I got the 700 with the tuner for numerous reasons Vin......
After rebate at Sears it was only $50 more than the 500.
It has 2 -IEEE394 ports, and a Digital Optical out.
I BELIEVE it has a more option flash card reader-more formats.
It has an integrated tuner (as you know) and I do NOT have digital cable installed yet (ordered though- just no box), but I have it hooked through ant C ( digital) and I am able to recieve 5 movie channels and numerous others, and I also was able to watch the Patriots game using a piece of wire into that port(OTA).
The Pats game in HD was utterly fantastic!!
I have already gotten my $50 worth out of this tuner, and if for some stupid reason my cable go's down I will again utilize the tuner.....
For $50 it is a no brainer for me personally.

GL in your decision Vin, and enjoy whatever it is you get.

m

Well, I got my 51s700 today and have yet to really do any major tweaking (or spend alot of time in front of it as the kids jumped in to watch some dvds and eat popcorn).

First things I noted were that Dish 500 SD, although pixellated, looked better than I anticipated. DVD's on the otherhand, were also highly pixellated; hopefully, some of the tweaks I've seen in this forum will help.

Has anybody got link to a summary of things I should do to calibrate the system?

Next week, the CM4228 comes and I can see how HD looks :D

Originally posted by jsaliga
Guys,
I asked a question earlier that went unanswered: does this set perform some sort of video processing on 1080i signals? I don't know that it does or does not. I suspect that it does, because why else would I see stairstepping artifacts on 1080i source content (please accept it as fact when I say it isn't in the source)?

PS: Feel free to call me Jerome.

Have you tried asking Hitachi advanced technician(s)? 800-4-HITACHI during biz hours. Posting a good response (which may take a while) would be appreciated.

You may already know, but nicheflix has D theater rentals including DVE 1080i/720p.

Great thread. I have a few questions which I haven't seen covered yet...

My current setup is HD cable (component) and HD satellite (component) and XBox (Component, not HD). Here is what I'm wondering;

I have cable for HD locals only. Cable is missing CBS, which I can get OTA. Can I do this...
- HD Satellite to DVI (Input 1)
- HD XBox to component (Input 2) <-- 720p OK here?
- HD (unencrypted QAM) Cable (ANT C)
- HD OTA (ANT A or ANT B) <-- will this work?

If so, existing TV becomes den TV to make room for new Hitachi :-)

Oh yeah, I'm guessing firewire in input-only...

-Laudon

Originally posted by chrisspy
Have you tried asking Hitachi advanced technician(s)? 800-4-HITACHI during biz hours. Posting a good response (which may take a while) would be appreciated.
I actually found this information on the Hitachi website. The set does not perform any processing on 1080i signals, which is what I was hoping for.

My 65S500 was delivered a few hours ago; it was supposed to be delivered yesterday but the person who wrote the sales order made a mistake and set delivery from a store that doesn't deliver in my area. One brief call to the store manager got it corrected, but delivery was delayed a day. No harm no foul, I always say.

The set had to be seperated to get it in, but the delivery guys were very concerned at having to tilt the base half up about 60 degrees to clear a corner leading into the room. I told them as long as they were gentle with it there won't be a problem. They did a good job and handled the set with kid gloves.

I'll post more about this set once I get it fired up in a few hours. I have a D-VHS tape of a couple of CBS shows in HD (Cold Case and Hack) that I want to check out.

--Jerome

Originally posted by eldub1999
Great thread. I have a few questions which I haven't seen covered yet...

My current setup is HD cable (component) and HD satellite (component) and XBox (Component, not HD). Here is what I'm wondering;

I have cable for HD locals only. Cable is missing CBS, which I can get OTA. Can I do this...
- HD Satellite to DVI (Input 1)
- HD XBox to component (Input 2) <-- 720p OK here?
- HD (unencrypted QAM) Cable (ANT C)
- HD OTA (ANT A or ANT B) <-- will this work?

If so, existing TV becomes den TV to make room for new Hitachi :-)

Oh yeah, I'm guessing firewire in input-only...

-Laudon

Laudon, I believe only ANT C will do HD. Otherwise, the rest of it would be okay. Sooo...maybe a switch to control which input is used for ANT C? Or a component video switcher for Input 2 with the cable box and xbox. Does your cable box have an OTA antenna input?

Yeah, it kinda sucks, I thought I was getting a DVI input and 2 component inputs, but Input 1 is either DVI or component. So really, only 2 HD inputs besides the integrated tuner.

Matt

Originally posted by bigrig
Laudon, I believe only ANT C will do HD. Otherwise, the rest of it would be okay. Sooo...maybe a switch to control which input is used for ANT C? Or a component video switcher for Input 2 with the cable box and xbox. Does your cable box have an OTA antenna input?

Yeah, it kinda sucks, I thought I was getting a DVI input and 2 component inputs, but Input 1 is either DVI or component. So really, only 2 HD inputs besides the integrated tuner.

Matt

Arg! Thanks Matt.

I'm wondering when companies will realize that 3, even 4 HD-capable component inputs would be really useful. I've found a lot seem to do the ol' DVI 'or' component on Input 1 thing.

Seems either they have the inputs (Mitsubishi) or the 720p support (Hitachi).

Originally posted by eldub1999
Oh yeah, I'm guessing firewire in input-only...


It's in & out. The built-in ATSC tuner feeds a DVHS deck just fine.

Originally posted by bigrig
Laudon, I believe only ANT C will do HD. Otherwise, the rest of it would be okay. Sooo...maybe a switch to control which input is used for ANT C? Or a component video switcher for Input 2 with the cable box and xbox. Does your cable box have an OTA antenna input?

Yeah, it kinda sucks, I thought I was getting a DVI input and 2 component inputs, but Input 1 is either DVI or component. So really, only 2 HD inputs besides the integrated tuner.

Matt Bit of a kludge, but you CAN connect the DVI and component inputs on input 1 to different devices. DVI has priority so whenever that device is turned on it will be the active source. Audio is a separate wrinkle; this probably works only if you are using a home-theater setup for audio.

I just received a service manual on the 51S500 and noticed something familiar in the convergence procedure. Priot to writing to ROM, interpolation should be done by pressing the vid3 key on the remote control. Interpolation had to be done on my old Hitachi TV as part of convergence but I have never heard anyone mention it in this forum. anyway it doesn't work on my TV. Is ther another key that should be pressed? aAnyone know any more about this???

After waiting a while to power my 65S500 up after delivery yesterday, the set works just fine. But grayscale is out to lunch with low IRE values having way too much green. This does not come as much of a surprise. The focus was pretty good OOB, unlike the units I have seen in stores. If anything surprised me, it is that geometry is just about perfect as it is.

The focus, even though good, can be tightened up a little, I'm sure. I'll get to work on that and correcting the grayscale this coming weekend (or maybe tomorrow with all the snow expected to fall here today and tomorrow).

--Jerome

Jerome, thanks for the update....

As I've stated earlier in this thread I've been considering the 65S500/700 but have found, as you have, they look terrible on display at CC. I haven't forgotten Marc's comments in this regard but after visiting another CC store on Sunday I again walked away somewhat disheartened.

Although the 57F, as well as the 57S that were on display both looked fantastic, the 65S500 was very grainy in comparison, which of course got me back to thinking it was size related.

I was happy to read the mostly positive results you've posted so far and look forward to furthur updates.

Good luck with the new set!

Vin

Any of you experts have insight into this issue?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=357578

Originally posted by Vin
Although the 57F, as well as the 57S that were on display both looked fantastic, the 65S500 was very grainy in comparison, which of course got me back to thinking it was size related. There have been many reports over the past 2 years that the Hitachi 65" sets are not up to par of the 57" or 51" (these reports from both showroom and in-home experiences). Others are very happy with the 65. I have never calibrated a 65" Hit (only 61") so I cannot comment from experience. I'm not sure of the cause of this as Mits sets seem to lose nothing going from 55" to 65".

57" seems to be the sweet spot for Hitachi sets. If you need 65", it is worth taking a look at Mits.

Originally posted by Vin
Although the 57F, as well as the 57S that were on display both looked fantastic, the 65S500 was very grainy in comparison, which of course got me back to thinking it was size related.
I haven't noticed the picture apearing grainy on my set. I'm not sure this has much to do with size. And please take what I say with a grain of salt, because much of my experience is with CRT front projectors and not RPTVs.

I could be wrong, but it seems to me that unless the chassis of the 57" and 65" sets are different, they should perform roughly the same. Since a 7" tube platform is equally capable at both sizes, scales of economy would go right out the window if they did indeed use a different chassis. But keep in mind I am speaking from the FP world. For instance, a Sony 1272Q 7" CRT projector will perform just as well on a 60" wide screen as it will on a 70" wide screen. You will have some brightness fall off when increasing the screen size because you are spreading the available lumens over a wider area, and as you increase screen size further apparent resolution can fall off as well. But it seems to me that the difference between a 57" diagonal and 65" diagonal screen size is negligable for a 7" chassis.

Keep in mind that my viewing room is light controlled, so the amount of available light in a 65" set is more than enough to create a very bright image on the screen. My contrast setting is at 23, and that was adjusted with a PLUGE pattern, which would be very inadequate for viewing under room lights. I still need to get the grayscale ironed out and will do that as soon as I have time. Until this set is focused and the colorimetry dealt with it is really hard to say how good it will look. But I am reasonably impressed with it, much more than any of the Hitachi sets that I have seen in a store, and certainly more than I thought I would be.

If you buy from a place like Circuit City then there is really no risk involved. They will take a set back if you aren't happy with it or let you exchange it for something else. So it's like having a 30-day no-risk audition period.

--Jerome

I have only had one oppurtunity to calibrate the 65" S500 and I saw no issues with grain. I really hated the Protective Screen removal process since two of the magic focus sensors are permenately attached to the screen frame. From now one I will just disconnect everything from the circuit board.

But, the picture was fine none the less.

Bill

Jerome,

I am anxiously awaiting your review of your 65S500. I am about to purchase one of these beasts. How close can you comfortably sit without being inundated by DVD artifacts?

Thanks,

Grant

Thanks again Marc, Jerome and Bill for sharing your knowledge and experiences.....lots to consider. I will be doing more comparisons, including the Mits.

Vin

Originally posted by Deja Vu
Jerome,

I am anxiously awaiting your review of your 65S500. I am about to purchase one of these beasts. How close can you comfortably sit without being inundated by DVD artifacts?
Grant,

I don't know if I would wait around for a review from me, because there might not ever be one. All I want to do right now is tighten the focus and make a service mode adjustment to get rid of the excessive green at the bottom end of the grayscale. Fleshtones are a bit off as well. I plan on having Gregg Loewen come by to ISF this set and dial it in to perfection. I'd rather have a pro do with it instruments than trust my eye. Same deal on CRT front projectors, which is why I had Chuck Williams calibrate the NEC XG110 I used to own. I can tell you from that experience that having a pro do the work makes a big difference in the viewing experience. The calibration on the 65S500 probably won't happen until March. This set needs to be broken-in first and it was only delivered a few days ago.

As far as the size goes, the viewing distance in the room is 10 feet from the screen. Some people think that's too close for a 65" diagonal screen. But I've watched 80" wide screens on CRT FP setups from closer than that with no complaints. I'm not much of a DVD person, since so few have the sort of image quality that pleases me. I'm pretty much a HDTV convert and have been for a few years. I can say that I watched the Superbit relase of Starship Troopers on the set from my Denon DVD-2200 and the picture was rock solid with no visible artifacting. It was very clean looking, but keep in mind that this is a terrific transfer. I also watched about 30 minutes of Open Range on it, and was much less impressed. If you have a crappy DVD transfer than you can expect a crappy picture. Going up in screen size can magnify that, (I know you know this because of your considerable experience with digital FP setups). I have some DVDs that look fine on a 32" direct view, but put them on any projector and they look like crud. I don't think this set is any different.

Cheers,

--Jerome

Hi,
I've got my S700 receiver hooked up to an antenna for my local OTA HD reception. On at least two of the 8 or 9 stations I receive, I'm noticing significant problems with the audio not syncing with the video. I'm wondering if this could be a problem with the reciever, or are the SF Bay Area broadcasters just sloppy?

Thanks,

Andy

I notice this on some channels too.

Well after reading all the Tweaks ( especially the long 51F500 thread- thanks Mfusick for compiling and sharing that) I did a maual convergence in the service menu today ( should I say I did it 4 times, twice BEFORE I fixed overscan to 4.5% and twice after) and the picture is even better than it was. I had to fix the geometry with tape ( as I have seen here) as the top bowed toward the middle also, that took awhile.
I also refocused using the trimpots behind the front access panel. Blue was pretty blurry, green was pretty blurry, and red was a little blurry. Obviously blue is still a bit blurrier, but the differnce in detail was WELL worth the amount of effort I put into the set today.
The picture always looked great, but the geometry issue and a slightly soft pic( it looked great, but I knew it could be more detailed) were aggravating me after countless hours of watching it.
Looks much better now though, and I can whip through the convergence now no problem, I can see problems without even moving the cursor now ( it's nice when ya know what to look for), which makes things much easier.
I'll be tackling the service menu- aprt( F at least) and the S one also tommorrow. I also need to play with the red gun soon ( stripe it), as I can see plenty of red on the left side of the screen ( not too bad, but it's noticeable to me).....

Glad to hear that you are making out ok with your new set Jerome, I will also be calling Gregg to do a calibration on my set.

Thanks again guys,

m

Originally posted by ajlevine
Hi,
I've got my S700 receiver hooked up to an antenna for my local OTA HD reception. On at least two of the 8 or 9 stations I receive, I'm noticing significant problems with the audio not syncing with the video. I'm wondering if this could be a problem with the reciever, or are the SF Bay Area broadcasters just sloppy?

Thanks,

Andy

I get this, too...I think it might just be an issue with digital TV broadcasts?

See this thread - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=355037
Others have the problem with different TVs. Seems like a fairly common problem, though, I'm surprised I haven't seen more discussion of it here.

Matt

Originally posted by muzz
I also need to play with the red gun soon ( stripe it), as I can see plenty of red on the left side of the screen ( not too bad, but it's noticeable to me).....

I also noticed the left side of my screen is very slightly red. I first noticed it when there was a right to left pan shot of the sky with clouds. The sky/clouds would get slightly pinkish/red as they moved across the screen. Now I notice it at other times, its like a curse that I almost wish I'd never noticed. How does one go about fixing this?

Thanks,
PolkThug

Still waiting to hear from someone on Hitachi 51S500 interpolation procedure done during manual convergence. VID3 key in the VCR mode is supposed to begin the calculation or "interpolation" doesn't work on mine. I have read of other keys being used in different Hitachi models. Has anyone done interpolation sucessfully on the 51S500? and if so how didi you do it??
Thanks for the help
Jim

What is interpolation?

Hi! I've been lurking here for a few weeks but this is first post. Looked at a lot of RPTVs lately, including DLP, LCD and CRT. After looking and reading all the good info here, I'm leaning toward the Hitachi S500 or S700 series. I have two questions - my local cable company is just starting to offer HD this month so I don't know how much of it there is or the quality. Should I get a set with a built in tuner so that I can try OTA?

If the answer to that question is yes, then there are only a couple of choices: 57S700 or 57T700 (65 is probably too big for my situation). However, if a monitor is the way to go, then there seems to be a myriad of models to choose from (series X500, T500, S500, G500, F500, W500). A table that just had all the features listed with checkmarks for which models had which features would really help. Does a comparison like that exist anywhere? Thanks.

Hey guys,

Where are the instructions for Manual/electronic focus for the 51S700?

I saw them somewhere on here and can't find them again.

Thanks

Walt

Originally posted by wsm
Hi! I've been lurking here for a few weeks but this is first post. Looked at a lot of RPTVs lately, including DLP, LCD and CRT. After looking and reading all the good info here, I'm leaning toward the Hitachi S500 or S700 series. I have two questions - my local cable company is just starting to offer HD this month so I don't know how much of it there is or the quality. Should I get a set with a built in tuner so that I can try OTA?

