Hi,
My Hitachi 57s500 plays just fine until I plug somthing like a game player or a DVD player into one of the inputs then the picture starts to roll slowly up and will not stop. But the cableTV input works just fine. Is there a fix for this. Ive heard or read somewhere that the Mitsubishi models had a problem with the PIP module. Could this be the case for my Hit.57s500? Please help!

The problem the Mit's had was in their SMD caps, used in that module. They would lose vertical sync, or hor sync, or both and thus the whole picture.

The fix was usually to replace C7001, tho other caps in there went bad also.

Hitachi told me once during a repair I called in about where one of their defective SMDs would be, and presto, changing it out solved the problem. Neither of those companies have ANY kind words for SMD caps. A year or 2 later Mit changed over to strictly the old fashioned electolytic caps in their newer PIP circuits, before they stopped making CRT tech.

So I wouldn't be a bit surprised...

:rolleyes:

Mr Bob

Thanks Bob,
any idea which smd cap could be bad on my Hit..57s500?

Thanks Bob,
any idea which smd cap could be bad on my Hit..57s500?


No, sorry. Have not come across this one before -

Thanks for taking the time to help.. It sure is appreciated!!

-Brandon

Thanks Bob,
any idea which smd cap could be bad on my Hit..57s500?

Sometimes a bad cap has leaked black brackish stuff out of it, which smells like fish. Repaired streakiness in a Mit that way once.

This black stuff sometimes makes it to the bottom of the board somehow, at the pad! Must crawl thru the solder...


Mr Bob

Thanks for taking the time to help.. It sure is appreciated!!

-Brandon

;)

Searching through this thread did not bring any results, so...

What resolution/refresh rate settings should I use on a Nvidia 9800GT videocard attached to my Hitachi 65S700 through the DVI connector?

1920x1280 at 60 Hz, if that's possible. Or 1280x720.

I tried this years back with my PC, and I remember it was more complicated than I would like. Something about front porch/back porch and stuff.

Edit - Here's the thread I used for guidance: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=206854

Matt

Thanks. That helps. You are right about it being a pain ;)

Yes, your display is HDCP complaint. My display, the previous year's SWX20B, is also HDCP complaint and I have had no trouble with HDCP equipped devices.

Thanks,
Mark

I'm interested in purchasing a Sony STR-DG720 receiver for the HDMI inputs. If the 57S500 is HDCP complaint, does anyone know whether or not I can output HDMI from this receiver to the 57S500 using an HDMI-DVI cable?

Thanks in advance.

I'm interested in purchasing a Sony STR-DG720 receiver for the HDMI inputs. If the 57S500 is HDCP complaint, does anyone know whether or not I can output HDMI from this receiver to the 57S500 using an HDMI-DVI cable?

Thanks in advance.

It's not whether the display is HDCP compliant. It's whether the sending source is.

I just did a hookup that was fairly simple comparatively speaking, but got hung up when the Pio receiver would pass the BluRay HDMI just fine, but would not pass the Comcast cable's HDMI, via DVI, thru the receiver's switching.

I called Pioneer, and found that HDCP only kicks in if an intermediate device is involved. When the digital stream is going straight to the display from the source, no HDCP is involved because no intermediary device is in the path of the digital stream, which could potentially be trying to copy HD material illegally. It works fine. But since that Comcast box is not HDCP compliant, the receiver would not pass it thru unscathed - there was a monster error message blocking most of the picture saying that HDCP was attempting to be abrogated, internally generated, coming from inside the Pioneer receiver.

Pioneer said to call the maker of the offending source unit - in this case the Comcast box - and find out if IT was HDCP compliant. I did, and Comcast had no idea what I was talkling about, had never had that query before.

So I did as the error message instructed - hooked the cable box up via component and fibre optic audio instead of HDMI. Worked just fine that way, even tho the installation was now not quite as simple as it woulda been with all HDMI switching...


Mr Bob

Bob, thats interesting as my Onkyo 605 has no problem outputting via an HDMI-DVI cable to the Hitachi. I have a DirectTV DVR (HR20-100) and an Oppo DVD player as sources connected via HDMI. I've never updated the hardware/software since I purchased the 57S700 4 years ago now. Picture is still fabulous too, though I know I should have it cleaned inside....Everett

Bob, thats interesting as my Onkyo 605 has no problem outputting via an HDMI-DVI cable to the Hitachi. I have a DirectTV DVR (HR20-100) and an Oppo DVD player as sources connected via HDMI. I've never updated the hardware/software since I purchased the 57S700 4 years ago now. Picture is still fabulous too, though I know I should have it cleaned inside....Everett


So DirecTV's STB must be HDCP compliant. Remember, the BD was also, in my owner's HU. But not the cable box. Both were going thru the Pioneer AV receiver's switching. One got thru, the other didn't, no matter which actual input I used on either at the receiver.


b

I'm experiencing an audio problem that's noticeable when I'm watching football games. The announcers voices are subdued and the background noises (fan's, stadium announcements, stadium music, etc) are enhanced.
I've tried trouble shooting this via the audio menu, but can't seem to correct.
This only seems to happen sporadically, but is particularly annoying.

Anyone know the cause and solution. Thanks?

D

I'm experiencing an audio problem that's noticeable when I'm watching football games. The announcers voices are subdued and the background noises (fan's, stadium announcements, stadium music, etc) are enhanced.
I've tried trouble shooting this via the audio menu, but can't seem to correct.
This only seems to happen sporadically, but is particularly annoying.

Anyone know the cause and solution. Thanks?

D

You've lost your center channel, some way or other. Is your audio coming from your display or your AV receiver? You didn't say.

If the receiver, the display is in the clear.


b

I'm experiencing an audio problem that's noticeable when I'm watching football games. The announcers voices are subdued and the background noises (fan's, stadium announcements, stadium music, etc) are enhanced.
I've tried trouble shooting this via the audio menu, but can't seem to correct.
This only seems to happen sporadically, but is particularly annoying.

Anyone know the cause and solution. Thanks?

D

It could be at the source as well. I have watched episodes of 'Lost' and have experienced times where all dialog is missing and only sound effects and sound track remain. After a few minutes things then return to normal. If I rewind the problem scene on my HDPVR, the problem remains, so I know it is a problem with the source.

Wayne

does anyone know how I can reset the password for this TV? I forgot what it was/

Tony

I think it was four zeroes, unless you changed it to a different password.

