* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * [Text View] - Page 7

MrHifi

07-06-05, 10:59 PM

Brian27,

One does not "calibrate" a speaker. One adjusts the speaker controls to achieve a desired response. Please everyone stop using the word "calibrate". One calibrates something by adjusting it's controls in such a way that the unit performs like a known "reference". As an example, in the audio world Sound Pressure Level meters get calibrated to secondary reference units which are in turn calibrated to established reference standards. A traceable reference system must be in place for a calibration to be valid.

I am sure that Curt and the fellows at Velodyne will tell you to adjust speakers by altering the frequency response characteristics using whatever controls might be available on a given unit. they will not suggest that you calibrate a speaker.

If you're gonna "walk the walk" then learn to "talk the talk."

scottielee

07-06-05, 11:52 PM

hi Curt,
what can i use to clean finger prints off the dd-12 black gloss cabinet?
thanks.
scottie

theranman

07-07-05, 12:59 AM

naptha..if ya wanna mess with petroleum based solvents. :)

Brian27

07-07-05, 01:19 AM

Well sorry MRHIFI if I'm not using correct language for you... but my receiver manual has a level calibration menu where it states to calibrate the levels of your speakers to a predetermined reference level which is 75db. That is what I told you I have done and that I listen about 10db under that. You need to quit worrying about kissing the but of others more experianced than you and help the person you are replying to instead of giving them lessons on correct word usage when you obviously know what they are talking about...well then maybe not?? Most people use the word calibrate because thats what it is! I guess my receiver manual and most likely many others are wrong when they tell you to CALIBRATE to a predetermined reference level???? Maybe you should be learning to "Talk the Talk" before replying to others with questions or maybe you read my posts wrong?? Are you the type that has to try to make others feel stupid to make yourself feel superior?

THIS IS ONE MEANING FROM THE DICTIONARY:
-To CALIBRATE- to adjust precisely for a particular function
........As in a predetermined reference level maybe???

theranman

07-07-05, 01:49 AM

"Fanfare For The Common Man"

-Copeland

scottielee

07-07-05, 09:38 AM

hi Curt,

on a dd-12, would there be any problems simultaneously feeding the right channel rca input and xlr input for left channel?

currently i am using xlr-rca adapters to feed the rca input for both channels. the adapters are slightly too big to make perfect connections to both rca inputs simultaneously.

thanks!
scottie

theranman

07-07-05, 09:54 AM

or for THAT matter, is it possible for a DD sub to actually accomodate 2 different signals simultaneously thru both its inputs? Let's say that one has an electric piano and wants to play along with some CD music. Would it overwhelm the DD's voltage sensor to have one input connected to a pre-pro's output and the other coming in from the split off of the piano?

Thanks,

Ran

ps- to those who are about to respond with "even if you could, you'd be hearing the piano thru the sub", I have an external active xover box for the piano's outboard speakers.

MrHifi

07-07-05, 10:40 AM

Ranman,

I have a Technics PR902 Digital Ensemble that I often route to my audio system. It is quite exciting to to pull out the stops on the 16ft pipe MIDI simulation and listen to the reproduction through my 18" Velodyne sub. It is like playing in a cathedral. BTW, if you have any music you might like to trade, I just finished Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue". It is encoded in the Technics File Format but I can convert it to GM easily.

theranman

07-07-05, 11:11 AM

"Rhapsody In Blue"?? You disgust me. I've been working on that piece for over 10 yrs and STILL can only do about 1/3 of it at best. Can I blame it on small hands? :) Actually, it is by far my favorite piece, but my reading and fingering skills suck to the point I've mostly given up. Hey, as long as I can play the first couple of pages well enough to fool people into thinking I can play the whole thing, that's all that counts, right? :D

My other favorite keyboardist is Dave Grusin...I just LOVE the kind of stuff he did for "The Firm". A few of those I can actually come close to playing.

But back to my question....

Do you think I can connect two sources at the same time to my Velo's two inputs without blowing the thing up or sending feedback back to the processor?

Ran

MrHifi

07-07-05, 11:21 AM

Ran,

I would not. Unless those inputs and outputs are buffered, you stand a good chance of damaging one or more pieces of gear. Ground loops alone could cause trouble. The fellows from Velo will have to address this but I believe there must be some warning in the directions advising against this.

BTW, It has taken me almost 5 years to complete the MIDi version. It was constructed one note at a time. It is 99% true to Gershwin's original arrangement for solo piano. I was faithful to pedal, accents, timing and written cues in the music assigning each note a list of 12-16 attributes. Some chords took an hour to completely characterize. I do not believe there is another version a complete as this one.

theranman

07-07-05, 11:33 AM

I'd love to hear it. :)

I'm using an ancient Kurzweil 250...might donate it to the Smithsonian one day. Right now, it needs some key adjustment and it's in a semi-open state. Kinda funny to see how large the motherboards are inside...HUGE.

shadow 8

07-07-05, 11:37 AM

jedi29

07-07-05, 08:09 PM

Not to get off trax :D
But I wish I had a B-3 !
Gary ;)

curt c

07-07-05, 08:35 PM

curt c

07-07-05, 08:38 PM

FIVE ONE SIX

07-08-05, 02:01 PM

i noticed that someone posted in another thread that SoundCity is offering refurbished Velo DLS-3750R's for $299 plus shipping. are these factory Velo refurbs? and if so, are they cosmetic refurbs with scratches, elecronic refubs that have been repaired, or both? also, do they have any type of warranty from Velo? and if so, what type of warranty is given?

curt c

07-08-05, 02:18 PM

Hi,
The units you are referring to are factory refurbs. They are primarily electronic refurbs but may have picked up some handling scratches. The warranty is the same as for a new product, two years parts and labor.
Curt

Spizz

07-08-05, 07:29 PM

Craig- You have been running your DD-18 without Version 2.0 all this time? I thought you would of been one of the 1st to upgrade to this version when it came out ;) Please advise us of your findings as I am looking at possibly upgrading from my M&K MX-350 THX Ultra Subwoofer to the DD-18 THX Ultra 2 subwoofer and wanted to make sure I would notice a difference.

Secondly anyone using the DD-15 or DD-18 in the THX Ultra 2 mode. From the Manual-

THX Ultra2 Presets for the Velodyne Digital Drive Series:
To set the DD-15 and DD-18 to meet THX Ultra2 requirements, customize Preset 5 with the following parameters:

- Low Pass Crossover Frequency: OFF
- Low Pass Crossover Slope: 6 dB per octave
- Subsonic Frequency: 15Hz
- Subsonic Slope: 24 dB per octave
- Phase: User adjustable
- Polarity: User adjustable
- Volume: 25
- Contour Frequency: Default
- Contour Level: 0.0
- Theater/Music: 8
- Night Mode Volume: Default in OFF position

If I use this mode does it defeat the settings from the Auto EQ?

tweeterex

07-08-05, 11:31 PM

No, it those adjustable controls are done in addition to/after you've run tones and the frequency adjustments have been put in as a "base line", although it may/will alter the curve from the , presumably flat, base line, initial set-up.

elvisior

07-09-05, 12:08 AM

G'day,

My F1800RII just stopped making any sound (the power light still comes on to tease me though).
Any hope the problem is something simple that I can fix myself (as I'm in Geelong, Australia)?

THanks for any and all advice..

Travis

curt c

07-09-05, 01:06 AM

Travis,
Contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com. They will provide information on where to send the amplifier. The amp is easily removable.
Curt

jedi29

07-11-05, 07:44 PM

Omen

07-12-05, 10:51 AM

curt,

I just got my HGS-15 amp back from Velodyne a couple of days ago. It works perfectly! And to top it off, I didn't have to ship a ~100 lb sub!

Thanks again for your help.

BruceHall

07-12-05, 04:08 PM

Hi Curt or Bruce,
I`m trying out a new SPL-1200R and have a couple of questions.
1 ) Does the mic need to pluged in for calibration only ?
2 )Following the instructions , I pushed the "EQ" button for 2 sec. and the sweeps started but stopped after about 5 or 6 , the manual states 12 , is the sub faulty or just gathered the information needed.
3 ) Every time I change a setting on my amp ( DSP-A1G ) or change the master volume on same the sub "clicks". Is that also normal ?
Also when I first hooked it up and turned it on it made a "burr" + "click" sound , that I think was normal, just the amp firing up , however it no longer makes that sound.
Last , the one I`m trying is black , any idea when they will start receiving the "Cherry" for delivery ? ( changed mind from Maple )
Many thanks guy`s,
Gary
PS:
Will be posting a full review when testing is complete.

Hi Gary,
1. The mic only needs to be plugged in for calibration. It's input is ignored at all other times.
2. 5 or 6 is a very odd number. If there is not enough signal (usually because the mic is not plugged in), the unit will stop sweeping after 2 sweeps and not reset the EQs. If there is mic signal, the unit will always sweep 12 times then save settings.
3. This is not normal. That click is coming wither from your electronics or the sub.

Re the "burr" and "click" sounds - these are not normal either, and it makes me think the volume problem in #3 is in fact the sub. It might be prudent to contact your dealer and let's get it in to take a look.

Re the cherry, those will arrive in another 2 weeks or so.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

jedi29

07-12-05, 07:22 PM

Hi Bruce,
Many thanks for your reply.
Here`s the deal so far , excatly what I did when I unpacked the sub.
1st turned it on after hook-up and left the settings at 3 ( on the sub ). Listened to various material.
2nd , pluged in microphone and held the "EQ" button on the remote for 2 sec. and the sweep tones started and it was about 5 or 6 not 12 , and during that time the sub was very loud and the driver excursion was a great deal more than what seemed normal.
3rd, after the 5 or 6 sweeps , unpluged mic. and play some Alan Parson`s there was no difference in any of the "EQ" settings.
4th , just finished watching the "Aviator" and during "quiet" parts I could hear the sub "clicking".
I think your right about getting a faulty one.
Is there any set distrance for the microphone to be ,{ie so many feet from sub ? } , it was about 5' during my initial test.
I am using a "Y" adapter , for more signal , sounds a-ok with both music and sound FX in movie tracks ( "Attack of the Clones" was a-ok ) .
A side from the unit not completing it`s calibration and the clicking is there any else that I should try with a replacment.
Should I run the sub at a low setting ( say 3 ) for a period of time before jumping right in and trying to calibrate it ?
I am going to try to get another , so any tips that you could provide will be a big help.
Many thanks , for your time and help.
Gary

Expletive

07-13-05, 07:25 PM

rnrgagne

07-13-05, 09:16 PM

I'm not going to go back through 1500 + posts so I apologize in advance if this has been addressed recently. Any sign of the SMS-1?

Jake Sm

07-13-05, 09:41 PM

I'd like to use DD subs but wonder if you had any thoughts on other models that may be more suited for an in wall (but on the floor) installation.

James Powerport

Expletive

07-14-05, 07:44 AM

James Powerport

Yes i know about the James, i meant other Velodyne models. But thanks for the reply. :)

John

shadow 8

07-14-05, 08:22 AM

I'm not going to go back through 1500 + posts so I apologize in advance if this has been addressed recently. Any sign of the SMS-1?

A few weeks ago either Curt or Bruce said expect availability in Sept or Oct. My big concern is price. The SMS-1 was originally rumored to be $499, but for the past few months speculation has had the price as high as $699. With the Onix RDES going for as low as $300 if you have a family discount, price is a critical factor for me to sell to my wife. :) RDES is available now too which is very tempting. Any firm info on price now for the SMS-1 would sure be appreciated.

Jake Sm

07-14-05, 09:14 AM

How do they units compare?
What does the RDES on-screen display look like? could someone link a picture so we can see how adjustable it is?

vvv

07-14-05, 03:11 PM

BruceHall

07-14-05, 03:43 PM

A few weeks ago either Curt or Bruce said expect availability in Sept or Oct. My big concern is price. The SMS-1 was originally rumored to be $499, but for the past few months speculation has had the price as high as $699. With the Onix RDES going for as low as $300 if you have a family discount, price is a critical factor for me to sell to my wife. :) RDES is available now too which is very tempting. Any firm info on price now for the SMS-1 would sure be appreciated.

Hi,
We haven't "officially" set the price, but it's looking like $699 retail. Street price will be about $600 probably.

Re delivery, we're looking at September at this point, depending on how the beta goes ;)

Hope this helps,
Bruce

BruceHall

07-14-05, 03:45 PM

I am running a DD-18 version 1.2 I want to download the update and have a couple of questions:

1. Does the auto-calibrate do a good job? May auto-calibrate systems are not very effective.

2. What kind of cable do I need to buy to transfer the data from my computer to my sub? My computer does not have the RS-232 style output?

Hi,
1. The auto-calibrate will typically get to +/- 3 dB. You can calibrate manually after that if you wish to flatten more.

2. You can use a USB to RS 232 adapter and a male-to-female RS232 mouse extension cable for the update. Both available at any computer store.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

BruceHall

07-14-05, 03:48 PM

Bruce/Curt,

Waht are your feelings on installing any of your models flush into a wall for a custom installation? There would either be rear access or about a foot of clearance for cables, etc.

I'd like to use DD subs but wonder if you had any thoughts on other models that may be more suited for an in wall (but on the floor) installation.

Better yet, any plans for an in wall sub?

John

Hi John,
Such installations happen all the time. In fact, the majority of DD subs are custom installed in some way. THe Switching amp runs virtually cold, so there are little heat issues.

Re an inwall ask me again in about 3 months. :D

Hope this helps,
Bruce

shadow 8

07-14-05, 05:14 PM

Thanks for you answer to the SMS-1 availability question. I will hold off and wait for it to be introduced. :)

Expletive

07-14-05, 06:15 PM

Hi John,
Such installations happen all the time. In fact, the majority of DD subs are custom installed in some way. THe Switching amp runs virtually cold, so there are little heat issues.

