I don't know about the Yamaha Z9 in particular, but the IR pre/pro enables a boundary gain compensation option when selecting the Ultra2 sub option. Here is an explanation that I found.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/qa/qa2003/qa360.html

Q Do you have a pointer to the THX Ultra2 speaker design specifications? I am mainly interested in knowing the changes from the earlier specs.

A The actual THX specs are confidential to THX and its licensees. THX will divulge on request what sort of things they spec but not what the figure/parameter, etc., actually is.

[...]

The subwoofer spec has changed in that they must be anechoic flat to 20 Hz in order to accommodate larger and more varied spaces. Previously they needed to be anechoic flat to 35, albeit with a shallow (usually 2nd order) rolloff so that assumed room gain would take up the slack to 20 Hz. In practice, this worked very well in my opinion (much better than ported designs which reach a little lower, but then disappear all together). It worked so well in fact that Ultra2 SSPs must include the "Boundary Compensation" option which is a fancy way of saying they make an Ultra2 sub behave like an Ultra, because in most rooms, room gain and an Ultra2 sub end up yielding way too much bass. Go figure.


Brian

Originally posted by bkzoller
I don't know about the Yamaha Z9 in particular, but the IR pre/pro enables a boundary gain compensation option when selecting the Ultra2 sub option. Here is an explanation that I found.

Brian

Well that is what happens with my Z9, if i enable the option that my Sub is a THX Ultra 2 sub, the Z9 will then allow me to turn on Boundry Gain compensation. So really, the THX ultra 2 setting, doesn't in and of itself do anything. This would also make sense, as when i do enable the THX Ultra 2 setup option, i personally do not hear any change being made to the sound, (unless i am missing something more fundamental?)

But then, excuse my ignorance :), say i have now told the Z9 i do have a THX Ultra 2 Sub. How exactly does the new setting available i.e. Boundry gain compensation, help/not help me?
Do i just enable the feature and see if it sounds better, otherwise leave it off?

Thanks
KJ :)


PS.
Also i just tried to install the 1.6 firmware. I connected the the sub, the light flashed as it updated etc. but after the upload finished, the sub did not reinitialize itself. I waited about 5 min, then turned the sub phisically off and the on again to see if the update had still worked. It did not. So i then downloaded the version 1.5 firmware, installed that, and everything worked fine. I just thought that it was a bit odd :(

Originally posted by Krazykaj
Well that is what happens with my Z9, if i enable the option that my Sub is a THX Ultra 2 sub, the Z9 will then allow me to turn on Boundry Gain compensation. So really, the THX ultra 2 setting, doesn't in and of itself do anything. This would also make sense, as when i do enable the THX Ultra 2 setup option, i personally do not hear any change being made to the sound, (unless i am missing something more fundamental?)

But then, excuse my ignorance :), say i have now told the Z9 i do have a THX Ultra 2 Sub. How exactly does the new setting available i.e. Boundry gain compensation, help/not help me?
Do i just enable the feature and see if it sounds better, otherwise leave it off?

Thanks
KJ :)


I think that is correct. The Ultra2 option only reveals the boundary gain compensation option to be enabled or disabled, but probably doesn't do anything else. It sounds like the BGC option enables a gradual filter starting at 35 Hz, according to the link I posted. I suppose it will make the Ultra2 subwoofer perform like an Ultra subwoofer.

If you engage that option and run the DD series calibration procedure, is it possible to get a graph of the output? That would seem to be the easiest way to find out what the option does, if it works like that.

Brian

Originally posted by bkzoller

If you engage that option and run the DD series calibration procedure, is it possible to get a graph of the output? That would seem to be the easiest way to find out what the option does, if it works like that.


If it works like my upgraded Denon 5800 then THX Ultra 2 BGC has no effect when the signal is analog. It will only work with a digital signal. The DD graph will show the same regardless of whether BGC is on or off.

The DD's output is analog so when you calibrate it for a flat response and then switch back to watching a dvd or tv with a digital signal and the BGC is on, you'll lose bass output from around 55hz downwards.

To be honest, BGC is best left off as you can trim the response with the DD.

When I had a dual SVS setup before I bought my DD15 the BGC was very handy at trimming out the low end but I no longer need to use it now that I have a flat response with the DD. :)

Just to add. If I select that I have a THX Ultra 2 Sub that extends to 20hz I get the option to engage BGC but lose the Subwoofer Peak Limiter option from the main setup menu. If I select that it doesn't extend to 20hz, then the Subwoofer Peak Limiter option remains. I assume this is the same for the Yamaha?

In my setup I've selected THX Ultra 2 sub that extends to 20hz but left BGC off. Works well for me. :)

Thanks for the help.
I still have plenty of playing/tweaking to do with DD-18 :D and I’m looking forward to it.

Also, just for a taste of what is to come once I’ve properly setup, I watched the 'Star Wars' Pod Race scene, and the opening sequence in 'Master and Commander' . . . Wow! :) can't imagine it getting too much better.

Nice support thread going here by the way, other manufactures/companies should take a hint and follow suit!

Cheers
KJ

Might want to check out Flight of The Phoenix - DTS for a test of what the DD can really do. ;)

but don't watch it(FOTP) before you watch the original...it'll probably ruin it.

Hello again,
Sorry but I have another quick question . . .

I just realised that the feet on the DD-18 are removable by unscrewing them.

My floor is carpet with a thick underlay, but under that is solid concrete (not the best, I know, but nothing much I can do at the moment).

What is the best way to have the sub?

Off the carpet, on the Feet, or . . .
Laying 'feetless', directly flat on the carpet?

Thankyou,

Cheers
KJ

Hi,
My suggestion is feet-less. That's the way I have my eighteens and I'm carpet on concrete.
Curt

I was wondering if anyone here has used the DD 15 or 18 with Lexicon MC12 V4. I have a MC12 V4 with a single paradigm servo 15 with Active paradigms front center back and sides, I have been trying to pickup one more servo 15 but they are hard to find.
But now Iam thinking about just selling the one I have and picking up a couple DD 15's. With V4's room correction which is from 20hz to 250 hz I was wondering how and were the DD eq would come in to play. My room is 14.6wide and 21.6 deep 8.3high all inside measurements Iam sure one DD 15 would be fine but with the room correction in the MC 12 and the DD eqs I think having two sub would really be great.

thanks in advance
Brad

[QUOTE]Originally posted by curt c
Which serial cable were you using? It has to be a mouse extender cable. A modem cable will not work. A couple of pins are reversed on the modem cable. We have the proper cable if you can't find the right one.



Well it's somewhat reassuring to see I'm not the only Velodyne owner pulling his hair out trying to do what should be a simple upgrade procedure!

I've owned two DD-15's since last summer. I buy a new laptop every year. I haven't owned a laptop with a RS-232 serial port for years. The only ports I've got are USB and Firewire.

Why in the world did Velodyne produce state of-the-art subwoofers coupled with such an archaic upgrade path and cable? Requiring an RS-232 9-pin port is bad enough, but then to require a Mouse Extension serial cable to be used with it instead of a Standard RS-232 cable is really being difficult and not user-friendly!

My Anthem Statement D1 Pre/Pro still requires upgrades via RS-232, but at least it is simple for me to perform the upgrade with an easy to buy USB/Serial Cable Adapter. But I can't use that with the DD-15 because Velodyne decided to require a Mouse Extension Serial Cable instead of a Standard RS-232 cable.

To my knowledge and after considerable Google searching, there does not exist a USB/Mouse Extension Serial Cable Adapter. So what am I supposed to do? Buy some old, used out-dated laptop with an RS-232 port just so I can update my dual DD-15's?

It's nice to learn in some other recent post that Velodyne has seen the error of their ways and intends to use a USB port in the next hardware revision of the DD series, but it doesn't help me. Instead of Velodyne having the "proper cable" to sell us = a Mouse Extension Serial Cable available at any CompUSA, what Velodyne should be doing is working with Belkin or some other appropriate vendor to develop a currently unavailable anywhere USB/Mouse Extension Serial Cable for us present DD series owners with modern laptops, who won't benefit from the next revision DD's with USB.

I guess I'll have to buy an old RS-232 laptop on eBay for a few hundred bucks just so I can upgrade my dual DD-15's.

Not a happy camper stuck in Version 1.4! (But, I sure do love the sound of my DD-15's!)

Chris Cargen

Lets hope they provide a USB hardware upgrade path for existing owners.

You CAN find USB->Serial adapters that will work easily though.

Brad,

I have a similar set-up: Lexicon MC12B V4 and a DD15. My room is a dedicated theater 21x15x8 although I have a 4x5 entry at the back corner of my room. I've tried the following set-up options:

1. V4 plus Velo EQ
2. V4 W/O Velo EQ
3. No V4 with Velo EQ

My preferred setting was V4 W/O the Velo EQ (option 2). I do have to admit to my ears the differences were subtle between options 1 & 2 above, but both options 1 & 2 were better then option 3. I use the mid EQ setting (default) for V4.

To set up my sub, I used the Velo EQ system to help find the location as close to flat as possible in my room by placing the DD15 in my "captain’s chair" and then moved the mic around the room until I found the flattest response curve. After locating that spot (front of the room next to my center channel) I then ran the auto eq function on the Lex and engaged V4. It was from this location that I tried the 3 different set-ups noted above. I had to adjust the Velo EQ for options 1 & 3 as the setting were different. BTW, Dr. Jim Muller who is the architect behind V4 has stated on the Lexicon forum that he believes option 2 is the preferred option as well. At the same time he mentioned he’s a bit bias and that both options 1 or 2 will sound great. Once Velodyne comes out with their auto set-up, I’ll see if that makes a difference. I doubt it, but you never know :-).

By way of background I upgraded to a single DD15 from a single Earthquake Supernova 15 MKIV, I found the differences to be much greater then expected between these subs. There is a lot more depth and presence to the sound of the DD15. The bass is cleaner and much tighter. To me the difference is much more noticeable on music than movies, but IMHO the DD15 is superior for both music and movies as compared to the Earthquake. I was originally planning to purchase 2 DD15's but after talking to my dealer I decided to get one first and if at a later date I still wanted more visceral response to then add a second DD15. I'm 90% sure I'll add another DD15 for the extra oomph, but I do not think it's necessary. A single DD15 has a lot of power…but as we all know this pursuit for A/V perfection can become an obsession.

I hope this helps, have fun.

Pete

Pete
Thanks for the input I will let you know how it all turns out.

Thanks
Brad

Originally posted by cajunlab
Lets hope they provide a USB hardware upgrade path for existing owners.

You CAN find USB->Serial adapters that will work easily though.


I HAVE a USB-> Serial Adapter and it does NOT work!

It works fine to upgrade my Anthem Statement D1 Pre/Pro, but NOT my Velodyne DD-15's.

That is the whole point of my rant above.

Chris Cargen

Strange....mine works fine....I too have no serial ports on my laptop.
I had to tell the firware update to use COM5.
Strangely it shows COM1, COM2 and COM5 even though there is no COM1 or COM2.

But you are right, it is nearly impossible to find a straight through serial cable at retail.

"I have a similar set-up: Lexicon MC12B V4 and a DD15. My room is a dedicated theater 21x15x8 although I have a 4x5 entry at the back corner of my room. I've tried the following set-up options:

1. V4 plus Velo EQ
2. V4 W/O Velo EQ
3. No V4 with Velo EQ"

I'am using option 1 here and I'am happy with this set-up, but option 2 might be worth too tinker with.

Bob

Originally posted by cajunlab
Strange....mine works fine....I too have no serial ports on my laptop.
I had to tell the firware update to use COM5.
Strangely it shows COM1, COM2 and COM5 even though there is no COM1 or COM2.

But you are right, it is nearly impossible to find a straight through serial cable at retail.

Cajunlab, you are on to something with your comment about "I had to switch the firmware update to COM5" because I just read the "Readme" that came with my Anthem Statement DI software installer which says "Installer now scans up to COM6 to establish serial communication - it was found that some USB-serial adapters use virtual assignments COM5 and COM6".

But in the Velodyne Digital Drive Software Update Version 1.5 and 1.6, I see only two options to select, either COM1 or COM2. Cajunlab, how were you able to select COM5???? Perhaps it is because of my PC or PC software (Windows 2000) configuration or something that limits me to COM1 or COM2, but if i was able to update my Anthem D1 with the same hardare and USB-> Serial Cable

If that is the case, then it seems to me Velodyne needs to revise its Software Update Installers to do what Anthem did - namely, to get their Installer to AUTOMATICALLY scan "up to COM6 to establish serial communication".

Velodyne, how about researching this and providing some customer service to your high ticket customers?

Help!

Chris Cargen

Chris,

I had the same problem, this is what I use:

http://www.ebusinesscables.com/usb_serial_cable.htm

and the mouse extender from Frys ($4.99) (DB9 M->F).

Once you installed the driver, COM5 will popup in the update screen as an option, and the blue and amber light (on the sub) will be blinking in fast succession, to indicate successful update. Then, you are set.

I had the issue with extender I bought from CompUSA, it refuses to work. Initially, the thought was on the COM reassignment (thinking that COM1 is a requirement), but it turned out to be not the case. Hope it helps.

