marc got another ? for ya i know the hsta and vsta items let you move the image left to right or up and down but how do i get my overscan to a reasonable level... in 480p my overscan at the top of the screen and bottom is 5% but on the sides its like 6%.... and in 1080i its about the same.. i got my service manual in the mail and have tweaked it out so far got rid of the speed bumps by correcting the green grid in Fine but again would like to get overscan to about 3% on top and bottom.... is there another item in the service menu that brings the image back from the top and bottom and side to side to get back the portion of the image that is being cropped out...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3060924#post3060924

ohh yeah forgot about that first part sorry now i feel stupid but just did 480p and cant believe how much of the image was cut off thanks again...

I know I have come across the answer to this question before, but I just cannot find it again.

I have a new 55613 and sometimes when I go from a 480i channel to a 1080i channel, I get a message at the bottom of the screen saying that something may be wrong with my RGB or YPbPr connection. The picture seems to look fine though. Is this a problem or just an idiosyncrosy of the set?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Originally posted by cheathamcc
I know I have come across the answer to this question before, but I just cannot find it again.

I have a new 55613 and sometimes when I go from a 480i channel to a 1080i channel, I get a message at the bottom of the screen saying that something may be wrong with my RGB or YPbPr connection. The picture seems to look fine though. Is this a problem or just an idiosyncrosy of the set?

Thanks in advance for the help.

I get that too once in awhile, never paid much attention to exactly when it happens but it's off the screen in about 30 secs and nothing appears to be wrong. Using a 55813.

I'm curious as well..

Jim

I'm not positive, it used to happen on my mits when I was first was making connections in the beginning. If I can remember I think I had certain inputs checked for use in the netcommand menu. Perhaps dvi and a extra component input, when actually I had only one component input in use from my reciever to the mits. Not sure if this is the reason, all I did was make sure my netcommand icons and inputs are matching, it hasn't happened since my gear has been hooked up and running.

You are probably using the dtv input for your tuner. Page 43 in manual will tell you that you have a connection choice rgb or ypbpr. I can remember now, I temporarly was using the dtv input on the mits for my componenet connection. Maybe I didn't finish the setup process for that input ehre you choose rgb or ypbpr. Anyway when I went with component input I made the change in netcommand that I was not using dtv and instead component input.

Originally posted by keenan
I get that too once in awhile, never paid much attention to exactly when it happens but it's off the screen in about 30 secs and nothing appears to be wrong. Using a 55813.

I'm curious as well..

Jim

Just had this happen tonight. Using xbox on input-dtv, set up as a component input in net command, and got the error when I put in a game that used a different res.

Also, I had to add my input again tonihgt. I set it up and played the other night, but it was gone tonight, I had to add it again. Maybe because I powered the set on while the xbox was off? Odd thing is, before setting up the xbox on this input, Input-DTV was always available as a choice, even though nothing was attached to it.

mits 65813.

tia, jb

i have directv attched to that input using component and occasionally get that remark.
it goes away after a minute or so.

Thanks for the replies. It seems that it might just be a meaningless annoyance. I also am using component connections into the Input-DTV connection and the message does go away after a minute or so. And sometimes (even for days) the message will not appear at all. And, like I said, the picture seems fine so I don't really think there is an actual problem.

I am new here but I was having the same problem when I switched from the DVD player to the HD cable box on my Yamaha RX-V1400 or when I went from a high def channel to a regular one on the cable box. I have both the DVD and the cable box running into the receiver (via component jacks) and then I was running monitor out of the receiver to the DTV input on the TV. I just changed it and ran the monitor out to the Component 1 input on the Mits. That solved the problem.

I need to correct the over scan for my WS 65615.
I saw this post.
OVERSCAN

MENU-0357
Scroll modes - AUDIO
Scroll items - VIDEO
Save - ENTER
Cancel - Cancel
Exit - Menu

MODE - Def Jungle
Horizontal Width - HWID
Vertical Height - VHGT

MENU-0359 for geometry SM

Misc - 6
Coarse - 5
Fine - 4

Color (RGB) - AUDIO
Item Scroll - VIDEO
Cancel- CANCEL
Save and Exit - MENU

But when I press Menu 0357. I get nothing. Am I missing something to get into the service menu?

Thanks for the help as always.

I'm going to adjust my overscan on my 55413 (in service since 4/1/2004), but I'm interested in knowing what source you guys are using when adjusting this? How do you know you are at 5% or 3%?

I want to make sure the overscan is the same in both directions so the aspect ratio stays correct.

I have Avia and the HDNet Test Pattern saved on my HD TiVo (although I understand there's some flaw with this pattern, though I don't know what that flaw is).

Another thing I'd like to work on is focus. I seem to lose focus in the lower right corner. Also, if I adjust the overscan, and expose the bottom edge, it's not a straight line. It bends upwards significantly on the right side.

Thanks,

Craig

Anyone on how to get into the service menu on a WS65615?

Originally posted by Toeside
I have Avia and the HDNet Test Pattern saved on my HD TiVo (although I understand there's some flaw with this pattern, though I don't know what that flaw is). http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4754371#post4754371

Marc Alexander,

Being you seem to be very well versed in Mitsubishi TVs so I have a question.

I have a WS55813 and I am curious if this display is fed a 72Hz signal will it accept it. The reason I ask is I have been looking at the iScan HD+ to use in conjunction with a Denon 5900 with a SDI-mod and it appears that the iScan can send out a 72Hz without judder signal with a 3-3 frame sequence to produce an exceptionally smooth picture.

My impetus for the question comes from the Feb issue of WSR where they do a review of the iScan HD+. The author mentions CRT projectors and CRT multi-scan direct-view sets as being possibly capable of doing this but he doesn't say anything about RPTVs.

Thanks

Originally posted by keenan
I have a WS55813 and I am curious if this display is fed a 72Hz signal will it accept it. No, ~ 59.97 Hz only.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
No, ~ 59.97 Hz only.

Thanks. Bummer. :p

ugh! I want to shoot myself. I was all careful, washing the my screen with the inside of a wool sock in gentle circular motions - and I think I removed the tint in one section. It's small and out of the way but of corse it's all I see now.

I guess I can remove the protective shield but anyone have any tips for repair. ANy kind of wipe on tint I can reapply?

jb

You know, I haven't cleaned my shield since I got the set, less than a year. What is the proper/best method for cleaning the thing?

This comes from the User's Manual (which most people don't bother to read)From Mitsubishi's documentation

CleaningNormally, light dusting with a dry, non-scratching duster will keep your TV clean. If cleaning beyond this is needed, please use the following guidelines:

First, turn off the TV and unplug the power cord from the power outlet.

Top and Sides of the TV:
• Gently wipe down your TV with a soft, non-abrasive cloth such as cotton flannel or a clean cloth diaper, lightly moistened with water. Dry with a second dry, soft, non-abrasive cloth.
• For oily dirt, add a few drops of mild liquid detergent, such as dishwashing detergent to the water used to moisten the cloth. Rinse with a second cloth moistened only with water. Dry with a third dry, soft, non-abrasive cloth.

Diamond Shield™:
• Clean with a soft non-abrasive cloth moistened with water only.

Screen behind the Diamond Shield:
• Follow the instructions for the top and sides, however, wipe gently in an up and down motion, following the grooves in the screen.
• Clean the entire screen evenly, not just sections of the screen.
• Do not allow liquid to drip down the grooves of the screen as some liquid may enter the TV between the screen and the screen frame.
• You may purchase Mitsubishi Screen Cleaner, part number CLEANER-VSS, by calling (800) 553-7278.Wool is abrasive AFAIK

Most of the links from the beginning of this thread are archived. Is there any other source for this info? Thanks!

Please Note: It may be an ARCHIVED thread or post you are looking for so the url needs to begin with "archive" or "archive2" and not "www". (Example.... archive.avsforum.com).

Note: For threads prior to 2004, use "archive", for threads from 1/1/04 - 6/30/04 use "archive2". Please feel free to give one of those a try by changeing it in the URL above in your browser address bar.

I agree that wool would seem to be abrasive. The Mits cleaner part they mention, is that some cloth or a liquid? I think I am going to use a lint-free cloth like the kind used for cleaning eye-glasses and water.

Marc Alexander

Remove the protective screen (they don't call it a "picture enhancer screen" for a reason) if you don't need the protection. You'll be pleasantly surprised. No more reflections for one.

In my experience, do not use any liquid on the lenticular screen, only a dry cloth.

Originally posted by Bill
Marc Alexander

Remove the protective screen (they don't call it a "picture enhancer screen" for a reason) if you don't need the protection. You'll be pleasantly surprised. No more reflections for one.

In my experience, do not use any liquid on the lenticular screen, only a dry cloth.

This is something I have considered as well, removing the Diamond Shield. I have a little bit higher than normal dusty environment, not much more, but it is of some concern. The remaining screen should be cleaned with a dry cloth only in this scenario or a damp cloth? I ask these questions for when/if I remove the shield for good I want to know the proper way to keep the screen clean.

Thanks, all who answer.

For dust, use a duster. One of those with the thousands of hairs coming out of the central wand. No damp cloths!

Originally posted by Bill
For dust, use a duster. One of those with the thousands of hairs coming out of the central wand. No damp cloths!

