JimP,

I think you are right. As far as picture detail goes....720P from the Hd-931 does not look much better (if at all) than the 480i or P.

The blacks look worse at 720P because it goes through the DVI output ... (noted in the earlier message).

George

jimp the native rez is 788p....i know weird huh....

Speedstream

So what does it do with a 788p signal??? Clip everything outside of 720 or rescale it??

Any engineers in the forum that feel the urge to speak up, please don't be bashful.

Anyone with experience with a true 720 native set, are DVI DVD players with 720p output really any better? or is this only psychological?

i honestly have no idea. can anyone shed some light on that?

Originally posted by qooldude
I actually sold my Samsung DVD-HD931 after using for 2 weeks on my 50" GW III. Since there was only one DVI cable and I didn't want to keep switching DVI cables with my STB, I decided the my component DVD player was good enough. I may reconsider if Sony ever released a DVD player with DVI out.

I'm using the DAV-FC9 Dream System and it works well, but I'm going to upgrade to either the DVP-NC555ES or the RDR-GX7 DVD recorder.


No complaints with my GW III by the way, since this is a GW III thread...

Why not get a switcher (Gefen) and enjoy both worlds. Use DVI whenever possible.

think anyone can fill in the blanks on this thread?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=3194403#post3194403

Here's a relatively easy question that's "not quite" explained in the owners manual.
When playing a DVD do you have to select "cinemotion" to get the 3:2 pulldown? OR does the tv always sense when a movie is being played and then automatically provide the 3:2 effect?

Thanks, Rick

Cinemotion basically converts interlaced signals to progressive signals. If you're running a signal from a progressive scan device, Cinemotion can't even be turned on - it's a ghosted option in the user menu.

if you have an interlaced-only DVD player, then yes, turn Cinemotion on. it will detect the interlaced signal and do the processing to make it progressive.

3:2 pulldown refers to the conversion of a signal from 30 fps to 24 fps. my understanding is that the TV does this automatically.


here's a link to a sony glossary:

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_BrowseCatalog-Start;sid=9cmGK-SjwTmGBKSnr1KMIKutKcG6aleALYs=?CategoryName=pr_p_Television_ Glossary_tv

Originally posted by gusK

For the record:
Manufactured: December 2003 LA2
S/N: 9111157.


Are you sure about this Serial Number and manufacture date? I called Sony yesterday and got bumped up two levels to a techical support person who finally acknowledged the lamp problems. She also said she didn't think any units had been produced during December which is when they were getting in most of the problems reported here.
To avoid the possibility of lamp-related problems, she advised me to wait and get a unit with a 2004 build date and a serial number higher than 9106059. If anyone has a unit with a number higher than this one, and is still having lamp-related problems, please post.

hmmm, no lamp problems, no buzz problems, no issues at all anyone has posted here. except for one stuck pixel...and that is to be expected with an lcd screen. CC says that if its 8 or more pixels they will replace the screen. well at least the manager at the one here says that...
my build date is november 2003 and that's the same month i bought it....cc and bb here say they've been having a hard time keeping them in stock...

Originally posted by Speedstream
....cc and bb here say they've been having a hard time keeping them in stock...

Yea, that's because they keep having to replace the defective ones. :rolleyes:

hmmmm....good point. i did return my first one cuz of excessive stuck pixels..

Concerning December production dates, my 50" shows December and has had no problems to this point. My serial # is 9106939 (LA2).

Originally posted by roblake
Can you please give an estimate of the prices. Like list price on the 60" XBR is Five Four, so how much less was the price at the Outlet?

I don't remember the XRB for sure but I remember that the 50" was $24xx cause it was $400 less than I paid at Sears in October. I think the refurbished 60" XRB was 39xx.

I know this is an old dead subject BUT my 42" we610 came in about a week ago. So far I've watched about 10 dvd's on it. I have read every note on black borders on the top and bottom but I have an old sony theater in a box I'm using right now it is set to 16:9 but I still I have 2" bars top and bottom when watching 1.85:1 movies, while watching 1.78:1 it completely fills the screen. I just can't see there being that much of a difference. 2.35:1 is even worse I haven't actually measured the bars but I'm losing alot of screen. I just don't know if I'm not understanding the black bar postings correctly but they seem to read as there should barely be any bars while watching 1.85:1 movies.

Thanks

when i had my jvc hooked up i usually swapped back and forth between settings so that the tv fills the entire screen with it being set to full....but the bravo d1 now plays everything full screen...set to 1080i o'course.....
ryan...i would seriously save some more cash to grab a d-1...it's well worth it should you get a good player, well worth it.

Originally posted by ryank
I know this is an old dead subject BUT my 42" we610 came in about a week ago. So far I've watched about 10 dvd's on it. I have read every note on black borders on the top and bottom but I have an old sony theater in a box I'm using right now it is set to 16:9 but I still I have 2" bars top and bottom when watching 1.85:1 movies, while watching 1.78:1 it completely fills the screen. I just can't see there being that much of a difference. 2.35:1 is even worse I haven't actually measured the bars but I'm losing alot of screen. I just don't know if I'm not understanding the black bar postings correctly but they seem to read as there should barely be any bars while watching 1.85:1 movies.

Thanks

This is working as intended. Your tv screen is like a movie screen at the local theater. The aspect ratio of the film is the determining factor as to how much of the vertical screen is used. The tv processing uses the whole horizontal plane, the bars on top and bottom are areas not used by the film.

Two ways around this, if it bothers you. One is to zoom the picture. This will fill the screen entirely, or minimize any bars. The other way is to look for pan and scan movies. These, used with a stretch mode - like Wide Zoom - fill the screen entirely, while the DVD manufacturer has picked the most important part of the picture to display for you.

Both these methods involve losing some of the picture, but deal with the problem of the picture size not matching the size of the screen. HD television signals are formatted to the 16:9 standard of your screen, so you won't experience this with true HD programming.

Originally posted by ryank
I know this is an old dead subject BUT my 42" we610 came in about a week ago. So far I've watched about 10 dvd's on it. I have read every note on black borders on the top and bottom but I have an old sony theater in a box I'm using right now it is set to 16:9 but I still I have 2" bars top and bottom when watching 1.85:1 movies, while watching 1.78:1 it completely fills the screen. I just can't see there being that much of a difference. 2.35:1 is even worse I haven't actually measured the bars but I'm losing alot of screen. I just don't know if I'm not understanding the black bar postings correctly but they seem to read as there should barely be any bars while watching 1.85:1 movies.

Thanks First, look thru the sticky thread on aspect ratios. Second, the stretch should not work with a progressive signal from a DVD player. Third, the stretch mode increases "pixel" size as in digital versus optical zoom in a digital camera. BTW, one of things I like best about the GWIII is that I don't have to zoom an image to avoid burn-in. After owning the set almost 3 months, I am beginning to think that 42" vs. 27" was not that big a change. Maybe I should have gotten a 50 incher :eek:
YMMV

Widescreen TVs do NOT get rid of black bars (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900)

Originally posted by Speedstream
when i had my jvc hooked up i usually swapped back and forth between settings so that the tv fills the entire screen with it being set to full....but the bravo d1 now plays everything full screen...set to 1080i o'course.....
ryan...i would seriously save some more cash to grab a d-1...it's well worth it should you get a good player, well worth it.

So you're saying when you had a jvc dvd player it didn't fill the screen while watching 1.85:1 and a better player minimized the black bars? I'm more than willing to go buy a new dvd player if it will make a difference.

Also do you use the dvi output or component with the d-1. I bought a DVI Cable for my cable box but apparently it's not active so I have that $130 cable just sitting in my cabinet anyway.

Thanks for the help

Originally posted by MrMike6by9
First, look thru the sticky thread on aspect ratios. Second, the stretch should not work with a progressive signal from a DVD player. Third, the stretch mode increases "pixel" size as in digital versus optical zoom in a digital camera. BTW, one of things I like best about the GWIII is that I don't have to zoom an image to avoid burn-in. After owning the set almost 3 months, I am beginning to think that 42" vs. 27" was not that big a change. Maybe I should have gotten a 50 incher :eek:
YMMV


I did read that and that's where I'm getting the idea from that 1.85:1 shouldn't have 2" bars top and bottom. If I'm misunderstanding this I apologize, I thought it may be a possibility that my DVD player just isn't displaying it properly. And it doesn't have progressive scan. It's an old system I haven't replaced because it's an all in one and I want to take my time and buy the components that are right for me.
Also I see absolutely no difference when I go into the setup and change the display from 4:3 to 16:9 on my dvd player.
Thanks

no more like aydu said. aspect raitios...i kept chaging the aspect ratio on the dvd player the selecting FULL.....cable box....hmmm i have the scientific atlanta hd box...yeah i was pretty excited when i saw the dvi out, was diappointed when i read it was disabled, there is a usb port on the box so i could hook up a keyboard to it, i am sure i can turn on the dvi port. i have just been too lazy to try. as far as the bravo goes, yeah definitely dvi, definitely. it's woth the $200 bucks....looks like march they (VINC) will be selling the d-2....might want to hold off for that one...so far the price is gonna be $249

no more like aydu said. aspect raitios...i kept chaging the aspect ratio on the dvd player the selecting FULL.....cable box....hmmm i have the scientific atlanta hd box...yeah i was pretty excited when i saw the dvi out, was diappointed when i read it was disabled, there is a usb port on the box so i could hook up a keyboard to it, i am sure i can turn on the dvi port. i have just been too lazy to try. as far as the bravo goes, yeah definitely dvi, definitely. it's woth the $200 bucks....looks like march they (VINC) will be selling the d-2....might want to hold off for that one...so far the price is gonna be $249

if you have the latest firmware for your SA box, then the DVi port should be active now. the last flash on my 3250 enabled it.

be sure to disconnect the power from the cable box, then conenct the dvi cable to the cable box and the tv. The box will need to download new info, it will also need to reset in order to properly detect that your set it HDCP compliant.

good luck and enjoy.

check the HD hardware threads for more info

Originally posted by Phantastica
They sell them to Sony employees like me for really cheap! I'm actually happy to see that there are a good amount of returns. That means I'll have no problem buying one once it's fixed up at a mega discount.


What are the risks behind purchasing a refurb, is it worth the money you save to take a chance on a TV that had problems to begin with. I too, have the opportunity to purchase a refurb through Sony at about half the price of a new one at CC. Just a little leery. :confused:

Buy it! You'll have a set that has been inspected TWICE --- once at manufacture, once at refurb.

My dealer (who also happens to be the official HT subcontractor for my new home builder) is offering me the Sony 60WE10 for $3600. If I buy this TV from him before closing, I can roll it into the price of the house (and pay it off at closing) and avoid the 8.25% tax, to boot. The tax comes to $297, a good chunk of change. Question is: can I do better than $3600 elsewhere? From what I've read so far in this thread, looks like some people have been able to do close to $3000. Is that correct? I'm hesitant to buy this TV mailorder due to shipping concerns and hassles of return in case of defects. But if the price is right and the retailer reliable, I'm willing to check it out. How much better than $3600 have people been able to do (mailorder or B&M)?

Thanks for your time,

Yeshwant

cheapest i saw the 60" was about 3400....still that's not bad the median price is 3900...most expensive was from hype audio...4499...

Wish I found this forum 2 months ago. Bought the KF-42WE610 thirty five days ago. Hooked up to Directv and progressive scan DVD and HDTV. Beautiful picture. On the 31st day the green light just blinks and then the red lamp light blinks, way more than 3 times. Called Sony. They read from the manual, no help. Accused me of cutting the power, bulb overheated, don't plug it into a power strip, ect. Called PC Richards, bought the extended warranty. There seems to be a backlog for this bulb. Just got off the phone with their tech. "Don't know when the bulb will be in. No sense in me coming out to fix the set without the bulb". Made sense to me. I was going to ask him what this "fix" is, but his English was so poor that I didn't bother. Glad I didn't get rid of my ten year old 27" Sharp tv. I did notice on the day it died that there was a slight buzzing sound. It wasn't the normal cool down fan. It was a little louder than the normal sound of the fan. A couple of thousand of bucks just doesn't buy much these days, especially quality.

Hopefully a simple question, Is there any difference between the 60we610 and 60xbr950 in terms of picture quality. I know that XBR has the HDTV tuner and the different screen, but how about the PQ?

Speedstream,


Thanks. Guess "Hype" Audio is aptly named in that regard :D

Any other comments on $3600 as a good price for the 60WE10? I need to decide by the end of this week.

Thanks,

Yeshwant

Originally posted by Kestrelnj
Wish I found this forum 2 months ago. Bought the KF-42WE610 thirty five days ago. Hooked up to Directv and progressive scan DVD and HDTV. Beautiful picture. On the 31st day the green light just blinks and then the red lamp light blinks, way more than 3 times. Called Sony. They read from the manual, no help. Accused me of cutting the power, bulb overheated, don't plug it into a power strip, ect. Called PC Richards, bought the extended warranty. There seems to be a backlog for this bulb. Just got off the phone with their tech. "Don't know when the bulb will be in. No sense in me coming out to fix the set without the bulb". Made sense to me. I was going to ask him what this "fix" is, but his English was so poor that I didn't bother. Glad I didn't get rid of my ten year old 27" Sharp tv. I did notice on the day it died that there was a slight buzzing sound. It wasn't the normal cool down fan. It was a little louder than the normal sound of the fan. A couple of thousand of bucks just doesn't buy much these days, especially quality.

See the "GWIII Buzz" thread.