Good luck,
Frances

Originally posted by cargen

...it seems to me Velodyne needs to revise its Software Update Installers to do what Anthem did - namely, to get their Installer to AUTOMATICALLY scan "up to COM6 to establish serial communication".

Chris Cargen

Hi Chris,
Sorry for the confusion. The Velodyne updater already scans all your serial ports. I just plugged in a Keyspan 19H USB to serial adaptor and the update utility did not recognize it as COM6 until I went to the Keyspan site and downloaded/installed the driver for it. Then everything worked fine - see the attached JPG. Could your adaptor not have installed correctly?

Re the mouse extension cable, we have those at a nominal charge. Just email sales@velodyne.com and we'll take care of you.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Bruce,

Thanks for your reply and effort to assist. I finally just gave up trying to use my laptop. Drove over to a friend's office across town, unplugged an old desktop PC, keyboard, monitor, mouse etc. lugged it back to my home and down to my theater room, hooked it all up and successfully performed the updates, broke it all down and lugged it back across town etc. A few hours lugging and hassling and all is well.

I had just performed the update to my Anthem Statement D1 the same day via RS-232 with my USB/Serial Adapter, so there's no reason the Adapter itself shouldn't have worked updating the DD-15's. I had the correct 9-pin Mouse Exrtension Cable.

My adapter doesn't happen to be a Keyspan, but since it worked for you, I just ordered one so it will hopefully work for future software updates to my two DD-15's.

I sincerely appreciate your personal efforts to assist me, the quality of your products and you and your staff's willingness to support this AVS thread as promptly and completely as you do.

Thank you.

Chris Cargen

I’ve been very happy with my Velodyne Deco Sub/Sat system for over a year now. But my receiver is acting up and I’d like to take the opportunity to upgrade to one of the new “digital amp” receivers such as the Panasonic SA-XR-70. However guys on other AVS threads advise against using 4-ohm speakers with the XR-70.

Have the Deco speakers been tested with any of the new digital amps? Do you have any suggestions for a replacement mid-priced receiver?

Thanks,
Rock

Hi,
I sent the Deco system to a reviewer who used them with a Panasonic digital unit. He reported they worked fine together. You might also consider a receiver with a high current design.
Curt

Curt, do you ever have folks beta test DD software? Ever consider having folks here do some beta testing?

Will the SMS-1 have balanced XLR inputs and outputs? The outputs could be important depending on the distance between the rack unit and the sub.

Brian

Hi Brian,
Here is the configuration for the SME-1.

For input it is the same as DD: Mono XLR (balanced), Speaker level L&R, line level L&R, all summed.

For output, there is Line level L&R with 80 Hz crossover, thru jacks L&R, three LFE (mono) line level outputs (all sending the same signal), and a (mono) XLR balanced LFE out.

There are also the EQ outs, video out, and mic out like on DD.

Thanks,
Curt

Originally posted by curt c
Hi Brian,
Here is the configuration for the SME-1.


Thanks for the info. :)

Brian

Bruce or Curt: I noticed that some of the Velo subs maximum output are rated in terms of PEAK power and other in terms of DYNAMIC. I also notice that some manufacturers use both. What gives? I personally stick to the RMS or continuous rating when matching my equipment to the size and acoustics of the space I use, always calculating a little extra in there, rather then concerning myself with headroom. Also, without the use of sensitivity ratings on subs any more doesn't this become a moot issue?

Ian:)

Hi,
RMS is a continuous power rating. Peak and dynamic are interchangeable and are ratings for short term power. A well designed amplifier can have short term peaks equal to or a little more than double the RMS rating. Velodyne like most manufacturers lists both RMS and peak (or dynamic) power ratings.
Curt

Curt; I understand that. What makes this issue confusing is that some sub manufacturers use Peak and Dynamic power as different ratings. To my recollection the Dynamic power rating originally was referred to as IHF.
It was issued by the Institute Of High Fidelity and was later replaced by
the RMS or continuous output rating because even though it took into consideration low distortion values it only referred to an amplifiers short term headroom. Peak was considered by many audiophiles to be a superficial rating because it represented only instantaneous power with out distortion being a major issue. The other other point I was getting to was the fact that with out knowing speaker sensitivity it would be more difficult to compare the output of different brands or even just different skus. I think Tom Nousaine put it quite eloquently when he said in a recent review: "While amplifier power is definitely an important factor in a subwoofers performance, there are no consistent standards for measuring it." He also stated that manufacturers are moving away from publishing ratings and that it was a refreshing trend: " It doesn't matter if a manufacturer boasts that it's sub uses a 1000 watts, if another can can achieve the same result with 100. It all has to do with what comes out of it and thats what we measure." My other question is then, with out all the necessary technical data, why even bother publishing these specifications?
As always I appreciate your contributions to this forum and Bruce's too. Also see my new thread on this issue.

Ian:D

I have two DD15's (in stereo mode) with a remote eye and RS232 cross connect. (Connecting video to each confirms that both are running V1.6)

Everything works as expected except for a power or on/off issue.

When the system has been running, I can turn off the amps etc (no music signal) and press the power button on the remote (directed at remote eye). The DD15s do not turn off. If I aim the remote at the DD15 itself (with the remote eye), same result. If I aim the remote at the slaved DD15, then I can turn it (only) off and on.

If the system has not been running, so the DD15s have are auto shutdown, then the remote aimed at the remote eye can be used to turn the DD15s of and on and off and on etc.

If the system has been shut off with the remote, the speakers to not wake up automatically with music signals. Then if turned on with the remote, on and off actions with the remote work fine. I can get the system into this state when the music has been off and I turn on the DD15s with the remote, then turn them off with the remote. And once turned on with the remote and music has been and continues to play, the remote will power on and off both DD15s as expected.

So there seems to be a difference depending on whether the system was turned of with the remote or did an auto shutdown after a lack of music on the inputs.

So perhaps someone could consider the logic for power on/off from the remote when the system has been in auto-wake/auto-sleep operation. The problem seems to isolated to shutdown with the remote of an active system when the DD15s auto started with music signals. Problem seems to not occur when the DD15s have been cycled through on/off with the remote after DD15s have gone into auto-sleep mode.

Curt / Bruce
I'm moving to a velodyne DD
My room is about 16 x 12 x 10 ceiling and I play only home theater at loud levels.
Can I buy a DD-18, or it would be a waste of resources an I should go for a DD-12 / DD-15?
Thanks. Aurelio

What might be a useful feature in a future firmware update would be a volume UP/DOWN for current preset. This way you can balance the sub for the current preset your are configuring without having to navigate into the main menu to do it, and without changing ALL the volumes Up and down. Its easily manageable now, however, and the latest 1.6 code set is fantastic.

Just a suggestion.

John

Originally posted by aurelio
Curt / Bruce
I'm moving to a velodyne DD
My room is about 16 x 12 x 10 ceiling and I play only home theater at loud levels.
Can I buy a DD-18, or it would be a waste of resources an I should go for a DD-12 / DD-15?
Thanks. Aurelio

Hi,
If your room is contained (not open) then a DD-12 or DD-15 would be recommended. Your "play loud" requirement would move me to the DD-15.
If you want "really loud" and plenty of reserve, then definitely consider the DD-18.
Curt

Beyond the plenty of reserve, a DD-18 would play better than DD-15 or, in my little room, would be only a question of loudness?

My subwoofer must cover the range until 80hz (and all LFE).

Thank you again. Aurelio

Loudness.
Curt

Velodyne Sub Problem please help me diagnose


I have had a Velodyne HGS15Sub for about 3 years and all of a sudden I am experiencing a wierd creaking sound like a really loud floor or door creak during heavy sub usage such as a battle scene or fight scene.

Any Ideas?

BTW all my speakers are calibrated with a sound level meter.

I did not know there was a seperate thread for Velodyne support, sorry for the double post

Hi,
You need to contact our service department at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt!
Sorry if this question has been asked before but how do I bypass the crossover & slope on DD-15? I am waiting for my DD-15 to arrive & plan to connect it to Anthem AVM-30 via XLR input & setup crossover in the Anthem & use DD-15 only for EQ. My room is 22x13x9 ft.(approx 2600 cu. ft.). Thanks.

Hi,
In the current software put the low pass crossover at "199" and save that setting. In the 2.0 software, which should be available in the next week or two there is a designation for "crossover bypass".
Thanks,
Curt

Appreciate your prompt response. Can I set the sub level in the prepro & if so then how do I override the volume setting in the sub or do I need to set the volume of the sub at a pre-determined level & then adjust the level in the prepro? That way I can use the sub just for EQ & bass. Sorry for all the questions as this is my first foray into a high end/high tech sub & it is a bit intimidating. Thanks.

DPS 12. See review below. Keep in mind all measurements were taken by
Tom Nousaine in a 7500 cubic foot room. Quoted price is MSRP.

Ian


http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=5&article_id=663&page_number=11

Originally posted by vinodk
Appreciate your prompt response. Can I set the sub level in the prepro & if so then how do I override the volume setting in the sub or do I need to set the volume of the sub at a pre-determined level & then adjust the level in the prepro? That way I can use the sub just for EQ & bass. Sorry for all the questions as this is my first foray into a high end/high tech sub & it is a bit intimidating. Thanks.

Hi,
The best method is to set the bass level in the pre/pro to about half way up or a little higher and then adjust the subwoofer volume up or down as needed. Most receivers and pre/pro come with the bass volume set to half.
Curt

"I guess I am looking for something that has high WAF (smaller, grilled or downfiring), and adequete power for the room. Price range is anywhere from $200 - $600. Might go higher if the silver bullet was there. Sweet spot pricing wise is probably at the 400-500 range. Any recomendations in the Velo line"? [/B]


Hi,
It appears you're on the plus side of 4000 cubic feet. The "silver bullet" in the budget price line would be the DLS-5000R. It's certainly our "bang for the buck" product. Price is a couple of hundred more than your stated budget and it is a fairly large unit. Below that I would look at the DLS-4000R or the DPS-12.
Thanks,
Curt

Question for the masses:

Just now fixing to fire up the HTS... This sunday.... just got everything in place tonight... going out of town for the next few days...

I have a Velo Vx10 sub....

Question on the crossover... and phase button....
Should I set the cross over at 80%? or lower?
Does the phase botton do anything..?

the system will be mostly on for movies... and Reg Dish TV....

last question....

Do I need a Y split rca cable for the the sub... ?
Do I need both the L and R ? on the sub in use?

I have asked this many times and never get the same answer more then 4 times..

Thanks..

Kix: See my PM. I also sent one to Bruce for clarification.

Ian

I would like just one straight answer:

The manual shows Just a single rca cable with single rca plugs at both ends. {connect one end to the Subwoofer output jack on the receiver and the other in the left audio jack on the VX10}.

I have read many posts in this forum as well as Bruces answer was to use a rca cable with a Y split on one end to connect that end to both the L and R audio jacks on the back of the sub.

Many have posted that U just need a single rca plug with single plugs on both ends. And have reported their subs sound fine.

So which is best? If both ways will work fine...

If one plug on either end will work? why put L and R audio plugs on the back of the sub?

Kix,
Here is the official "Velodyne" hook up recommendation for the VX/VRP subwoofers. We will update the manual in the future.
1) When using line level (sub out jack from receiver) always use a "Y" splitter into both subwoofer input jacks. When using speaker level hook up follow the instructions in the manual.
2) Set the volume on the Velodyne at about 9 o'clock (about 1/4 of the way up). Raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver to provide adequate output.
3) Put the phase switch on the subwoofer to the position that provides the most output, usually "0".
If you have additional questions please call me direct at; 480-595-7141 or email me at; curt@velodyne.com.
Thanks for the question and sorry for the confusion.
Curt

curt c:
Thank You very much for clearing that up.

Now to set this system up.

Hope this answers a few question for all the VX10 owners.

Well: Went all over town today... trying to find one of these fine cords.

What a joke for a town i live in...Walmart nor radio shack had any of these in stock.... maybe thats because parts express bought all there stock... lol...

Maybe i need to open up a store just for this matter!!!! All Your HTS needs.

Anyway... parts express has them for a low price... for those that are interested...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=189-300

Thanks again Curt.

Curt C: Set the volume on the Velodyne at about 9 o'clock (about 1/4 of the way up). Raise the volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver to provide adequate output.

Curt: As I mentioned in my PM to Bruce, I seem to get better results when
I set the receiver's line level out (LFE) to 0(flat) and THEN set the gain on the sub. Accourding to my owner's manual: " The Volume control allows you to balance the output from the subwoofer to the main speakers/amplifier in your system. This control should be set to achieve similar output levels from both the main speakers and subwoofer" I fine tune my line level now from 0 to +4 depending on the source with the gain around 12 o'clock. At 9 o'clock the subs volume is too low and you would have to set the line level close to MAX (10) to get enough output. Don't forget this is only a 100 watt sub. I have told a lot of members how I do my set up and they have gotten very good results. ( And yes I am using a Y connector.)

