shoot, forgot to ask, Curt: does furniture, kitchen cabinets, computer desks, couches... affect your recomendation based on my given cubic footage?

Hi,
Yeah it looks like a reversal. There is no DSP. The 'B' stands for black. I don't normally subtract for furniture as most rooms have it. The recommendations on the website are just a guide based on our experience and knowledge.
Curt

if subs are in a daisy chain does that eliminate issues with phase and positioning? what does the "master" control?
i ask because it seems that my master works more than the "slave" and they are observed to move differently. whats this all about?

Hi Curt & all ... !
Do you know any particular store in LA area currently carry any DD series on floor to demo?
I already have enough SPL series which is its sound quality limit ! thinking for a better quality sub, so a DD would do it right? I hope the quality of a DD will put the SPL series in the 2nd room ! So do you think the DD-12 will provide fast & cripy tight bass in music or I need a DD-15 in 4000cf room? My listening reference mostly in jazz music from trio to contemporary.

Hi,
I recommend a DD-15 for 4000 cubic feet. I don't know what dealer might have the DD on display but I'm sure some do. I'll PM you the phone number of our representative for Southern California and they will help you with a dealer selection.
Curt

Greetings all,
I know this is probably a stupid question but is it ok to utilize an extention cord for the sub since it is to far away to plug into any outlets? There are none near it. It is the dsp12 and sits about 5 feet away from the tv and the monster3500 which i would like to plug it into. Thank you in advance for a response!!

Let me suggest another alternative. I know you would like to put it on the same Ac conditioner and the same AC line. However, with a similar situation, I use a Panamax Max 2 Sub which is a tiny AC line and signal line filter for the sub alone. Makes it possible to have a secure local AC connection for the sub.

Kal

Hi Bruce

Which of the Velodyne subs would you recommend with the Legacy Whispers?
My room is 20'x20'x8'. The floor is laminate on concrete. I can place the sub(s) against the concrete corner(s).

Thanks for the advice.

Hi,
I would recommend the DD-18. A pair of DD-18's would be the ultimate. I have heard the Whispers and they do a good job down to 40-50hz, so you need to fill in the lowest frequencies.
Curt

hello i am actually looking for curt.

i needed some help with velodyne sub setting to get the best out of it,i have sony str-de598 reciever.and a vx10.

what would be a good setting for starts.
any help will be appreciated.

i listen to rock and u know the bass drum kicks are barely audible but the bass guitars the loudest that seems to come out from the sub.u could here the bass drum but its overpowered by the bass guitars.i wanted a nice kick from the sub which i am not getting.i thought it would give it to me.i dont know what i am doing wrong


thanx

HELP.
I finally upgraded the software on my DD-18 to v 2.0 and now I have no output from the sub. The audio out gives me the whale mating call through my system Bryston 1.7 but no output from the sub. I have reset, I have tried everything I know how.
The test screen shows 2.0 in the upper left hand corner. All remote functions appear to work fine. I have had volume up to 99 nothing helps.

Considering the subject subwoofer for my surround system. However, at www.Pricegrabber.com it says that the minimum input power required is 135 watts. See:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_techspecs_full.php/masterid=3105907

My receiver (Sony STR-DE885) puts out 100 watts rms per channel. Is the Pricegrabber info correct or incorrect?

Thanks

Hi,
They are mistaken, both power ratings should be output, not input. We don't use your receivers power, just an input.
Curt

hello i am actually looking for curt.

i needed some help with velodyne sub setting to get the best out of it,i have sony str-de598 reciever.and a vx10.

what would be a good setting for starts.
any help will be appreciated.

i listen to rock and u know the bass drum kicks are barely audible but the bass guitars the loudest that seems to come out from the sub.u could here the bass drum but its overpowered by the bass guitars.i wanted a nice kick from the sub which i am not getting.i thought it would give it to me.i dont know what i am doing wrong


thanx

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

My sub is packaged up in the original carton and material and headed to the nearest service centre 425 miles away. It is still under warranty but I have to pay shipping one way.

I hope it is some software malfunction and not hardware, I would be extremely disappointed if it was hardware.

Has anyone else had to have their DD-18 serviced, if yes what had to be repaired or replaced?

I have the subject sub on the way. I will want to get it hooked up properly with my satellite speaker system as soon as it arrives. I have a 5 pc Polk RM6005 satellite system and a Sony STR-DE885 receiver. Should I connect the rt and lf speakers thru the sub or connect the sub with a "subwoofer pre out" cable? Should I set the satellites on small or large?
I've read the VRP manual and it's not very specific. I've also read the sub hookup guidance on the Polk site, but it's confusing. The latter document seems to strongly recommend not using the receiver's sub out connection, and running the rt and lf speakers thru the sub.
Any help or guidance will be appreciated. Otherwise, it will be trial and error on myu part.

As someone who has been an audiophile and now home theater enthusiast for forty years I want to say that the above sub does a fantastic job. I was planning on buying a second one for the other corner but it might just be overkill. Bruce and his brother Dave have designed one very fine sub. Thanks guys.

Well, it looks like my HGS-15 has given up the ghost again :(

It's now making a constant, loud buzzing noise that doesn't change whether I fool with the volume, or disconnect the sub input.

I just had it fixed for ~$200 USD in July 2005 to correct a thumping noise. I'm just not sure now whether paying another $200 to fix a 6 year-old sub is worth it.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement for my HGS-15? Are servo subs and 15-inch drivers "passe" now? I just want a good sub for music and HT (I have Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home speakers) to fill a 13x20 foot room.

Thanks.

Mike

Hi Mike,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

I currently have a Velodyne Servo 1200-F subwoofer. My receiver does not have a “sub out” jack, therefore my wiring is from "speaker out" on the receiver, to the sub "speaker in" and then from the sub "speaker out" to the speakers. It works and sounds great. However, I want to acquire a new receiver that has a “sub out” jack. I thought in this case I could wire my speakers directly from the receiver to the speakers and the “sub out” on the receiver to the left “line in” on the sub. My concern is that my Velodyne owner’s manual says the following “if your processor has a subwoofer out jack on it, in most cases it is best not to use it for connecting your Velodyne. By doing so, you will be combining the cross-over of the Velodyne with the cross-over of the processor. This can result in low gain and increased noise. Instead we suggest you connect your Velodyne between the main or front speaker outputs of your processor and the amplifier that will drive them. This will generally give you the best results.” The diagram shows a pre-amplifier main left and right output going to the "line in" on the sub and then "line out" on the sub going to the left and right on the amplifier, then the "speakers out" from the amplifier to the speakers. Since I don’t have a stand alone pre-amplifier, not sure what to do at this point. Sounds more complicated than it should be. There is no diagram in the owner’s manual showing an amplifier with a “sub out” jack. I would prefer to use the “sub out” jack from the receiver to the "line in" on the sub and wire the speakers directly from the receiver. This saves speaker wire and cuts down on the clutter of wires. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Hi,
You have a subwoofer and an owner's manual that predates home theater. On your new receiver run an audio interconnect (rca cable) from the subwoofer output jack of your receiver to the sub. At the sub use a "Y" splitter (one male-two female) into both input jacks. The built-in crossover of the sub will not interfere with your receivers if the receiver is crossing over at 80hz or below. In your receiver, call your speakers "small" and indicate you have a subwoofer. This subwoofer was designed for music in a fairly small space so keep the sub's volume below half way. If you have questions, please call.
Curt (480) 595-7141 or Curt@

In the above reply to bbenson, wouldn't selecting "small" for speakers result in the receiver crossing well above 80 hz?

BTW, I didn't get any response from my previous question submitted yesterday. It's also related to connecting my sub and avoiding crossover problems. Any help on that one?

Thanks

Hi,
No, usually 80hz is default or selectable.
Your situation has a couple of possible answers and you indicated you would call me.
You can hook up the front two satellites through the subwoofer using all speaker in and out connections. In that case call your front speakers "large" and the others "small". If your receiver offers high (120 or 150hz) crossover choices, then select a high crossover point, call all your speakers "small" and hook the sub up with line level (rca cable) and bypass the crossover in the Velodyne. All your speakers would be hooked up directly to the receiver in this case.
Curt

Thanks Curt.

I own what I believe to be the velodyne v-810-b subwoofer. It is probably about 10 years old and I have having trouble finding any specs on it. Do you know where I could get some more info?

Hi,
It's a VA-810 subwoofer. It has 100 watts and the frequency response is 35-120. It has a front firing 8" woofer and a down firing 10" passive radiator. It was a good all round (music/HT) sub for small rooms.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Hello
I own the Velodyne F1500R subwoofer. I am the original owner and purchased the sub new.
For several years now, I had have a problem with the sub woofer kicking out, on what I beleive to be the thermal protection device when playing 5.1 audio.
The sub is not really being played very loud. I own a Lexicon processor and have the sub crossover set to 80Hz. It will mostly happen during explosions, or other simular occurances from 5.1 DD audio. It's as if the sub does not handle DD 5.1 audio very well, because if I play audio CD's, I have no problems.
I believe the thermal protection in the sub has gotten weaker over time. The sub will self reset itself after 1-2 minutes or if I power off the sub it will reset.
I hope some one here can help me. Can the thermal protection device be bypassed, or replaced?
Where is the physical location of the thermal protection device? Can it be jumpered?

Thanks in advance

Hi,
The F series subs were designed primarily for music, not home theater, as you have discovered. There is no way to bypass the thermal protection circuitry and it's there to prevent serious damage. Try the following and you may prevent some of the shutdowns.
1) Use a "Y" splitter into both inputs.
2) Locate the subwoofer in or close to a corner, well away from any room openings.
3) In your receiver raise the volume control for the subwoofer jack to three forths of the way up.
4) Keep the Velodyne's volume well below straight up (12 O'clock). Around 10 O'clock is a good setting.
The F series servo woofers are extremely accurate but limited in maximum output by todays standards. Explosions, rumbles and other movie sound effects are not their forte.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141 or Curt@Velodyne.com

Hi,
The F series subs were designed primarily for music, not home theater, as you have discovered. There is no way to bypass the thermal protection circuitry and it's there to prevent serious damage. Try the following and you may prevent some of the shutdowns.
1) Use a "Y" splitter into both inputs.
2) Locate the subwoofer in or close to a corner, well away from any room openings.
3) In your receiver raise the volume control for the subwoofer jack to three forths of the way up.
4) Keep the Velodyne's volume well below straight up (12 O'clock). Around 10 O'clock is a good setting.
The F series servo woofers are extremely accurate but limited in maximum output by todays standards. Explosions, rumbles and other movie sound effects are not their forte.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141 or Curt@Velodyne.com

Thanks Curt.
I will try those things and report back.
Where can I find a used HGS-18?

What is the word on the Velodyne 5000R? All online sites are out of this product, I placed an order a month ago with one site, and they continue to say that Velodyne is not shipping out this unit.

First, is the 5000R backordered as the site I am dealing with says? If so, how soon will they be getting their shipments?

Thanks for your time.

Hi,
I don't want to sound like a broken record but the DLS-5000R has been way more popular than we ever anticipated. We are doing everything possible to procure parts to build enough of these. As of today we expect all (current) back ordered units to be delivered by the end of February. We hope to be totally caught up with demand in the next month or two. We certainly appreciate your patience and support.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
I don't want to sound like a broken record but the DLS-5000R has been way more popular than we ever anticipated. We are doing everything possible to procure parts to build enough of these. As of today we expect all (current) back ordered units to be delivered by the end of February. We hope to be totally caught up with demand in the next month or two. We certainly appreciate your patience and support.
Thanks,
Curt

Man, I'm glad I got mine when I did. Who knew I had such good taste. ;D (Of course eveyone gets lucky once in a while. I did with my wife.) I'm getting ready to build a new room but I wanted to start getting stuff and getting used to it so I didn't have to learn stuff as I was building. By the way my family loves what it was able to do compared to my older smaller one. And we just recently added the SMS-1 to it and boy does it make a difference. It actually is making it fun for us to listen to certain things.

