Can I get an update on my RMA? I sent an email but got no response.

Thank you. :)

Hello ,

I have a velodyne DPS sub woofer, and when i connect it to my AV receiver it has a loud humming sound, no humm until i connect it to the sub.......any one have any ideas???

tried switching cables same problem.....also if i just connect the cable to the sub only a softer humming is heard ....then when i touch the back of the sub the humming grows fainter in sound.......love the sub but need some proffesional help i am frustrated

Hi, I have a DD12 subwoofer, and want to remote control it with iRule, by connecting an iTach to the external remote input on the DD, but does any of you know if the DD require 12volt input signal?
If so, I need to buy a GC-CGX cable from Global Cache.
:-)

I've been trying to find the right sub for my large living room. It's about 14 by 22, with open archways to the kitchen and the hall. The first sub I tried was a JBL ES250 12-inch sub, which had a lot of impact but was physically bigger than I was hoping for. I then tried a few different Velodyne subs - first the Impact 10, which I didn't like, the DLS3750, which was a lot better, but I didn't care for the looks or the size. Right now I'm trying a combination of a DEQ8-r, which I can fit behind my TV (it's in the corner of the room) and an Impact Mini, which I'm using as a second sub, about 8 feet from the corner of the room where the TV is. The Impact Mini, by itself, didn't cut it, but when used as a second sub with the DEQ8, it adds punch and fills out the room a bit. This combo still doesn't give me the deep presense of the JBL, but it's a decent combo.

Here's my dilema: while I got a great price on both units (I think) - the DEQ 8 for $279 direct from Velodyne and the Impact Mini from Fry's (last one) for $299 plus tax ($336), that brings me up to over $600 for an 8-inch and a 6.5 inch sub, while my initial budget was $200-$300!!

I'm wondering: am I better off spending $600 - or less - on something else entirely or will I get more bang for my buck with two small subs to fill out my room, rather than one higher-end sub? Again, I'd really prefer a sub with a small footprint. Ideally, I'd like to try the Mini-Vee 8-inch or 10-inch, but they are $799 and $999, making them both out of the question.

So here are my options with the subs I'm currently trying:

1 - just use the 12-inch JBL ($179 Amazon Lightening Deal price) and live with it's size and ugly shape

2 - Keep the DEQ8 and the Impact Mini ($600+) and bite the bullet on the $

3 - start over and go in a different direction

I'd greatly appreciate as much feedback as posssibe, as I have to make up my mind on the units I currently have in less than a week.

Many thanks!

I've been trying to find the right sub for my large living room. It's about 14 by 22, with open archways to the kitchen and the hall. The first sub I tried was a JBL ES250 12-inch sub, which had a lot of impact but was physically bigger than I was hoping for. I then tried a few different Velodyne subs - first the Impact 10, which I didn't like, the DLS3750, which was a lot better, but I didn't care for the looks or the size. Right now I'm trying a combination of a DEQ8-r, which I can fit behind my TV (it's in the corner of the room) and an Impact Mini, which I'm using as a second sub, about 8 feet from the corner of the room where the TV is. The Impact Mini, by itself, didn't cut it, but when used as a second sub with the DEQ8, it adds punch and fills out the room a bit. This combo still doesn't give me the deep presense of the JBL, but it's a decent combo.

Here's my dilema: while I got a great price on both units (I think) - the DEQ 8 for $279 direct from Velodyne and the Impact Mini from Fry's (last one) for $299 plus tax ($336), that brings me up to over $600 for an 8-inch and a 6.5 inch sub, while my initial budget was $200-$300!!

I'm wondering: am I better off spending $600 - or less - on something else entirely or will I get more bang for my buck with two small subs to fill out my room, rather than one higher-end sub? Again, I'd really prefer a sub with a small footprint. Ideally, I'd like to try the Mini-Vee 8-inch or 10-inch, but they are $799 and $999, making them both out of the question.

So here are my options with the subs I'm currently trying:

1 - just use the 12-inch JBL ($179 Amazon Lightening Deal price) and live with it's size and ugly shape

2 - Keep the DEQ8 and the Impact Mini ($600+) and bite the bullet on the $

3 - start over and go in a different direction

I'd greatly appreciate as much feedback as posssibe, as I have to make up my mind on the units I currently have in less than a week.

Many thanks!

The Optimum 8 is listed at $699 on Velodyne's site. Would probably be better than the two you have.

Other than that,if you need a small sub there is the SVS-SB12 $650, NHT 10d at $499, 12d $699, Emotiva X-ref subs at $500-$700.

You just have to give up some things for the small form factor.

So I have a strange question... does anyone know what model Velodyne this is? The backplate calls it a "Model 1200" from "2-23-89" XD

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/P1080018-1.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/P1080019-1.jpg

It's old, I know that much. :P But I recently received it from my uncle for free. It was working fine, but after we moved it it now produces this loud hum whenever turned on (regardless of source). I spoke to a representative, and he sent me the schematics for the Servo 1200. Is that what this is? It looks different than the Servos I've seen.

I figure it's probably a cap or something that needs re-soldered. I haven't opened it up yet, waiting for my dad so he can't blame me for breaking it haha.

EDIT: More/higher res photos can be found here @ Photobucket. (http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/)

I have 2 DD10s (2.2.0) that sound great, but here's the problem:

With music sources that don't have a .1 track the subs are very reluctant to turn on from Standby and often won't stay on. There's no problem with anything that has a .1 so what I'd do is flip to the cablebox input to jump start them. Then I got tired of that so I turned Standby to AutoON/OFF to Inactive and use the remote to turn each on.

1. I would like to trigger the subs with the 12v trigger from my AVR, as I do my external amp. But that connects using the standard mono miniplug cord. Is there a way to trigger each DD10? Perhaps there's a way to splice or adapt that cord to the RS 232 pins (I believe pins 7 & 9 trigger power?)

2. I currently have both subs set to Vol=8, as that is as hot as Audyssey wants them so that the don't play too much louder than 75dB with the built-in calibration test tone. As it is the sub ch trim in the AVR is -6.5! The next time I run a calibration I could turn each sub's vol control down by 2 dB to 6. That should increase the sub ch trim from the AVR from -6.5 to -4.5 and that may increase the signal enough to solve the problem.

3. I don't suppose leaving the subs ON all the time is a good solution at all. I'd be concerned about how much power a DD10 draws if idle but ON and if that will that decrease the life of the sub amp.

Gear details: sub outs 1 & 2 on my Denon AVR 4311(A100) are connected directly to the respective LFE input of each sub. Audyssey MultEQXT32 pings each sub for distance and volume. Audyssey then EQs the 2 subs together as one. I don't use the Velo EQ, I set the Low Pass to OFF and don't use the Velo daisy chain technique.

Any suggestions?

Hello Steve
In most cases we repair the amp, are you in the states?

No, I'm in Australia. We talked on the phone and you indicated I would have to send the amps for the HGS10s in.

Is it possible to have them converted to 240V while you are repairing them?

The Optimum 8 is listed at $699 on Velodyne's site. Would probably be better than the two you have.

Other than that,if you need a small sub there is the SVS-SB12 $650, NHT 10d at $499, 12d $699, Emotiva X-ref subs at $500-$700.

You just have to give up some things for the small form factor.


Thanks. I just picked up two open-boxed subs at Fry's to try - one is the Minivee 8 and the other is the Minivee 10. I definitely prefer the 10 - its just sounds cleaner and more musical than the 8. The Minivee 10 goes for $999 retail but I've seen it as low as $749 online (Vann's). At that price, am I better off with a Minivee 10 than the Optimum 8 for $699? I would imagine that the Optimum 8 is more flexible, with the eq, remote, etc., but wondering if it would it sound more like a Minivee 8 than a Minivee 10 (or better than either of those)...

Also, are places like Vann's or other 3rd party sellers ok? Would you stay away from eBay electronics stores? What about the one advertised at the top of this forum (audiophileliquidator.net)??

Thanks!!

John

I have 2 DD10s (2.2.0) that sound great, but here's the problem:

With music sources that don't have a .1 track the subs are very reluctant to turn on from Standby and often won't stay on. There's no problem with anything that has a .1 so what I'd do is flip to the cablebox input to jump start them. Then I got tired of that so I turned Standby to AutoON/OFF to Inactive and use the remote to turn each on.

1. I would like to trigger the subs with the 12v trigger from my AVR, as I do my external amp. But that connects using the standard mono miniplug cord. Is there a way to trigger each DD10? Perhaps there's a way to splice or adapt that cord to the RS 232 pins (I believe pins 7 & 9 trigger power?)

2. I currently have both subs set to Vol=8, as that is as hot as Audyssey wants them so that the don't play too much louder than 75dB with the built-in calibration test tone. As it is the sub ch trim in the AVR is -6.5! The next time I run a calibration I could turn each sub's vol control down by 2 dB to 6. That should increase the sub ch trim from the AVR from -6.5 to -4.5 and that may increase the signal enough to solve the problem.

3. I don't suppose leaving the subs ON all the time is a good solution at all. I'd be concerned about how much power a DD10 draws if idle but ON and if that will that decrease the life of the sub amp.

Gear details: sub outs 1 & 2 on my Denon AVR 4311(A100) are connected directly to the respective LFE input of each sub. Audyssey MultEQXT32 pings each sub for distance and volume. Audyssey then EQs the 2 subs together as one. I don't use the Velo EQ, I set the Low Pass to OFF and don't use the Velo daisy chain technique.

Any suggestions?

If your mains are set to large by Aud. then the subs are not receiving a signal with music. Set them to small and set a crossover frequency. You should be able to get a 1/8" Y connector if that is not the case.

If your mains are set to large by Aud. then the subs are not receiving a signal with music. Set them to small and set a crossover frequency...
Astute observation but the subs are indeed getting redirected bass even with stereo 2.0 sources, as all speakers have been reset to Small. The FR/L have a crossover of 40Hz (which also contributes to the issue of insufficient bass TO TRIGGER THE SUB ON for 2.0). I use an Audyssey Pro kit and it ranked 40 as the best crossover irt the "splice" with the mains. Therefore I'm inquiring about solutions that do not entail raising the crossover to 80.

Hi, I have a DD12 subwoofer, and want to remote control it with iRule, by connecting an iTach to the external remote input on the DD, but does any of you know if the DD require 12volt input signal?
If so, I need to buy a GC-CGX cable from Global Cache.
:-)

sending PM

Hello ,

I have a velodyne DPS sub woofer, and when i connect it to my AV receiver it has a loud humming sound, no humm until i connect it to the sub.......any one have any ideas???

tried switching cables same problem.....also if i just connect the cable to the sub only a softer humming is heard ....then when i touch the back of the sub the humming grows fainter in sound.......love the sub but need some proffesional help i am frustrated

Hello
In most cases the source of the problem that you are describing(humming no bass output.) will be found in the amplifier section (the back panel.) in which you can remove from the cabinet and send it into us for repair
please fill out & return the attached RMA request form so we may get the repair process started for you.

Just a quick quest, when I use the mic provided with my DD12, should the mic point upwards to the ceiling, or towards the subwoofer? - in my manual it only says, "place the mic in Your favorite listening place"
:-)

I called and spoke with Jeff today who tried to help me out. I have a SPL Series II 10'' and it makes a terrible scratching noise when it receives any audio signal (through LFE, or speaker line) Jeff thought it might be the driver and recommended that I remove the amp and power it normally. I did so and it works great.

Can you guys do a diagnostic on this one, or do you just recommend a replacement? I'm hoping it isn't too expensive. The driver was $300 plus shipping, but I was never able to get back through the phone later to find out about the amp.

Thanks!


EDIT: Nothing looks blown on the amp either. I did a pretty thorough check, no leaky capacitors, nothing popped, no liquid on the board, etc.


Would love to work with you guys to get this subwoofer up and running...


looked briefly and this is all I could find, assuming this is nearly identical? (http://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/electronic-parts/velodyne-minivee-amplifier/)

I called and spoke with Jeff today who tried to help me out. I have a SPL Series II 10'' and it makes a terrible scratching noise when it receives any audio signal (through LFE, or speaker line) Jeff thought it might be the driver and recommended that I remove the amp and power it normally. I did so and it works great.

Can you guys do a diagnostic on this one, or do you just recommend a replacement? I'm hoping it isn't too expensive. The driver was $300 plus shipping, but I was never able to get back through the phone later to find out about the amp.

Thanks!


EDIT: Nothing looks blown on the amp either. I did a pretty thorough check, no leaky capacitors, nothing popped, no liquid on the board, etc.


Would love to work with you guys to get this subwoofer up and running...


looked briefly and this is all I could find, assuming this is nearly identical? (http://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/electronic-parts/velodyne-minivee-amplifier/)

That's a problem in the amplifier. You have to ship it back to them and they'll repair it for $240.

Yup! Got the RMA today, and should be good to go!

Any new bass management system release on future ??

So I have a strange question... does anyone know what model Velodyne this is? The backplate calls it a "Model 1200" from "2-23-89" XD

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/P1080018-1.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/P1080019-1.jpg

It's old, I know that much. :P But I recently received it from my uncle for free. It was working fine, but after we moved it it now produces this loud hum whenever turned on (regardless of source). I spoke to a representative, and he sent me the schematics for the Servo 1200. Is that what this is? It looks different than the Servos I've seen.

I figure it's probably a cap or something that needs re-soldered. I haven't opened it up yet, waiting for my dad so he can't blame me for breaking it haha.

EDIT: More/higher res photos can be found here @ Photobucket. (http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/evenfall928/Velodyne%201200/)

Hello
Yes this is the servo 1200/ F1200
Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208

Any new bass management system release on future ??

Hello
No, not at the present time.


Thanks,

Pete

Quick vid of the little Velo pounding away. Such a clean sounding subwoofer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l73GTXSufmc&feature=g-upl&context=G2a96354AUAAAAAAAAAA

I have a defective DD-15 and looking for the service manual
have the ULD-15 / 18 service manual and it is not the same at all

Thanks

I have a defective DD-15 and looking for the service manual
have the ULD-15 / 18 service manual and it is not the same at all

Thanks

Hello
We do not provide service manual for the DD series.
Unlike the ULD The DD series product line is still a current AMP design and one that is patented service by Velodyne and our authorized services center
What the problem with the unit ?

Have a 15x24 slab basement with 7ft drop ceiling (figure roughly 2500-2600 sf). Is the Opt10 enough? Is there any benefit to going to the Opt12? Use is mostly HT, although I just got Revel Salon 2 as L/R and they have good but not great bass, so i may consider using sub occasionally for music. Do not recommend DD series as I am maxed out financially on the Salon 2 purchase, lol! Thanks...

IMO, at a minimum you need the Optimum-12 (two would be better). The Optimum is a sealed box design, so less efficient than a bass reflex design. It does sound great and will work very well with your speakers.
Curt

Does anyone have feedback on the Impact 10. Does it handle movies well even though it only goes down to 32Hz (spec-wise). Is the bass tight & accurate? I've read that the VX-11 is louder, but boomy.