Ian;)

Ian,
With your receiver that may work satisfactory. Overall the best method with the VX/VRP is to keep the volume on the Velodyne around 9 or 10 o'clock and raise the output in the receiver for the subwoofer output jack. In your case I would try taking your receiver up to about +4 to +6 and back off on the volume control of the Velodyne.
I know what the manual says and as I said before that will be changed.
Curt

As a general rule of thumb you normally balance out your system by setting the levels from your receiver to 0 or flat and then make your adjustments setting the output of your satellites and subwoofer using a test tone. Because of the unique characteristics of the VX10 your recommending a specific adjustment of the gain control and then tuning the line level out accordingly. I will experiment with these adjustments to see what kind of results I will get. Thanks.

Ian;)

Curt; I am setting up a new home system. I listen 50/50 HT to 2 channel. I have a Classe Delta 2 Channel sysem with HT pass thru with a Denon 5803A for HT. I also have 2 Classe CAM 350 mono amps connected to both the Classe Delta and the Denon fronts. My speakers are B&W 800D (new diamond series) in front B&W N802s in the rear and will be getting a matching Diamon series front channel. My room is 20X19 with 8 1/4 foot ceilings. What DD drive should I go with (based on the room size)? How should I hook up the drive so I can enjoy the sub in both 2 channel and HT? Based on these speakers, what crossover should I set? Thanks in advance for your support.

I sent you a PM.
Curt

I just received my DD-18. It has ver 1.6 already on it but most of the discrete codes posted on remotecentral.com do not work.

The other issue is when I try and learn the volume down code on my Pronto TSU7000. Once learned and I press the button on the Pronto it actually turns the subwoofer off. I have tried to learn the code several times with the same results.

The other problem is learning the volume up code so that I can hold down the volume button on the Pronto and have the code repeat continuously. I tried learning it by holding the button down until the code is accepted and I tried just pressing it for a second.

Can I take the code thats in the file on remote central and just somehow convert it to repeat?

Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks
Derick

Any update on v2 availability?

Yes, and also is there any update on the ETA of the SMS-1 stand-alone EQ?

Thanks,
Patrick

Hi Guys,
Tweeter is discontinuing the VX10...is this a Tweeter decision or is there a newer sub coming?

Frank

Hi there, I'm really enjoying this sub, but there's one little annoying aspect I'm hoping you may have a solution for.

I have it set to auto mode. There's an annoying little click when the sub switches itself on and off (i.e. in time with the little blue light). Is it possible to stop this? In low volume movies/music situations, it is noticeable.

Thanks and kind regards, JP
PS: this was sent in an email to service@velodyne.com on 2 April, but no reply to-date.

Woot!!
Had to post my results.

After 4 months of buying all my HTS peice by peice.
and 2 months of remodel of the living room.

Yesterday I spent 6 hours hooking and wireing everything up, and 1 1/2 hours of setting the receiver and speakers. {Test Tones & Calibrations}
{7.1} set up.

Pioneer 1014
Infinity Primus speakers{5 of them}
Rear surrounds-Pioneers from my old system.{Will upgrade later}
Velo VX10 sub

I hooked up and set the sub up with {Curts} advice.

1. Y split RCA cable... Radio shacks Model...
2. Crossover set at 80%
3. Phase button set at 0
4. Volume at sub set at 10 oclock position.
5. Volume for sub coming out from receicver set at +6.

My living room is not that big at 15x20 but with that setting.
With the sub placed directly in front of the viewing area. {Shakes the whole viewing area.}

The sub sounds awsome! But this is the first True HTS I have ever owned so my thoughts might not be the same as a person who has owned 300 to 1K dollar subs, but for $129 dollars.... I feel it was money well spent.

I'm sure I can tweek it a bit more, to make it even sound better.
In time i will.

Now to spend time setting the db level on all the speakers.

Special thanks to Curt and to Mailiang for all the advice.

Kix

Glad everything works well for you. Good luck and enjoy!

Ian

Originally posted by fabulousfrankie
Hi Guys,
Tweeter is discontinuing the VX10...is this a Tweeter decision or is there a newer sub coming?

Frank

Since Bruce and Curt are on vacation (just kidding) I'll cover for them on this question for now.

To my knowledge the VX10 is not being discontinued or replaced. I competed with Tweeter when I was in the car stereo wholesale business and they have a habit of frequently changing and up dating lines. The VRP 1000 is very similar and it is possible that they like Circuit City will be carrying that model instead. I suggest you contact your local outlet and see what they have to say.

Ian ;)

How big of an opening do you need in order to consider adjacent rooms? Does the position of the opening, sub, and seating matter?

My family room is about 15x18x9.5. The right wall (18') is open for 1/3 of it, then a half-wall for the next 1/3, then a full wall. The sub is in the top-left corner and the seating is on the back wall. I've had two different subs there (a 12" ported, and a 10" sealed) and have had no problem with SPLs over the subs' expected range.

My HT is about 18x16x7.5 and has a rear wall opening that is about 6' wide. There is also a shadow box where the screen is that is about 2'deep (see my gallery for some pics). I can put the sub anywhere, though I was considering putting it on the middle of the stage (against the wall) or placing two subs on either side of the stage. I can also use the corners of the room.

Based on what I have read I need an 18" sub. On the other hand, my 10" sub does well even though the room it is in has a much larger opening. Any thoughts?
I am considering an SPL 1200II, an HGSx 12 or 15, and a DD-10.

Thanks,

Hi,
Yes rooms can be unpredictable. Any opening, even a doorway is a bass escape. Sometimes it becomes trial and error. For your projected home theater room and the subs you mention, my first choice would be the HGS -15X. Another option would be start with a HGS-12X or SPL-1200II and add a second if necessary. Since it appears you already own a sub you could give that one a trial run in your new room and see what you think. Home Theater certainly (for most) requires more output and reserve than it's music counterpart.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt: How much is that doorway an issue if your subs is in the direct opposite side of the room? My sub is near the right front corner and my
stairwell opens to the left rear of the seating area which is in the middle
of my 10X20 ft room.


Regards,
Ian

It can be an issue anywhere. You need to experiment with location of the subwoofer and see where it's the least issue. Go up the stairway and see how much bass there is. That will give you an idea of the "leakage". Opposite sides may be less of an issue. You never want to place the sub near the opening. You indicated your system was performing well, so not to worry.
Curt

Sorry a bit off topic, but there is a thread going on over at Audioholics about subs and there vibrations effecting audio components.
The Thread (http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9560&referrerid=4804)
I have a DD-18 and i would have thought it to be common sense not to put equipment in direct contact with the sub, as that thing really can shake!
As it would create a much higher possibility of hardare failure/breakage.

I was curious what your input is on placing hardware, whether it be an amp, a CD player or a crossover, on top of your sub.

Thanks
KJ

It's probably not a good idea, however at times I've done it. Electronics, and sometimes speakers. Not something I worry about.
Curt

After 10+ years on top of my 18' sub, the 2 amplifiers that sit on it are fine. The cabinets are supposed to be strong enough to not vibrate. I even placed a 3 gun Front projector on mine for a time. Worked perfectly. Get real guys.

just checking, i have to learn somehow :)

is there any update on the version 2 Firmware for the DD series?


KJ

At this time all I can say is SOON!
Curt

My room is approx 15 x 12 with 8 ft ceilings.
Hard wood floors, no openings to other rooms.

Like the SPL series partially for sound, partially for size.
Primarily for HT use right now.

I don't feel the SPL-800II would be quite enough.
Will the SPL-1000II be sufficient or should I condider the 12?

My local dealer is dropping the SPL's and will only carry the lower models so I can probably get a great deal.
Also like the Paradigm Seismic line (is it sacriligeous to say that in this thread?)

I would go for the SPL-1200II, though the 1000II will do a fine job. Reserve is a good thing!
Curt

Thanks Curt,

Will go see my dealer tomorrow and see what kind of dreal we can strike.

Good point....that reserve will come in handy if I move it into a bigger room.

Originally posted by DAlba
I just received my DD-18. It has ver 1.6 already on it but most of the discrete codes posted on remotecentral.com do not work.

The other issue is when I try and learn the volume down code on my Pronto TSU7000. Once learned and I press the button on the Pronto it actually turns the subwoofer off. I have tried to learn the code several times with the same results.

The other problem is learning the volume up code so that I can hold down the volume button on the Pronto and have the code repeat continuously. I tried learning it by holding the button down until the code is accepted and I tried just pressing it for a second.

Can I take the code thats in the file on remote central and just somehow convert it to repeat?

Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks
Derick


BUMP... Anyone?

Derek,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

At the risk of sounding like the child in the back of the car on a long trip asking whether we are there yet, how close are we to V2 of the firmware? Beta1? RC2?

The specs for V2 are very ambitous, if it is to work effectively in a wide range of rooms:

Auto EQ:
This will appear as a new option on the screen menu. When used, this feature will reset all EQ's to zero level and default third octave frequencies (20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100Hz) then automatically adjusts plus or minus 1/2dB each sweep if needed. This can be done on SET-UP (for all presets) or for individual presets.

Self EQ
If you need a quick fix and couldn't be bothered to hook-up the video or EQ output to the AV amp/processor, simply plug the mike in, hit 3-2-1 and the DD will put out 25 sweep tones and self EQ
This does not affect phase, crossover or other settings which you would obviously need to see via a video output.


Individual EQ's per preset
This pretty much speaks for itself. Each preset can have its own independent EQ set-up OR all can be affected throughout the set-up selection.


Defeatable low pass crossover
For people who thought 199Hz was simply not enough, now the LPC can be completely shut off. Superb addition to the DD arsenal


Selectable Default Pre-set
This is a new field on the settings page. Whatever preset is selected will be invoked at start up.


Light Blink Scheme
This is a great idea and carried over from the CHT-R range.
The Velodyne light will blink the number of times per each preset letting the user know which preset they are in.
IE, blinks twice times for preset two. There is also a new light blink scheme for the volume level. When volume (up or down) is pressed on the remote, the speed of blinks increases (or decreases) as volume level goes up (or down).


Full functionality on graph screen with the test button
While the test button showed the graph screen, previously the only way to adjust settings was to press test again and go back to the settings screen for adjustments and press test again.

The graph screen is now fully functional and hitting the test button again puts you back in exactly where you left off on the settings screen.


Graph Overlay
This really is a very welcome addition for me. I set up a lot of DD's and this will make the job a lot easier if users still want to tinker with their DD's manually.
This has been done by not erasing the previous graph until the new graph overlays it. Users can now see exactly what's taken place.


SET-UP Column Lock
This setting locks the common set-up values. Previously, a change to the setup column would overrideand individual preset changes. Users are advised to complete their global setup using the setup values then freeze the setup column and adjust individual presets as desired.


Navigation Control
You can hit up/down, left/right and select.
If you prefer the old way of 'navigation on speed', this whizzy system is still in place so you now have a choice

according to avtalk.co.uk

The auto-calibration will be a killer feature, but for my part, I would rather have it robust and fully working, including the possibility of further manual adjustment/override, or not at all.

Can EQ be fine-tuned manually after running the Auto-EQ in v2?

Originally posted by vinodk
Can EQ be fine-tuned manually after running the Auto-EQ in v2?

Now THAT would be awesome!

Also, it'd be nice to be able to adjust how long the auto-on/off function takes to turn off when there is no signal.

How do I make DD-15 stay in the last chosen preset? Every time the sub turns off it defaults to preset 4.
Thanks.

With 2.0, there will be a feature, Selectable default preset. It will turn on to the selected preset. (See description above) Again I can only say availability is soon.
Curt

Is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of the Auto/On feature on my DD-18?

While watching tv at low volume the sub does not automatically come on.

If not, is it ok to leave it on all the time?

BTW, I have it connected from the Left/Right pre-outs from an Onkyo TX-NR1000 to the Left/Right inputs on sub.

Thanks

Hi,
I would try increasing the output volume for the subwoofer in your Onkyo. It appears you may not be getting enough input signal. If that doesn't help contact out service dept. at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Curt

I searched this thread and didn't find anyone ask this question so here goes.

Do subs need cones or something to that effect for better performance?

I have a DLS-4000 that didn't come with anything when I purchased it as a dealer demo.

In my experience subs do not need cones. They usually like floors. Some will have different opinions, that's audio.
Curt

When you use the line level out, I know that there is a built in high pass crossover that starts at 85 in the CHT-10. However, if I adjust the low pass crossover on the lack, will that somehow affect the frequency level that roll off will start at? I am trying to have the line level out crossover to start at 60-70 or so and output starting at that level.

Thanks

Love my DD-15 after EQ. Now I know what pitch accurate bass means. No more BOOM BOOM. Infact the soundstage of the speakers seems to have improved which my be due to sub not intruding into the speakers audio spectrum. Can't wait for v2.

If has been previously posted but not answered.

Does anyone know the expected ship date of the Velodyne SMS-1 DSP System? Can you pre-order it?

I wants one and I need one.

Thanks

Pat

Pat,
We're very good at making subwoofers, not so good at projecting dates. We hope to have the SMS-1 in the July-August time frame. They will be sold through Velodyne dealers.
Thanks,
Curt

" However, if I adjust the low pass crossover on the back, will that somehow affect the frequency level that roll off will start at"?