I'm not visualizing which one you mean.. :confused:

Originally posted by Bill
Marc Alexander

Remove the protective screen (they don't call it a "picture enhancer screen" for a reason) if you don't need the protection. You'll be pleasantly surprised. No more reflections for one. Uhm...thanks. I've been removing my "glare" screens for 5 years now. :cool: But, I guess that you haven't read this thread. No offense taken.
Originally posted by Bill
For dust, use a duster. One of those with the thousands of hairs coming out of the central wand. No damp cloths! Yes, I use the dusting wand for dust. Use a damp cloth only when necessary (on either screen). Sometimes the damp cloth is necessary as bugs can leave "residue" on the screen.

I've never used any "cleaner" product. If you have to use a cleaner, buy from Mits (or I think Monster sells a product too)...they are liquids.

You guys have a pic of the dusting wand you are talking about? The only thing that comes to my mind is one of those feather dusters, and I don't think that would be a good choice.

RE: Bugs. I had a spider wandering around between the 2 screens for about a day before he left one time...:p

My first, and last, experience with a damp cloth caused some of the black on the lenticular stripes to come off (not my present set). It really shows when this happens

Now I have a question, I have slight overscan (a little more than I'd like) on the top and bottom. The picture is dead on with convergence and geometry. Should I bother going into the service menu and reducing it a little? Will I have to redo everything?

Convergence and Geometry will require touch up after reducing overscan. How much of a change in overscan % are we talking about?

Probably 2%. It doesn't sound worth bothering with. Anybody else flabbergasted by the Qualia frenzy going on here? :p

Extended my viewing room 6' and now I'm looking at new displays. Any pros or cons on the WS-73615 Mits RPTV?

Been actually looking at a front projector setup, but the convenience of of TV has it's merits. Plus, with a front projector, most likely a DLP or LCD, I will lose the CRT quality image. My WS-55813 is just looking a little small now..

Thanks for any input. :)

Originally posted by Bill
Probably 2%. It doesn't sound worth bothering with. Anybody else flabbergasted by the Qualia frenzy going on here? :p


Not flabbergasted since only about 5 people own one.

Marc et al, is there a Mitsubishi CRT RPTV specialist ISF tech I could get in in the California area? I've got issue with overscan that I'd like to get cleared up as well on my recently purchased WS 65813.

From what I've heard, I've been reluctant to go in to the service menu myself so far. But, I'm starting to consider it. I figured, though, a good Mitsu guy would be able to add value across the board at this point. I bought it new on Oct 2, so it's probably got at least 250 hrs on it, perhaps more like 350 to 400, which seems about right for a calibration.

So, questions are, can you recommend a couple of names, and what is your general advice on how difficult (or not) the service menu is to navigate?

I just had my 65815 ISF'ed and though he did the best he could, Mits. left a lot on the table. It appears that they have cheaper lenses which makes edge to edge focus tougher. Mine also had a high degree of overscan which was easily corrected (on the order of 7%). The part that perturbs me the most is the fact that it cuts off high frequencies in 1080i. What is the point in having 9" guns to resolve all the detail if the detail never makes it to the tubes!!

For comparison the set the Mits. replaced was a Sony XBR300. I also have a NEC XG85 in my main theater. The NEC on a 7' screen looks way better than the 65" Mits. As an example if you watch the Tonight Show with Jay Leno one of the buildings in back says ONE WILSHIRE BLVD. on it which is easily resolved on the NEC, with the Mits it almost looks like more windows on the building. I've no doubt that if there wasn't this frequency limitation the Mits. would truly be a great TV.

I know you may want to blame it on the ISFer, maybe he wasn't experienced on the chassis, he was in a hurry, on and on. The person who did it is a well respected forum contributer and has set up all my TV's, and someone I consider a friend. We hooked up his signal generator and viola no high frequency's. It didn't matter with videonoise set to normal or reduction. Also we tried component and HDMI with no difference.

I still think the television puts out a good picture, just not what it had the potential for.

Norm

Good review Norm. I assume the tech focused the lenses mechanically and electrically? It's unfortunate that Mits seems to be cutting corners these days.

Steve, the best Mits guy in your area is CraigM (he is a bit expensive though...but well worth it). It looks like his website is down at the moment.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
IThe best Mits calibrators IMO:

CraigM - not ISF trained but likely the best Mits guy on the planet (he takes the time to achieve perfection on every set he touches)
http://www.mghometheater.com

www.lionav.com guys:
Gregg Loewen
Steve Martin (Cheezmo)
Chuck Williams

did a quick search but didnt see this anywere.
mits 73713
i have the blinking green light, but not the reboot trouble.
it only blinks when i turn off the tv.
it is a slower blink then the reboot version.

it might be my imagination but the picture seems to be darker then what it should be, recently.

dont know if it is connected or not.
but that is why i'm concerned.
if the tv is darker and it is blinking the little green light, something is probably about to get worse.

any ideas?

Yes Marc we did both mechanical and electrical focus. If I remember correctly one of the tubes (I believe the blue one) was not able to be mechanically focused, it was in a fixed position. I can possibly understand them cutting costs on the lenses, but I see no reason to not pass the high frequencies through in high-def. After all the details are in the high freqs.

Whotony I'm not familiar with your problem.

Norm

FYI after calibration the tv puts out about 12 ftl.

Originally posted by whotony
did a quick search but didnt see this anywere.
mits 73713
i have the blinking green light, but not the reboot trouble.
it only blinks when i turn off the tv.
it is a slower blink then the reboot version.

it might be my imagination but the picture seems to be darker then what it should be, recently.

dont know if it is connected or not.
but that is why i'm concerned.
if the tv is darker and it is blinking the little green light, something is probably about to get worse.

any ideas?

well it may be darker, it is due for a cali touch up.
but the blinking is from the auto timer being turned on in one of the service menus.
i guess i did that while i was setting the perfect color settings.

Originally posted by whotony
well it may be darker, it is due for a cali touch up.
but the blinking is from the auto timer being turned on in one of the service menus.
i guess i did that while i was setting the perfect color settings.

I need step by step instructions on how to remove the Diamond Shield from the Mits 55813 because the manual is of very little help. The Diamond shield feel like it was sealed on to the TV.

Originally posted by Auditor55
I need step by step instructions on how to remove the Diamond Shield from the Mits 55813 because the manual is of very little help. The Diamond shield feel like it was sealed on to the TV.

This is from the Service Manual,

The first time you remove it the clips will be a bit stubborn to come out. Using a spatula or credit card to pry the corner loose always works for me on a new set.

Marc,

That website you gave me a few posts up for CraigM is completely nonfunctional (it's not owned by anyone - available for purchase). Is there another way to contact this person?

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
The first time you remove it the clips will be a bit stubborn to come out. Using a spatula or credit card to pry the corner loose always works for me on a new set.

I tried a phone card and it broke into pieces. I can't seem to find spot where I can pry it open.

Same here, and if you are like me you are being very careful not to screw up your set. Keep it up!

Suggest you find something wide and plastic, like a spatula or a putty knife, and stick a soft cloth between it and your screen. This will give you better leverage than the card. All you need to do is get a good grip and pull straight out towards yourself. Once you get it moving, you will see how easy it is.

Always start in a corner

Originally posted by Steve_in_L.A.
Marc,

That website you gave me a few posts up for CraigM is completely nonfunctional (it's not owned by anyone - available for purchase). Is there another way to contact this person? I'm both happy and sad to report that CraigM has retired. Craig and Sue have a new grandchild and will no longer be doing calibration tours.

Congratulations Craig and Sue!:D

I have searched through many threads here but never found a definitive answer on a question about 73615.

Does this set upconvert all inputs to 1080i? For instance, if fed a 480p signal will it automatically scale it to 1080i? I've read that this is something the current sets do, which is different from previous ones, like my 55813 for example.

For what I can get for my 55813 I can purchase a new 73615 so I'm trying to find what if any drawbacks there would be to such a move.

Thanks

55" to 73"
That's a huge Pro. I do believe that these newer sets upconvert to 1080i, but I doubt that the PQ suffers much. I would make that trade in a heartbeat.

Originally posted by keenan
I have searched through many threads here but never found a definitive answer on a question about 73615.

Does this set upconvert all inputs to 1080i? For instance, if fed a 480p signal will it automatically scale it to 1080i? I've read that this is something the current sets do, which is different from previous ones, like my 55813 for example. From what I have gathered, the new sets upconvert 480i to 1080i...but 480p is displayed natively (bypassing the AMVP2).

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
From what I have gathered, the new sets upconvert 480i to 1080i...but 480p is displayed natively (bypassing the AMVP2).

Okay, that's good to know. Any other drawbacks in going with the 73615 that you might be able to alert me to?

My understanding is the 73 is the same chassis as the Diamond 65" so I'm guessing the performance would be close to or on par with that unit, just a little larger screen.

Thanks.

Originally posted by Steve_in_L.A.
Marc et al, is there a Mitsubishi CRT RPTV specialist ISF tech I could get in in the California area? I've got issue with overscan that I'd like to get cleared up as well on my recently purchased WS 65813.

From what I've heard, I've been reluctant to go in to the service menu myself so far. But, I'm starting to consider it. I figured, though, a good Mitsu guy would be able to add value across the board at this point. I bought it new on Oct 2, so it's probably got at least 250 hrs on it, perhaps more like 350 to 400, which seems about right for a calibration.

So, questions are, can you recommend a couple of names, and what is your general advice on how difficult (or not) the service menu is to navigate?