Well, it looks like my HGS-15 has given up the ghost again :(

It's now making a constant, loud buzzing noise that doesn't change whether I fool with the volume, or disconnect the sub input.

I just had it fixed for ~$200 USD in July 2005 to correct a thumping noise. I'm just not sure now whether paying another $200 to fix a 6 year-old sub is worth it.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement for my HGS-15? Are servo subs and 15-inch drivers "passe" now? I just want a good sub for music and HT (I have Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home speakers) to fill a 13x20 foot room.

Thanks.

Mike

Curt C
I am having the same problem with my HGS-12.
The sub have been to the workshop 2 times whit similar problems. The last time they put in a new amp.

I have been thinking of a upgrade in my HT room to a DD-15, putting the HGS-12 in the TV room, but I am not sure if I want to keep spending money on the sub if I cant get it stable.

I guess I don't have to tell you that I am ecstatic whit the sub when It works.... :D

Thanks /Peter

well, my sub officiall is out a third time. which makes three times within 2 years. its really disheartening cause the sub is great when it works.

i have it on a surge protector but i am thinking this time (since it powers up fine just lets out a loud hum when it clicks on) that it might be a receiver based problem. my reciever is old and untrustworthy. so i plan to get the sub fixed again, hopefully at not much cost, but wont be using it full time until i get a new receiver or preamp.

still for any cost of audio video equipment, sending this thing 3 times is a nuisance.

hope you have better luck with yours.

Hi Peter and Lovealego,
I'm very sorry for the problems you've had with the subwoofers. We are constantly working to improve the reliability of all Velodyne subwoofers. The subwoofer is the hardest working component in a system and must be designed to withstand heavy-duty usage. In my experience, the most common issue with subwoofer failure has to do with using too small a subwoofer for the application. I highly recommend going to our website (www.velodyne.com) and under 'which product' select 'subwoofer recommendations'. Be sure to calculate all cubic displacement as explained. A proper size subwoofer will not only be more reliable but will offer much better performance.
If you need repair on a Velodyne subwoofer please contact;
Velodyne Service (service@velodyne.com) or call (408) 465-2851. For our service manager please contact David Santos (dave.santos@velodyne.com) or (408) 465-2819.
Customer satisfaction is our utmost concern.
Again sorry for your difficulties and thanks for your patience.
Curt

Hi Curt,
I'm currently use the rx-v2600 & spl-1200ii. Is it ok to turn spl-1200 volume all the way max & cross-over at highest freq. Will it damage the spl-1200 if I play the rx-v2600 at high volume in movie & music like -10db or so. My point is that does the spl-1200ii designed to handle any extreme condition w/o problem, or use it cautiously ?

Hi,
Always treat all fine items with care and respect. You don't mention the total area cubic displacement. The SPL-1200II is a (relatively) small sealed box subwoofer designed for accurate bass reproduction in a small to medium room. The volume control on the sub should be less than half way. A 'Y' splitter into both inputs is a good idea. Setting the crossover to max is okay if that's the way you like the sound. Until I know the total cubic feet (see my previous entry) I don't know if you have the appropriate sub. This unit is not designed for extreme loudness, it's designed to play loud for it's size in the proper environment.
Curt

My room is about 4k cf. So you suggest to turn the volume at about 50% to 75% then turn the receiver volume high at -10db to -15db would be safe?
We should not turn volume on the back of the velodyne sub to max at any time = This is good suggestion !

Hi,
First of all the SPL-1200II is too small for your room size. Keep the Velodyne's volume below 50%. The volume for the (subwoofer jack) in the Yamaha should be about 75%. Since this sub is undersized, I would not attempt to play real loud. I would also locate it in a corner away from any openings.
Your 4000 cubic feet would require a DLS-5000R, DD-15 or DD-18. Two SPL-1200II's should also work well.
Curt

Hello: I am new to this thread and was wondering if you guys can help. I am seeking the RIGHT sub to mate with my Magnepan 3.5 speakers and have been told that one of Velodyne's Digital subs would be an excellent choice (such as the DD-12). My listening room is 16 x 20 with a beamed "cathedral type" ceiling which goes up the 12 ft at the peak. I have been using an REL "Storm" sub but it's controls are limited and I've never been fully satisfied with its performance. How complicated is it to set up a "DD" sub? I still want to run the Maggies full range and just let the Velodyne take care of the very low end. My ARC preamp has an extra set of "main outs" so I guess I could run cabeling from these, right? My dealer is willing to let me "audition" a DD-12, but as far as set-up is concerned, I'm afraid I would be on my own. Any help or suggestions would be most greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Let me suggest another alternative. I know you would like to put it on the same Ac conditioner and the same AC line. However, with a similar situation, I use a Panamax Max 2 Sub which is a tiny AC line and signal line filter for the sub alone. Makes it possible to have a secure local AC connection for the sub.

Kal

I just received my DD-18 and look forward to wasting an entire weekend on my new system. I am having (3) 20 amp circuits run to my system for the following:
1.)Source units, pre/pro, video (Classe Delta/Rotel)
2.) Classe 3200 amp Classe 2100 amp
3.) Velodyne DD-18

Now I respect Kal very much. So, pardon my ignorance. Would this Panamax Item make sense to put in between the dedicated 20 amp circuit and the DD-18. This product has a 15A max. Could this be a limiting factor?? If so, is there a similar unit that will offer surge protection without limiting it to 15A.... Sounds like the DD amp has peaks near 17A.... or am I wrong?

By the way, I have an oddly shaped grand room that has about 6000 cu ft.
There are two open walkways that open up to the rest of my 40,800 cu ft house (doors open) Do you think the one DD-18 will suffice?

I just received my DD-18 and look forward to wasting an entire weekend on my new system. I am having (3) 20 amp circuits run to my system for the following:
1.)Source units, pre/pro, video (Classe Delta/Rotel)
2.) Classe 3200 amp Classe 2100 amp
3.) Velodyne DD-18

Now I respect Kal very much. So, pardon my ignorance. Would this Panamax Item make sense to put in between the dedicated 20 amp circuit and the DD-18. This product has a 15A max. Could this be a limiting factor?? If so, is there a similar unit that will offer surge protection without limiting it to 15A.... Sounds like the DD amp has peaks near 17A.... or am I wrong?

By the way, I have an oddly shaped grand room that has about 6000 cu ft.
There are two open walkways that open up to the rest of my 40,800 cu ft house (doors open) Do you think the one DD-18 will suffice?

Stew,

I have a DD-18 in a 7000 cf room (20' ceilings) with large openings and it does the job. You are fine (actually over kill) on the power and I'm sure the 18 will make you happy. If not, you can always add another. After watching War of the Worlds again tonight, I can't imagine needing/wanting more bass than the DD-18 puts out but I guess some folks here do. :)

Now I respect Kal very much. So, pardon my ignorance. Would this Panamax Item make sense to put in between the dedicated 20 amp circuit and the DD-18. This product has a 15A max. Could this be a limiting factor?? If so, is there a similar unit that will offer surge protection without limiting it to 15A.... Sounds like the DD amp has peaks near 17A.... or am I wrong?


Unless you are driving your DD18 to it's "limits" you shouldn't have any issues with the panamax surge protector limiting the sub's amplifier, however if you are concerned and "have" to have a surge protector due to your environment then you might look into panamax's 20amp surge protectors as an alternative. They are a little more expensive than the basic "wall plug in" version of the panamax, but heck you are protecting a $5000.00 sub so a couple hundred $ shouldn't be a real concern when it comes to protecting your investment. You also might want to look into the series mode devices offered by Brickwall, they offer much better protection than the MOV's of the panamax and similar products.

Good luck with your new install, I am sure you will love your DD18 as much or more as I love my DD15.

Half

Hello Bruce, Curt, Dave, and company:

Just touching base to see if there has been any more progress on the next version of the Digital Drive Software (v2.1 or higher)? Several months ago it was discussed that it would be released shortly, but I have not seen any updates on the website.

Look forward to your reply..

Half

Soon, Very Soon! We'll post here when available.
Curt

I just bought a new HGS-12x sub. I plugged it in for the first time today. It seems to sound great, but if I put my ear close to it, I hear a quiet buzz coming from the speaker. This buzz remains even when the only thing connected to the subwoofer is the power cord. Is this normal? You can't hear it from the listening position, only up close. It does sound like the most prominent frequency is 60 or 120 Hz, but since it happens with only the power cord connected, I'm not sure what to try to get rid of it. Thanks.

Hi,
Yes this is normal for the HGS series subwoofers. It's residual noise from the analog servo feedback circuit. It is only audible up close.
Thanks,
Curt

I am an owner of a CT-150 sub and would like to know if anyone has a copy of the owners manual that I could get a copy of. PDF format would work. Velodyne does not have it on their site.

Thanks for any info,
engtaz

Hi,
Contact our service dept. (service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2851)
They probably have one.
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

I have Magi IIIs from 1984...

My room is similar to yours.

I have two DD-15s, one by each Magi and aligned front to front. One DD-12 would probably not be enough for that room, but perhaps as your listening levels are not very high with the Magi's.

I like to use two subs, close to the mains, to prevent phase cancilation. Years ago in a smaller room I had one 12" Velodyne servo sub and in some listening, there was bass that was stronger with the sub turned off. So I then got a second 12" sub and placed beside each Magi and that was great. When those subs died, I did the same with the DD-15s.

If your second preamp outs are unbuffered or simply wired togther on the inside, then the added capacitance of the long interconnect cables may degrade the signal that the poweramp sees. You may might then notice a loss of accuracy. You can power things off and pull the cable and use an ohm meter to check the connection between the two sets of jacks.

I have my DD-15s connected to the speaker wires as my PV-5 preamp does not have a buffered output. My amp is DC coupled so it has no distortion of the type that can occur in an amp with a DC blocking capacitor in the feedback loop. So in some cases one might have to choose the lesser of two evils.

The DD subs are easy to set up, but like anything this technical, it takes a bit of time to find you way around the setup screens. I have the subs set with a cutoff frequency of something around 55 Hz.

Send me a PM and we can talk about Magi speaker connections, X-over upgrades etc.

Hello,
I purchased the SPL-1200r 230v model late last year. It has spent more time in the shop getting repaired that actually getting used. The problem is always the same. Shut it down one day and the next day it's dead. It has done this 3 times now and the amp section has already been replaced.

This happens after the EQ function is used. :(

They will probably replace the whole unit and will take a long time to ship. My worry is that it maybe inherent to all the SPL 230v models. The CHT-r models which they send me as temp never had this problem. :mad:

No, it has never been overdriven since the HT room is quite small.

I was under the impression that due to demand, the SMS-1 was planning to get a firmware upgrade this quarter to allow its subsonic filter and equalization to reach down to 5Hz. However I just called Velodyne and the representative there stated no firmware was planned.

Does anyone have any additional news on this? I would like to purchase the SMS-1 but won't do so until I can set the subsonic filter at 5Hz, as the current 15Hz setting will cut off my subwoofers higher than they are currently tuned at. TIA.

Hi,
We are currently working on the software update which will allow the subsonic filter to go as low as 5hz. The release will be soon and we will announce on this forum when it's available for download. Sorry for the incorrect information.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
We are currently working on the software update which will allow the subsonic filter to go as low as 5hz. The release will be soon and we will announce on this forum when it's available for download. Sorry for the incorrect information.
Thanks,
Curt

Curt,

Will this update be available for the DD series software as well?

Hi,
This will apply to the SMS-1 unit. 15hz is the proper subsonic filter for the DD-15 and DD-18 and 20hz is usually a good number for the DD-10 and DD-12.
Curt

Thank you, Curt.

