Sorry if I sound naive, but please bear with me.

I assume THX Optimizer is included with most THX-Certified DVDs. Is that correct? Do I need to order the blue glasses to use it? Can I buy these at Best Buy or some other local store?

Thanks,
Alan

Originally posted by alanpgh
Sorry if I sound naive, but please bear with me.

I assume THX Optimizer is included with most THX-Certified DVDs. Is that correct? Do I need to order the blue glasses to use it? Can I buy these at Best Buy or some other local store?

Thanks,
Alan

You would need to order the blue glasses or AVIA or DVE if you want the blue filters. You probably can use the settings I posted that impact the color decoder and be very close to correct. However, I always recommend using a test pattern to properly setup a display. All THX certified disks do not contain THX Optimizer. The older ones have THX Optimode which is not as useful for these purposes. It will not let you properly set the picture level.

You can order the blue glasses here.

https://secure.brandlocker.com/promos/thxpromo.cfm

umr....quick question....I've got an Elite 59 AVi hooked to my 60WE610 via DVI/HDMI. PQ is quite stunning. The only downside is that I can't use wide mode on my monitor. Usually, it's not an issue. But, with 2:40 disks, the picture area is relatively small. Can I also hook component connections to the monitor in order to use wide mode? In other words, can I have two separate connections to the TV from my DVD player....both DVI and component and have both work?

Thanks!

graphicguy,

Assuming your DVD player supports it there should be no problem. You should also be able to change your DVD player to output 480p which should let you use all of the zoom modes.

UMR,

I have been using the Variable 1 choice on my Hughes HLD on GWIII 42" which does 720,1081 and shows 480i and 480p as 480p. It seems just as good as Ezdvi setting on HD and SD seems much sharper, I know you believe everything should go as Native but am wondering if you have tried this setting?
Any one else with thoughts please jump in
David

dlt21,

I have. Have you done all the tweaks? If so we just have a difference of opinion or hardware if not you need to.

Originally posted by umr
dlt21,

I have. Have you done all the tweaks? If so we just have a difference of opinion or hardware if not you need to.

I know if I go into that service menu to do the tweaks ill never find my way out

Originally posted by dlt21
I know if I go into that service menu to do the tweaks ill never find my way out

That is a shame, but I understand.

My 42we610 is in the shop due to a green splotch about the size of a silver dollar. The splotch is mostly visible on dark-colored backgrounds. The repair person said it was probably some kind of dust and Sony told him that they had several units with this problem. They also told him to take the light engine apart to find the dust.

I told the repairman that I thought these things were sealed so that dust couldn't get in there to cause this kind of obstruction. He said it was probably something that got in there when it was manufactured. But if that's the case, why did it suddenly show-up after 3 months of use?

Thanks,
Steve

superbaguy,

The unit has a fan that pulls air from inside the TV into the optical block. Dust inside the unit can end up on the panels. Nothing like this is perfectly sealed. It is possible dust leaked in as well.

All,

Just received my 42WE610 this past thursday (crutchfield order).

Everything was working really great until yesterday, when the tv would need 2 pushes of the "power" button to start up -- on the first push, the light would blink green for a moment then blink red in repeating bursts of 4 blinks. A second push on the power button would start blinking green again, and the picture would then appear and the set would function normally. I suspected this was a bad sign.

This morning when attempting to turn it on, it did the "blinking green becomes blinking red" again, but this time, it refused to turn on at all. Any attempt to power up would be met by a blinking green of varying duration (anywhere from 5 to 20 seconds), followed by the repeated 4-blink red. After maybe 60 seconds of the red-blink pattern, you'd hear a "click" as if the tuner was switching off, and the tv would go back into "off/standby" mode (solid red light).

The manual seems pretty cut-and-dried in the troubleshooting section, that if the tv won't come on and you see a blinking red light, it's "call sony" time... but i wanted to add a post here to see if these problems are common.. I'm not getting a *bulb* indicator light warning, but rather the regular power light is the one blinking red.

I'm pretty frustrated, because most evidence on this forum suggests that these tech issues had all been resolved months ago.

dropd,

What you are seeing is your protection circuitry in action. The four blinks is a fan problem. You may have a bad fan or loose wire. This should be easily fixed and is not a wide spread problem. Call Sony and get it fixed.

Help, I'm going crazy. Could someone please post a link to the thread or threads about using the GWIII as a HTPC? I printed out a "Sony gwIII as a HTPC - beginners guide", but now can't find the link. I've read the "GWIII Tweakers - ATI/NVIDIA - Powerstrip/Service Mode Thread " and there someone talked about a GWIII to PC over DVI thread but I can't find it on a search.

I want to buy a DVI video card. Mostly for DVD playback. I'm not into gaming but I hope to do video editing and am looking for a good card that is known to work well with the GWIII.
Thanks, Rock

umr,

thanks for the input. how do you know that it's a fan issue? (does "4" blinks specifically mean "fan problem"? versus 3 blinks or 5 blinks, etc).

even though sony's big northeast service center is only 40 minutes away from me, they don't offer their own in-home factory service here (which i find pretty bizarre), so I have to go through a third-party "authorized" service center. Will be making the appointment tomorrow, I hope the scheduling turnaround time isn't too long...

Originally posted by umr
dropd,

What you are seeing is your protection circuitry in action. The four blinks is a fan problem. You may have a bad fan or loose wire. This should be easily fixed and is not a wide spread problem. Call Sony and get it fixed.

Although the XBR runs Linux deep inside, you can use just the display (LCD TV) with a DVI display card by buying a DVI-D cable (that's one without the audio connections) and plugging it in. Worked first time with an Apple laptop. Awsome display!

Originally posted by dropd
umr,

thanks for the input. how do you know that it's a fan issue? (does "4" blinks specifically mean "fan problem"? versus 3 blinks or 5 blinks, etc)....

I looked in my crystal ball (service manual).:D

Originally posted by nicksab
I got my 60" KF60WE610 Sunday, and I am mostly thrilled with it. But then I started noticing some issues.

ISSUE 2:
I have a Toshiba SD-1600 DVD player, connected via component video outputs. I watched the first two Lord of the Rings DVD's, and noticed a recurring artifact: dark edges on light backgrounds seemed to have a ghost edge. Example: In a shot of dark ground below a light sky, the horizon line would have a light "ghost" line above it, noticeably separate from the actual horizon (maybe 1/2-1" in actual distance on the TV). I noticed this in various scenes throughout both DVDs.