If the answer to that question is yes, then there are only a couple of choices: 57S700 or 57T700 (65 is probably too big for my situation). However, if a monitor is the way to go, then there seems to be a myriad of models to choose from (series X500, T500, S500, G500, F500, W500). A table that just had all the features listed with checkmarks for which models had which features would really help. Does a comparison like that exist anywhere? Thanks.

The HD tuner will do OTA and I think will work for most cable providers, too. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

As for the comparison, check the last page of this - http://www.hitachi.us/tv/resource/prod_bro/pdf/hitachi_2003_Nat_PTV.pdf

Matt

Originally posted by bigrig
The HD tuner will do OTA and I think will work for most cable providers, too. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

As for the comparison, check the last page of this - [link was here]
Matt

Matt,

Thanks for the link to the comparison. That's just what I was looking for! :)

Marc, in the 51S500 Service Manual it says to perform an interpolation step
prior to writing to ROM, then recheck convergence, adjust as necessary, then write to ROM and finally initialize.
What it does exactly I don't know but on my old Hitachi 50" Rp TV it had the same step and seemed to lock in the convergence much better. I didn't have to touch up convergence but maybe once a year. It stayed perfect.
Jim

We are looking to get a 65S500 soon.

Our viewing distance will be around 9-10ft. Is that too close? Should we drop down to the 57S500?

We will only be watching DVD and HDTV, not SD on this set.

I would appreciate everyone's comments.

Thanks!

David.

David,

You might want to back track through some of the earlier comments in this thread.

Please check this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3283975#post3283975) for my thoughts about screen size. Others might feel differently.

--Jerome

Originally posted by dd110914
We are looking to get a 65S500 soon.
Our viewing distance will be around 9-10ft. Is that too close? Should we drop down to the 57S500?
We will only be watching DVD and HDTV, not SD on this set.
I would appreciate everyone's comments.


Hi David,

I've got the 57S700 and I use it only for DVD and HD. I'm about 10 feet away and wouldn't mind getting another foot back, but I can't because of room constraints. I think a 65 at 10 feet might be a little tiring on the eyes, IMO.

Regards,
PolkThug

Originally posted by dd110914
We are looking to get a 65S500 soon.

Our viewing distance will be around 9-10ft. Is that too close? Should we drop down to the 57S500?

We will only be watching DVD and HDTV, not SD on this set.

I would appreciate everyone's comments.

Thanks!

David.
I sit 8' away from a 57" myself, it is very close with crappy programming ( still looks pretty good though), but it looks awesome with DVD/HD content.

IMO 65" is probably a lil on the large size for 9-10', but other opinions will vary....
Most folks think my 57 is too big for 8', but I like it.

BTW the ota tuner works great on OTA and cable(piece of wire and comcast- in Ant C port for digital signals), but is not designed to unscramble, all locals look fine and any digital signal looks as good as my Motorola 6200.... but it obviously doesn't get as many channels.

I have a 65S700 and sit about 14 feet away. I couldn't imagine watching it at 9-10 feet away. It would be too big and not as clear for me.

Source is certainly a big part of how close you can get comfortably. Another consideration is light output. Unlike a front projection setup which shoots to a screen from behind you, a rptv shoots to a mirror then through a screen to your eyes. The effect is a much brighter picture (why an rp set is prefererable to fp setup in a daylit room) but will also give headaches when watching at night. Distance and room lighting can eliminate some of this as can proper calibration....but the difference will always be there. Most consider bias lighting a must but at too close a distance I'm not sure it would have an effect.

Thanks to everyone on their advice regarding viewing distance!

I am going to try the 65S500. Since I am getting it at CC, I figure I can always exchange it for the 57" if it ends up being too large.

Question for anyone who has bought an RPTV from CC.

Will they usually come down off their listed price if asked?

Thanks again!!

David.

I need some quick help. My son who is 600 miles away is picking up a 51S500 from CC today. He is somewhat "video Challenged" and I need to find some ballpark out of the box menu settings for this set (contrast,brightness,color,sharpness,etc.). I know every set is different and it depends on enviroment etc.. I am looking for a starting point and would appreciate any quick help you guys could provide. I have been thru this whole thread this morning and didn't see anything off hand...
Thank You, Gerry

Originally posted by ggw2000
I need some quick help. My son who is 600 miles away is picking up a 51S500 from CC today. He is somewhat "video Challenged" and I need to find some ballpark out of the box menu settings for this set (contrast,brightness,color,sharpness,etc.). I know every set is different and it depends on enviroment etc.. I am looking for a starting point and would appreciate any quick help you guys could provide. I have been thru this whole thread this morning and didn't see anything off hand...
Thank You, Gerry

I've got mine something like this -

contrast 30
brightness 50 (maybe lower at night)
color 45 (and standard)
sharpness 30
all "enhancements" off

This produces a good picture, and hopefully low risk of burn-in.

Matt

Bigrig, thanks for your response! This should help alot... Gerry

Originally posted by dd110914

Question for anyone who has bought an RPTV from CC.
Will they usually come down off their listed price if asked?
Thanks again!!
David.

They should take $100 off. If you buy the City Advantage warranty, they will for sure. Also watch the price over the next 30 days after you buy it, if it goes on sale, you can bring your receipt in and they will give you the difference.

Regards,
PolkThug

After months of lurking and shopping, I pulled the trigger on 51S500.

Actually my story starts with a 50V00, I went to HH Gregg to buy a 51S500, but got such a good deal on the V500, I changed my mind. (Shocked I got the wife's buy-in) The fan noise was driving me crazy, volumes had to be in the low 20's to cancel out the noise. Several days later, it went back to HH Gregg and I was set on waiting until the fall to buy again. The next night we are out at BB and my wife says "we can't go back to the old TV", I almost fell over. Quick note on that old TV, GE 27 inch from the early 80's which you couldn't see the scroll on any channel. (BTW, not my main TV, just used for PS2.) So, back to HH we go, I think the third night in a row now, we got the 51s500 for a fair price. I was a little disappointed that I couldn't get free delivery out of them, but oh well. TV arrived Friday, looks great, made a few adjustments in the DMAC menu and PQ has improved with SD. Cable Co comes out Thursday to add HD, I can't wait.

Thanks to everyone here for the detailed posts regarding TVs and tweaks, it has been a huge help in making my decision and already made a difference in my PQ.

BTW, even in SD the Superbowl looked great.

I've seen a couple of posts about the Firewire ports on the S700s but was wondering if it outputs any of the DVI or component inputs (doubtful). I'm assuming it only outputs the built in OTA ASTC signal, but has anyone ever tried the other inputs? It would be great if I could record cable from my Pace DVI equipped cable STB. If it did I'd buy a D-VHS machine tonight.

Originally posted by obie_fl
I've seen a couple of posts about the Firewire ports on the S700s but was wondering if it outputs any of the DVI or component inputs (doubtful). I'm assuming it only outputs the built in OTA ASTC signal, but has anyone ever tried the other inputs? It would be great if I could record cable from my Pace DVI equipped cable STB. If it did I'd buy a D-VHS machine tonight. To produce Firewire outputs from component or DVI inputs it would have to have an MPEG encoder, which I'm sure it doesn't. And if could do what you wish Hitachi would be violating the license agreement for DVI-HDCP.

problems -

*****

fan noise (yep, I have it, seems worse than most too)

Has anyone really resolved this issue? I saw on another thread that sears tech replaced the fan and added sound dampening material and that reduced it, but didn't completely fix it. I must have a loud one because I can hear this thing across the room 15 20 ft away, and when movies go into quiet spots, its annoying to say the least, now I can't stop hearing this thing and I have only had it a day. I can hear it during normal movie sound at a medium level.

I have a sears tech coming out but I would be he would only replace the fan with the same one... and not really fix anything. I on that thread that it was a 1.5" X 1.5" 5v fan, anyone just get a better replacement and splice the wires? Or has hitachi actually addressed the probem with a better, quiet fan? I have sent an e-mail to their customer service, called them and they referred my to sears customer service. I have a sears tech coming out on the 9th of feb to start the fix process (if possible). Any leads would help, like the set, hate that noise.

I can't believe they wouldn't change that part or recommend a fix for their customers, seems like a BIG problem to me. I have taken some time to have a quiet running HT, now I have this f-in 2 dollar fan wreaking havoc with my 7K worth of equipment. I see some say that theirs is very quiet... all over the map with this issue but I haven't run across anyone that says, "here is the fix", besides swapping it for a non-fan unit... I want the 57 with the tuner I guess. I got such an outrageous price I just can't return it...

*****

screen seems all over the place when I view SD when unit is turned on..

When I turn it on the volume bar from my reciever is displayed across the bottom of screen when I turn up (or down) the volume. Its cut off and I can't see it very well. Later on it seems to get better and be in the correct postion in full view. I assume this is a break in issue but not sure, anyone? Maybe a warm up issue.

*****

If someone that has a very good picture and much experience with the set could post the 5 or 10 top tweaks and reasons behind them that would help... Like say "1) lower contrast to 20 - 30 area because..." I don't want to goto the level of adjusting the individual values but as far as the video menu goes and the convergence / color calibration etc, that would help. Or direct me to a good post? I have read some of this thread but got tired!

*****

one gripe... of course I have everything built in the wall, boy I should have ran a pipe over to the TV from the built in cabinent that holds the components. Now I have spdif coming out of TV to receiver so HD content audio can get to speakers. Didn't plan on that cable... Don't want to rip into that again.. Maybe I will build a house and move...

Originally posted by brastaj
*****

If someone that has a very good picture and much experience with the set could post the 5 or 10 top tweaks and reasons behind them that would help... Like say "1) lower contrast to 20 - 30 area because..." I don't want to goto the level of adjusting the individual values but as far as the video menu goes and the convergence / color calibration etc, that would help. Or direct me to a good post? I have read some of this thread but got tired!

***** LOL

How much $$$ are you offerring? Sounds like a service you should pay for (whenever you want someone to put the work and effort in for you). There is tons of FREE information available to those who are diligent and willing to read and search.

Thanks for making my argument for me. Thats the point of this thread isn't it? For owners of the set(s) to share info? However the 500+ posts I have already found for this type of tv etc are a bit overwhelming, esp when some of them conflict and you see stuff like, every set needs specialized tweaking etc.

Did I come to the wrong place? I have done some DD, I have read about 300 posts with varied info on some tweaks, but have not found a posting putting it all together (yet). Seems like there are some out here that know a lot about it that may have posted the info already but I just am not finding or searching on the correct term. Seems like a lot of searching already when someone may just have a link, doesn't seem like too much to ask, for a link to an existing post?

Sorry for asking.

By the way, on my fan problem, I will take pics of the procedure and the fan in question if I get the opportunity. I am not sure what I will do but I have already done some searching on this and I may just by a fan that is the same size but quiet and replace it myself. Hopefully the tech will solve this but if not, I will just do it myself, and share what I did... not that anyone has to ask me to do it... because I am a decent guy and don't want everyone else to go through the pain themselves.

Originally posted by brastaj
By the way, on my fan problem, I will take pics of the procedure and the fan in question if I get the opportunity. I am not sure what I will do but I have already done some searching on this and I may just by a fan that is the same size but quiet and replace it myself. Hopefully the tech will solve this but if not, I will just do it myself, and share what I did... not that anyone has to ask me to do it... because I am a decent guy and don't want everyone else to go through the pain themselves.
Definitely let us know if you take this on. I'd really like to know what is involved in replacing the fan and what kind of fan is in there. I'm not brave enough to be the first to dive in, plus the fan noise doesn't really bother me much. I can hear the fan and think it's louder than it should be but it doesn't bother me. I'm not afraid to take stuff apart or modify electronics. I'm a PC builder/tweaker/programmer first, home theater comes second.

I read that someone had a sears tech replace it with the same Hitachi fan. If a sears tech could replace it I'm sure most of us could.

Here's two links that should get you started on tweaks. They are still long threads and may leave out some basics but everything is there. Searches should answer most of your questions.

Hitachi 51F500 Tweaks (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=273639)

Hitachi tweaks Q&A thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=300466)

Originally posted by brastaj
.... and you see stuff like, every set needs specialized tweaking etc. I'm someone who believes in that statement...so I can't help you there.:cool:

Many of these tweaks are likely better organized to paid members over at www.hometheaterspot.com

OOps, I did it - lost magic focus doing DCAM convergence and can't get it back. This may not be the usual case of forgetting to save it. I think I inadvertantly toggled into 'static mode' by doing something wrong on the remote. Some of the buttons seem to have functions not mentioned in the service manual. The channel button, for example, shifts the adjustment point around the screen in a growing spiral out from the center. This is way easier than moving with the number keys.

Anyway, I've repeatedly pressed the blue reset button. It will get me into DCAM, but the usual save/exit sequence doesn't have any effect. I've been following this sequence:

1. blue reset button
2. check convergence
3. press [pip mode], screen says "ROM WRITE?", press [pip mode], green dots come up.
4. press [mute], [pip mode], [pip channel]
5. This SHOULD start magic focus initialization (right?). Instead it just goes back to the convergence screen, no magic focus intialization. It's like that functionality got switched off. Convergence is still good after powering off, so it looks like the settings from step 3 are sticking.

Pressing magic focus button after powering off brings up the "static mode" and the infamous series of crossed lines. Anybody know how to get the magic focus back under these circumstnaces? Help much appreciated, thanks in advance,

-Dave

New Hitachi
I am in the market for a new Hitachi. I have been to the local Ultimate Electronics and CC....and at both places the 51S500's did not look very good at all. Both were grainy and just not quite as sharp as some of the other cheaper models they were next to. Even the 51F500 looked quite abit better. I know the ultervision sets are some of the best out there...so is it just that both places did not have them set up right?
Thanks

Originally posted by jkerbo
New Hitachi
I am in the market for a new Hitachi. I have been to the local Ultimate Electronics and CC....and at both places the 51S500's did not look very good at all. Both were grainy and just not quite as sharp as some of the other cheaper models they were next to. Even the 51F500 looked quite abit better. I know the ultervision sets are some of the best out there...so is it just that both places did not have them set up right?
Thanks

Thats my guess, I setup the 51s500 and the 57" in the stores you mentioned, and TBO they were WAY OFF on the showroom....
I do not believe you will be disappointed at all with that set. I got the 57S700 and the picture is great after minor tweaking.

Have fun!!
m

I did a search and could not find the recommended viewing distance for a 57 inch HDTV. This will be for the Bedroom with apx 65% SD viewing, 25% hdtv and 10% dvd viewing. I had gone to CC and looked at the 57 inch S70011 ft away and it looks fine BUT I can not get them to set up a reg direct TV channel to compare the set at 11 ft. This is my most concern. I going toward the widescreen because of the future programming. Are there some guidelines anywhere I can go to or anybody have any recommendations for viewing SD on a 57 inch set. I have the room so I want the biggest screen I can get.

Go to hitachi.us/tv/discover/techadv/tech_ad_proj01.shtml and scroll down to viewing distance and watch the Quicktime movie. I Have the 65S700 and sit 11 feet from the set.

Thanks...Since you have the 65 incher how do you think it would be with 57 inch viewing the SD picture with cable or DTV. My cable is actually pretty good?. I am trying to get as many opinions as possible since I cant get Sears or CC to get me a cable or DTV Standard Def feed on the 57 inch

Just don't watch any HD and you'll be fine with SD.

Once you've seen HD on it, the SD will look like crap. ;)

I'm watching a 51" from 11' and SD looks okay...