Raul,
The high pass filter will always be the same. However it is a gentle (6db) roll off so it will only be down a couple of db at 70hz, so that should work fine for your application.
Curt

There have been a couple of posts lately on this issue.

Folks using RCA inputs have been advised to use a Y splitter and load both inputs to have higher input levels.

I use speaker line inputs*. (I have a Aragon 8008 DC coupled amp with very little distorion in the lowest base as there is no distortion from a feedback caps.) I find that at some low listening levels the amp will not turn on. However if I connect the speaker leads to both speaker inputs, I find that the the volume adjustent levels are too course and my typical volume range will be 10. This does not provide enough adjustment control.

So those using both sets of RCS input jacks, are you finding that the adjustment range is then too course and limited to a low number?

Perhaps there is an issue with auto turn-on levels VS useful volume control range. Someone asked about software adjustment feature for the turn-on feature. Perhjaps there is some merit for an adjustment of some sort.

DD15s X2 in stereo mode

* I have a Conrad Johnson PV-5 preamp and do not have a buffered outputs to use to drive subwoofers, so using speaker level inputs.

I am interested in knowing how the Velodyne dual tandem voice coil system works.

Is it just two voice coils, one behind the other?

Are they wound in the same way?

I do not see the advantage of this design over a common underhung voice coil system. If anyone knows, please explain.

IB

IB,
Velodyne determined that conventional motors are unacceptable when required to produce the linear motion we desired. We developed an improved motor structure by incorporating two coils, operating out of phase in a push-pull configuration within two magnetic gaps and suspended by dual spiders for greater linearity. with this unique configuration, the distortion products are reduced by a factor of two over conventional single coil structures with improved cone control.
The push-pull voice coil is designed and built in-house on a custom NC coil winding machine. This machine winds coils in a unique manner. There are two coils, each with two layers, wound on the same former. Two layers are first wound inside the former and then two layers on the outside. We then utilize polyimide resin impregnated fiberglass for the former. This material is capable of withstanding temperatures to 320 degrees C, which can occur when driven by our powerful amplifiers, resulting in excellent long-term power handling capability.
Thanks,
Curt

I thought it might be something like that. So you are trying to mimic the effects of an isobarik compound load design using just one woofer. The coils react in phase mechanically but are wired out of phase electrically, so that one pushs while the other pulls. Good idea. I remember Sansui had a similar design back in the 1980s, but they had the second voice coil mounted in front of the cone on an extension.

IB

PS

As Velodyne claims a THD figure of less than 1% or even less than .5% on some of its subwoofers, I assume this means that the cone material you use, Kevlar reinforced paper, is so stiff that any improvements in stiffness would not yield improvements in distortion levels more than a fraction of 1% THD.

There are many exotic cone materials, such as titanium, aluminum coated with ceramic, magnesium-aluminum alloys, etc., but am I correct in suggesting that they would really make no audible difference in your design because the distortion is already so low, and achieved largely by controlling the voice coil movements electrically, that cone stiffness has reached a point of little significance beyond current design levels? In other words, even if you could make an infinitely stiff cone it would sound the same as your cones.

IB

am trying to decide between Velodyne SPL series II and Paradigm seismic.

impressed by both but heard them in different environments.

has anyone been able to compare them side by side.

will likely go for at a 10", maybe 12"

[QUOTE]Originally posted by inky blacks
[B]PS

"As Velodyne claims a THD figure of less than 1% or even less than .5% on some of its subwoofers, I assume this means that the cone material you use, Kevlar reinforced paper, is so stiff that any improvements in stiffness would not yield improvements in distortion levels more than a fraction of 1% THD."

Hi,
You want a rigid, low mass piston. I feel the kevlar composite cone we are using is the best available choice.
Curt

Is it possible to EQ a second sub using DD-15? I have UFW-10 sitting idle & want to place it in the back with DD-15 in the front.

Hi,
While you can't really eq the UFW-10, you can eq the DD-15 while the second sub is playing. Then you are eq'ing for the total bass contribution.
Curt

Hi Curt!
If the crossover in the prepro is set at 80 Hz then do I need to EQ any frequency beyond the crossover point? I am hoping that if not then I can move those extra EQ sliders under crossover point & fine tune the EQ.
Thanks.

Hi,
If your pre/pro crosses over at 80 hz to the DD sub, then your eq'ing would essentially be below 80hz.
Curt

Great! Now I can move the slider from 100Hz & move it under 80Hz to fine tune the EQ as there is a small dip at 100Hz & seems like it may not be doing anything if the prepro is crossed over at 80Hz. How about setting the crossover in DD at 80Hz also, would there be a problem with cascading crossover?

Why would you want to use both crossovers? There is usually no particular problem with cascading crossovers and you could increase the slope by doing so, but in your case I see no reason to do so.
Curt

Thanks Curt. Time for me to play with DD-15 some more.

Hope someone can help me here....My Velodyne FSR 15 sub quit working...When i went to turn it on. the green light came on but i didn't here the clicking sound that activates the sub.

I hooked it up to my son receiver and still nothing.

Can someone help me......please

Please contact Velodyne Service at; service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2815.
Curt

I'm on it........Thank You

i bought my HGS 15 new in may of 2000.
it worked flawlessly since last august. it didnt turn on. i sent it in to velodyne and all was fixed (transformer problem).

i left for the weekend recently, came back and it was emitting a loud buzz.
i checked power and connections. it makes the buzz just by turning the unit on without any cables plugged in. the buzz clicks on after a few seconds. hooked up, no music come through. big problem.

last repair seemed like just a few months ago, the unit still looks fresh and was very well taken care of. is this a known problem? i fear i may have to drop another 300+ to get it fixed.

is the 5 yr mark a typical life of a product like this?

my email is deyorew@yahoo.com

Originally posted by vinodk
Can EQ be fine-tuned manually after running the Auto-EQ in v2?

Originally posted by theranman
Now THAT would be awesome!


And the answer is: Yes!

Unsure if this is the place to ask but...

I have a Velodyne Servo 1200.

It blew the driver several years ago. I was advised that Velodyne no longer have parts for the Servo series (circa 1990).

So I'm curious what to do - is there a newer drive I could substitute?

You are correct that we no longer have parts to service some older servo units. In these cases we may be able to offer you a newer (refurbished) subwoofer at a very reasonable price. Please contact David Santos our service manager at; 408-465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
We aim to Please!
Curt

Originally posted by lovealego
i bought my HGS 15 new in may of 2000.
it worked flawlessly since last august. it didnt turn on. i sent it in to velodyne and all was fixed (transformer problem).

i left for the weekend recently, came back and it was emitting a loud buzz.
i checked power and connections. it makes the buzz just by turning the unit on without any cables plugged in. the buzz clicks on after a few seconds. hooked up, no music come through. big problem.

last repair seemed like just a few months ago, the unit still looks fresh and was very well taken care of. is this a known problem? i fear i may have to drop another 300+ to get it fixed.

is the 5 yr mark a typical life of a product like this?

my email is deyorew@yahoo.com

You're lucky that it worked that long. Mine, an F1880, hummed right out of the container. Now it is so bad, I can not even use it. It is a table holdng a couple of Adcom and Yamaha amps. It is so heavy that I have been unable to move it to get the amp out and return it for repair.

Originally posted by lovealego
i bought my HGS 15 new in may of 2000.
it worked flawlessly since last august. it didnt turn on. i sent it in to velodyne and all was fixed (transformer problem).

i left for the weekend recently, came back and it was emitting a loud buzz.
i checked power and connections. it makes the buzz just by turning the unit on without any cables plugged in. the buzz clicks on after a few seconds. hooked up, no music come through. big problem.

last repair seemed like just a few months ago, the unit still looks fresh and was very well taken care of. is this a known problem? i fear i may have to drop another 300+ to get it fixed.

is the 5 yr mark a typical life of a product like this?

my email is deyorew@yahoo.com

You're lucky that it worked that long. Mine, an F1800, hummed right out of the container. Now it is so bad, I can not even use it. It is a table holdng a couple of Adcom and Yamaha amps. It is so heavy that I have been unable to move it to get the amp out and return it for repair. I am hoping to get help to move it soon. It has not been usable for a year. Before that, I lived with the hum.

Art,
As I've told you before, send the amp in and we'll fix it. Some of the early F-1800's did have a hum issue and any that I'm aware of have been repaired. Just send it in.
Curt

My son is coming home this weekend. I'll ask him to move it.

Art,
Please resend your last PM.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

I'm not able to locate it but basically I wished you well with your family and hoped your surgery would go well. Since then, I spoke with Mr. Santos who was very nice and helpful. we had a great time reminiscing about some common areas of our lives. I'll be sending the unit in next week. It is out on my lap. Mr. Dave Santos was very helpful. He believes the speaker may have been a gray market unit because someone cut the serial number out with a razor blade. I learned quite a bit from Dave re. the amps. Apparently the 600 Watt switching amp was used for a brief time before being replaced with the 1200 Watt amp that is used in the HGS models. I look forward to hearing how it will work when it returns in a month or so. Thanks for all your help. Velodyne is a great company and AFAIC the subwoofers provide a more realistic low end than anything else I've ever heard. that statement from a guy with 4 7 ft. high VMPS Super tower III's with a complement of a 2x 15", 1x 12" and 2x10" bass drivers in each unit. The accuracy of these speakers lets you feel low end material down to 17Hz.

Thanks, Art.
Curt

Curt:
I wish you and your family, good health. Keep well.

Regards,
Ian

Thanks Ian.
I will be out of commission two or three days the end of next week. Should be available the following week.
Take Care,
Curt

Hi Curt!
Is there a way to connect a second sub to DD so that I can EQ both subs with DD's EQ? Even after EQ in my room there is a null spot at the main seating position & I was hoping that adding a second sub will take care of this. My sub placement options are quite limited. Are there any other ways of EQ'ing a second sub in the room with DD's EQ? If so then how should I connect the second sub to the processor? I have Anthem AVM-30 which has 2 sub outs. BTW best of luck & take care.
Thanks.

I have done just that.
Keep in mind the DD software & mic does not know what device is generating the LFE. It just EQ's for whatever LFE it hears.

I use a simple Y-cable to split the signal going for my pre/pro to my DD-18 and my 2nd passive sub. I set the level of the amp ( Crown K1 ) driving the 2nd sub to an "approprite level". EQ the DD-18 as usual.

- Andy

Hi Andy!
The audio/video output from DD-15 is connected to the aux input of AVM30. So when DD-15 is generating the audio test tone for EQ, does that test tone run through the second sub also so that EQ is being done with both subs running? If I am wrong then please explain to me in a stepwise manner on how to connect the sub to prepro & how to EQ both subs at the same time with DD mic & software.
Thanks.

If you have two DD subs, set up one at a time, and each will be setup for its own location. If the second sub is not a DD-15, then the DD-15 will EQ out some of the other speakers characteristics. But when you adjust the volumes of these two different subs, the results will be less than correct as you cannot easily keep the volume ratios the same. And note that the DD-15 may be ruducing its output at frequencies that are distortion products from the other.

Ordered an SPL1200II today. My dealer is dropping the SPL series to focus on the lower models, so I got what I hope is a good price. I'll have 30 days to decide once I take delivery. Will also demo the Seismic 12 at the same time. Same price for each.

Two questions:

1. The brochure says the 1200 goes down to 22hz. This looks great on paper but the usual "+-3db" usaully associated with these measurements isn't mentioned. How deep does it really go?

2. The black lacquer finish on the store demo appears to be bubbling along the rounded corners on the cabinet, as if the finish is one big black sticker. Is this phenomenon common?

Thanks

Hi,
1) All our frequency measurements are +/- 3db.
2) I'm not aware of any issues with the black acrylic wrap used on the SPL's.
Thanks,
Curt

I received a DD-18 about two weeks ago that I finally got to install (or tried to) last night. The problem is that the sub has a persistent noise that sounds almost like full range pink noise. It extends far above the crossover point and is not affected by the volume control. I've already contacted Velodyne Support but wanted to see if anyone here had ever experienced anything like it and if so what the problem was. I'm attaching a DIVX movie (VERY low bitrate, my apologies, I have a better version) that 'shows' what the sound is like. The differences are me cycling between presets one through six on the remote. It's hard to see (sorry about it being upside down) but if you can see the logo blinking that's me varying the volume with the remote. Totally disconnected except for power, the noise never changes in amplitude even when the sub is turned all the way down. I have tried different power cords, and different outlets, to no avail. The rest of the HT operates fine and components plugged into this outlet via an extension cord exhibit no odd behavior.

Note that otherwise it works... the video and EQ portion works, the sub outputs test tone to the mains however it does not respond to EQing and when the test tone is playing doesn't actually play the test tones. Thus the EQ curve flatlines until the point where the satellites cross over. The sub DOES play when connected to the system, however output is severely distorted. The noise level is inversely proportional to the output. If there's LFE activity, the noise will die down but will come right back once the LFE quiets down again. HELP!!!!

________________________

UPDATE : Velodyne support called and are sending out a new amp to replace the old. Since I'm going to have to take the amp out anyway I'm going to take it out tonight and check for loose/bad connections, breakage etc. I realize this may not be of interest to many of you however hopefully it will help someone who encounters the same problem.