I think the SD1600 is NOT a progressive scan player - could that cause artifacts like this? Is there a definitive way to tell if it is progressive scanning? (The manual has no mention of it...and I couldn't find anything online.)

~~~~~~~~~~~

Does ISSUE 2 sound like a TV issue, or DVD source issue (e.g. lack of progressive scanning)?

- Nick

Nick, did you ever receive a reply to your ISSUE 2? I am experiencing what I believe to be the same thing. If you know how to correct it, or if I should exchange it, please let me know! I also made a thread for this:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=440771

I just got my KF-60WE610 and hooked up my new DTV HR10250 DIRECTV® HD Receiver/DVR with TiVo using the DVI connection. The picture looks almost like a negative looks when you view it but with only primary colors, bright red, blue, white and yellow. When I hook up the box using the component cables or rca cables, the picture is fine. Does this sound like a problem with the DVI connection on the box or is there something I need to set on the TV to view using the DVI connection. I checked the manual but did not see anything in regards to this. I left a message with the HD receiver people but thaought if any one else has seen this it might help.

Thanks for your help.

Originally posted by grizzlyt
I just got my KF-60WE610 and hooked up my new DTV HR10250 DIRECTV® HD Receiver/DVR with TiVo using the DVI connection. The picture looks almost like a negative looks when you view it but with only primary colors, bright red, blue, white and yellow. When I hook up the box using the component cables or rca cables, the picture is fine. Does this sound like a problem with the DVI connection on the box or is there something I need to set on the TV to view using the DVI connection. I checked the manual but did not see anything in regards to this. I left a message with the HD receiver people but thaought if any one else has seen this it might help.

Thanks for your help.

Sounds like a relatively widespread issue with the HDTivo (not the GWIII). Check out this thread on the TivoCommunity site:

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=2196681

Mine was great for 3 weeks, then died. Others are DOA.

-Sean

UMR:

I need a little help from you or anyone else who may have an idea about the following adjustment I need to make:

I have a Sony DAVFR8 Home Theater and a 50" GWIII. They work well together, but the FM Radio level is too high and the Variable Audio out of the GWIII is too low. When I switch between between Video and FM Radio channels, I need to lower the volume of the Home Theater first so I don't overdrive the speakers. An easy fix would be to put a pre-amp between the GWIII variable audio output and the Home Theater. An easier solution may be to increase the basic level of the Variable Audio using the GWIII Service Menu. UMR: Can you post a message (or send me a PM) as to how to adjust the basic level of the Variable Audio Output of the GWIII? Is there even such an adjustment available from the Service Menu?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

Originally posted by alanpgh
UMR:

.... An easier solution may be to increase the basic level of the Variable Audio using the GWIII Service Menu. UMR: Can you post a message (or send me a PM) as to how to adjust the basic level of the Variable Audio Output of the GWIII? Is there even such an adjustment available from the Service Menu?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

I have never tried this, but it is an interesting idea. I would try category AP item SVOL. AP category is definitely the audio category and SVOL is the offset for volume. It appears SVOL can have different values depending on the source or audio selection. I have never tried this so you are on your own on this one.

I previously posted that my 70" Grand Wega had developed a visible red line running down the middle of the screen after only having it for a few days. An authorized service tech came out and replaced the optical block which fixed the problem. Looks like the red LCD panel was bad. I was curious how much this part would have cost me if I were paying the bill, so I asked. His reply -- $1800 for the part!. He did say that its extremely rare for an optical block to break down on you. If they work well from the beginning then they usually stay that way. Well, I guess that's a little reassuring.

UMR:

I have your UMR Tweak. Will it be obvious as to how to get to the AP item?
Is there a place where I can get the actual Service Manual for the 50" GWIII (KF-50WE610)?
I am willing to try this because I can always reset to the default values.

Thanks for your help!
Alan

Originally posted by alanpgh
UMR:

I have your UMR Tweak. Will it be obvious as to how to get to the AP item?
Is there a place where I can get the actual Service Manual for the 50" GWIII (KF-50WE610)?
I am willing to try this because I can always reset to the default values.

Thanks for your help!
Alan

It should be obvious if you understand how to navigate the service menu. The manuals are available from Sony, but I doubt it will add more clarity than my guide.

Is anyone using a Sony STR-DE895/897/995/997 receiver with their GWIII?

I'm interested in moving up to digital sound from my old Pro Logic receiver, but worry about losing the simple audio+video switching I have now through the TV. (I used to do all of the switching through my receiver, but it is composite video only. Now, everything is routed through the GWIII, and the TV/Video button does the selection.) The GWIII routes two-channel audio, but not optical or coax.

How do you keep the receiver source and GWIII video source synched? Macros on a remote control that select corrseponding inputs? Does Control-S offer any help?

- Patrick

Originally posted by igoe
Is anyone using a Sony STR-DE895/897/995/997 receiver with their GWIII?

I'm interested in moving up to digital sound from my old Pro Logic receiver, but worry about losing the simple audio+video switching I have now through the TV. (I used to do all of the switching through my receiver, but it is composite video only. Now, everything is routed through the GWIII, and the TV/Video button does the selection.) The GWIII routes two-channel audio, but not optical or coax.

How do you keep the receiver source and GWIII video source synched? Macros on a remote control that select corrseponding inputs? Does Control-S offer any help?

- Patrick

I use a Harmony 659 universal remote which has worked very well for me. I run all video directly to the TV, skipping the receiver (Denon 3805) which I just use for audio. The Harmony has greatly simplified the operation of my system for my wife and daughter, and I think direct video connections to the TV produce the best possible picture.

Originally posted by igoe
Is anyone using a Sony STR-DE895/897/995/997 receiver with their GWIII? I'm using the STR-DE895 with a 50" GWIII. I run an Optical cable from my Comcast Digital Cable set-top box. It's rather easy. Prior to having the Optical out I used the standard line out RCA jacks from my cable box. I wish I could help in your situation, but I can't :).

I keep hearing great things about the Harmony remotes though.

-jim

[QUOTE]Originally posted by igoe
[B]Is anyone using a Sony STR-DE895/897/995/997 receiver with their GWIII?

I am using a Sony STR-DE985 receiver. I use an optical connection from the STB to the receiver. I also do the same for my DVD player. I even customized the display on the receiver to show "Cable" or "DVD".
I have a Home Theater Master 500 that sends discrete commands to the TV and receiver to have it change to the correct video and audio. Seems to work OK for me and my family.

I have not tried the Control S cables, but would be interested in hearing if they work.

Another question...

I tried the following experiment:

I recorded the Peter Gabriel concert video from INHD on my Comcast Motorola 6208 HD PVR. I played the DVD of the same program on my new Sony 575P progressive scan DVD player (with "progressive" selected on the back panel and using component cables to a component input on my GWIII).

Should these look the same? Switching between sources, the INHD recording is much clearer, much brighter, and has less "tearing" when there is motion.

Does INHD actually have a higher quality version of the source material, or is my DVD setup deficient in some way? I thought I recalled seeing a post somewhere that much INHD content was only 480p DVD-level material.

I can repeat the experiment with Star Wars II, which I recorded from HBO-HD and for which I have a DVD.

(The PVR set-top happens to be connected via DVI right now, but I noticed no significant difference between the DVI and component connections when I compared those.)

igoe,

INHD will be better even if it is using the same source if you have not done the umr tweaks. INHD may have a better source if you have done the tweaks or your DVD player may not be the best.

Originally posted by umr
igoe,

INHD will be better even if it is using the same source if you have not done the umr tweaks. INHD may have a better source if you have done the tweaks or your DVD player may not be the best.


I regret to say that my set is not umr'd. (Saying that to umr himself feels kind of like admitting to your dentist that you haven't been flossing...)

I will give the tweaks a shot for that component input and see if I can get closer to the INHD quality level. If I could get close, I would be thrilled.


Is your guess that the INHD feed is indeed the data stream from the DVD, and that an optimal setup of my DVD path -should- be close in quality?

Originally posted by igoe
...Is your guess that the INHD feed is indeed the data stream from the DVD, and that an optimal setup of my DVD path -should- be close in quality?

Don't feel bad about the dentist thing. I won't be sticking any needles in your mouth.

I don't have INHD at my house today. I will be getting tomorrow. Should be able to tell you in the next week or so if they are using DVD sources or not.

Originally posted by igoe
I regret to say that my set is not umr'd. (Saying that to umr himself feels kind of like admitting to your dentist that you haven't been flossing...)


Actually, I made the umr tweaks, and I think the Standard setting is still better. Even after the tweaks, Pro mode seems like there's a brown haze over everything. I don't understand how some people are saying they get dramatic night and day improvements after making them. I guess this really belongs in the umr tweak thread. :p

It really comes down to personal preference. Some folks swear by Pro mode because it is the purest look and the way the producers intended it to look like.

Me, I like Vivid mode. Sure, it has some processing going on behind the scenes to make it look brighter and vibrant, but hell, I like it. I had my set prof. isf'd and also tweaked that calibration to a few of umr's recs. I then tried my best to like Pro mode, watching it only for two weeks, but then when I went back to vivid, it was like night and day, the picture just jumps off the screen. Keep in mind that some of umr's tweaks and prof isf settings are global settings, so they will tweak all modes. I too find Pro and Standard to be dull and hazy.

LarryJoe,

What you are talking about is not the mode, but gamma. You can change the gamma for each mode in the service menu as well. It is in the tweaks, but I don't include it in the step by step procedure.

Art,

You might want to try tweaking gamma on Pro mode if you want a punchier picture. A brown haze sounds like a gray scale problem. You could try improving the gray scale either by selecting a different color temperature or by adjusting the cuts and drives.

Originally posted by dropd

thanks for the input. how do you know that it's a fan issue? (does "4" blinks specifically mean "fan problem"? versus 3 blinks or 5 blinks, etc).

even though sony's big northeast service center is only 40 minutes away from me, they don't offer their own in-home factory service here (which i find pretty bizarre), so I have to go through a third-party "authorized" service center. Will be making the appointment tomorrow, I hope the scheduling turnaround time isn't too long...

Same thing just happened to me this morning and will also be making an appointment with an "auth" service center. Great...so they fix the bulb problem and now have a problem with the fans! Great work, Sony! (I knew I shoulda had a Panny.)

Originally posted by umr
LarryJoe,

What you are talking about is not the mode, but gamma. You can change the gamma for each mode in the service menu as well. It is in the tweaks, but I don't include it in the step by step procedure.



umr - I understand (I think) that modes are just a bunch of settings, but I was told by my isf'er that vivid mode uses some type of processing, there is a name for it, but it escapes me. FWIU, this processor is off by default in Pro and Standard and only on in vivid. Am I making any sense? I am sure you can turn it on in any mode through the SM.

Does anyone know if there is a Service Menu (or Service Manual) for the Sony DAV-FR8 Home Theater System?

I need to lower the volume of the FM Radio in this unit to match with the variable output level of my Sony 50" GWIII (KF-50WE610). Otherwise, when I switch from Video to FM, the FM is too loud. So, right now I need to lower the volume before switching. Thanks to some suggestions by UMR, I was able to do some things from the TV's Service Menu, but I really need to get to the DAVFR8 Service Menu if there is one.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

alanpgh,

The only thing listed in the service manual is a short parts list. The whole thing is two pages with one page for notes.

Originally posted by umr
Art,

You might want to try tweaking gamma on Pro mode if you want a punchier picture. A brown haze sounds like a gray scale problem. You could try improving the gray scale either by selecting a different color temperature or by adjusting the cuts and drives.

UMR, Larry, I'm going to continue this in the UMR Tweak thread. Please join me there at your convenience. :)

I purchased the KF-60WE610 less than two months ago. I love the set but today it won't turn on. The lamp light is lit so I guess I need to replace the bulb. I don't mind replacing the bulb, but at 200 bucks a pop I sure don't want to do it every two months !!! Does anyone have any experience with this?

thanks

Originally posted by tru
I purchased the KF-60WE610 less than two months ago. I love the set but today it won't turn on. The lamp light is lit so I guess I need to replace the bulb. I don't mind replacing the bulb, but at 200 bucks a pop I sure don't want to do it every two months !!! Does anyone have any experience with this?

thanks

You should have spent some time reading through this thread, this is the most discussed issue for this television line. Search (at the top of the page) for "bulb", jump to the "Last" page (which will be the oldest post) and start reading.

Can you look on the back of your tv and find the build date? It will be on a silver sticker with black text, on the right side if you're looking at it from the back.

I have owned a 50" GWIII for less than a month and love it! I bought a 5 years on-site service policy from Sears, where I bought the GWIII, just because they cover the bulbs, and I expect the bulb will probably fail a few times over the next 5 years.

Good Luck!
Alan

For whatever reason, original bulbs don't seem to last. The replacements seem to do better.

Thanks for the replies. I had only read about twenty pages into this thread and then jumped to the back. I used your "search this thread tip" and that explained a lot. (Thanks)
I checked the build date on the back of the set and it is "February 2004". I am surprised they are still having these issues. I called Sony and they are sending me a new bulb. I hope it's the better quality one.
It's funny how addicting these Big screen HD TV's are. I can't bear the thought of watching my old 36 inch for a few days. lol
The set is awesome by the way. I would buy it again without hesitating.

Sorry for the very basic question but how do we find out the build date for the 42we610?

KRAJYK: On my 50" GWIII (KF-50WE610), the build date is on a small plate on the back of the TV near the bottom. Mine was built in July 2004. Since they build these HDTV's in New Stanton, PA near Pittsburgh, where I live, it's not surprising the unit I received in mid-Aug. was built in July.

P.S. to "TRU": I agree with everything you said. I love my GWIII !!!
HD is superb, SD is quite good (better than I expected), and the horizontal viewing angle is very good! I also bought the Sony DAVFR8 Home Theater, with a $200. rebate for buying the TV and the Home Theater at the same time, and it is super!

Good Luck to all!
Alan

How bad are the blacks?????/ I am really into horror movies and just stopped my order for a 51s715 rpcrt. I have 2 windows in the room and would like to use it as a HTPC. I am a big Sony fan and been wanting one of these sets for a long time. I just don't want them to stop making the set in a few years and jump on the dlp wagon.


The real thing is how bad are the blacks? I have a 34xbr910 right now for the bedroom. Any info would help.

The GWIV is about to arrive at the same list price as the GWIII's:

Check out these links:

Sony Web Site lists new WE655 units: (as of Sept. 3, 2004)