Thanks!

Have a 15x24 slab basement with 7ft drop ceiling (figure roughly 2500-2600 sf). Is the Opt10 enough? Is there any benefit to going to the Opt12? Use is mostly HT, although I just got Revel Salon 2 as L/R and they have good but not great bass, so i may consider using sub occasionally for music. Do not recommend DD series as I am maxed out financially on the Salon 2 purchase, lol! Thanks...
I agree with Curt that a 12 inch Optimum would be better than the 10. With the 10 you are right on the edge of what it can do for theater reference output. The 12 would do a much better job of energizing the room. If you are looking to save some money, the Cherry finish is on closeout and this week there is an additional 15% off closeout items. This makes the 12 inch down right affordable.

Rob, just bought it yesterday. Have a question though. Will email you at Velodyne address

hello,

asked this in separate thread (with nor response :-) but then noticed this official Velodyne support thread so here it goes:

does the EQ-Max12 sub have the 110 volt / 220 volt input power switch?
EQ-Max15 seems to have it but is too big for my room. I am tempted to import Velodyne sub from US but would prefer not to use step up converter.

many thanks

Hello! I purchased 2 F-1500-b series subs brand new many years ago. Recently, within 60 days of each other, they both started making a horrible loud popping kind of sound and then produced a burning smell, and while they both still turn on, they don't really work and continue to make that sound (so of course I unplugged them as they failed). Can these be serviced still (I can pull out the amps), or can I install whatever part may be bad (I am good at electronics and would to just buy whatever component on the amp failed...I can certainly solder in the part)? I'm guessing this is a common problem since I bought them both brand new and they both did this within 60 days of each other. Thank you!

hello,

asked this in separate thread (with nor response :-) but then noticed this official Velodyne support thread so here it goes:

does the EQ-Max12 sub have the 110 volt / 220 volt input power switch?
EQ-Max15 seems to have it but is too big for my room. I am tempted to import Velodyne sub from US but would prefer not to use step up converter.

many thanks

Hello
All Velodyne products are now manufactured to be operated in the regions in which they were originally sold.

Hello! I purchased 2 F-1500-b series subs brand new many years ago. Recently, within 60 days of each other, they both started making a horrible loud popping kind of sound and then produced a burning smell, and while they both still turn on, they don't really work and continue to make that sound (so of course I unplugged them as they failed). Can these be serviced still (I can pull out the amps), or can I install whatever part may be bad (I am good at electronics and would to just buy whatever component on the amp failed...I can certainly solder in the part)? I'm guessing this is a common problem since I bought them both brand new and they both did this within 60 days of each other. Thank you!

Hello
If the woofer is going to full excursion while making the loud popping noise then the problem is more than likely the servo and is not repairable. If the woofer is not moving then the problem would be found in the amp. Please call us at 866.243.0789 so we can email the schematic

I am getting an SMS-1 from Velodyne. I have had Anti-Mode in my system for the past 3 years and wanted to try something different, so the SMS-1 is it. Anyway, on to my question.

Should I run MCACC EQ calibration before or after SMS-1 auto EQ?

With the Anti-Mode the general concensences was to run it before MCACC, but from what I read it seems more people run the receiver EQ before SMS-1.

I do plan on using manual EQ in the SMS-1 if necessary after using the auto function on it.

Thanks

I am getting an SMS-1 from Velodyne. I have had Anti-Mode in my system for the past 3 years and wanted to try something different, so the SMS-1 is it. Anyway, on to my question.

Should I run MCACC EQ calibration before or after SMS-1 auto EQ?

With the Anti-Mode the general concensences was to run it before MCACC, but from what I read it seems more people run the receiver EQ before SMS-1.

I do plan on using manual EQ in the SMS-1 if necessary after using the auto function on it.

Thanks

There is no real 100% correct answer, but if it was me, I would run auto on the SMS-1, then run your MCACC, then make any final tweaks required in the manual mode on the SMS-1.

^+1

MCACC does not EQ the sub channel so it makes sense to me to apply the sub correction before running MCACC. There are several guys on the Pio threads who used various bass EQ systems and could add some info based on their experience. But several have abandoned that hybrid approach to EQ and moved over to the superior, integrated DSP RC of MultEQXT32 in the Denon AVR4311, so can be found on that thread these days.

^+1

MCACC does not EQ the sub channel so it makes sense to me to apply the sub correction before running MCACC. There are several guys on the Pio threads who used various bass EQ systems and could add some info based on their experience. But several have abandoned that hybrid approach to EQ and moved over to the superior, integrated DSP RC of MultEQXT32 in the Denon AVR4311, so can be found on that thread these days.

MCACC does multi position standing waves down to 63Hz on the subwoofer though, hence my question as to which to run first. Also, MCACC accounts for the subwoofer level and distance as well.

There is no real 100% correct answer, but if it was me, I would run auto on the SMS-1, then run your MCACC, then make any final tweaks required in the manual mode on the SMS-1.

Thanks for your input :cool:

How would a optimum-12 do against a svs sb13-plus?

Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks

Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks

What cable did you use to connect it directly to the input on the back? Hopefully not a standard cable ??

I have an old FSR15B in which I am pretty sure the servo is bad. Is there any way to disconnect the servo feedback mechanism? The surround is in perfect shape so I know its not that. I'm pretty sure Velo doesn't support the product anymore so I think my only option is to disconnect it somehow.

I used a 3 ft audio cable 1/8" stereo male to male adaptor from radio shack.

Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks

Hello
Velodyne has tested and verified the IR input jack compatibility with the Xantech and Elan brand products.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How would a optimum-12 do against a svs sb13-plus?

An answer will need to come from another forum member, as Velodyne will refrain from commenting on other brands of subwoofers, especially open ended question that have answers that are subjective in nature.

i can understand that.

although i dont think all the info is subjective, the answer is no longer needed. thanks.

I have an old FSR15B in which I am pretty sure the servo is bad. Is there any way to disconnect the servo feedback mechanism? The surround is in perfect shape so I know its not that. I'm pretty sure Velo doesn't support the product anymore so I think my only option is to disconnect it somehow.

Hello
By removing the servo feedback you have no control over the distortion so the quality of sound will not be the same and you could blow the woofer.


Having said this,if you still want to disconnect the sevo:

1. Unplug the FSR15 from the electrical outlet

2.Remove the 8-10 screws around the preimeter

3. Unplug the 16 pins 1”x3” connector board from the main board

4. Pull the connector board out from the cabinet and disconnect the five pins green connector(servo)

Awesome. I'll try that. Thanks cat dog. As long as I don't go nuts with it I doubt I'll blow it.

I asked this before but just saw the official velodyne thread so I'll go ahead and put through the question for a Velodyne rep.

Hello,

I have an older Velodyne Servo F Series 10 subwoofer that I haven’t used in several years. I am about to hook it up to my Yamaha RX-V1000 receiver which has a subwoofer out jack on the back of the unit. The Velodyne has speaker level inputs and outputs as well as line level inputs and outputs. As I was going through the manual last night I noticed the following note in the sub manual.

“If your processor has a subwoofer out jack on it, in most cases it is best not to use it for connecting your velodyne” Instead we suggest that you connect your velodyne between the main or front speaker outputs of your processer and the amplifier that will drive them.”

As I understand it, they are instructing me to run speaker cable from my receiver to the inputs on the sub and then from the sub to my front speakers. I am considering upgrading my RX-V1000 to a Yamaha RX-A2010 receiver, would I still need to connect it through the speaker level connectors and if so will I lose anything that the new receivers provide?

Also will the subwoofer work properly with the newer receivers today?

Thanks for any help you can give.

I asked this before but just saw the official velodyne thread so I'll go ahead and put through the question for a Velodyne rep.

Hello,

I have an older Velodyne Servo F Series 10 subwoofer that I haven’t used in several years. I am about to hook it up to my Yamaha RX-V1000 receiver which has a subwoofer out jack on the back of the unit. The Velodyne has speaker level inputs and outputs as well as line level inputs and outputs. As I was going through the manual last night I noticed the following note in the sub manual.

“If your processor has a subwoofer out jack on it, in most cases it is best not to use it for connecting your velodyne” Instead we suggest that you connect your velodyne between the main or front speaker outputs of your processer and the amplifier that will drive them.”

As I understand it, they are instructing me to run speaker cable from my receiver to the inputs on the sub and then from the sub to my front speakers. I am considering upgrading my RX-V1000 to a Yamaha RX-A2010 receiver, would I still need to connect it through the speaker level connectors and if so will I lose anything that the new receivers provide?

Also will the subwoofer work properly with the newer receivers today?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Hello
Yes, the manual is instructing you to use the speaker level connection so that you don't use both crossovers(F1200 and the RX1000.) If your RX1000 has an adjustable crossover then set the F-1200 low pass crossover to it highest setting(100HZ.) Then set the RX1000 crossover to below 100Hz (80hz is usually is good place to start.) Yes the F-1200 will work with the newer receiver of today. Most receivers will have the adjustable crossover so that you can make the line level connection. If there isn't an adjustable crossover then use the speaker level connection. This will work with all audio systems.

Need some clarification on the SMS-1. Is the "self EQ" and the "Auto EQ" a different thing on the SMS-1? The Outlaw SMS guide makes mention that the "self EQ" is a 25 sweep function and the "auto EQ" is up to fifty sweeps. Is the "auto EQ" more thorough then?

Thanks

My RXV1000 does not appear to have a changeable crossover. There is a note in the receiver documentation that “The low frequency 90hz and below from all main, center, and rear speakers are directed to the lfe channel when you select the small speaker setting”.

So it sounds like I am locked in at the crossover point being 90hz. Am I best to set the crossover setting on the sub to 90 in that case, if I use the subwoofer out jack on the receiver and set the other speakers to small?

Thanks for the help
Mike

Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.

My RXV1000 does not appear to have a changeable crossover. There is a note in the receiver documentation that “The low frequency 90hz and below from all main, center, and rear speakers are directed to the lfe channel when you select the small speaker setting”.

So it sounds like I am locked in at the crossover point being 90hz. Am I best to set the crossover setting on the sub to 90 in that case, if I use the subwoofer out jack on the receiver and set the other speakers to small?

Thanks for the help
Mike

Hello Mike
Set the sub to it's highest(100hz)

Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.

The Digital Drive series subwoofers will have less distortion than the SPL Ultra series, along with a vastly more in depth room equalization system. In the case of the new Digital Drive Plus series they will also play louder and deeper than their SPL-Ultra equivalent. So, Louder, Deeper, Cleaner, with a full 8 band parabolic equalization system.

The Digital Drive series subwoofers have different remote codes from the SPL-Ultra.

Need some clarification on the SMS-1. Is the "self EQ" and the "Auto EQ" a different thing on the SMS-1? The Outlaw SMS guide makes mention that the "self EQ" is a 25 sweep function and the "auto EQ" is up to fifty sweeps. Is the "auto EQ" more thorough then?

Thanks
Yes Self EQ and Auto EQ are different.

Self EQ is the an automatic equalization mode that is independent of the rest of your audio system. Only the SMS-1 and the subwoofer are used for this EQ mode, with the SMS-1 sending sweep tones down the LFE output directly to the subwoofer.

The Auto EQ mode looks at your whole system. The SMS-1 sends sweep tones out the "EQ Output" jacks into your sound processor, through the processors bass management system, then measures not only the subwoofer's response but also the interplay with your main speakers across the crossover range. The SMS-1 then automatically adjusts 8 bands of equalization at fixed frequency points.

Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.the DD's are nice but they are really expensive. You can get an equivalent sub for a fraction of the price.

I bought a used Optimum 10 from an amazon retailer who says they tested it for 2 hours before shipping and it worked flawlessly for them. And it worked flawlessly for me for about 30 minutes and then i start getting an intermittent buzzing through the subwoofer. the sound is what we used to describe as teens in my car audio days as a blown speaker. just not a pleasant sound. Got to the point where that's all it would do, if anything at all. I've swapped 3 sets of interconnects, had it hooked to my krell preamp as well as my marantz pre-pro. same results. So, now I'm faced with shipping it back and risking the retailer claiming it works for them and sticking me with a 20% restocking fee. I guess my question is, should i just send it to morgan hill instead for repair? is this a common fault, or does anyone have any other suggestions for troubleshooting?

Rob,

I am thinking of using two of the SC-IF/IC subs with one SC-1250 amp for an install that I am planning. I will be mounting the subs in some hollow floor to ceiling columns.
A couple of questions, first are the left and right inputs dicreet to the left and right outputs? I want to know if I can use the Audyssey XT32 to set phase, etc. on the two seperate subs as they will be placed in two different positions in the room.
Also, as far as output and extension what other Velodyne powered subs can I compare these too? They will be in roughly a 4000cu ft. room.

Thanks!

I bought a used Optimum 10 from an amazon retailer who says they tested it for 2 hours before shipping and it worked flawlessly for them. And it worked flawlessly for me for about 30 minutes and then i start getting an intermittent buzzing through the subwoofer. the sound is what we used to describe as teens in my car audio days as a blown speaker. just not a pleasant sound. Got to the point where that's all it would do, if anything at all. I've swapped 3 sets of interconnects, had it hooked to my krell preamp as well as my marantz pre-pro. same results. So, now I'm faced with shipping it back and risking the retailer claiming it works for them and sticking me with a 20% restocking fee. I guess my question is, should i just send it to morgan hill instead for repair? is this a common fault, or does anyone have any other suggestions for troubleshooting?

This is not a common fault.

To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer is working you will hear the bass portion of the music, this means the problem is elsewhere in your system. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.

Rob,

I am thinking of using two of the SC-IF/IC subs with one SC-1250 amp for an install that I am planning. I will be mounting the subs in some hollow floor to ceiling columns.
A couple of questions, first are the left and right inputs dicreet to the left and right outputs? I want to know if I can use the Audyssey XT32 to set phase, etc. on the two seperate subs as they will be placed in two different positions in the room.
Also, as far as output and extension what other Velodyne powered subs can I compare these too? They will be in roughly a 4000cu ft. room.

Thanks!

The left and right inputs maintain stereo separation back through the outputs RCA jacks. This allows stereo separation to be maintained when daisy chaining devices or using the internal high pass filter.

Internally the left and right signals are summed, so two subwoofers hooked up to one SC-1250 operate in dual mono.

The SC IC/IF subwoofers contain 12 inch drivers. Two of these subwoofers can provide theater reference output in a room up to about 3600 cubic feet.