Originally posted by lgroveman
Hopefully a simple question, Is there any difference between the 60we610 and 60xbr950 in terms of picture quality. I know that XBR has the HDTV tuner and the different screen, but how about the PQ?

the xbr is supposed to provide a better picture...eXtended Bit Rate they call it....i suppose having the cash & doing homework i may have bought an xbr....the 42we610 was an impulse buy and i am extremely happy with it so far.

/crosses fingers...hope i don't jinx myself...

Thank You Robert. I'm new to this. I have an old computer, dial up modem, and a new KF-42WE610.

Kestrelnj

I got a similar situation with my service tech., but he said he'd have the lamp sent to me directly (4 to 5 days to get to me). He's scheduled to come over this Saturday (7 am.......yikes!!!!!) to install it and do a "reset". His English was a little "rough" so I just said OK to whatever he said.

Originally posted by Yeshwant M
Speedstream,


Thanks. Guess "Hype" Audio is aptly named in that regard :D

Any other comments on $3600 as a good price for the 60WE10? I need to decide by the end of this week.

Thanks,

Yeshwant race to CC and check out their selling price-you better believe thats what id do-good luck

Originally posted by Yeshwant M
Speedstream,


Thanks. Guess "Hype" Audio is aptly named in that regard :D

Any other comments on $3600 as a good price for the 60WE10? I need to decide by the end of this week.

Thanks,

Yeshwant

Sounds like you have other reasons to purchase from the builder and $3,600 is a reasonable price. First deal I was offered was $3,560 and ended up at another local location for $3,500.

Took delivery a few days ago. One word for this tv ... WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am a new owner of a KF-50WE610. I've signed up for HD services from my local cable company. The HD channels are magnificent on the tv, so far so good, good picture on most of the digital channels, some so-so, regular cable bites which is all what I expected. My HD box is a SA3100, it's rented with my cable package ... I've hooked it up with component video only. So here's my questions and forgive me if they're a tad on the dumb side but I'm confused:

I see in the manual that Advanced Picture settings are unavailable on video inputs 5-7 which are the 2 component inputs and DVI. Is this just a fact of component connections? ie .. I cannot stretch or zoom or anything on any channels. Is this a fact of the component connection or just the way the SA3100 works or Sony or some combination? I get some channels, for instance, the WB and some movie channels, that broadcast in widescreen but non-HD widescreen. Well, for these shows or movies I get a boxed picture in the centre of the giant screen that I cannot stretch or zoom to at least rid myself of the side bars. The only choice I have from signals from the HD terminal is "Full".

Lastly, and this would have more to do with the SA3100 I'll wager ... can I connect the component AND the S-video and just switch inputs to S-video for non-HD broadcasts and that would allow me to do what I'm proposing above. I can't see why I can't double connect the SA3100 via Component and S-Video but I'm wondering if perhaps there's some potential problem I would create by doing so. I can't see what but that's why I'm here LOL.

I just placed my order for the Grand Wega 42" LCD HDTV Rear Projection TV. I should get it sometime next week. I know that people are playing Xbox games without any issues, my question is if I can still use my Xbox to play DVDs on it, or do I need a different type of DVD player?
Thanks,
McG.

I'm dieing to see HD on my 60" but I'm waiting for the HDTivo (I've not keep up with it lately).

Xbox - I can't say much to DVD playing as I have a separate DVD player but my husband and his buddies love HALO on the set so much that at least one of them went and bought a 50" set as well.

Solved my problem atthe SA web site. It's the SA3100 model that won't let you stretch or do anything with the picture. Here in Canada my cable company doesn't have the newer models yet but says they're coming sometime.

Originally posted by Yeshwant M
My dealer (who also happens to be the official HT subcontractor for my new home builder) is offering me the Sony 60WE10 for $3600. If I buy this TV from him before closing, I can roll it into the price of the house (and pay it off at closing) and avoid the 8.25% tax, to boot. The tax comes to $297, a good chunk of change. Question is: can I do better than $3600 elsewhere? From what I've read so far in this thread, looks like some people have been able to do close to $3000. Is that correct? I'm hesitant to buy this TV mailorder due to shipping concerns and hassles of return in case of defects. But if the price is right and the retailer reliable, I'm willing to check it out. How much better than $3600 have people been able to do (mailorder or B&M)?

Thanks for your time,

Yeshwant

Got mine for $2790 at Sears (before tax). My friends just bought the same TV using my receipt for $2800. The catch is that there is a 10 weeks wait before delivery.

You got the 60 inch for less than the 50 inch sale price?

would you mind sending a copy of the receipt my way.

pm for details thanks

Originally posted by wazzup
Got mine for $2790 at Sears (before tax). My friends just bought the same TV using my receipt for $2800. The catch is that there is a 10 weeks wait before delivery.
Really??:eek:
That's less than the best deals I've heard for the KF50WE610. Please enlighten us how to get such a deal.

I am considering the purchase of a GWIII 42” and at the present time SD material is still my primary source. I have not been able to see a SD feed in the stores and was wondering what the diagonal picture size is when viewing SD 4:3 with the black bars on the 42” set?

Thanks

I'll admit I'm a little skeptical about buying a GWIII at this point but I've been offered a 60" for ~$3,100 roughly maybe less w/o firing back at the sales guy.

The picture seemed ok but that was normal SD. I haven't seen a good HD source yet and I haven't seen a decent dvd just yet so I may not even buy one but I'm trying to get over my concern with the "issues" with regars to these units.

Can anyone calm my fears a bit?

I would jump at that in a heart beat, the HD picture on this TV is great!

Phil

Although mine is in the shop right now being repaired for the lamp issue I am not sorry I bought it.

I have a 60" and everyone who has seen it loves it. No Guru's just common everyday people (ok mostly techy types but not A/V experts). Black levels are the only complaint and that was a known issue. I got my 60" for around 3K from CC a few months ago.

All in all I feel it was a good buy and enjoy watching it. Could it be better? Sure but I'm happy with it. I do like the 60 over the 50 for SD content since I don't stretch the picture.

I had 1 bad 50 and 1 bad 60 before my 2nd 60 which has had no problems at all. Both the first 2 were pixel related and the 50 had a bad screen but I think that was due to shipping damage.

If you are "fear" ful about buying the set I'd say don't do it. Buy what you are comfortable with. Remember different people have different viewing tastes and if you wait until you find a perfect set that no one has issues with you'll be waiting a long long long time. ;)

Well I'm in a condundrum. We want a new Big Screen and the wife wants to not have a big box in the living room like a typical big screen. The LCD's and DLP's are acceptable however as are Plasma but those are too small for the $$$.

I'm willing to jump to DLP or LCD but I'm concerned with the issues around them not including black level etc which seems acceptable. As I don't think I'll ever be comfortable buying any new set I think sometime I need to just swallow my fears and go.

As far as getting a bad set, I fear that worse but I think and believe that my dealer will treat me right.

I just hope that the shutting off issues etc except for dead pixals which I can't see any LCD manufacturer fixing are fixed and past us.

We'll see. I still want to see the new DLP from Gateway along with the Sony in a better condition(good dvds and nightime HD since daytime hd here is nonexistent).

Originally posted by s2silber
Really??:eek:
That's less than the best deals I've heard for the KF50WE610. Please enlighten us how to get such a deal.

I would second that. That's an incredible price. Wazzup, have to ask: are you sure we are indeed talking about the 60" and not the 50"?

Thanks,

Yeshwant

Originally posted by Robert_B
I am considering the purchase of a GWIII 42? and at the present time SD material is still my primary source. I have not been able to see a SD feed in the stores and was wondering what the diagonal picture size is when viewing SD 4:3 with the black bars on the 42? set?

Thanks

It comes out to 34" on my Sony KF-42WE610 42" set.

Originally posted by Yeshwant M
I would second that. That's an incredible price. Wazzup, have to ask: are you sure we are indeed talking about the 60" and not the 50"?

Thanks,

Yeshwant
Yashwant, It is entirely possible - The final price of my 60" had come to $145 LESS than the lower ($2790) of the two prices quoted in Wassup's post. This price was Including 3% ST of West NY, from CC

I had them give me a special deal based on the PM of Sears, and then later, applied a 10% coupon to my receipt at a CC in FL. Worked like a charm. :D

You have to put in your efforts - these kind of deals are entirely possible

Where do you get these 10% coupons?

sometimes www.techbargains.com has some good ones...

Im not doubting anyone.

I would just like a copy of the receipt to go buy one at that price.

pretty please with sugar on top.

Originally posted by s2silber
Where do you get these 10% coupons?
I got lucky withthat one - Got it in the mail, when i moved recently, with a bunch of other coupons from the post office.

Sorry Stingray, my receipt wont help anyone as it is over 2 months old now and out of any PM period.

I think these deals are dead for now. Yer lucky if u can find them in stock, and every mgr seems wise to the fact that these are hot sellers. If u can get those deals now, and get one with a recent build date, more power 2 ya. But i've been putting in alot of work to get one of these, and i finally landed one but aprox $150 more than my best price a few weeks ago. That store was out of stock and dont expect any till Feb.

Even with reciept in hand, the second store wouldnt match the first ones price.

The deals will come back when the supply chains are more saturated with them, which could be in the next few months. Its hurry up and wait for the deals or cough it up now and play.
Life's 2 short...

Just found out someone i know works at Sony. Any questions are you curious to get answers to on the GWIII? Ill see if i can get him to spill what he knows.

heh, yeah
HorizFreq 33735
Video Width 1901
HSyncTotal 2201
HSyncActive 0063
VSyncTotal 0563
VSyncActive 0006
HSyncPol 0000


VertFreq 5997
VideoHeight 0518
PreHSync 0068
PostHSync 0169
PreVSync 0001
PostVSync 0038
VSyncPol 0000

ask him if he can fill out these values correctly for the kf-42we610
thanks....

Originally posted by opuscat
I am a new owner of a KF-50WE610. I've signed up for HD services from my local cable company. The HD channels are magnificent on the tv, so far so good, good picture on most of the digital channels, some so-so, regular cable bites which is all what I expected. My HD box is a SA3100, it's rented with my cable package ... I've hooked it up with component video only. So here's my questions and forgive me if they're a tad on the dumb side but I'm confused:

I see in the manual that Advanced Picture settings are unavailable on video inputs 5-7 which are the 2 component inputs and DVI. Is this just a fact of component connections? ie .. I cannot stretch or zoom or anything on any channels. Is this a fact of the component connection or just the way the SA3100 works or Sony or some combination? I get some channels, for instance, the WB and some movie channels, that broadcast in widescreen but non-HD widescreen. Well, for these shows or movies I get a boxed picture in the centre of the giant screen that I cannot stretch or zoom to at least rid myself of the side bars. The only choice I have from signals from the HD terminal is "Full".-OPUS=i have the 42 in sony lcd and had a cheap monster cable unit and like you say, the std pics are lousy-lousy in lousy out-i got the monster hts2000 on ebay new for 105.00-sells in store for 200.00--connected the in cable to the unit and out to the sa cable box-i wasnt prepared for the improvement in pic quality on std chans-the hdtv pic was unaffected lolol but the std chans were id say 80 per cent better--been a monster fan for over 30 yrs--they DO make a difference-those that say they dont ,dont know what they are talking about-monster wouldnt be around so long IF they sold products that did nothing-cant answer all your questions but hope ive helpedPS if the cable box is set to 1080i or 720p the modes will not work--with your box set it at 1080i

Lastly, and this would have more to do with the SA3100 I'll wager ... can I connect the component AND the S-video and just switch inputs to S-video for non-HD broadcasts and that would allow me to do what I'm proposing above. I can't see why I can't double connect the SA3100 via Component and S-Video but I'm wondering if perhaps there's some potential problem I would create by doing so. I can't see what but that's why I'm here LOL.

new GWIII 60 owner here, Another suggestion is to use a ups (battery backup) for your main power supply, it conditions the power nicely, and during a power blackout you can shut the tv off and allow a normal cool down cycle. Also what kind of cable did you use to connect your pc to the dvi?

i choked down a $100 monster dvi cable.

Originally posted by Speedstream
i choked down a $100 monster dvi cable.

Don't be suckered into Monster marketing hype. This $9.99 cable will work equally as well. http://www.bonuscable.com/product_info.php?products_id=1587

cool, i will give it a try. the first one i got was from belkin from www.newegg.com , i get all my computer stuff from them, it would only work on 480, not 720 or 1080....

Ok... it took me nearly all day and several sessions, but I have finally read this entire thread! Good grief! But damn helpfull. Im very glad I found this place.

At this point I have decided that I will shortly be purchasing either the 50 or 60" WE version of this set. What I cant decide is which one. I read all the posts on viewing distance comparisons between the 42s and 50s, but there was little mention of the 60s. I would like to buy the largest version I think I can get away with. My viewing distance is currently 10', but I could up it to 12' if need be. Any thoughts on which set would be better for me?

My primary viewing sources will be digital cable and DVDs with a progressive scan player. And what little my cable company offers in HDTV as well.

Also, I've spent a lot of time reading this, and the other thread about stands for this set. Does anyone have any pictures of the 60" model on a stand? Im trying to decide how important it is to me to keep the dimensions of the set within those of the stand, or just how bad the overhang will look.

thanks..

Nick

Nick,

The rule of thumb for a widescreen HDTV is seating distance is great at 3 times the screen height. I have a 60" GWIII and sit about 11'. It is outstanding. Sony also has a Home Theater Guide you can download off their support web site under documentation, but it esentially tells you the same thing...their figures work out to approximately 3 x screen height.

In my search for DVD players to match up to my 60" GWIII, my budget has gone from $300, 400, 500, then the $1,000 jump, then $1,600, then $2,000. As you can see, it's getting out of control.

