I just received my new CHT-12R sub today and couldn't be happier with the sound I'm hearing/feeling.

I do have one question though. With the DSP mode set to Movies, at what volume is the sub set at? I read in the manual that the default setting of Jazz has a set volume of 36 (out of 100). At what volume is the default Movie DSP set to?

My setting up of this sub consisted of taking it out of the box, connecting it to my Pioneer VSX-1015 receiver via the LFE connections, turning it on, pressing Movie mode, and then running the MCACC auto setup on the Pioneer receiver.

Is this the optimal way to set it up? I'm hearing a damn lot of Bass but that could be because I'm comparing it to my 10 year old 65W, 8" VA-810X and I've never had this much power before.

I don't want to turn the volume down if I'm only at 40-50% of total power, but if it's up around 100% on the dial then I think I probably should turn it down.

It's the 'not knowing' aspect of where the volume is currently set that is a bit disconcerting. Why can't there just be a volume knob on this thing :D

Hi,
I would recommend you use preset #3 (jazz/classical) for the auto set up with your Pioneer.
The factory preset volume for the DPS series in #3 preset is "35". Reset will also take you to this number. So the preset volume for #1 (movies) is an additional "8" for a total of "43". Suggested volume use for most rooms with speakers in the 87-92 sensitivity range is "25-45".
If you're hearing too much bass turn the Velodyne volume down.
Curt

Thanks Curt- I should have said that the sub is placed next to the TV in the front corner of the room. Do you have any thoughts on placing the sub closer/ further away from the front wall vs. the side wall? I read someplace that you shouldn't use even distances such as 2' from front wall, 4' from side wall, but I don't know if this is bs or required for good performance.


Hi,
With small subs like the SPL series, I usually prefer corner or near corner placement. If the subwoofer is too boomy after auto/eg, I would move it away from the corner (on the front wall) a small amount at a time until I reach the proper sound. No magic number, rather "trial and error".
Curt

I purchased one of these at Circuit City a month ago. It was a display unit and the subwoofer (SPL 8") had to go in for service w/i a week (probably amp.) I can deal w/ a couple of weeks delay.
I also noticed the speaker balance between Front R and Front L had to be adjusted for the first time to balance them.
Anyway I hooked up a multimeter and three of the speakers measure 4.2 ohms and the other 2 measure 4.7 ohms and 4.8 ohms. I thought they were supposed to be identical.
Is that significant?
I can get them serviced, but is this a concern or am I completely going about it the wrong way to check the integrity of the speakers.
Most likely anal, but just making sure the "barely" used demos are actually OK.
Thanks.
They do sound really nice, but have some low db issues in the crossover area.

Curt, I have a 5 or 6 db droppoff in my speaker response above 80 hz with my SPL 1200II sub and speakers. I seem to remember that you recommended using the sub x-over to boost the output above 80 hz. BTW, I checked and my relative phase with sub and mains is correct. Can you tell me how to do this again and what hz to set the Velo crossover? Thanks. :)

Hi,
I would recommend you use preset #3 (jazz/classical) for the auto set up with your Pioneer.
The factory preset volume for the DPS series in #3 preset is "35". Reset will also take you to this number. So the preset volume for #1 (movies) is an additional "8" for a total of "43". Suggested volume use for most rooms with speakers in the 87-92 sensitivity range is "25-45".
If you're hearing too much bass turn the Velodyne volume down.
Curt

Thanks for the quick reply and information Curt. I'll switch to Jazz and re-calibrate tonight to see what changes it makes. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with the Bass but I just wanted to get a reference point of where I'm starting from on the volume scale. And now that you've given me that, I'm a happy camper!

I purchased one of these at Circuit City a month ago. It was a display unit and the subwoofer (SPL 8") had to go in for service w/i a week (probably amp.) I can deal w/ a couple of weeks delay.
I also noticed the speaker balance between Front R and Front L had to be adjusted for the first time to balance them.
Anyway I hooked up a multimeter and three of the speakers measure 4.2 ohms and the other 2 measure 4.7 ohms and 4.8 ohms. I thought they were supposed to be identical.
Is that significant?
I can get them serviced, but is this a concern or am I completely going about it the wrong way to check the integrity of the speakers.
Most likely anal, but just making sure the "barely" used demos are actually OK.
Thanks.
They do sound really nice, but have some low db issues in the crossover area.

Hi,
I would not worry about the minor impedance differences. It's probably related to the thermal protection circuitry. I would use the three that measure 4.2 ohms across the front and the other two in the rear. If your receiver offers crossover choices, select 120hz for best results with the DECO system.
Thanks,
Curt

Hello Dave, Curt, and Bruce,

Since the SMS-1 is now shipping with version 2.1 software does that mean that the update for us DD series owners will be posted shortly? What type of enhancements can we expect?

Thanks,

Half

So now that the SMS-1 is out, I have a question to all of you DD owners out there. How drastic of a difference does it make when you have the eq turned off vs. on. I know it depends on the room, but I was just curious. My room response has some peaks and dips, but nothing too drastic. Right now I have a ballpark +-7 swing from my highest peak to my deepest null, and most of it is not that bad. Do you think I would see big results, or would I be better served using the $600 for some more music and movies?

Thanks
Greg

Depends where your 7 db swings occur. The higher in frequency the more trouble it is. Plus 7 db at 30 hz sounds powerful, 7 db at 50 hz sounds boomy.

Depends where your 7 db swings occur. The higher in frequency the more trouble it is. Plus 7 db at 30 hz sounds powerful, 7 db at 50 hz sounds boomy.

Couldn't agree more :D

Here is a picture of my before and after . . .
(See if you can tell whether the EQ in my DD18 made a difference or not ;) )

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kajaj1/mypic105.gif

All I can say is that I’ve never been happier.

There are still a few problems as I move towards the sides of the room, near the walls, but hopefully next year some time I’ll get to make a few room treatment items like Bass Traps to help even things out a bit more . . .
But nevertheless, compared to what I used to have to put up with, the difference the EQ has made is awesome.

So Redskin, in answer to your question:

Do you think I would see big results, or would I be better served using the $600 for some more music and movies?
IMHO, If an EQ for you makes as big a difference to your room as it did mine, then you won’t want need to get any new music because when listening to your ‘old’ music again, it will be as if you have a whole new collection of CD's to listen too with double basses, drum beats, bass guitar solos that you never knew were there :p

Anyways,

Cheers
KJ
(PS, those pics are for real, I took them 10 minutes ago. The first is Preset 6 (EQ bypass) and the second is Preset 5 (my default EQ setup) with mic in same spot)

Curt or Bruce,

I am currently an owner of an HGS-18 Series II. I am considering complimenting it with either a DD-15 or a DD-18. My room size is approx 17' x 13.5' (approx 2300 cu ft.). It is a family room that is open to a kitchen (approx 1520 cu ft.) and a living room (approx 3400 cu ft.) My questions are:

1. Will I notice a difference between the DD-15 and the DD-18, or will it be so subtle, that it is not worth worrying about?

2. I have read that for music a smaller sub is preferred over a larger one, or does it make a difference with the technology that these subs have?

Thanks in advance.

Dan

Hi,
I would add the DD-18 since you already have a HGS-18. Their output and response would be about the same. The DD-18 has almost twice the output of the DD-15.
The DD-18 is the most accurate subwoofer we make, therefore in my opinion it is also the most musical. I find most who say smaller drivers are more musical, usually don't like subwoofers (or very low frequencies) in the first place.
Curt

Curt,

Thank-you for you quick response - a DD-18 it shall be!!

Your input to this forum is invaluable!! The Velodyne brand have been the only subs I have owned. My first - which I still have - was a VA-1210, my second - the HGS-18, and now looking forward to my third - the DD-18. With the quality and sound of the subs, and the top notch support from guys like you, I see no reason to consider any other brand!

Thanks again for your time!

Dan

DPS & DLS-R product users,

If you look carefully the LED will blink 3 times slowly, to represent the first number of the volume setting (ten's digit), followed by 5 rapid blinks to represent the second digit (one's digit) or "35". Hope this helps.

Hi Curt C or Bruce,

My DLS-R 3750 does not do the blinking suggested in the quotes. Instead the blinking gets faster and faster when the volume is turned up and the blinking becomes slower when decreased.

-rodal

Rodal,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi all,

I have the Velodyne CHT-12R (DLS-4000R) and I was wondering which phase setting I should have selected?

I have my sub at the rear of my HT room facing towards the main speakers so should I have the pahse set to 180? I assume the default setting is 0?

I have tried each phase setting but I can't hear any difference so I guess I am going for a 'correct' setting here rather than what sounds best (cause it all sounds good.

smcleod ,

If there is absolutely no audible difference, I don't see why you'd need to change the phase from the default setting of '0' :)
'0' is the 'normal' operation setting for the sub, if it sound good, good ;) No need to change it . . .

My thoughts anyway,
Cheers
KJ

smcleod ,

If there is absolutely no audible difference, I don't see why you'd need to change the phase from the default setting of '0' :)
'0' is the 'normal' operation setting for the sub, if it sound good, good ;) No need to change it . . .

My thoughts anyway,
Cheers
KJ

That's kinda my thinking too, but there's a niggling thought in the back of my mind saying "Is this right"?

KJ is absolutely correct.
Curt

KJ is absolutely correct.
Curt

Thanks KJ and Curt. I get a bit anal about the 'correct' settings sometimes.

I even remarked to my brother once "I don't care how it sounds, as long as I know it's 'technically' correct, then I can enjoy it".

Oh, and it does sound good :D

Rodal,
I sent you a PM.
Curt
Hi Curt- My 3750 only blinks faster or slower as well. Please send me a copy of the PM. THANKS!

Hi Curt- My 3750 only blinks faster or slower as well. Please send me a copy of the PM. THANKS!
Might as well add me to the PM list as well Curt ;)

How do the CHT-14's with a CHT-24 compare to Kilpsh Quintets? I am looking to add a set of speakers to replace my old sony's, and would like something small and out of the way, while maintaining a decent sound.

I have a Fosgate FAP-T1+ feeding a HK AVR225 (acting as an amp only). I am not looking for ultra high end, but i want something that will sound good.

Hi,
No idea about the Klipsh quintet. I can tell you the CHT's hold their own with satellites costing several times their original price. At close out, it truly is a "no brainer". I would suggest crossing them over at 100 or 120hz for best results. Want more, call me. I can go on and on about these.
Curt (480) 595-7141

My apologies if something very similar has been asked before... I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a DD12 for my music-only system and would greatly appreciate Bruce or anyone else's informed opinion about my situation.

I have floorstanders that go down to about 40 hz in a large-ish room. There is also a dip in the 90-100 hz range. Rather than go into much more detail, here is a link to an Audiogon thread I started a few days ago. I just discovered this (AVS) thread and think I might get even more info here.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?cspkr&1130959037&openfrom&1&4#1

Also, I am using an integrated tubed amp which does have subwoofer out, but no pre out. Hopefully this should not be a problem...?

To summarize my main question, I would be most interested in finding out if the DD system can help smooth out the *entire* range from 17-200 hz or just up to 80 hz. Many thanks in advance.

Hi,
For your application a subwoofer output is the same as a preamp output. The DD EQ cannot equalize your speakers, only the subwoofer. The EQ range is 15-120hz. With your speakers you will probably set the DD's low pass crossover at somewhere between 40 and 60hz for good integration so that's the primary area you would be equalizing. The signal sweep on the TV monitor will guide you with this. I hope this helps answer your questions. If not, please call me tomorrow.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt.

I saw a Demo SPL 1200R at a local authorized B&M store for a good price . Question: Is the Warranty still valid ? Also they Don't have the remote or mike can I get that from velodyne or should I pass. I live in the bay area so I could Drive to Headquarters in Morgan hill if nescessary. I could also go with the SPL 1200 II new but will this put out the same amount of Bass in a smallish room.

Thanks Bruce

Bruce,
Sent you a PM.
Curt

To Curt or anyone.

I purchased a demo SPL1000R from the Goodguys and they did not have the remote. I contacted Curt and he referred me to customer service for remote and mike. I also made sure it would be covered by warranty before I purchased it . Anyway I got it home and decided to try it without the remote and I got no output at all. Question is do I need the remote to get this thing to work or is it DOA . The light blinks when it comes on and then turns solid which is normal but no output and I have checked connections ANYBODY ?

Thanks Bruce

Bruce,
I answered your PM regarding this.
Curt

Thanks CURT Velodyne customer service is the best! I am very happy I purchased their products.

