Sony GWIII Owners thread [Text View] - Page 7

kysbraaf

02-11-04, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by AbMagFab
General rule: Use the best connection possible and go directly to the TV (not through an A/V receiver or VCR).

Connection quality (from best to worst):
DVI
RGB
Component (3-cable RCA)
S-Video
Composite (single RCA)
RF/Coax

I just got my HD DTV receiver, and it has a DVI out, so that goes directly to the TV. My DVD player has component, so that goes to the TV over component. My Tivo has S-Vid. My PrismiQ media player has S-Vid. My receiver has component and S-Vid (but since I'm not using it to switch video, it doesn't matter much).

I find that S-Vid and below can be switched with an A/V receiver with no apparent loss of quality, so if it makes things easier for you, use your A/V receiver to switch those.

But send nothing through the VCR! If you want to use the VCR for something, have it be at the tail end (e.g. from the TV to the VCR). The worst thing you can do for a video signal is send it through a VCR before it hits the TV (in general).

Well, got the TV all hooked up with a direct signal from satellite to TV using S-Vid and red/white cables since the DISH box I currently have does not have component or DVI outputs. I tried running the red/white cables from the sat. receiver to dvd/vcr combo, and then from dvd/vcr out to tv; however, I was unable to get sound or picture from the vcr/dvd without using a coax from the "out to TV" on the vcr combo to the "VHF/UHF" port on the TV. Anyway, that gave me a direct connect for the satellite source and a decent picture for the DVD/ VCR on a separate input. Now, the problem is that after the TV has been on for a while, I lose the picture and sound on the direct connection, although the channel and program information still appears on the screen when flipping through channels. If I turn everything off for a while, the problem is fixed, although when I first turn the TV back on, the message that the receiver is "acquiring signal" comes on the screen and I have to wait for the receiver to go through its paces before the picture and sound kick in. Since I have the TV and satellite receiver on a UPS, there is no possibility that there was any power loss when everything was turned off. The DISH person suggested that I try plugging the TV and the receiver into different outlets or outlets on different circuits on the theory that the "TV's voltage is overwhelming the receiver" and that they "are slaving off each other" (whatever that means) and see if the problem continues. I wondered if there are any other thoughts re: this perplexing issue.

countz

02-11-04, 01:40 PM

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Mewilicka - I was not able to find a way to get those direct video input buttons. I tried the suggestion of using the pre-pro codes and hoped to see the direct inputs on the remote's lcd, but they weren't there. If I knew someone with the MX-700, I could learn it from them, but I don't. Let me know if you crack this one. It would save my parents a lot of confusion.

As to this "full" mode DVD issue, I posted a while ago that my parents' GWIII locks into full mode on widescreen DVDs and can't be changed. Not sure if I've tried with a 2:35:1 movie yet, but I haven't seen a DVD with black bars on top or bottom, nor a DVD where I could escape full mode (won't work with with DVE or X2, for example).

Are other people's sets able to do this? Could it be a function of my parents DVD player, somehow (Toshiba 4800)? Now I'm confused.

Here is something you might try:

In your macro, send a CH+ or CH- first, which should set the TV into "TV MODE" regardless of its current mode. This will give you a base starting point for however many INPUT key presses you need to get to VIDEO3 or VIDEO5.

I think the first CH+ sent to the TV when it is not already in TV mode will not actually change the channel, but if it does and that is a problem, send both a CH+ and CH- to get back to whatever channel it was on before you send the 3 or 5 INPUT keys.

On the FULL MODE thing, I'm not sure which GWIII you are referring to, but I would only expect the TV to lock into FULL MODE when it is being sent a 720p or 1080i signal. (The newer GWIIIs don't even lock to FULL on those signals). A "normal" progressive-scan DVD player will send a maximum of 480p, so you should not see any "locking" on DVDs (especially with a Tosh 4800).

In order to get a 480p signal, you must use a component (aka Y/Pb/Pr, or Y/Cb/Cr) or DVI connection. Composite and S-VIDEO will not carry anything higher than 480i.

On my older kp65xbr10w, it would switch the TV to FULL MODE whenever I sent a 480i signal over the component connection from an Anamorphic DVD, but I don't think it "locked" into FULL MODE. I think I was still able to switch to ZOOM or WIDEZOOM if needed. Then when I got a progressive scan DVD player, it started sending 480p, and the TV no longer even switched into FULL MODE.

When I hooked up my HTPC and started sending 720p and 1080i, the 65xbr10w DID lock into FULL MODE, and I could not change it. (My new 70xbr950 no longer does that).

Bottom line is, there are many things that work together to get the picture from the DVD player to your TV, and you'll have to check them all.

1) Make sure the DVD player knows that your TV is 16x9 in the setup menus.
2) Make sure the DVD player is sending a progressive scan signal (this may or may not be an optional setting, but it often is), unless you don't want the DVD player to do the de-interlacing for you (there are several schools of thought on this issue, which I will not get into).
3) Use component cables (Y/Pb/Pr, or green, blue, red) to connect from your DVD player to the TV (Composite, or yellow, red, white should be your LAST choice, with the S-VIDEO (looks like a computer mouse connector) being slightly better). DVI (looks sort of like a serial or parallel computer connector) is arguably the best choice, but DVD players and TVs with this type of connection are rare. Then of course there's the new HDMI, and even RGB on many Toshibas, but those are so rare as to not merit mention.
4) Make sure your TV's component inputs can accept a 480p signal. (on my 65xbr10w, VIDEO4 had component connectors, but I don't think it actually accepted 480p on that device, I had to use VIDEO5).

Hope this helps,
DavE

P.S. To answer the question from boozcruz33 more directly, YES - if you are using composite or S-VIDEO connections, you will have to watch DVDs in ZOOM mode rather than FULL. You should be much happier with a component connection (However that connection doesn't carry audio, so you'll have to send that another way, COAXIAL- or OPTICAL-DIGITAL being the best choice there, which probably opens a whole new can of worms...)

vandammeman

02-11-04, 02:13 PM

I have tried progressive and 3:2 cinemotion on this set fed thru the component input, and prefer the 3:2 every time. also i have noticed the scan line artifacts on on SD fed thru s-video from my dishnet 811, is there a fix for it? my HD is fed thru the component, and it looks great, BUT, fed thru the DVI it looks awful. any fix for that?

JeffNebraska

02-11-04, 04:05 PM

Countz,

First of all, your solution to the video macro problem is inspired. I'm humbled by your elegant ingenuity.

Second, the DVD player is connected through the component input (video 6) and is sending a progressive 480p signal. The tv model is the 60we610, which so many here have.

When I read the manual, it said the various wide modes were for 4:3 images and wouldn't work on 720p and 1080i. That's why I thought it made sense that a widescreen DVD image would lock in to "full" mode. Now, if others are saying that doesn't happen on their 60we610s, I'm totally confused.

It's hard to believe it would be a glitch in my parents' set, as it is otherwise functioning perfectly. If anyone has any theories, I'm all ears.

Thanks again.

P.S. Come to think of it, one other strange thing with the wide modes is that ESPN HD also locks into full mode, even though the image is 4:3 and it looks bad when it's stretched. Do others experience this as well? Is there some setting that causes the tv to lock into full mode for wide screen images? Hmmm....

Saldisk

02-11-04, 04:14 PM

I may be in denial here...though I've read the manual I don't like what I'm reading. Can you preset the color, brightness, etc in the Vivid or Standard mode on each of the video inputs? Standard works great on tuner but too bright and colorful on SVHS...
-Saldisk

Remus

02-11-04, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by JeffNebraska

P.S. Come to think of it, one other strange thing with the wide modes is that ESPN HD also locks into full mode, even though the image is 4:3 and it looks bad when it's stretched. Do others experience this as well? Is there some setting that causes the tv to lock into full mode for wide screen images? Hmmm....

Is this only happening with an HD signal like ESPNHD? If not, check your 4:3 default setting in the UM.

exLabDriver

02-11-04, 04:20 PM

vandammeman:

I'm not sure that I understand your artifact problems with Cinemotion, but for what it's worth, this is how I view sources on my GWII.

Cinemotion 'On' for film based sources such as DVD.

Cinemotion 'Off' for normal broadcast, cable, etc.

Using Cinemotion for normal broadcasting will cause small bursts of horizontal artifacts during rapid scene changes. This phenomena eliminated with Cinemotion off.

mwelicka

02-11-04, 04:50 PM

Originally posted by countz
Here is something you might try:

In your macro, send a CH+ or CH- first, which should set the TV into "TV MODE" regardless of its current mode. This will give you a base starting point for however many INPUT key presses you need to get to VIDEO3 or VIDEO5.

I think the first CH+ sent to the TV when it is not already in TV mode will not actually change the channel, but if it does and that is a problem, send both a CH+ and CH- to get back to whatever channel it was on before you send the 3 or 5 INPUT keys.

Thanks, what a great idea! I will give that a try when my replacement set gets delivered on Friday.

aydu

02-11-04, 06:41 PM

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Countz,

First of all, your solution to the video macro problem is inspired. I'm humbled by your elegant ingenuity.

Second, the DVD player is connected through the component input (video 6) and is sending a progressive 480p signal. The tv model is the 60we610, which so many here have.

When I read the manual, it said the various wide modes were for 4:3 images and wouldn't work on 720p and 1080i. That's why I thought it made sense that a widescreen DVD image would lock in to "full" mode. Now, if others are saying that doesn't happen on their 60we610s, I'm totally confused.

It's hard to believe it would be a glitch in my parents' set, as it is otherwise functioning perfectly. If anyone has any theories, I'm all ears.

Thanks again.

P.S. Come to think of it, one other strange thing with the wide modes is that ESPN HD also locks into full mode, even though the image is 4:3 and it looks bad when it's stretched. Do others experience this as well? Is there some setting that causes the tv to lock into full mode for wide screen images? Hmmm....

DVDs that are anamorphic will be presented in full mode. This is a function of the disc. These are usually either called anamorphic transfers, or "enhanced for widescreen".

Some older discs are widescreen versions only. These will be shown as a small box on the screen with borders all around. You can use any of the stretch modes to fill the screen horizontially.

Check the box of the disc you are using. If you don't see the anamorphic indication, or the "enhanced" wording, everything is working properly. Most newer DVDs are anamorphic, but there are exceptions.

countz

02-11-04, 06:44 PM

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Countz,

First of all, your solution to the video macro problem is inspired. I'm humbled by your elegant ingenuity.

Thanks. I'm not sure I can take complete credit for it. I may have read that somewhere else long enough ago that I forgot where.

If you really want ingenuity, ask me how my 8-yr old son dips his Oreos in milk...

Second, the DVD player is connected through the component input (video 6) and is sending a progressive 480p signal. The tv model is the 60we610, which so many here have.

Yeah, I am probably lurking on the wrong thread. Technically, the 70xbr950 is not called a GWIII in this forum, so anything I say pertains to the XBR where there is any difference.

When I read the manual, it said the various wide modes were for 4:3 images and wouldn't work on 720p and 1080i. That's why I thought it made sense that a widescreen DVD image would lock in to "full" mode. Now, if others are saying that doesn't happen on their 60we610s, I'm totally confused.

This is behaviour that would not surprise me on the 610s, as my old TV did the same thing. It may only be the newer XBRs that can scale 720p and 1080i to any size for display purposes. But the Tosh 4800 doesn't have 720p or 1080i output capability, as far as I know, so your TV should still not lock on FULL when watching DVDs.

It's hard to believe it would be a glitch in my parents' set, as it is otherwise functioning perfectly. If anyone has any theories, I'm all ears.

Thanks again.

P.S. Come to think of it, one other strange thing with the wide modes is that ESPN HD also locks into full mode, even though the image is 4:3 and it looks bad when it's stretched. Do others experience this as well? Is there some setting that causes the tv to lock into full mode for wide screen images? Hmmm....

Probably not a glitch, just a hookup or configuration problem, though I'm at a loss if you checked everything I mentioned before.

Your ESPN HD problem is a different matter. Since the 610 has no HD tuner built in, I'm guessing you are using an HD STB with component outputs. Standard HD broadcast is 1080i (or 720p in some cases (to satisfy the nitpickers...)), so I am not surprised at all that your TV locks into FULL mode while watching HD. So then it becomes a possible configuration problem with the STB. You need to make sure it knows that you have a 16x9 TV as well.

JeffNebraska

02-11-04, 08:20 PM

[/B][/QUOTE] This is behaviour that would not surprise me on the 610s, as my old TV did the same thing. It may only be the newer XBRs that can scale 720p and 1080i to any size for display purposes. But the Tosh 4800 doesn't have 720p or 1080i output capability, as far as I know, so your TV should still not lock on FULL when watching DVDs.[/B][/QUOTE]

What I was getting at is that since the manual says the wide modes are for 4:3 material, I wasn't surprised that they were disabled by widescreen material, even when its 480i or 480p. You're correct that the Tosh is lucky to muster up 480p, and it ain't goin' beyond that fo' sho'.

Can someone else with a 610 confirm that they can use the wide modes on widescreen DVDs?