Matt

So with that comment, you are suggesting that I stay with the 51 inch instead of the 57 inch or maybe the Mits 55 incher, since I will be watching SD in the bedroom about 65% of the time. I have a 2 yr old Pioneer 64 inch in the LR.(from Costco).that I love but the 53 inch Pioneer are hard to find. My 20 year old Mits 35 incher in the bedroom finally hit the dust so I am looking at going bigger. I am looking at going with RPTV that has the best line doubler for SD TV and this is extremely hard to compare since none of the Retailers out there have it hooked up for SD signals!!

I know the Mits has supposely improved their line doubler for SD tv BUT I have to rely on what I read and hear form forums like this. As any body done a comparison on the best line doubler on the 55 to 57 inch TVs?

It used to be Pioneer?

SD looks pretty crappy on any big widescreen TV, that's why you are getting resistance at the retail level.

Originally posted by PolkThug
SD looks pretty crappy on any big widescreen TV, that's why you are getting resistance at the retail level.
Exactly. I wouldn't buy one of these sets if you mainly watch SD on it. If you watch mostly SD cable, get a large direct view tube. I'd only get one of these large HD sets if you watch mostly DVD or HD content. That's me though. I just got the 51S700 and watch probably 80% DVD at least, maybe even higher.

I agree that the tube has the best SD picture and I was already to plunge for the 300 lb Sony 40 inch TV BUT I have read on many forums that the Sony 40 inch has degauge and color promblems in the corner of the tube on just about all of these sets and they have not corrected the problem yet. I cant see paying that kind of $$$ for that set with serious problems. And I want at least a 40 inch screen or bigger

Since I got this set about all I watch is HD Cable and DVD's.

Originally posted by BMELVIN
So with that comment, you are suggesting that I stay with the 51 inch instead of the 57 inch or maybe the Mits 55 incher,

Nah, that wasn't what I was suggesting. I wouldn't mind having a 57" set at this distance.

I was saying that SD will look okay. But it looks like crap when compared to HD. Am I contradicting myself? :p

Matt

I have a question for everyone. What are the measures you take or have taken to prevent burn in?

Turn down the contrast and watch 4:3 in wide mode (always).

Once I got used to wide mode (which really isn't that distorting, imho), I didn't even notice that the image is slightly distorted. Your mileage may vary, however.

Originally posted by BMELVIN
I did a search and could not find the recommended viewing distance for a 57 inch HDTV. This will be for the Bedroom with apx 65% SD viewing, 25% hdtv and 10% dvd viewing. I had gone to CC and looked at the 57 inch S70011 ft away and it looks fine BUT I can not get them to set up a reg direct TV channel to compare the set at 11 ft. This is my most concern. I going toward the widescreen because of the future programming. Are there some guidelines anywhere I can go to or anybody have any recommendations for viewing SD on a 57 inch set. I have the room so I want the biggest screen I can get.

As has been stated there are some "Guidelines" that folks go by to judge the "correct ;) " distance away from a set...

I have a 57S700 and sit 8' away from it with digital cable ( looked good with analog cable through the tuner as well), and unless the channel has alot of noise in it ( BTW I notice this noise on a direct view TV in another room also) it will look great. My GF had no interest in my new TV, but after watching it for awhile she has become spoiled herself, and the TV she usually watches is a 36" DV that looks pretty good in it's own right.

At 11' I personally would get the 57 over the 51...... you get used to the size after it has been there for awhile.
I think almost everyone will tell ya that.

Have fun

m

Thanks for your response .. I am now looking at the 57 inch set and think that is the way to go especially when I just remembered I can watch the NBC, CBS and FOX and ABC stations with the OTA tuner. Even when they are not broadcasting the true HD material the OTA signal is so much better and the signal is so much clearer than the Analog cable signal. I will just have to get use to watching it with the black bars on the sides.

Nope, the 4:3 expanded mode looks pretty good to me on most stuff........ I very rarely watch it in 4:3.
You can probably find the 700 for about 50-100 more than the 500 series, and ya get 2 IEEE94 ports, optical out and the tuner.....
No brainer for me personally.
Plus the 57" splits into 2 pieces ( very easily) for moving it around.
Obviously the HD and better dvd will look better than the SD, but a good SD signal will still look good.

GL and have fun BM
I don't believe you will be disappointed.

m

Originally posted by BMELVIN
I know the Mits has supposely improved their line doubler for SD tv BUT I have to rely on what I read and hear form forums like this. As any body done a comparison on the best line doubler on the 55 to 57 inch TVs?

It used to be Pioneer?

From my observations of the latest models
1)Toshiba
2)Mitsubishi
3)Hitachi

Very close this year as Mits and Hitachi have made improvements to pull them closer to Toshiba and Pioneer.

The day I throw down 2000+ to see a line in the middle of the screen is the day I kill myself....

Sorry....

Got mine day after new years from CC. They had a deal where it was actually cheaper than the s500. Went back 3 weeks later and picked up a $200 price adjustment.

TV looks great. Can't quite understand the benefit of the virtual HD though.

For those of you wondering if regualr tv looks good, it does. But you'll quickly get used to the HD broadcasts and fell that regular tv looks bad. I have a cable hookup through Comcast, definately get their HD box if you have them. Reason being, they give you additional digital channels for your local affiliates, so even when not broadcasting in HD they are still digital, just like our DirecTV friends have always enjoyed. Difference is no box to buy. ANT C does pull in HD signals, but couldn't find an antenna that wiorked real well, even though I live 3 miles from an ABC transmitter, I couldn't get their signal.

4:3 expanded is what I usually leave it on for regular tv, fills the screen not too much of the picture is lost or distorted. Much better than others I looked at.

Have a ReplayTV hooked up to it. Anyone else? Only suggestion is definaltey record in high quality if you use one.

Question: Sales guy said that Hitachi makes 80(?)% of all components used for all brands of Projection tv's yet saves their best for their ultra vison line. This true?

Just wish they included the AVNet like on the swx20b. ANyone know of a good universal remote?

Originally posted by jcv229
Question: Sales guy said that Hitachi makes 80(?)% of all components used for all brands of Projection tv's yet saves their best for their ultra vison line. This true? Urban legend

Well it may have been stretched a bit but.......

http://www.businesswire.com/webbox/bw.061603/231675286.htm

" Completely Hitachi

One reason Hitachi is known for creating the best picture quality in the industry is its massive research and development resources. As one of the largest consumer electronics manufacturers, Hitachi is continuously innovating new television technologies and integrating these advancements into its products. Since Hitachi designs and produces all of the core components used to build projection TVs including lenses, picture tubes and signal processors, the company offers a level of integration that is unmatched by any other projection television manufacturer.
"Hitachi's ownership of the core projection television technologies creates products with the newest advancements and optimized performance," said Leo Delaney, vice president, marketing for Hitachi America, Ltd., Home Electronics Division. "Seamless integration and cutting edge technology continues to set Hitachi televisions apart from the market." "

I bought my 65s500 back a few months ago, I love it to death but I feel something is missing. My audio setup is very good for my living conditions. The picture must be my main concern. I have the picture up-converted to 1080i, when switching to 540p I notice little to no difference. However, I've goofed with all the video settings, and found a nice picture I like. Sometimes I'll randomly change a setting and be like Whoa thats alot better. Maybe I'm just blind. I want to use it to its full potential. Do I buy a dvd player such as the Samsung that up-converts the signal, which I'm assuming my tv already does so. But I could be wrong when I read that the upconverter in the tv isn't as good as say the samsung. Also, I turned on the tv's internal speakers one day and was amazed at how well they work, and noticed right when I received the tv it lacked the -/+ cable for center channel. Whats the best way to hook this up to a receiver? Also I'm guessing at the number of people that have a s700 that my s500 doesn't support OTA HD tv, is this true? Also, I tried to research my cable situation, comcast only supports Component out of their STB, should I just forget about DVI, one of the main reasons I blew more cha-ching into this tv? They have the output I believe but it's not yet supported. How unfortunate. Also, I'm a ReplayTV customer, and have been for the past 5 years or more I'd say. Is there a button I'm missing to skip 30 seconds ahead? My box skips commercials but sometimes its hit or miss. I would love to toss all my other remotes away with just the Hitachi one, it is just lacking that button, A volume control for my receiver, and an input changer for my receiver - all buttons I would think Hitachi should have planned for, for an ultimate remote control. But most affordable remotes <300 bucks don't seem to offer much but fun programming all of this.

Sorry for the long post, I love the tv and have just held all my questions inside for a very long time,

Tim

Get an hdtv box and your picture worries will end. There is no picture benifit to dvi connection on a crt based display (any brand) Component hd is awesome. DVI provides future compatibility for devices that might only output 1080i on dvi such as hd dvd players. s500 doesnt have an ota hd tuner...that's the difference between s500 and s700. No device remote covers all functions of other devices. For a tv remote the hitachi is a good one but for multiple devices get a harmony or pronto. 1080i/540p on the virtual hd are pretty much the same. If you want to use the full potential of the sets picture you need hd ...a reciever, dvhs and dtheater tapes or wait for hd dvd. Thats the bottom line ...every thing else pales in comparison.

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
Get an hdtv box and your picture worries will end. There is no picture benifit to dvi connection on a crt based display (any brand) Component hd is awesome. DVI provides future compatibility for devices that might only output 1080i on dvi such as hd dvd players.

So does component do 1080i? I'd like to get Comcast's HD TV but it only supports Component. Also if the tv upconverts to 1080i (Virtual HD), do you really need a dvd box that just upconverts to 1080i? I'm confused, because there's a DVD called Extreme Terminator and it says it supports 720p and 1080i I believe. You can't just pop this in any DVD player can you?

Also can you hook up a Replay TV (I have a 5040 with a 80 gig HD added in) to the HDTV STB as well as have a DVI or component out to the tv?

Originally posted by nuxan
So does component do 1080i? I'd like to get Comcast's HD TV but it only supports Component. Also if the tv upconverts to 1080i (Virtual HD), do you really need a dvd box that just upconverts to 1080i? I'm confused, because there's a DVD called Extreme Terminator and it says it supports 720p and 1080i I believe. You can't just pop this in any DVD player can you?

Also can you hook up a Replay TV (I have a 5040 with a 80 gig HD added in) to the HDTV STB as well as have a DVI or component out to the tv?

Yes, component does 1080i. (1080i component = 1080i dvi) Properly calibrated, there is no PQ gain with dvi over component. (Remember, DVI wasn't created to give us better PQ, it was created for copyright protection)

You don't need to 'upconvert' twice.

Extreme Terminator was meant for the PC. However I bet you could work some magic if your vid card has a DVI out. Does anyone here have experience with the XT dvd?

Regards,
PolkThug

Also when using hd sourced 1080i the hitachi scaler is not used (virtual hd) it is bypassed. There is a HUGE difference between upscaled sd material (virtual hd 1080i) and true hd 1080i source material. If you saw the superbowl, grammys lion king se, nhl all stars in hd and had the chance to switch from sd (upscaled to 1080i) to the hd feed you would find it hard to watch sd again ...I know I do.....HD is THAT much better ....especially on a good big screen set. Get it ....you won't regret it. The difference is massive.

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
Also when using hd sourced 1080i the hitachi scaler is not used (virtual hd) it is bypassed. There is a HUGE difference between upscaled sd material (virtual hd 1080i) and true hd 1080i source material. If you saw the superbowl, grammys lion king se, nhl all stars in hd and had the chance to switch from sd (upscaled to 1080i) to the hd feed you would find it hard to watch sd again ...I know I do.....HD is THAT much better ....especially on a good big screen set. Get it ....you won't regret it. The difference is massive.

Ok, if you are watching HD using component, and you have a replaytv that accepts RCA, do most STB's accept two outputs? One for Direct TV Quality and one for your PVR? I'd paid a lot of money for my ReplayTV, this is including upgrading to 5040 from a showstopper, I love this device.

Thanks

Originally posted by PolkThug
Yes, component does 1080i. (1080i component = 1080i dvi) Properly calibrated, there is no PQ gain with dvi over component. (Remember, DVI wasn't created to give us better PQ, it was created for copyright protection)

You don't need to 'upconvert' twice.

Extreme Terminator was meant for the PC. However I bet you could work some magic if your vid card has a DVI out. Does anyone here have experience with the XT dvd?

Regards,
PolkThug

I'm really curious about a TV hooked up to a Home Theater. One question I have is, does the picture look good on downloaded movies? For example, You download a divx movie, from what I'm guessing the format is the same as a normal DVD. Would the computer gain quality or be the same as my 65s500 upconverting it? That brings up a good point using the Terminator DVD through a computer and putting it on the TV it could look really good! One more thing, is there any "true" DVD players out there that would do this for the Terminator DVD and future DVD's or is this just technology lagging behind what customers want? :)

Tim

1. Componenent 1080i is not equal to dvi 1080i. DVI is digital, so it isn't subject to RF or any other interference. Component is. From DVD-DVI, signal stays all digital. In Component it is converted to Analog.

2. DVI DVD players. I have seen the Bravo D1 (own it) and the samsung (sister owned, is taking back) connected to my tv. The Bravo looked better. The samsung was really dark. The bravo does have a long loading time.

3. My 65s700 came from the factory with the left side of the screen 'warmer' than the right. When movie credits scroll, the are almost a cream color on the left and a 'snow' white on the right. Really weird. Service guy is coming out soon.

4. Having really hard time getting my HTPC to connect at resolutions I desire. 1280x720 for one.

Tony

Originally posted by tandersn
1. Componenent 1080i is not equal to dvi 1080i. DVI is digital, so it isn't subject to RF or any other interference. Component is. From DVD-DVI, signal stays all digital. In Component it is converted to Analog.

2. DVI DVD players. I have seen the Bravo D1 (own it) and the samsung (sister owned, is taking back) connected to my tv. The Bravo looked better. The samsung was really dark. The bravo does have a long loading time.

3. My 65s700 came from the factory with the left side of the screen 'warmer' than the right. When movie credits scroll, the are almost a cream color on the left and a 'snow' white on the right. Really weird. Service guy is coming out soon.

4. Having really hard time getting my HTPC to connect at resolutions I desire. 1280x720 for one.

Tony

1... If you have DVI does your tv support both DVD-I and DVD-D, and what are the differences between these two? Touching #2, did the bravo come with a DVI cable, or not. If so was it DVD-I or DVD-D, and can you confirm the same on the samsung was it DVD-I or DVD-D.

4. Which video card do you have in your HTPC? I've got a ATI Radeon 9700 Pro, with DVI Out, however I've never bought a cable to hook up the computer to the PC, I'm interested in playing some games on the widescreen.

#3, Sorry man! That sounds rough, on my sony tv in the basement (I have a 53", unsure of the model) and it makes Arcs from the center of the tv upward during credits, it is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. However it only does it during credits that I know of, and never thought to have someone look at it. Anyways, I never use that tv now that I have my 65s500. :)

Thanks

Originally posted by tandersn
1. Componenent 1080i is not equal to dvi 1080i. DVI is digital, so it isn't subject to RF or any other interference. Component is. From DVD-DVI, signal stays all digital. In Component it is converted to Analog.


I agree with you. But strictly from a PQ standpoint, if the settings are the same on both your Hitachi inputs, cables shielded, etc., a component cable can produce the exact same 1080i picture as the 1080i picture from the DVI path.

Regards,
PolkThug

Here's what Monster says about DVI cables.

"Most ordinary DVI cables are prone to impedance variances and loss of signal strength, while poor shielding causes the cable to radiate radio frequency and electromagnetic interference out to the rest of your system. As a result, you’ll notice blurred images, and a loss of color fidelity and image detail. "

no affil.

Regards,
PolkThug

The hitachi crts are analog displays. Feed it a dvi digital signal and it's converted to analog at the set. So no benifit from feeding dvi. The Bravo player is known for having a poor component output stage which forces you to use dvi. Given a set of well made component cables compared to similar dvi cable both using a device with good output stage for both and feeding an analog display device you wont see a difference. DVI will be a superior delivery method on a fixed pixel display with direct pixel mapping.
The stb you pick may or may not have a simultaneous svideo and component out ...my motorola dsr 500 has all outputs active ...the echostar 6000 doesn't. Look into this before buying.