Re an inwall ask me again in about 3 months. :D

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Thanks for all the great info Bruce. I'm setting a reminder in Outlook for 3 months... ;)

John

vvv

07-14-05, 10:57 PM

I bought a 10 foot RS-232 cable and a RS-232 to USB adapter

The male side of both the RS-232 cable and adapter have small hex rivets that correspond perfectly with the hex bolts found on the Female RS-232 input on my DD-18. The result is that the male and female RS-232 connections cannot interface as they should.

Has anyone else ran into this problem?

The RS-232 bolts can be removed from the DD-18 but I fear the RS-232 jack will be lost inside the DD-18.

Any direction would be appreciated.

Loner

07-15-05, 11:09 AM

Hi,
We haven't "officially" set the price, but it's looking like $699 retail. Street price will be about $600 probably.

Re delivery, we're looking at September at this point, depending on how the beta goes ;)

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Bummer... that'll run me close to $1000 canadian :( I only have a DPS-12, and was keeping my eye out, but it'll cost twice as much as my sub did! :D That money would probably have been better spent on a better sub, although I am very happy with the DPS-12. I've been very intrigued with the idea of the SMS-1. The DPS-12 is working well enough in my room! All I need is smoother response and I will be set! Ah well, one can dream!

Don

yakuzaboss1975

07-15-05, 11:01 PM

hi curt/bruce,

i just got back up my sub which was being repaired, which i dropped off 5 weeks ago, from a&b sound.

and i was wondering if you guys can give me some advice on subwoofer and receiver settings (crossovers, volume levels, etc.).

i have the velodyne deco 7.1 system which is being juiced by an onkyo tx-nr901 av receiver (110w X 7 @ 8ohms).

i presently have the subwoofer level at a little less than half on the sub. there is no subwoofer volume on the receiver. although the db level is set to 0 along with all of the satellite speakers. i'm using the crossover on the receiver, which is set to 120hz. if i use the receiver crossover, does it automatically override the built in crossover on the sub? does it matter what the crosserover is set at on the sub or should i set it to something higher or even all the way up or the same as the receiver?

your advice would be greatly appreciated. please and thank you very much.

John Kotches

07-16-05, 09:15 AM

I'm not Curt or Bruce, and I don't play them on the internet. Regardless, you really only want one crossover affecting the signal, instead of cascading crossovers.

On the back of the sub included with the Deco setup, there's a switch with two positions "internal crossover" and "subwoofer direct". Set it to "subwoofer direct" and only the receiver crossover is in the circuit which is what you want in your case.

Cheers,

sjoh

07-19-05, 07:59 PM

javis

07-20-05, 02:09 AM

Curt C, or anyone else that can help.

Taking delivery of a DD15 in a week or so.
After speaking with the velo rep in my area it was suggested I cable up in the following manner. (my primary concern is 2.1 channel stereo)

from L&R (front speaker pre out) RCA cable Denon 3805 A/V receiver
to
L&R RCA Input of DD15
then
L&R RCA Output of DD15
to
L&R RCA Input of 2 channel power amp.

Going to spend quite a bit on cables doing it this way; 2 pairs of 3 meter sets, as against using the sub out on my receiver. If the end result however is better integration with the front mains then I don't mind.
Any constructive advice would be appreciated as this is all new to me.
I'm very excited. Haven't had a new toy for quite some time! :D

jedi29

07-20-05, 08:11 PM

I`ll take a crack at it :D
Does your Denon have a sub out ? If so just 1 cable is all that would be needed even if it`s just stereo. I have a Yammy DSP-A1 and I have always used the sub out (just 1 cable) and often I listen to music in straight stereo and it sounds just fine.
Sejin ,
Try using a "Y" connector or cable , if that doesn`t work leaving the sub "ON" takes very little power and will not shorten the life of the sub.
I had an F-1200R that I left pluged in and turned ON for almost 9 years.
Just curio , what color did you get ?
Good luck guy`s,
Gary

javis

07-20-05, 08:55 PM

Yes the Denon has a sub out.
I was using it with my previous boom box, so I know hooking it up that way will work just fine. However hooking it up the other way I am told (from velo) will acheive far better results. If someone out there has tried both methods I would like to know wether the results justify $320 worth of cables.

louthewiz

07-20-05, 09:11 PM

If you want to save a substantual amount of money on cables to wire up your sub go to www.partsexpress.com , and use street wires for the rca hook ups and moster basic for speaker hook ups which I use with my velodyne DPS-10 and my klipsch ksw-10 and they give me superb sound and they are triple shielded and will not pick up any hum or sound that can interfere with it.

irezumi

07-20-05, 11:22 PM

hi - I'm brand new to the forum, and hoping to get some help w/ my sub; I'm not too familiar w/ all the technical lingo, and am @ a beginner's level of knowledge of the working elements of speakers/subs, but I'm a fast learner.
I have an older model sub [VA-806], which I know is discontinued, but I'm hoping the info I need will still apply. I've had this model for 8 years, it's been a superb addition to my hi-fi; after a short period of non-use, when I turn on the sub, everything powers up as it should, but the sound that comes out is VERY faint - in fact, barely audible.
upon examining the speaker itself, I found no rips, tears, pinholes, or other damage; upon examining the connecting wires, I found them all secure and intact. with a novice eye's look @ the amplifier, nothing appeared to be out-of-sorts. in fact, nothing looks wrong.
is it possible that the amplifier has somehow "petered out" or otherwise failed/died? is there a more obvious problem/solution that my level of expertise (or lack thereof) is overlooking?
let me first say that I have not "maxed out" the subwoofer's potential, in fact, it has only been played @ moderate levels, and the other components in my stereo system would not be pushing the sub beyond its capability.
any and all advice would be welcome and appreciated - especially from an aficionado/expert/well-trained person in this field - keep in mind that my grasp of these functions is basic, so I'd appreciate it if advice/lingo could be "dumbed down," so to speak. thanks!

sjoh

07-21-05, 12:34 AM

Sejin ,
Try using a "Y" connector or cable , if that doesn`t work leaving the sub "ON" takes very little power and will not shorten the life of the sub.
I had an F-1200R that I left pluged in and turned ON for almost 9 years.
Just curio , what color did you get ?
Good luck guy`s,
Gary

Hello Gary,

Thanks for your reply - I am using a Y cable to connect my sub to the receiver. I am relieved to hear that it's OK to leave the amp always on - I think that's what I'll do from now.

I got the one in cherry - it looks really nice.

Take care,
Sejin.

D. Saint

07-21-05, 03:56 PM

Hello Eveyone,

I recently purchased an SPL-1200II; I'm very happy with the sub, except for one issue - when I have the sub set to auto-on it keeps turning itself on/off too often for my liking. So, I have couple of questions:

1. If I leave the subwoofer on all the time does it reduce the lifespan of the amp, and if so, by how much?

2. How much power does the sub consume when it is on with silent input? Does this quiescent power consumption depend on the position of the volume knob at the back of the sub?

Thanks in advance,
Sejin.

Dear Sejin,

The problem you've described can be easily remedied by simply re-adjusting your levels. If you decrease the volume setting on your subwoofer to @ the 9-10 O'clock position, and increase the subwoofer output level on your receiver or processor to achieve the proper output level from the subwoofer, this should correct that condition. In addition you may also try adding a Y-adaptor to the subwoofer inputs.
Leaving the subwoofer on continuously will not have an appreciable impact on the subwoofer's lifespan and the subwoofer will consume negligible power when simply sitting idle.

Enjoy your subwoofer!

D. Saint
Velodyne Acoustics

D. Saint

07-21-05, 04:15 PM

D. Saint

07-21-05, 04:29 PM

Irezumi,

You mention that the subwoofer's output drops off to next to nothing after it has been shut off for a period of time, does it come back to "normal levels" after some period of play?
This could be something as simple as an intermittent volume control on the amplifier module, which would not be altogether unusual in an older sub such as this.
I might suggest you try to plug another source into the subwoofer such as your CD or DVD player and see if the problem persist. If it does not, there may be a problem with your receiver the subwoofer output, or the cable.

Thanks,

sjoh

07-21-05, 08:22 PM

Dear Sejin,

The problem you've described can be easily remedied by simply re-adjusting your levels. If you decrease the volume setting on your subwoofer to @ the 9-10 O'clock position, and increase the subwoofer output level on your receiver or processor to achieve the proper output level from the subwoofer, this should correct that condition. In addition you may also try adding a Y-adaptor to the subwoofer inputs.
Leaving the subwoofer on continuously will not have an appreciable impact on the subwoofer's lifespan and the subwoofer will consume negligible power when simply sitting idle.

Enjoy your subwoofer!

D. Saint
Velodyne Acoustics

Thanks for your reply. Based on your post and jedi29's reply I think I will leave my sub on continuously.

Regards,
Sejin.

KaBudokan

07-22-05, 12:53 PM

I just wanted to take a moment to post a thumbs up for your CHT satellite system.

I recently moved to a new apartment, and with some rearrangement of my mix-and-match HT setup, I was out a center channel speaker. My 4 other speakers were some older Infinity bookshelves that would be tough to match with something, and additionally, the layout of my living room was pushing me toward a wall-mounted option.

Having poked around the Velodyne site after recently purchasing a CHT-12 from Circuit City (at a ridiculously low closeout price), I came across your clearance page. I did a little research (not too much out there on these puppies). With my current situation, I finally decided to go ahead and drop $159 to pick up the white CHT system. The white satellite, black center setup, while seeming odd at first, actually fit my layout perfectly. When they arrived I quickly set them up, mounting the surrounds on the walls. The system looks great and gives me quite a bit more room.

The sound is killer with the CHT-12 sub dialed in, and I can finally appreciate what everyone says about having a timbre-matched system. I have trouble verbalizing sound quality, etc. (and I'm an English teacher!!!), but I did notice a significantly "sweeter" and punchier midrange, and the top end is quite nice as well.

I just wanted to put a post up, because anyone looking for an inexpensive option for top-quality sound would be crazy to ignore this system. I'm sure the Deco system is great as well, but for $409 total (including the CHT-12), I can't imagine a better setup for the price.

Oh - one quick note/concern. When I placed the center on top of my TV, I actually WAS getting a distorted picture. I know magnetically-shielded speakers always say they allow you to place the speaker "near" a TV, but I assumed it could go directly on it without a problem. It didn't, but I was able to get an acceptable placement going under it on my HT furniture.

jedi29

07-25-05, 10:08 PM

Hey Guy`s from Velodyne :D
When are the SPL-1200R Cherry or Maple going to show up ??????
The clock is ticking , and I`m not crazy about the Gloss Black !!
Don`t get me wrong , it looks a-ok but shows every little spec of dust Big Time.
Need time frame , thanks :D
Gary

curt c

07-26-05, 11:42 AM

Gary,
All colors of SPL-R's are now in stock. Back orders are being shipped. Check with your dealer to see if he has ordered the cherry or maple.
Thanks,
Curt

memnoch2

07-26-05, 04:42 PM

Javis,

Your Dennon receiver assuming it has a subwoofer output will in my humble opinion do just as effective a job without the need to buy all of the additional cables you suggest. Simply use the speaker setup menu on the receiver to choose the correct speaker size for your system. If possible select the crossover frequency that most closely matches the capability of your speakers. The receiver will then route the remaining low frequency information to the subwoofer.
The DD subwoofer will give you all of the additional flexability you need to get the a seamless itegration between the speakers, subwoofer & your room.
i think one issue with this is when one uses Pure Direct mode when listening to stereo sources. i believe that receivers have varying implementations with their Direct modes. some will send full-range only to left and right channels, regardless of speaker size. to send bass signals to the subwoofer would require using a crossover and DSP which would defeat the purpose of Pure Direct, right? Hooking the left and right channels first to the sub will allow the processor to think that they are Large speakers and won't have any issue sending full-range unadulterated signal.

jedi29

07-26-05, 06:52 PM

Thanks Curt
Gary :D

jedi29

07-27-05, 10:09 PM

Hi Curt,
My dealer says "nix" to ordering anything but black SPL-1200R.
Has no idea of when the Cherry or Maple , wil be avalible :confused:
Any thoughts ?
Thanks, Gary

PS: I know that online is not a thing that Velodyne likes , but even Vann`s is no longer taking pre-orders and there e-mail "when avalible" is now longer an option.

curt c

07-27-05, 10:31 PM

Hi,
Cherry and Maple are available, but he does need to place an order.
Curt

jedi29

07-28-05, 09:13 AM

Hi Curt,
Thanks for confirming that , so if I take my gloss black , back to Tweeter Ect. and do what I planed , how long should I have to wait for a Cherry SPL-1200R ?
It would be delivered to Canton Mass. and from there to there Nashua N.H. store.
Just wondering how long I would be with out a sub :(
Many thanks for all you efforts :D
Gary

curt c

07-28-05, 04:34 PM

Gary,
As I said they are in stock. We would ship the day after the order is placed. UPS would take 5-7 business days. Check with Tweeter as to the shipping between Canton Mass. and the store in Nashua. I'd guess you be subless in Nashua for 10-12 days.
Curt

jedi29

07-28-05, 06:04 PM

Hi Curt,
Get This !! :(
Tweeter told me it would be 6~8 Weeks :eek:
My friend that is crazzzzy.
I asked why so long ," paper work" by the time it would take there main offce to get the order then process it , then call you guy`s , then receive the sub ( then more paper work ) I just can`t belive it. Do you guy`s sell direct ?
Here`s another one ( your not going to like this) picked up another black one (remember the 1st one didn`t want to sweep 12 times , although I finally got it to , I figured I`d check out another before I placed the order ) the one I have now has a ground loop hiss at about 19K to 19.5K :confused:
I know only buzzing insects are supposed to hear that high but when I shut it off it goes away.
I`m stubon, and loyal :) I want an SPL-1200R realy but I want a realy good one.
The first one also had a mis-aligned driver as well , but the good news is the 2nd one the driver is properly installed and it does the 12 sweeps no sweat.
I run it dry ( no signal ) for about 3~4 hours then played some soft rock for a couple of hours ( at factory settings ) then I shut it down and dug out the mic and did the calibration , I know (as I`m typing , listening to Super Tramp -"Breakfast in America" at the volume is set now at 35 and I`m getting plenty of great clean bass , when this puppy lossens up it`s gona scream :D
BUT , do ground loops lessen in time ( I don`t think so ) ?
O-well , the auto on does not seem as responsive as the first ( I am using a "Y" cable ), maybe I have to wait until the sub is really lose and bring the volume up to 45 like the other one.
Anyway , I`m happy when bass is playing or when it`s shut off !!!
Thanks for all your help
O-BTW , I figured i would post the progress of the new SPL-R so if anyone else cares to gather info or "chime-in" that would be great !!
Take care and thanks,
Gary

curt c

07-29-05, 02:01 PM

Gary,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

jedi29

07-29-05, 09:07 PM

Hi Curt ,
Thanks you also have a PM
Gary

EricQ

07-30-05, 11:59 AM

How much do the dd series cost? Where can you buy it?