[/B][/QUOTE] Your ESPN HD problem is a different matter. Since the 610 has no HD tuner built in, I'm guessing you are using an HD STB with component outputs. Standard HD broadcast is 1080i (or 720p in some cases (to satisfy the nitpickers...)), so I am not surprised at all that your TV locks into FULL mode while watching HD. So then it becomes a possible configuration problem with the STB. You need to make sure it knows that you have a 16x9 TV as well. [/B][/QUOTE]

The thing is, when you watch HD on CBS or another part-time HD channel, the program is locked on full, but the commercials give you back control over the wide mode. On ESPN HD, it is always locked on full and always looks like a stretched 4:3 image. SOmeone suggested before that ESPN HD may just broadcast a stretched 4:3 image for games not filmed in wide screen, but I'm yet to see a single correct widescreen image on that channel.

opuscat

02-11-04, 09:36 PM

Picked up my new HD box tonight and it's the first one I've had that can output in any mode 480i or p, 720p and 1080i. Now what has been anyone's experience with PQ using this option now? Set'er native to the source and let the tv handle it? Or just set'er to 1080i and let it go?

Can someone confirm I have this straight too

HD is 1080i and 720p I know ... but how do you know who broadcasts in what? I assume most of it s 1080i?

480i standard analogue channels
480p standard digital channels and DVD?

tx, Opus

JeffNebraska

02-11-04, 09:43 PM

Check www.HDTVGALAXY.com for who broadcasts in what.

I think digital channels are 480i, not 480p.

A lot of people have better luck on SD channels sending them in 480i, rather than having the box upconvert them to 1080i. Better yet, you might want to skip the box whenever you can on the SD material.

opuscat

02-11-04, 09:57 PM

Thanks Jeff ... I do bypass the box completely on regular analogue. Just wondering what I should do for digital channels, let the box output at 480i then and let tv handle it then? That makes sense to me. If it works better for analogue then perhaps same is true for digital sources?

Remus

02-12-04, 08:07 AM

Originally posted by opuscat
Thanks Jeff ... I do bypass the box completely on regular analogue. Just wondering what I should do for digital channels, let the box output at 480i then and let tv handle it then? That makes sense to me. If it works better for analogue then perhaps same is true for digital sources?

I prefer 1080i only because I want the guide on D* to be full size at all times. Since 90+% of my viewing is OTA HD and D* HD this works for me.

WolfGate

02-12-04, 08:16 AM

Originally posted by opuscat
Thanks Jeff ... I do bypass the box completely on regular analogue. Just wondering what I should do for digital channels, let the box output at 480i then and let tv handle it then? That makes sense to me. If it works better for analogue then perhaps same is true for digital sources?

This is what I do. I simply think there is better PQ and fewer artifacts this way - both for analog and digital channels.

m_nieft

02-12-04, 08:44 AM

This is my understanding of ESPN HD....for images not shot in HD, they use a regular SD signal, and "stretch" the image to 16x9 causing distortion. Your TV locks into full mode for any hd signal, and ESPN passes the signal off as HD, so you aree stuck in full mode for a non-HD signal. Damn ESPN.

I believe all digital cable or satellite comes in at 480i. The "digital" refers to the sound being able to have 5.1 capability versus standard stereo sound. "Digital" also delivers a slighlty cleaner picture, but not 480p.

TV21CHIEF

02-12-04, 08:55 AM

Originally posted by m_nieft
.....I believe all digital cable or satellite comes in at 480i. The "digital" refers to the sound being able to have 5.1 capability versus standard stereo sound. "Digital" also delivers a slighlty cleaner picture, but not 480p.

Digital means the entire signal, video and audio, is sent down the cable or satellite as bits and bytes. For instance, if you took the cable off the input of your cable box and put it on the F-connector on your TV, you would see all the analog channels not scrambled. The analog tuner in the TV could not decode the digital channels. Everything that is NOT HD is 480i, whether it's digital or not. The exception is if you have a HD STB that upconverts those channels to 480P, 720P, or 1080i.

LarryJoe

02-12-04, 09:17 AM

Originally posted by TV21CHIEF
Digital means the entire signal, video and audio, is sent down the cable or satellite as bits and bytes. For instance, if you took the cable off the input of your cable box and put it on the F-connector on your TV, you would see all the analog channels not scrambled. The analog tuner in the TV could not decode the digital channels. Everything that is NOT HD is 480i, whether it's digital or not. The exception is if you have a HD STB that upconverts those channels to 480P, 720P, or 1080i.

Are you saying the digital cable signal 100% bits and bytes? If so, how can a tv's tuner decode the basic cable then? Also, why does the PQ look better going straight into the TV vs. through the cable box? There has always been a certain hype around digital cable in terms of PQ, which really is not true. The advantages of digital cable are the ability to push 500, mostly useless, channels to your home.

Lastly, and with all due respect, not trying to piss you off, I assume your disclaimer in your signature is legally required because you reference your title and employer above it. Why even put such a signature on a public forum?

AbMagFab

02-12-04, 09:25 AM

Digital cable means the channels that are digital are being encoded using MPEG-2 (or other similar digital encoding methods). Your TV can not receive or display the digital cable channels without a digital cable decoder (usually an external box, but with the new standards some TV's will be coming out with built-in digital cable decoders).

Cable companies today are mixing the older analog signals with the newer digital signals *on the same cable*. So if you plug the cable into your TV direcltly, you're only seeing the analog channels. If you use a digital cable box, you'll see a mix of analog and digital channels.

As you might imagine, this takes a ton of bandwidth, and cable companies are near the edge of what they can send over a single coax cable. So they compress the digital signals more, and try to convert everyone to digital cable so they can reuse the bandwidth being consumed by the older analog channels.

beatgaffler

02-12-04, 11:20 AM

Can anyone verify the life of the GWIII lamp? I have the 50" model on order but I may reconsider if I have to change a $250 bulb every other year. I've heard everything from 1500 hours, to 8000. 8000 would be nice.

I NEVER thought I'd spend 3k for a TV but that unbelievable display got me hooked.

m_nieft

02-12-04, 11:39 AM

Digital means the entire signal, video and audio, is sent down the cable or satellite as bits and bytes. For instance, if you took the cable off the input of your cable box and put it on the F-connector on your TV, you would see all the analog channels not scrambled. The analog tuner in the TV could not decode the digital channels. Everything that is NOT HD is 480i, whether it's digital or not. The exception is if you have a HD STB that upconverts those channels to 480P, 720P, or 1080i.

Thanks for the clarification. I knew I was wrong in some capacity.

The lamp bulb life in a GWIII is 6000-8000 hours. At 3 hours of tv watching per day, thats 7-8 years of life.

bsgoren

02-12-04, 11:44 AM

Speaking of GWIII lamps...not that I've had any problems with my 60WE610 (no buzzing or lamp failure since I've had it for almost 4 months now), but in the past few weeks, my wife and I heard a loud "pop" 3 separate times (about 1 x week that we've noticed) from the tv. Nothing went out and there was no change to the picture thank God, but nonetheless, it was so loud, it actually startled us. The tv still starts right up and works just as good now as it did on day 1.

Anyone heard this pop before and what could it be? Thank you.

s2silber

02-12-04, 11:56 AM

Maybe it's from your STB?

bryansj

02-12-04, 12:18 PM

AbMagFab

02-12-04, 12:31 PM

How about the direct codes for the zoom type (rather than cycling through them)?

bsgoren

02-12-04, 12:35 PM

Originally posted by s2silber
Maybe it's from your STB?

Thanks, but no, it's definitely from my GWIII while it's on. MY Sony HD-200 STB is in a different location. Again, it does not seem to affect anything and hopefully never will but I was curious as to it's cause and if anyone else has heard this loud pop before. Thank you.

aydu

02-12-04, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by bsgoren
Thanks, but no, it's definitely from my GWIII while it's on. MY Sony HD-200 STB is in a different location. Again, it does not seem to affect anything and hopefully never will but I was curious as to it's cause and if anyone else has heard this loud pop before. Thank you.

I have not had any loud pops with my GWIII, buy I'd guess that it's heat related.

AbMagFab

02-12-04, 02:11 PM

When I open a can of pop, it's sometimes loud and sometimes startles my wife... does that count?

TiVo'Brien

02-12-04, 05:04 PM

Originally posted by m_nieft
..........now I have 4 remotes, sound runs through the tuner, video through the tv, and wife is not happy that it is even more complicated. Got down to 3 remotes by controlling the DVD with the tuner remote, have to work on getting her used to working the tv. Sometimes its just plain overload. Sounds like you're ready for an MX-500 (http://www.bluedo.com/bluedocgi/product.cgi?model=MX-500)

JimP

02-12-04, 05:28 PM

Hey guys, my girlfriend can work the MX700. ...and I'm not totally sure that's a good thing.

vandammeman

02-12-04, 07:15 PM

well it's been a month since my first buzz fix, and it's back! this time the set would not turn off, screen went dark, red light came on, but the fan was still running, and the lamp was on! i could see it thru the fan vent! since i did not want to do any damage, i left it on all night. when i got up it was still running. finally i had to unplug then plug back in very rapidly, then repowerd to get the fan running again (it was unplugged for a second). after that i was able to shut down normally. the next time i tried to turn it on - BUZZZZZZ - and no light! the next day i pushed the power button, and it Worked fine, very weird and VERY SCARY! called sony back and got some duffus who knows nothing about replacing the actual ballast board that has been discussed here. then called the local tech that sony contracts for service in my area (they actually have a very good reputation) and he said he has not heard of the board replacement either! where are you guys getting the info on this, because sony doesn't seem to know about this. funny thing is I LOVE THIS TV! the picture is amazing! they just need to get this buzz, no ignite situation under control! ISHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A PANASONIC TV, THEY NEVER BREAK.

bsgoren

02-12-04, 07:29 PM

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by m_nieft
..........now I have 4 remotes, sound runs through the tuner, video through the tv, and wife is not happy that it is even more complicated. Got down to 3 remotes by controlling the DVD with the tuner remote, have to work on getting her used to working the tv. Sometimes its just plain overload.

Originally posted by TiVo'Brien
Sounds like you're ready for an MX-500 (http://www.bluedo.com/bluedocgi/product.cgi?model=MX-500)

Get the Harmony Remote...it's awesome, very easy to set up (online!! - no complicated macros) and use, controls EVERYTHING (and changes the inputs on your receiver automatically and controls the sound with your receiver or tv - whichever you prefer), and no complicated macros! I used to have the Sony RM-3000...what a ridiculous brick that didn't work anyway. Wait til you try the Harmony remote...

www.harmonyremote.com

...and no, I do not work for them, but I am a very satisfied customer and my WAF is through the roof on the Harmony Remote and our GWIII! :D

RockScaler

02-13-04, 02:29 PM

Originally posted by boozcruz33
I have tried searching this thread, but it is rather long... so please excuse me if this has been asked before.

Should I have to set my 42" GWIII to ZOOM mode to watch a widescreen DVD? I realize that some black bars may occur due to different aspect ratios, but that is not what I am experiencing. If I have the TV set to NORMAL, the picture only shows up in a very small 16x9 rectangle in the middle of the screen and there are fairly large black bars on the top and bottom.

The DVD player is a Sony DVPNS725P. I made sure to set the DVD video settings to 16x9, but I still have this problem. The weird part is that the DVD menu fills the entire screen.

I don't know if this means anything, but I currently have the DVD player connected to the TV via composite cables. I am going to pick up some component cables later today, but I wasn't sure if this could have anything to do with it.

Thanks in advance for your help!

If the menu fills the screen but the movie does not you probably are NOT watching an true Anamorphic Widescreen DVD. That happened to me when a neighbor brought over a "Fullscreen" version of LOTR. I used partial zoom to fill the screen but I was bummed.

It sounds like you were viewing an older Letterbox widescreen DVD where the black bars are built in giving you the centered box.

- Rock

RockScaler

02-13-04, 02:49 PM

Originally posted by kysbraaf
Well, got the TV all hooked up with a direct signal from satellite to TV using S-Vid and red/white cables since the DISH box I currently have does not have component or DVI outputs. I tried running the red/white cables from the sat. receiver to dvd/vcr combo, and then from dvd/vcr out to tv; however, I was unable to get sound or picture from the vcr/dvd without using a coax from the "out to TV" on the vcr combo to the "VHF/UHF" port on the TV. Anyway, that gave me a direct connect for the satellite source and a decent picture for the DVD/ VCR on a separate input. Now, the problem is that after the TV has been on for a while, I lose the picture and sound on the direct connection, although the channel and program information still appears on the screen when flipping through channels. If I turn everything off for a while, the problem is fixed, although when I first turn the TV back on, the message that the receiver is "acquiring signal" comes on the screen and I have to wait for the receiver to go through its paces before the picture and sound kick in. Since I have the TV and satellite receiver on a UPS, there is no possibility that there was any power loss when everything was turned off. The DISH person suggested that I try plugging the TV and the receiver into different outlets or outlets on different circuits on the theory that the "TV's voltage is overwhelming the receiver" and that they "are slaving off each other" (whatever that means) and see if the problem continues. I wondered if there are any other thoughts re: this perplexing issue.