Steve, you have a PM

Marc,

I am sorry if I am asking a question in the wrong thread, but I have searched around, to try and find the best thread to ask this question.

I have completed my research, thought of all technologies, and even created a thread "RPTV - cut to the chase" to get as much help from others as I could, and I have decided to purchase the Mits 55615.

I know it will not receive 720P directly...so what are the main HD channels (Fox, NBC, ESPN, etc.) sending their signal in? And if it is 720P...what do I do? I was concerned about AC-3 Dolby Digital, but it looks like it will play this (I am a big MPEG2 Free-to-air Satellite guy)...so the HD signal is my last concern. Some kind of external converting device? Help me out...would appreciate it.

Lastly, once I get it...should I return here for technical help with calibration...or is there a better thread?

MrSuzuki,

The Mits xxx15 series are unable to take a 720p signals in any of their inputs, however, they are able to accept and play a 720p signal coming through the OTA receiver. It converts the signal internally from 720p to 1080i. They would have to do that because it is one of the ATSC signals that have to be supported by all the manufactureres.

Hope this helps.

Originally posted by MrSuzuki
I know it will not receive 720P directly

I think the only time this becomes a problem is when you want to play 720P X-Box games.

Originally posted by MrSuzuki
Marc,


Lastly, once I get it...should I return here for technical help with calibration...or is there a better thread?

I have the 55615 and it rocks as far as I am concerned. There is an extensive tweak section on Mits TVs at the Home Theatre Spot site, but you have to pay $25 to become a forum member to access them. Craig Rounds, who is a professional calibrator, frequents the Mits forum over there and specializes in the Mits CRTs. Other than that , you can get some free tips/tweaks here that will help start you in the right direction. The main service menu codes for the 55615 are "MENU 2457" and 2459

Hi folks,

I have a 65813 that is about a month old. I adjusted the basic settings using the Avia disc. The picture is beautiful. Even the SD is very nice.

I was browsing through the advanced settings on the disc and when I was in the geometry and convergence section, I noticed something that is a little disturbing. The geometry pages have patterns based on aspect ratios. When I view the 1.78:1 pattern, it is close to the edges of the screen, but far from the edges of the screen on the top and bottom (inches), even though this ratio is the same as the screen.

Should the corners on this pattern be on the corners of the screen, for this ratio?

I see mention of the service menus. But, after searching several times, I don't see how to access them.

I also see people talking about a service manual, but can not find how to get one.

One more thing. Does anyone have a name or two of ISF calibrators who work on Long Island, NY?

Thanks, Joe

I just re-did me convergence using a pair of binoculars. What a difference that make!! You sit as far back as you can. At look at the convergence patterns with the binoculars. You can see a lot more detail.

Someone post list on a thread a week ago.

Hello all 2004 Mitsu owners. I bought my Mitsu Silver Plus WS-55413 back in early July. Up until now I've been really happy with it and I think that the picture looks fantastic, especially in HD or watching DVDs.

But now I found my first major problem and it is causing me headaches. I think I have read about this occuring on some rear projection HDTVs, but I can't seem to find the techincal term or anything on here about it. It is a line in the middle of my screen. It's not something that is there ALL the time, but shows up, mainly when there is something the color RED on the screen - although I have noticed it once in a while without the red color. Funny thing is that it NEVER happens when the broadcast is on a High-Defenition channel. When I am watching a HD channel, there is nothing - no line, not anything... pictures looks great. It seems to JUST occur in non-HD cable channels.

Please help with some info on this. I hope this is something that can be fixed or configured to take this away. I already have configured, color converged and even used the AVIA setup to help get the most quality out of my HDTV... I also have lowed the brightness, contrast, etc on the set from Day 1. This "red line" problem bothers the hell out of me and it would really be sad if after spending over $2,000 on this set, I have a situation that can't be repaired. PLEASE HELP!!!

Thanks.

Dallas22

CountryJoe - AVIA is authored completly in non-anamorphic 4x3. The aspect ratio patterns are intended to show wide ratios on 4x3 sets. They are not valid for your 16x9 set unless you use the zoom mode on your TV.

Dallas - pics?

Dallas22,

Pics would really be helpful, but even without those a bit more information on exactly WHAT you are seeing. The line - is it horizontal, vertical, wavy, steady, fat, thin, black, white, etc... Also, are you watching SD via a cable box (which one) or OTA, and what type of cables are you using?

Go Redskins!

Is there a quick and simple way to find these threads? These links and more fron the beginning of this thread have been archived and I have not been able to track them down.



Originally posted by Marc Alexander
WIP
I'll start this off with a few links, will add more when I get more time.

SM codes
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=221163

SVM
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=306848&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

Originally posted by keenan
Is there a quick and simple way to find these threads? These links and more fron the beginning of this thread have been archived and I have not been able to track them down.

replace www with archive and voila!

Thanks, I tried that earlier, must have not done it right.

Please Note: It may be an ARCHIVED thread or post you are looking for so the url needs to begin with "archive" or "archive2" and not "www". (Example.... archive.avsforum.com).

Note: For threads prior to 2004, use "archive", for threads from 1/1/04 - 6/30/04 use "archive2". Please feel free to give one of those a try by changeing it in the URL above in your browser address bar.

Sorry about not be more specific... The line is Verticle and more on the upper portion in the middle of the screen. It usually shows up more often when there is red in that area. The line is not very thick at all - probably around 1/2" inch. I will try to take some digital photos of it and upload in the future. It only occurs on SD channels... I am using the S-Video connection for that (but from the same box, which is an HD box, I am using component cables for the HD connection). I do not have this problem AT ALL when it comes to my DVD recorder (using RCA cables), ANY HD programing or when I am watching a DVD (component cables also).

Thanks again for any help.

Dallas22

Dallas22

Not sure about the line, but would suggest that you NOT use the Svid connection since that would be a prime suspsect. I'm guessing you already tried to reseat the Svideo connectors, etc...

You say that you are already using Component for HD, so why not use it for SD as well? I'm not sure what your setup is, but with my Mits and Motorola cable box SD and/or HD come in via DVI, Component or Firewire. I just ignore the Svid.

I have a WS55315 service manual (my TV). I'm adjusting for overscan b/c the screen is bumped too far up so I want to center it. Do I go into the Green Coarse Convergence screen and adjust HSTA and VSTA values to fix this? Do I need to do this for all colors or just green and then after I'm done, reconverge the 65 points with red and blue? Thanks.

Originally posted by Paladyr1
I have a WS55315 service manual (my TV). I'm adjusting for overscan b/c the screen is bumped too far up so I want to center it. Do I go into the Green Coarse Convergence screen and adjust HSTA and VSTA values to fix this? Do I need to do this for all colors or just green and then after I'm done, reconverge the 65 points with red and blue? Thanks.
The basic saying here is "if you don’t know what you are doing, don’t change SM settings", If you choose to do so, write down all of the settings before you change any. The convergence mode is real time, all changes are permanent, no way to exit without saving.

Make sure you reset the convergence in the user menu first. Basically, the “Coarse” adjustments are for your geometry corrections and yes, adjust Green first then adjust Red and Blue to match. Finally, adjust Red and Blue to Green in the “Fine” convergence menu.

Originally posted by GlenC
The basic saying here is "if you don’t know what you are doing, don’t change SM settings", If you choose to do so, write down all of the settings before you change any. The convergence mode is real time, all changes are permanent, no way to exit without saving.

Make sure you reset the convergence in the user menu first. Basically, the “Coarse” adjustments are for your geometry corrections and yes, adjust Green first then adjust Red and Blue to match. Finally, adjust Red and Blue to Green in the “Fine” convergence menu.

Yea i'm following the steps in the manual and so far it's been pretty easy. The manual doesn't seem to give specific steps to adjust these values so I was just double checking. I also noticed the service manual stating a way to set all SM settings back to factory defaults so as a last resort that should do nicely!

Alright one more question. The entire service manual doesn't seem to mention how to turn SVM (Scan Velocity Modulation) off. The only page that mentions it is page 21 where it talks about "initial setup". It only says SVM is defaulted to On and doesn't say how to change it. Anyone know how I get in there and change it to off? Thanks!

Paladry1, try searching this thread for SVM

Your SVM on/off switch is likely in your user menu...not the service menu

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Paladry1, try searching this thead for SVM

Your SVM on/off switch is likely in your user menu...not the service menu

I found this in a review of my TV:

"The color decoder exhibited severe red push, but we significantly improved the situation by decreasing the red level with the Perfect Color feature. You're supposed to be able to disengage scan-velocity modulation (SVM), that nasty edge-enhancement circuit, but turning it off in the User menu has no effect. A professional calibrator can shut off SVM entirely in the Service menu, but we'd like Mitsubishi to give this option to consumers."

I also couldn't find the setting anywhere in the user menu. I'll keep looking.

I have a 65813. The SVM on/off is in the video options. It can be accessed via the user menu or by pressing the video button and then moving up/down to it.

I've got a 55613 and I believe disabling SVM for it requires some hands on wire snipping and soldering action that I wasn't really comfortable doing. There is a thread on Home Theater Spot with a walkthrough but I think its in the paid section.


Any of you guys using upconverting players with your Mitsu's? I'm interested in the Oppo and I was wandering if the pq would be greatly improved at 1080i over DVI as opposed to now with 480p over component? I'm currently using a Sony 5 disc prog carousel thats a couple years old..