*I found the info*

shadow 8

07-30-05, 01:34 PM

You might get on the Velodyne web site and get some local dealers as well as authorized internet dealers...

iboon

08-02-05, 11:36 AM

The internet direct model is not gonna work with a company that also sells retail through audio specialty shops - unless each channel gets separate and distinct product lines.

In other words, you want Velo to become SVS. Sounds good, but you typically have to audition speakers before you buy them.

iboon

08-02-05, 11:43 AM

My fiance theorizes that the magnetic field is helping with our poodle's arthritis, she is quite an old dog.

-Ed[/QUOTE]

That's funny, but I thought the older one got, the less one enjoys bass! :confused:

HughScot

08-02-05, 12:04 PM

Curt or Bruce,

I'm looking to purchase a Velodyne Sub and I need some help in deciding which is best for my situation. I have a HT located in a "dead" room of 4500 cubic feet. No openings, heavy drapes, etc. My left and right speakers are Mirage M1si's, these are the five foot high bipolar models with very good bass response driven by two Bryston 7BST (500W RMS) amps. I also have five additional speakers. The other speakers are driven by my Denon 4802 Receiver and this will be the pre-amp for the new Sub. In addition to watching HDTV and movies on DVD, I also listen to CD's of a wide variety including classical as well as rock/pop. When I watch something like U571 I want to really feel the bass....nothing wimpy. Price is a factor and I realize the huge difference between MSRP and retail on your subs, so from a retail standpoint I'd like to stay under 2.5K. Considering the size of my two main speakers should I still program the receiver to "small"? If you can recommend more than one of your speakers it would be appreciated, or if my price point is too low to get what I want just say so and recommend something more costly.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards,
Hugh

curt c

08-02-05, 12:43 PM

Hugh,
For that size room to really feel the bass, my recommendation would be the DD-18. In your stated budget you might consider the HGS-15X. As for selecting large or small on your speakers I would try both methods and see which you prefer. (BTW I'm familiar with your speakers) Often multiple speakers playing the same frequencies interfere with each other. When you have the proper size subwoofer it's usually best to filter your mains.
Thanks,
Curt

HughScot

08-02-05, 12:51 PM

Curt, thanks so much for your quick reply. I figured you were going to recommend the DD18. I've heard it but one never knows until you get it home. I'll try and find a HGS-15X to give a listen.

Hugh

BenBau

08-02-05, 01:41 PM

Curt,
Talking about the DD-18. Can we expect the updated Philips Pronto definitions for the DD-series soon ?
In my case everything works except the discrete on & off....

HughScot

08-02-05, 08:06 PM

Curt,

I think I may try using two subs but I noticed you posted the following in an earlier post: "When using two subs they can support or cancel each other, so location of each is important."

Is there a magic formula or is it trial and error as respects location when using two subs?

Hugh

curt c

08-02-05, 08:29 PM

Hugh,
Trial and error if fine. In my experience, I've achieved the best results by placing them together or on the front wall with the mains. When the space is large or open the two front corners (if available) usually work well to maximize output. I have found you need to be careful when doing front and rear or front and side but I have known of situations where that worked out well. I often use and recommend two eighteens in large areas.
Curt

Dean_KS

08-13-05, 02:02 AM

I have 2 DD-15's, around 10 months old. One failed and here is the story.

-Two DD-15's. One failed.
-One would not power on, completely dead.
-Called Velodyne for advice, got RMA.
-Pulled the amp out, one of the two 12A fuses toast, found a 10A fuse, no internal cables disturbed.
-Powered up, nothing external connected other than power cord. VERY loud hum!
-Talked to velodyne and suggested possible test with amp from good system put in the bad one... to rule out an accelerometer fault. Did that and that worked great.
-So we know fault is in the amp and I shipped that off today.

The amp is very compact and light weight. So I was very relieved that the very large and heavy driver did not need to be shipped out for an accelerometer repair.

Yes, system under warranty.

There are 5 cables to remove and replace. Marked connectors with board positions. Older units have a ground (6th) cable, newer do not. (That ground cable goes to the speaker frame.) If you do this yourself someday, taking a digital picture might be useful. Cable to J8 has three pins and goes onto a 5 pin header... nice to know that it goes onto the right most 3 pins.

System under warranty.

Tech support was really great to work with!

Shift

08-16-05, 01:17 AM

Velodyne techs or owners.

I purchased a brand new Velodyne VRP-1200 and by all means it sounds damn nice when it is ON.

But I see a small annoying issue that this VRP-1200 intends to do.

The amp on it only has "AUTO-ON" mode only, which means that it only comes on once it detects the A/V receiver is on.

Let me just say this. I make sure my SUB setting on my receiver is ON and then when I put a dvd movie it, it (the VRP-1200) comes on but only sometimes then shuts off or sometimes it will not even come on (read below).

This is very, very annoying. There are scenes I know that bass is suppose to be working and the sub does not AUTO turn on. I am having to climb over my sofa and pull out my subwoofer cable and then plugging it back to get the the AMP green light to come on.
Out of 10 times, maybe once the AUTO detection on the AMP turns on, the 9 other times I have to reach over my sofa and pull the subwoofer cable and then plug it back in the LFE to get it to come on. Keep in mind,, I did return the 1st sub since I assume it was a sub issue, but nope the 2nd sub replacement is doing the same. Anyone please help.? Thank you

Shift

08-16-05, 01:26 AM

Is this maybe what I need to do to bypass the AUTO to make it get a better signal?

http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/tech/faqanswer.aspx?ID=16&sid=736w538a

"How do I hook up Velodyne subwoofers to my single (mono) sub out jack?
The signal sensitivity of the auto on/off circuit can be altered by the input hookup. If you use both inputs (connected by a "Y" cable or splitter cable) the unit will see greater signal at the inputs and turn on at a lower signal level. With only one input connected the unit will require greater signal levels to turn on automatically."

Shift

08-16-05, 01:27 AM

What I am thinking is I do play my unit under lower volume due to the kids in bed. I am thinkg that since I play at low volumes that the auto on the amp is not getting the signal. hummmm

shadow 8

08-16-05, 08:23 AM

You need more line output from your receiver to your sub. Decrease your subs output and increase your receivers output to make up for it and see what happens.

Shift

08-16-05, 08:58 AM

You need more line output from your receiver to your sub. Decrease your subs output and increase your receivers output to make up for it and see what happens.

So what your saying is to crank my amp higher to send a better signal to my sub and also to lower my power level on the sub amp?

Not sure what you mean by this. :(

curt c

08-16-05, 09:27 AM

Hi,
The following hook-up method is recommended for the VRP/VX series.
1) Use a "Y" splitter at the Velodyne end into both inputs.
2) Put the phase switch at the loudest position, usually "0".
3) Raise the internal volume for the subwoofer jack in your receiver. Factory setting is usually at half, raise to three forths.
4) Keep the volume on the Velodyne to less than one half.
If you have questions, please call me direct.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Shift

08-16-05, 12:17 PM

Curt. Thanks I will try this. Overall very impressed how this 12" sounds.

memnoch2

08-18-05, 02:00 PM

is the remote control file available in another format, hopefully in .mxd or .mxf for Universal Remote's HTM remotes? the one at RemoteCentral seems to be for a Marantz remote, and my MX-700 Editor cannot "read" it via the Universal Browser. maybe you can also create an actual Pronto ccf, which seems to be readable by the MX-700 Editor. thanks.

hezoos

08-19-05, 11:28 AM

Just got hold of a S-1200-b (Servo Control), circa 1991, and can't seem to find much useful info. What're the basic specs, such as wattage? How hard is it to replace the driver, considering the servo and such? Is it complete sacrilege to throw a non-Velodyne driver in there?

curt c

08-19-05, 11:59 AM

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

UnknownShadow

08-24-05, 12:56 PM

Guys, I tried a Velo DPS-12 a while back and the "touch panel" buttons annoyed me so much I had to return it. Especially the volume control, no way to know what the volume was set at. I'm wondering if Velo will be releasing a new version of the DPS-12 this year with regular knobs for the controls? Or maybe replacing the DPS-12 with a new model? Any idea?

curt c

08-24-05, 01:08 PM

UnknownShadow

08-24-05, 02:37 PM

Hi,
Most of the response on the touch panel has been positive. Are you aware the DLS-R series have all the DSP features on a hand held remote instead of the panel. The two series share the same components. Cosmetics are also different. The DLS-4000R is the counterpart to the DPS-12 and costs $50 more. I like making the changes from listening position so the remote is great.
Thanks,
Curt

I should clarify... I have no problem with the "touch" buttons but I do have a major problem with not knowing what the volume level of my sub is. Either put an LED display on there (which I think would look ugly) or put the regular volume knob back so I can see at a glance what volume the sub is set at. Have the kids been messing with the buttons? Has the wife turned down the bass like she loves to do? You have no idea of knowing on the DSP-12. And no, the "light blinking faster/slower" is not a solution. It's a very bad implementation.

For the DSP modes the touch buttons are fine. Basically, for anything that you just want to turn ON or OFF the touch buttons are fine. They work fine as a selection or toggle switch. But changing the volume with them is a bad bad idea.

Does the remote control have an LED to show the volume level of the sub? If Velo has totally abandoned the normal volume knob then I may as well start looking elsewhere.

I'm surprised more people don't find this annoying.

tonydeluce

08-24-05, 02:45 PM

Curt,

Is anyone taking pre-orders for the SMS-1 yet? Is
there anyplace that will get these before others?

Thanks,

Tony

screxer

08-24-05, 03:28 PM

have no problem with the "touch" buttons but I do have a major problem with not knowing what the volume level of my sub is. Either put an LED display on there (which I think would look ugly) or put the regular volume knob back so I can see at a glance what volume the sub is set at. Have the kids been messing with the buttons? Has the wife turned down the bass like she loves to do? You have no idea of knowing on the DSP-12. And no, the "light blinking faster/slower" is not a solution. It's a very bad implementation.

I completely agree....I recently got a DPS-10 and absolutely HATE this design. I am keeping the sub because it is a vast improvement over my old Polk Audio PSW12, but at least the PSW12 had a knob for volume level. With my H/K AVR635, best results are achieved by setting sub volume at half and then running the EZset. Unfortunately, that blinking light tells me nothing other than the longer I push it, the faster they blink....there is absolutely NO way of knowing true volume. Great sub....bad design on the volume controls. :(

curt c

08-24-05, 03:54 PM

Hi,
Well there is a way of knowing, though not visual. By pressing 1-2-3-4 then 4-3-2-1, the volume resets to "30" then a quick touch on the up or down volume button is "2" up or "2" down. So after reset one touch on the + button would be "32".
We hear your feedback loud and clear and I'm sure new designs will handle the "volume" differently.
Thanks again,
Curt

screxer

08-24-05, 04:01 PM

Oh really? Awesome! so now that I know for sure what each volume press does, I can simply reset it and go from there. Now that I know this info, all things are right again in my little home theater world :D . One question regarding the reset though....I thought manual stated that the reset take it down to 35....does it truly take it down to 35 or does it take it to 30 like you have stated?

curt c

08-24-05, 04:01 PM

Curt,

Is anyone taking pre-orders for the SMS-1 yet? Is
there anyplace that will get these before others?

Thanks,

Tony

Hi Tony,
We hope to be shipping the first week of October. We are not currently taking orders and there should be plenty of SMS-1's to go around once we're in production. Hang in there, this unit is unlike anything on the market and we're getting close.
Curt

Cap'n Dave

08-24-05, 06:17 PM

Ahoy!

I am very pleased to have found this forum, and this is my first post.

I own a vintage Velodyne ULD-15 Series II subwoofer that has served me faithfully until fairly recently. It used to handle anything I could throw at it. Now it will sometimes emits a loud “pop” then shut down for several seconds when there is sudden low bass. Examples that will break it up are cannons in Telarc’s 1812 Overture, or any movie with explosions. I noticed that when the system is turned on but with no signal, if I twisted the RCA feedback loop cable at the speaker end there would be some scratching sounds emitted from the woofer. Thinking it may be a vibration issue with the RCA plug, I opened it up to check it out. Everything looked fine, but since the RCA female receptacle is sealed and just to be sure, I cut off one end of an RCA cable and hard soldered the leads to the controller board. I figured that would do the trick, but once reassembled and tested, it behaved exactly the same. It sounds just fine at moderate sound levels, but hey, I don’t have a Velodyne sub for moderate sound levels! I am not in a financial situation where I can replace the system with something newer, besides, the ULD-15 is highly regarded even compared to the new stuff. I am sure hoping a reasonable repair is possible.