Any ideas about the SPL-1200r 230v version issue/defect? It would really be irritating if this unit will keep going back to the shop every few weeks for the rest of it's warranty period.

I got it delivered to me in november and sent back the very next day for repairs. It has spent more time being fixed than actually being used. It's late february and I believe I only got to use it for a monthaccumulatively :(

serial no. 651571001

Hi,
Please contact our service manager David Santos (dave.santos@velodyne.com or 408-465-2819). I am not aware of any defect with the 230 volt SPL-R. David will need to know what country you're in and who has been doing the repair work.
Thanks,
Curt

Ok, just sent the email. Hope they can help.

I'm about ready to give up on this. :(

Btw, if the amp section has been replaced, would the serial number be different from the one at the box or the same?

Hi,
Yes this is normal for the HGS series subwoofers. It's residual noise from the analog servo feedback circuit. It is only audible up close.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt,

Thanks for the quick response. I was playing with it today and there are actually some high frequencies in the hum which I can hear all around the room. They are not very loud, but noticeable. It's an irregular high-frequency warble sound. I can't hear the low hum from more than a couple of feet away, but is the rest normal?

Hi,
The normal sound is usually described as a "rushing" sound and can be audible within a couple of feet. If you're hearing sound all around the room then disconnect the inputs and if the sound persists return the unit for exchange or call Velodyne service.
Curt

Hi,
The normal sound is usually described as a "rushing" sound and can be audible within a couple of feet. If you're hearing sound all around the room then disconnect the inputs and if the sound persists return the unit for exchange or call Velodyne service.
Curt

Curt, by "rushing" do you mean like white noise? This sounds more like 60-cycle hum, plus some higher frequencies. It doesn't sound at all like white noise; it's more of a buzzing sound.

EDIT: nevermind this post, we just spoke on the phone. Thanks for the good service.

OK, perhaps I'm obsessing about this. I recorded the subwoofer while powering it on. I used a Shure KSM-32 condensor mic (placed right up to the grill) through a presonus firebox to my powerbook. The first low rumbling sound is just the power-on sound. Then it quickly dies down to a low buzzing noise. Can you listen to the attached file? Is the buzzing sound anything like what you'd expect the amp to normally sound like? There was nothing plugged into the subwoofer except the power cord. Thanks very much.

BTW if you plot the spectrum you'll see the peaks occur at 60Hz and multiples of 60Hz.

Hey guys,
I'm new to this forum and very excited to of found it because I need some guidance. I hope you guys can help me out.

I just purchased a Velo dls4000r and have been pretty pleased with it so far. I've had it for about a week. The room where this sub is in is 15'wide by 40' long with 8' ceilings (the ht room runs into a big kitchen the whole room is one big rectangle) . The dls4000 does go down low and I like that very much. The only thing that is bugging me is that the sub is not giving me that "punch". I know the term is kinda vague but I just don't feel the bass. I would like to feel it as well as hear it. I have calibrated all aspects of the sub as well as integrated it as best to my knowledge to the rest of my system. I have done extensive research on the internet about proper sub calibration so I feel I have the sub as calibrated to the best of my abilities.

You guys think that maybe Im not getting that "punch" from the sub because of the large room that it's in? Perhaps to big to pressurize?

Maybe a bigger better sub is the solution. Thus, I may take the dls4000r back to and get the dls-50000r instead. I've read great reviews on it. Not many reviews about it are out, but all the ones I've come accross have been encouraging.

Does anyone own the dls-5000r? If so would you share your thoughts about this sub to me? Also, I would like to know if anyone's ever looked inside the dls5000r cabinet and looked at the driver spider. Is it a thick metal type similar to the svs spider's or a flat metal type (my dls4000r spider is flat)? Finally is the cone surround of the dls5000r rubber or foam. I want to know more about the dls-5000r driver structure/materials. Because if the dls5000 driver is a better quality driver my dls4000r driver I will definitely get the dls5000r. I know the dls4000r is a quality sub, but I'm thinking the dls5000r is a much better sub. I just don't want to shell out the extra clams if the 5000r performance and driver is only a small improvement over my dls4000r.
Of course my wife thinks I'm crazy thinking about a bigger sub and that the dls4000r is just fine. They just don't understand...do they guys? :)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
Yes your room size calls for a much larger subwoofer. I would start with a DLS-5000R and add a second one if necessary. The DLS-5000R will provide much better performance in your large room than the DLS-4000R. Believe me, it's worth the extra money. The driver has treated foam surround. We have not had any issues with this robust, reliable driver. The DLS-5000R has the class D amplifier technology from the SPL series. The DLS-5000R has been so well received we're constantly back ordered.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
Wow that was a fast response. Thank you so much! Wow, now I'm really excited about that 5000r. I'm definitely going to exchange my 4000r for the 5000r. I hope my dealer will have it in stock and not on backorder. If not, I'm sure the wait will be well worth it.

I didn't know that the class D amp has similar technology as the amps used in the SPL subs. The 5000r is sounding better and better. As you mentioned the 5000r has a class D amplifier. Other than the output wattage difference between the 5000r and 4000r how is the class D amplifier better/different than the non class D amplifier used to power my 4000r?
Thanks Curt!

Hi,
Class D amps are ideal for subwoofer use in that they are very efficient, about 95% in our design. They generate almost no heat and can be both compact and very powerful at the same time. Currently they are more expensive than the more common class AB amps. It is 'state of the art' amplifier design especially for subwoofer use. Many receivers and audio power amps now use the class D design.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141 or curt@velodyne.com

Hi,

Thanks for the response. I hope my problem can finally get sorted out.

One question, is the CHT-15r identical to the Dls5000r in all features?

Yes it is.
Curt

Anyone removed the amp from a DD before? I have an RMA to return the amp section of my DD-18 to Velodyne. The tech was going to send me an email with how to instructions but I haven't gotten it yet and was hoping to have it disassembled for shipping by tommorrow morning. If anyone has these instructions or has done it themselves, please drop me a PM. I remember him saying to remove the 12 philips head screws, which I did, but the amp panel still seems firmly attached. There are 9 hex screws and some smaller philips head ones left. I certainly don't want to remove anything I shouldn't so that's why I'm asking for direction.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

Jeff

I sent my complete unit a DD-18 two weeks ago. It bothers me to find out that there are more amps that are failing.
Are there others willing to share their amp failure experiences.

Thanks

LAT

Mine had an issue with a "popping" noise that would occur during movie or TV viewing (I didn't really notice it during music playback) when the bass signals had a lot of stop/start. At the beginning of each, a low "pop" would eminate from the sub. It is just loud enough to be easily heard at the listening position and thoroughly annoying enough to turn the sub off.

I tried troubleshooting by changing cables, trying different inputs on the sub, different outputs from my MC-12, using a different source altogether (a DVD player with 5.1 analog outs), etc. The problem appeared regardless of what I changed. So, I contacted support and they're having me send the amp in. Hopefully it can be fixed without having to send the whole thing in. That's just a huge PITA but I'd be willing to do it to get it fixed. As is, the sub's unusable for TV and movies.

Jeff

Jeff

I sent my complete unit a DD-18 two weeks ago. It bothers me to find out that there are more amps that are failing.
Are there others willing to share their amp failure experiences.

Thanks

LAT

If at all possible can we avoid turning this into YET ANOTHER whining and moaning thread? The forum has enough of them. No product is perfect and there are going to be failures. Lets be thankful that Velodyne has taken a proactive approach to customer service and Curt et al have been very helpful at getting problems resolved.

Let me share my "my product is working as advertised" experience.

I purchased the SPL1200R after comparing it with the Pdigm S12. It has performed wonderfully with both movies and music.

Are there others willing to share their my sub is working experiences?

I agree about Curt, he has been great.

However having said that, To celebrate that a sub works is kind redundant don't you think. They are supposed to work, that is what we pay for.

I wanted to hear about the others who may have issues. I may decide to sell mine after it is repaired. This kind of faliure has given me no great comfort in knowing the Velodyne Cadilac unit blew up. Next time in 6 months it would be on my tab.

My 2 cents

LAT

If at all possible can we avoid turning this into YET ANOTHER whining and moaning thread? The forum has enough of them. No product is perfect and there are going to be failures. Lets be thankful that Velodyne has taken a proactive approach to customer service and Curt et al have been very helpful at getting problems resolved.

Fair enough, but sometimes people want to know if they have a unique problem or if what they are experiencing is even a problem at all. This is a support thread so it does seem appropriate for people to post their problems here. As long as people aren't bashing Velo, I really don't see a problem with doing that.

Jeff

This kind of faliure has given me no great comfort in knowing the Velodyne Cadilac unit blew up. Next time in 6 months it would be on my tab.

My 2 cents

LAT

You must be new to the world of Harleys. :D :D

I purchased the SPL1200R after comparing it with the Pdigm S12. It has performed wonderfully with both movies and music.

Are there others willing to share their my sub is working experiences?

Well, don't rub it in. I have a protracted horror story with my SPL-1200r.

Sure 99.9% of velo products are probably great and without trouble. But if you're the one that gets that .1% that has bugs. That product is 100% flawed to you. :(

I think I'm gonna need to recheck the math on that. I remember learning it somewhere....100% - 99.9%...

I think I'm gonna need to recheck the math on that. I remember learning it somewhere....100% - 99.9%...

It's just an abstract comparison, not to be taken literally. :P

If Curt or someone could give me some info on these two subs I would greatly appreciate it.
What are the differences between the SPL800R and Minivee? Other than the cabinet finishes and no dps control for the Minivee?
Also, do they both put out the same spl's. Are the drivers identical? I like the sub's size, especially the wife, but I can really only afford the Minivee and I wanted to know how much I would be missing out on by not getting the SPL800R. I hope the audible difference is nill.
Thanks fellas!

Yes the two units share the same amp and driver and will play about the same (output) level. The DSP provides presets along with auto room eq. and other features. And of course the hand held remote is extremely useful for making changes from the listening position. They are both superb very small subwoofers meant for small rooms. If in doubt about room size, please see www.velodyne.com and look under 'which product', 'subwoofer recommendations'.
Thanks,
Curt

Hey Curt,
Thanks again for the prompt reply! Great custormer service.

I just purchased the DLS4000r and I'm very pleased with its performance, however the wife wants something smaller in size "if possible".
I have never heard the Minivee but based on what Curt has said and reviews I'm sure it is a terrific sub.
However, I would like to know:
1. The new ht room is about 1800 cubic feet. Would the Minivee out perform the 4000r in terms of SPL and sound quality?
2. I configured the 4000r in the room where the bass is powerful and gives me that punch I wanted to feel as well as hear. Would the Minivee produce the similar results?
3. I'm kind of hoping that if I do get the Minivee it will produce tighter cleaner bass notes that the 4000r produces. Is this a possibility?
Finally, from my dealer both subs are priced about the same so cost between the two isn't an issue.

Thank you very much in advance.