Kysbrasf:

I would suspect your DISH receiver as the problem. Dish receivers are meant to be always "plugged in" to keep the satallite signal locked in and to receive software updates overnight via satellite. A software update might solve your problem.

["TV's voltage is overwhelming the receiver" and that they "are slaving off each other" ]
That is pure CSR BS! Bad house wiring could cause a voltage drop problem but that shouldn't cause the symptoms you have.

You should get a new HD receiver as soon as possible. True HD on this set is amazing.

- Rock

DaveDubya

02-13-04, 04:40 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bsgoren
Speaking of GWIII lamps...not that I've had any problems with my 60WE610 (no buzzing or lamp failure since I've had it for almost 4 months now), but in the past few weeks, my wife and I heard a loud "pop" 3 separate times (about 1 x week that we've noticed) from the tv. Nothing went out and there was no change to the picture thank God, but nonetheless, it was so loud, it actually startled us. The tv still starts right up and works just as good now as it did on day 1.

Anyone heard this pop before and what could it be? Thank you. [
/QUOTE]

I have had a similar experience with my older Sony crt set. On occasion a loud pop with no other symptom. It turned out to be the plastic cabinet expanding with the heat buildup. The set was in a media cabinet, but there was an opening in the back for ventilation. I never found it hot, but enough to cause the plastic to give a little. The new GWIII is all out in the open.

Dave

dales95

02-13-04, 05:45 PM

My GWIII 50" makes the same popping noise. I figure it's the case reacting to heat expansion. I, too, had a Sony CRT that did the same thing. A small annoyance but nothing to worry about.

opuscat

02-13-04, 06:36 PM

I got a new Digital box but the component cables leave they gave me leave alot to be desired. Monster Cables own the market to be sure ... Now my question goes along the lines of wound strands vs. solid copper wire? Which should be better for moving video signal? I ask 'cause RadioShack have those EvolutionII's that appear to be solid copper core and they're not very expensive really. Perhaps the wrong forum for this and I'll search around some others but thought I'd send this out to fellow GWIII owners here.

Saldisk

02-13-04, 07:41 PM

Anybody know of Denon codes that would work with 50''GWIII remote control for dvd?

-Saldisk

bsgoren

02-13-04, 08:16 PM

Originally posted by DaveDubya
[QUOTE]Originally posted by bsgoren
Speaking of GWIII lamps...not that I've had any problems with my 60WE610 (no buzzing or lamp failure since I've had it for almost 4 months now), but in the past few weeks, my wife and I heard a loud "pop" 3 separate times (about 1 x week that we've noticed) from the tv. Nothing went out and there was no change to the picture thank God, but nonetheless, it was so loud, it actually startled us. The tv still starts right up and works just as good now as it did on day 1.

Anyone heard this pop before and what could it be? Thank you. [
/QUOTE]

I have had a similar experience with my older Sony crt set. On occasion a loud pop with no other symptom. It turned out to be the plastic cabinet expanding with the heat buildup. The set was in a media cabinet, but there was an opening in the back for ventilation. I never found it hot, but enough to cause the plastic to give a little. The new GWIII is all out in the open.

Dave

Originally posted by dales95 My GWIII 50" makes the same popping noise. I figure it's the case reacting to heat expansion. I, too, had a Sony CRT that did the same thing. A small annoyance but nothing to worry about. [/B]

Thank you. I figured that it was probably something like that, especially since my GWIII is in a built-in entertainment ctr, although it sits on it's own GW1 stand and should have enough ventilation needed. Thanks again.

cat3600

02-14-04, 10:02 AM

50" model
Sept 03 build

Sony tech finally came today after 13 days of TV not working. My bulb had completely died infact it had made a pop sound and shutoff. Checked bulb found it broken in bits. The glass & filament was gone, however the outer casing of the bulb was intact!

Tech replaced bulb (put Osram), soldered resistor to board and also replaced the power module board. He said all 3 of these changes need to be done to completely fix the problem.

However there is another issue I have since I bought the TV.....there is a green tint at the edges on a black background. Tech said somebody else has to come out to look at this problem. Basically my screen does not show a consistant black background but has this green tint at the edges.

Anybody else has this green tint issue & any what is the solution to fix it???
Please I need help with this problem.

ANYBODY, what is the solution to this color uniformity problem??????

Thanks.

cat3600

02-14-04, 10:02 AM

mike1650

02-14-04, 03:22 PM

I am trying to get my GW42 into a corner in my small room. The standard stand is rectangular and it would stick out too much into the room. Did anyone else come up with something that might work for a corner install where the stand profiles more of a clipped corner design where it would fit more into the corner?

AbMagFab

02-14-04, 04:24 PM

I built my own stand out of birch ply and maple, for exactly the reason you describe. It's 48" wide at the front, and 36" wide at the back, with 45 degree angle cuts 6" from the back (basically following the GWIII 50" base shape). It's about 17" high, which gives me enough room for 5-6 components on the shelves underneath, and keeps the TV at a good viewing height.

s2silber

02-14-04, 05:31 PM

Got a new Osram bulb today.:) I haven't experienced the infamous buzz/lamp failure, but....when I got my January build set home I had opened it up and noticed that the glass-sided housing of the Philips fixture had a crack.:( So, even though it's been firing up properly for the two weeks I've had the TV, I called Sony about this defect and they okayed a technician visit and new lamp on the basis of the cracked housing.
I told the local authorized technician that I'd accept nothing but an Osram lamp as replacement. He then called his Sony contact and they shipped him a fresh supply of Osrams.
It seems that while Sony's been installing Philips bulbs on the assembly line as recently as my date of production (Jan. 23), they're now providing Osrams for replacements. My advise for anyone scheduling a service call with a local, authorized facility is to make sure to DEMAND an Osram lamp. Many of them have a stock supply of Philips lamps which they may innocently bring over unless instructed otherwise. I had also previously confirmed with the plant that chugged out my particular set (SN 9122XX) that the other "fixes" had already been applied on the assembly line. I still haven't been able to determine from this thread, or the GWIII "buzz" thread, whether Osrams are now going into any of these TVs right on the assembly line. Does anyone have a February 2004 build unit? If so, could you check inside and report what kind of lamp it's got?

Anyway, even though I've now got an Osram lamp, a set that supposedly has all possible fixes applied and that hasn't failed to fire up yet, I still get a knot in my stomach every time I turn it on for fear it won't light. Sony should send us all checks for pain and suffering.:p

studranger

02-14-04, 05:50 PM

Originally posted by m_nieft
S2 has it right. Full mode for DVD's. on 2:35:1 DVD's you will get small black lines at the top and bottom of the picture. See the sticky thread for that. They shouldn't be that bothersome though. I suggest component cables instead of composite cables for your DVD. Set the GWIII to cinemotion in the user manual for the 3:2 correction. mneift i dont know about all this talk about the settings for dvds but if you have the 42 in lcd sony and you set the cable box at 1080i which is the proper setting,the modes wont work-also at 720p they dont work-mines set at 1080i and the dvd player at 16x9 and the modes(zoom.wide etc-dont work--correct me if im wrong-at other settings the modes will work--but at a cost=stretched pics-the hd signal has to be stretched to fill the screen--totally distorting the picture and unacceptable, to me anyway-PS vcr tapes will work with the modes-regardless the setting

Saldisk

02-14-04, 06:01 PM

mwelicka

02-15-04, 10:23 AM

Originally posted by aydu
Best SD presentation can usually be had by running the coax direct from the wall to the set. You can then run the coax out to the decoder box for HD or digital channels that need the box for processing.

So, sometimes it is not the connection type, but the directness of the signal path. Less processing generally gives better PQ.

I have an SA 3250HD STB and the 60WE610. When I try this, hooking the coax up to the vhf/uhf port on the back of the TV and then out from the to Converter port to the STB and then from the STB back to the TV through Component cables I get a great picture on aux input but the only thing I can get from the STB input is a black screen but I can see the program guide.

Do I not have enough signal strength to get through to the STB or am I doing something wrong?

Thank in advance.
Mel

jrenner

02-15-04, 11:26 AM

Originally posted by mwelicka
I have an SA 3250HD STB and the 60WE610. When I try this, hooking the coax up to the vhf/uhf port on the back of the TV and then out from the to Converter port to the STB and then from the STB back to the TV through Component cables I get a great picture on aux input but the only thing I can get from the STB input is a black screen but I can see the program guide.

Do I not have enough signal strength to get through to the STB or am I doing something wrong?

I had the same problem. Couldn't get the TO CONVERTER on the TV to provide a strong enough signal for the SA3250 (or so it seems). So I ended up splitting the COAX and going to the TV and STB directly.

graphicguy

02-15-04, 12:06 PM

Man....I'm upset!

I just got my 60" tweaked and looking phenominal after two weeks of ownership. Last night I sat down to watch a couple of movies and noticed when I turned the TV off, the screen looked like it didn't shut down totally, even though the "red light" showed it was turned off.

This a.m., the screen still looked like it was "glowing" (dull grey) and the red light was showing. Tried to turn the TV on and all I got was the flashing green light (no pop or sizzle like the ones with earlier problems).

Any ideas before I to do battle with the retailer (HH GREGG) and their ten day return policy?

mike1650

02-15-04, 02:22 PM

I'm watching the 500 right now on my brand new (yesterday) 42" and this thing is really having a hard time keeping up with the motion. It had been mentioned that these had a harder time keeping up than the DLP but this is ridicuous, no offense but is is everyone with one of these of perfect vision?

TheBobGoat

02-15-04, 02:23 PM

graphic. i know everytime you turn it off -- it doesnt go 'black' for about 5-10 seconds, and then the fan runs for 2 mins, then shuts off

just call sony and see if you can get a new bulb

JimP

02-15-04, 02:40 PM

graphicguy

Unplug it, wait a couple of minutes and then plug it back in. It sounds like it may be trying to relight the bulb without enough cooldown time.

vic4news

02-15-04, 02:45 PM

dcfox

02-15-04, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by mike1650
I'm watching the 500 right now on my brand new (yesterday) 42" and this thing is really having a hard time keeping up with the motion. It had been mentioned that these had a harder time keeping up than the DLP but this is ridicuous, no offense but is is everyone with one of these of perfect vision?

I am watching it on the same set you are, taking a break now as I get bored in the middle of it. Looks great on my set, I see no problem keeping up, The cars are crisp. The background is a little blurred but thats the same way it is on regular TV since the camera is focusing on the cars. Are you watching it in HDTV ? Its beautiful. When Martin blew his engine I thought the smoke was coming into the room on a replay.

marvincbr

02-15-04, 03:03 PM

I'm also watchin it right now (lap 67) although on the 60". No problems here and I'm just using the basic cable input directly to the tv. Looks pretty darn good to me, just jealous that I don't have HD yet.

opuscat

02-15-04, 03:04 PM

I concur, watching the 500 right now, crystal clear in HDTV ... no clue on analog as haven't switched it over to see. Mike, whatta ya got for a source? If no HDTV and your watching it on an analog station try feeding the tv directly from the wall and skip any digital box you may have (most including me split the cable and run one to the digital box and one direct to the tv instead). If you're not watching it on HDTV .... then why the heck not :p

mike1650

02-15-04, 03:12 PM

Originally posted by dcfox
I am watching it on the same set you are, taking a break now as I get bored in the middle of it. Looks great on my set, I see no problem keeping up, The cars are crisp. The background is a little blurred but thats the same way it is on regular TV since the camera is focusing on the cars. Are you watching it in HDTV ? Its beautiful. When Martin blew his engine I thought the smoke was coming into the room on a replay.

I'm watching HDTV according to my 351 info button. It is OTA.
The slow moving stuff is full screen crystal clear, like 3d, fast motion is bad. Using the DVI connection beteen 351 and GW, Monster yet.

dcfox

02-15-04, 03:26 PM

mike1650, There is a lot of switching between HD and SD on this race with the many different cameras used so this race might not be the best way to judge and new HDTV. I have seen some good and bad shots. Watch some other HD programing to decide. This is a great TV even with its needed fixes for some people.
Anyway, amazing how Waltrip walked away from that wreck and the in car camera still worked showing the dirt still in the car and that was a SD shot.

JeffNebraska

02-16-04, 01:42 PM

Hello again.

I'm yet to receive a reply to a question I asked a while back.

My parents 60we610 is locking into "full" mode when they play widescreen DVDs. Their DVD player is a 480p Toshiba, connected through the component ins on Video 6. Shouldn't there be an option to watch DVDs in "Normal" (i.e., with black bars on the top and bottom for 2.35:1 DVDs)? When they hit play any widescreen DVD, the tv jumps to full mode and the Wide button does nothing, as if they were watching an HD source.

Can someone else confirm that this doesn't happen on their GW III? Does anyone have any theories at all as to what could cause this?

flyboy909

02-16-04, 01:51 PM

Yes, mine locks in 'full' mode with cable HD widescreen material. On SD channels the 'wide' adjustment is active. I had a panny pT-40LC12 before this and it did the same thing.

cdnscg

02-16-04, 02:16 PM

JeffNebraska,

Make sure the dvd player is programed to play on a 16:9 tv not a 4:3.
If this is done, and you are still having trouble, try going into the tv's set up and manually change the picture settings.