Hi Again,
Believe me I (and we) really appreciate the positive feedback.
Take Care,
Curt

Hi Curt,
Are DD-12's rubber feet removable? I am thinking of putting a Symposium Super Plus platform beneath the sub.
Thanks!
Scott

Hi Scott,
Yes they can be unscrewed.
Curt

My living room is connected to kichen, 16x26x10. Which Velodyne sub I should buy?
Thanks.

You might consider providing some relevant info like how much money you want to spend, what do you listen to, how loud do you like to play your system if you want a useful recommendation.

My living room is connected to kichen, 16x26x10. Which Velodyne sub I should buy?
Thanks.

Hi,
Yes, I would need much more info. You didn't mention the size of the kitchen and if it opens into other rooms, budget or use. We make many subwoofers. Our website, www.velodyne.com provides valuable information for subwoofer selection or you may always call me direct for any help.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello All,

Just moved into a new home in the last couple of weeks, but haven't had a chance to fully setup my DD15 until the last couple of days. New H/T room is approx 12 x 24 x 8 and after some remodeling (wall construciton with solid core door/threshold) is fully cutoff from the rest of the home. One major difference with my new H/T room is that the floor to the room is above a roughly 24x24 crawl space. This is an older home so the sub-floor is starting to show it's age (some flex). I am finding that the room response of my DD15 isn't as smooth as before and suspect much of this has to do with the crawl space. Would isolation cones or perhaps some type of isolation platform (retail or DIY) perhaps improve this issue? Placement options are fairly limited for the DD since the room is only 12' wide and I have a 62" WS display. I currently have it placed about 8" from the back wall and about 3' from the side wall sitting next to my display's stand.

Just thought I would see if anyone has any input in regards to subs with crawl spaces below them?

Half

Hi Curt, I just got a DD12 and am loving it! I'm mating it with Paradigm S2s which are bookshelves with a frequency response of 52Hz–22kHz, ±2dB. I've heard conflicting opinions of whether to set the cutoff on my Arcam AVP 700 pre/pro at (50 Hz-199 Hz) and also to set my Arcam AVP pre/pro to "large" or "small". Then there's also the option to set the cutoff freq on the DD12, so I'm pretty confused. Can you shed some light please?

Hi Mike,
I would call all speakers "small" and set your Arcams crossover to 80hz. On the Velodyne setup page select 199hz or off (with2.0 software) and save it. Let the Arcam do the crossover and the DD the equalization.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt, great, thanks for the quick and easy response!
Cheers

Hello

I got a SPL1200R from onecall.

The Sub works ok.

However when the power switch is on, I can hear a very very faint sound (like hissing high pitched) from the rear. The sound is so faint, I have to put my ears to the sub to hear it. The best way to hear it is actually switching it off ... no sound ... wait a little ... switching it on .. the faint sound appears. Of course one has to position oneself very next to the rear of the Sub to hear it.

The sound is present even when the Sub is not hooked up to the receiver. It clearly depends on the power switch (Auto on-Auto off does not have any effect).
Obviously the sound is so faint , it is not audible when the movie is playing.

Is this normal?

I also have a SPL800. I do not hear this sound on that unit. (Tried the switch off switch on technique)

Hi,
It's not unusual for electronics to have a small amount of residual noise. Don't worry about it.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Does the 1200R accept discrete IR Codes for Volume control?

Setting the volume back and forth between my favorite settings is always a trial and error effort. I either go too far past my target, or not far enough, it usually take me 2-4 attempts to get my volume from 20 to 30 or vice versa.

Discrete volume control, or saved memory presets that can be recalled would be awesome.

Hi,
It's not unusual for electronics to have a small amount of residual noise. Don't worry about it.
Curt

Thanks Curt.

Can you help me identify this model? A local store is asking $800 or so for it.

The Velodyne was manufacured in Sept. 1996, and says "F-Series" on the back. The model number printed on a plate on the back is a bit blurry, but the first few characters look like "SF15...". The volume control is a dial which is about the size of the circle you make with your thumb and middle finger. When the grill is removed, there appears to be no dust cap -- you can see a number of holes in the driver cone itself. The enclosure has a granite-look base to it.
Thanks!

Hi Bruce or Curt,

I'll soon receive a pair of DD-10s and am wondering whether it would be of use to use an XLR cable from my fully-balanced processor to the first DD-10, assuming I wanted the DD-10 to take advantage of a fully-balanced signal?

Thanks,
Doug

Hi,
It's your call as to balanced or unbalanced. Unless the run is really long, you won't notice any difference.
Curt

Can you help me identify this model? A local store is asking $800 or so for it.

The Velodyne was manufacured in Sept. 1996, and says "F-Series" on the back. The model number printed on a plate on the back is a bit blurry, but the first few characters look like "SF15...". The volume control is a dial which is about the size of the circle you make with your thumb and middle finger. When the grill is removed, there appears to be no dust cap -- you can see a number of holes in the driver cone itself. The enclosure has a granite-look base to it.
Thanks!

Hi,
It is a F-series, 15" servo unit. Probably a FSR-15. The missing dust cap will keep the unit from performing correctly. We no longer service these units and parts are not available. I would advise the store to contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 about the dust cap.
Curt

Thanks for the quick response!

Thanks for quick response, Curt! My question may not have been well-phrased; I'm just wondering if the electronics on the other side of the XLR connection on the DD-10 are using the same sort of circuit as the one on my Bel Canto PrePro - which is an XLR that I understand to be fully-balanced using the current AES standard (i.e., Pin 1 - ground, Pin 2 - positive, Pin 3 - negative).

I realize I may not hear the difference between the XLR and RCA inputs (an not only because of distance issues) but there is one decided advantage in an XLR connection - certain members of my household will have a devil of a time pulling the cable out of the DD-10!

Doug

Hi Doug,
Yes we are using the standard XLR configuration. I agree the XLR connectors are superior.
Curt

Curt,

First I'd like to thank you for taking the time to add your expertise to this forum. Now to my questions: I own an SPL-1200 and a DD-15. I am in the process of moving and I no longer have the original packing boxes or materials. Any advice on packing and/or moving these beasts? How careful do I need to be? Do I trust normal house movers with these? Double boxing? etc. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Mark.

I have an older (bought it about 5 years ago) Velodyne -- I do not have the model number (it is at home) but it is a powerd 8" with what appears to be a front faceing driver and a downward faceing passive unit. The surround on the downward facing head is cracked/torn. Is this type of thing repairable or should I just assume that it is gone? I can find more information if needed.

Thanks.

Hi,
Check with Velodyne Service, (service@velodyne.com or 408-46502851) to see if the part is available.
Curt

Curt,

First I'd like to thank you for taking the time to add your expertise to this forum. Now to my questions: I own an SPL-1200 and a DD-15. I am in the process of moving and I no longer have the original packing boxes or materials. Any advice on packing and/or moving these beasts? How careful do I need to be? Do I trust normal house movers with these? Double boxing? etc. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Mark.

Hi Mark,
I would at least double box or pack in a like manner, especially the DD-15. Many of the servo subwoofers are damaged during moves.
Thanks for the kind words.
Curt

Hi Curt,

Does the 1200R accept discrete IR Codes for Volume control?

Setting the volume back and forth between my favorite settings is always a trial and error effort. I either go too far past my target, or not far enough, it usually take me 2-4 attempts to get my volume from 20 to 30 or vice versa.

Discrete volume control, or saved memory presets that can be recalled would be awesome.


Hi Curt C,

I think you may have missed my post above....

Hi,
Sorry the SPL-R series will not accept discrete IR codes for volume control.
Curt

Hello All,

Just thought I would see if anyone has any input in regards to subs with crawl spaces below them?

Half

I have a crawl space underneath my home theater room. I place my subwoofer on a SubDude from Auralex:

http://www.auralexelite.com/sound_isolation_subdude/sound_isolation_subdude.asp


This product reduces the coupling between the sub and the floor, so what you hear is the sub and not the sub shaking the floor. A long time ago, there was another thread that discussed products such as SubDude, so do a search to see if it is still around.

Recently I ordered a SMS-1. I received it the other day and wanted to thank Velodyne for a great product. It has made a world of difference in my bass management task. I couldn't be happier. I have one quick question: In the parametric EQ set-up, what is "Q" and what does it do?

Thanks, Dan

Recently I ordered a SMS-1. I received it the other day and wanted to thank Velodyne for a great product. It has made a world of difference in my bass management task. I couldn't be happier. I have one quick question: In the parametric EQ set-up, what is "Q" and what does it do?

Thanks, Dan

Congrats on your new toy!

"Q" is an adjustment of the width of the eq bands adjustment, lower number is wider/higher is narrower. The default "Q" of 4.3 refers to 1/3 octave width band.

Hope this helps,

Half

Congrats on your new toy!

"Q" is an adjustment of the width of the eq bands adjustment, lower number is wider/higher is narrower. The default "Q" of 4.3 refers to 1/3 octave width band.

Hope this helps,

Half

Thanks Half!! Follow-up question - if the default value of 4.3 refers to 1/3 octave, what would the maximum and minimum values of Q refer to? Would the minimum value refer to 1 full octave - or - am I out in left field on this?

Dan

Thanks Half!! Follow-up question - if the default value of 4.3 refers to 1/3 octave, what would the maximum and minimum values of Q refer to? Would the minimum value refer to 1 full octave - or - am I out in left field on this?

Dan

Unfortunately, I have the same question but have yet to figure it out. In a way it doesn't really matter since you addressing your FR issues in real-time using the on-screen RTA. Since you can see the effect of any adjustment you really don't "need" to understand the specific "Q" setting as would be the case in a non-realtime EQ like the well know Behringer Feedback Destroyer, or other "built-in" EQ's from SVS and others.

Sorry I don't have the answer to your second question perhaps Curt, Dave, or Bruce would be able to answer directly? I too was very interested in this until I realized that the RTA makes it far less of an issue.

Good luck, and feel free to ask any other questions you might have, I have a DD15 that I am very pleased with and have quite a lot of experience tinkering with.

BTW, your system is AWESOME, however are you sure that the AVS2000 is really cable of supplying the kind of current that your "rack full of amps" require? I would think that a dedicated 20amp circuit for each to use would be wise, or at least one circuit for the Brystons and one for the Anthems, and a third just for the lower current devices running through the Monster gear. The AVS2000 is only rated to provide 15amps of current RMS and I am sure that your Bryston Monoblocks are cable of drawing that on their own, especially with such a demanding pair of monitors.

Just my opinion, probably nothing to worry about if it hasn't already shutdown your AVS2000 from excess draw. But I would be suprised if you aren't "choking" your amps maximum output abilities.

Half

Hi folks:
I just ordered a DD-12 and have the following question regarding calibration.
My plan is to put the sub where my listening position is and walk around with the microphone to determine optimal placement based on graph display. Is it possible to do the calibration with just one RCA connection to one of the two RCA input ? Since I plan to hook it up with XLR, I want to determine optimal placement so that I know the length of the XLR cable I would need.
By not using a splitter to split the RCA signal, I am basically running the sub in Mono instead of Stereo is my understanding. That should not affect the placement calibration though ??

Also I read the part about "reverse placement calibration" (i.e. fix the sub at listening position and use the microphone, as oppose to fix the microphone at listening position and haul the sub). Any downside with that method ?

BTW, your system is AWESOME, however are you sure that the AVS2000 is really cable of supplying the kind of current that your "rack full of amps" require? I would think that a dedicated 20amp circuit for each to use would be wise, or at least one circuit for the Brystons and one for the Anthems, and a third just for the lower current devices running through the Monster gear. The AVS2000 is only rated to provide 15amps of current RMS and I am sure that your Bryston Monoblocks are cable of drawing that on their own, especially with such a demanding pair of monitors.


Half

Half: I agree with you about possibly choking the WALL of Brystons and Anthem amps with insufficient current. My buddy and I were admiring Dan's setup and he remarked that it has more B&Ws than a showroom! We're green with envy.

Are the amps being run thru the Monsters? I think Bryston actually recommends that they are run directly from the outlet.

Hi folks:
I just ordered a DD-12 and have the following question regarding calibration.
My plan is to put the sub where my listening position is and walk around with the microphone to determine optimal placement based on graph display. Is it possible to do the calibration with just one RCA connection to one of the two RCA input ? Since I plan to hook it up with XLR, I want to determine optimal placement so that I know the length of the XLR cable I would need.
By not using a splitter to split the RCA signal, I am basically running the sub in Mono instead of Stereo is my understanding. That should not affect the placement calibration though ??