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_BrowseCatalog-Start;sid=nDDOR5OdvRHOe9KkiGbETNyRyDag1rUTars=?CategoryName= tv_hdtv_projectiontv&Dept=tv

New Thread on GWIV:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=441948&perpage=20&highlight=gwiv&pagenumber=1

Picture of GWIV:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=442042

Let all of us know what you find out about GWIV PQ vs. GWIII and/or any other relevant information.

Thanks,
Alan

Originally posted by alanpgh
The GWIV is about to arrive at the same list price as the GWIII's:


I used the fact that the IVs were coming out to get a great deal on the III. :)

In regards to the black leve, I've found them to be a little lacking, but acceptable. Given all the tradeoffs between LCD and DLP RPTVs, the black level was something that I decided I could accept. No other complaints about it!

Originally posted by iSSues
How bad are the blacks?????/ I am really into horror movies and just stopped my order for a 51s715 rpcrt. I have 2 windows in the room and would like to use it as a HTPC. I am a big Sony fan and been wanting one of these sets for a long time. I just don't want them to stop making the set in a few years and jump on the dlp wagon.


The real thing is how bad are the blacks? I have a 34xbr910 right now for the bedroom. Any info would help.


From a totally purist point of view, its going to be awfully hard to beat a well calibrated 34xbr910. I think that's going to be the main problem as you'll be comparing anything you get to this set.

Other people's opinions are good, but tolerances vary and what is fine for one person is unacceptable to another. You're best bet is to buy the GWIII from someone that has a good return policy and give the set a try. That's the only way you're going to find out.

Art in SJC:

I basically did the same. Got a 50" GWIII for just under $2600. on a price match at Sears around Aug. 10. Also the DAVFR8 Home Theater for just over $520. plust $200. mail in rebate.

All I can say is WOW!

Also, the UMR Tweak may be helpful to you to make adjutments via the Service Menu.

Good Luck!
Alan

Originally posted by alanpgh
The GWIV is about to arrive at the same list price as the GWIII's:

Check out these links:

Sony Web Site lists new WE655 units: (as of Sept. 3, 2004)
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_BrowseCatalog-Start;sid=nDDOR5OdvRHOe9KkiGbETNyRyDag1rUTars=?CategoryName= tv_hdtv_projectiontv&Dept=tv

New Thread on GWIV:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=441948&perpage=20&highlight=gwiv&pagenumber=1

Picture of GWIV:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=442042

Let all of us know what you find out about GWIV PQ vs. GWIII and/or any other relevant information.

Thanks,
Alan

Any news on electronics/PQ changes? I did a compare on the Sony site and besides of the additions of HD Tuner, CableCard slot, HDMI, etc. it appears pretty much the same, except it is 5" shallower.

Can I have the link to the UMR tweak thread?

Thanks in advance

Rusty Barr:

Here's a link to the UMR Tweak:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875

UMR is an AVS Forum Member, so if you have any questions, you may want to post them here or send him a PM.

Alan

alanpgh or umr,

I tried to adjust the SVOL setting under the AP service category but it will not save a value higher than 3. I press Mute - Enter after changing it to 15 on DVD input but if I cycle through the inputs and back to DVD it is now set at 3. What am I doing wrong? Does the service manual explain what each of the settings is or is there another placeto find this info?

holabr,

I have no experience with SVOL. Mute Enter is working if you see Write turn red. You are doing something wrong if Write stays green. Some values will not stick. The service manual for the GWIII has no description of this value. The GWI manual described as something like a volume bias.

Can someone please take a pic of a really dark movie so i can see how bad they are? Thanks to anyone who does it.:)

Originally posted by iSSues
Can someone please take a pic of a really dark movie so i can see how bad they are? Thanks to anyone who does it.:)

Pictures are pretty worthless. Take a look at my gallery for an example of a dark scene on my GWII. That PQ is very close to the best a GWIII XBR can exhibit.

Anyone have any input on the optimal stand height for the 50" GWIII? I got a deal on a bello stand from BB, but it is 24.5" high. I haven't received my tv yet, but I am starting to think that may be too high for optimal viewing. I am considering the tech craft SWE50 from sears or the PTV582 from CC, but would appreciate any additional suggestions/comments.

TIA!!

Originally posted by chewy08rx
Anyone have any input on the optimal stand height for the 50" GWIII? I got a deal on a bello stand from BB, but it is 24.5" high. I haven't received my tv yet, but I am starting to think that may be too high for optimal viewing. I am considering the tech craft SWE50 from sears or the PTV582 from CC, but would appreciate any additional suggestions/comments.

TIA!!

http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=12&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&productId=11149

$99. It's within 1/4" of the official Sony stand's height, and is the perfect width and depth for this TV. There's also enough room below it for pretty much everything you need to attach to your TV.

I have the Tech Craft SWE50, and it is great. Easy assembly and it matches the 50" GWIII. Paid under $300. at Sears on a price match.

What surprised me, was I bought a GWIII August 12, and it was delivered a week later. When I looked on the back of it to see when it was built to see if I got a newer model that hopefully doesn't have the bulb problem, it said it was built August 2004. I would have thought the production would have stopped on the GWIIIs by then and started on the GWIVs instead with the introduction of the GWIV supposedly around the corner this month.

They practically rolled one off the assembly line into my house if the label is accurate.

I was wondering. Sometimes I might watch something for an hour, but then not want to watch anything again for another hour. And it might happen 2 or 3 times a night.

Is it better for the set to turn it off and on multiple times a night, or just leave it on even when I'm not watching it, or doesn't it matter?

Just curious. I've heard with a PC it's better to just leave it on as it's harder on the hard drive to turn it on and off all day. I'm not sure if it mattered in anyway with the GWIII besides wasting lightbulb hours.

Originally posted by crashairlines
What surprised me, was I bought a GWIII August 12, and it was delivered a week later. When I looked on the back of it to see when it was built to see if I got a newer model that hopefully doesn't have the bulb problem, it said it was built August 2004. I would have thought the production would have stopped on the GWIIIs by then and started on the GWIVs instead with the introduction of the GWIV supposedly around the corner this month.

They practically rolled one off the assembly line into my house if the label is accurate.

Lucky you! I just bought mine last week, August 26th, and I got a March build! I was really hoping for an August, or at least July build. Hopefully I won't have the bulb issue that has been reported for as recently as the February builds from what I've read. If anyone's interested, I got mine from the Milpitas GG, and it shipped from their Fremont/Newark warehouse.

Originally posted by crashairlines
I was wondering. Sometimes I might watch something for an hour, but then not want to watch anything again for another hour. And it might happen 2 or 3 times a night.

Is it better for the set to turn it off and on multiple times a night, or just leave it on even when I'm not watching it, or doesn't it matter?

Just curious. I've heard with a PC it's better to just leave it on as it's harder on the hard drive to turn it on and off all day. I'm not sure if it mattered in anyway with the GWIII besides wasting lightbulb hours.

That's pretty much my viewing pattern, and I just turn it off. I don't think it matters except for the bulb life.

Originally posted by Art_in_SJC
http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=12&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&productId=11149

$99. It's within 1/4" of the official Sony stand's height, and is the perfect width and depth for this TV. There's also enough room below it for pretty much everything you need to attach to your TV.


I bought this Ikea Benno stand, based largely on the color roughly matching my other furniture and the fact that it was the largest box that would fit in my Z3:

http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=12&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&productId=15184

The GWIII 50's base is narrower than the stand by ~4" on each side, and the speakers overhang by ~3". I actually like the way it looks.

My suggestion on height is just to aim for the center of the screen to be around eye-level. That can depend on the height of your couch, I suppose, but something 20" +/- 4" seems good to me.

- Patrick

Thanks for all the replies on stand options. I guess I will wait until the TV arrives and see how it looks on the stand. Then I may have to check out the SWE50 at sears or make a trip to IKEA.

Thanks again!

One more question in anticipation of receiving my set next Wednesday. I saw some discussion earlier about power supplies/surge protectors. Can someone give some guidelines on what is necessary. The salesman at BB tried to convince me that I needed a 200 monster power center; I politely declined and said I would buy my own elsewhere. Other than some inexpensive, 20.00 power strips, I do have an APC LS700 powering my computer that I am thinking of using. It handles 700 volts and has battery backup for 410 watts. Any comments?

TIA

Originally posted by chewy08rx
One more question in anticipation of receiving my set next Wednesday. I saw some discussion earlier about power supplies/surge protectors. Can someone give some guidelines on what is necessary. The salesman at BB tried to convince me that I needed a 200 monster power center; I politely declined and said I would buy my own elsewhere. Other than some inexpensive, 20.00 power strips, I do have an APC LS700 powering my computer that I am thinking of using. It handles 700 volts and has battery backup for 410 watts. Any comments?

TIA

Given that the set has a fan that operates after the set power is turned off in order to cool the bulb and who knows what else ... it makes sense to me to have a 200+ watt UPS to keep that fan going for a few minutes after a power failure.

I guess I'll give the APC power supply a try once the TV arrives. Thanks!

Originally posted by chewy08rx
I guess I'll give the APC power supply a try once the TV arrives. Thanks!

You may not actually want to do that. For all you "new people" (funny I should say that, I'm pretty new myself :D ) just joining us, check out this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=323602

It covers pretty much any question you will ask.

For the specific topic of surge protection, see this one:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2421176#post2421176

Do you need a $300 surge protector/line conditioner? Well, I guess that really depends on if you trust that $20 surge protector from Walmart to protect you. Personally I've never had any problems with them (I use the black RCA brand ones) for my personal computer, which runs about $2300 in components, but for my entertainment center (which runs about $5000) I decided to get a PS Audio Power Director 3.5 which retails for about $1000 (only because I got a killer deal on it though). If you got an extended warranty that covers surge damage, then hey why not. But on the rare chance you do get hit, can you stand to wait for a replacement set to arrive. :p

The Sears salesman who provided my extended coverage plan said the new Sears extended warranty covers surge damage. A good reason to buy at Sears on a Price Match.

I was hoping for some opinions. My 50" GWIII is almost a year old. I have had no problems!! Occassionally it doesn't turn on - it blinks green and turns off, but this is occassionally (always with remote). I can't believe we've had the TV for almost a year. Should I call Sony based on the intermittent turn on problem to request a new bulb? We bought an extended warranty through Magnolia Hi Fi but were told that they specifically don't cover bulbs. (This was before I knew about the bulb issue....) Anyway, since my year is almost up should I call Sony or should I just consider myself extremely fortunate and not give it another thought?

One more thing - what do you clean the screen with? I can't find the cloth it came with.

Originally posted by umr
Pictures are pretty worthless. Take a look at my gallery for an example of a dark scene on my GWII. That PQ is very close to the best a GWIII XBR can exhibit. --UMR-i have a sony 42 inch lcd for 9 months now(on my 3rd lamp-1st lasted 8months-est 1500 hrs--second was osram-dead in the box-3rd b philips version is ok so far) and just bought the sony 34 inch 16x9 (tube)hd tv for the computer room--and what the hell is the black level?looks ok to me either lcd OR tube--i think too many here buy the tv and then analyze it-i DONT think the black levels are any different from the CRTs -for people that WATCH a tv and dont ANALYZE it--and ive turned on my 42 in lcd to SEE the defect regarding the black levels and see no problem--am i taking the wrong drugs? LOL PS ive even wired in the 34 in tube model to enable me to switch back and forth between tvs to check the black level side by side--only difference i see between the 42 is the sony lcd is bigger-and the 34 inch is smaller but sharper--as it should be-due to its smaller size--but as far as black goes-i think its a buncha hooey---nit picking

Steen995,
My Sept build, Oct purchase 42" just lost it's lamp. I never called and lied, so naturally mine went out during the Olympics. If you do call in to get a lamp, make sure you say your lamp light is lit, otherwise they will just try to set you up with a service call. I now believe Sony owes us lamps and wish I had called to get a spare. And another thing, they will send the lamp FedEx and require a signature, so if no one's home-no lamp.

The screen cleaning cloth is like an eyeglass cleaning cloth, I think they suggest plain water.

Oh and also, you may not even realise how much dimmer your set has become...the new lamp is bright!

When watching 4:3 material unstretched, what color are the side bars?

Sidebars are Black when watching in 4:3 on my 50" GWIII. This may be selectable from a menu, but I am not sure. In any case, they default to black on my GWIII.

By the way, the Toshiba 52HM84 has a color on the sidebars in the 4:3 display mode, and they are not easily changable. This is one of the things I did not like about the Toshiba. Also, I did not think the viewing angle was as good or the PQ of the SD.

Alan

I traded in my old cable box for the new fancy HD one (Time Warner Cable). DiscoveryChannel HD looks amazing when the picture is coming in clear. Unfortunately, many times when a new HD picture is displayed (the camera cuts to a different shot) the image first appears low rez then progressively increases resolution until finally looking like it should. I've also noticed a good bit of compression when there is lots of motion. Is this just how HD looks/works currently? Even if I get far away from the 70" screen, I can still see the image progressively increase resolution.

Thanks for help,
Jason Gary

Does the Sony SUGW2 STAND (for the 42" GWIII) have anything on the top of it to prevent the TV from sliding around on top of it?

(I know the Tech Craft stand has 2 little plastic holes on either side of the top shelf that something on the bottom of the TV goes into to prevent it from sliding side to side...)

bee1, normally the TV will use black. If you are using a cable or sat box you may have the option (or not) to use different colors. The TW Scientific Atlanta boxes default to grey.

Jason,

IMO, It's often hard to tell what is causing HD artifacting (blockiness). In some cases (such as the olympic diving coverage) it's the source network feed. But, in the case of cable or sat, it could be a multitude of issues with the service provide. In my experience Discovery HD and inHD are the best quality HD I've seen on my Time Warner cable setup (SA3250 cable box). If these channels are not looking good for you I'd probably give a call to TW and complain. It could be anything from an issue at your local TW to the line into your house. DiscoveryHD should be rock solid 98% of the time. Hope that helps.

davidos,
I have this stand, and yes indeed, it does have indentations so that the tv will stay put. There is also a quick-release strap in the back that you can connect as the front of the tv is heavier than the rear due to it's design. Overall, and excellent quality stand, although very pricey.

-Adam

Adam,

Is the back of the stand tapered inwards so it can go in a corner? I bought the Tech Craft stand but it is 8" higher than the Sony stand and just makes the TV look more like a monolith... I'm just looking to reduce the footprint a little more and SECURE it so my 1 year old doesn't hurt herself by pushing it around...

davidos,