I've been reading tons of information about DVD players and have to ask if anyone knows how the scaler, deinterlacer on the GWIII, non XBR, compares to those found in DVD players. It doesn't make a lot of sense to spring for a great progressive scan DVD player, if you would be equally off using your current player on interlaced and having the TV handle the scaling/deinterlacing.

Originally posted by Speedstream
heh, yeah
HorizFreq 33735
Video Width 1901
HSyncTotal 2201
HSyncActive 0063
VSyncTotal 0563
VSyncActive 0006
HSyncPol 0000


VertFreq 5997
VideoHeight 0518
PreHSync 0068
PostHSync 0169
PreVSync 0001
PostVSync 0038
VSyncPol 0000

ask him if he can fill out these values correctly for the kf-42we610
thanks....


Speedscreen,
What you trying to do? Synch a D1(or HTPC) through DVI????:confused:

Originally posted by JimP
In my search for DVD players to match up to my 60" GWIII, my budget has gone from $300, 400, 500, then the $1,000 jump, then $1,600, then $2,000. As you can see, it's getting out of control.

I've been reading tons of information about DVD players and have to ask if anyone knows how the scaler, deinterlacer on the GWIII, non XBR, compares to those found in DVD players. It doesn't make a lot of sense to spring for a great progressive scan DVD player, if you would be equally off using your current player on interlaced and having the TV handle the scaling/deinterlacing.

JimP,

You're going in the WRONG direction! :) Honestly, it's your decision (ultimately) on how much you want to spend. I went (fairly) cheap. I got the Sony 5 disc Progressive scan unit (don't remember the model number) it was under $300. My thinking is that, atleast for now, my focus is on HD material, and the DVD was secondary. Also, figured that, I would rather have the money in the bank for an HD-DVD player - whenever that is.

David

David,

Know what your saying as I've already been down the path of waiting for the new HD models to come out.

Thinking it through, I came up with the objection that its very unlikely that the first generation of these DVD players won't have many bugs that won't be worked out until later models. I may be wrong(hope that I am) but I think its more likely that it'll play out that way.

JimP,

I have both the Panasonic XP-30 and the Samsung HD-931 (Component output) and their picture quality is excellent. They both have the Faroudja chip. The Panasonic is only avail via ebay. I have both and will sell one of them.

George

Does anyone know how important a DVD players video DAC is as it relates to picture quality on a 50"GWIII? I have a Pioneer Elite (DV-C36) DVD player that is a couple of years old and it only has a 10 bit video DAC while alot of newer players use 12 or even 14 bit. Does anyone know if a higher bit rate will result in a noticeable difference on a 50" GWII? Awaiting delivery of the GWIII in mid Feb....

Check the DVD section of the forum for everything you ever wanted to know about the relative merits of various DVD players.

Stupid Question:

What’s the diff between a progressive scan dvd and a non-progressive? Also how can I tell what signal my av equipment is displaying, 480i 480p? From my non-progressive dvd player I can get a 16:9 but it doesn’t show as 16:9 in the GWIII’s menu’s.

New owner of a 50 GWIII

Originally posted by slayer
Nick,

The rule of thumb for a widescreen HDTV is seating distance is great at 3 times the screen height.
Just to be sure....By screen height, do you mean the height of the actual viewing screen or of the TV, itself?

Originally posted by kevindba
Stupid Question:

What?s the diff between a progressive scan DVD and a non-progressive? Also how can I tell what signal my av equipment is displaying, 480i 480p? From my non-progressive DVD player I can get a 16:9 but it doesn?t show as 16:9 in the GWIII?s menu?s.

New owner of a 50 GWIII

This will explain the difference between Progressive and interlace.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_4/dvd-benchmark-part-5-progressive-10-2000.html

I would imagine that some button on you remote would tell you the res of the input you are on, check your manual.

Take a look around the "Popular Threads" Post stuck near the top of the forum. You can also read about having black bard on the DVD due to Hollywood not conforming to the 16:9 format.

Make sure you change the 4:3 to 16:9 in the DVD player menu. I have a player that was one of the first out and it has this option.

Originally posted by s2silber
Just to be sure....By screen height, do you mean the height of the actual viewing screen or of the TV, itself?

I would imagine that is the height of the screen, not the TV.

You can also multiply the viewing distance in feet time 6 to get a display size for a home theater. So a 60" diag screen for 10 feet. I think that this method is for those that sit from the middle to the front at the movie theater by choice.

Just wondering if the extreme cold temperatures such as we are having here in eastern Canada at the present time have any effect on the GWIII components (LCD screens, etc.) during transportation to main warehouse and then delivery to home.

Seems to me that the components of the TV’s would be frozen solid and that can’t be good. Would I be better off buying one come spring when the weather warms up?

For some of the questions about sitting x number of feet away. I have a 50" and I'm about 10-11 feet away and I find that about right if not sometimes slightly too close but it depends on the signal source. I watch quite abit of 4:3 tv, what choice is there although it's getting better. Once you watch HD on it you don't wanna watch anything else. Who knew Public Television could be so interesting LOL. ST Enterprise was fantastic in HD last week.

I have a newbie question. When the tv is off I've noted a slight white discoloration and I thought it was the way the sunlight reflected off the screen at a certain angle. It looks like a slight warp affect in the screen itself although I don't notice any screen defect when looking at it up close. I also take no note of it when the tv is on at all. Because I can't see it when it's on I've ignored it until my wife got home from a week away on business and pointed it out to me (ARGH!). This is the first time she's seen the tv this weekend. Does anyone have a clue if it's really anything to be concerned about at all?

Originally posted by bigtv:)
Ok... it took me nearly all day and several sessions, but I have finally read this entire thread! Good grief! But damn helpfull. Im very glad I found this place.

At this point I have decided that I will shortly be purchasing either the 50 or 60" WE version of this set. What I cant decide is which one. I read all the posts on viewing distance comparisons between the 42s and 50s, but there was little mention of the 60s. I would like to buy the largest version I think I can get away with. My viewing distance is currently 10', but I could up it to 12' if need be. Any thoughts on which set would be better for me?

My primary viewing sources will be digital cable and DVDs with a progressive scan player. And what little my cable company offers in HDTV as well.

Also, I've spent a lot of time reading this, and the other thread about stands for this set. Does anyone have any pictures of the 60" model on a stand? Im trying to decide how important it is to me to keep the dimensions of the set within those of the stand, or just how bad the overhang will look.

thanks..

Nick BIG= there really isnt any ONE matching stand-just find one that meets your needs-the viewing distance for the 42 inch is approx 6 feet-7 for the 50 inch-so figure about 10 ft-viewing distance isnt nearly as critical as a tube tv where you had to get away from it to look decent-good luck

Originally posted by opuscat
For some of the questions about sitting x number of feet away. I have a 50" and I'm about 10-11 feet away and I find that about right if not sometimes slightly too close but it depends on the signal source. I watch quite abit of 4:3 tv, what choice is there although it's getting better. Once you watch HD on it you don't wanna watch anything else. Who knew Public Television could be so interesting LOL. ST Enterprise was fantastic in HD last week.

I have a newbie question. When the tv is off I've noted a slight white discoloration and I thought it was the way the sunlight reflected off the screen at a certain angle. It looks like a slight warp affect in the screen itself although I don't notice any screen defect when looking at it up close. I also take no note of it when the tv is on at all. Because I can't see it when it's on I've ignored it until my wife got home from a week away on business and pointed it out to me (ARGH!). This is the first time she's seen the tv this weekend. Does anyone have a clue if it's really anything to be concerned about at all? if its in the center of the screen i also have it on my 42 in-thought it was a reflection at 1st-like you say you cant see it so fuggetaboutit

As a recent GWIII owner, I have a question about the benefits of a progressive scan DVD player. I currently have a normal DVD player and the picture looks excellent. Is it worth the $100 to $200 to go to the progessive scan DVD player. Is the picture improvement really that noticeable?

mcpagano

Performance among progressive players varies so much that it's not only a matter of how deinterlacing performs but also a number of other factors.

Others have said that the Panasonic XP30 is a very good unit for the money. The only place that I've found one new is on ebay for something like $310. You don't state your location in your profile so be sure that it has the proper region code for your market.

mcpagano, $310 for a Panasonic XP30 is a rip-off. You should be able to get a XP50 for less than that price. I got my XP30 about a year ago for $170 (US). That should give you an idea of how much it's worth. I would look around to some of the newer DVD players (Bravo D1/D2/D3 come to mind) and see how they compare to the older XP30. Hell for $310 I'd consider selling you mine because I'm sure there's something equal to it out there for the same or less now.

LucidScreen

So where did you get a new XP30 for $170???

What do you guys think about the Sony DVP-NS725P


kevin

I just bought a SONY KF-60WE610. Now in this forum you usually dont give model numbers you simply reference GWIII or GWII. Is my 60inch 60WE610 a GWIII or a GWII, and what is the diffrence between the two. Sorry for being such a newb.. Also for other people who own the 60 inch which DVD player do you recommend for DVI Output?

THanks

Krypt0, what you have is a GWIII.

I've been reading this forum for the last couple of days and I have finally made my mind up to buy a 60" GWIII (assuming I can get a 2004 build). Now the question is where to get the best price.

I would jump on a price like $2800 that some people have said they got, but I can't imagine any retailer doing that right now. Should I wait or can a good deal be found? CC has it on sale for $3699 (a mere $300 off MSRP) but that is not a bargain.

You got a GWIII.

Originally posted by Krypt0
I just bought a SONY KF-60WE610. Now in this forum you usually dont give model numbers you simply reference GWIII or GWII. Is my 60inch 60WE610 a GWIII or a GWII, and what is the diffrence between the two. Sorry for being such a newb.. Also for other people who own the 60 inch which DVD player do you recommend for DVI Output?

THanks

I bought my GWIII 60inch from CC for $3490. Only took about 5 mins to talk him down. They also have a deal going on that tv. Free Delivery and 18 months 0% financing. That price was without the stand I would not buy the sony stand either they sell a nice bush stand for half the price that looks a hell of alot better. Hope this helped

What is the diffrence between the 2003 and 2004 builds, the "buzz, no turn on problem"?

That would be the difference. Apparently December 2003 is on the border line but supposedly January 2004 built sets have the fix already applied to lamp control circuit board as well as a different type of lamp.

$3490 from CC isn't bad. Did you purchase the extended warranty? I normally don't purchase extended warranties, but I'm concerned on a purchase like this that maybe I should make the investment, especially given the track record of this model.

I don't usually purchase extended warranties either. The Sony warranty is not an "in home" warranty. The thought of having to haul the 60xbr out to a shop was a determining factor. Also, if your spending 4-5K on a tv, another 400-500 hundred for a 4 year warranty isn't so bad. After reading many threads on this forum, it sounds like CC does a good job honoring their service.

Are the January build models shipping yet? I am considering buying but I'm not sure if I have the patience for a long backorder.

Well Hopefull the TV i recieve will have a 2004 build date. I havent got my set yet because its on backorder. The 60inch and 50inch are selling like hotcakes. And yes i did get the extended warranty. You cant beat CC warranty. 30 days returnable with no stocking fee you cant find that anywhere else. I would suggest getting the warranty in case you do have problems if you are going to spend $3000+ it just makes since to cover yourself. Cause who wants a $3000+ paper weight???? Not I.

JimP, I bought a brand new XP30 on ebay a few months back for around $170 also.

The picture is fantastic much better than my old non-prog scan Sony S550D.

doggiedog

I'll take one.;-)

Typically, you can't find new ones for that cheap. If you see another new one for that price, I really would be interested in it. (not a refurb)

Look on ebay .. they range from mid hundreds (used) to over $300 new.

Crutchfied has the xbr's, 60 and 70 in stock. They say they received them on Jan 15th. Don't know the build date though. They have free shipping. I am tempted to cancel CC order but still can't get here till next week. Also, CC is local makes service stuff easier.

I'm curious if anyone has the suspected serial numbers of prior bad build dates. I'm especially curious since I have a December build but perhaps it's best I don't know LOL ... I tried a basic search on the GW buss thread but honestly both of these threads are beyond long at this point.

Originally posted by JimP
doggiedog

I'll take one.;-)

Typically, you can't find new ones for that cheap. If you see another new one for that price, I really would be interested in it. (not a refurb)

FYI - Sharper Image Outlet has them for $139 + tax (if applicable) for refurbished ones with 1 year warranty. I started a thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=357881

I can save you a couple of bucks more. Go to www(.)mrrebates.com and on the right is a link to 15% off your first order at Sharper Image.com. You don't need to sign up for Mr Rebate (an ebates or Fatcash type service) either, but if you do there is another 5% back.

I haven't found a way to combine this with free shipping, but saving $21 is better than saving $16.

Goodguys has the 610's on sale and said they would be in their warehouse tomorrow 1/27.....ymmv

Any idea what the price is?

Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but just wanted someone to verify.

A friend game me his modified Sony DVD player (modified to allow playing of PAL DVDs/Region free). I hooked it up to my GWIII only to find the screen rolling up and down on me. I assume this means that the GW cannot interpret the PAL signal.
Is there anyway to allow this to occur within the service menu ?

My friend has a sony vpl-hs10 projector and it worked just fine on his.

Thanks.

Does anyone experience stuck pixel w/ the 2004 mfg date? Any complaints on the light buld?- buzzing noise?

Thanks.

RM

Given the native 788 resolution on the GW IIIs, is there a consensus whether it's better to feed this set a 720p signal or a 1080i signal?

I'm going to be setting up my parents Moto 5100 cable box and, if this group has already done the research for me, I'd trust your conclusions.