I have the 60xbr, and the full setting is the correct aspect ratio when viewing dvd's. ie: a 235 aspect ratio still has black bars on the top and bottom, but note a 178 ratio wide screen image will fill the screen completely.

JeffNebraska

02-17-04, 01:08 AM

cdnscg - What do you mean by "change the picture settings?" Is there a spot in the menu to select the Wide mode and is there any reason to think that would function differently than the dedicated remote button? Was there some other setting you were thinking of?

flyboy - I'm aware that the tv locks on HD material and that's not what I'm concerned about (that issue is noted in the user's manual). It's the locking on widescreen DVDs, which are not HD, that has me confused.

m_nieft

02-17-04, 08:47 AM

Why would you not want to watch widescreen DVD's in full mode? Who cares if its locked. If you watch a widescreen DVD in normal mode, why did you buy an expensive 16x9 HDTV?

garysm99

02-17-04, 11:11 AM

I have a 50WE610 for about 2 months and I am very happy with the purchase. I have seen reference in this thread to Tweak file for this type of monitor. Can someone point me to the location of this file as I have not bee able to locate. Thanks

cdnscg

02-17-04, 11:20 AM

jeffNebraska,

I trust you checked the dvd player. As for the tv settings, I do not know if this would work any differently than the dedicated button, but it maybe worth checking. Note I have the 60xbr not the we, but the manuals should be similar. Check your manual for information listed under 'using the screen menu', this may help. If not, I would inquire with the store the tv was purchased at for more guidance.

m_nieft,

One would want the tv to work as it should, with the use of all the screen modes. For example, if you are watching a non-anamorphic dvd, you could put the screen setting to zoom, and the dvd image would then fill the screen properly. On full mode, a non-anamorphic image is strethed on each side.

umr

02-17-04, 11:29 AM

Originally posted by garysm99
I have a 50WE610 for about 2 months and I am very happy with the purchase. I have seen reference in this thread to Tweak file for this type of monitor. Can someone point me to the location of this file as I have not bee able to locate. Thanks

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875

JimP

02-17-04, 11:30 AM

Garysm99
Here's the tweaks thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

JeffNebraska
You want the wide mode to change to full on widescreen DVDs. That's the way its suppose to work. If it's stretching the picture, then you are probably playing DVDs with the aspect ratio on the DVD player set to 4:3

JeffNebraska

02-17-04, 12:37 PM

JimP - Sorry if my precise question is difficult to understand.

The DVD player is set for a 16x9 TV and if it's stretching the picture, it's very subtle, and to my eye undetectable. So that's not the issue.

My ONLY concern is whether the TV should be locking into Full mode on widescreen DVDs. Others here seem to be retaining the ability to use their Wide modes, and my set is not. I'm not sure if I've tested it yet with a 2.35:1 DVD, but if it locked into Full mode on that, I would get some distortion, right?

Maybe it only locks into Full mode on 1.85:1 DVDs, which don't require any stretching and would never be used at another mode. I'd have to test that hypothesis later, but no one here is reporting a Full mode lock on any DVDs, so my set doesn't seem to be working right.

Does that clarify my question?

aydu

02-17-04, 12:39 PM

I'm going to guess that feeding the GWIII a progressive scan signal locks the set to full.

I have a non progressive scan DVD player and can adjust the picture size by using the remote. For anamorphic DVDs it does default to full mode, but can be changed. For non anamorphic DVDs I believe the set defaults to whatever the 4:3 default setting is. You can still toggle through the wide screen settings.

Might try turning off the progressive scan on the DVD player and see if the other modes become available via the remote.

Bill Ball

02-17-04, 01:03 PM

Originally posted by mike1650
I am trying to get my GW42 into a corner in my small room. The standard stand is rectangular and it would stick out too much into the room. Did anyone else come up with something that might work for a corner install where the stand profiles more of a clipped corner design where it would fit more into the corner?

Ikea has a corner stand that worked for me. It's either a bare wood or sorta off-white/tan for $99. Ugly color. I repainted it matt black. Works well for my 42" Panny plasma, so should work for you.
http://www.billsworkshop.com/stand/stand01_2.jpg
http://www.billsworkshop.com/stand/stand02_2.jpg

Here's a link to the item at Ikea.
http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&productId=11402&langId=-1&parentCats=10104*10174

Bill

ggw2000

02-17-04, 01:51 PM

I'm thinking about ordering a 60"GWIII this week (took wife to look at them yesterday) and HD is great! I'm coming from a 57" Toshiba ISF calibrated RPTV. ??? A few pages ago, someone asked about being able to set user settings (color, contrast, etc.) independently for each input ie DVI,Component,S-video. My Tosh works this way. The persons questions was not answered as far as I can see. Would someone please post the answer because I can see this as a possible real problem.. Thanks, Gerry

JimP

02-17-04, 02:20 PM

JeffNebraska

Sorry for not answering your question directly. Had blood drawn this morning and passed out.

So, using a 60" GWIII on component input with a Denon 2900 set to output progressive at 16:9, the GWIII retains the ability to change stretch modes. I ran "Lord of the Rings, Fellowship of the Ring" through full, wide zoom, zoom, etc.

For some reason, it seems that another DVD player I had that I gave away when I got the Denon would lock onto "full" and wouldn't let me switch to other stretch modes.

JeffNebraska

02-17-04, 02:25 PM

Interesting. So the Toshiba 4800 is probably the culprit.

I'll need to double check a 2.35 DVD to see if it's also stuck in full.

Thanks.

Buckwheat

02-17-04, 02:34 PM

Hi ggw2000,

Nope. I still bought it anyway. Non-buzzing unit, so far!!! I just setup the picture for my cable box (via DVI) and tweek it for DVDs, etc... I may program my remote to automatically tweek the settings when imputs are changed (MX-700). But the macro could be too much of a pain.

JimP

02-17-04, 02:41 PM

Buckwheat

Interesting idea about programming the MX700 to tweak the settings based on input.

Only problem I see is without discrete codes for things like grayscale and color decoder, if the remote were to go through a macro and miss the receiver on the TV, then all your settings would be off from there on .

Buckwheat

02-17-04, 02:51 PM

Hi JimP,

Really, it is just one of the many problems (e.g. long macros, no codes, royal pain to program, etc...). I still want a "fix TV" button program to get me back to my "default settings". Maybe someday!!!

ggw2000

02-17-04, 02:52 PM

Buckwheat, thanks for the quick response, not exactly what I would have liked to hear tho;) . With the differences between HD on component/DVI, SD on S-video, DVD on component this just does not make common sense to me:confused: . Is everyone just going in and changing settings whenever they are changing the source material or is it pretty close across all inputs? Thanks again, Gerry

vandammeman

02-17-04, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Interesting. So the Toshiba 4800 is probably the culprit.

I'll need to double check a 2.35 DVD to see if it's also stuck in full.

Thanks. Hey jeff check your private messages, i sent an answer for your question yesterday, no you cannot use anything but full if it is a 480p, 720p, or a 1080i input, only 480i allows aspect control, also you will actually get a better picture if you use the 480i and the 3:2 pulldown with the DRC turned all the way up,

vandammeman

02-17-04, 05:23 PM

Originally posted by ggw2000
I'm thinking about ordering a 60"GWIII this week (took wife to look at them yesterday) and HD is great! I'm coming from a 57" Toshiba ISF calibrated RPTV. ??? A few pages ago, someone asked about being able to set user settings (color, contrast, etc.) independently for each input ie DVI,Component,S-video. My Tosh works this way. The persons questions was not answered as far as I can see. Would someone please post the answer because I can see this as a possible real problem.. Thanks, Gerry no you can't individually set it for each input from the user menu, but it can be done in the service menu. but beware, this is a lengthy process, and you could really mess up if you make a mistake, you can however set or customize 3 different picture modes and set that mode for each input , for example, my SD satellite feed is kind of dark so i have that input set for vivid, my HD feed is set for standard, etc. sometimes certain movies in hd are a little dark so i set it for vivid, so on, so forth. i do have to say these sets are very consistent from source to source, so it may not be as big an issue as you think, other than maybe going from standard to vivid from time to time, it really has not been an issue. the colors are very, very consistent from source to source, it only seems that sometimes the contrast and brightness very a little, but again not that often.

ggw2000

02-17-04, 06:42 PM

Originally posted by vandammeman
no you can't individually set it for each input from the user menu, but it can be done in the service menu. but beware, this is a lengthy process, and you could really mess up if you make a mistake, you can however set or customize 3 different picture modes and set that mode for each input , for example, my SD satellite feed is kind of dark so i have that input set for vivid, my HD feed is set for standard, etc. sometimes certain movies in hd are a little dark so i set it for vivid, so on, so forth. i do have to say these sets are very consistent from source to source, so it may not be as big an issue as you think, other than maybe going from standard to vivid from time to time, it really has not been an issue. the colors are very, very consistent from source to source, it only seems that sometimes the contrast and brightness very a little, but again not that often.

Vandamme....., If I understand what you are saying, you can set adjustments for each that are available (normal, vivid, the other one) and it will retain those settings. Then you just switch between them depending on the source?? Gerry

JeffNebraska

02-17-04, 07:26 PM

ggw2000 - it's even a little better than that. The TV remembers which picture mode you were last on for a particular source and returns to that one automatically when you switch.

I use Vivid for HD and DVD, and Standard for VHS and SD. On Standard, the sharpness is turned up, which helps those lower quality signals appear sharper (even though they aren't sharp).

Of course, Vivid, Standard and Pro are all fully customizable, so the settings they're on out of the box are just suggestions to improve poorer images.

JimP

02-17-04, 07:55 PM

Not exactly.

Vivid has more edge enhancements than Standard. Pro has non.

Although from a technical standpoint, its recommended to use Pro, use the one that you like the best. I prefer vivid.

ggw2000

02-17-04, 08:08 PM

Originally posted by JimP
Not exactly.

Vivid has more edge enhancements than Standard. Pro has non.

Although from a technical standpoint, its recommended to use Pro, use the one that you like the best. I prefer vivid.

Speaking of PRO, I seen this referenced a number of times, what is PRO? Is it a mode like vivid and standard? What's different about it? Thanks, Gerry

old_muggle

02-17-04, 11:09 PM

PRO is the mode between Standard and Vivid. It seems to have better color and better black levels (especially after umr's tweaks).

AbMagFab

02-17-04, 11:44 PM

Anyone know if there's some sort of tilt compensation for the GWIII? I have the 50", and it looks like the image is slightly tilted to the left. In HD and SD, if there's a bar on the top or bottom, it's slightly lower on the left than on the right.

Thanks!

JimP

02-18-04, 12:35 AM

Originally posted by AbMagFab
Anyone know if there's some sort of tilt compensation for the GWIII? I have the 50", and it looks like the image is slightly tilted to the left. In HD and SD, if there's a bar on the top or bottom, it's slightly lower on the left than on the right.

Thanks!

Slightly tilt your head in the........ just kidding..

There is no adjustments to compensate for this tilt.

Depending on the severaty of the tilt, some have chosen to live with it while others have returned the set for another one.

If the tilt is minor and you don't have many if any noticable bad pixels, I'd live with it. There is no guarantee that the next set won't have something more significant wrong with it.

exLabDriver

02-18-04, 02:13 AM

AbMagFab:

I had the same left side down tilt on my GWII (this is not uncommon). My techs shimmed up one side of the optical block as there are no adjustments, either mechanical nor in the SM, to rotate the picture.

It was an unorthodox fix that I agreed to have done as there were no other problems with my set. Looks just fine now.

AbMagFab

02-18-04, 08:05 AM

Yeah, it's really only noticable when there's something on the screen with a horizontal line on the top or bottom. And it's kind of visible when watching something in HD that's being sent in 4x3 mode, the left mask bar looks a little skewed.

But the picture is perfect, so I guess I'll just leave it alone.

Buckwheat

02-18-04, 08:17 AM

I didn't realize that the settings could be tweeked per input in the service menu (I really haven't had time to look into advanced tweeking). Sorry if I misled anyone. I still think that with 7 inputs they should make each input customizable. I also didn't realize that the picture mode "followed" the input setting. I only use DVI and one of the component inputs on my set. Thanks for the info.

Saldisk

02-19-04, 12:17 AM

While watching fox, american idol, I made the mistake of comparing my old Sony 53" that was ISF'd to my gwIII. After the shrill reality hit, here is the the 2 word assessment for all to contemplate how inaccurate the color is. BTW, I notice this mostly on SD tv and SD sat. Oh...the 2 words are GOLD & ORANGE. In other words, flesh tones and hair highlites have a nasty yellowish gold appearance and poor red, again the yellow in the picture turns red to orange.
Now that I scored on the great HDTV equipment offer from DIRECTV, I'll assess next week after the installation. BTW, thats $99 for hdtv receiver, ota antenna, installation, move old box to another room, free showtime and $2 hbo for 6 months. Only catch...must have been a subscriber for at least 2 years.

-Saldisk

JimP

02-19-04, 03:24 AM

Saldisk
Sounds like one of your sets is way off. Originally I wrote that you need to have your GWIII readjusted, but after giving it more thought, I realized that maybe its your other Sony that may be off. How long ago was each set calibrated??

netexplode

02-19-04, 12:17 PM

Hello experts,

After a long research, I finally pulled the trigger and bought GWIII 42" from BestBuy.
It is scheduled for delivery this Saturday and I was wondering if some of you could tell me what to look for before I sign the delivery form.