Also I read the part about "reverse placement calibration" (i.e. fix the sub at listening position and use the microphone, as oppose to fix the microphone at listening position and haul the sub). Any downside with that method ?

The input of the DD subs (and other Velodynes) is a summed mono input, it doesn't matter if you use one or both RCA inputs, the result will be the same, with the exception of the input level. Once you have found the best placement simply order your XLR and then run through the calibrations with the calbe connection that you prefer. XLR outputs on most pre-pros have twice the output of the single-ended outputs so no matter what you will need to calibrate with the connection you end up using. Which cable you use will not effect the reading for placement since the exact level is not the issue, but rather how flat the FR is.

Hope this helps, and might I recommend www.signalcable.com for a high quality moderately priced XLR that can be made to order and shipped very quickly.

Half

Half: I agree with you about possibly choking the WALL of Brystons and Anthem amps with insufficient current. My buddy and I were admiring Dan's setup and he remarked that it has more B&Ws than a showroom! We're green with envy.

Are the amps being run thru the Monsters? I think Bryston actually recommends that they are run directly from the outlet.

I am beyond green with Envy! Yes according to his website, the amps are connected through his AVS2000 but not his surge protector/line conditioner. I really am suprised that the "turn-on" current of the amps are not blowing the circuit breaker on the AVS2000. My Integra Research RDA-7 draws enough current at turn-on to dim the lights in the room even though they aren't on the same circuit. His setup is definitely drawing as much, and likely considerably more current than my amp, I definitely recommend straight wall outlet connection. I also might comment that Anthem specifically recommends that the AVM20 be connected directly to the wall outlet as their products already have built-in line conditioning.

Velodyne also recommends a dedicated circuit (in a perfect world) for the sub as the design of the amplifier in them allows it to draw as much current as the outlet will provide in peak output situations, even though they only have a 12amp fuse on them.

Half

BTW, your system is AWESOME, however are you sure that the AVS2000 is really cable of supplying the kind of current that your "rack full of amps" require? I would think that a dedicated 20amp circuit for each to use would be wise, or at least one circuit for the Brystons and one for the Anthems, and a third just for the lower current devices running through the Monster gear. The AVS2000 is only rated to provide 15amps of current RMS and I am sure that your Bryston Monoblocks are cable of drawing that on their own, especially with such a demanding pair of monitors.

Just my opinion, probably nothing to worry about if it hasn't already shutdown your AVS2000 from excess draw. But I would be suprised if you aren't "choking" your amps maximum output abilities.

Half

I have the same concern about power - I'll send you a PM since that would be off the Velodyne subject.

mikeyc - I will send you a PM too.

Dan

So I dont need a Y-splitter if I choose to use a RCA connection after all (Just use one of the two RCA input ) ?
And what is the benefit of XLR over RCA other than better for a long run cable ? What if the cable run is less than 10' anyway ?
And I need to recalibrate switching from RCA to XLR connection ? Is that because XLR will be too loud (too much bass) if maintain the RCA calibration result ?

I have some questions for the Velodyne tech. people. I bought my HGS-15 new in 2002 (s/n 62248024) and absolutely love the performance of it! I have had 2 issues with it since new, both fixed promptly under warranty. Sent amp in for repair once, and had remote replaced(excellent customer service).
Unfortunately, the sub amp went out last night. There is a rapid popping noise coming from sub, even with input disconnected. This is the same symptom I had before, and I noticed after searching this forum a few other people have had this happen as well (It is NOT a ground problem so please don't comment on that :) )
So here are the questions:
1. Is there a schematic available for the amp board, or is there a common part failure that I can replace? My brother is an electronics engineer and can easily fix it with a schematic. Or, what is approx. cost to send in and fix?
2. Amplifier portion of board says rev.(ision) 5, is this the latest update for this board?

Thank You in advance for any help you can provide.

So I dont need a Y-splitter if I choose to use a RCA connection after all (Just use one of the two RCA input ) ?
And what is the benefit of XLR over RCA other than better for a long run cable ? What if the cable run is less than 10' anyway ?
And I need to recalibrate switching from RCA to XLR connection ? Is that because XLR will be too loud (too much bass) if maintain the RCA calibration result ?

Correct, you only NEED to use one, however if you are using the "signal sensing auto turn on" feature you may find that using a splitter will improve the subs sensitivity to your pre-pro's output.

Balanced (XLR) connections primary advantage is the isolated ground path, which increases in benefit the longer the cable (10' isn't really short). Also, balanced connections have superior connectors at the component. I do believe there are other advantages, but I am not in the know, some searches should give you all you need to know and more.

I am not sure about your pre-pro, but most output their balanced connections at 6v instead of 3v (single ended standard). Most amplifiers expect this and automatically attenuate their input's to match this, however I am not sure about the Velodyne amps. I am sure Curt, Dave, or Bruce could confirm this. If your pre-pro outpus 6v, and the Velodyne auto-adjusts for this, then you shouldn't have to re-calibrate the levels.

Half

Esoteric,

It sounds like your HGS amplifier has unfortunately failed again. Although the symptoms here are the same this time it does not necesarrily mean it is the same component.
Our experience is that most any component failure that occurs within the amp module yields the same failure symptoms. Please feel free to contact me in the office on Monday and we'll be happy to get you back up & running in plenty of time for the remaining holiday season. As for the revision level we're currently up to #9 with updates all along the way. In all fairness to your brother-in-laws expertise in the area of electronics, it would be better to get the old one out of there and replace it with a more current amp module.

D. Saint
Ext. # 2819

Hi Halfrican:

Just checked the specs on my AVM2:

RCA output impedence 300ohm
XLR output impedence 600ohm.

Is that what u refer to ?

Now I need the Velodyne guru to tell me if the DD auto adjust between a RCA vs a XLR connection.

Also can I use both RCA and XLR inputs on the sub ? I.e. RCA to my pre-pro preamp out for 2 channel, and XLR connection to my pre-pro for HT 5.1.

Esoteric,

It sounds like your HGS amplifier has unfortunately failed again. Although the symptoms here are the same this time it does not necesarrily mean it is the same component.
Our experience is that most any component failure that occurs within the amp module yields the same failure symptoms. Please feel free to contact me in the office on Monday and we'll be happy to get you back up & running in plenty of time for the remaining holiday season. As for the revision level we're currently up to #9 with updates all along the way. In all fairness to your brother-in-laws expertise in the area of electronics, it would be better to get the old one out of there and replace it with a more current amp module.

D. Saint
Ext. # 2819

Thank you very much for the quick response! I didn't expect an answer until after the holidays :) I will call Monday morning and make arrangements to send it in.

Regards, Mike.

Hi Halfrican:

Just checked the specs on my AVM2:

RCA output impedence 300ohm
XLR output impedence 600ohm.

Is that what u refer to ?

Now I need the Velodyne guru to tell me if the DD auto adjust between a RCA vs a XLR connection.

Also can I use both RCA and XLR inputs on the sub ? I.e. RCA to my pre-pro preamp out for 2 channel, and XLR connection to my pre-pro for HT 5.1.

No the output voltage, not impedence is what I was referring to. I also have an Anthem pre-pro (AVM20) which has an output voltage of 6v on the balanced outs, so yours should be the same.

I am quite sure that Velodyne also adjusts for this, as I am quite sure they follow the industry standards, but wait for their reply as I am not sure.

I am also pretty sure, that you cannot use both the XLR and RCA inputs at the same time, but again Velodyne can confirm this. Also, if the AVM2 is like my AVM20, you shouldn't really need to do this because it can generate a sub-out from the stereo inputs by selecting Analog/DSP mode, but I am not sure on this.

Half

No the output voltage, not impedence is what I was referring to. I also have an Anthem pre-pro (AVM20) which has an output voltage of 6v on the balanced outs, so yours should be the same.

I am quite sure that Velodyne also adjusts for this, as I am quite sure they follow the industry standards, but wait for their reply as I am not sure.

I am also pretty sure, that you cannot use both the XLR and RCA inputs at the same time, but again Velodyne can confirm this. Also, if the AVM2 is like my AVM20, you shouldn't really need to do this because it can generate a sub-out from the stereo inputs by selecting Analog/DSP mode, but I am not sure on this.

Half
I hook up my CDP to the AVM2 while "direct mode" so it wont copy low frequency to the subwoofer (as it bypass DSP completely.)
I want to keep CDP in "direct mode" for purest two channel and want to utilize my sub at the same time on those material with really low bass.
Still waiting for the Velodyne guru to shed some light on why XLR connection is superior to the RCA (i.e. audible difference)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another question about my new sub..
I just got the Velodyne DPS12, and it has the night mode LED signal and button.

For those that has this sub....

The manual says, when the LED ligth is blinking that means its on night mode.
But i don't see the lights go off...its always on...
Its got this blue LED light....when I press the night button, the blue light becomes a little brighter....

When is the night mode on and off? I assume its when the blue LED light is brighter?

Also, with the connection to the reciever, i am using the RCA cable to one of the inputs on the sub. Is there any benefit to using a Y-connector to both of the input versus just one of the input using a regualr RCA cable?

thanks

I am intending to purchase an SMS-1 for use with an HGS-18 Series II i am putting into my billiard room (I like to listen to loud Rock 'n' Roll while shooting pool).

My question is this: Is Velodyne developing, or do you know where I can obtain. software whereby I can enter the dimensions of a room (i.e., H/W/D) and the program can tell me where the optimal and possibly second-best placements for the subwoofer in the room would be? Then, I could run the SMS-1 for tweaking in order to have the best frequency response. Right now, I would have to put the subwoofer in one spot, run the SMS-1, see what the correction looks and sounds like, move the subwoofer to a second spot, run the SMS-1, . . . , etc. Such placement software would certainly make this process simpler and faster as well as optimize it.

Thank you.

Jonathan,
If there is any software available to determine best placement, I am not aware of it. Maybe someone else on the forum knows. We are currently looking at many possibilities for future development.
Thanks,
Curt

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another question about my new sub..
I just got the Velodyne DPS12, and it has the night mode LED signal and button.

For those that has this sub....

The manual says, when the LED ligth is blinking that means its on night mode.
But i don't see the lights go off...its always on...
Its got this blue LED light....when I press the night button, the blue light becomes a little brighter....

When is the night mode on and off? I assume its when the blue LED light is brighter?

Also, with the connection to the reciever, i am using the RCA cable to one of the inputs on the sub. Is there any benefit to using a Y-connector to both of the input versus just one of the input using a regualr RCA cable?

thanks

Hi,
Sorry for the mistake in the manual. When the light is "dim" it is in the night mode, when bright it is normal. The "Y" connector is a good idea though not required.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt:
I have 10' feet RCA run. Would switching to a XLR connection makes a sonic difference to the DD-12 ?

Hi,
No sonic difference. XLR's have better shielding for long runs (10 feet is short), and better connectors.
Curt

Hi Jonathan

look here: worlwideweb.cara.de

Regards
Daniel

I'm thinking of buying a Rat Shack SPL meter to calibrate my speakers. But before I do that, I was wondering if my DD12 can do the same thing? I can use my AVP 700 to do manual frequency sweeps and measure it using the Velo's microphone? Would this work?

You still need the SPL meter for your speakers. The DD-12 software is only for the sub.

Hi,
No sonic difference. XLR's have better shielding for long runs (10 feet is short), and better connectors.
Curt

The XLR can remove a ground loop hum though. I found that when I installed the SMS-1 I was able to remove the ground loop isolation transformer I had installed on the single-ended input due to the differential construction of the circuit.

Cheers,

Thank you very much for the quick response! I didn't expect an answer until after the holidays :) I will call Monday morning and make arrangements to send it in.

Regards, Mike.

D. Saint, Nice talking with you this morning, as always EXCELLENT customer service. I forgot to get the shipping address from you, but I do have the RA number.

Thank you,
esoteric.

PM w/address received, in the mean time I dusted off an old unpowered 12" sub. and will drive it with an Adcom GFA-7500. :rolleyes:

You still need the SPL meter for your speakers. The DD-12 software is only for the sub.

But I can mute the sub and the graph will display the frequency sweep coming from the remaining 5 speakers.

But I can mute the sub and the graph will display the frequency sweep coming from the remaining 5 speakers.

Yes, but I am assuming you want the SPL meter to calibrate your other speakers so they are all at the same level. When you use the SMS-1, you are at the mercy of whatever mode you are in. You need a seperate signal for each speaker to calibrate them to an even level. I don't know, maybe I am wrong with this, but I don't know that it would be accurate if the tones are coming from your receiver or Avia. These sources use a noise signal that is a combination of many frequencies. If there is a way to do this, I would love to know, and I could get rid of my SPL meter.