I'm shopping for an appropriate and affordable stand for the 60" model. Silver or black strongly preferred. Also must have space for a center channel (assuming a 12" deep center can't sit on top of this dog). Has anyone found any deals they'd care to share?

Also, does anyone know the dimensions of the "foot" under the TV?

Originally posted by zsir
Goodguys has the 610's on sale and said they would be in their warehouse tomorrow 1/27.....ymmv

They told me they would be in their wherehouse on 1/29/04... Im in California.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Given the native 788 resolution on the GW IIIs, is there a consensus whether it's better to feed this set a 720p signal or a 1080i signal?

I'm going to be setting up my parents Moto 5100 cable box and, if this group has already done the research for me, I'd trust your conclusions.

Jeff,

I have the 42" GW III. After much experimentation, I feed it 1080i
from my RCA ATSC11 OTA via the DVI connection. For my Bravo D1,
I set the Bravo at 720P and use the DVI connection also. 720P from the
Bravo looks best to my eyes. Of course, you need to experiment - that's
part of the fun. For those wondering about switching the DVI connection,
I just use an extension DVI cable (male/female). I leave it plugged into
the back of the Sony and then just manually cable up the RCA/Bravo
to the extension. This makes the cable easy to access plus you are not
constantly messing with the Sony DVI connector. You can find these
cables on Ebay for peanuts - they work fine.

Originally posted by wtn
Jeff,

I have the 42" GW III. After much experimentation, I feed it 1080i
from my RCA ATSC11 OTA via the DVI connection. For my Bravo D1,
I set the Bravo at 720P and use the DVI connection also. 720P from the
Bravo looks best to my eyes. Of course, you need to experiment - that's
part of the fun. For those wondering about switching the DVI connection,
I just use an extension DVI cable (male/female). I leave it plugged into
the back of the Sony and then just manually cable up the RCA/Bravo
to the extension. This makes the cable easy to access plus you are not
constantly messing with the Sony DVI connector. You can find these
cables on Ebay for peanuts - they work fine.

So the GWIII's funky native resolution of 788 doesn't create problems with the Bravo at 720p?? How does it compare to 480p via DVI??

Originally posted by JimP
So the GWIII's funky native resolution of 788 doesn't create problems with the Bravo at 720p?? How does it compare to 480p via DVI??

Jim,

The Bravo at 480P vs 720P via DVI into the 42" GW III is very close
in comparison. It took me a while, switching back and forth, but to me
there is a noticeable improvement (ever so slight) with the 720P
upscaling. We recently got season five of Star Gate - watch an episode
each night. I was commenting to my kids last night about what a
fantastic picture this combo produces with DVD's. (never had any
problems with the Bravo or Sony - so far) Also the Bravo at 1080I
does not look as good as the 720P.

I posted a little thing awhile back that one person mentioned they had too but ignored. I have what looks like a bubble almost behind the main screen. It's a weird warping affect like sun shining on plastic if you know what I mean. At first I thought that yes indeed, it's just the way the sun reflects off the screen. I orginally posted that when the tv was on I couldn't see it so I ignored it. I've been home sick the past 2 days and of course watched some tv ... you can notice it watching it during the day for sure if the show you're watching is rather black and darkish. ie... I watched T3 yesterday and you could see it for the first 1/4 of the movie and so I started to stare a little at it like a deer caught in headlights. Has anyone seen this on their own sets? I'm thinking of having a tech come out to tell me if it's normal or not. I don't see how it could be normal. It's not the end of the world but geeezz, I'm thinking 5k for a tv (that's Canadian) it should be pretty darn close to perfect. It just began to buzz some this week too *sigh*

Originally posted by bobby_t1
FYI - Sharper Image Outlet has them for $139 + tax (if applicable) for refurbished ones with 1 year warranty. I started a thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=357881


Can anyone view this thread? I sure can't, some type of a priv error....

Bobby can you post some of your info on the DVD player on this thread?

Thanks
kevin

Originally posted by kevindba
Can anyone view this thread? I sure can't, some type of a priv error....

Bobby can you post some of your info on the DVD player on this thread?

Thanks
kevin




Those players sold out so fast that many are on backorder status.

Originally posted by JimP
Those players sold out so fast that many are on backorder status.
Just checked with Sharpr Image - All backorders are being cancelled - there will be no more stock coming in. :(

Too bad.. Ebay occasionally has them but the word is out that this is a good player.. Starting price on an ebay one is $200.. and new ones (in box) up to over $300.

Just bought mine, after owning the Samsung 5065W with audio / video sync issues - returned. Paid $3400 for the 60WE610 and $60 for delivery.. (as a reference point). Also got the 3 year extended warranty for $300.. and have 30 days to extend if I want to.. up to 5 years.

It arrives Sunday, just before the Superbowl!! and with luck it will be on time.

Scott

As my WE610 arrives Sunday, I'm seeing a few posts about the production dates of the sets, having a Jan/04 date would be good. Do I need to get into the service menu to see this or is this printed on the outside of the TV somewhere? This will be the first thing I look for when the set arrives.

Thanks

Scott

It will be right on the back of the set.

All,

Before I order it, is this what I need to connect my 42WE610 and my 5100 Cable box?

DVI-D (DIGITAL) DUAL LINK CABLE 6 ft

THANKS!

David

Originally posted by faceoff
All,

Before I order it, is this what I need to connect my 42WE610 and my 5100 Cable box?

DVI-D (DIGITAL) DUAL LINK CABLE 6 ft

THANKS!

David

If it's a motorola DCT-5100 cable box, the DVI connection probably isn't enabled. Check with your cable company first.

If its not, just use component cables.. just get some from pacificcables.com.

As planned, my 60WE610 arrived today, Jan 2004 build. The set was on when I looked for the date code on the back.. never heard a fan and recalled when reading the printout's I made, that some TV have a fan noise. I returned my Samsung 5065W due to lip sync problems - and was hoping this set had not problems.. have watched P of C, the one that gave the Samsung problems, and no issues here. The set is large, me coming off a 50" Samsung.. but has a goo picture.. and although standard DTV is not great, it's "OK".. I can watch it. I have P-in-P set up know, playing S2 on one side why I watch the superbowl pre game on the other.. pretty cool how to change size of the pix on each. In all honesty, I was not thinking I'll keep this set as if close to the Samsung, which I was not real pleased with, I would return.. but at this point, after about 2 hours running, it's great. Much more to play with and learn, so off I run..

Scott

After weeks and weeks of reviewing this and the GWIII "buzz" thread with a mixture of eager anticipation for the reported great picture quality and dread of lamp failure, I'm pleased to report that my anticipation was rewarded and my dread unfounded. So far, anyway. Gotta' get back to the game.

well, i placed a deposit for a 60" saturday. should have it in a couple of weeks.

i went to page 22, and then reversed from the last to about page 60!

the Gateway DLP for $[Price Removed] really got me moving on the tv. i looked at it hard, but it wasn't as good a deal after shipping costs were added and 5 year plan was $500.

so, went to the Circuit City to look at the Samsung DLP (which has much better styling... and i'd pay a little more for that). but, the Sony LCD caught my eye. after reading that the DLP was the way to go, i kept thinking the Sony LCD looked better. i didn't notice any motion artifacts, the blacks looked good, the color seemed better, and the image seemed sharper.

then i went to tweeter and my opinion was the same. overall, imo, the sony lcd had a better image than the dlp - same signal. (see point number 2 below).

--
2 points:

1. they tried to sell me a monster power surge protector - about $199. said it would "clean" my power and that it would be critical. true?

2. i read in another forum that these tvs are actually LCoS (or similar)... i had been waiting forever for the LCoS philips tv... finally got a chance to see it at a local Tweeter... and it was broken. that ended it. i wonder if this is why these seemed better than DLP (as i read that LCoS is superior to both dlp and lcd). here's a link that was provided - sony's SXRD technology = LCoS?

um... sorry, can't link until i have 4 more posts... but it's at howstuffworks.com

My parents just received the 60we610 and the reactions to it are easy to describe. The HD and DVD are absolutely stunning, the SD is no better than and sometimes worse than their 31"JVC 10-year-old tube.

They are wrestling with whether to keep it as we speak. Unpredictably, mom is demanding that it stay and dad is not sure if he can justify all the extra cash when the majority of the channels, the SD ones, don't look so hot.

Has anyone here been able to make noticable improvements in their SD signals with tweeking or different sources or any other approach? This is a magnificent tv, but I fear that if I can't find a way to make SD look okay to my dad, they may send it back... and I can't let that happen!

Thanks!

Hey Jeff,
What is your signal source?
If you are on cable try splitting the cable to go into the cable box and also into the tv's RF connector. Watch unscrambled channels with the GWIII's built in tuner SD is much cleaner this way.

Egads, your tip may be the beginning of the solution.

My parents are currently trying out both cable and dishnetwork (trees blocking the Directv sats). Putting the cable line straight into the tv improved the unscrambled channels a lot! Now they just have to figure out how they feel about the "digitial" SD channels, which still look fairly mediocre after coming through the Moto 5100.

Does anyone here use a SD cable box along with their HD box, since the HD boxes do such a bad job with SD?

Thanks for the advice all!

Jeff

What are your parents using to connect between the cable box and the TV?

Originally posted by yshin
well, i placed a deposit for a 60" saturday. should have it in a couple of weeks.

2 points:

1. they tried to sell me a monster power surge protector - about $199. said it would "clean" my power and that it would be critical. true?

2. i read in another forum that these tvs are actually LCoS (or similar)... i had been waiting forever for the LCoS philips tv... finally got a chance to see it at a local Tweeter... and it was broken. that ended it. i wonder if this is why these seemed better than DLP (as i read that LCoS is superior to both dlp and lcd). here's a link that was provided - sony's SXRD technology = LCoS?



First, let me congratulate you on making a wise decision. I have the 50" and it is by far the smartest consumer electronics purchase I've made, ever. Sure, I was one of the 'buzzers', but I have my new lamp and life is so, so sweet. That being said:

1) Bull. They're blowin' smoke. Go to CompUSA and buy a $30 APC surge protector. The Monster one has a protection rating of 1,665 Joules and the APC has a rating of 2,525 Joules. Monster has $50K warranty, the APC is $75K. APC has a lifetime warranty, the Monster is 12 months. APC has been in the game forever and is among the most trusted in the PC industry. Monster makes good cables, but power supply/protectors?

2) I too was very interested in LCoS, but as you said, we waited FOREVER and when you did see it, the set was broken. As with all technology, there are going to be learning curves and growing pains. The GWIII has had it's share of issues (lamps, buzzing, flashing lights), but IMHO, for the money, there is no better set on the market right now.

You made the right choice. Once you get that bad-boy in your home, nothing will matter (except how much more money you'll need to spend to buy more HT/AV gear to go with it). :D

OK, as much as I've "touted" the 60" GW III after shopping for one for the last 3 months, mine finally came in yesterday. In anticipation of watching the Superbowl in HD, I got everything set-up and began to do some DVE tweaking. Out of the box, I could tell that everything was very red in the picture

Got to color and tint portions and there's no way to even get close to the saturation and tint levels DVE says I should be getting to.

Turned on the superbowl and the colors aren't anywhere near accurate....even with DVDs. Even changing modes (tweaked in "PRO" mode), didn't help. Text from DVDs looks fuzzy.

It almost looks like someone forgot to put in a "blue filter" at the factory. Everything is red....red....red!

What am I missing?

DO I have a bad set?

graphicguy

Check you component connections. Sounds like a couple of them are switched.

Graphicguy, my parents new 60" GWIII performs very cleanly out-of-the-box on the DVE DVD. Maybe a connection is bad or maybe your set is faulty.

JimP, my parents have a high-end component cable between their cable box and tv (no, not monster, actual high-end). They LOVE the HD performance, but the SD performance out of their Moto 5100 leaves much to be desired.

I am seriously considering renting an SD cable box from Comcast ($5 per month) to see if it can do better with the scrambled SD channels than the HD box is capable of.

I've got another question.

Sometimes, on some of the HD stations (e.g., ESPN HD) the TV will display a 4:3 image in "full" mode (which is stretched and looks lousy) and will be seemingly locked into full mode. I thought I read somewhere that the "Wide" button would cease to function with HD singals, but I didn't realize it would lock in at full mode. DVDs from the progressive scan DVD player also lock in at full mode and can't be changed (which is not a big deal for DVDs, since they're almost all widescreen).

I assume this is the way the GWIII was designed to function? Is the solution to watch ESPN-HD only when there is an HD program on it, and to use another ESPN channel to watch SD content?

Thanks.

Sorry to ask so much, but I must be my parents shepherd in this affair.

They have a macro programmable universal remote with learning. I have it all set to switch between sources (e.g., DVD, Cable, VCR), but the number of times you need to put a "tv/video" command into the macro depends from what source you're switching. That is, if you're switching from VCR to DVD, you may need to put in three "tv/video" commands, but from Cable to DVD it's only two.

Is there anyway to send a single signal to the TV to select an input directly (e.g., video 1, video 5, etc.)? If there were, I could set the macro to send the discrete video 5 signal when I switch to DVD, and it wouldn't matter from what source I was switching. There's obviously no button on the piddly GWIII remote to learn this from.

Does this post make sense?

Thanks.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
I've got another question.

Sometimes, on some of the HD stations (e.g., ESPN HD) the TV will display a 4:3 image in "full" mode (which is stretched and looks lousy) and will be seemingly locked into full mode....
...Is the solution to watch ESPN-HD only when there is an HD program on it, and to use another ESPN channel to watch SD content?
That's ESPN-HD stretching SD programming from their main programming and sending it out on the high def' channel where it comes out stretched. So, yes, that would be my solution if I didn't like the look of the non-HD programming in a stretch mode over which I had no control.