Just for info, the sub amplifier/controller is connected with a Y connector to the sub output of a Technics SH-AC500D Digital Dolby/DTS decoder. Mains are North Creek Ikemo’s (set to “small” on the decoder) driven by an Adcom GFA-555 II amplifier.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cap'n Dave

curt c

08-24-05, 06:44 PM

Hi Dave,
I suggest you contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. We still service the ULD-15's unless the driver is bad. Actually the ULD's were not real loud players and "moderate" probably does apply to it's loudness capabilities. They are extremly accurate. The 1812 overture cannon shots can strain many subwoofers and I can understand these and the explosions causing problems for the ULD-15. If the room is large or opens into other rooms you don't have enough subwoofer for those sound effects. If it handled these effects satisfactorily in the same room before perhaps service will take care of the problem. If you need more information please call me direct at (480) 595-7141.
Thanks,
Curt

UnknownShadow

08-25-05, 07:29 AM

Hi,
We hear your feedback loud and clear and I'm sure new designs will handle the "volume" differently.
Thanks again,
Curt

That is great to hear! I am really looking forward to see if the DPS-12 gets updated or replaced this fall. I am looking for a new sub but cannot hold out much longer.

sprakash

08-25-05, 10:24 AM

Hi.
I've had a DD12 for about 3 months now and the self-eq give a wonderful sound when placed between the LF and center speakers.
I have noticed when I power it down by the remote power off button, the sub makes a moderate, but distinct 'click' everytime.
It has done this from day one.
Is this normal or should I get it to the dealer for a look.
Thanks,
SP

tonydeluce

08-25-05, 11:22 AM

Hi Tony,
We hope to be shipping the first week of October. We are not currently taking orders and there should be plenty of SMS-1's to go around once we're in production. Hang in there, this unit is unlike anything on the market and we're getting close.
Curt

Thanks Curt!

There was some talk in the Velodyne EQ thread about a possible "group"
buy. Is it possible that Velodyne in conjuntion with AVS will offer a
"group" buy on the SMS-1 for AVS forum members?

Thanks again!

-Tony

D. Saint

08-25-05, 11:49 AM

Sprakash,

I would not be at all alarmed by the sound you're hearing, it may be related to the volume setting at which you have the sub set.
Instead of manually turning the sub off via the handheld remote after each use, purhaps you should consider allowing the unit to simply go into standby on it's own. The system can be set to go into standby (off) when it stops receiving a signal, the process takes @ 15 minutes.
Another option you have is to trigger the unit on/off via a 12V trigger if your recieved or pre/pro supports that feature.

Cap'n Dave

08-25-05, 01:07 PM

Curt,

Thanks so much for the immediate reply! After reading more forum posts and running some cubic foot estimates of my present listening environment, I have concluded I am simply under-subbed as you suggested. I didn’t realize the amp had an internal thermal protection circuit, and I am nearly certain that is what is happening. I think I will try relocating the sub to a more reinforcing corner location, turn it down accordingly, and buy some Texas lottery tickets. I must say I am very impressed with official Velodyne support of this forum, and will definitely upgrade with Velodyne the day after my lottery win!

Cap’n Dave

curt c

08-25-05, 01:47 PM

Thanks Curt!

There was some talk in the Velodyne EQ thread about a possible "group"
buy. Is it possible that Velodyne in conjuntion with AVS will offer a
"group" buy on the SMS-1 for AVS forum members?

Thanks again!

-Tony

Hi Tony,
No idea where that "talk" came from, certainly not Velodyne. The SMS-1 will be available from Velodyne dealers. The price has not been finalized but considering it's capabilities and features it will be one of the great bargains in audio.
Thanks,
Curt

curt c

08-25-05, 01:49 PM

EEBuckeye

08-26-05, 07:20 AM

Any reviews of the SPL-1200R? Is it still really just considered for small to medium rooms?

curt c

08-26-05, 11:30 AM

Hi,
There is a review in the works, should be done in a couple of weeks. The SPL-1200R works best in small and medium rooms to about 3000 cubic feet.
Curt

Dr.Evil

08-26-05, 07:26 PM

Curt-

I forwared this message to your service department a few days ago as you requested, and got no response, so I thought I might get some answers here. Here goes:

We recently acquired a model HGS-10 GB in non-working
order. We found a blown fuse, which we replaced with
the correct 12A Slo-Blow. The sub now powers up,
however it is giving some feedback with no input
hooked up, and with input the sound quality is poor
and intermittent.

We checked the driver and noticed that the cone does
not move at all front or back when carefully pressed
on. Should the cone move like a standard subwoofer or
is this normal for the unit?

Also, we measured the DC resistance of the driver and
got 2.5 Ohms. Is this correct?

I also noticed a "smoked" smell comming from inside the sub
enclosure. Not from the amp plannel, but from the sub itself
somewhere.

Please let me know what the problem might be, as we
would really like to see what this first class
subwoofer is capable of.

Thank you for your time.

Anyone from Velodyne or anyone else that might know please post up some possiable problems/solutions.

theranman

08-26-05, 08:49 PM

When the sub is off, the cone is somewhat flexible. When on, the cone becomes tight as a drum as a result of the servo clamping down on it. Smoke is not normal.

D. Saint

08-28-05, 03:52 AM

Dr. Evil,

Sounds as if the HGS-10 you've acquired has some serious issues.
I would suggest you consider at a minimum sending the amplifier assy. from the subwoofer into the factory for service.
As theranman suggested the cone of the woofer can be rather rigid when the unit is powered up and the servo is engaged. However even in a powered down state the driver on an HGS-10/12 can be a bit more rigid then the average conventional driver you may be accustomed to.
If you don't feel any rubbing when depressing the cone, I would not be too concerned about the health of the driver. If however you discover that when the unit is powered down you still cannot move the cone at all, then I would consider that a clear indication that it too has issues.
If this unit was shipped to you while in the acquisition phase, it may have been dropped while in transit.
If you'd like to give me a call on Monday I'll be happy to assist.

D. Saint

08-28-05, 04:14 AM

UnknownShadow

08-28-05, 03:48 PM

DPS & DLS-R product users,
In addition on later releases of this product the front panel LED will give you a visual indication of the volume, here's how it works.

Hopefully this is just a "workaround" until the DPS10/12 replacements come out. This useless "morse code" method to determine the sub volume is simply annoying. VERY annoying! So when you say "later releases" I really hope you mean later releases of the DPS10 and DPS12 only. When Velo comes out with new subs to replace this series (or updated versions of this series) I will be seriously disappointed if I see this pathetic volume control again. Anything other than a normal volume control knob will have me buying a different brand of sub.

sprakash

08-28-05, 05:46 PM

Thanks D. Saint.
I will try and use the trigger to tie it to my pre-pro.
SP

JimP

08-29-05, 08:54 AM

I have a velodyne HGS-15 that is positioned next to my TV stand (which is mostly open) and away from a room corner (no corner loading), but I've been wondering if raising it a few inches (maybe 8") off of the floor would do anything to improve the sound from it.

My reason for asking is that I recently purchased a Atlantic Technology 8200 center channel (large pair of twin 8" woofers) and by moving it off of the floor by 8" the sound definately improved. Less boomy low frequencies. So I started thinking "if raising the CC by 8" improved the sound from it, what else can I get off of the floor." Bingo, the Velodyne.

curt c

08-29-05, 06:58 PM

Hi,
Generally raising the subwoofer off the floor reduces the low bass output. Woofers like boundaries. Nothing wrong with experimenting though.
Curt

Halfrican

08-30-05, 02:14 AM

Hello all,

Just joined the Velodyne family with my purchase of a DD15 last week. Replaced a SVS PB12plus/2 and can only say that i'll likely never look back! DD15 is far superior IMHO to the SVS in musicality, and blends better with my mains (Polk LSI15). I probably gave up some of the "scary loud" SPL that the SVS was capable of (and I was rarely able to take advantage of due to WAF) but I think I can live with that until I get a larger listening room (and a second DD15!).

:( Unfortunately, my DD15 appears to "issues". Multiple times during experimination with placement and equalization, I have had what appears to be a software "crash" that causes the remote to stop responding and the sub to emit very loud "pops" and other nasty noises anytime I attempt to use the remote. Only way to exit the setup at this point is to power the sub down with the switch on back. Upon restarting the sub all appears to be well, except for the loss of all the settings I just tinkered with. I have never had the sub emit these noises or the remote stop responding during normal operation, only in the setup screens.

Very concerned that damage to the amp and/or driver is going to occur, and was hoping someone would have some insight into what might be causing this other than a faulty amp?

Planning to call Velodyne in the morning to get their input, but was hoping someone else might have had a similar experience and already found a workaround. Really not looking forward to taking sub back to my dealer and waiting a month for it to be fixed (average turn-around time in my experience).

:o Thanks in advance,

Half

UnknownShadow

08-30-05, 07:47 AM

Hello all,
Just joined the Velodyne family with my purchase of a DD15 last week. Replaced a SVS PB12plus/2 and can only say that i'll likely never look back!
Half

Holy smokes! Someone here actually UPGRADED from an SVS sub! ;-)

It's certainly nice to see a few posts like this to let people know that SVS is not the only sub worth owning.

curt c

08-30-05, 11:15 AM

Halfrican

08-30-05, 01:23 PM

Hi,
Anytime you move the subwoofer, even a little bit, it should be shut off. The servo will react to movement. Could this be the problem?
Otherwise please do call service at (408) 465-2851.
Thanks,
Curt

Hello Curt,

Thanks for the quick reply. I always disconnected all of the connections prior to moving the sub.

I will call the number you listed shortly.

Half

johnner1999

08-30-05, 07:58 PM

Curt -- a while back you and some other fine folks helped me decide to keep my DECO system in favor of a BOSE setup :-) (for that I do thank you)

But the sub module in my deco setup has stopped working and a couple of the dust caps on the sats are peeling slightly :-(

Is there anything you can do for me? I have the serial number if needed.

curt c

08-30-05, 08:23 PM

Hi,
Sorry to hear about your problems with the DECO system. Please call our service dept. (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com. They will take care of you.
Curt

Dozer42

09-02-05, 05:07 PM

Can someone give me a link to a good sub placement thread? I'm just finalizing my new HT room and adding a DLS-5000R sub, details are as follows:

Room is 12' wide, 22' long including the stairs at the back, 16' to viewing position/couch, vaulted ceilings going from 10' at screen to 20' at the back of room.

Main speakers are Klipsch KLF-30s, 35dB rolloff
Center is a Klipsch RC-7
Surrounds are Klipsch RS-7s
Might add another pair of surrounds for 7.1 sound later.
Amp will be a Denon AVR-4306 when released, Sony STR-DB930 for now.

My question is, where should the sub be placed for best effect? Room size is approximately 4000sq-ft, so the DLS-5000R should be more than enough, if not, I'll add a second one. (The kitchen area would add to room volume somewhat, but I'm not too worried about that).

Click the link for a gif of about what the room looks like, not 100% to scale.

http://www.dozer.com/htroom.gif

P.S. One other minor question, Velodyne's site lists this sub as being 83lbs, but they guys I just bought it from have a weight of 69lbs on the UPS tracking. Big difference!

curt c

09-02-05, 06:05 PM

Hi,
Your best bet will probably be on the front wall, but you may need to experiment. There is no magic formula for a room like yours. The difference in weight has to do with the new DLS -5000R having a class "D" amp which weighs less than the previous CHT-15 which had a class "AB" amp. The high-tech "D" design does not have the heavy transformers of the "AB" design so we need to correct the weight for the new design.
Thanks,
Curt

Trigger445

09-11-05, 06:35 PM

Hi Curt,
Thanks for the great info. I just bought an HGS-12X, but couldn't find in here if I should use a "Y" connector to split the input on the HGS-12X or not. Saw in here that you do for many of your other subs, and you don't for some, just wondered about the HGS-12X. Thanks.
John

PS, if it matters, using the sub out jack off the back of a Onkyo receiver.

curt c

09-11-05, 07:43 PM

Trigger445

09-11-05, 10:42 PM

Thanks for the quick response, Curt. The sub is outstanding; it replaced a JBL PB-12. Your support here is outstanding too.
John

BruceHall

09-11-05, 11:57 PM

Hello all,

:( Unfortunately, my DD15 appears to "issues". Multiple times during experimination with placement and equalization, I have had what appears to be a software "crash" that causes the remote to stop responding and the sub to emit very loud "pops" and other nasty noises anytime I attempt to use the remote. Only way to exit the setup at this point is to power the sub down with the switch on back. Upon restarting the sub all appears to be well, except for the loss of all the settings I just tinkered with. I have never had the sub emit these noises or the remote stop responding during normal operation, only in the setup screens.

Very concerned that damage to the amp and/or driver is going to occur, and was hoping someone would have some insight into what might be causing this other than a faulty amp?

Planning to call Velodyne in the morning to get their input, but was hoping someone else might have had a similar experience and already found a workaround. Really not looking forward to taking sub back to my dealer and waiting a month for it to be fixed (average turn-around time in my experience).

:o Thanks in advance,

Half

Hi Half,
If I'm right you have discovered a bug in the 2.0 software. If it's the bug I suspect you used the Auto-EQ function, and while it was auto-EQing you pressed TEST to return to the settings screen, then by moving around on the setting screen the popping started. If so, this is the bug we have seen. To avoid the problem, simply press SELECT to return to MANUAL EQ mode before pressing TEST to return to the settings screen. This avoids the bug.

We have a new release of the software (2.1) almost ready to go that addresses the problem, but being at CEDIA we haven't had the chahce to fully qualify it. Look for it this week.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Halfrican

09-12-05, 01:22 AM

Hi Half,
If I'm right you have discovered a bug in the 2.0 software. If it's the bug I suspect you used the Auto-EQ function, and while it was auto-EQing you pressed TEST to return to the settings screen, then by moving around on the setting screen the popping started. If so, this is the bug we have seen. To avoid the problem, simply press SELECT to return to MANUAL EQ mode before pressing TEST to return to the settings screen. This avoids the bug.