Thanks in advance.

graphicguy

02-19-04, 04:29 PM

While I've got teh GWIII 60", I would think this would apply to the 42".

Make sure the set is warmed up (if it's cold in your 'burg), before you turn it on for the first time. Let it do some "break-in". I've had mine for almost 3 weeks and the picture is getting better and better the more hours I put on it.

Invest in either AVIA or Digital Video Essentials. Either of these two disks will make a world of difference in the way your picture looks after tweaking. Barring those two, use the THX set up from any of the disks you have that include video THX set up.

m_nieft

02-19-04, 05:29 PM

not much to look for when you first get it. Make sure it isn't damaged physically. Once you get it set up, any problems will jump out at you. NEVER EVER turn the tv off and right back on. Always give your lamp time to cool down before powering back up.

jgman

02-19-04, 06:20 PM

I recently purchased a 42" Sony LCD. I am using it with a DTV-Tivo. The picture is amazing. I am wondering how much improvement I would see in picture quality with an HD signal and whether a HD TIVO is worth the investment. Any thoughts? Thanks

tuffguysf

02-19-04, 06:27 PM

when HD TiVo comes out, I think it would be a great investment. Tivo on the GWIII is pretty crappy, even at BEST quality, though through this site I found some great tweaks to the Standard setting that made the TiVo look pretty good.

Saldisk

02-19-04, 07:24 PM

Originally posted by JimP
Saldisk
Sounds like one of your sets is way off. Originally I wrote that you need to have your GWIII readjusted, but after giving it more thought, I realized that maybe its your other Sony that may be off. How long ago was each set calibrated??

Jim,
You're right Jim, unfortunately its the GWIII. Since the sammy looked so bad on store shelves vs the sony that I hoped I could get away without calibration or at least wait until after tax time. After viewing my old Sony that most likely is sitting at 6000 kelvin at this point, (isf'd 30 months ago)the gold and orange reds are becoming obsessively disturbing. I'm watching the new Clooney-ZetaJones movie and well, I found myself counting my spare change to see how close to $400 I have. Wasn't any since the HDTV upgrade deal from directv for $99. I know my free installation will cost me $200 after Im done leading the installer around the house doing xtra stuff.
-Saldisk

JimP

02-19-04, 09:18 PM

Saldisk

Have you put up a grayscale from AVIA, DVE, or THX optimizer to see if its also exhibits a yellow color shift?? If so, is it on the lighter squares or the darker squares.

Saldisk

02-20-04, 04:01 PM

No Jim,
Since I'm uneasy about messing with SM and turning on and off tv anymore than I have to, I am not aware that UM coupled with AVIA type software would help with this needed correction. You do see on your TV what I'm complaining about, don't you?
-Saldisk

JimP

02-20-04, 05:02 PM

Originally posted by Saldisk
No Jim,
Since I'm uneasy about messing with SM and turning on and off tv anymore than I have to, I am not aware that UM coupled with AVIA type software would help with this needed correction. You do see on your TV what I'm complaining about, don't you?
-Saldisk

I know of what you speak. Any set can be made to look bad and most can be adjusted to look good.

MrKool

02-23-04, 05:47 PM

just got a call from my brother who took the delivery for me new 60" GWIII can't wait to get home and PLAY :)

Fredline

02-23-04, 06:12 PM

Finally got my 50" Friday. WOW, HD & DVD's look awesome right out of the box! :D

netexplode

02-23-04, 06:23 PM

I got my 42" this past Saturday too.
It took hours to get the setup i wanted, though i'm not 100% satisfied yet. :-)

for those who have replaytv and HD, what's the optimal setup?
for now i have use DVI for HD to TV, and svideo to replaytv to TV's component.
(also set up svideo for HD to TV and replaytv to TV ).

anyway, HD and DVD look great out of the box. I did play with some tweaking (regular menu stuff, not the service menu thing). Also ordered DVE that should be arriving here pretty soon.

Thanks all for all the hints and tips posted here. I'll need to go back and study them.

This will be the set for the next 5-10 years for me.

AbMagFab

02-23-04, 08:49 PM

In terms of setup, I have a Tivo, HD DTV box w/ DVI, DVD w/ DVI, and a PrismiQ media player.

You want the HD box to go DVI to the DVI so there's no analog conversion at all.

For the Tivo/Replay, the best you're going to get out of it is S-Video, so use that. You say above two contradictory things and one wrong thing (S-Video to component, which is wrong, and then again S-Video).

For the DVD, use the Component (3-cables for video), not composite (one yellow cable for video). I have a DVI DVD player, and I bought a DVI switch for $350 and tied it into my MX-700 remote so I can have two things feeding the DVI on the TV.

For anything else, use the best connection possible, in order from best to worst:
DVI
Component
S-Video
Composite

Also, I found, after a couple hours with DVE and Avia, that the TV is mostly set properly out of the box. On the S-Video connections, there's some minor red shift, and the sharpness should be turned off on all inputs. I like my picture a little brighter than DVE and Avia say it should be, so that's my only other bump to the TV's normal settings.

Enjoy this great TV!

JimP

02-23-04, 11:39 PM

Adding to what AbMagFab stated above, if you find that svideo is a touch dimmer(greener, etc) than component and DVI is a touch brighter, you can correct for this in the service menu in the offsets. So don't let it get you down when one setup of brightness, contrast, color and tint doesn't seem to work for all inputs.

netexplode

02-23-04, 11:52 PM

Thanks AbMagFab.

I am using component for DVD and DVI for HD. DVD player is one of the upgrade list, but i probably want to upgrade my av receiver first (i have marantz sr4000 which i like a lot for the value but lacks digital audio inputs.)

<<
You say above two contradictory things and one wrong thing (S-Video to component, which is wrong, and then again S-Video). >>

Sorry if i wasn't clear. The setup I have is STB svideo out to ReplayTV svideo input, then replaytv component out to TV's component in. In addition, I also hooked up STB's svideo to TV, and replaytv's svideo to another tv input. So basically 2 inputs are used for STB (DVI and s-video) and another 2 inputs for replaytv (component and s-video).

I sure will enjoy the TV.

AbMagFab

02-24-04, 12:00 AM

Hmm... Why do you have the STB plugged into your TV using the DVI and the S-Vid? You should only need the DVI I would think? Same with the Replay, why plug it into the S-Vid and the component (I would use just the component since that's better).

And I didn't know the Replay had component out (3 video cables), I thought it just had composite (one video cable) and S-Vid... That seems like an expensive piece of hardware in the Replay for something that can only accept S-Vid (max) as input?

sfsteve

02-24-04, 12:19 AM

This is my first post, so apologies if I am posting this to the wrong thread.

I bought my 50" GWIII two weeks ago, and am expecting delivery next month. I wasn't in a rush because we ordered a wall unit that is also expected next month, and foolishly I'm hoping they arrive about the same time. However, once the set is here I am going to face the question of how quickly should I upgrade the rset of my equipment, and to what.

With the exception of the speakers, the entire set up is going to have to be replaced. My DVD player is a Sony bought in 2000, which although it has component, s-video and composite, is otherwise pretty dated - no progressive scan, etc. My receiver was bought at the same time as the dvd player, and only has composite connections. This wasn't a problem when we bought it because its been connected to a 27" sony television I bought back in 1994 (may the GWIII last as long!). I have a standalone Sony tivo that I have for over two years that has S-video capacity but is connected to the receiver through composite. I am planning on moving the tivo to the bedroom tv once we are able to get a high definition pvr from Comcast, which they keep telling us is coming soon.

My question is this: I have about $1,000 bucks I could spend now to replace the dvd and receiver. Should I do so now, and get a unit with good reviews for its performance over component, figuring that I will run the dvd via component through the new receiver, or should I hold off buying until reasonably priced receivers that will handle dvi come on the market so I can run both dvd and cable through it, and just live with composite connections until then?

If the advice is don't wait, what dvd player would you recommend?

vandammeman

02-24-04, 12:57 AM

the GWIII looks better with a non progressive feed, using the 3:2 pull down, and the DRC to deinterlace the signal, so save your money. i have a progressive DVD player, but it just plain looks better in 480i, near hd in fact! if you look around these threads on the GWIII, you will see this confirmed many times. also don't waste money on the dvi cables, unless you need the extra input, i really can't see any difference. dvi seems more about copy protection than picture quality.

JimP

02-24-04, 04:06 AM

Originally posted by vandammeman
the GWIII looks better with a non progressive feed, using the 3:2 pull down, and the DRC to deinterlace the signal, so save your money. i have a progressive DVD player, but it just plain looks better in 480i

sfsteve

This really is going to depend on how good the deinterlacer is in your DVD player. Some will find the deinterlacer better in the GWIII than the one in their DVD player, therefore it make more sense for those people to use their DVD player on interlaced, while others with better deinterlacers in their DVD player would do better using it on progressive.

You'll also find a lot of discussion about which deinterlacer is better under differing situations. Total DVD player performance includes other factors besides the deinterlacer, so it really a matter of how well a DVD player performs in total.

You can easily spend a couple of thousand dollars or more on a DVD player if you're in persuit of the absolute best picture. However as the price increases you have to decide if its worth it to you.

As to what you should do.
The "secrets" site is suppose to update their shootouts either this week or next. Their performance evaluations are viewed as a pretty good indicator on how these dvd player perform relative to each other.
I'd say wait to see what these people have to say. Sometimes a sleeper is in the bunch (like the XP30 was) that is at a fairly low price point that performs very well.

saberry

02-24-04, 05:53 AM

What happens when you set the t.v. to 3:2 pulldown and the DVD to progressive?

JimP

02-24-04, 07:21 AM

Originally posted by saberry
What happens when you set the t.v. to 3:2 pulldown and the DVD to progressive?

The 3:2 pulldown(Cinemotion) is in the advanced settings that are not available if the DVD player is outputting a progressive signal.

enkur

02-24-04, 03:06 PM

what is this "secrets" site? can you provide a link

countz

02-24-04, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by enkur
what is this "secrets" site? can you provide a link

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/

jvlgato

02-24-04, 04:08 PM

Originally posted by sfsteve

With the exception of the speakers, the entire set up is going to have to be replaced. My DVD player is a Sony bought in 2000, which although it has component, s-video and composite, is otherwise pretty dated - no progressive scan, etc.

Should I do so now, and get a unit with good reviews for its performance over component, figuring that I will run the dvd via component through the new receiver, or should I hold off buying until reasonably priced receivers that will handle dvi come on the market so I can run both dvd and cable through it, and just live with composite connections until then?

I got my GWIII 50" a week ago (finally!!), and use a 5-6 yr old Pioneer DVD player with component out, but no progressive, and I'm very surprised at how good it looks. I was expecting to be sickened by the poor image and artifact, and thought I'd want a new DVD player right away. I turn on the Sony's DRC and Cinemotion, and it really looks good! I think the Sony's processor does a pretty good job. I'm planning to wait for DVI to have its kinks worked out then skip right over to DVI. I heard through the grapevine that Sony and Panasonic will have one coming out this spring at a reasonable price (very unofficial), plus Bravo D2 is due out later this year, and maybe they've worked out their problems. The only thing is, I doubt any receiver in the near future will have DVI switching. But it's one remote push button on the Sony; that's not a biggie to me. Good luck!

AbMagFab

02-24-04, 04:58 PM

Since the TV is a LCD/LCOS TV, everything it displays is progressive scan, even if the source is interlaced. So there's very little difference in most DVD players through this TV when you press the "Progressive" button.

The biggest difference is if you have a DVD player with the Farouda DVDi chip. This makes a HUGE difference in interlaced source. A good test for this is the THX logo video on Monster's Inc (with the robot sailing around and the cow-noise-cylinder thing). On a regular DVD player, even with progressive scan, there are horrible interlacing artifacts. The GWIII helps some, but 3:2 only does so much. A DVD player with Farouda (like the new Samsung with DVI output, even using just the component out) eliminates any interlacing artifacts.

So... For most content, an average DVD player is more than enough. If you have interlaced source (like most TV to DVD discs), depending on how harsh it is, a good DVD player will far exceed what the GWIII is capable of doing.