No, No and Yes.
The MiniVee cannot play near as loud as the DLS-4000R. It will not be able to provide the same punch in your room. The MiniVee will sound a little tighter and cleaner. The MiniVee should be about $200 more than the DLS-4000R. If you want it all, size and quantity look at the SPL-1000R or better yet the SPL-1200R. If price is a limiting factor, perhaps your dealer will let you demo the MiniVee and see what you think.
Curt

Hey folks,
I wanted to know if any of you guys own or have owned the Velodyne Minivee? If so would you mind sharing your thoughts/experiences on this little sub?
Any information would be greatly appreciated! :D

Hey Curt,
Is the 8"driver and amp. in the Minivee most similar to which one of these subs.
The spl-8, spl800, spl-800II, or the spl-800r? Hopefully I got the model numbers correct. I didn't know how many versions of spl 8" subs they were until I did more research.
I ordered the Minivee today and it should be delivered to my door step in about ten days. I'm really looking forward to finding out what the Minivee will do. I believe it will be exactly what I'm looking for...especially for music.
Thanks Curt,
Augusto

Actually the amp and driver of the MiniVee is similar to all (there never was a SPL-8) the above mentioned models. For their size these are incredibly accurate subwoofers. They still amaze me. Just don't use them in large rooms.
Thanks,
Curt

Thank you so much Curt for all your speedy information.
Augusto

Hey Curt,
Just one more question. I understand the Minivee is a small sub. So when you mentioned just don't use it in a large room, what is the max size of the room the Minivee would still be able to perform well or as designed? I wanted to know for future reference.
Thanks again Curt,
Augusto

I just discovered this thread. You guys are making me drool. I would love to get a more modern sub, like a DD-15 or DD-18, that can be EQ-ed to my room, but I can't really justify it from a budget standpoint.

I own a UDL-15 which I bought in the early '70s, from Century Stereo here in San Jose, CA. I got a good deal on it (it was a store demo unit). It had a problem about 2 years after I bought it, and Velodyne fixed it free of charge (Thank you Bruce :D). Now, over 30 years later, it's still going strong. I would like a little more punch (about a 2800 cu. ft. room with an arch into the hallway), I haven't turned it up high enough to rattle my windows yet (I could do that easily, in my old house with a smaller room).

Hey Curt,
Just one more question. I understand the Minivee is a small sub. So when you mentioned just don't use it in a large room, what is the max size of the room the Minivee would still be able to perform well or as designed? I wanted to know for future reference.
Thanks again Curt,
Augusto

Hi,
On our subwoofer recommendations section (www.velodyne.com) we show a maximum of 2500 cubic feet counting the room plus all open space the room opens into. To perform really well I would say under 2000 cubic feet.
Curt

For Space Consideration Reasons In A Customers Den, I Recently Used A Minivee W/ An Sms1. Very Pleased With The Result, But Not A Big Room (14x10x8)

I posted this back on 01/06/2006 in the Velodyne EQ thread but received no reponses. I guess that was the wrong thread to post my question. Therefore, I will repost my orignal below:

Hello... long time lurker here, but just registered.

I have had the Velodyne SMS-1 for about a couple of weeks now and am very satisfied with its performance. It has made a big difference integrating my two subs, a SVS PB12-Ultra and an Onix UFW-10, into my problematic family room doing double duty as my HT room.

One thing that I have just recently noticed is that since I have installed my SMS-1 into my HT system, I am getting some video interference on some of my analog cable channels. The interference is in the form of some vertical or diagonal lines, spaced closely together, across the entire screen of my 65" Mits RPTV, superimposed over large boxes scrolling left to right across the screen. Within those scrolling large boxes, I can see a faint image of the Velodyne initial menu screen, even though I am watching cable TV... weird.

At first, I though the problem might be related to some power cables being too close to the interconnects. I checked them out, and adjusted if necessary... problem not solved. Next I swapped the supplied, yellow composite video cable with a Svideo cable... the problem was still there, although less visible, and on less analog channels... some progress made. I then decided to just turn off the SMS-1 while viewing a problem analog cable channel... voila, problem disappeared.

Any thoughts on to eliminate this video interference without having to turn off the SMS-1?

Thanks.

Please note that since my orignal post, I no longer have that faint box with the SMS-1 startup screen, but I still do have those closely spaced lines. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ok, my living room is about 15'x28' with 10' ceilings. The living room is pretty much completely open to the kitchen which is about 11'x28' with 9' ceilings. I have hard wood floors in living room and ceramic tile in kitchen. I dont have much furniture or decorations yet so the room is pretty bare. The subwoofer is located againsts living room wall which faces living room/kitchen. It is also right next to hallway opening.

Basically, the output is weak and doesn't have the punch (like you would expect from an 18") that I can feel or hear. It defenitly shakes the walls though.

Any suggestions on what I can do to get more out of this sub. Should I try and place it behind sofa? In corner? On back wall in kitchen? Away from hallway opening? Point it in defferent direction?

Also, I am dissapointed with overall sound (has echo sound) of my system which I think has to do with bare walls/no crap in room/hard floors. What should I do to get better sound.

I have a Polk LSi system and Onkyo TX-NR1000.

Ok, my living room is about 15'x28' with 10' ceilings. The living room is pretty much completely open to the kitchen which is about 11'x28' with 9' ceilings. I have hard wood floors in living room and ceramic tile in kitchen. I dont have much furniture or decorations yet so the room is pretty bare. The subwoofer is located againsts living room wall which faces living room/kitchen. It is also right next to hallway opening.

Basically, the output is weak and doesn't have the punch (like you would expect from an 18") that I can feel or hear. It defenitly shakes the walls though.

Any suggestions on what I can do to get more out of this sub. Should I try and place it behind sofa? In corner? On back wall in kitchen? Away from hallway opening? Point it in defferent direction?

Also, I am dissapointed with overall sound (has echo sound) of my system which I think has to do with bare walls/no crap in room/hard floors. What should I do to get better sound.

I have a Polk LSi system and Onkyo TX-NR1000.

Your lack of "punch" is definitely caused my the room's acoustics and size. The ability to feel the sub's output comes from the room being pressurized by the driver's movements. Unfortunately due to the rooms large (4200 cu/ft) size and multiple openings to the rest of the house you are not going to be able to achieve this without having multiple subs, and even then you are likely to be somewhat disappointed.

As to the system having an "echo sound" this is definitely caused by the combination of the system placement, room size, hard floors, bare walls, etc.. Your only option to cure this would also be to figure out a way to isolate the room from the rest of the house, and apply acoustic room treatments. Just making the listening area enclosed and smaller would make a big difference, but the hard surfaces will still cause issues with acoustics.

You have EXCELLENT gear, but your room is definitely holding you back from hearing it's potential. Wish I had a easy solution, but short of a remodel your best bet would be to move it to a smaller room if possible. Another thing you can do with the sub placement is to get it away from any openings and possibly into a corner to allow for more "room gain" which couldn't hurt in your situation.

Good luck,

Half

DALBA,

Have you used the equalizer function of this sub?

Hi, thanks for the replies so far. Yes, I ran the auto-eq.

Hi,
Actually you have about 7000 cubic feet or possibly more. That requires a couple of DD-18's at least. As Half suggested experiment with placement. Is there a corner available in the living room?
Curt

Hi, thanks for the replies so far. Yes, I ran the auto-eq.


Are you equalized such that the sub is at the same level as your mains?

If so, raise the volume of the sub by 5-6 dbs.

Hi,
Another good idea. Maybe by 10. It's in the manual.
Curt

Just an odd question.

Is it ok to place the subwoofer on a low 'wheeled' platform or will it effect the sound quality?

Hi,
A subwoofer likes boundaries, as on the floor. You could try and see what effect it has. The closer to the floor, the better.
Curt (480) 595-7141

Ok, thanks. :)

I'm just considering putting wheels on heavier subs, just so it would be easier to move around.

Hi,
Actually you have about 7000 cubic feet or possibly more. That requires a couple of DD-18's at least. As Half suggested experiment with placement. Is there a corner available in the living room?
Curt

:eek: Oops :eek: , I should have read his measurements a little closer Curt, I missed the dimensions on the kitchen!

Half
:o

Yes you did!
Take Care.
Curt

I have a chance to pick up Velodyne F-1800RII and I have read that it has a low hum is this true and if it is what is suggested to eleviate the hum. Any info on this sub would be appreciated.

Thanks

Hi,
A few units hummed under certain conditions. This was usually eliminated by using a cheater plug (3 to 2 AC adapter). Ask the seller if it hums.
Curt

DAlba -- The fact that you have it placed right next to a hallway opening is really hurting your DD-18's output (it's like running it outdoors). Like Curt said, you should place it in a corner with solid walls on each side (which will act like a bass horn). If you have a solid wall, you could experiment with moving the DD-18 along that wall towards your listening area.

I assume that your sofa is where you sit. Try placing it behind the sofa (of course you have to re-EQ with each move). Like Halfrican said, your bare room isn't helping either, try, at least, a large throw rug on the floor (with your present setup you have tons of room reflections which are killing your Polk's as well as the DD-18 audio outputs). With 7000 cubic feet, one sub probably won't cut it either - too much volume to pressurize.

Your "echo"s are due to the room reflections off the bare walls, ceilings, and floors.

More excellent advice!!!
Curt

DAlba, French doors for the kitchen and hall way openings could also be your best friends.

had the ct-150 for 6 years now works great
getting upgrade bug for hgs 15 or dd-15
just want to commend the folks at velodyne
for a great product.

Hi,
Actually you have about 7000 cubic feet or possibly more. That requires a couple of DD-18's at least. As Half suggested experiment with placement. Is there a corner available in the living room?
Curt


Well, I have one corner where my fireplace is but its not a 90 degree corner....more like 45 degrees but its the only area that has a wall on both ends with no opening nearby. But I dont want to put it too close to fireplace becuase of the heat so I really cant put it in corner:(

DAlba -- The fact that you have it placed right next to a hallway opening is really hurting your DD-18's output (it's like running it outdoors). Like Curt said, you should place it in a corner with solid walls on each side (which will act like a bass horn). If you have a solid wall, you could experiment with moving the DD-18 along that wall towards your listening area.

I assume that your sofa is where you sit. Try placing it behind the sofa (of course you have to re-EQ with each move). Like Halfrican said, your bare room isn't helping either, try, at least, a large throw rug on the floor (with your present setup you have tons of room reflections which are killing your Polk's as well as the DD-18 audio outputs). With 7000 cubic feet, one sub probably won't cut it either - too much volume to pressurize.

Your "echo"s are due to the room reflections off the bare walls, ceilings, and floors.

Great advice....the back wall behind my sofa is pretty much non existant. Basically there is about 4 feet of wall where there should be 28 feet. Essentially putting the subwoofer behind my sofa would be like putting the sub in the center of a 7000 sq ft room with no walls near it. But it would be right near my ear drum...so I wonder what the results should be???

It's really hard to judge (guess?), but one AVS member put his sub (not Velodyne) behind his couch (in the middle of a Family Room) and it worked out good for him.

I agree with the fireplace bit. If you have a solid wall between your display and your couch, you could try to put the DD-18 along that wall (not as good as a corner, but it may be better than where you have it. Try it about 1/3 and 2/3 of the distance (roughly) between the front of your HT area and your couch. That gets it closer to you and along a solid wall (not as good as a corner, but possibly better than behind the couch (out in the middle of nowhere :rolleyes: ).

You have an unusual enough room that, short of having the room calibrated, you'll have to experiment with the DD-18 placement to see where the best placement will be.

NOTE: You could also try the trick of placing the sub just in front of the couch (or in the middle of your listening position) and walking around the room (along the walls) to see where it sounds best. After you find what sounds like the a good position, put the sub there (swap positions) and then sit on the couch and listen.

I've recently replaced my old F1800R-II with a new DD-15, and I'm very happy. However I have a huge old sub in a beautiful cabinet sitting in my garage. I'm thinking that the power supply went bad in it since it started humming more and more and finally got to the point where it was popping randomly and quite loudly and I couldn't take it anymore. The first symptom that I noticed was that it wouldn't power on out of standby anymore no matter how loud the input signal I fed it.

So I think that the driver is fine (and the cabinet is too). Any suggestions on what I can do with this thing? Velodyne has told me that they don't make replacement parts for it anymore. Third party amps/power supplies maybe?

TIA for any suggestions.

I have a chance to pick up Velodyne F-1800RII and I have read that it has a low hum is this true and if it is what is suggested to eleviate the hum. Any info on this sub would be appreciated.