It is somewhat tapered yes. Just in the rear corners. See: http://images.jr.com/productimages/SONSUGW2.PNG?CELL=380,380&QLT=67&CNT=1.1&FTR=3&COLORCALIBRATION=1.9&BGCOLOR=FFFFFF&CVT=jpeg

Also, there is no way you will have any worries about your 1 year old pushing this thing around. It is HEAVY. A good 30 lbs heavier than the TV it will be supporting. If you would like to see the combination, I have a pic of it all in action here:
http://mak.zopelabs.com/hdtv-setup.jpg

Every time I turn on my new 42" GWIII it goes through the language setup and asks if i want to program the channels.... I must have done something wrong... Please let me know what to do. thank you!

Let it go ahead and program the channels - even if you don't have any antenna connected. I think once you let it do that, it will stop asking this question. There may be other ways too, but that one worked for me.

Originally posted by davidos
Does the Sony SUGW2 STAND (for the 42" GWIII) have anything on the top of it to prevent the TV from sliding around on top of it?

(I know the Tech Craft stand has 2 little plastic holes on either side of the top shelf that something on the bottom of the TV goes into to prevent it from sliding side to side...)

Yes it does. I have this stand and wish I had purchased another brand. The top shelf only allows a component that is 3-1/4 high.

Sorry if this has been answered before. I did some searches but considering the length of this thread, I wasn't able to narrow down the answer completely.

I own a 42we610 and I understand that the native resolution is not 720 but somewhere between 720 and 1080. What is the exact native resolution? Also, what are most people using for their resolution outputs of the DVD player and HD Sat. box? Would 720 work better or 1080?

Originally posted by davidos
Does the Sony SUGW2 STAND (for the 42" GWIII) have anything on the top of it to prevent the TV from sliding around on top of it?

(I know the Tech Craft stand has 2 little plastic holes on either side of the top shelf that something on the bottom of the TV goes into to prevent it from sliding side to side...)

Yes. Two black rubber stands that grip the TV, along with a looped one inch clip on that goes directly into the TV. Pretty secure. Does the techcraft have this?

The native resolution is 788p.

As for what you set your box too, it would depend on the source

im on cablevision--setting is 1080i on box-any other and you have to deal with bars on hdtv-and stretch the pic--totally unacceptable to me-seems to me on cable 1080i is the standard

Originally posted by krajyk
Yes. Two black rubber stands that grip the TV, along with a looped one inch clip on that goes directly into the TV. Pretty secure. Does the techcraft have this?

the techcraft has 2 plastic circles onthe right and left sides that something on the tv fits into... and a screw-on metal clamp in the back that is similar to the looped clip that you refer to but only protects the TV from tipping and not sliding forward (i guess the plastic circles protect from sliding...)

The problem with the Tech Craft stand is that it is 23" high vs. 15" for the Sony so my eye level when on the couch is slightly above the "Sony" label on the front instead of in the middle of the screen. It also makes the TV seem really tall...

Basically, my wife freaked when she saw what a monster the whole thing was and how much space of her "precious" living room it takes up - so i thought maybe the Sony stand would make the whole thing look smaller! (and better eye level).

Originally posted by krajyk
Sorry if this has been answered before. I did some searches but considering the length of this thread, I wasn't able to narrow down the answer completely.

I own a 42we610 and I understand that the native resolution is not 720 but somewhere between 720 and 1080. What is the exact native resolution? Also, what are most people using for their resolution outputs of the DVD player and HD Sat. box? Would 720 work better or 1080?

It's like 780 or 790p.

And I set my HD Tivo to 1080i for HD content. It generally looks better than 720p, although it's barely noticable. I think for the 720p source content, it looks the same, and for the 1080i content, it looks a little better.

davidos,

Which techcraft stand are you referring to?

"the techcraft has 2 plastic circles onthe right and left sides that something on the tv fits into... and a screw-on metal clamp in the back that is similar to the looped clip that you refer to but only protects the TV from tipping and not sliding forward (i guess the plastic circles protect from sliding...)"

Thanks in advance.

I was looking at the techcraft SWE50 from sears which is 19 3/4" high.

I just picked up this TV about three weeks ago. It is the KF-50WE610. I use it mostly with my Xbox. I would probably watch more TV but my cable provider is not the greatest. I don't have any DVD player other than the Xbox, but it seems to do okay.

The best looking Xbox game I have played thus far is Ninja Gaiden. The game is very challenging but if you can get past the difficulty the game will blossom into the best 3rd person action title of all time! He, he, typical gamer enthusiasm!

The game supports 16:9 and 480p. The graphics are stunning and the frame rates are steady and smooth. I am hooked up to the TV via the Xbox high def. AV pack.

I tried Riddick. It was a good looking game but the theme of prison life was too depressing for me, so I couldn't really get into it.

This 50 inch Sony is really something. I upgraded from a Sony 27 inch Triniton, which was really a nice TV but it wasn't HDTV and it wasn't widescreen. I went out shopping with my son one weekend looking / window shopping for an HDTV and came home with this 50 inch Sony!

The only adjustments I have made on the picture quality has been through the menu options. Nothing technical at all, just used my eye. I am using my old TV stand that I was using for the 27 incher.

I would be open to any knowledgeable suggestions or tips on how to get the most out of this TV, other than changing the cable provider. I am stuck with the one I have at the moment. They have an exclusive contract for the whole apartment building. Maybe a different DVD player ?

Lucky Ducky,

If you have a window/balcony facing east, you might want to check into voom satellite services for a better signal.

As good as DVD appears on this set even with one of the better DVD players, high definition is in another ball park.

Also do a search for UMR tweaks. There is a lot you can do to this set.

Originally posted by chewy08rx
davidos,

Which techcraft stand are you referring to?

"the techcraft has 2 plastic circles onthe right and left sides that something on the tv fits into... and a screw-on metal clamp in the back that is similar to the looped clip that you refer to but only protects the TV from tipping and not sliding forward (i guess the plastic circles protect from sliding...)"

Thanks in advance.

I was looking at the techcraft SWE50 from sears which is 19 3/4" high.

it's the 42" tech craft stand.... the 50" should be fine.

Like many I'm new here. I've been shopping for a while and I'm down to either the Sammy HLP 50" or the GWIII 50".

Sony has a deal thru CC right now offering no interest/no pmts until 3/06. This makes the Sony extra attractive. I'm a bit hesitant because of reports I've heard of motion blurring. I've seen a few folks who've said it isn't noticable and others who chose a different TV because of it. I know it's all about personal preference, and quite honestly, it appears the Sammy DLP's still have too many issues for me (dithering drives me nuts, plus desynch issues, poor SD pictures, etc.) .

However, I seem to recall someone mentioning the GWIV's might have a shorter LCD "response time." Something like 17ms from the current 30ms, which would all but eliminate blurring. Is this accurate? Can anyone confirm that?

If that's true, that fact ( and the brighter bulb) and the financing option will clinch the GWIV for me and I'll head straight to CC!! (i can live with the silver case)

Thanks!

NCRider,
I haven't experienced any motion blurring at all on my set. I have an old projector that experiences this all the time and honestly, I'm not sure who could possibly see it on the GWIII if it is there at all. I watch rather fast paced sports, of course the action movie, and there isn't any blurring that I can see. Perhaps if you are a gamer, and like a 3rdPS type game you may experience some blurring, but you will see that even on straight high-end LCD monitors for your PC as well. You won't totally eliminate blurring anyway until we are at levels of below 12-13ms response.

If I were you, I'd head out to CC anyway. They do have the 30 day return policy. Try it out for a while and see for yourself.

I've had a 60" GWIII since last October.

As a perpectual upgrader/tweaker, I've been unable to find a replacement set including the new ones that are coming out that in my opinion provides as good a total viewing experience as the GWIII.

Although I wished the blackest blacks were darker, the other sets I've seen with darker blacks also has motion blurring and dithering artifacts that were there all the time, not just during dark scenes.

I do not see any motion blurring on my 50" GWIII.

Originally posted by DaJoker
NCRider,
I haven't experienced any motion blurring at all on my set. I have an old projector that experiences this all the time and honestly, I'm not sure who could possibly see it on the GWIII if it is there at all. I watch rather fast paced sports, of course the action movie, and there isn't any blurring that I can see. Perhaps if you are a gamer, and like a 3rdPS type game you may experience some blurring, but you will see that even on straight high-end LCD monitors for your PC as well. You won't totally eliminate blurring anyway until we are at levels of below 12-13ms response.

I swear I'm experiencing some sort of blurring or streaking on certain Gamecube and X-Box games which are running in 480p mode. Does that seem possible? And does it seem plausible that 480p would cause worse blurring than 480i, since the frame rate is effectively doubled?

For example, in Grand Theft Auto: Vice City for X-Box, in 480p / 16:9 / component video, when I turn my character to look around, the background and sky seem to sort of blur or streak with the motion. I'll admit, I haven't done a side-by-side comparison with a standard analog TV, so I can't be certain it's not the game itself, but I wonder if the GWIII is having problems here with its pixel response time.

I've had this set for many months and haven't previously really noticed this phenomenon. Any thoughts on this from anyone?

If 480I doesn't show it (GWIII is deinterlacing) and 480p does(game deinterlacing) then its the game.

There are basically two possible reasons the game may be blurring, and it's not always easy to tell which cause it is. LCD's in the 15-30ms response range will have some blurring associated with rapidly changing scenes produced by video games. Not so much with a motion picture type event (television, dvd, etc). This usually isn't noticable, but there are cases where it is. The other cause (and this is largely the main cause most times), is that the game hardware itself can't keep up. Limits in CPU speed, bus speed, memory speed and GPU speed on the video hardware greatly affect this. If you aren't getting blurring, then you might just get plain old jerkiness in the gameplay when games push your hardware to the limit. And let's face it, with all the 3D and such that is so common now, it really does push limits.

Originally posted by JimP
If 480I doesn't show it (GWIII is deinterlacing) and 480p does(game deinterlacing) then its the game.
But note that game consoles don't start with a 480i signal and then de-interlace it to produce a 480p signal. Rather, they render the output to a frame-buffer at a certain resolution (e.g. 640x480), and then some additional circuitry sends that to the TV, interlaced if necessary. So in the case of consoles, isn't it the case that you really are getting more frames with a 480p signal (assuming the console can support the full frame rate in both 480i and 480p), i.e. 60fps vs. 30fps?

DaJoker, thanks for your comments. I don't think the problem is that the console can't keep up with the desired frame rate; this usually manifests itself as jerkiness or such. When I'm seeing is that the game is smooth as silk, but that the graphics just sort of smear when one twists the camera around fast. Hence, this may really be a symptom of the GWIII LCD panels not being up to handling 60 very different frames per second.

OK. I don't know who everyone else may have gotten when calling about a replacement bulb. But the guy I had an online chat with had the following comments (I admit I was little annoyed...):

Robert: Sony has not found any problems or failures with this series of TVs. However this seems to be a rare case.

Kristine: Model KF-50WE610 - an October build. It is my understanding that this problem was only recently fixed and that many have had light bulb problems.

Robert: The replacement bulb lamp block for the TV is available for purchase from our website.

Robert: I am not aware of such issues with this TV.

Kristine: Seeing the #s of people on line who have had no problem getting a replacement bulb. I am truly shocked that you are unaware or unwilling to find this problem in your system. Where do I call in the future to find someone else to help me with this issue?

Robert: Sony does not acknowledge the comments published on third party sites.


I know sugar/honey can go further, but I felt the guy was out right lyeing to me. -- Just had to vent. I think I'll call the place where I bought the TV, maybe they can get a bulb from Sony.

Slordak,

FYI, Vice City has a motion trail feature than I found most annoying. Check the video options and try turning this off. I've played VC on the PS2 with this feature off, no blurring in sight.

Originally posted by steen995
I know sugar/honey can go further, but I felt the guy was out right lyeing to me. -- Just had to vent. I think I'll call the place where I bought the TV, maybe they can get a bulb from Sony.

FYIW, It's not the guy, it's Sony. I tried to get some pre-sales information from Sony regarding the GW's, specifically asking about the known bulb/ballast problems. "There is not now, nor has there ever been, a bulb/ballast problem with the Sony GW's" was his reply (Kevin was his name). Also gave the same response about third-part sites when I told him how many people have reported the bulb problem.

My set is approximately two months old and I called Sony when my bulb went out. After describing the problem to the rep, she said " it sounds like premature bulb burnout, we will send you a replacement out for free today". Two days later I had my new bulb via fed ex and I'm happy once again.
I was disappointed that the bulb was a Phillips and I am concerned that the problem will re-occur, but only time will tell. The Sony rep seemed very helpful.

Originally posted by jrenner
Slordak,

FYI, Vice City has a motion trail feature than I found most annoying. Check the video options and try turning this off. I've played VC on the PS2 with this feature off, no blurring in sight.
Ahh so it is the game. Thank you very much for this feedback. I thought the GWIII was producing this artifact, even though I hadn't really seen much of this type of thing in my past months of ownership. I'll try and hunt down that in-game option to adjust the appearance.

I have my set for 2 weeks now and from day one there is a smaller than a pencil eraser sized blotch on the far right side of the screen.

When you are looking at a pure grey screen (when stb has no signal), it shows up as a black spot.

Anyone know if this would be a dead pixel?
I tried to take a picture of it but it did not come out well.

I am not sure it is worth boxing it up and returning as it is not too noticeable when I watch regular tv. Highly noticeable on the pure grey screen but I dont sit and stare at that too long.

Originally posted by roblake
Although the XBR runs Linux deep inside, you can use just the display (LCD TV) with a DVI display card by buying a DVI-D cable (that's one without the audio connections) and plugging it in. Worked first time with an Apple laptop. Awsome display!

I found this older message that talks about using the XBR as a computer display via the DVI input. However, the sony manual states that the DVI input is not for use with personal computers. Why? Is there some risk involved with doing the above procedure?

Jason Gary

Hello all,

After reading through the 119(!) pages of this thread, I just wanted to say hello. I bought the 50WE610 from Best Buy (used the 10% off coupon that came in the mail, and was also surprised that the set also came down in price, by $300) last week and got their Performance Service Plan. The guy said it covers the bulb, too, but I'm going back there to get that statement in writing.

Anyway, I have to wait to play with my new toy until we move to our new house in 2 weeks. It will be delivered on the 25th. I'm anxious, excited and nervous. I'm hoping I get a set that's free from dead/stuck pixels (or at least, nothing I would see from everyday watching), a bulb that goes out after a few days (that would make my wife mad and say "I told you so," since I had to do some convincing for her to agree to get this after she found out about the life span of the bulb), or whatever else can go wrong. With my luck, I'll probably have all 3 or more problems. :(