Mike

How's your Hitachi, Mike? Forgot to check in with you before CES!


b

Still doin' great, Bob. Such a nice picture I just can't justify getting something new. We had our 14th Super Bowl party here last week, and got a lot of positive comments on the picture.

Mike

Still doin' great, Bob. Such a nice picture I just can't justify getting something new. We had our 14th Super Bowl party here last week, and got a lot of positive comments on the picture.

Mike

Whoo hoo! And we weren't even able to do all we wanted to do, the one time I WAS there, because of the idiot installer scratching the hell out of the coolant covers on the guns you DID have, at that time!

;)

b

Any suggestions on a digital STB for my Hitachi 57SWX20B. Anybody have any experience with the current Samsung DTB-H260F unit. Also, will the component input accept and display an 1080i signal, or is it just better to use the DVI input.

Thanks in advance.

Also, will the component input accept and display an 1080i signal, or is it just better to use the DVI input.

Thanks in advance.

I have yet to see an analog CRT triple-gun RPTV whose HDMI circuit is better than its component circuit. HDMI adds just one more stumbling block, in terms of upconversions, and to do it right is evidently quite challenging in the first place, from all the discussions I have seen on the net. Just having it there at all sets up a massive hoop for the set's electronics to have to jump thru. I won't even USE my Mit's HDMI circuit it's so bad, and I have the final Mit series ever built by them, with everything that was state of the art in CRT tech at that time, including the latest HDMI circuit possible from Mit.

I'd stick with component. I do, and my screenshots are proof of how great component can look. Among other things, it's the closest thing possible to true RGB input, where RGB is the final stage on ALL CRT tech, at the CRT socket boards themselves. This is true for ALL CRT tech, whether RPTV or front pj.

Component does outrageously gorgeous 1080i images without even breaking a sweat.


b

Thanks for the reply Robert!

My brother has a Samung LCD with a PS3 hooked up for 1080p resolution and it still amazes me that my several year old Hitachi RPTV with a Denon 1600 hooked up, 480p, via component can still hold it's own.

Thanks for the reply Robert!

My brother has a Samung LCD with a PS3 hooked up for 1080p resolution and it still amazes me that my several year old Hitachi RPTV with a Denon 1600 hooked up, 480p, via component can still hold it's own.

You must have good 480p. Congrats -

Get HD! Fully calibrated, not only will your statement stand, but the pic will be just as good as the LCD's, if not better.


BTW, the PS3 does not do blacker than black on HD, which is easily confirmed on the BD version of DVE, using the Pluge pattern. Might want to step up to a BDP that will, as depth of shadow detail sucks on the PS3 on BluRay HD, on anything with lots of darkness and shadow detail content.


b

Was looking at the possibility of removing my glare screen on my 65s700. Kids are now 10+ and a little more responsible. Followed the guide on the removal proceedure and stopped after the front surround bezel would not release. Looked inside and noticed lots of dust on the 3 guns and cleaned them with windex. Ok, I thought that was funny, but in reality I used a dry lint free micro cloth for auto detailing to gently wipe the 3 lenses. What a huge difference after 5+ years of dust accumilation. Brightness and contrast had to be lowered 20 levels each after upping the numbers over the years. I had been thinking of getting a new TV (Mitsu wd-73835), but after viewing the live HD broadcast of the San Francisco Chinese New Year parade I put all plans on hold. The picture is beautiful again. Yes, things get cut off the bottom, like the 800 numbers of many infomercials and I'm missing some data from the sides due to the limited resolution, but for a set that has been on 7+ hrs a day for many years I could not have made a better investment.

Was looking at the possibility of removing my glare screen on my 65s700. Kids are now 10+ and a little more responsible. Followed the guide on the removal proceedure and stopped after the front surround bezel would not release. Looked inside and noticed lots of dust on the 3 guns and cleaned them with windex. Ok, I thought that was funny, but in reality I used a dry lint free micro cloth for auto detailing to gently wipe the 3 lenses. What a huge difference after 5+ years of dust accumilation. Brightness and contrast had to be lowered 20 levels each after upping the numbers over the years. I had been thinking of getting a new TV (Mitsu wd-73835), but after viewing the live HD broadcast of the San Francisco Chinese New Year parade I put all plans on hold. The picture is beautiful again. Yes, things get cut off the bottom, like the 800 numbers of many infomercials and I'm missing some data from the sides due to the limited resolution, but for a set that has been on 7+ hrs a day for many years I could not have made a better investment.


It's not limited res that causes you to miss what's on the edges, it's overscan. The res on these babies is really superb, once dialed in properly!

Hope you were VERY careful when cleaning the lenses - they are plastic and VERY vulnerable.

HINT - NEVER go back and forth on them like you would a window. Also, I don't use microfiber cloths because they are not nearly absorbent enough for my tastes, on these tasks -


b

Is there any special procedure that I should take to separate the top and bottom cabinate's on the Hitachi 65 T500 TV?
I've sold the set and I remember the top part comes off, but is there any special connectors that need to be disconnected or do you remove all 8 allan screws and the 5 hex screws on the back and lift the top off.
I seem to have misplaced the manual and I'm hopping someone knows.

Hey Robert

Any suggestions on a 1080i DVD player via component? I've been reading alot of the reviews on what's out there now but most are taylored for the HDMI input and 1080p resolution. I would appreciate any recommendations you may have.

Hey Robert

Any suggestions on a 1080i DVD player via component? I've been reading alot of the reviews on what's out there now but most are taylored for the HDMI input and 1080p resolution. I would appreciate any recommendations you may have.

I hear Oppo makes one that can be hacked to put out 1080i on component from SD 480i DVDs.

The Samsung 841 also does it, properly hacked. Since I now have an HD DVDP and BluRay also, plus the HD Fury II for HDMI conversion, I can part with my fully hacked 841, if you want to contact me directly about it. It does delicious 1080i via component from SD discs -


b

Is there any special procedure that I should take to separate the top and bottom cabinate's on the Hitachi 65 T500 TV?
I've sold the set and I remember the top part comes off, but is there any special connectors that need to be disconnected or do you remove all 8 allan screws and the 5 hex screws on the back and lift the top off.
I seem to have misplaced the manual and I'm hopping someone knows.

See attached PDF. Hope it helps.

Wayne

I have a 57S500 that I bought in Feb '04. Was very happy with the set except for some centering and image bending issues near the edges, so in January I finally decided to get an ISF calibration and had Gregg Loewen come down and calibrate it. He fixed some of the worst color he said he's ever seen - the grayscale was so bad it wasn't even on the chart - and made the picture go from what I thought was good to absolutely mind-blowing.