I have a 65813 and I physically disconnected the SVM. After the SVM was disconnected, the sharpness needed to be increased for proper calibration. This indicates that even when the SVM is turned off in the user menu, it still affects the picture.

Sounds like too much trouble then (for reference sake I have a 55315). They must've put it in the video menu on the higher end models. Thanks for the info guys!

Your SM doesn't have a VM or VMLE parameter either?

The 55315 should be similar to the 55313 - http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3022222#post3022222

I've got a 55613 and I believe disabling SVM for it requires some hands on wire snipping and soldering action that I wasn't really comfortable doing. There is a thread on Home Theater Spot with a walkthrough but I think its in the paid section. It doesn't require any wire cutting or soldering. You simply unplug it from the board.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Your SM doesn't have a VM or VMLE parameter either?

The 55315 should be similar to the 55313 - http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3022222#post3022222

You're the man!!! Yes it does! I never would have known that equals SVM so thanks! I'll set it to 0 and see how things look after that.

That option is not in the service menu on the 55315.

..

I see it mentioned in the service manual although I haven't looked for it yet on my TV. I'm sure it's there...

Anyone aware of a firmware upgrade for Mits TVs that have a CableCARD slot? Something about the firmware must be flashed to enable the card to "talk" to the set.

The Mits site is next to useless. TV is a WS73615.

<edit> Turns out the set needs a FW upgrade that Mits is mailing out.

I just got my Mitsubishi 55315 today. I have browsed some of the forum threads, but am confused by all the parameters and choices for calibrating and tuning this unit. Does anyone have a basic set of things to tune up the picture? Or a link to such a thing?

The first thing you should do is go out and purchase a copy of Avia or Digital Video Essentials. In the mean time lower your contrast down to around 25% on all your video inputs, by default they're too high.

I have heard of these DVDs. I assume they give instruction inside the DVD. It appears both have advantages over the other but Avia might be a little better.

Any opinion about using component video versus DVI on this particular TV?

I've got a weird problem I could use some input with while I wait for Monday to call Mitsubishi.

I have a Comcast cable feed hooked to a WS73615 to utilize the internal tuner in the set. It receives and displays the analog and in-the-clear digital channels, including all the HD locals plus ESPN-HD and Discovery-HD. It works great for about 20-25 mins. At that point, the audio starts to have intermittent break-ups, a loss of audio. This gets progressively worse until about the 30-35 min point and then loses the audio altogether. The picture is perfect through all this. I initially thought that maybe the audio decoding part of the tuner was getting too hot. But here's the part that eliminates that theory, if I change the channel to a different station, or even change the channel and then back to the original station, the audio comes back nice and clear. Then the whole process starts over again and after about 30-35 mins, the audio is completely gone again. It's not the receiver(Denon 3805) the audio is plugged into as it's displays when it gets a signal and everytime the audio drops out it reflects that on the front panel display.

The WS73615 has a CableCARD slot and this happens both with the card plugged in and with it pulled out so I have eliminated the CableCARD has a possible issue.

If anyone has had a similar experience or is familiar with this problem I would sure like to hear from you.

Thanks.

Can't help you with your problem but do you have a DVR?

In the set? No. I have the Comcast DVR, the 6412.

Yes I meant the 6412. At least you can watch it until it is fixed. I guess you need the tuner when there are more than three things on at the same time. :) Of course it should work correctly. Hope it is an easy fix. You don't want to be without that beautiful set for any time at all.

Yes, that's really the only reason I'm getting it fixed, I can record two and watch a third utilizing the onboard tuner. Plus, I can get all the HD Comcast offers other than the movie channels by just feeding the cable to the TV. I don't even need to use the CableCARD which Comcast wants $6.95 a month for.

I haven't spent mich time yet with the internal tuner, but my initial thoughts were that the Mits tuner presented a better picture than the Comcast box does, so for that reason as well I want it fixed.

I use my internal tuner for the OTA digital channels Comcast doesn't have. Maybe I should check out its cable reception. 6.95 for the cable card and 9.95 for the DVR, that's crazy.

The 9.95 for the DVR is not bad as there is no additional equipment fee with it, just what ever the programming package costs. The 6.95 digital access fee is ridiculous though. Since I can get the 4 major nets, plus ESPN-HD and Discovery-HD by just plugging the cable in the set without using the CableCARD, I'm sending the card back.

I was just wondering if any of you guys who have removed your 65" diamond shield would be willing to part with it, or if anybody knew where I could order one. My kids have put a few scratches in mine.

I will part with mine (will Kinkos ship this thing?). PM me.

I was just wondering if any of you guys who have removed your 65" diamond shield would be willing to part with it, or if anybody knew where I could order one. My kids have put a few scratches in mine.
You might want to consider letting them scratch it a little more, until they get a little older, then just remove it. What are the odds a new shield will get scratched too?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/keenanj/21-1280.jpg

;) :D

Yeah, the new shield might get scratched eventually, but I have made a boundary that makes it harder for them to get to the TV. I would hold off on replacing it, but it has gotten to the point where I can occasionally see the scratches when I am watching from my favorite chair. This has proven to be very distracting. My boys are 4 and 2.5 years old, and my girl just turned 2 months old. If I waited until they were older, I would have to live with these scratches another 5 years. I just hope my girl doesn't turn out to be as wild as my boys are. :)

Hey all,

I have a situation where a Mitsu WS48613 was recently connected to a Comcast 6412 hd dvr box. The SD channels, set in standard format on the TV, cut the top of the picture off. If I go to a zoom mode or expand mode I know it's supposed to cut the top and bottom off a bit to eliminate the gray pillars on the sides but it shouldn't do that in standard, should it? And if so, why only the top part? It looks like peoples heads are cut off.
I talked to Comcast and the phone tech was pretty knowledgable telling me how to get to the menu for the box (power off and menu for anyone that wants to know). I noted the correct tv type (16:9) and YPbPr output (1080i) but there's this 4:3 override option. I had it set to 480i and changed it to 480p which didn't nothing for the format, it just made my picture grainy. I turned the override off and that limited the formats i could select on the Mitsu. I've fiddled with it long enough, any ideas?

Tony

Speedy,

Go into the setup menus on the 6412 and you should find an option for screen position. Adjust here to get the screen centered.

That's just for the on-screen menus, PG, etc. There is nothing that will move the image AFAIK.

There is nothing that will move the image AFAIK.There is on my 6412. I'll try and look tonight and provide the exact menu option on mine.

There is on my 6412. I'll try and look tonight and provide the exact menu option on mine.-->MAIN MENU
---->SETUP
------>SCREEN POSITION SETUP

I've always had this option (even before the dual-tuner upgrade)...but my current firmware is 09.18.

-->MAIN MENU
---->SETUP
------>SCREEN POSITION SETUP

I've always had this option (even before the dual-tuner upgrade)...but my current firmware is 09.18.
Yes, but try tuning to a 4x3 channel and then go to the SCREEN POSITION SETUP. Shift it all the way to left or right, and you'll see that it cuts off the OSD when you back out of the setup menu and pull up an INFO bar. All it does is move the OSD for guides and info bars, etc. It doesn't move the actual image of the broadcast itself.

I recently bought a 55813. The only issue that I have is that I cannot find a way to adjust the vertical position. The image has the top 1" pushed off the top of the screen. I noticed this after I got the AVIA disk. I have looked through this thread and was able to get to the service menu to adjust the horizontal position and width. I see VHGT (vertical height) but did not see any VPOS.

Have I overlooked the vertical positioning setting or is it named something else?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=3161805&&#post3161805For the overscan tweakers, in Geometry SM:

HSTA = Horizontal positioning
VSTA = Vertical positioning

Make all geometry changes to GREEN (RED and BLUE will follow GREEN). You will have to do some convergence correction to finalize.

Yes, but try tuning to a 4x3 channel and then go to the SCREEN POSITION SETUP. Shift it all the way to left or right, and you'll see that it cuts off the OSD when you back out of the setup menu and pull up an INFO bar. All it does is move the OSD for guides and info bars, etc. It doesn't move the actual image of the broadcast itself.
You're right!!!

You're right!!!
well, that's once anyhow... :p :D

After having read thru this thread a couple of times, I am still not quite sure what overscan is or what it completely does. What I have been able to get is that it acts something like a zoom function, and I take it that the lower the overscan the higher quality of the picture.

However I'm not sure of how to adjust this feature; it has been said in this thread to adjust the HSTA & the VSTA (if I am understanding this correctly). When I do this (canceling out of all changes) it looks like all it does is adjust the grid in relation to the screen, is this adjusting the overscan and if not how does one actually do this.

I have also seen % figures used in this thread about the amount of overscan, how does one arrive at these amounts?

Now for something else that has crossed my mind, just how does one adjust the electrical focus. I read in here to remove the front panel, and make sure not to touch the screen vr.

Are the two pots labeled as to which is which, and how do you adjust the electrical focus? Is there a knob that is turned on it, or what is done to make the adjustment? As you can tell I haven't removed the front panel yet, I don't want to get it opened up yet until I know what is what.

Anyway thanks to all for any help you can give me on these matters!

If you don't know what overscan is, you have a lot more reading to do. Google and forum searches are your friends. I would recommend you stay out of the TV and service menus as you can potentially do more harm than good. If you insist on messing with your TV, there are walkthroughs available to paid members at www.hometheaterspot.com

Correct me if I am wrong, but after more searching and getting the DVE disc my understanding of overscan is it is the area which is cut-off of the image that is being broadcast.