I recently acquired a ULD-18 ii in walnut. The foam surround looks to be in great condition for its age, maybe because it's been in AZ for most of its life, or maybe the surround was replaced. Regardless, there is a small tear in the foam, about a half inch long. I assume that would affect the performance, but I also wonder if operating the driver with the tear can cause more damage to the driver? Is there any way to repair it without replacing the foam? As for replacing, I've found sites that have Velodyne specific replacements for 15 size and smaller, but only generic replacements for 18's. What's my best bet, one of the custom makers? Does anyone have the measurements?

Finally, I would like to remove the driver and take a look inside. Is there any concern with doing so? Anything I should check for? I know the servo is connected because the cone tightens up when I turn the amp on.

This is a beautiful piece of equipment for being 20 years old. Thanks for the help.

Jason

I recently acquired a ULD-18 ii in walnut. The foam surround looks to be in great condition for its age, maybe because it's been in AZ for most of its life, or maybe the surround was replaced. Regardless, there is a small tear in the foam, about a half inch long. I assume that would affect the performance, but I also wonder if operating the driver with the tear can cause more damage to the driver? Is there any way to repair it without replacing the foam? As for replacing, I've found sites that have Velodyne specific replacements for 15 size and smaller, but only generic replacements for 18's. What's my best bet, one of the custom makers? Does anyone have the measurements?

Finally, I would like to remove the driver and take a look inside. Is there any concern with doing so? Anything I should check for? I know the servo is connected because the cone tightens up when I turn the amp on.

This is a beautiful piece of equipment for being 20 years old. Thanks for the help.

Jason

If the surround is compromised you will have problems as air leaks cause the servo to behave erratically. The only real solution is to have the surround redone by someone experienced with the special handling required on servo drivers. We can refer you to a couple places we know. Unfortunately there are no replacement drivers for this subwoofer.

If the surround is compromised you will have problems as air leaks cause the servo to behave erratically. The only real solution is to have the surround redone by someone experienced with the special handling required on servo drivers. We can refer you to a couple places we know. Unfortunately there are no replacement drivers for this subwoofer.

Please refer. Thanks!

Please refer. Thanks!

PM sent

Hi Velodyne Support,
Long time reader, first time poster!
I've been a happy owner of my DEQ-10R until yesterday when it refused to powerup.
Nothing shows on the display, checked the fuse, check cable, powered off completely and unplugged for a while and nothing.
Every single time I power up on the main switch, I hear (what maybe a contactor \ relay) a click, and nothing, when the mains are powered off the driver pops a beat then nothing.
I think the driver is fine and could be electronic related as nothing is shown on the display!
Please help!... I only bought this last year! (Mar 2011).
Thanks

Hi Velodyne Support,
Long time reader, first time poster!
I've been a happy owner of my DEQ-10R until yesterday when it refused to powerup.
Nothing shows on the display, checked the fuse, check cable, powered off completely and unplugged for a while and nothing.
Every single time I power up on the main switch, I hear (what maybe a contactor \ relay) a click, and nothing, when the mains are powered off the driver pops a beat then nothing.
I think the driver is fine and could be electronic related as nothing is shown on the display!
Please help!... I only bought this last year! (Mar 2011).
Thanks

I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your Velodyne subwoofer. We can service this for you, We likely won't need the whole subwoofer, but rather just the 7lb electronics pack. Please fill out and return the attached service request form. We will then provide instructions for the removal and shipping of the electronics pack.

The left and right inputs maintain stereo separation back through the outputs RCA jacks. This allows stereo separation to be maintained when daisy chaining devices or using the internal high pass filter.

Internally the left and right signals are summed, so two subwoofers hooked up to one SC-1250 operate in dual mono.

The SC IC/IF subwoofers contain 12 inch drivers. Two of these subwoofers can provide theater reference output in a room up to about 3600 cubic feet.

Thanks for the info Rob!

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,

I think Velodyne would admit this was a design error that slipped through into production. It's been corrected for new production but there's a number of DD+'s out there with this issue now, including my pair of DD18+'s. :( The simplest fix is to get hold of some XLR gender changers which are available from a number of manufacturers like Neutrik etc.

Just picked up a mint Velodyne SPL-1500R sub to go along with my old school Marantz SR4200 AV surround receiver. I have a cheap RCA Y connector cable, wonder if I should get a better cable or just leave as is? The cable I have now has one male plug going into the sub on the Marantz and the other end of the cable being a Y connection male into red and white input (LFE) on the Velodyne. I hope I have this connection correct.....any help would be great - thanks

A decent (not expensive) coax sub cable from Monoprice or BlueJeans (forum sponsors, see links above) is a good idea as it will reject spurious signals much better than that cord. The single RCA line-level sub out on the processor connects to the single RCA input on the sub labelled LFE. (There's two on the sub for processors which use stereo output.)
Consult your OM to confirm.

A decent (not expensive) coax sub cable from Monoprice or BlueJeans (forum sponsors, see links above) is a good idea as it will reject spurious signals much better than that cord. The single RCA line-level sub out on the processor connects to the single RCA input on the sub labelled LFE. (There's two on the sub for processors which use stereo output.)
Consult your OM to confirm.

Thanks so much - so all I really need is just one cable (single male on both ends) from Marantz to LFE on the sub?

^Yes, that is typical.

But I don't have either piece of gear and have not searched for the respective OMs, so I'm assuming the Marantz has a single mono RCA line-level sub out like most older surrround processors. And I'm assuming your Velo is like my DD10 irt connections. Once you've read the connections section in both OMs, if that doesn't seem correct, then repost.

BTW I see you've posted about replacing that Marantz. Word to the wise: get the best Audysey processing you can afford in that new model. Marantz' sister company Denon (of DAM holdings), has very high-value AVRs with the best Audyssey implementations. See this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=21785275#post21785275).

^Yes, that is typical.

But I don't have either piece of gear and have not searched for the respective OMs, so I'm assuming the Marantz has a single mono RCA line-level sub out like most older surrround processors. And I'm assuming your Velo is like my DD10 irt connections. Once you've read the connections section in both OMs, if that doesn't seem correct, then repost.

BTW I see you've posted about replacing that Marantz. Word to the wise: get the best Audysey processing you can afford in that new model. Marantz' sister company Denon (of DAM holdings), has very high-value AVRs with the best Audyssey implementations. See this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=21785275#post21785275).

My current (old school) setup is as follows: (2) rear WH 2 series Wharfedales, (1) WH 2 centre, (2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers), Marantz SR4200 receiver, & Velodyne SPL-1500R sub. The only thing I want to upgrade is the receiver. Friend of mine has a mint in box Marantz SR7001 that I can get for $400-$450. I do not want to spend anything more than that for any receiver. Thanks

Well, we're OT here so I suggest you start a thread of your own with that info or post it right on the Denon xx12 thread I linked to above so you can get some advice from others. Also add this link (http://us.marantz.com/DocumentMaster/US/DFU_SR7001_SR8001_final_eng.pdf)to the SR7001 OM so those interested can view the features. Looking at the OM, that AVR has been left in the dust as things move fast in HT. It does not support the new HiRes Blu-Ray codecs such as Dolby True HD and it only has basic Audyssey MultEQ. No way I'd spend hundreds on that!

From the FAQ post #2 of that thread:
"AVR-2112ci (90 watts x 7.1 channels) - $649 msrp

The AVR-2112ci is the best of all worlds in this tier of 6-HDMI, 90W/7ch units. It is essentially a souped-up 1912, stepping up to MultEQ XT while retaining the USB, networking, video conversion, and adding a few bonus features. The 2112ci really hits a sweet spot this year in terms of features for the pricepoint, adding some nice extras over the 1912 at only $100 more msrp, while being a full $200 below the next model (2312ci).

Official batpig advice: Stepping up to the 2112ci from the 1912 is a no-brainer!! Even if you don't give a crap about the CI stuff, getting MultEQ XT, the save/load option, and the extra year of warranty is worth the small marginal cost increase.

Stepping up from the 1912 to the 2112ci adds:
* MultEQ XT instead of regular MultEQ
* An extra year of warranty (CI models get 3 years warranty instead of 2)
* Extra functionality in the web control function, adding a "Setup Menu" section in which you can:
--- SAVE and LOAD configurations to a networked computer
--- Access the full GUI on your web browser, including the "Audio Adjust", "System Setup", and "Information" menus
* The "CI" features for superior control and integration:
--- Zone 2 pre-outs (so you don't have to sacrifice 7.1 to add multizone speakers)
--- RS-232 port for integrating with serial control systems
--- Room-to-room IR jack for hard-wiring a remote control (e.g. from another room or to hide gear in a closet)"


This new, packed with features (and better Audyssey room correction EQ) AVR is available from authorized dealers in your price range with 3 yrs OEM warranty. Happy hunting!

I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your Velodyne subwoofer. We can service this for you, We likely won't need the whole subwoofer, but rather just the 7lb electronics pack. Please fill out and return the attached service request form. We will then provide instructions for the removal and shipping of the electronics pack.

Thanks Rob,

I've sent a PM.

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?


Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,

Hello
Sending PM

Just bought a non-working SPL Series II 8in sub. I am not getting sound at all using either line level or speaker level inputs. The amp seems to be getting power since the pretty blue light lights up when it gets the signal but I do not get any sound at all. What is the best way to check if it is the driver or the amp. I already checked the fuse and did a visual on the amp. Nothing really obvious. BTW, my other sub work just fine using the same cable.

Just bought a non-working SPL Series II 8in sub. I am not getting sound at all using either line level or speaker level inputs. The amp seems to be getting power since the pretty blue light lights up when it gets the signal but I do not get any sound at all. What is the best way to check if it is the driver or the amp. I already checked the fuse and did a visual on the amp. Nothing really obvious. BTW, my other sub work just fine using the same cable.
The Velodyne SPL series woofers are typically pretty robust. The Driver usually does not have problems in this series of product.
If you have the amplifier pulled out of the sub, you can check the speaker by connecting the speaker leads to another amp to see if you get sound.
If you do get sound, you will mean that the problem is in the amplifier. The amplifier of the SPL series of subwoofer can be repaired.
Contact me at service@velodyne.com.
Regards,

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2827 Fax: (408) 779-9208

Thanks. I'll do it this weekend.

Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

The Velodyne SPL 1500R has an auto sensing circuit. If you look at the back of the subwoofer there is a switch that allows you to have the sub auto detect if there is signal on the input of the subwoofer.

If signal is present, the subwoofer will turn on (if this switch is in the auto position). If no signal is present for 15 minutes, the subwoofer will go into standby.

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208
visit us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @VelodyneAudio
Email:jdavis@velodyne.com

The Velodyne SPL 1500R has an auto sensing circuit. If you look at the back of the subwoofer there is a switch that allows you to have the sub auto detect if there is signal on the input of the subwoofer.

If signal is present, the subwoofer will turn on (if this switch is in the auto position). If no signal is present for 15 minutes, the subwoofer will go into standby.

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208
visit us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @VelodyneAudio
Email:jdavis@velodyne.com

I will leave it switched to active (will turn to standby when not in use). Thank you:D

Has anyone else encountered an issue with the latest DD+ subs which have been fitted with a revised power supply board that meets the new 0.5W standby power regulations? This only applies to comparatively recent production, I think.

With this new board, it largely doesn't matter how you set the auto-on/off setting - active, inactive or 12V trigger. If the sub receives no signal, or a signal below its sensing threshold, for about 10 mins or more, it completely shuts down. Video output goes off. And the sub won't wake from this state when it receives a signal above its sensing threshold. For all intents and purposes it is off until you press the On button on the remote again. That is once you realise that you are missing any deep bass!

This is really irritating when you are listening to music or fumbling around in the dark to find the remote control to turn the thing back on in a movie when you've just missed out on some sudden piece of bass impact!! Assuming my DD18+ is not actually faulty - I don't believe it is from an email exchange with Chris Hagen - Velodyne really need to redesign the working of this functionality as it's pretty much unusable. :(

Anyone else noticed this?

^My DD10s tend to fall asleep during non-LFE content because of the particular bass management settings in my processor. I posted on this above. Basically, I did not turn the subs vol controls down enough during autosetup with my Denon AVRA100 (4311), so the sub ch trim is negative, which attenuates the level of the signal coming to the subs. This is aggravated by my setting the xover on FR/L to a low 40Hz, which further reduces the content in the sub ch. I am going to turn the subs down next time I do autosetup and if that doesn't work I may raise the xover as well. Hopefully you can make some bass management settings changes that will decrease the problem.

^My DD10s tend to fall asleep during non-LFE content because of the particular bass management settings in my processor. I posted on this above. Basically, I did not turn the subs vol controls down enough during autosetup with my Denon AVRA100 (4311), so the sub ch trim is negative, which attenuates the level of the signal coming to the subs. This is aggravated by my setting the xover on FR/L to a low 40Hz, which further reduces the content in the sub ch. I am going to turn the subs down next time I do autosetup and if that doesn't work I may raise the xover as well. Hopefully you can make some bass management settings changes that will decrease the problem.

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue. If they are older DD10+'s youu may still be able to do the above. However, for the latest production, I think you will find you have the same issue as me.

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels. Ideally you wouldn't want to set the sub volume any lower than "unity gain". From memory this is around 15-20 (Velodyne support should be able to confirm an exact figure) , although the default from factory settings is 30, I think. If you have the sub volume normally set in single digits, then I think you are asking for trouble and loud peaks may end up distorted in a way that the servo is unable to correct for.

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue...

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels..

Right, they are older DD10s and that is exactly what I'm doing, either turning them off and on with the remote, or just leaving them on. I was told by CS via PM that either way is fine; current draw from ON at rest is not much more than standby for this model and it does not affect the life of the unit significantly.

As to overdriving the sub input, that is not likely unless I get into significant pos territory on the sub ch trim in the processor. I am at -6 so I have considerable "headroom". I am currently at Vol=8 on both subs and I plan on reducing it to 6 next run. Again, advised on that by CS via PM. YMMV.:)

Has anyone else encountered an issue with the latest DD+ subs which have been fitted with a revised power supply board that meets the new 0.5W standby power regulations? This only applies to comparatively recent production, I think.

With this new board, it largely doesn't matter how you set the auto-on/off setting - active, inactive or 12V trigger. If the sub receives no signal, or a signal below its sensing threshold, for about 10 mins or more, it completely shuts down. Video output goes off. And the sub won't wake from this state when it receives a signal above its sensing threshold. For all intents and purposes it is off until you press the On button on the remote again. That is once you realise that you are missing any deep bass!

This is really irritating when you are listening to music or fumbling around in the dark to find the remote control to turn the thing back on in a movie when you've just missed out on some sudden piece of bass impact!! Assuming my DD18+ is not actually faulty - I don't believe it is from an email exchange with Chris Hagen - Velodyne really need to redesign the working of this functionality as it's pretty much unusable. :(

Anyone else noticed this?

PM sent

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue. If they are older DD10+'s youu may still be able to do the above. However, for the latest production, I think you will find you have the same issue as me.