We have a new release of the software (2.1) almost ready to go that addresses the problem, but being at CEDIA we haven't had the chahce to fully qualify it. Look for it this week.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Thanks for the tip Bruce, I agree that this is what is causing the issue I am hearing. Glad to hear there is a work-around and a fix coming soon, I look forward to installing it.

You, Dave, and the rest of the Velodyne Team have proven that customer satisfaction is #1 at your company! I work in the retail industry myself, so I understand as well as you do that it's not only selling the best product that counts, standing behind it is equally if not more important.

You have just purchased yourself some VERY vocal free advertising here on AVSforum, and in Alaska. I will let everyone that wants to listen know not only that you build awesome subs, but that you listen to the customer's concerns also. Most companies would immediately try to figure out what I (the consumer) was doing to mess up their (the manufacturer) product. Your team immediately listened to my concern, established it's validity, and rectified the issue, all within about 24 hours! I am impressed to say the least.....

Keep up the good work, you have a customer for many years to come!

Half

iboon

09-12-05, 02:52 AM

Holy smokes! Someone here actually UPGRADED from an SVS sub! ;-)

It's certainly nice to see a few posts like this to let people know that SVS is not the only sub worth owning.

Finally... Could the tide be turning? Could sub purchasers on this site be coming back to the light?

Halfrican

09-12-05, 03:13 AM

Finally... Could the tide be turning? Could sub purchasers on this site be coming back to the light?

Actually, I have to admit, I was sold on the concept of "best value" instead of "best performance". I have owned many "wanna-be" subs over the last 6 years, with a constant quest to get what I have finally achieved with the DD15. It's not that I don't think the "other guys" subs don't offer a wonderful "bang for the buck" but as all Velodyne owners, and now myself know you get what you pay for.

Happy to be part of the Velodyne owners association and look forward to sharing my experiences and learning from others about ways to improve my setup. I am still experimenting with the EQ and just starting to realize the power and flexibility of the software options.

Thanks to all who have provided their insight and support.....

Half :)

Bghead8che

09-12-05, 12:03 PM

Curt or Bruce,

Can you please provide more info on the upcoming 5 mic product? Specifically, how would one EQ five different locations? Secondly, would DD-18 owners need to purchase this unit as a stand alone unit?

Thanks!

-Brian

Jake Sm

09-13-05, 12:56 AM

Actually, I have to admit, I was sold on the concept of "best value" instead of "best performance". I have owned many "wanna-be" subs over the last 6 years, with a constant quest to get what I have finally achieved with the DD15. It's not that I don't think the "other guys" subs don't offer a wonderful "bang for the buck" but as all Velodyne owners, and now myself know you get what you pay for.

Some people will talk about the fact that these subs keep up so well, or integrate with the other speakers, some will marvel at how much they have come to appreciate very low harmonic distortion in their bass, some love the flat EQ that comes from the correction software, but most seem to agree that they are phenomenal.

xenon240

09-13-05, 02:53 PM

tonydeluce

09-13-05, 03:35 PM

hifisponge

09-13-05, 10:40 PM

BruceHall

09-13-05, 11:56 PM

I just purchased a DD15, it came with the 2.0 software, and I noticed the following two problems, hope someone has the asnswer for me:

1. when I turn my sub off with the remote I'll hear a small pop from the sub, should it do this??
2. Starting point - plug Sub into AC, turn switch on at the back, the remote operates normally. Now if I leave it in this mode and let the sub go into sleep mode, the next time I fire up the AV receiver, the sub comes out of sleep mode and the remote works fine.
If, instead of letting the sub go into sleep mode, I manually power off the sub with the remote, the next time I turn my reciever on, the sub does come back from sleep mode (when it senses an audio signal) but any functions on the remote will not work. I then need to press the power button on the remote (here a little pop from the sub) before functions work on the remote.
Is this another bug with 2.0???

Hi Xenon,
1. This is normal and won't hurt the sub.
2. No, again this is normal behavior. When you use the power button to turn off the sub, that is interpreted as you wanting the sub off irregardless of input signal. It is not a forced auto-off condition, otherwise it would not work while music or HT content were playing. The only command the sub responds to while in power-off mode is the power button, unless you power cycle the sub. We'd entertian a discussion on alternate behavior if this is confusing - it's only software.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

p.s. Curt had a family emergency so you'll be seeing more of myself and Dave Santos on the board for a few days...

BruceHall

09-13-05, 11:58 PM

Once I get my SMS-1 and see how flat the response is in my HT, I may
purchase another HGS-15X and stack them. Does Velogyne make or
recommend a stand for this purpose? I would not want it much wider
than the sub and ideally would raise the bottom sub off the floor
a few inches with a few inches between each sub...

No. we don't make a stand. The 1" MDF won't mind being stacked upon, though. I'd put a cloth or some other barrier betwene the subs to protect the finish of the bottom one, though.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

tonydeluce

09-14-05, 12:30 AM

No. we don't make a stand. The 1" MDF won't mind being stacked upon, though. I'd put a cloth or some other barrier betwene the subs to protect the finish of the bottom one, though.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Thanks Bruce!

theranman

09-14-05, 12:34 AM

Sorry Bruce, but that's much too simple a solution. Audiophiles need complexity. Perhaps a one or two inch pneumatic platform with plenum, constrained layer dampening, and low-profile hydraulic legs/high density sorbothane feet.
$3K should just about do it. :)

tonydeluce

09-14-05, 12:36 AM

theranman

09-14-05, 12:40 AM

Stratodynamics Corp. (NYSE:OCD) makes several different models of them. I think their website is stratodyn.com or something like that.

BruceHall

09-14-05, 06:31 AM

Curt, Bruce, and fellow DD owners -

I'd like to get more slam and impact during action movies from my DD15 and I'm wondering which frequency band I could boost in the EQ to make it happen. I get plenty of low end rumble, but I want to feel the initial impact of explosions, crashes, and whatnot. In other words I have plenty of "pants flapping", but I want more "kick to the chest". :D

Cheers,

- Tim

Hi Tim,
No pat answer on this one, but my first answer is to do what you would do when you want more slam from drumbeats, etc. I would try an EQ boost of 5 dB or so around 55 - 60, with a low Q (so the effect is broad around that frequency range). Try it with preset 1, then switch to preset 2 and try the same passage and see if the effect is what you want. You also might want to play with the theater/music setting - my first insticnt here is that the slam will come from accuracy and the servo is lower on preset 1 (theater/music).

Give it a try and let me know how it goes...

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Mike Loiterman

09-14-05, 01:14 PM

Background

Sub is a DD-18
Mains are Paradigm Studio 60s
All speakers are set to small and crossed over at 80
I use a y splitter to connect both inputs on my DD-18

Here are the levels at +0.0 on my pre-amp
http://67.173.128.145/htt/DSCN0968.JPG

Here are the levels at -.5 on my pre-amp
http://67.173.128.145/htt/DSCN0967.JPG

Questions

I have my mains calibrated to 75db via the pre-amp's internal test tones, so I'm not sure why at +0.0 on my amp, the levels are showing an extra .5. Does anyone else know?
I'm using something called the Room Resonance Filter on my Anthem AVM20 and not the DD-18's PEQ. The RRF has the following settings...50 is the middle of the correction, I have a 13db cut and I do it for 15hz. I got a smoother response by doing it way instead of using the DD-18's PEQ.
Is the Room Resonance Filter the same as a PEQ?
Would it be better to use just the DD-18's PEQ and shutoff the AVM20's RRF?
Can I use them together?

Also, one thing that would be nice for future revisons of the software would be to add lines to the graph...just a thought.

hifisponge

09-14-05, 01:53 PM

Hi Tim,
No pat answer on this one, but my first answer is to do what you would do when you want more slam from drumbeats, etc. I would try an EQ boost of 5 dB or so around 55 - 60, with a low Q (so the effect is broad around that frequency range). Try it with preset 1, then switch to preset 2 and try the same passage and see if the effect is what you want. You also might want to play with the theater/music setting - my first insticnt here is that the slam will come from accuracy and the servo is lower on preset 1 (theater/music).

Give it a try and let me know how it goes...

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Thanks, that is just what was looking for. I'm confused by one thing though. You say that you think the slam will come from accuracy, which I would think to mean to use the highest servo setting, but are you suggesting I use a low setting?

xenon240

09-14-05, 02:36 PM

Hi Xenon,
1. This is normal and won't hurt the sub.
2. No, again this is normal behavior. When you use the power button to turn off the sub, that is interpreted as you wanting the sub off irregardless of input signal. It is not a forced auto-off condition, otherwise it would not work while music or HT content were playing. The only command the sub responds to while in power-off mode is the power button, unless you power cycle the sub. We'd entertian a discussion on alternate behavior if this is confusing - it's only software.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

p.s. Curt had a family emergency so you'll be seeing more of myself and Dave Santos on the board for a few days...

Thanks for the reply Bruce, is there then, any difference in power consumption (or sleep modes) if the sub is turned off with remote or if it goes to sleep on its own??

Lasalle

09-14-05, 06:34 PM

BruceHall

09-14-05, 07:35 PM

Thanks for the reply Bruce, is there then, any difference in power consumption (or sleep modes) if the sub is turned off with remote or if it goes to sleep on its own??

No difference - both shut the amp off. Even when running, a DD at idle only draws a few watts.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

hifisponge

09-14-05, 09:37 PM

I have recently purchased two DD-12's and have them daisy chained to a Denon 4806.
Q1) The 4806 has an LFE out so should I turn off the low pass and slope on both subs?
Q2) The manual say set the input to stereo for the set up signal, in a 7.1 system what
playback mode should be selected (ie Dolby Pro IIx, or 7 channel stereo,...)?

I've read the two sub setup procedure its seems to indicate the following:
Start with Master, use position, phase and polarity to reduce peaks (I'm assuming low pass and slope are turned off). Disconnect Master and repeat above with the slave, then run auto-eq, optionally manually adjust. For broad peaks/troughs use lower Q, for narrow
peaks use higher Q setting. Reconnect Master and daisychain to slave. Perform manual eq
as stated above.

Is this correct?

When I run the Denon's Auddssey MultiEQ XT, it significantly lowers the LFE DB (-10DB) and
changes the crossover Freq of the different speakers. I think I need to iterate between the
two setups a couple of times to get the interaction right. Any comments from the gentlemen at Velodyne and/or anyone with a similar setup would be greatly appreciated.

The answer to your first question is yes. Turn off the low pass and slope in the subs because your AVR will handle this.

I don't own a 4806, but I am knowlegeable of the MultiEQ feature and have some experience working with multiple EQs. Honestly, it gets rather complicated and unless you can defeat the EQ on the sub-out in the AVR, it may be simplest to just use the EQ in the AVR. Otherwise the two are going to compete with one another once you run the auto EQ in the AVR. The Denon EQ also allows you to take measurements from multiple points in the room and EQs the averaged response, where as the EQ in the DD, as flexible as it is, only allows you to EQ the sweet spot. There is some debate over which is better, EQing for one spot or taking anaverage, so you we have to decide which you think sounds best.

I don't know how flexible EQ in the Denon is, but to get two subs working right, you would need two sub outs. Otherwise it is going to EQ both of them the same. You don't want this because to point to using two subs is to place them in the room in such a way that one helps fill in the gaps in the response of the othger. I guess you could try hooking up one sub with all of the sub's EQ functions set to 0 or Off and run the auto EQ (in the AVR). After that is done, daisy chain the second sub to the first and this time use the test signal and EQ in the second sub to further smooth out the response.

D. Saint

09-15-05, 10:17 AM

LaSalle,

I must profess I do not know exactly what the Dennon Auddssey MultiEQ XT does, but it sounds like it may be a little more involved then simply setting levels and speaker distances. Perhaps you can shed some light on this for me for future reference.
In answer to your questions and to echo what advice was offered by hifisponge,
I would recommend setting your speaker size to small and the low pass xover on the Velodyne to the same setting as the high pass freq you select on the Dennon for your main speakers (probably 60 or 80HZ). This should keep the speakers & the mains from interfering with each other.
Following the instructions in the DD manual, individually perform the self-EQ function on the subs, then daisy chain them together from the pass-thru jack on the master to the input on the slave.
With regards to your 2nd question regarding what mode to EQ the subs in, I would recommend that you perform the EQ in whatever mode you will most commonly be listening in. If your using the sub for home theater and you'll be listening in 7.1 mode, then EQ in the 7.1 mode. If you will listen to music in a different mode (music surround, etc.) then select one of the two music preset modes on the sub and EQ the sub in that mode. In this manner you can have different EQ curves set for each sub preset and listening mode that your receiver supports.

Hope this helps.

Velodyne Customer Service

Lasalle

09-15-05, 11:49 AM

LaSalle,

I must profess I do not know exactly what the Dennon Audyssey MultiEQ XT does, but it sounds like it may be a little more involved then simply setting levels and speaker distances. Perhaps you can shed some light on this for me for future reference.
In answer to your questions and to echo what advice was offered by hifisponge,
I would recommend setting your speaker size to small and the low pass xover on the Velodyne to the same setting as the high pass freq you select on the Dennon for your main speakers (probably 60 or 80HZ). This should keep the speakers & the mains from interfering with each other.
Following the instructions in the DD manual, individually perform the self-EQ function on the subs, then daisy chain them together from the pass-thru jack on the master to the input on the slave.
With regards to your 2nd question regarding what mode to EQ the subs in, I would recommend that you perform the EQ in whatever mode you will most commonly be listening in. If your using the sub for home theater and you'll be listening in 7.1 mode, then EQ in the 7.1 mode. If you will listen to music in a different mode (music surround, etc.) then select one of the two music preset modes on the sub and EQ the sub in that mode. In this manner you can have different EQ curves set for each sub preset and listening mode that your receiver supports.