(Also, there are some good DVI switches out there, like the one from Gefen, that has discrete remote codes for your all-in-one macros, and switches DVI and optical/coax digital audio.)

ted321

02-24-04, 10:23 PM

Somebody Please help!! I'm the proud new owner of a 50WE610. Very impressed with picture quality on DirectV, DVD and even tried a SVHS tape that looked great. Problem is with DVD playback. On a widescreen DVD I am often not getting a full widescreen picture on the TV, in other words it's framing the picture in the "normal " mode in 4:3 ( black bars on ALL sides). It keep doing this on my player (then the player would'nt accept discs) so I replaced it thinking something was wrong with the player. Bought a Pioneer DV-563 "Universal player (too replace my prior Pioneer universal player. Wachted a few movies and it properly framed the widescreen, no problem. I've set the DVD player to 16:9/ progessive and am using component cables. Tonight I poped a few discs in and the new player is not properly framing the widescreen!!! What am I doing wrong?? By the way I called SONY and the rep said they're never heard of the problem and it was likely due the the DVD player

JimP

02-24-04, 10:42 PM

1. Verify that the DVD player is setup to display in 16:9
2. Be sure that you haven't somehow hit the "wide" button and changed the stretch mode on the GWIII.
3. If you're running both component and svideo, you may find that you have different "wide" settings on each.

ted321

02-25-04, 12:37 AM

JimP, Thanks for the reply..the DVD player is setup to display in 16:9 and I'm only running component on the DVD player. Just tried a few widescreen DVDs..(and also switched the progressive setting to off on the DVD player, dont know if it's had an effect).. the films looked properly displayed in the "full" mode ( not stretched as a 4:3 source would look in this mode; in the "normal" mode these films looked compressed))..Correct me if I'm wrong but should'nt the GWIII when fed a widescreen DVD default to "normal" when properly displaying the picture?? Sorry if I'm not explaining it right!!

netexplode

02-25-04, 01:26 AM

<<
And I didn't know the Replay had component out (3 video cables), I thought it just had composite (one video cable) and S-Vid... That seems like an expensive piece of hardware in the Replay for something that can only accept S-Vid (max) as input?
>>

Yes progressive scan output is standard from replaytv 4000 or 5000 series. but as you implied, it's sort of useless when watching live TV since PQ on replaytv is not as good as PQ on TV. i think it only outputs at 480p too..

JimP

02-25-04, 02:32 AM

ted

It doesn't automatically default to normal. On component and Svideo, you have to depress the "wide" button on the remote till you get "full".

ted321

02-25-04, 06:32 AM

Jim, Thanks once again for your post..What you say and what I'm seeing seems to be true..I guess what confuses me is that the manual indicates that the widescreen modes are only for creating a widescreen image for a 4:3 source!??

dan57

02-25-04, 09:06 AM

Ted321: Just so you don't think you're crazy, I have the same issue. I have an Integra 5 DVD carousel. If I switch it to output progressive, I get a 4:3 image. Yes, I made sure I set the player to output widescreen and I too have it hooked up using component cables. I posed this question a month or two ago, and did not get a satisfactory answer. If I switch back to interlaced, the image is widescreen. Wierd. By the way, the interlaced image looks darn good (I use the 3:2 deinterlacer on the GWIII, or whatever it's called.) Anybody else have an answer?

AbMagFab

02-25-04, 09:13 AM

Set the TV to "Full". This will always strech the image to 16:9. Not sure why people are having such an issue with this.

If the DVD source if 4:3, then Full will make it look silly. If the DVD source is Anamorphic, then set to Full. If the DVD source is letterboxed, then set to "Zoom".

AbMagFab

02-25-04, 09:15 AM

Hey, anyone know if the GWIII (50WE610) has a HDCP compliant DVI port? If not, it looks like we might get screwed with DVR'ing HD content, unless the moronic FCC gets their head out of their a*s.

vandammeman

02-25-04, 09:45 AM

yes the GWIII is hdcp capable, and if you use component or dvi and the feed is 480p, 720p, or 1080i, it will lock into full screen. it will not do this in 480i. that is the problem. set you dvd player to 480i, and use the 3:2 pull down and the DRC will deinterlace it for you. much better picture, much more control over the wide modes. by the way, just because a dvd is letter boxed, does not mean it will display at 16:9. it must be anamorphic. it will say this on the box, or it will say enhanced for wide screen tv's, or for 16:9 tv's, etc. this will give you a proper aspect if your dvd player is set to 16:9, and the tv is set to full.

AbMagFab

02-25-04, 10:24 AM

It's really HDCP capable? Do you have anything that says this? The Sony site only says DVI, and I haven't dug out the manuals to see what they say.

So with this broadcast flag nonsense, what does this mean (at the moment) we'll be limited to with, say, an HD-Tivo? 90-minute time shifting max? no FF? Anything else?

vandammeman

02-25-04, 12:13 PM

ah, i thank all dvi's on current consumer tv's are HDCP, thats why they are using them, greedy *******s. i don't know the details but i'm sure it's to control their content with the new hd recording technolgy coming.

jvlgato

02-25-04, 02:27 PM

The GWIII DVI is HDCP compatible. I can't say I've used it yet, but I carefully researched this prior to purchase due to my great concerns over this matter:

1. Asked the Sony salespeople (least reliable, unfortunately, but she did put me hold for a few minutes to ask around before she said yes!)

2. On the Sony web site, if you look up 'DVI-HDTV' in the 'television glossary' link, it is defined as having HDCP:

DVI-HDTV. An interface that enables spectacular, uncompressed digital-to-digital transport of a video signal from an HDTV receiver to a "high scanning," "High Definition monitor" or "High Definition upgradeable" television. The connection is also secured by HDCP technology to protect the signal from piracy.

The link is:

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_BrowseCatalog-Start;sid=_RwBWZk10hQBeNkJD6sLUtY42hZLbVkaAfs=?CategoryName= pr_p_Television_Glossary_tv

or just go to www.sonystyle.com, look around for TVs, then on the right side, click on the television glossary link. I emailed 2 months ago saying DVI-HDTV is a non-standard term, and it should be 'DVI-HDCP', but it hasn't changed.

3. Sony owns movie studios, and wants to protect its copyrights. Plus, they are on the HDMI consortium of companies that designed the HDMI connection, and this is backward compatible with DVI-HDCP. It would be pretty dumb and politically incorrect to put out a DVI that is not HDCP compatible while on the HDMI consortium. But that wouldn't necessarily stop someone from doing it, right? Still, it makes sense that it would be compatible.

I do not believe that ALL DVI connections on all TVs are now HDCP compatible, although they should be. Usually, when this feature is listed, it should say ' DVI-HDCP'.

Why doesn't Sony do this? I don't know, but I can guess ... most of these things come down to $$, right? Although Sony is on the consortium that designs and owns patent rights to HDMI, I notice via web searches that they are NOT on the consortium that designs DVI! (The Digital Display Working Group or DDWG) I wonder if licensing fees are charged whenever someone uses this term for marketing? Or maybe the official DVI-HDCP 'seal of approval' requires technical checks and approval by the DDWG for a huge fee in order to put those letters on its specs? So they use 'DVI-HDTV', hoping no one will notice. Who knows.

ted321

02-26-04, 08:39 PM

Originally posted by dan57
Ted321: Just so you don't think you're crazy, I have the same issue. I have an Integra 5 DVD carousel. If I switch it to output progressive, I get a 4:3 image. Yes, I made sure I set the player to output widescreen and I too have it hooked up using component cables. I posed this question a month or two ago, and did not get a satisfactory answer. If I switch back to interlaced, the image is widescreen. Wierd. By the way, the interlaced image looks darn good (I use the 3:2 deinterlacer on the GWIII, or whatever it's called.) Anybody else have an answer? Dan57, Thanks for the advice. As you did I switched back to interlaced and used the 3:2 deinterlacer on the GWIII on the picture was noticibly better...however to use the deinterlacer on the TV you must switch to an S Video connection. Surprised that the picture looks better than with the component connection. Wonder why you cant use the deinterlacer in Input 5&6?? .

Robert_B

02-27-04, 01:14 PM

Took delivery of a 42” three weeks ago, customized all my picure settings and so far I’m pleased except for a couple of things that bug me.

1. The inputs have no save settings. I use Vivid for both DVD’s (input 1) and XBOX (input 5), so any change (brightness) made for a game screws up the DVD setting, which brings me to my second peeve.

2. The menu picture setting adjustments have no numbers only ticks, so after making an ajustment for a game you have to either count the ticks all over again or guess approximetaly where the bar was located for the DVD setting. I use Standard for SD TV so I suppose I could use the PRO setting for either DVD's or games but I personaly find that one totally useless.

While I’m at it one more, the carrying hole on the lower portion of the TV. Great idea, except that one’s fingers tend to slip out. All they had to do is indent the plastic upwards in the hole so that one’s fingers would slip in, thus creating a strong grip. Go figure.

mike1650

02-27-04, 07:35 PM

Ok..........I have the BB repair guy coming out on Tues for my complaint about the blacks in HD. I have the brightness all the way up and all blacks blend together in seemingly one mass.
It acts like it just needs more brightness but it is not available. Not the dreaded bulb problem is it?
Anyway what I would like for you guys is suggestions for other problems that I may have not noticed that I should address while they are here. I have noticed the fan or fans seems to be getting louder the longer I have it.
I am trying this fix before my 30 days runs out at BB. If it can't be fixed I will have them pick it up and try something else.

JimP

02-27-04, 07:42 PM

Mike,

Where is your contrast(Picture) control and are you in Vivid mode?

How old is your set?

mike1650

02-27-04, 07:49 PM

I'll have to check on the contrast when I'm home but I have played with it and it's still bad IMO. Vivid is set and the TV is 2 weeks old.

Originally posted by JimP
Mike,

Where is your contrast(Picture) control and are you in Vivid mode?

How old is your set?

JimP

02-27-04, 08:07 PM

Mike,

Vivid is crushing your blacks.
Personally, I prefer Vivid because it has more snap, but changing Mode to standard or Pro will help detail in the dark shadows to seperate from black.

I also found that setting brightness up some from the Avia calibration helps open up the shadows.

AbMagFab

02-28-04, 12:03 AM

Yeah, definitely try Pro or Standard (I prefer Pro with some tweaks).

steve0742003

02-28-04, 03:39 PM

I have been following this thread for awhile now and finally decided to go ahead and get the 50" GWIII since the bulb problems seem to be fixed now. I just had it delivered this morning and was vey happy to find that it is a FEB 04 build. I was wondering which calibration disc would best the only ones I have heard of is Avia and DVE. I am not sure if one is better than the other or if it is just a matter of opinion.

AbMagFab

02-28-04, 05:05 PM

I have both. I think the concensus is that Avia is better, but DVE is easier/quicker to use. In both cases, I basically ended up with just the sharpness turned down. I like the blacks brighter than both discs say they should be, and the colors are only slightly red shifted. A lot of the other stuff (like convergence) is geared towards CRT TV's.

For sound, I'm in the family room with a less than ideal setup (TV in the corner), so I haven't gone through that yet, but I'd imagine both are similar as well.

So get either (although I'd recommend the DVE myself). Hell, even just use the THX portion of a THX DVD and you'll get nearly the same results.

JeffNebraska

03-01-04, 04:09 PM

The Oscars and black crush...

I have to say, as beautiful as the Oscars were, my parents GWIII really blended all tuxedos into a single undefined field (with buttons and lapels invisible).

I see above that people think the Vivid mode may be a part of the problem, but I don't think my parents are willing to tinker much with it, because they're so pleased with their two channels of INHD. It's too bad to see a chink in the set's armor, but maybe I can find some way to address the issue when I have time to sit down and work on it. Either way, the initial calibration with DVE left the blacks pretty ill-defined.

s2silber

03-01-04, 04:22 PM

I used the black tuxedo with lapels on last night's Oscars as a gauge for my own black levels on the GWIII. I must say I was very pleased to see some level of detail and definition. It's not as good on blacks as my prior direct view (Sony KV34XBR800), but not bad.

AbMagFab

03-01-04, 04:44 PM

Changing to Pro is not tinkering, it's just changing the video mode. Takes about 2 seconds, and 2 more seconds to change it back.

If they like the Vivid, they'll *love* the Pro. Vivid is just odd looking to me.

Just go to the TV menu, then to Setup I think, and right on top you'll see Video mode. Click on it, and try Standard and Pro (or back to Vivid). Pick what looks best.

calgary kid

03-01-04, 05:23 PM

Using standard worked on the tuxes, and what worked even better was switching the output on my Motorola 6200 from 1080i to 720p (forgot it was ABC). I have no idea why that worked, but suddenly the lapels, tux material and backdrop didn't all blend into one shade of black.

Troy

03-01-04, 05:23 PM

Pro looks terrible on mine. How do you have it set up in the user adjustments?

umr

03-01-04, 05:26 PM

I could see all the tux details on my set. This included the fabric patterns.

JeffNebraska

03-01-04, 06:26 PM

I should have experimented with Pro and Standard, but Vivid is the "snappiest" (i.e., most contrasty) image and the one my parents lean toward. I think I would have to "tinker" with the settings within the Vivid framework to please them.

I should, however, have changed the output to 720p, given the ABC thing. That, I'm sure, would have improved things a bit.

calgary kid

03-01-04, 06:33 PM

Jeff: Vivid has too much snap for me, and I have not had to go passed the user menu to get half decent blacks. I'm too chicken to take it to the next level like umr. When you first take it off vivid, it does look a little washed out, but only in comparison to what you (or your parents) are used to.

opuscat

03-01-04, 08:26 PM

I find the Pro mode very grey and washed out myself (out of the box Pro setting that is). I use that setting to fool around with the menu picture settings. Like the kid I'm too chicken to take it to the UMR level.

AbMagFab

03-01-04, 11:37 PM

I use Pro with:

- Sharpness turned all the way down (HD) or only about 20% (S-Vid)
- Black level up to 80%
- White level up to 50-60%
- Color slightly to the green

Yes, the black level is way above what Avia and DVE say to keep it at, but it looks good to me, and that's all that matters.