This has been a very informative and enlightening thread. I know I can find help if I do run into problems, or just have setup questions.

If anyone has a SA TiVo connected to this TV (42, 50, or 60 in), how does it look OOTB? What recording quality do you use? What tweaks have you done, if any, (UM or SM with umr) to make it look better? I plan to connect my TiVo to it through S-Video but some posts here say composite, or coax even, will look better.

Also, where can I find out if my DVD player (Sony DVP-NC655P) is better at showing progressive (420p?) than the TV itself? Or it's a subjective thing?

It's good to see pictures of the TV's on their stands. I'm looking at some from Ikea---Magiker (I have yet to see a picture of this one though) or Oppli---or from Target---the one with the frosted cabinet doors. At least I know you guys are satisfied with the look and height of those stands.

Thanks for all the information! :)

Well i did it. Bought the 50 gw3 hopefully 8 1/2 feet is good for this set. I got it from sears on a pricematch it was in the middle of 2200-2300. Hopefully all is well on this set.

I just got my denon 1910 dvd player and hooked it up to my 42we610. After configuring color and brightness off of DVE, I noticed that when the blues were configured, the reds and green were pretty off. Has anyone experienced this as well? Is there anyway I can fix this without going into the service menu? I want to leave the service menu as the last resort and then I'd probably just do UMR tweak.

Also, after the brightness config, everything looks a bit dark. Maybe it's because I'm comparing it to the vivid or standard settings which are defintely a lot brighter. The brightness was set to around 30-40%. Does this sound about right?

ISSues:
What did you use for the price match? I bought at Sears a month ago and got just under $2600. for the price match, which was very good at that time. Please post, or send me a private message. Thanks for you help! You will love you GWIII.
Alan

Alanpgh,

Did you ever resolve your stereo volume problem? What value did you set for svol in the service menu? To me the real solution would be to set the output to "fixed" even when the internal speakers are on, then you could independently control TV and stereo.

Does anyone have discrete remote control codes that will set speakers off without going through the setup menu?

holabr:

I think the default setting for SVOL was 4. Lower number raises volume. Higher number lowers volume but provides more adjustment range. I ended up setting it at 6 for the time being.

You have a good idea to set the volume on the external output to fixed. I'll try it later to see if I can find a setting that let's me keep the internal speakers on while not overpowering the Home theater speakers when I switch to the FM radio or DVD feeds. Let me know if this works for you and what setting you use. Any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks,
Alan

I just read on another thread that someone was notified that their new 42WE655 will be shipped on Sept. 10. So, it looks like the GWIV's will be available soon. Let us know if any of you actually see a GWIV anywhere.

Alan

ISSues:

I would also like to hear more details of your pricematch at sears since I just purchased the tv at BB for around 2600. Thanks!

There was some discussion in another thread, so I re-posted this here:

Here's a minor problem I am having as indicated below. Do any of you have this problem, and can you make any suggestions?

My post from the other thread follows:
Funny you should mention the Scientific Atlanta 3250HD box. I have a Sony GWIII, but the SA box turns off and resets about 5 minutes after I turn off the TV. Have any of you experienced this?

Thanks,
Alan

yes i have--you have the cable box set to bypass when off--to change this go to the settings button on the remote--top left--press twice-scroll down to display-power on--change from bypass to when tv is off-to show time when powered off-and NOT bypass and can also change the grey borders to black-lottsa good things there-can also set box for last channel--instead of ch2 alla time

When watching DVD movies do any of you turn on the Cinema feature on the Grand Wega in the Display settings or does the TV automatically see it as a DVD and don't need it.

One last thing I have pretty good SD output now with the TV and am very happy with it but was wondering if any of you have tried the line amps and saw an even bigger improvement in the SD pic quality.

Just finished playing around with digital video essentials, sort of interesting. On a side note, could anyone comment on average number of stuck or dead pixels on their GWIII. On a few of the test patterns, roughly a dozen or so such pixels were noted on the right middle of the screen. Granted, I cannot see these under normal viewing, I was just curious if others have noted similar numbers.

Thanks in advance!

yes magic-i have the sony 42 in lcd and got off ebay for half what the stores want-and new too--the monster hts2000 surge and power conditioner-really cleaned up the std stns going through the cable in and outs-but what really made a huge difference was radio shacks 4 way cable and sat signal booster--i was going thru 2 -four way splitters-and my jaw dropped at the diff.best 50 bucks i ever spent--tried a couple of different manufs boosters and the radio shack won hands down

I have a question that may seem a bit strange, but here goes:
I need to add a pre-amplifier to the variable output of my GWIII. Can anyone suggest a low cost, compact preamp that I order online?

Thanks for your help!
Alan

alanpgh

Preamp or receiver(which includes preamp as well as amplifier)?

JimP:

Preamp only for signal boost before going to the receiver.
Need to increase signal to match receiver input so I do not have to set the receiver volume so high that when I switch to FM, I don't overdrive the speakers.

Thanks,
Alan

alanpgh

Sorry, but I don't believe that's the function of a preamp.

Do you currently have the GWIII 610 model? If so, I can check on my system. Just off the top of my head, I'd think that there is some fixed setting on the GWIII that send the correct signal to the receiver similar to how a DVD player operates. Then the receiver handles it from there.

There is also the possibility that on the receiver there is an adjustment that allows you to vary the input device sound level that is independant of the regular volume control. I have a B&K Ref 50 preamp that has such a function. This is to avoid the situation you described about different sound levels when switching from one device to another.

OK, everyone here (and several hours at the store) have convinced me that motion blurring with the LCD isn't a problem. So my choice of the Sammy DLP or Sony LCD is now down to the Sony. This is extra attractive with CC's no interest/no payment offer right now on Sony's.

Here's my question:

My first choice is the KDF-60WF655 (the new model 60"). I'm willing to buy it sight-unseen because of the reported improvements (most notably reduced screendoor and improved lifespan, blacks and brightness). BUT, CC doesn't know if they are going to carry it in time to take advantage of the financing offer (ends 10-02).

Which brings me to my dilemma (again, not a bad problem to have): If the GWIV 60" isn't available, do I go with the GWIII 60" or GWIV 50"?? Which would you choose? I know CC will carry both and both will have the financing option. Does the bigger size of the GWIII 60" offset the improvements in the GWIV? Has anyone seen the pictures on the IV's to know if there's a notable improvement?

I can't imaging improving the picture on an already great TV, but I wanted to get your opinions...

I want to try to do this today! Please, any help is appreciated!

NCRider,

Why did you rule out the Mitsubishi or Panasonic DLP? I would not choose a Sammy, but the current Mitsubishi's look to have better PQ than any of the lower end Grand Wega's and might be better than the XBR's as well.

All the DLP's to me have a fair amount of dithering. That is, I can see movement or blurred squares along contrast lines during motion. I've read that it's because of the single chip in the DLP's and is resolved in the the 3 chip versions which are considerably higher priced.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a Mitsubishi Bigot. I love 'em. I've always had a Mitsu TV in the house. But their new DLP's to me aren't there yet -- too much glare (my local BB took out the glass panel on their display) and that ever present dithering.

NCRider,

You need to be careful about discerning between dithering and source pixelation. Problems with dithering and DLP technology are not a given. I have seen DLP front projectors with little to no dithering. While Samsung DLP's are swimming with it. I think it has more to do with the electronics behind the DLP than the DLP itself. What I saw on the Mitsubishi looked more source related than electronics induced. I am generally a Sony fan, but it appeared to me that Mitsubishi and possibly Panasonic have finally done a credible job with DLP in the RPTV form factor.

You also need to get back from any of these displays. The source material is generally not perfect and will show flaws even at normal viewing distances. What I saw yesterday on the Mits and Panasonic DLP's would lead me to very carefully consider those displays over any LCD RPTV.

Thanks! I'll give those a fresh look today.

I don't believe either has a no int/no pmt option right now and I need a way to get them into my living room easily. (my current 12 yr old tube is nearing it's last day)

Do you think the upgrades in the GWIV's are worth holding out for? Kinda hard to say without seeing them, I know.

Again, all feedback is appreciated!

NCRider,

Waiting on the GWIV's is your call, but I find the black levels of LCD to be lacking. I always wanted a DLP RPTV, but they have been poorly implemented in the past. The latest Panasonic and Mitsubishi implementations look much better than the others that I have seen in the past. The big questions I still have are rainbows still a problem, can I calibrate these things accurately and are the electronics and optics really as good as they looked in the store. I would also try and verify that they have a design that keeps the dust out.

I too always wanted a DLP RPTV. I think I latched on too much to the Samsung (listening to the sales guy too much?) and got disheartened when I kept seeing imperfections in the picture.

Great feedback though. I really do appreciate it!! I'm going to head over and give the Panny and Mitsu a new look today. Thanks!

Latching on to Samsung for anything is probably a mistake. I have been very disappointed in all of their video products. Be it DVD players, HDTV receivers or TV's. I would look at products from almost anyone else instead. The fever on this forum for their products is surprising based on my experience with them.

Somehow they manage to mangle perfectly good components from TI and Faroudja and produce a picture that does not come close to that produced by their front projector cousins.

I took the plunge yesterday and bought the 60" GWIII (at sears) to be delivered on the 29th. Their original sale price minus an additional 10% put it in at $3100. Tax and service plan extra of course :)

I want to thank all the posters, as this forum has been an invaluable resource for information and being able to have answers for the wifes concerns and questions before she voiced them.

HDTV from D* is next. $99.00 deal here I come

I've had my GWIII 50" for about a month. I turned it on today and all the screen does is diplay bright white. Every source. Just Bright white. I can hear the sound, but absolutely nothing on the screen.

Anyone have a similar problem? I'm about to call for service.

-----------------------------

UPDATE: Turning the TV off and on didn't help. However, I unplugged it for about five minutes, and then plugged it back in and turned it back on. Seems ok now.

Still wondering if I should call for service... grrrrrr.

I got my KF60WE610 GWIII back around 12-01-03 and it has worked very nice up until now. I have not had a pro calibration done, but I did run a couple of the popular DVD self untilities myself and it looks or looked great for the last 8 months or so.

Anyway on to the problem. I was switching channels and heard a "pop" noise and the TV just went off. The sound was not that loud but you could definately hear it. I turned it back on and just get the green light flashing and no picture. I unplugged for a minute or so and tried again and got the same thing. The only light that you see upon power up is the green status light flashing. When you power it up you can hear a light hissing sound for about 3 seconds and then nothing. Sunny day out .. no storms .. no electrical spikes of any sort. I do have a service plan on the TV, but would like to know if anyone has any clue as to what might be the problem. I thought the TV as getting a little dark over the past couple of days, but my wife says I was seeing things. I dunno, any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks

Drake,

Sounds like your lamp failed. They can shatter when the fail. With around 3000 psig of internal pressure they can make a pretty loud pop. The dimming you saw is also common right before the lamp dies.

Originally posted by umr
Drake,

Sounds like your lamp failed. They can shatter when the fail. With around 3000 psig of internal pressure they can make a pretty loud pop. The dimming you saw is also common right before the lamp dies.

Would the lamp light not come on if the lamp died? I would not think the lamp has enough hours on it. TV has maybe an average of 3 hours a day on it for 8 months.

If it is the lamp is it posible to put a brighter lamp in it? Say instead of a 100w bulb put a 120w? I'd say not, but worth an ask.

Thanks

Drake,

I know of no way to use a lamp other than the one Sony supplies.

I misread your post. I thought you were saying the lamp light was on. Even if it is not it sure sounds like a lamp failure. Why don't you just pull it out and look. It will be obvious if it shattered inside? Call Sony for a new lamp if it failed or service if it is still good.

They had some lamp problems with these models early on. You may be seeing a failure from that.

Quick question. When you set up your DVD player is it better to tell the DVD player you have a 16:9 TV set or leave it thinking its 4:3. Just wondering what you all thought produced the best pic quality on DVD's on your sets.

thanks

Well, I got the GWIII 60" yesterday. CC price matched Sears' lower price with the Sony no int/no pmt financing. It'll be delivered Thurs or Fri.

Thanks everyone for your insight. The info on this board exceptional!

Now to find a suitable stand....

...any suggestions? Looking for something more 'furniture like' to conceal components and wires.

Thanks!

I think the Tech Craft SWE50 also fits the 60" Sony.
www.techcraft.net

I need some help on stand height. I will be getting the 70 inch XBR. It will actualy be the new 1080P model but lets assume the viewing angles are similar. I would like to purchase this stand now for it. It is 24" tall. Does this seem o.k. for those of you with the current 70 inch model?

http://diamondcase.com/TT/TT_HTML_Files/TT400.HTML

24 is a little high. You generally want to keep around 18".

Originally posted by umr
Drake,

I know of no way to use a lamp other than the one Sony supplies.

I misread your post. I thought you were saying the lamp light was on. Even if it is not it sure sounds like a lamp failure. Why don't you just pull it out and look. It will be obvious if it shattered inside? Call Sony for a new lamp if it failed or service if it is still good.

They had some lamp problems with these models early on. You may be seeing a failure from that.

After checking the bulb it is bad. It is a phillips bulb, but maybe that is the correct one. Anyway, what is the correct or most optimum bulb to use and where can I get one quickly?

Thanks

The fastest way I know of is what I suggested. Call Sony they should express mail you one under warranty. You might be able to get one under warranty from your dealer as well if they have it in stock.

Originally posted by Silkdad
I've had my GWIII 50" for about a month. I turned it on today and all the screen does is diplay bright white. Every source. Just Bright white. I can hear the sound, but absolutely nothing on the screen.

Anyone have a similar problem? I'm about to call for service.

-----------------------------

UPDATE: Turning the TV off and on didn't help. However, I unplugged it for about five minutes, and then plugged it back in and turned it back on. Seems ok now.

Still wondering if I should call for service... grrrrrr.

Well, whatever it was, it seems to be ok now... In the past 24 hours, the TV has been turned off and on multiple times. I did some more research and have not uncovered anyone else with this problem. Weird.

Using DVI? Might be an odd DVI/synch problem. What is the source device you were using?

Originally posted by AbMagFab
Using DVI? Might be an odd DVI/synch problem. What is the source device you were using?

It was like that on every source... When i first turned it on, it was on component input (from my HD DVR cable box).

