer is used in a small desktop setup, and it has never been cranked loud like might be the case in a home theater.

The unit was manufactured in April 2005, so it is beyond the 5 year warranty period. Given that, I decided to open up it up and see if anything was obviously amiss. I unscrewed and pulled off the plate amp on the rear, and looked around inside, but nothing appeared abnormal. No detached wires, cracked components, or loose pieces, etc. I'm guessing it's some kind of circuit problem in the amp, but I'm not an electronics technician.

Ever encounter such a problem? Any other ideas what it might be? Any ideas how to fix it without spending an arm and leg?

I love how this sub sounds when it's working correctly, so I'd hate to have to replace it with something else.

My guess would be a problem with the electronics. We can service that for you. Either call us at 408-465-2851 with the serial number of your unit or you can download the return authorization request form (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/RMARequestForm.pdf) and send that in by email and we can get you taken care of that way.

My guess would be a problem with the electronics. We can service that for you. Either call us at 408-465-2851 with the serial number of your unit or you can download the return authorization request form (http://www.velodyne.com/vsupport/RMARequestForm.pdf) and send that in by email and we can get you taken care of that way.
Called and got an RMA from Pete. I'll be sending in the amp. Thanks.

Just letting you all know I will be on Vacation until Jan 3, 2011. I will have limited access to the internet but will check this thread occasionally. I apologize for any delay in response.

You can also call the Velodyne Customer Service Department at 408-465-2851. Velodyne will be closed December 23rd and December 24th for the holiday, but will re-open the week of December 27th through December 31st from 8am-4:30pm.

No. There should be no audible difference between the VX-10 and the VX-11. The VX-11 is the VX-10 with a more energy efficient amplifier and slightly different coloring.
Alright, I'll scratch the vx-11 off my list and go to the next level. So what would you recommend from the following as the next best thing from the my vx10 that I will hear a marked improvement:

Impact 10 or discontinued DLS-3750

Thanks Rob!

Alright, I'll scratch the vx-11 off my list and go to the next level. So what would you recommend from the following as the next best thing from the my vx10 that I will hear a marked improvement:

Impact 10 or discontinued DLS-3750

Thanks Rob!

Rob - Have you got to hear any their Impact series?

IMHO, I think the Impact Mini would outperform the VX11 and it's for the same price, plus it is smaller.

I honestly was not a fan of the Velodyne subs back when I owned a VRP-12 and I just sold my Outlaw LFM-1Plus to get something compact.

I knew it was going to very, very hard to get something to match the Outlaw in a compact sub. So I did some shopping, demo's and I was really wanting to get the Supercube III by DefTech, but after hearing it and for the selling price I was really, really down.

I then gave the Impact Mini a test and I am amazed what this sub delivers for the size of it. Most of all, I didn't even do a sub crawl and just put it into my entertainment cabinet, built a isolator pad for it and I am totally impressed!! I know I can get more out of it if I did do a sub-crawl, but for the location where it is at, i'm not changing nada. Best $300 I ever spent on a sub for it's size.

( corrected Ultra to Impact) ;)

I then gave the Ultra Mini a test and I am amazed what this sub delivers for the size of it. Most of all, I didn't even do a sub crawl and just put it into my entertainment cabinet, built a isolator pad for it and I am totally impressed!! I know I can get more out of it if I did do a sub-crawl, but for the location where it is at, i'm not changing nada. Best $300 I ever spent on a sub for it's size.
You're talking about the Impact-mini I assume? there's no ultra mini

You're talking about the Impact-mini I assume? there's no ultra mini

Thanks for correcting me, yes; I did mean Impact-Mini (no Ultra ;) )

Brain fart. lol

Well Im glad you gave us that review because I've always wondered how the Impact 10 or 12 is so if the mini impressed you that much, then the Impact 10 will do the job for me.

Is there a way to increase output of an optimum 10 besides corner loading (muddy)? because right now a $700 sub i'm A/B'ing plays much louder.

Is there a way to increase output of an optimum 10 besides corner loading (muddy)? because right now a $700 sub i'm A/B'ing plays much louder.
None that your other louder 700 sub can. If you're in So Ca sell the optimum 10 to me

None that your other louder 700 sub can. If you're in So Ca sell the optimum 10 to me

sure, I'll let it go for $1299.