Unfortunately, about a week ago, I started seeing a problem. On the upper half of the screen, there's a thin horizontal section from the center to the left edge where the image is vertically stretched ever so slightly. On a still or horizontally panning shot, I don't really notice it - but whenever there's vertical movement, it looks like whatever's in that area is stretching, bulging, or flowing over something. It's extremely distracting when watching stuff like Planet Earth or playing 2D games.

When I asked Gregg about it, he said it would be hard to completely fix, and since there was already edge distortion that he couldn't get rid of when he calibrated the set, I'm thinking it's time to move on to an FP display. I'm currently planning on a 54" or 58" 12G Panny plasma when they come out this summer - but, as there's six months until then, I'm open to suggestions about how to ameliorate this issue, not to mention I'd have little chance of selling the set without some kind of fix.

Full disclosure: Gregg removed the glare screen while he was here, and about two weeks ago I had to press pretty hard on the upper right side of the screen to scrape off a solidified droplet of sugar solution that had gotten on there (it was medicine for one of my cats, and giving medicine to a cat isn't easy). I don't know if this contributed to the problem, but I may as well mention it.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have a 57S500 that I bought in Feb '04. Was very happy with the set except for some centering and image bending issues near the edges, so in January I finally decided to get an ISF calibration and had Gregg Loewen come down and calibrate it. He fixed some of the worst color he said he's ever seen - the grayscale was so bad it wasn't even on the chart - and made the picture go from what I thought was good to absolutely mind-blowing.

Unfortunately, about a week ago, I started seeing a problem. On the upper half of the screen, there's a thin horizontal section from the center to the left edge where the image is vertically stretched ever so slightly. On a still or horizontally panning shot, I don't really notice it - but whenever there's vertical movement, it looks like whatever's in that area is stretching, bulging, or flowing over something. It's extremely distracting when watching stuff like Planet Earth or playing 2D games.

When I asked Gregg about it, he said it would be hard to completely fix, and since there was already edge distortion that he couldn't get rid of when he calibrated the set, I'm thinking it's time to move on to an FP display. I'm currently planning on a 54" or 58" 12G Panny plasma when they come out this summer - but, as there's six months until then, I'm open to suggestions about how to ameliorate this issue, not to mention I'd have little chance of selling the set without some kind of fix.

Full disclosure: Gregg removed the glare screen while he was here, and about two weeks ago I had to press pretty hard on the upper right side of the screen to scrape off a solidified droplet of sugar solution that had gotten on there (it was medicine for one of my cats, and giving medicine to a cat isn't easy). I don't know if this contributed to the problem, but I may as well mention it.

Anyone have any ideas?

What you're talking about is called speedbumping, and it's sometimes small, sometimes large in its scope, and its distracting ability. It's a geometry issue, and CAN be remedied virtually completely, I have done it on Hitachis to such a level that it's no longer noticeable, even on movie credits. However, it's difficult when using their internal grid.

If in DCAM yours has the ability to hit Menu and send your own grid in there, it would help. Circles help to get geometry in line, as do boxes that should all be the same size. I had to work on my 73" Mit over several sessions to completely get it right.

I would not be surprised - and personally would not blame him -
if Gregg charged extra for this, as it is probably within factory spec as we speak. I have seen some pretty bad geometry out there, OOB.

Gregg is the consumate professional, he will do right by you -


b

Re: upconverting 720p
I have a 57 SWX20b, still a great box, and have only had to repair the convergence once so far.
Recently the old marantz dvd player packed it in, and so decided to get a sony blu-ray - BDP-BX1.
The SWX does not accept the 1080i or 720p signal from the sony, it will only do 480p on normal dvds. Tried the sony on other tvs, and it will push a very good 720p upconverted feed - the 'fill' is quite good - so would like to see about getting the SWX to accept the 720p or 1080i from the sony.
The SWX 1080i works fine on HDTV, so I know the 1080 is fine.
Any experience on upconverting with the SWX?

Does the SWX have DVI with HDCP support? You need HDCP to get a 1080i signal from a bluray player.

rader - thanks for the reply, and I'll sheepishly say I did not understand the HDCP implication, because I assumed it would work over component, but from what I have just read, it will only work on HDMI or DVI - is that true? (hey - can't believe EVERYTHING you read on the web ;)
Which is why it worked on the other tvs, because I used HDMI.
The SWX only has DVI and component.
Any suggestions on getting from the sony bd to DVI?
Thanks in advance - I'm new here!

Monoprice has some hdmi->DVI cables. Should work. I watch blurays over a HTPC with DVI output, so I've never tried it.

OK, looks like a $14 cable, I can live with that...

dekdekdek12,

Doesn't your blu ray output 1080i via component? Your SWX should certainly handle a 1080i input thru component or DVI/hdmi. My UWX can do 1080 from my samsung blu ray with component or dvi...... Maybe your players resolution is set to output 480? Hope this helps

To get 1080i to your set via component, you have to have your BDP set to go no higher than 1080i. If you set it to go all the way up to 1080p on a CRT RPTV nothing will happen, as none of those was ever designed for p, and then they stopped being produced.

CRTs will do p with no sweat - as in ceiling pj - just not RPTV CRT. It only goes up to i. It's in the design of the circuitry, not the design of CRTs themselves. The guns have no problem with it at all.

Component is still the best way to get true HD to CRT RPTV. HDMI is not necessarily, tho I have heard some good reports about it. Component is ALWAYS excellent on HD for CRT RPTV.

If you're talking about upconverted 480i->1080i, it's a different discussion altogether. That's when HDCP kicks in and demands HDMI...




b

Thanks folks!

The SWX at 1080i and lower works great via component for our HD TV box, but as Mr Bob points out, upconverting DVDs requires HDCP, and HDCP means DVI or HDMI only, not component. When I was connected via component, it would not go higher than 480 no matter what settings I used on the BD player. The SWX has HDCP support through the one DVI port.

As for a $14 cable - ya right! Mon$ter wants $120 for a DVI-to-HDMI cable, but I found one locally for $30 and its all good - BD player is now upconverting to 720p (and 1080i).

Stick with 1080i unless absolutely necessary, it has roughly twice the pixel density of 720p, plus there is always a lot more ee on 720 than 1080, mulching things up at your edges and compromising your depth perception. Use 720p only if you need to for games, etc.

www.Monoprice.com has the best prices I know for such things for us mere mortals, MCM is excellent also -

I would be interested to know which is better - the built-in DVI port or using the HD Fury II on component.