its the lamp--zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz so tired of the lamp problem--dont get me wrong--im on my 3rd lamp in 8 months--just a shame sony releases these PROBLEMS(lamps) with their tvs that we pay thousands for to=have a PROBLEM-we are guinea pigs so to speak-theyre in such a hurry to get it to market they dont give enough testing time on new technologies-soooo WE are the =further testing needed(guinea pigs)=AFTER sales-BSTRDS-NO appreciation on buying their brand--none whatsoever

Drake, I just had this problem with a Sept build (purchased in Oct) 42". UMR is correct that calling Sony will get you a new lamp the fastest (and for free) Here are a couple of suggestions: Make sure you tell them that the lamp light is blinking (even if it isn't) otherwise they will try to set you up for a service call. They will tell you the lamp will arrive in 3 days, but it will be 2. They will send the lamp FedEx and someone has to be home to sign for it. I had to go to FedEx to pick it up because I didn't know this and was expecting it the next day. The new lamp will be so bright that you will realize your old one was going bad for awhile. Mine died during the Olympics so it could have been worse!

I've only had the TV for 1 month and I noticed a blue stuck pixel in the center of the screen. I wasn't looking for it, I just happened to see it when watching a dark show. I called Sony and they're sending a video technician on Fri. What exactly can they do to fix this? Is it just them trying to appease me that its not a big problem? Perhaps I need to make a big fuss for them to do something. If anyone has any experience trying to fix this, let me know.

Just picked up my new KF42WE610 today.. and all great so far.. Just a few questions... [In order of importance!] if you all could! I think there are some great experts in here and I'm glad I found this place..


1. The "bulb problem..." My set is an August 2004 build. Serial number 914xxxx. Would this be past the point where the "bulb/buzz/startup" issue was fixed? (In other words, should I be safe?) I really don't want to be having to replace my bulb every 6 months..

What about this "fan issue" I've heard very little about? Is there anything else I should "watch out for" on this set?


2. Extended Warranties.. I didn't buy Circuit City's 4yr warranty for $499.. To me that just sounded like too much (1/5th of the cost of the TV..) However, now I'm considering it, since projection repairs are so expensive. I know you can buy a warranty directly from Sony. Any opinions on this? Does anyone know how much the Sony warranty costs? I'm leaning towards the sony warranty - especially if it's cheaper.. however I've heard rumors that CC's 4yr covers bulbs -- which could pay for itself.


3. Moving the TV!.. I'll be moving in about 6-7 mohths, and one of the reasons I liked this set so much was since it's only 70lbs.. Other than not lying it flat, any other precautions necessary when moving the thing? I'm keeping the original box (however tattered - I can reinforce it a bit) for shipping.. Is that the best way? Someone actually mentioned shipping cases, and to get a "screen protector".. I'm not sure what this is -- is there a "screen protector" for this model?

4. Using a UPS.... Do most folks here have their TVs on a UPS, in case power fails while the unit is on, preventing the bulb cool-down?

5. Black level/grey background.. I know this comes with the territory with LCD RPTVs (or any LCD really).. But is it normal that the absolute-black level (say on a blank input selection) on this TV is rather gray - that is, in a pitch-black room, a blank screen (no input) still emits a fair amount of light? Is there any adjustment to this?


I know this is a lot to ask.. but I am new here, and hope someone could at least answer a couple.. I'd really appreciate it!

This is a nice stand fairly inexpensive

http://www.bush-furniture-online.com/xmodels/bush/VS31543h.jpg

And here is the stand in use with a GWIII! It also has the matching bookcases. All this for less than $800 delivered! The other great thing about it are the glass doors that can be easily child proofed(see picture if you need a reason why this is important). I also put the center section to good use by placing my sub in their. It does dampen it a bit but if your wife refuses to have this large black box in the corner then that is your best option.

Originally posted by egads
Drake, I just had this problem with a Sept build (purchased in Oct) 42". UMR is correct that calling Sony will get you a new lamp the fastest (and for free) Here are a couple of suggestions: Make sure you tell them that the lamp light is blinking (even if it isn't) otherwise they will try to set you up for a service call. They will tell you the lamp will arrive in 3 days, but it will be 2. They will send the lamp FedEx and someone has to be home to sign for it. I had to go to FedEx to pick it up because I didn't know this and was expecting it the next day. The new lamp will be so bright that you will realize your old one was going bad for awhile. Mine died during the Olympics so it could have been worse!

Thanks, I called Sony this morn and told them the bulb light was on and they are sending out a lamp to me. They said the lamp will be here tomorrow or the next day so I can handle that. Thanks for the heads up.

Originally posted by AbMagFab
24 is a little high. You generally want to keep around 18".
Hello,

Is 24 inches really high for this TV? I know it's best to stay near the height of the Sony stand since they supposedly know the optimal height for the TV they made. I am looking at this Uptown Frosted Glass Entertainment Stand from Target because it has a reasonable price. However, the height of this stand is 24.5 in. I've seen a few people here use this exact stand with the GWIII, and they don't say they have a problem with the height. Is it up to each of us what looks best, or there is a factual reason for staying around 18 in?

Thanks.


Soon-to-be-owner of a KF50WE610

Originally posted by umr
The fastest way I know of is what I suggested. Call Sony they should express mail you one under warranty. You might be able to get one under warranty from your dealer as well if they have it in stock.
In case this happens to my GWIII *knock on wood* would it be better to call Sony for the bulb, or through Best Buy, where I got the TV from? I got their Performance Service Plan with the TV. Based on what you said, it seems it would be faster to have Sony send the replacement bulb, rather than wait for Best Buy to have a technician come and look at the TV. I don't know if the technician will bring a bulb with him, or he will look at it and determine a failed bulb, then come back later, the next day, or whenever to bring the replacement. I can't wait that long. Unless someone can tell me otherwise.

I will have to remember to say that the lamp light is blinking. Thanks for that tip.


Soon-to-be-owner of a KF50WE610

I have an SWE50 Tech Craft stand. Paid under $200. on a price match from Sears. This is for the 50" GWIII. If you have a 42", you will need the SWE42. Not stocked at Sears but widely available online. www.techcraft.net
SWE50:
http://www.techcraft.net/htm/products/comp/swe50.htm

Also, I have aJuly build. I think the bulb problem has been resolved in these newer builds.

Fan noise is not a problem for me.

I purchased the extended warranty from Sears. Considered it a worthwhile investment/insurance policy.

Good Luck!

Alan

Originally posted by krajyk
I've only had the TV for 1 month and I noticed a blue stuck pixel in the center of the screen. I wasn't looking for it, I just happened to see it when watching a dark show. I called Sony and they're sending a video technician on Fri. What exactly can they do to fix this? Is it just them trying to appease me that its not a big problem? Perhaps I need to make a big fuss for them to do something. If anyone has any experience trying to fix this, let me know.

Let me ask a more simplier question. Has anyone gotten a dead pixel either fixed or repaired for free from Sony?

Originally posted by MJedi
Hello,

Is 24 inches really high for this TV? I know it's best to stay near the height of the Sony stand since they supposedly know the optimal height for the TV they made.
Soon-to-be-owner of a KF50WE610

The 24” stands work just fine. If you have a really low couch or you sit on the floor you might have viewing angle problems but as long as you sit at least 8 feet back from the TV it should be fine. The good thing about the 24” height TV stands is that your 1 year old son can not reach the TV screen even when he stands on his tippy toes! Not a problem if you don’t have kids though.

Originally posted by MJedi
In case this happens to my GWIII *knock on wood* would it be better to call Sony for the bulb, or through Best Buy, where I got the TV from? I got their Performance Service Plan with the TV. Based on what you said, it seems it would be faster to have Sony send the replacement bulb, rather than wait for Best Buy to have a technician come and look at the TV. I don't know if the technician will bring a bulb with him, or he will look at it and determine a failed bulb, then come back later, the next day, or whenever to bring the replacement. I can't wait that long. Unless someone can tell me otherwise.

I will have to remember to say that the lamp light is blinking. Thanks for that tip.


Soon-to-be-owner of a KF50WE610

Never depend on Best Buy for any service!

I bought mine from Best Buy and I had called them about the lamp problem almost 10 times. Every time they just kept telling me to call a service tech and wait for another month. I finally called Sony and I had the bulb two days later and I haven’t had any problems since. The Best Buy warranty is useless unless you are planning on having 4 service visits to get the lemon law exchange.

Originally posted by mpgxsvcd
The 24” stands work just fine. If you have a really low couch or you sit on the floor you might have viewing angle problems but as long as you sit at least 8 feet back from the TV it should be fine. The good thing about the 24” height TV stands is that your 1 year old son can not reach the TV screen even when he stands on his tippy toes! Not a problem if you don’t have kids though.
Hmm... I measured around 6 feet for my viewing distance. Will that be okay? As for kids, well I have 2 of them! That's why I like the one from Target: the cabinet doors. I assume the cabinet doors can be locked, or at least I can easily install those Safety 1st latches.

Thanks for the reply.

Originally posted by krajyk
Let me ask a more simplier question. Has anyone gotten a dead pixel either fixed or repaired for free from Sony?

Yes.

Originally posted by umr
Yes.

:) UMR, Could you tell me of your experience? Did they replace your box or was it just repaired. Is it a smooth process or do I need to complain my ass off for them to do something. I just want to have some ammunition when the service tech guy comes over on Friday.

Thanks

Originally posted by Drake
Thanks, I called Sony this morn and told them the bulb light was on and they are sending out a lamp to me. They said the lamp will be here tomorrow or the next day so I can handle that. Thanks for the heads up. Interesting... what if I were to call Sony right now and tell them the bulb was dead (even though it's not). Could I then have one on-hand for when it does go bad?

-jim

Is it possible to skip the coax input? I know how to skip the other inputs, but I didn't see the option to skip the coax input.

I don't have anything hooked up to it and it's annoying to go past all that snow!

Go to the setup menu and disable the inputs you are not using. Set to skip. Maybe you need to do this one on the channel menu.

Originally posted by JimF_NJ
Interesting... what if I were to call Sony right now and tell them the bulb was dead (even though it's not). Could I then have one on-hand for when it does go bad?

That sounds like a good idea. However, I'm thinking they'd want you to send the failed bulb back as proof. Otherwise, all of us would've called Sony for a "replacement." Too bad. Having an extra bulb would eliminate having to wait for the replacement.

Oh wait, if anyone has called Sony for a bulb replacement and received it, did the package contain a note to send the failed bulb back to them?

Anyone?

Originally posted by tcp100 i too have the (oct 03 build) 610-the lamp should be the B version(serial num ends in b)-improved-the fan i cant hear from across the room--never know its there-i sit 9 ft away--bubble wrap the screen and use common sense when moving and oh yes,PILLOWS lol-the ext warranty is your call-the black issues also your call--i for one see no problem-its always wise to use a good surge and power conditioner-i use the monster hts 2000-AND radio shacks 50 buck 4 way signal booster if youre using splitters which everyone is today--you WILL see a huge pic improvement on std stns--good luck
Just picked up my new KF42WE610 today.. and all great so far.. Just a few questions... [In order of importance!] if you all could! I think there are some great experts in here and I'm glad I found this place..


1. The "bulb problem..." My set is an August 2004 build. Serial number 914xxxx. Would this be past the point where the "bulb/buzz/startup" issue was fixed? (In other words, should I be safe?) I really don't want to be having to replace my bulb every 6 months..

What about this "fan issue" I've heard very little about? Is there anything else I should "watch out for" on this set?


2. Extended Warranties.. I didn't buy Circuit City's 4yr warranty for $499.. To me that just sounded like too much (1/5th of the cost of the TV..) However, now I'm considering it, since projection repairs are so expensive. I know you can buy a warranty directly from Sony. Any opinions on this? Does anyone know how much the Sony warranty costs? I'm leaning towards the sony warranty - especially if it's cheaper.. however I've heard rumors that CC's 4yr covers bulbs -- which could pay for itself.


3. Moving the TV!.. I'll be moving in about 6-7 mohths, and one of the reasons I liked this set so much was since it's only 70lbs.. Other than not lying it flat, any other precautions necessary when moving the thing? I'm keeping the original box (however tattered - I can reinforce it a bit) for shipping.. Is that the best way? Someone actually mentioned shipping cases, and to get a "screen protector".. I'm not sure what this is -- is there a "screen protector" for this model?

4. Using a UPS.... Do most folks here have their TVs on a UPS, in case power fails while the unit is on, preventing the bulb cool-down?

5. Black level/grey background.. I know this comes with the territory with LCD RPTVs (or any LCD really).. But is it normal that the absolute-black level (say on a blank input selection) on this TV is rather gray - that is, in a pitch-black room, a blank screen (no input) still emits a fair amount of light? Is there any adjustment to this?


I know this is a lot to ask.. but I am new here, and hope someone could at least answer a couple.. I'd really appreciate it!

Originally posted by MJedi
That sounds like a good idea. However, I'm thinking they'd want you to send the failed bulb back as proof. Otherwise, all of us would've called Sony for a "replacement." Too bad. Having an extra bulb would eliminate having to wait for the replacement.

Oh wait, if anyone has called Sony for a bulb replacement and received it, did the package contain a note to send the failed bulb back to them?

Anyone? sony sent me 2 the last 8 months and never asked for the old lamp to be returned

Originally posted by studranger
sony sent me 2 the last 8 months and never asked for the old lamp to be returned
That's good to know! I'll be calling Sony a few days after I get my GWIII. Shhhh.... ;)


Soon-to-be-owner of a KF50WE610

I noticed a friend's Panasonic had a dust filter on the fan; and that the TV actually prompted him to change the filter every two months.

I looked into my Sony, and noticed that there's no such filter. Actually, looking through the grates, I can pretty much see a lot of the optics and the LCD elements...

Knowing this -- is dust a problem with these sets? Could dust, over time, mess up the optics, cause overheating, and stuff like that? Is there a sense to getting things cleaned over time?

Thanks for any info!

Originally posted by tcp100
...I looked into my Sony, and noticed that there's no such filter. Actually, looking through the grates, I can pretty much see a lot of the optics and the LCD elements...
...

I don't believe this is correct. Sony takes great care in sealing the optics. It is one of the things they do a good job with. The speakers filter the air that circulates through the optical block. They also use a heat sink to conduct heat away from the light engine.

I have an early build/ Sept 2003 purchase 50WE610.

Back in December, I experienced the problem of the standby light blinking green, the set not coming on, and then finally, the Power/Standby light blinking red five times.

It seems as if what I am experiencing is similar to what Slordak describes except that I don't get the lamp light on. My lamp light is not on and has never been on.