Originally posted by PolkThug
Here's what Monster says about DVI cables.

"Most ordinary DVI cables are prone to impedance variances and loss of signal strength, while poor shielding causes the cable to radiate radio frequency and electromagnetic interference out to the rest of your system. As a result, you’ll notice blurred images, and a loss of color fidelity and image detail. "
PolkThug

I don't believe that. I believe they are saying that to try and say their DVI cables are better than "most ordinary" dvi cables. Ever watch HD Over the air broadcasts? What happens when you don't get the signal, it blocks up and then shuts off. The interference they are talking about can only apply to an anolog signal. Maybe they mean the analog part of a DVI-I connecter. (A dvi connecter that has both)

Someone with more expertise in DVI and more credentials than I could prove it better.

There is some info here http://www.pacificcable.com/DVI_Tutorial.htm

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
The hitachi crts are analog displays. Feed it a dvi digital signal and it's converted to analog at the set. So no benifit from feeding dvi. The Bravo player is known for having a poor component output stage which forces you to use dvi. Given a set of well made component cables compared to similar dvi cable both using a device with good output stage for both and feeding an analog display device you wont see a difference. DVI will be a superior delivery method on a fixed pixel display with direct pixel mapping.
The stb you pick may or may not have a simultaneous svideo and component out ...my motorola dsr 500 has all outputs active ...the echostar 6000 doesn't. Look into this before buying.

Can you confirm that the internal operations of the TV operate in an an analog state? The manual says that 'virtual HD 1080p analyzes every pixel and the 26 surround pixels' and they use the word pixel, which implies digital. So that would mean (using component) you would be going D to A, then in the TV A to D to analyze and scale, then output to the CRT's (so back to A). I am not saying I am sure or an expert, and I haven't seen a good component feed compared to my DVI. Yes the Bravo does have bad Component out. Component isn't better than DVI technically. But it may be so little of an improvement that it wouldn't be discernable. I am actually considering buying a Computer video card that does have component out, because that would solve me stupid PNP video problem.

Tony

Originally posted by nuxan
1... If you have DVI does your tv support both DVD-I and DVD-D, and what are the differences between these two? Touching #2, did the bravo come with a DVI cable, or not. If so was it DVD-I or DVD-D, and can you confirm the same on the samsung was it DVD-I or DVD-D.

4. Which video card do you have in your HTPC? I've got a ATI Radeon 9700 Pro, with DVI Out, however I've never bought a cable to hook up the computer to the PC, I'm interested in playing some games on the widescreen.

#3, Sorry man! That sounds rough, on my sony tv in the basement (I have a 53", unsure of the model) and it makes Arcs from the center of the tv upward during credits, it is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. However it only does it during credits that I know of, and never thought to have someone look at it. Anyways, I never use that tv now that I have my 65s500. :)

Thanks

1. "MY" TV only supports DVI-D, same with Bravo and Samsung. The difference, physically, the DVI-I will have 4 pins around the big flat pin. These four pins, in conjunction with a few of the others, carry an analog RGB (like VGA 15pin) signal. This would be subject to interference. http://www.networktechinc.com/dvi.html

I read in another post that it was 'against some kind rule' to output RGB from a DVD player.

The Bravo did not come with DVI cable, the Samsung did.

I am using the Geforce 3 T200 video card. It was easy to get it to display, hard to get it to display the res I wanted.

Tony

You're implying more D/A conversions than I stated in my post. CRT is an analog display medium. All inputs from all sources digital and analog are analog at the screen. Processes like scaling are done in the digital domain but ultimately the displays output is analog. All crt based sets are analog displays. This doesn't make them inferior to a fixed pixel digital display. Many videophiles find crt to be the best display type for many reasons. As stated dvi was developed as a copy protected method and for that reason it's good to have but as for being a superior connection for crt ..it's not.

I have been reading this thread and many others in this forum and they are really helpful. I have 51s700 and quite happy with the PQ I get after manual/electrostatic focus and tweaks in ISF menu on red push and ghosting.

A few questions remain though...

1. After setting the color using both Avia and DVE, I still have blue background when it is supposed to be grey. Especially when watching a movie (both DVD and TV shows such as CSI), the dark scenes have blue tone all over it. It makes the overall picture really dark and when someone wears a blue suit, it's difficult to see the details. My contrast is set to 38 and brightness at 60 for SD, and for HD the contrast has to be increased to at least 50 to see the details in the dark areas. Am I doing something wrong here?

2. When doing the manual/electrostatic focus, red and green guns create sharp focus, but blue gun shows a blurry oval at the best. Since I callibrate telescopes (it is called collimation on telescopes), I understand the optics a little bit. I believe this oval shape comes from astigmatism (the gun not squared to the screen). Is there any way to fix it? Or am I diagnosing the problem correctly? I follow the discussion on difocusing the blue, but I think I don't need it. The light output on blue is actually more than enough. I end up increasing the green output in color decoding to 63 to compensate for too much blue. I rather have the blue gun focused as tighltly as possible to get sharp picture.

If these questions are already answered somewhere else (I can't find it through extensive search though...), just point me to the thread.

Thanks a lot guys! You guys are great!

YO

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
You're implying more D/A conversions than I stated in my post. CRT is an analog display medium. All inputs from all sources digital and analog are analog at the screen. Processes like scaling are done in the digital domain but ultimately the displays output is analog. All crt based sets are analog displays. This doesn't make them inferior to a fixed pixel digital display. Many videophiles find crt to be the best display type for many reasons. As stated dvi was developed as a copy protected method and for that reason it's good to have but as for being a superior connection for crt ..it's not.


1. I own a CRT 65s700, and am not saying they are inferior, I researched all the current technologies and decided to buy this TV, I never said anything in regards to which was better.
2. Getting the signal to the display with the least amount of D/A conversion is ideal. This is all I was trying to say. Therefore, if the set is going to convert it to Digital to process, then to analog to display it, inputting an analog signal will cause more D/A conversions. I am not implying anything. You implied that the component 'ins' would take the signal in its analog format directly to the CRTs.
3. DVI WAS NOT DEVOLOPED SOLELY FOR COPY protection. My bravo D1 doesn't have copy protection. My Geforce 3 card on my computer has DVI. My computer monitor has DVI. Computers had DVI 4 years ago. DVI is a way to care the signal in a digital medium. Therefore avoiding any RF interference and signal degredation.

I am in no way trying to argue or anything. It seems you don't understand what I am saying. I am not trying to bash CRT, I am a happy owner. I am merely trying to state the plus sides to DVI. Whether or not the display is analog, is irrelevant to what I am trying to say. Using a DVI DVD player with my TV, causes only 1 D/A conversion. The one right before it goes to the CRTs. The least amount of conversions the better. It also prevents the signal from being interfered with, but I do concede that having really good Component cables would also prevent the signal from being interfeered with.

There is also the fact that the DVI will output 480p,720p,1080i. At least some of the DVD players, if not all, will only output 480p on component on protected discs. This is for copy protection as well. This means that your TV has to scale it, and I don't think the scaler in the s700 series is as good as the faorujda (or however you spell it) or the sigma scalers.

Ahh so those of you who got in on the sears deal, you have two weeks left to mail your rebate :) Thankfully I asked the delivery people to leave the box, because I later read the rebate and need the upc. Any ideas where the heck it is on the box? I don't have the entire box, I hope they didn't take the part with that. That would be a nice scam on sears part.

Originally posted by cslye
Ahh so those of you who got in on the sears deal, you have two weeks left to mail your rebate :) Thankfully I asked the delivery people to leave the box, because I later read the rebate and need the upc. Any ideas where the heck it is on the box? I don't have the entire box, I hope they didn't take the part with that. That would be a nice scam on sears part.

I think I had multiple UPC codes on my box. I just peeled one of them off and mailed it in...I'm still waiting to hear if my rebate's been approved, though. Don't the rebates have to be mailed in by Feb. 17?

Matt

Yes they cut the UPC code off for me. Ihad 2 of them. Jus tmailed both of them. got my rebate back after about a month. Check the http://www.rebatehq.net/ for the status. Even though it took them about 3 weeks to update this site to say the even received it.

chris

I just cutup my box and chucked it... after taking of the upc and other tags also......
I wasn't even positive which one was the upc until I googled it and found out it was the bar code with the 2 sets of 5 numbers under it.
Mine was stuck pretty good, so I left it on the cardboard and sliced the cardboard (middle) so it was just the UPC with a brown backing.... heheh I wasn't taking any chances..;)
All copied and sending it out tommorrow.

Lets shelve the upscaling dvd as a device for a moment and deal with a real hd device (as opposed to one that is just scaling-not outputting true hd) on an stb with component outs vs dvi out you will not see a difference in picture quality...you just won't on a crt based display. DVI was implimented in hd sets due to it's ability to carry copy protected material from the soon to be available, or already available devices that will output true HD material (hd stb , hd dvd). It wasn't included with upscaling players or video cards from PCs in mind. In fact the manuals for many sets warn against using PCs connected to the set.

Originally posted by muzz
I wasn't even positive which one was the upc until I googled it and found out it was the bar code with the 2 sets of 5 numbers under it.


Uh-oh...the biggest sticker on there? I sent in one of those smaller bar codes. Hopefully it will work, too...

Matt

OOps, I did it - lost magic focus doing DCAM convergence and can't get it back. This may not be the usual case of forgetting to save it. I think I inadvertantly toggled into 'static mode' by doing something wrong on the remote. Some of the buttons seem to have functions not mentioned in the service manual. The channel button, for example, shifts the adjustment point around the screen in a growing spiral out from the center. This is way easier than moving with the number keys.

Anyway, I've repeatedly pressed the blue reset button. It will get me into DCAM, but the usual save/exit sequence doesn't have any effect. I've been following this sequence:

1. blue reset button
2. check convergence
3. press [pip mode], screen says "ROM WRITE?", press [pip mode], green dots come up.
4. press [mute], [pip mode], [pip channel]
5. This SHOULD start magic focus initialization (right?). Instead it just goes back to the convergence screen, no magic focus intialization. It's like that functionality got switched off. Convergence is still good after powering off, so it looks like the settings from step 3 are sticking.

Pressing magic focus button after powering off brings up the "static mode" and the infamous series of crossed lines. Anybody know how to get the magic focus back under these circumstnaces? Help much appreciated, thanks in advance,

-Dave



I am having this exact problem. After I did a convergence I initialized though, and went back in after and the convergence was set. But i've been making adjustments, and I need to do another convergence, but really want to know how I can get it back to normal.

Does it tell you in the Service manual? Anyone got a SM in adobe format?

If you don't have your Sears code anymore, don't despair...

The Sears delivery crew took away the boxes and we realized a few days later that we needed the UPC. We promptly called the store, and were told this was a common occurrence and shouldn't cause issues.

As a precaution we sent a letter to rebatehq with our rebate forms. I just verified on their site and the checks are in the mail! In case anyone needs it, I've included a templatized copy of the letter we sent.

BTW, I'm getting my 57S700 calibrated soon by Greg from lionav, and will report here about the improvements.

D.

---
To Whom It May Concern:

Please find enclosed two (2) rebate forms for our Hitachi <Model> TV (Sears model <Number>). The first one of 50$ is for free delivery and the second one of 200$ is for having bought a qualifying model.

It is impossible for us to join to the second rebate form the original UPC from the box as requested, since the box was taken away by the delivery crew upon delivery.

We spoke to <person name>, a sales associate at the <store name> Sears store where we bought the Hitachi TV, who assured us this was a routine occurrence and would not present a problem in getting the rebate.

However, should you have any questions regarding this, you may reach Mr. <name> at <phone>. Alternatively, you may speak with his manager, <name> at <phone>.

Thank you for you consideration in this matter.

VHAGAR,
I.ve got one. PM me

slimjim

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
Lets shelve the upscaling dvd as a device for a moment and deal with a real hd device (as opposed to one that is just scaling-not outputting true hd) on an stb with component outs vs dvi out you will not see a difference in picture quality...you just won't on a crt based display. DVI was implimented in hd sets due to it's ability to carry copy protected material from the soon to be available, or already available devices that will output true HD material (hd stb , hd dvd). It wasn't included with upscaling players or video cards from PCs in mind. In fact the manuals for many sets warn against using PCs connected to the set.

Hi Paul,

Well, in that perspective I can't argue with you. I guess I was only thinking of the DVD player scenerio.

Since we are on this subject, and since I am using my DVI port already, what do you think is the best video card solution to hook my computer to my TV via component video?

Tony

I have the 51S700 and my picture is set a bit to the right. I've seen vertical adjust in the menu, but not horizontal. How can a move my picture to the left so that it is centered correctly and the black borders are the same size?

You can do it on the first page of the service menu, although it kind of jumps a bit much. BTW: On anyone elses set, can they NOT get the overscan adjustment screen centered? When I did my overscan I had to leave one side at about 5% and the other at 4.5 or so, because my screen isn't centered. If I adjust it accordingly, it moves it too much so that where I have it now is the best I can get.

Ok, I'm a little confused here about the DVI vs CV issue.

Putting the PQ comparison aside for a moment, these units are digital processor units. All non-digital inputs are converted to digital (AD = information loss), digitally processed, converted to analog (DA = neglibile loss) and outputted to 3 (RGB) CRTs for display. All digital inputs (DVI and some CV(?)) are processed, converted and outputted to the 3 CRTs. As the CRTs are analog, there is no avoiding the last step.

I guess my confusion is in the use of CV. I was under the impression the CV has 2 modes: analog for 480i/p and digital for 1080i - is this not true? If not, then one would think that DVI would be a better input choice as it skips the AD conversion at the inputs. If it is then that leads to the next question of which medium carries the higher amount of data. If both are equivalent, then the choice is either, unless you need to travel a long distance, where, DVI is less susceptible to signal loss over CV.

Vhagar

As you stated there is a Horiz, and if memory serves me correctly there is a seperate one for each resolution( Horiz,HorizS,HorizH), my overscan is also slightly off center for the reasons you spoke of.

I myself am not concerned about the amount it is off though, minimal.

looks like what the info is correct on the 'noise' thread.

the fan is 1.5 by 1.5, shown in pic next to ruler..

its 3/8 inch in width.

Text on the fan reads this..

NMB

Model
1604KL-01W-B39
5V = DC 0.10A

DC brushless fan motor
Minebea co., LTD.
made in china

its got three wires, red (+), black (-) and white on a small connector.

This is the replacement fan I got in the mail from sears before tech comes and replaces this fan. Will try and get some detail about the replacement part.

I will post a picture of it soon. Camera is out of batteries. I will also post pics of tv and fan replacement when tech comes out.

To all with 51/57 S 500/700 and Denon 2200/2900.

What do you have your picture settings at on your dvd player and TV? I'm at work right now, so I don't have my settings in front of me, but I will post later. I know I have the Denon set on 'Lighter', (there are also contrast, gamma, etc on the player itself).

Thanks for your help,
PolkThug

Hey brastaj, thanks for the info on the fan.

I'm hoping to replace mine with a "quiet" model someday.

1.5" square, is that a common size?

Matt

Edit - Maybe it's a 40mm x 10mm fan? That's pretty close to your measurements.

I searched for a few minutes and found these links..

http://www.minebea.co.jp/english/product/rotary/fan_f.html

http://www.eminebea.com/usa/eMinebea?Transaction=catalog_CatalogFilter&templateId=TMP00123

if you search the catalog the part number on this fan (1604KL-01W-B39 fan), it can't be found, however there are a few that are close. (030) and (040).. I suspect 040 is replacement to 039?

http://www.eminebea.com/usa/eMinebea?Transaction=catalog_CatalogPartSpecsList&add_to_rfq=&Part_ID=&ReportName=PartSpecsDownload&user_selected_columns=&templateId=TMP00123&catalogFilterClause=%3Cvolt00123%3E%3CFLOAT_VAL%3E%3C%3D5%3E %7C%3Cfl00123%3E%3CFLOAT_VAL%3E%3Cbetween+0+and+300.00%3E%7C %3Csi00123%3E%3CFLOAT_VAL%3E%3C%3Dall%3E&RequestedColumnDisplayOrder=&order_by=@DisplayValue&StartElement=1&TotalElements=23&ElementsPerPage=10&PrimaryListNode=Part&UseCache=true&render=&LogURL=true&catalogMeasuringSystem=I

*****
I also e-mailed the company to ask them which fan to use as a replacement if that one has been obsoleted, NOTE db levels on right side...