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels. Ideally you wouldn't want to set the sub volume any lower than "unity gain". From memory this is around 15-20 (Velodyne support should be able to confirm an exact figure) , although the default from factory settings is 30, I think. If you have the sub volume normally set in single digits, then I think you are asking for trouble and loud peaks may end up distorted in a way that the servo is unable to correct for.

Interesting since Audyssey will not allow me to move the volume up from the single digits without warning that the sub is too hot. If I turn up the volume after running Audyssey, the subs are too hot. Long and short I have had DD-15's on single digit volume for over a year and have not had abnormal behavior or behavior any different when I had them at volume 33 prior to Audyssey.

Where did you get your information? Do you have links so I can research?

Thanks!

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,


Hello Velodyne experts,
I'm a DD12+ owner and I've noticed the same issue.
What do you suggest to solve it?
Thanks

Hello Velodyne experts,
I'm a DD12+ owner and I've noticed the same issue.
What do you suggest to solve it?
Thanks

Are you in the US or in Europe?

All subwoofers with an auto on/off will go into standby when there is insufficient signal. Sometimes this is a result of settings, sometimes it is a result of the material being listened too. For example, when I am watching a TV show like the evening news there just is not that much bass below 80 Hz, hence my DD plus subwoofers enter the standby mode. Then if I change the channel or a commercial with loud bass comes on, so do the subwoofers. This is normal for Velodyne subwoofers in North America.

Recently regulations were imposed in Europe requiring electronics in the standby mode to draw no more than 1/2 watt. This imposed feature was introduced in the Digital Drive plus. Because the 1/2 watt is not enough power for the controller board, the auto signal sensing becomes disabled. This means the user must use the remote control to power on the subwoofers. We are looking at ways to eliminate this issue, currently the only way around this is for owners in Europe that experience this issue is to utilize the 12 volt trigger which will override the standby feature.

Hello Rob,

I'm in Europe,

however in my previous post I was referring to the female XLR high pass outputs issue.
Thanks.

Hello Rob,

I'm in Europe,

however in my previous post I was referring to the female XLR high pass outputs issue.
Thanks.

Wow...Did I not read the post before answering...lol. OK phail for me.

So yes, the earliest version of the amplifier panels came with all the XLR connections the same. This has been changed on subsequent production runs. A set of adapters will solve this issue.

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue. If they are older DD10+'s youu may still be able to do the above. However, for the latest production, I think you will find you have the same issue as me.

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels. Ideally you wouldn't want to set the sub volume any lower than "unity gain". From memory this is around 15-20 (Velodyne support should be able to confirm an exact figure) , although the default from factory settings is 30, I think. If you have the sub volume normally set in single digits, then I think you are asking for trouble and loud peaks may end up distorted in a way that the servo is unable to correct for.

Rob Morse, do you have anything to say about what CJ wrote?

Rob Morse, do you have anything to say about what CJ wrote?

This was the issue to which I was referring to when I mentioned the 1/2 watt standby.

On the second part of his statement regarding input signal, it is true it is possible to send too much signal to the input of the subwoofer which can cause signal clipping. I recommend using the neutral 0dB gain on the LFE channel, if you add gain I would refrain from going beyon +5dB. This should still allow ample head room.

Optimizing the auto on/off performance is all about finding the balancing act of inbound signal to outbound signal. If you have too much input signal and your sub volume is set too low it may not trigger, just the same as if you have too little input signal coming in. Ideally you are looking to find a setting where the subwoofer volume on the DD+ is between 10-30 volume.

It should also be noted that there is a trim pot on the DD+ that can reduce the amount of input signal going into the subwoofer. This could cause you to mistakenly think you are sending more input signal to the subwoofer than the subwoofer is actually receiving.

Another trick is to experiment with the use of a Y-splitter. This will effect the signal strength the subwoofer is seeing. Some people find the subs work better with them, and others find they work better without. Its just another tweak to try when dialing in your system.

Finally consider your crossover setting. If your setting your LFE to 60Hz or 40Hz because your main speaker play deep, you need to accept that very little signal is being sent to the subwoofers. Consider setting your crossover between 80-120Hz. Remember that setting your crossover at 100Hz with a 12dB/octave slope is still going to send extended bass to your mains. The signal will only be 12dB down at about 50Hz. But the increase in crossover point will allow more signal to get to the subwoofer reducing the likelihood it will go into standby.

^^^

Thanks Rob. So should I scrap the Audyssey settings, go into my Denon, adjust to zero and then calibrate the sub from there with an SPL meter...hopefully hitting the 10-30volume range?

^That would work more or less, but to insure reference bass levels, you would need an accurate way to measure the sub. Many report the commonly used affordable SPL meters like RS brand are not accurate measuring absolute levels in the bass. (Those meters are useful to compare say, FR to FL)

Therefore it is better to adjust the sub's vol control w/i that 10-30 range and then rerun Audyssey/Autosetup. Do the minimum mic positions (usually 1 or 3), calculate and check the setting of the trim in the sub channel to see if it's pretty close to 0 (-5 to +3). Repeat adjusting the sub vol control and rerunning Audyssey as needed, then run the full max # mic position calibration.

^That would work more or less, but to insure reference bass levels, you would need an accurate way to measure the sub. Many report the commonly used affordable SPL meters like RS brand are not accurate measuring absolute levels in the bass. (Those meters are useful to compare say, FR to FL)

Therefore it is better to adjust the sub's vol control w/i that 10-30 range and then rerun Audyssey/Autosetup. Do the minimum mic positions (usually 1 or 3), calculate and check the setting of the trim in the sub channel to see if it's pretty close to 0 (-5 to +3). Repeat adjusting the sub vol control and rerunning Audyssey as needed, then run the full max # mic position calibration.

Thank you SoM. I'll give it a try this weekend.

I agree there is a bunch of back an forth to really dial in the sub perfectly. If you don't have a sound meter and want the cheap down and dirty, close enough for government work solution...

Run the DD's real time response graph with with the sub muted and adjust your amplifier's volume so the signal response is in the 70-75dB range, then run the Auto EQ+ set up.

Next adjust the subwoofer volume to between 15-20 and run Audyssey.

Finally adjust the LFE gain to the target range and adjust the subwoofer volume to your prefered listening level.

Wow...Did I not read the post before answering...lol. OK phail for me.

So yes, the earliest version of the amplifier panels came with all the XLR connections the same. This has been changed on subsequent production runs. A set of adapters will solve this issue.

It seems my DD10+ also has female XLR connections. Are you sending the set of adapters to customers due to design error?

And please public response, no PM, thank you.

It seems my DD10+ also has female XLR connections. Are you sending the set of adapters to customers due to design error?

And please public response, no PM, thank you.

Velodyne is not distributing adapters to customers. Only individuals utilizing the output XLRs are affected, those who are connecting from the LFE out of their processor to the LFE in on the subwoofer have no issue. If you are one of the select few that will be using those XLR output jacks, you may have the electronics pack serviced under the manufacturers warranty.

How would you compare the eq max 15 to the optimum 12 for deep crisp ht usage as well as fast hard hitting music. The room will be approximately 3000 cu. Ft.

Hi all. Im in the market to pick up a DD12+. My room is about 2500cf, and I'm wondering what is everyones thoughts on this sub as there are not many reviews on the 12 that I could find. Also any idea on what the sell for used, in mint condition as opposed to buying new. (What would be a good price)

Thanks in advance
Joe

How would you compare the eq max 15 to the optimum 12 for deep crisp ht usage as well as fast hard hitting music. The room will be approximately 3000 cu. Ft.

Both the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 and the Optimum 12 are rated for room volumes of 4582 cu ft (EQ-Max 15) and 4270 cu ft (Optimum 12). Either one of these would be fine for a room of 3000 cu ft.

The Velodyne EQ-Max 15 is a ported subwoofer design, while the Optimum 12 is a sealed subwoofer design. The sound of the ported style enclosure is deep and punchy, while the sealed style of enclosure is deep and tight.
Both of these subwoofers will sound great, but which one you will like is subjective. You should try listing to these models at a local dealer in your area.


Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208

... We are looking at ways to eliminate this issue, currently the only way around this is for owners in Europe that experience this issue is to utilize the 12 volt trigger which will override the standby feature.

For information, I just tried this and it still doesn't override the 0.5W board. i.e., the sub still shuts down after 10-15 mins with little or no signal. It gives me another way of re-awakening it though! :p

Hi all. Im in the market to pick up a DD12+. My room is about 2500cf, and I'm wondering what is everyones thoughts on this sub as there are not many reviews on the 12 that I could find. Also any idea on what the sell for used, in mint condition as opposed to buying new. (What would be a good price)

Thanks in advance
Joe

Any advice from some DD12+ owners. It would be greatly appreciated as I can't find anywhere to demo one.

Thanks

For the fist time watchn a blu-ray with my new Velodyne SPL-1500R, holy cowwwwwwwwwwwwwww. Watched Wall-E. That beast could shake a tank;). Awesome, so glad I got it (paid $350 for it new, lucky me). I never had a sub with my surround sound setup before, boy was I missing

For the fist time watchn a blu-ray with my new Velodyne SPL-1500R, holy cowwwwwwwwwwwwwww. Watched Wall-E. That beast could shake a tank;). Awesome, so glad I got it (paid $350 for it new, lucky me). I never had a sub with my surround sound setup before, boy was I missing

Wow, $350.00. That is an awesome sub. At that price I'll take 4.....LOL

Velodyne is not distributing adapters to customers. Only individuals utilizing the output XLRs are affected, those who are connecting from the LFE out of their processor to the LFE in on the subwoofer have no issue. If you are one of the select few that will be using those XLR output jacks, you may have the electronics pack serviced under the manufacturers warranty.

In that case will be replaced only the female XLR outputs or the whole amplifier backplate?
Thanks.

In that case will be replaced only the female XLR outputs or the whole amplifier backplate?
Thanks.

That is at the discretion of the service provider.

For information, I just tried this and it still doesn't override the 0.5W board. i.e., the sub still shuts down after 10-15 mins with little or no signal. It gives me another way of re-awakening it though! :p

Have you turned on the 12volt trigger option from the subwoofer's menu?

Have you turned on the 12volt trigger option from the subwoofer's menu?

Yes. In point of fact, the subwoofer responds to the 12V trigger in terms of coming on/off irrespective of the setting on menu page 2. I've tried it with the setting at "12V Trigger" and "Inactive". In either case, it stubbornly shuts down after 10-15 mins with no signal.

You can then re-awaken the sub with the remote or by toggling the 12V trigger.

Hi all. Im in the market to pick up a DD12+. My room is about 2500cf, and I'm wondering what is everyones thoughts on this sub as there are not many reviews on the 12 that I could find. Also any idea on what the sell for used, in mint condition as opposed to buying new. (What would be a good price)

Thanks in advance
Joe

Is there anyone that can lend a bit of in-site? It would be much appreciated.

Is there anyone that can lend a bit of in-site? It would be much appreciated.

I'm a DD12+ owner. My room is about 54 mc ( it should be about 1900 cf). There the 12" IMHO works great. Fast, punchy, deep powerful bass capable, both in ht and stereo listening. Obviously the prerequisite is a good room equalization, and a careful blend with your mains.
For price advices, sorry, I can't help you all that much: I'm in Europe (Italy), and here the prices are higher than in US.
Bye

I'm a DD12+ owner. My room is about 54 mc ( it should be about 1900 cf). There the 12" IMHO works great. Fast, punchy, deep powerful bass capable, both in ht and stereo listening. Obviously the prerequisite is a good room equalization, and a careful blend with your mains.
For price advices, sorry, I can't help you all that much: I'm in Europe (Italy), and here the prices are higher than in US.
Bye

Thanks for the response. I have a dd15 that I'm looking to replace with the new DD12+. From what I read on there site, it supposed to match the output of the original dd15.

Joe

@ PlatinumSV

If the levels are comparable with those of DD15 I can't say it for sure (I owned a DD10). What I surely know is that in the conditions I previously summarized and with the subwoofer volume set to "10" and an LFE output level (on my pre-pro) set to -4.5 dB I'm really satisfied and, if needs, there is still enough headroom to increase levels and impact. However all DD+ series is designed to go deeper and with more SPL in the very low frequency range (approx 10 - 30 Hz) in respect the old DDs.
Bye.

Yes. In point of fact, the subwoofer responds to the 12V trigger in terms of coming on/off irrespective of the setting on menu page 2. I've tried it with the setting at "12V Trigger" and "Inactive". In either case, it stubbornly shuts down after 10-15 mins with no signal.

You can then re-awaken the sub with the remote or by toggling the 12V trigger.

We have duplicated your results and are currently working on a solution for you and your distributor.

Hi all. Im in the market to pick up a DD12+. My room is about 2500cf, and I'm wondering what is everyones thoughts on this sub as there are not many reviews on the 12 that I could find. Also any idea on what the sell for used, in mint condition as opposed to buying new. (What would be a good price)

Thanks in advance
Joe

The DD12+ is recommended for rooms up to 5000 Cubic Feet.

F1200 with broken Volume:

I have an F1200 from 1997 with a touchy volume knob that has just gone from only working with the knob set at certain volume levels, to the sub only producing sound while the knob is actually being rotated. I know I should just be happy that I have got so many years out of my sub, but the only thing broken is a small attenuator soldered to the board and it seems silly to trash it over that. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to repair a broken volume component?

F1200 with broken Volume:

I have an F1200 from 1997 with a touchy volume knob that has just gone from only working with the knob set at certain volume levels, to the sub only producing sound while the knob is actually being rotated. I know I should just be happy that I have got so many years out of my sub, but the only thing broken is a small attenuator soldered to the board and it seems silly to trash it over that. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to repair a broken volume component?

The electronics portion of your subwoofer can be repaired by any local electronics repair shop. They can contact us for schematics if needed, and purchase the replacement parts off the shelf through their generic parts supplier.

F1200 with broken Volume: I have a F1200 from 1997 with a touchy volume knob...Does anyone have any thoughts on how to repair a broken volume component?

I have "kind of" the same thing. I have a F1500 from May '94. I get no volume until I get past half way on the knob & then all of a sudden I get output but it's a muddy bass if that makes sense. It may be that the volume is turned up too high but I don't get anything if I turn it down.

I called Velodyne a couple of years ago & they said it is probably just the volume control & any electronics shop could fix it. I haven't done that yet as I live in AU & the sub is a 110v model.

What is the proper way to utilize Auto EQ, Using a laptop. At what volume should the receiver be set at? Also the sub x-over in the receiver should be set to what, since I don't have a bypass? Also do I do it as a setup mode or preset. If I used a setup mode, how do I choose it in the setup menu? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

What is the proper way to utilize Auto EQ, Using a laptop. At what volume should the receiver be set at? Also the sub x-over in the receiver should be set to what, since I don't have a bypass? Also do I do it as a setup mode or preset. If I used a setup mode, how do I choose it in the setup menu? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

I forgot to mention it is a DD12+....