On my Mit there's no contest, the built-in HDMI sucks bigtime in comparison to the excellent HD Fury->component for the upconversion -


b

I have noticed lately when watch DVDs that are higher than 16:9 aspect ratio that there seems to be some bleed when images are bright into the black bands at the top and bottom. I don't recall this when I first bought the set (51s700). Any suggestions on a solution?

I have noticed lately when watch DVDs that are higher than 16:9 aspect ratio that there seems to be some bleed when images are bright into the black bands at the top and bottom. I don't recall this when I first bought the set (51s700). Any suggestions on a solution?

Clean the dust from the CRT lenses.

Clean the dust from the CRT lenses.


And mirror. And from between each lens bottom and the CRT coolant cover beneath it, if necessary.

That's 1 additional surface if you only add the mirror, and 6 additional surfaces to that, if you add the deeper optics because they need it. 7 additional surfaces yet to be cleaned in most cases, after the lens tops. 10 surfaces total that need cleaning, if the set needs and is to receive the nth degree of optics cleaning. The inner lenses in each lens stack are not necessary to clean, only the ones at the outside of each stack.

You can tell about how dirty those other surfaces are by specific techniques. Usually it doesn't look like they are dirty at first glance.


b

Thanks. I am above average in terms of taking things apart and putting them back together. Is this the sort of thing that is reasonable for a do-it-yourselfer or should it really be done by a tech? And if I can do it myself can you point me to some decent materials on the "how to"?

And mirror. And from between each lens bottom and the CRT cover beneath it, if necessary.

That's 1 additional surface if you only add the mirror, and 6 additional surfaces to that, if you add the deeper optics because they need it. 7 additional surfaces yet to be cleaned in most cases, after the lens tops. 10 surfaces total that need cleaning, if the set needs and is to receive the nth degree of optics cleaning. The inner lenses in each lens stack are not necessary to clean, only the ones at the outside of each stack.

You can tell about how dirty those other surfaces are by specific techniques. Usually it doesn't look like they are dirty at first glance.


b

Thanks. I am above average in terms of taking things apart and putting them back together. Is this the sort of thing that is reasonable for a do-it-yourselfer or should it really be done by a tech? And if I can do it myself can you point me to some decent materials on the "how to"?

This can be done by a DIYselfer. However you need to be very careful on not scratching any of the surfaces.

Here is the "Mother of RPCRT" threads ... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922

Another one ... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1037039&highlight=rpcrt+cleaning

And ofcourse if you search for cleaning will give you alot more threads...

This will bring your set to like new condition, you'll like the result.

Hi,

I have had my 65s700 trouble free since 2003, it has been a great TV. However, recenlty (the last three months) I have noticed the black getting redder and redder and the sharpness seems to be fading. I do the magic focus but that does not help. I even tried to adjust the color manually and the black just won't be black anymore. The set hasn't been ever been cleaned, will cleaning the set return the black or is there another problem developing. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. :confused:

Oh one other thing, during the magic focus the background color is still black,
and all the colors are normal.

Sounds like your grayscale is drifting off and needs rebalancing. Not uncommon in CRT tech after years of faithful service.

Or your focus block needs to be rebalanced in its Screen settings - it may be degenerating, as there is HV in there at all times the set is on. Or one of your CRTs could be having an internal problem.

Your optics obviously need cleaning as well.


b

Thought I'd reprint this...


7 year old Pioneer Elite, same day before and after a full cal, including internal blackening with a black Sharpie or 2 - different sizes - plus both levels of optics cleaning including the deeper optics cleaning.

Pix are mirror imaged, sorry, done by my roomie the one who scanned them -


Before -

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/7316/opticsbeforeaq0.jpg[/URL]

After -

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1382/opticsafterzt4.jpg[/URL]

Sounds like your grayscale is drifting off and needs rebalancing. Not uncommon in CRT tech after years of faithful service.

Or your focus block needs to be rebalanced in its Screen settings - it may be degenerating, as there is HV in there at all times the set is on. Or one of your CRTs could be having an internal problem.

Your optics obviously need cleaning as well.


b

Mr Bob. Is there a procedure to follow to rebalance the gray scale or to tell if there is a problem with a crt?

Mr Bob. Is there a procedure to follow to rebalance the gray scale or to tell if there is a problem with a crt?

Yes. Either get a local tech on it or contact me off board. Or surf till you find something. It's not easily gotten into, and can involve working with live circuitry. I would be glad to talk with you privately about it for a few minutes anyway...


b

Sounds tricky mabe I should call a tech. Although I am pretty handy and am laid off with lots of time on my hands.
I guess I am not allowed to pm till I post 5 times

Sorry (4)

Sorry (5)

Sounds tricky mabe I should call a tech. Although I am pretty handy and am laid off with lots of time on my hands.
I guess I am not allowed to pm till I post 5 times

PLEASE DON'T PM ME! Please use my regular contact info if you want to reach me, it's in my sig.

My pm box is next to overflowing now.

Thanks -


b

My 57S500 would not power up. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it sounded like it was power cycling (no video or audio but you could hear the up/down 'click'). After another try, it started ok. Watched it for a couple days with normal operation, however, it would periodically power on by itself. It is now non-responsive.

Called the local Hitachi service place and the diagnostic costs (pickup/diagnostics/repair) are prohibitive so I don't want to follow that route - may as well buy a new TV at that point. I have a friend who used to repair TVs who has offered to help, but I'm looking to get some schematics so he can have something to work from to help me out. (He doesn't think he'll need them because he says most problems/boards are pretty similar - but I'd feel better). Can anyone point me to a place to get them? I called Hitachi and offered to buy them, but they wouldn't sell them to me.

Can anyone point to a schematic link or suggest help ideas?

Try www.servicemanuals.net. For around $16.99/download, I have gotten many manuals that are perfect, and some of them instantly!


b

Rob, here is a link to a pdf of the service manual - http://www.filedropper.com/hitachi51s700servicemanual

Matt

Thanks so much. This looks perfect!

Bigrig -

Awesome resource. Thanks!


;)


b

I inadvertantly connected the PSP (audio) connector to the PADJ (convergence?) connector on the deflection board. I now have the attached image on my HD channels and I'm not sure if this is a result of my error or more likely related to the original power up/down issue I am seeing. Std definition channels appear ok as long as the power is up.