Now what I would like to know is how optimizing the overscan makes an improvement in the clarity of the picture (because I don't see how it could, more of the important parts of the image by centering yes), or is centering the image and reducing the amount of image cut-off all that it does?

Some more questions; what would be the result if the boxes in the geometry were made smaller or larger (while staying in vertical and horizontal proportion to the original size) than their original size? Would clarity be improved? Along this line of thinking, wouldn't the boxes need to be smaller to reach an overscan of 3%?

Lastly what can be done to optimize clarity of the picture; I have manual/electrical lens focus on my list, probably contrast (eliminate blooming), and convergence. What other things can be done for clarity?

Speaking of lens focus, I have a WS65313. Are the pots marked (haven't opened it up yet, not until I have a good idea of what is what in there), and if not which are the screen vr's and which are the electrical vr's?

Thanks!

dcmo, as Marc mentioned in the previous post, you should really, really, consider having your display professionally calibrated. Especially if you are unfamiliar with the inner workings of the service menu as you can very easily damage the display if you don't know what you are doing.

Reducing overscan tightens the image up, imagine a picture on your computer that has been zoomed in and how the pixels become larger and blockier, when you reduce overscan you not only get as much of the image on the screen as possible, but it is much more detailed.

The WS65313 is an excellent display and would no doubt benefit from a pro calibration. CRT based displays can gain a large improvement over the out-of-the-box settings when properly calibrated.

"Reducing overscan tightens the image up, imagine a picture on your computer that has been zoomed in and how the pixels become larger and blockier, when you reduce overscan you not only get as much of the image on the screen as possible, but it is much more detailed."

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems to me as if you are talking about going beyond centering the image (equal amount of overscan on all sounds), and actually talking about the reduction of the squares in the grid (both horizontally and vertically in proportion) to further reduce overscan.

Right now all I am doing is a little playing around to see what makes what do what (is that enough whats), while not pushing the settings to their extreme values. All original values have been recorded and then set back to them (also being very careful to not push any buttons which I don't already know, for instance what is 7,8, & 9 in the geometry mode or how about combinations of numbers or any other patterns of numbers or characters). I'm not ready to do a full overscan on the tv yet, and won't be for a while (yes I could get a professional, but this is mentally stimulating and is enjoyable. I would rather do it myself, but only when I feel ready to do it). Marc said the DVE overscan pattern (if I recall correctly) was inaccurate, and for the AVIA pattern to be used. I still have yet to get AVIA, and need to also order the service manual and read it in detail. The holes that are still left in my knowledge after reading these, I will try to fill in by asking questions. All help is appreciated, and I will surely need more of it.

Yes, overscan means adjusting the size of the picture that is cut off around the edges...different from centering. The overscan test pattern on AVIA can be used for both overscan and centering. I believe you can also use the THX optimode pattern on most THX DVDs for centering.

I have a WS-65815. It is about 3 months old. I have maybe about 80 hors of viewing on it.

Recently I have noticed that the picture appears to be rotated ever so slightly counter-clockwise. Maybe just a few degrees. This manifests itself in a couple of ways: when watching 2.35 DVDs, the black bar at the top is wider on the left side of the screen than it is at the right side and the black bar that the bottom is narrower on the left side of the screen than it is on the right side of the screen. A similar scenario can be observed when viewing my Tivo menus as lines that deliniate the tops and bottoms of various menus and lists (now playing list) are on slight angles running upper right to lower left. Clearly these lines are intended to be straight.

I've adjusted convergence from the 64 point convergence screen the best that I can (get a headache when looking at that screen), but it doesn't seem to really help.

Anything I can do to fix this? I am considering getting an ISF calibration, and assume that would fix the problem, but was just wondering what I could do in the mean time.

Yes, a calibrator can fix the problem, but if the TV is still under warranty, you might pursue that approach first. Many will charge for the geometry correction if it is not included in their calibration fees.

Make sure your calibrator is experienced with adjusting geometry (hopefully, specifically with Mits). ISF training does not teach this.

You'll be safe with these guys: www.lionav.com

I have a 65813 and I physically disconnected the SVM.

How...How..HOW??

Thanks!

I have a Mitsubishi WS 55515 does anyone now how to pull up OTA signal strenth? Is it in the servive menu? Thanks John

I have a Mitsubishi WS 55515 does anyone now how to pull up OTA signal strenth? Is it in the servive menu? Thanks John
I get my signal strength from the Zenith 520 set-top box. I don't know of any crt tv's with signal strength capabilities. I may be wrong...

Howdy all. On a new 42315, I'm getting a horizontal band (think they call it "artifact") running upwards on the screen, and I notice it going from 3/4 up the screen to the top.
Usually, a setting change or fast motion causes it... never have it in a static image.

Anyone know what is causing this? Could it be some film mode or something?

Hi All,

I am planning to run some slide shows (digital pictures) on a 48-413. I ran them on DVD but they don't look as sharp. So I thought about displaying the pics directly from the pc (a laptop) for better reolution. Is this line of TV's capable of displaying a PC source (like my laptop VGA output). I remember reading the manual and stating that the DVI input is not meant for use with PCs but I never tried it. Is anyone displaying a PC source in their 2004 models ?

I'd love some more info on the mods for a 62815. I'm looking seriously at getting one. Will it aproach the picture I get on my ECP 4500?

Hi All,

I am planning to run some slide shows (digital pictures) on a 48-413. I ran them on DVD but they don't look as sharp. So I thought about displaying the pics directly from the pc (a laptop) for better reolution. Is this line of TV's capable of displaying a PC source (like my laptop VGA output). I remember reading the manual and stating that the DVI input is not meant for use with PCs but I never tried it. Is anyone displaying a PC source in their 2004 models ?

Yes. Works great. There is a very, very long thread about it in the home theater computer forum.

Yes. Works great. There is a very, very long thread about it in the home theater computer forum.

Can you point me to the thread or what is the title of it. Thanks

Have you even looked (its a sticky)?

Have you even looked (its a sticky)?

Yes I have but did not read deep enough I guess. Thanks for the clue though. :D

I tried disabling the fan over the tuner module and was rewarded with a TV that wouldn't start. Obviously there is a sensing circuit, the question is how can I defeat it in order to sub a bigger quieter fan from PC Power and Cooling... The model of the TV is 65815.

Could a kind AVS soul please PM me with the 65815 service code?? I received my TV last week and the Geometry needs to be corrected. I'm having a problem with picture shift on letterbox DVD's where the black bar on the top is much smaller than on the bottom and the actual picture area is shifted toward the top.

Any help on this minor issue I'm having WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!! :D

Thanks in advance.

Cliff

menu 2457, but be careful you can really mess things up. I would recommend that you purchase and download the service manual. It only cost $25.

Cliff knows CRT stuff
like me, he has been using CRT PJ's for years ;)

-Gary

I have a WS-B55, Best Buy i know i should have know better, Buy my son got a discount so i fell for it. Well now after being on for 120 seconds the CRTs go out of aligment, see attached photos.

Before I haul it to the shop i was hoping some one can tell me what happend. Also may be a SWAG on what it will cost to fix. Thanks

I have a WS-B55, Best Buy i know i should have know better, Buy my son got a discount so i fell for it. Well now after being on for 120 seconds the CRTs go out of aligment, see attached photos.

Before I haul it to the shop i was hoping some one can tell me what happend. Also may be a SWAG on what it will cost to fix. ThanksIs it under warranty?

I have not found the manual yet, but it is over 3 years old. So i do not think it is under warranty. But i'am still looking.

I have not found the manual yet, but it is over 3 years old. So i do not think it is under warranty. But i'am still looking.

ServiceManuals.net has it,

http://servicemanuals.net/(542i1355cjtjhl31w04rtnrj)/service.aspx
Service manuals, Sony service manual, Panasonic, Sony, Mitsubishi, service manual, Marantz, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer, Pioneer service manual

I was looking for the owners manual to read the warranty info. The manual also has the store paper work in it so I can determine if it is still covered.

But thanks for the info on the service manual.

Just from looking the picture that you posted this does not look like an expensive repair. Obviously something is a miss in the convergence circuit. Hard to nail it down with out being able to poke around with a meter. Sorry I am not much help. Mike/KD9RG

Just from looking the picture that you posted this does not look like an expensive repair. Obviously something is a miss in the convergence circuit. Hard to nail it down with out being able to poke around with a meter. Sorry I am not much help. Mike/KD9RG


Thanks for the help mike. I though the same thing.

It has been working ok for now. Once in a while it will go into problem mode. But some times if you turn it off and on again if work ok.

So I'am thing I will need to let it break all the way before taking it in.

It kind of sounds like a cold solder joint... Makes me want to go in and Freon the board to see if I can locate the problem...

Sean

It kind of sounds like a cold solder joint... Makes me want to go in and Freon the board to see if I can locate the problem...

Sean

What does the freon do?

What does the freon do?

If you have a "cold solder joint" on a circuit board, usually rapidly chilling the joint will cause it to work briefly. A common diagnosis technique is to use a can of freon, with a spray tip and a long plastic tube to direct the spray directly onto questionable solder connections. If by rapidly chilling down the connection, the problem temporarily goes away then you can feel confident that the joint is defective and needs to have the solder reflowed. This technique can also be used to troubleshoot other small components in an electrical circuit. Sometimes resistors and capacitors can be intermittant when warmed up by the heat of operation of a device. Example: Your TV works when turned on, but after a while it stops working. By using the "chilling" technique you can rapidly chill down suspect parts and see if they start working. If so, then the parts need to be replaced. Back in the days when television sets were all "tube" sets, there was a lot of heat generated and all parts got very warm, and thus components failed more often than now. Chilling a part or solder joint is a recognized diagnostic technique that has been used for years.