...I would like to buy a Velodyne SPL 1200 2 to replace it to a CHT 12. What will I improve in? Is the Velodyne SPL really as superior as loud quality than the CHT? My room measures 5 meters for 5 meters. Only HT. Thanks.

http://img64.exs.cx/img64/8066/dsc015202wp.jpg
http://img64.exs.cx/img64/6003/dsc015210pn.jpg

http://img64.exs.cx/img64/4818/dsc015266bq.jpg

According to you, if I put the new sub in that corner would it give back well? The CHT creates some effect of I thunder. Maybe is Bass-Reflex?

Thanks again.

Hi,
Your CHT-12 is a bass reflex design. The CHT-12 and SPL-1200II will play close to the same maximum levels above 40hz. The SPL will Play louder below 40 hertz. The SPL is a smaller high-tech sealed enclosure design, therefore it requires much more power. It is also a more accurate (less distortion) subwoofer. Your room appears to be 2000 plus cubic feet (unless there are openings into other rooms) so either subwoofer should work well for your stated purpose. If you're looking for a lot more volume, you should consider the DLS-5000R. It is considerably larger than your CHT 12 and may not fit in the shown spot. If you currently have enough volume and want higher quality the SPL II is an excellent upgrade path.
Curt

Does anyone out there control thier DD series sub with a Philips Pronto TSU7000? Do the descrete codes work for you?

Re-post....

Hi there, I'm really enjoying this sub, but there's one little annoying aspect I'm hoping you may have a solution for.

I have it set to auto mode. There's an annoying little click when the sub switches itself on and off (i.e. in time with the little blue light). Is it possible to stop this? In low volume movies/music situations, it is noticeable.

Thanks and kind regards, JP
PS: this was sent in an email to service@velodyne.com on 2 April, but no reply to-date.

** I posted this in the main subwoofers forum, but would like some input from Velodyne on this **

I am size constrained on the subs I can use in my soon-to-be built wall cabinetry. The designer suggested dual Velodyne SPL-1200 II's. The primary listening/viewing area is ~2500 ft3, but opens to larger volume. I know the room volume calls for large sub, but the current design cannot accomodate anything larger than 12" small sub like the Velodyne.

Will dual 12" subs make a decent impact with this setup? I am planning on using them with either Salk HTS series or Revel M22's as LRC.

Thanks,

Phil

Phil,
The problem is, subwoofers do not play for a listening area. They by nature have to cover the whole area, openings and all. If you are limited to two small subwoofers then by all means go with a pair of SPL 1200's. I know of nothing better except a pair of DD-12's.
Curt

Jeff,

The slight pop noise that you hear is actually quite normal in MOST if not all Velodyne products when the unit transitions into standby. Due to your voltage and frequency down under the problem may be a bit exagerrated.
The best way to eliminate the problem altogether may be to lower the subwoofer volume setting slightly, and raise the subwoofer output level from your receiver or processor to maintian the same overall outout level.
using a Y-adaptor may also prove to help resolve the issue.

D. Santos
Velodyne Customer Service

Hi Curt,
I am looking for a subwoofer or two for my family room. The room is 22.25x14.5, ceilings start at 8 ft and rise to 13 ft. That room opens up to an equal sized kitchen (8 foot ceilings) along the long 24 wall. About 12 to 14 feet along the long side are open to the kichen. That equates to about 3200 sf in the family room and another 2500 sf in the kitchen. I would like to keep the total cost below $3k. BTW the subs are for HT. My speakers are full range dynaudio's and go fairly low for music.
Thanks for your help

Ken,
Very large area. My first choice would be a DD-18, or two HGS-15's. Both of those would be over budget. Since it's H/T you might look at two or more DLS-5000R's, a great "bang for the buck" subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks D. Saint and Pete Lewis (email from Velodyne) re slight pop noise. I'll give the suggestions a go.

Kind regards, JP

Originally posted by curt c
Ken,
Very large area. My first choice would be a DD-18, or two HGS-15's. Both of those would be over budget. Since it's H/T you might look at two or more DLS-5000R's, a great "bang for the buck" subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt,
I will give it some thought

Bruce:
On your web site, what happened to the "find the right product" section that helps you chose the right sub for your budget and calculates room size?

Regards,
Ian

Hi Curt,
I have the VRP-1200. It is great for what I need, but I have a problem with it not coming on when the volume on whatever source I'm using is low. I've tried splitting my sub cable to both inputs on the sub, but it still will shut off if a song has not much base or the volume is low. Then a new song will start with more bass and I'll have to turn the volume up on my receiver just to have the sub kick in. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Aaron

Originally posted by abeirnes
Hi Curt,
I have the VRP-1200. It is great for what I need, but I have a problem with it not coming on when the volume on whatever source I'm using is low. I've tried splitting my sub cable to both inputs on the sub, but it still will shut off if a song has not much base or the volume is low. Then a new song will start with more bass and I'll have to turn the volume up on my receiver just to have the sub kick in. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Aaron

Hey Guys, I hear this kind of complaint all the time about the VRP subs.
I have a VX10 and I never experience this problem even when I listen to
my TV a moderate volume levels. Once there is any real bass content the sub always turns on for me. It's possible that either the cross over is set too low or maybe the main speakers are very sensitive and require lower then normal volume settings. I have my line level (LFE out) set at 0 to +2 and my mains have an sensitivity rating of 88 decibels +/- 1db.

Ian;)

Leave it on!!!!!!! If you run your syetem at low levels, 85db peak, you can not expect the sub to turn on with almost no signal applied to the circuit that senses an audio signal input. Turn it on and off manually. that is what I do.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'turn it on'. It has an auto on-off switch. I have no way of turning the sub on besides sending it a signal to turn itself on automatically.

What kind of satellite speakers are you using and what is your cross over set at? I suggest you set the cross all the way up. Make sure your speakers are balanced properly when using your receiver's SET UP function. Use the test tone and preferably a spl meter to fine tune everything. You can then adjust the line level or LFE output from your receiver depending on your source to get just the right amount of bass you need.

Ian

Mine has a switch to select whether to use the auto on/off feature. When i play the system at lower levels, I set the auto switch to off.

"On your web site, what happened to the "find the right product" section that helps you chose the right sub for your budget and calculates room size?"

Regards,
Ian

Hi,
It is being updated and will be back soon.
Curt

Originally posted by abeirnes
Hi Curt,
"I have the VRP-1200. It is great for what I need, but I have a problem with it not coming on when the volume on whatever source I'm using is low. I've tried splitting my sub cable to both inputs on the sub, but it still will shut off if a song has not much base or the volume is low. Then a new song will start with more bass and I'll have to turn the volume up on my receiver just to have the sub kick in. Any help would be appreciated."

Thanks in advance
Aaron

Hi Aaron,
Please try the following;
1) Use the "Y" splitter into both inputs on the Velodyne.
2) Put the phase button out, to "0" position.
3) Raise the volume in your receiver for the subwoofer jack to three fourths of the way up. It's generally at half position.
This is the new Velodyne recommended hook-up procedure for the VX/VRP subwoofers. This should take care of the problem. You're right, your Velodyne does not have a auto/switch.
Thanks,
Curt

Originally posted by curt c
Hi Aaron,
Please try the following;
1) Use the "Y" splitter into both inputs on the Velodyne.
2) Put the phase button out, to "0" position.
3) Raise the volume in your receiver for the subwoofer jack to three forths of the way up. It's generally at half position.
This is the new Velodyne recommended hook-up procedure for the VX/VRP subwoofers. This should take care of the problem. You're right, your Velodyne does not have a auto/switch.
Thanks,
Curt


Just to clarify what Curt told me. If you adjust the line level output from the receiver to the sub properly you should have your gain control set at 9 or 10 o'clock. I have never set mine past 12 even when I'm listening to my TV. You may want to experiment with the phase control to see which setting works best with your set up. I had to set mine to 180 to get the best results to match my system. I've had this sub for nearly two years and with the proper set up it has always performed perfectly. Good luck and enjoy.

Ian ;)

Hi guys..

I'm about to buy a Velodyne sub for my stereo setup (surround to be), and I would like your advice whether I should go for two SPL-1200 Series II subs (one under/beside each speaker) or one DD-12 or DD-10 sub?

My setup is Vienna Acoustics "Haydn" Book shelf speakers (Freq res.: 42Hz-20kHz), Audia Flight ONE amp. My room is 4x5m by the moment, but I'm about to move into a 3,5x3,5m room :(
I listen to a LOT of music and it's a great music reproduction I require, the movie sound would be of secondary importance...exact breathtaking bass, no boomy are the keywords...

Maybe I should go for the two SPL-1200 and the EQ'box Velodyne are about to put on the market?

What would the pros and cons be by choosing either 2xSPL-1200 or 1xDD-12/DD-10?

Would everything else besides the DD-10 be a killer for my little room, so that I should stick with the DD-10?

So guys, what do you think would be the best solution for me and why?

Thank you!

Kind regards
Dennis Thøgersen aka. Kajkagen
Denmark

Kajkagen,

I have to jump in here. You sound like me in prescribing how you prefer your low end response. I have always found that purchasing 1 very good subwoofer sounds far better than multiple units. In my own system which has 2 VMPS Supertowers a VMPS center and Electrovoice rears I use 1 F-1800 II. I rarely use the center speaker because multiple sources create interference which to my ear means lack of reality. These speakers I use all have 15" low end drivers and go down to 30-40Hz within a couple of percent THD. That is good. Add a subwoofer like the Velodyne with its gorgeous control of the extreme low end and you get close to reality. It really works when you feel the contrabasses or the bass drum being struck gently. When an army marches in the distance in a movie and you feel the ground, the subwoofer is working. Add another sub and it kills the effect. You wind up listening to a very boomy response. Why???? Because of the standing waves and interaction with each other and the room walls.

In your small room you will always be in the "near field". This means that what you will be listening to will be the speakers not the room. Less is better. Keep the number of sources down, buy the best, and enjoy. Good Luck. Again,......Buy a Velodyne, the best you can afford. Place it where it generates the fewest standing waves and keep the volume low.

Hi,
Art correctly points out the issues of multiple sources in a small room. I would use a single DD-12 in your system. IMHO the best small subwoofer in the world.
Thanks,
Curt

Originally posted by curt c
Hi,
Art correctly points out the issues of multiple sources in a small room. I would use a single DD-12 in your system. IMHO the best small subwoofer in the world.
Thanks,
Curt

You aren't kidding. My dealer loaned me a DD-12 (the '18 did indeed have a bad driver and has to go back). Upon hearing it in the room I (for a minute) was seriously considering keeping the '12 and letting 'em have the '18 back!

Hi guys...

Thank you for the fast replies. I guess I want to go for the DD...

Do you think that the DD-12 would be too big for my small room, so that I should go for the DD-10?
Which is better for my room...the DD-10 or the DD-12 and why?

If any of you have got the DD-10 I would like to have some reviews of this sub (and the size of the room youre using it in).

Thank you

Kind regards
Dennis Thøgersen
Denmark

Hi Guys,

I room is 20' x 20' x 8'. I am debating between the DD-10 and the DD-12. I play music and movies at around -25dB from reference. Sometimes I push the volume up to -15dB on a movie soundtrack. Any thoughts?

Greg

Hi,
Go with the DD-12 or DD-15, not the DD-10. Remember if there are openings to other rooms, they become part of the displacement.
Curt

If there are no openings in the room and in that large a room, you need the biggest sub you can afford. What "reference Level" are you refering to? 75 SPL? i don't think so. Bigger is better and in your case cranking the sucker up will make the hairs on your legs stand up.

On another matter. How about we all say a prayer for Curt. i believe his date with the Medicos is about here. GOOD LUCK CURT!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Art.
Actually it was last Thursday. I'm recovering and doing fine.
Thanks again,
Curt

Glad to hear it Curt. With today's medical practices, you are plobably home already or convalescing somwewhere other than the Hospital. Keep up the fight, the world needs guys who know how to distinguish between a horn loaded and a bass reflex speaker. You are one of those. Stay strong.

Originally posted by MrHifi
If there are no openings in the room and in that large a room, you need the biggest sub you can afford. What "reference Level" are you refering to? 75 SPL? i don't think so. Bigger is better and in your case cranking the sucker up will make the hairs on your legs stand up.

On another matter. How about we all say a prayer for Curt. i believe his date with the Medicos is about here. GOOD LUCK CURT!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys. The reference I am referring to is calibrating with Avia at 85 or VE at 75 and listening at -15 to -25 below that. So you think even at those levels the DD-10 would get swallowed up in that size room?