I will try and get a file from them that has specs of this fan and post it here, but this should get you started. Once I have the replacement fan part number or its actual specs I will post it. I asked for a replacement version that has same size etc..

I have a pic of the fan but its too big to attach (too many MB) I need to resize it and take some out.. will try to do this soon.. but really its not going to help much we already have crucial info on part number from the real manufacturer.

If you can get the specs on your own please post them. I would wait until your warranty runs out and hire someone to do the work, someone thats experienced with the tv.. I am a hardware guy and I thought it was difficult. It can be done however, taking great card and about 3 hours I think.

Yeah, looking at the Minebea catalog, the -B39 looks in between the -B30 at .075 amps, and the -B40 at .12A. But even the -40 is only rated at 25 dB, my fan seems a lot louder than that.

I wonder if we could go to a 20mm thick fan to move more air at a lower RPM?

So you think it will take 3 hours to replace that fan?? Have you actually done this, or you're letting the technician handle it?

Matt

I had a sears tech do it but watched it pretty close. My guy took off the back cover, then removed the panel that has all the connections on it. Then started removing boards around the 'target area' buy unplugging them and then taking out screws etc. It took the tech about 30-45 minutes to get that far and he was feeling his way along carefully. It took him another hour to fiddle with it, try the replacement and put it back together. My kids were running around so I had to leave and watch them some, but I understood what he did. I could probably do it myself if I had to, but I would go slow and understand all actions.

As to the thickness, I think the fan needs to be the same dimensions because there is a small metal holder that fits around the fan and attaches to the inside of the mesh box it sits in, and points in the general direction of the board it needs to cool. My guy said you can change the mount from an angled to verticle, thats what helped my noise problem a lot, I can barely hear it. He thought when the fan is mounted at an angle the bearing is rubbing etc. Pic attached

this is the best shot of the connector on the fan

ruler pic

Originally posted by muzz
I just cutup my box and chucked it... after taking of the upc and other tags also......
I wasn't even positive which one was the upc until I googled it and found out it was the bar code with the 2 sets of 5 numbers under it.
Mine was stuck pretty good, so I left it on the cardboard and sliced the cardboard (middle) so it was just the UPC with a brown backing.... heheh I wasn't taking any chances..;)
All copied and sending it out tommorrow.

Does anyone have the rebate form from the web saved in HTML or printed out that they can send me a copy? Please PM me. Thx.

Originally posted by nguy
Does anyone have the rebate form from the web saved in HTML or printed out that they can send me a copy? Please PM me. Thx.

The form for $200 back on the S700 that had to be sent in by Feb. 17?

Matt

I took this pic off of the 'high-pitched whine' thread and inserted an arrow that points to the top of the box that contains the fan. If you can take the unit apart to the point you can open this box, your gold. And can replace your noisy fan with a fan you can spec to the original fan listed by me earlier in this thread. Still have not received a mail from the manufacturer as to what to replace the 039 with in their lineup.

by the way, this looks the same as my 57s700.

HELP! Bought my Hitachi 57S500 August 2003. Couple months later it began to shut off then power on almost immediately by itself. No flashes no discoloration. Picture is still great. Have the protection plan from Circuit City and they came out December 2003. He messed around with the Green gun and left. It happened again 3 weeks ago. CC came out again Monday and messed around with picture and colors again and left. It just happened again last night. Any thoughts ideas suggestions?

Thanks.

STRANGE PROBLEM ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS?

Strange problem, blue coloration on tight vertical lines (multiburst):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=365843&highlight=cast
http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=553828&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1#Post557387

Originally posted by glassr
HELP! Bought my Hitachi 57S500 August 2003. Couple months later it began to shut off then power on almost immediately by itself. No flashes no discoloration. Picture is still great. Have the protection plan from Circuit City and they came out December 2003. He messed around with the Green gun and left. It happened again 3 weeks ago. CC came out again Monday and messed around with picture and colors again and left. It just happened again last night. Any thoughts ideas suggestions?

Thanks.

Keep reporting the problem. They are obligated to fix it or replace the set.

Regards,
PolkThug

Originally posted by bigrig
The form for $200 back on the S700 that had to be sent in by Feb. 17?

Matt

I think on the form it said by March 2, BUT it DID state that the mail HAD to be postmarked within 30 days of purchase to be eligible.

nguy when did you buy that?

Hello, I am a 65s700 owner.

1. The fan in the HDTUNER (according to the tech) is very loud. Is there a place to complain, petition, so that Hitachi can replace it? He can't fix it, because it is inside the tuner unit. Unless Hitachi issues a replacement part.

2. This is my first Projection TV of any kind. When credits are displayed, when watching a B&W film, and when watching a color film with a big object that spans the screen, the left side of the screen is 'redder/warmer' and the right side is 'blue/colder'. The tech said this is just the nature of the Projecion, since the red tube is on the left and the blue one on the right. I asked my sister, and after I mentioned it she noticed it too (on her tv as well as mine). Is this a normal thing? I can't believe I am the first person to be bothered by this, but I haven't read anything before about it.

Tony

Originally posted by tandersn
Hello, I am a 65s700 owner.

1. The fan in the HDTUNER (according to the tech) is very loud. Is there a place to complain, petition, so that Hitachi can replace it? He can't fix it, because it is inside the tuner unit. Unless Hitachi issues a replacement part.

2. This is my first Projection TV of any kind. When credits are displayed, when watching a B&W film, and when watching a color film with a big object that spans the screen, the left side of the screen is 'redder/warmer' and the right side is 'blue/colder'. The tech said this is just the nature of the Projecion, since the red tube is on the left and the blue one on the right. I asked my sister, and after I mentioned it she noticed it too (on her tv as well as mine). Is this a normal thing? I can't believe I am the first person to be bothered by this, but I haven't read anything before about it.

Tony
This is typical, he didn't lie to you regarding the placement of the tubes.
This is what Lens striping is trying to fix. An ISF tech can do it for you ( I guess someone could try themselves but...).

Originally posted by muzz
This is typical, he didn't lie to you regarding the placement of the tubes.
This is what Lens striping is trying to fix. An ISF tech can do it for you ( I guess someone could try themselves but...).

So if I hire the ISF guy to come out, it could be better? I have no problem paying someone $300 to come out and set it right. I am just waiting until I have a month or two of usage.

Thanks for your response.

Tony

Originally posted by muzz
I think on the form it said by March 2, BUT it DID state that the mail HAD to be postmarked within 30 days of purchase to be eligible.

nguy when did you buy that?

Jan 28 so I still have a week. I just need to know if anyone have the saved HTML or a scan they can send me.

Thnx.
TN

brastaj,
Did your Sears guy leave the new fan in? Did he try the old fan in the vertical position to see if the noise was better that way?

I've found the room position is important to how much the noise is heard. I started with my 51s700 against a flat wall and it was fairly loud when standing at the side of the set, but "usually" ok when sitting in front of it. I've since moved the set to a corner and this just about doubled the noise to where I can hear it most of the time and it's getting annoying.

Sears mailed me the part, sears guy tried the new one, it was horrible, was MUCH louder than my original fan. He changed the mounting angle from angled to verticle and the fan sounded much more quiet. He attributed this to the angle its mounted putting a pressure on the bearing in a way that made it 'rub' more.

Originally posted by tandersn
Hello, I am a 65s700 owner.
with a big object that spans the screen, the left side of the screen is 'redder/warmer' and the right side is 'blue/colder'. The tech said this is just the nature of the Projecion, since the red tube is on the left and the blue one on the right.

I have the exact same problem. It's very slight, so I just deal with it.

Originally posted by nguy
Jan 28 so I still have a week. I just need to know if anyone have the saved HTML or a scan they can send me.

Thnx.
TN
I saved the HTML. It's at home though, I can send it to you tonight.

Originally posted by PolkThug
I have the exact same problem. It's very slight, so I just deal with it.

This was fixed in my set by lenstriping done during ISF calibration by GambrelW

I've attached a copy of the Hitachi $200 rebate form. It says it must be postmarked by March 2nd.

Originally posted by Paul Clancy
Lets shelve the upscaling dvd as a device for a moment and deal with a real hd device (as opposed to one that is just scaling-not outputting true hd) on an stb with component outs vs dvi out you will not see a difference in picture quality...you just won't on a crt based display. DVI was implimented in hd sets due to it's ability to carry copy protected material from the soon to be available, or already available devices that will output true HD material (hd stb , hd dvd). It wasn't included with upscaling players or video cards from PCs in mind. In fact the manuals for many sets warn against using PCs connected to the set.

Paul --

I have my 57S700 hooked up to a PACE HDTV STB which has both DVI and Component output. I have a cheap DVI cable and an expensive Monster-3 CV cable. I hooked DVI to Input 1 and CV to Input 2 for 1080i comparison viewing. The DVI PQ is most assuredly more detailed up close and it's brighter (I need to drop Input 1 DVI brightness by 7% to match CV). The real issue with DVI is SD PQ -- the PACE STB has to do the 480i to 480p deinterlacing and it really stinks at it compared to the Hitachi processor. Also, I've asked casual viewers to compare and they tend to prefer 1080i with CV (even though DVI is more detailed). Bottom line is that the results are mixed.


Regards --

Jay

Knowing that all DVD players are not created equal, and seeing as how the Hitachi 'S' series exhibit some problem with 480p outputs on some players. What players out there are well matched to the Hitachi 51" units? Are there any PS or should I go for a unit that upscales to 540p/1080i?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

I've also compared DVI and component connections on two different inputs on my RPTV (using a Motorola 6200) and I prefer the component connection. It's not any clearer or sharper--I compared the two as black and white images and can't see any difference. The reason that component looks better is because it has more color to it. The DVI looks washed out and I need to raise the color level on the DVI to get it to the same level as component.

Originally posted by HD03
I've also compared DVI and component connections on two different inputs on my RPTV (using a Motorola 6200) and I prefer the component connection. It's not any clearer or sharper--I compared the two as black and white images and can't see any difference. The reason that component looks better is because it has more color to it. The DVI looks washed out and I need to raise the color level on the DVI to get it to the same level as component.

Yeah, I just gave up on the DVI and went back to component. It is much sweeter. Even though I can see the DVI detail, the wow factor just isn't there...even if I crank up the color and/or drop the brightness. I have no way to dial in the black level or color decoder with AVIA on DVI right now anyway unless I get a DVI DVD. I'll just stick with what I got. It's spectacular.

I'm doing my research for a DVD to use on a TV I just bought. This is the first big TV I've ever owned and the first DVD.

The TV is the Hitachi 57S500.

I like the Samsung 931 and the Denon 2200 DVD players. I'll go the Samsung route if the DVI output is a real improvement with my TV. I've heard mixed reviews as to whether there is any improvement or possibly worst. Does anyone have any experience with this.

Also with one DVI input is it more improtant to use it for HDTV or for DVD player?

What I see is if the DVI will play on my TV with the upconversion and not do strange things then the Samsung is the way to go. If this won't work then I think the Denon 2200 will be a top notch player for me using component video. Either way it will be a stellar improvement from what I'm used to.

So the question I have is, does the Samsung DVI upconversion result in a improved picture over a high quality progressive scan DVD like the Denon 2200 when using a RPTV such as the Hitachi 57S500 or simular.

There is also a Bravo D1 unit that has DVI. The problem I read with the Samsung is the 1080i up-convert signal is only output via DVI. The bravo unit supposedly outputs to either DVI or CV. There is also a D2 which overcomes some of the D1's criticisms (http://www.cnet.com/4520-7912_1-5116199-1.html). I also heard something about a Bravo D3 that will play MPG4 and WMA9 DVDs to be available in next couple of months.

"Either way it will be a stellar improvement from what I'm used to."

I don't know, the Hitachi is supposed to have a pretty good deinterlacer. I'm not familiar with either of those DVD players, but an expensive progressive scan player might not have the improvement you expect.

But it couldn't hurt! :P

Matt

I've heard the Bravo CV is weak. The DVI is great but the quality of the overall unit is bad. I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money on something that's going to break and then have to deal with poor support.

Your right the Samsung upconvert is DVI only. If I bought that it would be with the understanding that I was going to use DVI. I think Samsung designed that unit to complement their DLP TV.

What I've heard about the Hitachi upconvert is it needs a clean signal input for the output to look clean.

When I say a stellar improvement I meant from my 15 year old 27" TV. ;-))

If you had your choice would you choose DVI for a DVD player or for a HD receiver? Since we only have one I should choose I guess before I go any further. It may have to do with D/A and A/D steps.

HD is already upconverted so wouldn't it be better for analog to just go straight to the analog screen? If DVD needs to be upconverted then it should arrive digital so it can go straight to conversion. This sound backwards from the way systems are setup though.

You may be right about the Bravo; havent researched it thoroughly. Maybe the newer models improve on that aspect. As for DVI - for the RPTV's, consensus is that CV and DVI are about the same with CV having a better color saturation and DVI a little crisper. I havent seen any DVI, so I cant really comment.

What is confusing me about the whole analog vs digital issue is ppl say RPTV is analog display, but I think the units are 100% digital processing so everything must be digital before being converted to the analog CRTs.
So any analog input is converted to digital, processed and then converted back to analog. Therefore, I would think the best input signals would be pure digital... if I am wrong on this, please someone enlighten me.

Originally posted by DumbLuck
You may be right about the Bravo; havent researched it thoroughly. Maybe the newer models improve on that aspect. As for DVI - for the RPTV's, consensus is that CV and DVI are about the same with CV having a better color saturation and DVI a little crisper. I havent seen any DVI, so I cant really comment.



I've read that the Bravo D2 will have color adjustments for DVI. They come out in march

Help. I need service manual info to allow me to get my new Australian model 57” HD Hitachi rear pro (C57WD5000) working at its best. I contacted Hitachi Australia and requested a service manual. My request was flatly denied and I was told that there was no way they would supply anyone other then an authorised service agent with a service manual during the one year warranty life of the product. So I have no alternative but to ask for assistance from other Hitachi owners.
Even though my set is an Australian model and looks quite different to the US models, the features are very similar to the S500 model in the US and the menu structure also looks similar.

I need info on how to get into the service menu so I can correct a strong red push, reduce overscan, disable edge enhancement and do a manual convergance.

I am not a noobie, and have done all these adjustments to my previous Toshiba rear pro.
The Hitachi looks like it has a lot of potential for great performance although the default setup is wowfull. I just need to get it tweaked and I will be a happy camper.
So if anyone can give me some information, I would be very appreciative.



Greetings from down under,

Owen

Owen, all that info is available right here.

This thread is a good place to start -
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273639

Matt

Thanks bigrig, I'll check it out.