The DD12+ is recommended for rooms up to 5000 Cubic Feet.

Hi Rob, Thanks for the response. I did pick one up and I love it. I have a quick question if you can help me. What should I set the Line Level knob at on the back(I'm using the LFE input). What is it for. Also I'm using a 12volt trigger and I have the display set to on. Does the display remain on even when the sub is triggered off? Mine stays on, so I'm not sure if the sub is off.

Thanks in advance
Joe

I watched the Incredible Hulk on blu-ray yesterday and I thought the house was going to lift off. Way to much for me. I have it set at 80hz. My current setup is below: I called Velodyne and was told to try the direct setting. I never had a sub before till a few weeks ago and this is my 2nd blu-ray watched with the sub. It seems to be too much and shakes the house. I had to turn the sub off during the Hulk. Like I mentioned before I never had a sub and a friend of mine had a new 1500R and I got it for $350 so I had to take it :D

(2) rear WH 2 series Wharfedales
(1) WH 2 center
(2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers)
Marantz SR4200 AV receiver

Velodyne Owners ...

I did a search on this board for info on the Velodyne Impact-12 sub, but really there is nothing. Also a title search on Velodyne Impact-10 and got nothing.

Just asking ... what are your thoughts on either one of these subs for use in a home 2-channel audio only system.
__________________________________

I posted this in another thread I started. So far, I have 125 views, but no replies at all. Here is the thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1405393
__________________________________

Here is what I'm asking in that thread:

I am in the process of putting together a 2-channel audio system that will just be used for music at moderate listening levels. It will be in a living room which is about 16' x 20' with 10' ceilings.

I plan on using a set of Polk RTi A5 floorstanders for the fronts and a set of Polk RTi A3 bookshelf speakers on 30" stands for the rears.

I don't want the system thumping too loud .. just a little extra bass to round out the music.

Thinking about a single Velodyne Impact-12 powered sub. It's a 12" with a 165 W (max continuos) power rating. Not anything real powerful, but I am thinking the little extra lows will add nicely to the overall sound if not pushed real hard.

Any of you folks have any negative or positive thoughts on the Velodyne subs?

Thank's for an honest opinion,
Ron

purplerain
Sounds like it needs to be dialed in correctly.

purplerain
Sounds like it needs to be dialed in correctly.

How do I go about doing so? Thanks

My Marantz crossover frequency is 100 and it can't be changed I believe, should I put the low-pass dial on the sub to 100 or just leave the low-pass on direct? Thanks

The DD12+ is recommended for rooms up to 5000 Cubic Feet.

Hi Rob, I'm so sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to get this dialed in and Tech supports is closed. Does the LFE in on the DD+ automatically bypass the internal crossover and if not how do I deactivate it to use the one in my pre. Also what is the purpose of the line level dial on the back, I know it boosts the gain but isn't that for the volume control. Where should it be set, I'm currently at 12 o'clock. Lastly, when I run auto EQ how should I set my pre. If I leave it as it's set up the test tones stop coming out of the sub @ 80hz and begin coming out of my speakers (All set to small and the sub x-over @ 80). Is this the write way or should I boost the sub x-over to 200hz so the full signal goes to the sub during auto setup. I'm so confused. LOL....They manual is very vague


Joe

Just picked up a DD18+. I still have my trusty DD18 so the comparisons are gonna be fun! Both have incredible build quality for sure. I thought the original DD18 was big, but man the 18+ is a monster!! I havent been following this thread too much, anyone else have input on the 18+? Thanks!

Just picked up a DD18+. I still have my trusty DD18 so the comparisons are gonna be fun! Both have incredible build quality for sure. I thought the original DD18 was big, but man the 18+ is a monster!! I havent been following this thread too much, anyone else have input on the 18+? Thanks!

Please post your comparison results once you are done. I would be interested in hearing them. Congrats on the DD-18+.

Enjoy and Have Fun!!!:D:D

Hi Rob, Thanks for the response. I did pick one up and I love it. I have a quick question if you can help me. What should I set the Line Level knob at on the back(I'm using the LFE input). What is it for. Also I'm using a 12volt trigger and I have the display set to on. Does the display remain on even when the sub is triggered off? Mine stays on, so I'm not sure if the sub is off.

Thanks in advance
Joe

Maybe manual would help? "If NOT using dual inputs, then set both level controls on the back panel to MAX."

Please, I need some advice on using auto setup. Do I leave my Pre-Amp settings, so that the test tone CD stops coming from the Velo @ 80hz and begins coming from my speakers or do I temporarily set my Pre-Pro Sub X-Over to 200hz and run the full tone through the Sub? Also what is the significance of the Line Level Control on the rear? (IE: Where should it be set). I would really appreciate any help.

Thanks in advance
Joe

Please, I need some advice on using auto setup. Do I leave my Pre-Amp settings, so that the test tone CD stops coming from the Velo @ 80hz and begins coming from my speakers or do I temporarily set my Pre-Pro Sub X-Over to 200hz and run the full tone through the Sub? Also what is the significance of the Line Level Control on the rear? (IE: Where should it be set). I would really appreciate any help.

Thanks in advance
Joe

Joe,

Leave your pre-amp settings as they are to use the auto-eq setup on the sub. The sub will determine the LF cutoff of the rest of your system and then adjust itself to fit "under" this.

If you are driving the subwoofer at high level (from main L&R speakers) and low level via RCA from an AV receiver sub out, the separate level controls on the new DD+ subs allow you to adjust the relative sensitivity to each of these sources so that you can balance their relative levels. If you're not driving the sub this way, you may not need to use them.

Look on the the line level control as a way of reducing the sensitivity of the sub by around 6dB at its minimum setting rather than a way of increasing the gain at its maximum.

Whether you need to use the line level control depends a bit on where you have the subwoofer volume set to match your other channel levels. If you want to use the maximum output capability of the sub, it is important not to set the subwoofer volume less than about 15. Otherwise, you will clip the subwoofer input before achieving maximum output. (You might want to search for my recent posts on the AV:Talk forum, Velodyne section to see why I say this). If you are one of those whose subwoofer volume tends to be less than 15, then you can turn the line level control on the subwoofer all the way to the left to reduce the subwoofer sensitivity allowing you to increase the sub volume a bit more. If you are lucky and your subwoofer volume is already over 15, then it matters less how you have the line level set. Hope this helps. :)

Joe,

Leave your pre-amp settings as they are to use the auto-eq setup on the sub. The sub will determine the LF cutoff of the rest of your system and then adjust itself to fit "under" this.

If you are driving the subwoofer at high level (from main L&R speakers) and low level via RCA from an AV receiver sub out, the separate level controls on the new DD+ subs allow you to adjust the relative sensitivity to each of these sources so that you can balance their relative levels. If you're not driving the sub this way, you may not need to use them.

Look on the the line level control as a way of reducing the sensitivity of the sub by around 6dB at its minimum setting rather than a way of increasing the gain at its maximum.

Whether you need to use the line level control depends a bit on where you have the subwoofer volume set to match your other channel levels. If you want to use the maximum output capability of the sub, it is important not to set the subwoofer volume less than about 15. Otherwise, you will clip the subwoofer input before achieving maximum output. (You might want to search for my recent posts on the AV:Talk forum, Velodyne section to see why I say this). If you are one of those whose subwoofer volume tends to be less than 15, then you can turn the line level control on the subwoofer all the way to the left to reduce the subwoofer sensitivity allowing you to increase the sub volume a bit more. If you are lucky and your subwoofer volume is already over 15, then it matters less how you have the line level set. Hope this helps. :)

Thank you so much for that, I really appreciate all the info. Can I ask you, if I'm using the subs LFE input, does it automatically bypass the x-over or is there a setting to for that, as I'm using the x-over in my pre.

Thanks Again
Joe

Please, I need some advice on using auto setup. Do I leave my Pre-Amp settings, so that the test tone CD stops coming from the Velo @ 80hz and begins coming from my speakers or do I temporarily set my Pre-Pro Sub X-Over to 200hz and run the full tone through the Sub? Also what is the significance of the Line Level Control on the rear? (IE: Where should it be set). I would really appreciate any help.

Thanks in advance
Joe

Didn't you receive a manual for your sub when you bought it?? - I have the older DD12, and I couldn't have managed to install/ setup/eq my sub without a manual. Also, you need to read/understand the manual for your receiver/pre pro, to get the right "blend/mix" ,( x-over and LFE )
I wish I could help, but your dd+ is significant different from mine....

Didn't you receive a manual for your sub when you bought it?? - I have the older DD12, and I couldn't have managed to install/ setup/eq my sub without a manual. Also, you need to read/understand the manual for your receiver/pre pro, to get the right "blend/mix" ,( x-over and LFE )
I wish I could help, but your dd+ is significant different from mine....

Yes I did receive the manual, but it is very vague. It does not say whether not the lfe input bypasses the x-over. At least nowhere that I see.

Thank you so much for that, I really appreciate all the info. Can I ask you, if I'm using the subs LFE input, does it automatically bypass the x-over or is there a setting to for that, as I'm using the x-over in my pre.

Thanks Again
Joe

The simple answer is no. If you use the LFE input, it doesn't automatically bypass the x-over.

If you want to bypass the x-over... with the PC software, press the up arrow on the "Low Pass Crossover" field until it goes past 199 and changes to "--". This effectively disables the x-over in the sub. If you use the remote control, go into menu page 2 and put the cursor on the Low Pass Crossover field and either increase the setting past 199 to "OFF" or use the Reset key to set it to "OFF".

The Auto-EQ mode will probably override this though. :cool:

The simple answer is no. If you use the LFE input, it doesn't automatically bypass the x-over.

If you want to bypass the x-over... with the PC software, press the up arrow on the "Low Pass Crossover" field until it goes past 199 and changes to "--". This effectively disables the x-over in the sub. If you use the remote control, go into menu page 2 and put the cursor on the Low Pass Crossover field and either increase the setting past 199 to "OFF" or use the Reset key to set it to "OFF".

The Auto-EQ mode will probably override this though. :cool:

Thanks a lot. So I'll run the auto EQ and then make the change to the X-over, is that right.

Thanks
Joe

What is the proper way to utilize Auto EQ, Using a laptop. At what volume should the receiver be set at? Also the sub x-over in the receiver should be set to what, since I don't have a bypass? Also do I do it as a setup mode or preset. If I used a setup mode, how do I choose it in the setup menu? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

I know you received some help over the weekend from some of the knowledgeable forum members, sorry I do not monitor the forums on my days off, though I will add my 2 cents worth.

Setting the receiver volume correctly is extremely important, having the volume on the main speaker too loud can cause issues when trying to calibrate the subwoofer, especially if you have full range main speakers. With your sweep tones playing through the system and your room response on screen, mute the subwoofer. Now you will only see the response curve of your main speakers, adjust the volume on your receiver so that the volume in in the 70-76dB range. Now you can unmute your subwoofer and proceed.

When it comes to setting the cross over in your reciever, I recommend setting it between 80-120Hz. I know some like to go lower, or that the THX standard is 80Hz, but after reading many articles and doing some experimentation myself have found 100Hz works great for me (and yes I have full range speakers that go down to 30 Hz on their own). Setting the cross over at 100 Hz with a standard 12dB/octave slope means your still going to get significant bass from your mains above 50Hz. It really comes down to personal taste and experimentation. Experimentation will always yield what sounds best to you.

By default the subwoofer is going to go through the calibration in the setup mode. The setup mode is a global setting from which all the presets are then based off of. If you enter the preset mode, you will only be calibrating that one preset. This can be desirable if the single contour frequency is not sufficient for your customization.

Hi Rob, Thanks for the response. I did pick one up and I love it. I have a quick question if you can help me. What should I set the Line Level knob at on the back(I'm using the LFE input). What is it for. Also I'm using a 12volt trigger and I have the display set to on. Does the display remain on even when the sub is triggered off? Mine stays on, so I'm not sure if the sub is off.

Thanks in advance
Joe

The line level knob on the back of the Velodyne DDplus series subwoofers allow you to adjust signal strength coming into the subwoofer. In a typical single system set up this knob should be set to maximum to allow the full signal in. Where this knob would be most likely used is when one subwoofer is connected to two different systems. In this scenario the input from one of the systems could be "hotter", reducing that input would allow the subwoofer volume to remain constant regardless of which system is being used.

If you have selected the 12 volt trigger in the menu to on, and have the subwoofer connected to a source correctly, the subwoofer should shut off its LED display when you power down the 12 volt source. The video output will always be active.

I watched the Incredible Hulk on blu-ray yesterday and I thought the house was going to lift off. Way to much for me. I have it set at 80hz. My current setup is below: I called Velodyne and was told to try the direct setting. I never had a sub before till a few weeks ago and this is my 2nd blu-ray watched with the sub. It seems to be too much and shakes the house. I had to turn the sub off during the Hulk. Like I mentioned before I never had a sub and a friend of mine had a new 1500R and I got it for $350 so I had to take it :D

(2) rear WH 2 series Wharfedales
(1) WH 2 center
(2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers)
Marantz SR4200 AV receiver

Some Blu-Ray disc definately have a hot bass track, and the SPL-1500R will move a bit of air. We should probably discuss some of your other settings like your LFE gain and volume settings. You should be able to adjust these in such a way to blend the system better. Additionally you can try utilizing the night mode, selected from the subwoofer's remote, which will adjust the subwoofer's dynamic range.

Velodyne Owners ...

I did a search on this board for info on the Velodyne Impact-12 sub, but really there is nothing. Also a title search on Velodyne Impact-10 and got nothing.

Just asking ... what are your thoughts on either one of these subs for use in a home 2-channel audio only system.
__________________________________

I posted this in another thread I started. So far, I have 125 views, but no replies at all. Here is the thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1405393
__________________________________

Here is what I'm asking in that thread:

I am in the process of putting together a 2-channel audio system that will just be used for music at moderate listening levels. It will be in a living room which is about 16' x 20' with 10' ceilings.

I plan on using a set of Polk RTi A5 floorstanders for the fronts and a set of Polk RTi A3 bookshelf speakers on 30" stands for the rears.

I don't want the system thumping too loud .. just a little extra bass to round out the music.

Thinking about a single Velodyne Impact-12 powered sub. It's a 12" with a 165 W (max continuos) power rating. Not anything real powerful, but I am thinking the little extra lows will add nicely to the overall sound if not pushed real hard.

Any of you folks have any negative or positive thoughts on the Velodyne subs?

Thank's for an honest opinion,
Ron

The impact series is a nice entry level system designed primarily for home theater applications, but still does fine for music. Most individuals looking for a subwoofer two channel application will look to the Mini-Vee series subwoofer. While a bit more expensive, the Mini-Vee is a sealed design rather than a bass reflex (ported) which provides a much tighter, crisper, bass response. Now with all things it depends on how you will use your system and your personal taste. I have spoken to some folks that have used the Impact series and EQ Max series for music only systems and swear by them.