But I can mute the sub and the graph will display the frequency sweep coming from the remaining 5 speakers.

But only the low frequencies. You cannot get an accurate balance without getting, at least, the midrange/presence region.

Kal

Hi there

I've got a DD15 connected by Transparent Audio RCA cable and Y connection. On occasion recently the sub will not wake from the standby state. Remote won't work at that point. Only way to get it back is power off and then on again. Source material does have bass content.

Original software installed.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thnx.

Hi,
I believe we spoke on the phone. I also would highly suggest you update to 2.0 software.
Curt

Thanks Curt.

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Anyone that can help,

I am looking for an entry level sub as a Christmas Gift for my Father. He has nothing today and his Unpowered Bose Bass Box and Bose Satellite Speakers produce 0 bass. The room unfortunately is very open but should not matter as my Mom won't let him turn the system up very loud.


I am looking at either the VX-10 or VRP 1000 as it fits my budget. What are the differences between these subs?

Hi,
Expect the performance to be about the same between the two subs. They are made for different market segments. Don't expect great performance in a "very open" area but either will improve the existing system.
Thanks,
Curt

http://www.velodyne.com/ Webpage not working or is it just my server????

The Velodyne website is down.

Curt,

What do you mean by different segments? Is one better than the other or is it a wash?

I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi Bruce or Curt:
I just got my DD-12 and am in the process of setting it up.
I first started with the autoeq which works fine.
However when I try to fine tune it using the manual eq setting, I find the following:
1) The response graph is very different from the one I saw in Autoeq even though I have yet to change any of the settings manually.
2) Muting the sub does not change the graph at all (according to manual, 40 and below should read zero as my main only goes down to 40hz)
3) Nor do bring the sub vol up makes any difference to the graph
4) Finally changing the eq slider does not change the graph much if at all (very different from when I use the Autoeq which I see big changes everytime the eq slider moves.

I would expect changing the eq slider from top to bottom (the extreme) should result in a significant change in the shape of the curve as was the case during Autoeq setup ??

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

I just got my SMS-1 yesterday. Too much good sports on the TV this weekend to play with it, but I plan to hook it up next week.

I use a pro-sound amp to power my infinite baffle subwoofer. The amp has XLR inputs, but my preamp's subwoofer output is RCA's. If I input a signal via the RCA jacks will it output the processed signal on the XLR's as well as the RCA's? The amp is very prone to picking up 60hZ hum and I'd like to use an XLR cable if I can.

Thanks for any help.

i use a pair of svs subs, 20-39pc+, but have some questions about velo.
what is the significance of "servo" and how many dd18 would be needed to really pressurize a 2300 cubic foot room, 1 or 2?

Hi,
The Velodyne servo system consists of an accelerometer (a device for measuring acceleration) attached to the voice coil. The accelerometer measures movement of the cone and this information is sent to a comparator circuit in the amplifier which compares the data with the output signal and makes the required (if any) adjustments. The current sampling rate for the data retrieval on the DD models is 16K per second. Velodyne utilizes this servo system to maintain extreme (usually less than 1-2%) low distortion. Low distortion equates to accurate reproduction. Velodyne servo subwoofers have the lowest distortion in the industry. For years they have been the standard that others are measured against.
If your room is 2300 cubic feet with no openings, then a single DD-18 will be way more than adequate to pressurize the room.
Thanks for your interest.
Curt

Hi,
The Velodyne servo system consists of an accelerometer (a device for measuring acceleration) attached to the voice coil. The accelerometer measures movement of the cone and this information is sent to a comparator circuit in the amplifier which compares the data with the output signal and makes the required (if any) adjustments. The current sampling rate for the data retrieval on the DD models is 16K per second. Velodyne utilizes this servo system to maintain extreme (usually less than 1-2%) low distortion. Low distortion equates to accurate reproduction. Velodyne servo subwoofers have the lowest distortion in the industry. For years they have been the standard that others are measured against.
If your room is 2300 cubic feet with no openings, then a single DD-18 will be way more than adequate to pressurize the room.
Thanks for your interest.
Curt

so does the servo prevent the velo subs from "bottoming" ?
i'm just curious about this, but i have two svs 20-39pc+ and am using the sms1, would the dd18 one or two be a step up. the vendor i work with thinks i might like the velo as an upgrade. my idea was maybe 2 velos.

Hi,
Yes the servo in normal operation will prevent the driver from bottoming out. Any subwoofer pushed to hard, what I call abused, can get into trouble. The Velodyne has protection circuitry which usually works very well. It is important to have adequate subwoofer or subwoofers to handle the required loudness level. From what you already have, I'm led to believe you listen at very loud levels. Of course moving to a Velodyne DD would always be an improvement IMHO. I would suggest an audition. I'm available by phone if you need more in-depth info or additional opinions.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello,
I have a Velodyne ULD-183a. I have a Pioneer receiver driving the inputs to the crossover on the Sub amp. the sub amp then goes the my final Carver amps. Recently I was unplugging the RCA interconnect cables hot (bad idea I know) from the receiver to the sub amp. Needless to say there was a loud pop. I turned everything off. The left channel out of the velodyne is now very quiet. I switched the input interconnect cables from right to left but still same problem. I think I have isolated the problem to be that the velodyne left channel output is bad. I am an electrical engineer so I think I can pop the lid off and see if there is any discrete components that are blown. What usually goes bad? Is there a schematic that I can look at? I can probably trace the right and left channels to figure out which part is bad but that would be a pain. What does Velodyne charge to fix something like this? Thanks

PS, does anybody know where I can get a longer feedback cable for the sub? I would like a 25 foot cable. I have a 9 footer.

Hi,
Contact our ULD expert, David Santos at; (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Regarding the cable, any audio interconnect (rca) cable if fine. You could get a coupler and connect two together to make a longer one.
Curt

the feedback cable has like 7 conductures. It looks similair to a MIDI cable. I don't think an RCA cable will do it.

Hi,
You're right, you have an older ULD series 1. The cables are available at Pro shops that sell guitars and musical instruments. You could also check with David to see if we have any left.
Curt

I can verify that the XLR output is operative when the input is RCA.

This is one slick gadget. Not only can you change just about every subwoofer parameter that exists, you get instant feedback on whether you've made things better or worse. The fact that you can feed the test signal to your mains as well as the sub allows you to adjust the top end of the sub's range to blend in best with the main or satellite speaker.

My only complaint is that the 120 VAC>12 VDC power transformer that came with the SMS-1 was intermittent, causing the unit to power off without warning several times. I couldn't find any obvious loose connections and ended up digging in my bag of discarded "wall warts" and found another 12V unit with a compatible plug and everything worked fine after that.

I just got my SMS-1 yesterday. Too much good sports on the TV this weekend to play with it, but I plan to hook it up next week.

I use a pro-sound amp to power my infinite baffle subwoofer. The amp has XLR inputs, but my preamp's subwoofer output is RCA's. If I input a signal via the RCA jacks will it output the processed signal on the XLR's as well as the RCA's? The amp is very prone to picking up 60hZ hum and I'd like to use an XLR cable if I can.

Thanks for any help.

Curt:
Thanks for your advice re my DD12 so far. Given the DD has relatively short feet and my room has carpet, does it matter if the DD is almost sitting on its bottom side rather than the feet ? Or I should raise it and put in on maybe a slate of marble/granite, etc. If it works fine just sitting on the carpet, i will leave it like that. Just wonder if the performance is compromised cuz it is absorbing the vibration from the floor (not completely raised from the floor as feet is too short with the carpet.)

I can verify that the XLR output is operative when the input is RCA.

This is one slick gadget. Not only can you change just about every subwoofer parameter that exists, you get instant feedback on whether you've made things better or worse. The fact that you can feed the test signal to your mains as well as the sub allows you to adjust the top end of the sub's range to blend in best with the main or satellite speaker.




How do you feed the test signal to your mains as well as your subs?

Curt:
Thanks for your advice re my DD12 so far. Given the DD has relatively short feet and my room has carpet, does it matter if the DD is almost sitting on its bottom side rather than the feet ? Or I should raise it and put in on maybe a slate of marble/granite, etc. If it works fine just sitting on the carpet, i will leave it like that. Just wonder if the performance is compromised cuz it is absorbing the vibration from the floor (not completely raised from the floor as feet is too short with the carpet.)

Hi,
I would leave it on the carpet but either way should be fine.
Curt

Hi
I tried sending this question directly to Velodyne, but the e-mail function on their web site seems not to be working.
I am sure someboy on this forum will know the answer. ( I did search this tread but couldn’t find the answer to my question).

So here is my question regarding SPL-800R’s EQ function in regards to it’s available presets (Movies, R&B-rock, Jazz-Classical, Games).

From what I understood form the manual, EQ function optimizes (equalizes) subwoofer’s performance to the actual room it is placed in (using microphone and all).

My question is what happens when I apply any of the presets AFTER equalization is done. Do presets discard EQ settings, or do they apply additional EQ?

If I apply any of the presets, how do I return to previous room optimized equalization?

Thanks for your help
:)

Hi,
The preset additions are applied on top of the room equalization. To go back to just room equalization use preset #3 which adds nothing.
Curt

How do you feed the test signal to your mains as well as your subs?

Tony,
If the SMS-1 is hooked up correctly, the signal sweep will go to both the speakers and the subwoofer, up to 200hz. This allows for optimum integration.
Curt (480) 595-7141

How do you feed the test signal to your mains as well as your subs?

The test signal runs out of the SMS into your receiver through the L/R audio cables. Your receiver treats it as any audio signal, and applies whatever bass management you have set. The response is what you are hearing out of your sub as well as your main speakers.

With my Outlaw Audio processor I got output only from the center channel at first when hooked to an AUX input. I then selected stereo bypass, which sent the signal to the mains and the sub.

The test signal runs out of the SMS into your receiver through the L/R audio cables. Your receiver treats it as any audio signal, and applies whatever bass management you have set. The response is what you are hearing out of your sub as well as your main speakers.

Hi all,
I'm very curious about the SPL-1200II vs SPL-1200R ($900 vs $1500); the remote is great ! what about interm of the internal design, driver, EQ setting & sound wise ? Is it worth it to get to the "R" serie? it's top call for me !!!

Another quick question on the DD series:

What is preset #6 Eq defeat ? When I look at the settings on the setup screen, dont notice much difference. Does "Eq defeat" disable the equalizer settings completely (i.e. all 8 frequency at flat.)

Hi,
Preset #6 is EQ defeat, that is no equalization. Yes all eight EQ bars are defeated.
Curt

Hi all,

As I am new to this thread, I may be a bit off track, but I thought I might give it a shot.
I have had a DD15 for a few months now, and I have really been struggling to get it to perform the way I like in my music only system, consisting of some pretty high end gear. The main speakers are the Dali Megalines, which are large, and very quick. The problem that I am having with the DD15 is the fact that it sounds slow. I have tried to move it around the room, and spent a lot of time with the adjustments available, but still can´t get it to sound as quick as I would have liked.

I presently have the DD15 hooked up to one of the mono, three way (the Dalis are two way) active exterior crossovers (of very high quality), since my system is totally balanced. The crossover is set at 62Hz.

Does anybody have any experience with different hookup options?

The room is 6.7x4.6x3.4m.

Best regards,
Jan

Hi all,
I'm very curious about the SPL-1200II vs SPL-1200R ($900 vs $1500); the remote is great ! what about interm of the internal design, driver, EQ setting & sound wise ? Is it worth it to get to the "R" serie? it's top call for me !!!


The driver and sound quality will be exactly the same. If your room will not benefit from the EQ, save the money and go with the II. Heck, you could get the II and add the SMS-1 later if you need the EQ, and have much more options to get the EQ right. If you are the kind of person that doesn't want to tweak and just set it and forget it, the R series might be a better fix for you. I own the SMS and it is an amazing product.

Can anyone give me a link to the best price for a Velodyne DLS 5000R...preferable authorized seller? :)

i know these must have been asked before, but please clarify where in the velodyne line does the hgs subs fit in? how do they compare with the dd, spl, etc? after some reading i've considered the dd18 and a pair of the hgs15. how do they compare? will the sms1 work or be needed with the hgs15? also is the hgs 18 still available?