Jeff

I'm not familiar with HD cable boxes. My HD satellite box has an option in the setup menu as to how to handle 4:3 content. Maybe your cable box does the same.

In some instances, other have found that using a composit cable for SD programming did better as the Sony's electronics did a better job of deinterlacing. You might want to have composit for SD and component for HD cable. (different inputs on the back of the Sony)


As to video inputs on the remote control for macros. I used one of the generic Sony configurations on my hometheatermaster MX700. It identifies several of the GWIIIs inputs with discrete codes. That's what you want. The only input that didn't have a descrete code that I could find was for the DVI input. In time, they'll probably have one for that too.

Thanks all.

S2silber - that makes sense. It must have been ESPN-HD's fault.

JimP - my parents have the MX500, which I bought for them of course, so I will try the same route. Do you happen to know which preset Sony code # you used?

All - I just read in the GWIII manual that Wide Mode should only be disabled with 720p and 1080i signals. Any thoughts on why it would be disabled from a progressive scan DVD player? Is Wide Mode also disabled whenever a widescreen image is received, regardless of the resolution? I suppose the answer must be yes.

Jeff

On the remote codes. I used TV[070]SONY. Then use the IR Code dropdown menu and find the input codes. Seems like I used the learn function to memorize wide. Not sure that wide modes have descrete codes.

Originally posted by JimP
Jeff

I'm not familiar with HD cable boxes. My HD satellite box has an option in the setup menu as to how to handle 4:3 content. Maybe your cable box does the same.

In some instances, other have found that using a composit cable for SD programming did better as the Sony's electronics did a better job of deinterlacing. You might want to have composit for SD and component for HD cable. (different inputs on the back of the Sony)



My HD cable box (Scientific Atlanta) has a "passthrough" option on the Advanced Setup menu. That lets the Sony do the deinterlacing.

Originally posted by JimP
Jeff

On the remote codes. I used TV[070]SONY. Then use the IR Code dropdown menu and find the input codes. Seems like I used the learn function to memorize wide. Not sure that wide modes have descrete codes.

Maybe this will be obvious when I have the MX-500 in my hand and am setting it up, but what's the "IR Code dropdown menu?" I'm not sure I can picture what you mean by that.

Is your MX-700 porgrammed via a computer link? The MX-500 does not do that, I don't think.

Speaking of remote codes, does anyone know what code to use to get the Sony GWIII remotes to operate a Zenith or LG satellite receiver? It's strange that the manual doesn't include a code for Zenith satellite receivers since Zenith/LG makes the Sony-badged HD300 STB. That's gratitude for you. :rolleyes:

s2silber

Have you tried the one for the HD300 STB?

I don't know about the HD300; the manual does provide a code for Sony satellite receivers, but it doesn't work.

Originally posted by JimP
graphicguy

Check you component connections. Sounds like a couple of them are switched.

Damn, you guys are smart. I thought I had made all the connections and checked them twice. Just so happened one of the component connections was lose. Secured it and all I can say is "WOW....what a picture!"

I can't wait to finish calibrations. But, if this is the out ofthe box starting point, I can't wait to see what a bit of tweaking does.

Just when I was getting ready to call HH GREG and tell them I got a bad TV, you guys come along and straighten me out.

Thanks!

graphicguy

You're welcome.

The 60"er is one nice TV. Enjoy it.

After about 4 months of research and back and forth between sets, I'm pretty sure I want the 42" gwiii. I'm going to use it mainly for gaming: Gamecube, Xbox, and Ps2. Anyone have any opinions on how this tv is for gaming? More importantly, after reading all the posts, what does everyone think about getting one with a January or later build date? Has Sony found the problem and updated the newer sets? Thanks in advance.

I own a 61" Sammy DLP, I am intrigued by the 70xbr950. Has anyone seen them side by side? I am going to a dealer to check out the 70" XBR tomorrow, I have 2 potential buyers(probably without any $) for my 3 month old set with stand and optional 5 year warranty...my wife thinks I'm nuts! But seriously, how much degradation in video quality is there from the 60 to the 70? Has anyone used a processor/scaler? (I have an HD Leeza) What about dead pixel issues? and how about true seating distances everyone is happiest with. I am close to 9' from my DLP and that is cool.If I really like the 70XBR950 my display is in OHIO!

1 sales pro,

My parents have the 60" and I think 9' from the 70" is going to be much too close to get a decent image. Despite my feeling that the GWIIIs are the best TVs around, I think you'll see a lot of chinks in the armor from there. JMHO.

I agree with Jeff. While watching the SB on Sunday, my wife commented that she thought we needed to move the couch back. It was a joke, because we can't do it, but I get her point. We are sitting wth our noses 13ft 8in. from my new 70XBR950, and I don't think I'd want to sit any closer.

Don't get me wrong, I love the new TV, and the picture during the SB was indescribably beautiful. But the 70 is really almost too big at 13 feet. I couldn't imagine watching it at 9 feet for extended periods.

I would recommend keeping what you have and waiting for the NBT (next big thing), which might be lcos, or 3-chip DLP, or better blacks in LCD, or whatever.

LCD, Lcos, DLP, and CRT all have their individual strengths and weaknesses. It just depends on what you watch on it, what you hook up to it, and how good the other stuff in your setup is.

The only thing I don't understand is why anybody is buying plasma. Insanely expensive, fragile, shorter life expectancy, and (IMHO) poorer picture quality than either LCD or DLP.

Countz,

There is only one reason to buy plasma, but if your circumstances demand it, it's a compelling one - Wall Mountability.

The SB was sensational on the GWIII and watching the INHDs on my parents' 60" is a borderline religious experience. If anyone has not yet seen the Van Gogh special, you should make a point not to miss it.

JeffNebraska,

If you are still looking for a stand for the 60". You can go to
http://www.techcraft-furniture.com and look at their stands. I put the 60" on the FXB360. The base of the TV is 39 1/2" and the stand is 40" wide. A perfect fit. The stand also swivels. A neat feature that lets you get to the connections on the back. Not much room in the stand for equipment though.

Jim

i am going to use 2 ikea Kaxas tv stands to hold the 60" tv. the height seems to be just about right and i like the looks of it.

With my last set I sunk it in the wall, we got to 11 feet or so, but using the HD Leeza and the DLP technology I put up temporary "pretty" :rolleyes: finish quality 1/8' luan over the hole until I knew if I need the extra 2' again. I'm ok with the 9' with my current setup but if I would need 14', I could eliminate the office on the other side of the wall, and get 22' (then a divorce:( )!

My GWIII 50" finally made a buzzing noise & a pop sound and the screen went off & now its dead. The sony tech is coming out in 2 days to fix it.

I am wondering if anyone has thought about the a class action legal suit against Sony. a year or so back, IBM had a mass failure problem with one of their Hard Drive models & they were sued. Its in the court since and the consumer side should win.

Any lawyers in the forum???!!!

I mean I am talking about a product which retails for $5000 instead of $150 for a Hard Drive!!!!

A bit off the subject, but I'm looking for the code to control my Hughes Satellite receiver (Direct TV) with the remote for the 60WE610. I'd sure like to get his and use 1 remote.

Thanks

Scott

Does the 50" come with a spare bulb?

Does the 50" come with a spare bulb?

No, but some retailers will include replacement bulbs in their extended warranty. Get it in writing.

I bought the 50". I sit 8 feet from the TV and some seats are 10 feet. (scetional couch) Am I going to want the 42"? The TV wont be at the store until the 11th, I can change the order.

Change it to 60". Honestly.. at least in my situation at about 11'.. the 60 looks great.. the 50 was too small for my wall.

Pugdog, I sit about 9 feet away and the 42 is about right for me. I think the 50 would be too large, not because I'd be too close, but in my room the larger set would overwhelm the room. Others have said that the 50 is not too large for this viewing distance.

I have the 50 and sit 9-11 feet away mostly, my couch can move back and forth as required a coupla feet. There's so much 4:3 tv still that I don't find it too big. I would think anything larger would be too much for me personally but it's a personal decision. You probably have x number of days to return and get smaller or bigger if you find it the wrong size? It's the same number of pixels from 42 to 50 to 60. Some stations are unwatchable on my tv but that's more the source .. you can see'em a little better further away but once you watch HD you'll be watching PBS if nothing else is on, it's hard to go back.

Is there a test video to determine if there are dead pixels? Does AVIA have a section for this? What is the mode under Mild Mode, I have tried to find this and cannot. I am running the 811 Dish receiver via component to the tv, if that makes any difference. I am also wondering about "torch mode" as usually discussed with RPTV, can this happen on this set if you don't turn the Picture down?

I must say, that out of the box, the tv looks pretty good. Dish HD is phenomenal and DVD, well is always great.

Thanks folks!

Originally posted by pugdog1
I bought the 50". I sit 8 feet from the TV and some seats are 10 feet. (scetional couch) Am I going to want the 42"? The TV wont be at the store until the 11th, I can change the order.

I think either would work. I sit 10 feet from the 42" and it is fine.

Vic

Originally posted by vic4news
I think either would work. I sit 10 feet from the 42" and it is fine.

Vic

I sit about the same distance from my 42 and also find it just about right.

One thing that will influence viewing distance is the type of signal used for most of the viewing. HD and DVDs can be stretched much more than SD while retaining a good picture.

SD material is inherently weak. The more you blow up the picture size, the more evident the flaws will be. Sitting closer to the set just makes a bad situation worse.

I found a visible difference between the 42 and the 50 with SD material. I went with the 42 because the set will still be used for SD viewing a good deal of the time.

I have never regretted this decision.

Originally posted by scott472
A bit off the subject, but I'm looking for the code to control my Hughes Satellite receiver (Direct TV) with the remote for the 60WE610. I'd sure like to get his and use 1 remote.

Thanks

Scott

Call Sony's 1-800 number in manual. I did this and they gave me the code for my Mortola DCT6200 HD box

Originally posted by aydu
I sit about the same distance from my 42 and also find it just about right.

One thing that will influence viewing distance is the type of signal used for most of the viewing. HD and DVDs can be stretched much more than SD while retaining a good picture.

SD material is inherently weak. The more you blow up the picture size, the more evident the flaws will be. Sitting closer to the set just makes a bad situation worse.

I found a visible difference between the 42 and the 50 with SD material. I went with the 42 because the set will still be used for SD viewing a good deal of the time.

I have never regretted this decision.

What is SD?
I will be watching cable TV through a HDTV cable box using all gold plated Monster cables. I will be 9" away from the set.

I just called to find the status on my set and they are STILL waiting on a replacement part from Sony that they ordered last Friday. It has been 5 days! Sony, where the hell is my part? Every heard of "overnight delivery"?(So much for the myth some have of Sony handling this problem responsibly)

From what I could tell on the phone, they are waiting for a "microcenture switch" - I'm sure I completely mangled the spelling of that word. Anyone know what it is? They told me the part number is 1-468-798-11, does that sound familiar to anyone?

I called a help line at 1-800-920-7669 just to vent at someone at Sony to demand that they get my part to the support center tomorrow but they haven't called back.

Pug,

SD is standard definition, which is the majority of what will be available on your cable box.

Unfortunately, many, including me, find the SD image out of these HD cable boxes to be unacceptably poor on the GWIII, especially for any analog channels (not all channels from a "digital cable" provider are digital). Fortunately, there are a lot of suggestions for tackling the problem on this board.

Btw, prepare to be blown away by the HD images.

I had a feeling this TV wasnt for me. 95% of my viewing is SD. I am moving from a 36 "Sony XBR800 WEGA. I am ready to forget it!

If you will be hung up on your SD images being somewhat less clear than on a high quality tube, then this tv's not for you. If, however, you can live with some noise in your SD, the HD and DVD are absolutely stunning.

My parents purchased their 60" with 30 days to make up their minds and return if necessary. After 2 days, they realized the SD trade off was worth it and their money was well spent.

I watch almost all SD, and I would gladly buy a GWIII if the wife would give the nod.

Thanks, I have time to test it. How can I find the SD adjustment tricks on this forum?

I just read through it systematically, but you can also use the "search this thread" box, above, to follow up on anything you're really interested in.

The most important tip, in my experience, was that your cable line should be split to two lines, so that one can be sent directly to the GWIII's rf input for all your analog cable channels. That made the analog channels look much better than coming through the HD cable box (which does an incompetent job of upscaling).

I love the PQ on HD and the digital movie channels like Showtime and HBO. I get HD through Time Warner and have a selection of 8 or 9 channels to watch (Sho, HBO, CBS, NBC, Discovery as well as a couple more) and spend most of my time there. I only watch SD channels on a rare occasion (Fox, ABC, ESPN) and although not perfect I still find them watchable. I also watch DVD movies. I would say 90% of my viewing is either HD , upcoverted to HD or DVDs. I wouldn't go back to a smaller screen or non HD TV for anything and actually wouldn't go back if all I had to watch was SD and DVDs.

I've been trying to convince myself to go the distance and put down the money for the KDF60XBR950, but all these problems scare the hell out of me. I then looked to KDE-50XBR950 and LC37HV6U and now DLP. The choices are endless.

I've owned Sony before and like the product/company. Our sets will always be in 'brighter' rooms and have no plan to build a media room, but build media into a space (if you follow).

So if I could bother the thread to quickly help me sort through the dilemma of which type/model to look at:

KDF60XBR950 - picture looked great and the space isn't an issue. My only concern is the viewing angle of all projection TV's and tech problems with this particular set.