Thanks

See my recent post. Mine always had that low-level hum (worse at some times than others, and definitely got worse as it got older). I think the PS has always been screwy from the beginning. My new DD-15 is dead quiet with no signal going through it.

Good luck and let me know if you find out any information.

In my current set-up I am running most of my components through a line conditioner and voltage regulator, including a separate 7 channel amp, all on a dedicated line. The exception is that I am running the subwoofer's power cord to the other of two outlets connected to the dedicated line, (so its ac receives no conditioning, regulation, OR surge protection....oops). I am upgrading many components in my home theater remodel and am considering the DD-18 as a replacement for my 15y/o DefTech powerfield 15". (Maybe I'm hoping lightning Will strike(?) ;) ).

What are Velodyne's recommendations regarding the need for an entirely separate ac circuit for the DD-18? I should mention that another separate line is Not a problem to run.

Thanks

Hi,
Since you have no problem running it, I would go with a dedicated 20amp circuit. While a dedicated 15amp circuit is certainly adequate for the DD-18, I'd go bigger given a choice.
Curt

Thanks Curt.

If I may ask another related question; What gauge do you recommend for the line and do you also recommend that it be filtered or 'conditioned', (i.e. attached to a line conditioner), or even run through a voltage regulator?

I realize that the answers to these questions may not fall within the parameters of what Velodyne considers 'general recommendations' but if acting upon these considerations can make a positive difference in the performance of the DD-18 then I will do it!

Thanks Again.

Mark

Hi,
As to the gauge of the electrical wire, that would be up to the electrician and code requirements. And I have no recommendations as to line conditioners, etc.
Others may.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi,
As to the gauge of the electrical wire, that would be up to the electrician and code requirements. And I have no recommendations as to line conditioners, etc.
Others may.
Thanks,
Curt

My general impression and understanding of A/C filtration,conditioning, and regulation is simply:

"Don't treat any problem without first identifying if you have one"

Most if not all "solutions" to these "problems" usually introduce some degradation in performance in other areas. If you don't have a noise issue, than filtering/conditioning it is useless. Likewise if you have voltage that maintains levels of at least 110v than you are not likely to hear much improvement with a regulator either.

Most if not all power supplies in high quality home electronics are designed to be over-built and are more than capable of filtering and dealing with variations in voltage, if not than there is likely a problem with their operation.

If, however, your home does experience severe EMI/RFI noise (that can't be addressed with proper cable quality and placement) and/or severe voltage regulation issues that hinder performance than these "fixes" may be your best solution. Please keep in mind that your dedicated circuits are likely eliminating many of these issues already. The biggest concern you are likely to have with dedicated circuits is the possiblity of "ground loops" caused by the multiple ground paths, but these can be elminated both by proper installation of your circuits and by isolators if necessary.

I myself have three dedicated 20 amp circuits (one for front end components, one for my system amplifier, and one for my DD15) I have no filters/regulators in my system and no noise/voltage issues at all, YMMV.

Good luck as always...

Half

Sounds like good advice to me.
Curt

I have a CT-150 that UPS (universal parcel smasher) smashed up. It is insured but they want a repair quote. The back top left corner (when looking at the back) and the front bottom left corner (when looking from the front) were dinged pretty good. The corners looked like they were dropped on. The lower front corner has a slight crack in the laminent 4" away front the corner. The Sub is working fine. It does not look or sound as if the seal of the box was broken. Thank goodness Velodyne make sturdy cabinets. Where would anyone suggest getting a repair quote??

Thanks,
engtaz

engtax

Have you thought about sending some photos to Velodyne?

Hi,
Since you have no problem running it, I would go with a dedicated 20amp circuit. While a dedicated 15amp circuit is certainly adequate for the DD-18, I'd go bigger given a choice.
Curt

Curt,

Thank you for your expert advice in answer to my questions. From the looks of it you spend a lot of your time answering questions like mine and for me this goes way beyond good customer service. It's very good to know you or someone like you is here for Velodyne. I should be taking delivery of my new DD-18 very shortly.

mark

engtaz -- Definitely contact Velodyne for possible repair costs, and include pictures if at all possible. You, at least, need their input on how the CT-150 should be repaired (to maintain the validity of the warranty).

This is why I won't use UPS for anything valuable. On the last 4 orders shipped through them, 2 were never delivered (one was several DVDs - took 9 months to replace, and the other was computer mice - 3 months to replace). The other 2 were delivered by being tossed at my front door (from 4' to 6' away - I saw the driver do it, got the truck number, and immediately reported it to UPS - those were small packages and were not damaged, fortunately).

I just purchased the DD-10, and have yet to take it out of the box. This is proving difficult. However, I think I want to exchange it for a DD-12 (I kind of hope someone can change my mind). My room is 19.5L x 12W x 7h and there is a 4x10 opening to the kitchen (tri-level). This sub would be good for this size room but we will be moving in a year or two and the house will have a greatroom setup, and I'm afraid it will then be to small. Anyway, I pre-ordered an Anthem AVM-40 and bought an MCA-50 and wonder if the bass management in the Anthem will be as good as the subs. If so, perhaps it would be wise to step down to a less expensive Velodyne? This may be a silly question and I apoligize for my ignorance as I have not bought a new sub for 6-7 years and never owned seperates. The sub purchase today was not planned, but I fell in love with it and had to have it. It will be replacing an Energy ES-12.

I just purchased the DD-10, and have yet to take it out of the box. This is proving difficult. However, I think I want to exchange it for a DD-12 (I kind of hope someone can change my mind). My room is 19.5L x 12W x 7h and there is a 4x10 opening to the kitchen (tri-level). This sub would be good for this size room but we will be moving in a year or two and the house will have a greatroom setup, and I'm afraid it will then be to small. Anyway, I pre-ordered an Anthem AVM-40 and bought an MCA-50 and wonder if the bass management in the Anthem will be as good as the subs. If so, perhaps it would be wise to step down to a less expensive Velodyne? This may be a silly question and I apoligize for my ignorance as I have not bought a new sub for 6-7 years and never owned seperates. The sub purchase today was not planned, but I fell in love with it and had to have it. It will be replacing an Energy ES-12.

1) While a DD10 would probably do "okay" I would definitely consider a DD12 or DD15 as they would give you considerably more headroom in your current setup and the DD10 will likely be undersized for your future application. You really can't have too much subwoofer!

2) In regards to bass management, I believe that you may be confusing the Anthem's "notch filter" to a that of the Digital Drive's full blown parametric eq. While the Anthem's filter is better than having no eq it can only address a single band of frequencies where the velodyne can address eight. Unless you are very lucky you will need most if not all of the Velodyne's flexibility to truly equalize your sub's in-room performance. Also only the DD series subs feature the advance digital servo control which no feature of the Anthem or any other pre-pro on the market can duplicate in regards to lower bass distortion.

3) The DD series subs are definitely in a class of their own not only in comparison with other brands, but also within the Velodyne product line. I have spent many years buying and selling "wanna be" subs in a quest for a quality and perfomance. I have finally achieved by goal with the DD series and have no inteniton to look back.

Good luck with your system.

Half

...snip...

3) The DD series subs are definitely in a class of their own not only in comparison with other brands, but also within the Velodyne product line. I have spent many years buying and selling "wanna be" subs in a quest for a quality and perfomance. I have finally achieved by goal with the DD series and have no inteniton to look back.

Good luck with your system.

Half


Its jewels like this that makes reading all the other junk worth while. Way to go Half !!! :) :) :) :)

1) While a DD10 would probably do "okay" I would definitely consider a DD12 or DD15 as they would give you considerably more headroom in your current setup and the DD10 will likely be undersized for your future application. You really can't have too much subwoofer!

2) In regards to bass management, I believe that you may be confusing the Anthem's "notch filter" to a that of the Digital Drive's full blown parametric eq. While the Anthem's filter is better than having no eq it can only address a single band of frequencies where the velodyne can address eight. Unless you are very lucky you will need most if not all of the Velodyne's flexibility to truly equalize your sub's in-room performance. Also only the DD series subs feature the advance digital servo control which no feature of the Anthem or any other pre-pro on the market can duplicate in regards to lower bass distortion.

3) The DD series subs are definitely in a class of their own not only in comparison with other brands, but also within the Velodyne product line. I have spent many years buying and selling "wanna be" subs in a quest for a quality and perfomance. I have finally achieved by goal with the DD series and have no inteniton to look back.

Good luck with your system.

Half


Thanks Half, I'll be exchanging the sub today.

All excellent advice. I totally agree.
If you know the future "great room" size, go to www.velodyne.com and under "which product" find "subwoofer recommendations" and enter the cubic displacement. Be sure to include all adjoining (open) rooms. A DD-12 is rarely large enough for a great room.
Curt

>>A DD-12 is rarely large enough for a great room.<<

Also depends upon how loud ya like to listen, no? What? Huh? Eh?

Personally, I prefer the driver flap test...if the driver's always flappin', ya need a bigger one. :)

Personally, I prefer the driver flap test...if the driver's always flappin', ya need a bigger one. :)
...if the driver's always flappin' and/or your pants aren't(!), ya need a bigger one.
:D

Kal

...if the driver's always flappin' and/or your pants aren't(!), ya need a bigger one.
:D

Kal


:D I think this quote should be entered into the hometheater bible! :D

You go Kal

Amen!!!
Curt

Agreed! :)

That would make an excellent tag line, Kal!

That's the KING of subwoofer double entendres!


I want historical credit for the unintentional setup. :)

will the dd-15 be avaliable in black ash at some point.

Curt,

Do home theater stores demo the 1812 or is it just out of their price range?

Any discussion in making it in two parts so it won't be quite so heavy?

Hi,
There are a few dealers who demo the 1812. A two piece configuration was a consideration in the original design. This design is much more than putting a twelve on top of a eighteen. There were many cancellation and phase issues to work through. In this case, weight was secondary to all out performance.
Thanks,
Curt

will the dd-15 be avaliable in black ash at some point.


For what purpose, to bring the price down or for aesthetic reasons? If to bring the price down, there's no need...especially if you know the right dealers. :)
If for aesthetic reasons, most would consider the
piano black finish to be vastly superior...I know I do.

it was more of a waf factor since she picked
black ash for the paradigms i personally will
take what is available for sq.

Understood.
Curious as to why you didn't go with the Servo-15 since you went Paradigm and wanted black ash?

With the DD-15, you wouldn't be getting b.a., but you WOULD be getting a DD-15. :)

have the ct-150 and like their stuff
room correction cain't hurt either.

I originally posted this in its own thread, but here it goes again.

Velodyne DD - DC Trigger

I have a velodyne DD-12 sub. I read a thread a while back on connecting 2 pins of the serial port to the 10V DC trigger on my amplifier. I cannot find it now. I bought the 1/8" mono miniplug to tinned ends and a null modem adapter from radio shack.

Does this work?
Which of the 9 serial pins I should connect it to?
I think polarity did not matter.

Pins 7 and 9.
Curt

I have a Velodyne ULD-15. The power servo controller seems to be shot. Where can I have it fixed? or where can I buy a replacement.

Thank you

Sheldon

Post edited
I went in to the setup menu and selected 12V trigger. I hooked up the trigger wire to pins 7 and 9. And tried reversing it for polarity but it is not working.

(((The sub says it is waiting for a 12V trigger but my processor only puts out 10V.)))

I went back and rechecked the specifications. The processor does put out 12V DC.

Any ideas why this may not be working?

Auto power mode works fine with everything except classical at a low volume so it is not that big a deal.

I went in to the setup menu and selected 12V trigger. I hooked up the trigger wire to pins 7 and 9. And tried reversing it for polarity but it is not working.
The sub says it is waiting for a 12V trigger but my processor only puts out 10V. Could this be the problem.
Thanks


I am using the 12v trigger option on my dd15 without issues, but the trigger on my pre-pro is 12v. Polarity definitely doesn't matter so it is possible that the voltage is an issue. Sounds like you may be forced to use the auto power mode, but actually it works well as long as you have your sub pre-out level set high enough.