I sent you a PM.
Curt

Redskin,
I'd returned the 10" to get the 12"ii and even save some bucks :) Well I think that is much better. I hope the 12" can blow the 10R version otherwise I will be very dissapointed. Has anyone experienced & can tell if it like day/night different in SQ & SPL ?

i just pulled the trigger, ordered a pair of dd18s. moving from twin svs 20-39pc+ is this great, whats should i expect? how will war of the worlds sound with the new twins?

i just pulled the trigger, ordered a pair of dd18s. moving from twin svs 20-39pc+ is this great, whats should i expect? how will war of the worlds sound with the new twins?

I can only imagine what they are going to sound like, and you aren't likely to hear them either, as the first heavy bass seen will BLOW YOU OUT OF THE FRICKIN ROOM!

Congratulations on your investment, I seriously envy you with my itsy bitsy single DD15.

Half

Redskin,
I'd returned the 10" to get the 12"ii and even save some bucks :) Well I think that is much better. I hope the 12" can blow the 10R version otherwise I will be very dissapointed. Has anyone experienced & can tell if it like day/night different in SQ & SPL ?

I think you made the right choice. I would take the 12" without the eq over the 10" with eq any day of the week. The benefits of the eq is very room specific. If you can find a good spot for the sub and get a pretty good response, the eq will have very little effect. If you are forced to put the sub in a certain spot, and sub sounds boomy, then you would do well to get an equalizer. The thing is though, if your sub is too small for your room, it doesn't matter how flat you get your response, you will be dissapointed. Let us know how you like the 12".

I hope the 12"ii itself should sound ok for 4000cf room w/o using the eq. The sms-1 is cost too much at the moment, 500 buck or so? Oh well maybe it will slightly drop down a bit after christmas or next yearsss!

i just pulled the trigger, ordered a pair of dd18s. moving from twin svs 20-39pc+ is this great, whats should i expect?


cracked plaster :)

I want to publicly say Thank You!, to D. Saint at Velodyne for the best customer service I have ever experienced. My HGS-15 is back on line today, and man did I miss it.
To anyone looking at higher end subs, I highly recommend Velodyne products.

Thanks,
Esoteric.

hi. i have a DECO system and the sub just died. im surprised it is used very little. is there any hope to have it fixed? thanks peter

I hope the 12"ii itself should sound ok for 4000cf room w/o using the eq. The sms-1 is cost too much at the moment, 500 buck or so? Oh well maybe it will slightly drop down a bit after christmas or next yearsss!

I didn't realize how large your room is. You definitely made the right choice. EQ or no EQ, the 10" would have been too small for that room.

Curtc,

Was wondering if there is a "default" preset on this unit?

Do you know if it's:

1. Movie
2. R&B/Rock
3. Jazz/Classical
4. Games

?

In other words, is one of these presets always active? If not, how do I exit the presets, after I select one?

Hi,
Preset #3 is default, nothing added. Factory setting is #3. You can reset the volume to factory preset by pressing the keys in the following order, 1-2-3-4 then 4-3-2-1. You should see three blinks to let you know the reset was successful.
Hope this helps.
Curt (480) 595-7141

I recently purchased an SPL-1200R sub for my 3600 cubic ft. room. After finding this thread, I can see that I probably do not have enough sub. I primarily listen to home theater in this 14 x 32 x 8 room. I originally had a DLS-4000R in the room and felt it was just a tad boomy.

Can I put both of these subs in this same room even though they have "different" characteristics? Should I set up one sub different from the other? I probably would put both subs in the front of the room on opposite sides or would I be better served with one up front and one in the opposite rear?

Thanks for your help.


Mark

Mark,

What's the average distance to the sub??

Jim,

We sit about 10-12 feet from the sub as it's presently located. We have a 50 inch plasma hanging on the middle of the 32 foot wall. It has two B&W 704 speakers to the sides and a center channel speaker below on an AV credenza. The sub sits left of the left speaker. We have 5 home theater chairs on the opposite wall about 13 feet away.

Thanks

Mark

I have an older (bought it about 5 years ago) Velodyne -- I do not have the model number (it is at home) but it is a powerd 8" with what appears to be a front faceing driver and a downward faceing passive unit. The surround on the downward facing head is cracked/torn. Is this type of thing repairable or should I just assume that it is gone? I can find more information if needed.

Thanks.


Hi,
Check with Velodyne Service, (service@velodyne.com or 408-46502851) to see if the part is available.
Curt

Apparently Velodyne does not have a customer service department which actually functions. This is unfortunate, as I do like their products.

I emailed the above address about my problem on 11/22/05 (complete with pictures showing the model number tag and the damaged area) with no response. I also called the above number (corrected the number by searching the Velo. web site) and left a voicemail on Monday (it is now Thursday after hours) and haven't received any calls back.

Does anyone happen to know where to pick up a passive 10 radiator for a Velodyne 907.2 -- or am I pretty much going to just bite the bullet and buy a (different brand which has live employees who can return calls) sub?

Apparently Velodyne does not have a customer service department which actually functions. This is unfortunate, as I do like their products.

I emailed the above address about my problem on 11/22/05 (complete with pictures showing the model number tag and the damaged area) with no response. I also called the above number (corrected the number by searching the Velo. web site) and left a voicemail on Monday (it is now Thursday after hours) and haven't received any calls back.

Does anyone happen to know where to pick upyo a passive 10 radiator for a Velodyne 907.2 -- or am I pretty much going to just bite the bullet and buy a (different brand which has live employees who can return calls) sub?

Sorry to hear about your negative experience, I assure you that this is not the norm for Velodyne at all. I and many other VERY happy Velodyne users have found their tech support and warranty service to be second to none. I am sure there must be some explanation as to why you haven't got a timely response.

If you think their service/tech support is poor, try calling a company like Sony, Dell, Onkyo, etc... You will find that having someone with poor "communication" skills attempting to read your owner's manual to you, will drive you nuts. If you want any real tech support on one of those products you will find yourself posting on quality forums such as this.

Velodyne is one of the few companies that has truely qualified techs posting on a forum such as AVS almost in "real time". I have rarely if ever seen someone post a question even indirectly that isn't answered with a couple of hours by Curt, Dave, or even Bruce Hall himself.

Not trying to promote Velo-Hype here, I just truly believe that you have found a small hole in an otherwise un-sinkable ship - The Velodyne Support Team.

Half

hey, why so quiet here?
lets hear how this holiday season your house is shaking and foundation crumbling. lets start a my velo bragging competition( its fun)
c'mon , this thread is boring. i ordered twin velos, i'm excited, don't i deserve some hype?

Not trying to promote Velo-Hype here, I just truly believe that you have found a small hole in an otherwise un-sinkable ship - The Velodyne Support Team.

Half

Nothing wrong with a little hype when it's well deserved. As you stated it rare to get a manufacturer to participate in a public forum like this. They have to deal with issues like AMR in public view and few companies will do that.

Instead of trying to bash them publicly AMR, PM Curt or give him a call directly since he posts his phone number.

hey, why so quiet here?
lets hear how this holiday season your house is shaking and foundation crumbling. lets start a my velo bragging competition( its fun)
c'mon , this thread is boring. i ordered twin velos, i'm excited, don't i deserve some hype?

What only two DD18s. Come on how about one for each corner! :p

Only joking. You should have some real fun. I would like to know how the bass note towards the end of track one from the soundtrack the fith element goes. Watch that cone MOVE! You will know when it arrrives.... :eek:

Ben

Nothing wrong with a little hype when it's well deserved. As you stated it rare to get a manufacturer to participate in a public forum like this. They have to deal with issues like AMR in public view and few companies will do that.

Instead of trying to bash them publicly AMR, PM Curt or give him a call directly since he posts his phone number.


I have no complaints about the product (functioned flawlessly until I broke it through my own mistake). I am/was not asking for a detailed tech explanation from any of the velodyne team, just a yes/no answer regarding the availability of a replacement part. I can understand their not really caring about selling a (probably) relatively inexpensive replacement part for a discontinued items which was never one of their high end, top of the line/price list products.

Based on what I have read here, I will 'suspend judgement' and assume that I just happened to catch a couple of customer service people who are really busy and can't find the 5 min needed to check inventory and return a call/email. I hope that all of you continue to have much better luck then I have had. I also appreciate Curt's involvement in this forum, it is true that no other manufacturer rep has stepped up to that level, it should be commended.

I will try one more time to contact customer service via email (right now 8:03EST) and phone (8:50 EST voicemail to 'Jamie'), hopefully I will find the same satisfaction you have. I do understand that they are a west coast company, so I left my cell phone number which will be on at all times. If not, I will leave you all to your blissful Zen state and spend my money w/ a different manufacturer.

Pete from Velodyne just called me-- the part isn't avaliable but he did offer me a pretty good trade in offer.

I once again am happy -- and give a big stamp of approval to Velodyne.

AMR40509

Velodyne has always come through for me.

Have really enjoyed their SMS-1. If you're not getting one of the subs with the built in equalizer, I highly recommend it as an add on. Its funny how much different frequency response is at the sub vs the primary listening position after its bounced off the walls a couple of times peaking and cancelling.

I have two DD15's, physically aligned with the main speakers, driven in stereo mode from the Magnepan III base speaker level. (Putting the DD-15's right beside the main speakers eliminates/reduces any phasing or cancellation issues)

I manually EQ'd each DD-15 one channel at a time with the only the matching main speaker driven. All of that went normal enough. (amp volume level unchanged)

Everything is great, but my DD-15 volume level is at '3' to get a reasonable flat match to the main speakers.

This is not ideal, as any change in the volume is then a relatively large jump.

Any suggestions on how to overcome this? Did I miss something?

My low pass X-over is at 57 Hz. The pre-amp is a vac tube Conrad-Johnston PV-5. I did not connect the DD-15's to pre-amp out as this would degrade the connection to the Aragon 8008. That is why I am driving the DD-15s from speaker lines. The Aragon 8008 has DC coupled at both ends, and is very accurate at low frequencies and does not have phase rotation caused by a feedback RC network. The PV-5 is rated to go down to 2 Hz and that was before upgrading to metal foil and PP signal path capacitors and poly caps on the plate voltage.

(I did EQ at the 76 DB range as seen by the microphone as suggested.)
(The speaker level is connected to the DD-15's with/at one terminal only, driving both terminals would make the issue worse.)

thanks...

Hi,
You are using inefficient speakers and supplying the input signal from a high powered amp. This combination appears to be the reason for the Velodyne's volume of "3". If the preamp has an extra set of outputs I would try that line-level hook up and see if there is much difference.
Curt

I have my SMS-1 running two subs, a Velodyne DD-15 and ULD 15.
The SMS-1 does not activate the two subs until the volume level on my Krell pre-amp processor is turned up to 16.
I have tried adjusting the Krell pre-amp subwoofer output higher but it still does not activate my subs until a volume setting level of 12.
I am running one sub balanced and one sub RCA.

Why would the SMS-1 not run the subs at all volume levels?

Thanks for your help!!!

Hi,
The ULD will need more input than the DD. I would run "rca" to the ULD with a splitter into both inputs. Run a "rca" to the DD into one (lfe) input. See if this helps.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,

I am already running the ULD 15 with RCA from by Krell and using a splitter into both pre-amp inputs.
If just the ULD was not coming on I would not be as concerned, but the DD-15 which is hooked up balanced, does not come on either at moderate listening levels.

Why would the SMS-1, at volume 34, have a volume cut-off issue no matter what strength signal is being fed to it?

Thanks!

Hi,
Apparently the SMS needs more input from the Krell. Unity gain on the SMS is volume "15" so give it more input and lower the SMS level.
Curt

Hey Curt (or Bruce)...

I've owned an HGS-15 for about 4 years and wanted another so I could have two subs in my 1800 square foot home theater room (completely sealed). I know that's probably overkill but I wanted to see what would happen. Now I'm beginning to wonder if I should do it.

The room is completely symmetrical... 11.5'W x 19.5'L x 8'H. The two subs would be located in opposite from corners.

Since I could not get a matching gloss black HGS I sold the one I had and was considering 2 of the HGS-15X's.

Is this the wisest move? Should I consider one DD vs two HGS's... money is not the object here... solid slamming impact in home theater is the object... not necessarily loud except when it's supposed to be... good clean smack!

Also... have you guys had any comparison to the VMPS Larger's (no problem if that is not a fair question).

Thanks!

Hi,
In a 2000 cubic room, one HGS or DD-15 should be plenty for most users. Since you had one already you should be in a good position to evaluate that. For cosmetic reasons you may want one in each front corner and that would provide plenty of reserve. One DD would provide equalization capability or you could add the outboard SMS-1 to a pair of HGS-15X's.
We have not tested the VMPS line which are passive bass reflex designs, whereas the HGS and DD's are sealed box with servo feedback.
Thanks,
Curt

Thanks Curt...