Thanks for the quick education.

I did not think any one actualy fixed anythig these days. I thought most shops just replace modules.

The convergence ICs can be a problem on these, the solder joints too.

So should I take the TV in now when it works most of the time but not all time. Or just wait for it to completly break?

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks

This TV has been nothing but problems for me for the past 4 months. Join the club.

I have a $2000 estimate to fix the damn thing. The TV cost me $4000 after ISF calibration and have to have either the DM board, signal board or doubler board replaced. Mitsubishi has said that it's not economical for them to do anything with the TV and even though I have no warranty on the TV they might be replacing it.

Any hardware/tech geeks out there may wanna take a stab at what's wrong; here is the deal:

The TV is losing picture, the menu system still works, the netcommand system still works and I can see the OSD's even after it goes into this "mode". The guy that has been coming out to fix it is dumbfounded and has not been successful at diagnosing whatever the heck is wrong with the set. All we can figure out is that it's losing sync. The picture will come back on (occasionally) after I shut it off and turn it back on. Something is quite odd about the whole thing and it's pissing me off.

Oh well. Hopefully something comes of this soon.

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks
Does the front lower panel come off on that model? If it does there might be a connector there that feeds the button pad to the electronics in the bottom of the set, you might try disconnecting and re-connecting that plug to see if that helps.

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

ThanksGive this a try: press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds.

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks
My 48311 has a menu option to disable the front panel buttons, I guess to keep the grandkids from playing with them.

Perhaps you have the same option and it somehow got activated?

AnthonyB, what is the best way to contact Mits about the problem? Did you call tech support or go through the dealer, etc?

My 48311 has a menu option to disable the front panel buttons, I guess to keep the grandkids from playing with them.

Perhaps you have the same option and it somehow got activated?

It did not get actived accidently but i think the electronics related to it are somehow involved. On the 55413 this option is buried in the vchip config menu. The manual says if you have it activated (locked) and you lose the remote that you can press and hold the menu key for 8 seconds to disable it. I did that and the front panel kinda worked, but it is like wires were randomly being crossed and the remote totally did not work after that. When I pulled the plug and waited a bit and plugged it back the remote will work again and the front buttons don't. At least I have an out if the remote gets lost. Thanks, Budget_HT.

AnthonyB, what is the best way to contact Mits about the problem? Did you call tech support or go through the dealer, etc?The front panel keys are lockable. Did you try pressing and holdding the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds or more? That is the unlock code.

Yeah, see my post right before yours.

The manual says if you have it activated (locked) and you lose the remote that you can press and hold the menu key for 8 seconds to disable it.The Mitsubishi technical service added this " This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds". That is all they have on the issue, unless you were unable to turn on the TV (no power). you might try to unplug the TV for 30-minutes and let it re-boot.

i know the front panel was not locked because you have define a vchip code before you can get to that menu and their was not one define when i checked it and it was not set to locked either. when i do press the menu and hold the menu button the remote stops working, but the buttons do work a sort of. it seems like they have water it them. different keys do different things at different times. if i remove AC for a minute the remote will work fine when i plug the tv back in but the front panel buttons don't work at all.

Thanks,
Shawn

Anyone know how to shift the whole picture down an 1" or 2" on a WS65615? My over scan is OK but I need to shift the entire picture down a little.
I went into the convergince menu an adjusted the VSTA down. Is this the correct thing to do?

I have a WS-B55, Best Buy i know i should have know better, Buy my son got a discount so i fell for it. Well now after being on for 120 seconds the CRTs go out of aligment, see attached photos.

Before I haul it to the shop i was hoping some one can tell me what happend. Also may be a SWAG on what it will cost to fix. Thanks

Just as a follow up on this repair.

It cost $249.00 to replace the two IC that control the convergence.

I am about to move back to Dallas, but this cross country move will include my 65813... I am really nervous about the effect that moving this thing will have on it.. Any suggestions? Any special packing requests I should have for the movers? I would assume that when I get to Dallas I will need to repeat the ISF calabration I had done on it a year ago.

I am about to move back to Dallas, but this cross country move will include my 65813... I am really nervous about the effect that moving this thing will have on it.. Any suggestions? Any special packing requests I should have for the movers? I would assume that when I get to Dallas I will need to repeat the ISF calabration I had done on it a year ago.Obviously having the original box would help. I assume a moving company will be doing the moving……if they use trucks with air-ride suspension, you should be pretty safe. Yes because of the geographical location change and global orientation change, the effects of geomagnetism will affect the geometry. Even the service menu convergence and geometry will be affected. The grayscale should be fairly intact, discounting the changes that have occurred in a years use since calibration. Red, Green and Blue phosphors all age at a different rate, thus the recommendation for a calibration tune-up after a year. I would recommend getting the TV setup and use for a while to get it acclimated to the new location, then, get a calibration and enjoy a great picture. You might also consider having the lenses and mirror cleaned and mechanical focus done after the move.

Obviously having the original box would help. I assume a moving company will be doing the moving……if they use trucks with air-ride suspension, you should be pretty safe. Yes because of the geographical location change and global orientation change, the effects of geomagnetism will affect the geometry. Even the service menu convergence and geometry will be affected. The grayscale should be fairly intact, discounting the changes that have occurred in a years use since calibration. Red, Green and Blue phosphors all age at a different rate, thus the recommendation for a calibration tune-up after a year. I would recommend getting the TV setup and use for a while to get it acclimated to the new location, then, get a calibration and enjoy a great picture. You might also consider having the lenses and mirror cleaned and mechanical focus done after the move.


The TV was bought in Oct 2004 and ISF Calabrated in Jan 05 (or about that time). I do not have the box, but will put the protective shield over the screen for the move. Most of my estimates have included the movers making some sort of crate for the TV.

I had actually thought that maybe it would be better to sell it and look for another TV when I got to Texas, but I really like the pic on this one and I am not 100% sure there is a digital display out there I am sold on.

Hi guys. My dad has a ws-65813 and it has done the random reboot thing a few times over the years. However, last night, it rebooted and failed to come back on. Also, he has a firewire cable between the TV and his computer, and noticed a lot of firebus errors around the same time that it rebooted for the last time.

Since the TV is several years old, I'm assuming its not under warranty anymore. I did some searching but the best I could come up with was the DM module could be faulty. Any ideas? Thanks.

Hi guys. My dad has a ws-65813 and it has done the random reboot thing a few times over the years. However, last night, it rebooted and failed to come back on. Also, he has a firewire cable between the TV and his computer, and noticed a lot of firebus errors around the same time that it rebooted for the last time.

Since the TV is several years old, I'm assuming its not under warranty anymore. I did some searching but the best I could come up with was the DM module could be faulty. Any ideas? Thanks.You should contact Mitsubishi to get the firmware upgrade. The upgrade is to help fix the reboot issue.

This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source)

There are a few known issues for “No power”

1. PC9A10 on the Power PCB
2. LED does not blink at plug in, possibly the reset switch, S7L20 on the Control PCB.
3. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. DM PCB
4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB
6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked, suspect the E2P PCB.

A Mitsubishi service tech should be able to fix this easily.

You should contact Mitsubishi to get the firmware upgrade. The upgrade is to help fix the reboot issue.

This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source)

There are a few known issues for “No power”

1. PC9A10 on the Power PCB
2. LED does not blink at plug in, possibly the reset switch, S7L20 on the Control PCB.
3. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. DM PCB
4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB
6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked, suspect the E2P PCB.

A Mitsubishi service tech should be able to fix this easily.


Thanks Glen for the info. Currently it is doing #3 on your list. Is it possible to upgrade the firmware in this state?

Also, I was thinking of removing and reinserting the DM module, by looking at the service manual, it seems pretty straightforward.

If all else fails we're gonna find a service tech to come out. Any recommendations for the Northern Virginia area (fairfax)?

Thanks again.

The Mits info on #3 is: "Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067002.

Re-inserting the DM might be an option, I hear poor connections can happen.

73703 question.

will i be able to to use the dvi input to the tv from the hd dvd and blue ray players coming out to use the players full hd capability?

i was told, "As long as your mits dvi input has the HDCP algorithm you should be fine."

does this apply to the 73703?

I have a Mitsu WS48413 RPTV that is a few years old now. I read here a long time ago about changing the remote control format so that the number 1 thru 9 could each designate a video input. I have an MX-500 remote that I need to update to add a video input and cannot remeber how I did that before. This is useful as the macro's that can be done do not have to be done using the Device key on the remote and selecting the source needed.

Anyone have any idea what I am talking about?

Y0ou might want to try over on the home theater spot forums. For some reason, most of the Mits CRT types end up there.

Sean

Thanks. I did end up finding the answer in the Remote Control section:

For anybody that needs the process to change the Mitsu remote to give discrete codes for inputs and for On/Off

Look here : http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-master/thread.cgi?4300

Can someone send me the .05 firmware please, I can't get any digital channels anymore, thanks in advance if possible

If it's what I think you're asking for, you'll have to get it from Mits. They send it out on a USB key drive and when the display is updated the drive is wiped.