Greg

When you set up the system using the AVIA disk or the VE disk the 85dB SPL and 75 dB SPL are the levels one might expect to listen at when the source devices are set to output at levels of .775 V from their line level outputs. Input devices vary widely so trying to guess what level to use to set the system can be problematic. I've set up a few dozen homes in my life and when I know the purchaser has discrimminating tastes or in my own home system, I set the level produced by the AVIA or VE discs as low as I can without getting near the noise floor. In an apartment building 60-70db SPL is about as low as you will be able to go because of AC and building hum. Homes in the country can be adjusted at 50 dB. Setting things up this way takes into account room resonances and sound and frequency reenforcement occurring because of the room's dimensions. It is important to set the system up the way you intend to listen to it. If you set up at 85dB and listen at 50-65 dB SPL , you will find that you are bass shy. The DD-10 would not be "swallowed up" to quote you but on those days when you want to impress the honey or blow your socks off listening to the 1812 Overture, you will wish you had spent the few extra bucks. I have never regretted my purchase of an 18" subwoofer that has clean output to 17Hz. Buy the biggest you can afford, then sit back for the next 20 years and know you bought the best and made the right choice. One more thing. While all the equalizers and visual readouts and multiple adjustments are fun to play with, what you really want is clean low end reproduction from your investment. Spend the money on the bigger driver and cabinet and forego all the equalizers if money is important. All you need to set the system up is a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Meter and a variable audio frequency source.

Thanks Art,

Your setup procedure makes perfect sense to me. I had always thought it made more sense to set up the sub at a normal listening level, but everyone seems to recommend setting it up at reference level and just turning down the volume to listen.

Not to go too far off topic, but I own the original VE (which I always thought had an accurate sub signal vs the new DVE) as well as Avia. When I set up my sub with VE to equal the other speakers, a get different results with Avia. With Avia, my left front reading is the same as VE, but my center reading puts my sub at 2 db's too weak, and my right front reading puts my sub at 4-5 db's too weak. How is one to know what is right?

Thanks
Greg

Message for "Curt C."
Please read the following thread reguarding F-1200
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=539098
Thanks,
Gary

There is a 3dB error in the VE rear channels on the laser disc. The disc is 3dB too high so you need to increase the rears by 3dB if you use it. The DVD is fine, Have you dhecked whether you have the C weighting in your meter? Check to see if there is some leakage from the mains to the sub. I've used both and get the same readings exactly. You can not move the mike.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jedi29
[B]Message for "Curt C."
"Please read the following thread reguarding F-1200"

Hi Gary,
Please call me direct at; 480-595-7141, 8AM-5PM (PDT), and I'll be happy to advise you.
Curt

Need sub recommendation

Just finishing a dedicated HT in my basement 12.3'w x 20.5' l x 9'h = 2300 cu ft. F/L/Rt 2' x 4' walls have 4" batts, Right wall 2" batts over concrete.
Floor is concrete with dense carpet and rear of the room has 15" raised platform 6' x 9' with R30 batts.

Speakers are Energy floorstanding C-7 (3 ea 5.25") and Energy center, Lwall, Rwall and 2 on rear wall.

Considering SPL 1000 or 1200 (maximum budget) or less expensive if not HUGE in size. We will use for 90% movies and rest music. Also at our ages we are not into boom and like what Velo offers.

My room is 12.5 x 15 x 8.
Similar walls but a second story room over 2 x 10 joists.
Am auditioning the Seismic 12 (so far, so good).

Brought the SPL-1200II home today. Not set up yet but will let you know how it goes.

A question for the Veldyne guys:

I was under the impression the SPL II series was built in the US.

The outer box on this baby clearly says "Made in China".

What's the deal??

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mooney
[B]Need sub recommendation.
"Considering SPL 1000 or 1200 (maximum budget) or less expensive if not HUGE in size. We will use for 90% movies and rest music. Also at our ages we are not into boom and like what Velo offers."

Hi,
Both the SPL-1000II and 1200II will work well in your room size. Given most of your listening is H/T, I would go with the larger SPL-1200II for the additional reserve and power in the lower frequencies.
Thanks,
Curt

*** Moved from its own thread ***

Hi,
We are pleased to announce general availability of Digital Drive software version 2.0. This software is compatible with all current Digital Drive subwoofers, and the upgrade is free of charge. The new version can be downloaded at:

http://www.velodyne.com/support/digital_drive

This new version features two different forms of auto-EQ, individualized EQ settings per preset, better navigation, default preset select, defeatable low-pass crossover and a host of other features. You can read about the new features by viewing the data sheet at the above link.

You’ll need a windows PC with an RS232 serial port and a male-to-female RS232 9-pin “mouse extension” serial cable to perform the upgrade, available at any computer store or you can obtain one from Velodyne by emailing techhelp@velodyne.com. If you only have USB ports on your PC, you can obtain a USB to RS232 serial adapter at most computer stores.

Note that version 2.0 restores defaults if upgrading from an older version, so note your settings before upgrading.

I hope you find the new version useful.

Thanks and Regards,
Bruce

"I hope you find the new version useful."


Talk about understatement. :)

Awesome Bruce! Many of us have been looking forward to this day. Congrats on the release of 2.0 and thank you for continuing to support your products. This will be a fun project for today :-)

Pete

Thankyou :D

And i have to add, that velodyne, from all the companies i have delt with, have the best customer support/feedback etc. that i have seen :)
I haven't yet had any problems however, but that again shows that the products are just as good as the support :)

cheers
KJ

Well I bought a SPL1000II.

Thanks for the inputs.

Bruce,

Thank you for the long anticipated release of Digital Drive software version 2.0! It certainly advances the state-of-th-art!

I upgraded my dual DD-15's and read the manual last night. The manual has been almost completely re-written from the original. Concepts and specific settings instructions are much easier to understand.
I especially appreciate the Light blink schemes!

There may be a typo on Page 20 of the Manual in the phrase "at approximately 86 db (or a comfortable listening level)." The graph depicted illustrates a line at roughly 76 db, therefore shouldn't the text state "at approximately 76 db" ?

Thank you!

Chris Cargen

Originally posted by cargen
Bruce,

There may be a typo on Page 20 of the Manual in the phrase "at approximately 86 db (or a comfortable listening level)." The graph depicted illustrates a line at roughly 76 db, therefore shouldn't the text state "at approximately 76 db" ?

Thank you!

Chris Cargen

Good catch Chris! As we say in the biz - "D'oh!" :(

Bruce

Originally posted by Krazykaj
Thankyou :D

And i have to add, that velodyne, from all the companies i have delt with, have the best customer support/feedback etc. that i have seen :)
I haven't yet had any problems however, but that again shows that the products are just as good as the support :)

cheers
KJ

Thanks Kaj - those are very kind words, and they mean a lot to all of us. It makes all the fun we have that much more fun! :D

Bruce

Question about "Connecting More Than One Subwoofer" on Page 10 of the Digital Drive Software Version 2.0 Manual.

It states "If you are connecting more than one DD subwoofer to your system, you will connect them together in a "daisy-chain". Did you mean to say " . . . more than one DD Subwoofer 'PER CHANNEL' to your system, . . . "?

I have two DD-15's operating in STEREO, with a line out from my Pre/Pro LEFT Subwoofer Output and a line out from my Pre/Pro RIGHT Subwoofer Output. Presently, my two DD-15's are connected together between their RS-232 ports with ONLY a Mouse Extension serial cable.

The new manual confuses me. Are you saying that in my STEREO configuration, I should also connect my dual DD-15's to each other with "an RCA jack from the THRU RCA jacks of the 'primary' to the input jacks of the 'slave' sub" ??? Or is this true only when a DD-15 owner's Pre/Pro offers only a single subwoofer Output? [My Pre/Pro is an Anthem Statement D1].

Please clarify and instruct me.

Thanks,

Chris Cargen

Hi Bruce!
First of all a big THANK YOU. Now the question I have is, if you bypass the crossover in the sub then do the EQ points stay at default positions or do they move below crossover point during AutoEQ? If not then is there a way to bring all EQ positions below the crossover point & do AutoEQ?
Thanks.

Originally posted by cargen
"Please clarify and instruct me."
Thanks,
Chris Cargen


Chris,
For stereo subs you have your DD's hooked up correctly.
Curt

Originally posted by vinodk
Hi Bruce!
First of all a big THANK YOU. Now the question I have is, if you bypass the crossover in the sub then do the EQ points stay at default positions or do they move below crossover point during AutoEQ? If not then is there a way to bring all EQ positions below the crossover point & do AutoEQ?
Thanks.

Hi Vonod,
The EQs always revert to the third octave frequencies for both auto-EQ and self-EQ. Neither auto-EQ not self-EQ will do any parametric (i.e. frequency changes) at all, regardless of the crossover being bypassed or not. The default frequencies are 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 80, and 100 Hz.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Curt and Bruce,

Would one of you mind touching on the goal of Auto EQ. Does the auto setup try to automatically adjust for the flatest response possible.

How close to a "flat" line have your guys seen in real world rooms using the auto system?

Thanks.

-Brian

Brian,
Yes the "auto eq" automatically adjusts for flattest response. In my own setup I am able to achieve +/-3db in the "auto eq" mode. "Manual Eq" is more flexible and will allow the most accurate (flattest) equalization.
Curt

Originally posted by curt c

For stereo subs you have your DD's hooked up correctly.
Curt [/B]

Curt,

Thanks for your fast answer.

Chris Cargen

Request for Discreet Remote Codes for the URC Home Theater Master MX-3000

As part of the DD software release 1.6 Velodyne provided discreet codes to Crestron and for Pronto users via a .ccf file in the Pronto Component Configuration File on remotecentral.com

The URC Home Theater Master MX-3000 RF/IR color touch screen remote control is rapidly gaining market share and is arguably even more state-of-the-art than the Pronto.

The Universal Browser of the MX-3000 enables import of Learned IR codes from a .ccf file, but not generated RC5, Database or generated NEC codes.

Twice, I have filled out the Contact Form on the Velodyne web site requesting that the DD series discreet codes be sent to URC so they can be made available to MX-3000 owners via the Pre-Programmed IR Database that URC provides via periodic “Live Updates” to the MX-3000 Editor software. Currently, Velodyne is conspicuous by its absence in the database. I’ve been able to “learn” most of the codes, but not discreet “Off”.

Can you please provide the DD discreet codes to URC directly?

URC can be contacted by Velodyne via <http://www.universalremote.com/products/index.php?item=mx3000>

Thank you for the outstanding support you provide.

Chris Cargen

I previously posted that my family room size is 3400cf plus it opens to the kitchen on one side adding another 2400cf. I guess that means I have almost 6000cf to energize even though our listening and viewing area is only 1800cf. I am running Dynaudio's 3.3's up front and am satisfied with it's low end for music so my primary concern is bass reinforcement for HT. That's not to say I wouldn't appreciate listening to music going an extra octave lower.

Bruce recommended 1 DD-18 or 2 HGS-15's.


I have a few questions.


1.
I have lots of equipment in the front so squeezing a large sub into the front corner is going to conflict with on of my mains and increase the amount of clutter in the room. Ascetically it would prefer to place a sub in one of the rear corners of the room which is about 7 feet away from the listening position. This is closer than the front corner at 12 feet away. Is this acceptable or is this going to be too much of a compromise.

2.
Also in the interest of pleasing my wife I would like as small a sub as possible. The DD-15 is just about perfect for me as I had two Atlantic Technology 352 subs (one front and one in the rear) which are just about the same size as a DD-15. Two DD-15 would be great but I just don't have the budget for them so I could only get one.

I could move up to the DD-18 but I am not thrilled with the extra size or the additional cost. Do you think that there is a big enough difference to move up to the larger sub. Also having just sold off the pair of 352's (12"), I would expect my new subs to significantly outperfom them.

Ken,
Based on the displacement, the DD-18 is the proper recommendation. An eighteen can do almost as well as a pair of fifteens. The rear corner may work fine as long as there are no room openings near that corner. I would suggest if possible, try a DD-15 and see what you think. Don't expect a single fifteen to outperform two twelves, as far as output (loudness) goes.
Curt

Ken,

I started with Velodyne years ago with a 12" servo. No matter where I put it, I could hear phase cancelation dropouts with some bass notes. With some content, could turn off the sub and there was an improvement. This only occured with specific music content. I then got another of the same sub on clearance with a new model transistion. I put one sub right beside each main and had them in stereo mode. This was a great improvement.

Today I have a pair of DD-15s, in Cherry which really looks great. I still think that two subs in stereo mode, beside and aligned to the main speakers is the best solution of all. There is no way to otherwise (with a single sub in mono) not have some cancellation effects for the frequecny range where the mains and subs overlap. Two subs in mono mode similarily positioned with the mains would probably also create some unwanted effects. For main speakers of the right size, the DD subs might make very good speaker stands, but stabilty issues and tweeter dopler distortion would have to be considered.

Cancellation effects of the type described above which are stereo music content dependant will not show up in test sweeps or other calibration methods.

Not everyone is going to agree with the above statements. Cost issues are an other matter as well. Certainly in a store, they are not going to tell you that you need to purchase a pair and risk loosing the sale.

Two DD15's would also move more air than a DD18, and you would have 2500 watts of peak amp power instead of 1250.

<Cancellation effects of the type described above which are stereo music content dependant will not show up in test sweeps or other calibration methods.>

If it does not show up in steady state tests or sweeps, it does not exist. Were talking physics here not black magic.