Owen

Hello everyone!
I got my 65S700 2 weeks ago. Picture is great except for there seems to be way to much yellow and red. I adjusted these parameters from the video menu which helped but I want a better picture. I live in Lake Charles, La and the closest ISF Calibrater's are in Baton Rouge. Too far away. I just ordered sound & vision's tuneup DVD. How should I go about setting the TV with the DVD? I have read about the service menu's posted in the forums. But this TV offers separate color adjustments for cyan,magenta,red,yellow,blue, and green. Do I use this for calibrating or go in the service menu? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Originally posted by craigs2553
Hello everyone!
I got my 65S700 2 weeks ago. Picture is great except for there seems to be way to much yellow and red. I adjusted these parameters from the video menu which helped but I want a better picture. I live in Lake Charles, La and the closest ISF Calibrater's are in Baton Rouge. Too far away. I just ordered sound & vision's tuneup DVD. How should I go about setting the TV with the DVD? I have read about the service menu's posted in the forums. But this TV offers separate color adjustments for cyan,magenta,red,yellow,blue, and green. Do I use this for calibrating or go in the service menu? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Sounds like your Screen VRs are out of whack (and/or your CUTs and DRVs). Yellow means not enough blue and red of course means too much red. Have you verified the color issues with high quality DVD source material using componenet video connection (Superbit Fifth Element or Die Another Day)? I would get the retailer to come out and at least get the TV to factory spec because what you are describing is NOT normal for a new box.

I guess I should clarify. When I say to much red I mean on peoples faces. and when to much yellow it's like everything kind of has a yellowish tint. This is seen when the tv is on default factory settings. I cancelled the sound and vision tuneup dvd and purchased the avia instead.

I took delivery of my 51S700 three weeks ago. Along with the dreaded fan whine which is VERY noticeable, I have a problem with my OTA signal degrading to the point where the message "Weak Signal Or Channel Not Available" appears. When it first becomes noticable the sound comes and goes. At that point I check my signal strength and it's in the 30s & 40s. Whether it gets to the point of the message appearing or just the sound acting up I can turn the set off and back on and it's fine and signal strength is in the 70 to 80 range. I haven't seen this problem discussed so anyone else have this? Thanks, retrac

Originally posted by craigs2553
I guess I should clarify. When I say to much red I mean on peoples faces. and when to much yellow it's like everything kind of has a yellowish tint. This is seen when the tv is on default factory settings. I cancelled the sound and vision tuneup dvd and purchased the avia instead.

Avia will help you easily dial in saturation (Color), brightness, and the color decoder (you can use the Color Decoder section of User menu to change screen to pure blue, green, & red instead of using tinted filters or glasses -- very nice of Hitachi to provide this). If you still have issues then you'll need to tweak the DRVs and CUTs for the High temperature mode in the Service menu (always write down the factory settings before changing though -- don't change other temperatures -- just High). Avia Gray Scale patterns can help you dial it in. This will shift all your color temperatures and allows you to get neutral grays and whites which can make a PHENOMENAL difference in picture quality (PQ). If none of this helps, you might need a professional calibration (or just pull the panel off the front of the TV and go at with the screen VRs on the focus pack -- that's what I did and was able to eyeball adjust my 57S700 to breathtaking PQ).

Also, keep in mind that the number one variable is source material. Evaluate your tuning using a few favorite DVDs and quality HD content. Ignore standard TV -- it is so variable as to be worthless. And use a component video cable if possible.

If you need help digging into the details let me know. I just went through 3 weeks of tuning so it's fresh in my mind.

Originally posted by JayJervey


If you need help digging into the details let me know. I just went through 3 weeks of tuning so it's fresh in my mind.

Jay,

I just took delivery of my 57S500 yesterday. My Avia disk will be here tomorrow but unfortunately I don't have a DVD player. I knew I forgot something:D, actually I ordered one and it should be here Monday. When I get it all hooked up I'll be starting to figure out the calibrations. I hope you folks don't mind me asking basic questions. I've never tried to do something like this and unsure which steps I need to do in what order.

Thanks,

Curtis

I just posted a new thread about something very exciting about the new series - being able to converge on a real picture!

Check it out -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372581


Mr Bob

I just installed a Hitachi 65S700 in anticipation of getting a dish 921 (when they start shipping those again) and have a problem with the signal from my current 501 to the TV. I have checked it both through the co-ax out and S video out and the picture is not very sharp. I run these same signals though my analog TVs and the picture looks great. Is there something unusal about this TV or HD TVs in general that they don't know how to handle must the normal signal out of a dish receiver. I do have something that is called VIRTUAL HD that switches between 540p and 1080i and it doesn't seem like I can turn that feature off. Anybody with a Hitachi had the same problem?

I also have a Gateway DVD Recorder. When I go to progressive mode the picture looks terrible. The recorder is going through component and the dish through s video. I know the answer is somewhere in all these threads about Hitachis but was hoping for an easy answer

Anyone?

Seadoo, there are several things you can do. The 65s700 has both an analog and HDTV tuner built in and ready to go. Assuming there is a local station nearby, hook up an antenna and use that source to measure the sharpness of the TV. If it turns out that a strong over-the-air feed looks bad, and your DVD's when switched to non-progressive aren't any better, then the set is probably bad or in need of tweaking. A manual and electrostatic focus would be a good place to start.

brastaj,

I was excited to read about your success with changing the mounting angle.

When the tech was putting ours back together several weeks ago, there was some confusion about the orientation. I don't remember if it was just that he thought the angle didn't make sense (wasn't facing the electronics) or if there printing on the board ("Airflow ==>") that didn't match the original orientation. He called in to check it and escalated it until he was talking to someone at Hitachi. (He was from Sears.) But I think he ended up putting it back the same way. I couldn't see what he was doing, so I don't know if the orientations match what you're saying.

I posted in another thread that a service call mostly solved my problem, but shortly after that post it started to bother us again.

I have a pair of potential replacement fans, [brand and model removed]. The brand was recommended in a quiet PC forum and their numbers are good.

I will probably dig in this weekend and try your angle change, then the replacements if necessary. Given the effort to get inside, I figured I'd rather buy fans I may not use than have to go in again.

One major question: You referred to making the fan vertical. I assume that you mean "skinny side up" (blowing horizontally) [rather than blowing vertically. Can you confirm?

Thanks,
LB

The S700 Hitachis have two firewire (IEEE 1394) connectors. If I read the manual correctly only one firewire device can be active at any time. Is this correct? Is anyone using these, if so for what and with what kind of success?

I have read several people complaining about poor quality with SD feeds to the Hitachi. Well I have an Australian model (C57WD5000) very similar to the S500 and have the same problem. HD feed over Component cable is outstanding, so there is nothing wrong with alignment, buy SD source fed from the internal tuner or from Svideo inputs looks very blurry and noisy. Since the TV wants to convert SD inputs to 1080i using it’s internal scaling and deinterlacing hardware. That is where the problem seems to lie. The Hitachi’s scaling performance is VERY poor. If I us my HTPC to upscale SD source to 1080i and feed that to the component inputs the resulting quality is MUCH better. The improvement is astonishing. I am surprised that no one else has mentioned this.
I also have the red push that others have noticed. I use my HTPC to correct this but I don’t understand how the gray scale could be that far out on a new TV.
The only other example of this TV that I have seen exhibited the same faults so I think it is a generic problem. What where the Hitachi engineers thinking?

If only I could get some info on the service codes, I could correct the red push and disable the awful edge enhancement. Unfortunately the service menu is very different to the US Hitachi’s. The settings are identified by number only (1-600+). No cryptic codes as for most TV’s so I have no idea what is what.
My search for service info on my Hitachi continues. If anyone can help me out, I would be grateful.

Regards,

Owen

lazyboy,

just to reply here, yes, it was blowing horizontally (like a floor fan normally sits perpendicular? to the floor). The tech that did my fan said that he knew a lot about fans from previous experience, and when they are mounted in some ways they exert pressures on the bearings that make them 'rub' in unwanted ways. If you think about a floor fan, if you turn it on and hold it at an angle or horizontally, (blowing at the floor) it makes loud or different noises because the fan was not meant to be run sitting in that position, rubs and parts don't align etc, maybe bearings are not seated correctly. This is why mounting the fan so it blows horizontally fixes this, gravity forces help align it I guess. He also said the fan was still pointed at the board and would do the cooling job it was supposed to do.

Another noteworthy item is we were able to test the fan by cobbling it back together, while it was still partially apart, so it would work and we could listen to it. This helped shorten the time some. I also think it may work for some fans and not for others? Like I said before we tried a replacement (same part number so it was exact same fan) but that one sounded way worse. I would have a replacement fan you pick ready to try so you don't have to keep tearing it apart. You could always return a fan you don't use right? make sure you can do that and have everything ready to go, you will understand when you get into the unit and see the fan. Use your best judgement on mounting and I think it will be fine. One other thing, you should check the fan replacements air volume spec and make sure its compatible with the part that they use for cooling purposes.

Originally posted by Owen
have read several people complaining about poor quality with SD feeds to the Hitachi. Well I have an Australian model (C57WD5000) very similar to the S500 and have the same problem. HD feed over Component cable is outstanding, so there is nothing wrong with alignment, buy SD source fed from the internal tuner or from Svideo inputs looks very blurry and noisy.

The 1080i and the 480i/p use completely different sets of convergence registers, each of which has to be calibrated independently of the other. This may explain why one looks so good and the other one looks so bad.



Since the TV wants to convert SD inputs to 1080i using it’s internal scaling and deinterlacing hardware. That is where the problem seems to lie. The Hitachi’s scaling performance is VERY poor.

I don't believe the Hit's scale up to 1080i from 480. The newer Pioneers do, the x30s. I believe the Hit scales to 540p, but not 1080i.




I also have the red push that others have noticed. I use my HTPC to correct this but I don’t understand how the gray scale could be that far out on a new TV.

Red push is color decoding. Color decoding has nothing whatsoever to do with grayscale, and is only moderately affected by it, if at all. If your b/w's have a reddish tinge to them, that is grayscale error.


If only I could get some info on the service codes, I could correct the red push and disable the awful edge enhancement. Unfortunately the service menu is very different to the US Hitachi’s. The settings are identified by number only (1-600+). No cryptic codes as for most TV’s so I have no idea what is what.
My search for service info on my Hitachi continues. If anyone can help me out, I would be grateful.


If you can get the correct service codes from Hitachi, I would be glad to be available for phone consultation, as I don't know of any calibrators in your country.


Mr Bob

OWEN:

Pardon my ignorance since I am new at this. What is an HTPC that you used to improve your picture quality

(Be kind, I'm learning...)

On my 51s700 when viewing cable, I see black horizontal lines in the bright reds mostly at the edges. When the red is surrounded by white, there are also red horizontal lines bleeding into the white area at the edges. I don't see it on HD or DVD and I still need to look for it on tapes. What is this?

Also, I've toned down brightness, contrast, and some of the red in the user menus, but reds still seem to harsh/bright. Is this the red-push I read about?

Is there a source to view problems and descriptions somewhere? Maybe the avia disc?

Thanks.

Seadoo - a HTPC is a Home Theater PC; a computer which uses the TV as it's display. There's a HTPC forum here if you want to learn more.

Matt

Originally posted by Mr Bob

Red push is color decoding. Color decoding has nothing whatsoever to do with grayscale, and is only moderately affected by it, if at all. If your b/w's have a reddish tinge to them, that is grayscale error.
Mr Bob

Hi, Mr. Bob. I've been following your threads the last few days and it's obvious you have a mastery and dedication to getting the perfect picture. Thanks so much for the input you are giving us.

I have a question about grayscale adjustment. I don't have a color analyzer (that would cost as much as the TV) so I've been eyeballing it using AVIA and adjusting the HIGH temperature red/green drives and red/green/blue cuts in the service menu. I get IRE 80 or 90 as white and shiny as possible and get IRE 20 as gray as possible and make black as deep as possible. I did it this weekend and my DVD and HD picture quality was eye popping -- utterly gorgeous. My question regards adusting the Standard temperature (6500K). According to the Hitacchi service manual all the other temperatures (MEDIUM, STANDARD, B/W) are just offsets from the HIGH so once you calibrate that, the others fall into line. Does this make sense? Is there any way to "eyeball" adjust for 6500K specifically? (I tried it but it failed miserably -- way too red). Thanks.

How many of you S500/S700 owners bought from sears and took out the Extended Warranty Plan? I opted for the 5 year plan when I initially bought the TV and my 60 days is almost up (full refund).

From what I seam to read, if the TV works fine for the first couple months, it will continue to work fine. Any opinoins on this extended warranty? 3 Years instead of 5 years vs the default 2 year on CRT/1 year on other?

Thanks

If it doesn't cover burn in, I would cancel it. If the guns didn't go retarded durning the move, then you're probably okay. I got my 57S700 (in love with this TV) from UE and their extended warranty covers burn it for the five year period. So when I'm gaming, I don't have the burn-in gremlin dancing around my head. Otherwise, cancel it and buy more home theater goodies with the cash... BTW, I have been lurking around these parts for many months and I want to thank ALL posters for assisting me in my decision. With your guidance, I feel that I have purchased the best possible picture quality for the money. Viva la Hitachi!

I'll am not sure if the sears warranty covers burn-in or not, anyone know off hand?

I will be moving the set again in about 6 months to a new house, but that will still be under the original 1 year warranty.

Thanks for your input, and I agree this set is great!

Originally posted by Agix
How many of you S500/S700 owners bought from sears and took out the Extended Warranty Plan? I opted for the 5 year plan when I initially bought the TV and my 60 days is almost up (full refund).

From what I seam to read, if the TV works fine for the first couple months, it will continue to work fine. Any opinoins on this extended warranty? 3 Years instead of 5 years vs the default 2 year on CRT/1 year on other?

Thanks

My salesguy told me I could get a full refund in the first year.

<looks at warranty contract> Yeah, it says full refund within sixty days...hmm. I bought a 3yr plan for my 51S700 for $400, which I think is a rip-off. Supposedly its more because there's a HD tuner in there? Psshaw.

I'm going to return mine.

Matt

Originally posted by Agix
I'll am not sure if the sears warranty covers burn-in or not, anyone know off hand?

I will be moving the set again in about 6 months to a new house, but that will still be under the original 1 year warranty.

Thanks for your input, and I agree this set is great!

As I recall, burn-in and general picture quality is not covered by either the standard warranty nor the Sears extended warranty (I remember asking). I ended up not purchasing the extended warranty because of that. Sears Home Service also handles the standard Hitachi warranty so I figure I've got a year to break it in. If it lasts that long, it should last for 10 years.

I bet you won't have it for 5 years...............

Suggestion please:

I got "white crush" through DVI connection in the DVE gray ramps pattern, no matter how I adjusted the contrast. It was OK using component connection with the same settings (CUTS, DRIVES ... etc).

1) Is it related to how DVI RGB mapping to IRE?
2) Any ISF setting will correct this for DVI connection?

I know that DVI connection will not give CRT RPTV a big PQ improvement, but I just want to make sure it is not caused by the Hitachi's implementation of DVI specifications. Since I am not an expert, I don't want to speculate anything.

Thanks in advance for any help.


DVD player - LG-DV7832
RPTV - 57S500

I've seen a post or two in this thread that indicated color saturation on the Hitachi was better when the input was via component video...i.e., that the picture was richer via CV than via DVI.

Is that something that many of you can confirm? I've been waiting to buy one of the upcoming crop of DVI DVD players...but if the PQ will be richer (if slightly less sharp) via component, I may go ahead and buy a current-generation DVD player. Thanks!

Originally posted by Mr Bob
The 1080i and the 480i/p use completely different sets of convergence registers, each of which has to be calibrated independently of the other. This may explain why one looks so good and the other one looks so bad.

I don't believe the Hit's scale up to 1080i from 480. The newer Pioneers do, the x30s. I believe the Hit scales to 540p, but not 1080i.
Actually, from my observations there seems to be only one convergence register on these Hitachis (since there is only really one display mode 540p/1080i).

The Hitachi scaling is selectable between 540p and 1080i via the VirtualHD button on the remote. I prefer 1080i for 720p input and 540p for all other inputs (1080i input will be displayed natively always).

2) Any ISF setting will correct this for DVI connection?

You can use M-CONTH in the ISF menu to turn down contrast of DVI.

I've seen a post or two in this thread that indicated color saturation on the Hitachi was better when the input was via component video...i.e., that the picture was richer via CV than via DVI.