I have a version on my computer, I'm unsure if it's .05 but I know you can copy it before you stick it in your tv.

It's a compact flash card.

As for the version that is on my computer, tell me how to find out what the version number is and I'll send it to you if it's the right update.

OVERSCAN
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=312716

Hi guys, I don't get what it means by this one?

Mode = Def Jungle

By the way, my set is a 48313 and VMLE was set to 2. I changed it to 0 and BAM, it's more sharper now. :D

I recently "deleted" the 'NetCommand" settings on my 65813 so I could use my new Harmony remote... Is it possible that when I did that delete, I also changed or deleted the PQ settings from my ISF calibration? The values appear to be the same, but something isn't right about the PQ since then.. Am I paraniod?

I wouldn't think that the NetCommand setting would affect the calibration. But I know what it's like ( I wonder if I .......). I have been using a Harmony with the 65813 for a couple years with out ever deleting the NetCommand settings in spite of the instruction to do so by the Harmony.

Maybe the set got bumped and it's just the convergence that's off a bit? Good luck with it.

Frank

(ed: spite not spit)

I agree, Netcommand should not affect the calibration. My understanding is that the settings will drift over time no matter what you do. Though I've never had one yet, the Calibrators all mention the annual/biannual readjustments neccessary.

Have had a 48413 for 2-3 years now, and when I first got it, I went through and setup all the settings, and was good for me. I have adjusted the convergence maybe 3-4 times over that period of time. Recently, after a replacement satellite receiver, I noticed the HD quality not as it should be. It appears to be good from OTA HD, but the sat receiver HD channels seem to suffer from pixelation/grainy unfocused areas during action type sequences in the show.
Was wondering if this could be the sat receiver.....? or does my tv need re-adjusting...?
Also, the unit is in a bonus room over a garage with 2 garage doors just below opening everyday, could the vibration from the garage openers cause the tv to go out of adjustment quicker ?
Thanks for any info...
D

Have had a 48413 for 2-3 years now, and when I first got it, I went through and setup all the settings, and was good for me. I have adjusted the convergence maybe 3-4 times over that period of time. Recently, after a replacement satellite receiver, I noticed the HD quality not as it should be. It appears to be good from OTA HD, but the sat receiver HD channels seem to suffer from pixelation/grainy unfocused areas during action type sequences in the show.
Was wondering if this could be the sat receiver.....? or does my tv need re-adjusting...?
Also, the unit is in a bonus room over a garage with 2 garage doors just below opening everyday, could the vibration from the garage openers cause the tv to go out of adjustment quicker ?
Thanks for any info...
D

Who's your sat provider? From what I have read/heard, the PQ of most HD material from DirecTv (D*) can be kinda crappy. Many call it "Hd-Lite". Lots of compression going on, esp if they carry your local network HD signals over sat. DishNetwork (E*), to some, is a bit better. But they offer fewer HD locals over the satellite.

For me, digital cable w/ HD gives me the best PQ. I have relatives with HD service from both sat providers. My HD and SD digital cable from Comcast (esp. HD locals) just looks better.

Then again, this was a replacement receiver? More likely an issue with that, esp. if it looked good before. Being that your set is likely a 1080i native res., you might check your receiver's HD output. May be set to 720p, wich mught cause issues (even though your set can accept 720p signals).

I do know that when I swapped cable box/HDDVR's recently, my SD PQ improved. This was due to the fact that the newer HDDVR/cable box had a better video chip. Might contact the sat provider and have them bring a new, identical unit out to see if you still have an issue.

Of course, local HD via OTA will still be "the best".

Vibrations from movement and what not can and will knock your convergence out of alignment (usually if the set gets moved). But those garage doors would have to be pretty massive/cause A LOT of shaking to cause you much of a problem, I'd guess.

Thanks JWEBB,
I am using Dish as the sat provider(811).....and the HD content was pretty good before I exchanged the sat receiver. So, I may go down that road to see if it has a problem..
As stated earlier, the OTA locals in HD are still good......
I watched MI II last night, and some of the action scenes were just horrible.....so I think between the new sat receiver and my set being out of adjustment, it really opened my eyes...so to speak...
Thanks again,
D

Thanks JWEBB,
I am using Dish as the sat provider(811).....and the HD content was pretty good before I exchanged the sat receiver. So, I may go down that road to see if it has a problem..
As stated earlier, the OTA locals in HD are still good......
I watched MI II last night, and some of the action scenes were just horrible.....so I think between the new sat receiver and my set being out of adjustment, it really opened my eyes...so to speak...
Thanks again,
D

I recorded MI:II last night. I just went and skipped to a few spots and watched it. The PQ is fine. I would strongly suspect the receiver. I am watching on calibrated MIts 65813. Good Luck.

I recorded MI:II last night. I just went and skipped to a few spots and watched it. The PQ is fine. I would strongly suspect the receiver. I am watching on calibrated MIts 65813. Good Luck.

Any help would be appreciated.....where can I find the following settings ?

Mits 48413 settings ssh1, shf1, prov and LT1-1? how to set ?

Have a Mits 48413 and have been watching for a couple of years without any settings change, and have decided to tweek .
Search revealed settings that probably need to be changed, I purchased a service manual and feel comfortable making changes, but I don't see these settings in the service manual. Where are these settings and how do you change them ?

Thanks
D

Any help would be appreciated.....where can I find the following settings ?

Mits 48413 settings ssh1, shf1, prov and LT1-1? how to set ?

Have a Mits 48413 and have been watching for a couple of years without any settings change, and have decided to tweek .
Search revealed settings that probably need to be changed, I purchased a service manual and feel comfortable making changes, but I don't see these settings in the service manual. Where are these settings and how do you change them ?

Thanks
D

I am not familiar with these settings. Can you describe them? I am happy to help where I can.

I am not familiar with these settings. Can you describe them? I am happy to help where I can.

I really don't know....just read on this thread that these settings can make a huge difference...just wanted to find out how to access them and check their default setting....
Thanks
D

These settings affect edge enhancement. Turning them all to zero results in a very soft picture. Use sharpness test patterns and actual program material and tweak to your preference.

These settings affect edge enhancement. Turning them all to zero results in a very soft picture. Use sharpness test patterns and actual program material and tweak to your preference.

Hey Marc, Thanks for the reply....but I was wondering how to get to these settings ?

Mits 48413 settings ssh1, shf1, prov and LT1-1? how to set ?

I purchased a service manual and have gone thru the service menus that I am aware of on the Mits 48413 and recorded all of my values. I cannot find these fields anywhere...?

Thanks
Dennis

My bad...I thought you already knew how to set these. How'd you hear about them?

Most Mits do not give you direct access to these settings anymore. They must be accessed using the "black box"/I2C

More info is available to paid members over at hometheaterspot.com

I own a ws-55615 mits. it has 4 pin firewire inputs. does anyone know if this particular genre of mits will recognize and play back HDV from a HD camcorder?

Well, I tried...the camcorder is recognized by the Mits but the device menu selection is "greyed out".. It shows up but cant be selected. This is even with the camcorder set up to only output downconvered HDV to Regular DV through the cable.

Hello!

Can someone please point me in the right direction... i have used a test pattern to determine that i am around 5% overscan on my mits 65815... I am a techie so service menus don't scare me but i just need some direction, i can't seem to find this info on the net which surprised me!

Your help is appreciated!

Hello!

Can someone please point me in the right direction... i have used a test pattern to determine that i am around 5% overscan on my mits 65815... I am a techie so service menus don't scare me but i just need some direction, i can't seem to find this info on the net which surprised me!

Your help is appreciated!I don't recommend reducing overscan much below 5% on the Mits. You start getting all sorts of geometry and convergence errors that cannot be corrected. The best solution I have found for the Mits CRT is the addition of a Lumagen Video Processor. You can virtually correct all of the Gray-scale, Gamma, color decoding and over-scan issues.

I spent 2-days reducing my 65813 to 2% and have since expanded it further out and use the Lumagen.

Hello!

Can someone please point me in the right direction... i have used a test pattern to determine that i am around 5% overscan on my mits 65815... I am a techie so service menus don't scare me but i just need some direction, i can't seem to find this info on the net which surprised me!

Your help is appreciated!

Hi - The service manual is available at servicemanuals.net for $16.99

thanks for the info guys... i guess if 5% is about normal, i will not screw with it...

4% overscan is easily achievable on these sets. Anymore than that is an effort in futility for most (I have achieved close to 3% after hours and hours of adjustment on my own set and it just wasn't worth it as the convergence would drift over time more than normal). Scan the first few pages of this thread for information on adjusting overscan.

Riz,

There is a nice site called hometheaterspot.com that specializes in Mits tvs. I think that's partially why so little activity is seen for these tvs here. I have a 65815 that runs 2% after quite a few tweaks and a Lumagen HDQ video processor to help the TV along. If you're curious about the tweaks that can be done to thtis model go over to the Spot. I think it's 20 bucks to become a amaber, but it's the best twenty bucks I spent on my 65815.