Hope this helps.

Velodyne Customer Service

First thank you and hifisponge for your help.

On the daisy chain I may have misunderstood the manual. It seems to say on the master do the set up until you get to the EQ phase, stop, connect the slave separately, perform full setup with auto eq, Then connect the master (daisy chained) and finish the setup on the master using manual EQ (Auto EQ not recommended) . Is this incorrect?

Also the Denon 4806 is THX Ultra2 compliant, do the settings on p49 (for the DD-15,and DD-18) apply to the DD-12?

Audyssey MultiEQ XT, is a set of room correlation algorithms written by Audyssey
labs (www.Audyssey.com) and licenced by denon. It performs sampling from upto 8 locations and checks polarity, distance etc, then sets speaker levels, EQ's upto 7 speakers, sets the crossover freq. for each speaker and the sub, then preforms some time domain adjustments to compensate for room reflections. It produces a nice open sound but it gets the sub level wrong (too low). It seems to EQ the sub
by EQing the speakers below the crossover point (63HZ). After the Audyssey set up you can manually adjust speaker/sub distance,level, and crossover but not EQ.

hifisponge

09-15-05, 06:33 PM

First thank you and hifisponge for your help.

On the daisy chain I may have misunderstood the manual. It seems to say on the master do the set up until you get to the EQ phase, stop, connect the slave separately, perform full setup with auto eq, Then connect the master (daisy chained) and finish the setup on the master using manual EQ (Auto EQ not recommended) . Is this incorrect?

Also the Denon 4806 is THX Ultra2 compliant, do the settings on p49 (for the DD-15,and DD-18) apply to the DD-12?

I would go with the set-up procedure you desrcibe above rather than EQing both of the subs separately. By EQing the master when it is connected to the slave you should end up with less need to boost frequencies, which will give you more headroom in the master sub. However, if you want to take even more of a perfectionist approach, and get the max headroom in both subs, I would do this:

* Start with the master and use position, phase and polarity to get the response as smooth as you can. Then take a picture of the graph for future reference.
* Connect the slave separately and do the same as the rest in the step above.
*Connect the slave to the master and run the test signal again to view the summed response.
*Finally, with both subs connected, EQ each sub separately based on their individual contribution to the summed response. For instance, lets say you have a 5db peak at 40Hz in the summed response. You would look at the pictures you took of the response graph for each sub to see which of the two was causing the peak, then you would put in a -5db filter at 40hz for just that sub. However it works just the opposite for a dip in response. In other words, if the response is -5db at 40hz, you would boost the response of the sub without a dip at that frequency. The reason for this is that dips in response are typically the result of a cancellation and no matter how much you attempt to boost it, the response at that frequency will continue to cancel its self out.

You may find that you end up with dips in the summed response caused by the interaction between the two subs. That is, those dips aren't in the individual response of either sub. The only way to solve this is to move the subs or the listening location.

Let me know if any of that wasn't clear. It's not the easiest to explain.

Best of luck,

- Tim

Lasalle

09-16-05, 12:16 AM

I would go with the set-up procedure you desrcibe above rather than EQing both of the subs separately. By EQing the master when it is connected to the slave you should end up with little need to boost frequencies, which will give you more headroom in that sub. However, if you want to take even more of a perfectionist approach I would do this:

* Start with the master and use position, phase and polarity to get the response as smooth as you can. Then take a picture of the graph for future reference.
* Connect the slave separately and do the same as the rest in the step above.
*Connect the slave to the master and run the test signal again to view the summed response.
*Finally, with both subs connected, EQ each sub separately based on their individual contribution to the summed response. For instance, lets say you have a 5db peak at 40Hz in the summed response. You would look at the pictures you took of the response graph for each sub to see which of the two was causing the peak, then you would put in a -5db filter at 40hz for just that sub. However it works just the opposite for a dip in response. In other words, if the response is -5db at 40hz, you would boost the response of the sub without a dip at that frequency. The reason for this is that dips in response are typically the result of a cancellation and no matter how much you attempt to boost it, the response at that frequency will continue to cancel its self out.

You may find that you end up with dips in the summed response caused by the interaction between the two subs. That is, those dips aren't in the individual response of either sub. The only way to solve this is to move the subs or the listening location.

Let me know if any of that wasn't clear. It's not the easiest to explain.

Best of luck,

- Tim

Thanks again. The second iteration worked much better. I got smoother response
curves on the daisy chained Subs, then the Audyssey nailed it on the Auto-setup.
All the channel outputs were within 2db of the Sub (which it set a little higher than the rest). Most important the sound is much better, still very open in the mids and
highs, but now warmer in the mid-bass and strong deep bass.
Thanks again

hifisponge

09-16-05, 02:38 PM

Thanks again. The second iteration worked much better. I got smoother response
curves on the daisy chained Subs, then the Audyssey nailed it on the Auto-setup.
All the channel outputs were within 2db of the Sub (which it set a little higher than the rest). Most important the sound is much better, still very open in the mids and
highs, but now warmer in the mid-bass and strong deep bass.
Thanks again

Glad to hear that things worked out in the end. When you say the second iteration worked better, do you mean the second process I suggested, or was it that simply running the auto EQ on the Denon worked better the second time you tried it?

scottielee

09-16-05, 02:44 PM

Lasalle

09-16-05, 03:36 PM

Glad to hear that things worked out in the end. When you say the second iteration worked better, do you mean the second process I suggested, or was it that simply running the auto EQ on the Denon worked better the second time you tried it?

I re-tuned the subwoofer using the approach in the notes above with the speakers that were MultiEQ'd by the Denon using the Audyssey setting and my most used
playback mode. Then I re-ran the Denon's Auto-setup (Audssey). Then I went back to the DD-12's and adjusted the Contour settings on the 2 pre-sets I use. The results were very good. My placement options were limited so I could not get the
phase and polarity settings to cancel out each others peaks (slave/master), but I had no major Troughs to deal with.

hifisponge

09-16-05, 08:15 PM

hi,
i was told by an audio dealer to raise my dd-12 off the floor by 20 inches to achieve better impact/punch and smoother blend with my mains. is this setup worth searching and paying for a sturdy stand? are there any high quality subwoofer stands available?
any experience shared will be greatly appreciated.
thanks!
scott

Bass sound quality is largely dictated by the dimensions of the room the sub is in, the location of the sub, its proximity to room boundaries (walls), and listener location. Raising the sub changes the proximity of the sub to the floor, so it can have an affect on the sound, but whether that equates to an improvement in sound quality really depends on the in-room frequency response of the sub to begin with. Theoretically though, all that raising the sub would do is weaken the upper-bass response (80-100Hz). You could achieve the same results by moving the sub further out from the corner along one wall.

With that said, I would find something that you could safely rest the sub on to see if you hear a difference. If you do, and you like what you hear, then make or buy a permanent stand. If you have wood subfloors, you may also find a slight improvement in sound quality by raising the sub, because it may reduce the level of vibration the sub is inflicting on floor. In this case the stand doesn't need to be 20" tall though.

Hope that helps.

- Tim

TimV

09-17-05, 07:58 PM

Kevin12586

09-18-05, 03:43 PM

DPS & DLS-R product users,

These units ship from the factory with the volume preset to "30" with the maximum setting being "100". This is the recommended volume setting for the subwoofer during normal use. If more output is desired we recommend raising the reciever or Pre/Pro subwoofer (LFE) output level. In addition on later releases of this product the front panel LED will give you a visual indication of the volume, here's how it works. Assume for a moment that the unit volume is set at "32" and your raise the volume by depressing the "+" button 3 times. If you look carefully the LED will blink 3 times slowly, to represent the first number of the volume setting (ten's digit), followed by 5 rapid blinks to represent the second digit (one's digit) or "35". Hope this helps.

I have a DLS-5000R and tried using the method above to find out where my volume is currently set, the problem is that the led is blinking too fast to tell. I don't get the 'tens' blinking slowly, just a bunch of rapid blinks.

How can I tell where my volume is? I don't want to have to reset my system as I like how it sounds right now.

Thanks

BruceHall

09-18-05, 11:44 PM

I have a DLS-5000R and tried using the method above to find out where my volume is currently set, the problem is that the led is blinking too fast to tell. I don't get the 'tens' blinking slowly, just a bunch of rapid blinks.

How can I tell where my volume is? I don't want to have to reset my system as I like how it sounds right now.

Thanks

Hi Kevin,
Your volume might be under 10. If it were, say, 8, you'd see 8 shorter blinks. You can test this by raising the volume a little more and see if you get to one long blink (meaning 10).

It's not uncommon to drop down below 10 if you have a strong input signal from your pre/pro.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

screxer

09-19-05, 01:58 PM

Okay, now I'm a little confused on my DPS. What is considered a new DPS with the blinking lights that indicate volume level? Per the information provided here, I reset the sub and then pushed the volume button once for each 2 point gain (i.e. starts at 30, press once, goes to 32, etc.). The blinking light on my DPS10 does not indicate anything more than a faster blinking light (in fact, the number of blinks don't change either).

hjw

09-19-05, 09:10 PM

An answer to the question TimV asked please. :)

curt c

09-19-05, 11:29 PM

I've got a couple of questions regarding Velodyne subs and this seemed to be the best place to ask them.

First, what are the differences between the HGS Series I, II, and X subs?

Second, I was wondering if I could get some input on subwoofer choice and placement for the room described in the following thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=576598

I plan to have preferably one sub (maybe two, if necessary) connected through an SMS-1. I was thinking of a used HGS-15 SII (I already have an HGS-10 SII that I like a lot, but won't be enough for this room).

Would a single HGS-15 placed near the seating position be adequate? What about placing one (or two) up on the ledge (as described in the other thread)?

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Tim,
The new design high tech driver with tandem voice coil and the revolutionary class D amp were first introduced in the F-1800RII. That subwoofer with an upgrade in power became the FSR-18. This technology was the basis for the HGS series which was offered in a ten, twelve, fifteen and eighteen inch version. The cabinet finish was black acrylic. The first series were designated HGS (there never was a HGS series I). During the next few years as with most amplifier companies,
we made updates to the amplifiers, primarily addressing reliability and noise issues which only seemed to occur in certain environments. We also changed the cone material to a kevlar composite. Once we felt the amplifier issues were addressed we renamed the product HGS-II. Later, after certification, the HGS-15II and HGS-18II were renamed HGS-15THX and HGS-18THX. Shortly thereafter we introduced the DD series. At that time we thought we would discontinue the HGS series all together. Upon request, primarily from the Custom Installers we brought back the HGS as the HGS-X series. The HGS-X series differs from the previous series by the finish being black wood grain instead of black gloss. All HGS subwoofers have servo feedback technology. All HGS subwoofers are designated as to their model on the label.
Tim, I wish I could offer you some magic formula on your room situation. As stated on the other thread, it would almost have to be trial and error. IMO, you will need at least two eighteen inch subwoofers. Great rooms are very difficult to work with and they generally open into other rooms and that's where the bass goes. I would prewire for several possible locations.
Any input from those who have dealt with similar room situations is welcome.
Curt

Kevin12586

09-20-05, 12:27 AM

JimP

09-20-05, 01:16 AM

I think my Velodyne HGS-15 just died.

The blue light on the front is flashing and there is no sound coming from the sub.

Any suggestions??

phantom52

09-20-05, 08:21 AM

I just purchased the DLS-4000R and am having the same problem with the volume settings. Nothing I have tried has worked. No single blinks to designate a "ten" setting, just very fast blinking on all volume settings. Have run out of things to try. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. If you think it blinks fast now just crank it up all the way and it will show fast. Have reset this thing dozens of times and no change.

curt c

09-20-05, 09:12 AM

I think my Velodyne HGS-15 just died.

The blue light on the front is flashing and there is no sound coming from the sub.

Any suggestions??

Hi,
You should turn the unit off and unplug it for fifteen seconds. If it continues to blink with no sound, contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or call 408-465-2851.
Curt

curt c

09-20-05, 09:23 AM

TimV

09-20-05, 01:12 PM

Curt,

Thanks a lot for the clarification on you HGS lines. That's very helpful

Also, thanks a lot for the feedback regarding my room. It is very much appreciated.

I was hoping somone might have a "magic answer", but it seems like your suggestion of trial and error will be the way to go. Thanks again.

Kenrosencpa

09-21-05, 09:56 AM

I just got a 1200r and I want to run a RTA on it. What setting will yeld the flatest response? Jazz-Classical?
thanks

curt c

09-21-05, 10:00 AM

Hi Ken,
Yes Jazz/Classical (#3) is the flat response setting.
Curt

JimP

09-21-05, 10:15 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP
I think my Velodyne HGS-15 just died.

The blue light on the front is flashing and there is no sound coming from the sub.

Any suggestions??

Hi,
You should turn the unit off and unplug it for fifteen seconds. If it continues to blink with no sound, contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or call 408-465-2851.
Curt

Curt, thanks for responding. Did as suggested and blue light wouldn't come on. Removed amplifier, tested ceramic fuse and found it bad. Replaced fused and its back working. Since it worked fine for 8-10 hrs. yesterday, should I be concerned that something else is wrong??

curt c

09-21-05, 10:26 AM

Hi,
I would assume that anything wrong would reappear in 8-10 hours. If the fuse goes bad again, contact service and send the amp in.
Curt

Kenrosencpa

09-21-05, 05:02 PM

Hi Ken,
Yes Jazz/Classical (#3) is the flat response setting.
Curt
thanks

Halfrican

09-23-05, 08:18 PM

curt c

09-23-05, 10:21 PM

Hello All,

Just curious about what might be the best solution to bass managment in my current setup.