He said, "My personal experience with lamp failures has been that the set blinks the power light over and over again while it's trying to ignite the bulb. This happens for quite some time (say 30 seconds), and during this time the set sometimes makes a sad sort of electrical whine. Eventually, it gives up in defeat, and *this* is when the lamp light lights up."

I called and got it serviced and confirmed that my seriel number was part of the technical service bulletin issued last December. Servicer confirmed that they replaced the bulb at that time. But who knows for certain.

Set worked fine until the last few months when, increasingly, the same problem has repeated itself until now it will generally not turn on.

Just got off the phone with Sony service and scheduling service. They said that they discovered lamp problems in February (before my set was last repaired).

They said that if the repair people got to the house and decided it was a lamp issue and if the repair people didn't have a lamp, Sony could send me a lamp overnight.

1. I am confused - do I have a lamp issue? another issue? lamp + other issue?

2. Sony phone support said 4 to 8 blinks means that they need to call service but didn't have a manual handy saying what 5 meant. Does anyone know?

3. Any thoughts/suggestions?

It has been a while since I monitored this board daily and I have read through many posts here but may have overlooked something.

THANKS!!!

Would someone clear up a question re: a KF-50WE610 built in Aug/04.

Exactly what happens as far as the red/green lights on the TV when a bulb fails?Does the "power/standby" light turn green on powerup and then the "lamp" light turn on red and start to blink?Do they both stay on or does the TV shut down?



Many thanks to all who post the great wealth of info here!

When I use my Tivo controller and press TV power (to shut the tv off) the red light comes on and stays on.... Is that stand-by mode or something? When I use the supplied Sony remote.... all the lights go out. Please let me know!

Originally posted by davidos
When I use my Tivo controller and press TV power (to shut the tv off) the red light comes on and stays on.... Is that stand-by mode or something? When I use the supplied Sony remote.... all the lights go out. Please let me know!
When you turn the set "off", the main "Power" LED should change colors from green to red. This is actually a standby mode, as has been noted previously. Since the fan needs to continue to run for several minutes after the set has turned off in order to ensure maximum bulb life, you definitely *want* the set to go to standby, rather than completely killing the power.

This behavior is the same regardless of whether you turn the power off with one brand of remote, with a different remote, or by pressing the big silver button on the front of the TV. If you are seeing the light go completely off, this implies that you are killing power to the set completely (e.g. do you have the TV plugged into a cable box for power, and you're killing power to the TV by turning off the cable box?). You do *not* want to turn the set off in this fashion.

Originally posted by studranger
sony sent me 2 the last 8 months and never asked for the old lamp to be returned

It seems like there are several blink patterns. If the fastest way to get a bulb is to say the light is blinking, is there a number of blinks that we need to report or is just blinking good enough?

Originally posted by alanpgh
Go to the setup menu and disable the inputs you are not using. Set to skip. Maybe you need to do this one on the channel menu. It seems to me that I wasn't able to disable that input in the setup menu. But then again, I also use it for PiP.

-jim

When the lamp goes bad, the Green light continues to blink for about forty or fifty blinks. Then it goes out and the lamp light blinks non-stop. If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in it starts all over again.
The lamp blinking 5 times is a "Lamp driver error" Lamp driver is faulty
according to the service manual.

Thanks very much, Jim. Service center just said that they replaced lamp before and need to replace it again. I do not know whether they replaced the lamp driver but will investigate. Thank you!

I am having a problem getting my DVI connection to work between my Sony Grand Wega KF-50WE610 LCD display and my recently acquired Samsung SIR-TS360 HD sat STB. I purchased a Belkin DVI-D cable and hooked it up only to get absolutely no picture at all.

The Samsung TS360 owners manual says something about making sure your TV's DVI input has HDCP compatibility and I believe the KF-50WE610 does provide this.

So anyone having DVI display problems with the KF-50WE610 and/or the TS360?

Thanks for the help!

well mr foo-assuming you have it connected and are using video 7 you should be ok-check and make sure you are on the remote on video 7--maybe you changed the name-check that-i have the 42 incg gw but cable--on the new 34 inch tube 16x9 hdtv sony i bought last week going dvi when i first turn on the tv i get a box from cable that says im not using the hdcp and to use the component connection instead and then it disappears--what the hell does hdcp mean?

Originally posted by studranger
what the hell does hdcp mean? HDCP (http://www.projectorpeople.com/tutorials/HDCP_DVI.asp)

What is HDCP?

DVI delivers exceptionally high quality video. In fact, the quality is nearly as good the original or master content. This previously unattainable quality has raised concern from Hollywood executives who fear video could be mass produced and illegally distributed, much like what has happened within the music industry. In an effort to protect this high definition home video content from being copied and illegally distributed, Hollywood studios employed tech companies Intel and Silicon Image to develop a method of security encryption. The standard they created is called High bandwidth Digital Content Protection or HDCP.

HDCP works by adding circuitry within the DVI connection on both transmitter (DVD player, cable box, etc.) and the receiver (projector, LCD TV, etc.) that encrypts video content. Software such as DVDs will not be affected as was the case with tapes for your VCR. Instead, the source players and the display device will be responsible for the encryption.

Had my set for almost a week now.. and the one thing that I'm not sure about is the black level.

Everyone else is saying this set has better black levels than even some plasmas (I'm talking about my 42WE610); however I don't see it. All my blacks look pretty grey -- even when no inputs are connected, the "zero" black level isn't that great in my eyes.

Is there anything I could possibly do about this? would the UMR tweaks help?

Considering the 42" set coming up soon. Stock is running low, so I'd like to do something soon.

For those of you who pricematched with Sears, what store's will they match? I found a pretty good list on Pricewatch
http://www.pricescan.com/electronics/items/item517056.asp
and I'm just curious who you got them to match.

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

Originally posted by tcp100
Had my set for almost a week now.. and the one thing that I'm not sure about is the black level.

Everyone else is saying this set has better black levels than even some plasmas (I'm talking about my 42WE610); however I don't see it. All my blacks look pretty grey -- even when no inputs are connected, the "zero" black level isn't that great in my eyes.

Is there anything I could possibly do about this? would the UMR tweaks help?

I did not buy the 42" GWIII because it is too bright. You would need to install a neutral density filter to drop its black level.

Hmm.. Not good. Is this not the case with the 50" ??

Now I'm second guessing.. still within my 14 day return period..

I have not had a chance to critically view them, but I would consider the new Panasonic DLP or the Mitsubishi DLP sets. They both looked very good to me in the store, but I did not have a chance yet to control the sources to each of them. These may not be a good choice if you are plagued by rainbows.

The larger GWIII's have less of an issue with being too bright, but the new Panny and Mits DLP's appear to me to have fixed much that is wrong with the Samsung DLP's.

Originally posted by umr
I did not buy the 42" GWIII because it is too bright. You would need to install a neutral density filter to drop its black level.

Is the process of installing a neutral density filter documented anywhere on the web? Is this something a fairly technical owner could do on their own, or would it require a tech to install it? I don't have too much of a complaint about the black levels on my 70" inch GWIII, but really dark scenes do show off its inability to produce pure black. If a neutral density filter would help, then might be worth the effort...

Jason Gary

I have not seen documentation for this for the GWIII. There is a thread dealing with this for the Panasonic LCD sets that is similar. I have not been able to access a GWIII to try this myself, but those who have removed the top of the set. This requires at least two people.

Originally posted by amheck
Considering the 42" set coming up soon. Stock is running low, so I'd like to do something soon.

For those of you who pricematched with Sears, what store's will they match? I found a pretty good list on Pricewatch
http://www.pricescan.com/electronics/items/item517056.asp
and I'm just curious who you got them to match.

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

Last November, I got Sears to price match a web dealer on a 50". I took in a printout of the invoice that was generated when I started the ordering process (including shipping), and told them that if they could match the bottom line price, then I would buy right then. In fact, I came out a little ahead. Their price, including tax and delivery, was the same as the web site, plus they gave me a coupon for an $80 rebate on a DVD player (that I needed), and a $5 coupon on any purchase in the store.

George

Originally posted by umr
I have not seen documentation for this for the GWIII. There is a thread dealing with this for the Panasonic LCD sets that is similar. I have not been able to access a GWIII to try this myself, but those who have removed the top of the set. This requires at least two people.

Found the Panasonic link
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=406634&highlight=neutral+density
I don't think I want to be the GWIII guinea pig. Not sure if all GW III models would be the same internally as my 70", but after watching the service tech replace my defective optical block, getting to the lens system looks a lot more involved than the Panasonic. Not really willing to risk my warranty at this point either! Would love to see some other more adventurous owner give it a try.

amheck/aaron:

My Sears did a Pricematch with Abesofmaine on the web because Abe's has a retail store that is shown on the web site. They matched Abe's price including shipping according to their price matching policy.

Good Luck!
Alan

P.S. - I love my 50" GWIII. Great HD picture, very good SD (better than many other sets), and very wide horizontal viewing angle. A great HDTV!

I was watching Panic Room on TNT HD this weekend and comparing it to the Superbit edition I have on DVD. The TNT version had much better resolution and so off I went trying to see if I could improve the DVD image. I could get the DVD image to look closer to the HD version, but the block noise (DVD compression) was much more noticable with the new settings. I had the DVD player (Toshiba 5109) hooked up using the interlace component outputs, so I decided to try using the progressive component outputs (you can't switch my player from progressive to interlace using the menu). Much to my surprise, the block noise was greatly reduced using the progressive outputs. Definitely a better picture for me using progressive with my player.

I have yet to do the UMR tweaks, but had a quesion concerning them. If I change my TV's settings according to the UMR tweaks and increase the sets resolution, will the visibility of the block noise increase as well? Am I confusing sharpness with resoultion?

Thanks for help,
Jason Gary
KDF 70XBR950 and Toshiba 5109 DVD player

Jason

I use to have a 5109 (ex girlfriend has it now) and I recall something in one of the menu's about progressive and interlaced. You still have to use different component out terminals too.

With that player, I got a better overall picture going component out interlaced as the Sony has a good deinterlacer and block noise adjustments.

You might want to try it again and see if you get the same results.

Log your settings from factory. Then you may go back & change back if you wish. Don't forget to hit reset on your remote before & after tweaks...you can add anything in your user menu you wish like the black noise setting, & cinema black is good if you watch in low light room. This is in your extended X.B.R. user menu settings......If you have a newer build date let us know of any changes they made from factory.

Originally posted by JimP
Jason

I use to have a 5109 (ex girlfriend has it now) and I recall something in one of the menu's about progressive and interlaced. You still have to use different component out terminals too.

With that player, I got a better overall picture going component out interlaced as the Sony has a good deinterlacer and block noise adjustments.

You might want to try it again and see if you get the same results.

I'll look through the menu again and see if I can the progressive/interlaced setting.

When you say you had a better picture with interlace, what about it was better? Did it have better resolution, color, or less block noise? For me, after making adjustments, the interlace and progressive looked close to the same other than the issue of block noise.

I'll definitely be doing some more tweaking/testing. Time to get into the service menu.

Thanks,
Jason

I have a couple of questions that I'm not sure if it is my GWIII or my Comcast HD cable source. On certain digital stations (like DIY Network) there is a lot of blockiness around graphics and lettering on the screen, especially when the background is a light color solid. I'm thinking it might be related to the digital compression method used by the broadcaster. Also I've noticed lip sync problems especially on live broadcasts like football games. Movies and other prerecorded material on HD stations seems to be ok. I also noticed the lip sync problem during the live broadcasts of the political conventions when they were on the floor interviewing people. If this is a broadcast problem, why don't you notice it in SD?

quote from holabr

"I also noticed the lip sync problem during the live broadcasts of the political conventions when they were on the floor interviewing people. "

That's typical with politicians. ;-) hehehehe

Lipsynch is a known problem in live broadcast. Its not the set.

Hello,

I saw a thread here several months ago where GWIII owners were posting the exact picture settings they were using. I have lost the link and cannot find the thread now. Does anyone know what I am talking about and do you have a link to the thread? Users were basically listing things like "I started sharness at zero (all the way to the left) and increased it 72 clicks. I did the same thing with picture and increased it 56 clicks. etc).

I had mine set based on one of the users posted settings and my values got reset to factory the other day.

Thanks in advance.

See this thread page 4, post#61 for settings

That is the one. Thanks a ton and a half. Hopefully I can get everything set back before football this weekend.

Thanks again.

your welcome

Today, after turning on my 50WE610 GWIII, the set was dead except for the power/standby light periodically flashing red 5 times. I turned the set off and on a few times and got the same thing. Then I unplugged it for a few hours. It then turned on normally and worked. Anyone know what the five red flashes mean?

Originally posted by xmotoman
Today, after turning on my 50WE610 GWIII, the set was dead except for the power/standby light periodically flashing red 5 times. I turned the set off and on a few times and got the same thing. Then I unplugged it for a few hours. It then turned on normally and worked. Anyone know what the five red flashes mean? you need a new lamp--contact sony

Hi All-

Been dealing with an issue that's been annoying me for a while but have been stubbornly trying to find things out on my own. Time to ask the real experts here:

I have the 50" KF50WE610 and the Samsung DVD player with the DVI out running into Video 7 on the TV. I have the DVD player set to "Widescreen" and 1080i. When I watch anamorphic widescreen DVDs (like the Star Wars set I just got this week), I still get black bars at the top and bottom of the screen. Strangely enough, the bars aren't there when the menus are displayed, only when movies are playing.

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I feel like the whole reason I bought a 16X9 TV was to get rid of those blasted bars? Any advice as to what I need to change in settings on the TV or the DVD player would be great.

Regards,

Jason in MN

Jason,

Not all widescreen movies "fit" exactly into a widescreen tv. There are several ratios that directors use. The star wars happen to be 2.35:1 which causes you to see the bars at the top and bottom. 1.85:1 widescreen movies fit nicely into the 16:9 image.

Hope this helps,

Ken

This complaint has been voiced a million times.