Actually I'm kinda partial to the BFD parametric EQ (being I've spent the last 4 years writing about it)... but I understand the SMS-1 is a pretty nice piece of equipment.

I have a crawl space underneath my home theater room. I place my subwoofer on a SubDude from Auralex:

http://www.auralexelite.com/sound_isolation_subdude/sound_isolation_subdude.asp


This product reduces the coupling between the sub and the floor, so what you hear is the sub and not the sub shaking the floor. A long time ago, there was another thread that discussed products such as SubDude, so do a search to see if it is still around.

WOW! Just picked up a "SubDude" while on a trip in the lower 48. What a difference, I really like the effect that it made on my DD15's output in my listening room. Highly recommended for a CHEAP tweak!

Thanks for the insight randman!

Half

I own a pair of VMPS STIII's. I use a Velodyne F1800R sub for the LFE channel. Ther is no need to adjust these VMPS speakers. I've measurd them in free air to be flat -3dB to 17 Hz. I normally only use the Velodyne 18" sub for DD 5.1 or DTS 5.1 material.

Guys, I just received my new SPL1200ii last night & have it installed few minute ago in my 4000cubic hardwood floor room. I upgraded from the Spl1000R for it ! Is it that much needed for bass sound in music & HT ??? I set the 1200 at 0db from rx-v2600, half volume knob on the back of 1200, set crossover at 100; Oh boys it already shake the whole house from floor up to the ceiling roof as the volume rx-v2600 reach -10db ! :) Now I can't stand how you guys would use up to double DD-12/15 at each corner for a room about that size ??? Are you guys trying to create the Atomic bomb in a house ? :) I guess for HT movie you need that power for real action, but for music the bass would be all over. Dont you think? ! Just a thought for this thread.

Hello everyone,
Just looking for some guidance or recommendations. I sold my home and I'm going from a seperate HT and two-channel system in my old house to a combined system in my new house. I'm debating on an HGS-12x or SPL1200ii. I just wondered how you guys who had dual-duty systems ran your subs. I would rather have it hooked to my pre-amp to help out my Thiel 2.4's when listening to music, but OTOH, I don't want to loose the impact from movies. If my budget wasn't a concern, I would get two and hook one up to the processor and one to my preamp, but I can't do that. I know that Martin Logan's subs have the capability to hook up both, but I'm not aware of Velodyne's having this capability. When I spoke with someone at Velodyne, I don't think they understood what I was inquiring about.
Thanks,
Vic

Hello Curt

Season's greetings.

A friend of mine has a velodyne SPL 800 MK I from 2003. It was bought from Good Guys, Las Vegas, which sadly went out of business.

Whenever he switches on the sub, it produces a rattling sound that persists.

Obviously something is wrong with the sub. Since the GG store is no longer there, where can the sub be serviced. Any recommendations.

Thanks

I just purchased a Velodyne SPL 1200II sub. As I have never hooked up a sub before, I have a question.
I am operating with a Yamaha amp, floor standing Mirage speakers. The internal cross-over in the Yamaha directs everything below 90dB to the sub.

Now for the question-
Should the switch on the sub be in the "internal x-over" position or "subwoofer direct" position? Does it really matter?

thanks,


Chris.

chris,

use the direct position

The 1200ii doesn't have eq so it doesn't sound as good as the sound quality of R serie. I will comment about the 1200ii in sometime.

One quick question....

What is the minimum suggested distance to keep between a computer (hard drives) and a sub (5000R and DPS-12)?

Thanks!

Hi All,
I'm on vacation this week and at CES (Consumer Electronic Show) next week without my computer which is being serviced. I will be back January 10th. If you need "official Velodyne support" during this time please contact David Santos at (408) 465-2819 or dave.santos@velodyne.com.
Thanks and Happy New Year.
Curt@Velodyne

Does anyone know what is the average of total hours for any velodyne sub or my particular SPLii to past break in period (100hrs-200hrs) ? I don't think I have it past 40 hrs of playing time yet, so hopefully it sound better !

Does anyone know what is the average of total hours for any velodyne sub or my particular SPLii to past break in period (100hrs-200hrs) ? I don't think I have it past 40 hrs of playing time yet, so hopefully it sound better !

According to Velodyne on the Servo Controlled Subs (HGS, DD) there is NO break-in time due to the fact that the servo-feedback control will make the sub sound the same from it's birth to old age. I assume this wouldn't apply to the SPL series or any of the other non-servo subs in their lineup. I am sure once Velodyne is back from their previously announced Electronic Show they will be able to give you more insight into your specific model.

Half

CES2006 - please post any gear pics available !!!
That would be great.

There is company that sells new SPL 1000R subs on e-bay and they say they are a wholesaler.

What kind of Velodyne warranty would cover a sub bought through them in case it is needed?

Thanks!

There is company that sells new SPL 1000R subs on e-bay and they say they are a wholesaler.

What kind of Velodyne warranty would cover a sub bought through them in case it is needed?

Thanks!

They are not an authorized dealer and the Velodyne warranty would not apply. I've asked this question by email of Velodyne. Another outfit is http://www.aboutgizmos.com/vesp.html and they advertise under several names all using the same physical address. No warranty with them either.

How common is it for a Velodyne sub to need servicing within the Velodyne warranty period?

Thanks again!

I am considering purchasing a pair of SPL 800ii subs. Will this give better overall bass response than a single SPL 1000ii or SPL 1200ii?

How common is it for a Velodyne sub to need servicing within the Velodyne warranty period?

Thanks again!

Remember, these subs are manufactured in California, not in Heaven. Even though Velodyne has extremely high quality control, it is always a possiblity that something could go wrong. How much can you really save (after shipping) by purchasing from a non-authorized dealer? Is it worth the savings to risk purchasing a really expensive, although attractive, paper weight?

I highly recommend factory authorized purchases, unless your going to purchase used, then at least the risk will garner a LARGE savings! YMMV

Half

I have understood that it is possible to connect a Velodyne DD sub to amplifier using 2 inputs simultaneously.

My plan is to use stereo line level inputs and XLR-LFE input at the same time. This should not harm the sub, is this correct ?

I recently purchased a velodyne spl series 2 sub. It came with a remote control but there is not scoket on the back of the sub to allow the reomte reciever to plug in! Anyone got any ideas why there is no socket for the jack?
David

David- As far as I know the spl series 2 subs didn't have remotes. The newer spl-r series comes with a ir remote and a microphone that can be used to EQ the sub. Are you certain you don't have the newer model? Both models look alike.

Text on the back of the sub says SPL series 2. So I believe that it is the older model plus I cann't see where to plug the mic in or where the IR sesnor for the remote is ... ?!!?
Very confused!

Remove the front grille. The IR sensor is located at the upper right hand corner of the front panel in the Spl-R subs. You might have a late model series 2 with the new packaging.

I am new to all of this, threads, so ....I apologize in advance if this posts incorrectly..I have also posted this question in another section.

Denon 5805 and Velodyne DD18

Help Appreciated...I have tried numerous times to get output to the sub and no luck. The sub (velodyne DD18) tests out ok, and the reciever (Denon 5805) works all the other speakers. I have gone through setup at least four times..tried different connectors etc., hooked up according to Denon with single cable etc. I get no response on Velodyne or on the on screen display. AUGGGH

In addition (can't hurt to ask) I cannot get on screen display from Denon to Tv

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Lars,

You have to tell your receiver that you have a subwoofer in the setup process, otherwise, it sends all the bass to your mains. Also make sure that you have your subwoofer's cable attached to the subwoofer output (usually color coded black) and not a subwoofer input.

The subwoofers channel level then needs to bet set in conjunction with setting the volume on the subwoofer.

In order to see the various subwoofer settings on your receiver setting, you must get the video output to your display (TV).

Bill

I have done both; set it up and checked the out put. I believe that I do not have the sub connected right, or that it is not recieving a signal;however it is hooked up as Denon says in their book

Are your speakers set to small? This is the way to get all the bass to the sub. Otherwise I think you'll only get the LFE bass.

Yes set to small; all other speakers; I am not sure if the sub has a channel assigned to it, I have the settings set to Normal which according to the book does run all the other but has no mention of the sub.....

Turn the speakers back to large and hook your sub to the left and right front pre out. This will get the bass out to the sub until you learn more about your receiver. This will also tell if your sub is working properly.

Turned front back to large...hooked up as you said and sub works...thanks....still have more to go though...thanks again

You're welcome.

Any news on the 2.1 update? :-)

Just pleased myself with 2 DD-15's!!!! There's a smile on my face that won't go away and every dvd or cd I play makes me want to listen more...

The only problem is time...... which is limited: fun is unlimited :-).

Great forum btw.

At this time I have 2 things which need attention:
1. The power from the outlet is not 100% clean so I hear what might be the fridge in the kitchen?? Does it help to change the powercord by a grounded version?? (I thougt I saw the version shipped with my DD-15 has no grounding).

2. Sometimes I power on the Sub and it takes a lot of changing setting / volume etc before the sub comes to life. Am I not patient enough and does it take some time or is the imput signal to low? (Denon 3806 SW out on +2,5db and Velodyne on step 5.)

Sorry for my bad English or technical words, the language is not my native and I am not a very technical schooled person (but I do have great fun with these Double D's).

Xander

Any news on the 2.1 update? :-)

No official update availalbe at this time, but AVtalk forum has a post with the 2.1 software, but I am not willing to try it since it didn't come directly from Velodyne.

Just pleased myself with 2 DD-15's!!!! There's a smile on my face that won't go away and every dvd or cd I play makes me want to listen more...

The only problem is time...... which is limited: fun is unlimited :-).

VERY nice choice on setup, and I agree time is always the biggest dilemna with any gear upgrade!

Great forum btw.

At this time I have 2 things which need attention:
1. The power from the outlet is not 100% clean so I hear what might be the fridge in the kitchen?? Does it help to change the powercord by a grounded version?? (I thougt I saw the version shipped with my DD-15 has no grounding).

The power cord input on the DD15 is not grounded, so changing the powercord won't make difference, perhaps you could have an electrician retro-wire a dedicated circuit. I had three (one for front-end components, one for amplifier, and one for DD15) installed in my room for about $400.00 USD and I feel it was well worth the investment.

2. Sometimes I power on the Sub and it takes a lot of changing setting / volume etc before the sub comes to life. Am I not patient enough and does it take some time or is the imput signal to low? (Denon 3806 SW out on +2,5db and Velodyne on step 5.)

I wouldn't set your sub level any higher than 0 on your receiver avoid it clipping during high output. One thing you can try is to use a y-adapter out of your sub-out on the Denon and then use both the left and right inputs on the DD15 this should increase the sensitivity of the "auto-power" function sufficiently. The best option IMHO is to use the 12-volt trigger option, as detailed in the owners manual. It requires you making a mini-jack to db-9 connector, but it is very easy to do. This way your receiver will turn-on the DD15 anytime it is powered on, regardless of signal level. Hope this helps.

Sorry for my bad English or technical words, the language is not my native and I am not a very technical schooled person (but I do have great fun with these Double D's).

Xander

Good luck, with your new toys!

Half

No official update availalbe at this time, but AVtalk forum has a post with the 2.1 software, but I am not willing to try it since it didn't come directly from Velodyne.

>> I'll check Velodyne's site more often

I wouldn't set your sub level any higher than 0 on your receiver avoid it clipping during high output.

>> I was referring to the level balance, not the overall level. If I understand it, it is a bad idea to use +2,5 on the balance level? (front left -0,5, back right +1 etc...)
(never put the Denon over -15 YET).

One thing you can try is to use a y-adapter out of your sub-out on the Denon and then use both the left and right inputs on the DD15 this should increase the sensitivity of the "auto-power" function sufficiently.

>> I turned off auto power in the DD menu, but maybe you mean another kind of auto-power.

The best option IMHO is to use the 12-volt trigger option, as detailed in the owners manual. It requires you making a mini-jack to db-9 connector, but it is very easy to do. This way your receiver will turn-on the DD15 anytime it is powered on, regardless of signal level. Hope this helps.

>> U will see if I can make such a feature, this will definately be very nice!!

Thanks for your quick reply!

>> I was referring to the level balance, not the overall level. If I understand it, it is a bad idea to use +2,5 on the balance level? (front left -0,5, back right +1 etc...)
(never put the Denon over -15 YET).