If you go with identical color settings for DVI and component, component will be more saturated. Once calibrated, the DVI color setting will end up higher than component. That isn't a flaw, it is just something that has to be calibrated using a calibration disc or signal generator. I see no difference in the saturation levels after calibrating the two (just the value of the parameter).

So, what I am trying to say is that if you use a component DVD player to calibrate color and copy the color setting for DVI, it will look less saturated and you will need to increase the color setting to acheive the correct saturation. DVI and component are different and require different settings.

Bill

Help Please!

My local dealers do not have any 57S700 but Sears has only a display. They want 2299 with 10% off for the display so 1900 roughly. It has been on display since early January. It is in excellent condition, no apparent burn in though Im no expert! I cant decide, should I wait for a new model or go for this. It seems to be a great deal for 1900, but I plan on getting either Voom or Dish, so I may not need the integrated tuner, since these receivers have built in OTA. I dont think I will find anything this nice for that price but I am not sure I want a TV with 600 hours already on it. Any suggestions? What would you do? What is the typical half life of these RPTV's?

Thanks for any suggestions

Originally posted by Owen
Help. I need service manual info to allow me to get my new Australian model 57” HD Hitachi rear pro (C57WD5000) working at its best. I contacted Hitachi Australia and requested a service manual. My request was flatly denied and I was told that there was no way they would supply anyone other then an authorised service agent with a service manual during the one year warranty life of the product. So I have no alternative but to ask for assistance from other Hitachi owners.
Even though my set is an Australian model and looks quite different to the US models, the features are very similar to the S500 model in the US and the menu structure also looks similar.
Owen, purchase the S500 service manual from www.servicemanuals.net and you should be good to go.

Bill,

I decreased the "M-CONTH" (in 57s500, the setting is "CONT-A") from 0C to 00, still no effect. The highest 3 IREs merged together, even they looked very "creamy white".

Thanks.

Your right. I had 2002 model on my brain. Have you reduced SUBCNT0 and increased Cont-K for component to compensate for the drop in luminance.

Bill

Originally posted by mygyro
I've seen a post or two in this thread that indicated color saturation on the Hitachi was better when the input was via component video...i.e., that the picture was richer via CV than via DVI.

Is that something that many of you can confirm? I've been waiting to buy one of the upcoming crop of DVI DVD players...but if the PQ will be richer (if slightly less sharp) via component, I may go ahead and buy a current-generation DVD player. Thanks!

DVI is more detailed but it is definitely less saturated than CV. AT first I preferred DVI but have now switched back to CV -- it's more pleasing to the eye and allows 480i to be input and deinterlaced by the TV (the Hitachi S series appears to have a very good deinterlacer) -- DVI only allows minimum 480p input which means my cable box has to deinterlace 480i and it is very poor at it. I don't have a DVI DVD and am actually reluctant to try the current models -- I am afraid that the deinterlacer on these may not be as good as the TV either. I'm awaiting reviews of the new models.

Bill,

I am still using the default setting for "SUBCNT" and "CONT-K". I will try it again later because ..... my wife is behind me NOW :-)

Thanks for your help again!

A & M,

IMO, $2k is a lot for something used...

Search the forum for "whine" thread. If you don't need the tuner, you may want to go for a 500 series...

LB

I have a 51s500 and have some slight curving on the lower left hand side (Very noticeable with tickers and such)....Could someone post me some instructions (in plain english) on how to fix this?

I am assuming it is a geometry problem that is easily fixed without having to call in home repair?

I have read other threads, But I don't think they quite address the problem I am having.....Plus they seem very difficult to pull off without screwing something up.

Thanks

White crush should not be happening just because something is DVI. You should have your set looked at under warranty. Something in there is overmodulating.

Richer color, eh? Makes me have to ask, is color and tint affectable when DVI is used? Some brands go to component internally even after an RGB signal has been taken in by an RGB input, just to restore the availability of color and tint ops in User mode, which are not available in RGB mode.

Mr Bob

Hi everyone. I Hope we are all enjoying our Hitachi's. I know I have been enjoying mine.

This may have been mentioned in this thread (I think I saw it in a seperate thread recently).

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=553828&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1

Anyway while looking at this thread I determined that I had this blue haze so I went through the potential fixes for it. What I found was I decreased the blue haze but I also increased my detail in the background scense and I think I have a much nicer picture then before. So for those who would like to try with/without the blue haze problem.

I changed
SRTGA-0 = 0
WPLLVL0 = 1 seems to reduce the blue haze quite a bit.
After setting these values I went back and increased my sharpness
SHARP-X from 1f to 22

Actually after that I move SHARP-I up to 2f (HDef).

Chris

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Actually, from my observations there seems to be only one convergence register on these Hitachis (since there is only really one display mode 540p/1080i).




Mark -

Right. Same on the Toshiba.

I was more commenting on the statement I saw that 480i gets turned into 1080i, which is false. True on the current model x30 Elites, but not the Hits or the Tosh's.

I find the tightest convergence gets done on the 1080 rather than the 540, BTW, which of course kicks back to and supertightens the 540.


Mr Bob

Rob,

I don't understand why there is no "white crush" when using component? It only happens to DVI.

Thanks.

So, thus far I think there's one vote that DVI and CV should have the same saturation, if the correct (and different) settings are made for each, and one vote that CV truly has better saturation than DVI.

Hate to beat a dead horse, but whichever is true is the biggest factor in which DVD player I will buy.

So, does anyone want to add anything to the question of which has better saturation (given optimal settings each): DVI or CV?

Thanks!

One other question: I've looked for info on affordable DVI switchers so I can bring in multiple DVI sources to my 65S700's single input, and haven't found anything thus far (went to http://avtoolbox.com/ based on recommendation on AVS Forum; still no answer). Does anybody know of a good, inexpensive way to bring in 2 or 3 DVIs to the one DVI input on the set? Thanks!

Heh...what's inexpensive to you? $200?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/avs.htm

Let me try this again. Is the reason my DVD on PS looks so bad is that the s700 is trying to up convert 480p to 540p or 1080i? My DVD looks better in 480i than it does in 480p. Is this same for all DVDs?

Yep, bigrig, that looks pretty much like what I had in mind. ;-) Thanks.

Originally posted by bigrig
Heh...what's inexpensive to you? $200?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/avs.htm

Looks WAY overpriced to me.

Marc,

Are you sure it was www.servicemanuals.net for the Hitachi service manuals? Their site doesn't list Hitachi and when I sent them an email, they replied they don't sell Hitachi manuals.

Willi

You can get it on CDROM at e-Bay. Just search for "hitachi {model #} service manual"

I have been looking for some one to calibrate my new set but anybody around here who has an ISF Cal. saids they will only do it for sets they sell. Two I found were Toshiba and Mit. I really like the features of S700 but the picture is off and I am not about to tear into it. Is it worth it to keep Hit?

Where are you located? Doesn't say. Feel free to fly me in, wherever you are.

Yes, it's worth it to keep it. Hitachis are very top rung these days. Your unit definitely has the capacity for greatness.


Mr Bob

DumbLuck, Got it - Thanks.

Originally posted by willi
Marc,

Are you sure it was www.servicemanuals.net for the Hitachi service manuals? Their site doesn't list Hitachi and when I sent them an email, they replied they don't sell Hitachi manuals.

Willi That is where I've bought them in the past.

Greetinsg all! I've had my 57S700 for just about a month now and loving it, my first RPTV experience. I looked long and hard at LCD/RPT and DLP, damn near bought the Hit LCD but got trigger shy about the "new technology" and decided to go with the tried and true CRT/RPT.
My one and only complaint is what I think is refered to as "green push". I have the Avia disc and have gone through the set up twice now with my Hit. and I still have a fair amount of green in the picture. Anyone else have a similar problem?

Thanks for any help

PS. Got my Hitachi service manual on CD from manualdepot.com, covers the 51, 57 and 65S700.

Overall predominance of green is not green push. Green push is in the color decoding, and is a predominance of green at the expense of red and blue when there is color present. When there is an overall predominance of green everywhere, it is grayscale error. If in all modes, turning down the green screen control will universally remedy it.

But doing this is not for the faint of heart. I recommend it only if you are ready to hire a pro to redo your grayscale if you inadvertently mess it up. Dicking with the screen controls, or the focus block in general, IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM - even breathing on them - is a very powerful op, and not to be taken lightly.


Mr Bob

Anyone getting the problem of their set turning on when noone is there? Any possible do it yourself fixes?
Also any noticable differences switching to DVI cable instead of the composits? Thanks
Love the set....Great hd pictures off dishnetwork/dvd on composits so far.
Thanx Ross

Originally posted by Mr Bob
But doing this is not for the faint of heart. I recommend it only if you are ready to hire a pro to redo your grayscale if you inadvertently mess it up. Dicking with the screen controls, or the focus block in general, IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM - even breathing on them - is a very powerful op, and not to be taken lightly.


Mr Bob

I can attest to that. When tweaking my 57S700's electrostatic focus I inadvertently turned the green screen VR knob and that was all she wrote. Bye bye grayscale. I spent 2 weeks dialing it back in with Avia and my eyeballs. I was NOT easy -- I had the drives and cuts all over the place until I finally figured out to push my blue cut and drop my red drive. Now it is very very good -- much better than OOB but I really think I just got lucky. I agonized for days that I would never get my picture back. Bottom line is: don't tweak the screen VRs unless you are willing to buy the Service Manual, Avia, and become a full blown DIYer (and possibly pay for a pro calibration anyway!!).

Originally posted by Hi50v500a/Dsh811
Anyone getting the problem of their set turning on when noone is there? Any possible do it yourself fixes?
Also any noticable differences switching to DVI cable instead of the composits? Thanks
Love the set....Great hd pictures off dishnetwork/dvd on composits so far.
Thanx Ross

Ross, you're talking about a totally different set there.

Here's the thread for you - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=351612 :)

Matt

Question for all you Hitachi 50V500 owners.

I just got my unit about a month ago strickly for playing DVD's.
I have a a DVI connection from the player to the TV.

When I play DVD's that are in the widescreen format I get a great picture.

However, when playing discs in the 4 X 3 format it's seems like the picture is always slightly blurry.

I've tried changing the aspect ratio on the Hitachi from 4:3 standard to 4:3 expanded (slighly worse) to zoom and 16: 9 standard even worse yet, well you get the idea.

Is their any adjustment or setting that will make picture quality for 4:3 as good as the widescreen DVD's?

Thanks for any input you can provide.

To make sure it's not the DVD player I hooked up my old one with the S-video connection and the picture still had blurriness to it.

Originally posted by Helter
Question for all you Hitachi 50V500 owners.


This is a S500/S700 thread (CRT-based) -- check out the Hitachi LCD Projection Owners thread.

I posted a problem I had 10 days ago (2/26/04 post#397) and when I didn't get a reply chalked it up to being a noob with few posts that people didn't want to deal with. Now I see replies to the person with green push and another thats in the wrong thread both with low posts and wonder WTF? Doesn't matter now. I had Circuit City pick up my 51S700 and deliver another. I guess time will tell..... retrac

I've had my s500 for about 5 months now and have been playing with the picture since day 1.

With 1080i inputs from Comcast, the picture is beautiful. No complaints.

However, with my 480p DVD Player, I notice some "graininess" (is that even a word?!) on white patches. For example, the sky in the background will be very grainy.

However, the ice in HD hockey looks gorgeous.

I do have the Avia disc and I've used that numerous times.

Am I just being too picky for 480p inputs or can I fix this?

Also, I've been keeping my s500 on the DAY (as opposed to NIGHT) setting (which appears to blank out the Sharpness setting) --- anybody else doing this ?

Thanks!

Originally posted by arbleb
However, with my 480p DVD Player, I notice some "graininess" (is that even a word?!) on white patches. For example, the sky in the background will be very grainy.

However, the ice in HD hockey looks gorgeous.



Sounds like your contrast is set too high, but I could be wrong. What do you have it set to for your DVD input?

Regards,
PolkThug

Originally posted by retrac
I posted a problem I had 10 days ago (2/26/04 post#397) and when I didn't get a reply chalked it up to being a noob with few posts that people didn't want to deal with. Now I see replies to the person with green push and another thats in the wrong thread both with low posts and wonder WTF? Doesn't matter now. I had Circuit City pick up my 51S700 and deliver another. I guess time will tell..... retrac

Yo, retrac. I'm a noob too. I went back and read your question and I think no one replied because most here either don't have a 700 model or don't use OTA for HD. Sounds like you did the right thing by getting another one.

As far as being snubbed, don't feel alone -- there are some "senior" members here who seem to be more interested in hearing themselves talk or drumming up ISF calibration business than engaging in banter with us greenhorns.

Originally posted by retrac
I posted a problem I had 10 days ago (2/26/04 post#397) and when I didn't get a reply chalked it up to being a noob with few posts that people didn't want to deal with. Now I see replies to the person with green push and another thats in the wrong thread both with low posts and wonder WTF? Doesn't matter now. I had Circuit City pick up my 51S700 and deliver another. I guess time will tell..... retrac

I think no reply was your answer - no one else has seen that.

:)

Matt

I have a S500 and I'm concerned about burn-in when watching SD with the side black bars (I can't stand the standard grey bars) or when watching 2.35:1 aspect movies with black bars top and bottom. I have contrast at 35.

Does anyone know how long before burn-in might occur?

Originally posted by arbleb

Also, I've been keeping my s500 on the DAY (as opposed to NIGHT) setting (which appears to blank out the Sharpness setting) --- anybody else doing this ?

Thanks!


Check the "noise reduction" in the user menu, if it is enabled the sharpness setting will be grey-out.

bhipps:

I watch SD 4:3 in the 4:3 expanded. I have gotten use to it now (Set isn't even a week old).

Whenever you have the black bars up there in any way shape or form, be sure your contrast is as low as possible. You will have to adjust your brightness to compensate, most likely. Whenever your pic is filling the screen is when you can feel comfortable running it at standard contrast, which for videophiles is usually halfway down from full.

Whenever I am watching OTA HD and the 4x3 commercials come, I switch to the regular 480i version of the show, which allows me to fill the screen via the Zoom feature. Since I am not usually watching the commercial anyway, filling the screen is all I want for that space of time. Contrast and br can also be minimized on that particular input.

Then when the comm. is over I switch it back to fullscreen HD, at regular contr/br levels, which are already set and don't need changing because I am switching between 2 different scanrates, each of which has dedicated User settings.

2 years old now, and not a trace of screenburn anywhere. You can tell everytime the program material fades to white, which fills the screen fully with white.


Mr Bob

Mr Bob,

Thanks for the info. Hey, I'm in Santa Rosa, CA. I will send you a PM and ask about your cal service for my Hitachi S500.

Well, I finally called 800-Hitachi to have them send out a tech about my slight geometry problem I am having with the left side.

I hope they dont laugh at me when they come out, Because its very slight, But I think I should have a good set considering paying upward of $1500 for it.

What do you guys think??

Attached a pic...

[edit] well, I decided to give it a go and went into the Dcam grid and adjusted the green line a little were it was curving and almost got it to an acceptable setting......Really could not get it PERFECT, But from the couch it looks ALOT better....I think I may cancel the tech call, This was a little easier then I thought + he might not know much about adjustments on this particular model....

Any suggestions??

On a Hitachi I don't think you're going to get it TOO much better than that. Mits and Pioneer have invisible offscreen rows and columns of points to use to affect the ones you CAN see, but Hitachi and Toshiba do not.

Be very careful who you let in there. He could conceivably make it worse.


Mr Bob

Originally posted by Parker Lewis
Any suggestions??

I think you'll be able to do just as good of a job (or better) yourself by adjusting the geometry in DCAM.

Matt

PS - Don't worry, "You can't Lose!" :D

First off, Hi! noob here...
I have looked high and low, I just bought a 57F500, I know this is the S thread, but I cant for the life of me find out what the differences between the F's and the S's other than the memory slot in the front. I am sure there are more.