I have had a 51S500 for about 6 years now and have been completely happy with my "ancient" CRT despite most of my friends going flat-screen happy. When I first bought it, I got a geometry grid from someone on this forum and I took the time to do geometry/convergence plus basic DVE color tweaking and it improved my set dramatically and enough for me to not consider pro calibration as I don't watch that much TV.

The grid, I remember at the time, was not exactly factory spec as it brought my overscan down to about 4.5% all around. I have since lost that grid and have not been able to find one like it. About 6 months ago I decided it was maybe time to due geometry/converge again but without that grid I have been forced to do to factory spec. I carefully measured it out and did geometry and thought I would just pull in slightly each line to get the smaller effect I had with the overlay before.

After that work, some time passed and I thought everything was ok until I noticed ESPN some scores were cut off on right side. It was missing last few letters of team names, etc. This in HD. I never had this problem before and I thought it was maybe the geometry job I did this time. So I redid it to factory spec exact as I could but scores/etc still cut off on right side.

I also noticed that DVD titles of movies would not fit my screen and getting cut off on both side of long full screen titles. I popped in my DVE disc and on the overscan screen I am getting about 5% overscan around with factory geometry. Here is a shot:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6427/img1404i.th.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img1404i.jpg/)



I also noticed that despite my meticulous effort to find center of screen that the DCAM geometry is centered perfect on my center but image underneath is slightly off. Here is a shot. Hard to see but the cross underneath on the DVE is ever so slightly up/left of center:

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/9986/img1405o.th.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/img1405o.jpg/)



My geometry appears pretty good in the grid and I have no squished tickers, etc. But I feel like I am losing a small portion of my broadcast and hence don't think my set is as sharp as it could/used to be. Despite the 5% overscan around, the right side suffers lost info as seen in this shot of CNN:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/8974/img1409v.th.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img1409v.jpg/)



The left side looks fine in that shot but here is a shot of DVE on the left. You will notice it missing the arrow on the menu.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/8845/img1407w.th.jpg (http://img195.imageshack.us/i/img1407w.jpg/)



I really want to reset my tv and do everything from scratch but there is no good step-step anywhere. Meaning do this first then do this in order. The service manual I have has those steps but they don't seem word friendly and are a little confusing, despite me being very technically inclined. And I really don't want to spend the $600 for a good professional calibration as I am not made of money.

Is there something maybe going bad on my set to which no calibration will fix? Or is it just in need of proper calibration that I apparently messed up this time but somehow got pretty good the first time I did it 6 years ago?

Everything you are saying points to overscan. If you were to redo it according to your original 4.5% template, I am sure you would not be having these problems.

Their internal grid is not totally easy to use, but CAN be used to reduce overscan accurately without speedbumps if your eyes are up for it. The key is getting whatever boxes that are the same size as each other to STAY the same size as each other, across the screen.

Some people need templates for this. I just eyeball it and the grid eventually gets symmetrical everywhere across the screen, with enough work from my eyeballs. And makes the DVE grids come in with a circle being a circle everywhere.

BTW, your DVE circles are ovals, as if you are using the original VE, which was SD, not HD. How's that happening?


b

Thanks for quick reply.

Everything you are saying points to overscan. If you were to redo it according to your original 4.5% template, I am sure you would not be having these problems.b

I have been thinking it is overscan as well but I don't recall my set having this chopped info out of the box. And you can see that overscan is currently just about factory spec being slightly over 5% around.

Also, you can see that overscan is close to same on both sides but how come right side chopping off weather but left is fine. Is this just because broadcast may be compensating because when I show the dvd image you can you see left side chopped off as well?

I would redo with my original grid if I hadn't got it thrown away (Ugh). I have the original autocad file for the original grid but can't be for sure I got it printed out correctly. I can't remember what the printing settings were. Something to do with autocad. I think I had it printed wrong this time because I am 99% certain when I was done with geometry with my first grid I was under 5% all around. Either this grid is wrong or something may be showing its age on my tv.

Even if I was to pull in overscan to 4.5 it doesn't appear it would be enough to bring in the full weather quotes and missing arrow of the dvd menu.



BTW, your DVE circles are ovals, as if you are using the original VE, which was SD, not HD. How's that happening?

b

You tell me...

I noticed this as well but brushed it off being DVE as I heard their reference materials aren't really upto par?


Wish you were coming to Vegas soon and I could afford you..

Your centering may be on while your horizontal linearity may be off. Are all the boxes in your grids EXACTLY the same width as each other?

The ovalness is suspect too. Are the HD ABC and CBS logos symmetrical on your screen - are they true circles? They are a good doublecheck to anyone's geometry setup.

I come to Vegas every January for CES and would love to do some work for you while there next year. Or as part of a vacation there.

Send me your contact info and I'll put it in my customer book flagged for your location should something come up that would bring me closeby.


b

Scott -

If you're really getting 5% overscan that would be great...I don't think you can go much lower without the edges starting to curl. But the oval circle makes me think it might be some kind of aspect ratio setting? Something's up.

Matt

I inadvertantly connected the PSP (audio) connector to the PADJ (convergence?) connector on the deflection board. I now have the attached image on my HD channels and I'm not sure if this is a result of my error or more likely related to the original power up/down issue I am seeing. Std definition channels appear ok as long as the power is up.

Your sync seems to be confused, looks like you have the top and bottom halves reversed on the HD only.

I would disco the entire set for at least a minute and plug it back in again. This will reset the micro. Hopefully that will act like a restart would on a computer.

These HD displays all involve computers inside these days, y'know. That's the only way they can handle the immense amount of info being processed per second that HD requires...


b

Originally Posted by Mr Bob
BTW, your DVE circles are ovals, as if you are using the original VE, which was SD, not HD. How's that happening?

b




You tell me...

I noticed this as well but brushed it off being DVE as I heard their reference materials aren't really upto par?




Not THAT badly off! The circle in the HD version of DVE is at least a recognizeably full circle, not an oval!

The only version that should not be used for geometry is the SD DVD VE version. The HD version is just fine for geometry. I find that it seems half a percent off on the vertical vs. the horizontal on the overscan grid, but that's insignificant compared to the huge amount of ovalness you are showing in your screenshots, which is VERY off.

If you are using the HD version of DVE, there's something definitely wrong with how you have things set up or how you did the geometry.


b

If you are using the HD version of DVE, there's something definitely wrong with how you have things set up or how you did the geometry.


b


Yes, I used the HD DVE. I will go recheck to see how bad it looks in real life. Possibly the photo is emphasizing the ovalness?