Sean

I recently purchased a WS73713 from a gentleman about a mile from my house. I went and checked the TV out and it was working fine at his place. I then had the TV moved from his house to my house .. The move was the usual struggle as the tv weighs over 300 lbs.. But no sharp bumps or drops.. Now after I got it into my house and I plug it in, the TV refuses to turn on.. Just a blinking green light at the power button.. I wonder if the move dislodged something in the TV, like a connection or something.. Has anyone had that happen ? Any known fixes or places to look? Any help would be appreciated...
thanks
Karthick

I recently purchased a WS73713 from a gentleman about a mile from my house. I went and checked the TV out and it was working fine at his place. I then had the TV moved from his house to my house .. The move was the usual struggle as the tv weighs over 300 lbs.. But no sharp bumps or drops.. Now after I got it into my house and I plug it in, the TV refuses to turn on.. Just a blinking green light at the power button.. I wonder if the move dislodged something in the TV, like a connection or something.. Has anyone had that happen ? Any known fixes or places to look? Any help would be appreciated...
thanks
Karthick

Hi. You might want to post this in this thread

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922

Bob knows a lot about these sets and will likely be able to at least give you an idea of the potential issues. That TV is amazing and I highly recommend you get it fixed and calibrated. I have a 65813 that has amazing PQ. Good luck. Joe

Sounds like the capacitors in the DM board. I was able to replace mine pretty easily (but I do have some soldering experience). I am sure if you do a search for DM module or DM board and capacitors you will find plenty of informations.

I recently purchased a WS73713 from a gentleman about a mile from my house. I went and checked the TV out and it was working fine at his place. I then had the TV moved from his house to my house .. The move was the usual struggle as the tv weighs over 300 lbs.. But no sharp bumps or drops.. Now after I got it into my house and I plug it in, the TV refuses to turn on.. Just a blinking green light at the power button.. I wonder if the move dislodged something in the TV, like a connection or something.. Has anyone had that happen ? Any known fixes or places to look? Any help would be appreciated...
thanks
Karthick

Just hit the sleep button on the remote when the green light is flashing, then you should be able to turn on the TV.

Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... :( it never goes out...

Some times mine "resets its self". I turn it on and it blinks for what seems like forever (probably a minute or two). It always came on and was never a serious problem for me. It's has done this much less frequently (almost never) since I started using the cable providers tune instead of the built in tuner. I seem to recall getting a scare once when it wouldn't come on. I think I unplugged it for a few minutes and tried again and fortunately it's been fine for years. Certainly worth a try if you haven't already.

Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... :( it never goes out...It is most likely a problem with the DM PCB........ There is a Service Tip "VS-74 5", for a possible issue with bad capacitors on the DM PCB. A local Mits Service Tech should have the details.

Sleep button? You mean the power button? There is no "sleep" button on my remote.. I pressed the power button but all I got was the blinking light.. non stop... :( it never goes out...

So, you don't have the original remote?
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y140/pbmax542/remote.jpg

my bad.. lol... i do have the original remote but never saw that button :(

I finally gave in and got a tech to take a look at the TV.. he looked around inside the tv at the various boards with a flashlight.. trying to see if the move had somehow dislodged anything or broken anything.. after a while, he gave up and then took out the whole chassis of the TV .. He is working on the thing at his shop now :(..

my bad.. lol... i do have the original remote but never saw that button :(

Here is a link to fix yourself if they come back with a crazy price.
http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=20219

Yeah. I saw that a while ago..In fact I forwarded that link to my tech to let him know that other people had fixed it themselves (if the problem is the DM in this case..)..

YUp. It ended up being the capacitors on the DM board.. I paid a local tech $150 to fix the caps and now everything is fine.. Boots up fine.. Picture quality is fine.. Now to calibrate the set properly :)......

Glad you got it worked out. $150 seems very reasonable to me. Strange that the capacitors blew at the same time as the move. Is there a reason for that?

Are you going to have a Pro calibrate for you?

Frank

I agree that it was weird but the Tech had what seems like a plausible explanation.. He said that the previous owner probably had the set plugged in for a long time and the capacitors never got discharged.. Also having been plugged in for a long time the processor never needed to reboot...oh well..
About the pro calibration, i doubt I can afford something like that.. I am very happy with the picture the way it is. Perhaps I will get the avia or DVE disc and do a user level calibration.. I will get some screenshots on here ...

I agree that it was weird but the Tech had what seems like a plausible explanation.. He said that the previous owner probably had the set plugged in for a long time and the capacitors never got discharged.. Also having been plugged in for a long time the processor never needed to reboot...oh well..


Mine has never been un-plugged (or it has been plugged in for about 5 years).
So then once I unplug it I face the risk of the capacitors blowing? What about when power goes out? Same risk? :confused:

Cucuy, the very same thought went though my head when I read that.

Same here, but I've had a few power outages in the last few years so I think I'm in good shape.

So..I have a 55513. It's about 4 years old - never really cared to tweak it except the stuff in the user menu.

Yesterday, I went into the service menu for the first time and adjusted the overscan settings (i used ESPNNEWS HD as the reference). I still have no idea how to do the convergence stuff, or what exactly needs to be done.

Also, from reading this thread, it sounds like my model (55513, integrated tuner) has SVM/VSM turned on all the time?

Donnie mentioned something about unplugging a connector to disable the circuit - can someone give me instructions on what to take apart and what connector needs to be unplugged?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=5618195&postcount=332

Thanks.

Never experienced Black Crush on my 65813, which was professionally calibrated a few years ago and I have kept up with my amateur abilities and Joe Kane DVDs, until I hooked up my PS3 via DVI and watched a few films..

Narnia and Cloverfield were almost ruined by the horrible black crush, but I'm not sure it isn't those specific movies because I've never seen this when working with the calibration DVDs...

Is this a result of using the DVI input rather than the component input?

thoughts and advice are appreciated.

I have same TV, using component. It is also calibrated. I have never experienced that with mine. I watched both of those movies and never noticed anything.

I believe each input of the TV is calibrated. So it's very possible switching over the the DVI input contributed largely to the problem.

Never experienced Black Crush on my 65813, which was professionally calibrated a few years ago and I have kept up with my amateur abilities and Joe Kane DVDs, until I hooked up my PS3 via DVI and watched a few films..

Narnia and Cloverfield were almost ruined by the horrible black crush, but I'm not sure it isn't those specific movies because I've never seen this when working with the calibration DVDs...

Is this a result of using the DVI input rather than the component input?

thoughts and advice are appreciated.

You probably have the RGB output setting on the PS3 set to full. Try changing the Playstation 3 setting to RGB limited. Basically as I understand it and read about it here the Mits DVI input is expecting RGB values to be 16-235 (studio/video color space) but you are giving it 0-255 (PC color space) which are meant to be for computer monitors.

Hey guys, my family has a Mitsu WS-55313 it has been treating us well. I have recently saved up my money and have gotten a PS3. Now, because the TV only supports 1080i and 480p/i that means for my High Definition needs I have to put it on 1080i for the games.

After buying Metal Gear Solid 4 for the PS3 (Amazing game by the way..) I have noticed during the menu's the white text seems to be "bleeding" a little bit of red which is very annoying. I have also noticed that the XMB text seems to be a little "soft" almost as if it was out of focus.

I am only a High School student, and we got this TV a looong time ago (About 3 years ago) so its doubtful that I would be able to convince my parents to get a technician over here to do some calibrating.. and currently I don't have any money for the AVIA Setup disk.

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do? I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do?
The simplest step is to do an advanced convergence. It's likely that the red bleed over in the white lettering your seeing is due to the convergence coming off a little. This is fairly simple to do and requires no advanced tools for the convergence.

Try the convergence and it may fix your main problem now. DVE or Avia can help clean up the color, contrast, etc. and may still be worth doing, but an advanced convergence is likely your best bet IMO and an easy starting point.

I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?

Additionally, you can try getting one from Netflix if your family (or firends) subs to it. The only downside may be that you may not get the color filters required to do some color settings. Your best bet is a friend who has the disk and the color filters

I am only a High School student, and we got this TV a looong time ago (About 3 years ago) so its doubtful that I would be able to convince my parents to get a technician over here to do some calibrating.. and currently I don't have any money for the AVIA Setup disk.

I really want to fix all of these problems that I have mentioned though... is there anything I can do? I am trying to see if I can get ahold of a AVIA disk from a friend maybe who might have it.. but in the mean time, is it possible for me to be able to calibrate the TV on my own and get it looking pretty good?

The Avia disk is not all that expensive and can be used again and again. I found two on Amazon for $25.79.

What really caught my eye was your comment about the age of this set. For this TV, it is a baby. Plus, using Aiva (or DVE) is not the same as a full calibration. I used Avia and DVE in the beginning just to get the PQ better until the calibrator I wanted to do it was on tour in my area. I have the 65813 and calibrated. I am still blown away by the PQ and have not seen anything in the stores that comes close, especially in the black area.

You might also want to check out this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=121

Good Luck. Joe

Thanks, I did some tweaking and it looks better (or so I think it does). I will probably buy a AVIA disk.

This thread looks a bit dead but worth a try...

I have a Mits 65712. I am using a HDFury2 to convert the RGBHV (1080i) to HDMI. Everything works very well and the picture is great, however whenever I power up the set I get a message telling me that the power was off, or there may be a problem with my RGB or component connection. Press any button on the remote and the message goes away. Thoughts?

dlodi,

I have a 65813 and I seem to recall an option somewhere in the menu system regarding power on. I think it tells the set whether to power off completely or just go into standby when it is turned off. Probably not a solution but worth a look.

Thinking about it a little more: it sounds like the HDFury2 is not providing a signal when the set powers up. Maybe changing your power up sequence or adding a delay prior to turning on the Mits.

That's all I got but the thread still lives!

Frank