Hi Rob, I'm so sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to get this dialed in and Tech supports is closed. Does the LFE in on the DD+ automatically bypass the internal crossover and if not how do I deactivate it to use the one in my pre. Also what is the purpose of the line level dial on the back, I know it boosts the gain but isn't that for the volume control. Where should it be set, I'm currently at 12 o'clock. Lastly, when I run auto EQ how should I set my pre. If I leave it as it's set up the test tones stop coming out of the sub @ 80hz and begin coming out of my speakers (All set to small and the sub x-over @ 80). Is this the write way or should I boost the sub x-over to 200hz so the full signal goes to the sub during auto setup. I'm so confused. LOL....They manual is very vague


Joe

Turning the subwooofer's low pass cross over setting past 199 to "--" defeats the subwoofer's internal cross over.

Some Blu-Ray disc definately have a hot bass track, and the SPL-1500R will move a bit of air. We should probably discuss some of your other settings like your LFE gain and volume settings. You should be able to adjust these in such a way to blend the system better. Additionally you can try utilizing the night mode, selected from the subwoofer's remote, which will adjust the subwoofer's dynamic range.

My LFE setting is 0 on my Marantz and my volume on the Velodyne is 60....will try night mode too
My Marantz's crossover freq is 100 (can't change it), so I left the 1500R on low-pass Direct. I will play another blu-ray 2mro and see. Thanks

Hello,

I have a DD-18 (not +). What could be the reason why my sub won't sound the sweep signal when running manual EQ but does sound the sweep if running an Auto EQ?
Note that when running the manual EQ the sweep signal is sent correctly to my receiver through the analog stereo out of the sub.

Thanks

Hello,

I have a DD-18 (not +). What could be the reason why my sub won't sound the sweep signal when running manual EQ but does sound the sweep if running an Auto EQ?
Note that when running the manual EQ the sweep signal is sent correctly to my receiver through the analog stereo out of the sub.

Thanks

When this occurs the most common issues are either the wrong outputs are being used or the receiver is not connected or configured correctly.

There are three outputs on the back to the DD subwoofer, only the output labeled "EQ Out" will output the sweep tone. This output should be connected to an unused input on the receiver. Then you must select that input on the receiver as the source. Some receivers allow you to configure the input for analog or digital connections, be sure yours knows to look at the analog inputs.

If you continue to have issues you can try this test. Connect, or jumper, the EQ output of the DD directly to the DD's own input. Now try running the sweep tone. If the tone plays, then you know the sub is fine and the problem is in your receiver's connections or configuration.

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/8674/20120417224438.jpg


Okay, so I have a Velodyne ULD18 which no longer works right. the woofer works fine, and the amp turns on, powers the servo, the transformer works on all rails, power LED comes on, fuses are fine... but won't play anything.


I spent like two hours looking at the citcuits and found that leg of that Op Amp looking thing missing, painstakingly soldered a new leg on, ended up probably burning the chip to a crisp in the process. is this why my beloved sub won't play?

Where can I get a brand new version of this part? :(

Okay, so I have a Velodyne ULD18 which no longer works right. the woofer works fine, and the amp turns on, powers the servo, the transformer works on all rails, power LED comes on, fuses are fine... but won't play anything.

I spent like two hours looking at the citcuits and found that leg of that Op Amp looking thing missing, painstakingly soldered a new leg on, ended up probably burning the chip to a crisp in the process. is this why my beloved sub won't play?

Where can I get a brand new version of this part? :(

Unfortunately we no longer stock replacement parts for the ULD series subwoofers. The vast majority of the electronic parts can be replaced with equivalents available at local parts houses or through online parts catalogs. We can provide you with an electronic copy of the service manual for this subwoofer, free of charge, if you contact our service department.

Unfortunately we no longer stock replacement parts for the ULD series subwoofers. The vast majority of the electronic parts can be replaced with equivalents available at local parts houses or through online parts catalogs. We can provide you with an electronic copy of the service manual for this subwoofer, free of charge, if you contact our service department.

Thanks a bunch. A service manual would be amazing, even if I don't understand half of it yet, this sub sounds amazing :)

Thanks a bunch. A service manual would be amazing, even if I don't understand half of it yet, this sub sounds amazing :)

You're a man who takes "till death do us part" seriously. Even with a subwoofer. :)

My LFE setting is 0 on my Marantz and my volume on the Velodyne is 60....will try night mode too
My Marantz's crossover freq is 100 (can't change it), so I left the 1500R on low-pass Direct. I will play another blu-ray 2mro and see. Thanks

Do you have a SPL meter? If you do, use it to balance the sub with the rest of your system. You are probably running the sub too hot.

Do you have a SPL meter? If you do, use it to balance the sub with the rest of your system. You are probably running the sub too hot.

If the volume is set at 60, then yes it is running very high. Our subwoofers typically run between 20-40.

Velodyne Owners ...

I did a search on this board for info on the Velodyne Impact-12 sub, but really there is nothing. Also a title search on Velodyne Impact-10 and got nothing.

Just asking ... what are your thoughts on either one of these subs for use in a home 2-channel audio only system.
__________________________________

I posted this in another thread I started. So far, I have 125 views, but no replies at all. Here is the thread:

__________________________________

Here is what I'm asking in that thread:

I am in the process of putting together a 2-channel audio system that will just be used for music at moderate listening levels. It will be in a living room which is about 16' x 20' with 10' ceilings.

I plan on using a set of Polk RTi A5 floorstanders for the fronts and a set of Polk RTi A3 bookshelf speakers on 30" stands for the rears.

I don't want the system thumping too loud .. just a little extra bass to round out the music.

Thinking about a single Velodyne Impact-12 powered sub. It's a 12" with a 165 W (max continuos) power rating. Not anything real powerful, but I am thinking the little extra lows will add nicely to the overall sound if not pushed real hard.

Any of you folks have any negative or positive thoughts on the Velodyne subs?

Thank's for an honest opinion,
Ron

I had the same experience with the lack of info/feedback on the Impact series. I finally found a place some what near me that carried them. I compared them to other subs in the same category / price range. I ended up getting the Impact-10. For me, it had the cleanest and most accurate low end in its range. A couple of other subs sounded too boomy. Others didn't produce as clean as this one. I mainly use it for movies, but I also listen to a lot of music. It has also performed very well with music. On a couple of songs with very heavy bass I felt it lacking the clean punch, but I think it was due to a low bit mp3 file because on other songs with high bit rate aac files that I've ripped the sub has performed well. I listen to many different music genres and overall I've been very pleased with the subs performance.

**Edit**
Just took the time to do some comparisons with music to see if it was the files or the sub that were lacking in low end punch and it was definitely the files. They had been low bit files. This sub has been able to handle everything very well. I have not found that it as struggled at any point and no distortion. I would imagine the Impact-12 would give you the same results.

If the volume is set at 60, then yes it is running very high. Our subwoofers typically run between 20-40.

I have the volume set on the Velodyne at 40..is this OK?

I believe the volume goes from 34-100 on the 1500R

I have the volume set on the Velodyne at 40..is this OK?

I believe the volume goes from 34-100 on the 1500R

The volume goes from 0 to 99. Factory default is 30, a setting of 40 is at the high end of the normal range, but within the normal range. You should be good.

The volume goes from 0 to 99. Factory default is 30, a setting of 40 is at the high end of the normal range, but within the normal range. You should be good.

I changed it to 35, I'll keep it t that.

Also, what phase should I use? 0-90-180-270

Thanks Rob:D

I changed it to 35, I'll keep it t that.

Also, what phase should I use? 0-90-180-270

Thanks Rob:D

Setting the phase will depend on how your bass sounds. Typically you should leave it at 0. I have 4 subs in my theater and the phase on the rear subs are at 180. while the front subs are at 45. This set up gives me the smoothest response thru my SMS-1.

I changed it to 35, I'll keep it t that.

Also, what phase should I use? 0-90-180-270

Thanks Rob:D

Experimentation will yield the best setting. Turn on some music and sit in the primary listening location, then have someone else change the phase. If one sounds better than the others, then that is where you set the phase.

Hello, newbie here,

I've got a DD+12 and am interested in using a separate sub as a slave off of it. The other sub is an SVS tube and amp with no correction/controls other than level. I do have an external, in-line filter to limit the signal to the SVS to 17 hz and above.

Has anyone successfully used a DD+ to control a non-Velodyne sub?

Thanks!
C

Hello, newbie here,

I've got a DD+12 and am interested in using a separate sub as a slave off of it. The other sub is an SVS tube and amp with no correction/controls other than level. I do have an external, in-line filter to limit the signal to the SVS to 17 hz and above.

Has anyone successfully used a DD+ to control a non-Velodyne sub?

Thanks!
C

The master / slave functionality of the Digital Drive series allows you to control additional Digital Drive series subwoofers, it will not control another brand or another series of Velodyne subwoofer. You can still however use the thru put connectors to daisy chain onto the second subwoofer.

I just purchased a SC-600 IW subwoofer but am wondering whether I made the right decision. I was going to install it into an exterior wall, but have heard that might not be a good idea due to moisture, rattling of window glass and other issues with putting in-walls into an exterior wall. But the only other wall option is a wall that backs onto my daughter's bedroom. I assume that that location would not be good for her sleep. Given this, should I just go with an floor sub, or are these not really concerns?

Thanks.

I just purchased a SC-600 IW subwoofer but am wondering whether I made the right decision. I was going to install it into an exterior wall, but have heard that might not be a good idea due to moisture, rattling of window glass and other issues with putting in-walls into an exterior wall. But the only other wall option is a wall that backs onto my daughter's bedroom. I assume that that location would not be good for her sleep. Given this, should I just go with an floor sub, or are these not really concerns?

Thanks.

When properly installed in a properly constructed wall, there should be no issue with this installation. The subwoofer should not transfer vibrations to the window as it will be secured to the studs.

Hi -

I've got a Velo DLS-5000r. Is an SMS-1 management system "overkill"?

Hi -

I've got a Velo DLS-5000r. Is an SMS-1 management system "overkill"?

The DLS-5000R has no room correction, adding an SMS-1 will allow you a great deal of flexibility in equalizing the subwoofer to your listening environment.

The DLS-5000R has no room correction, adding an SMS-1 will allow you a great deal of flexibility in equalizing the subwoofer to your listening environment.



Thanks. I'm a little worried that it's too advanced for a novice. Also read comparisons with it and the AntiMode, which people refer to as adjusting in the time domain - whatever that means. So, confused as to which really is better for me.

Then there is always the consideration that I might step up to an AVR that has Multi EQ XT32, which would theoretically do what the SMS-1 does. But that upgrade could be more than a few months off.

Wouldn't necessarily be much of an issue except that I've located a used one and need to make a buy or not decision ASAP.

Thanks. I'm a little worried that it's too advanced for a novice. Also read comparisons with it and the AntiMode, which people refer to as adjusting in the time domain - whatever that means. So, confused as to which really is better for me.

Then there is always the consideration that I might step up to an AVR that has Multi EQ XT32, which would theoretically do what the SMS-1 does. But that upgrade could be more than a few months off.

Wouldn't necessarily be much of an issue except that I've located a used one and need to make a buy or not decision ASAP.

While the SMS-1 can be quite complex if you enter the full parametric equalization mode, it does also have an auto EQ mode. The Auto EQ mode will make many of the adjustments, for you, the primary difference being the 8 EQ bands are at fixed points.

Just picked up a Marantz SR7001 (AVR) and the LFE is set at -10db. On my Velodyne SPL-1500R, I have the knob set to direct. Should I be OK with this? Thanks

I just bought a couple of SC-600 IF/IC subs. I am wondering if I can utilize a spare amp I have - a sunfire stereo amp - along with an SMS-1 for crossover/EQ to power these subs, rather than buying the SC-602. Would this be a significant compromise?

Just picked up a Marantz SR7001 (AVR) and the LFE is set at -10db. On my Velodyne SPL-1500R, I have the knob set to direct. Should I be OK with this? Thanks

I do not advise running the LFE at -10dB. Our recommendation is to set the LFE to the neutral 0dB and adjust the subwoofer's volume control to your preferred listening level.

I just bought a couple of SC-600 IF/IC subs. I am wondering if I can utilize a spare amp I have - a sunfire stereo amp - along with an SMS-1 for crossover/EQ to power these subs, rather than buying the SC-602. Would this be a significant compromise?

The SC-600IW subwoofer is a 4 ohm speaker. You could utilize the other amplifier, assuming it is 4ohm stable, along with the SMS-1 for crossover and EQ functionality.

Disclaimer: The SC-600IW is engineered to play optimally with the SC600D or SC602 amplifiers, the performance specification provided by Velodyne are based upon this configuration, using other amplifiers could alter your performance. Additionally the Velodyne amplifiers have calibrated gain compression that is enabled to protect the drivers during high output, when using another amplifier this will not be present. Care should be taken when listening at higher outputs as there will be no protection for the driver present.

I do not advise running the LFE at -10dB. Our recommendation is to set the LFE to the neutral 0dB and adjust the subwoofer's volume control to your preferred listening level.

My mistake....the LFE on the Marantz was set at 0, not -10db. I left the Low-Pass Crossover on direct. Also, my volume on the Velodyne is set at 35. Thanks Rob

My mistake....the LFE on the Marantz was set at 0, not -10db. I left the Low-Pass Crossover on direct. Also, my volume on the Velodyne is set at 35. Thanks Rob

Those settings sound good. :D

Glad I found this thread.

I listen to two channel audio and was thinking of adding a subwoofer.

My room is 24X19, 8 foot ceiling. My audio is a set of B&W 803D speakers powered by McIntosh 501s.

I listen to all types of music but my collection is rock, blues and bluegrass based.

What Velodyne sub would you recommend and why?

Thanks

What

Glad I found this thread.

I listen to two channel audio and was thinking of adding a subwoofer.

My room is 24X19, 8 foot ceiling. My audio is a set of B&W 803D speakers powered by McIntosh 501s.

I listen to all types of music but my collection is rock, blues and bluegrass based.

What Velodyne sub would you recommend and why?

Thanks

What

Based on your preference for two channel listening, your equipment, and room size I would recommend looking at the DS-10 subwoofer (http://velodyne.com/sale-1/ds-10.html). The DS-10 is a limited production subwoofer exclusive to the Velodyne.com web store. The DS-10 is based on the original Digital Drive 10 subwoofer, with an improved user interface, and minus the high gloss finish. Because this subwoofer is sold direct from Velodyne it is available at a great price.

...I listen to all types of music but my collection is rock, blues and bluegrass based. What Velodyne sub would you recommend and why?...
You don't say whether the space is acoustically treated (with bass traps in particular), but I'll assume it is a basically untreated normal residential listening room.