KDE-50XBR950: more money and less screen. Is the picture better than LCD RP?

LC37HV6U: Same with the Plasma, more money and less screen. LCD over Plasma?

DLP RP: If I read the forums correctly people are favoring DLP over LCD in RP sets.

So damn confusing and sorry I can't hash all the information that is on this board together in time to make my purchase. Hope you can help.

Van G

You're seeking an unbiased opinion in the wrong venue, but I think the GWIII is the best choice out there, unless the space demands you get a flat screen, in which case I'd go with plasma, or money is absolutely no object, in which case I'd go with plasma.

Does anyone have this TV with digital cable from cablevision in NY, NJ, or CT, who can comment on the picture quality of channels 4,5,7, and 11??

You're right. Not exactly an unbiased forum for this question. Couldn't find a place that was suitable.

Or howabout any area with digital cable and non-HD broadcast tv news?

Couple notes....

As stated, only the analog cable stations are irritating, (low end #'s on STB)

Digital stations acceptable.

The effect of a quality external scaler on digital channels is tremendous.

Hi Def and DVD is awsome on a set like this and phenominal with an external processor.

Sources will only get better with time, not worse, and if you go with the 42 you won't freak about it, if you are concerned, don't go 50,60,70.....there is the same # of picture elements in each display and "the closer you are to the larger it is" the more obvious and irritating.

Take the plunge. :D

PugDog1,

Couple notes....

As stated, only the analog cable stations are irritating, (low end #'s on STB)

Digital stations acceptable.

The effect of a quality external scaler on digital channels is tremendous.

Hi Def and DVD is awsome on a set like this and phenominal with an external processor.

Sources will only get better with time, not worse, and if you go with the 42 you won't freak about it, if you are concerned, don't go 50,60,70.....there is the same # of picture elements in each display and "the closer you are to the larger it is" the more obvious and irritating.

Take the plunge. :D

Ill will try the set in 50", it was my wife's request. I just dont want to take a step bak from my WEGA. What is an external scaler, does it clean or amplify digital cable signals? Do many people have them?

1salespro,

What's an example of a "quality external scaler" and where does one insert it into the video chain? I assume it's after the cable box and before the tv (via component?), but that seems too late.

Wow,

The scaler questions are too DEEP to answer in a paragraph, so in brief: an eternal scaler goes between the source and the display. Primarily it processes the video signal to your displays native resolution. Eliminating stretch and poor processing provided by less effectivre built in scalers. A good place to start learning is on the main forum page ther is a main thread titled external scalers. Some of the lingo can be frightening to beginners but lurk,read and go to product websites,then ask questions.

Products range from $300 up to the elite Faroudja @ $30,000. Key Digital makes the HD Leeza for $4000 that I use, DVDO now has its' new HD version for $1500, Zinwell makes a BriteView for around $500. There are resellers on this forum and check the HT MarketPlace here also. They are only effective on projectors, crt's and fixed pixel displays.

Well, there's a starter kit............... ;)

PS: connect via component,rgbhv,dvi to display with multiple varieties of inputs

Originally posted by pugdog1
Does anyone have this TV with digital cable from cablevision in NY, NJ, or CT, who can comment on the picture quality of channels 4,5,7, and 11?? puddog im from NJ-on cablevision--those stns out and out suck!pure television UNTIL i added the monster hts2000 line conditioner and surge suppressor-WHAT an improvement! jaw dropper!!! 80 per cent improvment--got one new on ebay for a hunnerd bucks-half the store price--try one --you will thank me-GUARANTEED-really DOES clean up the signal

Originally posted by studranger4
puddog im from NJ-on cablevision--those stns out and out suck!pure television UNTIL i added the monster hts2000 line conditioner and surge suppressor-WHAT an improvement! jaw dropper!!! 80 per cent improvment--got one new on ebay for a hunnerd bucks-half the store price--try one --you will thank me-GUARANTEED-really DOES clean up the signal

AAAAH! The truth! This is what I needed to know. Thanks. Check you PM.

Originally posted by Van G
I've been trying to convince myself to go the distance and put down the money for the KDF60XBR950, but all these problems scare the hell out of me. I then looked to KDE-50XBR950 and LC37HV6U and now DLP. The choices are endless.

I've owned Sony before and like the product/company. Our sets will always be in 'brighter' rooms and have no plan to build a media room, but build media into a space (if you follow).

So if I could bother the thread to quickly help me sort through the dilemma of which type/model to look at:
So damn confusing and sorry I can't hash all the information that is on this board together in time to make my purchase. Hope you can help.

Van G

Van,

You shouldn't be apprehensive at choosing LCD RPTV or DLP over plasma. Both are significantly better, IMHO. Neither DLP nor LCD suffer from burn in, both have much less screendoor, and they are less expensive for the same screen size.

CRT just doesn't cut it in a well lit or daytime room. The screens are too reflective, and the light output not bright enough.

As far as choosing between LCD and DLP, you should ask someone on this forum to tell you what's what. We all have strong opinions, usually leaning towards our own sets. For instance, I could tell you that I chose the GWIII over the Sammy HLN because I can see rainbows pretty easily on DLP, and feel the color dithering is too much to deal with. But that's just me. Can YOU see rainbows? I have no idea.

You need to go to the store, look at both, play with the settings, perhaps bring along a DVD you're familiar with. (Star Wars Ep. 2 is a great test DVD, IMHO)

I'm a newbie owner on the 50 and I'll chime in with some first time owner bits on the SD etc. This is a GWIII thread but pretty much all bigger tv's are crappy with SD. I find mine isn't terrible but it depends on the channel source. Yes, Analogue bites most of the time but so do some of the digital feeds. Most are okay ... The HD is fantastic though and where I am pretty much all major broadcasters have HD every night and this is going to improve and I'll go out on a limb and say this year will be a watershed. for example, Daytona 500 will be in HD this year for the first time. I thought they did a great job with the Superbowl too and some of the playoff games I saw were crystal clear. If you're going to buy this TV I'd say you have to sign up for HD if it's available.

If you're in the store and they have a feed, ask to see the different stations as well as DVD on the tv and ask the source (satellite, cable company, watch the stations you watch now for instance)? That way you probably won't be surprised when you get it home. I had a cheap booster on my analogue signal prior to buying this tv but the big tv will only serve to really show you how bad analogue really is is 90% of circumstances.

I'm very curious about the external scaler and what it can do for the tv now too. I've shyed away from UMR's service menu tweaks, scares the beggezzuz outta me when it says you have 3 seconds to perform this operation or you may render your tv useless LOL ...

As a last note, anyone else find the PRO pitcure mode completely pointless? I'm using that particular picture mode to fool with different settings from the menu only at this point.

Thanks for the reply mweflen. Think all the info got to me. I'll let my eyes pick the set like my ears picked the audio.

Cheers,
Van G

Quick Q regarding getting HD signals without secondary box? Which signals can these sets pick up?

Any Canucks with ExpressVu able to get HD without the HD receiver?
What about Dish, Direct TV, or Cable?

Van G

Originally posted by Van G
Quick Q regarding getting HD signals without secondary box? Which signals can these sets pick up?

Any Canucks with ExpressVu able to get HD without the HD receiver?
What about Dish, Direct TV, or Cable?

Van G

You'll have to have an HD converter box for the GWIII, it has none internal. I use Rogers Cable in Ottawa... if you already have their movie package etc the HD is $6 more a month. They have an HD Cable-Internet bundle package, it's $117

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
JimP, my parents have a high-end component cable between their cable box and tv (no, not monster, actual high-end). They LOVE the HD performance, but the SD performance out of their Moto 5100 leaves much to be desired.

I am seriously considering renting an SD cable box from Comcast ($5 per month) to see if it can do better with the scrambled SD channels than the HD box is capable of. Just in case no one else said it plainly enough, I have the Moto 5100 feed my GWIII through the component connection for digital (over 100) & HD channels only. I split the cable before the box to feed the analog channels through coax. The 5100 provides both digital & HD channels. Thus, for me, the SD channels are acceptable.

YMMV

Originally posted by pugdog1
I had a feeling this TV wasnt for me. 95% of my viewing is SD. I am moving from a 36 "Sony XBR800 WEGA. I am ready to forget it!

My SD viewing is from plain vanilla analog cable. No boxes or converters, just the plain old black cable from the wall to the set. Most would call what I receive as "basic" cable service.

The picture is outstanding for these sources. I think your experience will depend greatly on the quality of the signal you receive from your particular cable company.

My local cable outfit has gone through several owners. The current outfit has invested in the system, and the picture quality and reliability of the service have both improved greatly.

With any big screen set, feeding it a poor signal cause the flaws to be magnified by the screen size.

My advise is to find a vendor in your area that has the signal you'll be viewing available so you can see how your cable looks on the set you intend to buy.

I found the big guys in my area (Sears, Best Buy, Circuit City, etc.) didn't have a cable feed. I ended up finding a local shop that did, and I was able to see cable, DVD. and HD on the same set at the same place. That is what convinced me that the 42" was the best compromise for me - good screen size and really good standard definition - with the signal I would get at home.

If you can't find anyone willing to spring for a cable hookup, make sure they have a liberal return policy. That way, if you get the set and don't like the picture in your home, you send it back.

Thanks for the reply

I just changed the order to a 42" from the 50" due to the room size. I will only be 8 feet from the TV set. The store does not have a good return policy. They wont sell a TV with a trial period. If I feel it is too small when I get it, I will move it to my bedroom and go buy the 50" if the SD output is acceptable to me. My wife wont know what hit her!

okay, its took 4 days, but I read this entire thread from front to back. here is my two cents on the thread: Too many posters looking for issues with their tv's. I never noticed "screen door" but went looking for it after reading this. It is noticeable from less than 3'. Not one stuck pixel so I am happy.

TV:
Bought my set at CC for <$x700 (open box item). Not one issue with it yet. Had it for 3 weeks and got the extended warranty which covers the bulb. I sit about 12' away, and the stand is 20" tall. No complaints on the viewing geometry.

DVD:
Since I am a newbie, I hooked a rather plain pioneer DVD-444 (i think) progressive scan DVD via component cables and the picture looks awesome. I mean unreal. Animations are much more vibrant, but everything looks good. I will never watch a 4:3 movie again. Wife loves the picture. Have not tried switching the DVD at interlaced and letting the GWIII doing the upgrading. Who cares when I love the PQ as is? I watch on Vivid set to full for any letterboxed DVD's.

Cable:
I have dish network PVR 508. I used composite video and the PQ was much better than expected. I tried a monster cable s-video and the PQ is the same, but I use the s-video now. I watch on Pro setting.
I am on backorder for the 811, and have the superexpensive monster DVI cable waiting.:o (embarrassed I paid for that stupid cable...thinking of selling it on e-bay). Can't wait for HD feeds and neither can the wife.

Tweaks:
Reset everything to default settings. CC had the vivid mode pumped way up on brightness and picture. Have done none of the UMR tweaks (waiting to get the HD feeds first). Have to change the name of the outputs, but haven't figured it out yet. I bought the DVE DVD and am slowly going through that, should be complete Saturday.

Overall:
Completely happy with the set, and the price I paid. Negative is everything used to run through the tuner and used 3 remotes (tuner, DVD, and dish). now I have 4 remotes, sound runs through the tuner, video through the tv, and wife is not happy that it is even more complicated. Got down to 3 remotes by controlling the DVD with the tuner remote, have to work on getting her used to working the tv. Sometimes its just plain overload.

Just a note on SD TV PQ...after doing a bit of switching back and forth, I've come to notice that the PQ trhough the component hook up looks good with SD material. The downside is that I can't stretch the picture and have to live with the bars. Not a big deal since most of my viewing is HD material in the evening when most of the channels (ABC, CBS, NBC, etc) are in HD.

I've also found a difference in HD channel quality. INHD looks a lot better than CBS, for example. Does anyone get ESPN or FOX in HD? I know my cable doesn't.

I can live with the non-HD channels with bars since I've found SD looks better through component hookup.

This is with Time Warner as the cable carrier.

Fox is not HD.

Originally posted by graphicguy
I can live with the non-HD channels with bars since I've found SD looks better through component hookup.

This is with Time Warner as the cable carrier.

I find with my 60we610 that on SD veiwing composite output is best and component is the worst.

I have adelphia with a SA3250 HD converter.

I have the 60" GWIII and DLP is no comparison to the LCD Sony's. I shopped around like Sound Advice and did side by side comparison shopping. For the price this was the way to go for me. I don't see the black as an issue. The 60" by the way is plenty bright. Now that they have the light issue resolved this is a good deal.

Pugdog;
I bought a 50" GWIII and as soon as I got it home realized it was too big for the room, sitting 8.5 ft away. Tweeter swapped it out for a 42 with no hassle, and I am much happier. The PQ is better on DISH SD programming than the 50 I had, and the screen doesn't dominate the room. It's a TV in my living room after all, not a "Home Thea-ter"

pix attached.

Just got my 50" GWIII delivered yesterday.

Says jan 04 on back, dont notice any bad pixels, but i do notice bad blacks.. oh well no technology is perfect. But its awesome especially for a noob coming from a 20" JVC!

At the store i wasnt sure about size. The guy said if the 50s too big i can exchange for the 42, no prob. First impression was that its too big and i was sitting about 8-9' back. My sitting area is 12x11' with a dinning area of 8x10 attached. Pushed it right up against the wall and moved couch back a little and im starting to like. About 10' away now. Still undecided on exchange.