Good luck,

Half

Drlestat -- That's what I have too, mine's still working just fine. I've had mine for about 30 years. You need to email Velodyne, or maybe Curt can answer your question. Mine had a failure, after I had it for a couple of years, and Velodyne fixed it for free (but they're local to me and I bought it from a local authorized dealer).

Hi,
I sent DJSloan a PM.
Curt

Hi,

I have a Velodyne HGS-10 which is 5 years old and it recently started making a popping noise which continues if the A/V receiver is switched off or if the audio inputs into the HGS-10 are disconnected. After powering the sub down for several hours it works again for a while before beginning to make the popping sounds.

Any idea what is going on?

Thanks,
dabolts

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Curt

Curt,

Is there really any difference between an HGS 15 with a SMS-1 compared to a DD15?

Hi,
Yes there are differences. The servo in the HGS is analog so the sampling rate is slower. The digital servo is speed adjustable and dead quite. The DD, due to some software advantages can play a bit louder, model for model. The DD cabinets are real veneer or lacquer. If you already own a HGS, then adding the SMS-1 makes a fine upgrade.
Thanks,
Curt

Got my new Genelec 7073a sub and started calibrating. I've noticed an interesting phenomenon trying to flatten a dip between 63 and 80 Hz. I have three filters close together with 6dB boost. I know that boosting is frowned upon but this sub can handle boost at any sane listening level i.e. 105+ dB peak levels.

With a filter at 76Hz L6.0 if I change the Q from .3 to 2 I see a tremendous change in dB level beginning around 20Hz. Why would a mod at 76 Hz have such a large effect at much lower frequencies? Can someone educate me?

I am moving to a country with 240v electricity. My dealer told me I could send the amp section of my DD-12 back to Velodyne to have them convert it to 240v, is that correct. I really don't want to ship the entire subwoofer as it is so heavy.

Yes that is correct. Contact Velodyne service at; 408-465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Curt

Hello Curt at Velodyne
I recently purchased a used HGS-18 to replace my M&K MX-350
The sub did not come with any manual. Can I download a users manual for this sub somewhere?
It also did not come with a power cord. I am currently using a standard computer power cord which seems to work fine. It fits the male socket perfectly.
Is this type of power cord OK to use to power the HGS-18?

And last:
I was playing War of the Worlds in DTS last night and during one of the heavy bass scenes, I heard the HGS pop very bad. :(
The master volume on the back of the sub was set to 50%
It was a very loud pop which I never heard with my M&K
I later figured out that the internal volume, which is adjusted with the remote was at max.
Can you explain if this is normal, or am I running the sub too loud?
I am running the sub with a Lexicon DC-2. The output level of the sub is set to 0.00 in the Lexicon's output level screen.
Also, the sub level in the DTS effects menu is set to 0.00
This is where I always ran the levels with the M&K.
Now, I have the sub at 40% master volume in the rear, and have the remote volume set to roughly 50%
Now there are no more "pops" coming from the sub.
I also need to unsderstand all the switch settings on the rear of the sub.

I also may want to purchase a remote control extender for it, as I see a plug in the back for one.
Does this extender have a blue light on it to indicate the sub is recieving the signals, and if so, does it flash with different frequencies to let you know where you are in the volume adjustment range, like the blue led does on the sub?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

UPDATE:
I found the manual on the Velodyne web site.

Velodyne FSR-18 any info plus or minus on this sub.
Thanks engtaz

Velodyne FSR-18 any info plus or minus on this sub.
Thanks engtaz
Hi
I have a F1500-B 15" sub. If the FSR-18 you are asking about is anything like the F1500, it cant handle home theater very well. My F1500 sub kept switching itself off during movies with heavy LFE sound effects. The problem with mine was that it would not self reset, and required a power off/on cycle with the rear switch to reset the sub.
So I had to run the sub on only 2 (out of 10) to keep it from cutting itself off during movies.
With music audio it is great, but it was not made for today's Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS soundtracks.
I dont know about your particular model, but the F Series subs dont do well in Home Theater.

As my previous post above yours states, I now have a HGS-18 and it shakes the house for movies and is made for it.
Maybe someone from Velodyne could respond about your question.

No, the FSR-18 is not like your older design F-1500. It is very much like the HGS-18, sharing amp and driver design. Unless the area is too large it will do music and H/T just fine.
Curt

I have an FSR-18 and am very pleased with it. I just had a couple of boards replaced (after 6 years of successful woofing) via Velodyne for $275.00.

I'm sure the later models (HGS and DD units) of comparable size would outperform the FSR. The FSR is roughly a 10 year old model, so I hope you're getting it for a good price.

I'm still using mine for movies and music and don't feel the need to upgrade.

SPL 1000R - Brand New - Loud Fan type noise

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I just setup a brand new out of the box Velodyne SPL-1000R and there seems to be a fan noise coming from the unit. I am sitting about 9 feet away and I can here it. It almost sounds like a humidifier with a fan. Once I got up close It was very noticeable that is coming from within the Velodyne Sub. It is loud enough to the point where I am thinking for returning it unless it is just a defect. Are there fans inside? Being to new to Velodyne, is this a normal sound? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

BTW..This is hooked up to a Denon 3606 with 5 Anthony Gallo A Diva TI Sats.

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt

Hi,
After some consideration I decided to replace the amp in my HGS 12 with a new (since the old broke).
Now I cant remember how the 8 pin male servo-control (I think) socket were connected with the female.... Is the circuit on the cord pointing up or down?

Thanks for any help I can get... /Peter

Peter,
Contact Velodyne service at; service@velodyne.com or (408) 465-2851.
Curt

Curt,

I have an old ULD series II servo controller amplifier with a ULD-15S7 sub that is still kicking. It has been used probably an average of 1 hour everyday (if not more) since it was bought 15+ years ago. We have moved houses about 4 times since then also, still kicking. I painted it black to match the decor of my house. It would make a nice table except everything just rattles right off! The new DD subs sound so tempting, but i'll probably wait till this one kicks the bucket. Maybe it'll be another 15 years. Just wanted to say thanks for making a great product.

The sound was strange to them as well I'm get a new one which I will test and reply back to this thread, but i'm sure all will be great with this kick a** sub.

Curt - 1st. post here.
I have a DD-18 which I am VERY happy with.
I have never updated the software, I am currently running 1.5
I know there have been versions in between 1.5 and the current 2.0 update on your website. This is probably a stupid question, but will there be any problem for me to go straight from 1.5 to 2.0?
And since it hasn't been asked in a couple of weeks any timeline for 2.1 release?

My 5.1 HT room is a 35 x 31 x 7'- 8" finished basement (concrete floor). It a fairly live room. All the equipment is along of one of the 35' walls and closer to one end. The seating is also at this end of the room. If I wished to move the sub into a corner it would have to be on the other end of this wall. Which would put the sub approx. 15+ feet from the midpoint of the HT and 20+ feet or so from the central listening position. Any problems with placing the sub this far away? Does it matter whether I face it forward (same direction as the mains) or on the other side of the corner turned 90 degrees from the mains but pointed more directly towards the listeners? This also means I would need about a 15 to 20 foot power cord so I could plug it into the dedicated circuit I had run for the HT. Any problem with this? Do you offer longer power cords? I would prefer not using an extension cord (hey I'm anal).

My mains are Klipsch Chorus (15 in. woofers and very efficient),
FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
45Hz-20kHz±3dB
SENSITIVITY:
101dB @ 1watt/1meter

center Klipsch Academy,
FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
65Hz-20kHz±3dB
SENSITIVITY:
96dB @ 1watt/1meter

rears Klipsch Heresy III's (also efficient),
FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
58Hz-20kHz±3dB
SENSITIVITY:
99dB @ 1watt/1meter

I have the mains set to large, the center to small, and the rears to large. My amp is a 200 x 5 Rotel 1095 and it is loafing virtually all the time due to the efficiency of the Klipsch. I realize I probably should set the rears to small but I am still goofing around with everything. Would you agree with these settings?

At first I was running everything 0db - but have since changed the DD-18 to +3 and it sounds much better. Again, probably due to the efficiency of the Klipsch (I think). Volume almost always at the default of 30. I will continue to experiment, I am thinking about going a bit higher with the sub - any thoughts?

I have the Rotel pre-pro's sub setting at 80hz as well as the DD-18 set to 80HZ. From what I can tell from previous postings this is probably wrong and I should only have one of these set to 80hz (probably the pre pro) and the sub set much higher. Am I correct in this thinking? The pre-pro has a setting for the sub called Full or All or something like that which means the sub is always getting its appropriate low freq. signals whether LFE channel or not.

I know I will have lots more questions in the future as I find the time to tweak and set up everything properly. I just want to thank you and Velodyne before hand for a great product and very impressive customer service.

Jim

Hi,
You can go direct to 2.0 software. Regarding 2.2, all I can say is soon.
As to location the corner will probably be fine. Try it and see. There are long heavy gauge power cords available at any hardware store. We don't offer longer cords.
Personally I would call all your speakers "small" to avoid interference with the sub, but if it sounds better to you at "large", no problem. I have large towers and they are more dynamic and cleaner in the upper bass when designated "small" and crossed over to the eighteen at 80hz. If your pre/pro is set to 80hz then set the DD to 199 or bypass on the newer software. You might want to give me a call on some of these issues.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141

Curt,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I will be calling you - you may be sorry for giving me your #
Jim

Hi,
Contact Velodyne service at (408) 465-2851 or service@velodyne.com.
Curt

Sorry for not responding sooner...

Thanks Curt!

Curt,

Is Velodyne coming out with a sub that falls between the DD-18 and the DD-1812 or just updating the DD-18??

Hi,
There are no plans for a between product. There will be continuing software updates for the DD's as new features are required.
Curt

Hello,

Just would like to follow up on my problem with the defective Spl-1200r. Up to now there is still no news of resolution. Should I just consider this a lost cause?

This is getting ridiculous. It has been in 'repair' since January and it's April already. No one seems to have any idea what to do with it. Is it going to be repaired, replaced or just abandoned all together.

I think I have been more than patient, maybe stupidly so.
:(
Thanks for your time.

Hi guys, great support forum. I've been reading everything since it started, and have learned a lot both with my F1800, as well as subs in general.

I've got some problems with my sub though.
1. The remote works, I've checked and it's sending, but the sub seems to be ignoring it. Is this a common problem? Can it be fixed by myself?

2. If everything else is on, and I turn the sub on, my circuit break (20A, 230V) trips. I have to turn everything else off, then the sub on, then everything else on. Is this normal?

3. I've owned (all used) FSR-10, FSR-12, HGS-12, and this F1800RII. All of these except the FSR-10 had obvioulsy been repaired. The FSR-12 and F1800RII have a clear 'ring' of glue around the dustcap. Looks like dried PVA glue. The HGS-12 had no only had the amp replaced, but the driver's voice coil was replaced as well. This surprises me a lot, since these subs looks like they're built very well, and should be able to handel huge amounts of power. I would've though it'd be a struggle to damage them! Are these being sold (on the used market) because they've been damaged? Or is this a common thing to have older Velodynes fixed?

Thanks

I have the DD15. When bypassing the crossover of the sub, the low pass xover freq reverts to off as expected but I also notice the low pass xover slope also reverts to off. Do I want to keep the slope off when bypassing the subs xover?

Yes they both should be off.
Curt

Well after 2 months of waiting the Servo-15 arrived 3 days ago and it's still working great. Couldn't say the same with the SPL-r which only took a day to die.

It took less time to order a totally new sub from Canada than it takes to have the Spl-1200r fixed. Sad:(

Well after 2 months of waiting the Servo-15 arrived 3 days ago and it's still working great. Couldn't say the same with the SPL-r which only took a day to die.