As yours is a hi quality critical listening dedicated stereo music setup, I suggest a hi qual sub with the wonderful Velodyne EQ built-in like the DD or DD+ series.

For a 3300 cu ft room, combined music and HT applicatio, I have two DD10s, as is noted in my sig;). I like smaller subs as the 10" speakers are very "fast" and accurate. Of course two subs increases the volume/capacity which can be effectively "filled". But most importantly, two subs allows you to use a sub crawl or sub haul to place the subs to cancel room modes. Then you apply the EQ. And that, my friend, yields wonderful tight punchy bass. :)

Hadn't seen Rob's post but I think we are in agreement and that sounds like a deal to me!.

Based on your preference for two channel listening, your equipment, and room size I would recommend looking at the DS-10 subwoofer (http://velodyne.com/sale-1/ds-10.html). The DS-10 is a limited production subwoofer exclusive to the Velodyne.com web store. The DS-10 is based on the original Digital Drive 10 subwoofer, with an improved user interface, and minus the high gloss finish. Because this subwoofer is sold direct from Velodyne it is available at a great price.

Thanks

How would I run the connections?

Here is the link to the MCD301 http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/us/products/pages/productdetails.aspx?CatId=Source&ProductId=MCD301

The owners manual is available from this page.

You don't say whether the space is acoustically treated (with bass traps in particular), but I'll assume it is a basically untreated normal residential listening room.

As yours is a hi quality critical listening dedicated stereo music setup, I suggest a hi qual sub with the wonderful Velodyne EQ built-in like the DD or DD+ series.

For a 3300 cu ft room, combined music and HT applicatio, I have two DD10s, as is noted in my sig;). I like smaller subs as the 10" speakers are very "fast" and accurate. Of course two subs increases the volume/capacity which can be effectively "filled". But most importantly, two subs allows you to use a sub crawl or sub haul to place the subs to cancel room modes. Then you apply the EQ. And that, my friend, yields wonderful tight punchy bass. :)

Hadn't seen Rob's post but I think we are in agreement and that sounds like a deal to me!.

The room is not acoustically treated and will not be for practical reasons but I did choose heavy curtains and a thick rug as well as furniture that would be more acoustically friendly.

Thanks

How would I run the connections?

Here is the link to the MCD301 http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/us/products/pages/productdetails.aspx?CatId=Source&ProductId=MCD301

The owners manual is available from this page.

The DS10 and the Digital Drive plus series subwoofers have the ability to be connected to virtually any system. The units feature stereo inputs and outputs of both balanced and unbalanced connectors. The output jacks have a high pass filter or you can use the throughput to bypass the filter. The subwoofers also have speaker wire terminals for connecting to systems without pre-outs.

I have a 20 x 22 x 9 home theater room with a Velodyne HGS 15 sub. It is placed in the front corner about 4 ft off the wall. I was using a small REL 150e sub along the opposite side wall, but it has died.

What Velodyne sub would fit in well with my current HGS 15? It gives enough punch; i like the smoother sound with 2 vs 1 sub.

Also, any recommendations for room placement?
Thanks
G

The DS10 and the Digital Drive plus series subwoofers have the ability to be connected to virtually any system. The units feature stereo inputs and outputs of both balanced and unbalanced connectors. The output jacks have a high pass filter or you can use the throughput to bypass the filter. The subwoofers also have speaker wire terminals for connecting to systems without pre-outs.

Yes but how would you connect it to my system given it's connection limitations?

Anyone?

I have a 20 x 22 x 9 home theater room with a Velodyne HGS 15 sub. It is placed in the front corner about 4 ft off the wall. I was using a small REL 150e sub along the opposite side wall, but it has died.

What Velodyne sub would fit in well with my current HGS 15? It gives enough punch; i like the smoother sound with 2 vs 1 sub.

Also, any recommendations for room placement?
Thanks
G

I would look to either the Optimum or Digital Drive series subwoofers. The Digital Drive series subwoofers is our current flagship subwoofer with our digital high gain servo for limiting distortion, having replaced the HGS series when production was halted. The Optimum series is and audiophile grade subwoofer in its own right though without the servo mechanism.

Yes but how would you connect it to my system given it's connection limitations?

Anyone?

Since you link the MCD301 and mention the 501s with no mention of a pre-amp, I am going to assume your connecting the MCD301 directly to your 501s. If this is the case, run the MCD301 into the subwoofer's inputs, then the subwoofer's outputs to the 501s using either balanced or unbalanced connectors.

Rob, what size would you recommend ?
Thanks
G

Rob, what size would you recommend ?
Thanks
G

Any size is fine, the HGS 15 should be capable of filling that 3900 cu ft room on its own, so adding a second sub is about expanding the sweet spot and smoothing room response vs trying to add more volume capacity. There is nothing wrong with mixing different size subwoofers, only our own slavery to symmetry limits us.

Since you link the MCD301 and mention the 501s with no mention of a pre-amp, I am going to assume your connecting the MCD301 directly to your 501s. If this is the case, run the MCD301 into the subwoofer's inputs, then the subwoofer's outputs to the 501s using either balanced or unbalanced connectors.

It's that easy?

wow

so then the sub will split the signal to the high and low allowing even more headroom for the 501's correct?

Good stuff if I have this understood correctly.

It's that easy?

wow

so then the sub will split the signal to the high and low allowing even more headroom for the 501's correct?

Good stuff if I have this understood correctly.

Yes the subwoofer's crossovers will send the bass notes to the subwoofer, and roll off the bass notes going to the 501s resulting in more headroom for the 501s.

Yes the subwoofer's crossovers will send the bass notes to the subwoofer, and roll off the bass notes going to the 501s resulting in more headroom for the 501s.

awesome

Hi Rob,

I have a HGS-10 that had a bad amplifier. I recently send it in and received it. However, when I powered the unit it appears the woofer is dead. Do you have any advice on how to get my unit working again? Can I buy a replacement woofer from the velodyne site?

Thanks,
//df

Probably directed at Mr. Morse....but any help is much appreciated.

I have a ULD 15 purchased in '88 used with a pair of Dahlquist DQ 20's and between an Adcom preamp and GFA 555 power amp. Today it (the ULD) stopped working. I believe it's the amp because
1. the last few weeks it has been fluttering and thumping even when there is no music playing
2. I don't get the signature light "pop" that it always made when turned on
3. the sub itself does work when speaker wires are hooked to an amp
4. HOWEVER..as always since the ULD 15 amp is between the amp and preamp when the amp is on, the system is fine (other than the sub).

I will never ever give up my ULD 15. It is "my precious". So.....after checking all of the fuses and a lot of Googling... My options seem to be to
1. find a servo on ebay (there is a model 15-W on ebay for $100. will that work in place of the 15A7 that I have?)
2. have it repaired
3. use another big ass amp with a crossover. (not my first choice as I really like the "one knob" control)
4. Take it apart and try and replace the capacitors.

Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance.

Andy

Hi Rob,

I have a HGS-10 that had a bad amplifier. I recently send it in and received it. However, when I powered the unit it appears the woofer is dead. Do you have any advice on how to get my unit working again? Can I buy a replacement woofer from the velodyne site?

Thanks,
//df

I recommend contacting our product support team to have them walk you through a test for the driver. I would hate to have you pay for a driver replacement only to have it be some other issue. They can be reached at 408-465-2851, Mon-Fri between 7am-4:30pm pacific.

Probably directed at Mr. Morse....but any help is much appreciated.

I have a ULD 15 purchased in '88 used with a pair of Dahlquist DQ 20's and between an Adcom preamp and GFA 555 power amp. Today it (the ULD) stopped working. I believe it's the amp because
1. the last few weeks it has been fluttering and thumping even when there is no music playing
2. I don't get the signature light "pop" that it always made when turned on
3. the sub itself does work when speaker wires are hooked to an amp
4. HOWEVER..as always since the ULD 15 amp is between the amp and preamp when the amp is on, the system is fine (other than the sub).

I will never ever give up my ULD 15. It is "my precious". So.....after checking all of the fuses and a lot of Googling... My options seem to be to
1. find a servo on ebay (there is a model 15-W on ebay for $100. will that work in place of the 15A7 that I have?)
2. have it repaired
3. use another big ass amp with a crossover. (not my first choice as I really like the "one knob" control)
4. Take it apart and try and replace the capacitors.

Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance.

Andy

The first thing to do is to inspect the driver itself. You want to make sure there are no holes, tears, or rips in the surround. Assuming this is good, I would take the amplifier to a local stereo repair shop. Velodyne can provide the service manual electronically to aid in the repairs.

Understood. It's just that the minimum labor to open it up is more than I can buy a used one for. I found another 15a7 for $100 inc shipping.

Understood. It's just that the minimum labor to open it up is more than I can buy a used one for. I found another 15a7 for $100 inc shipping.

This is a possibility, there are folks out there with working amps but their driver failed and the units are unrepairable. Be sure any second hand amp you purchase is the same version (series I or a Series II) and for the same size driver.

Thanks. Yes, it's a series II. Same model # 15 A7. Should be OK yes? (as long as it works)

Is it possible to control 2 DLS-5000r's with a single remote?

Thanks. Yes, it's a series II. Same model # 15 A7. Should be OK yes? (as long as it works)

Yes

Is it possible to control 2 DLS-5000r's with a single remote?

Yes, there is no difference between remotes on any of the DLS-R series product, they are 100% interchangeable. If you have two units in range of the transmitter, they will both respond to any command given.

My 9 year old HGS15 recently began malfunctioning, the major symptom being extremely loud output (deafening, really) whenever powered up, even with no audio input. I removed the amplifier from the box and visually inspected it, without seeing any visible damage. When I called Velodyne support, I spoke with Jeff Davis, and he did a really great job helping me through the RMA process. I won't bore you with the details, but he went above and beyond to make sure the problem was actually with the amplifier, not the speaker itself, so that I did not waste time and money sending the amplifier in for repair.

I realize there isn't much exciting here, but most of the time people only post to the forum when something goes wrong, so I like to try and spread the word when a company takes the time and effort to do a great job. Thanks, Velodyne.

My 9 year old HGS15 recently began malfunctioning, the major symptom being extremely loud output (deafening, really) whenever powered up, even with no audio input. I removed the amplifier from the box and visually inspected it, without seeing any visible damage. When I called Velodyne support, I spoke with Jeff Davis, and he did a really great job helping me through the RMA process. I won't bore you with the details, but he went above and beyond to make sure the problem was actually with the amplifier, not the speaker itself, so that I did not waste time and money sending the amplifier in for repair.

I realize there isn't much exciting here, but most of the time people only post to the forum when something goes wrong, so I like to try and spread the word when a company takes the time and effort to do a great job. Thanks, Velodyne.

Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience. Jeff is fairly new to Velodyne but is an industry veteran, he is an asset to Velodyne and a true resource for our customers.

I have Dahlquist DQ 20 speakers and was told that I really should change the crossover point to 65 from the default 85. Although some people say that the 85 is a better spot, I'd like to compare. Where can I find the parts to make the switch? Thanks for the help Rob. You guys have always had great customer service.

Setting up my SMS-1 for the first time but I have an issue that seems to be the opposite of any related posts I found. Others were not getting sound from the sub... I get sound from the sub but nothing from the speakers. As a result, if I mute the SMS-1, the system response flatlines and stays there no matter how high I raise the volume on my receiver.

LFE Output on the Receiver goes to (LFE) Input (Red) on the SMS-1
LFE Output on the SMS-1 goes to the Subwoofer
Video Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver
EQ Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver

No issues with the on screen display... all other functions seem to work fine... just no sound from the speakers. Any suggestions?

Equipment:
Pioneer Elite SC-27 Receiver
Parasound 5250 v.2 Amplifier
Paradigm W5 LCR Signature Series Speakers


RESOLVED: Well, I could spare some embarassment by just deleting this post but 10 seconds after posting, I realized the external amplifier was shutting off because I forgot to activate the 12v Trigger for Video1. Duh! Oh well, maybe this will help someone else in the future. Back to setting up the sub.

I have Dahlquist DQ 20 speakers and was told that I really should change the crossover point to 65 from the default 85. Although some people say that the 85 is a better spot, I'd like to compare. Where can I find the parts to make the switch? Thanks for the help Rob. You guys have always had great customer service.

If you PM me your email address, or send an email to service@velodyne.com, we can email you a copy of the service manual. The service manual includes instructions for adjusting the cross-over in the ULD 15.

Setting up my SMS-1 for the first time but I have an issue that seems to be the opposite of any related posts I found. Others were not getting sound from the sub... I get sound from the sub but nothing from the speakers. As a result, if I mute the SMS-1, the system response flatlines and stays there no matter how high I raise the volume on my receiver.

LFE Output on the Receiver goes to (LFE) Input (Red) on the SMS-1
LFE Output on the SMS-1 goes to the Subwoofer
Video Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver
EQ Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver

No issues with the on screen display... all other functions seem to work fine... just no sound from the speakers. Any suggestions?

Equipment:
Pioneer Elite SC-27 Receiver
Parasound 5250 v.2 Amplifier
Paradigm W5 LCR Signature Series Speakers


RESOLVED: Well, I could spare some embarassment by just deleting this post but 10 seconds after posting, I realized the external amplifier was shutting off because I forgot to activate the 12v Trigger for Video1. Duh! Oh well, maybe this will help someone else in the future. Back to setting up the sub.

I am glad you were able to solve your issue, we have all been victim of one of those oversights. I had an issue myself a couple months ago when installing adding a second DD+ into my home system. I could not get my sweep tone to pass into the sub for quite some time until I finally realized the receiver was in direct mode bypassing all processing, so the two channel sweep tone was never being directed to the sub. Enjoy your SMS! :D

Question about the set up of my SMS-1. I have 4 subwoofers in my theater....2 PL-200s and two Klipsch RW-12d subs. I run all 4 thru my SMS-1. My room seems to have a large peak between 40hz and 70hz no matter how I position the subs. So I used the SMS-1 to lower the peaks to get a really good near flat response from 15hz to 90hz. The issue is for me to get it that way I had to use the eq bands to drop those peaks by moving them down to near the lowest settings. I reduced those frequencies to -11dbs to -12.5dbs. Is it safe for my subs to have those certain frequencies reduced by so much? Is it putting more strain on the subs? BTW...they sound fantastic set up this way.

^I'm no expert but here's my 2 cents. Using extreme EQ cuts as you have to tame peaks is "safe" for the subs and probably reduces their workload. I myself would think about adding bass traps to reduce those room peaks and thus not have to be so extreme with the EQ, but if you're happy with the resultant measurements and SQ, then adding bass traps is not likely to be high on your agenda.

OTOH, boosts of that magnitude would indeed put a lot of stress on the subs, greatly increasing the workload on their amps and speakers.