Anyway, I don't think it could be the geometry because here is a picture of it and it looks pretty darn uniform:

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/9287/img1406mtt.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/img1406mtt.jpg/)



Now I did get a tape measure out and measure the distance between each box and while they were off a 1mm or 2, I still don't feel that correcting them would overall match the size of what is getting cutoff. I could be wrong though as 1mm or 2 adjusted across the screen could be the problem. Could it? It does seem like as I measured outward from center in each direction the boxes were minutely getting larger to the point of last one being about 1.5mm larger than the inner boxes. Hmm, since I put it that way, it does seem like it is the geometry.

I am beginning to suspect the person I got to print this grid did it slightly off and it has carried over to the TV. Only problem is I don't accept factory spec from the manual as I want tight overscan but I don't think I am good enough to eyeball it as it will end up off by mm's still.

Is there a way to "reset" the geometry to factory default and then redue it or should I just fix it from here as it seems to be close anyway to being pretty good with 5% around?

Thanks very much

You say you used the HD DVE, yet the oval in your pix above says "720x480". That's NOT the HD DVD or BD version of DVE, which would say "1920x1080". It looks like the original SD VE version, whose geometry is not right and never has been, for 480i/p. If you're using the SD version of DVE, as your "720x480" might also indicate, your player settings may not be right.

Your grid DOES look very uniform. I think it's the pattern you're using and how you have your pattern hitting your screen that's causing the oval look to it.

The built-in grid is of course not very valuable for seeing why part of your pic is being cut off on your program material. Which I hope is true HD, and not upconverted but playing on an HD capable channel while not truly HD. To truly get the image right and not overscanned, you may need to use a broadcast true HD image to do so, if you don't have the proper pattern to use. That's what I always did before the HD version of DVE was available. And the ABC and CBS logo circles, for trueness in the geometry.

And that probably means something other than the image in your pix above, the newscast. They often add those side edges to NON HD newscasts, which are 4x3 native. If it is a true HD newcast, those sidebar info things are not usually there.


I know of no way to go back to factory spec on CRT RPTVs. They all seem to leave that behind as soon as you change anything. I don't know of any brand where the original factory specs are available to be summoned up again at some later time, after changes have been made to them. The changes become the new factory default, every time changed.

Keep in mind, they were designed to be changed ONLY by technicians, so keeping changes as the new factory default is only to be expected, really...

Nobody designs them to be easily changed by DIYers...

:D


b

Mr Bob - There is a Factory Reset option in the service menu.

Scott - If you check out the service manual I linked to a few posts up, there is a way to reset the geometry and start from scratch. (Pg 72) Also a way to adjust the horizontal centering. (Pg 68)

Matt

The Factory Reset wipes out ALL convergence corrections, making you start from TOTAL scratch. That's what Factory Reset means on these sets. Trying to get back to Factory Default, as he mentioned, means he's looking to get back to where the factory had set it up originally, which was what I was talking about.

Under the circs doing the Factory Reset is NOT what I would recommend, as it's really pretty darn close now. To have a Factory Default that would be the same thing his set came with OOB, they would have to tell the set to memorize a certain set of settings permanently, and make them unerasable. I don't think any of them do that.


b

You say you used the HD DVE, yet the oval in your pix above says "720x480". That's NOT the HD DVD or BD version of DVE, which would say "1920x1080". It looks like the original SD VE version, whose geometry is not right and never has been, for 480i/p. If you're using the SD version of DVE, as your "720x480" might also indicate, your player settings may not be right.

b

I stand corrected. I just assumed it being called "DIGITAL" Video Essentials that it was the HD version but I see no reference to HD on the cover. But wouldn't one need a HD DVD player for the HD DVE? That is why I don't have it as I only have 480p DVD player.

So you think it could be my DVD player and TV source material causing the discrepancies. I beleive my STB is upconverting the cable HD signal plus the TV itself adds some sort of "virtual" conversion that can't be disabled.

Interesting. Maybe I should take your advice and find a true HD signal that isn't messed with and fix any geometry issues with it.


EDIT: my STB was already set to "Pass-through" so back to square one in figuring out why I am missing info despite geometry looking pretty good and close to measurement. UGH!

But I am getting missing info on both DVD and broadcast HD. Didn't have this a few years ago. Is it possible this could be caused from when I cleaned the lenses/mirror? I did take each lens off seperately and thought I was careful putting back on. I honestly can't remember if this picture issue was happening before I did lens cleaning but I think it was.

Mr Bob - I agree there's not a factory reset for the geometry...but the service menu settings I believe are stored and available for recall.

Scott - Even if it's not HD it should still be widescreen. Make sure the TV aspect is set to 16:9 and your DVD player is set to output to a 16:9 display.

Hi everybody. Been reading a lot trying to see if I could correct my problem on my own but I've gotten as far as I can. I have a 5 year old Hit 57s500 that's gotten a bit fuzzy on lettering and I can see some shadowing on certain movements. Up to this point, it has never been touched and has an awesome picture. I followed the thread (and Bob's advise) about cleaning the guns and mirror. I also blacked out the frame area where the guns sit while I was in there and this made a big difference in the picture but my fuzzy issue is still there. Is this something I try to correct? I could take some pics and post them if it would help.

I was wondering if someone would be willing to share a copy of the service manual for my set. There's a link from bigrig but it doesn't work any more.

Thanks, Keith

Hey, Keith. I uploaded the file again, I guess it only stays on the website for a certain time period - http://www.filedropper.com/hitachi51s700servicemanual

Fuzziness might be convergence - you can go in and make sure all the guns are aligned. Or it could be focus - you can turn the lenses on top of the guns to adjust. I don't think that would just go bad spontaneously though.

Instructions for manual convergence are in the service manual, and this thread - http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273639

Additional Q&A for that thread - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=300466

Matt

Thanks so much for that Matt! I'll do some more reading and give it a shot. I'm a huge do-it-yourselfer but I do like to get an understanding of what I'm doing so all this information really helps. Thanks again and I'll post my results - if any. :)

Well, after having my 57s500 for nearly 6 years, I found myself considering a flat panel replacement.
But, after reading several threads here, I finally decided to check the lenses on the guns. Now I am one of those who has NEVER touched it since uncrating it.

This is what I found:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g154/TheOtherChris/DirtyLightGun.jpg

As you can see, it was long overdue.
Every year or two would be a good idea, but waiting 6 years is RIGHT OUT!
So, I got out the Windex and paper towels and carefully followed the instructions Mr. Bob and others had laid out (float the dust and don't rub).
The result was dramatic....like having a new unit!
I see NO reason to replace this fine monitor for some time to come.