JimP

03-02-04, 01:55 AM

I think a mistake that we're easy to fall into is trying to use the same "mode" for all content. It just doesn't work that way.

Although I too prefer vivid for its snap, some programming needs standard or pro in order to avoid the last 4 step of gray from being displayed as one single blob of gray/black. By the same token, the content that shows more in the shadows when using Vivid, does tend to look flat in pro. All you really have to do is mash the mode button on the remote to switch it, what's the big deal?

mightihd

03-02-04, 12:49 PM

I was having a hard time to pop out the front panel to check the brand of the lamp. My Feb. built TV starts always on the SIX blinks. Does anyone have a latter built date TV starts on 4 blinks or less? Thanks.

cwood24

03-02-04, 01:33 PM

Originally posted by mightihd
I was having a hard time to pop out the front panel to check the brand of the lamp. My Feb. built TV starts always on the SIX blinks. Does anyone have a latter built date TV starts on 4 blinks or less? Thanks.

Got my 42" last Thurs (Feb 04 Build) and always starts @ <4 flashes.
Haven't checked my bulb and I'm not going to.

All I asked for was 1) Feb 04 Build Date & 2) No Dead Pixels out of the box (actually made the store take it out of the box for me to inspect). Since those criterias were met.....I'm a happy man! :D

LarryJoe

03-02-04, 03:21 PM

I thought the grammy's looked incredible, including the blacks. I had no problem with crush or lapels. Then again, I am talking more to the red carpet than the awards. I fell asleep by 9:00. Maybe the blacks looked better outside?

I had my Pro mode professionally calibrated and it looks great. I needed to make a few minor adjustments in the UM to get it to my liking. I will say that you folks that like vivid and think pro looks washed out should try to tweak pro a little and watch it exclusively for a few weeks. You will grow to like it more than vivid, which will then look processed and artificial.

brewc

03-02-04, 05:18 PM

What turns me off about Pro is that faces and text looks all blurry and hard to read, this is out of the box setting.

opuscat

03-02-04, 08:45 PM

Originally posted by AbMagFab
I use Pro with:

- Sharpness turned all the way down (HD) or only about 20% (S-Vid)
- Black level up to 80%
- White level up to 50-60%
- Color slightly to the green

Yes, the black level is way above what Avia and DVE say to keep it at, but it looks good to me, and that's all that matters.

Interesting settings, I'm trying it out with the Pro setting and HD tonight. What do you see the Color Temp, NR, and Mild at? Or anyone for that matter. tx

G.B.

03-03-04, 10:35 AM

IN CHECKING MY SET . BLACK LEVEL IS AT 37 STEPS UP ON STANDARD & PRO, VIVID ITS AT 31. THEN ON VIVID GO BACK TO CONTRAST SETINGS WHITCH IS ALL THE WAY UP TO 63, ADJUST IT DOWN TO 57 OR LESS. CHECK IT WITH TMX WHITE SETTINGS SO YOU ARE NOT OVERDRIVING.THIS IS WHERE IT WINDS UP ON MY X.B.R. AFTER UMR SETTINGS. YOU WILL FIND IN SERVICE MENU 37 EQUALS 37 ON THE USER MENU IF YOU SET RESET BEFORE & AFTER UMR'S CALIBATIONS....G.B

mike1650

03-03-04, 10:55 AM

I was so dissappointed with the Oscar black tuxedo blob that I had the BB guy out yesterday to look at it and see if there was something he could do about the blacks. He fiddled with it for a while and pretty much said there was nothing wrong with the TV. He changed some settings but when I watched CBS last night the dark scenes were seemingly all black. I had the guy out before my trial period ends at BB. I am seriously thinking about returning this to them and trying something else. Maybe their new models will have some improvement. Asked what kind of TV I had before and I told him it was a 32" XBR squared from about 10-12 years ago. He says "Well, you are never going to get as good a picture as that one had." He looks at the Sony and says it needs a "Jungle chip" and possibly IF something.

opuscat

03-03-04, 08:41 PM

Well I've gone back to Standard (reset to out of the box) tonight for Enterprise on HD. The blakc levels are a bit blended to be sure but I do find the clarity of the remainder pretty good. I'm still playing with the Pro mode settings and the blacks are better based on the previous post but I find it so gray in general. I have an SD3250 for digital and HD tv. Not sure if anyone thought about what they do with the color temp, Nr, and Mild (off or on?).

I'm gonna break down and buy a setup DVD after 2 months of owning the tv. I'm sure this has been answered a million times too but maybe this is a good poll to start? DVE or Avia? DVE is less than half the price for it in Canada $30 compared to $60 or $70 for the Avia so you can guess to which I'm leaning eh LOL

opuscat

03-03-04, 08:43 PM

Originally posted by G.B.
IN CHECKING MY SET . BLACK LEVEL IS AT 37 STEPS UP ON STANDARD & PRO, VIVID ITS AT 31. THEN ON VIVID GO BACK TO CONTRAST SETINGS WHITCH IS ALL THE WAY UP TO 63, ADJUST IT DOWN TO 57 OR LESS. CHECK IT WITH TMX WHITE SETTINGS SO YOU ARE NOT OVERDRIVING.THIS IS WHERE IT WINDS UP ON MY X.B.R. AFTER UMR SETTINGS. YOU WILL FIND IN SERVICE MENU 37 EQUALS 37 ON THE USER MENU IF YOU SET RESET BEFORE & AFTER UMR'S CALIBATIONS....G.B

GB, not sure if you were trying to answer my post a little here previously since it was all Greek to me and I mean that in the kindest sense. CHECK IT WITH TMX WHITE SETTINGS SO YOU ARE NOT OVERDRIVING ... uhhh, huh? Can that be translated into "novice speak" for me :confused:

studranger

03-04-04, 09:15 AM

Originally posted by opuscat
Well I've gone back to Standard (reset to out of the box) tonight for Enterprise on HD. The blakc levels are a bit blended to be sure but I do find the clarity of the remainder pretty good. I'm still playing with the Pro mode settings and the blacks are better based on the previous post but I find it so gray in general. I have an SD3250 for digital and HD tv. Not sure if anyone thought about what they do with the color temp, Nr, and Mild (off or on?).

I'm gonna break down and buy a setup DVD after 2 months of owning the tv. I'm sure this has been answered a million times too but maybe this is a good poll to start? DVE or Avia? DVE is less than half the price for it in Canada $30 compared to $60 or $70 for the Avia so you can guess to which I'm leaning eh LOL well i have my 42 in sony settings at high contrast and brightness-that suits me-and setting at neutral--warm is too red, for me anyway--its a matter of taste-had my sony going on 5 months now-oct build-and no problems-has original philips lamp and 3 blinks and on--had hip replacement surgery last week(im 59) and that tv is going nite and day--and i mean nite and day-cant sleep-not pain--just nap all day and wake up 2 am wide awake-plunk goes the tv on-till about 5 am then on again at 7 am--that way all day-again=its a matter of taste--just like an art picture-dont know what the hullaballoo about the blacks is about--tv looks ok to me-im a tv watcher--NOT an analyzer-bought the tv to enjoy it--NOT look for its faults--see ya

JimP

03-04-04, 10:27 AM

Studranger

GET A SPARE BULB NOW ! ;)

With your settings as high as you say and the picture isn't burning holes in your retinas, then the bulb may be about to go. It typically gets a bit dimmer just before going to bulb heavan.

G.B.

03-04-04, 11:45 AM

Hi , Yes I was using D V E black level test mode, but I like T H X for checking overdriving the white level. I can see the overdrive point easyer on the white levels. But I was wanting to check, & UMR is correct with 37 UBRI in service menu, and it's 37 clicks up from the bottom in user menu for black level in the PRO & STANDARD mode. For VIVID they start at 25, to get the same black level it was 31. But then go to white level & make the check that you are not overdriving white's & it was around UMR' 58 for Vivid & PRO. Standared you can do 60 or 63 for white because they have gamma set diferant for this positon. Keep this in mind VIVID, STANDARD, PRO, WILL ALL LOOK DIFERANT DO TO HOW THEY SET GAMMA This is why they kinda overdue the black level in Vivid to over accent blacks for people that dont think they are seeing true black level.....G. B.

sfsteve

03-04-04, 03:58 PM

Two and a half weeks after I ordered it, my 50" GWIII was delivered yesterday. Baby and owners are doing fine.

Quick question, I searched for previous posts in this thread but did not find a clear answer to my specific question. Can someone tell me if the Harmony Remote is capable of switching the GWIII between its variious picture modes (vivid, standard, pro) and picture sizes (zoom, normal, etc.)? My partner is pressing to get one so we can have all our machines on one remote, but I don't see how it would be worth $200 if we are going to keep needing to go back to the GWIII remote.

Joe Figueiredo

03-04-04, 04:49 PM

Since getting a HD receiver yesterday and retweaking for HD feeds, I have to say a properly calibrated Vivid mode looks much better than UMR's tweaked Pro mode for HD programming. It makes objects stand right out and almost 3d on the screen, while Pro makes things look too soft and with a gray looking veil over everything.

nyrjoe

03-04-04, 05:46 PM

The Harmony is a great remote and will fully control the GWIII. It even has access to some codes not on the the original. For example you can directly adjust brightness and contrast without having to enter the picture menu.

AbMagFab

03-04-04, 07:51 PM

I use the MX-700, and I have discrete codes for everything (video input, video mode, brightness, on/off, zoom mode, etc.).

Not sure if the Harmony allows you to customize the remote, but Sony is nice and tends to use the same remote control codes for all their TV's. So if you find a control file with discrete codes for any Sony TV, it should work on the GWIII.

If you get an MX-700/800 and want my GWIII file, shoot me a PM, and I'll mail it to you.

js1010

03-04-04, 11:22 PM

Hello, I am pretty new to the forum, been reading about the GWIII for a month or so now. I decided to buy one inspite of some of the issues mentioned. I received a 60 non XBR last week has a FEb 2004 build date, haven't had any problems with bulb or buzzing yet.

TV is great when displaying HD but SD programing leaves a lot do be desired in my opinion. I have Direct TV with a TS160 HD Samsung Reveiver hooked through the the DVI interface. The SD display through the DVI interface is pretty bad, it seems blurry and I see a lot of ghosting (I believe this term is the best way to describe what I am seeing).

What I have done is also hook up an S Video Cable which gives me a better display for SD programs.

Has anyone else tried this or can anyone explain why this is and if there is anything that can be done to improve PQ for SD programs using DVI interface. I have also tried component cables and didn't see any improvement in SD programs

Would any of the SM tweaks resolve some of the issues I am experiencing.

thanks in advance for any info

Jerry

dj81462

03-05-04, 09:22 AM

Originally posted by js1010
Hello, I am pretty new to the forum, been reading about the GWIII for a month or so now. I decided to buy one inspite of some of the issues mentioned. I received a 60 non XBR last week has a FEb 2004 build date, haven't had any problems with bulb or buzzing yet.

TV is great when displaying HD but SD programing leaves a lot do be desired in my opinion. I have Direct TV with a TS160 HD Samsung Reveiver hooked through the the DVI interface. The SD display through the DVI interface is pretty bad, it seems blurry and I see a lot of ghosting (I believe this term is the best way to describe what I am seeing).

What I have done is also hook up an S Video Cable which gives me a better display for SD programs.

Has anyone else tried this or can anyone explain why this is and if there is anything that can be done to improve PQ for SD programs using DVI interface. I have also tried component cables and didn't see any improvement in SD programs

Would any of the SM tweaks resolve some of the issues I am experiencing.

thanks in advance for any info

Jerry

I've found the composite input works best for SD. My cable signal looks like crap when I view SD thru component and no so good with svideo. I setup up an input with composite and it looks much better, so I switch between composite for SD and component for HD. I believe the sony does a better job of scaling than your receiver.
DJ

opuscat

03-05-04, 10:28 AM

What you're experiencing appears to be true for any such tv as it's very common. As dj says ... I believe the sony does a better job of scaling than your receiver.

For regular SD analog signals, split the cable and run one to your reciever for digital. Run the other directly into the tv to improve PQ on the analog stations. At least it's way better this way on mine and there's tons of posts around indicating the same for pretty much any tv.

I use component for my reciever for the remaining channels.

js1010

03-05-04, 10:48 AM

thanks for the reply's, I can't run directly in to my TV as it is not Cable but Direct TV. I will try composite cables from my TS160 tonight and see if its better than the S-Video I have on there now.

Jerry

AbMagFab

03-05-04, 10:52 AM

I have a TS360 and the DVI connection looks great for HD and non-HD content. Not sure what issues people are seeing in the TV for non-HD.

opuscat

03-05-04, 11:18 AM

It's just that most people get a better PQ on analog stations when running the coax directly into the tv. It's not that it's neccessarily awful through the reciever, it's just generally better bypassing.

AbMagFab

03-05-04, 11:23 AM

Huh, interesting. I get progressivle better pictures when upping my connection quality. I can't do coax directly (DirecTV), but DVI > Component > S-Video > Composite...