Turned on my 5000r a couple nights ago and it came on with a constant hum that won't stop. I tried turning off the main switch on the back and turning back on again, unplugging it and checking all my connections and AVR settings.

Can't see anything visibly wrong, but the hum won't go away. It's like the sound it makes if you take the cable end out of the receiver and touch it with your finger.


The cable running between my AVR and woofer is a 35-ish ft length of 75ohm RG6 cable, running through the walls/ceiling. I added the RCA ends myself.

Everything was fine until a couple of days ago - I did have a couple of other instances where this occured, but toggling the main on/off switch corrected it. Not this time.

The only thing that changed is that the other day I was working on some cable management in the back of my equipment cabinet (trying to make it look prettier). The woofer cable had been simply hanging down from where it exits the ceiling - I placed it over a hook above the cabinet.


FYI, the woofer is plugged into a Monster SW200 surge outlet as the woofer is across the room from where my main surge protector is.


Maybe I need to remove the RCA ends from the cable and reconnect them?

Question about the set up of my SMS-1. I have 4 subwoofers in my theater....2 PL-200s and two Klipsch RW-12d subs. I run all 4 thru my SMS-1. My room seems to have a large peak between 40hz and 70hz no matter how I position the subs. So I used the SMS-1 to lower the peaks to get a really good near flat response from 15hz to 90hz. The issue is for me to get it that way I had to use the eq bands to drop those peaks by moving them down to near the lowest settings. I reduced those frequencies to -11dbs to -12.5dbs. Is it safe for my subs to have those certain frequencies reduced by so much? Is it putting more strain on the subs? BTW...they sound fantastic set up this way.

There is no danger to the subwoofers by reducing the signal at certain frequencies to obtain a smoother room response. You are not increasing the strain in any way. The peak you are experiencing is likely a combination of the subwoofers themselves and the rooms acoustics, I agree that looking into some bass traps may be a good idea.

Turned on my 5000r a couple nights ago and it came on with a constant hum that won't stop. I tried turning off the main switch on the back and turning back on again, unplugging it and checking all my connections and AVR settings.

Can't see anything visibly wrong, but the hum won't go away. It's like the sound it makes if you take the cable end out of the receiver and touch it with your finger.


The cable running between my AVR and woofer is a 35-ish ft length of 75ohm RG6 cable, running through the walls/ceiling. I added the RCA ends myself.

Everything was fine until a couple of days ago - I did have a couple of other instances where this occured, but toggling the main on/off switch corrected it. Not this time.

The only thing that changed is that the other day I was working on some cable management in the back of my equipment cabinet (trying to make it look prettier). The woofer cable had been simply hanging down from where it exits the ceiling - I placed it over a hook above the cabinet.


FYI, the woofer is plugged into a Monster SW200 surge outlet as the woofer is across the room from where my main surge protector is.


Maybe I need to remove the RCA ends from the cable and reconnect them?

The first thing to do is unplug the input cable from the back of the subwoofer, then turn the subwoofer on. Does it hum? If it does, the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if it does not then we should proceed with additional trouble shooting.

The next thing would be to connect a music source to the subwoofer directly using a different set of cables. If you choose to use a portable device such as an iPod, set the volume on the portable device to 3/4. Set the subwoofer's cross-over to direct or max, then play a song with good bass. You should hear the bass portion of the music. If the hum is present, then the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if there is no hum then the problem is elsewhere in your system.

If the problem is elsewhere in your system, connect the subwoofer directly to the receiver using a different cable than the one you normally use. Test the subwoofer, is the hum present? If so, the problem is likely a grounding issue in your system, if not, the problem is likely your RG6 cable.

If the problem is your cable consider using a wireless solution such as the Velodyne WiConnect system (http://velodyne.com/wiconnect-system.html). This connects to any receiver and subwoofer allowing you to place the subwoofer anywhere within 50 feet of the source without the need to run signal cables.

The first thing to do is unplug the input cable from the back of the subwoofer, then turn the subwoofer on. Does it hum? If it does, the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if it does not then we should proceed with additional trouble shooting.

The next thing would be to connect a music source to the subwoofer directly using a different set of cables. If you choose to use a portable device such as an iPod, set the volume on the portable device to 3/4. Set the subwoofer's cross-over to direct or max, then play a song with good bass. You should hear the bass portion of the music. If the hum is present, then the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if there is no hum then the problem is elsewhere in your system.

If the problem is elsewhere in your system, connect the subwoofer directly to the receiver using a different cable than the one you normally use. Test the subwoofer, is the hum present? If so, the problem is likely a grounding issue in your system, if not, the problem is likely your RG6 cable.

If the problem is your cable consider using a wireless solution such as the Velodyne WiConnect system (http://velodyne.com/wiconnect-system.html). This connects to any receiver and subwoofer allowing you to place the subwoofer anywhere within 50 feet of the source without the need to run signal cables.



Thanks, Rob. I'll try these troubleshooting tips and report back.

Rob - I just picked up an SMS-1 system on the used market. Downloaded the Outlaw's guide and started to read through it last night - have not yet connected (and won't until I get my other issue sorted).

I note that the SMS-1 has a 12V trigger - but I don't think it comes with a wire - does the SMS-1 need to be on whenever the AVR & sub are on? Just wondering if I need to pick up a 12V wire. I guess I could always just switch it on with the remote, but life would be easier with the trigger if it must be on.

Rob - I just picked up an SMS-1 system on the used market. Downloaded the Outlaw's guide and started to read through it last night - have not yet connected (and won't until I get my other issue sorted).

I note that the SMS-1 has a 12V trigger - but I don't think it comes with a wire - does the SMS-1 need to be on whenever the AVR & sub are on? Just wondering if I need to pick up a 12V wire. I guess I could always just switch it on with the remote, but life would be easier with the trigger if it must be on.

There are several options you could use. Since the SMS-1 is a low power consuming device, you can plug the unit into the switched outlets on the back of your AV receiver. Another option would be to use the auto on/off feature, another to use the remote control, and finally there is the previously mentioned 12volt trigger.

The 12 volt trigger connects to the SMS-1 using bare wire.

The first thing to do is unplug the input cable from the back of the subwoofer, then turn the subwoofer on. Does it hum? If it does, the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if it does not then we should proceed with additional trouble shooting.

The next thing would be to connect a music source to the subwoofer directly using a different set of cables. If you choose to use a portable device such as an iPod, set the volume on the portable device to 3/4. Set the subwoofer's cross-over to direct or max, then play a song with good bass. You should hear the bass portion of the music. If the hum is present, then the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if there is no hum then the problem is elsewhere in your system.

If the problem is elsewhere in your system, connect the subwoofer directly to the receiver using a different cable than the one you normally use. Test the subwoofer, is the hum present? If so, the problem is likely a grounding issue in your system, if not, the problem is likely your RG6 cable.

If the problem is your cable consider using a wireless solution such as the Velodyne WiConnect system (http://velodyne.com/wiconnect-system.html). This connects to any receiver and subwoofer allowing you to place the subwoofer anywhere within 50 feet of the source without the need to run signal cables.



Rob, I removed the cable from the rear of the subwoofer and turned it on - no hum. Plugged it back in - hum. Tried switching power outlets - still hummed. Tried checking/adjusting the connector ends on the RG6 cable - still hummed.

So completely disconnected the woofer, carried the behemoth across the room, plugged it in and ran a cable (I have a 15ft Acoustic Research woofer cable) directly from the AVR to the woofer - no hum, and appeared to be working.

My assumption from this is that there is something up with the RG6 cable. Either it's a "bad" cable or maybe it shifted too close to a cable carrying power. No idea how I can troubleshoot/fix that issue, considering this cable runs through the ceiling and down a wall. Also no idea why it worked fine for weeks and then suddenly didn't.

Very frustrating. Thanks for your help - appears it's not the woofer itself.

Rob, I removed the cable from the rear of the subwoofer and turned it on - no hum. Plugged it back in - hum. Tried switching power outlets - still hummed. Tried checking/adjusting the connector ends on the RG6 cable - still hummed.

So completely disconnected the woofer, carried the behemoth across the room, plugged it in and ran a cable (I have a 15ft Acoustic Research woofer cable) directly from the AVR to the woofer - no hum, and appeared to be working.

My assumption from this is that there is something up with the RG6 cable. Either it's a "bad" cable or maybe it shifted too close to a cable carrying power. No idea how I can troubleshoot/fix that issue, considering this cable runs through the ceiling and down a wall. Also no idea why it worked fine for weeks and then suddenly didn't.

Very frustrating. Thanks for your help - appears it's not the woofer itself.

I agree, it sounds like the cable. If you want to keep your subwoofer installed where it was, the best solution may be the WiConnect system (http://velodyne.com/wiconnect-system.html). The transmitter connects to your subout on the A/V processor, and a receiver connects to the subwoofers input. You can keep your equipment placement without the need to run cables.

I agree, it sounds like the cable. If you want to keep your subwoofer installed where it was, the best solution may be the WiConnect system (http://velodyne.com/wiconnect-system.html). The transmitter connects to your subout on the A/V processor, and a receiver connects to the subwoofers input. You can keep your equipment placement without the need to run cables.



The current location is ideal for WAF, but may not be optimal for performance. I just got my SMS-1 as you know, so once I have a chance to play with this, I will be able to better determine location. I have several drops pre-wired.


In another thread I posed the question of how to troubleshoot my cable issue and there is speculation it might be as "simple" as a ground loop issue. So, I've got more investigative work to do tonight.

The current location is ideal for WAF, but may not be optimal for performance. I just got my SMS-1 as you know, so once I have a chance to play with this, I will be able to better determine location. I have several drops pre-wired.


In another thread I posed the question of how to troubleshoot my cable issue and there is speculation it might be as "simple" as a ground loop issue. So, I've got more investigative work to do tonight.

To eliminate the ground loop possibility, plug the subwoofer into the same outlet you normally do, then run a cable across the room and connect the subwoofer to the receiver and play. If the unit does not hum, then there is no ground loop. I suspect you will find there is no ground loop, our unit is not grounded, so the loop is usually in other components and would have been revealed in your previous testing. The co-ax cable laying parallel to electrical wiring in the wall or ceiling, or having become bent too much is much more likely the issue.

Gents, looking for your assistance.
I'm the proud owner of two DD-15's.

The 2nd I purchased about 12 months ago which was one of the last here in Australia prior to the change to the DD+ series.

History: The unit arrived with what appeared to be a replacement amp installed as the software advised that it was a DD-18 and software version was one that was not standard.
It took over a month to get the software sorted between a Head of Customer Service at Velodyne US and the Australian Distributor though I was having intermittent issues with my remote which I registered with my local retailer.
Wasnt a major concern as the unit was used for a short period then boxed as I was moving house. I've now set the units up again and am having issues with the control of the newer DD.
Issue
Plugging the unit in I have full control with the IR remote.
Let the unit turn off automatically, then at a later time have it come on automatically due to input, the sub is working though there is no control with the remote (tried both) volume, memory, anything - no control.

Disconect the unit from power for 2-3 hours, then manual power on, control returns with the IR. repeat the above process and I lose control.
Same goes with setting the unit up as a master or slave with RS232.

Through my retailer the local distributor has advised to take it to a repairer so he can check the wiring. In my opinion, this issue is too consistant to be loose wiring.
I'd really like to be without the sub for minimal time as it is functioning and we've just finished our dedicated Theatre.

Any ideas?

Aaron

Gents, looking for your assistance.
I'm the proud owner of two DD-15's.

The 2nd I purchased about 12 months ago which was one of the last here in Australia prior to the change to the DD+ series.

AHistory: The unit arrived with what appeared to be a replacement amp installed as the software advised that it was a DD-18 and software version was one that was not standard.
It took over a month to get the software sorted between a Head of Customer Service at Velodyne US and the Australian Distributor though I was having intermittent issues with my remote which I registered with my local retailer.
Wasnt a major concern as the unit was used for a short period then boxed as I was moving house. I've now set the units up again and am having issues with the control of the newer DD.
Issue
Plugging the unit in I have full control with the IR remote.
Let the unit turn off automatically, then at a later time have it come on automatically due to input, the sub is working though there is no control with the remote (tried both) volume, memory, anything - no control.

Disconect the unit from power for 2-3 hours, then manual power on, control returns with the IR. repeat the above process and I lose control.
Same goes with setting the unit up as a master or slave with RS232.

Through my retailer the local distributor has advised to take it to a repairer so he can check the wiring. In my opinion, this issue is too consistant to be loose wiring.
I'd really like to be without the sub for minimal time as it is functioning and we've just finished our dedicated Theatre.

Any ideas?

Aaron

This does not sound like any issue I have ever heard of before.

If I am understanding you correctly, the subwoofer works perfectly until it goes into standby and it powers back on with auto on feature. Does this occure 100% of the time, or intermittently?

You say the same thing happens in the master slave mode. Is the subwoofer with the issue being placed as the slave? If you connect the video display to the slave subwoofer, does the screen state the subwoofer is in slave mode? In slave mode the IR does not function at all, all commands are relayed from the master sub via the RS-232.

Hello Rob
Thanks for the prompt reply.

Yes, I'd say that this occurs either every or 99.9% of the time when the sub resumes from sleep when it receives an LFE signal. I cannot think of a situation that it hasn't.
To confirm, the sub will power up and produce LFE just fine, just the sub will not respond (light blink) to any IR commands after it has gone into an auto sleep state.

I've tried it as both master or slave.
In a freshly powered up state as either a master it works as it should - it'll receive commands and pass to slave, or as a slave receive commands (light flashes) from the master.
Problem is consistent is that after auto resume it will not respond as either M or S. As Master it will also not pass on commands to slave.

I'll add - I unplugged the sub for an hour last night. plugged it back in and had full control with the remote.
It's now 9 hours later and I just tried to turn on the sub with the remote. It wont wake.
I'm 99% sure that if I unplug it, give it an hour, then plug it back in, it will respond in full to remote commands and work as it should.

That's the frustration, the sub will wake and produce LFE as it should though just wont respond to the remote till it's powered down for a period of time.
Turning the power on and off for 30 seconds will not fix it, it needs to be an extended period of time.

Rob, if there's any checking that you'd like me to do or take this offline, I'm happy to work with you in attempt to resolve this issue.

Regards

Aaron

I've bene contacted by local support via my retailer - looks like I'm getting a new Amp.

Fingers crossed.

I've bene contacted by local support via my retailer - looks like I'm getting a new Amp.

Fingers crossed.

I will also reply to your offline email

I own the SMS-1 and currently use it with a Definitive Tech PF 15TL+ Sub and a Pioneer VSX-D850S receiver. I will be replacing the old Pioneer with a Denon Denon AVR2112CI which has Audyssey MULTEQ XT. My qusetion is should I still use the SMS-1 if I run the MULTEQ XT? If so should I set up the SMS first or the MULTEQ XT?

Thanks!

BTW I have had my SMS-1 for years and really love it.