While two drivers will always add SPL, cancelletion at selected frequencies will occur no matter what you do. In order to minmize cancelletion from my two rear speakers with 15" woofers and 2 front speakers with 15", 2 10", 1 12", and 1 15" passive radiator in each, I position the subwoofer over 20 feet away from the main speakers. When a bomb goes off, it has a definitive effect on the listener. Sure some cancellation occurs but with a space 75 ft long and 20 ft. wide, fundamental reinforcement occurs in the 17 to 25 Hz range and that is why you add a subwoofer. I'm sorry but multiple subs detract from the overall experience unless the space is extremely large and requires the extra air movement to achieve SPL's of 120 dB.

I would tend to agree. PLUS, trying to ideally situate 2 subs is a herculean task to say the least. 2 subs placed near their respective mains will inevitably lead to the same sort of cancellation you're trying to alleviate with a single sub in the first place.

Ran

Just flashed my DD-18 from v1.5 to v2.0 firmware using a USB-to-Serial cable without any problems (liked the blinking led thing). Did not have time to recalibrate, but I have a question.
Yesterday I also rewrote my Pronto Device Page for the DD-18 using the .ccf file from RemoteCentral.com. The discrete code for "off" does not work. I thought I read somewhere that this .ccf file was made by Velodyne for v1.6. Is this a v2.0 issue or was the "discrete off" code also not working in v1.6 ?

Originally posted by BenBau
Just flashed my DD-18 from v1.5 to v2.0 firmware using a USB-to-Serial cable without any problems (liked the blinking led thing). Did not have time to recalibrate, but I have a question.
Yesterday I also rewrote my Pronto Device Page for the DD-18 using the .ccf file from RemoteCentral.com. The discrete code for "off" does not work. I thought I read somewhere that this .ccf file was made by Velodyne for v1.6. Is this a v2.0 issue or was the "discrete off" code also not working in v1.6 ?

Hi Ben,
The codes are the same between 1.6 and 2.0. There is a new pronto out there that we need to record a new .ccf file for, because some of the discreet codes don't work on some of the newer Prontos. Watch this space.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

I have a TSU7000, about 3 months old and bought in the US. Only the "discrete off" does not work, everything else works fine.

PS. thanks for the swift reply....

I currently own a DD-18.

Which non "DD" series sub would come the closest in performance to a DD-18? I want to add a second sub for more output however I don't need another EQ since I already have one in the DD-18.

-Brian

Hi Brian!
Thanks for asking the question. I am also interested in adding a second non DD sub & equalizing both using EQ in DD-15 by connecting both subs to the prepro via Y cable. I currently have a UFW-10 lying idle but I am not sure if both the subs need to be from the same manufacturer.

Dave and Curt,

Thanks for giving my F1800R II a new lease on life. Everything works perfectly. Plugged it in and after a couple of oscillations, it settled down and is working perfectly. I imagine it is the servo and amp zeroing out. I m so pleased. It is in better shape now than when I bought it in the '90's.

I have a question which I thought I knew the answer to but after reading through many comments in here, I thought I should ask you. I connect to my Pre/Pro via a single coaxial cable. Is there any advantage to be realized by connecting to both inputs on the speaker. I envision two voice coils in the speaker with two amps but I see only one amp on the board. Years ago I decided that one coax from the LFE was enough. Should I run another line and/or use a Y connector so that both inputs will have signal? Sorry for the question but there is an element of doubt left after enjoying my newly reconditioned speaker.

DD Series owners:
What kind of improvement are you seeing before and after an AutoEQ?
+/- what db?
I started at +/-10db from flat with the D18 and didn't see much improvement after AutoEQ. Obviously my room has problems.
What kind of improvement is everyone else seeing?
TIA

Hi Art,
I recommend using a "Y" splitter into both inputs. The inputs are summed and the additional input provides more input signal so the amp is not working as hard. We don't use a dual voice coil, rather a tandem design in a push/pull configuration.
Curt

Thanks Curt. appreciate the prompt response.

Originally posted by Bghead8che
I currently own a DD-18.

Which non "DD" series sub would come the closest in performance to a DD-18? I want to add a second sub for more output however I don't need another EQ since I already have one in the DD-18.

-Brian

Hi Brian,
The only eighteen we make is the DD-18. The closest (non DD) in performance would be the HGS-15X.
Curt

With one sub in mono, you can and will get some cancelation effects with an uncalibrated sub. With a sub caibrated to the room etc, the mono sub will create some cancelation effects with the different content of stereo music channels. That will not go away.

Your single sub calibration compensated for a mono sub acting with the same content at each speaker. The calibration will be correct when the music is the same from each speaker. The results will not be what you think they are with some stereo content.

As for concerns with positioning, you put them beside or under the mains. This is just like the alignment issues of the midrange and woofer or midrange and tweeter in the main speakers. The more the two drivers are separated, the more interference patterns will be generated.

Again, any adverse cancellation effects will be limited to the crossover band where the mains and the subs overlap.

I have tried things both ways, and I think the results and physics are on my side.

Originally posted by BenBau
I have a TSU7000, about 3 months old and bought in the US. Only the "discrete off" does not work, everything else works fine.

PS. thanks for the swift reply....


Hey BenBau, I sent you a PM.

If i wanted to add a second sub to my DD18, not for output, but just to improve a smoother overall frequency response, is there any benefit to getting a 2nd 18 instead of a 15 or 12? Given my output is fine now i just want to try and flatten out the curve a little bit dues to room modes.

John

Any update on the SMS-1?

Originally posted by Expletive
If i wanted to add a second sub to my DD18, not for output, but just to improve a smoother overall frequency response, is there any benefit to getting a 2nd 18 instead of a 15 or 12? Given my output is fine now i just want to try and flatten out the curve a little bit dues to room modes.

John

Hi John,
Based on my experience, it's best to go with the same size and brand when adding a second subwoofer.
Curt

Originally posted by curt c
Hi John,
Based on my experience, it's best to go with the same size and brand when adding a second subwoofer.
Curt

I was afraid you were going to say that ( so was my wife). :)

My current DD18 is in the front left corner, do you have a sense of what the best place may be for a 2nd?

Just wondering if i can get a sense of where it might sound best to determine if its even feasible before i ship one over here to find out the only place it really works is someplace where it cant go...

Thanks.

John

Hi,
Certainly the front right corner comes to mind. Since you're trying for smoother response there's no way to tell without trying different locations. You might want to call me to talk over different possibilities.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I have a F-1200R that is crossed over @ 60Hz and connected via line level front outputs from my Lex MC-12V4. The fronts are mirage FRx-9s. The fronts are crossed @ 60Hz in the Lexicon. Room Eq is via the Lex. I also have a HGS-15 series II that is set up as a mono sub from the Lex @ 60Hz setting with input into the Left Channel and as well as an LFE sub with an input into the Right Channel.

The F-1200 is strictly used not as a dedicated sub but to augment the SQ of the mirages around the 60Hz range as it drops off to the mono sub. I hope this makes sense.

The crossover is set to OUT on the HGS-15 and the F-1200 crossover setting is set to 60Hz.

Both subs are stacked to the right of the RPTV close to one corner but not in the corner.

Any suggestions on this current set up and if it makes any sense to replace the subs with matching subs like the DD-15 and run them as stereo subs. It sounds great but would like any suggestions to squeeze out more out of the system.

Comments welcome and appreciated.

Hi Art,
I recommend using a "Y" splitter into both inputs. The inputs are summed and the additional input provides more input signal so the amp is not working as hard. We don't use a dual voice coil, rather a tandem design in a push/pull configuration.
Curt

Hi Curt.

Should I use a "Y" splitter also on my DD-15?
Currently, it's connected with a single rca to one of the inputs (the right input, if remember).

Thank you. Aurelio

If i wanted to add a second sub to my DD18, not for output, but just to improve a smoother overall frequency response, is there any benefit to getting a 2nd 18 instead of a 15 or 12? Given my output is fine now i just want to try and flatten out the curve a little bit dues to room modes.

John

I understand that the EQ software is not a cure all, but your post has me a little concerned. I was going to purchase either a DD-12 or DD-15. I am curious how bad your response is that is making you want a second sub for smoothing out your response.

Thanks
Greg

Hi Curt.

Should I use a "Y" splitter also on my DD-15?
Currently, it's connected with a single rca to one of the inputs (the right input, if remember).

Thank you. Aurelio

Hi,
The input sensitivity on the DD series is different so "Y" splitters are usually not necessary.
Curt

Should the "Y" splitter be used with the SPL series?

Sorry if this has been covered before....this a very long thread :)

Hi,
Yes you should use a "Y" into both inputs on the SPL series.
Curt

Curt,

The use of a Y splitter on my F1800R II resulted in higher output from the sub with the same input level at the input to the Y splitter. Gain apears to have increased over 3 to 4dB SPL. Sounds kind of high but that is what the Radio Shack meter said. That extra efficiency allowed me to turn down the Speaker's level control. BTW, an added and unexpected benefit of David's repairs and your Y advice is that now the Sub discrimminates the presence of a signal much better and turns on at the appropriate time. I no longer have to leave it on continuously. Thanks again for the great help. Velodyne is you.

Art,
The 3-4db increase is what we measured also.
Curt

I have several questions if someone with knowledge about the Velodyne F-1800XR. I believe Velodyne made this model for OneCALL only. I perchased it back in 1999 or 2000 I believe. The info I remember is that it had the old ULD's 18inch woofer with the F-1500 electronics, amp. I was wondering if anyone had the specs on the woofer anywhere. Also I can't seem to find any reviews on it anywhere also, this may be due to it only being made for OneCall. Any information whould be appreciated.

Hi,
The info you present on the F-1800XR is correct and it was never reviewed. I believe we rated it 18-120hz. The power was 250 watts. It was a F-1500R on steroids. The enclosure was considerably smaller than the previous ULD-18.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
The info you present on the F-1800XR is correct and it was never reviewed. I believe we rated it 18-120hz. The enclosure was smaller than the previous ULD-18.
Thanks,
Curt


Wow, thanks for the fast responce Curt.

I have another question if you have time. I looking to add another sub to my F-1800 XR what do you think whould complement it? I realy like the DD-18 but It's out the question atm because my wife would Kill me if i spent $4,000 on a sub. As much as I have come to love Velodyne, I'm considering geting a HSU VTF-3 because of best bang for my buck factor. Does Velodyne have anything in the HSU price range that performs as well or better? I know Velodyne higher end subs will blow the HSU away but I just can't aford it atm. If not does Velodyne planing on producing a sub that will offer HSU performace near the HSU price range? Thanks for any info in advance, I love Velodyne but it's seems you have to be in the Rich category to aford their better subs.

Hi,
You must check out the new DLS-5000R. Big 15" driver, powerful class D amplifier and DSP funtionality all with a remote control. It's (way) at the head of the class in the "bang for the buck" catagory. You'll be amazed.
Curt

Hi,
You must check out the new DLS-5000R. Big 15" driver, powerful class D amplifier and DSP funtionality all with a remote control. It's (way) at the head of the class in the "bang for the buck" catagory. You'll be amazed.
Curt


Thanks for the responce again. Is there any reviews out about it on the web yet, and where can i locate these reviews?

Art,
There never was a F-1800R as far as we are concerned. They were all F-1800R II's. Some of the amps may not have had the II designation. I also owned all of the oldies you mention plus a ton more. Good Listening!
Thanks,
Curt

Just a note ART Velodyne did produce a limit quantity F-1800XR for OneCAll, this is where the confusion over F-1800R might of come from.

Hi Curt,
Looks like my sub has seen better days ( ref: F1200 ), any idea when the new SPL series will be avalible ?
Many thanks for everything :)
Gary

[QUOTE]Originally posted by inky blacks
[B]PS

"As Velodyne claims a THD figure of less than 1% or even less than .5% on some of its subwoofers, I assume this means that the cone material you use, Kevlar reinforced paper, is so stiff that any improvements in stiffness would not yield improvements in distortion levels more than a fraction of 1% THD."

Hi,
You want a rigid, low mass piston. I feel the kevlar composite cone we are using is the best available choice.
Curt


Whouldn't metal be even more rigid than Kevlar?

<Cancellation effects of the type described above which are stereo music content dependant will not show up in test sweeps or other calibration methods.>

If it does not show up in steady state tests or sweeps, it does not exist. Were talking physics here not black magic.

While two drivers will always add SPL, cancelletion at selected frequencies will occur no matter what you do. In order to minmize cancelletion from my two rear speakers with 15" woofers and 2 front speakers with 15", 2 10", 1 12", and 1 15" passive radiator in each, I position the subwoofer over 20 feet away from the main speakers. When a bomb goes off, it has a definitive effect on the listener. Sure some cancellation occurs but with a space 75 ft long and 20 ft. wide, fundamental reinforcement occurs in the 17 to 25 Hz range and that is why you add a subwoofer. I'm sorry but multiple subs detract from the overall experience unless the space is extremely large and requires the extra air movement to achieve SPL's of 120 dB.

SO when I read about referance systems having a Sub for each channel of DD, DTS their just wasting the subs because of the cancelations?

Mine is indeed the F1800RII as Curt pointed out. It was my mistake. BTW, if you haven't read the whole thread yet, Curt and Dave did a great job of repairing my late '90's F1800RII and actually got it working beter than it did originally.