I have had the Optimum 12 for about a year. When I initially purchased the sub I thought about getting 2 of them. I stuck with one for the time being and have the cops come to my house numerous times. I only have 2 houses near me with about 25 feet on each side. My house is about 1750 sq feet. Needless to say, but I am pretty impressed. I want to add a second but after the complaints the wife gets pissy everytime I mention it:)

Well Im glad you gave us that review because I've always wondered how the Impact 10 or 12 is so if the mini impressed you that much, then the Impact 10 will do the job for me.


I agree, the Impact mini is quite impressive for it's size and price point . Just keep in mind there are certain laws of physics we can not change. The larger sub will move more air, and in a larger room this will deliver more (pardon the pun) impact.

Is there a way to increase output of an optimum 10 besides corner loading (muddy)? because right now a $700 sub i'm A/B'ing plays much louder.

A couple of small things can make a big difference.

First check your LFE gain. Many people with systems that have automatic level settings have reported their LFE to be in the -5 to -8 dB range. Velodyne recommends running the LFE output at a neutral 0dB and using the subwoofer's volume control to adjust from their. If you are at 0dB you can increase a little, but I advise going beyond +5dB.

Second you can utilize a Y-splitter to feed the LFE into both the left and right inputs, this drops the input impedance resulting in more signal.

Third try adjusting the phase control on the subwoofer and placement of the subwoofer. Depending on how your room loads you might be experiencing room issue the equalizer is not able to overcome.

Finally consult the Optimum room sizing chart (http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/SizingCharts/Optimum_Room%20Sizing%20Chart.pdf) on the Velodyne website and ensure you have adequate subwoofer for the volume of space you are filling. Remember subwoofers are like air conditioners. You can buy a small one and put it in a big room, but it will not do a very good job cooling the room no matter how much you turn it up.

Second you can utilize a Y-splitter to feed the LFE into both the left and right inputs, this drops the input impedance resulting in more signal.



That did the trick. :)

Did anybody receive a DD+ subwoofer for Christmas?

Hey Rob. Will they discontinue the DD series?

sure, I'll let it go for $1299.
you're funny....reputable sellers on ebay are selling them for under 900, brand new sealed A class units

I have had the Optimum 12 for about a year. When I initially purchased the sub I thought about getting 2 of them. I stuck with one for the time being and have the cops come to my house numerous times. I only have 2 houses near me with about 25 feet on each side. My house is about 1750 sq feet. Needless to say, but I am pretty impressed. I want to add a second but after the complaints the wife gets pissy everytime I mention it:)
Oh yeah, the police came three times when i had the SPL 1000 & SPL1200II when I lived in a condo in LA. Condo and apt living sucks if you have a good sub, I don't miss that at all

My DPS 12" emits a low humming noise when the sub cord is connected to it, even when the other end is not connected to my receiver. It's constant even when its hooked up to my receiver and i have music on... same level of humming it never changes.....

Should I try to find a repair shop, if there even is any that deal with Velodyne in western Canada?

My DPS 12" emits a low humming noise when the sub cord is connected to it, even when the other end is not connected to my receiver. It's constant even when its hooked up to my receiver and i have music on... same level of humming it never changes.....

Should I try to find a repair shop, if there even is any that deal with Velodyne in western Canada?

If you are hearing a humming noise from just plugging in the power cord, then I would say that your sub is defective, and yes, I think you need to find a repair shop.

I was looking at a DEQ12R this afternoon and the surround looks like it is black foam.
Is that correct, or is it something else that will not deteriorate ?

Double post

Hey Rob. Will they discontinue the DD series?

The original DD has not been designated discontinued as of yet. Eventually everything gets discontinued though.

My DPS 12" emits a low humming noise when the sub cord is connected to it, even when the other end is not connected to my receiver. It's constant even when its hooked up to my receiver and i have music on... same level of humming it never changes.....

Should I try to find a repair shop, if there even is any that deal with Velodyne in western Canada?

Run a factory reset on the subwoofer by pressing rock-movies-jazz-games-games-jazz-movies-rock. Now see if the problem persists. If it does, try a different RCA cable, if the problem still persists I would advise letting service look at it.