My system's pre-pro is an Anthem AVM20, which has multiple settings in it's bass managment.

My question is in regards to optinum configuration of the HP/LP filters. My understanding is that the "THX" crossover setting of the pre-pro is 12db HP/24db LP which is designed to be used with speakers that have a mechanical roll-off of 12db/octave @ 80hz. My speakers however do not have this type of "built-in" rolloff. As I understand, it would be optimum in my setup to have the choice of a 24db/octave HP filter/24db/octave LP filter, but my pre-pro does not (currently) have the option to select the slope of the filters. However, it does have the option to by-pass the LP filter and send a full-range signal through the sub-out.

I don't know that using the "full-range" output of the pre-pro and allowing the DD15 to handle the LP filtering would be beneficial as the main issue would be to have a steeper slope on the HP filter.

Any recommendations as to what might be best to experiment with? Are there any advantages to using the built-in crossover of the DD15 over the pre-pro's filters?

Thanks,

half

Hi,
In general a 12db high pass filter works well in conjunction with a 24db low pass filter. That's why Anthem offers it. You didn't mentioned what speakers you have. Most small two way bookshelf speakers in a sealed box will indeed have a mechanical roll off at about 80hz. Larger sealed boxes will have the same roll off but at a lower frequency. If your speakers are ported they will have a rapid roll off right below frequency tuning of the port. The high pass filter in the Velodyne is 6db at 80hz. In certain situations a 24db high pass slope might work better and some processors may offer that. Since you're looking for a steeper slope high pass I would use the Anthem. The visual signal sweep of the DD-15 will show you how the sub is integrating at crossover point.
Curt

Halfrican

09-24-05, 12:22 AM

Hi,
In general a 12db high pass filter works well in conjunction with a 24db low pass filter. That's why Anthem offers it. You didn't mentioned what speakers you have. Most small two way bookshelf speakers in a sealed box will indeed have a mechanical roll off at about 80hz. Larger sealed boxes will have the same roll off but at a lower frequency. If your speakers are ported they will have a rapid roll off right below frequency tuning of the port. The high pass filter in the Velodyne is 6db at 80hz. In certain situations a 24db high pass slope might work better and some processors may offer that. Since you're looking for a steeper slope high pass I would use the Anthem. The visual signal sweep of the DD-15 will show you how the sub is integrating at crossover point.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the quick reply. Sorry for the lack of info on my speaker setup, I am currently using the Polk LSI9, LSIC, LSIFX, LSI7 setup along with my DD15. The Polks are all ported speakers with a -3db point of about 50hz (+/-). With the 12db rolloff of the Anthem's pre-out I am finding that all of the speakers still have quite a bit of output down to about 40hz, where they roll-off quickly.

I have read a couple of articles on bass managment lately that indicate that ideally a 24db/octave HP slope might be more appropriate for my application. It's not that I don't like the current sound of my system, but I was wondering if there was anything else I could do to enhance it.

I emailed Anthem earlier today, they indicated that variable slopes are definitely on the list of "things to do" in the near future.

Thanks again,

Half

Mike Loiterman

09-26-05, 04:25 PM

Halfrican

09-26-05, 08:53 PM

Halfrican:

I have the AVM20 and a DD18.

What are you speaker settings...I would like to optimize my setup as well.

I have Paradigm Studio 60s for fronts and Studio 20's for surrounds.

I have all speakers set to small and advanced settings turned off...in the AVM20.

I use the Room Resonance filter on my AVM20, but just adjust levels on the DD18. I leave the PEQ on the DD18 with standard settings. I was able to obtain smoother response this way.

Mike,

My system consists of the following:

AVM20
Integra Research RDA7
Polk LSI9's
polk LSIC
Polk LSIFX
Polk LSI7's

Have all speakers set to small (80hz) and am using the sub's eq with good success, except for a large dip in the system response at about 110hz, but I think that is something that I can resolve with sub placement.

The DD's eq is FAR more advanced than the resonance filter in the AVM.

Half

Kevin12586

09-27-05, 10:46 PM

Hi Kevin,
Your volume might be under 10. If it were, say, 8, you'd see 8 shorter blinks. You can test this by raising the volume a little more and see if you get to one long blink (meaning 10).

It's not uncommon to drop down below 10 if you have a strong input signal from your pre/pro.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

I reset the sub and it gave me 3 slow blinks (volume at 30), but as I continued to increase the volume, I never got 4 short blinks (volume at 40) or 5 short blinks (volume at 50). My sub is currently set at 50, but I wouldn't be able to tell this by the number of blinks.

How can this be?

curt c

09-27-05, 11:31 PM

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt (480) 595-7141

JohnGZ28

09-29-05, 09:51 PM

With the 1200R is there a way to turn the presets off and on without a complete reset? The manual does not appear to address this.

curt c

09-29-05, 10:26 PM

JohnGZ28

09-30-05, 09:35 AM

Hi,
I'm not sure I understand the question. All four presets are selected by the hand held remote. If you want flat response (as in no preset), that is preset #3, which is labeled jazz/classical. Reset does not eliminate the presets, they are in permanent memory. Reset will take you to factory defaults, which are; volume-30, no equalization, and preset #3. If you want to eliminate the last (auto) equalization, you could (auto) equalize again or do a reset.
Hope this helps.
Curt

Thanks for the reply Curt.

Let's say I just completed the auto EQ of my sub and I put in U-571 to watch. I watch the movie as is until the famous chapter 15 hits. Now I want to engage the "movie" mode of the 1200R. After chapter 15 is over I want to "turn" movie mode off to go back to the way it was. Will hitting #3 take me back to pre movie mode?

curt c

09-30-05, 10:27 AM

John,
Yes it will.
Curt

SRT-10 Viper

10-02-05, 10:55 PM

theranman

10-03-05, 10:58 AM

Here' some perspective...

My room is just about the same size, perhaps a bit bigger when taking the openings into the kitchen and hallway into account. I have a DD-10 and it serves me VERY well for both movies and music. No, it won't rattle the room, but it's definitely "good enough". Then again, I live in a condo building with neighbors on all sides (except one, of course).

I will admit, I do sometimes ponder the notion of adding another DD-10 to smooth things out, or perhaps even replacing the DD-10 with a DD-12...not so much for more boom, but moreso to know that I'd "have enough" when I move to another larger room. In addition, since once in a while I see the DD-10's driver flapping about, I think a DD-12 would absolutely remove ANY strain at the levels I listen at. Not in a rush to upsize just yet, and it's been almost a year with the DD-10.

Ran

curt c

10-03-05, 11:25 AM

I have B&W: 800D fronts, N802 rear, HTM2D center, and Velodyne DD12. For HT, I have a Denon 5085, Clasee CAM/350s amp for the front 2 channels. I also have the Classe CP500 for 2Ch (has HT passthru). I have a Denon 3910 for CD/DVD player. My room is 24X16X8h. Everytime I post my system in the B&W forum people tell me the DD12 is not a match to my system from a performance standpoint and I should go with the DD18. Is the difference that significant? I can shake my room easilty with the DD12 and have my wife tell me to turn it down. Am I missing something here?

Here is a ruff ruff view of the room:

Hi,
If you had come to me for a recommendation, based on your speakers and room size, I would have recommended the DD-15 or DD-18. One of the reasons many people say you made the wrong choice is you have more woofer mass in each of your speakers than your subwoofer. Also based on your room size the DD-12 is operating near it's limit. The DD-15 or DD-18 would provide deeper extension and much more reserve.
So you ask are you missing something here. Hard to tell. The additional extension would not be audible but would be felt at times. If you're satisfied with your systems performance, that's all that matters.
Curt

mmatty

10-04-05, 02:18 PM

Hi:

Earlier today I sent an email to Velodyne, but a posting here would possibly benefit a broader audience.

I have two ULD 15 Series II subs that I would like to adjust the crossover level on. A search of Google led me to several other people looking do do the same, but no answer. Upon opening the amp, I see a board for the xover, but no readily apparent way to adjust (according to the manual, your dealer can do it in a few minutes)....I would like to go from 85 hz to 100 hz.

I see a line of resistors marked ABCD etc. Is a change done by removing one (which one(s)?) Or is something else required?

Thanks,

Mike

curt c

10-04-05, 02:37 PM

Mike,
Contact Velodyne service; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. They can do the modification or provide you with instructions. Please send or have the S/N of your ULD.
Thanks,
Curt

kjohn

10-04-05, 09:50 PM

So any word on the SMS-1 ?

curt c

10-04-05, 11:29 PM

KJ,
Assuming all goes well, dealers who have placed orders should have the SMS-1 by the end of October.
Curt

kjohn

10-05-05, 10:07 AM

Thanks for the response curt my my million dollar ? I have been reading and angonizing over a new sub purchase for months now I was going to go SVS then thought HSU VTF-3 mkII, now I am seriously considering the Velodyne DLS-R 5000 any thoughs on how this sub compares to the other internet brands as I don't have a dealer for any of them near me they are all a blind purchase your help would be greatly appreciated.

curt c

10-05-05, 11:16 AM

Hi,
The DLS-5000R has features that no competitor in its class offers. I can't over state the advantages of the DSP technology which enables you to fine tune the subwoofer from your listening position with a hand held remote. Just being able to adjust the volume in a couple of seconds without having to walk back and forth to the subwoofer is fantastic. Once you use it, you'll wonder how you managed the other way. Utilizing the presets you can switch from music to the movie mode with the push of a button.
The DLS-5000R has a version of the SPL amplifier. IMO the Velodyne Class-D amplifiers are the best subwoofer amps in the world.
Am I excited about the DLS-5000R? You bet. When my friends and relatives (on a budget) come to me for a recommendation, I always say "get the DLS-5000R". It's the 'the bang for the buck' winner. Also it's a Velodyne and for those of us who work here, that means a lot.
Good Luck,
Curt

Lasalle

10-05-05, 11:42 AM

kjohn

10-05-05, 02:44 PM

Thanks Curt I am purchasing three of them and a SMS-1 is there a way to disable the DSP as to not cause confusion with the pocessing of the SMS-1 ?

curt c

10-05-05, 02:54 PM

Hi,
Yes you would just use preset #3 and leave the volume at factory setting. You can do a reset to accomplish that. Wow, three of them - you'll be pushing some air.
Curt

kjohn

10-05-05, 04:26 PM

Halfrican

10-05-05, 10:21 PM

I know that's what most people say but I am not using three for volume as the room is only 13.5x25x8 but to get a smooth response in the room. Now I know I could buy one DD-18 but then I would have to look like a baby crawling on the floor looking for the best position. I figure I would put one in every position I might have to move it :D I have three def tech PF15+'s now but as all of us in this hobby keeps wondering if I am missing something that I could get with another brand of sub that extra 5% to 10% of performance and since I can't afford $15,000 on subs (three DD-18's) I'll try a less expensive route.

kjohn,

Actually with the DD series subs you don't HAVE to "crawl like a baby". One of the key benefits of the the built-in EQ is that you can place the sub at the listening postioin, then place the mic at the different placement options and use the EQ display to find the best placement option.

Curt, Dave, or Bruce could confirm for you if the DD18 would have other benefits beyond using three lesser subs (overall extension, etc...)

Half

curt c

10-05-05, 10:45 PM

Half,
Thanks for the input. kjohn and I had a long and interesting discussion and covered several options for his installation.
Curt

Halfrican

10-05-05, 11:25 PM

Half,
Thanks for the input. kjohn and I had a long and interesting discussion and covered several options for his installation.
Curt

Not a prob Curt, glad to hear you guys are on top of it as usual.

Half

kjohn

10-06-05, 07:50 AM

Thanks to both of you.

Yogi69

10-06-05, 08:02 PM

I don't have any problems with my new purchase of a DD-18 - but just want to say (brag) that I am sooooo HAPPY with my purchase and I am also amazed by the WAF. :D

As they say in the classics "The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten." :)

curt c

10-07-05, 09:52 AM

Hi,
Thanks so much for your post. You raise a good point, the DD-18 is very compact especially compared to eighteen inch subs of the past.
Take Care,
Curt

Lasalle

10-11-05, 11:03 AM

Lasalle

10-12-05, 05:25 PM

There seems to be a problem with the Auto on setting for daisy-chained DD-12's. The slave sub goes to sleep and never wakes up. I've switch the setting to inactive for now. I noticed there is a DC trigger option, but it looks like that can't be used in a daisy-chained setting as the trigger goes to the RS232 out on the master (which is being used to control the slave sub). Is this a known issue? It would seem the only way to get an auto on would be to program an IR (or RS232) macro that fires when the receiver turns on. Is this correct?
A+ for Velodyne Support. An hour after I posted this note I got a private note from Curt at Velodyne. We talked shortly after that and the problem was fixed. I thought the Master sub over rode the slave on the Auto setting, it does not, both have to be set to active. Problem fixed.

smcleod

10-12-05, 10:57 PM

I have had my Velodyne VA-810X for 10 years now and in that time I have gone through 3 Passive Radiators. This week I thought I was headed for my 4th as it is making the exact same, extemely annoying, rattling sound.

I turned it over last night expecting to see a tear in the foam as has happened the last 3 times but the Passive Radiator seems to be intact. What else could be causing the sub to rattle so much? I checked the front cone and don't see any problems there. I have not increased the level at all, in fact I have turned it down to try and overcome the rattling noise, but it's still there.

Could it possibly be the elastic band that connects to the Passive Radiator has snapped? Is this sub perhaps past its use-by-date?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

curt c

10-12-05, 11:31 PM

smcleod

10-17-05, 04:09 AM

Hi,
IMHO, ten years for a small (8" driver) subwoofer is not bad. You could remove the amplifier or the woofer and see if the band is the problem. If the woofer seems okay and the band is intact, it probably has an amplifier problem. At that point I would recommend contacting Velodyne service, service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. Also look into the DPS or DLS-R (CHT-R in Australia) series as a possible replacement. The Velodyne website ( www.velodyne.com ) can provide help with choosing the proper size subwoofer.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Yesterday I decided to hook up the VA-810x via the Speaker Line Inputs rather than the RCA type Line Level input connectors and this seemed to get rid of the 'rattling' problem. However I feel it only got rid of the rattle because there just doesn't seem to be as much bass.