In answer to your second note to me,

Cancellations occur at discrete frequencies and are dependent on room boundaries. In free air, no walls or outside, placing a multiplicity of low frequency drivers next to each other and hooking them up in phase should yield a 3dB increase in SPL. In a small room, placing subs at each of the left and right front and rear speakers can be counterproductive. If the woofers are set apart from each other facing towards each other in-phase resonant frequencies may be canceled but then some room resonances created by each woofer may be augmented at the same time. In fact in any setup with boundary walls, resonances and cancellation play a big part in how the "system" sounds. That is why there is a "phase" switch in.the rear of the cabinet of most subwoofers. You adjust the switch for the maximum perceived loudness. If you use a sound pressure meter in a bounded space, cetain frequencies may show levels 10 to 15 dB different from frequencies less than one node away from the dominant tone. To answer your question as directly and politically as I can, considering after all that Velodyne does need to sell as many subs as possible, my experience setting up systems has shown that in a Dolby Digital 5.1 system, 1 subwoofer for the LFE channel and large, identical speakers in all the other channels, placed in the manner described by Dolby Laboratories, will reproduce the "soundstage" accurately and with as little distortion as possible. I find this to be true for rooms 30 ft. x 20 ft and 8 ft. high and smaller. Whether you use small or large speakers at the individual locations is a mater of individual need and preference. In those cases where the speakers can not cover the full spectrum at the desired SPL without significant distortion, a subwoofer would probably be desireable at those locations. Replicating frequencies in the low or high range merely adds distortion from phase anomalies. Your ear hates those. The distortion from multiple speakers playing the same thing gets worse the smaller the room or if you are in the "near field" of the drivers.

So, where does that leave us... Buy the biggest and usually the costlest speakers you can afford for each position. Buy a really good sub for the LFE channel. If you need low frequency coverage at other positions, use bass management to redirect to the LFE sub or add subwoofers if you want a higher SPL. No matter what you decide to do 2 points are incontravertible: Buy a Velodyne sub because they sound better and buy the best single sub you can afford at the time.

well-stated, art!

Mine is indeed the F1800RII as Curt pointed out. It was my mistake. BTW, if you haven't read the whole thread yet, Curt and Dave did a great job of repairing my late '90's F1800RII and actually got it working beter than it did originally.

In answer to your second note to me,

Cancellations occur at discrete frequencies and are dependent on room boundaries. In free air, no walls or outside, placing a multiplicity of low frequency drivers next to each other and hooking them up in phase should yield a 3dB increase in SPL. In a small room, placing subs at each of the left and right front and rear speakers can be counterproductive. If the woofers are set apart from each other facing towards each other in-phase resonant frequencies may be canceled but then some room resonances created by each woofer may be augmented at the same time. In fact in any setup with boundary walls, resonances and cancellation play a big part in how the "system" sounds. That is why there is a "phase" switch in.the rear of the cabinet of most subwoofers. You adjust the switch for the maximum perceived loudness. If you use a sound pressure meter in a bounded space, cetain frequencies may show levels 10 to 15 dB different from frequencies less than one node away from the dominant tone. To answer your question as directly and politically as I can, considering after all that Velodyne does need to sell as many subs as possible, my experience setting up systems has shown that in a Dolby Digital 5.1 system, 1 subwoofer for the LFE channel and large, identical speakers in all the other channels, placed in the manner described by Dolby Laboratories, will reproduce the "soundstage" accurately and with as little distortion as possible. I find this to be true for rooms 30 ft. x 20 ft and 8 ft. high and smaller. Whether you use small or large speakers at the individual locations is a mater of individual need and preference. In those cases where the speakers can not cover the full spectrum at the desired SPL without significant distortion, a subwoofer would probably be desireable at those locations. Replicating frequencies in the low or high range merely adds distortion from phase anomalies. Your ear hates those. The distortion from multiple speakers playing the same thing gets worse the smaller the room or if you are in the "near field" of the drivers.

So, where does that leave us... Buy the biggest and usually the costlest speakers you can afford for each position. Buy a really good sub for the LFE channel. If you need low frequency coverage at other positions, use bass management to redirect to the LFE sub or add subwoofers if you want a higher SPL. No matter what you decide to do 2 points are incontravertible: Buy a Velodyne sub because they sound better and buy the best single sub you can afford at the time.

Ok thanks for the advice and information.

My problem is this. I have a Velodyne F-1800XR, its pays low and deep fine, and pretty loud as well. All my speakers are small so anything above 80Hz will not be played by them. When playing my DTS, DD movie I can always locate my F-1800XR. I know they say low bass is no- directionable, but I can sense direction unless its realy low. I think if its 40- I cant tell where its coming from, but if its 40+ I can. I'm considering geting another Sub to equal out the Bass so I can't tell where its coming from. I love to get the DD-18 but like I stated earlyer post $4,500 is just to much for me, meaning I have $4,500 but my wife would divorce me if I spent that on a sub. So I'm limited to about $800 or so. So I won't be able to get a servo-controlled subwoofer. So my choices are HSU VTF-3, SVS, or Velodyne 5000 all have no servo and will have distorotion in the 3% to 9% range I think. HSU has got wonderfull reviews from near ever stereo, hometheater magazine as well as the SVS. I havent seen any reviews on the Velodyne 5000, so I realy don't know how it performs. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi Curt,
Looks like my sub has seen better days ( ref: F1200 ), any idea when the new SPL series will be avalible ?
Many thanks for everything :)
Gary

Hi,
The new SPL-R series will be available in June.
Curt

Hi Velodyne staff,
I am in the market for a velodyne sub, and I pretty much have my mind set on the HGS series. I just demoed the HGS-15X the other day, and I was thoroughly impressed. My question is: what is the difference between the different generations? I've tried comparing the literature available on the velodyne's website, and I can't figure out with the differences are. Can you please put down a short, quick list of the differences between HGS I, II, X? Thank you for your help.

The new SPL-R series will be available in June. Curt, What are the differences between the SPLII vs SPL-R? Thanks....andy

Hi,
The SPL-R has DSP funtionality for auto-eq, four presets for different source material or use, phase adjustment, night mode, light on/off and mute. These are all controlled by a hand held remote. The SPL-R will also play a little louder, (maintaining extreme accuracy) than the SPL-II.
Curt

Hi Curt and Bruce. I just did a massive read of this forum and am interested in your upcoming SMS-1 system. I am trying to decide between this and the DD-10 sub. As the DD-10 will REALLY stretch my budget to the max (and then some) and I believe my room is too large for that sub anyways (15' x 15' x 20 ceilings - open concept) I would guess that the SMS-1 would be my best bet paired with one of your lower priced subs. Will the SMS-1 be available in Canada and if so, do you have a timeframe in mind? Also, I need a small sub (or pair) with deep bass to partner with this system as they will ba placed in our family room and as such WAF dictates small, attractive and virtually unnoticable. Any suggestions?

Thanks :)

Hi Velodyne staff,
I am in the market for a velodyne sub, and I pretty much have my mind set on the HGS series. I just demoed the HGS-15X the other day, and I was thoroughly impressed. My question is: what is the difference between the different generations? I've tried comparing the literature available on the velodyne's website, and I can't figure out with the differences are. Can you please put down a short, quick list of the differences between HGS I, II, X? Thank you for your help.

Hi,
The original HGS series started in 1999, I believe. In the next few years there were updates to the amplifier addressing reliability and noise issues in certain environments. In 2002 we changed to a Kevlar reinforced cone material. Based on these changes in January 2003 we updated the name to HGS-II. Later that year the HGS-15II and HGS-18II were THX Ultra II certified. The HGS line was temporarily discontinued when we introduced the DD series. In April 2004 we brought out the HGS-X series using the same components as the previous HGS-II series. The HGS-X has a wood grain finish. The previous HGS models were black gloss. On the HGS-X the remote is an option. All HGS models are identified as to model on the back panel.
I hope this helps.
Curt

Hi Curt and Bruce. I just did a massive read of this forum and am interested in your upcoming SMS-1 system. I am trying to decide between this and the DD-10 sub. As the DD-10 will REALLY stretch my budget to the max (and then some) and I believe my room is too large for that sub anyways (15' x 15' x 20 ceilings - open concept) I would guess that the SMS-1 would be my best bet paired with one of your lower priced subs. Will the SMS-1 be available in Canada and if so, do you have a timeframe in mind? Also, I need a small sub (or pair) with deep bass to partner with this system as they will ba placed in our family room and as such WAF dictates small, attractive and virtually unnoticable. Any suggestions?

Thanks :)

Yes the SMS-1 will be available in Canada and everywhere else. We hope to be shipping by late summer/early fall. Your room really calls for a large subwoofer. Based on your request I would look at a pair of SPL-12's.
Curt

Hello, I have a VRP-1200 attached to a JVC receiver.

An Update:
I'd had some problems a few weeks back with the sub not turning on with low volume sources. After trying some of the suggestions in the replies I got, I found that by changing the Phase setting button ( can't remember if it was 0 or 180 ) , the sub now comes on at very low volumes. So that is working great.

Next question:
I have my sub in a fairly big living/dining room and am pleased with the sound from the sub. However I've noticed that with certain scenes in movies with quite low bass, the cabinet on my 57" Sony CRT Projection TV seems to vibrate. Is this what is known as distortion by the sub, or do I have another problem? We recently installed hardwood flooring. Is this perhaps happening because the wood floor is just carrying the sub rumbling to the plastic wheels on my tv? What can I do to fix this? All I can think of is to buy a small area rug and place the tv on top of it. Do you think this would help?

Thanks in advance,

Aaron

Thanks Curt.

Hello, I have a VRP-1200 attached to a JVC receiver.



Next question:
I have my sub in a fairly big living/dining room and am pleased with the sound from the sub. However I've noticed that with certain scenes in movies with quite low bass, the cabinet on my 57" Sony CRT Projection TV seems to vibrate. Is this what is known as distortion by the sub, or do I have another problem? We recently installed hardwood flooring. Is this perhaps happening because the wood floor is just carrying the sub rumbling to the plastic wheels on my tv? What can I do to fix this? All I can think of is to buy a small area rug and place the tv on top of it. Do you think this would help?

Thanks in advance,

Aaron

Hi Aaron,
Low bass response will indeed cause loose things to rattle. That's low bass, not distortion. You might try putting rubber pieces under the feet of the TV. You could try a rug or rubber mat under the sub. The primary thing to do is try to find the rattle areas and deal with them. You may also have the volume on the sub too high.
Curt

Curt - sent pm regarding your recommendation.

Hi,
The original HGS series started in 1999, I believe. In the next few years there were updates to the amplifier addressing reliability and noise issues in certain environments. In 2002 we changed to a Kevlar reinforced cone material. Based on these changes in January 2003 we updated the name to HGS-II. Later that year the HGS-15II and HGS-18II were THX Ultra II certified. The HGS line was temporarily discontinued when we introduced the DD series. In April 2004 we brought out the HGS-X series using the same components as the previous HGS-II series. The HGS-X has a wood grain finish. The previous HGS models were black gloss. On the HGS-X the remote is an option. All HGS models are identified as to model on the back panel.
I hope this helps.
Curt

You say you brought back the HGS-II seriers but I don't see the HGS-II-18 anywhere is their a reason for this?

Curt,

I was looking for info on the sensativivaty and max power of the ULD-18 woofer as i was thinking of geting a bigger amp for mine. It isn't listed in my owners manuel. Also I wanted to ask If the F-1800II series had the same woofer as the ULD-18 , if it didn't what was the Max power handing of the F-1800II woofer and sensativity?

Thanks again,

Sincerly, Ryan

You say you brought back the HGS-II seriers but I don't see the HGS-II-18 anywhere is their a reason for this?

Hi again,
We only make the eighteen in the DD series. There is not a lot of demand for eighteens.
Curt

Curt,

I was looking for info on the sensativivaty and max power of the ULD-18 woofer as i was thinking of geting a bigger amp for mine. It isn't listed in my owners manuel. Also I wanted to ask If the F-1800II series had the same woofer as the ULD-18 , if it didn't what was the Max power handing of the F-1800II woofer and sensativity?

Thanks again,

Sincerly, Ryan

Hi,
No other amp will work with the ULD-18. Part of the amp is the servo comparator circuit. More power would not help anyway as the 400 watts in the ULD-18 is more than enough to drive the woofer to it's limit. The F-1800II woofer has the new design and will not work in the ULD-18 either.
Curt

Hi Curt,
Thanks for the info.
Do you have any spec`s yet on the 12" SPL-R ? , basicly how low and loud !
Are the cabinets the same size ?
Many thanks,
Gary

Gary,
Same size. A little deeper and a bit louder. The 3db down points are SPL-800R (26hz), SPL-1000R (23hz), SPL-1200R (21hz).
Curt

Curt,
Thank you for the info :)
SPL-1200R , I will have to listen to :D
Gary

O-BTW -- Curt,
Tweeter has them in there system , but don`t have any "stock date" info.
Could we be looking at the first or last part of June for stores to be getting there stock.
Many thanks,
Gary

Gary,
Probably the middle of June. I hate to sound like a salesman, but the SPL-R's are incredible subwoofers. Bruce has done his software magic again.
Curt

Question Curt,

I get a poping noice when ever I turn on my Fan from my F-1800XR. Is there anyway to stop this annoying sound?