Still have to get a stand. Im thinkin about going with a Techcraft. I put it on a temporary table for now so i can judge hieghts before i spend money. table is 16" high and i think id like it a couple more higher. no more than 20"

Played with it most of the night. dont have dvd, reciever or anything else except my pioneer voyager cable box hooked up yet. watched some HD, watched 'the Hulk widescreen' PPV. HD is awesome. I get CBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, KCETla, Discovery, HDNet, HBO, Showtime, and a few others. SD is mostly not great with a couple good ones here and there.

My noob eye DOES NOT notice a PQ difference between component and DVI with either SD or HD! is that unsual? They look exactly the same. except with component i have to stay in 'full' mode.

Cant see where it shows my output, 1080,720 or whatever. It says to push these buttons. I did and it didnt show me.

Heres an HD Jay Leno ss (http://66.75.79.6/jay.jpg)

Another thing.. I notice when using the Monster DVI cable that transition between HD channels is FAR from smooth. It goes in and out 2 or 3 times before it catches and sometimes has static for a second or 2 before it comes in. Is this normal?? its very smooth with the component cables.

Funny...I was watching Leno last night, same scene, and thought....WOW.....what a picture.

Also, I notice that once the TV warms up, black level improves dramatically (takes about 5 minutes).

Got a question for all of you. I've done DVE. As a side note, I think the new DVE is more difficult to use than AVIA. So, I finished most of my tweaks with AVIA and absolutely love the picture, regardless of the pic I'm watching (SD, HD, DVD).

I'm almost finished with set-up except naming the outputs. For some reason, when I go to channel set-up, naming the inputs is "greyed out" and won't allow me to name, or skip the unused inputs. Any ideas?

Sportsound,
You have a very nice setup!
What is your stand? Where to get it?

Thanks.

MightiHd
Thanks;
The stand was something I had purchased years ago from a local furniture store. I took the shelves out of the side panels and the drawers out of the center for the speaker (it just fits). Then I went to the local Home Depot for some wheels to make the stand easier to move when servicing. I need a better cable management system, but for now this arrangement saved me several hundred dollars I can use to put room darkening shades on the windows!:D

Hey, no there's a plan I could use some advice on ... what do folks do with all the wires? I have what looks like a fire hazard behind my stand. I've gathered up some loose cable and binded it together but it's still a ton. Speakers wires, component wires, electrical plugs ... surge protector ... yikes

Originally posted by s2silber
Fox is not HD. fox sports is HI DEF

Originally posted by sportsound
Pugdog;
I bought a 50" GWIII and as soon as I got it home realized it was too big for the room, sitting 8.5 ft away. Tweeter swapped it out for a 42 with no hassle, and I am much happier. The PQ is better on DISH SD programming than the 50 I had, and the screen doesn't dominate the room. It's a TV in my living room after all, not a "Home Thea-ter"

pix attached. sportssound=the GLARE!!! i mean WOW!!! lololo doesnt bother you?

Originally posted by opuscat
Hey, no there's a plan I could use some advice on ... what do folks do with all the wires? I have what looks like a fire hazard behind my stand. I've gathered up some loose cable and binded it together but it's still a ton. Speakers wires, component wires, electrical plugs ... surge protector ... yikes opuscat-i have all my wires and cables to the right of the stand when viewing from the front--what i did was get the wires as flat as possible on the rug and then got a piece of stiff cardboard-cut it the width i needed and as high as the top shelf-(the stand)-then painted it same color as the wall behind it--viola!! hidden wires-PS-next to the tv is my audio stand (right side where the wires run)so the cardboard runs from the middle of the stand to the stereo cabinet-works like a charm--the monster hts 2000 is on the bottom shelf of the stand on the right side in back and to the right of the vcr-a little imagination is called for here-if it bothers you enough you WILL come up with a solution lol-good luck

True enough Stud on the wires bothering me... (I was also thinking about that glare in the daylight mannnnnn). So you have an hts2000 too eh? I was looking at an 1100 in BestBuy today. They were just setting one up and I said I'd be back. They were gonna sell it to me and I could bring it back if I didn't notice any difference in line conditioning ... hmmm ... but it's $329 Canadian ... just too much. I may have a boo next time I'm in the U.S. or something. So are they worth it? I know, I know, subjective questions ...

I have my Sony GWIII hooked up to a pelican switching device so I could hook up a PS2, XBOX, GameCube, Cable Box and DVD player into the set without switching cables (only so many optical/component hook up on the Amp/TV).
Anyway, the UMR tweeks, am I going to loose out on many of those because everything is fed into the set from one set of component cables, and there are different resolutions going through - 480i/1080i for cable, 480p/720p for PS2/GC/Xbox.

Should I remove the DVD from the switching box and plug it directly into the set before applying service/user menu changes ??

Thanks for your advice.
Thanks for any insight.

Originally posted by studranger4
fox sports is HI DEF

Don't know what Fox Sports you've been watching, but around here, all Fox shows in widescreen are broadcast in their 480p widescreen, including all the Fox Sports events. They were broadcasting their 480p ED all football season. Unless they just switched to broadcasting 720p or 1080i HD, then it's still ED, not HD. However, I read somewhere that Fox is supposed to be broadcasting true HD sometime this year...we'll see.

Since, a few of you have posted your setup, I've attached a pic of our new built-in entertainment ctr for our 60" GWIII (not shown are the surround speakers on the ceiling behind our main couch and the subwoofer inside the bottom left cabinet) Also, the "box" below the tv screen pulls out easily to reveal the GWIII on it's own GW1 stand - we designed it this way for easy access to components and wires :D:

studranger4 is correct. Fox Sports Network (not Fox network) *does* broadcast in HD (720p I believe). Regular Fox, as you point out, is still 480p until later this year.

Originally posted by KobeShaq
Cant see where it shows my output, 1080,720 or whatever. It says to push these buttons. I did and it didnt show me.


ok, i figured it out, but for some reason it only displays the numbers when i use component - not DVI. The cable box settings say 'Input format:480i (except when in HD it says 1080i), Output format:720p'. Is this correct?? Should i chang output to 1080i? please help.

Originally posted by KobeShaq
ok, i figured it out, but for some reason it only displays the numbers when i use component - not DVI. The cable box settings say 'Input format:480i (except when in HD it says 1080i), Output format:720p'. Is this correct?? Should i change output to 1080i? please help. if you set the cable box to 1080i or 720p,the stretch modes dont and shouldnt work-if you set the box at other than these settings,in these modes you can stretch the pic but at a cost--you have to STRETCH the HD pic to fit the screen-totally unacceptable in my opinion-set at 1080i and live with it-grey bars included

Thanks for reply.
output:720p was the default. ill change to 1080i

im trying to learn... so 480i = SD, 720p = ED, and 1080i = HD ?? or somethin like that.

Originally posted by KobeShaq
Thanks for reply.
output:720p was the default. ill change to 1080i

im trying to learn... so 480i = SD, 720p = ED, and 1080i = HD ?? or somethin like that.

480i = SD
480p = ED
720p = HD
1080i = HD

Originally posted by KobeShaq
Thanks for reply.
output:720p was the default. ill change to 1080i

im trying to learn... so 480i = SD, 720p = ED, and 1080i = HD ?? or somethin like that. KOBE-settings are for cable-im on cablevision-NJ-maybe diff for your area-but on cable 1080i is the standard-but you will have the grey bars-IF set at other than that youll get black bars=BUT have to STRETCH the HD pic-totally unacceptable to me--to ME that is! maybe ok to you-EXPERIMENT!!--its all up to YOU!-YOUR tastes-nothing heres gospel

Thanks. you guys are great

Oh yeah, the glare is awful. I can't watch TV during the day. There are 9 windows in that room and we're in the process of ordering room darkening shades and choosing a dark grey/green paint to neutralize the color. Heck, we don't even have our pictures and posters up yet... We've only been in this house since May, and there were other things that took priority over this room-but now that the screen is in, we want to get the room done.

It's absolutely pitch black at night. I had to buy a LumiQuest backlight to balance the screen and the back wall. Hopefully we'll have all this stuff balanced out before too long.

Just got my 50WE610 last weekend and I love it! Picture is amazing.

I'll get my Avia disc next week, but I think I'm noticing a slight left tilt to the picture. Is there any way to adjust the tilt?

Oh yeah - are the failure issues resolved with the 2004 builds?

(Also, is there no burn-in concern with this LCD RP?)

Thanks!

no real burn in concerns with the LCD...part of the reason I went with it over a plasma.

Kobe...how can you tell what signal the tv is in? I can't find anything to let me know if I'm in 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i. Is this a HD set-up box function? If so, I am still waiting on Dish to deliver that:mad:

Originally posted by studranger4
KOBE-settings are for cable-im on cablevision-NJ-maybe diff for your area-but on cable 1080i is the standard-but you will have the grey bars-IF set at other than that youll get black bars=BUT have to STRETCH the HD pic-totally unacceptable to me--to ME that is! maybe ok to you-EXPERIMENT!!--its all up to YOU!-YOUR tastes-nothing heres gospel

I'm curious ... and man these forums you learn so much, sometimes too much all at once LOL. Stud, you say STRETCH the HD pic? You mean stretch the output from the HD box when watching anything other than HD channels right? I have a crappy SI3100 box rented from my local cable provider. I'm hoping they get newer models this year. It outputs everything at 1080i over component connections like I have and you can't stretch anything. But anything shown in HD fills the screen so no probs. The problem I do have it some non-HD movies are shown here in widescreen. Well, they show up in a little box in the centre of the screen. That's black bars all around the picture ... I get around that by having an S-Video connection to from the 3100 to the tv as well.

I've also read here that I should bypass the HD box when watching analogue cable. That is, split the coax out of the wall, run one into the HD box and one into the tv direct. I'm wondering if others have tried this and noted any improvements? I picked up a splitter yesterday I hope to try this weekend if I can get my child away from the cartoons long enough. I have only one set of decent video cables that I've used for the DVD player (Belkins custom made here in Canada). I'm gonna try those from the HD box too since I'm using the cable provider's cables for that now. Slowly accumulating some quality cables but my wife thinks I'm crazy. Just got a digital coax for audio from the HD box into the home theatre system.

Okay, long message ... bsgoren, I like your built in cabinets around the tv. Good thinking on the pull out bottom.

Kobe...how can you tell what signal the tv is in? I can't find anything to let me know if I'm in 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i. Is this a HD set-up box function? If so, I am still waiting on Dish to deliver that

its on my pioneer voyager 3510hd cable box. a little button on front of box with a diamond on it.

Originally posted by AbMagFab
Just got my 50WE610 last weekend and I love it! Picture is amazing.

I'll get my Avia disc next week, but I think I'm noticing a slight left tilt to the picture. Is there any way to adjust the tilt?

Oh yeah - are the failure issues resolved with the 2004 builds?

(Also, is there no burn-in concern with this LCD RP?)

Thanks!

No they are not. My January build has the Philips bulb. Still waiting to see someone post who's got a new set (regardless of build date) with an OSRAM bulb factory installed.

Originally posted by pugdog1
Thanks for the reply

I just changed the order to a 42" from the 50" due to the room size. I will only be 8 feet from the TV set. The store does not have a good return policy. They wont sell a TV with a trial period. If I feel it is too small when I get it, I will move it to my bedroom and go buy the 50" if the SD output is acceptable to me. My wife wont know what hit her!

You made the right choice if your situation will be similar...I'm 10' back and STILL lean back on SD sources on my 50". Dark DVD movies look better the further back you are. Only way 8" will work on a 50" is HD or great quality 2.35:1 letterboxed DVD's.
-Saldisk

An electronics teacher in high school once told me the roughest part of light bulb's life is the turning on and the turning off. So a light bulb will last longer if you only turn it on and off once a day as opposed to turning it on and off 6 or 7 times.

Would this hold true for the bulb in my Wega? My wife is home with the kids all day and it's on with Veggie Tales, off listening to the radio, on for Regis, off for nap-time, on for Dr. Phil...etc. I'm wondering if I'm strobing this thing to an early grave. Maybe I should tell her to just leave it on all day...

don't know if it makes a difference, but my instinct would say to leave it on all day instead of on - off. if you are worried about it get the extended warranty with a bulb replacement. ALSO, all you GWIII owner's, i would strongly suggest getting a battery backup power supply (UPS). if you don't notice while watching (which it does around hear several times a year) the backup will start beeping and warn you if the power goes out, thus allowing you time to turn the set off normally and allow the fan to continue thru it's normal cool down cycle. could save the bulb. i would get at least 350va backup, but a 700va or more would be safer. a small investment of $30 or $40 could save a lot of headaches.

also here are my 2 cents on the size, i'm about 10' to 12' away depending on the seat, had the 50", but upgraded to the 60", and love it. the size gives me a truly theater like experience, vs just watching a large TV. it is a psychological effect that envelops you once the picture size takes up a certain percentage of your Field of vision. this is the MAIN reason hd was developed, so that this effect could be realized, but SD was just to poor to make make large enough. it's all about the size. by the way i really and truly cannot see a PQ difference between the sizes, if anything, very oddly, the 60" actually seems better! and yes the SD is rough, but there are some channels that are acceptable. but who cares, it's getting to point that there is a lot of hd programming, and in a few years sd will be dying out, slowly, but surely, so who cares what sd looks like on this set, just as much as who cares how an 8-track sounds thru a high end audio system? so go with the biggest size that you afford. i would also like to add that the service menu tweaks sound great, but here is something to think about. you can tweak it all you want, but picture quality varies constantly, from scene to scene, channel to channel, etc., etc., even the amount of over scan is really dependent on what is being sent by the network, or editor of that particular DVD. So you can tweak it right for one thing, and then it looks all wrong on the next. that is why i bought the gwIII, it just seem to vary LESS, from source to source, and scene to scene than all the other sets, i just don't notice to many times where something jumps out and says that don't look right. it just lets me watch and enjoy, and forget about the TV. yes i did some minor user adjustment, and once in a while i will have to turn the color up or down a notch or 2, or go from vivid to normal, for certain movies or shows, but it was pretty much set and forget right out of the box

Hello all again ... I agree with van fer a sec on that I change picture depending on the source and frig with the settings sometimes. I'm using the Pro mode for this alone and leave the Vivid and Standard settings as is so far. Anyway, to each his own and beauty in the eye of the beholder.