If the movie is filmed in 2:35 aspect ratio, then you'll have narrow black bars even on a 16X9 (widescreen) TV, the aspect ratio of which is 1:78. A 1:85 aspect ratio movie will fill the entire screen of a 16X9 TV. On a 4:3 TV, the black bars will be very large on a 2:35 movie and will be smaller, but still prominent, on a 1:85 movie.

Most DVD boxes will indicate on the back whether they are 2:35 or 1:85 aspect ratio. If you have a 16X9 TV, I would advise against getting the "full screen" version of a DVD, if available, as it will be panned and scanned to fit a "square" TV and you'll either be stretching it unnaturally or watching it in unnatural form.

(I just noticed after posting that someone else answered the question much more succinctly.)

Wow thanks for the quick response. Looks like I needed a little education. Seems more than a little misleading to me that a "widescreen" version of a film released on DVD in the last year wouldn't automatically work correctly with a 16X9 TV. Not much I can do 'bout that though.

Again, thank you for the help - you AVS forum people are the greatest.

-Jason in MN

Jason,

It is working correctly !!! In order for your Star Wars movies to fit perfectly they would have to chop away some of the picture !! I would rather have black bars than some of the picture missing !!! Whats so horrible about black bars anyway ?

-Ken

Jason,

Here is required reading when it comes to aspect ratios:

http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/page2.html

Once you read this you will understand!

Cheers,

Ken

Originally posted by skinnyguy5
Seems more than a little misleading to me that a "widescreen" version of a film released on DVD in the last year wouldn't automatically work correctly with a 16X9 TV.
All the other points made on the subject notwithstanding, a 1:85 "widescreen" film WILL automatically fill your TV screen; just not not the extra wide 2:35 movies. Next time you're in a multiplex, peek inside some of the different theatres and you'll notice two different size screens.

Originally posted by studranger
you need a new lamp--contact sony

Studranger, why do you think the lamp is bad? When the set came back on, it worked perfectly, so the lamp is not burnt out. Do you think it is intermittent contacts? Would bad contacts cause the 5 red flashes? Do the lamps sometimes not work and then start working? Sony tells me that the red flashes mean that the set needs servicing. The set is still in warranty, and service has been arranged. A few months ago Sony sent me a new lamp even though the original lamp still worked. I have not put it in yet and hestitate to do that now because the problem appears to be something other than the lamp.

Hey Gang,

Just returned from circuit city with the 42" GWIII. I originally bought the 50" but it wouldn't fit upright in the back of the 4Runner.

Anyway, I had a question for you guys. What mode do you usually watch analog SD programming? That will probably be the bulk of what we watch on this TV, unless it's being shown in HDTV, in which case I'll obviously tune into that via BrightHouse cable. I was watching Leno just now on FULL and it seemed to look a little stretched. Wide Zoom looked a little cleaner to me, i.e. I didn't notice the stretch as much.

Also, ealier, we were watching an NBC program called Medical Investigation which had the black bars on the top and bottom like a 2.35:1 DVD would look. Do you also leave this in FULL mode to get it as NBC intended, or do you use one of the other picture modes to fill up the screen?

Heading to BrightHouse in the am to exchange our cable box for a HD one. I'm excited to see HD on this set.

Also, what have been your experiences with Avia (or a similar DVD) and this set? Not that I'm complaining, just curious if you guys have found improvements when using this type of tweek. I'm off to read umr's tweek thread now.

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

New guy here...I got my KF50WE610 about 3 weeks ago. It's been great until now. When I turn it on I get the 4 green led blinks but no picture or sound. Shortly after it goes through a series of 5 red blinks and turns off completely, no leds lite. The lamp light never comes on. The manual says it needs service. Has anyone experienced this or know whats going on. Thanks in advance.

Goumpa,

Your bulb is bad. Call Sony and they will mail you a new bulb.

Mike

All the other points made on the subject notwithstanding, a 1:85 "widescreen" film WILL automatically fill your TV screen; just not not the extra wide 2:35 movies.

Not to get picky, but this is not technically true. 16x9 screens are 1.78 format. HD signals are 1.78 OAR and therefore will automatically fill the screen. 1.85 and formats like 2.35 are wider than 16x9 and therefore must be squeezed on a 16x9 screen. There may or may not be black bars on a 16x9 screen showing 1.85 OAR widescreen DVD. There will be black bars on a 2.35 OAR movie.
OAR means original aspect ratio, BTW.
Also see this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900

I realize that the 1:85 aspect ratio of some movies is a little wider than a 16X9 TV's aspect ratio of 1:78. However, I've seen 1:85 movies on many, many widescreen TVs and have never seen even the most thin letterboxing (black bars.) Given that there's such a slight difference in the two ARs and that virtually all TVs will produce a very small degree of overscan, it's extremely rare to say any bars on a 1:85 movie. That's also the case when the film is marked "anamorphic" widescreen.

My KF50WE610 arrived yesterday. I'm thoroughly impressed. Picture quality is amazing. Thanks everyone for the tuning tweaks as well!

First question: I notice an area about the size a hand toward the center of the screen that looks like a haze or a 'fixed glare'. I've moved the TV to make sure it wasn't glare. Used the included cleaning cloth to make sure it wasn't dirt. Any ideas? I thought I saw this in the thread before, but cannot find any references now.

Also, what is an acceptable cleaning solution? Will simple Windex suffice?

Last question: What the opinion on HD carriers? Is DirecTv better than Time-Warner/InSight?

I'm mostly concerned with the haze spot on the screen. Any information would be greatly appreciated!!

Lastly -- got this at CC. All aspects the buy, including their price match, use of Sony's same-as-cash plan and their delivery were great. I've never dealt with them before but definitely will again.

I don't believe you're suppose to use windex on these screens.

However, if you've already done this, tell us if the picture is any sharper. Most non glare coatings also diffuse the picture slightly and this might be a way to sharpen the picture(providing you don't have a glare problem).

Seems like I read somewhere in this thread that using a diluted mild soap and soft cloth would work without harming the coating.

A word about cleaning the screen - Windex contains ammonia - not good. There are a number of cleaners made especially for these screens. The only one I can remember at the moment is Monster: http://www.monstercable.com/home_av/video_cables/accessories.asp You can probably find others as well, but the old soap and water trick works at last resort.

Dave

I believe the manual says mild soap only. That glare is on all of them I think. It's just the reflection you would get diffused. I am using Time Warner as they do not charge extra (above their digital tier) for a high def box. Since there isn't as much HD on as we would all like, the best SD signal you can get is what I would go for. The main HBO and Showtime channels I pay for are HD. I have TW's pioneer 3510 box with the DVI out active. They will give you component cables, I bought a DVI from Pacific cables for under $20. They had it to me before TW could show up.

Here is a suggestion: Split the incoming cable so that you have one running directly to the TV's tuner. For SD that isn't above channel 100 your picture will be clearer. This also allows you to use the TV's picture in picture function.

Thanks folks. I haven't used Windex (thankfully) and have since found the instructions on the cleaner.

The 'glare' is actually a discoloration that appears to be on the inside of the screen. I've since found mentions on this board and others. I'll check with service.

Thanks also for the tips on TW!

I've noticed that slight haze in the middle of the screen, too, but only when the TV is off. It doesn't seem to have any effect on picture quality.

Folks, heres a good place to look for good Sony stuff.....(including aspect ratios) GWIII SM tweaks to eliminate image loss.....http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show thread.php?threadid=323602&referrerid=7446301 Thanks......

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=323602&referrerid=7446301

I've been away from this thread for a few months since I purchased my GWIII 50WE610, mainly because I haven't had any trouble with it. After searching and reading for about 2 hours, I'm a bit confused as to the status of the bulb problem (which I just fell victim to Sunday). Last I heard (before buying) the problem was with the circuitry surrounding the bulb, not the bulbs themselves. But current posts don't even mention this anymore. Are we back to just replacing bulbs and keeping our fingers crossed? What is causing the premature bulb failure? Am I just doomed to a 3 month bulb replacement schedule? Any info, however brief would be appreciated.

My unit was mfg. in July 2004. Have not had any problems with my 50" GWIII. But, I have a 5 year service policy from Sears just in case. I really like the Sony GWIII.

I suffered from a bad bulb Sunday. I called Sony and they told me that the bulb should last 2 to 3 yrs.
The Sony rep is FedExing me one asap!. I just am not thrilled that this bulb will cost me $200 after warranty. Does anyone know if the Best Buy extended plan cover this bulb issue

hickory: I was told by BB that their warranty does cover the bulb and in home service.

More lamp confusion. My set failed, then worked, then failed, then worked. Power/standby blinks red 5 times when failed. Sony said this means the set needs servicing, so I had the local shop send someone out. The service tech looked in the SM and concluded the lamp driver is bad. He will return to replace the driver, and maybe also the lamp if Sony says to do it. He explained that the lamp problem is contaminated mercury that causes a short. The problem can come and go, depending on where the contamination settles. In fact, he says that removing the lamp and shaking it will sometimes restore operation, at least temporarily. Since my problem comes and goes, it sounds more like a bad lamp, so I don't know why he plans on replacing the driver and maybe not replacing the lamp. The set when working is awesome so I don't want needless servicing. Comments please.

xmotoman

I would think that a bad lamp stays bad. It sounds like its something else.
Have you tried removing the bulb and reinstalling it?

One of the things that you shouldn't do with these sets is to turn it off and on right away. Its much better to turn it on and let it play for several hours than to turn it off and on several times.

When you do turn it off, leave it off for a while. Maybe 30 minutes(my guess).

Well folks, my 42" worked fine for 10 months before the lamp died. Three weeks later the lamp died again. This time a service person was sent out to change my lamp board and the lamp. I actually have the BB extended warranty, but called Sony directly as their warranty was still in effect. I'm hoping, should two more repairs be neccesary the Sony one will count.

Are most of you using UPS's with these GWIII's?

Yup.

I am not using a UPS, but maybe I should. I do have a five year extended warranty from Sears that should cover any problems.

It takes very little power to run. Even the small $30 APC UPS will give you a few minutes of run time, including a Tivo and XBox in it.

Hi all!

Having purchased a 60WE610 last week, I have a couple of questions that I feel are probably related to having my first 16:9 ratio television. Here goes:

1) When playing 16:9 or 2.35:1 ratio movies on this screen, I have noticed that the television automatically switches to "Wide" mode instead of "Normal." My dvd player is set to 16:9 and it is hooked up with component cables. Is this normal for the tv to make the switch? I would have thought that the "Wide" mode stretched things out a bit, but maybe the signal is compressed to begin with, so it needs to stretch it out to balance the 16:9 picture.

2) None of my X-box games appear to play in Widescreen ratio properly, even though I am using Monster component cables, switched the X-box dashboard to widescreen, and answered "yes" to 480/720/1080. I tried out Burnout 3, Project Gotham Racing 2, and Soul Calibur 2(all games noted as playable in widescreen I believe), and they all switch to a 4:3 ratio in the middle of my screen when the tv is in "Normal" screen settings.
The strange thing here is that when the X-box is booted up at the dashboard, the "Normal" setting displays the true 16:9 ratio display, but once a game is loaded up, it switches to being 4:3 in the middle of the screen. Am I supposed to switch this to "Full" once the game begins? It appears to indeed stretch the image when in Full.


I bought this tv for 75% gaming, 20% movies, and 5% casual tv watching. Not being able to play the games I thought would play in widescreen has been a big disappointment, and I am still trying to figure out if I am watching my movies in the correct "Normal" or "Full" settings. Great tv if only I could better understand how to watch it.

Thank you,
Rich

And I guess a few minutes is all you need for the bulb to cool down properly? $30 isn't too bad. I was thinking you'd have to spend well over $100 to get something decent. Thanks for the tip.

Aaron

Originally posted by Silverknife
1) When playing 16:9 or 2.35:1 ratio movies on this screen, I have noticed that the television automatically switches to "Wide" mode instead of "Normal." My dvd player is set to 16:9 and it is hooked up with component cables. Is this normal for the tv to make the switch? I would have thought that the "Wide" mode stretched things out a bit, but maybe the signal is compressed to begin with, so it needs to stretch it out to balance the 16:9 picture.

2) None of my X-box games appear to play in Widescreen ratio properly, even though I am using Monster component cables, switched the X-box dashboard to widescreen, and answered "yes" to 480/720/1080. I tried out Burnout 3, Project Gotham Racing 2, and Soul Calibur 2(all games noted as playable in widescreen I believe), and they all switch to a 4:3 ratio in the middle of my screen when the tv is in "Normal" screen settings.
The strange thing here is that when the X-box is booted up at the dashboard, the "Normal" setting displays the true 16:9 ratio display, but once a game is loaded up, it switches to being 4:3 in the middle of the screen. Am I supposed to switch this to "Full" once the game begins? It appears to indeed stretch the image when in Full.

Neither of these questions are specific to this TV set; they're instead related to general understanding of anamorphic widescreen. With regards to #1 above, you should be watching any and all anamorphic widescreen movies in "Full" mode. The "Normal" mode is for 4x3 content; you shouldn't be using this mode when the DVD player knows that you have a 16x9 TV and hence is giving you anamorphic video.

With regards to #2 above, again, if you playing 16x9 games (such as the three you listed), you should be using "Full" mode. If you are watching Project Gotham Racing 2 or Burnout 3 in "Normal" mode with the X-Box set to "Widescreen" in the control panel, you are going to have an excessively skinny (everything looks stretched vertically), non-widescreen image. You must use "Full" mode to get the content back to the correct aspect ratio. Soul Calibur 2 runs in 720p, so the TV is going to be in "Full" mode regardless of what you do (i.e. you can't change it), but this game uses a 4x3 window within a 16x9 frame, so it's always going to be 4x3 (sorry).

Silverknife,

Worry not, you will play your games in widescreen on that tv. I do it everyday. :)

Just make sure that everything is set up correctly. Here is what you need to do.

1) Make sure you have component cables setup.
2) Make sure you Xbox system setting are set to "widescreen" and not "letterbox" or something like that.
3) Set your tv to "full" and your off to the races!


Even if you think it's stretched you are probably wrong. Burnout 3 is definitely a widescreen game. The same goes for Project Gotham 2. Soul Calibur however is only 4:3 when you allow for 720p though. In other words if you want to play Soul Calibur in true widescreen you have to set your Xbox up so it can't display a 720p game. Then Soul Calibur will be in widescreen 480p. It kind of sucks for that one game if you want to play in widescreen you have to go into your Xbox menu each time. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the great replys Slordak and Tigerriot! I thought I knew enough about widescreen before buying this set, but once I started playing around with the set, I still had some hands on questions. Thanks for making my tv that much more enjoyable! :)

Note that some XBox games seems to do 480p incorrectly (I just got Fable, and it messes this up). Just set your XBox to do 480i, 720p, and 1080i.