It took less time to order a totally new sub from Canada than it takes to have the Spl-1200r fixed. Sad:(

Glad to hear that you are happy with your Servo-15, and it's too bad that you had a negative experience with Velodyne's service department.

You are part of the minority who has had any thing but positive to say about Velodyne's service, and unfortunately part of the majority that will not being enjoying their superior products performance.

Good luck

Half ;)

Thanks.

I liked the Velo when it was working. I got the Paradigm Servo-15 out of long frustration. I think 4 months of patience is long enough. Besides, it's in warranty and the first day I got it, it died. The whole thing should have been replaced, instead it got a shabby patch job. It broke and died 3 times. :(

This is probably just a local thing, I hope. The Servo-15 had many glowing reviews and does dig real deep and very powerful. I could not consider the Velo DD models because... well you know why. :P

Thanks.

I liked the Velo when it was working. I got the Paradigm Servo-15 out of long frustration. I think 4 months of patience is long enough. Besides, it's in warranty and the first day I got it, it died. The whole thing should have been replaced, instead it got a shabby patch job. It broke and died 3 times. :(

This is probably just a local thing, I hope. The Servo-15 had many glowing reviews and does dig real deep and very powerful. I could not consider the Velo DD models because... well you know why. :P


Sorry to hear it didn't work out for you. My SPL1200R is thumping along fine. Just have to resist the urge to get the 1500R. There is no reason that I need it at all the 1200 is doing just fine.

I don't think there is such a version as the Spl-1500r, well none that I know of. :P

I would have been perfectly happy with the SPL-1200r, if it had no issues. Great sound, fast, compact and has on board EQ. The Servo-15 on the other hand is an HT beast, scary powerful for my small place. No complaints but I am hesitating to put on 'Private Ryan' :D

If and when I regain confidence with Velo products, I am considering the SMS-1 to eq the Servo15. Right now, I'm using an old BK pre-amp so I can have a volume nob up-front.

I like the velo-remote, it was very convenient. You always tend to want more bass for movies and less for music.

I don't think there is such a version as the Spl-1500r, well none that I know of. :P


From the Velodyne first quarter 2006 newsletter:

"Velodyne is introducing a new member of the SPL-R Series - the SPL-1500R. The SPL-R Series is now a family of four with the SPL-800R, SPL-1000R, SPL-1200R and now the SPL-1500R. This new addition builds on the same high performance you've come to expect from the SPL-R Series with 2000 watts dynamic and 1000 watts RMS power. We decided to introduce the SPL-1500R because the architecture of so many homes today require a large subwoofer due to high ceilings and open rooms that flow from one to the next. We kept the tradition of Small, Plays Loud with the SPL-1500R and you'll find it's the smallest and best performing 15" subwoofer available. The SPL-1500R will be available in either black pica or cherry finishes and you'll see it in stores starting in May. The suggested retail price is $2,099." :)

That would be a nice sub. It would be nicer if they brought the rms up to 1500watts :)

Hi,
May/June looks good for intro of the SPL-1500R.
Don't get too hung up on watts, they are only a part of the formula. Any power above the amount required to take the driver to it's maximum excursion is not used or needed. The SPL-R series all have more than the required amount of amplifier power.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt..

I am considering the HGS-15X but am a little concerned because a friend of mine owns the HGS-15 (earlier model I guess) and has had the amplifier fixed twice.

Are you aware of this issue in the past and has it been fixed with the latest HGS-15X models? What is the Velodyne warranty?

Thanks!

Hi,
The Velodyne warranty is 2 years parts and labor. The HGS-X series amplifiers are of course the latest and all earlier issues have been addressed. Just be sure the HGS-15X is adequate for room area including openings and their area. (See www.velodyne.com and look at "subwoofer recommendations", under "which product"). Usage of course comes into play. If you like your bass loud and powerful, move up a size from recommendation, or double up. Reserve is a good thing.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Curt..

I am considering the HGS-15X but am a little concerned because a friend of mine owns the HGS-15 (earlier model I guess) and has had the amplifier fixed twice.

Are you aware of this issue in the past and has it been fixed with the latest HGS-15X models? What is the Velodyne warranty?

Thanks!

Make sure you have quick and easy access to a competent service center where you're buying and the store can replace the model with stock at hand should you have issues. :p

Hi,

I'm the proud owner of a DD-15 just picked up after a long drive into Sweden. It basically works, and I can get the tv display; it's just that there is no response whatsoever to the remote from the DD-15 Is there something simple or is this a known fault in any way?

On unpacking from apparently new, the sub has a date of 2003 on the back and displays v1.2 s/w on the TV. I begin to suspect its provenance, But Is there anything I personally can do to get it working, as it is very inconvient to go through the (rather idiosyncratic) dealer, who speaks a dialect of Swedish that is difficult for me :)

I run it on the sub out of my Linn processor and I get plenty of sound. Trouble is, all I can do is turn the volume up and down with the physical buttons, and it is therefore stuck in Action/Adventure mode and I can run no calibrations or any kind of adjustments (which all seem to require the remote.)

I have also tried reprogramming my Harmony 885 remote from the website and the basic commands this gives, like on off, do not work either.

I'm familiar with laptops etc so I can try anything people want to suggest. I suppose I could try 2.0 upgrade but I'm loth to do anything that will make it more difficult to return to the dealer in case I have to.

I'm desperate to get this beast going properly! Hoping someone can suggest something. SteveC in Norway.

Assuming the remote itself is working, you are left with the possibility of a defective IR on the subwoofer and will need to take it back to the store for replacement and warranty. Sorry. :(

If it makes you feel any better, my experience with the Spl-1200r is worse than yours. :)

Maybe Curt will jump in here.

Wouldn't a newly manufactured sub have a current date?

Would one with a manufacture date of 2003 indicate that it's been in inventory or an open box?

Jim and Ferres, I think you are both right and I and the seller were just a little unlucky with a less mainstream purchase route :) I'm confident the issue will be resolved amicably and I am looking forward to being an even happier owner. It was just tempting to hope it was something simple that I could perhaps fix myself to avoid shipping and travel hassle, but I think I should let due process run because the various company and other responses look promising so far.

Velodyne has a software update (2.2.0) for the DD series. linky..... http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/support/softwareupdates.aspx?sid=411b873a
I need to look at the new user manual since I don't yet see benefits for user manual adjustments. However, I really can't think of anything that needs improvemnet in the 2.0 software.

The datasheet talks about the change vs 2.0, but I'm not clear about which things are new from 2.1

So compared to 2.1 the main advantage is that we get defeatable low pass filter?

the new software gives an enormous lift in the frequency response below 20Hz with the new software .this code is a lot better written than the old one. my advice is not to look only on the spec-sheet but to instal this as soon as possible. you will FEEL the difference it's huge! take a look at my response with some fiddling with the EQ. before I could not get the response to keep up below 20Hz. now it's rulerflat all the way down below 15Hz

Can this also be used on the SMS-1????

Can this also be used on the SMS-1????

Hi,
No, they are different software modules. Please DO NOT attempt to load the DD software on the SMS-1. We will update the web site to make this clearer in the next day or so.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

We will update the web site to make this clearer in the next day or so.


Will there be an udate to the SMS-1 coming soon as well?

Will there be an udate to the SMS-1 coming soon as well?

Hi,
We have a version of the SMS-1 software that allows the subsonic filter to go down to 5 Hz that we'll be making available shortly.

Bruce

I have a well-preserved, and great performing up till yesterday, Velodyne VA-1512. It was bought new in 1996. The malady is simple. On certain signals (usually accent specific in movies) it makes a loud ?Blat? kind of noise. It sounds electronic in origin, as there is no speaker rumble or rattle. I want to keep this unit, as it is a classic. Does this sound like the Amp going? I realize this is not much to go on, but thats all I have. I can make it repeatedly fail by playing parts of DVDs known to create the problem.

Finally joining the club. I ordered a DD-15 about 3 weeks ago, and it is scheduled to deliver today! I saw Steve C's post about a 2003 build and was a little bit concerned. Well, a DD-15 V 2.20 just showed up at the door! :) I guess there was a reason they were on back order when I placed my order. Can't wait to play now!

Hi,
We have a version of the SMS-1 software that allows the subsonic filter to go down to 5 Hz that we'll be making available shortly.

Bruce

Bruce,
My HGS-15 has a built in subsonic filter and the SMS-1 has one too.

Do any problems arise using two subsonic filters?? i.e. compound, etc.

Hi,

- Please, could anybody tell me which the value Power Consumption of DD 12 ?

Thanks,
Aureliano

Hi,
About 10 amps.
Curt

Bruce,
My HGS-15 has a built in subsonic filter and the SMS-1 has one too.

Do any problems arise using two subsonic filters?? i.e. compound, etc.

Hi,
No problem at all. They're both below 15hz and that's a good thing.
Curt

Great I love new software and esp. better features on an already great product :D .

I hate that the old settings can't be downloaded and stored on the PC by the software and automatically converted and restored to work with the new software(or perhaps with a little tweaking). Now you have to manually take notes of all the 50 settings and re-enter manually after upgrading and that twice (since I own two dd's). I personally find this a really user unfriendly process. :(

What's the big deal to implement this Bruce ? :rolleyes:

Great I love new software and esp. better features on an already great product :D .

I hate that the old settings can't be downloaded and stored on the PC by the software and automatically converted and restored to work with the new software(or perhaps with a little tweaking). Now you have to manually take notes of all the 50 settings and re-enter manually after upgrading and that twice (since I own two dd's). I personally find this a really user unfriendly process. :(

What's the big deal to implement this Bruce ? :rolleyes:

Hi,
The biggest deal is to write the PC side to receive, store, and upload the data. The good news is that we don't expect to issue a software upgrade that requires a default restore for a while, if ever again.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Curt,

- Thank you, but I need a measure in Watts.

Aureliano

Hi,
The good news is that we don't expect to issue a software upgrade that requires a default restore for a while, if ever again.

Hope this helps,
Bruce


Why would that be? Are you thinking that this may be the last software upgrade? If it may not be the last, why would another update not need a default restore? I ask because I just purchased a DD15 and realize the sub has been out for a few years but wonder if this sub may be at the end of it's life cycle.

Curt,

- Thank you, but I need a measure in Watts.

Aureliano
Watts= Volts x Amps . A 10amp load would equal 1200 watts at a nominal 120 volts. Of course an amplifier does not follow this example unless it is tested with a constant load such as a sine wave and the input voltage is held constant. The actual output of the amp varies with the music being played and the low frequency content. -Hope that this helps.
Don

Don,

- Very good answer, thank you !

- It seems that will be difficult to find some protection or filter for my DD. :(

Thanks,
Aureliano

Hello everybody,
I just tried to update my SMS-1 with the newest software i found on the velodyne homepage, after restart i get the error:
System halted, reload correct Software. This Software is for DD Subwoofers.

There was no information / warning, that the software will only work on DD subwoofers. Does anyone have a software version for the SMS-1 that works?

Best regards

Michael Froehlich

Michael

You mean like reading a few post up?

Easy mistake as I was wanting it to work on the SMS also. Had to read their software update page a few times and still asked about it here.

We'll have a SMS version soon.

Hello JimP,
thank you, but now its to late, I already found out that the software ist not working an a SMS-1. So how do i get a working one?

Michael

Michael,

Not sure what exactly you're asking.

The SMS version of the software update won't be out until later.

Does your SMS no longer work after a failed software update?

JimP,
yes it isn't working anymore, after applying the 2.2.0 Software (i found on velodyne homepage) it says on the television welcome screen:
System halted, reload correct Software. This Software is for DD Subwoofers
where do i get a software version 2.1 or 2.2 for the SMS-1?
Michael

Michael,

Someone from Velodyne, Curt or Bruce, are likely to respond to you about what to do to recover.