We are "on the same page here" what I was saying is that setting the "level" of the receiver's sub-out to highter than "0" is not a good idea, it is normal to set the rest of the speakers to level's higher than this, but the sub-out level should stay at "0" and then increase the gain of the DD's to compensate.

>> I turned off auto power in the DD menu, but maybe you mean another kind of auto-power.

The setting you changed has "three" options, Auto On, Auto Off, and 12Volt Trigger. The Auto-Off position will cause the sub to stay in whatever setting you left it last (via the remote), but the 12Volt trigger will make it respond to the output from your reciever's 12volt trigger (my preference).


>> U will see if I can make such a feature, this will definately be very nice!!

Making the 12-volt trigger cable is very easy, just get a mono 1/8' mini cable, cutoff one of the connectors, then solder the two conductors to the 7 and 9 pin of the DB9 connector used to interface with the RS232 out connector on the DD. Soldering iron, DB9 connector, 1/8" mono cable is all you need to do the job.

Thanks for your quick reply![/QUOTE]

got a reply from one of the velodyne guys .. looks like I got the older series alright but in new spl-r packaging!
anyone need a remote and mic!?!? :)

Hi

I recently purchased a beautiful SPL series 2 sub. I am planning on moving back to Ireland in the near future, where mains supply is 220V 50Hz. Is there some way that I can modify my sub to operate directly from the mains in Ireland?

Cheers
David

Hi,
You will need to send the amp only to Velodyne service ( 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com ) for wiring modification.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

If I open the back myself (i'm an ecectronic enginer) - is there just a switch/jumper on the transformer?

Cheers

Hi,
There is no transformer (class D). There are several wiring changes to be made. Contact service for the information.
Curt

Hi Curt,

If I open the back myself (i'm an ecectronic enginer) -

Put the screwdriver down, back away from the sub slowly, call a professional. :D

YUP I hear ya!! :)

Just thought there might have been an easy jumper setting!

I have a old Velodyne SERVO1200. (sn 101325). For as long as I remember it has had a constant hum even if it is not connected to the system at all. It increase with volume. With low volume you can hear it 5 feet away, and I'm always aware the sub is turned on. It has a two prong power cord and is still there after changing plug in direction. I've tried a number of outlets including a dedicated line, and a number of power conditioners and there is never any change. I emailed twice to Velodyne from their web site but no one every responded. Before I call the service number I thought I'd try here for advice. Can they still repair/replace the amp? Can the amp be upgraded. Can it be upgraded to have an auto sensor to turn on the sub. I realized I can get a new sub but I'm putting funds into another system right now, and this one is nicely built into a big steamer chest with the grill sticking out the back so it is virtually invisible, especially to my wife. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John

Thanks Velodyne for a great thread. I love my DD-10 and hope you can help me out. I have the following setup:

- Yamaha RX-777 receiver (200W stereo)
- Magnepan MC1 (2 small wall-mounted Magnepans)
- Velodyne DD-10 (using a Y-connector from receiver to sub left/right inputs)
- 32” Lowe TV

The family room is about 20x20 with 10’ ceilings (~4,000 cu ft) not including the additional volume of an adjacent kitchen. After reading this tread it’s obvious I am woefully under-subbed but size is a limiting factor so my sweetheart is happy (and therefore I am as well) with our little black, shiny jewel. I’ve had the sub for several months and it is simply awesome.

The problem is that after about 30-40 minutes of moderately loud music it shuts down for a while (I’m assuming due to thermal protection) and then kicks back in for a while, shuts down, etc.

I’m thinking it has something to do with the electrical circuit not being able to supply enough power as the whole setup is running off a single 15A circuit. I know the Magnepans are inefficient 4 ohm speakers thus the 200W receiver. That along with the DD-10 and TV must be quite a strain. It will be difficult and relatively expensive to run a dedicated circuit (or two) and before doing this I would like your advise beforehand.

At first I thought maybe the voltage was dropping which would strain the amp. I tried a Monster Power HTS 1600 which kept the voltage close to 120 even under stress but that didn’t help. So now I think it’s simply not getting enough amperage but I’m confused because the fuse has never tripped. I know a dedicated circuit would be good thing to have but I really don’t want to go to the expense if it isn’t likely to solve this specific problem.

Thanks for your advise.

Hi,
The subwoofer is shutting down because it is working way too hard. As suggested the thermal protection is doing its job. Your room measurement calls for a DD-18 and you're using a DD-10. I doubt the available voltage is an issue though when pushed hard as in your case we do recommend a 15 amp circuit just for the subwoofer. All I can honestly suggest is moving up to a DD-18 or at least a DD-15.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hi Curt,
Could you explain from your best experience why the SPL1200ii doesn't sounds as good as the SPL1000R. My listening room is 4000cf and I recently upgraded from the 10R for the 12ii . My impression is that in HT maybe the 12ii gives more spl dues to larger woofer, but in music the 12ii version doesn't sound tight & fast compare to the 10R. Is it b/c the 10 has smaller woofer than the 12, or b/c of the "R" series has the advantage of the built-in digital EQ ? please let me know your inputs regard the 2 models. Thanks

Hi,
The SPL-1000R might have been removing some peaks that are present in the SPL-1200II which does not have auto-eq. The SPL-1200II can also play the lower frequencies with a little more amplitude. When people talk about tight and fast they are usually referring to the upper frequencies of the bass spectrum whereas a larger driver will usually present a fuller more accurate response in larger rooms. I've used the SPL-1200's many times and they are extremely tight and accurate. Since as I recall you need a larger subwoofer than the SPL-1000R, I would suggest you try the SPL-1200R. If you choose to keep the SPL-1200II try changing the location and experiment with the low pass crossover and volume settings.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

I am considering 2 sms-1's for my stereo Svs 20-39 cs+, can anybody give me a heads up on using 2 units in a bi-amp mode? :)

Curt.
My dealer ordered a DD15 by mistake instead of the DD18 I asked for. He said take it and try it out. My room is over 5500 CF. When I called Velo customer support they recommended the DD18 and added that two DD15s would equal one DD18. I dont see how that could be true and asked the question again with the same reply. What are your feelings on that?

Hello Curt

I have been eyeing off the new dd15. But now you come out with the sms1. This is good. I have a question about using the sms 1 and the calibration.

I understand how it works but when you are calibrating you are placing the microphone in the listening position. Everthing may be optimised for that point. Moving things around can change freq response etc.... If you have multiple seating arangements where does one place the mic and take readings and adjustments from? I know if I sit in the first row right in the middle and then go to the second row behind right in the middle you get a different response.

So where do you do the calibration and mic set up?

Thanks
Ben

Billy,
I have a pair of SVS 20-39CS+ subs with the SMS-1. I run the output to a Crown K2 that has a switch to send the same signal to both channels. Works great. You could spend less and get a used K1 or K2 for the subs.

pengilly,
Major bummer. What can it hurt to give it a try?

Dave

Curt.
My dealer ordered a DD15 by mistake instead of the DD18 I asked for. He said take it and try it out. My room is over 5500 CF. When I called Velo customer support they recommended the DD18 and added that two DD15s would equal one DD18. I dont see how that could be true and asked the question again with the same reply. What are your feelings on that?

Hi,
For your room size the DD-18 would be the recommendation. And yes it would take two fifteens to equal one eighteen, more or less. All recommendations are generic. Our website offers an excellent subwoofer recommendation section based on our best knowledge and experience. (www.velodyne.com)
Since your dealer has offered to let you try the DD-15, you certainly have that option.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello Curt

I have been eyeing off the new dd15. But now you come out with the sms1. This is good. I have a question about using the sms 1 and the calibration.

I understand how it works but when you are calibrating you are placing the microphone in the listening position. Everthing may be optimised for that point. Moving things around can change freq response etc.... If you have multiple seating arangements where does one place the mic and take readings and adjustments from? I know if I sit in the first row right in the middle and then go to the second row behind right in the middle you get a different response.

So where do you do the calibration and mic set up?

Thanks
Ben

Hi Ben,
With the DD subs or the SMS-1 you could have up to 5 different eq's saved in the presets. This way you could have one for your listening position and another for a group and etc. For a 'group' eq I would place the mic in the center of the listening position.
Thanks,
Curt

Hello,
I just bought a Velodyne SPL1200 MKII (I am in Denmark and i was one of the last MKII's at a bargain price)
When i connect it to my system it and start playing, it will after receiving its first signal, start humming very significantly. The humming continues even when I unplug the signal cable. It is not coming from inside the sub, it is the driver itself that actually "plays" the noise. When touching the driver you can clearly feel it shaking. Is this normal or is my spl MKII defect ?
I have heard of "background noise" but i thought it would be a hardly noticable noise coming from inside the sub ?
Thank you in advance
Best Regards

Curt contacted me via PM and directed me to Dave Santos. Dave had me go through several tests and finally suggested removing the amp and checking connectors including the screws holding the board on the the plate. The background hum is now much lower, and is almost zero without being connected to the system.
Thanks for the great help and customer support.
John

I have a old Velodyne SERVO1200. (sn 101325). For as long as I remember it has had a constant hum even if it is not connected to the system at all. It increase with volume. With low volume you can hear it 5 feet away, and I'm always aware the sub is turned on. It has a two prong power cord and is still there after changing plug in direction. I've tried a number of outlets including a dedicated line, and a number of power conditioners and there is never any change. I emailed twice to Velodyne from their web site but no one every responded. Before I call the service number I thought I'd try here for advice. Can they still repair/replace the amp? Can the amp be upgraded. Can it be upgraded to have an auto sensor to turn on the sub. I realized I can get a new sub but I'm putting funds into another system right now, and this one is nicely built into a big steamer chest with the grill sticking out the back so it is virtually invisible, especially to my wife. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John

Dave N,

I am also using SMS-1 with Crown K2 and a pair of CS-Ultras. My question is how to integrate my Outlaw ICBM for hi-res music into the mix. Does anyone have advice on this set-up?

Thanks

The ICBM should go between the source and the pre/pro while the SMS-1 goes between the prepro and the sub amp.

Good luck with the ICBM, I found it rather noisy...

The ICBM should go between the source and the pre/pro while the SMS-1 goes between the prepro and the sub amp.

Good luck with the ICBM, I found it rather noisy...

I put the ICBM after the pre/pro (or pre, in my case) and before the amps/SMS-1. My ICBM is not noisy except for power on/off transients.

Kal

Dave N,

I am also using SMS-1 with Crown K2 and a pair of CS-Ultras. My question is how to integrate my Outlaw ICBM for hi-res music into the mix. Does anyone have advice on this set-up?

Thanks


The best placement for the ICBM will depend on your setup, if you are using a stereo pre-amp or would prefer to bypass the bass management in your pre-amp (not always a good idea for dolby digital/DTS) then follow Kal's recommendation as the ICBM will then be the bass manager for all of your sources.

However, if you are using a pre-pro that has bass management on all but it's analog multi-channel inputs, then follow Toms recommendation as having the bass management done in the digital domain where possible is usually preferable.

I have used the ICBM in the past, and found it to be an excellent alternative to be forced to run all your speakers "full-range" (and wasting your sub) if you want to bypass the DSD/PCM conversion that players with bass management built in have to do for SACD. Also beneficial if you have an older player without bass management on board or poorly implemented bass management, as many do.

Half

I didn't like the effect it had on the midrange. This was before I had the Denon DVD 3910 which has good bass management and now with the 4806 connected via firewire, Im good in the MC music BM department.

Kal, Why do you still have the ICBM in the loop? A few years ago I could understand but today it seems almost nostalgic.

I didn't like the effect it had on the midrange. This was before I had the Denon DVD 3910 which has good bass management and now with the 4806 connected via firewire, Im good in the MC music BM department.

Kal, Why do you still have the ICBM in the loop? A few years ago I could understand but today it seems almost nostalgic.

The only way to get consistent bass management with my basic system. The players vary too much in their features and I change them frequently. I have no BM in my preamps. Got a better idea?

Kal

The only way to get consistent bass management with my basic system. The players vary too much in their features and I change them frequently. I have no BM in my preamps. Got a better idea?

Kal

I suspected that was why you were setup they way you were. It is amazing how many current generation players still don't have solid bass management, I'm sure glad Denon has provided this.

I still wish someone would come up with a DSP powerful enough to provide native DSD bass management. My understanding is that even the pre-pros that have firewire/i-link inputs still have to convert the DSD stream to PCM in order to do bass management. Of course there is solid arguement as to whether most people could tell the difference anyway.


Half

DD-Series weight question....