I have a Pioneer VSX-1015 AV Receiver so should I be using the Speaker Line Input (speaker wire from Left and Right main speakers on back of amp to sub and then from sub to Left and Right speakers), or should I use the RCA type connector Line Level input (Subwoofer pre-out from amp direct to sub)?

sirsenna

10-17-05, 10:13 AM

ben soo

10-18-05, 04:46 PM

Hi;

i have a VX-10 hooked up using the speaker level connections to a high current amp driving 12ohm nominal speakers: in what ways (if any) is the low-pass xover affected by a setup such as this? The bass attenuation of the xover seem to be less than i expect.

i have no specs on the amp: it's a one-off built by my brother in the 1980's using a Sony STR-VX2 receiver as a base. It's got four 53000 MFD caps and one 21500 MFD cap connected to it.

thanks,
b

curt c

10-20-05, 12:01 PM

Yesterday I decided to hook up the VA-810x via the Speaker Line Inputs rather than the RCA type Line Level input connectors and this seemed to get rid of the 'rattling' problem. However I feel it only got rid of the rattle because there just doesn't seem to be as much bass.

I have a Pioneer VSX-1015 AV Receiver so should I be using the Speaker Line Input (speaker wire from Left and Right main speakers on back of amp to sub and then from sub to Left and Right speakers), or should I use the RCA type connector Line Level input (Subwoofer pre-out from amp direct to sub)?

Hi,
If the Pioneer is a Dolby Digital receiver then the subwoofer jack would be your best bet. Call your speakers "small" in speaker set-up and indicate you have a subwoofer. Use a "Y" splitter into both inputs of the Velodyne. Keep the volume of the subwoofer well to the left of straight up, somewhere around 10 O'clock is good. Set the crossover on the Velodyne to maximum (120hz). If you chose to hook up speaker level set the speakers to "large" in your receiver and set the Velodyne's crossover to 80hz.
Curt

curt c

10-20-05, 12:12 PM

First off, I am an A/V noob here... no question.

My current system is

Yamaha RXV1500
Polk RT800i fronts
Polk Center & rears
Velodyne CHT-10 subwoofer

The Yamaha is new, the speakers/sub are since 2001

Now... how do I maximize my bass with this setup?

I love tight & very present bass when listening to DVD concerts & CDs. As this sub has several settings (one is volume, the other is crossover frequency, etc) it does get a bit confusing for a non-techie guy like me.

any advise at all would help

thanks

Denis :)

Hi,
I would initially call all your speakers "small" in speaker set-up in your receiver and indicate you have a subwoofer. Hook the Velodyne to the subwoofer jack of your receiver and use a "Y" splitter into both inputs of the subwoofer. Set the crossover to maximum (120hz) and put the crossover slide switch to the "direct" position. Use the Velodyne volume knob to blend the bass output to your speakers but again the volume knob should not exceed 10 or 11 O'clock on the dial.
Curt

curt c

10-20-05, 12:18 PM

Redskin

10-20-05, 01:15 PM

Hi,

I am down to my final decision between the SPL-1200R or the SPL-1200 II coupled with the SMS-1. With the current closeout of the SPLII's, I could probably do that with the SMS for about $100 +or- more than the 1200R. What are some of the things I should be weighing in my decision on which way to go?

Thanks
Greg

curt c

10-20-05, 02:44 PM

Hi,
I get this question a lot. Not a simple answer. It usually boils down to personalities.
If your only getting one sub and like simplicity (quick and easy set-up and self contained), go with the SPL-1200R. If on the other hand you're more of a perfectionist or like to tweak or might add a second SPL-1200II, the SMS-1 would be a good way to go. Either way you'll get great performance. Several people have told me they are dealing with this issue so maybe we'll get some more input.
Thanks,
Curt

Redskin

10-20-05, 05:24 PM

I had a question regarding the SMS-1. I understand that different listening locations in a room can have different peaks and valleys. Since the 6 presets can each be customized, couldn't I equalize each possible listening position, and save them on different presets? Obviously, only one seat can be optimized at a time, but if I am being particularly selfish, I could have a flat frequency response no matter where I am sitting with the push of a button.

curt c

10-20-05, 05:46 PM

Hi,
YES you can! Actually preset #6 is "no eq", for comparison purposes, but that still leaves five.
Curt

Redskin

10-20-05, 07:09 PM

Cool!

I think the fact that I even asked that question points me to the SMS / SPL II option.

Greg

curt c

10-20-05, 07:18 PM

I'm inclined to agree. The multi-position eq capability was an early request by one of our dealers in England. Thanks for bringing it up.
Curt

ben soo

10-20-05, 07:22 PM

Hi,
The crossover would not be affected by this hook-up. It works the same for speaker level and line level. The low pass crossover slope in the VX-10 is 12db.
Thanks,
Curt

o! Thanks for your quick answer.

So, if i'm hearing too much bottom end bass out of my stereo speakers i just have to adjust the low-pass xover point upwards on the VX-10? --As i crank the volume way up too much bottom end causes my speakers to distort, before the point where their tweeters begin to mess up.

b

ThomasV555

10-20-05, 08:40 PM

How much is the SMS? Is it as good as the other equalizers like the Behringer one or do you trade automation for price?

smcleod

10-20-05, 10:41 PM

Hi,
If the Pioneer is a Dolby Digital receiver then the subwoofer jack would be your best bet. Call your speakers "small" in speaker set-up and indicate you have a subwoofer. Use a "Y" splitter into both inputs of the Velodyne. Keep the volume of the subwoofer well to the left of straight up, somewhere around 10 O'clock is good. Set the crossover on the Velodyne to maximum (120hz). If you chose to hook up speaker level set the speakers to "large" in your receiver and set the Velodyne's crossover to 80hz.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the reply. I have pretty much got everything setup as you have described. The only thing I can't do is set the crossover as there is no control on the sub for that. All I have is a volume control. According to the sub manual it is automatically crossed over at 85hz.

I've had this sub for 10 years now so I might try and get approval from my boss (wife) about an upgrade...perhaps the CHT10-R (3750 in the USA).

curt c

10-20-05, 11:03 PM

How much is the SMS? Is it as good as the other equalizers like the Behringer one or do you trade automation for price?

Hi,
The projected list price for the SMS-1 is $699. There is nothing currently available for bass management with the capability and flexibility of the SMS-1. We don't trade automation for price. The SMS-1 offers self-eq, auto-eq, and manual-eq all in the digital domain. You decide which to use. In addition you have the most flexible low pass filter (crossover) ever offered, all controlled from a hand held remote at listening position.
Curt

curt c

10-20-05, 11:09 PM

o! Thanks for your quick answer.

So, if i'm hearing too much bottom end bass out of my stereo speakers i just have to adjust the low-pass xover point upwards on the VX-10? --As i crank the volume way up too much bottom end causes my speakers to distort, before the point where their tweeters begin to mess up.

b

Hi,
Adjusting the crossover knob only controls what goes to the subwoofer. The frequencies going to your speakers is set at 80hz (6db) and does not change. If you're getting a lot of low frequency from your speakers then lower the Velodyne crossover to 50hz to avoid too much overlap.
Curt

DAMCB

10-20-05, 11:49 PM

Hi-A couple of quick questions. I need to know what would be a good level to initially set the crossover on my Denon3805 for subout. I have the Velodyne3750 sub's low pass crossover set to direct and my speakers have a -3db point of 60hz. The receiver has frequencies of 40/60/80/100/120/200/250 to select from. Also, I read on this forum that the 3750 can indicate the volume level by the number of fast and slow blinks on the blue light. My sub won't do this. Is there a certain serial number when this feature was added? THANKS!

curt c

10-21-05, 12:04 AM

Hi,
I would use 80hz as the crossover point. I'm sorry I don't have information on the serial number for the update.
Curt

DAMCB

10-21-05, 12:24 AM

Curt- Thanks for your fast reply. I will run the Auto Set Up/EQ for the receiver @80hz and 100hz and see(hear?) if there is any difference.

curt c

10-21-05, 11:19 AM

Hi,
Good idea. If your speakers have 5 1/4" woofers then 100hz is a better choice. If they're
6 1/2" then 80hz should be fine. Try both and then decide.
Curt

JimP

10-21-05, 12:36 PM

Hi,
Good idea. If your speakers have 5 1/4" woofers then 100hz is a better choice. If they're
6 1/2" then 80hz should be fine. Try both and then decide.
Curt

Curt,

So if your speakers each have a pair of 8" woofers, pair of 5 1/2 mids and a silk dome tweeter, what would you recommend?

curt c

10-21-05, 01:28 PM

Hi,
If you have a subwoofer, I'd crossover at 80hz or possibly 60hz if offered.
Curt

kjohn

10-22-05, 01:20 AM

Ok where is the SMS-1 its almost November ?

curt c

10-22-05, 12:25 PM

Hi Again,
Still have a week of October left. We are currently taking orders for the SMS-1 and it looks like the dealers who place orders will have the units by the middle of November or before.
Curt

smcleod

10-23-05, 12:04 AM

I've decided to replace my 10 year old Velodyne VA810-X with either the Velodyne DLS-3750 or Velodyne DLS-4000. They are known as the CHT-10R and CHT-12R here in Australia.

My HT room is approximatlely 6m x 3m and although I'm leaning towards the DLS-4000, I'm wondering if I'll be wasting money on a bigger sub than I need. My logic is that I buy the biggest I can afford. Would you agree?

cberry2

10-23-05, 10:29 AM

I was listening to my stereo tonight and all of a sudden the the Velodyne HGS 12 subwoofer started making this wild fluttering sound. I immediately unpluged it. I later tried to start it up again just using my tuner as a signal source. I could hear music but there was also a "bracking" static.

Have unplugged it as I do not want to harm the system or the subwoofer. Does this sound like a blown amp? This system has never been abused and unit is 5 years old. I listen mostly to Jazz.

Is it worth having this serviced? Cost???

Is it possible to bypass the internal amp and use my system amp which is a 400 watt Nakamichi?

Would greatly appreciate any input.

Thanks,
Chip

curt c

10-23-05, 11:56 AM

Hi,
Yes the amp needs service. Contact Velodyne service; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851. The unit is certainly worth repairing. Check with service for an estimate. No you cannot bypass the internal amp. Your HGS is a closed loop servo feedback design.
Thanks,
Curt

curt c

10-23-05, 11:58 AM

cberry2

10-23-05, 12:08 PM

Thanks Curt. Is this a part that could be replaced by my brother who is an Electrical engineer. Would love to avoid shipping this HGS across the country from CT. Also will this repair be over $500 as we have had some storm activity and I may be able to make a claim on my home owners insurance?
This sub is a great addition to the Thiel CS2 speakers in my system.

Thanks for your help.
Chip

curt c

10-23-05, 12:18 PM

Chip,
You only send in the amp. It is easily removed and is small and light. My guess is it will be more like $250. but don't hold me to that. I'm not in the service dept. Check with them tomorrow. The servo units are best serviced by Velodyne.
Thanks,
Curt

cberry2

10-23-05, 12:32 PM

Thanks again Curt. I am relieved at your guesstimate on the repair cost. I will call Service tomorrow.

ben soo

10-24-05, 11:59 PM

Hi,
Adjusting the crossover knob only controls what goes to the subwoofer. The frequencies going to your speakers is set at 80hz (6db) and does not change. If you're getting a lot of low frequency from your speakers then lower the Velodyne crossover to 50hz to avoid too much overlap.
Curt

Hi Curt, thank you again for your patience with our questions.

Hm, for a subwoofer newbie like me it wasn't clear from the manual that a low-pass xover only affects signal into the sub. Mebbe the manual should be a bit more explicit?

i eventually changed my speakers to a 4 ohm set which were easier for my amp to drive and didn't have as much of a mid-bass hump, and with breaking in the vx-10 sub, plus some adjustment of its xover down to 70hz or so i have quite an ok music setup.

Thank you again!
b

DAMCB

10-25-05, 12:14 AM

Hi- After spending a few days setting up the crossover and auto/eq on my Denon 3805 for the DLS3750 sub, I went out Sunday to buy a new sub cable at the local GG store. Bottom line, I couldn't find the cable but I was able to find a NIB Velodyne SPL1200R at a h*ll of a price. Now I need some advice on the correct posistion for the setup mike. I will place the mike at ear level on a tripod where I usually sit. Should I aim the mike at the sub or at the ceiling as Denon reccomends for their auto setup? Thanks for any help!

curt c

10-25-05, 11:18 AM

Hi,
Aim it to the front listening position. Have fun - it's a great sub.
Curt

shadow 8

10-25-05, 07:50 PM

Hi,
Aim it to the front listening position. Have fun - it's a great sub.
Curt

Does this advice assume that the sub is in the front of the room? Does this mean that you point the mike toward the front of the room or toward the listening position?

curt c

10-26-05, 11:07 AM

Hi,
At the listening position, point the mike toward the front of the room. Sorry for the confusuion. I would use this method regardless of sub placement.
Curt

DAMCB

10-26-05, 09:06 PM

Hi,
At the listening position, point the mike toward the front of the room. Sorry for the confusuion. I would use this method regardless of sub placement.
Curt
Thanks Curt- I should have said that the sub is placed next to the TV in the front corner of the room. Do you have any thoughts on placing the sub closer/ further away from the front wall vs. the side wall? I read someplace that you shouldn't use even distances such as 2' from front wall, 4' from side wall, but I don't know if this is bs or required for good performance.