As its Sunday, we might not hear from them until tomorrow.

Michael,
Sent you a PM.

Everyone else,
We'll have a verison of the SMS-1 software up next week. Remember that the DD 2.2.0 software is NOT compatible with the SMS-1 software, even though it will load. Sorry for the confusion!

Bruce

I spent yesterday afternoon installing and running the new version 2.2 software for my DD-18. If you have a DD series sub you should definitely take the time and do this. Unfortunately, the DD’s use a serial RS232 interface and in case you didn’t notice, most laptops these days don’t have serial ports on them and the USB to serial port converters are a hassle, so I had to drag my desktop unit down stairs to the sub.

Well I’m glad I did. The response graph has gone from looking like a topographical map of the Rocky Mountains, to a nice flat (+- 3db) from 15Hz to 100Hz +. Really an amazing difference. I now have two listening positions with a flat graph where I had only one “sweet spot” before. The ability to store different EQ setups for the individual presets, defeatable low-pass crossover and the overlay of previous graph are very useful upgrade features.

For me, upgrades like this really establish the value of a product and justify the initial expense. Nice job Velodyne!

Well I’m glad I did. The response graph has gone from looking like a topographical map of the Rocky Mountains, to a nice flat (+- 3db) from 15Hz to 100Hz +. Really an amazing difference.

Do and did you use ONLY the autosetup feature?
I don't understand if you manually had installed and tweaked the parameters how the difference can be that great????
I have the v2.0 and have a very good curve (not optimal but the problem is in the physical space and I don't want to rebuild my livingroom).

Do and did you use ONLY the autosetup feature?
I don't understand if you manually had installed and tweaked the parameters how the difference can be that great????
I have the v2.0 and have a very good curve (not optimal but the problem is in the physical space and I don't want to rebuild my livingroom).


I ran Auto EQ first but as you know, the only way to tame a difficult space (I have one too) is via Manual. The EQ now extends lower (to 15Hz I believe) and this is reflected in the graph. I am not sure why the final graph looked so much better than my previous efforts with the 2.0 software. It may be that my ears are influenced by the picture but I feel there is a significant difference in the way the sub sounds with both movies and music. It is an easy upgrade so why not give it a try? I'd be interested in your impressions.

Don,

- Very good answer, thank you !

- It seems that will be difficult to find some protection or filter for my DD. :(

Thanks,
Aureliano
Why? 1200w is the peak draw and there are many devices which will handle that.

Kal

Bruce, Curt, thanks for being a part of the forum!

Thought I had settled on the HGS 15X, now I get the SPL 15R added to the mix. Still leaning to the HGS based on the technology, Audioholics review, THX Ultra 2 Certification, legend of the HGS series, etc.

My setup/room:

Approx 2000 cf living room with one 8ft opening to dining/kitchen area, and one doorway to bedrooms. Very limited in placement.

Denon AVR 5803 (THX Ultra 2)

GR Research AV series 5.0 System

Panasonic S97 DVD

90/10 Movies to music

Thoughts, suggestions, experience?

Price not factor between the two.

Thought I had settled on the HGS 15X, now I get the SPL 15R added to the mix. Still leaning to the HGS based on the technology, Audioholics review, THX Ultra 2 Certification, legend of the HGS series, etc.

My setup/room:

Approx 2000 cf living room with one 8ft opening to dining/kitchen area, and one doorway to bedrooms. Very limited in placement.

Denon AVR 5803 (THX Ultra 2)

GR Research AV series 5.0 System

Panasonic S97 DVD

90/10 Movies to music

Thoughts, suggestions, experience?

Price not factor between the two.

Both would be great choices, but if pricing is not a factor then I would recommend the SPL1500R due to it's digital servo and eq.

Half

How does the servo differ between the two? It was my impression that the HGS had a more advanced servo that provided the accuracy and flat response needed for THX certification.

How does the servo differ between the two? It was my impression that the HGS had a more advanced servo that provided the accuracy and flat response needed for THX certification.

I was under the impression that the SPL-R series has a servo similar in design to the DD series subs (digital) however I may be wrong. If this is not the case, then assuming that a DD15 is out of the budget, then I would consider the HGS15x and then add an SMS-1 later (when budget permits).

Curt or one the other Velodyne gurus would be the most accurate source of info and recommendations on these products as my "hands on" experience is limited to the DD15 that I own and love.

Half

Hi,
The new SPL-1500R does not have the accelerometer based servo feedback system. It does however have DSP auto-eq and a proprietary six stage amplifier design, based on our long term knowledge and experience with servo feedback systems. The HGS-15X has the analog version of the servo system whereas the DD series feature the newest adjustable digital servo system.
As stated either the HGS-15X or the new (May/June release) SPL-1500R will be an excellent choice for your system.
Curt

I there a difference between the DD15 and DD15BG ?

Thanks Curt, still leaning towards the HGS. I can remember lusting after an HGS-18 a few years back at Sound Advice in Clearwater, FL. Now that I'm finally doing a ground-up upgrade of my home theater, the thought of adding an HGS has me pretty excited! Another big selling point for me was the Audioholics review, specifically the ease of placement issue. I'm pretty much limited to front right corner placement. It would be a lot easier if I had no wife, but what are you gonna do?

I there a difference between the DD15 and DD15BG ?

Hi,
BG is the finish, in this case Black Gloss.
Curt

JimP & BruceHall,
thank you for the help, this forum works better than the official support site from velodyne, even on sundays, great
best regards
michael

BruceHall,
sent you a PM with my EMail adr.
Thank you

4. The chip is a TI 2407 DSP with 32K RAM. The code is TI assembler (we had to get down and dirty to get the video timing right - it is all generated directly form the chip) and the IDE is Code Composer from TI. I doubt we would or could open up the architecture - it is highly integrated and complex. What might happen is that we open up the ability to have folks save off crossover points and other setup data externally then share with others. For example, we're seriously considering offering default settings for various kinds of mains. All this could be done via the serial interface.
Since I just have acquired a DD-12 and started reading this long thread, when a question pops up I have to post it without knowing if it has been answered a year or two later...
These "default settings" - has anything been done about it? If not downloadable, maybe a table?

Hi,
I sent you a PM.
Curt (480) 595-7141

BruceHall,
just found out, that the download page was updated, now its clear, thank you. I reinstalled the sofware 2.1 for SMS-1, and everything works fine.
This is great support,

Michael

1st i hope you all enjoyed the holidays..i know i have :D

A quick question for Bruce/Curt and co if i may

Is there a possiblity of a stand alone unit to plug into a HGS series sub that would give EQ to these subs.I know yo can get a BFD but something with the graphic ease of the DD EQ would be a nice addition.

As a hgs18 user i'd like some slidy knobs to play with;)
Hi,
An interesting concept. Too early to tell but worth thinking about.
Thanks,
Curt
And then came the SMS-1... :)

BruceHall,
just found out, that the download page was updated, now its clear, thank you. I reinstalled the sofware 2.1 for SMS-1, and everything works fine.
This is great support,

Michael

Thanks Michael, sorry for the confusion in the first place!

Bruce

Michael,
Sent you a PM.

Everyone else,
We'll have a verison of the SMS-1 software up next week. Remember that the DD 2.2.0 software is NOT compatible with the SMS-1 software, even though it will load. Sorry for the confusion!

Bruce
Hi Bruce,

Is the software update for the SMS-1 the 2.12 version you now have on your website? Or is there going to be a 2.2.0 version for the SMS-1 soon?

Thanks,
DB

Hi Bruce,

Is the software update for the SMS-1 the 2.12 version you now have on your website? Or is there going to be a 2.2.0 version for the SMS-1 soon?

Thanks,
DB
Hi,
The only difference between version 2.1 and version 2.12 is that the latter will go down to 5 Hz on the subsonic filter.

The 2.1 releases for SMS contain all the features of the new DD 2.2.0 release. No other releases for SMS are planned right away, but we'll certianly upgrade it at some point in the future.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Great, thanks for the quick response Bruce!

I have an easy question but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Are any of the DD or HGS-X Subs magnetically shielded? I just replaced my sub with an SPL-800R and I can't place it where my P-1000 sounded best because it's too close to my TV. It won't be an issue after I get my plasma but that's going to be a lil bit. I can get another sub and get wife approval easier than a TV. I'm going to use the SPL-800R as a center sub and I'm looking at the DD10 or HGS-10X because they are a lil bit smaller than an SPL-1000R. Will they work in my app.? I know the SPL-R is shielded.

Also, I can get the HGS-10X for about the same price as the SPL-1000R is the HGS-X better than the SPL-R. The SPL-R has the EQ while the HGS-X does not.

Thanks
V

Originally posted by curt c
Hi,
Yes, for maximum performance the 1812 should have a dedicated 20amp circuit. There are two 1250 watt amplifiers to feed. Many newer homes have some 20 amp circuits while older ones normally had 15 amp circuits.
Often it's not difficult for an electrician to rewire a 15 to 20.
Thanks,
Curt

Just wanted to expand on this a little. At power up, two 1250W RMS amps' power capacitors must be charged up, which draws about 19 amps for just a second. After that, they draw very little continuous power, even at full output.

Bruce
First, the 1812 of course uses more power than the other DD subs - and second, it's a difference in 115V and 230V countries. But shouldn't it be possible to have a "soft-start"? At startup, perform a startup-sequence where the power draw is limited until the capacitors are fully charged?

is the HGS-X better than the SPL-R. The SPL-R has the EQ while the HGS-X does not.

Servo control vs limited EQ..........Hmmmmmm....

Hi,
The only difference between version 2.1 and version 2.12 is that the latter will go down to 5 Hz on the subsonic filter.

The 2.1 releases for SMS contain all the features of the new DD 2.2.0 release. No other releases for SMS are planned right away, but we'll certianly upgrade it at some point in the future.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

I bought my SMS-1 last October. Is the software update different from my current software?

I bought my SMS-1 last October. Is the software update different from my current software?

Hi Shadow,
No. The 2.1 on the web site is identical to that shipped with all units from the factory. We only posted it because some users had inadvertantly loaded the DD release on their SMS and needed the original software back.

Bruce

First, the 1812 of course uses more power than the other DD subs - and second, it's a difference in 115V and 230V countries. But shouldn't it be possible to have a "soft-start"? At startup, perform a startup-sequence where the power draw is limited until the capacitors are fully charged?

Interesting you should bring this up now - we're making a running engineering change to adjust the "inrush limiter" to limit the power draw at startup until the caps charge up. This should reduce the required amperage for startup, but only in future units - we haven't made the change yet!

Hope this helps,
Bruce

I have an easy question but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Are any of the DD or HGS-X Subs magnetically shielded? I just replaced my sub with an SPL-800R and I can't place it where my P-1000 sounded best because it's too close to my TV. It won't be an issue after I get my plasma but that's going to be a lil bit. I can get another sub and get wife approval easier than a TV. I'm going to use the SPL-800R as a center sub and I'm looking at the DD10 or HGS-10X because they are a lil bit smaller than an SPL-1000R. Will they work in my app.? I know the SPL-R is shielded.

Also, I can get the HGS-10X for about the same price as the SPL-1000R is the HGS-X better than the SPL-R. The SPL-R has the EQ while the HGS-X does not.

Thanks
V

Hi,
The HGS-15X and the DD-15 and 18 are video shielded. In the SPL-R series the 1000R, 1200R and new 1500R are shielded. For your application I would recommend the SPL-1000R.
Thanks,
Curt

Hi Shadow,
No. The 2.1 on the web site is identical to that shipped with all units from the factory. We only posted it because some users had inadvertantly loaded the DD release on their SMS and needed the original software back.

Bruce
Thanks for the assistance as usual! :)