While in there, I noticed a lot of grey metal and unfinished wood that I will deal with next.

Hey Chris, looks like you and I were sort of in the same boat. I ended up getting an Avia disc and digging into the settings. All I can say is WOW! I did manage to get the fuzziness out that I had posted about before. I still want to do some more as I think it can be better but I can't get alone time with the set long enough to do it! My wife loves the new, clear look it has and has been keeping it busy.

Thanks again to bigrig for the links and manual. I've learned a lot more about my set and how to keep it looking great. :)

Although I sold mine, its still going strong. I was slick1ru2 in the earlier posts.

I have a 51S700 that I was having a few issues with, one being a yellow haze in the corners, and in sort of a line down the middle and across the screen (in various other areas of the screen as well).

I had a tech come out and after cleaning the mirror and the lenses and it still didn't go away he said it was probably burn in (so it was not covered under warranty). It's been there a while, but it seems to be getting a little worse. It's really annoying because it really changes the color of anything that is light colored in the area.

Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what it is? I'd like to get more information if possible before my warranty runs out, which is very soon.

I have always watched my content stretched (no side bars needed) and don't watch too much of anything with tickers if that matters.

Thanks.

Hi Bob long time no type... I been busy the last two years with photography, I bought me a couple of DSLR's and been learning how to take pictures.
Anyway I finally got my 57T500 calibrated and I hadn't noticed how much the picture needed it till it was finished. The guys had to drive a 100 miles (one way) and worked on it for over 3 hours and only charged me 300 dollars including gas.
I just wanted to thank you for telling people to have it done to improve the picture and life of your set.
I waited over a year for the TV to be broke in properly.
I have one quick other question:
I just picked up a 32" Hitachi 720p LCD HDTV for my spare bedroom. I also have a D* HD DVR HR20-700 connected to it. I noticed that the only way the picture will fill the screen, even on some HD programs is to choose zoom 2 option and then some of the picture dosen't show. It's like the picture is too big for the screen.
I know the HD DVR has different Format settings as does the HDTV, Is there a way to set it up properly? Or is it that it's a 720p set and not a 1080i.?

1080i vs. 720p should not be an issue here, if it's an LCD. You gotta play with it and call whoever you call as your content provider; either them or the manufacturer of your TV should be able to answer that question.

Otherwise you gotta hope someone who owns one or has worked on one will know. Sometimes even they gotta make that call, tho.

I would. I haven't worked one of those before -


b

I stand corrected. I just assumed it being called "DIGITAL" Video Essentials that it was the HD version but I see no reference to HD on the cover. But wouldn't one need a HD DVD player for the HD DVE? That is why I don't have it as I only have 480p DVD player.

"Digital" has nothing to do with whether something is of a particular scanrate.
DVE exists in both SD and HD versions.


So you think it could be my DVD player and TV source material causing the discrepancies. I beleive my STB is upconverting the cable HD signal plus the TV itself adds some sort of "virtual" conversion that can't be disabled.

Interesting. Maybe I should take your advice and find a true HD signal that isn't messed with and fix any geometry issues with it.

A bluray player would be best, with the HD version of DVE.


EDIT: my STB was already set to "Pass-through" so back to square one in figuring out why I am missing info despite geometry looking pretty good and close to measurement. UGH!

But I am getting missing info on both DVD and broadcast HD. Didn't have this a few years ago. Is it possible this could be caused from when I cleaned the lenses/mirror? I did take each lens off seperately and thought I was careful putting back on. I honestly can't remember if this picture issue was happening before I did lens cleaning but I think it was.

Removing and re-installing the lenses will not affect this. Most that would happen is that the crosshairs would need realignment afterwards, which is universally true.

Your HV - high voltage - may have diminished over the years in which case the hor and vert sweeps would be pulling the image apart more than normal. It's always a balancing act between the HV pulling the electrons towards the screen with a certain amount of force vs. the h and v sweeps tugging that same set of beams up and down and side to side as they draw each image, VERY fast...




b

Hey Chris, looks like you and I were sort of in the same boat. I ended up getting an Avia disc and digging into the settings. All I can say is WOW! I did manage to get the fuzziness out that I had posted about before. I still want to do some more as I think it can be better but I can't get alone time with the set long enough to do it! My wife loves the new, clear look it has and has been keeping it busy.

Thanks again to bigrig for the links and manual. I've learned a lot more about my set and how to keep it looking great. :)

Just thought I'd share some shots from a cal I did recently, on a set much that I believe is much older than yours. It is a Pioneer Elite 720, which I calibrated in Seattle a couple of weeks ago. It looked pretty bad when I started.

No reason your Hitachis here can't look every bit as good as this, when fully supertweaked. Owen in Australia has sent in a pic -Colleen - that knocks my socks off every time I see it, from his fully supertweaked 57" Hit.


b


http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8245/seattleportlandtripfort.jpg

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8245/seattleportlandtripfort.jpg

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/8245/seattleportlandtripfort.jpg

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8245/seattleportlandtripfort.jpg

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/3343/seattleportlandtripfortt.jpg

I have a 51S700 that I was having a few issues with, one being a yellow haze in the corners, and in sort of a line down the middle and across the screen (in various other areas of the screen as well).

I had a tech come out and after cleaning the mirror and the lenses and it still didn't go away he said it was probably burn in (so it was not covered under warranty). It's been there a while, but it seems to be getting a little worse. It's really annoying because it really changes the color of anything that is light colored in the area.

Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what it is? I'd like to get more information if possible before my warranty runs out, which is very soon.

I have always watched my content stretched (no side bars needed) and don't watch too much of anything with tickers if that matters.

Thanks.

A yellow haze in the corners indicates impediments in the blue gun in the same corners. Remove your viewscreen and look directly into the lens, on primarily white video out at the corners.

Also shut the set off and take a strong flashlight in there, and again look straight into the lenses, shooting the light in along with your eyes. If there's cooties in the coolant, that should show it up, one way or the other.


b

A yellow haze in the corners indicates impediments in the blue gun in the same corners. Remove your viewscreen and look directly into the lens, on primarily white video out at the corners.