I took a read suggestion and split the cable outta the wall to feed my HD box with one and the tv direct with the other. I have to say that was a very good idea. The analogue direct was much better handled by the tv than thru the hd box then into the tv.

Lastly, the on-off again note up there. I would say on-off on-off several times a day can't be too good. It would thin some of it would depend on how many times and how much time inbetween the offs and ons. If you have a box inbetween the tv and the source (cable or sateliite) I'd leave the tv on and just turn off the box. Mine is normally turned on or off twice a day I'd say. If it's gonna be off for half an hour to an hour, I'll just turn off the cable box.

On the size business ... well, I was very worried about the size so I made sure I found a seller who would take it back. I thought the 42 was my size for sure. But then someone told me who bought a similar size tv that they'd always wished later on that they had bought the bigger one. I took that to the store and came home with the 50 to try. It stayed ...

hey opus i agree about wishing for a bigger size, i have to say that even though my 60" sits around 10' to 12' away normally, sometimes i get down on the floor with the kids and you know what? even at 5 or 6' away it still looks very, very good, as long as it is hd or a good DVD. i just don't see anything wrong at even that distance to really draw attention to it's self. put it this way, even at that distance and size, it still blows away the picture quality even at the local theater. it may seem ridiculous to have a really large TV at first, but again, hd is all about the size. go larger than you think you need, really, it won't take long before you get used to it and then even that begins to seem "normal". there is something immediate about people looking truly life size on the screen, and the scenes filling your Field of vision really gives a more immersing and surrounding feeling, it just draws you in way more than smaller screen, the same a way a good surround system can.

I went from a 36" direct view to the 60" GWIII. I was at first worried that 10 feet away was too close, in fact most retailers were encouraging the 50" when I spoke to them. Despite that, I bought the 60" and don't for a second regret it. SD is SD, I don't expect any more from that source. But a good dvd or HD from Dish is wonderful. I wanted this tv to come as close to a theater as possible given the room constraints and budget and would definately not have been satisfied with anything smaller. In fact, my brother in law just took a 60" home on Saturday and also is glad that he took it over the 50". Again, it's all personal preference and the 60" is perfect for me.

Sailorcrew hit the nail on the head. If you're looking for the theater experience, then go with a set that provides a larger field of view at your seating distance. The only thing that conflicts with this is that you might prefer a smaller screen for the 6 o'clock news. Even then, you might be able to use the twin view feature with a blank input scaling the size of the one you want to fit your preference.

Ask yourself, where do you sit in the movie theater. Front, midway or back. This usually helps deciding on an overall size.

I would say that getting the largest size that fits your room and viewing distance is the key. 50" worked perfectly for me at a distance of 8 to 9 feet, and 60" would not fit where my set is located.

The minimum viewing distance is 7.2' for the 60". I am almost dbl that distance away and have the 60" and love it. I really want 100". My house is set up for a front projection system. They are still too much money. This will tide me over for some time, then this will go in the bedroom!

I agree with Remus, but I must admit that the GWIII is one of those TVs that look great at almost any viewing distance/angle. At my Superbowl bash, there were some people sitting at angles/distances that would made it nearly impossible to see the screen on a conventional CRT RP TV, yet their images and experience was just as good as those who were front and center.

I just can't get over how sweet this TV is. I went from a 24" direct view Wega (now serving bedroom duty) to my 50" GWIII monster, and haven't regretted it one bit. Sure, I fell into the 'buzzing' crowd, but once I got my OSRAM bulb, the TV has worked flawlessly since, with nary a hiccup.

Viva la Sony! Viva la GWIII! :D

I mistakenly posted this message as a new thread when I wanted to post within this one. That reveals my newbie status to the forum; I am also a novice re: A/V issues generally. I have a 60" GWIII, DISH dvr-510; a Samsung v3650 dvd/vhs combo, and a JVC RX517v. The TV was delivered last thursday and was set up in accordance with owner's manual's diagram for connecting tv to satellite and vhs and then adding an audio receiver. Some people I have spoken with at the office seem to think this set up does not produce the best picture quality. Any suggestions/comments? I watch dvd 50 percent of the time. So far, certain programs on TV have looked awesome (Die Another Day on HBO looked fabulous) and other programs leave something to be desired, but are still watchable. I just want to be sure that I'm getting the best picture quality possible considering my HD receiver is still a month or more on backorder and I will not be upgrading any of the other equipment anytime soon. I would be willing to spring for some different cables if that would help. Thanks in advance and any recommendations need to be broken down to basic level.

General rule: Use the best connection possible and go directly to the TV (not through an A/V receiver or VCR).

Connection quality (from best to worst):
DVI
RGB
Component (3-cable RCA)
S-Video
Composite (single RCA)
RF/Coax

I just got my HD DTV receiver, and it has a DVI out, so that goes directly to the TV. My DVD player has component, so that goes to the TV over component. My Tivo has S-Vid. My PrismiQ media player has S-Vid. My receiver has component and S-Vid (but since I'm not using it to switch video, it doesn't matter much).

I find that S-Vid and below can be switched with an A/V receiver with no apparent loss of quality, so if it makes things easier for you, use your A/V receiver to switch those.

But send nothing through the VCR! If you want to use the VCR for something, have it be at the tail end (e.g. from the TV to the VCR). The worst thing you can do for a video signal is send it through a VCR before it hits the TV (in general).

I have a with a build date before 12/2003.

I have read about some sets having a problem with "buzzing" or not turning on when they should... and that SONY knows about this problem.

I have not had any problems (yet) and was wondering if the general concensus is to go ahead and call Sony to have them do "the fix" or to follow the "if it is not broke .. don't fix it " approach.

Thanks,

George

That should have read..

I have a GWIII 60" with a build date before 12/2003.

...

Originally posted by wxperson
That should have read..

I have a GWIII 60" with a build date before 12/2003.

...

I have a Oct 2003 build 50" and have had no problems in 3 months of ownership. I am going with the "If it ain't fixed don't broke it." approach. :D

Originally posted by wxperson
I have a with a build date before 12/2003.

I have read about some sets having a problem with "buzzing" or not turning on when they should... and that SONY knows about this problem.

I have not had any problems (yet) and was wondering if the general concensus is to go ahead and call Sony to have them do "the fix" or to follow the "if it is not broke .. don't fix it " approach.

Thanks,

George

wxperson,

I have the 42" GWIII - in use since 12/25/2003 - no problems yet.
The "fix" for the buzzing problem or actual lamp failure is just to replace
the lamp with one manufactured by OSRAM. Some number (could be high)
of Phillips bulbs were not manufactured to specification and therefore
failed - sometimes they failed in a short amount of time or in some cases
60+ days. Before Sony switched to the OSRAM bulb, they were having
techs solder in suface mount resistors/capacitors to the lamp driver circuit
board to try to "match" the circuit to the out-of-spec Phillips lamps which
at the time is the only type of lamp that they had as replacements. If your
set is working don't mess with it. If it quits, call Sony and request a new OSRAM bulb - under no circumstances would I allow a tech to solder SMD
parts onto my lamp starter circuit board. That said, a few folks have had
a more serious problem that involved complete board replacements. We are still watching the reports on the OSRAM lamp replacements from their
respective owners - so far it looks good.

I've got a KF50WE610 January 23, 2004, build that I was told by the factory had all three fixes done on it before leaving the assembly line. However, it also contains a Philips bulb which after eight days seems to be working fine, except that the inner lamp housing has a crack in its glass. I wonder whether I should replace the bulb with an Osram that a local service tech' has on order for me, or do nothing until something goes wrong?

Originally posted by AbMagFab
General rule: Use the best connection possible and go directly to the TV (not through an A/V receiver or VCR).

Connection quality (from best to worst):
DVI
RGB
Component (3-cable RCA)
S-Video
Composite (single RCA)
RF/Coax

I just got my HD DTV receiver, and it has a DVI out, so that goes directly to the TV. My DVD player has component, so that goes to the TV over component. My Tivo has S-Vid. My PrismiQ media player has S-Vid. My receiver has component and S-Vid (but since I'm not using it to switch video, it doesn't matter much).

I find that S-Vid and below can be switched with an A/V receiver with no apparent loss of quality, so if it makes things easier for you, use your A/V receiver to switch those.

But send nothing through the VCR! If you want to use the VCR for something, have it be at the tail end (e.g. from the TV to the VCR). The worst thing you can do for a video signal is send it through a VCR before it hits the TV (in general).

I agree with the exception that signal quality for a direct connection is best when possible. For example, using a DVI connection for HD and SD cable feed can yield inferior PQ for the SD material.

Best SD presentation can usually be had by running the coax direct from the wall to the set. You can then run the coax out to the decoder box for HD or digital channels that need the box for processing.

So, sometimes it is not the connection type, but the directness of the signal path. Less processing generally gives better PQ.

Has anyone experienced color "blotches" on the GWIII? I have a 50" and there is a red blotch (very light, only visible when the room and display are dark) just in the lower right area of the screen. I've read some posts about "crop circles" and that they may caused by something in the optics or something on/near the panels.

Any ideas on how a service tech would correct this? cleaning? replacement?

Thanks.

Yes!

I have a Dec 2003 build 50WE610 set that developed a small green circle (size of a silver dollar) on the bottom of the set at about 3 weeks old. The tech came out and said the optics unit needs to be replaced. This was diagnosed about a month ago. Since then another green circle has appeared in the center, but much less visible. Both these circles are visible only against a black background, and really only a minor nuisance. Had this happened a few years down the road I could have lived with the defect.

I did some research and found the term "crop circles" to describe this problem, and this is common to all the LCD RPTV makers, not just Sony. Since this happened within the first month I opted to have the set replaced entirely. The set was backordered for a while, and a new one was to be delivered the Sat before the Superbowl. For obvious reasons I stalled untill next weekend, hoping for a Feb 03 build so I would not have any more issues.

Besides these "crop circles" the set has performed flawlessly with no stick pixels or Buz problem whatsover. The picture is awesome, which makes it hard for me to hate the GWIII.

How old is your set? Can you exchange it? If it's still under warranty it should be easy to fix. The tech said he had done one of these and the parts replacement did the trick. He advised me against getting a new one because: "you don't know what other problems you might get"....

Hopefully SONY has fixed their quality issues by now. The manufacturing line has been open almost 6mos!

Good luck

I don't want to get off topic but this applies to the gwiii. I just got an Ideal-Lume standard model for backlighting. The instuctions state that the light should be at about 10% of the peak white output device (tv). I read that this tv puts out 45 foot lamberts. Would this be the peak white output? If not, what is it. Secondly, I also got the filters with the Ideal-Lume. If I'm shooting for the 10% mark, does anyone know if any filters are used to reach the right level. Thanks, David

Originally posted by aydu

Best SD presentation can usually be had by running the coax direct from the wall to the set. You can then run the coax out to the decoder box for HD or digital channels that need the box for processing.

So, sometimes it is not the connection type, but the directness of the signal path. Less processing generally gives better PQ.

I'll second that again. I split the signal with one to the HD box and one direct into the tv. Analogue is now clearer in my opinion than when watching thru HD box. My HD box has no DVI so it's component connected.
Plusssss, cable company just threw on a signal booster tonight thank gawd. I complained last night about audio and video drops on HD and my analogue channels were getting worse. Fixed me right up the next day so good service at least there.

Originally posted by s2silber
I've got a KF50WE610 January 23, 2004, build that I was told by the factory had all three fixes done on it before leaving the assembly line. However, it also contains a Philips bulb which after eight days seems to be working fine, except that the inner lamp housing has a crack in its glass. I wonder whether I should replace the bulb with an Osram that a local service tech' has on order for me, or do nothing until something goes wrong?

I'll be watching your posts closely since we bought our 50 on the same day on different coasts. As hot as that glass gets back there, is it the bulb or the housing that is cracked?

-Saldisk

After 9 days I'm very satisfied with my 50 and have noticed I'm getting use to the weak black levels as nightfall hits around 5:40pm. So what are my complaints? Well, I thought I might get away not having to spend $$$ for ISFcalibration but apparently I was wrong. Now the wife and I are having a riff about the extra money. Other complaints: skin tone variance is extreme from channel to channel, one channel skin tones perfect the next its pink, the next a golden yellow. Do you experience the same? Also, whether I use progressive or high density line doubling I have noticed on certain channels very obvious scanning lines. Could this be from weaker digital signal? What is your experience?

-Saldisk

Originally posted by Saldisk
I'll be watching your posts closely since we bought our 50 on the same day on different coasts. As hot as that glass gets back there, is it the bulb or the housing that is cracked?

-Saldisk
It's the housing. If it were the bulb, I don't think I'd be seeing much of a picture.:D The bulb issue notwithstanding, I've got to admit that my picture is nothing short of outstanding. I don't have any of the variances or faults you're describing. Is Jan. 23rd, in fact, your date of production? Mine came from a plant in western Pennsylvania. I've got to imagine yours was produced somewhere in the west.