Maybe it's just people being used to a lousy picture?

You can also clean up the SD pictures a lot through some of the settings, particular noise reduction and digital softening (forget the actual names).

js1010

03-05-04, 12:11 PM

All I can say is watching SD through DVI is almost unwatchable on my setup. I was so upset when I first turned to SD after shelling out 4k that I almost returned the set the next day.

If I put my Direct TV on channel 110 the Test Channel with Direct TV logo on it you can see so much ghosting around the edges of the letters, looks horrible.

I will try tweaking a bit more with noise reduction etc. but I don't think it going to change it as much as going to S-Video has.

I can live with PQ that I am getting with S-Video. Any other input as to why this is happening is welcomed as I am not sure I understand why I am experiencing better PQ with S-Video than DVI for SD programs.

roblake

03-05-04, 01:28 PM

Originally posted by js1010
All I can say is watching SD through DVI is almost unwatchable on my setup. I was so upset when I first turned to SD after shelling out 4k that I almost returned the set the next day.

If I put my Direct TV on channel 110 the Test Channel with Direct TV logo on it you can see so much ghosting around the edges of the letters, looks horrible.

It seems that you have some bad cable. A loose connection somewhere or a bad feed from the dish. If the test channel shows ghosting, I'd bet no amount of twiddling with the set will eliminate it.

papi4baby

03-05-04, 01:58 PM

I have heard from several people that SD does look beeter of S-Video and Coax, why dont you try that first, and just use your component and dvi for HD Feeds, i was thinking maybe is the SD is not really digital maybe that's why is looks like crap through DVI????? can DVI support analog signal the same as digital??? i dont think so, but just a thought

opuscat

03-05-04, 02:17 PM

I know squat about DirectTV and there's pretty much no DVI possible for me. I have an SA3250 and my local cable company says the DVI is in Beta and I've read on some canadian sites that it's hit and miss with DVI so far. Some have it working great, others can't see a thing. In fact, it's pretty nigh impossible to find somewhere to buy a DVI cable for it in these parts, go figure. Best of luck ... I can say I try not to watch much SA anymore anyway, as much HD as possible since once you go there it's pretty hard to go back to the other SA. Most of my shows are in HD locally that I watch thankfully, Enterprise, Smallville, Frasier (sometimes anyway.

Sebastian1

03-05-04, 03:12 PM

Welp, I just joined the GWIII ranks, Just using rabbit ears until my cable gets installed (new house). Anyway the 2 or 3 stations that do come in look really good. I wonder what cable is going to look like?

JBaumgart

03-05-04, 04:11 PM

Originally posted by Sebastian1
Yelp, I just joined the GWIII ranks, Just using rabbit ears until my cable gets installed (new house). Anyway the 2 or 3 stations that do come in look really good. I wonder what cable is going to look like?

Speaking from experience as the owner of a 15 year-old house in which we added various cable hookups to new TV's in different rooms over the years, my suggestion would be to "plan ahead" and think of where you could possibly install other TV's in your house in the coming years. For example, it's a lot easier and you have more choices running cable to your lowest level before the basement is finished...

Assuming this will always be the room containing your main TV with the largest screen, have the incoming cable run through the wall as close as possible to where your new TV will be positioned, and then have them put in just one high quality splitter (as needed for other TV's) adjacent to this entry point. If due to a large number of TV's you need an amplifier, it should be of high quality and be placed so that it boosts the signal of all your sets equally (at least this is what I'm told by the last service guy that was over, and he seemed to know his stuff).

In my case the room where I just placed a new 60XBR950 has the worst signal of any of our 5 TV's, due to a number of different spitters at various points in the house, and an extra long run winding its way to this set. I am having a more senior Comcast tech guy out to my house tomorrow to "audit" the entire system, and they have indicated that they will do a separate, dedicated run to this set (the size of which exaggerates the loss of signal way more than my old 36" 4:3 screen did). With an indoor UHF antenna the included HD tuner on my new Sony pulls in OTA reception just great, but the twice-split long cable run produces SD picture quality that leaves a lot to desired. I am optimistic that a stronger signal will improve the picture considerably, but looking back I wish that I was in your position of starting from scratch.

Good luck!

sfsteve

03-05-04, 04:42 PM

I imagine its a matter of individual preference, but could someone give me an idea of anything they have done with the Custom Palette settings that they think has improved the picture? I am not happy with the detail level of my new GWIII out of the box on dvds (using component on a non-progressive scan player) - for instance text in titles on the screen is a little blurry - but I am hesitant given my general mechanical incompetence to attempt to mess around with the service menu items.

AbMagFab

03-05-04, 05:53 PM

Yeah, you definitely have something wrong before the TV. The test channel looks perfect to me.

corinthbandit

03-05-04, 10:47 PM

Why does color vary so much between Hi-Def signals and a normal Directv channel? For instance, skin tones look great in vivid and standard mode while viewing a Hi-Def channel but I get a green push on skin tones when watching a normal directv or digital local channel.

I can understand clarity not being as good, but I don't understand the difference in color??

AbMagFab

03-06-04, 08:50 AM

My guess is that's your source. I find everything has a red push, no matter what the source (DirecTV SD, DirecTV HD, OTA HD). So I've adjusted slightly green.

Did you do any balancing with Avia or DVE, or did you change any of the settings yourself?

JimP

03-06-04, 11:03 AM

Originally posted by corinthbandit
Why does color vary so much between Hi-Def signals and a normal Directv channel? For instance, skin tones look great in vivid and standard mode while viewing a Hi-Def channel but I get a green push on skin tones when watching a normal directv or digital local channel.

I can understand clarity not being as good, but I don't understand the difference in color??

Go into the service menu for hue offset for the 480i signal for that input and adjust the tint. That will help offset much of the green you're seeing. You can also adjust brightness and color and contrast that way.

You would also need different color decoder settings as high def is different than NTSC. Only problem is how do you generate a high def signal without the proper test signals to make these adjustments.

AbMagFab

03-06-04, 11:17 AM

Anyone have the service codes for the GWIII? I think I saw them in this thread somewhere, but can't find them anymore.

sfsteve

03-06-04, 01:32 PM

Sorry to be asking so many questions, but can someone tell me whether, since my current dvd player is not progressive, I should have the advanced video options on cinemotion when I play a dvd?

AbMagFab

03-06-04, 02:48 PM

You can try 3:2 pulldown, or cinemotion, but they don't make a huge difference. The GWIII is LCD RP, so everything it shows is progressive, no matter what the source. If your DVD isn't doing it, the TV will.

I've only noticed a difference with the new Samsung Faroudja DCDi and some heavily interlaced DVD's, otherwise the TV does as good a job as the DVD player.

At least that's my experience/understanding.

K9SS

03-06-04, 07:08 PM

Sony Unveils Comprehensive Line Of Digital Cable Ready HDTVs And High-Definition Digital Video Recorders

Posted on Saturday, February 28 @ 19:53:00 CST

Sony Electronics introduced today the industry's most comprehensive lineup of 12 Digital Cable Ready, fully integrated HDTV sets, forging the way for digital cable subscribers to conveniently access digital cable service. The new HDTV sets range in screen sizes from 30- to 60-inch models in the FD Trinitron® WEGA® direct-view CRT, Grand WEGA™ microdisplay LCD and the CRT rear projection television categories.

In addition, Sony unveiled two high-definition digital video recorders, featuring an integrated hard disk drive for recording and control of live broadcasts and an electronic program guide for easy access to a variety of high definition programming.

All of these new products will be designed to comply with CableLabs® CableCARD™ technology. CableCARD is a removable security module which, when inserted in a digital cable ready receiver or TV, enables the delivery of secure, digital audio/video content. It allows consumers to receive digital cable programming, including HDTV content without the need of a cable box from the local cable operator. Where supported, CableCARD modules will be provided by cable operators to consumers upon request.

Sony Electronics' ongoing, aggressive efforts to deliver the ultimate HDTV viewing experience to consumers have led to this expansive lineup that merges digital cable receiver technology with advanced high definition television for simplicity and convenience. This, along with the planned CableCARD-based interface make Sony's new televisions compatible with virtually all cable TV systems across the country.

"There are currently more than 70 million cable TV subscribers, and more high-definition content is becoming available to them every day," said Tim Baxter, senior vice president for Sony Electronics' Home Products Division.

"As the leader in the U.S. DTV market, it's our goal to support this trend by enhancing the consumer viewing experience and providing the latest technology through a line of new products that allows easier access to digital content."

Wide Range of Screen Sizes and Technologies

The new HDTV sets, designed to include a CableCARD-based interface, provide a comprehensive HD solution and will feature a variety of advanced picture technologies, including:

Integrated ATSC/QAM/NTSC tuner for access to over-the-air digital high definition broadcasts, as well as digital cable programming;

HDMI™ technology with HDCP (High Definition Multimedia Interface with High Definition Copy Protection) technology, which is the latest interconnect between digital sources, supporting both uncompressed high definition video and multi-channel digital audio through a single cable. HDMI is an enhanced version of DVI-HDTV and is backward compatible;

Digital Reality Creation™ MultiFunction V1 circuitry, which provides control over the level of DRC™ circuitry depending on quality of input signal, thereby displaying clear, stable images, no matter the video source;

MID™-X Multi Image Driver, which maintains the integrity of a converted signal by minimizing image loss in the scaling process and provides Flexible Twin View™ picture and picture features;

CineMotion™ reverse 3:2 pulldown circuitry for optimum film-based video source display; and

Memory Stick™ media slot for convenient JPEG and MPEG1 file playback. It can also display customized slide show with MP3 file background music. The new sets are compatible with Memory Stick Pro™ and Memory Stick Duo™ media formats.

FD Trinitron WEGA CRT Direct View Lineup

Leading this year's FD Trinitron WEGA direct-view TV line is the 34-inch widescreen KD-34XBR960 with top-of-the-line performance features and advanced picture technologies for a breathtaking viewing experience.

Utilizing second generation Super Fine Pitch™ CRT technology, which was developed exclusively for displaying high definition content, the KD-34XBR960 produces true to life, high-resolution images with virtually no visible vertical scanning lines on the screen for outstanding corner to corner image precision. The KD-34XBR960 34-inch model will be available in June for about $2,200.

Sony is also adding the XS-series to the FD Trinitron WEGA lineup. The expanded line will also feature Super Fine Pitch technology and include the widescreen 34-inch KD-34XS955, KD-30XS955 30-inch and 4:3 KD-36XS955 36-inch models. The widescreen models will be available for $2,000 $1,400, respectively in August and the 36-inch model will sell for around $1,900 in October.

CRT and Grand WEGA LCD Rear Projection Digital Cable Ready Models

In the Grand WEGA microdisplay LCD rear projection television category, there will be six new fully integrated HDTV models. Available in 42-, 50-, 55- and 60-inch screen sizes, the broad lineup of Grand WEGA televisions offers a wide choice in cosmetic styling.

These televisions utilize a proprietary LCD Optical Engine with Sony's WEGA Engine™ system to deliver exceptional, detailed picture quality from any video source by minimizing the digital-to-analog conversion process.

The Grand WEGA line consists of the KDF-42WE655, KDF-50WE655, KDF-55WF655, and KDF-60WF655 models, which all have new design features. They will be available in September for $2,800, $3,000, $3,700 and $4,000, respectively.

The step-up KDF-55XS955 and KDF-60XS955 models will be available in September as well for about $4,000 and $4,400.

Sony is also introducing two CRT rear projection, fully integrated high definition televisions, designed with a CableCARD-based interface, in 51- and 57-inch widescreen models. This year's KDP-51WS655 and KDP-57WS655 models will be available in September for around $2,100 and $2,400, respectively.

High-Definition Digital Video Recorders

For the 10 million existing DTV owners who want access to digital cable high definition content, Sony introduces a new line of HD digital video receiver/recorders. The new recorders, the DHG-HDD100 and the DHG-HDD200, provide access to encrypted high-definition and standard-definition digital cable services when paired with a CableCARD. They also provide access to legacy analog cable services, as well as non-subscription services such as high definition digital terrestrial and analog broadcasts.

The DHG-HDD200 digital video recorder can record and store up to 250 hours of standard definition programming or at least 25 hours of maximum bit rate high-definition content on its internal hard drive. The DHG-HDD100 will record up to 120 hours of SD programming and at least 12 hours of HD content.

The DHG-HDD100 and DHG-HDD200 will also include these features:

HDMI digital video output with backwards compatibility to DVI monitors;

Integrated electronic program guide (EPG) for convenient on-screen display of variety of programming;

Component video output for connection to many high-definition TVs;

Several standard-definition analog outputs for connection to legacy recording equipment or analog TVs;

Multiple display formats and flexible aspect ratio settings for outstanding reproduction of all broadcast formats on a wide variety of DTVs;

Dolby® Digital 5.1 channel audio decoding with digital optical audio output;

USB and data ports for connecting accessory devices;

Memory Stick™ media slot for convenient JPEG and MPEG1 file playback. It can also display customized slide show with MP3 file background music; and

A five device universal remote control.

The DHG-HDD100 and the DHG-HDD200 digital video receiver/recorders will be available this fall for about $700, and $800, respectively.