As posted in another thread, the DD-10 and DD-12 weigh about 43 and 49lbs respectively. Am I wrong, or have they trimmed down substantially since their HGS incarnations? For some reason, I seem to remember their weights being listed as around 48 and 67 lbs. respectively. If they have indeed lost weight, has interior bracing been put in place to compensate? Just curious.

Hi,
The weights have remained the same. In the past they were sometimes listed as dry weight and sometimes shipping weight and maybe sometimes incorrect. We now list shipping weight and it is; DD-10, 57lbs. and DD-12, 67lbs.
Sorry for the confusion.
Curt

Gotcha...thanks. :)

HI
I hope someone can give me some help in making a Sub decision.
I have an HT room approx 5200 cu ft. Use is 95% HT 5% Music.
I have full range mains KG 5.5 and an ADS MS3 subwoofer at present. I want more punch on action movies and am thinking about buying a DLS 5000R and adding it to my system.
Will this addition make a big improvement ? I know bigger is better but this sub is in the price range I want to be in . Can you suggest a different model that would be better for HT use?
Will the two Subs work well together or am I wasting my time adding to what I have?

Thanks for the help
Paul

Hi,
The DLS-5000R would be a great addition to your system. You could try it alone or in conjunction with your other sub. Ideally you might consider two DLS-5000R's if the budget will allow.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

Please forgive me, as I am not an audiophile and not sure where to turn to. I have owned my SPL-1000 for approx. 14 months. 14 months of beautiful performance of mostly home theatre and gaming. Just today, I noticed a "sound" that can be only described as "fast popping" or "flatulence" noises coming from my system. After trial and error with different input devices and cords, I realized this sound is coming from my Velodyne sub when master volume is anything higher than faint. Of couse, the higher the volume, the louder these unpleasant noises are. I do not know if the problem is my receiver or my sub, but I am quite worried since I spent a small fortune on my system.

I assure everyone there has been no misconduct on my part as I take great care of my electronics, but I would appreciate advice on what my problem is (sub or receiver) and what to do? Thanks beforehand for any assistance.

Tom, Kal & Half

Thank you for the insight, I am only using the ICBM for the analog out from my universal disc player for SACD and DVD-A (bypass mode on the AV pre-processor).

I am using the cross-over settings (internal bass management) from the pre-pro for movies, stereo and 5.1 music. I let the SMS-1 handle all other equalization and bass management functions (thanks for your great review Kal).

I am using the coss-over settings from the ICBM and (hopefully) the SMS-1 for other bass management functions and equalization for SACD and DVD-A.

Everything seems to be working out great.

Tom, Kal & Half

Thank you for the insight, I am only using the ICBM for the analog out from my universal disc player for SACD and DVD-A (bypass mode on the AV pre-processor).

I am using the cross-over settings (internal bass management) from the pre-pro for movies, stereo and 5.1 music. I let the SMS-1 handle all other equalization and bass management functions (thanks for your great review Kal).

I am using the coss-over settings from the ICBM and (hopefully) the SMS-1 for other bass management functions and equalization for SACD and DVD-A.

Everything seems to be working out great.

Sounds like you have it setup fine to me, that's the way I would do it since your pre-pro has digital bass management for your digital signals. What universal player do you have? Doesn't it have bass management for DVDA/SACD?

Half

I have a velodyne f series sf12bvx10, it freafs out occasionally similar to what Ixnay posted. I somtimes will stop and feel like the cone is reversed with a fair amount of noise.....see Ixnay if possible.

Did you ever figure out what's going on with your sub? I have tha same problem. Please reply to somersdent"at"aol"dot"com

Sounds like you have it setup fine to me, that's the way I would do it since your pre-pro has digital bass management for your digital signals. What universal player do you have? Doesn't it have bass management for DVDA/SACD?

Half
I am using the Yamaha DVD-S2300 which does not have bass management. I would love to upgrade it, but feel compelled to wait for the new hi-definition format players (hopefully there will be a universal player or a quick shake-out).

I am using the Yamaha DVD-S2300 which does not have bass management. I would love to upgrade it, but feel compelled to wait for the new hi-definition format players (hopefully there will be a universal player or a quick shake-out).

A quick end to the upcoming format war would be great, unfortunately it doesn't appear that this is likely to be the case. And from my understanding, a "universal" hi-def player is not likely to exist in the near future either.

Hopefully I'm wrong on both counts, but either way, I'm going to sit this next battle for market share out, at least for a while.

Half

Some time ago ( about 5 years ago) I purchased a CHT 12 for my HT system and it worked very well until about a year ago. I noticed a rattle coming from the driver when playing anything with moderate bass at a moderate level. Sounded like a driver problem so after a call to Velodyne I had a replacement driver to install. Upon my removing the old driver I noticed that the front baffle that it was attached to appeared to be on the thin side. Appeared to be 3/4" board, 1/2 of which was routered out to recess the driver. When I removed the screws holding the driver there were 2 of them that were stripped and loose. One of them was actually not being held in by anything as the particle board it was screwed into was chipped away on the back side. It appeared that it was overtightened at the factory ( the box was new and sealed when I purchased from a local dealer). Not being able to even remotely afford a new sub I proceeded to epoxy a small block of wood (with a pilot hole I drilled) to the back of the screw hole and RTV the entire driver in place to prevent air leaks ( 3 or 4 of the screw holes actually leaked air even though they seemed tight and the gasket was in place, when I tested it with a test CD). With the driver out I also examined the inside of the enclosure and found a rectangular piece of wood about 1"X2" lying on the bottom of the cabinet. It didn't appear that it had come loose from anywhere inside as best I could see. Needless to say I'm a bit concerned about the build quality and wonder if the current subs are similar or did I just get one built late in the day on a Friday :>)? I'm not going to be able to afford to replace this one for a long time to come as I've blown my budget upgrading my front speakers and center channel and cross my fingers that it's going to hold up for a long time to come. I know it wasn't the most expensive sub available ( I paid about $429.00 from a local dealer) but I was very dissapointed when I took it apart. I'm also guessing that parts aren't going to be available much longer ( if in fact they still are) for this so I'm babying it, not that I ever abused it!

On another note I believe the CD that caused the woofer to go was "Strange Times" by the Moody Blues. There's substantial bass energy on this disc, especially the first 2 tracks and I must have had it too loud. Although, I thought that there was some kind of protection built into the sub against bottoming the driver and my system levels have been very carefully set up. Anyone who hasn't heard this disc should check it out .

I would just like to thank Velodyne for prompt and reasonable repair of my HGS-10.

I look forward to many enjoyable listing hours with this small but impressive system.

At first I was hesitant to repair this unit being built back in 1998, but this was not an issue to Velodyne.

Personal were courteous and responsive, a welcome change these days in service sector.

oth

I own two DD-15s. I recently fried the amplifier in one of my subs after working great for 6 months straight.

I asked my dealer to ask Velodyne how to prevent this from happening. The Tech support person recommended I purchase a Monster Power SW200 to manage any future power surges.

After several weeks at the dealer, I finally got it back. I bought two SW200s and plugged everything back in. I started running through the EQ and test tones on the processor, and noticed something wrong with my OTHER sub --- the one that was working fine. It turns out, when I plugged in the newly fixed sub, I somehow blew the other sub. Although I haven't confirmed, I know it is the same problem --- a blown amplifier.

What am I doing wrong? Is there something I should watch out for using two DD-15s? This is really frustrating.

Some background:

1. Using a Rotel RSP-1098, each sub plugged into each of the sub outs.
2. Using a Monster HTS-5100 for all of my equipment except the subs and my amps. Amps are plugged straight into the wall.
3. Using an SW200 for each sub. I'm not plugging in any interconnects into the unit. I.e., I'm just plugging in the power cord into it. BTW, I'm using an Audioquest NRG-3 power cord instead of the stock cord on the DD-15. Unit says protection is ON, grounding OK.
4. Both subs are plugged into the same 15amp circuit.

I haven’t ruled out an electrical problem in my house. I was going to have an electrician come out and do a voltage test to see if there are any issues.

Any help with this issue would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you!

Greetings all,
I know this is probably a stupid question but is it ok to utilize an extention cord for the sub since it is to far away to plug into any outlets? There are none near it. It is the dsp12 and sits about 5 feet away from the tv and the monster3500 which i would like to plug it into. Thank you in advance for a response!!

Hi,
If it's 6 feet or less, then a 16 gauge extension cord is fine. If it's longer use a 14 gauge. Avoid the common 18 gauge cords.
Curt (480) 595-7141

This question is for Curt C. It's more a theory question, to be honest.
And yes, i'm new to the home theatre world...

Here's my situation; i've got a little yamaha sub with a 6.5" woofer in there. It gets me by, but I would love to get something much better.

Now, the question I ask myself is...

Do I get a 12" and keep it's volume down (such as a DSP12), or get a 10" (DSP10?) and keep it in the 'sweet spot' volume range and let it do it's job?

The room it's in is the main room in the suite, so it shares a small kitchen, has computer desks with hutches, it even has an uneven ceiling, going from probably 8ft to 9ft ... so there's lots of factors there. The only opening into the room is a hallway, at the opposite corner from the TV/speakers/sub (probably 30-35ft away) The room is probably 18-20ft across? ... i can measure and all that, if you want. Don't know how detailed you're willing to get, to give some advise on what sub(or sub size?) i really should be looking at here.

Phew, more than I meant to say. Maybe i'm a bit long winded.

Thanks for any advice you can give!
Andrew

Edit for spelling n stuff.

Hi,
Of the two choices you've indicated, go with the DPS-12. If you combine all the cubic displacement (www.velodyne.com "selecting a subwoofer") I suspect you'll find the DPS-12 may not be large enough. A subwoofer must energize the whole open displacement.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Ahhh, cool. Thanks for that pointer ;)

I never noticed that part of the velodyne site. I'll take some measurements, and see what the 'sub-o-matic' spits out as a reccomendation for my situation.

Thanks, again.
Andrew

Hi Curt C,

I am seriously considering a DD-15 for mostly home theater. I have a 1700 cubic foot room and I am used to some serious bass. I wondered what the typical in-room SPLs were for the DD-15? There is nothing worse than not having quite enough sub. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!

yuck.
Off the top of my head measurements = DD18 or an 1812 is required for my room =/
double sub setuip? 2 x DD15 or 2 x DD18

Man, and I thought a 12" would cut it. Was i wrong! :(

Hi,
I suspected so. You might consider the DLS-5000R which will give you a lot more than you have now.
Curt

yeah, that would be nice. Too bad it's such a step up in terms of price.
Thanks for your help and advice, especially so prompt!

Regards.

OK, i actually measured .... and i'm coming in at a whopping way less than previously thought ~3699 cubic feet. Now... using velodyne's online tool, 4000 cubic feet suggests all 15" subs. Using the 3500 cubic footage option, it suggest a DD12 ... now, at first, i thought maybe this would be comparible to the DSP12B that i previously mentioned. Boy, was I wrong.

They are both 12" single woofers, right?
what's with the price difference? that's a little excessive :o
$599 cdn retail for the DSP-12B, and 2100+ USD e-tail for a DD12

OK, so i understand why the price is so much higher. Obviously, this is a technically superior product.

So, since i really dont know how this works; i'll cut straight to it:
will a DSP-12B 'fill' my room as well as a DD-12, which is recommended by velodynes online reccomendation tool?

It looks like the DD-12 has an amp that outputs about 10x the watts, which i'm sure helps. But does the 12" DD-12 really move that much less air that it will not provide a 'room-lock' (insert proper term here please) and thus provide me with some 'proper' bass that i can feel from the subwoofer?

Thanks for your time, Curt.

EDIT: ah, i see; the DD goes down to 17hz, whereas the DSP is rated at 25hz... *shrug* considering i'm using a 6.5" yamaha dont think that's a deal breaker!

Hi,
It's like comparing a Cavilier to a Mercedes. Yeah they'll both get you there. The DPS is an efficient (bass reflex) design so it doesn't require the power of the sealed box DD-12. So my first recommendation for you would be the DLS-5000R and fall-back would be the DPS-12. Either way you'll be way happier than with that little one.
Thanks and Good Luck.
Curt

okay, can you clarify for me what the difference between the DSP-12B, found here at futureshop in canada clicky (http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0665000FS10049371&catid=10554) and the DPS-12 found here at velodyne's website click for velodyne website (http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/products/product.aspx?ID=9&sid=476a194s) is the reversal of the P and S a mistake? or is that another model alltogether? If it is, i'm not seeing it on velodyne's website, discontinued or new.