Also shut the set off and take a strong flashlight in there, and again look straight into the lenses, shooting the light in along with your eyes. If there's cooties in the coolant, that should show it up, one way or the other.


b

Thank you for the advice! If there are other yellow clouds in the main viewing area then, does that mean this is NOT burn in? Would a replacement of the blue gun most likely fix this?

nice thread just read almost the whole thing before i registered. Someone is giving me a 51S500 thats in very good condition, only problem is i have to transport it 50 miles. Any tips? i read the split procedure for the 57S500, is it pretty much the same for the 51? what do i need to be careful of when transporting, as far as bumps/

I don't think the 51" splits, only the 57 and 65.

Matt

I don't think the 51" splits, only the 57 and 65.

Matt

oh man thats not good..can anyone confirm this?

Thank you for the advice! If there are other yellow clouds in the main viewing area then, does that mean this is NOT burn in? Would a replacement of the blue gun most likely fix this?

If there have been no all blue clouds to cause screenburn in those areas, then it won't be screenburn. What you are describing sounds ONLY like cooties in the coolant. Take a flashlight in there and see.

Some brands allow for the coolant to be changed out, restoring completely normal ops after that, others - like Mit - insist on swapping out the entire CRT instead, requiring complete setup - calibration - of that gun afterwards.


b

oh man thats not good..can anyone confirm this?
I checked the service manual and it shows the procedure only for the 57 and 65.

Yeah, only the bigger sets come apart, of any brand.

Put it on top of half a dozen unbuilt Uhaul boxes, which use triple corrugated cardboard, to protect against the road shock. Be careful on the ramp if it's the kind with knurls. Put smooth boarding down first.

I moved my 65" Panny 3/4 of a mile and up 2 steps and over a threshold very carefully and it didn't even need redoing of the crosshairs, much less the dynamic conv.

Keep it SMOOTH!

;)

b

I have a 6 year old 51s500. This issue started about a month ago but thankfully, does not seem to be getting any worse. Does anyone out there know what could be the problem?

Well, I read through most of this thread (and others) trying to find out if anyone has had a similar issue with their Hitachi as the picture showed in my previous post. No luck but I have been very impressed with the all the different topics covered. And I figured if nothing else, I could go in and clean the mirror and lenses. It took about three hours but I was very careful and took my time with each and every part. The next time it should only take about an hour. Kudos to everyone out there who supplied tips and photos of their adventures. By the way, Mr. Bob is now a hero of mine.
Here is a before picture:152334
I was only going to do the top lens but then I saw this smudge (bottom left) which was on the bottom lens on the blue housing. It might have been a finger print (during manufacuring?) but with a little more effort the Sprayway and papertowels clean it off. 152335
I used the techniques that Mr Bob had described in previous threads and it worked like a charm. It took a little time but I was very careful.
Here's a couple of after pictures152337
I did try to black out the interior shiny surfaces with a sharpie and black felt.152338
I picked up the DVE HD disc last night and if my shift isn't to bad tonight I'm going to try some basic calibrating tomorrow. I don't know how much the the DVE disc will help because of my previous stated screen problem but we'll see. Again, thanks to everyone who contributed to a very positive experience.

Nice! Glad you found my info helpful.

(Owners, I am available for phone coaching if you own a CRT RPTV and want to be sure to to get it right without locating and reading all the posts you'd need to read, to be sure. This applies to all facets of the calibration process that can be handled by you at your end, with the right coaching. I don't support just any advice on these issues, and have been misquoted many times on the net, so if you don't want to take any chances on the info you find, contact me directly, not by pm please.)

Now that you KNOW what your set's been hiding from you for years and is now really ready for - and capable of again, now that you have a crystal clear light path again, giving your set that "new" look all over again, with all the depth and punch that's there now and that it's been incapable of delivering to you for years - you might want to tap my brain for the finer points of getting a dazzling picture.

Have you looked down inside now to the deeper lenses? Only 2 surfaces per color are important to do, and only if needed - the bottom of each lens barrel and the CRT coolant covers. I call that the deeper optics cleaning. If you find you need that, it covers 6 additional lens surfaces of the 10 total - of which you've done 4 now - and if needed makes even more of a difference in your picture than what you have done so far.

Do them 1 color at a time before you move on to the next if you find they need it, so you can't get them mixed up. Each lens barrel has its own focus setting, tightened with the wingnut. Each lens barrel is dedicated to its own color. Do NOT allow them to get mixed up.

No need to clean the inner lenses inside the barrel, of which there are usually 4 total per barrel. Individual particulates are out of focus at that part of the light path and as such are inconsequential; only a blanketing of dust ever needs to be gotten rid of, and I've never seen this on the inner lenses.

Great job and great pix!

:cool:

b

crauen just wrote a great review on my work on his Hitachi CRT in Chico. It's post #5889 at

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17160958#post17160958

Mr Bob

Can I hook a BluRay DVD player to my 57T500 HDTV? If so where? all I have is DVI and a Componet connection.

Yes, you hook the sound up to the TV using the DVI left and right inputs via RCA cables. You use a DVI male to male cable just like you normally would for older players. Then you use this to connect it to the TV DVI input: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-P132-000-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B000BTGVV2/ref=cm_cr-mr-title You most likely need to go through the menu of the player to make sure it has sound going to through the RCA component connect. I would recommend a PS3, at $299 it plays everything and updates firmware automatically when connected to the web. It also has a web browser and you can rent and own movies through the Playstation Store. If you don't get one, I would recommend a network Blu Ray, I think LG makes one and if you have Netflix you can stream almost HD quality movies through it.

Connect video to tv with an hdmi to dvi cable. Connect audio to your surround reciever via toslink. Worked great on my 57s500.

Ok so I can run the sound through the Denon AVR and use the converter for the video. I just have to unplug my Sat. box everytime I want to watch a Bluray disk. Thanks

or connect sat box via component

or connect sat box via component


Right, or I had one of the DVI switches when I had surround so I would switch the DVI and the surround input. But those DVI switches are expensive ($100 to over $200) and you are talking about another remote. They have DVI to HDMI cables too on Amazon, but the one I put on here works with the type of DVI the TV has because that's the one I used. There is more then one type of DVI connection.

Yes, you hook the sound up to the TV using the DVI left and right inputs via RCA cables.

No, DVI does not contain the sound, like HDMI does.


b

No, DVI does not contain the sound, like HDMI does.


b

I mean, in the input section of the TV, if you are using the TV for sound, you use the component RCA Lt and RT out from the DVD player to the RCA Lt and Rt inputs for the DVI input area vs the component or RCA input area on the back of the TV.

Gotcha. Makes a lot more sense now -


b