Can anyone point me to a detailed breakdown of what the differences between the two are???

There's a feature comparison chart here -
http://www.hitachi.us/tv/resource/prod_bro/pdf/hitachi_2003_Nat_PTV.pdf

I guess the F does not have the "Super Contrast" CRT, or the "Anti-Reflective" screen. And day/night settings.

Matt

Originally posted by Mr Bob
On a Hitachi I don't think you're going to get it TOO much better than that. Mits and Pioneer have invisible offscreen rows and columns of points to use to affect the ones you CAN see, but Hitachi and Toshiba do not.

Be very careful who you let in there. He could conceivably make it worse.


Mr Bob

Well, I think you and BigRig were correct.....The tech did show up and from that point on called someone to guide him through the process of adjusting the Dcam.:rolleyes:

Unless he has better eyes then me (which he might) I think I actually could have gotten it straighter, Although it does look alot better as far as the curving goes.

I think next time I will either adjust it myself, Or call in an ISF tech to do the job.:o

He actually said "Oh, I have an old Mits at home that curves worse then this, And I just dont let it bother me", I was thinking "you can go now"....Of course this was after he was done adjusting it.

Geez, I think he actually COULD have done more damage then me.....Let this be a buyer public service announcement.

Just got my 65s700 and read a lot here. Would like to summarize my understanding of some issues and see if I can get agreement that I am thinking right.

1. ISSUE 1 DVD P Mode: DVDs look a lot better when they are NOT in progressive mode. This might depend on the DVD player but here is my understanding. DVDs are naturallly in 480i. THe 65S700 converts the DVD signal to 540p or 1080i. When in the regular mode the DVD sends over a 480i signal. When in Prog. mode it sends over a 480p signal. In Prog mode there are two conversions 480 i to 480 p then to 540p or 1080i. In regular mode there is only one conversion 480i to 540p or 1080i. Depending on nature of DVD player it might be better to let TV convert 480i to 540p or 1080i. Is that right? Are there DVD players that are better?

2. ISSUE 2 SIGNAL BREAKUP ON STARTUP: When I turn TV it seems like it takes it about 5-10 min to warm up. During this time the signal will break up before it becomes stable. This is whether I am on satellite dish, OTA or DVD. Is this a normal circumstance and not one to worry about?

3. ISSUE 3 UNDERSTANDING DIGITAL: Not all digital is in HD. Not all HD is in 16x9. Is that right? The constant resize of the image is getting to be a pain. Am I missing the AUTOSIZE button?

4. ISSUE 4 ADJUSTMENTS: Not all TV repair men understand these new TVs. Don' let anyone touch your set for fine adjustments that is not ISF Certified. I've seen that statement a lot and want to confirm experiences.

2. My 51 S500 only takes a few seconds to stabilize. About 2 minutes for the color to be completely accurate.
1. Just try both and see. It's about the same on mine. The theory is the dvd player knows what is coming while the tv scaler does not.
3. All HD is 16:9 by definition. but on the compnent in, non hd stations will be cropped by black on the sides in 16:9 aspect ratio.
4. Depends on what is needed and how your set is working. For instance my Hitachi is ISF calibrated and holds its adjustments unusualywell. Now I don't know if antennae A is working. But I so rarely use that input that even if I prove it is the tv I wouldn't make a warranty service call because I don't want a stranger fooling around with it.

Originally posted by seadoo
2. ISSUE 2 SIGNAL BREAKUP ON STARTUP: When I turn TV it seems like it takes it about 5-10 min to warm up. During this time the signal will break up before it becomes stable. This is whether I am on satellite dish, OTA or DVD. Is this a normal circumstance and not one to worry about?


I don't think that's normal...I've seen another thread that sounds similar to your issue -
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=357578

Matt

Thanks Bigrig. That sounds just like my problem. In your reading to do you think that is something that needs to be done under warranty now. I am really concerned that an unknowing repair guy will mess it up worse. My picture is good right now except for this problem.

Originally posted by seadoo

3. ISSUE 3 UNDERSTANDING DIGITAL: Not all digital is in HD. Not all HD is in 16x9. Is that right? The constant resize of the image is getting to be a pain. Am I missing the AUTOSIZE button?



There might be one exception - when a true HD movie in 2.35:1 is being shown in full regalia, where the t/b bars might be there. But this is rare. Usually they crop it down to a true 1.78:1 HD 16x9 format.

But if they do leave it alone, as I have seen done occasionally on 2.35:1 movies shown in true HD, you will see those t/b bars. This is definitely not the kind of material you want to be using when sizing your HD to your set!

Which is how I do my calibrations. The Accupel has lots of test patterns that are incredibly helpful in calibrating HD, and I use lots of them. But the first step is resizing the image to take in the everpresent overscan - at least on CRT based units - and using the incoming HD signal with true HD on it is the best way to size HD to your particular set, using the SM sizing parameters to shrink its image and discover where the borders are, then recentering the image if necessary and then re-introducing a certain amount of your own overscan - usually much less than they did at the factory.

Once you have done one true HD program, all seem to always fit perfectly thereafter, unless you catch the occasional upconverted set of scenes. Years ago HDNet was everpresent on DirecTV and as such was very trustable for use during the daytime for sizing up the HD during a calibration, but also in its loops it had a few scenes of rivers in the Pacific Northwest that were kinda 15x9 rather than 16x9, and if you looked close you saw that it was upconverted SD rather than natively shot - or filmed - HD material.

Haven't noticed this lately, but ABC used to put out about a 14x9 signal on some of its news announcer material, which allowed about 2" of blackbar at each side, on a 65" RPTV. While still 720p, it was not HD. It was actually ultra-wide digital feed rather than HD feed.

This 2" of black on the sides would not be noticed on the regular, factory-sized, OOB extra-wide RPTV overscan on CRT RPTV units, the kind of overscan that deprives you of part of your picture at the edges, which we restore to you during a calibration.

I believe the fixed pixel units do not have this ultra-wide overscan the CRT units have always had. Correct? Haven't watched for that in my observation of fixed pixel units yet...


What is the AUTOSIZE button and what does it do?


Mr Bob

Ok guys then can somebody straighten me out on this.

When a signal is coming in over the air it is inputting at 1080i or 720p (ABC) yet the picture is sometimes only a 4x3. Does that mean digital at 1080i but not HD? I'm confused.

It is sd that is upconverted at the source to 1080i/720p...it isn't true hd ...that requires 1080i/720p source material. With video it must be shot with hd cameras , with film it must be transferred from film to hd tape in the telecine process.

Autosize (aspect) attempts to detect anamorphic signal or not at the input and use the appropriate screen setting (16:9/zoom etc) generaly it works quite well.

Originally posted by Vhagar
I am having this exact problem. After I did a convergence I initialized though, and went back in after and the convergence was set. But i've been making adjustments, and I need to do another convergence, but really want to know how I can get it back to normal.

Does it tell you in the Service manual? Anyone got a SM in adobe format?

I encountered the same problem tonight. Right now, when I hit the MF button, I see "static focus" and a screen with four screens shows up. I followed the outlined steps on how to do the DCAM convergence but the set didn't do nothing to initialize the MF. This was after I got the green dots.

Would someone please help me out for a solution?


julian


EDIT: The problem has been ressolved. PIP CH button is the SURF button.

Hello all. I am new to this thread and hope that you may help me. I bought the Hitachi S500 57 inch from CC the other day. Lately, every morning that I turn the unit on, it has horizontal static lines in the picture! It lasts for about 5-10 minutes, then goes away? I have ruled out AV interference, so has anybody heard of this before?

Brentman I am having same problem. Check out link in Post 472 BIGRIG sent me. Looks like a lot of people having same problem. Let me know how it goes for you

I have a question for S700 owners. When you are receiving a digital non-HD(480p) signal via your internal ATSC tuner, can you stretch it to fill the screen and get rid of the black bars on the side? I am trying to find out if any of the sets with built in ATSC tuners will allow you to do this. I know that the Sony Ws550s will not.
Thanks
JW

Originally posted by jwholm
I have a question for S700 owners. When you are receiving a digital non-HD(480p) signal via your internal ATSC tuner, can you stretch it to fill the screen and get rid of the black bars on the side? I am trying to find out if any of the sets with built in ATSC tuners will allow you to do this. I know that the Sony Ws550s will not.
Thanks
JW

You can do a Zoom, but not a non-linear "Stretch".

Matt

My 57S700 arrives next Monday from Sears. CC has Dc'd carrying the 700s and according to the 18 year old sales person on the floor they don't carry any PR CRTs with built-in tuners. Sears had the 51 inch on sale, checked into it and it is a Dc'd model (for Sears) with none availabe. BUT in the stores they selling the 57 for the sale price of the 51! Went ahead and got the $400 3 year plan, though I have the queasy feeling its a waste, my current Hitachi is 6 years old and going strong but who knows. D*Tv comes tomorrow with the reg TiVo setup. Going to see if the installer will fish my wall for a coax and install an attic OTA antenna too. Can't wait! Wonder if the Braves are being broadcasted in HD?

Two Sears techs have visited my house to listen to the fan on my 57S700. The first one said it's normal and wouldn't do anything. The second one came a week later and said the same thing. Then he called someone else (supervisor, Hitachi, ???) and said that there was a service bulletin out for new fans.

The part was ordered and arrived a few days later. The Sears tech came back, installed it and...

IT SOUNDS EXACTLY THE SAME!

This is really frustrating. I've now had three service visits and nothing was accomplished. I think I'm just gonna have to live with the sound.

Originally posted by seadoo
Ok guys then can somebody straighten me out on this.

When a signal is coming in over the air it is inputting at 1080i or 720p (ABC) yet the picture is sometimes only a 4:3. Does that mean digital at 1080i but not HD? I'm confused.

The broadcasters take a 4:3 480i standard definition video and add black bars to the sides to make it 16:9 and upconvert it to 1080i or 720p resolution. The video being broadcast is high-def resolution and aspect ratio, but what you see is the original 4:3 image with black bars on the sides (pillar boxed).

Even more interesting is when the original 4:3 image is of letter-boxed material (black bars on top and bottom). When the image gets pillar boxed to make it 16:9, you end up with an image that is "postage stamped" (i.e. black bars all the way around).

Hi all I'm new to the club and a first time poster,Hopefully I'm in the right Forum.Any way I been following this forum for several weeks and recently(today) joined the Hitachi S series owners Club.Sears delivered the set today unharmed in anyway I'm truly thrilled....My story goes like this, I dreamed of owning a DLP set but could not wait for the prices to fall,so last month I ordered a Toshiba 57H93 from Sears.com The set arrived a week later with (3) 4 inch long scratches right down the middle of the screen Dang. anyway Sears was unable to find a comparable set or agree to have the Tosh repaired so I had to return it. After having the Tosh for a week I am glad it went back,something or something's just wasn't right about it.It was not the RPTV I had in mind ... The shape was odd and so on IMO. Let me say I am truly impressed with this Hitachi,its pleasing to the eye IMO and was very easy to set up and get started I had the Tosh for a week playing around with the setup ,never did get comfortable with it.The PQ was Okay on the Tosh but the Hitachi is better IMO I had to Hitachi set up and all my components plugged in and working in just under 1 hour we are watching American Idol listening to the Bose right now My research and the bad luck of the delivery guys paid off.I know I'm going to thoroughly enjoy my Hitachi...Thanks for the wealth of information over the last few weeks. I know now where to go for answers..........

You've also joined the "I owned another brand and now know better" club...welcome. I wonder where the 1 Sony and 3 tosh clunkers I sent back ended up. Hmmm...well as long as they're not ruining my HT experience any longer. Even if you ignore what I think is the superior picture quality of the hitachi (hard to ignore)it's the user features like day/night mode, decoder access the way the menus and inputs work .... all so superior to other brands its just amazing. The S/T series really are a videophile piece while the others seem to be just consumer boxes. Calibrators and owners love em.
Enjoy.

I took delivery on Friday (3/19) of a 65S500. My choice was mainly based on in-store observation, but various discussions in this forum convinced me that I was making the right choice. Thanks to all the contributors.

I've done the basic Avia adjustments, and HD looks excellent and SD looks mediocre -- as expected. My main annoyance at this point is a substantial amount of overscan. Is this something I can adjust out myself, or do I need to wait until I can get the set ISF'd?

From what I read so far, one could do the overscan adjustment. But keep in mind, once you do that you'll have to redo the other areas.

jdata,

Careful with the overscan adjustment, I haven't read a proper procedure to do overscan properly on this forum as of yet

slimjim

Agreed,

I think the HTSpot forum may have in their tweaks section.

Thanks for the swift response.

I've taken my first look at the service manual this afternoon, and it's clear that with my lack of experience I would need more than just a "tweak" to do the job properly. I'll wait until the set has enough time on it to be adjusted professionally.

I am offended that as a pioneering owner of the SWX 57 I am not part of this thread. If Columbus hadn't travelled first, who knows if you would live here today? We paid the big dollars to finance the improvements that are your set, and we laid all the tech posts that led you to the finest overall TV in the Hitachi, and saved you from a Mitsubishi that would only do PIP split with both pictures in analog, or would show you analog where everyone was short, squatty and grainy, and we also helped save you from LCD's with little black level and DLP's where you can see the color wheel change scenes like a cat at a Tennis match, yet you don't include us in your thread. I have to wish that all your CRT's fill with dust, and your dimmer locks up, and I am sure you would want nothing less after thinking about how greedy your position is to your elder's!


In closing you are welcome for the high price we paid, and the more antiquated features we assumed because you were too cheap, and we forgive you because we have now all learned that next round, we will lie about what the features and drawbacks are because being a pioneer isn't respected on this site.

Frank - Overscan is controlled by two knobs on a circuit board inside the TV. Check out the "51F500 Tweaks" thread for more info. You can't go much below the factory overscan without undesirable results.

Matt

Interesting observation??? View a test pattern that allows you to see overscan % such as DVE, In my case 7% was the horizontal and 5% vertical. I adjusted the horizontal to 5% using the pots on the circuit board
and then completed geometry. Looked at the test pattern again and guess what? The horizontal was again at 7%. The pots on the circuit board (according to the service manual) only control the width and hight of the
raster or lighted areas of the screen and should be adjusted to a specific dimension depending on your screen size, where you set geometry apparently controls how much of the actual picture you can see,
Am I wrong?????

Hey addicted ...meds run out? LOL. You swx guys with your stone remotes and wide-rock tubes slay me! (kidding ...tounge in cheek...be calm). Overscan seems to be a bit of a bear on this years models (including the x500 wideneck). Was it a problem on last years? Any swxphiles get down to 4-4.5% without convergence errors? I'm at 5% on the 57s500 and cant go lower without issues but gotta say the hitachis edge focus is so good (better than any other crtrp I've seen) with the 5 element lens it makes up for the lack of flexibility with overscan.

You can adjust overscan with either the pots or the dcam convergence/geomety grid. Sounds like you pulled it in with the pots then stretched it out with the dcam. The ideal to avoid convergence/majic focus errors is to use a factory spec overlay and adjust with dcam.

Thats what I ended up doing, set width and height with the pots, for my 51S500 distance is 20.1" Vertical, 40" horizontal to the 6th green line
from center in both directions at zero DCAM.
And then adjust geometry using overlay. Results= 5% Vertical, 5.5%
Horizontal. Convergence seems to be holding and not drifting now.
Picture clarity seems better because of more accurate convergence then Out of Box settings.

EDIT 22.0 and 40.1" (Sorry)

Addicted,

that is why I referenced all of the previous threads on the older units. However I humbly apologize for not thanking you personally.

thank you and to all who have pioneered in the Hitachi units that have given us the results we see/use in our sets today.

Paul, - you got any more of those meds ... I could use some.

Chris

I just noticed something on my set, 57S500, the 4:3 Standard mode is more to the right. Is there a way to resolve this?

BTW, the set is on its 19th day so would it be best to call Hitachi to bring a tech over?